A NEW VOYAGE TO ITALY

Printed for R. Bentley, M. Wootton, T. Goodwin, and S. Manship.

A New Voyage TO ITALY: With a Description of the Chief Towns, Churches, Tombs, Libraries, Palaces, Statues, and Antiquities of that Country.

Together with Useful INSTRUCTIONS for those who shall Travel thither.

By MAXIMILIAN MISSON, Gent.

Done into English, and adorn'd with FIGURES.

In Two Volumes.

Vol. I.

LONDON, Printed for R. Bently, at the Post-House in Russel-street, Covent-Garden; M. Gillyflower, at the Spread-Eagle in Westminster-Hall; T. Goodwin, at the Queen's-Head, and M. Wotton, at the Three Daggers in Fleet-street; and S. Manship, at the Ship in Cornhill, 1695.

To the Honourable Charles Butler, Cornet of the First Troop of GUARDS.

SIR,

THE only Considerati­on that engag'd me to Publish this Work, was my Desire to please You, and to secure that Interest in Your Goodness, with which You are pleas'd to Honour me. I con­fess my Resolution was a little shock'd, when I reflected on the Dangers and Discourage­ments to which an Author ex­poses himself, by appearing in so Nice and Knowing an Age: But my Reluctancy was quick­ly [Page] overcome by the sense I had of my Obligation to give You this Mark of my Acknow­ledgment and Respect.

When His Grace the DUKE of ORMOND, Your Grandfa­ther, did me the Honour to commit the Care of Your E­ducation to me, I labour'd with all the Application I was capable of, to discharge that great Trust with suitable Di­ligence and Fidelity: And, to speak only of Your Travels, I may say without Vanity, that I was very careful to make You receive all that Pleasure and Advantage You might desire or expect from 'em. My present Attempt is but a Continuation of my for­mer Care: My chief Design in the Publication of these [Page] Letters being to refresh and preserve the Idea's of what You then observ'd, and to make that Satisfaction lasting, which, perhaps, Time would have insensibly destroy'd.

I hope, SIR, You will re­ceive favourably this Effect of my Zeal and Affection to Your Service. If You were as severe a Critick, as You are an exact Judge, I might just­ly despair of pleasing You: But all my Fears vanish when I reflect on that peculiar Sweet­ness of Temper, and that Na­tural Inclination You have to consider Things on the most Advantageous side. This Thought inspires me with so much Confidence, that no­thing less than Your Modesty, could over-awe me, and re­strain [Page] the Impetuosity of my Desires. I would give You all the Praises You de­serve, and think my self ob­lig'd to take this Occasion to proclaim the Generosity, Pro­bity, Courage, Moderation, and all the other Vertues which I have so often admir'd in You, if I were not sensible that I could not do You Justice without offending You.

And therefore all that I shall say on so alluring a Sub­ject is, That those admirable Perfections are a part of Your Heritage, as being inseparably united to the Illustrious Blood that fills Your Veins. True Nobility, and Greatness of Mind have been always entail'd on Your Family. The Repu­tation of His Grace the late [Page] DUKE of ORMOND is spread over all Europe, in the most Glorious manner imagi­nable. And the EARL of OSSORY, Your Father, ap­ply'd himself with equal Care and Success to the Imitation of so Noble a Pattern: That Great Captain was at once the Terror of His Prince's Enemies, the Joy and Love of the People, the Delight of the Court, and Admiration of Strangers. The Honour which I had in Your Company, to approach several Sovereign Princes, gave me the Oppor­tunity to learn from their own Mouths, how highly they e­steem'd him, and with how sensible an Affliction they re­ceiv'd the News of the un­timely Period of so bright a Life. His Grace the DUKE [Page] of ORMOND Your Brother, is, with You, SIR, the Wor­thy Successor of those Hero's. You are both unwearied Pur­suers of Glory, and You lose no Opportunity to signalize Your Valour and Conduct. I offer up the most ardent Pray­ers for Your Common Prospe­rity; and I entreat You to believe that I shall always re­main with an unalterable Pas­sion, and profound Respect,

SIR,
Your most Humble, and Obedient Servant, Maximilian Misson.

THE AUTHOR's PREFACE.

WHEN I undertook the Voyage describ'd in the following Letters, I resolv'd to keep an exact Journal of the most remarkable Things that should fall under my Observation; and some of my Friends having engag'd me to communicate my Remarks to 'em, from time to time, my intended Jour­nal was insensibly chang'd to Let­ters.

I will not trouble the Reader with an Account of the Reasons that oblige me to suffer this little Work to appear in Publick: But, perhaps, it will not be improper to inform him, [Page] why I thought fit to send it abroad in its Native Dress. The Style of the Letters is Concise, Free, and Familiar, and in all respects most suitable to my Design. When an Author under­takes to give a particular Description of the Subject on which he writes, he is oblig'd to acquaint his Reader with all its Circumstances, and to omit no­thing that relates to it. But there is a very wide difference between an ex­act Description of a Country, and a brief Account of it in a Letter.

So that if it be Objected, that I have forgot to mention several things that deserv'd to be taken notice of, I shall content my self with making this short Reply, that, He who Pro­mises nothing, cannot be justly accus'd of Forgetting any thing. These are familiar Letters, in which I do not in the least oblige my self to in­sert all that might be said of the Pla­ces mention'd in 'em: Only I relate [Page] what I have seen, or heard, from Persons of unquestion'd Credit; and what, in my Opinion, deserves to be communicated to the Publick.

If it be further pretended, that I treat of some things which were gene­rally known before; I answer, That if all those who repeat the Observati­ons of others must be condemn'd with­out Mercy, by the same Sentence most Books that are extant, must be doom'd to the Fire: For the new Discoveries of a whole Age would scarce fill a small Volume. Every Man has a dif­ferent way of expressing his Thoughts, and of representing the Subjects of which he treats; which makes 'em in a manner different from themselves, when describ'd by another, and gives a right to each particular Person to make new Reflections on 'em. But not to insist on that Plea; The Rea­der of these Letters will find an Ac­count of those Things that happen'd [Page] in my Time, and of some late Alte­rations, which I cannot be suppos'd to have borrow'd from those who wrote before me: And, in the general, I see no reason why the Book, which I now offer to the Publick, may not just­ly claim the Title of a New Work, and I'm confident, it will be acknow­ledged as such, by all unprejudic'd Persons, who shall consider either that I have added several remarkable Cir­cumstances, or establish'd Idea's that I found to be juster, and more exact than those I had receiv'd from the Re­lations of others; or, to add no other Considerations, that I have given a new Turn of Expression to such things as were already describ'd. And tho' I could not wholly omit some Pas­sages that had been formerly taken no­tice of by other Authors, without spoil­ing the Connexion of the Parts of my Work, and depriving the future Traveller of part of the Advantage [Page] which I hope he may receive from my Labours; yet, upon a careful Exami­nation, it will be found that many of my Observations are in all respects New and Uncommon.

I could not leave the Places thro' which I past on the Road, without examining and enquiring into the most remarkable Things that were to be found in 'em, and without giving some account of 'em in my Letters. But since the main Design of our Voyage was to see Italy; and since I have chiefly insisted on the Description of that Countrey, I thought fit to give that Title to the whole Work, which a­grees properly to the principal part of it.

Of those who travel into Italy, some make it their only business to enquire after its Antiquities; and o­thers apply themselves wholly to the study of Painting and Architecture: There are some who mind nothing but [Page] Libraries, and Cabinets of Curiosities; and others spend their time in visiting Churches and Relicks. But my Cu­riosity was more Universal, and would not suffer me to confine my Enquiries to one Subject; which gives my Let­ters the advantage of Variety, and at least in this respect, I hope they will not seem unpleasant to the generality of Readers.

When I found my self under an almost indispensable necessity to consent to the Publication of this Work, I thought my self oblig'd to make it useful to those who shall afterwards undertake the same Voyage: And therefore I have inserted several Pas­sages in those Letters, which I did not think fit to mention, when they were only directed to two or three Friends: And, in pursuance of the same Design, I have subjoin'd an Appendix at the end of the Book, containing Ad­vice or Instructions to a Traveller.

[Page]To satisfie the importunate desires of those with whom I entertain'd a Correspondence during my Travels, I was forc'd to give 'em an account of every thing I observ'd, without omit­ting even the smallest and least consi­derable Remarks. But since the Cu­riosity of most Readers extends not so far, I was soon persuaded to obey those who advis'd me to cut off seve­ral Passages in my Letters, which perhaps would have been esteem'd Imper­tinent or Trifling. For those who have the Happiness to be Masters of an Uni­versal Wit, and of an equally solid and nice Judgment, are capable of making Advantage of every thing, and are usually sooner pleas'd than those who are less beholding to Nature for the liberal Distribution of her Fa­vours. If it be still urg'd, that I have left several Passages which might have been cut off with the rest, I must beg leave to tell those pretended [Page] Criticks, that They are very much mi­staken if they imagine that nothing ought to be admitted into Works of this Nature, but what is great and important. These are neither Ser­mons, nor Negotiations of Ambassa­dors; and that which might be justly call'd a Trifle in a Discourse upon a lofty Subject, deserves another Title in such a Relation as this, and espe­cially in a Letter. Besides, there are some mean and seemingly trifling Things, which, for all their meanness, are yet very pleasant and diverting. The Publick has receiv'd some Rela­tions very favourably, which take no­tice of the smallest Circumstances, not forgetting even the Signs of Taverns; neither indeed is it just to oblige a Traveller to relate nothing but Pro­digies. 'Tis true, he ought not to fill his Journal with insipid Observations; but there is hardly any thing on which an exact and ingenious Per­son [Page] is not capable of making Re­flexions.

I have observ'd, that those who speak of Italy are usually full of Prejudices, which are extremely to the Advantage of that Country. Most Young Travellers being persuaded that they shall find there an infinite Num­ber of surprizing Rarities, go thither with a Resolution to admire every thing they see. And all the Relati­ons we have of it, seem to have been design'd for Panegyricks. The Fame of that part of the World has been rais'd so high, and so strongly esta­blish'd, that 'tis esteem'd an unpar­donable Crime to lessen its Reputation. The Grandeur, for Example, and the almost infinite Magnificence of the celebrated City of Rome, with the ancient Charms of Bayae and Capua, inspire the generality of Mankind with a Veneration for a few pieces of Marble, which are the only Re­mainders [Page] of their Ruines; tho' 'tis certain that those Places, if we con­sider 'em in their present Condition, are not at all preferrable to a vast Number of others, which are not so much as taken notice of in the World. But there is also another Reason, which doubtless contributes very much to confirm Travellers in their Preju­dices; and that is, the usual manner in which the Italians speak of their Country. 'Tis certain, that the Peo­ple of that Nation have so much Fire in their Imagination, and their Phrases are naturally so strong and significative, that they are oftentimes apt to speak of Things with too much Force. 'Tis true, they have many soft and pleasant, not to say Apish and Childish Expressi­ons; but when they change their Style, they are apt to run to the other ex­treamity, and, on a sudden, lose themselves in wild and unnatural Hy­perboles. This Humour of the Ita­lians [Page] by degrees infects some of those Strangers who reside among 'em, and in conjunction with their former Pre­judices, prompts 'em to make long and lofty Discourses, on the most in­considerable Subjects. The Observati­on of those Miscarriages in others, made me very careful to avoid falling into the same Errors: I examin'd things coolly, and suffer'd those perpetual Admirers to evaporate in sublime Fi­gures, and Exclamations of Wonder, without regarding their pompous and superlative Expressions. But tho' I had not the Complaisance to admire every thing which they extoll'd, I hope I shall not have the Misfor­tune to be accus'd of being possess'd with a Prejudice, opposite to that which I blame in others; for the equitable Reader will easily perceive, that I take Pleasure to do justice to those things which I think de­serve Praise.

[Page]I wrote these Letters without consulting the Authors who have treated of the same Subject before me: For besides that the hurry of Tra­velling made such a Design impra­cticable, I could not have receiv'd much benefit by it, since, as I in­timated before, I intended only to relate what I saw, or learn'd, with­out engaging in a particular and exact Description of the Country. I thought fit to make this ingenu­ous Declaration, That if any Pas­sages in this Work be found to be inconsistent with the Relations of others, I may not be accus'd of ta­king Pleasure to contradict 'em; for I only give a sincere and na­tural Account of my own Obser­vations, or of what I heard from Persons of unsuspected Credit, without the least Design to offend any Man whatsoever.

[Page]I hope every candid Reader will make a Distinction between those things which I affirm positively, and those which are usher'd in with a 'Tis said; tho' even in these Cases I have related nothing but what is grounded on the general Opinion, and was never contradicted by any with whom I have had occasion to converse: For, after all, I would not be oblig'd to warrant the Truth of these common Reports, which are of­tentimes found to be common Lyes.

To avoid the Confusion occasion'd by the various length of Leagues and Miles in Germany; I usually express the distance of Places by the Number of Hours that are com­monly spent in travelling between 'em; and if at any time I make use of the Word League, I understand an Hour's Journey. The Italian Miles are generally known, and need no explication; only the Reader may take [Page] notice, That Two Miles in Pied­mont make almost Three, after the ordinary way of reckoning; and that the Miles of Lombardy are the shortest of all. I shall only add, That when I measure any Distance by a certain number of Paces, I mean the Steps I usually make in Walking,

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A NEW VOYAGE TO ITALY. A. M. D. W.

LETTER I.

SIR,

HOLLAND is a Country so near and so well known to yours, that I should, perhaps, have said nothing of it, had not your ex­press Commands obliged me to it; in com­pliance therefore with your desires, I will endeavour to give you an Idea of this rare Country, with a particular Account of the Cities I saw there. As to the rest, Holland hath so many particulars worth your Ob­servation and View, that I think it im­possible you should decline making a Voyage thither: The Passage over is but short, and [Page 2] you will have a thousand opportunities to render it convenient. But being persuaded, that you will not fail, one day, to satisfie so reasonable a Curiosity, I shall not enter­tain you so largely as I might, with an ac­count of those charming Provinces, wherein I have formerly, for a long time, sojourned.

We observed, from our Vessel, as we ap­proach'd these Coasts, that the nearer we came, we perceived the tops of the Trees, and the summits of the Steeples, as if they issued out of a Land sunk under Water. In short, Holland is universally flat and low, like one continued Meadow. 'Tis cut in­to Canals, and large Ditches, to receive and drain the Waters, which otherwise would soak the Lands like drunken Tosts; there are but few Places that can be Cultivated. A Country like this is not naturally Habi­table; yet, Industry, constant Labour, and the Love of Profit, have brought it into such a State, that there is not in the World, one so Rich, and so well Peopled, propor­tionably to its extentPufendorf. Others pretend that the Seven Provinces to­gether do not contain more than Two Mil­lions of Inha­bitants. It is difficult for a private Person to learn the certainty of those kind of things. See Vossius.: Some do not stick to averr, that this little Province alone, in­cludes more than Two Millions and Five Hundred Thousand Souls.

The Cities are as it wereThe Ʋnited Provinces have one City of the first Rank, viz. Am­sterdam. Above twenty of the second Rank, which may compare with the great Cities of France, after Paris. More than Thirty of the third, which equal Parma and Modena. Above two hundred great Towns, and more than eight hundred Villages. G. L. link'd toge­ther, and we may say that they are all of a [Page 3] sparkling Beauty. The more we consider them, the more agreeable we find them.There is no less curiosity and neatness in their Ships than in their Houses. This Cleanliness ex­tends through­out: You may find it in the Stables, where the Cows Tales are tied up with a little Cord to the Roof, least they should defile themselves. They wash all, and scowre all the Walls, Moveables, and Ʋtensils of Houshold-stuff. Great care is taken to keep their Houses neat and fine, both within and without, they Wash them, and Paint the very Bricks over, from time to time; so that they al­ways look new. The Doors and the Cross-bars are commonly revested with hewn Stone or Marble; the inside of the Shops, and lower Rooms, even with the common Tradesmen, are also commonly lined with square Tiles. The Glass-Win­dows all shine like Chrystal; every Window hath its Shutters, which are commonly painted red or green, and make altogether a mixture most pleasant to the sight.

The Streets are so clean, that the Wo­men walk abroad in Slippers all the Year. The Canals every where are adorned with two rows of Trees, which make a delight­ful Shade, and a delicate Walk on each side the Streets. You have here almost a gene­ral Idea not only of the Cities, but also of the Towns and Villages, for the same Order and Neatness is to be seen throughout.

The most usual way of Travelling, is by the Canals, and nothing is so convenient. The Boats are drawn by Horses, and they go off at set hours. You are therein con­veniently seated, against Storms of Rain or Wind: So that you change the Country, without knowing almost that you are out of the House. When the Canals are Frozen, the Skates and the Sledges — are in­stead of the Boats; and this new way of [Page 4] Travelling is a second Pleasure. Those who slide skilfully on Skates will out-run the Post-Horses, some will undertake to go a League in ten Minutes. Thus you see how commodious their Canals are, but this is not all the convenience they receive, by the drain of their Waters; they are also useful for Traffick, and transport of Goods as well as Men. The Earth which they take out, raises the Banks, and makes the ways more fit for Foot-Men; they serve both for Enclosure and Ornament. In some Places they have plenty of Fish.

Abundance of things are naturally want­ing in Holland: But Foreign Countries plentifully supply them with Corn, as well as Wines and all other Necessaries for Life. All the World knows how far their Trade extends: And it may well be said, that as it in part gave the original Strength to the State, so it is still its principal or only support. Every Man in Holland is a kind of Amphi­bious Creature, equally accustomed both to Sea and Land. I remember I have read it in a good Author: That this sole Province hath moreThe number of Vessels in the common Opinion is esteemed so great, that it is thought to equal all the rest of Europe together. Card. Bentivoglio. Pufendorf saith the same, and others bave writ that the Ʋnited Provinces have as many Ships as Houses. I cannot think any Person hath exactly Calculated them, every one speaks as he imagines, or hath heard, so that little heed is to be given to Dis­courses of this nature. Shipping than all the rest of Europe.

It is true, that if on one side the Sea is the cause of all the Riches of Holland, it [Page 5] must also be confessed, that it hath some­times caused terrible Damages. It is stopped with Banks of Earth, which we call Dams, and all care imaginable is taken to maintain them. They have Mills to empty the Wa­ter, and use all imaginable Industry to pre­vent Mischief, or to remedy it when it hath happened. Yet some places of these Banks are often broken, and the rolling of the Waves makes most furious Ravages. So that as to theOn the 17th of April, 1420. one hundred thousand People were drowned at Dort, or thereabouts. There were fif­teen Parishes drowned. Seb. Munster. The Sea carri­ed away 121 Houses of the Villages of Scheveling, and 1574. (S. Parival) at this day the Church is near the Sea, whereas formerly it was in the midst of the Village. Sea, they may well use the Device of a Torch Reversed. That which feeds me kills me. This, Sir, is the fatal Mis­chief of Holland, a strange inconveniency, of which all that can be said is, That they labour to help it as much as they can; but can never restore the drowned Cities, nor the lives of many Millions of Men who have, from time to time, perished by these Deluges.

It is not without some regret that I disturb your former and more pleasing Idea's; but I fansie that to apprehend things well, we must know both what's for, and what's against them. Nor is this the only defect. For the Air is no where very good. Sometimes in the fair­est Weather it suddenly becomes Cold, and this inequality admits of no great difference between the Summer and Winter [Page 6] Cloaths.The Gabel of Salt is the least considera­ble; Salt costs but two Pence or three Pence the Pound, of sixteen Ounces. The greatest Imports are on Wine, Beer, and Corn. The Impositions are great, which partly cause the dearness of Victuals: But the People of this Country who are born under the Yoak, and whom their great Trade hath made live at ease, scarce think of it. I confess I should not long admire those continued Meadows of which Holland is composed: They seem very fine for a few hours, but one grows weary of their perpe­tual uniformity. And I am perswaded the variety of your Province of Kent, must be far more grateful.

We were at the same time surpris'd and charm'd at the first thing which we observ'd at our arrival at Rotterdam. This City having this singular Qualification, that ma­ny of its Canals are broad and deep enough to receive the greatest Vessels, nothing can compare with the effect produced by the extra­ordinary mixture of Chimnies, tops of Trees, and Streamers of Vessels. One is astonished at the Port to behold so rare a confusion, as is that of the tops of the Houses and Trees, and Penons of the Masts, one cannot tell whether it be a Fleet, a City, or a Forest, at least one sees a thing seldom heard of, a Convention of those three things, the Sea, the City, and the Campagne.

ROTTER­DAM. Rotterdam is not accounted as one of the Principal Cities of the Province, because it hath not been always in such a flourishing condition as we see it at this day; but without doubt it ought to be the second of the first Rank, whereas now it is but the first of the second. Its Port is most com­modious [Page 7] and fair, and is always fill'd and encompass'd with Shipping, and its Trade increases daily. It is very large, well Peo­pled, rich and pleasant, and hath the neat­ness I have represented; the situation is flat, as you are to suppose of the rest of the Cities.

The Magazines for the equipping of Ships. The Town-house, aad that of the Bank, are all most stately Structures. When you come into the Glass-house, you see them at work on little enamell'd Bowls, and I know not how many Children's Baubles, with which they drive a great Trade a­mongst the Savages. Also near this you have the curious Works in Paper of the Sieur Van Uliet, as Ships, Palaces, and whole Landskips in Basso relievo, all as they say done and made out with the point of a Pen-knife.

There are at present two French Churches at Rotterdam; which the Magistrates take care particularly to see furnished with Mi­nisters of exemplary Merit. It is certain, that this City is become famous for its Learned Men, as well as by its Trade and Beauty. It is this which bestowed on us, the Novels of the Republick of Learning, a work so accepted and esteemed: I might even say, a Work which is ready to be la­mented, since the Indisposition of the Au­thor gives us reason to fear; he will be no more able to apply himself to so painful an undertaking; I am informed that Mr. Bas­nage de Beauval intends the continuation. [Page 8] He is indowed with a great deal of Learn­ing, an extraordinary Wit, and all the sharpness which can be thought necessary for the well-ordering such a Work.

Erasmus was born in Rotter­dam, Octob. 27. 1467. he died at Basil, June 12. 1536. They e­rected a Statue of Wood, An. 1540. one of Stone, Anno 1557. and at last that of Brass, which is seen this day, Anno 1622.The brazen Statue of Erasmus is in the Place called the great Bridge. This Statue is on a Pedestal of Marble, encompassed with Rails of Iron. Erasmus is in a Doctors Habit, with a Book in his Hand. Hard by you may see the House in which he was born, it is a very little one, having this Distich wrote on the door.

Aedibus his Ortus, Mundum decoravit Erasmus Artibus ingenuis, Relligione, Fide.

Being for some Reasons induced to visit a Village called Leckerkeck, three Leagues distant from hence, upon the River Leck, I will impart to you three or four curious things which I observed there.

The Lord of the Place told us, That the Salmon Fishing, the fifth part whereof only belongs to him, yielded him formerly twenty thousand Francs per annum, and oft­times more. And that the Salmon having left it by degrees, that Revenue is so strange­ly diminish'd, that it scarcely defrays the Charge of the Fishery in many Years, so that he had given it over, only lying under a necessity to maintain the Right. For­merly also the Salmon spawned before Dor­dretcht in such multitudes that the Maid-Servants of that City, made their Bargains not to be compelled to eat it above twice [Page 9] in the Week, but at present they are rid of that trouble.

We went to see a Country Woman there, who last Year was brought to Bed of Six Sons, there were four of them Baptized, the Eldest of which lived four Months.

A Maid of the same Village carried a Musquet Seven Years, without being dis­covered what she was. She went always by the name de la Bonto, which Name she was Mustered by, and at present she is a Maid-Servant in the House of the Lord of that Place.

Some Years since died in this place, Gueret Bastiense, a Fisherman, who was eight Foot high, and weighed 500 Weight, though he was very lean. We were in his House, the Doors whereof are very high, where they showed us many of his Cloaths and Things.

The Post hour obliges me here to finish this Letter; be perswaded, Sir, that I will omit nothing which I believe proper for your satisfaction. And if Time shall not permit me to particularize many things, assure your self my accounts shall be with­out Partiality, after I have got an exact In­formation. I am,

SIR,
Yours, &c.

LETTER II.

SIR,

DELFE.WE came from Rotterdam to Delfe in less than two hours, by the Rotter­dam Boat. Delfe holds the third Rank in the Assembly of the States of Holland. I will give you no other Description than what I have told you of the Cities in gene­ral, the Idea whereof you must always call to mind. One of the principal Things which they show to Strangers, is the Tomb of Prince William, who wasBy Balthasar Gerard, or Se­rach of the Franc County, Anno 1584. the Prince 52 Years old. Assassinated in this CityYou may also see the Palace of the State-holder, the Grand Place, and the great Hospital with the Garden.. The Arsenal and the Town­house are the principal things whicy they show to Strangers. It is but a good League from Delfe to the Hague, following the course of the Canal. You pass not far from Riswick and the Voorburg, which are very pleasant Villages, all there is full of Houses of Pleasure, Walks, and delightful Gardens.

HAGUE.Although the Hague hath the Privileges of a City, yet is it put in the Rank of the Boroughs, because it is Walled: And it sends no Deputies to the States General. Yet we may say, that its Grandeur and [Page 11] Beauty deserve as much Honour as the best Cities.

At present King of Engl.The Prince of Orange resides there, and his Court is very fine. The States General are thereYou may see the place of this Assembly, and the other Hall where the States of Hol­land meet. Assembled. The Ambassadors and other Ministers of Foreign Princes have there their Residence. The People are more civil and sociable than in other places. Travellers sojourn here. The Coaches are numerous. The Houses and Walks are very fine. The Air is perfectly good. In a word, 'tis most certain the Hague is an Inchanting place. The Wood is one of its chief Ornaments: For as I told you the other day, it tires one to see nothing but near Objects: To walk in a Wood in Hol­land affords double refreshment. For you have also the Walk by the Sea side to the Village of Scheveling, Between the Hague and Scheveling is a House of Plea­sure, belonging to the Earl of Portland. whither you go in a good half hour, by a strait Pathway cut cross the Downs. There is a good Fishery at Scheveling. There you may see a Cha­riot with Wheels and Sails, which the Wind drives on the Sand of the Sea-shore, which is both hard and even.

The Sieur Resner, a Gentleman of Zealand, who dwells at the Hague, hath a Cabinet, where, amongst other things, you may see a great number of very curious Shells.

The situation of the Hague highly deserves distinction from all the rest of Holland, be­cause of the variety of its Landscape: For [Page 12] it hath the Wood on the North, the Mea­dow on the South, some Arable Lands East­ward, and the Sea to the West.

Its Trade is inconsiderable, in respect of the Cities which have Havens, or great Manufactures yet good store of bu­siness is there transacted: Besides, there are many rich and noble Families, which live on their Revenues or Employs in the Army or Court.

This great concourse of Persons of Qua­lity, is the cause that it is always furnished with Masters, requisite for the Instruction of young Gentlemen in all sorts of Exer­cises. The Academy beyond all is of great Reputation. There is one of the finest ri­ding Houses I ever beheld, and the Rider is a very skilful and honest Man.

The Prince of Orange is lodgedThe Chappel of this Palace now is made use of for the French Church. in the Palace of the ancient Earls of Holland. To speak truth, this Palace hath nothing in it extraordinary: That which is called the Old Court, where the Princes of Orange for­merly dwelt, is the most regular building.In the Neigh­bourhood of the Hague is the Honflerdyke, the House of the Wood, and the Garden of Mr. De St. An­neland. The Houses of Pleasure are exquisitely beautiful.

We had the Curiosity to go on purpose to the Village of Losdun, to see there two Dishes of Brass, in which were Baptized the three hundred sixty five Children of the [Page 13] Countess of Heneberg, Daughter to Florent, This History is to be found in Erasmus, Vives, Guicciardin, Christoval, Guy Dominick Peter, Author of the An­nals of Flanders: And in many others, who speak of this Lying-in, as of a thing credible and well Attested, and as they believe true. The Annals relate, that the 365 Children, were Baptized by Don William, the Bishop Suffragan of Treves, and that both they and their Mother died on the same day, which was Good-Friday, in the Year 1276. Surius Garon, and divers Chronologers, relate an History of a Lady of Provence, called Irmentrude, and Wife of Isembard, Earl of Altorfe, who being brought to Bed of twelve Sons, would have caused eleven to be Drowned in the River. They add, That Isembard, meeting the Woman which carried them, asked her what she had in her Pannier, the Woman answered, they were some little Whelps, which she went to drown; Isembard was resolved to see them, and having discovered the matter, he took the Children and put them to Nurses, and when they were grown up presented them all alive to his Wife; in memory of which, saith the History, that Family assumed the name of Wolf, which it still retains. John Pic de Mirandole II. hath written that a Woman of his Country, named Dorothy, brought twenty Children into the World at two Births, nine at one, and eleven at the other. Albert the Great, speaks of a German Woman, who was brought to Bed of one hundred and fifty Children. It would be no hard matter to produce a number of the like Examples. the Fourth Earl of Holland.

You have heard what hath been said of this Lady; that having reproached a Beg­gar-Woman for having too many Children, the poor Creature in answer, wished her as many as there were days in the Year; which that Year accordingly happened, for the Countess was brought to Bed of three hun­dred sixty five Children, who were all Christned, and the same day buried in the Church of Losdun. This History is to be seen a little more at large, in a great Picture, on the sides whereof the two Basins are fixed. We must not forget, that the Boys were named John, and the Girls Elizabeth. [Page 14] Mark Cremer relates of a Polonian Lady, the Wife of Count Virboslaus, who in sequel of such an Imprecation, was brought to Bed of thirty six Children.

I am loath so soon to part with the Hague, which, without contradiction, is one of the most pleasant Places in the World, but I must say something of Leyden and Haerlem, before I finish my Letter. But think not, that when you leave the Hague, and come to Leyden, you fall into a desart Country: Every thing hath its value, and that of Leyden is not small; it is true all the Cities of Holland are fair to amazement: And we cannot praise one enough, without saying so much, as must leave us no expressions for the other. Nevertheless, I should be glad to be able to give you some new Idea of the Beauties of Leyden.

LEYDEN.This City hath not so great a number of Coaches as are seen at the Hague, nor so much noisie business as Rotterdam. But per­haps its quiet is far more charming. It is a great City, but repose Rules there, and in it you enjoy all the sweets of a Country Life. Its little disturbance allows it an extraordi­nary Neatness: Nothing comes near that of its Houses, and we may compare the Streets to so many Alleys of a well-adorned Garden. Yet we must freely confess, that the Inhabitants of Leyden would willingly consent that their Pavement should be less clean, and that they endured a little more trouble, on condition they could be Masters of a good Haven: I have heard Projects [Page 15] have been contrived about it. But it's said, that their Land lies so low that they dare not give the Sea a Passage: So that the Woollen-Manufacture makes the greatest Trade of this City.

You know Leyden is verySome believe that the Town is a work of the Romons: Others attri­bute it to the Saxons: but Jo. Scaliger pretends it was made by the Earls not above four or five hundred Years ago. ancient, and there are still found some Marks of her An­tiquity. But that which renders it most Famous, is herThe number of Scholars is fifteen hundred or thereabouts. The Ʋniversity hath divers Privileges. University. They com­monly lead the Strangers to the Physick-School; and in the Anatomy-Hall you may see a great number of Skeletons of Men and Beasts: Many natural Rareties, and other Curiosities; as of Plants, Fruits, Ani­mals, Arms, strange Habits, Pictures, Mum­mies, curious Works, Urns, Images, &c. I fear you would incline to be incredulous of the Story of a Prussian Peasant which is there Painted: He had swallowed a very large Knife: So that they were forced to cut open his Stomach to get it out, after which, as is said, he lived eight Years.

In the midst of the Hall is an unfortu­nate Thief, whom they derided to extre­mity, after they had Hanged him. They fixed his Skeleton to a Gibbet, upon that of an Oxe, because he had been a Cow­stealer; they made another Shoes of his own Skin, and a Shirt to another of his own Bowels.

The Physick-Garden is not far from hence. A great number of Rareties are still to be seen in the Gallery of this Garden, and in the Cabinet called the Indian-Cabinet, to which this Gallery leads. I remember I [Page 16] observed amongst other things, an Ape, and a Cat, which were produced withThere are many flying Cats in the Province of Malabar. Tassoni. Wings: The hand of a Mermaid: A Stare with long Ears, a Vegetable Priapus, which is a most curious Plant: A Monster which issued out of a Hens Egg. A Piece of Mo­ney of Card or Paper, made at Leyden, when it was Besieged by the Spaniards in 1574. And a Serpent brought from Suri­nam, on whose Skin are several natural Figures, which much resemble some Ara­bick Characters. I make you this last Ob­servation, because your Tutor very much admires this little wonder of Nature. But indeed, to speak freely, I find nothing sin­gular in this, no more than in the Greek Letters which form, as some thought the turnings and windings of a Maze. There is so universal a diversity in all things in the World, that it is easie to find the like of the first Figure which presents it self, if we would give our selves the trouble of a search.

The greatest part of Animals, Insects, and other things, are hanged up in Vials fill'd with Spirits of Wine, whereby they are preserved from Corruption.

Going out hence, we were to see the great Church, which is a vast Pile; and afterwards we took Boat for Haerlem. But before we proceed on our Voyage, I must needs give you some account of the unfor­tunate destiny of the Rhine, of which there are some small remains at Leyden. Other Rivers increase their course and their glory, at the rate they proceed; but this so great [Page 17] and famous River, becomes nothing, and is utterly lost in the Harbour. After it hath been constrained to divide it self at Meeting with the Skenk Fort, where one half of its Waters, take the name of Wa­hal: the Yssel robs itIt is to be observed, that the branch of the Rhine, which takes to the right a lit­tle above Arn­heim, and carries the name of the Yssel, is not properly the Yssel. It is a Channel which Drusus digg'd, and brought near to a place now called Doesbourg, to make a com­munication at this place be­tween the Wa­ters of the Rhine and the Yssel. of the other half a little above Arnheim. Yet it goes on to that City, though much weakned, and at seven or eight Leagues from thence is again ob­lig'd to separate at the little City of Dor­stadt: Its principal Branch there takes a new Name, and is called the Leck, and the poor little stripp'd Rivulet, which escaped, and turns to the Right, retains still its name of Rhine, and passeth on to Utrecht, where it hath a fourth Division: The Vecht breaks off at that place, and takes its course to the North: And the little thred of Water which is yet called the Rhine, passeth qui­etly to Worden. It comes to bid its last farewel to Leyden, and faintly finisheth its course, by losing the small remainders of its Waters, in two or three Canals, with­out having the Honour to enter into the Sea. The Scamander, the Simois, and some other renowned Rivers, which are worthy to be compared to the Rhine, have yet found the same reverse of Fortune: The whole surface of the Earth is subject to continual Alterations. These Catastrophes put me in mind of what Ovid hath said,

Vidi ego quod fuerat quondam solidissima tellus
Esse fretum, vidi factas ex aequore terras, &c.

[Page 18]But we are not ignorant of the cause of the Rhine's fate; it was an Earthquake which shook the Downs, andIn the Year 860. or as John Ger­brardus at Leyden, in the Year 840. This Author represents the then Storm as most terrible and dreadful. filled the Mouth of this River, and forc'd it to return to seek a new Passage. The Leck was then scarce worth notice, but the Waters of the Rhine, which were driven back and over­flowed the Country, swelled, inlarged, and deepned the Leck's Canal; and the entrance to Sea hath ever since been shut against the Rhine's ancient course: This poor River, which had run the greatest hazards in the Lake of Constance, and which had thrown it self down the Precipice, near to Schaff­hausen, at last loses both its Reputation and Waters, at the Village of Catwick.

There are still found some Pieces of the Card or Paper-Money, which were Coined during the famous Siege carried on by the Spaniards in 1574. on one side was Inscribed, Haec libertatis ergo, and on the other Pugno pro Patria.

They likewise told me, that they have still preserv'd the Board of the famous Tay­lorJohn Bu­cold., called John of Leyden, (because born there) head of the Anabaptists, King of Munster, &c. You know the Person.

It is about five Leagues from Leyden to Harlem, but the Villages and pleasant Houses which you see on the right and left, all a­long the Canal, make the way seem very short. Harlem is large and very agreeable: It is in one respect better than Leyden. Its Waters are quickn'd by the little River Sparen, which joyns it self to its Canals, and [Page 19] which gives to some their course, and to others some Circulation. The Linen and Tape which are made at Harlem, have for a long time been its chief Trade: But I hear that at present they have a great Ma­nufacture of Silk Stuffs.It was dedi­cated to S. Ba­ron. It is the greatest of all the Province. The Great Church and the Town-house are the stateliest Build­ings: And its Wood of tall Trees, with its long and strait Walks, is one of its principal Ornaments. It boasts to have given Birth to Laurence Coster, who, if you will believe them, was theWith Tho­mas Pieterson, John Gutten­burg, and his two Brothers. Inventer of Printing. But you know, Sir, that Guttenburg of Strasburgh disputes that Invention with this Coster: And that the pretended Conjurer, John Faustus of Mentz, will give place to neither; and besides this Invention is attributed to Conrade and Arnold, There are to be seen in the Town house di­vers Rareties, amongst which they keep with particular care in a Casket of Silver, and wrapped in Silk, the first Book (according to those of Harlem) that ever was Printed: Its Title is Speculum humanae Sal­vationis: It hath many Figures. The keeping of this Book, is entrusted to several Magistrates, who have every one a different Key of the place where it is, which renders it not easie to be seen. The Statue of Laurence Coster is likewise to be seen in this place. The Inscription which you have here was put in Letters of Gold on the door of his House, with the following Verses: MEMORIAE SACRUM. Typographia Ars Artium omnium Conservatrix hic primum inventa circa annum 1440. Vana quid Archetypos & prela Moguntia jactas? Harlemi Archetypos prelaque nata scias. Extulit hic, monstrante Deo, Laurentius artem. Dissimulare virum, dissimulare Deum est. Brothers and Burgesses of the same City of Mentz. 'Tis strange that Hi­story is so blinded with Fables, that we cannot extricate the Truth in so novel a matter. If what Trigaultius and other Tra­vellers have said be true, that Printing is [Page 20] of so ancient usage in China it is very pro­bable,Tavernier as­sures us, that the Persians have not yet the use of Printing. that those who first brought it into Europe, were but Imitators of others. Meyer reports, that in the Year 1403. a Mermaid was brought to Harlem, who, by a furious Tempest, was thrown on the Neighbouring Shore: That they accustomed her to Eat several Meats, but her principal Food was Bread and Milk: That they taught her to Spin; and that she lived many Years. Others write, that this Mermaid was sent from Embden to Harlem. J. G. of Leyden adds, that she would often pull off her Cloaths to return to the Water, and that she had an odd kind of Speech. ((They did not understand her Speech, nor she our Language.) Locuti­onem ejus non intelligebant, sed nec ipsa nostrum intellexit idioma). And that she was buried in a Church-yard, because she had Learned to salute the Cross. He also said, that he knew Persons that had seen her.

We would willingly have again taken Boat to come from Harlem hither, but it being a little too late when we came from thence, and we willing to get hither as soon as we could, we thought it better to make use of a Coach. The Carriage was a little uneasie, because the Coach was not hung, but to make amends, it went a great deal swifter than the Boat. I am,

SIR,
Yours, &c.

LETTER III.

SIR,

I Had some regret to write my last Letter to you from Amsterdam, AMSTER­DAM. without giving any account of that famous City, but that I fansied I should do well to refresh my Me­mory with its Idea, that I might write things more certainly. In the mean time I intreat you to remember, that I have not promised to give you an intire description of any place: It would require a long con­tinuance in this City to learn every thing of it, and a great Volume to write it all.

Amsterdam is without doubt one of the most beautiful, admirable, and important Cities in the World; and 'tis certain, that it answers in every point the great Reputa­tion it hath in the World: But that one may be more Surprised with its Beauty, it would be best not to have known before­hand, the other Cities of Holland. I con­fess, that after I had seen the Haven of Rotterdam, and the Beauties of the Hague and Leyden, I was but little surprised when I came first to Amsterdam: I found nothing there which might much distinguish it from those other Cities. Nay, I must freely tell you, that the multitude of Carts [Page 22] and Truckles,There are some Streets which are always very clean. whose number swells daily by the vastness of the Trade, so pester and dirty the Streets, that it is not a very diverting Object to one who is charm'd only with such things as appear pleasant to the Eye, especi­ally if he come from another City, which can shew more neatness and tranquility.

There is no comparison to be made be­tween the greatness of Amsterdam and Lon­don, since, according to Calculation, there are near seven hundred thousand Souls in London, and Amsterdam contains not above two hundred thousand, although so great a number of French Refugees are lately settled there. Nevertheless, it must be acknow­ledged, that Amsterdam yields not to any City in the World for Riches, or extent of Trade. You know theThis Com­pany was esta­blished in 1594. East-India Compa­ny alone is so renowned and powerful that it hath made head against Princes, without interrupting the course of its Traffick. This famous City is all founded on Piles in the midst of a Marish: It is built on the South of the River Ye, Or Tye. which is, as it were, an Arm of the Zuyder-zee, on which the prodigious number of Ships resembles a vast Forest.

TheTwenty two Bastions. The Ditches are Eighty paces broad, deep and filled with running Water; the ordinary Garrison is eight Companies of 200 Men each: the Captains must be Amsterdamers. Besides, there are 60 Companies of Burghers, of 150 Men each. The Gates are shut at Nine of the Clock. They are partly guarded by the Citizens, and partly by the Garrison. The Keys are put into an Iron Chest in custody of the Citizens, and the chief Burgomaster keeps the Keys. G. L. Fortifications are not slight, and besides, there are Arsenals, and Sluces to [Page 23] drown all the Country about: So that it may be justly accounted a very strong place.It is said this Building cost three Mil­lions. The Town-house is a very large and stately Fabrick of hewn Stone, its length is one hundred and ten paces, and its breadth twenty four. The Foundation did cer­tainly cost as much as all the Superstructure. Its Architecture is highly valued, yet I fansie it ought to have had a fairer Portal, instead of those low and narrow Doors, which debase the entrance into this most splendid Palace; it were also to be wished, that the Court-yard before it were more neat and regular.

As soon as you leave this, you pass into theIt is called the New Church. It was formerly dedi­cated to St. Catharine. The Organs cost one hundred thou­sand Crowns. The Tomb of de Ruyter, is a piece worth your view in this Church. They designed to erect a very high Steeple to it, but that work remains imperfect. principal Church, which is not so large as those of Leyden and Harlem. It is to be considered, that Amsterdam, about four hundred and fifty Years ago was only a Village of Fishermen: And this so re­nowned a City in our Age, was but in a very indifferent condition when the Church, of which I am speaking, was built. In it they shew you the Pulpit, and tell you that it, together with its Canopy, cost twenty two thousand Crowns. It is made only of Wood, of Gothick Carving, much loaded with Ornaments. On the Glass-Windows of this Church is Painted the History of the Emperour Maximilian the Second, who honoured the Arms of the City with an Imperial Crown, in acknowledgment of the good Offices he had received from this City. The Portugueze Jews here are ex­traordinary Rich, and their Synagogue is [Page 24] aIt is a square Building, e­rected Anno 1671. not­withstanding the Inquisition against the Jews in Spain and Portugal. A Portugueze Jew (Don Jerome Nu­nez de Costa) was Agent of Portugal, at Amsterdam. And another (Don Emanuel de Belmont) Resident of Spain. This last received the Title of Count from the Em­perour. stately Building, whereas that of the High-Dutch is but mean and contempti­ble.

As we went along they brought us to one of theRasp-house. Houses of Correction for the young Debauchees, where they are con­strained to work: There was one in a dark Cellar, where he Pumped incessantly, with­out which the Cellar would in a quarter of an hour be filled with Water, and he by consequence in danger of Drowning. E­very one hath his Occupation and Task, which he must punctually perform under the Penalty of Whipping. Some are there for their lives, others only for a time. There is also the likeSpin-house. House for Whores, but they treat them with less Severity: This House is not very full. It is a dou­ble misfortune to about a Score of poor Creatures who are kept in this Prison to do Penance per force, whilst some thou­sands of their Comrades have their Tails at liberty: For to speak the truth, if these unhappy Recluses have deserved such a Treatment, it is most certain, that there are many others in Amsterdam who de­serve it more than they, yet are not thus shut up.

A modern Au­thor, who lived a long time at Amsterdam, hath written, that there are in that City about 13000 Roman Catholicks, and as many Lutherans, 4000 Anabaptists, 80 Families of Arminians, 50 of Quakers, 450 or some more of Portu­gueze Jews, 100 of High-Dutch Jews, and many private Persons who are of no Religion at all.The Roman Catholicks have here their Li­berty, as well as through all the States Do­minions: [Page 25] but I assure you that their num­ber is not near so great in this City, as some would perswade us. I had the fortune to discourse with a very intelligent and curi­ous Person, who hath examined this mat­ter; and he affirms, that the Roman Catho­licks, and the other Sectaries together, do not make a fourth part of the Inhabitants of Amsterdam. I know not whether you have heard of a kind of Convent of Nuns, call'dThere is 130 of them. They are in a large Cloyster. Their Church may easily contain 2000 People. Calvisius re­ports, that the Order of the Beguines was Instituted in the Year 1207. by one called Begues. Beguines, who are still tolerated here: There are a great many of them in the Spanish Netherlands. But because I believe you are not acquainted with this sort of Society, I will give you the Character of it in few and general terms: It is composed of Maidens or Widows who have no Chil­dren. There are amongst them some of all sorts of Qualities, and nothing is required to make them capable of admittance but good Testimonials, and an Estate sufficient to maintain them at their own Charges; every Beguine may have her House and ne­cessary conveniences by her self, or they may joyn several together, according as Kindred or Friendship may incline them. The place of this Society bears the name of the Beguinage, which is commonly like a little City inclosed within another, and hath about it a Wall and a Ditch. There is one Church in this inclosure, where the Beguines are obliged to be present at the hours appointed for their Devotions. Their Habits are black, and something fantastical. They regulate their Expences as they please [Page 26] themselves, as well for their Table as Fur­niture. They receive and pay Visits when they please. They quit the Beguinage when they are minded to Marry, or on any other occasion. And it may be said, that this retreat, far from the vowed constraint of a Convent, is a very sweet and reasonable manner of living.

The confusion caused by the Coaches, by reason of the perpetual Carriage of Mer­chandizes, and the danger of shaking the Houses, which, as I told you, are founded on Piles, is the reason that none but Strangers and Physicians are allowed to have any; Sleds indeed are permitted, but that being a slow and uneasie Carriage, there are none but old Women who make use of it.

We went to see a French Opera, where there was neither Machines, nor rich Cloaths, nor good Actors. That which we found most pleasant was a great Lass,You ought to see at Am­sterdam the Cabinets of Mr. Wiltzen, Vanderhem, Occo and Grill. C. Patin. who acts the part of a Man, and pro­nounc'd what she sung so well, that one would have believed her naturally French, tho' all she said was by rote, for she under­stood not a word of French. They say she was a Drummer for five or six Years amongst the Dutch Troops.

It is requisite I should say something of the famous Musick-Houses: They are a kind of Taverns or Halls for Dancing, where the young People, of the meanest sort, Men and Maids, meet every Evening. These are the meeting places, but the Intrigue is carried on in another. Usually Strangers [Page 27] have the curiosity to see them. They must make shew as if they had a mind to drink a Glass of Wine when it is offered, and give some gratuity to him or her who presents it.The Exchange of London is about 148 foot in length, and 120 in breadth.

The Burse or Exchange was built in the Year 1608. It is a Building of fine carved Stone, and founded on more than two thousand Piles. The place where the Mer­chants assemble is 200 foot long, and 124 in breadth. The Galleries are supported by forty six Pillars; they are neither so fine nor so numerous as those on the Ex­change at London.

The Academy, vulgarly called the illu­strious School, is a handsome Building: There they teach the Oriental and other Tongues: Divinity, Philosophy, History, &c. The Lawyers and the Physicians have also their Schools.

There are five Towers in the City, each of them having a great Clock, which are so placed and distributed, that the hours may be easily known in any part of the City. I had an hundred other Curiosities to tell you of Amsterdam, but I once more advise you to visit them your self.

We hope to depart to morrow for U­trecht, by the Canal; and tho' I cannot precisely tell the way we shall take thence to Cologne, yet I shall not fail to write to you as soon as I shall have wherewithal to fill a Letter.

I returned yesterday from Losdun, whi­ther some Friends obliged me to go a se­cond time with them. I am very glad I [Page 28] can inform you, that the Inscription which is seen in the Church of this Village, dif­fers from that in the Annals which I cited to you, in that, it calls the Bishop who Baptized the 365 Children, Guido, Suffra­gan of Utretcht; and in the Annals he is named William, Suffragan of Treves. This variation calls not in question the truth or probability of the Fact. There are many times alterations in the speaking and wri­ting of things which in themselves are very true; and this might be by the fault of the Transcriber. Above the Inscription are these two Verses:

En tibi monstrosum nimis, & memorabile factum,
Quale nec à mundi conditione datum.

And below, ‘Haec lege, mox animo stupefactus, Lector, abibis.’

I am, SIR, Yours, &c.

LETTER IV.

SIR,

WE were seven whole hours on the Canal between Amsterdam and U­trecht, but the way was extreamly pleasant, as well because of the fair Weather, and the fine Country, as of the good Company we had in the Boat.

We left on the Right-hand, three Leagues from Amsterdam, the old Castle of Abcow, with the Village of the same name, where are the bounds of the Province of Holland.

It was late when we came to Utrecht, and our Affairs allowed us to stay there but some part of the next day. This City be­gins to abate of the extream neatness of the Province of Holland, though it yet retains enough of it. You know it is great, anci­ent, and famous for its University.UTRECHT. The happy Union made here in the last AgeAnno 1579., which is the Band and Knot of the Re­publick, is an eternal Honour to this City. They boast of the extraordinary height of the Steeple of this Cathedral in which Church are kept some pretended Reliques,This Church was begun by Dagobert I. about the Year 630. which are in great Veneration with the Romanists.

[Page 30] M. Kercrin­gius, a famous Physician and Anatomist, dwelling at Utrecht, hath Foetus's of all Ages, by which you may observe the order, pro­portion, and progress of their Forma­tion, from the Egg to the forming of all the Organs of the Body. C. Patin.The Walk of the Mall is fine, and those of Utrecht esteem it the more, because it was spared by order of the French King when he came to that City some Years since; and his Troops, as you know, ruined all things thereabouts.

A Gentleman of Utrecht imparted a cu­rious Observation to me, by which you may judge of the number of Towns throughout this Country; he found forty eight, to each of which one may go easily from Utrecht in a day, and there are thirty three of them to which you may go and come back the same day.

When you go out of Utrecht, you find a Country altogether different from that we left last. The Canals and Ditches of Hol­land are changed into Hedges, and the Meadows into high and plowed Fields. Two hours from Utrecht we crossed the fine Avenues of Zeist in sight of a Castle on the right hand.ZEIST. It is a very fair Building, com­passed with large Ditches full of running Water, and adorn'd with Woods, Gardens, Statues, Fountains, and all other Embel­lishments you can desire. This House be­longs to one of the great Lords of the Country, who built it some Years since, and hath the repute of doing things mag­nificently.

Between Rhenen and Arnheim the Fields are almost wholly Planted with Tabaco, and the Stakes by which it is propped, make a shew of Vineyards at a distance.

[Page 31]Approaching the Village of Rhincom, three hours on this side Rhenen, you find a boun­dary Stone, which separates the Lordship of Utrecht from the Dutchy of Gueldres.

Arnheim is tolerably Fortified,ARNHEIM. otherwise I found nothing worth noting in it. The Beds in the Inns are made like Presses or Cupboards; which you go up a Ladder to, and after plunge your self into a deep Fea­ther-bed, and have another of the same sort for your covering.

Two good hours and an half from Arn­heim we passed the Yssell divided into three Branches very near each other: And then having traversed Doesbourg, DOES­BOURG. which is a little City on that River in the County of Zut­phen, we were forced to Dine with Biscuit and Milk in a paltry Village, and in the Evening we were treated much after the same manner at Ysselbourg, YSSEL­BOURG. which is a poor little dismantled place, at the entrance into the Country of Cleves.

There is scarce any thing but Woods and Sandy Grounds between Ysselbourg and Wesel; WESEL: formerly a Hans-Town. and this last place hath no great matter remarkable: Its Fortifications are so so. They are at present at Work on a Cittadel between the City and the Fort of Lippe on the bank of the Rhine. The Elector of Brandenburg gives liberty for the publick exercise of their Religion to the Roman Ca­tholicks in his Dutchy of Cleves, by a Treaty which that Prince made with the Duke of of Neuburg, now Elector Palatine, on condition that the Duke should grant the [Page 32] same liberty to the Protestants in his Dutchies of Juliers and Berg. There are four Churches at Wesel: The Protestants called Calvinists, have the two principal, the Lutherans the third, and those of the Roman Communion the other. The Jews have a little Syna­gogue there.

We passed the Lippe half an hour from Wesel, which River throws it self into the Rhine, and we came the same day in good time to Duisbourg. DUISBOURG formerly a Hans-Town. This City is about the bigness of Wesel, without Fortifications, or any thing considerable but its University. The principal Church is fair enough, and belongs to the Protestants. The Scholars walk about the Streets in their Morning-Gowns, like those of Leyden. I was in­formed that the Roman Catholicks might carry the Host about there, according to the plenary liberty which is granted them in all this Country, though they chose ra­ther to refrain from doing it, lest any acci­dents should happen which might disturb the peaceable manner of living which they and the Protestants enjoy together. A good half League from Duisbourg we entred into the Country of Berg, which, with that of Ju­liers, belongs to the Duke of Neuburg, El­dest Son to the Elector Palatine. And two hours after we passed through Keyserwaert, KEYSER­WAERT. which is a very little City upon the Rhine. It belongs to the Elector of Cologne, to whom, as we were informed, it remains in Mortgage, and by whom it was Fortified.

[Page 33]We have now been a few hours at Dussel­dorp, DUSSEL­DORP. where we have already walked about a great while to discover something worth our Observation. This City is bigger by half than Duisbourg, and every way better; there are no Suburbs to it, no more than to Keyserwart. The Fortifications are very well kept, and the Electoral Prince, the Duke of Newbourg, there makes his Resi­dence. This is all I can now say.

I am, SIR, Yours, &c.

LETTER V.

SIR,

THis Letter will give you an Account of part of what I could observe at Cologne in three days.COLOGNE, an Imperial City and Hans-Town. Otho the Great made it an Imperial City, and gave it the Privi­ledges it now enjoys. As we wander'd in our Walks abroad, you must expect no regular Order in the little Relations which I send you. I am glad to give you this Advertisement by the by, that you may not expect to have things in a better Me­thod than we found them.

[Page 34] Cologne is to be seen far enough off, and all in plain view in a level Country. The City is very great,There are 24 Gates, 13 to the Land, and 11 on the Rhine. surrounded with a Wall and dry Ditch, with Towers and Bastions which defend its Gates. There is rarely so great a number of Steeples to be any where seen, as appeared to us on the side we ap­proached it.

Cologne, as you know, is an Imperial City, governed by its Burgo-Masters: But the Arch-Bishop hath there a very great Power. This Prince takes cognizance of all Affairs both Civil and Criminal, and can Pardon those whom the Magistrates con­demn. And the Oath which the City takes, seems to be a kind of Homage: It is in these terms; We Free Burgesses of Cologne, do this day, for now, and for ever promise to — Arch-Bishop of Cologne, to be faithful and favourable to him, as long as he shall conserve in our Rights and Honour, and in our ancient Priviledges, Us, our Wives, our Children, and our City of Cologne. So God and his Saints help us.

There is great Jealousie be­tween the City and the Elector. They will not suffer him to stay long there with any great Train. Many Arch-Bishops have attempted their Liberties. Ʋnder the Reign of the Emperour Adol­phus of Nassaw, the Inhabitants went in Arms to meet their Arch-Bi­shop, as far as Woringhen in Brabant, where having put the Keys of their City between him and them in the Field of Battel, to be the price of the Victory, they obtained that with their Keys and Franchises. They have ever since celebrated a Festival on this Account, with a great deal of Ceremony. Heiss.If you please, you may have the Answer which the Bishop returns them; it was a Burgo-Master gave me them both.

[Page 35] We — by the Grace of God, Arch-Bishop of the Holy Church of Cologne, and Arch-Chancellor of the Empire in Italy: To the end that there may be an amicable Confederacy, entire Confidence, and sincere and inviolable Peace between Us and our dear Burgesses of the City of Cologne, do make known to all by these Pre­sents, that we do promise and declare sincerely, and without Fraud, that we do confirm all their Rights and Franchises, written or not written, old or new, within or without the City of Cologne, which have been granted to it by the Popes, Emperours, Kings, and Arch-Bishops, of Cologne, without ever doing any thing to violate the same. In Testimony whereof, &c.

The Chapter of Cologne is composed of sixty Canons, who ought all to be Princes or Earls. The four and twenty Eldest are the Capitularies.

It was formerly the Electors of Cologne, who Crowned the Emperour according to the Constitution of the Golden-Bull; but these Electors not having been Priests for a long time, those of Mentz perform that Office in their stead, and the last haveThey pretend also to this right, in quality of the first Arch-Bishops. The Emperour now reigning was Crowned by the Arch-Bishop of Cologne. since remained in possession of that Privi­ledge.

I am inform'd that there are here many Protestants known to be such: They go into the Lands of the Duke of New­bourg, to exercise their Religion. They are always call'd by their old name of [Page 36] Those who presented the Petition were Habited all alike. They never take it ill to be called Gueux, and to distinguish themselves by that Name, they hung a Medal at their Necks, upon which, on one side, was the Effigies of the King, (Philip II.) and on the other, two hands joyned to­gether, which held two Budgets, with divers little Porringers, and round about was written, Faithful to the King even to Beggary. Gab. Chappuys, Hist. of the Wars of Flanders. Gueux, or Beggars, which, as you know, was given at Brussels to the Authors of the Agreement, by the Count de Barlemont.

The Town-House is a great Gothick Building. We saw there, amongst other things, Chambers full of Bows, Arrows, Cross-Bows, Quivers, Bucklers, and other ancient Arms. I measured one of those great Cross-Bows which had need of Rests; The Bow was of Whale-Bone, and had twelve Foot of length, eight Inches broad, and four Inches thick. It is very plea­sant to behold Cologne, and the delicate Country about it, from the top of the Tower of this House.

The little part of the City, which is on the other side of the Rhine, is the Propriety of the Elector, and is the Quarter allotted to the Jews.

The Cathedral Church remains in a very imperfect State; it is great pity so fine a beginning should never attain its end. In the Year 1622. the three pretended Kings, who came to adore our Saviour, were brought from Milan into this Church,When Frede­rick Barba­rossa caused Milan to be where Fame attributes many Miracles to them. They sell for a peny a dozen little Billets, which have touched them, and com­municate their Virtue.

[Page 37]An extraordinary Drought having caused a Famine in Hungary (I know not posi­tively in what time it was) a great number of the People of that Country, came to supplicate the assistance of the three Kings, after they had in vain invoked the Saints of their Country and Neighbourhood; who had no sooner spoke the word, but it rained in great abundance. From that time a Procession of Hungarians comes every seventh Year to pay Homage to their Be­nefactors; and these People are treated and waited upon by the Magistrates for fifteen days, in a very fine House built on purpose for them.

I observed a hole three or four Foot wide, on the top of the Vaulted Roof of the Church, and almost over the Chapel, where are kept these Royal Reliques. There are these words written round this Overture, Anno 1404. 30.See To. II. Letter xxiii. Octob. ventus de nocte flat ingens grandem per tectum lapi­dem pellit. On the 30th. of October, in the Year 1404. a great Wind blew in the Night, and drove a great Stone through the Roof. This Stone lies on the Pavement near the Cha­pel. Our Guide told us, they call'd it, the Devil's Stone, because it is believed, the Devil threw it out of Malice to destroy the Chapel. I observ'd likewise in the same Church, over one of the doors, thirty six gilded Staves, about three foot long each; and this Distich is written underneath:

Quot pendere vides Baculos tot Episcopus Annos
Huic Agrippinae praefuit Ecclesiae.

[Page 38] And in effect, the Elector is at this time in the thirty seventh Year of his Arch-Bi­shoprick. But I could not learn neither the Original, nor the Benefit of this Custom.

We saw, as we passed, the curious Church of the Jesuits, and from thence went to that of St. Ursula. You know, without doubt, the Legend of this Saint, and of her eleven thousand Virgins, who were Massacred with her by the Huns at Cologne, in the Year 238. Those who first wrote this Story, supposed that there was one Etherus, King of England, and Husband of Ursula, and one Pope Cyriack, his Con­temporary, Persons of whom no notice is taken in History. In the mean time, every one of the eleven thousand Virgins, have done eleven thousand Miracles, and fur­nished a great number of Reliques. The Body of Ursula lay for a long time con­founded amongst the rest; but they say it was at last distinguished by a Pigeon; who, for several days, came regularly at a set hour to her Tomb: And at present the Saint is laid near her Husband Etherus. The Church is filled with the Tombs of many of the Virgins, and you find always a multitude of Old-Women in it, repeating of Pater-nosters from Morning to Night. They say the Earth of this Church will not endure any other dead Corps; and to prove this, they there shew the Tomb of a Daughter of a certain Duke of Brabant, who, after they had forcibly Interred her there, raised up her self, and remained in [Page 39] the Air, so that they were fain to fix her with Iron, as she is now two or three Feet from the Earth, against one of the Pillars of the Church.

It is pleasant to see in a great Chapel, which is on the side of this same Church, the Bones of the Virgins, with which it is adorned and hung, after the manner which you see the Swords and Pistols ranged at White-Hall, in the Guard-Chamber. These Bones, except the Heads, have no Orna­ments, but to the Heads they have done particular Honours; for some of them are put up in cases of Silver, and others have coverings of Gold, there is none which have not at least their Caps of Cloath of Gold, or a Bonnet of Crimson-Velvet, wrought with Pearls and Jewels. Behold, Sir, what, together with the pretended three Kings, is the chief Object of the Devotion of Cologne, and from whence it comes to be called Cologne the Holy: and from hence also it is, that the Arms of this City are, Argent, eleven Flames Gules, with a Chief of the Second, charged with three Crowns Or. The eleven Flames are in Memorial of the eleven thousand Virgins, and the three Crowns re­present the three Kings.

In the Church of the Maccabees there is a Crucifix which wears a Peruke, which is very singular; but that which is marvellous and edifying is, that when the Hungarian Pilgrims come to Cologne, they do each of them cut off a lock of Hair from this Peruke, and yet it never diminishes.

[Page 40]I observ'd, at the entrance into the Church of the Twelve Apostles, a Picture, which represents a very rare Event; which never­theless might easily be received for Truth, if the end of the Story did not render it suspicious. The Wife of a Consul of Cologne, being Buried in the Year 1571. with a Ring of great Price, the Sexton, the Night following, opened the Tomb to steal the Ring; I leave you to judge if he were not frighted when he felt his hand caught hold of, and when the good Lady grasped him to get out of the Sepulchre, and yet he loosed himself and fled away, without further Conversation. The Person raised, unwrapped her self as well as she could, and went to knock at the door of her House; She called a Servant by his Name, and in few words told him the summ of her Adventure, that he might not let her Perish with Cold: But the Man thought her a Ghost, and all in a fright run to tell the thing to his Master. (So far may be true, now comes the Fable.) The Master, as incredulous as the Man, called him Fool, and said he would as soon be­lieve his Horses were in the Garret, and instantly a most dreadful noise was heard in the Garret; the Man went up thither, and found six Coach-Horses there, without counting the rest in the Stable. The Consul, amazed at so many Prodigies, was not able to speak; the Man was in an Extasie or Swound in the Garret, and the living deceas'd, quaking in her Shroud, [Page 41] was expecting to be let in: at last it came to pass that the door was opened, and they chafed and us'd her so well, that she reviv'd as if nothing had pass'd; and the next day they made Machines necessary to let down the Horses. And to make the truth of this appear, there is at this day to be seen in the Garret, some Wooden Horses, which are covered with the others Skins. And they shew in the Church of the Twelve Apostles, a great piece of Linen Cloath which this Woman Spun after her return to the World; in which she lived seven Years afterwards.

I have nothing further to tell you of Cologne, only that this is the Country where­in we first begun to find Vines; tho' Wine here is very dear in the Houses of Enter­tainment. And that there are yet remain­ing someLeskirken and Judaes. Families, who affirm they are issued from the Roman Race, and who pro­duce their Genealogies, from the first time this City was made a Colony of the Em­pire.

I am, SIR, Yours, &c.

LETTER VI.

SIR,

THE Ways from Cologne to Mentz are so bad at present, and the Chariot so unpleasant and uneasie, that we chose ra­ther to remount the Rhine, let the Passage be never so slow.

BONN.We quickly arriv'd at Bonn, which ap­peared to us a little dirty City; I could not learn that there was any thing in it to deserve our stay there. The Fortifications are neglected, and the Palace of the Elector of Cologne, who there makes his Residence, seems to be but a very indifferent House. We had in the Boat a Burgo-Master of Cologne, ANDER­NACH. and Keyser­waert have a right of Toll on the Rhine. who told me, as we passed by An­dernache that there are some Gentlemen in that little City who have particular Privi­ledges, and are called Free Knights. He also told me many Stories of a great House on the other side the Rhine, which is not Inhabited, and which he said was haunted with Spirits, the ordinary scandal of unin­habited Houses or Castles.

COBLENTZ. The most an­cient Arch-Bi­shoprick in all Germany, and the Residence of the Elector of Treves. The Chapter of Treves admit neither Princes nor Earls easily. The Canons are, as much as is possible, only Gentlemen; they must prove sixteen Descents of Nobility, both on the Father and Mother's side. Heiss. Coblentz is built upon a nook of Ground, which the Moselle makes when it falls into [Page 43] the Rhine. This City seemed to us very agreeable, and they told us it was very well Fortified on the Land side, but we saw only single Walls on that part which is watered by the Moselle and the Rhine. The Castle, which is on a rising Ground, on the other side of the River, is a very strong place, and wholly commands the City. They call this Castle Ehrenbreisten, EHREN­BREISTEN. which signifies the famous Rock, or the Rock of Honour: It is built on the Ruines of the Fort of Hermestein, of which there remains only that corner of the Rock on which the Windmil stands. There is always a good Garrison in this place, with store of Arms and Ammunition. The Palace of the Elector of Treves is at the foot of the Hill, under the Fortress, and on the Bank of the Rhine.

Over-against the Town of Caub, which belongs to the Elector Palatine, half a League from Baccharach, which appertains to him likewise, there is an old Castle called Pfaltz in the middle of the Rhine, from whence, as some say, the Pfaltzgravts, or, as we call them, the Palsgraves, or Counts Palatines, derive their Name.BACCHA­RACH. Baccharach is a very little City built on the side of a Hill, and famous for its excellent Wines. One of the Ministers of the place, with whom we Dined, pretended that Baccha­rach was derived from Bacchi Ara, or the Altar of Bacchus; and he told us there were four ancient Towns in the Neighbourhood, which were also Consecrated to Bacchus: Steegbach, which is on a Hillock, Scala Bacchi, [Page 44] the Ladder of Bacchus. Diebach, Digitus Bacchi, or the Finger of Bacchus. Handbach, or Mannersbach, Manus Bacchi, or the Hand of Bacchus: And Lorch, Laurea Bacchi, or the Bays of Bacchus.

As we parted from Baccharach, a furious Storm arose, which cast away a large Boat, and ours was not without some danger. We went ashore a little before we came to Rudisheim, where the bad Weather con­strained us to stay a while; and we passed by an old ruinous House, which they said belonged to that wicked Arch-Bishop of Mentz, Mentz was made an Arch-Bishoprick by Pope Zachary, Anno, 745. who was eaten by Rats. The Rhine makes there a little Island, in the midst of which is a square Tower, which they call the Tower of Rats: And it is commonly reported, that this Prelate, who was then the most wicked and cruel Man alive, fell sick in that House which I lately mentioned (some say it was in another a little further off, but that is nothing to the Story,) and that, by an extraordinary Judgment of God, he was environed with Rats, which could by no means be driven away. They add, that he caused himself to be carried into the Island, where he hoped he might have been freed from them, but the Rats multiplied, swam over the River and devoured him. An ingenious Man, whom I saw in this place, assured me, that he had read this Story in some old Chronicles of the Coun­try. He said he remembred, that the Arch-Bishop was there nam'd Renald, and that this happened in the Tenth Age. I [Page 45] would willingly give credit to this Story, but I fear however that there is some mi­stake in it. For I know that about this time there was a certain Priest, named Ar­nald, who fraudulently dispossessed the Arch-Bishop Henry; and that this Arnald was Massacred by the People, which may have given occasion to some confusion in these Histories. Another Person told me, that the Name of the Arch-Bishop was Hatton II. surnamed Bonosus; and that in a time of Famine, he caused a great number of poor People to be assembled in a Barn, where he caus'd them to be burnt, saying, These are the unprofitable Vermine, which are good for no­thing but to consume the Bread which should serve for the Sustenance of others. However,Pliny, upon the Testimony of Varro, relates that the Isle of Gyara, one of the Cyclades, was abandoned by the Inhabi­tants because of Rats. He adds, That a City of Spain, was over­thrown by Rabbets. One in Thessaly by Moles. One in France by Frogs. And another in Africk by Mice. this Story is generally believed here, though others look upon it as a Fable. Some will lightly and hastily swallow any Prodigy, and others may offend as much by too much incredulity. If the Holy Scripture describes us a Pharaoh, pestered with Lice and Frogs, and an Herod, devoured by Worms; why should we hastily condemn the like event for a Fable? More sur­prizing things have no doubt fallen out: And I remember I have read two such Hi­stories in the Fasciculus temporum. The words of the Author are very like these, Mures infiniti convenerant quemdam, potenter circum­vallantes cum in concivio, nec potuerunt abigi donec devoraretur. That is, A multitude of Mice compassed him about, strongly as­saulting him in a Banquet, nor could they [Page 46] be driven away till they had devoured him. This happen'd about the Year 1074. He adds, Idem cuidam Principi Poloniae contigit. The same thing hapned to a certainPoppiel II. Surnamed Sardanapa­lus, he, his Wife and Children, were eaten by Rats, Anno 823. Poppielus Principes Polonorum Patruos suos veneno per fraudem interimit, eósque insepultos projicit, sed ex cadaveribus mures enati sunt qui Poppielum & ambos ejus filios una cum uxore devorant. Chronicon de Pop. Garon places this event in the Year 830. And he adds, That the Rats eat the name of Hatton, which was in many places in the Tower of the Rhine. The History of Hatton is related at large by Trithemius in his Chronicles, and by Camerarius in his Meditations. Calvisius reports, that in 1013. a certain Soldier was eaten by Rats. See 1 Sam. ch. 6. ver. 4, 5. Prince of Poland.

From Bonn to Binghen, three Leagues be­low Mentz, the Rhine is almost always be­tween the Mountains; this Passage which it so happily met with, seems to be a par­ticular work of Providence. You would fansie it to be a Canal made on purpose for this River, cross a Country which natu­rally was inaccessible to it, for fear, that not being capable to continue its course, it should swell and overflow the Provinces, which now its Stream only waters: At the foot of the Mountains which thus shut it up, the whole Country is full of Vineyards; and there are to be seen, on its Banks, both to the right and left, a great number of little Cities and good Villages. Castles there are also very frequent, most of them built on ascents, and even on the points of the sharpest Rocks. I counted forty since my departure from Cologne.

[Page 47]I observed also in my way, a strange fantasticalness in the Habits of the Peasants, especially the Women. About Bonn and Rhindorfe they wore only on their Heads a little Cap of coloured Stuff, bordered with Galoon of another colour. Their Hair hangs in Tresses quite down their Backs. They make their Waste extreamly short, and have a broad Leather Girdle with which they girt themselves half a Foot below their Waste, which is compassed with a thick folded Rowl, and lifts up their Pet­ticoats so high, that they reach but little below their Knees.

The Rhine is very broad, all the way from Binghen to Mentz. MENTZ. At Mentz you go over it on a Bridge of Boats which hath no sup­porters. The first thing you meet with, when you come to this City from Cologne, is the Elector's Palace; it is of reddish Stone, and its Architecture hath a great number of Ornaments, after the German, though other­wise regular and magnificent enough.

The bad Weather hindred us from seeing the Arsenal, as well as the Citadel and o­ther Fortifications. But we were assured our loss was not great, there being nothing at all rare in any of them.

They told us, that in the middle of the Citadel there is a kind of Tower, com­monly call'd the Tomb of Drusus. Drusus Germanicus, Brother to Tiberius, died in Ger­many, to the great Grief, as you know, of the People and Army: But he died not on the Rhine. Besides, you may remember [Page 48] that his Body was carried to Rome to be burnt in the Field of Mars. It is true, that after Augustus had caused the Senate to give him the Surname of Germanicus, he also made Statues to be erected for him, with triumphal Arches, and other Monu­ments on the Banks of the Rhine: And perhaps this Tower or Mausoleum was one of his honorary Tombs, which the Anci­ents call'd [...].

The Ornaments in which the Electors cele­brate Mass are extraordinary Rich: And the Canopy under which the Host is carried, on certain occasions, is all covered with Pearls. I remember I have read in the Chronicles of the Abbey of Usberg, that they had former­ly in the Treasury of the Vestry, an hollow Emerald of the bigness and shape of half a large Melon. This Author said, that on some days they put Water into that Cup, with two or three little Fishes which swam about in it; and when the Cup was covered they shewed it to the People, and the mo­tion of the Fishes produced such an effect, as persuaded the silly People that the Stone was alive.

Every Elector bears the Arms of his own House, but he Quarters Gules, a Wheel Argent, which are the Arms of the Electo­rate. It is said, that the Original of these Arms came from theWilligese or Viligese of the Country of Brunswick. This Chapter is wholly composed of Gentle­men. There are 42, of which 24 are Capitularies. Two thirds of their Suffrages are required in the choice of an Elector. Heiss. The Ʋniversity was Founded by the Arch-Bishop Ditherus, Anno 1482. Calvis. first Elector, who [Page 49] was the Son of a Cart-wright. There are to be seen in this Church many magnificent Tombs of these Princes who commonly are buried there.

The Protestants may live at Mentz, but not exercise their Religion there. The City is indifferently large, but not much Peo­pled, and the University in no very good Condition. However, the situation makes amends, which is very pleasant, and the Country about it is excellently good.

You know that the Elector of Mentz, is the first of the Ecclesiasticks, and Dean of the Electoral College. I shall say nothing of his Fines or Revenue, nor of those of the other Princes; for in things of that nature, 'tis almost impossible to make a right Judgment.

I am, SIR, Yours, &c.

LETTER VII.

SIR,

AFter we had crossed the Rhine before Mentz, we entred into the Meine, which, by the Figure Parenthesis, is called Moganus, as well as Moenus; and from thence some think Moguntia took its name. We made use of the ordinary Boat of Francfort, [Page 50] and came thither the same day in very good time.

FRANC­FORT, an Imperial City. Eleven Roy­al Bastions.This City is larger, richer, fairer, and better Peopled than Mentz. Its Fortifica­tions seem tolerable, though they have their defects. It is seated in a flat Country, and hath no Suburbs. The Houses are built of that red kind of Stone, of which I have spoken before, or of Wood or Plaister covered with Slates. The Meine, which is a considerably large River, leaves it on the Right. A Stone Bridge, which is four hundred paces long, makes the Com­munication between Francfort and Saxen­hausen.

Francfort is an Imperial City, and hath a small Territory under its Government. The Senate are Lutherans, as also the greatest part of the Inhabitants. The Roman Ca­tholicks are in possession of the principal Church; in which the Ceremony of a­nointing the Emperour is performed. But they only carry the Host incognito, and make no Processions in publick. The Protestants, whom they call Cavinists, have the exercise of their Religion at Bochenheim, which is a small hour's Walk from thence, in the County of Hannau. They are obliged to Marry and Christen in the Lutheran Churches.

We took a viewIt was burn­ed in the Year 1460. with the Records of the City. Charlemain granted its freedom with very great Priviledges. in the Town-house, of the Chamber in which the Election of [Page 51] the Emperour is made, and where is kept one of the Originals of the Golden Bull: This Chamber hath nothing Magnificent; there are only old Tapistry Hangings, a great Table with a green Carpet, and great Elbow-Chairs of black Velvet for the Electors. On the side of this Chamber is the Hall, where certain Ceremonies are ob­served which succeed the Election; and when they are over, the Emperour descends from the Hall, and goes to the Church, where he is Crowned.

The Golden Bull is a Book of twenty four Leaves of Parchment, in Quarto, which are sewed together, and covered with ano­ther piece of Parchment, without any Or­nament. The Seal is fastned to it by a silken String of many Colours, and is co­vered with Gold, so as it resembles a Me­dal: It is two Inches and a half in breadth, and a large Line in thickness. Upon the Seal is the Emperour Charles IV. Seated and Crowned, holding a Scepter in his Right-hand, and the Globe in his Left. The Shield of the Empire is on his Right, and that of Bohemia on his Left. And a­bout it is written, Carolus quartus divinâ fa­vente clementiâ Romanorum Imperator semper Augustus, and on each side near the two Scutcheons, Et Bohemiae Rex. On the Re­verse there is a kind of a Gate of a Castle between two Towers, which appa­rently denotes Rome, this Verse being writ­ten about: ‘Roma Caput mundi regit orbis fraena rotundi.’ [Page 52] And upon the Gate between the two Towers, Roma aurea.

This Bull was given at Nuremberg, in the Year 1356. by the Emperour Charles IV. with the consent of all the States of the Empire. The design of the Institutors was, that this Edict should be perpetual and irre­revocable, yetParticularly in the Treaties of Westphalia. many Innovations have been made since. It describes particularly the form of the Election of the Emperour, orThe Empe­rour, and the King of the Romans, in the sence of the Bull, are but one Person. In it he is often called Head of the Faithful, and first Prince of the Christian World. The Bull is written in Latin. the King of the Romans, whom it fre­quently stiles the Temporal Head of the Christian World. It regulates many things that relate to the Electors, touching their Rank, their Assemblies, their Rights and Immunities, the Right of Succession to the Electorate, and the Manner after which every one of them is to perform his Functi­on in publick Ceremonies. It ordains these Princes to assemble once in the Year to settle the Affairs of the Empire. The E­lector of Saxony, in conjunction with the Elector Palatine, are declared Regents, after the Death of the Emperour. But things, as you know, having been changed in favour of the Duke of Bavaria, that Elector pretends to the Regency. 'Tis a question whether the Vicariat be affixed to the Electorate, in which the Duke of Ba­varia was invested, or if it remain to the House of the Counts Palatines.

Now, there is a King of the Romans, he is perpetual Vicar and Heir of the Empire. It was for this reason that Philip II. had only the Kingdom of Spain for his share, [Page 53] and that Ferdinand his Uncle, who in the Life of Charles V. was elected King of the Romans, came to be Emperour.

Francfort is the place appointed by the Bull, for the Election of the Emperour. Nevertheless, Henry II. was chosen at Mentz, and Henry III. at Aix la Chappelle; This is no lon­ger observed. some have been also Elected at Cologne, and others at Ausbourg and Ratishonne. It was also or­dained, that the Emperour should be first Crowned at Aix, which for a long time hath not been practised. Every Elector may haveOn the day of Electing the Emperour, there is a whole Oxe served in a Dish, roasted, larded, and stuffed with Wild Fowls and Venison. After the Feast the Oxe is left to the People. Borjou Dign. Temp. two hundred Men, as well for his Guard as his Attendance, during the time of the Election. And the Citizens of Francfort are to take care that no Stran­gers be found in their City at that time, upon pain of losing their Priviledges. This Bull contains many Regulations, which I shall not at present relate.

The famous Treacle of Francfort is made there by Doctor Peters, who is a skilful Apothecary, and in other respects a very curious Person. There are more than an hundred several Drugs that enter this Com­position, which are to be seen ranged in Pyramids, on a long Table. The Doctor hath many Antiquities, and other Rarities, amongst which he highly values a Stone taken out of a humane Body, which is as big as ones head, and cost him 1600 Crowns.

There are in this place a great number of Jews, but they are as beggarly as those of Amsterdam are rich. They wear their Beards piqued, and have black Cloaks, with [Page 54] puffed Ruffs, they go from Tavern to Ta­vern, to sell any thing to Strangers: but be­ing reputed Thieves you must take heed of 'em. Moreover here is a Task imposed on them, to run and fetch Water when any Fire happens in the City.

Of Francfort, see further, p. 117.You know, the Fairs of Francfort contri­bute much to the Fame and Riches of that City. There are Three in a Year, which bring a considerable Trade to it.

The University was founded in the Year 1506, by Joachim and Albert of Branden­burgh.

I am, SIR, Yours, &c.

LETTER VIII.

SIR,

AS we took Coach at Francfort to pro­ceed on our Journey, we observed the Coachman to put a little Salt upon each of his Horses, with certain little Ceremo­nies, which made part of the Mystery; and this, as he told us, was to bring us good Luck, and to preserve us from Charms and Witchcraft, during our Voyage.

We passed the Rhine at Gernsheim, and af­ter we had gone through Woods that were drowned, by the overflowing of that Ri­ver, (which made the ways both dangerous and difficult) we found them very good be­tween [Page 55] the End of this Wood, and the Ci­ty of Worms, which is but two little Leagues.WORMS, an Imperial Ci­ty. This City is about three or four hundred Paces, on the left side of the Rhine, in an excellent Country, and most pleasant Situ­ation. It is girt about with a double Wall, without any Garrison, or even Fortification that is worth Observation.Worms was formerly an Arch Bishop­rick But Pope Zachary remo­ved the See to Mentz, to pu­nish the Arch-bishop Gervil­lian, who, con­trary to his Faith, killed a Man, whom he invited out of the Camp of the Saxons, his Enemies, to have a familiar conference with him. Heiss. This is a poor Bishoprick. The Bishop hath a great Power there, though it be a free and Imperial City. It is near as large as Francfort, but poor, melancholy and ill peo­pled. They shewed me a House that was lately sold for a thousand Crowns, which had been Lett formerly for a thousand Crowns per Annum. There are many void places in this City, in which they have planted so many Vines, that they yield eve­ry Year fifteen hundred Foudres of Wine: the Fouder is a Cask which holds about two hundred and fifty English Gallons. They highly prize this Wine, and they have a Pro­verb, That it is sweeter than the Virgins Milk. The City presents it to Persons of Quality, as they pass by, as also Fish and Oats. The Fish is to shew the Right of Fishing, which they have on the Rhine; but what the Oats signifie I know not: it cannot be to represent their Territory, because they have none. The Lutherans have here a Church; and, besides that, they preach by turns with the Roman Catholicks, in that of the Dominicans; the rest belong to the Roman Catholicks, who carry not the Host publickly, nor make any Procession, except the Day after Easter. The Prote­stants, [Page 56] whom I will still call Calvinists to distinguish them from the Lutherans, have their Church at Newhawsel in the Palati­nate, about half a League from the City; the Lutherans are not shy sometimes to Chri­sten their Children there, which is directly opposite to the Practice of the Lutherans at Francfort.

They say, that a Lord of the House of Alberg, having brought a great many Jews from Palestine, sold Thirty of them for a Piece of Silver, at the City of Worms: where they were for a long time treated as Slaves, before they could obtain the Liberty which they at present enjoy in common with the other Inhabitants.

The Church of St. Paul seems to be an ancient Building, but I believe that of St. John is the older. This last is built with very great square Stones, and its Figure is quite irregular. The Walls are above twelve Foot thick, the Windows are narrow, and there are Galleries all round the outside of the Building just under the Roof. There is but little Appearance that this was built for a Church: the Cathedral is a long Structure of a considerable Height, with a Tower at each of the four Corners; the whole Build­ing is very massive, and embellished with Gothick Ornaments. They shewed us a cer­tain Animal, over one of the Doors of this Church, of which the People tell a hun­dred Stories. This Animal is as big as an Ass, and hath four Heads; one Head of a Man, one of an Oxe, one of an Eagle, [Page 57] and one of a Lion: it lifts up the two first, and hangs down the other two. The right Foot before is a Man's, the left an Oxe's, the two hinder Feet are of an Eagle and a Lion: and a Woman sits upon the Beast. If I durst penetrate into this Mystery, I think it might be conjectured, that this Hie­roglyphick is a Chimera composed of the four Animals in the Vision of Ezekiel, and that the Woman represents the Gospel.

I took notice of a Picture, over the Al­tar of one of the Chapels of this Church, in which the Virgin is represented receiving Christ as he descends from the Cross, while several Angels carry the Instruments of the Crucifixion to Heaven. But either the Pain­ter has forgot, or else the Angels have since brought back all these Reliques.

There is another very curious Picture, at the Entrance of the Church of St. Martin, over a moveable Altar. This Picture is about five Foot Square. God the Father is on the Top of one Corner, from whence he seems to speak to the Virgin Mary, who is on her knees in the midst of the Picture: she holds the little Infant Jesus by the Feet, and puts his Head into the Hopper of a Mill: the twelve Apostles turn the Mill by a Wheel, with their Hands, and they are assisted by these four Beasts of Ezekiel, which we just spoke of, who work on the other side. Not far off the Pope kneels to receive the Hosts, which fall from the Mill ready made into a Cup of Gold. He presents one to a Car­dinal, [Page 58] the Cardinal gives it to a Bishop, the Bishop to a Priest, and the Priest to the People.

There are in the City two publick Hou­ses; one of which is called the Burgher's House, in which the Senate assembles twice every Week, about the Affairs of the State: the other is for the Magistracy, and is the Place where common Causes are pleaded. It was in the first that Luther made his Ap­pearance on an occasion known to all the World. They tell us, that this Doctor, ha­ving spoke with much eagerness, and being besides heated by the fire which was before him, some body brought him a Glass of Wine, which he receiv'd; but such was his ve­hemence, that he forgot to drink, and with­out thinking of it, set it on a Bench which was by his side: they add, that the Glass im­mediately after broke without any Person's touching it, and it passed for current that the Wine was poisoned. I will make no Gloss upon this Story. But afterwards the Bench on which he set the Glass was bro­ken, and some Pieces were taken out of it, which some zealous Lutherans keep in memo­ry of their Master.

We went also to see another House, which they call the Mint; in which, among other things, I observed aThese two Verses are written on the Top of the Leaf. Mira fides, pedibus Juvenis facit omnia recta, Cui pariens mater brachia nulla dedit. Leaf of Parch­ment, in a square Frame, upon which there [Page 59] are twelve sorts of Hands written, very fair­ly, with many Miniatures and Draughts boldly traced with a Pen. It was written by one Thomas Schuveiker, who was born without Arms, and perform'd this with his Feet. They also shew another little round piece of Vellum, about the bigness of a Guiney, upon which the Lord's-Prayer, without abbreviation, is written. But this is no extraordinary thing. I know aMaximin Mossileni. Man who wrote the same Prayer six times in the same compass, more distinctly. This House hath a long Portico, between the Arches of which hang great Bones and Horns. They say the Bones are the Bones of Giants, and the Horns the Horns of the Oxen which drew the Stones with which the Cathedral is built. And are not these very curious and venerable Pieces? The outside of the House is full of several Pictures, amongst which there are many of Armed Giants, which in the Inscription below are called Vangiones. We know very well that the People who formerly inhabited this part of the Rhine, were called Vangiones, as we find in Tacitus, and others. But I cannot tell the reason, why they would have these Vangiones to be Giants. Nevertheless, these great Men there make a great noise at Worms, they tell a thousand Stories of them, and when they have done, every one is at liberty to say what he pleases of them.

We only passed by Frankendal, FRANKEN­DAL. the For­tifications of which are pretty good, and would be better if they were lined; but [Page 60] they are forced to slope them too much, be­cause the too soft and ill cemented Earth could not otherwise be supported. This defect is yet apparently greater in the For­tifications of Manheim. MANHEIM. These two little places belong to the Elector Palatine. 'Tis but two hours Travel from one to the other. The situation of Manheim is its greatest Strength: For it is not commanded by any rising Ground, and is almost surrounded by the Neckar and the Rhine. There is a good Garison in the Citadel, but the greatest Rarity that I found in it is the Temple of Concord. The Elector Charles Louis, Fa­ther of Charles the Last, Deceased, caused this Church to be built, to serve in common for the Protestants, both Calvinists and Lu­therans. But this Prince being of a pleasant Humour, and not very scrupulous about Religion, the first day they Preach'd in this Church, permitted a Curate of the Neigh­bourhood to Preach there also; who made rather an Encomium of the Prince, than a Sermon. But they pretended not then that this was to be continued by course, and after that time the Lutherans, with the other Reformists, solely made use of the Church. But in fine, this present Elector being a Romanists, hath thought fit to joyn those of his Communion with the others. And be­sides his Will, which is most strong and pre­valent, he pretends this reason, that it is not contrary to the Will of the Founder, which he proves from the Harangue of the Curate. Therefore now the three Mini­sters [Page 61] of the three Religions, perform each in their turn the Service in the Church of Concord. They begin and end successively, in such manner as in three successive Sun­days, each of the three Ministers hath the priviledge to begin first, as also to be se­cond or third. The Church is not great, but is very fine. The Pulpit is in common, when the Roman Catholicks have ended Mass, they draw the Curtain, and hide the Al­tar.

About forty Years ago, Manheim was but a little Village, Frederick, Father of Charles Louis, caused it to be fortified, and named it Fredericksburg; at the same time this City was built, which resum'd the name of Manheim, and was fortified also. All the Streets are in straight Lines, and in some are Trees planted, as in Holland. Manheim is a very pretty place. Every day at five of the Clock in the Morning, at Noon and at six in the Evening, there are hired Musicians, who sing part of a Psalm on the Tower of the Town-house. They have such loud Instruments that they are heard all over the Town. This is done in most places of the Palatinate.

When we left Manheim, after we had passed the Neckar, over a Bridge of Boats, we traversed a very fertile Plain, which continued for three hours, to the foot of the Mountains of Heidelberg. These Moun­tains make a long ridge as if they would hinder ones going further: Yet there we met with an opening, through which the [Page 62] Neckar goes out. This River is passed over on a cover'd Bridge, and you find the City of Heidelberg on the other side, which lies high and low amongst the Trees and Rocks. It is no very fine City, and I know not by what Spirit of Contradiction, they have built it almost all of Wood, whereas they might have had good Stone in abun­dance. The Prince's Palace is upon an ascent, it consists of many Pieces begun and not finished.This City was Storm'd, and utterly laid waste by the French, May 22. 1693. The whole is built of hewn Stone, and there are some parts of this Structure of fine Architecture. They have made fine Gardens amongst the Rocks, but for all the care they have taken to adorn the place, it is still Melancholy and Irregular, if we take all together; and I think it would be praise enough, to call this House a magnificent Hermitage. It being not long since the Dutchess of Orleance, Sister to the last Elector, and Inheritrix of some part of his Goods, caused the Furniture of this House to be taken away, for we found it very naked. All things were sold even to the Wine of the famous Tun, and apparent­ly they had taken that away,The Colossus of Rhodes, saith Mr. Patin, did not hold more Water between its Thighs, than this great Tun Wine in its Intrails. It is, adds he, 31 foot long, and 21 high. had not the Toy been too troublesome. They go up to it by a pair of Stairs of fifty Steps, and above there is a Platform of twenty Foot long, circl'd with a Balcony round about. The Arms of the Elector are placed in the finest part of the Tun. Bacchus in the largest Size, with I know not how many Satyrs, and other Drunkards of that kind, are there also. The Vines, the Grapes, the [Page] [Page] [Page 63] Glasses, and the Leather-Jacks are there to be seen, and make part of its Ornaments in basso releivo. And there are likewise many Jests and Apothegms in High-Dutch, written on this rich Subject.

The misfortunes of the War, of which this Country hath been so often the Stage, have reduced it to a very poor condition, though it be naturally very good. All Re­ligions are tolerated; but the Magistrates are all Protestants. In the great Church of this City, are to be seen many Magnificent Tombs of the Counts Palatines: That of Robert, King of the Romans, and Founder of the University of Heidelberg, is in the Choir of this same Church.

You are not ignorant of the Loss which Heidelberg, sustained in the Year 1622. when its famous Library was transported to the Vatican.

I am, SIR, Yours, &c.

LETTER IX.

SIR,

TWO good Hours on this side Heidel­berg, we past through whole Forests of Firr-trees, and afterwards met with many more. They set fire to them, cut them down and pluck them up as much as they can; but the Nature of the Soil produces them so fast, that they cannot root them out. All this Country is very poor, and Money is so scarce, that about Wiseloc [...] and Sintzheim, a Loaf of Wheaten Bread, weighing eight Pounds, cost but Two-pence. We were four days coming hither from Hei­delberg, and we scarce saw any thing but Firr-trees all the way; I believe there are not more in Carolina: there are I know not how many little Towns, which deserve not to be mentioned.

WINSHEIM, an Imperial Ci­ty. WIMPHEN, an Imperial City. PALEM­BERG. Winsheim is the best of them, and is a Free City as well as Wimphen. All the Inhabi­tants of both are Lutherans. I fansie, a more pleasant Assembly was never seen than that of the Burgo-Masters of the little City of Palemberg. These Sparks were in the same Tavern where we eat, which is the place where they ordinarily meet, when they have any important Affair, to debate; ima­gine you see a dozen or fifteen Peasants [Page 65] with pointed high-crowned Hats loaden with green and yellow Ribbon, with red or blue Wastcoats, and Ruffs or Cravats of black Taffeta: their Hair cut round close below their Ears, and their Beards af­ter the Mode of the Capouchins. The whole Club is tipsie, their Elbows on the Table, every Man with a Glass in his hand, drink­ing without intermission, splitting of Cau­ses, and every one striving to outbawl his Fel­low; their Gestures and Postures are much more diverting, but such as cannot be ex­pressed. In the mean time, it is not at all strange that they should love Drink so much in this Country, since they can have four great Pots of Wine for a Peny; for they know not what a small Measure means. If a Traveller demand a Cup of Wine as he goes by, they bring him a Jack enough to make ten Men drunk.

The Tabacco and the Hops supply the place of Vines, when you approach this Place, and the mountainous Country be­gins to grow plain and lower; so that you may see the great and fair City of Nurem­berg at a good distance.NUREM­BERG, an Imperial City. Before we came at it, we often found our selves on the Banks of the little River of Pegnitz, which runs from it, but serves only to turn the Mills. It might without any difficulty be made navigable, and the Profit that would result from such an Undertaking would quickly recompense the Charge.

But this defect doth not hinder Nurem­berg from being a City of great Trade, very [Page 66] rich and well peopled. It is said to be twice greater than Francfort; and it hath seven other Cities in its Territory, with four hundred and eighty Boroughs and Villages. Its Fortifications are of little esteem in re­spect of those that are now in use: but it enjoys a profound Peace: and being in the Heart of Germany, its Neighbours preserve it while they defend themselves. Should the Emperour be Master of Nuremberg, as he is of his hereditary Countries, it would not be very advantageous to him: for at the bottom, as free as these little States are, they are nevertheless Slaves to the Empe­rour, being, at the same time, Fiefs of the Empire; they are made to contribute Men, Arms, and Money on occasion: and there are a thousand ways found to vex them, if they perform not the things required of them.

It hath 6 Gates, 228 principal streets publick Foun­tains, and 118 Wells, Gal. Gualdo. Nuremberg is a very fair City, though the Structure of its Buildings is somewhat Go­thic, and not at all agreeable to the true Rule of Architecture. The Houses are ge­nerally great, handsome and strongly built. Some are covered with Pictures on the out­sides, and almost all the rest are of very fine hewen Stone. There are many Foun­tains of Brass in sundry places of the City: we saw a very magnificent one, which is yet at the Artificers house, on which there are Brass Statues to the Value of Seventy thousand Crowns, besides other Ornaments. The Streets are broad, clean, and well pa­ved, but it is Pity they are not more strait. [Page 67] The Tradition of the Country will have Nuremberg to be built by Nero, and there is one of the Towers of the Castle which is called the Tower of Nero, but this is but a poor Argument; I rather think that Nori­berga, called also in Latine Mons Noricorum, was derived from Noricum, the old Name of the Country, and the word Berg, which in high Dutch signifies a Mountain.

The Castle is on a high Rock, though the rest of the City be flat enough. The Form of the Castle is wholly irregular, be­cause they have been forced to make it agreeable to the Mass of the mishapen and unequal Rock. They assur'd us that the Well in it was sixteen hundred Foot deep, but none of us would believe them; they also told us that the Chain of the Bucket weighs three thousand Pounds. We saw in one of the Halls of this Castle, four Corinthian Pillars, about fifteen Foot high; which, they say, the Devil brought from Rome, upon a Challenge which a Monk made him. The Story would be too tedious to relate at length. They tell another of a famous Conjurer of the Country, who leap'd on horseback over the Castle Ditches, and shew the Print of the Horses Shoes on the Stones of the Parapet.

The Ornaments which are used, at the Anointing of the Emperour, are kept in the Church of the Hospital.

The Diadem or the Crown, called also theThis is the Crown of Char­lemain, it weighs fourteen pounds. Infula, is of Gold, and covered almost all over with precious Stones. It is not clo­sed [Page 68] as the Imperial Crowns which they or­dinarily paint to us. Suppose that instead of the Fleurets on Ducal Coronets, there are the Plates rounded on the top, which are joined by the sides, and make the Com­pass of the Bonnet. There are seven of them, and that before is the most richly adorned. There is a Cross on the top of all, and a Semicircle supported between the two head Plates behind, which is rais'd a­bove the Bonnet, and joined to the top of the Cross. The Sceptre and Globe are of Gold, and they say that the Sword was brought by an Angel from Heaven. The Robe of Charlemain is of Violet Colour, embroidered with Pearls; the Imperial Cloak is edg'd with Pearls, and strew'd with Eagles of Gold, and a great number of Jewels: there are likewise the Cope, the Stole,Embroider'd with Stones. the Breeches, the Stockins and thecover'd with Plates of Gold. Buskins. They also keep many Reliques in this Church; and amongst others, the Iron Head of blessed St. Longin's Lance. They are not ignorant that the pretended Head of this Lance is to be seen in above ten other places of the World; but, say they, theirsLancea Do­mini reperta est in Antio­chia à quidam rustico cui be­atus Andreas & locum os­tendit. Qui­dam cum ea totum exerci­tum letificavit, W. Roolwink. came from Antioch; it was St. An­drew who found it; one Man with it dis­comfited a whole Army: it was the thing of the World which Charlemain loved most. The other Lances are Counterfeits, and this is the true one: they make much of it as a precious Memorial, if they do not worship it as a Relique.

[Page 69]Their Lance puts me in mind of their Arsenal, which is one of the most renow­ned in Germany. In the Year 1453, Maho­met II. besie­ged Constanti­nople, and bat­tered it with many Pieces of Cannon of Four hundred pound Ball, there was one amongst the rest so heavy, that there were twenty Yoke of Oxen to draw it. Calvisius. There are two great Halls in it, each of two hundred and fifty paces long, and well replenished with Arms. We counted three hundred Pieces of Cannon; but, to speak truth, the greatest part of the other Arms savour of Antiquity; Mus­quets and Harquebuses, Casks and Cuiras­ses in great Number: fine Hangings for Arsenals, and this is all. There are many of those great Cannons of a monstrous Bore, which they call Mermaids and Basilisks; and the biggest of these Pieces carries a three hundred pound Ball.

We also saw the Library; it is in a Cloy­ster which formerly belonged to the Domi­nicans, and contains, as they tell you, twen­ty thousand Volumes. This was collected out of the Ruines of many Convents, in the Time of the Reformation. The most ancient Manuscript is of nine hundred Years; it is a Copy of the Gospels with the Prayers and Hymns formerly used in the Greek Church. The Character is very different from that now in use.It is a Treatise of Predestina­tion. I observed a Book which was printed at Spire, in the Year 1446. but there might be an Errour in the Cyphers, for they shewed us another of the Impression of Faustus at Mentz, in 1459. at the End whereof there is an Ad­vertisement, by which it is said, That this Book was not written by the Hand, but was printed by an admirable Secret newly invented. 'Tis probable that this was the first Impressi­on [Page 70] which was made at Mentz: and if it be so, there is no ground to suppose that another Book was printed at Spire, thirteen Years before: nor had Faustus any reason to boast so much of his new Secret. I have heard that there is another Impression of Duran­dus's Officiale at Basil, printed by Faustus in the same Year 1549.

They keep in this Library many Rarities, and curious Antiquities, but they are not comparable to those that are in the Cabinet of Mr. Viati. We saw it in a great Chamber quite fill'd with divers Arms of all Coun­tries, all Uses, and all Fashions. It is scarce to be conceived how a single Man, and he a private Person, who hath not the Means of a Prince or a very great Lord, could heap together so many things; for the Number is very great, and, I believe, brought from all the four Quarters of the World. He shew­ed us the Experiment of a Wind-Gun, which is a very pretty, but a most destru­ctive Invention, because with this Engine great Mischiefs may be done a far off, and without any Noise. From this Chamber you may go into another, where there are rare Pictures, Medals, curious Works anci­ent and modern, Idols, Shells, Plants, Mi­nerals, and other natural Productions.

The Town-House is very great, and has a very beautiful and well-proportion'd Front, but it wants a Court before it. When we went from thence, our Friends brought us to the City Cellar, which is two hundred and fifty Paces long, and contains, as they [Page 71] tell us, Twenty thousand Aums of Wine, that is to say, Twenty thousand middle­siz'd Tuns. We must allow it to be a very fair Cellar: but the truth is, such Peo­ple as we, know not how to enjoy all the Pleasures of it.

The Germans are, you know,Germanorum vivere bibere est. strange Drinkers; but there are no People in the World more obliging, more civil, or more officious, and yet they have terrible Cu­stoms as to the Point of Drinking. Every thing is done there by drinking, and they drink in all they do. There is not time given to speak three Words in a Visit, but presently comes the Collation, or at least some large Jacks of Wine, with a Plate full of Crusts of Bread hash'd with Pepper and Salt, a fatal Preparative for puny Topers. But before we proceed I must give you an account of those sacred and inviolable Laws that are afterwards to be observ'd. Every Draught must be a Health, and assoon as you have emptied your Glass, you must present it full to him whose Health you drunk. You must never refuse the Glass which is presented, and you must drink it off to the last drop. Do but re­flect a little on these Customs, and see how it is possible to leave off drinking: And in­deed they never make an end,The Duke of Rohan sai h in his Voyage, that the Germans have succeeded better than all the Mathematicians of the World in finding out the perpetual Motion, by the continual Agitation of their Cups. but ca­rouse in a perpetual Round: to drink in Germany is to drink eternally. Pardon my Digression, and judge of our troublesome [Page 72] Entertainment in the Cellar. You must do penance there for some time, and at last hide your self behind the Casks, steal away and make your escape.

You must further know, that the Glasses are as much respected in this Country as the Wine is beloved. They place them all en Parade. The greatest part of the Cham­bers are wainscotted, even to two thirds of the Walls, and the Glasses are ranged all about, upon the Cornish of the Wain­scot, like Pipes of Organs. They begin with the Little, and end with the Great ones; and these Great ones are always us'd, and must be empty'd at a draught, when there is any Health of Importance. At going out of the Cellar we went to Consort, where we hoped we should do nothing but sing, but the Bread, the Pepper, the Salt, and the Wine followed in such a­bundance, that an Air was no sooner finish­ed, but the whole Company rose up to drink.

We saw yesterday in the Evening some part of the Celebration of a Wedding. The future Husband accompanied with a long Train of his Relations came first to the Church. He marched on foot from a house which was not two hundred Paces distant, and to which he came in a Coach. His Bride, who was in the same place, fol­lowed a while after, being also attended by a great Number of her Friends. Both of them being got into the Church, the Bridegroom sits with his Company on one side, and the Bride on the other, directly [Page] [Page]

Divers Habits of the Women at Nuremberg

Vol. 1. P. 73.

[Page] [Page 73] opposite to him; over each of their Heads [...]gainst the Wall was a Figure of Death. They both approach'd to the Minister, who attended them in the midst of the Choir: [...]nd after he had performed his Office, four or five Trumpets, which were on the Top of the Steeple, sounded a great many Levets, and the new-married Couple returned in the manner they came thither.

The Husband was in Black Cloaths, with a Cloak over-laid with Lace, a great Ruff, and a little Crown of Gold Plate-Lace a­bove his Peruke. But the Wife's Dress will be a little more difficult to describe. The best Account I can give you of it, is to tell you, That in framing to your self an Idea of her Head-Tire, you must fansie a Mixture of Plate-Wire gilded, like a Bob-Peruke, half a Foot higher than her Fore­head, and very much frizzed and swelled out on the Sides. This was ordered after such a manner, that in all the Thickness of this Bush there was no more space or di­stance between the Threads, than was suffi­cient to fasten to them an infinite Number of little Plates of Gold, round, polished and shining, which hung both within and without, and waved with the least Motion. Her Habit was Black, with long Skirts re­sembling the Hongrelines which were not ve­ry long since used in France. The Body of this little Cassock, which was cut very short, had a Gold Lace over all the Seams. The Skirts were full of little close Knots of black Sattin Ribbon, and the [Page 74] streight Cuffs fell just on the Fist. Over this she had a Neck-band of Fine Antique Lace, cut before like a Man's Band, and ending in a Point behind, which reached down to the middle of the Back. She had besides a great Gold Chain on her Shoulders, just like the Collar of some Order, and such another Chain for her Girdle. Her Pet­ticoat was short enough, and adorn'd below with Gold Fringe and Black Bone-Lace. We had the Pleasure to see this Fair one dance with a Senatour in a great Ruff; and I believe at Japan there could not be found Customs more different from ours, than those which we observed at this Feast. I should never make an End if I should un­dertake to describe all the other Habits. But, as fantastical as all these Dresses might seem at first view, one might be easily accustom'd to them, and every Habit appears hand­som and becoming, when the Persons that wear them are of themselves beautiful and agreeable.

There are not more industrious People in the World than the Artists of Nuremberg; some attribute to them the invention ofSome say that a Monk called Ber­thold Schwartz was the inventor. Others believe that it was one named Bertrand the Black of Chioggia. But Tavernier, and many other Travellers, pretend that this Invention came from China, as well as that of Printing. Luke de la Porta, is of the same Opinion. He adds, that the Augustins brought the use of both of them into Europe. Fire-Arms, as well as that of Cannon-Powder. Others affirm that this Powder was invented at Chioggia, in the State of Ve­nice; and there are some who pretend that it came from Denmark. All Europe is fill'd [Page 75] with the little Curiosities of Nuremberg. There are some of Wood, of Ivory, of A­labaster, and even of Paper and Starch. Their Houses are large and neat, and I be­lieve there is not a Ceiling in all the City, which is not accompanied with an under­setting of very fine Joyner's-Work. I can­not express the Particular Kindness they have for Horns; for all their Houses are full of them. They are every where in­stead of Pictures, and other curious things. You often see in the finest Chamber, a Stag's, or Bull's Head, with a magnificent Pair of Horns hanging on the Ceiling, without any other Design but for Orna­ment.

We were but poorly treated on all the Road from Heidelberg, and Straw was com­monly our Bed. But we made our selves amends at Nuremberg, where the Houses of Entertainment have very good Accommo­dations. They serv'd us every Day with late Fruits, which I never saw any where else. We are here at the end of November, and commonly eat very good Fish.

St. Sebald is the principal Church where they show a Wooden Crucifix which passeth for a Master-piece. The Church of St. Laurence, is the biggest of all. These are both Gothick, but the last hath Eight Doors, which is look d upon as a singularity. The great Church-yard is worth the seeing: There are in it above Three Thousand Tombs with Epitaphs, and Coats of Arms wrought in Brass. No Jews are suffer'd to [Page 76] live in the City, because they formerly Poy­soned the Fountains. They reside in a Vil­lage not far off, and may, for a small piece of Money,The Author of the State of the Empire re­lates, that the Burghers of Nuremberg have a singular and extraordi­nary Privi­ledge to drown their Children. come into the City, provided they depart the same day. The Roman Ca­tholicks are but few in number, and they have but half a Church, where they per­form their Service after the Lutherans are gone out. Those who are called Calvinists, go a League from the City into the Mar­quisate of Onspach, and their Children are Baptized by the Lutherans, as at Francfort.

We are preparing for our departure to morrow Morning, to continue our way to Ausbourg. I will also continue to write to you from thence, and will omit no oppor­tunity to show how much I am,

SIR,
Yours, &c.

LETTER X.

SIR,

INGOL­STADT.BEtween Nuremberg and Ingolstadt, the Ways are very bad and full of Forests; but when you come near this City, you find a Champion Country, excellently well till'd. Ingoldstadt is seated on the Danube, in the Dutchy of Bavaria, of which it is the [Page 77] strongest place. It is indifferently large. The most part of the Houses are painted or whited without. The Streets are broad, straight, and well pav'd: And the whole City seemed pleasant enough, though it be poor and ill Peopled. They boast much of the Arsenal, but you must be put to trouble to obtain liberty to see it, so that we would not take the pains. I know very well that these inaccessible Arsenals are com­monly the worst provided for; if they were well filled and furnished, they would make a publick Show of them, rather than hide them. But they excuse themselves upon some secret Reasons, when they have no­thing to show but Cross-Bows and rusty Firelocks. Nothing is more easily obtain'd, than the sight of the Arsenals of France, and it is as true, that nothing is finer and in better order.

I observ'd at Ingolstadt, as in most of the other Cities of Germany, that every where near the Fountains there are Casks of Wood or Brass, mounted on little Car­riages with four Wheels, which serve to carry Water when any Fire happens. And this is very wisely contriv'd; But they have another Custom throughout all this Coun­try, which we thought much more trouble­some than useful. These are certain Singers in the Night, who trot about every hour: They gave notice to beware of Fire, and afterwards exhort us to sleep quietly, with­out considering that their horrid Musick keeps all the City awake.

[Page 78] NEW­BOURG.We came from Ingolstadt to Newbourg, which is a very little City, and without Fortifications. It stands on the right Bank of the Danube, which is grown broad and rapid, tho' at this place, it be very far di­stant from its main strength. We past it over a Bridge to go up into the City, at our entry we had a view of the Castle, which is seated on a Rock. Though the outsides are with­out Ornaments, yet they make a handsome appearance. Within there are great Ap­partments, even with the Ground, which are very convenient. But the Elector Pa­latine, to whom this Dutchy of Newbourg belongs, was constrain'd to send all the Furniture of this Castle to that of Heidel­berg, this last being stripp'd, as I have al­ready told you: There remains only one Cabinet, which is full of rare Pictures and other Curiosities, which we had not time to examine particularly. I remember to have observed a round piece of very hard Stone, which weighs four pound, and was found in the Body of a Horse: I believe we might justly call this Stone a kind of Bezoar, since according to the report of Tavernier, the Bezoar is found in the Paunches of Cows and Apes, as well as in those of Goats.

The Church of the Jesuits is the fairest in the City, but there is a pleasant thing to be seen in that of St. Peter, Mark d'Aviano, the Capouchin, famous for the Miracles which are attributed to him, was at Newbourg, about five Years since. As he went into [Page 79] St. Peter's Church, he perceiv'd in a corner an old Nostradame of Wood, which was all mangl'd, and covered over with Dust. The zealous Father could not without Grief be­hold our Lady in so unbecoming a condi­tion. He prostrated himself before her, and began to thump his Breast, and to break out into Lamentations. As he was in the midst of his Groans, he suddenly cry'd out. A Miracle! and protested that the good Lady had mov'd her Eyes, and look'd on him. There were then many old Women in the Church, who ran to­gether at the cries of the Capouchin, and with joy embraced the occasion that they were able to say, that they had been witnesses to a Miracle: There was no need of many Arguments to convince them, for they all cried out with the Capouchin, that our Lady had look'd upon him: Immediately he went out with them, and fill'd all the City with the noise of the pretended Miracle. He was supported by the great ones, and after certain Preambles, which 'tis needless to relate, they went to St. Peter's in Pro­cession: They cleaned the Statue, took the Sacrament off the great Altar which was dedicated to it, dress'd our Lady in a splendid Habit, and plac'd her on that Al­tar, where she works Miracles by Millions. The Princes and the People load her with Presents, and People come from all parts in Pilgrimage to her.

[Page 80] AUSBOURG, an Imperial City. Galeazzo Gualdo Pr. pretends that it was built presently after the Deluge.The whole Country is very agreeable and extraordinarily good, between Newbourg and Ausbourg, except when you draw near to this last City, where the Lands are bog­gy and barren. Those of Ausbourg pretend that their City is the fairest of all Germany; they say also that it is greater than Nu­remberg, but confess that it is not so well Peopled. If the Streets be broader and straiter, it is certain, that generally the Houses are not so fine; they are commonly plaster'd and whited without, or adorn'd with Pictures, I saw but very few of hewn Stone. All the floors of the Chambers are pav'd with a certain yellowish Marble which comes from Tirol; and the Ceilings are either of Joyners-work, with Compartiments, or of a certain Cement, which polishes very well, and is very durable. But there is one great Irregularity in all their manner of Building. The greatest part of their Chambers are form'd into Figures, which have no name, and are also spoiled by the ill placing of the Stairs, which take away great Corners of them.

Ausbourg is the Capital City of Suabia. You know Augustus sent a Colony thither, after he had much enlarg'd and embellish'd it: It was called, Augusta Vindelicorum, to distinguish it from Augusta Treverorum, Au­gusta Taurinorum, and other Cities which likewise bore the name of Augusta. I ob­served somewhere among the Paintings of the Houses, the Anagram of Augusta Vin­delicorum, which is Orta Deâ vulgum vincis. The People of this Country were call'd [Page 81] Vindelici, because they Inhabited about the Rivers ofPergis ad Augustam quam Vindo, Licús; (que) fluentat. Respicit & latè fluvios Vindón (que) Licúm (que)Miscentes undas, & nomina littoris, undeAntiquam gentem, Populúmque, Urbémque, vocaruntVindelicam. Ricchardus. Vindo and Licus, which are at this day called Werda and Leck, and between which the City of Ausbourg is seated. It hath been pillag'd so often, particularly in the time of Attila, that there are scarcely any remains of its Antiquities to be found. It is I know not how long since, they dug out a Pillar five or six Foot high, over which was the figure of a Pine-Apple. There were also found some Medals of Augustus, on the Reverse of which the like Pillar is to be seen. As it was the usual Custom, to mark out by some bounds, the increase of the Empire, on the Frontiers of the Conquer'd Countries, and to joyn to those limits some representations of the things which were most common in the new Pro­vinces: It is very probable, that this was the use of the Pillar I just now mention'd, and of the Pine-Apple which is over it; for all this part of Germany is full of Pines and Firr-Trees. There is also a great deal of appearance, that for this reason Ausbourg bears a Pine-Apple in its Arms.

Though there be hardly any thing good or regular in the Fortifications of this Town, yet hath it sometimes sustain'd very rude Assaults with much vigour. It is now [Page 82] Forty three Years, since the Swedes and French besieged it, and reduced it to Famine, without being able to take it. It is an Im­perial City, and its Senate are half Luthe­rans, and half Roman Catholicks: But this Senate is not the sole Master of the State; five or six Sovereigns share it among them. A good part belongs to the Bishop: Almost all the Territory is his Demesne; and he hath his Palace in the City, though he resides at Dillengen, where also the University is. You know that all the Bishops of the Em­pire are Temporal Princes in their Diocesses, except those of the Hereditary Countries of the House of Austria.

The Roman Catholicks here make publick Processions, and carry the Host publickly. The Lutherans commonly pull off their Hats when they cannot avoid meeting the Host.

They do all they can possibly, to avoid giving scandal to either Party. The Poor of both Religions are put into the same Hospitals, and are there assisted by their own Ministers without any opposition.

The Jews have a separate place in the City; they are obliged to pay, when they resort thither, a Florin per hour, which is a piece of Money worth about three Shil­lings English.

The Town-House is a great four-square Building, of very fair hewn Stone. The Portal is of Marble, and almost all the Rooms are Wainscoted and Ciel'd with Ash of Poland, which is very fine. The great Hall is extreamly Magnificent. It is [Page 83] one hundred and ten foot long, fifty eight broad, and fifty two foot high; the Pave­ment is of green Marble. The Walls are covered with Paintings, between which there are many Devices and Emblems, which relate to the Government; but the Roof excells all the rest in Beauty. It con­sists of Compartments, the Squares and Pannels of which are inriched with gilded Sculptures, and filled with Pictures and o­ther Ornaments. And this is all so well ordered and performed, that it deserves a particular Observation.

The Arsenal is very great: The two Halls below are full of Cannon, of which the greatest part are of Brass. There is a Culverin of Leather twenty six foot long, which is a six Pounder. The upper Stories are filled with good Arms.

During the Wars of the Neighbouring Princes, in this last Age, the People of Ausbourg were careful to shut the Gates of the City early at Nights, which Custom was troublesome to Strangers, as well as to themselves. Wherefore they invented a kind of secret Gate, by which there was Passage to come in, without fear of surprize or other danger. This Gate remains still with all its Locks and Machines, and is a thing very singular. I have drawn a design of it, which I could shew you, but the description would at present be too difficult and tedious.

The Trade of Ausbourg decay'd, as that of Holland increas'd. Almost all Merchan­dizes [Page 84] which come from the Mediterranean, were formerly Landed at Venice, and from thence brought to Ausbourg, from which place they were dispers'd through all Ger­many. But Holland hath taken away all, and distributes all: And Ausbourg suffers as well as Venice, Milan, Antwerp, and an infi­nite number of other Cities, which are at present as Poor as they were formerly Rich.

Three Years after Gustavus the Great had made himself Master of Ausbourg, it was retaken by the Duke of Bavaria, who took away all the Churches from the Lutherans; in which case they remained from the Year Thirty five, till Forty eight, at which time all things were restor'd by the Peace of Munster. During which interval, the Lutherans had no liberty to assemble but in a College, from the Window of which they Preached to the People in the Court-yard. This College is still in their Possession; and I have seen a long Inscription, which is Graved under the Window, and begins thus: Praeclusis omnibus Evangelicorum tem­plis, coelum tamen ipsis patuit, &c. All the Churches of the Professors of the Gospel being shut, Heaven was yet open to them, &c.

You may see in the Bishop's Palace, the Chamber where the famous Confession of Ausbourg, wasIn the Year 1540. by Me­lancthon and Luther; Me­lancthon drew it up. presented to the Emperour Charles V. From thence we went to the Cathedral, where there is a Gate of Brass, over which many places of the Sacred Hi­story are represented in basso relievo, and they [Page 85] made us observe in the History of the Creation, that it was the Virgin Mary who created Eve, and form'd her out of one of Adam's Ribbs.

They are no less ingenious at Ausbourg, than at Nuremberg, and even they excel par­ticularly in Clock and Goldsmiths-work, and in works in Ivory. We saw several Clocks which were valued at fifteen or twenty thousand Crowns, they are plac'd in cases that are very richly wrought. And besides what relates to the motion of the Stars, and the Division of the Times and Seasons, they adorn them with many other things, which would be both pleasant and profitable, were they a little more lasting.

Their way of turning in Ivory is very curious, and deserves to be taken notice of with admiration. But one of the rarest Works which I saw here, I shall give you an account of: They are Glasses made hol­low and well shaped, with a Ring made of the same piece in turning, which plays be­tween the bottom and the bowl of the Glass, without possibility of taking off. There are an hundred with their Rings in a grain of Pepper of an ordinary size.These Glasses are in my hands. I often examined this little Miracle of Art, and observed the stripes and traces of the Tool with which they are turned, so that I found no secret in it, but that it was the pure work of the Eyes and the Hand.

They have here another very pleasant Bauble, which are Fleas fastned by the Neck with Chains of Steel. This Chain is [Page 86] so fine, that though it be near a Span long, the Flea will lift it up when it leaps. The Animal, Chain and all is sold for Ten Pence.

The variety of Habits, and difference of their Colours, is yet greater here than at Nuremberg. This is an Affair regulated by the Policy of the Magistrates, and you may know the Quality and Religion of the greatest part of the People, by the difference of their Cloaths. I will only represent to you the manner after which the Widow of a Roman Catholick Merchant wears Mourn­ing for her Husband. She hath a Christning Kercher, well whited and starched, with Wings and Cornets ordinary for this Dress, a black Petticoat, and a black Cloak, made like that of a Man, which comes to her Knees. A great white Veil behind, which hangs at the tail of the Kercher, down to her Heels, enlarging it self by degrees; a piece of the same Linnen with the Kercher, four foot long, and at least two broad, which is very much starched and stretched on a square of Wire-thred, fastned by the middle of one of its ends, just below the Lips, and covers all the fore part of the Body.

They have turned a little branch of the River Leck, and made it pass through the Town; the Waters are so clear and good, that they need seek for no other; there are four or five Towers upon this Arm of the River; on the tops of which they have made Fish-Ponds, and the Mills which are below cause Pumps to play, which lift up [Page] [Page]

Habits of the Women at Ausburgh.

Vol. 1. P. 86.

A Country Wife

A Pesant

A Tradesman's Wife in mourning

A Burgher's Daughter

A Burghers Wife in mourning

A Doctors Wife

A Woman in mourning

[Page] [Page 87] the Water, and fill those Ponds or Cisterns, so that it is distributed throughout all the City. I ought not to forget to mention the Fountains of Ausbourg, which are one of its principal Ornaments. There are many of them which are almost as magni­ficent as the fine Fountain at Nuremberg.

I am, SIR, Yours, &c.

LETTER XI.

SIR,

I Observed at my going out of Ausbourg, in many Gardens, that they cover all their Vines and Fig-Trees, carefully with Straw or Mats, to preserve them from the Frost; the Cold being sharper in this Coun­try than in England, where we are not obliged to make use of these Precautions, though we lie nearer the North. It is cer­tainly true, that the divers degrees of Heat and Cold, are not always proportion'd to the diversity of Climates: There are ter­rible Winters in Canada in the midst of the temperate Zone, whilst every where else, under the same Climate, they enjoy a sweet and pleasant Air.

[Page 88] MUNICH.The Country is level enough between Ausbourg and Munich, but it is not very good; it is every where a mixture of Wood and Fields, and Firr-Trees. Munich is not above half so big as Ausbourg. It is a fine City, but ill fortified, and has no Trade; and without doubt little notice would be taken of this place, if the Elector's Re­sidence were not there, and if that Prince's Palace were not extraordinarily Magnifi­cent. Almost all the Houses of the City are painted on the out-side, but instead of Painting in Fresco or in Oyl, they make use of a kind of bad Plaister, which is liable to all the Injuries of the Weather: It wears off quickly, and rises hollow in many places, which maims all the Figures, and renders them very ugly.

We had heard some Persons boast so much of the Jesuits Library, that it was the first thing we would see when we came to Munich; but it did not answer our Ex­pectations. For, besides that, it is neither very good, nor well conditioned; they or­dered a Brother Cut-Cabbage, who knew better what belong'd to the Kitchin than to Books, to shew it us. I confess I could not believe such gross Ignorance could lurk un­der the Habit of one who call'd himself a Jesuite. It was absolutely impossible for us to make him understand, what those Au­thors were whom we called the Fathers. He presently named all the Fathers of his Convent, to try if he could find out whom we looked for. And at last, with a scow­ling [Page 89] look, he pray'd us to talk of something else. This is all I can tell you of the Li­brary, and the Library-keeper, or at least of his Deputy: For it is not very probable that all the rest of this Society are of the same Stamp. However, they carry four fair and high Corners in their Caps; and their House may be said to be a stately Palace. Their Church is also extreamly fine; it is of but one Body, very high, large, and strongly roofed; the Vestry is full of Riches, and they want no Reliques: They shewed us a Joynt as big as that of an Elephant, or some huge Animal; and this great Bone, as we were inform'd, is in great veneration with them, as being one of the Joynts of great St. Christopher's Back-Bone.

Leaving the Church of the Jesuites, we went to that of the Augustines, where are Pictures of great value.

We went thence to the Cajetans, who have a great and fair Church. I observ'd in a Map of Munich, that this City bears a Monk for its Arms,This City was built in the Year 962. by Duke Henry. Otho inclosed it with Walls, in 1157. and that it is called Mo­nacum, or Monachium, because there was a Monastery on the place where it is built. We also went to see in the Church of No­stre Dame, the Tomb of the Emperor Louis IV. This Sepulchre is adorn'd with many fine Marble and Brass Figures. Having advan­ced Ten or Twelve Steps from the entrance of the great Door of this Church, you be­hold one of the Stones of the Pavement, on which is a double Cross; and it hath been observ'd, that when you stand up­right [Page 90] in this Place, the Pillars of the Church are so placed, that you cannot see one of the Windows, though they are very many. All that come to Worship in those Chur­ches have a lighted Wax-Candle in their Hands; and that Candle is bigger or lesser, according to the Quality of the Saint, or their Devotion.

There is an ample and ex­act Description of this Palace written in Ita­lian by the Marquiss Ran. Pallavicino. This Royal House contains, saith he, Ele­ven Courts, Twenty great Halls, Nine­teen Galleries, Two Thousand Six Hundred great Glass Windows, Six Chapels, Six­teen great Kitchens, and Twelve large Cellars, Forty vast Apart­ments, which are even with­out one lower than the other, and in which you may distin­guish Three Hundred great Chambers, richly Painted, Wainscoated, Paved, Furnish­ed, &c.The out-side of the Elector's Palace is not suitable to the Magnificence within; and though the greatest part of its Apartments are well contriv'd, it may be said that they are all irregular: The reason is, that this great Mass of Building was not erected at the same time, every one wrought accord­ing to the Fancy of his Time, or his own private Judgment; and that hath been the cause of the dis-proportionableness of its Parts: But if it be taken altogether, it may certainly pass for a very beautiful Structure. You must not expect that I should give you an ample Description of a Place that is so vast, and so full of Rarities. I tell you in general, that all sorts of Beauties and Ri­ches are found there in abundance. The great Hall of the Emperour's Apartment is One Hundred and Eighteen Foot in length, and Fifty Two Feet in breadth. We may justly say, that it is in every respect Mag­nificent. All its Pictures are highly esteem­ed: They are Histories, the Sacred on one side, and the Prophane on the other; there are Latine Verses to every History. I will [Page 91] set down the Distick for Susanna, because I think it one of the best:

Casta Susanna placet, Lucretia cede Susannae;
Tu post, illa mori maluit ante scelus.

The Inscri­ption over the Door runs thus: D. O. M. ad cultum virgi­num Principis salutatae gene­tricis genito­ris sui, jam geniti, gig­nendi sacrum dicatum.The little Chapel which is in the A­partment of the Electress, is full of precious things: There is nothing but Gold, Pearls, and Gems of all Fashions. They keep a a great many Reliques there, among which I took notice of a piece of Gold Mohair, which, they say, was part of one of the Virgin's Robes.

The Parlour of Perspectives is one of the finest things of this Palace: But the Hall ofThe greatest part of these Antiquities were brought from Rome. Antiquities is famous all the World o­ver. I counted One Hundred Fourscore and Twelve Busts, and above Four Hun­dred other Pieces: All these are choice and rare, for the Beauty of their Work­manship, as well as their Antiquity. The greatest part of the Furniture of the Pa­lace is very rich; and they affirm that there are Eight Millions of Crowns-worth of Ta­pistry in the Wardrobe,The Sum per­haps is a little too big. besides what is in ordinary use. But the Treasury infinitely exceeds all the rest. There are many Ser­vices of Vessels of Gold, and many other precious Vessels. A prodigious quantity of great Pearls, Diamonds, Rubies, and other oriental Stones of exquisite Beauties; and an infinite number of excellent Pi­ctures, curious Works, Medals, and other Rarities. I cannot forget the Cherry-stone, [Page 92] upon which you may distinctly perceive the graving of One Hundred and Forty Heads; nor the Boat of Palm-Wood turn­ed into Stone, on which they have inscri­bed these two Verses:

Palma fui coepi lapidescere, cymbala nunc sum
Si non Neptunus navita Bacchus erit.

Marble is to be found every where in this Palace, yet we must not cheat our selves; for they have the secret with a cer­tain Composition to make it; which be­comes so hard, and polishes so well, that those who are not very skilfull, take it for true Marble.

They have made diversWalks under Ground. Galleries of Communication, which cross the Streets and Houses, by which they can go pri­vately from the Palace to all the Churches and Convents of the City.

I will say nothing of the Arsenal, be­cause they have carried the Cannon, and most of the best Arms, into Hungary. We saw there the Tent of the Grand Vizier, which was taken in the last Battel, in which the Elector did so remarkably signa­lize his Valour. This Tent was vastly great, but no way fine: It is made of Cot­ton-Cloth printed, with the Strings, as they seem to me, of fine Sattin, cover'd with Silk Brede, and the Lozenges of the same, placed from one place to another, between the Strings.

[Page 93]I cannot tell you why this Country is not proper for Vines; there are none in it, and their ordinary Drink is Beer.

They know no other Religion here but that of Rome: And they look upon Men as Wolves, that are not of that Profession. Their principal Devotion is for the Virgin: She is painted on all their Houses; every place is full of her Chapels and Oratories, and they bestow Divine Titles on her.

I am, SIR, Yours, &c.

LETTER XII.

SIR,

AFter we had for some time follow'd the Banks of the Iser, which is the River of Munich, we entred into a Forest; at our coming out of which, we saw di­stinctly the beginning of the Alps: Their Snowy tops are mingled with the Clouds, and resemble very much the swelling and foaming Waves of a tempestuous and raging Sea. If the Courage of those has been ad­mir'd, who first expos'd themselves to the Fury of that Element, here is matter e­nough of Astonishment, that any one [Page 94] should venture himself among the Cavities of such frightful Mountains.

The same Day we departed from Mu­nich, we came to a Village call'd Lagrem, which is at the Foot of the Mountains, and near to a little Lake of very fresh Wa­ter; there they gave us Fish, whose Names we knew not. The first thing our Host treat­ed us with, was a Chafing-Dish full of In­cence, with which he perfum'd our Cham­bers; and truly we found more neatness in this little solitary Habitation, than in many great Cities in our Journey. After we had coasted the Mountains about Two Hours, we entred there, and for a long time mounted amongst the Rocks, Firr-Trees, and Snow. Nothing is more wild and dis­mal than these places. Sometimes you find some Fisher-men's Cottages, on the Banks of two or three Lakes, which are between the Mountains: But there is no sign of any till'd Land; and probably a little Goat's Cheese, with some Fish, is the principal Diet of these poor People. Their Cabins are made of the Roots of Firr-Trees, well joined together, and their Boats are fram'd of the same Trees hollow'd. They gave us Goats Flesh, and great Salmon-Trouts in the Village of Mittenwald, which is Three Leagues farther. This Village is in the middle of a pleasant Plain, and the Rocks which environ it are extraordinary high. Our Host shew'd us some Balls, or brown Masses, about the bigness of a Hen's Egg, or less, which are a kind of soft and im­perfect [Page 95] Bezoar, and are commonly found in those Parts, in the Stomachs of the Goats. The good Man assured us of their great Vir­tues, and that he often sold them to Travel­lers. He valued them at Ten Crowns a-piece; and I believe we should have done him a Courtesie, if we had taken Five or Six which he had, at that price.

A little farther we met a very pleasant Troop of Beggars; when they perceiv'd us at a good distance, one of them, who car­ried a Tree loaden with Red Fruits, plant­ed it in the middle of the Way, and sate down by the side of it; a little Demi-Devil in the shape of a Crocodile, fastened himself to the Tree, and a Girl with long and dishe­vel'd Hair, approach'd to it; an old Fellow cloath'd in Black, with a Peruke and Beard of Moss, stood at a little distance, with a young Boy clad in White, who held a Sword. When they thought we were near enough, the little Divel open'd the Come­dy with a Balderdash Song, and we could without difficulty Divine, that all was to re­present the History of the Fall. One of us as he passed by the Old Man, ask'd him, since he kept at a distance from them, whe­ther he was of the Company; the poor Mortal answer'd coldly, That he was God the Father, and that if we would stay a lit­tle, we should see him act his part, with his little Dagger-carrier, which was St. Michael the Arch-Angel. Behold the Product of the re­presentations which they make of the Deity!

A quarter of an Hour after this fine Ren­counter, we pass'd by the Fort of Chernitz, [Page 96] which is built between two inaccessible Rocks, and which separates the County of Tirol from the Bishoprick of Freisinghen. This Bishoprick is in Bavaria; and Tirol is one of the Emperor's Hereditary Provinces. We came very late to the Village of Seefeld, after we had made many Turnings and Windings among the Mountains. There is a Convent of Augustines in this Village, and you may see in their Church two or three pretended Mi­racles, with which they make no small noise.

They tell of a certain Gentleman, na­med Milser, who lived at the Castle of Schlosberg, about a quarter of a League from thence; and was very much dreaded in this Village, that he was so vain as to desire to communicate with the great Host, which is only for the use of the Clergy: They endeavour'd to perswade him out of this Fancy, but all in vain. When they had put the Host into his Mouth, it cast out, as they say, a Flood of Blood, and at the same time the Legs of the Communi­cant sunk into the Pavement up to the Knees: He would have supported himself on the Altar, but the Stone gave way, and softned under his Hand, and the poor mi­serable Man had been swallow'd alive, if he had not been retriev'd by a speedy Repentance. The Augustines shew this pre­tended Host, chewed, and bloody, in a Repository of Glass. They shew also the print of a Hand on one of the Stones of the Altar, and a Hole in the Pavement of the Church near the same Altar, as of two Legs sunk into soft Ground. They say [Page 97] that this Host worketh Miracles; and they find it not inconvenient to their Con­vent.

Two good Leagues on this side Seefeld, we began to descend, and three quarters of an Hour afterwards, we arriv'd in a deep Val­ley, which was at least a Mile in breadth. The River Inn glides pleasantly along; and waters many not unhandsome Villages. We turn'd to the left in this Valley, and fol­low'd always the Foot of the Mountain. And a little League farther, they made us observe a straight and cragged Rock, which they said was above an Hundred Fathom high, and was call'd The Emperor's Rock. About three quarters of the height of this Rock, there was a Nich dug,See Stephen Pegius in his Hercules Pro­dicius. in which there was a Crucifix, and a Statue on each side of it. They say that Maximilian I. being in chase of a wild Goat, alighted just at this place from the top of the Rock, which joins to the Mountains behind; and that the Emperour not daring to remount his Horse, was feign to have recourse to Ma­chines to get down.

Inspruck is but Two short Hours beyond the middle of the Valley,INSPRUCK. upon the River Inn: You pass this River over a Bridge be­fore you enter the City; and it is therefore called Inspruck, that Word having the same signification in High-Dutch, as Aenipons, or Aenipontum in Latin.

There are very fine Houses at Inspruck, but the manner after which they cover them, seems at first to be troublesome to [Page 98] those who are not acquainted with them; for not only the Roofs are flat, but instead of the Rafters rising to a Point, they are reversed, and the Rain falls into the middle of the Roof.

After the Duke of Lorrain had the mis­fortune to lose his Estates, the Emperour gave him the Possession of Tirol; and the Residence of this Prince was at Inspruck, in the Palace which was formerly the Arch-Duke's. This Palace hath many Conveni­encies, and is of a sufficient extent, but it was built at several times, and hath neither Beauty nor Regularity.

They show'd us here one thing singular, of which I will endeavour to give you the most certain Account I could any way learn; though all my Industry to that pur­pose signify'd but little. The House which they call the Chancery, is on the Place in the midst of the City. The Portrait of this House is like a little Porch without, to a Roof which is supported by the Wall of the House; and they assure us that this Roof is cover'd with Plates of Gold. This is what they told us of it. A Rebellion, and almost general Sedition being rais'd a­gainst an Arch-Duke call'd Frederick, whom they particularize no otherwise; that Prince was forc'd to hide himself, but not being willing to go far off, that he might be ready to Act, in case his Affairs should be in a bet­ter Posture; he engag'd himself, say they, to serve a Miller in a Village of the neighbour­ing Mountain. In effect, the Troubles [Page 99] happen'd to be appeas'd, and Frederick was recall'd. But there was still an Evil Spi­rit amongst some of them, that jeer'd him, and gave him the Nick-name of Empty Purse; to shew therefore that he was not so poor as those People imagin'd, he affected to be prodigal of Gold, in employing that preci­ous Metal on so vile a thing as that you now heard of.

This History contains nothing impossible, and it was related to us for a certain Truth, by People who seem'd to me Wise and Sen­sible: nevertheless, to speak freely, I cannot but suspect it. I believe no Author ever writ of it, and so singular a thing could not have been omitted. Perhaps something not un­like to this did really happen, which might give occasion to this Tradition.

I could not touch the Roof, because it is a little too high, but I have attentively look'd upon it, and saw distinctly that the Plates of Brass are placed on the Timber, and serve for Tiles; and I perceiv'd also that each of these Plates is cover'd with another thin one of other Metal, which seem'd to me to be about a Line in thick­ness. If these last Plates are not of Gold, I am sure they are gilded; but if there be but a simple Gilding, why Metal upon Metal? and why could they not also gild the Brazen Tiles?

The Roof may be about Fifteen Foot square; and if it be of Gold, I find by cal­culation that it cost about Two hundred thousand Crowns.

[Page 100]It was, as they say, the same Frederick, who caus'd Twenty eight fair Statues of Brass to be made, which are in the Church of the Cordeliers. There are Emperours, Arch-Dukes, Dukes of Burgundy, Two Em­presses, and Two Princesses, whom they knew not who they were: All are bigger than the Life. There is also to be seen in this Church a magnificent Tomb of the Emperour Maximilian I.

We went also to see Amras, which is a House of Pleasure of the Arch-Duke's; This House is a good half Hour from In­spruck, at the Foot of the Mountain; it hath no Beauty on any side, that we could observe, and its Situation is the only thing that makes it pleasant. They have taken a­way all the Furniture of ordinary use, but we found Galeries full of fine and very rare things. They led us presently into a large Hall, where truly the Arms were more curious than useful. They made us take notice, amongst other things, of an extraordinary great and heavy Lance, which the Arch-Duke Ferdinand used in Turnaments. They said that PrinceThe same is related of Lio­nardo du Vin­ci, a Painter of Florence. could stop a Coach and Six Horses, by ta­king hold of a Spoak of the Wheel; and that he broke with his Hands, two Crown-Pieces joined together: and I know not how many other prodigious things, more difficult to be believ'd than the History of Frederick.

We went out of this Hall into a Galery, where were to be seen many Princes upon [Page 101] their best Horses, with all their Armour, and all the Ornaments they used in Turnaments. They also kept there the Skin of a Serpent, which is Fifteen Foot long, and which was taken near Ulm, on the Bank of the Da­nube. At the end of the Galery you go in­to a Chamber, fill'd with Spoils and Arms taken from the Turks. A Bassa and an Aga of the Janisaries, are represented on their Horses, with the same Equipage they had when they were taken. Their Habits are very rich; and the Harness of their Horses is yet much richer; they are loaded with Ornaments of Gold and Silver, Precious Stones, Damask-Works, and other Arabian Embellishments.

From this they brought us into another Galery, in which was a double Rank of great Cupboards, which were joined by the Backs and Sides, and which fill'd the mid­dle of the Galery, even to the top, so that there was but a little room left to walk round. The Three first Cupboards were full of Works of Alabaster, Glass, Coral, and Mo­ther of Pearl. In the Fourth were Medals and Money of Gold and Silver. The Fifth was garnish'd with Vessels of Porcelane, and Seal'd Earth. In the Sixth were many little Cabinets very rich, of curious inlaid Works; the Boxes were fill'd with Medals, and little Works of Agat and Ambergreese: There are Seven great Volumes cover'd with Black Velvet, with Plates and Clasps of Silver; and instead of Leaves they con­tain flat Boxes, which inclose a great num­ber [Page 102] of Medals, so that these seven Volumes contain a compleat History. In the seventh Cupboard are ancient or curious Arms: I I observed a Cross-bow which included four and thirty Bows, and discharged thirty four Arrows at a flight. The eighth is full of Animals, Plants, and other Productions of Nature. That which is esteemed the greatest Rarity, is the Horn of an Oxe, which is six Inches diameter. There are also Works of Wood, of Ivory, and of the Pen, in the three following Cupboards. The twelfth is filled with Manuscripts, and curious Books. It would grieve one to pass this over slightly, because those who show it know not its worth. In the thirteenth are only works of Steel, and particularly mysterious Padlocks, and other Locks of curious Invention. You see in the four­teenth, Stones which represent Trees, Fruits, Shells, and Animals, all which are the pure product of Nature. The fifteenth and six­teenth are full of all sorts of Clock-work, and Instruments of Musick. That which follows is full of precious Stones, but un­wrought, and with a great deal of unpre­par'd Metals and Minerals. In the eighteenth are many small Vessels of diffe­rent Materials, and a very great number of the finest Shells in the World. The nine­teenth is the most precious of all, it is full of Vessels of Gold, Chrystal, Agat, Chal­cedony, Onyx, Cornelian, Lapis Lazuli, and other precious Stones, all of it inrich'd with Gold and Diamonds, in basso releivo, [Page 103] and other Ornaments of most curious Workmanship. The twentieth and last is filled with Antiquities, Sepulchral Lamps, Urns, Idols, &c. They also keep here a piece of a Rope about the length of your hand, and tell you, that it is a piece of the Rope with which Judas hang'd him­self.

There are an infinite number of things fastned to the Cieling and the Walls. The Bow of Noah, of the Bassan, is the most esteemed amongst the Pictures, and it ef­fectually is an admirable Piece. They say the last great Duke of Tuscany would have given an hundred thousand Crowns for it. Besides the Medals which I have told you of, and whose number is infinitely great, there is above a great Mule's Load, that lie huddled together in a Chest. When we parted from hence they brought us to the Library, which we found in very bad or­der, and our Guide could tell us nothing at all. From the Library we passed into a Galery, where there is a great number of Statues, Busts, and other Pieces of Antiqui­ty, and we saw afterwards a great many Chambers hung round with Pictures of great Price.

This Bill of Parcels is a little long, but I hope it will not be tedious to you. At last I must not forget to tell you of a Ser­vant at our Inn,At the Gol­den-Hart. who deserves to be ranked with these Rarities. This Fellow stretches his Arm on the Ground, and a Man of good Stature stands upon his Hand; he lifts [Page 104] him up with this Hand only, and carries him from one end of the Room to the other.

I am, SIR, Yours, &c.

LETTER XIII.

SIR,

A Small League from Inspruck, we re­enter'd into the Mountains, and for seven hours together did nothing but a­scend; this was the most troublesome day's Journey we had all the way. A place seemed to us to be amongst the Clouds, which a little while after we saw below us. At length we came very late to a little Vil­lage, which is not yet at the top of the Mountain. It is called Grusse, that is, the Salutation; and it was so named because Charles V. and Ferdinand his Brother met in this place: you may find the Story about two hundred Paces from the Village, on a Marble Stone, which was plac'd exactly where these two illustrious Brothers em­braced each other.

We had for Supper divers sorts of Wild-Fowl and Venison: almost all the Hares [Page 105] here, as well as the Foxes and Bears, are white; the Patridges are likewise so for the most part: there are a great many Heath-Hens, Pheasants, and other great Fowl, which they call Schenhakn, or Cock of the Snow. All these sort of Wild-Fowl have their Feet velvetted about the Claws, with a kind of Furr, which I cannot call either Hair or Feathers, but so thick as the Snow cannot pierce it.

The Mountain is called Brennerberg, which signifies a fiery Hill; and the reason is, that besides the Thunders which are fre­quent in Summer, there are Winds some­times which pierce and burn. They force themselves into the Throats or Passages of the Neighbouring Mountains, as into Pipes; and these various Torrents of the Air shock one another so impetuously, that they pro­duce roaring and furious Hurricanes, which tear up both Trees and Rocks by the Roots. They say, that Travellers are sometimes constrained, to wait many days till these Storms are over. As for us, we left this unpleasant Quarter the next day, and about two hours from thence, came to the highest accessible part of this Mountain. There we saw a thing very remarkable: It was a great Spring which falls upon a Rock, and straightway separates it self into two Currents, which in a little time after be­came two considerable Rivers. The one turns to the South, and disgorges it self into the Inn, near Inspruck. The other runs Northward, and after it hath passed Brixen [Page 106] and Bolsane falls into the Adige, a little above Trent. We dined the same day at Steert­zingen, where they gave us Oysters of Venice, and some Flesh of a certain Beast call'd Steinbokt, which is between a He-Goat and a Doe, and is most delicate Food. At this Town we turned out of the direct way to Trent, because it is dangerous, by reason of the Precipices, and took that of Brixen, which is not so rough, and is the most fre­quented.

This day we met more than an hundred Waggons which came from the Fair of Bolsane; they were almost all drawn by Oxen. I observed that the Cloven Feet of these Cattle were both parts shod with Iron. The Peasants of these Mountains have little Carts with two Wheels, which they draw themselves, and which they make use of to fetch Salt from Hall, which is a little City in the Valley of Inspruck. There are Salt-Pits there, the Water whereof being boiled, turns to Salt.

The Habits of these Mountaineers are the most pleasant in the World: Some of them have green, others yellow and blue Hats; and in some places it is difficult to know the Men from the Women. But as we change Countries, we may in all things observe the variety which reigns in the World. We find not only new Languages and new Customs, but also new Plants, new Fruits, new Cattle, and a new Face of the Earth. Almost quite throughout Tirol, the Sheep are black, in some places they [Page 107] are of a red tawny, and in others altogether white. There are some Provinces in which they have Horns; and others, where a horned Sheep would be look'd upon as a Monster. We observed also many diffe­rences in Beasts of the same kind: Nor are the Humours of Men without their Vari­eties. Not to leave the example of the Sheep; I know some Provinces, as that of Poitou, where the Milk of these Creatures is preferred before that of the Cows.Montague saith, the Tar­tars preferr Mares-Milk to all other Milk. In most others they will not trouble themselves to Milk them, so little do they value their Milk. I once liv'd a considerable while in a Country, where, when a Sow Pigs, if there be any white ones they drown them, because they believe, that all the white Pigs are Meazled. I have been also in a­nother Country, where the black Hogs were in less esteem than others. In Nor­mandy the Milk of a black Cow is look'd on as a specifick Remedy; the Doctors pre­scribe it for such, because the black Cows are less common than the red. And in some places of your Country it is quite contrary, they most highly esteem the red Cows Milk; the cause is plain, because the Cows are almost all black. Some can en­dure to look on nothing but what they are accustom'd to see; and others value nothing but what is rare and unknown. Custom and Prejudice domineer over the World, and fantastical Humour reigns every where with them.

[Page 108] BRIXEN. Brixen is yet in Tirol, it is a very little City, notwithstanding it is a Bishoprick, and the Bishop resides in it. I cannot tell you the reason why the best Lodgings in this Country are always in the uppermost Story. It is true, that there you have less noise, but the trouble to get up to them is an inconvenience.

From Brixen to Bolsane, which are but seven hours distant, we pass almost always between the River and the Mountains. Here the Rocks are so high that they pierce the Clouds; and when the Snow meets, or a sudden Thaw comes, it occasions such a rowling of these Rocks as makes the way very dangerous: A Traveller is pent up there as in a streight, or amongst many streights, and has not room enough to go either forward or backward, without dan­ger, which is alike either way. The Ac­cidents which happen, and the Coaches which are overturned, often in these un­even ways, have occasioned these little Ora­tories with which these Ways are lined. There they paint the misfortunes which befall them: And in the Picture you see, every one invoking that Saint, or that Nostradame, in which they have the greatest Confidence: For such a one hath a pro­found Veneration for our Lady of such a place, who would not spend a denier upon all the rest. When they are grievously Wounded, or any one is Kill'd, there is nothing for either He or She-Saint; but when any one hath a fortunate Escape, they [Page]

The Lady of Newburgh

Vol. 2. P. 109

[Page] [Page 109] erect these little Monuments I told you of. It is after this manner that some Churches are filled with Presents, which they say are the effects of Vows. Those who are in any kind of danger, implore either their Saint or their Relique, or their miraculous Image, If they are delivered they call their Preservation a Miracle, and accomplish their Vows. There have been already more than a Cart-load of Heads, Arms, and other Members of Silver, offered to our new Lady of Newbourgh. You may see great Churches all furnished and hung round with the like Monuments. They every day bring new ones, and the old give place to them, but you may be sure no­thing is lost.

When we entred into the Valley of Bol­sane, we were astonished to find the Air as sweet as could be imagined. The Vine­yards were all green, as well as the Willows, the Roses, the Mulberies, and a great num­ber of other Trees. A true Spring in the middle of Winter. This proceeds from its being sheltred from ill Winds, or from some other circumstance of the Country.

Bolsaner is in the Bishoprick of Trent; BOLSANE. it is a very little City, and its Fairs are all it can boast of. There are four in the Year, and each lasts fifteen days; in which the Mer­chandizes of Germany and Italy are ex­changed. We observed in the Roof of the Body of the great Church, a round Hole about three foot diameter; round about which is a kind of Garland, which is tied [Page 110] with Ribbons of several Colours, and on which I know not how many great Wafers hang. They told us, that on Ascension-day, there was a kind of Opera in this Church, and that a Man which represented Jesus Christ, was lifted up to Heaven through this hole.

All the Valley of Bolsane is full of Vine­yards, and the Vines are highly esteem'd by the People of the Country; but Strangers are not pleased with them, because of their sweetish Taste. It is but a good days Jour­ney between Bolsane and Trent, through the Valley which is very fruitful and pleasant. From place to place, near the Vines, are little Huts of Straw, which are supported by three high Firr-Poles, placed like a Trevet; there they hide themselves with a Carbine, in one of these little Ba­racques, and kill the Bears which come down from the Mountain to eat the Grapes.

TRENT. Trent is a little City, not much bigger than Bolsane, and is almost situated after the same manner. It is founded on a flat Rock of a kind of white and reddish Marble, of which most of the Houses are solidly built. This City hath many times been laid waste, by the Inundations to which it is subject. The River often overflows, and the Brooks of Levis and Fersena, tumble sometimes from the Mountains with such a terrible impetuosity, that they drive before them great Rocks, and rowl them even into the Town. Trent is begirt with a single Wall, [Page 111] and the Adige runs by the side of it. They boast of the Bridge which is built over this River, without having any thing extraordi­nary to show. They recommended to us the Bishop's Palace, as a great and splendid Edi­fice; and I remember I have formerly heard the same things said of it: But these Re­ports created in us false Notions of that House, which is low, and but of a very in­different size. The Bishop is a Temporal and Spiritual Lord in his Diocess, which is of a large extent. Some place it in Ita­ly, others make it part of Tirol: But these last deceive themselves, if we may believe the People of the Country, for they say Trent is in Italy, though the Bishop be a Prince of the Empire; and the common Language of Trent is Italian.

They shew'd us in a Chapel of the Ca­thedral, the Crucifix under which the Synod was sworn, and promulg'd: It is as big as the Life, and, they say, it bowed its Head, to testifie the Approbation which it gave to the Decrees of that Assembly. They add, That no Man ever knew what it was made of; so that many doubt whether it were made with Hands. They are about to take it from the dark Place in which we saw it, and place it in a magnificent Cha­pel, which will shortly be finished; where they expect it will do more Miracles than ever: It is call'd by way of Eminency, The Holy Crucifix. From thence we went to St. Mary Major, which yet is but a little Church. It is built of a kind of base Mar­ble, [Page 112] whose Squares are only cut a little less; and it was in this place the Council sate. The Organs of this Church are extraordi­narily great. They played to us many new Ayres, and counterfeited the Cries of a great many Animals: They beat a Drum, and did I know not how many other things, which have little relation to this place, or to the gravity of the Council, which is repre­sented in a great Picture hard by.Rigord, Phy­sician and Hi­storiographer of Philip Augu­stus, writes that in 1180, the Jews of Paris tore by Whipping, and Crucified a Boy of 12 Years old, named Richard, the Son of a Citi­zen; that the Criminals were put to death; that all the Jews were driven out of the Kingdom, and young Richard was canonzied. R. Dumont continuer of of the Chroni­cle of Sigi­bert. Rob. Gagum, Library-Keeper of Louis XII. Duplerick, and many others, re­port the same Story. Mezeray saith, that Louis Hattin recall'd the Jews, and that Nation being accus'd for poisoning the Fountains and Wells in 1321, were banish'd for ever by Philip V. the Edict yet remains. After­wards they carried us to the Church of St. Peter, to see the little Saint Simonin in his Chapel. They say that in the Year 1276, the Jews stole the Child of a Shooe-maker, whose name was Simon, and after they had shed his Blood in a most cruel manner, to serve at the Celebration of one of their Feasts, they threw the Carcass into a Water-Pipe (which pass'd at present to the House where the thing was done, and where their Sy­nagogue was at that time), and that the Bo­dy was carried by the Current into the Ri­ver, and taken up by Fisher-men. In a Word, the whole Villany was discover'd; the Jews were convicted, Thirty nine of them hang'd, and the rest banish'd the City for ever. Sixtus IV. who was then Pope, being inform'd of the whole matter, thought fit to Canonize the Child, and gave it the name of Simonin, the diminitive of Simon, the Father's Name. The Body was embalm'd, and is to be seen openly in a [Page 113] Case which is upon the Altar of the Cha­pel dedicated to him. They keep also in an adjoining Cupboard, the Knife, Pin­cers, and Four great Iron Needles, with which his Butchers tormented him; and Two Goblets of Silver, in which they drunk his Blood. Thus the Jews were ex­pell'd. But some Years after they obtain'd permission to abide in the City Three Days to do Business, and they assur'd me, that these Three Days were reduc'd to Three Hours, for their obstinate Defence of Buda in the last Siege. They have pain­ted this Story at Francfort, under the Bridge Gate, to load these miserable People who live in that City, with new Reproach; they have added other infamous Figures, where the Divel and Swine are represented mock­ing and laughing at the Jews. I forgot to tell you that the little Simonin was but Twenty eight Months old when he was thus Mar­tyr'd. I remember the two last Verses of an Epitaph on the Tomb of a young Lady in the Church of St. Mark; I believe they will not displease you. This young Wife says to her Husband,

Immatura peri, sed tu diuturnior annos
Vive meos, conjux optime, vive tuos.
I am, SIR, Yours, &c.

LETTER XIV.

SIR,

ROVEREDO.WE passed thro' the little City of Rove­redo, where there is a great Trade of Silk. Bourguetto is not far off, which is the last Village of the Trentin, and Ossenigo the first of the State of Venice; a little Cross of Wood makes the Separation between these two Sovereignties. A little on this side of Roveredo, we travers'd a Country all full of loose Rocks, scatter'd here and there, as if an Earthquake had thus sow'd them from the Ruines of some Mountain: This is call'd the Wood of Roveredo, though there be not so much as the Branch of a Tree in it. The Passage is sometimes dangerous, by reason of Thieves, as well as the Forest of Verg­nara, which is between Ossenigo, and the Fort of Guardara. Our Messenger advis'd us to take a Convoy in this last Passage. When you are come into the States of Ve­nice, you find no more of those Stoves, of which Germany is full; and you find a sen­sible change in every thing.

CHIUSA.We were constrain'd to lodge in a little Village call'd Seraino, because it was too late to get to Scluse. That is a very consi­derable Fort, whose Situation is something like that of the Scluse which we met be­tween Geneve and Lyons, on the River Rhosne; I fansie I have seen the Descri­ption [Page 115] of it in your Closet. The first is at the Foot of a high Rock; the way which leads to it is dug out of the craggy part of the same Rock; and on the other side is a Precipice, at the bottom whereof rowls the Adige. After we had pass'd this Fort, and had for some time follow'd the Banks of that River, which glides along among high Rocks, we found the Heaven open'd, and entred into a vast Plain; whereas ever since our Departure from Munich, we had been enclos'd between the Mountains.

This Plain is stony and barren in divers Places: There are in it some Olive-Trees, and White Mulberries for the Silk-Worms; the Vines ate planted at the foot of Cher­ry-Trees, and young Elms, and they join themselves in Garlands from Tree to Tree. We pass'd the Adige in a Ferry-Boat, two good Leagues from Seraino; and a quarter of an Hour after,VERONA. we plainly perceiv'd Ve­rona, where we arrived the same Day. By what we saw at our entrance into it, we judg'd it to be but thinly Peopled. There are great void places on this side, and Grass growing in the Streets, and the great­est part of them not paved: It's true, the rest of the City is not like this part; but putting all together, Verona looks like a poor place; and indeed there is but little Trade in it, and those which live on their Rents make no great Figure. If there be some fine Buildings, it is certain that the Houses in general are very low and unequal. The greatest part of the Balconies are of Wood, [Page 116] so loaded with little Gardens in Pots and Cases, that it seems dangerous to pass un­der them: The Streets are dirty, and al­most all narrow. In a Word, This City is not at all fit to please the Eyes of a Travel­ler. Nevertheless it is very great, in a good Air, and its Situation is admirable. As it yields but little satisfaction when you be­hold it near, and take a particular view of it; so much the more will you admire it, when you look upon it from some eminency. We went up to the Castle of St. Peter, which is on a rising ground, within the Compass of the Walls, and we could not give over view­ing it from this Place; where we had a full prospect of it, and were charm'd to behold that admirable Garden of Pleasure, in the midst of which it is seated. The Adige crosses it, and Four fair Stone Bridges make the Communication between the two Parts, into which the River divides it. The Ca­stle of St. Felix is behind that of St. Peter, and both together command the City. The other Fortifications of this place are much neglected, and very irregular.

The Amphitheatre of Verona is a thing so much the more surprising, because we do not frequently meet with such Monuments of antiquity.The outward Wall or Front. The Inclosure is all destroy'd, but they have taken care to repair the Benches, according as they fell to decay; there are Four and forty of them, and I counted Five hundred and thirty Paces in the highest round, and Two hundred and fifty on the lowest. Every Step is near a Foot and a [Page 117] half high,See the little Treatise which Justus Lipsius hath writ of Amphithea­ters. and is about Twenty six Inches in breadth: This last Distance could not be less, that so those who sate behind might not be troublesome to the others with their Feet. At every end of the Arena, between the Benches, there is a Portal of Twenty eight Foot high, by which the Entrance is to the Arena out of the Street; and a­bove every Portal a kind of Tribune or Platform of Twenty Foot long, and Ten broad, closed before and on the sides with a Balcony of Marble.Others at­tribute it to the Emperour Maximin. Euseb. It is commonly said that this was the work of Augustus, but I find but little Proof of it. You see still remaining a TriumphalThe Inscripti­on of this Arch can no more be read. See how it is related by N. Vigni­er, in his Historical Library. Colonia Augusta Verona Gallieniana. Valeriano. II. Et Lucilio Coss. muri veronensium Fabricari, & die III. Non. April. dedicati. prid. no. Decemb. jubente sanctissimo Gal­lieno. Aug. N. Arch, and some Ruines of Ancient Monuments.

The Cathedral is a little dark Church. Pope Lucius III. is interr'd there; and they have written for an Epitaph on his Tomb-Stone, Ossa Lucii III. Româ pulsus invidiâ. I expected to have found another, which is more ingenious, which I remember I have read somewhere:

Luca dedit tibi Lucem, Luci; Pontificatum
Ostia; Papatum, Roma; Verona, mori.
Immo Verona dedit tibi Lucis gaudia; Roma,
Exilium; curas, Ostia; Luca, mori.

[Page 118] You know this Pope had great Broils with Frederick Barbarossa, as well as Alexander III. his Predecessor. But these were not the only Cause of his leaving Rome: He was driven out by the Magistrates, and by theLucius est piscis rex, atque Tyrannus aquarum A quo discordat Lucius iste parum. Devorat ille homines, hic piscibus insidiatur: Esurit hic semper, ille aliquando satur. Amborum vitam si laus aequata notaret, Plus rationis habet, qui ratione caret. People, because he would be too Imperi­ous.

It is said that Pepin the Son of Charle­main, and King of Italy, built the Church of St. Zeno at Verona. It must be confess'd the Carvers of that time were miserable Ar­tists. Never were there seen such wretch­ed Figures as these in the Front of this Church. I observ'd in rhe Frontispiece of the great Portal, two kind of Birds, which by their Combs somewhat resembled Cocks. They hold an Animal with a long Tail, be­tween them, which we suspected was design'd to represent a Fox; this poor Beast had his Feet tied together, and hung over a Pole, the ends of which were supported by the Cocks. I cannot forbear searching into the meaning of this little Mystery; and if you please, I will adventure to tell you my Thoughts of it. The allusion of Gallus a Cock, to Gallus a French-man, is a thing so familiar, that I fansie the two Cocks may signifie two French-men, and the Animal thus bound, must be some crafty Fellow, [Page 119] cheated nevertheless, and supplanted by the Cocks. The Crane hath formerly been too hard for Renard. But to apply this Em­blem to some particular Event: Supposing it to be true, that this Chuch was built under Pepin, as it seems very probable, it may be conjectur'd, that his Father Charle­main and he were the two Cocks, and that the unfortunate Didier, the last King of the Lombards, was the Fox: You know Charlemain caus'd himself to be crown'd King of the Lombards, after he had dispos­sessed Didier, and Pepin was crown'd King of Italy some Years after: Didier then van­quish'd, stripp'd, shaven, and put into a Convent; too nearly resembles the Fox: Except you had rather it should be his Son, whose Name, I think, was Adalgise; who in the end was taken and kill'd, af­ter he had vainly employ'd all his Wit and Force to regain the Possession of his Fa­ther's Dominions. I will not say that Pe­pin amus'd himself with such a Trifle, but it was perhaps the Fancy of the Carver. On the side of the same Portal they have put this fine Hieroglyphick. There is a Man on Horse-back in basso relievo, over whom these Three Verses are written in Characters, half Roman, half Gothick:

O Regem stultum, petit infernale tributum.
Móx (que) paratur equus quem misit Daemon iniquus.
Exit aquâ nudus, petit infera not rediturus.

[Page 120]Tho' I have given you some Conjectures concerning the Fox, I confess I can make nothing of this Divel's Horse; you may think of both as you please.

Returning from thence, we pass'd by the little Church of St. Mary the Old, near which are to be seen many magnificent Tombs of the Scaligers, who, as you know, were Princes of Verona, before that City belong'd to the Republick of Venice.

The Rarities which we saw in the Cabi­net of the Count Mascardo, deserve that some learned Man should undertake their Description: And it may be cause of Admiration, that those who have had the Curiosity, and the Means to amass so many fine things together, should not have had the care to procure Stamps of them, and to add Explanatory Remarks on such as are most considerable; scarce any thing more remarkable can fall within the Observati­on of a Traveller, nor any thing that de­serves better to be studied and describ'd. There you find a Gallery, and Six Cham­bers, all fill'd with the most admira­ble Productions of Art or Nature. But as it is not possible for me to give you a par­ticular Account of so many things, so will I not engage my self in such a Task, nei­ther at present, nor for the future: You need but call to mind all that you have alrea­dy seen in my Letters, and particularly that which I writ from Inspruck. Of Pictures, Books,Roman Rods or Fasces. Rings, Animals, Plants, Metals, monstrous or Extravagant Productions, and [Page 121] Works of all Fashions; and, in a Word, all that can be imagin'd curious, or worth in­quiry, whether for Antiquity or Rarity, or for the Delicacy and Excellency of the Workmanship; the Catalogue of them would alone amount to a Volume; only to satisfie you in some measure, I assure you, that when-ever I shall meet with any thing that I have not taken Notice of be­fore, and which shall seem worthy of par­ticular Observation, I shall take care to communicate it to you.

There are here manyThe Vessels which they name are, en­clabria, pate­rae, prefericu­la, ollae sym­pullae. Many sorts of Knives, dola­bra, cultri, seva, secespita. Axes, Mallets, Candlesticks. Instruments and Utensils, which were used in the Pagan Sacrifices. They also show'd us Figures of Brass, that represent all sorts of things, which they hung up in the Temples of their Gods, when they had receiv'd any Assi­stance from them.

We saw also many pieces of Workman­ship, fram'd out of the Stone Amianthos, which is the [...], so famous among the Natura­lists; this Stone, as hard and weighty as it is, is easily divided into Fibres or Threads, which are so strong and flexible, that they may be spun like Cotton. Before I leave this Head, I must acquaint you with this Remark concerning the Instances of Petrefaction, which I have observ'd either here or else­where; that there is many times a great deal of Errour and Uncertainty in them, and that there are several Persons who scru­ple not to use a little Artifice to multiply [Page 122] and diversitie the Rarities with which they design to fill a Cabinet. It cannot be de­ny'd that Nature seems to divert herself sometimes, with such fantastical Changes; but it must also be confess'd, that they are often counterfeited by Art. I know not whether you ever saw any of those pre­tended Animals, call'd Basilisks, which have a little resemblance of a Dragon. The Invention is prettily contriv'd, and has cheated many; for they take a small Ray, and having turn'd it after a certain man­ner, and rais'd up the Fins in form of Wings, they fit a little Tongue to it, sha­ped like a Dart, and add Claws and Eyes of Enammel, with other little Knacks, cu­riously order'd; and this is the whole Se­crecy of making Basilisks. I am not igno­rant that some Authors mention another sort of Basilisk, without either Feet or Wings, which they represent like a crown'd Serpent, and many Naturalists affirm that it kills with its Breath and Looks. Galen takes notice of it as the most Venemous of all Serpents, and tells us that the We­zel only fears not its Poison, but on the contrary, poisons it with its Breath. But I believe this Serpent is found only in the Land of Phoenixes and Uni­corns.

The Curious may learn in Matthiolus how they make the Mandrakes.I might alledge to you many other lit­tle Cheats, like that of the first Basilisk; but to return to our Account of Petrefa­ction, I shall fix only on one of all those Observations that might be brought to Il­lustrate [Page 123] this Subject. There is a certain natural Production, according to some, a kind of imperfect Plant, or a Coralline Matter, which extreamly resembles a Mush­room. I know not whether they do not some­times cheat themselves, or are willing to cheat others. Be it as it will, this is that which they call Petrify'd Mushrooms, which indeed were never Mushrooms. The Question de­pends on the matter of Fact; but one may yet say, that the little solidity, and the little hardness of a Mushroom, makes it a thing the least in the World Petrifiable, the Meta­morphosis must be done in a trice.

I remember I observ'd in this Cabinet many of those Barks of Trees, on which the Ancients wrote, before they knew the use of Paper; two Trees of black Coral, three Foot high each; a Hen's Egg

[figure]

which was of this Figure; a Knife of Stone extreamly sharp, which some Jews made use of for the Circumcision of Children who died before the Eighth Day. The Ceremonies of the Jews are diffe­rent, particularly between the Oriental, the German, the Italian, and the Portugueze. I remember I have read in Buxtorf, an in­finite Number of their Customs that are not used in this Country. Some make use of the Cutting-StoneIt is said ac­cording to the Hebrew, in Joshua Chap. V. that they Circumcised the Children of Israel with Knives of Stone; and in Exodus IV. That Zippora circumcised her Son with a Stone. Joseph Scaliger saith, there were Jews who took off the Prepuce with their Nails; and others who cut it a little, and tore away the rest. I have seen them cut with a kind of Razor at London and Rome., according to the [Page 124] ancient Practice: But in Italy, they gene­rally use to bury the dead Child without Circumcision; and if they circumcise them, they use a Knife made of a Cane: The ordinary Circumcision is perform'd with a Steel Knife.

We saw a Burial lately, of which I must give you some Account: The Body was dress'd in Black, with a White Linen Cloak, a fine Peruke, on the Head a Hat, and above that a Garland of Flowers. The Corps was laid on a Quilt, with a Counterpane of Flower'd Silk, Yellow and Red, and supported with a Pillow of the same Stuff. Four Men carry'd it thus all open, and the Company follow'd Two and Two, of which only those wore Garlands who were never Married. This was also the Custom of the Ancients, and they call'd it Corona pudicitiae, The Crown of Chastity. Some Hours before, we had another Ren­counter: It was a Woman richly dress'd, who walk'd thro' the City between two Nuns, and was going to take the Habit. It is ordinary in this Country to go thus in publick, whereas in France, and many other places, this Ceremony is perform'd in the Convent.M. Montel. A French Merchant who dwelt here many Years, has just now gi­ven me an Account of a Procession, which he had often seen, and which I have a great mind to relate to you before I finish my Let­ter.Mark 11.7. They at Verona believe after that Jesus Christ had made his Entrance into Jerusalem, he gave a Key of the Fields to the She or [Page 125] He-Ass, which he made use of to ride on, being willing that the Beast should pass the rest of his days in quiet and liberty. They add, that the Ass, weary with ha­ving so long gnaw'd on the Pastures of Palestine, resolv'd to visit foreign Countries, and to undertake a Voyage by Sea; he had no need, say they, of a Ship, the Waves became smooth, and the liquid Ele­ment as hard as Crystal. After he had visited the Islands of Cyprus, Rhodes, Candie, Malta, and Sicily, he pass'd over the Gulf of Venice, and staid some days in the place where that famous City was since built: But the Air seeming to him to be un­healthful, and the Pasturage bad among the Salt and Marish Isles, Martin conti­nu'd his Voyage, and mounted the Ri­ver of Adige dry-shod, and coming up to Ve­rona, he made choice of that for his last Residence. After he had liv'd there some Years, like an Ass of Estate and Quali­ty, he died at last, to the great Grief of the Con-fraternity. So lamentable and u­niversal a Braying, made the Echoes resound thro' the Country, and never was so sad a Melody heard at the Funeral of such an A­nimal, not even in Arcadia it self. But they quickly found a way to alleviate their Grief, for all the Honours imagina­ble being render'd to the blest Deceas'd, the Devotees of Verona carefully preserve the Reliques, and have put them into the Belly of an Artificial Ass, made for that purpose, where they are kept to this day, [Page 126] to the great Joy and Edification of Pious Souls. This Holy Statue is kept in the Church of Nostre Dame of the Organs, and Four of the lustiest Monks of the Convent, in Pontifical Habits, carry it so­lemnly in Procession two or three times in the Year.

You know Catullus was of Verona.

Tantum magna suo debet Verona Catullo,
Quantum parva suo Mantua Virgilio.
I am, SIR, Yours, &c.

LETTER XV.

SIR,

THE Country between Verona and Vi­cenza is fruitful, well manur'd, and al­most every where level: The Trees are planted in Chequers, on which the Vines are rais'd, and spread themselves among the Branches; and the Ground is carefully till'd. We din'd at a little Village call'd La Torre, where are the Bounds between the Veronese and Vicentin. The Wine of this Country is of so faint a Sweetness, that it is noxious to [Page 127] the Stomach. Yet there are Wines at Verona that are much esteem'd, and I think I have read in Suetonius, that Augustus made them his ordinary Drink. The Bread is as if it were Earth, tho' very white and excellent Flower; it is because they know not how to make it: Together with this, they treat­ed us with a Dish of grey Pease, fried in Oil, and this was all our Feast. Is it not ve­ry strange that we should be in danger to die of Hunger in a good Country, after we had fed plentifully among the Rocks and Mountains? The Soil is fat, and consequently the Ways bad; inso­much that at this Season, there was need of Seven or Eight Horses to draw the Waggon-Coaches; they put them all to­gether under the Coachman's Whip, that he may drive them without a Postili­on.

Vicenza is less by half than Verona, VICENZA. and is only encompass'd with tottering Walls. Three or Four little Rivers meet there, by which divers Commodities are im­ported, but none of them are Navigable. Our Guide carried us to some of the Churches: The Coronata is well paved and wainscotted: That of the Religious of St. Catharines, hath Three fair Altars. There are some good Pictures in the Cathedral; and they show us, likewise, in the Choir a Work of carv'd Stones, which the Sex­ton prais'd very much, tho' the matter be of little value; the Performance is better than the Design. The Town-House is [Page 128] very indifferent, yet they boast of it as a rare Piece. For to tell you the truth, it is a difficult matter to accommodate one's self to the high-flown Discourses of the Ita­lians. It is impossible for them to speak modestly; for when they would praise any thing, they do it with exaggerations; and he who hath the good fortune to please them, is always Wonderfull, Marvelous, and Incomparable. We have already seen I know not how many pretended Eighth Wonders of the World. When we complain'd that we saw at Verona, so few considerable Buildings in so great a City, and which had formerly been so famous; they promi­sed us that we should find Mountains and Miracles at Vicenza. They told us Vicenza was full of stately Palaces, of an extraor­dinary sumptuous Architecture. These were indeed big Words; but 'tis certain that never any found themselves more dis­appointed than we were when we came to see these pretended magnificent Palaces of Vicenza; for we must use the Phrases of the Italians, who must be allow'd to call what­soever they please, a Palace. A little Citizen's Hall, which you in England call a Parlour, in Italy hath the Title of The Chamber of Audience, when you may as well give the Title of Embassies to a Footboy's Message. It is all one to me, whether they call the Lacqueys Embassadors, or all their Houses L'Ouvres. This is the best in the World in Italian; but for us, or others, who are no Italians, we cannot suffer our selves to be [Page 129] surprized with their Palaces, nor their most Sumptuous. I know not very well what the Word Palace signifies in your Tongue; but those who are somewhat versed in our Language, ought to have no regard to the resemblance of the Word Palais, to that of Palazzo, as if they signified the same thing. The Word Palais is not used so prodigally amongst us, as that of Palazzo is amongst the Italians; it imports a great deal more, and excites another Idea in the Hearer. In a Word, I find that they give the Name of Palazzi to an infinite Number of ordinary Houses, to which that of Palais does not at all belong. And to apply all that has been said to the lofty Palaces of Vicenza. I maintain in general, that they may be call'd handsome Houses, and no more. Perhaps there are Three or Four for which that Name might seem too mean; but I cannot tell how they can be term'd very fine; for to speak properly, they are but well-disguis'd, not fine Houses: That is to say, there is nothing fair but the Frontispiece, and that is no more than indifferent, for they are often built with Plaister instead of hewn Stone. I insist the more on this, because it is hard to root out the old Mistake, with which many People are possess'd, about the multitude of Palaces in Italy; and I would endea­vour always to represent things as they are.

Our Guide finding that we were no great Admirers of his Palaces, fansi'd however, [Page 130] that he knew a way to surprize us; and having insensibly oblig'd us to follow him, he drew us on through the Dirt, a good half League from the City, to shew us a little Country-House, which belonged to the Marquess of Capra. It is a square Building, in the midst whereof is a little Hall, under a small Dome, and at each Angle of the square two Chambers and a Closet. There are some good Pictures in it; and the situation being on a little ascent, contributes to render the place very agreeable.

Coming back from this House, he car­ry'd us to our Lady of Montheric. It is fa­mous in this Country, and the Prior told us the whole Story of it very seriously. You are to know only that this Image of our Lady came out of the Earth, in the very place where you see her: And that they have often in vain endeavoured to transport her to Vicenza; Ten thousand Men together, as the Prior told us, were not able to carry her. The Picture by Paul of Verona, which is in their Dining-Room, is the best Piece in the Convent, it represents St. Gregory at Table with some Pilgrims.

There are some Ruines of an ancient Amphitheatre at Vicenza, but they told us, they were almost all hid under new Buil­dings. The Theatre which is in the Aca­demy of the Olympicks, is of the famous Palladio. The Fabrick is none of the largest, and they use it but on certain occasions, which rarely happen. The Triumphal-Arch, [Page 131] which is without the Gates, at the entrance of the Plain, which is called the Field of Mars, is in imitation of the An­tick way of Building, by the same Palla­dio.

The Garden of the Count of Valmanara, is a thing much boasted of in this City, and the Inscription which we read over the Garden-Gate, put us in great expectations. You have here the Contents of it: ‘Stop, dear Traveller, thou, who searchest for rare things, and enchanted places, for here thou mayst find satisfaction. Enter into this deli­cious Garden, and taste abundantly of all sorts of Pleasures: The Count of Valmanara gives thee leave, &c. In effect, they once design'd to have made this a very agreeable place. There is a Canal, Divisions or Knots, and Closets; be­sides an Alley of Citrons and Oranges, which is indeed a fine thing.

This Mounsieur the Count puts me in mind of a pleasant Story, which I have read in several Authors. They say that Charles the Fifth being at Vicenza, a great number of Gentlemen and rich Burgesses of that place, pressed him very much to grant them the Title of Counts: Charles still drew back, but in the end, to be rid of these troublesome People, said aloud, Well, well, I make you all Counts, both the City and Suburbs. From this time, saith the History, [Page 132] nothing is more common than the Counts of Vicenza.

The way from Vicenza to Padua is not unlike to that between Verona and Vicenza. We passed the Tezenza about three quarters of an hour from Vicenza, and the Brenta an hour from Padua. I know not whether the Antiquaries are agreed concerning this Brenta: Some pretend it was the Timavus, and others, that it is one of the Medoacus's: The first opinion seems least probable, be­cause of the River Timavus, Bologna la grassa venetia la guasta, ma Padoa la Passa. which passeth by Friuli, and which is apparently the true one; but let us leave them to end their difference, and come to Padua.

The Paduan is a level Country, and ex­treamly fruitful, yet Padua is a poor and ill-peopled City. The Circuit of it is great: but there are large places in it that are void of Buildings, and many Houses void of In­habitants.PADUA, called the Learned. This City was subjected to the Venetians, in the Year 1406. In 1519. they pulled down the Suburbs, in which were 10 Monasteries, 6 Churches, 7 Hospitals, and about 3000 Houses. Schrad. The ancient Padua hath still re­tain'd its first Walls; but since it fell into the hands of the Venetians, they have com­prized the Suburbs in the City, and com­passed it with a Fortification, which was never good, and is at present ready to fall.

There are Porches or Piazza's, almost throughout the whole City, which are very convenient to shelter People from Rain, but otherwise make the Streets narrow and dark, and give opportunity for those fre­quent [Page 133] Robberies and Murders, which they call at Padua, the Qui va li? What can be more strange, than that the Scholars of Padua, should be priviledg'd to knock down those whom they meet, and to break Legs and Arms, without any hope of Justice? For, as soon as Night falls, they arm them­selves, and going out in Companies, hide themselves between the Pillars of the Porches; and while the poor Passenger is struck with terror at the hearing of the Question, Qui va li? without perceiving who makes it; another at the same time cries, Qui va la? without giving a Man an opportunity to go forward or backward; the unhappy Creature must perish between the Qui va li, and the Qui va la: of which these Sparks make but a Sport. This is what they call the Qui va li of Padua.

It often happens that these Scholars kill unknown Persons, or some of themselves, to maintain the privilege that they have assum'd. 'Tis true, these Indignities are not daily committed, for People keep themselves as close as they can out of harms way. But it may be said, without exaggeration, that not a Month passeth, in which two or three Mischances do not happen. Not but that this unbridled Licence might be easily restrain'd; but Venice, which insists on the fineness of her Politicks, and pushes them to the utmost, would have this Scourge for the Paduans, and this Petrolle which costs nothing. I will tell you the rest another time.

[Page 134]I had yesterday a long discourse with some Persons, who believe that Padua was formerly a Sea-Port, both because the An­cients speak of it, as a very rich Place, and because when they dig Wells or Foundations of Houses, they find in divers places Anchors and Masts. I know not if this Opinion may seem reasonable to you; but since History hath given us no account of it, I should rather have recourse to a more easie way, to explain how Vessels come up to Padua, which is, that there was formerly some great Canal.

They affirm also, that Padua was built by Antenor, and they show there a great repository for Bones, in which they have placed the pretended Bones of this old Trojan, and it is commonly called Antenor's Tomb. But this Tradition is not very cer­tain: it cannot indeed be denied, thatSee the 1st Book of the Eneids. An­tenor came into this Country: And 'tis no less certain, that he built a City which was called Patavium. But the question is whe­ther our Padua be the Patavium of Antenor, Messala Corvi­nus saith, that the Arms of Troy were placed by An­tenor in the Temple of Padua; and that they were a Sow in a Field Or. for this Opinion is not improbable, yet there are Arguments against it, as well as for it.

As for the Tomb it is a meer Bauble. It is about four hundred and odd Years, that they were working on the Foundations of an Hospital, and dug up a Leaden-Coffin, near which they found a Sword. The [Page 135] Coffin had no Inscription, and upon the Sword were some Leonin Verses of barba­rous Latin. Judge, I pray you, whether this may not as well agree with the Trojan Horse as Antenor. In the mean time the immoderate love which some People have for every thing that bears the Stamp of An­tiquity, has made some Persons dream, that they had found the Tomb of Antenor. A certain Man called Lupatus, who was then Magistrate, and a Man of some Learning, had also his Reasons or Prejudices in favour of these Bones: And he it was, who some Years after, put them in that renowned Tomb, which they call at this day the Tomb of Antenor, and which is to be seen at the entrance of St. Laurence's-street. He caused four Verses to be Engraved on it, and which, as you may believe are in Gothick Characters:

C. Inclytus Antenor patriae
[figure]
nisa quietem
Transtulit huc Enetum Dardanidúm (que) fugas
Expulit Euganeos Patavinam condidit Urbem,
Quem tenet hic humili marmore caesa domus.

There are some who read, Patriae vox, and others, Patriam. But they are both in the wrong, for the ae of the word Patriae is plain; and if one would joyn the m, which follows with Patriae, it must be read Pa­triaem. This m is nearer to vox than Patriae, nor can it be doubted to be an m, because the same Character is found in divers words which follow. I confess that Muox signifies [Page 136] nothing no more thin Patriaem; and turn these Verses which way you please, you will never find any good sence.

To conclude the account of this Inscripti­on, there are some who have made a false Remark upon the word caesa, as if it were writ with a single e, but they have not observed theae eciril, which serves for an ae; besides, there are, you know, old Impressi­ons, which never regard this Dipthong. Enetum is written without an h, and there is no punctuation observ'd throughout. I know not what to say of the C. which is put to the beginning of the Verse. You must further know, that Doctor Lupetus would have his own Tomb placed near that of his dear Antenor, and they remain at present side by side.

The Church of St.They call him St. An­thony of Padua, because he died there, and was there buried, but he was a Fran­ciscan of Lis­bon, and Co­temporary with St. Francis d'Assise. Spond. Bel­larmin, Tri­themius, &c. Anthony of Lisbon, is very great, and full of fine things, as well in Carving as in Painting. There are many magnificent Tombs in it, among which we observ'dMade in the Year 1555. by Augustin Zotto. that of Alexander Con­tarini, Admiral of the Republick, and Procu­rator of St. Mark, and that of Count Horatio Sicco, who was killed at Vienna, in the last Siege. There cannot be seen a fairer Picture in Fresco, than that of the Chapel of St. Felix, it was done by the famous Giotto, who excelled in that sort of work. But that which is the most considerable in [Page 137] this Church is theForty foot long, and twenty five broad. Ang. Port. Chapel of St. Anthony, the great Protector of Padua, whom, by way of eminency they call the Saint. His Body lies under the Altar, which is inriched with a thousand precious things. They say that the Bones of the Saint cast forth a very sweet Odour; those who have the Curiosi­ty to smell them, go behind the Altar to a certain part which is not well joyned, and where it were easie to thrust in some Balsam, or such like odoriferous thing. All the Chapel is covered with a Basso relievo Work of white Marble, in which are re­presented the principal Miracles of St. An­thony. Almost the whole work was done by Tullius Lombardus, and Sansovin. There are also six and thirty great silver Lamps, which burn Night and Day round the Altar: I will not trouble you with that medley of Stories, which those who shew this Chapel, are wont to relate concerning their Saint.

From this Church we went to that of St. Justina, which is very great and beau­tiful, though it be far from the Per­fection to which they design to advance it. It is pav'd with Marble-squares, of red, black, and white; the Roof of the great Body of the Church hath seven Domes, which give it both Light and Ornament. There are also two on each Arm of the Cross. Besides the great Altar, which is a stately Work, there are twenty four others of fine Marble, and all different in Colour. And whereas the Church of St. Anthony is full of Monuments, they will [Page 138] not suffer any in this: There is only one Inscription, which says, That the Church was built at the only charge of the Con­vent. TheThis Work was perform'd in 22 Years, by a French­man called Ricard. Basso relievo of the Benches of the Choir is admirable, and the design is fine throughout: which repre­sents the Prophecies of the Old Testa­ment, relating to Jesus Christ, with their accomplishment in the New. The Mar­tyrdom of St. Justina, which is over the great Altar, was done by Paul of Verona.

I will not undertake to give you a par­ticular description of this Church. The Monastery is also vastly great, it hath six Cloysters, and many Courts and Gardens. I will not trouble you with an account of the Image of the VirginSee Baron. an. 726, and 730., which flew from Constantinople when it was taken by the Turks: Nor will I add any thing concern­ing the Bodies of the Saints, or the other Relicks, of which this Church is full, for so we should never end its Story.

The great place which is near to it, was formerly called the Field of Mars. I can­not imagine why People,256 Foot long, and 86 broad, Angelo Por­tenari who love names of Honour so much, have robb'd it of its ancient Title, to call it simply, Prato della valle, the Meadow of the Valley.

This Hall is of the Figure of a Rhomboides, and is not su­stained by any Pillars. Peter Aponus who was the Architect, and a famous Necromancer, saith Cardan, wrought the Vault with Constellati­ons and Astronomical Figures, which remain still to be seen.The Hall of the Town-House is very large and dark; it is one hundred and ten Paces long, and forty broad, and there [Page 139] are to be seen in it many Monuments which have been erected for illustrious Per­sons. Padua had a happy chance to redeem its Founder out of the obscurity in which he had lain for near three thousand Years: It was but just also, that the first unknown Tomb they met withal in this City, should serve to honour the Memory of Titus Livi­us, the famous Historian who was born there.

The discovery of this Tomb, in the Year 1413. was attended with the universal joy and acclamations of the People. There was found in the Gardens of St. Justina, a shrine of Lead, not unlike to that of Ante­nor; and they presently concluded, that it was the Coffin of Titus Livius, because that Historian was the Priest of Concord; and the Convent of the Benedictines of St. Justina, is built on the Ruines of a Temple, which was of old Consecrated to that Goddess. When the noise of this dis­covery was spread abroad, all the City run thither, with transports of an inexpressible Joy and Zeal. The People touched their Beads on the Shrine of the supposed Titus Livius, as if he had been some new Saint. Many private Persons offered to be at the Charge of a Mausolaeum, provided they might erect it in their own Houses; and every one rejoyc'd that he was born in that happy Age, when this precious Treasure was discovered. In fine, Titus Livius, after he had been robb'd of his Jaws by a People greedy of Relicks, was put into a Coffin of [Page 140] Wood, that he might more easily be carried. They loaded it with Branches of Laurel, and the best of the City carried it in Tri­umph to the Palace of Justice; in which place, after many Deliberations and Cere­monies, they erected the Monument which is now to be seen, and to which they after­ward added this Inscription, which was found in the Neighbourhood of the place where the Temple of Concord formerly stood.

  • Vivens Fecit.
    V. F.
  • Titus Livius
  • Liviae. T. F.
  • Quartae L.
  • Halys
  • Concordialis
  • Patavi
  • Sibi & suis
  • Omnibus.

Over this Inscription, they have placed a Head of Marble, which goes for the Head of Titus Livius, though Men of Learning know the contrary. It is true, the In­scription is ancient, as well as the Head, but there has been aBy L' Orsato. Dissertation lately Publish'd concerning this subject; which, in my Opinion, clearly proves, that the Titus Livius of this Inscription, was only a freed Man of one of the Daughters of Titus Li­vius the Historian: So that the Bones, the Head, and the Inscription, are only bor­rowed Pieces.

[Page 141]To leave the Fables and Incertainties of Antiquity, and come to something that is new and real; I shall give you an account of another Monument, which we saw in this same Hall, and which is worthy of Observation. Some have exalted Susanna beyond Lucretia, but it may be justly said that the Marchioness D' Obizzi, of whom I shall presently speak, hath surpassed Su­sanna and Lucretia both; since when she saw Death present before her, she resolv'd to bear it couragiously, rather than to suffer her Chastity to be Injur'd. A Gentleman of Padua, was passionately in love with this Lady, who was young and beautiful, and found an opportunity to get into her Chamber when she was in Bed, in the Ab­sence of the Marquess her Husband. Pro­bably the Gentleman first used all the ways of sweetness and perswasion, before he pro­ceeded to acts of Violence. But however, when he saw he could prevail neither way, his Love turned to Fury, and Rage so transported him, that he stabbed this Ver­tuous Lady. See the Inscription:

Venerare pudicitiae simulachrum & victimam, Lucretiam de Dondis ab Horologio Pyaeneae de Obizzonibus, Orciani Marchionis Uxorem. Haec inter noctis tenebras maritales asserens tedas, fu­riales recentis Tarquinii faces, casto cruore ex­tinxit. Sic (que) Romanam Lucretiam, intemerati tori gloria vincit. Tantae suae Heroinae gene­rosis manibus hanc dicavit aram Civitas Pata­vina Decreto. Die 31. Decembris Anni 1661.

[Page 142]Are you not satisfied, Sir, that Padua hath done a most just Action, by taking care to eternize the Memory of so rare a Virtue, that met with such a barbarous Treatment? But perhaps you would not take it amiss to have the whole Story related to you.

When the Marchioness was surprized in her Bed, her only Son, about five Years old was with her; but the Murtherer ha­ving carried him into a Neighbouring Cham­ber, before he perpetrated his horrid Vil­lany, the Child could not see all that pas­sed. The thing being brought to light, the Gentleman was taken into Custody, upon suspicion: It was known that he had an Inclination to the Marchioness. The Child gave some Information; some Neigh­bours affirm'd, they had seen the Gentle­man in that Quarter: They found a Button of his Sleeve on the Bed, fellow to that which he still wore; and these things were strong Arguments of his Guilt. They put him to the Torture, both ordinary and ex­traordinary, but he still denied the Fact; and after fifteen Years Imprisonment, his Friends wrought so hard, that they saved him, and even, as I suppose, obtained his Liberty; which yet he enjoyed not long, for some Months after his Deliverance, the young Marquess, which was the Child I spoke of, shot him with a Pistol in the Head, and so revenged the Death of his Mother. He is at present in Germany, in the Emperor's Service.

[Page 143]There are here many Cabinets of Curi­osities, and a great number of skilful Anti­quaries. But it must be acknowledged, that Mr. Patin, Professor of Physick, excels all the Criticks in the World, in explaining the Intricacies of Antiquity. For 'tis cer­tain, that never any Man was Master of a truer and more judicious Taste for these Curiosities, of a more extensive Knowledge in all other respects, or of a more obliging and communicative Temper.

The Amphitheatre of Padua was greater than that of Verona, but there remains no­thing of it but miserable Ruines. I must further tell you, before I end my Letter, that I went lately into the Tennis-Court, and was very much surpriz'd to find the Walls white, and the Balls black, and Rackets as large as Sieves; but it is the Custom of this Country.

I am, SIR, Yours, &c.

LETTER XVI.

SIR,

IT was an extraordinary satisfaction to me to meet with your Letters in this place; besides the pleasure I had to learn [Page 144] good news of you; you have done me a singular kindness, in proposing Questions to me, about those things concerning which you desire to be most particularly inform'd. Assure your self, Sir, my best endeavours shall not be wanting to answer your Demands exactly: I entreat you to continue the same Method hereafter, that I may be better enabl'd to send you such Accounts as may be acceptable to your self, and those of our Friends, to whom you communicate them.

You desire me to tell you sincerely, whe­ther our present Travels be really pleasant to us, or at least whether the pleasure we take in them be not over-balanced by the trouble which they give us. I am not at all surprised that you should entertain such a doubt of it; for though we are not a­mong Wild Bears, or in the Desarts of Arabia, yet are we not without some diffi­culties. The Weather is very rough; the way of Travelling ordinarily unpleasant, and the days so short, that we get late in at Night, and rise very early: We oftentimes meet with hard Lodging, and worse Diet; and besides, we are exposed to many dan­gers. Nevertheless, with a good Stock of Health, Money, Chearfulness and Patience, we have surmounted these difficulties, even almost without taking notice of them. Custom makes all things easie, and is a so­vereign and universal Remedy. We take some days of rest when we think we want it: The variety and perpetual Novelty of [Page 145] Objects recreates the Spirits as well as the Eyes. A little weariness supplies the want of a Bed, and Exercise sharpens our Ap­petites. Offa & torus herbaceus, famis & la­boris dulcissimae medullae sunt. With good Furrs we defended our selves against the Cold, in spite of all the Frosts and Snows of the Alps: In fine, without alledging those general Reasons, which render Tra­vels profitable and pleasant, I will positively tell you, that the tenderest and most deli­cate Persons of our Company, have easily overcome all those Obstacles, which might hinder the satisfaction which we expected. Our stay at Venice will perfectly recruit us, and when we shall proceed on our Travels, the sweetness of the Spring will insensibly begin to succeed the rigours of the Win­ter.

As to the rest, I have let a whole Month pass without writing to you, since we arrived in this City, that I might more cer­tainly inform my self of the things with which I intend to entertain you. I will tell you nothing but what I have seen my self, or of which I have had particular Information. You are in the right to con­clude, that I will not undertake to give you a description of Venice; that would be a work too tedious, and foreign to my de­sign. Yet I will not affect to tell you only such new and singular things as were never mention'd by any other. Being willing to be ignorant what others have written; I will speak as an Eye-witness, and represent [Page 146] to you, as naturally as I can, the principal part of such things as I shall judge worthy of observation, without giving any heed to what others have said. You will per­ceive, that I take care throughout to answer your particular Questions: If you have forgotten any thing, you may acquaint me with it in your next Letters. Venice is so singular a place, look on it which way you please, that I have proposed to my self to consider it with care: I have filled all my Memorials; and I hope I shall be able to give a satisfactory answer to most of your Questions. But I must advertise you of two things, before I put an end to this little Preface. The first is, that I reserve some of the most notable Observations, to be com­municated to you on some other occasion. The other is, that I will not oblige my self to any order in my Observations, but re­late things as I chanc'd to meet with them, as I have already intimated to you in ano­ther place.

We parted from Padua on the twentieth of the last Month, and came hither betimes that Evening: There are many good Vil­lages on the way, and a great many Houses of Pleasure, which belong to noble Vene­tians, and were built by Palladio. The Ausbourg-Post brought us to Mestré, which is a little City on the Bank of the Gulf, Five Miles from Venice. I have read some­where in Mezeray's History, that the Adriatick-Sea was frozen in the YearOthers say in 859. 860, and that they went in a Coach from the [Page 147] main Land to Venice. As for us, we were oblig'd to take Gondola's at Mestré, and were about an Hour and an half on the Water.

That I may give you a true Idea of Ve­nice, VENICE, call'd the Rich. I must in the first place describe those Waters in the midst of which it is seated. The general Opinion of Geographers is, That Venice is built in the Sea, and this in some measure is true; nevertheless it re­quires Explication: It is certain it is not the Main Sea, but drown'd Lands, yet such as were drown'd before the Building of Venice; that is, at the least Thirteen or Fourteen Hundred Years ago. The great­est Vessels float in some places on those Waters, and there are Chanels by which those that are of no greater Burden than Two Hundred Tuns, can go up to Venice it self. The Sea there hath a free Com­munication with the Main Sea, by the Ebbing and Flowing Tides. The Oysters and other Shell-Fish stick to the Foundati­ons of the Houses of Venice and Murano, as they do in other places to the Rocks; so that I think it may be truly said, that Venice is in the Sea. Yet since 'tis plain that this drown'd Country was formerly a Marish; these Waters have but very little depth, and after all, this is not the true and ancient Sea: This Extent of Water is at Venice call'd only the Lake or Marish, and they gave it the Name of Lacuna; I observe that the greatest part of Strangers adopt this Word, every one disguising [Page 148] it according to his own Language, for want of a fit term to express it. Lacune hath another signification in French, which perhaps is the reason that they change here the C into G and call it Lagune. Tho' this be a barba­rous Word, and newly invented, yet I am resolv'd to make use of it, such as it is, rather than give my self the trouble to frame a better.

They have Mills, and other Machines, to empty the Mud and Ouse, which ga­ther continually, and discover themselves in several places, when the Sea is at the lowest Ebb: They have turn'd the Mouth of the Brent, and some other Rivers, to prevent their throwing of Mud and Sand into the Lagunes; and that the Earth may not regain from the Sea, which would be very prejudicial to Venice, whose Strength and Security consists in its Situation. It is true, that if this City is oblig'd to labour incessantly, to keep the Waters which en­viron it at a certain depth, to prevent its being re-united to the Continent; so it would not be for its advantage in every re­spect, that these Waters should have a great and general depth; because while things remain in or near the same Posture they are now in, it, is, in a manner, impossible to approach to Venice, either by Sea or Land. When Pepin, of whom we spake not long since, undertook to expel the Doge Mau­rice, and his Son John, who was his Asso­ciate. He parted from Ravenna with his Fleet, imagining with full Sails, to pass [Page 149] every-where. But whilst the Doge's Ships steer'd their Course through the navigable Chanels, without meeting with any Mis­fortunes, Pepin's Vessels stuck, and sunk in the Mud on all sides; so that after a great loss, he was constrain'd to fly with the Re­mainders of his wreck'd Fleet. It is mani­fest, that could this Fleet have passed eve­ry where with full Sails, this Expedition had succeeded better. It is about Three hundred and odd Years since the Genoeses receiv'd the like treatment.

I believe you do by this time sufficient­ly comprehend what is meant by these La­gunes of Venice: Represent then also to your self the City of Venice, which rises out of the midst of these Waters, with Thirty or Forty large Steeples, and is at least a League and an a half distant from the Land. It is certainly a very surprising Object to see this great City without any Walls, or Ramparts, to be beaten on every side with the Waves, and yet to remain on its Piles as firm as on a Rock.

I know very well that all Geographers have written, that Venice is compos'd of Seventy two Isles; I will not controvert so generally receiv'd an Opinion: But I must confess, that I can by no means conceive what these Isles should be; and I dare as­sure you, that this Account gives a false Notion of the Platform and Situation of this City. It would seem by this Descri­ption, that there were Seventy two little Hills, one near the other, and that these [Page 150] little Eminencies being all inhabited, had at last form'd the City of Venice, which is not at all probable. Venice is all flat, and built on Piles in the Water. The Water washes the Foundations of almost all the Houses, to the height of Four or Five Feet, and the Canals are always of equal breadth. 'Tis true, they have made the best use of several spaces, of a reasonable bigness, which may, indeed, give occasion to be­lieve, that there was formerly some Land there, but not Seventy two Isles.

For the Streets, they are very narrow, and seem to have been fill'd and rais'd with Mud and Rubbish; for it is not at all probable that they have natural Founda­tions; and besides, if all the Divisions which the Canals make, were reckon'd for Isles, we should find near Two hundred instead of Seventy two. It might be far­ther observ'd, that the number of these Isles might be infinitely increas'd, and new ones made in any place, by fixing Poles, and building Houses upon them. There are Eighteen, or Twenty such like Islands scatter'd up and down in the Lagunes, without counting Palestrina, Ma­malocco, and Eight or Ten others, which consist of solid Earth, and are truly Isles.

We are not to take notice of what is commonly said of the greatness of Venice; some give it Eight Miles circuit, others allow but Seven. As for me, I assure you Venice is neither Eight nor Seven Miles in [Page 151] compass. They reckon Five Miles from Mestré to Venice, which way we came in an Hour and an half, with Two Rowers; and we sail'd round Venice in the same space of time, with Two other Rowers, who made neither more nor less haste than those of Mestré. Judge then by this, of the Circuit of that City: Consider too, that our Gondola, was many times obliged to fetch a Compass, to avoid the little Capes which the City makes in several places, and by consequence the Line that it made was greater than the true Circuit of the City. Besides, to mark the Circumference of a City, without considering its Figure, is not a competent way to determine the largeness of its Content.This is what made Polybi­us say, That Sparta, which had but Forty eight Stades in compass, was twice as big as Megalopolis, which had Fifty. [A Stade contain'd 125 Geometri­cal Paces.] A very indiffe­rent Mathematician may demonstrate clear­ly, that a City which is near Eight Miles in compass, for Example, may contain a less number of Houses, than another City which is only Four Miles, or less if you please. This depends upon the regularity or irregularity of the Figure. This Truth, which is undeniable, is the reason that I never will never pretend to represent the bigness of Cities by the measure of their Circuit, for that might betray you into ve­ry considerable Errors. I shall ordinarily content my self with telling you, that a City is Great, or very Great; Little, or very Little: And I am persuaded that such Expressions as these, may give you a suffi­cient Idea of its Greatness.

[Page 152]The number of Inhabitants is another thing which is hastily determined, but sel­dom well examin'd. It is commonly re­ported at Venice, that there are Two or three hundred thousand Souls in the City, and some have advanc'd the number to Four hundred thousand; but we must not rely upon these Computations. When the Trade of Venice flourish'd, 'tis probable that the number of its Inhabitants was much greater than it is at present: But if we may give credit to the Report of a Person who hath been settled here for a long time, and assur'd me, that his Calculation is very exact; Venice doth not at present contain more than an Hundred and forty thou­sand Souls, comprehending therein the Isle of Giudeca.

Those who please themselves to represent Venice as a very populous City, take great care to inculcate, that it hath neither Gar­dens, nor void Places, nor Church-yards, and that the Streets are very Narrow: But when, on the other hand, they would describe the Beauty of Venice, they mag­nifie its Gardens, its Places, and the breadth and number of its Canals. I read the other Day in a Venetian Author, that he counted in Venice Fifty three Publick Places, and Three hundred and thirty five Gardens. Thus you may see how variou­sly things are presented. But to speak the Truth, there is both Truth and Falshood in either of these Reports; I will not di­spute but that there may be Fifty three [Page 153] Spaces, great and small, to which this Au­thor hath thought fit to give the name of Places; and the same may be said of his Gar­dens. But if we consider these Places and Gardens particularly, we must conclude him too prodigal of his honourable Titles. To speak properly, there is but one Place at Ve­nice, the famous and magnificent Place of St. Mark. But let us allow him the liber­ty to bestow that Name on Five or Six void Spaces more, which have some small Extent; yet all this comes far short of Fifty three Places. There are also some Gardens here and there, particularly on the side of Santa Maria del' Orto; but if we set aside Fifteen or Twenty, or should allow Thirty, or Thirty five, to deserve to be so call'd, I can positively averr, that the Three hundred which remain, would not, one with another, be Ten Foot square; and are not these very noble Gardens? Nor is the other Account exactly true; for besides that Venice may have Gardens and void Spaces, there are many parts of it very slenderly inhabited. It is true, in­deed, there are no Church-yards: And as for the Argument that is brought from the narrowness of the Streets, it is a petty Sophism, that may be easily refuted, by saying, that it is nothing but a bare Asser­tion. The Streets are streight and narrow, I confess, and so narrow, that the jostling of Elbows in the most frequented Places, is a great inconvenience; but I am of O­pinion, that the Canals ought to be rec­koned [Page 154] instead of Streets; and if the Ca­nals were fill'd and pav'd, there would be no reason to complain of narrow Streets in Venice.

But I must tell you, since we are on this Subject, that all the City is so mangled with these Canals and Streets, that there are almost no Houses but what you may go to by Water as well as by Land. Not that every Canal is border'd with a double Quay, as in Holland, for the conveniency of those who go on Foot: There are, in­deed, some of these; but very often the Canal occupies all the Space from one Range of Buildings to another. The Streets are in the little Isles that are form'd by the Canals; so that there is not any part of the City, to which one may not go either with or without a Gondola. 'Tis true, all these little Passages, and all the Turns that must be made to find the Bridges, do make Ve­nice a true Labyrinth.

The famous Place of St. Mark was the first Place which our Curiosity prompted us to visit, after our Arrival at Venice; and it is really the Soul and Glory of that City. The Church of St. Mark fronts one of the Ends of this Place, and that of St. Geminian the other; and the Procuraties or Lawyer's Offices and Lodgings, which are built with Marble, and are both very fine and regular, border the two sides of it with great Piazza's; which much en­large the Place, and at the same time con­tribute to its convenience. This Place is [Page 155] Two hundred and fourscore Foot long, and One hundred and ten broad. When you come from the Church of St. Gemi­nian towards that of St. Mark, and in­stead of entring there, turn to the Right­hand; the Place turns also in form of a Square; and this Second Place, whose ex­tremity reaches to the Sea, is Two hun­dred and fifty Paces long, and Fourscore broad: This is that which they call the Broglio. The Palace of the Doge is on one side of it, and the Procuraties are continu­ed on the other. All this consider'd toge­ther, makes an admirable Show, and may pass for a most magnificent Place.

The Tower of St. Mark is near the An­gle of the Square within, and does in some measure spoil the Symmetry of the place: This Tower is Three hundred and sixty Foot high, comprehending the An­gel, which serves for the Weather-Cock. It was formerly all over gilt, and when the Sun shined upon it, those at Sea might perceive it at Thirty Miles distance; but now the Gold being gone, it scarcely ap­pears. You ascend this Tower by Stairs, without Steps, like these which I have else­where describ'd; which is to be seen at Ge­neva. You may easily judge of the Beau­ty, Variety, and Rarity of the Landskip, which is discover'd from thence.

The Broglio is the Walk of the Nobles: they take up always one side of the Place; sometimes for the Sun, and sometimes for the Shade, according to the Season. As their [Page 156] Number is great, and they are ordinarily to be seen no where else, the Broglio is the general Rendezvous, where Visits are made, and most Affairs treated of. It is not per­mitted to mingle amongst them on that that side of the Promenade which they oc­cupy; but the other side is free. This place is so particularly destin'd, and set apart for them, that when a young Noble-man is come to the Age required for admittance into the Council, and to take the Robe, the first Day he puts it on, Four Noble-men of his Friends do ceremoniously in­troduce him into the Broglio; and when a­ny of them are banish'd the Council, the entrance into the Broglio is likewise for­bidden to them.

It was about the beginning of the Ninth Age, that the Merchants of Venice brought the Corps of St. Mark thither; they had, as is said, by I know not what chance, dug it out of the Earth, in the City of Alexandria in Egypt. And as there is a cer­tain Tradition, which tells us, that this E­vangelist being in Prison, Christ appeared to him, and saluted him in these Words; Peace be to thee, Mark, my Evangelist. The Senate of Venice receiv'd also the Body of the Saint with the same Words, when it was brought to their City: It is for this that you see them written upon the open Book, held by the Lion of St. Mark, in the Arms of Venice. You may imagine, there was great rejoycing for the possessi­on of the Relicks of this Evangelist; which [Page 157] it seems they could give no greater Testi­mony of, than by preferring him, as they did, to poor St. Theodore, the ancient Pa­tron of the Republick, who had not given them the least cause of Complaint. But they stopt not here; for besides divers o­ther Honours which they paid to the Bones of the New-comer, they built the above­mention'd Church to his Honour, where they placed that Sacred Treasure. It is true, they took so little care to distinguish the Shrine or Tomb, that they know not at present precisely where it is; which is no small Affliction to those who bear an extraordinary Devotion to this Saint.

I will not stop to tell you the History of his Apparition, (which, say they, happen'd Two Hundred and seventy Years after they had brought him to Venice) when he shew­ed his Arm to the Doge, and gave him a Ring of Gold, which is carried every Year in Procession, on the Twenty fifth Day of June. Nor will I tell you an infinite number of other Stories, which are made on this Occasion.

The Patriarchal Church is dedicated to St. Peter; and that of St. Mark, as rich as it is, is but a Chapel; it is the Doge's Chapel. The Primicerio, who is the Dean of the Canons of St. Mark, wears a Mi­ter and Rochet, as Bishops do, and de­pends not on the Patriarch. I have seen him officiate on Christmas-day in great Ce­remony; the Altar being adorn'd with most rich Pieces of the Treasury: He is [Page 158] always a noble Venetian, and his Yearly Revenue amounts to almost a Thousand Pounds Sterling.

The Church of St. Mark deserves an exact Description; but that is too great a Work for a Traveller: I shall therefore content my self with giving you some general Account of it. It is a Building Square, or almost Square, of aThe Church is a Cross shortned, Greek-wise. There are ma­ny Gothick Ornaments. Greek Structure, obscure, and indifferent high, but extraordinarily enrich'd with Marble, and Mosaick Work. The Roof consists of several Domes, and that in the midst ex­ceeds the rest in greatness. Of all the Sta­tues which are on the outside of the Church, there are but Two good ones; The Adam and Eve by Riccio, which you see when you descend the great Stairs of the Palace. I speak not of the Four Brazen Horses which are over the great Portal, because they are foreign Pieces which came thither accidentally. I learn­ed from one skilled in Antiquity, that these Horses belong'd to a Chariot of the Sun, that serv'd for Ornament to a Trium­phal-Arch, which the Senate of Rome erected for Nero, after the Victory of that Prince over the Parthians; which may be still seen, saith he, on the Reverse of some of his Medals. Constantine the Great carried them from Rome to Constantinople, where he plac'd them in the Hippodrome; and at last the Venetians having made themselves Masters of that City, brought hither ma­ny of its rich Spoils, of which number [Page 159] were these Horses. One may still perceive in some places that they were gilded.

One of the things which seems to me most remarkable in the Church of St. Mark, is the vast quantity of Mosaick Work, with which it is adorn'd. All the Pavement is made of it, and all its ar­ched Roofs are cover'd with it. Because you have not seen this kind of Work, and would have me to say something of it, I will explain it to you as well as I can. Mosaick Work came from Greece, but they tell us that the use of it hath been in Italy for near Two Thousand Years past. Vitruvius who lived in the time of Augustus, speaks of it under the terms of opus sectile, pavimenta sectilia, opera musaea & musiva: It was likewise called tes­sellatum & vermiculatum opus.

All Works compos'd of little inlaid Pieces, whether they be of Stone, Wood, Ivory, Enamel, or any other Matter; or whether they be Representations of Things Natural, or only Morisk or Ja­pan Figures; all these are comprehended under the name of Mosaick: So that there are many fashions of it. You know what Inlaid Work is; you have also seen the fine Works of Florence Stone; and to speak after a looser manner, all these are Mosaick. And that which makes the great­est Ornament of the Church of St. Mark, is, that almost all the Work is of this nature. For want of Natural Stones, which would be hard to find for a Work [Page 160] so vast, and which would take up an im­mense time to polish and prepare; They have recourse to Pastes, and compositi­ons of Glass and Enamel, which they make in a Crucible or Melting-Pot; this takes a most lively and shining Co­lour, which never wears nor stains. E­very Piece of the Mosaick of St. Mark is a little Cube, which is not above Three Lines thick, or Four at the most. All the Field is of Mosaick, gilded with most bright Gold, and incorporated in the Fire, upon the Superficies of one of the Faces of the Square: And all these Figures with their Draperies and Ornaments, are co­loured according to nature, by the due lay­ing together of all the Pieces of the Work. All these little bits are disposed according to the Design which the Workman, has in view, and are strictly adjusted together in the compound Matter, or Plaister pre­par'd to receive them; which presently after becomes hard. The best of this Work is its solidity. It is more than Eight hundred and fifty Years that it hath lasted, without the least diminution of its Beauty.

The Pavement of the Church is also exceedingly Curious; and tho' it hath been in many places very much spoil'd, and in some places worn, it may be thought a kind of Miracle that such great pieces remain still entire, after they have been trod under Foot for so many Ages. They are little pieces of Jaspar, [Page 161] of Porphyrie, spotted green Marble, and Marble of divers Colours, which make al­so Compartiments different from each o­ther.

I pass by the Relicks, the miraculous Images, and the other Holy Rarities which are in this Church; only I shall menti­tion one of them, which seems to me the most curious, viz. the Rock which Moses struck in the Wilderness; It is in the Chapel of—at the end of the Font; it is a kind of greyish Marble: No­thing is more pleasant than the Three little Holes out of which they affirm the Water issued: They are plac'd Triangular­wise, about Two Fingers from each other, and the Bore of each hole is no bigger than the hollow of a Goose-Quill. I as­sure you, it is a double Miracle, that so much Water, in so little Time, should is­sue out of such narrow Holes, as should suffice to quench the thirst of an Army of Six hundred thousand Men, with all their Wives, Children, and Cattle.

They made us observe a Piece of Por­phyrie, enchas'd in the Pavement, in the middle of the Portico of the Church, over­against the great Door; it is to mark out the Place wherein Pope Alexander III. set his Foot, as they say, on the Neck of the Emperor Frederick Barbarossa, when that Prince came to submit to him for the ob­taining of a Peace. I am not ignorant that Baronius and some others, have criti­cized this History, and rejected it as a Fa­ble: [Page 162] But I must tell you, by the by, since Opportunity presents, that what-ever probability may seem to be in the Reasons, they alledge, they cannot pass for more than Suspicions and Conjectures, and can never amount to a convincing Refutation of a Story attested by so great a number of Authors.

Alexander III. was a haughty Man, his Enemies had provoked him, and he at last had the Pleasure to Triumph over an Em­perour, and Four Anti-Popes. At the ve­ry time of his flight into France, he was so proud as to sufferLouys the young King of France, and Henry II. King of Eng­land. Two Kings who met him, to alight, and both to take the Reins of his Bridle, and lead his Horse to the Lodging prepared for him. If he did this in his Disgrace, what might he not do in his Prosperity?

From the Church of St. Mark, we went into the Treasury; Three Procurators of St. Mark are the Administrators of it; and it is never open'd, but in the presence of one of them. In the first place, you see there the Relicks, Pieces of the true Cross; the Bones of the Dead; the Hair and Milk of the Virgin, &c. From thence you pass into another Chamber, where the real Treasure is kept. The greatest part of the things to be seen there, were brought from Constantinople, at the same time with the Brazen Horses, which I mentioned before. I shall only name some of the most considerable Pieces.

[Page 163]The two Crowns of the Kingdoms of Candia and Cyprus; many fine Vessels of Agat, the Root of an Emerald, and of Crystal of the Rock: These Vessels, say they, belong'd to the Cupboard of Con­stantine; a kind of Seal Eight Inches deep, and as many diameter, made of one on­ly Granat; a very fair Saphire, which, they say, weighs Ten Ounces; Twelve Cros­lets of Gold, garnished with Pearls; Twelve Head-Tires in form of Crowns, which served in certain Ceremonies for the Maids of Honour of the Empress Helena to wear; a Cup of one onely Turquoise, with Egyp­tian Characters; this Cup is Seven In­ches in diameter, and Three and a half in depth: a Picture of St. Jerome, in fine Mosaick, consisting of Pieces that are not above one Line square; and many other most rare and rich things:Camerarius saith this Coro­net is not e­steemed worth more than Two hundred Thou­sand Crowns. The Duke's Coronet is, in my Opinion, the finest of them all; the Circle is of Gold, the Bon­net of Crimson Velvet, and the whole en­rich'd with Stones and Pearls of great price. Charles Paschal pretends to prove, that this Coronet is nothing but the Phry­gian Bonnet, or Trojan Miter, which An­tenor brought into this Country, the form whereof may yet be seen in divers Antick Pieces, as in the Statue of Ganymede, which is in the Porch of the Library of St. Mark; upon some Medals of the God Lunus; in some others where you see Aeneas carrying the good Man Anchyses; You may see the form of this Coronet in the Figure of the Duke. and in Miniatures of the Ancient Manuscript of Virgil in the Va­tican.

[Page 164]This Manuscript puts me in Mind of that which they call The Gospel of St. Mark, Mr. Payen hath written that it is of the Bark of a Tree; he hath been mis-infor­med, as well as P. Mesrie, who said they were Leaves. and is here esteem'd one of the most precious things in the Treasury. I had time to consider it by a particular Favour. It consists of old Leaves of Parchment, loosed from each other, worn, torn, de­faced, and so rotted with Moisture, and other injuries of Time, to which this Book, without doubt, hath been expos'd, that one cannot touch it without some bits stick­ing to one's Fingers; and it is a hard matter to discern any thing in it: This Manuscript was in 4to, about Two Fin­gers thickness. The Remainders of it are shut up in a Box of Vermillion, gilded, made in form of a Book. There remain still some traces of imperfect Characters, but so little that scarce any thing can be distinguish'd; but by turning over the Leaves, I found Three or Four Letters well form'd: I also met with the Word KATA, written as you see. I was with the Ab­bot Lith, Library-Keeper of St. Mark, and we search'd as much as we could, with­out being able to discover any thing, on­ly that the Margent was broad, and the Lines at a great distance, and ruled with Two little Parallel Scores, to make the Writing streight and equal: This KATA. with one Δ and one Σ, which I also ob­serv'd in it, prove that it is aAlfonsus Ciaconi [...]s positively affirms, that this Manuscript is Latin; and this was one of the Reasons upon which Baronius grounded his Opinion, that St. Mark wrote his Gospel in Latin. Greek Ma­nuscript. [Page 165] But the bare Tradition is not a sufficient Demonstration that it is the Hand of St. Mark: The manner of Wri­ting which I observ'd, makes me fansie that it's rather the Work of some pro­fessed Transcriber. As to the rest, we must rely on common Fame, to believe it a Gospel rather than any thing else, since it is difficult to decypher any Let­ters in itThis History is reported by Sabellicus, Garon, Larut­ti, and many others.. The Treasury was robb'd in the Year 1427, by a certain Candiot na­medStamati ha­ving made known his de­signed Robbery to one Zachary Grio, that Grio discover­ed the Affair, and receiv'd a great Reward; but the Theif was hanged be­tween Two Columns or Marble Pillars which are at the Entrance of the Palace, over-against the Loggietta. Louis Garon affirms the Theft was valued at Two Millions of Gold. They say, that the Well in the Court of this Palace cannot be Poisoned, because Two Ʋnicorn's Horns were cast into it. See To. II. Let. XXXVI. Stamati, who broke thro' the Wall; they recover'd every thing, but the Thief was sentenced to be hanged; and, they say, he begg'd the Favour of the Judges, that he might have a Golden Halter, which Civility they granted him. Against the Wall, over the first Door of the Treasu­ry, are two Figures in Mosaick, which, as they tell you, represent St. Dominick, and St. Francis, and which, they add, were made a long time before either of them was born, according to the Prophecy of the Abbot Joachim.

The Palace of St. Mark joins to the Church: It is a great Building, after the Gothick manner, yet 'tis very Magnificent: It hath been burned four or five times; and the various Reparations of it have spoiled the Uniformity of the Structure. The side which is on the Canal, is built [Page 166] of a kind of hard Stone, brought from Istria, and the Architecture of it is highly esteem'd: Were the rest of the Building suitable, it would be a most excellent Piece. The Duke is lodg'd in this Palace; and here it is that the Council of State and all the Magi­stracy do meet. The Apartments are large, lofty, and well wainscotted, but dark in comparison of the Light now a-days requi­red in Buildings. The Hall where the Bo­dy of the Nobles assemble, which, as you know, composes the Grand Council, in which the Sovereignty of the State resides, is extraordinary large, and adorn'd with Pictures; among which are the Portraitures of the Dukes; the History of the Con­quest of Constantinople, which was taken in the Year 1192, and lost about Threescore Years after; the Picture of Frederick and Alexander is there also, of the largest size, and they have not forgot the Circumstance of the Foot on the Neck. What I ob­serv'd on this Picture, gives me opportunity to add something to what I have already told you on the same Subject. I think we ought not to take it in a rigorous and strictly literal Sence, what is commonly said; That the Pope set his His Cloaths of Gold being laid down at the Feet of A­lexander, he begg'd Pardon, and the Pope putting his Right Foot on his Neck, said the Words of the Psalm, Super Aspidem & Basiliscum am­bulabis, & conculcabis Leonem & Draconem: At which Provocation the Emperour answer'd, Non tibi, sed Petro. And the Pope treading harder, said, Et mihi, & Petro. Theodor. Valle Lit. di Pip. ch. 10. The same Story is unanimously related by a Thousand other Authors. Foot on the Em­perour's Neck. This Action would become less odious, and easier to be believ'd, when [Page 167] it shall be compared to what is represent­ed in this ancient Picture. The Pope therein appears to put his Foot lightly on the Shoulder of the Emperour, without showing any Motion of Passion: And tho' the History of the Popes mentions a great Number of 'em as outragious in their Pride, Brutishness, and Rage; and tho' this Alexander, Proud as he was, and of a revengeful Spirit, might then be guilty of any thing; nevertheless an act of Violence on such an Occasion, amongst Strangers, in a Publick Place, and in the sight of all the People, would have been, if well weigh'd, contrary to the Policy, as well as the Gravity of God's Vicar; whereas, it was not only a noble Briskness, but also the Duty of him who supplies the Place of the Master of the Universe, and whose Government extends it self over all the Kings of the World, on such an Occasion to maintain the Dignity of his Character. It is true, that the Submission and Repentance of the Vassal, ought to have been receiv'd with a Spirit of Meekness; but it was just that he should not be acquitted for a sin­gle Reverence. It was requisite, as I have said, that the Lieutenant of Jesus Christ, should maintain the Interest of his Master, and that, at least, he should make his Power be known at the same time that he granted his Pardon. And if it be obje­cted, that all this Discourse is founded on­ly on the Fancy of a Painter, who hath represented this Story as he thought fit; I [Page 168] will answer first, that this is a meer preca­rious assertion. Painters do not always give themselves a latitude, nor do they or­dinarily do it to the prejudice of an impor­tant circumstance. And I must tell you in the second place, that it is more reasonable to believe this Picture, than to form chime­rical Notions to contradict it.

Some will perhaps alledge, that the Shoulder is not the Neck, but It hink it not worth the while to reply to so frivolous an Objection. I hope you will pardon this little digression, to which I have been in­sensibly engaged, by reason of the discourse we had on this Subject.

I have yet two things to relate to you, of the Palace of St. Mark, which, amongst others, seem very remarkable. The Rebel­lion of Bajamonte, Bajamonte Tiepele, in the Year 1210. the Story of which you know, was the occasion of setting up a little Arsenal in the Palace, to which there is a Passage from the Hall of the Grand Council, by a Gallery of Communication; to the end, that if there should be a Plot of the People against the Nobility, and they should enterprise any thing against them whilst they are sitting, they might readily find Arms to defend themselves. It is also, as I may tell you by the by, to provide for their Security, that they have built the little Judgment-seat called the Loggietta, which is at the foot of the Tower of St. Mark, in sight of the Palace, and of the Chamber of the Grand Council. There are always some of the Procurators of [Page 169] St. Mark there, upon the Watch, whilst the Grand Council is assembled, and at the same time are doing other business. This Arsenal is furnished with a competent number of Fusees and Musquets, which lie always ready charged, and a great many other good Arms. There is a Ma­chine which serves to light five hundred Matches at a time. Besides these, they keep there a quantity of curious ancient Arms, amongst which they preserve with great care, the Sword of the Valiant Scan­derbeg. I observ'd also there the Bust ofStrangled at Padua with his four Chil­dren, by order of the Senate of Venice, in the Year 1405. Francis Carrara, the last Lord of Padua, so famous for his Cruelties. They shew there a little Trunk or Toilette, in which are six little Guns, which were so ordered with Springs adjusted in such a manner, that upon the opening of the Trunk, the Guns fir'd, and kill'd the Lady, to whom Carrara had sent it for a Present. They show also with this, some little Pocket Cross-Bows, and Arrows of Steel, with which he made Sport to kill those he met, without their perceiving the Stroke, or him that gave it. There are also Locks, and sundry kinds of Bolts, with which that beastly Monster lock'd up his Whores. I must not forget the two little Statues of Adam and Eve, which Albert Durer made in Prison, with the point of a Pen-knife only, and for which he obtain'd his Liberty.

The other particulars which I shall yet observe of the Palace of St. Mark, are the Antick Mouths under the inner Portico; and [Page 170] in several places of the Galleries there are several Heads jutting out,The Discove­rers are some­times rewar­ded. They make them­selves known by a bit of Pa­per torn from the Billet and put into the Box. into the Throats of which any Body may cast a Letter or Note, as into a Trunk, to give what Ad­vice he thinks fit to the Inquisitors of the State. They have the Keys of these Boxes, and make use of the Notices they find, ac­cording to their Judgment and Equity. This is what they call the Secret Accusation.

The Library is in the Procuraties over­against the Palace, and on the other side of the Broglio; there are several Greek Manu­scripts in it, which were given by the Car­dinal Bessarion, who you know was a Grecian. I could not learn that there was any thing rare in this Library, only another Manu­script, De consideratione Dei, which they at­tribute to St. Augustin. I cannot tell what reasons induce them to believe it, but it is very certain, that the Title of this Treatise is not in the Index of Possidius. A Friend of mine, who hath travelled into Spain, told me, that there is in the Escurial, a Ma­nuscript-Treatise of Baptism, which also passes for St. Augustine's, and which is dif­ferent from that which we have of this an­cient: Doctor against the Donatists. They say in that Country, that Charles the Fifth refused fifty thousand Pistols for it. I be­lieve that poor Prince would have gladly taken them, when at his latter End he was forced to sell his Jewels. But to return to the Library; tho' it be none of the most numerous, rarest, and best condition'd Li­braries in the World; yet, to make amends, [Page 171] it is adorn'd with Pictures, by Titian, and some other famous Masters, which are in­finitely esteemed. There are also many Greek Statues of admirable Beauty, particu­larly the above-mention'd Ganymede, carried away by Jupiter, transformed into an Eagle; a Venus; an Apollo; and two Gladiators. They give out, that there are as many fine Pictures at Venice, as at Rome, and we have already seen good store of them: But this is a subject I pretend not to enter upon: I will only tell you, that the three most celebrated Pieces that are to be seen in the Churches, or in publick Places, are the Wedding of Cana, by Paul Veronese, in the Refectory of St. George Major. The Pre­sentation of the Virgin by Titian, in the School of Charity. And theThis St. Peter was a Domi­nican, and In­quisitor-general in Lombardy. He was knock'd on the Head with his Com­panions by some Sectaries whom he Per­secuted. This hapned near to Balassina, in the way from Como to Milan. St. Peter Martyr in St. John and St. Paul's, by the same Titian. Venice is perhaps the only City of Europe, where young Painters may best Study Nature it self. There are two Aca­demies, where there are always naked Per­sons of both Sexes to be viewed, and which are often on the Stage together, in what posture they please to put them. Every body may come in there, and you cannot believe with what boldness these little Crea­tures will endure to be gazed on by all the World.

I shall answer in a few words your Que­stion concerning the Flux and Reflux, by confirming, without doubt, what you have learned elsewhere. The Sea flows six hours, and ebbs as much: It is later [Page 172] every day by three quarters of an hour, or thereabouts, as upon the Coasts of the Sea you are acquainted with; and the Tide rises ordinarily at Venice four foot, or four foot and an half. But it is sometimes more, and sometimes less, as in all other places; and it agrees with the Moon, after the u­sual manner: I shall take care to impart to you the Observations I made all along the Gulf from Ravenna to Loretto.

The Shore is extreamly pleasant beyond those long and narrow Isles, which make as it were Banks on the East side, and which form a kind of Semicircle from North to South, round about Venice. This is properly called the main Sea: There you find Shell-fish, and the Walk is very diver­tising when the Weather is Calm. They get store of Oysters there, but they want the excellent savour of ours. They are looked upon as hurtful, and Strangers ab­stain from eating so many as in other places.

You have reason to say, that Policy and Liberty are two Words, which are in high esteem at Venice. But it must be allowed, that it is not the Venetians only who mag­nifie their own Policy. All the World, in my Opinion, doth acknowledge, that they endeavour'd to refine this Study, and have gained the point. This is an Opinion which I neither can nor will contest; I shall only offer two Observations touch­ing this Subject: The first is, that when we speak generally of the Policy of Venice, [Page 173] we run immediately to a consideration which fills our Minds with Prejudices. Be­fore we proceed to take a nearer and more exact view of this boasted Policy, we judge of it by a deceitful appearance of a false and ill-grounded Experience. The Re­publick of Venice, say they, hath main­tained it self for these twelve or thirteen hundred Years. What a wonderful thing is this, add they, and what greater proof can be desired of the Excellency of its Go­vernment? I say, that by resting here, without further scrutiny, they draw a false Consequence from an ill-grounded Princi­ple. To reason justly, after this manner of speaking, the Republick of Venice must really have always maintain'd it self under one and the same Government: One might then admire the wise and happy Conduct of its Counsels, which, by the various re­sults of their Prudence, had preserved their State for so long a succession of Ages. But the business will not go that way. To what purpose is it to dissemble, what is obvious to the sight and knowledge of all the World? The truth is, that the Govern­ment of Venice hath often changed its Con­stitution, without affirming what some maintain, that this Republick hath rendred Homage to the Kings of Italy. It is in vain to deny, that the Dukes were for a long time absolute Sovereigns; whether by Right or Usurpation, it matters not. The Republick of Venice was no more a Republick, when their Dukes commanded [Page 174] there with an Arbitrary Power, than the Commonwealth of Rome was a Common­wealth, under the first Caesar's, or during the Triumvirate. And therefore we must carefully observe the differerence between these two Propositions: The Republick of Venice maintained it self for twelve hundred Years; or, Venice was a State, or the Head of a State for twelve hundred Years. The first of these Propositions, in a strict sense, is really false; for the Reasons I alledged. The second is true; but nothing can be concluded from it. One might as well say, that Rome has been the Head of a State, for above two thousand four hundred Years, but could not from thence conclude, that the State of Rome had maintained it self during all that time; for to change its face and constitution, is not to maintain it self.

My second Remark upon this Policy, which makes so much noise, is, that the Signiory of Venice being confin'd within so narrow limits, in comparison of the great States of the World, and all the am­bition of this Republick; I speak princi­pally as it stands at present, being only to live quietly and peaceably with all the World; I see no necessity it hath of such great activity of Spirit, or high efforts of Wit, to maintain it self in quiet. When the Republick of Rome aspired to the Em­pire of the Universe, when it endeavoured to fill the World with its Colonies, and had already made so many Kings its Tri­butaries, [Page 175] and was to find out the Secret, to make it self both feared and loved by the Provinces it had newly subdued; then it was that Policy was necessarily required. But there is no such occasion for it at Venice. If the little Republick of St. Marin should make Rhodomontades of its Policy on the Broglio, do you not think it would justly be laugh'd at? And, without derogating from the Glory and Power that Venice hath several times acquired; it is certainly true, that Venice is no more to be compared to old Rome, than St. Marin can come in competition with Venice.

I might add, for a third Remark, that the wonderful Policy of Venice hath not hindred the many declensions into which that Republick hath fallen.

The Commonwealth's-men talk of no­thing but their Liberty; yet these poor People are Slaves to their Masters, as all other People are, under what Government soever they live: And, in the mean time, they stuff their Heads, with I know not what pretended notions of Liberty, as if every one of them were a little Prince. But it must be confessed, that the Inhabi­tants of Venice, have more reason than any to boast of theirs. I will tell you in two words, what that Liberty is: You must never in the least meddle with the Affairs of State: You must commit no enormous Crimes punishable by Justice, which may render you, by their notoriety subject to be taken notice of; and for the rest, you [Page 176] may do what you please, without troubling your Head with what People talk of you. This is the summ of the Venetian Liberty. I might tell you many things on this Sub­ject, very particular and scarcely to be be­lieved: But these reflections having already carried me too far, we will deferr the fur­ther consideration of 'em to another oppor­tunity.

To answer your Questions about the to­leration of Religions, I can tell you, that the Greeks, the Armenians, and the Jews, are allow'd the publick Exercise of their Religions; all other Sects are suffer'd or conniv'd at, but they order their Meetings after so secret and prudent a manner, that the Senate hath no reason to complain of the Abuses or Indiscretion of any Person.

Moreover, though the Worshipping of Images and Reliques, and many other Su­perstitions reign at Venice, it is only amongst the common People, to whom they are willing to grant these amusements. The eminent Wits care neither for this, nor any thing else. Formerly the Venetians were as simple as the rest of the Popish World. The Excommunications of the Pope scared them, and sometimes did them a great deal of Mischief. That of Clement V. for example, made a terrible pother among 'em, and spoiled all their Trade: But now they trouble not themselves about 'em, and the Liberties of the Venetian Church are at present as great as those of the Gallican. They take notice of the Pope as a Prince, but do [Page 177] not much regard him as Pope. When the Jesuites, who are the most potent support of that which they call the Holy See, would have submitted themselves to the order of Suspension, which all the Clergy of Venice had from Pope Paul the Fifth, they were drawn out as Enemies and Disturbers of the State. And tho' for some Reasons at the instant sollicitations of the Court of Rome, they were afterwards recalled; it was on condition that they should not raise Sedi­tions as they formerly had done. And even tho' they continu'd still to entertain such designs, the Republick knows how to order them: but considering the Precautions that are used, the toleration of the Jesuites at Venice can produce no ill Consequences: For, as I am told, they suffer none there but such as are born subjects to the State; and they assure me, that the Superiour must be a Native of the City. In a word, it is cer­tain that Messieurs of Venice suffer them­selves to be Governed neither by the Priests nor the Monks. Those Fathers are per­mitted to wear Masks during the Carnival, to treat their Concubines, sing on the Stages, and do what they please, but they dare not thrust their Noses into the Affairs of State. The Senate is wise enough to be sensible of the disorders which happen when they are permitted to meddle with the Government: Nor do they consult them when any thing comes under deliberation.

I have taken particular care to examine the Creed of the Greeks which are here, [Page 178] touching the Articles of which you write. But to speak freely, though I find them professed Enemies of the Roman Religion, and that they declaim furiously against the Usurpations of the Bishop of Rome, when they speak with freedom: I perceive by their Discourse, that whether by Contagi­on, or by some other reason they differ very much in many points from the other Greek Churches, which are at present under the Dominion of the Turk; at least if we may believe the relations of those Countries. So that the Opinions of these ought not to make us conclude any thing concerning the belief of the Greeks in general. To deal plainly with you, they declare that they believe Transubstantiation, which is not enough to determine the Question, which has made so much noise, and at the bottom makes nothing against those who will not admit that Doctrine. They make use of common Bread, they mingle Water with the Wine, and communicate under both kinds. There are two Altars in their Church, one which they call the Altar of Preparation, and the other of Consecration. On the first they cut the Bread with a Knife, like the Steel head of a Spear. There also they mingle the Water with the Wine, and the Priest takes it with a Sponge out of the Vessel in which it was first mixed, and afterwards squeezes it out into the Chalice. They embrace one another before they receive the Sacrament: And the Commu­nicants receive the Bread steeped in the [Page 179] Wine, the Priest putting it with a Spoon into their Mouths: All this we saw. The Arch-Bishop who officiated, had a Mitre fashioned like an Imperial Crown, and all his other Ornaments were magnificent; and they were changed from time to time, ac­cording to the several parts of the Service.

There are amongst them an infinite num­ber of Ceremonies and Mysteries. When the Bishop blesses the People, he holdeth in his Right-hand a Candlestick of three branches, with the Tapers lighted, which is as an Emblem of the Persons of the Trinity. The Candlestick which he holds in his Left­hand, hath two Branches, to denote the two Natures of Jesus Christ. I will not en­gage further into the confused number of these mysterious Representations. Their Churches are divided into four Parts; the Altars are in the place which they call Holy, at one end of the Church. There are none but he who officiates, and those who serve him who commonly enter there. The se­cond place is appointed for the other parts of the Service: The Men are in the third place, which is separated only from the se­cond by little Balisters, and the Women are behind a Lettice, at the other end of the Church, or in the Galleries. All the Ser­vice is perform'd in vulgar Greek, which is their natural Language, and understood by the People. They highly condemn the use of unknown Languages in the Church: They worship standing, bowing the Head, and putting their Hands on their Breast. [Page 180] Those who are married, may come to Ec­clesiastial Preferments without quitting their Wives: But those that are received before Marriage, are not afterwards suf­fered to marry. They say decency permits not a Person to marry above thrice; so that they forbid fourth Marriages. They deny Purgatory, and you know by what Principles: They pray for the Dead. There are very few here who believe a Temporary Hell from which the Elect are delivered; but they pray for the Souls which they say are in a separate State, expecting the last Judgment. The use of Confession is much practised amongst them, but not after the Roman manner. The Article of the pro­ceeding of the Holy Ghost, they put in the rank of those which are more curious than edifying; insomuch that it is now passed over with as much silence as former­ly it made noise. They keep certain Re­licks as precious and sacred Memorials, but render no Worship to them. I remember I have read in Thevet, That the Greeks of Athens solemnly excommunicate the Pope on Good-Friday. And the Monk Surras re­ports, That at Jerusalem they pray to God every day in a certain part of the Publick Service, that he would keep them still un­der the Dominion of the Turk, rather than suffer them to fall under that of Rome.

I have used all my endeavours to obtain some particular Information, concerning the Creed and Worship of the Armenians, that I might know it from the first hand; [Page 181] but I have not hitherto had an opportunity to get acquaintance with any of them, nor have I yet been present at their Publick Wor­ship, because they are at present at Work in the repair of their Church, and so cannot yet assemble there. One of my Friends, among other things, assur'd me of these four or five Articles. That they Communicate under both kinds: That they give the Sa­crament to little Children: That they be­lieve the sequestration of Souls as the Greeks do: That they give a Bill of Divorce: That they believe there will be no difference of Sexes after the Resurrection. And after all, there are so many particular Opinions a­mong all these People, that it is not easie to tell positively what they believe.

There are yet many particulars in my Journal, with which I might entertain you at present; but I had rather joyn them to those other Observations which I shall make hereafter, that I may have occasion to add also such new Instructions as I hope to receive.

I was just now with the Abbot Lith, whom I mention'd before; and it comes into my Mind to inform you, before I fi­nish my Letter, of a thing which he assured me of, and I should have been sorry to have forgotten, though it hath no relation to Venice. We were discoursing of the few numerous Families which are taken notice of here, in comparison to other places; and he told me, on this occasion, that one of his Kindred had twenty four Sons by one Wife, who were all marri'd; and that all [Page 182] the twenty four with their several Wives, had been seen in a Company together: Though there is nothing in this but what is very possible, yet is it a thing extreamly rare.

I hope I shall quickly receive one of your Letters: As for me, I will not fail to write to you before I depart from hence.

I am, SIR, Yours, &c.

LETTER XVII.

SIR,

THere are some Observations which I cannot forbear adding to what I have already sent you, concerning the City of Venice: For Example, the Bridge of the Ri­alto is a Piece so famous, that I must not forget to say something of it. Venice is divided by a great Canal, which is dispo­sed in form of an S, and about the middle of this great Canal, is the Bridge I am now to speak of. When they praise here the Structure of this Work, they breathe forth nothing but Admirations, and can find out no Terms but what are too weak for expressing their Thoughts; but all this is purely the effect of Prejudice. This [Page] [Page]

The Bridg of Rialto

Vol. 2. P. 182.

[Page] [Page 183] Bridge hath but one Arch, and all the Miracle consists in the Greatness of this Arch. I took care to measure it, that I might give you a certain Account of it. The Compass of the Arch makes exactly the third part of a Circle, and there are Ninety Foot from one End, or one Ex­tremity of the Arch to the other, on the level of the Canal: from which we may gather, that the Arch is near Twenty four Foot high. No Person will deny, as I conceive, that a great Building of any kind soever, deserves more considerati­on than an indifferent one; but in my Opinion, it must also be confess'd, that when they are both of the same nature, and there is not a very remarkable diffe­rence in their Greatness, there is nothing more incomprehensible in the one, than in the other. This here ought not to stand in Comparison with thoseThe Bridge of Civenchu in Japan is Three hundred and sixty Fa­thom long, and Six and a half broad. It is all built of a black Stone, which is hard, and polishes like Marble; it is supported by Three hundred Piles. Every Stone of the Arches is Eighteen Foot in length, and Four in breadth; and there is a Range of Lions of extraordi­ [...]ary bigness, on each side. The Bridge of Tinsem is not so long, but is more curious, as consisting but of one only Stone. Dutch Embassy to the Emp. of Japan. Part I. great Works, of which the bare undertaking, is, in some measure surprizing: It is an Arch of a Bridge, which is somewhat bigger than those that are usually made; and this is all the Miracle. I might also put you in mind of a Fault in the Structure of this Bridge, according to that Maxim in Ar­chitecture, That to give the greater strength to an Arch, it is necessary that its Com­pass make an entire Semi-Circle, whereas [Page 184] this makes but a Third part of a Circle, as I have already told you. But to speak freely, I cannot find any solidity in the Reasoning of those who establish'd this Principle. And I conceive clearly, that when an Arch makes any part of a Cir­cle, let the Portion be never so little, if the Semi-Circle do not wholly appear, yet it must be supposed, and really is, in the Piles or other Foundations which re­sist the Weight or Bearing of the Arch; and so comes to the same thing. To be fully convinc'd of what I say, one need but consider, that if an Arch which would describe an entire Semi-Circle, were wal­led up, and fill'd to such a height, that only the Sixth Part of its Circumference should appear; or if you will, a Sixth part of a Circle, this top of the Arch would loose nothing of the force it had before. The Bridge of the Rialto is very solidly built, with great pieces of a kind of white Marble; there are two Ranges of Shops which divide it into Three Streets, the great one in the midst, and the little ones between the Rails and the back-sides of the Shops. Generally the other Bridges have no Buttresses; they are single Arches. You go up to them by Steps, which are almost all of a certain white Stone, hard and slippery; which partly gave occasion for the Proverb that advises to beware of the Four P's of Venice, Pietra Bianca, Putana, Prete, Pantalone; the white Stones, Whores, Priests, and Pantaloons.

[Page 185]The best Houses of Venice are upon the great Canal; and there are some which appear veryAbove all the Palaces of Pisani, Moro­sini, Loroda­no, Rosini, Vandramino, Grimani. magnificent: These are great Bulks, which would have no Beauty, were it not for the Mask which I told you of in my Letter from Vicenza; I mean that Frontispiece which commonly consists of Two or Three Orders of Architecture, and which covers the Building on that side which is most in view; and the rest is ill order'd, and no way pleasing to the Eye, I mean the rest of their out-sides.

The Lagunes may cause you to judge, that the Air of Venice is unwholsome; but they assure us of the contrary. However they cannot say the same of the Water, which is almost all very bad. Of more than One hundred and fifty Wells which are here, there are but Two or Three good for any thing; and the best Water is the Rain-Water which some private Persons reserve in Cisterns. The common Wines are also very unpleasant; that which they call (dolce) sweet, is of a pall'd, disgustful taste; and the (Garbo) or sowre, on the contrary is extreamly sharp. After they have drawn off the pure Liquor, they mix Water with the Husks, that they may squeeze some sharpness from the Grapes, which give it some piquant briskness, but makes it very harsh; otherwise this mix­ture palls the Wine very much, and weak­ens it, which never had much Strength in it self. They have also a very ill way of making their Bread; Let it be as fresh as [Page 186] you will, the Paste is so hard, that you must break it as they do Bisket, with a Hammer. In other things you are well enough treated.

Strangers have so little Commerce with the Natives of this Country, that it is dif­ficult to learn their Customs, and Manners of House-keeping: Wherefore I can say very little concerning these things. I read the other day in a Preface of Henry Ste­phens, that in his time, they had an ill O­pinion in France, of a Woman who went Bare-Neck'd; whereas in Italy, and particu­larly at Venice, every old Hag expos'd her wither'd and swagging Breasts to view. But things are muchThere are none but pro­fessed Whores who shew their Necks bare. chang'd since his time. At present the Women of Quali­ty are shut up so close, that you can scarcely see their Face; not even in the Churches, which are the only places where they appear in Publick. When they go abroad, they are shut up in their Gondo­la's, and accompanied with Two or Three old Women, who never leave them. The ordinary Women cover themselves with a great Scarf, which opens only a little before their Eyes; and they go abroad but rarely, because the Men make Pro­vision, and take care of all Business with­out Doors.

They send the Girls to the Convent in their tenderest Infancy; and when grown up, they conclude their Marriages without their Knowledge; nay often with­out letting them see their future Husbands. [Page 187] That you may not be surprized at this, you are to know that they make not Marriages here on the same Accounts they do in other places. They never trou­ble themselves with Love, Affection, or Esteem. If any of those things happen, it is good luck; but they mind nothing but Kindred and Riches, not regarding the Person. The use of Concubines is so generally receiv'd, that the greatest part of the Wives live in good Correspon­dence with their Rivals; and that way the Men remedy the personal Faults of the Women which they marry. There is also another sort of keeping Concubines, very much used by those of tender Con­sciences; a thing in truth very rare at Ve­nice. It is a kind of clandestine Marriage, the Ceremony whereof is not perform'd a long time after the Consummation; and commonly some Days, or some Hours perhaps, only before the death of one of the Parties. The Men find this Method convenient, because it keeps the Women in perpetual awe, and constant complai­sance, being in daily fear of being turn'd off. I know a rich Merchant who hath lived thus for above Twenty Years with his Female Companion; when he is in a good Humour, he will promise to marry her before he dies, and make their Chil­dren his Heirs. But the most usual pra­ctice is, to live on the Common, at so long kept, so much paid, until the first desire of change, without fixing on any [Page 188] certain Person either for Wife or Concu­bine. Those who have not the Means singly to keep a Whore, join with Two or Three Friends; and this Plurality, which would in other places be insup­portable, does here make the Knot of Friendship firmer between Companions of equal Fortunes. Libertinism, in respect of Women, is turn'd to so common and gene­ral a Custom, that, to speak truly, it takes away all sence and remembrance of the Sin. As one of their finest Stroaks of Po­licy here, is to bring up all Persons in Ef­feminacy, and especially the young Nobi­lity: The Mothers are the first who find out Courtesans for their Sons, that they may be sure to hinder them from falling into Contagious Pits; and when they have agreed with the Father and Mother for some young poor Maiden; all her Kindred come, and in cold Blood, wish her Joy, as if it were for a Marriage lawfully con­tracted. You would be surprized to see a Mother deliver up her Daughter, for a cer­tain Summ of Money, Monthly or Year­ly paid; and swear solemly by God, and her own Soul, that she cannot afford it for less. We must not say that all Mothers will do the same, but certainly it is a thing commonly practised. I was infor­med by a good Catholick, that the Con­fessors will not trouble themselves with lit­tle Stories of this Work, they will not hear such Trifles, but ask presently, quatite altra cosa, something else. Besides, there are [Page 189] none but some Fools of Foreign Courtesans, who by a kind of nice Scruple which they bring from their own Country, have ac­custom'd themselves from time to time to hear a Mass. It is true, this costs them but little, because those they employ have re­ciprocally need of their Assistance; they are not unkind to each other; and it is not difficult so to order Affairs, that they may have no occasion to be out of Poc­ket. There are whole Streets of Ladies of Pleasure, who entertain all Comers; and whereas the Habits of other Persons are black and melancholy, these are cloathed in red and yellow, like Tulips; with their Breasts open, their Faces painted foot deep, and always a Nosegay above their Ears: you may see them by Dozens at the Gates or Windows; and the Passers by seldom 'scape them without a torn Sleeves.

The Carnival always begins the second Holiday in Christmas; that is to say, from thence they are permitted to wear Masks, and to open the Play-Houses and Gaming-Houses: Then they are not satisfied with the ordinary Libertinism, they improve all their Pleasures, and plunge into them up to the Neck. All the City is disguis'd; Vice and Vertue were never so well coun­terfeited, and absolutely change both Names and Customs. The place of St. Mark is fill'd with a Thousand sorts of Jack-Pud­dings. Strangers and Courtesans come in Shoals from all parts of Europe: There is every where a general Motion and Confu­sion. [Page 190] You would swear, that all the World were turn'd Fools in an Instant. It is true, that the fury of these Baccha­nals comes not presently to the height; there is some moderation in the beginning. But when they begin to be sensible of the dreaded Approach of the fatal Wednesday, which imposes an universal Silence, then it is that they celebrate their great Feasts, and all without revel on Shrove-Tuesday Mas­querade. Since it is true, that every thing must be attributed to the Policy of Venice, you must suppose there are particulr Rea­sons for the permitting this Licentiousness of the Carnival; and perhaps we need not search for any great Mystery. I shall in­timate Two things which come into my Head on this Occasion: The common Peo­ple always love Sports and other Divertise­ments. As abominable as that Monster Nero was, he was lamented by the Mobb, because of his Shows. I imagine then, that the Nobility, who otherwise are not well beloved, are very glad to find some cunning ways to please and amuse the People. There is yet another thing which seems to me of some moment. I am credibly inform'd, that at the last Car­nival, there was an account of Seven So­vereign Princes, and Thirty thousand other Foreigners. Consider how much Money all this Multitude must have brought to Venice.

I must, according to your desire, give you my Sentiment of the Opera's and Co­medies [Page 191] acted here; tho' in the mean time, I must confess my averseness to meddle with this particular; because I fear I shall in your Opinion be esteem'd too singular in mine. You seem to me to be possessed with great Prejudices in favour of these fa­mous Shows; and I fansie you expect something which may exceed the Idea you have already seen of them. I entreat you then, to set aside all your Prejudices, and to believe I will do as much; that I may be able to give you an impartial Ac­count of things as I found them. I will do it in few Words, without criticising on Opera's in general, in which I have al­ways been offended at some Passages which seem contrary both to Probability and Reason. But since you will have it so, we will suppose that all the Represen­tation of an Opera, is the best contrived thing in the World; and I will keep my self within the Bounds you have prescri­bed me, which is to speak to you with relation to Opera's which you have seen at Paris: It is undeniable matter of Fact, that the Ornaments of those here fall ex­treamly short of these; the Habits are poor, no Dances, and commonly no Ma­chines, nor any Illuminations, only some Candles here and there, which deserve not to be mentioned. 'Tis dangerous not to magnifie the Italian Musick, or to say, at least, any thing against it. Neither will I insist on this Subject, but confess, in the general, that they have most excellent [Page 192] Ayres, and that there are some good Voi­ces amongst them. Thus, for Example, the Vicentin Songster of the Hospitalettes is a little charming Creature. But I cannot forbear telling you, that I find I know not what Confusion and Unpleasantness in several Parts of the Songs in their Ope­ra's: They dwell many times longer on one Quavering, than in singing Four whole Lines; and often they run so fast, that it is hard to tell whether they Sing or Speak, or whether they do either or both to­gether. Every one has his Humour for me; I confess, amongst other things, the over-strain'd Shrill agrees not with me, tho' there be much trouble to reach it, and it be wonderfully grateful to the Ears of those People. The Concert is much less than at Paris, but perhaps it is never the worse for that. There is also one thing which charms them, which I be­lieve would not please you; I mean those unhappy Men who basely suffer themselves to be maimed, that they may have the finer Voices. The silly Figure, which in my Opinion, such a mutilated Fellow makes, who one time acts the Bully, and sometimes the Passionate Lo­ver, with his Effeminate Voice, and wrinkled Face, is not to be endured. It is impossible that Fellows of this Make can have Spirits necessary for the Beauty of Action; and indeed there is nothing more cold and feeble than the manner after which they act their Parts.

[Page 193]There are at present Seven several O­pera's at Venice; and one cannot choose but be there every Evening, if it were only but to find Company: But since you would have me speak ingenuously, I I must tell you, that we impatiently ex­pect the end of the Piece, before we have heard a quarter of it. You must know there is a Buffoon in every Opera: You may imagine what a Figure this Actor makes with his Fooleries in the most Serious, and even sometimes most Tragi­cal part of the Play. I will say little of their Comedies; all the World knows they are but ridiculous Fustain, and wretched Buffooneries, scurvily performed. Nevertheless, let them be never so silly, there is always some Grimace, with some Posture or Trick of Harlequin, that makes the Spectators laugh; the most luscious Bawdy is pronounced in the most ex­pressive terms, and the little Damsels of those Societies never mince the matter. When they are just ready to begin, they commonly open the Doors for the Mes­sieurs, the Watermen, who make a conside­rable Body at Venice, and are vrey necessary Persons. Their Office on this Occasion is to clap their Hands, and bawl out like Mad­men, to give from time to time Applause to the Actors. I cannot either express, or make you conceive what Terms they use when they congratulate the Women; who re­ceive also other Applauses, by Sonnets made for them, and printed, which you [Page 194] shall see fly from all sides of the Thea­tre. Before I finish this Article, I must tell you, that these Theatres belong to some Noble-men, who get considerably by them, tho' they continue no longer than the Carnival lasts.

The places which they call Ridetti, are properly the Academies of Basset: They are open'd at the same time with the Theaters; there are none but Noble-men who cut. They dismiss the Gamesters when they please; and they have so much good Fortune joyn'd to their Privileges, and good Play, that the Bank is almost always Fortunate. There are Ten or Twelve Chambers on a Floor, with Ga­ming-Tables in all of them. You can scarcely turn your self in them; but tho' the Throng is so great, yet is there a profound Silence. To come into these places you must necessarily be mask'd. The Courtesans come thither in Shoals; and the other Ladies also, who under their Masks may enjoy all the publick Pleasures of the Carnival; but they still are follow'd by Spies, or by their Hus­bands. Besides the Chambers of Play, there are some for Conversation, where they also sell Liquors, Sweet-meats, and such like things. They put not off their Masks; and by the Privilege of this Dis­guise, provided they be in good Cloaths, they may speak to the Ladies, even to those whom they may suppose of the high­est Quality: But you must injure no Bo­dy. [Page 195] Beside that the Mask is Sacred, one will seem to take no notice, who hears all that is said to his Wife, and who hath a great many Bravo's at his Heels, for by that name they call the Hectors and profess'd Murderers. Not that it is impossible to act a piece of GallantryIn the busi­ness of the La­dies, it suffices at Venice to have good Breeding, and Money, and sometimes to give a noble Treat. Anc. Des. of Venice. with the best guarded of them, when they are not over severe. As the Difficulty augments the Desire, so this Desire invents the Means; and those who understand the Practise of this Country, will do more with the Wink of an Eye, than in other Countries we can perform by the longest Assiduities: But all these things are out of my Sphere, therefore I must beg your leave to go on.

The greatest Masquerading is in the place of St. Mark; where the Crowd is sometimes so great, that one cannot turn himself: You may put your self in what Equipage you please, but to do it well, you must be able to maintain the Personage you represent. Thus, for example, when the Harlequins meet, they jeer one another, and act a thousand Fooleries. The Doctors dispute. The Bullies vapour and swagger; and so of the rest. Those who are not willing to be Actors on this great Theatre, take the Habit of Noblemen. Some Polonian Dress, or the like, which obliges them to nothing. Maskers are not permitted to wear Swords. The Women are Habited as they please, and are to be seen there in most magnificent Dresses. In the mean time the place is [Page 196] filled with Puppet-Plays, Rope-Dancers, and all sorts of such People as you see at Bartholomew-Fair. But those which in my Opinion are the pleasantest of all, are a kind of Almanack-makers and Fortune-tellers, who have their little Stages environ'd with Spheres, Globes, Astronomical Figures, Cha­racters, and Conjuring-Books of all sorts: these Pronouncers of Oracles have a long Pipe of Tin, with which they speak in the Ear of the Curious, who stand below the Scaffold. They speak more or less accor­ding to the Persons, and observe, without any notice taken, the Countenance of the Consulter: when they perceive he Smiles, and by some other gesture denotes his Ap­probation, they give over speaking a little, and ring a little Bell with wondrous Gra­vity, to make known, that by virtue of their Art, they have dived into a very secret Af­fair, or else that they have hit extraordina­rily right. When they swear only By God, it signifies nothing; that is only a common Road of speaking, which no body regards. But when they would be believed, they call to witness the Saint of Padua, or the most blessed Lady of Loretto, and then all the standers by look seriously and devoutly, and pull off their Hats, as when a Psalm is sung at the Gallows. It is pleasant to see the Priests and the Monks of all Orders, who take up the Tubes three quarters of the time.

[Page 197]I will say nothing of the Bull-baitings,Consult the Book of the S. Didiers. Goose-catching, Combats at Fifty-Cuffs, Balls, Races of the Gondola's, or of their Feasting on Shrove-Tuesday, on which day they cut off a Bull's-Head, before all the Senate, in memory of a Victory in Friuli. These Stories are too long to be related; nei­ther am I particularly acquainted with them.

Moreover, you must know, that the Car­nival is not the only time in which they wear Masks at Venice. They use 'em in all Feasts of Pleasure; with the Mask they run to the Audiences of Ambassadors: And on Ascension-day all are masked from the No­blemen in the Bucentaur, to the Mobb in the City. All these are admirable Times for the Gondoliers; not only because of the profit it brings them by their Gondola's, but because it is a time of Intrigues; and a Gondolier will undertake any thing. They know all the turns and by-ways; they pre­tend to know the critical Minutes, and the private Stairs, and to hold correspondence with the Waiting-Women: they furnish Ladders of Cords on occasion; they pro­mise in your Ear, to bring you to places esteemed otherwise inaccessible; they are for all uses, and would perform the Trade of Bravo's, if necessity required. Their great business is Pimping: They offer, with­out asking, to deposite a Summ of Money, and lose it, if their Wares prove unsound.

You may have Gondola's, either for so much to such a place, or at so much an hour, as you hire Coaches at London or [Page 198] Paris. But it is more convenient to keep one for your own use, and this costs but little: You may have one of the best for the value of five or six Shillings a day.They are from 30 to 32 feet long, and broad from 4 to 5. The Gondola's of Venice are very pretty things, they are light, and of a pleasant Make; you are very conveniently seated in them, under cover, as in a Coach, with Glasses on every side. The Left is the place of Honour; and the reason which they give, is, because he who sits on the Right-hand, cannot see the Gondolier before, and consequently cannot so easily com­mand him. These People are excellent Masters of their Trade; they turn, stop, and avoid, with surprizing readiness and facility: They stand up and manage the Oar in such a manner, that they have their Faces towards the Place they go to; where­as the Wherry-men on the Thames, and al­most every where else, sit down and ad­vance, by going backwards. All the Gon­dola's are black, by an Act of the State; and the little Chamber is also covered with black Cloath or Searge. But Strangers may have others, if they will be at the Charge, which seldom happens; few staying at Venice longer than the time of the Carnival. Lent is no sooner come, but all that mul­titude begins to dislodge: Travellers, Pup­pet-Players, Bears, Monsters, and Courtesans; I mean by the Courtesans, those whom Devotion brings from the Neighbouring Kingdoms; for they take care that none of their own Country prove Deserters. Be­fore [Page] [Page]

A Common Gondola

Vol. 2. Pag. 198

[Page] [Page 199] I leave the Gondola's, I must tell you, that those of the Ambassadors are extream­ly fine; they are greater than ordinary, and their Ornaments are as sumptuous as those of the most magnificent Coaches. These Ministers have commonly four or five; and it is in these Gondola's they make their Publick Entries.

The Arsenal of Venice passes for one of the fairest and greatest of Europe; and all the World agree, that it is a most important Piece. But it is to be considered, that it is the only one which the Venetians have in Italy; and all the Ammunition they have is stored up here: And besides, half the Stories that are told of it are not true.They show a Piece of Can­non which was made whilst a Duke was at Dinner, it is in the 22 d. Lodge. Henry the Third was Treated in the 23 d. and du­ring the time of the Colla­tion, they built one whole Gal­ley, and cast six Cannon. Payen. Those who show it would have you believe, that there are two thousand five hundred Pieces of Cannon, good Arms for one hundred thou­sand and Foot, compleat Equipages for twen­ty five thousand Horse: These are words soon spoke, but not so easily made good. You must further observe, that the inclosure of this Arsenal comprehends also the Maga­zines for the Vessels, Casting-Houses, Rope-Yards, Forges, Lodges for the Galleasses, Gallies, and the Bucentaure, besides the Havens and Docks for building and refitting of Vessels. This is what makes the extra­ordinary greatness of the Arsenal, they have some Ships of War, of which the greatest, which is called the Redeemer, hath, as they say, fourscoure Pieces of Cannon mounted, and fourteen Pateraro's; it is at present at Sea. The Galleasses have three [Page 200] Batteries in the Prow, and two in the Poop; the Crew ought to be one hundred ninety two Galley-Slaves, at six on a Bench. The Bucentaure is a kind of very great Gal­leasse, very much adorn'd with Sculptures and Gilding. The Duke, accompanied with the Senate, and a great number of the Nobility, every Year, on Ascension-day, goes on Board this Vessel with great PompAs if they became the Husbands of Thetis, or the Wives of Neptune, they marry the Sea every Year. Lewis Helian. Henry III. went from Ve­nice to Mura­no, in the Bu­centaure. Mezeray. to marry the Sea. That which they made use of when Alexander III. instituted this Ceremony, in confirmation to the Venetians of that Empire, which they said they al­ready had over the Gulf, was call'd the Bucentaure; and since that they have kept this name, and consecrated it to all the Vessels destined to that Ceremony. The Captain of the Bucentaure makes Oath the day when he is received, and engages his Life that he will bring her back safe and sound, in spite of all Winds and Tempests whatsoever.

It was burned before in 1507.The Arsenal was in great part burnt, in the Year, 1565. and they say, that the cracks of the burning were heard at forty Miles distance. There are three Noblemen who govern it; and the Galleasses are also commanded by Noblemen: All conside­rable Employments passing through their hands.

I acknowledge it is not an easie matter to return particular Answers to the several Questions you propose, concerning their Dignity, and the great Figure they made in the World. You know that at Venice, [Page] [Page]

A Bucentaure

Vol. 1. Pag. 200

[Page] [Page 201] as well as elsewhere, that which they call Nobility, according to the common Ex­pression, consists but in Fancy and Opini­on, as all other things in the World do. It is true, that the Noble Venetians are born with some Character of Sovereignty; be­cause they compose the Grand Council, which forms and animates all the other Councils; and on this score they deserve some consideration. But after all, this reason is not satisfactory; for the Nobles of Genoua may boast of the same Priviledge; Things become of Worth, by the value which is put upon them: And the Noble Venetians are distinguished, because they knew how to distinguish themselves. They have found it worth their wile, to push on the value and honour of their Nobility, be­yond all estimation. They have sometimes compar'd it with that of Princes of Royal Blood. They pretend that it swallows up all the Titles that are assum'd by others:Henry III. of France recei­ved the Qua­lity of a Noble Venetian. Alexander likewise ac­cepted the Title of Burgess of Corinth. And even some Crowned Heads have en­nobled it, by not disdaining to receive it. See by what methods they arrived to this degree of Honour. Moreover, though there are not two sorts of Noblemen at Venice, yet they bear not all equally the Grande supércilium, which Juvenal speaks of; the Commands, the Offices, great Wealth, and ancient Extraction, make new di­stinctions among them. And though, as I told you, they value their Nobility at an infinite rate, yet nevertheless you must not from hence conclude, that this Title may [Page 202] not be communicated for a certain Summ, when the great necessities of the Republick require it.

The Nobles never appear publickly at Venice, but in their Robes of black Cloth; these they wear at all times, and they ought to be lined with greyish Cloth in the Win­ter, and Ermins in the Summer. The Stole is of the same Cloath. The Girdle is black also, four Fingers broad, and gar­nished with Plates and Buckles of Silver; and their Bonnet is only a kind of Cap of black Worsted, with a little Fringe of the same: But they wear great Perukes, and commonly carry their Cap in their hands. The Procurators of St. Mark, the Savii grandi, and the others, who are possess'd of the highest Offices, have Habits to distin­guish them. Those amongst the Nobles, who have been Ambassadors may wear a Stole of Cloath of Gold, and put Buckles of Gold to their Girdles: But ordinarily they only adorn their black Stoles with a little Gold Galloom. The Physicians, Ad­vocates, Notaries, and all those which are called Cittadini, are habited like the Nobles, without any distinction. It would not al­ways be pleasing to these to be known by their Habits; for such a distinction might expose them to great dangers, should any disorder happen. They cause themselves to be treated with Excellency, and the man­ner to salute them with great submission is to kiss their Sleeve. The Elbow of this Sleeve is like a great Sack, and into that, [Page 203] those who go to Market put their Provision. They are not followed by any Servant, and no Person salutes them, but he who knows them, except those who wear the same Robe. The People fear them and love them but little; but I will not say that this proceeds from any ill Treatment they re­ceive from them. Friendship grows com­monly from Converse; we may then sup­pose it is because the Nobles make them­selves familiar with no body. They dare not make themselves popular, for fear lest they should be accused of Caballing against the State. This same reason hinders them to visit each other; and renders them inac­cessible to Foreigners. You must confess, that this savage and sower Policy is very troublesome. It is hard that a Govern­ment cannot be happy without destroying the bands and communications of Society, which are the chief Pleasures of this Life! I must further tell you, on this Article, that the Nobility is not entail'd to the El­der Sons only, as in England. They are not permitted to Trade, nor to marry with Foreigners.

I am not surpris'd at the trouble those Titles of Marquesses and Counts give you, which you hear spoken of in the Countries depending on Venice. I will explain the matter to you. The Noble Venetians pre­tend to be equal to Princes, but never qua­lifie themselves by any particular Title: And the Marquesses and Counts which you tell me of, are no Noblemen of Venice. [Page 204] These Gentlemen are of three sorts; Some of them really enjoy'd these Dignities, be­fore they became Subjects to this State, but they have lost the Priviledges of their Titles, and keep only the Name. They have al­ways taken care at Venice to humble them, and to take from them all means of think­ing to shake off the Yoke, or return under the Dominion of their ancient Masters; and one of the ways which they have ob­served for this, hath been to create Counts of a new Stamp, who make head against the others, and so take away the distinction by a confusion of Titles, which have the same sound. The other advantages which Venice draws from this Invention, would make here too long a digression; only I have inform'd you what are the Mar­quesses and Counts of the second Order. Those of the third are founded on some Pretensions of their Ancestors. If they were not altogether Counts, in the time of the ancient Government, they had at least a great desire to be so. And when the face of Affairs was chang'd, they made themselves Counts, I know not how, with­out any endeavours used to hinder them, because they got no real advantage by it.

I find that you are misinform'd in some particulars relating to the Duke. You must conceive, that the Duke, consi­dered as Duke, is but a meer Figure of a Prince, an animated Statue, and a Chi­mera of Greatness. It puts me in mind of those Two Persons which at the Co­ronation [Page]

The Doge of Venise

Vanitas Vanitatum

[Page] [Page 205] of your Kings, bear the Name of the Dukes of Aquitain and Normandy. It is so far out of the Duke's Power to Par­don any Criminal, as you have been per­suaded, that you may assure your self his new Quality diminisheth his Credit very much, if it doth not absolutely reduce it to nothing. It is true, that the Duke is encompassed with many Marks of Honour, but none of those properly relate to him: They belong only to his Representative Quality, like the Privilege which Ambas­sadors have to be cover'd when they speak to Kings to whom they are sent. The Duke is the Representative of the Repub­lick, whose pleasure it is to reflect its Glory upon him, as it were to ease it self of the trouble of it; yet appropriating to it self all the Honours he receives. And those Honours which the Quality of Duke brings with it, fall not upon him who is in­vested with it, but to be immediately transfer'd to the State, which seems to have only set him up for this Purpose. This is so true, that to hinder the Duke from abu­sing those Honours which are only to pass from him, as through a Canal, they give him Counsellors, who have a constant Eye over him, and can visit his Closet every Hour. He cannot take a Journey to the Continent, without permission of the State; and when he goes, tho' with leave, all his Honours vanish there, and he hath no more Authority than another Noble-man. From the first Moment of his Election, [Page 206] all his Kindred who were in Offices are immediately turn'd out: And when he dies, the State wears no Mourning. See, Sir, what Idea you ought to have of the Duke of Venice. I will farther add, that if, maugre all the Care they take to curb his Power, he should endeavour to break out beyond his Sphere, such Orders are ta­ken as would presently restrain him. The Duke is as much subject to the Laws, as the meanest Person; and the Inquisition of the State is a Scourge, which seems to threaten him more particularly than o­thers. I suppose you are acquainted with the unlimited Power of this Tribunal, which you must reckon to be as rigorous and severe, as the other Inquisition at Ve­nice is patient, and free from rigour and severity.

To return to the Duke: You must know, that notwithstanding all his Slave­ry, and his little Authority, his Quality of Duke allows him two or Three small Pri­vileges. He hath two Voices in the great Council: He bestows the little Offices of the Palace; and he hath the Nomination of the Primicerio, and Canons of St. Mark. As for his other Honours, they are given to the Republick, in the Person of the Duke. In this sence he is call'd Prince, and treated with Serenity, which is a term of Honour above that of Highness, according to their Interpretation. There are some Marks of Royalty in his Apparel. When he marches in State, they carry a Torch [Page 207] before him,This Chair hath two Arms, and no Back. a Folding Chair, the Cushi­on which belongs to it, and Eight Silver Trumpets, some Hoboys, and Eight Stan­dards, on which are the Arms of Venice: There are Two White, Two Red, Two Violet, and Two Blue, which, 'tis said, signifie Peace, War, Truce, and the League. They made us take notice, that the Two Red ones marched first; be­cause the Republick was at present in War. When it was at Peace, the White ones have the precedency; and so the rest in order. They carry also near the Duke, a kind of Cloth of State, made like an Um­brello. The Duke is ordinarily accompa­nied with the Nuncio, and the other Am­bassadors which are at Venice, except the Ambassador of Spain, who never assists at any publick Ceremony, since this State gave the Precedency to the Ambassador of France. These Ministers have their Hats on their Heads. As for the Duke, he never pulls off his Coronet but on one of these two Oc­casions; either at the moment when the Host is elevated, or when he receives a Visit from a Prince of Royal Blood, or from a Cardinal. I must tell you, that the Cardinal sits in the same great Chair with the Duke; this Chair having a Spring and Machine made on purpose to let it out so as Two may sit together: The Duke gives the Right-hand to the Cardinal. But to return to the Procession: The Principal Senators march after, and the Sword of State is carried before them, to [Page 208] denote that the Authority resides in the Council, not in the Duke. I am not well enough inform'd of the particulars of the rest of this Procession, to give you an exact Description of it; but it is not very material. I must farther acquaint you, that the Money bears the Name of the Duke: That the Letters of the Confede­rate Princes and States are addressed to him: That he gives Audience to Ambas­sadors, and that Declarations are publish'd in his Name. These last Particulars need some Explanation: The Name of the Duke is, in truth, on the Money, but his Arms are not; and his Image is there only Historically. This Money is pro­perly the Coin of Venice. On the Reverse is the Duke on his Knees, at the Foot of the Primicerio, who sits and represents St. Mark. The Duke takes an Oath of Fidelity to him, having one Hand on the Mass-Book, and with the other re­ceiving the Banner of the State. By this you may perceive that this is no Honour to the Duke; and that his Image has no more Marks of Authority than that of the Primicerio. As for the Letters of Princes, the truth is, they are directed and presented to the Duke; but it be­longs not to him to open them, with­out first communicating them to the Coun­cil; that is to say, the Council receives them by his Hands. And it is much the same thing with respect to Ambassadors; For the Affair is consulted before, and the [Page 209] Answer is so well put, Word for Word, into the Mouth of the Duke, that if any of them happen to forget, or perhaps to make a willing Mistake, they are astoni­shed to find themselves corrected on the Spot. As to what concerns Acts of State, he is but tht Herald; the Senate enacts, and the Duke publishes.

It must then be confessed, that if in any case Gold and Purple are but glaring Page­ants; and if the Grandeurs of the World are but Chimera's and stately Yokes; the Duke of Venice is an Eminent Instance of these Truths.

I have, in obedience to your Desire, insisted the longer on this Particular: Do not think that I have reveal'd to you any Mystery, in the things which I have said of the Duke: Though they are not conformable to the Idea's you had conceiv'd, nor, perhaps, to those of the greatest part of the World; they are all generally known here.See what Mr. Amelot hath written of it. I will not med­dle with the Article of Government, that would be too tedious and difficult a Subject for me to undertake; who nei­ther have Time, nor Intelligence suffi­cient to be fully instructed in so many things.

I will briefly answer your Questions concerning the Patriarch. He is elected by the Senate, and confirmed by the Pope; and his Quality gives him, as you may believe, a very eminent Rank; but his Authority is extreamly bounded. The [Page 210] Curates are chosen by the People;The Curates are elected by the People of each Parish. The Day of E­lection, the Competitors present them­selves, exalt­ing their own Merits, and defaming their Antagonists. G. Burnet. If the Election be not made in Three Days, the State no­minates. the Patriarch can nominate only to Two or Three Benefices: And the Clergy in ge­neral, to speak properly, acknowledges no Superiority but that of the State. This Prelate is cloathed in Violet Colour; he is always chosen out of the Nobility: I am assured that he only stiles himself at the beginning of his Orders; N— divina miseratione Venetiarum Patriarcha. N— by the Mercy of God, Patriarch of Venice: And adds not, as others do, & sanctae sedis Apostolicae gratia; And by the Grace of the holy Apostolick See. The Venetians desire nothing more, than wholly to free them­selves from the Authority of that which they call the Holy See. As to the rest, there needs no more Knowledge, nor Per­sonal Merit, to be Patriarch, than to be Pope: these are things not required in this Case; it is Interest and Intrigue by which this Dignity is obtain'd, as it is the Habit which makes the Monk. It is al­so incredible how much Ignorance and Dis­order reigns in this Country, among all those who call themselves Clergy-men. The Cardinal Barberigo, Bishop of Padua, who is a venerable Old Man, and a wise Person, sometimes take the Pains, as they say at Padua, to preach himself against these Abuses. He introduces as much as he can, the Custom to make the Priests understand a little Latin. And his Zeal hath extended so far as to double the Grates of some Nunneries in his Diocess, [Page 211] in hopes they will follow his Example at Venice, where the Parlours, or Speak­ing-places are of too easie Communicati­on: But all this produces but little; they do not willingly give Ear to such Spoilers of good Company.

I must in the mean time tell you, that I remember a very pleasant Secret which was found out here, in behalf of some Priests that are Musicians. You know it is a Law without Exception, that a Priest must be a Compleat Man; nevertheless, it hath been observed, that this Perfection of the Body is sometimes a cause of the Unpleasantness of the Voice; and, on the other side, the Sweetness of the Voice is of great use to insinuate things the better into the Minds of People, both in the Church, and at the Opera: They have found a Mean to accommodate the Affair, and have concluded that a Priest fitted for Musick, may exercise the Priesthood as well as another; provided he hath his Necessities, or, if you will, his Superfluities in his Pocket. I will not be bound to produce the Act for this Regulation, which certainly was only given vivâ voce. But let that be as it will, I can positively assure you from my own certain Know­ledge, that what I have told you is Truth.

Father Mark Aviano, Mr. Scheibler a Lutheran Minister, in the County of Juliers, hath writ a Book con­cerning the Miracles of this Capuchin. And you may see some Stories of him in the Treatise of J. Zwingerus Prof. in Divin. at Basil, de festo Corporis Christi. whom I mentio­ned [Page 212] in my Letter from Ausbourg, is at present here: I went twice or thrice to hear him preach, but could not get ad­mittance. One must go three or four Hours before, if one intends to get a Place. The Devotion of the People is so great for this pretended Miracle-monger, that at first they tore his Cassock, and pull'd off the Hairs of his Beard, and had certainly pull'd him to Pieces, that they might get some Relicks of him, if his Friends had not bethought themselves to make a Hole in the Church-Wall; by which he enters in a Chair thro' a Galery, which leads directly thither from a neighbouring House, and so preserved him from these foolish Devotees.

It is just I should add something of the famous Frier Paolo: All that I could learn concerning him among the Friers Servites, was, that they hold his Memo­ry in great veneration. But to tell the Truth, those who spake of him to me, knew but little of him, as I might judge by their Discourse; they telling me, that they knew not where his Body was, but God would discover it in due time. They have preserv'd the Dagger, which this great Man call'd the Roman Style, on so just and true an Occasion. This Dagger is to be seen at the Feet of the Crucifix which is upon the Altar of St. Magdalen.

I should never make an end, should I undertake to speak of the Churches, the [Page 213] Cabinets of Curiosities,See divers o­ther Remarks upon Venice, at the begin­ning of the Second Tome. Among the Ca­binets, you may particu­larly see those of the Palace of Rosini; of the Procurator Justiniani; of the Family of Capello; of M. G. Barbaro; of Messeur Morosini Grimani, Justinia­ni Garzoni, and Zani; of the Baron de Tassis; of Dr. Bon; and of Francisco Rota. Spon. and an hundred other things; but I shall content my self with what I have said at present. We are resolv'd to lie to morrow Night at Padua, where we have secured a Coach to carry us to Loretto. The Frost, which hath continu'd for two whole Months, hath so dried the Ways, that we hope to jogg on easily. I expect at Rome to hear News from you: Pray let me not be dis­appointed of my Hope; believe that I am sincerely,

SIR,
Yours, &c.

LETTER XVIII.

SIR,

THere is not any thing worth Ob­servation between Padua and Rovi­go, only that the Country is Plain and Fruitful, watered with many Rivers, and well cultivated. It is every where full of Meadows, Groves, Vineyards, and well­till'd Spots of Ground. The Venetians have there some Houses of Pleasure; but the common Habitations, when you draw [Page 214] near to Rovigo, are but Huts made of Reeds, which a Fire would reduce to Ashes in less than an Hour; yet are they as merry there as in a Palace. We saw often come out of these Cabbins, whole Troops of Maskers, dancing Gambols to the Tunes of the Violin and Bagpipe. These Country Crews perhaps are to be preferred before the Rabble of Venice.

ROVIGO. Rovigo is a poor little City, begirt with a Wall just falling to ruine: Yet it is the Residence of the Bishop of Adria. That ancient and famous City, which gave name to the Gulf, being now but a pitiful half­drowned Village.

FERRARA. Ferrara is very great, and pretty hand­some, tho' ill peopled. Some say it was called Ferrara, as if ferè auren, half Golden, because of its rich Trade: But at pre­sent it is so poor and desolate, that it cannot be view'd without Compassion.In the Year 1570, in For­ty Hours time Ferrara suf­fered One hun­dred and sixty [...]olts of an Ea [...]thquake, and was al­most all destroy­ed. Schrad. In a place where Four great Streets meet, we made a short stop, without perceiving any one Person in any of them. It is gene­rally acknowledged, that this City hath more Houses than Inhabitants. In the mean time, the Ferrarese is one of the best Parts of Lombardy; it is a plain and fat Country, which wants nothing but Til­lage. You know this Desolation is an ef­fect of the Severity of the Government.Servierent tibi, Roma, prius Domini Dominorum. Servorum Servi tibi sunt, jam Roma Tyranni. All that falls into the Hands of the Popes, presently becomes Miserable. Commonly [Page 215] these old Princes are constrained to do a great deal of Work in a little time, to en­rich their Families; they care little what becomes of the Estate after their Death. When Ferrara was united to their Demesnes, under the Pontificat of Clement VIII. that Pope built a very strongDu Val writes, that this Cita­del cost Two Millions of Crowns of Gold. Citadel, which is still in good Order. As for the other Fortifications, they are wholly slighted. The ancient University of Ferrara is at pre­sent reduced to a paltry College of the Je­suits.

Near the Cathedral, there are some Sta­tues on Horse-back, of Brass, of which one, they say, represents a Duke of Boz­zolo. Over-against the Palace of the No­bility, you see also the Statue of Duke Her­cules II. on Horse-back; on the Pedestal of which, there is a Decree engraved, which grants a Refuge or Sanctuary to Crimi­nals for Twenty Paces round about.

They carried us to the Ducal Palace, to the Marquis de Villa's House, to the Ca­thedral, and many other Churches and Convents. But tho' all these places have their own Beauties, I believe the Descripti­on of 'em would not be very pleasant to you; yet will I not forget to send you the Epitaph of poor Ariosto: They have lately repaired his Tomb in the Church of the Benedictines.

Notus & Hesperiis jacet hic Ariostus & Indis,
Cui musa aeternum nomen Hetrusca dedit.
[Page 216]Seu Satyram in vitio exacuit, seu Comica lufit,
Seu cecinit grandi bella Duces (que) tubâ.
Ter summus vates cui summi in vertice Pindi,
Tergaminâ licuit cingere fronde comas.

They carried us also to the Opera, where we saw nothing extraordinary. The prin­cipal Actress was a little pretty Songstress, of Twelve or Thirteen Years old; who that day was to make the first Essay on the Theatre; and according to common Report, was that Evening to enter into the Service of one of the principal Gentle­men of the City. All the chief Boxes were filled with Jesuits, and such like People.

RAVENNA.It is fifty Miles from Ferrara to Raven­na; the Way continues good for the first Day's Journey, but afterwards becomes low, and full of Water, between the se­veral Branches of the Adige and the Po. The Towns and Villages which we saw on the Road, deserve not to be mentio­ned. Ravenna is but half as big as Ferrara, yet it appears at a great distance, being si­tuated in a flat and open Champion Coun­try. You are not ignorant that the anci­ent Geographers represent its Situation like to that of Venice, upon Piles in the midst of Waters. And all the World knows that it was formerlyClassem My­seni alterum Ravennae ad tutelam superi & inferi ma­ris. Suet. in Octav. c. 49. the Principal Haven which the Romans had on the Adriatick Gulf: But this Place hath suffer'd great Alterations since those times; for not only the Lagunes are dried up, but the Sea is also retired [Page 217] Three Miles from it; and these Plains, formerly drown'd and barren, are at pre­sent the most fruitful Fields in Italy. It is not to be doubted but that the present Ravenna is in the place of the ancient Ra­venna; as it appears evidently from several ancient Monuments. There are in the Walls towards the Sea-side, many great Rings of Iron, which formerly ser­ved to fasten the Vessels: And you may yet see the remainders of the Beacon. This City hath been so often ruin'd by the Wars, that there are but few Marks left of its first Antiquity: It is at present poorly built, and very thinly peopled, as well as Ferrara; nevertheless I found it in many things worthy of Observation. Its Situation alone, in respect of the wonder­ful Change which hath happen'd in its Ter­ritory, I think deserves a Man's travelling this way.

Without the Walls, near the ancient Haven, there is a Mausolaeum, which Amu­lasuntha erected for her Father Theodoric, King of the Ostrogoths; who, as you know, made his Residence at Ravenna. They have turned this Building into a little Church, which they call the Rotonda. The most remarkable thing about it is, the hewn Stone with which this Church is cover'd: I measured this Stone, and found it to be thirty eight Foot in Diameter, and fifteen in Thickness. The Tomb of Theo­doric was on the top, in the midst of this little Dome, between the Statues of the [Page 218] Twelve Apostles, which were placed on the sides round about. These Statues were broken during the last Wars of Louis XII. and the Tomb which is of Porphyrie, was also over-thrown: They have since set it in the Wall of an Ancient Palace in the City, where we saw it.

The Cathedral is an old Church, the Body of which is supported by fifty six Pil­lars of Marble, of the Archipelago, which make a double Range on each side. The Choir is vaulted with fine Mosaick; and they keep there in great Veneration, one of the Stones with which St. Stephen was stoned. But the greatest Curiosity in this Church is the great Door: It is made of Planks of Vines, some whereof are twelve Foot high, and fourteen or fifteen Inches broad. The Ground hereabouts is so a­greeable to the Vines, in that very place which the Sea formerly covered, that it makes them grow prodigiously big. I have read, as I remember, in the Voyage of Olearius, that he found near the Caspi­an Sea, the Bodies of Vines of the thick­ness of a Man.

They shew in the Church of the Thea­tines, a little Window over the great Al­tar, in the midst of which is the Figure of a White Pigeon, which is placed there for a Memorial; that after the death of St. Apollinarius, first Bishop of Ravenna, the Priests being assembled to choose his Suc­cessor, the Holy Ghost, as they say, came in at that Window in the Shape of a [Page 219] Dove, and perch'd upon him who was to be Elected: They add, that the same thing happen'd Eleven times after, successively; but since that time, they have done their Business without super-natural assistance. Platina after Eusebius, tells the like Story of the Election of Pope Fabian.

There are very fine Pieces of Marble and Porphyrie in the Churches of St. Vital, St. Apollinarius, St. Romualdus, and St. An­drew; all these were brought from Greece, and probably during the time of the Ex­archie.

The Tomb of Galla Placidia and Daugh­ter to Theo­dosius the Great. There is another Tomb of this Prin­cess in the Church of St. Aquilin at Milan. She it was who founded this Church. G. Tor., Sister to the Emperours Arcadius and Honorius, is in the Church of St. Celsus, between those of Valentinian and Honorius. They assur'd us, that this is a very fine Monument; but we could not see it, he who had the Key being absent. We saw the Tomb of the PoetDante Da­lighieri, a Florentin, a Man of Quality and great Merit, died in Ex­ile at Ravenna, in the Year 1321, and the 56 Year of his Age. Dantes, in the Cloyster of the Conventual Franciscans. I transcribed the Epitaph, principally for the Curiosity of the Rhimes, which is as follows:

Jura Monarchiae, superos, Phlegetonta, lacus (que)
Lustranda cecini, voluerunt fata quous (que)
Sed quia pars cessit melioribus hospita castris,
Factorem (que) suum petiit felicior astris:
Hic claudor Dantes, patriis extorris ab oris,
Quem genuit parvi Florentia mater amoris.

[Page 220]Another:

Exiguâ Tumuli Danthes hic sorte jacebas,
Squallenti nulli cognite pene situ.
At nunc marmoreo subnixus conderis arcu,
Omnibus & cultu splendidiore nites.
Nimirum Bembus musis incensus Hetruscis,
Hoc tibi, quem imprimis hae coluere, dedit.

There is in the grand Place a very fair Brazen Statue of Pope Alexander VII. And you may see at the other end of the same Place, Two Columns, upon which were the ancient Patron, and the Arms of Venice, whilst Ravenna belong'd to that State; it being their Custom to erect the like Co­lumns in all the Cities of their Demesnes: But the Pope hath put on the same Pil­lars, the Statues of St. Victor, and that of Apollinarius, which are the Patrons of Ra­venna. They made us observe near this, under a Portico, the Gates of Brass, and some other Spoils which those of Raven­na took from Pavia; and which they pre­serve for a Memorial of the happy Suc­cess they had there.

A good Hour from Ravenna we entred into a Forest of Pines, which is Four Miles long, and whose Pine-Apples, they told us, are distributed all over Italy. The Sea is not far off, on the Left-hand; and on the Right are those Marshes, which reach out of sight towards the Ap­pennine. After we had passed the River [Page 221] Savio in a Ferry-Boat, we travers'd the little City of Cervia, CERVIA. which is in the midst of a miserable Boggy Country, where they make nothing but Salt. We stopp'd to Dine at Cesenate, Cesenate. on the Sea-side; and Three Miles from thence we found our selves on the Banks of the Ru­bicon, which they also callOthers say this is the Frumicino, about Two hun­dred Paces from the Pisa­tello. Pisatello. I confess I was not a little surprised when I saw our Coach pass that famous Brook without any stop; tho' I had learned also from Lucan, that it was no great River.

Fonte cadit modico, parvis (que) impellitur undis.

An Hour after we took our way by the Sea-side. The Sand is firm and even, without any Rocks or Shells: We pursu'd this Way till within a Mile of Rimini; where we were oblig'd to go within Land, that we might pass the River formerly called Ariminum, of the same Name with the City whose Walls it washes: But at present it bears the name of Marechia.

Rimini is a little poor City;RIMINI. yet the Country is rich, and well till'd. Sigismond Pandolphus Malatesta formerly fortified it; but its Wall is at present in great disor­der. You know the Malatesti's were for­merly Lords of many places in this Pro­vince. The Bridge of Marble, on which there are two very entire Inscriptions, by which it appears that it was built by Au­gustus and Tiberius, and the Triumphal-Arch erected by Augustus, are the two principal [Page 222] Monuments of this City. There are also to be seen the Ruiues of an Amphithea­tre, behind the Gardens of the Capuchins. And Five hundred Paces farther, with­out the City, there is a Tower of Brick, which was the Pharos of the ancient Ha­ven; but the Sea is fallen back half a Mile from this Place, and the Pharos is at pre­sent encompassed with Gardens. P. Ma­latesta finished the Destruction of the Har­bour, which was once accounted one of the best in Italy, to build the Church of St. Francis, with the Pieces of Marble which he took from thence. This Church, were it finish'd, might pass for a fine Structure. They keep there a Nostre-dame, which serves for nothing but to bring Rain, or stop it, when there is either too much or too lit­tle. She never is asked any thing but on one of these two Occasions.

The Library of the Count de Gambalon­ga is very numerous, but there are no Ra­rities in it, if we may give credit to him who showed it to us. They made us ob­serve in the midst of the Market, a kind of Marble Pedestal, on which these words are engraved: Caius Caesar Dict. Rubicone su­perato civili bell. Commilit. suos hic in foro Ar. adlocutus. The Statue of Paul V. in Brass, is in another Place; and near to that a Fountain of Marble of excellent Workman­ship.

Departing from Rimini, we march'd on the Downs for Fifteen Miles, between the Sea and the Fields. I observ'd as we pas­sed [Page 223] thro' the Village Catholica, Catholica. over the Portal of the great Church, an Inscripti­on, which says, That a Council of Bi­shops, almost all Arrians, being assembled at Rimini, in the Year 359, the Ortho­dox perform'd their Devotions in this Vil­lage, which hath ever since born the Name of Catholica. You know the History of this Council, if it may be properly so call'd. We perceived Ten or Twelve Miles from thence, towards the Appennine, the City and Republick of Marin; on the top of a Mountain, at the Foot of which are the Limits of that State. This little Swarm of Bees hath maintained it self very happily for many Ages; not be­ing expos'd to the Envy or Jealousie of any of its Neighbours. It is about Six or Seven Miles from Catholica to Pesaro: All this Country is strewed with fine Houses, and is very pleasantly cultivated.

Pesaro is greater, better built,PESARO. neater and pleasanter than Rimini: Its Situation is up­on a small Ascent, which gives it a purer Air, and better Light: Nothing can be more pleasant than the little Hills which surround it: It is a delicate Mixture of Pastures, Vineyards, and Orchards: The Olives are admirable; but the Figs in good­ness and esteem surpass all other Fruits: The Figs of Pesaro are famous over all Italy. The best Meat costs not above three Bayoques the Pound, which is Eigh­teen Ounces; that is to say, somewhat less than two Farthings. The Bread and the [Page 224] Wine are proportionably cheaper; and so of the rest. The Sea and the Rivers furnish it also with all sorts of excellent Fish; so that in all respects this City is excellently pro­vided with all things necessary for Life. It is tolerably well fortified, tho' something after the old fashion; and the Houses are generally handsome. We found no old Monuments in it. There is a very fair Fountain in the great Place; and a Statue of Pope Urban VIII. under whose Pontifi­cat, this City, and all the Dutchy of Urbin, were re-united to the Ecclesiastical State.

At our departure from Pesaro, we coast­ed along the Shore for Seven Miles, as far as Fano: FANO. It continues, still as I represented it on the other side of Rimini, excepting that the Sea brings thither great Heaps of Walnuts, Chesnuts, Rushes, Leaves, and divers other things which probably come from the Rivers, and are driven back from time to time by the Wind. One of our Company found on the Strand one of those little Fishes which they call in this Coun­try Cavaletto; some call it in France, Che­val Marin, or the Sea-Horse; and others the Little Dragon. I have often seen it in the Cabinets of Curiosities; and I believe you also know it. It becomes drie in a little time, by which means it is easily pre­served, without farther trouble. It is cer­tain this little Creature hath something of the Head and Neck of a Horse. They at­tribute many Properties to it; and they [Page 225] assured us, amongst other things, that it cures Madness from biting by a Mad-Dog, being eaten roasted, and applied to the bitten place, skinned and beaten with Honey and Vinegar.

Fano is a pretty little City: We found nothing remarkable in it but one Trium­phal-Arch; the Inscriptions of which are almost quite defaced. This Arch hath Three Gates, whereas that of Rimini is on­ly a single Arch. They boast of the Pig­nuts of Fano; and pretend that the Wo­men there are the handsomest of all the Country; but I fansie this pretended dif­ference may be a little suspected.

A Mile from hence, we passed on a Wooden Bridge, about Five or Six hun­dred Paces long, over the several Branches of the Pongio, which drowns all this Ex­tent, when the Snow on the Appennine begins to melt: And afterwards we took the Way on the Sea side, for Fifteen Miles, to Senegallia. Tho' this be an old City,SENEGAL­LIA. yet could we find no Marks of its Anti­quity; it is enclosed with good Walls, which are defended by some Bastions, but all very irregular.

By good fortune, and rather because of our weariness than any thing else, we re­fused to go to see a Play, which was act­ed at the Governour's House. The next Morning, which was the Day before Ye­sterday, they came to tell us, that a little before the end of the Play, the Arch which supported the Theatre, with part of [Page 226] the Stage, and the first Seats, fell under the weight with which it was over-loaded: That thirty Persons were killed on the spot, and a great many others wounded; and all that little City was in a great disorder, and unspeakable affliction on this occasion: There scarcely being any considerable Fa­mily which had not its share of this mis­fortune.

Departing from Senegallia, we entred a­gain on the Shore, and travelled seventeen Miles, without finding any Houses but an old Castle, and some Taverns about an hundred paces from the Sea. Near the little Village called the Turret, we fell back into the Land-way for three Miles to Ancona, ANCONA. where we now are. This City is seated on a double Hillock, at the point of the Pro­montory. It is bigger than any one of the four or five Towns last mention'd, but not much richer; though its Haven be very good,Traders of all Religions may dwell at An­cona, provided they make no publick Exercise of any, besides the Religion of the Country. They whiten Wax very well at Ancona. Du Val. and the Country about it very fruitful. It is a wonderful thing that the Trade is quite ruin'd, in a place which was formerly so famous for it.

'Tis true, that after the like example of Antwerp, we ought not to be surpris'd at any accidents of this nature. The Streets of Ancona are narrow, and consequently dark: There are neither fair Houses, fine Churches, nor considerable Places in it; and its situation, up Hill and down Hill, ren­ders [Page 227] it very inconvenient. The Citadel, which is on the first ascent you come to, commands both the City and the Haven. And on the other Hill which makes the point of the Cape, is the Church of St. Cy­riack, to which we ascended with a great deal of trouble and little satisfaction. It is a low and dark Edifice, of which the Front is cover'd indeed with fine Marble, but without any order or ornament of Archi­tecture. That which is principally esteem'd in this Church by the People of the Coun­try, are the Bodies of the pretended Saints, and the number of Relicks. They boast they have St. Ursula, as well as those of Cologne. As for us, what pleased us best, was the prospect which we had of the Sea, of the City, and of a pleasant Country. At the entrance of the Mote there is a Tri­umphal-Arch of very fine white Marble. This Arch was erected for Trajan, by order of the Senate. The Inscription, which is still very entire, let us know, that it was in acknowledgment of this, that that Prince repair'd the Harbour at his own charge. They told us, whilst we were considering this Monument, that, I know not what Monks had oftentimes earnestly requested, that they might employ the Materials for some use in their Convent: And that at last they were fain to drive them away with Threats, to be rid of their Impor­tunity.

The Exchange where the Merchants meet, resembles a Portico of a reasonable [Page 228] bigness. There were at the four Corners of the Arch, four Statues, which repre­sented Faith, Hope, Charity, and Religion. But there happen'd an Earthquake some Years since, which shook all these Statues, and threw down that of Religion.

I cannot forbear giving you some ac­count of the Habits, which, thanks to the Holy-day, we saw here to day. The prin­cipal Burgesses usually wear a black Cloak, lined with green; blue or fillamott Stock­ings, Shoes whited with Chalk, and tied with coloured Ribbon; the Doublets un­button'd, adorn'd with Embroidery of se­veral Colours, and great Sleeves to their Shirts, which hang down to their Fingers ends. The ordinary Citizens Wives and Daughters wear a kind of Coif on their Heads, with a long Fringe which covers their Faces, and drives away the Flies like Horse-trappings. The body of their Gown is red or yellow, fastned on four sides with Laces, and all overlaid with coloured Ga­loon: The Wastcoat short, their Petticoats of the same size, and all of fifty Colours: The great Madams are deck'd and trimm'd up as much as they can after the French Mode: But to say truth, their Apishness is more ridiculous than the others natural Dressing. All this does neither good nor hurt; but there is another Custom which, as we were inform'd, runs from Ferrara al­most all over Italy, and is very inconvenient, especially at this time of the Year. They know not what Glass is, and their Cham­ber-Windows [Page 229] are made of Linen or Paper, always torn; so that they are fain ro invent Machines every Evening, to shelter them­selves from the Weather. This made us sometimes bewail the loss of our Straw in Germany, where, if we wanted Beds, we had at least a good Stove, well heated and closed. To compleat our Misfortunes, they com­monly brought us a Fricacy of three Eggs, or as many Pilchards, for the Supper of five or six Persons. You must Fight for your Victuals, and yet pay as much as for the best Cheer. The set Price was at so much a Head, three Julio's for Dinner, and four for Supper, which comes to aboutAbout fifty Sols, French Money. Poly­bius relates, that in his Time (about the Year 550.) they had a good Meal in Italy for a Denier. Hospites, viatoribus honestè acceptis, & omnibus ad victum necessariis abunde subministratis non amplius quam siliquem capiunt; haec oboli tertia pars est. four Shillings a day.

I am inform'd the Post is just going, which makes me finish my Letter, that I may not miss the opportunity of sending it to you. I will add only one word, touch­ing the flux and reflux of the Sea. You must know, that it is more or less obser­vable, according to the distance from the bottom, or extremity of the Gulf. At Venice the Tide rises four foot and an half, or thereabouts, near to Ravenna three, at Pesara two, and one almost at Ancona; so that at last it decreaseth to nothing.

[Page 230]I hope we shall arrive at Loretto to mor­row about Noon. You may assure your self, I shall use all means necessary to give you an exact account of the Santa Casa.

I am, SIR, Yours, &c.

LETTER XIX.

SIR,

I Believe there is not in Italy a better Country, and worse ways, than be­tween Ancona and Loretto; we got thither yesterday like poor Pilgrims, weary and dirty, having been forced many times to alight to ease the Coach.

All the World hath heard of our Lady of Loretto: But since discourses concerning her are various, and the matter of it self very curious; I intend to give you an a­bridgment of all that I saw or learned on this occasion.

The House which they here call, Sacra­tissimo Sacello Gloriosa Cella. Domus aurea. Domus sapientiae. Vas insigne Devotionis. San­ctuarium Dei. Propitiatorium Altissimi. Civi­tas refugii. Puteus aquarum viventium. Ter­ror Daemonum. Spes desperantium. Gloria Je­rusalem. [Page 231] Tabernaculum foederis. Solium gloriae Dei. Sacrarium Divinitatis, &c. Sacrosan­ta Casa, is, say they, the same in which the Virgin Mary was born, where she was betroth'd and marri'd to Joseph, where the Angel saluted her, and where the Son of God was Incarnate.John Carta­geno, in the Book, Intitu­led, Arcana di Maria. E tanta è la dignità di questo luogho, cosi sublime la Maestà, ch'a a tutti i sacri luoghi, che sono sotto il Cielo, e pre­ferito, il sacello di Loretto. That is, And so great is the Dignity of this place, so sublime is its Majesty, that before all the Holy Places under Heaven, the Chapel of Loretto is to be pre­ferred. This House being at Nazareth, was transported by the Angels, as they say, in­to Dalmatia, Terribile é questo luogho quali altro non e che ca­sa di Dio & porta del Paradiso. Ja­cobin, l. 1. c. 1. and there plac'd on a little Mountain called Tersatto, the 10th. of May, in the Year 1291. It had remain'd there but three Years and seven Months, when the Angels took it away again, and brought it to the middle of a Forest, in the Terri­tory of Recanati, which is in the Marqui­sate of Ancona. The celestial Melody a­wakened the Inhabitants of the Neighbour­hood, who run from every side, and saw the Miracle, by the favour of a great Light, with which the little House was surrounded. Nature her-self leaped for Joy, and the very Oaks of the Forest, bowed themselves to pay Homage to it; they wanted only Tongues like those of Dedona. After this House had been there Eight Months entire, it was displeased with the Thieveries and Murders committed thereabouts continual­ly; so that it was carried the third time a [Page 232] Mile further to the same Hill, on which it now stands: but it was no sooner come thither, than a Controversie arose between two Brothers to whom the Land belonged, each being willing to have it in his Lot. This was the cause, that four Months af­terwards the Angels lifted it up the fourth time, and placed it some paces from thence, in the very midst of the Road-way; from whence it hath never stirred since. It is true, to prevent the inconveniencies to which this place, as well as the others, ex­posed it, and perhaps also to prevent the misfortune of a new change: They built in this very place a magnificent Church, in the midst whereof it remains free from all manner of Insults or Injury. And for its better preservation, they have since e­rected four Walls, which encompass it, and close it up as in a Box, without touch­ing it at all, for fear, lest the two Walls being united, they should one day be con­founded together. Some alledge another reason of this Seperation; and say, That the Stones recoiled with violence, and woun­ded the Work-men, when they would have joined it to this Holy Building; so that they were constrained to leave some space between them. All the beauties of Pain­tings, Sculpture, and Architecture, were display'd on that occasion; or at least all the most curious Workmen in the begin­ning of the last Age, were employed in this Work. It is of Corinthian Order, and of white Marble of Carrara, with extraordi­nary [Page 233] fine Basso relievo's, in which all the History of the Virgin is represented: There are also two Niches, the one above the other, between the double Columns. In the ten Niches below, are the Statues of the ten Prophets, and in the Niches above, the ten Sybils.

It is within this that the Santa Casa is enclos'd, which consists of one only Cham­ber, or rather one single Hall. It is forty four Palms long within, eighteen broad, and thirteen high; a Palm and an half making just thirteen Inches, English mea­sure.

They would have those very People who live on the place, believe, that this House is built of some unknown Stones, to make its Voyages seem more probable; but this is an absurdity that can only be swallow'd by such as are willing to be deceiv'd. I ex­amin'd the thing twice very nearly, and at leisure. 'Tis true, they have purposely made choice of Bricks of different shapes and unequal bigness, yet I perceiv'd very distinctly, that these Walls are made of Brick, and true Brick; together with some flat and greyish or reddish Stones, which are all common. The whole is built with Lime and Sand, as our ordinary Houses, but the Pieces are ill joyned, and ill ranged, which seems to evince, that this work was done in haste.

I will here make a little digression, to acquaint you with a thought which comes in my Head concerning it. It was under [Page 234] the Popedom of Boniface VIII. that this pretended Miracle happen'dIt is he who, they say, rais'd himself to the Papal Dignity like a Fox, liv'd like a Lion, and dy'd like a Dog. It was he who invented, and first wore the Triple Crown. Intravit ut vulpes, reg­navit ut leo, mortuus ut canis.. And if you make any reflection on the Life of that famous Fox, which all Histories represent to us as the most Cunning, the most Am­bitious, and most Covetous of all the Men in the World, and add to these Considera­tions, that of his Power and Authority, you will grant, without difficulty, that he was a Man fit to undertake such a Cheat as this: After he had feigned Angels who frighted the good Man Celestin, his Prede­cessor, and obliged him to return to his Hermitage, after his Abdication of the Popedom: And it is not at all improbable, that he made use of the same Angels for the Expedition of Loretto. But let us re­turn to the Santa Casa.

You may comprehend, by what I have said, that you cannot see the outside; and consequently what I speak of must be within. The Mason's Work is almost all open to view, but there are some frag­ments of Plaister covered with Painting, which might make one guess, that all the Walls were cover'd with it. The Image of the Virgin holding the little Jesus between her Arms, appear in five or six places in the remainders of the Painting. This Holy Tabernacle is situated from East to West, though this manner of building Churches is but little in fashion in Italy: Towards the East is the little Chimney of the Chamber, and over it, in a Nich, is the great Lady of Loretto. They say this Image of our [Page] [Page]

The Lady of Loretto.

Vol. 1. Pag▪ [...]

[Page 235] Lady is of Cedar Wood; and they have been inform'd by a thousand Revelations, that it was the Workmanship of St. Luke; she is four foot, or thereabouts in heightShe hath a great number of Robes for change, and seven different Mourning Ha­bits for the Holy Week. When ever they dress or un­dress her, they do it with a great deal of Ceremony.. The Ornaments with which she is deck'd, are of an inestimable value. Her Triple Crown, which is all cover'd with precious StonesThe King also gave a Crown to the Infant., was the Present of Louis XIII. King of France. They told me this Di­stich was Engrav'd thereon.

Tu Caput ante meum cinxisti, virgo, Coronâ,
Nunc Caput ecce teget nostra Corona tuum.

On each side of the Niche, there are Presses full of ancient Ornaments of the Statue; and in the other little Window, which is made in the Wall on the South side, they preserve some earthen Dishes, which serv'd for the use of the Holy Family. There are many of these Vessels which have been since cover'd with Plates of Gold; but we could see but one of 'em, which is cover'd underneath with Silver. They would make us believe, that this Porringer, which might have been discover'd by the bottom, is made of strange Earth, but it is Potter's-Ware, the Enamel of which is not so carefully par'd off, but that it appears still in some parts. Over against our Lady, at the end which looks Westward, is the Window at which they say the Angel entred. This Window seemed to me about three foot in heighth, and a little less in breadth.

[Page 236]They could not tell me what was be­come of the old Roof, nor the little Bell, which hath been observed in the ancient Pictures which represent this House: For the present Arch is of a later Fabrick. As for Bells they have some, and their proper use should be to appease Storms immediate­ly with their sound; but they never use them for fear of wearing them.

I must not forget two considerable things, which, they say, were transported at the same time with the House: the Altar made by the hands of the Apostles themselves, and the Stone on which St. Peter celebrated his first Mass. This is covered with Silver, and hath place among the Relicks, under the Altar where they usually officiate. The Pavement is of squares of white and red Marble. This is not the old Floor, for, they say, the Angels left that at Nazareth, with the Foundations of the House. To prove this History of the Translation, they insist on this Argument, that, as they af­firm, it appears, that it really hath no Foundation, but was fixed on the Earth, just as it fell from Heaven.

None are per­mitted to come in with offen­sive Arms, B. Bartoli. It is pemitted to lick the Walls, but they assure you, that terrible things happen'd to those who have been so bold, as to take away the least Particle.You enter this sacred place at three doors, two of which are at the end, which looks to the East, and give passage to cross from North to South: And thro' this door the Pilgrims are let in. The other is also on [Page 237] the South side, but towards the East, and leads to the place called the Sanctuary; that is to say, the space made between the Altar and the end of our Lady's Cham­ber.

I will not undertake to represent to you the Riches which are in this place: For that would be a thing too tedious and diffi­cult. I will only tell you, that it is an a­mazing sight to behold the infinite number of precious Stones, with which the Mantle of the Statue is adorn'd; there is nothing all about but Lamps, Statues, Busts, and other Figures of Gold and Silver: without mentioning the Candlesticks of Silver and Vermillion, which are eight and twenty in number, there are twelve of massie Gold, of seven and thirty pound weight each. The last rich Offering is always left for some time in a place fram'd on purpose, before the Eyes of our Lady: That which at present occupies that honourable place, is an Angel of Gold, holding a Heart bigger than an Egg, all covered over with Dia­monds of great value. The English Jesuite who conducted us, told us, it was a Pre­sent from the Queen of England. This Reverend Father also told us a great piece of News, concerning which, you ought, in my Opinion, to have given us some account. He assured us, that Princess was big with Child, and added, that undoubtedly it was by Miracle; since they had calcula­ted, that the very moment in which the [Page 238] Present entred, was the happy Minute in which she Conceived.

See the Verses which he made upon this Subject, and of which he would needs give me a Copy. He introduces the An­gel speaking to the Lady, and the Lady answering.

(Ang.)
Salve, virgo potens: En supplex Angelus adsum,
Reginae Anglorum munera, vota, fero.
Perpetuos edit gemitus moestissima Princeps,
Sis pia, & afflictae quam getit affer opem
Casta maria petit sobolem; petit Anglia; summi
Pontificis
To wit, in Great-Britain.
titubans Relligió (que) petit.
Inculti miserere uteri: Sitientia tandem
Viscera, foecundo fonte rigare velis.
(Virg.)
Nuncie Caelestis, Reginae vota secundo:
Accipiet socii pignora chara tori.
Immo, Jacobus, dum tales fundo loquelas
Dat, petit amplexus; concipit illa. Vale.
(Ang.)
Sed Natum, O REGINA, marem Regina peroptat,
Nam spem jam Regni
The Prin­cesses of O­range and Denmark.
filia bina foret.
Dona, VIRGO, marem. (Virg.) I am condunt ilia natum.
Fulcrum erit Imperii Relligionis honos.
(Ang.)
Reginam exaudit REGINA MARIA mariam
Alleluja! O foelix, ter, quater, Alleluja!

Never were Verses repeated with a more luscious Tune, or pleasant Air. The Je­suits Companion thought them so well pro­nounc'd, that he humbly begg'd a Repiti­on, [Page 239] though he knew them already by Heart: And this favour was presently granted him. My smiling Countenance seemed also to applaud them, but my si­lence did not please the Reverend Father. He suspected there was something which I dislik'd, and entreated me so earnestly to tell him my Thoughts, that I could not possibly refuse him. At first, I prais'd se­veral Passages of them, as the foecundo fonte, fruitful Spring, which the Angel begg'd, and the Dat, petit amplexus, which appear'd to me very significant. Yes, said he, the manner of expressing the thing, is not less sweet and fine, than emphatical and de­monstrative; for it denotes a mutual fer­vency. I added, that since he permitted me to speak freely, I could not forbear tel­ling him, that the beginning of the seventh Verse offended me as much as that of the twelfth seemed excellent; that the Uterus (Womb) of which he spake, needed no culture, according to all outward Appear­ances; that such an Epithet was injurious to her Royal Spouse; and, in a word, that I could by no means endure the Word In­culti, Untilled, which besides did not well express his thought. At first he would have defended himself, but he submitted at last; and it was concluded, that instead of In­culti miserere uteri, it should henceforth be, O humilem spectes uterum, or something to that purpose. I would have past over the Vale, but he confess'd, of his own accord, that he put it there only to fill a Gap. He [Page 240] admired the Alleluja beyond measure, and imagin'd, he could never have made a more happy conclusion. It is true, said I, Alle­luja is an angelical Word, it is an exclama­tion of Praise and Joy, which comes very seasonably where you have plac'd it: But you must remember, added I, that the three first Syllables of Alleluja are long, whereas you have made it a Dactyle, and this Hebrew Word is written in Greek, [...]: He excused himself for the Ante­penultima, by citingAmen reddi­dit; Alleluïa dixit, which is a Phaeleu­cian Verse. Prudentius, who had made it short, notwithstanding the Greek η, which signified little, the Word being He­brew, and confessed the Penultima was na­turally long. But he concluded, that the beauty of a thought might excuse the neg­lect of such niceties of quantity; and he resolved at any rate to keep his Alleluja. We had already alter'd our Discourse, when the young Brother desired permission to cri­ticise on the Natum of the fifteenth Verse. He said, the Son was not yet born, and therefore ought not be called Natum: And that he could not think it possible, the Name Natus or Filius should be given to an Embryo of half a Minute, or at least to the informed matter of a Foetus. But the Fa­ther-Poet laugh'd at him for this, and told him, that the Word of the most Holy Lady was a sure Word; that Born or to be Born, signified the same thing on this occasion; that it was properly a Question of the Gen­der, and that we may speak of things that will infallibly happen, as of those that are [Page 241] already in Being. The Fryar had yet ano­ther Objection to make against Natum ma­rem, but he only mutter'd a little, saying, there never was Natus foemina, for he was afraid of giving Offence: And thus ended our Conference.

There are a great number of Candle­sticks, with Branches and other Luminaries, all round the House without, that is, round the Walls which enclose it. But one of the greatest Rarities we observ'd, was the Processions of those who surround this House on their Knees, some compass it five times, others seven, and some twelve, according to the Mystery they search for in the number. Represent to your self forty or fifty Persons, Men, Women, and little Children, all creeping on their Knees, as they turn from one side, and a like num­ber meeting them, as they go to the other; every one is furnish'd with Beads, and mum­bles Pater-nosters: in the mean time they all strive to creep next the Wall, both to shor­ten their way, and to be nearest to the Holy Place; which makes them jostle each other, and causes no small confusion. This is never done, but when there is but a little Company there. The great resort of Pil­grims is at Easter, and about the Festival of the Virgin's Nativity, which they solem­nize in the Month of September; at which times they are obliged to take other Mea­sures. I cannot, without reluctancy, men­tion a thing, which may seem incredible, yet is affirmed by them for a certain Truth; [Page 242] which is, That in the Years of the greatest Concourse, they have several times count­ed two hundred thousand Pilgrims and upwards, during these two Feasts.

One can scarcely imagine a pleasanter sight, than the Caravans of He and She Pilgrims, when these Caravans come toge­ther, as bodies of Confraternities: Many Societies of Bologna, for Example, join to­gether to go on Pilgrimage in Company. Each Society have theirSaccola. Frocks of ordi­nary Linen-Cloth, with a Cowl of the same Linen, made like a Strainer for Hip­pocras, which quite covers their Heads, and leaves only three Holes for their Eyes and Mouth. There are Fraternities of all Colours: They forget not their Beads, Girdles, Pilgrims Staves, and the Arms of the Society, which are painted, or em­broidered, before and behind, on the Back and Breast of every Brother. These Pil­grims thus equipped, ride upon Asses, which are reputed to have some smack of Sanctity, by often going on Pilgrimage. They seldom fall; and if they happen to do so, they say 'tis without danger to the Pilgrim. So much for the Men. The Womens Habits are as rich as possibly they can procure: And they fix to the Body of their Gowns, a little Pilgrim's Staff, of the length of a HandSome are of Gold, Silver, Ebony, Ivory, Artificial Flowers, and many are enriched with Pearls, and Precious Stones, &c. A Staff, which gives occasion for many pleasant Thoughts, and serves for Diversion to [Page 243] all the Company on the Way. These So­cieties of Ladies ride in Calashes, surroun­ded with whole Squadrons of Ass-Troopers. Is it not pretty to see these Morrice-Dan­cers thus mounted and dressed, make an hundred Rounds, and Antick Postures, accompanied with foolish Songs to divert the Lady Pilgrims? Let not this Liberty of the Women surprize you. The Pre­tence of Devotion to our most holy Lady, is a Reason sufficient to release them from their usual Prisons: And besides, I doubt not but every one hath a Brother, or some other Spy near her.

I might tell you a great many things of the Church, but I fear you are cloy'd with such Stories: Only you must know, that all that is rich in the House is but of small value, in comparison of what we saw in the Treasury-Chamber. This Chamber is a spacious place: Ten great Presses, with folding-Doors, serve as Wain­scot to the Walls; the vaulted Roof is of a fine sort of Plaister, with gilded Com­partments, adorn'd with fine Pictures. The Silver-work is not thought worthy of ad­mittance into the Presses; it was allowed at the first, but at present it is confu­sedly heaped up in private places, till they have occasion to use it. These Presses are therefore filled only with pure Gold, remarkable Jewels, or Ves­sels and Ornaments more precious than [Page 244] GoldAmong these Jewels, they set the highest esteem on a Pearl wrought after the fa­shion of a Gondola; which they say was natu­rally mark'd with the Fi­gure of our Lady. B. Bartoli.: I will not attempt a Relation of the Particulars, for they exceed Ima­gination it self. To comprehend how these vast Riches were thus accumulated, you need only remember, that all the People, Princes and States, who acknow­ledge the Supremacy of the Pope, have continually for these four hundred Years brought them thither, and vied to out-do each other: You must also consider, that this Treasure is but a small part of the Presents they have received. They have built a Church, and a most magnificent Palace. They have settled Revenues, and purchased Lands beyond all view; and it is not to be doubted but they have Chests full of Money. This is not all; the Boxes furnish them with prodigious Sums, and one of the Secrets they make use of, to stir up the Devotees to fill them, I think very well deserves a Relation. They distribute a Printed Paper, by which they endeavour to perswade the People, that the Holy House hath no more than twenty seven thousand Crowns in Reve­nue;The Crown is worth near Five Shillings Six Pence En­glish Money. and by another Computation which they annex to the former, they show, that they are obliged to disburse thirty eight thousand six hundred and thirty four Crowns, to pay the Officers Salaries, and other Annual Expences. See then above eleven thousand Crowns, which according to this pretended Account, they fall short every Year. This is a ready way to take Opportunity to make pathetick Represen­tations [Page 245] of their Poverty, and to move the Compassion of devout Pilgrims, in favour of our good Lady, who, say they, loves nothing more than the Vertue of Libe­rality.

As we left the Treasury, they carried us to the Arsenal, which is not conside­rable: There they shewed us some Arms taken from the Turks, and relate, that these Barbarians having made a Descent to plunder the Treasury,Mahomet II. and after him Selim his Ne­phew. about fifty Years ago, our Lady struck them all blind just at the very Entrance; at which time they seized on part of their Arms. From the Windows of this Arsenal, you behold the part of the Sea, over which, as they say, the House was brought: They add, that ever since, there is a certain White Way on the Water; and our Jesuit made use of the highest Asseverations, to protest to us, that he had often seen it. Yesterday when we came hither, the Rabble flock­ed about us, and told us, That we must make haste to confess and communi­cate; without which, those who should dare to enter into the Holy House, would be shaken even to the Marrow in their Bones, and be in danger of sudden death. There must be as well Impudence on one side, on such Occasions, as there is a great deal of Prejudice and Stupidity on the other.

After we had seen some Apartments of the Palace, they led us into the Cel­lar, where we found one hundred and [Page 246] forty great Tuns, full of good Wine. From thence we went to the place where the Drugs were kept; where they shew'd us three hundred and forty five Vessels of Earthen-Ware, which they said were painted by Raphael, and are infinitely esteemed. On five of the largest, are St. Paul, and the four Evangelists; and on the others, the History of the Saints, the Metamorphoses of Ovid, and Plays of Children.

Loretto is a very little Place, though it be well fortified, and hath the Title of a City and Bishoprick. There is in the great Place, an admirably Beautiful Foun­tain of Marble, enrich'd with Statues of Brass. There is also one to be seen of Sixtus V. in the same Place: The Inhabi­tants of Loretto erected it for him, in ac­knowledgement of the Privileges they re­ceived from him. The principal Trade of this little City, consists in Medals, Rosa­ries, sanctified Beads, Images, Agnas Dei's, Measures of the Height of our Lady, and such like Wares.

Chaplets of Beads were invented by Urban II.We saw Chaplets whose Beads were like Goose-Eggs; these are for the great Days of Devotion. You must know, moreover, that there is no Person there, who affirms not himself to be descended from the Race of one who saw the ar­rival of the Holy House. All of them have heard their Grandfathers relate, that their Ancestors heard it from their Great-Great-Grandfathers; as those who live now fail [Page 247] not to tell it to their Children, and their Childrens Children. After this Traditi­tion, can you still be incredulous?

I am, SIR, Yours, &c.

LETTER XX.

SIR,

AS we pass'd thro' Recanati, RECANATI. which is a little City on the top of a Hill, three Miles from Loretto, I alighted for a while to see the great Church: I discover­ed nothing there worthy of Observation, but the Tomb of poor Gregory XII. Pope of Rome; who, as you know, was deposed from the Pontificate by the Council of Pi­sa; together with Peter de Luna, who as­sum'd the Name of Benedict XIII. and was Pope of Avignon.

Ten Miles from thence, in a most fruit­ful Country, on the Bank of the Potenza, we past thro' the Ruines of the City for­merly called Helvia Ricina, HELVIA RICINA. where there are yet to be seen great Fragments of an Amphitheatre, which was built of Stone [Page 248] and Brick mingled together, like that of Rimini. On this side the River, we were enclosed among Hills for two Miles, after which we arrived at Macerata, MACERATA where we lay. They told us this City was indiffe­rently large, and very pleasant; but it was late, and besides foul Weather, so that we walked not abroad. Between Macerata and Tolentino, there is a fat, and well cultivated Plain, though the Country be slenderly inhabited: They plant great Reeds, to prop up the Vines,The Buffalo's were brought to Italy, An. 595. Ciacon. and make use of Buf­falo's to draw their Ploughs: These Animals are far stronger than Oxen, and eat much less.

TOLEN­TINO. Tolentino is seated on a Rising Ground; I could not learn there was any thing re­markable there, but some Relicks, which are things that we take little notice of. From thence we came to the Town of Belfort, which I may tell you, by the bye, is the first place built with Stone which we had seen in Italy. A good Mile on this side, we came into the Province of Umbria, where we began to enter into the Confines of the Appennine.

A Gentleman of the Neighbourhood, who was going to Foligno, our way, ac­costed us near to Macerata. I was glad of his Company, hoping to get information of several things relating to the Country; we presently discoursed of our famous La­dy, of whom he related a hundred Sto­ries. The Discourse being turned to Reli­gion, he told me, amongst other things, [Page 249] that there was great rejoycing in Italy, that our King was become a Christian: when I desired him to explain his mean­ing; I found he had so many strange Notions, as I thought it impossible for a­ny Person to conceive. The Extravagan­cies he accused us of, were no less than those which the Pagans laid to the charge of the Primitive Christians. He would sometimes look upon me with some satis­faction, when I said any thing which plea­sed him: but he still suspected that I dis­sembled; and all my Rhetorick could not persuade him we were christned.

You must know that this is the gene­ral Opinion of this Country. They know no more of our Religion than they who live among the Tobinambouz. But those Gentlemen of the Frock, who are best acquainted with News, think it meritori­ous to scandalize us, and render us odi­ous, by the Follies and Impieties they im­pute to us.

Between Tolentino and Foligno, for near forty Miles, we were almost always a­mongst the Rocks, which made the ways often difficult. The principal Villages which we saw in our Passage, are Valcima­ra, Ponte di trava, Mutia, Dignano, Colfiorito, and Casa Nuova. At our leaving the Moun­tains, near to a little Village called Pala, we discovered from a height, the Plain of Foligno, which from thence makes one of the finest Prospects in the World.Hic ver Assi­duum. Virg. This great Bottom is encompassed with rich Hillocks, watered [Page 250] with many Rivers, strewed with many pleasant Houses, and extraordinarily im­proved. We had scarcely escaped from the Snows, the Rocks, and the cold and piercing Winds, but on a sudden we found our selves fanned by the Air of a sweet Climate. The Almond-Trees were alrea­dy blossom'd, which in a moment suc­ceeded to the Frosts of the Mountains: This, added to the Beauty of a fair and calm Day, gave us the delicious Prospect of a fine Summer. We could not give o­ver contemplating this delicate Garden, whose extraordinary Charms deserved the highest Praises.

After we had insensibly jogged on three or four Miles in a continual descent, we came into a streight and level Way, on the side whereof runs a small River ex­ceedingly clear;FOLIGNO. and we arrived at Folig­no, which is but a Mile farther, at the end of this way. Though this City be seated in a Terrestrial Paradise, it has nothing else considerable: Yet they say, that Trade flows thither more abundantly than to most of the other Cities of the Ecclesia­stical State which we have seen. Their Trade consists in Draperies, Gold and Silver Lace, some Silks, and Spicery. The Goths plunder'd it several times; and there are no old Monuments remaining.

A little while after we left Foligno, we saw on the other side of the Plain, upon an Eminence, the Town of Montefalco, where the miraculous S. Clara lies enterred. [Page 251] They show there, as they told us, three Stones about the bigness of small Nuts, which were found in theThey show all the Instruments of the Passion, which are found there with the Stones. Heart of that Saint, and upon which the History of the Passion is engraved. But that which is most admirable, is, that all the three Stones together, weigh no more than one of 'em singly; and consequently one weighs as much as all the three:

Not far from thence is the City of As­sisa, where they keep the Bones of that Saint, who preached to the Swallows, and made himself a Wife and whole Family of Snow; and whose Legend is stored with Fables. You know the Man.They pretend that his Body, and that of St. Dominick, are side by side standing on their Feet. At Porciuncula, five Miles from hence, they boast to have the first of these Saints, (St. Francis); and at the great Convent of Bologna they affirm also they have the Body of St. Dominick. His Relicks are under the great Altar of the Cathedral; but no living Soul is permitted to see them. It is said, that a certain Bi­shop of the Isle of Corsica, who believed himself to have a greater Privilege than o­thers, about sixty Years ago, obstinately resolved to see them, and that by Divine Permission, he was presently struck with sudden Death. It is true, so much inter­cession was made to this Saint, that a lit­tle after the Prelate came to life again.

Near the Village of Pesignano, be­tween Foligno and Spoletto, and at the Foot of the Hill which surrounds the Plain, a plentiful Spring runs out of four Outlets under a Rock, and instantly [Page 252] makes a little Lake. There the four Ri­vulets being united, make from thence a pleasant River, which afterwards forms an infinity of Meanders; which, without doubt, contribute very much to the fruit­fulness as well as Ornament of the Coun­try it waters. About two hundred Paces from this Spring, there is on the Way-side, a very little Temple of Corinthian Or­der. One who seem'd to have some skill in Antiquity, told me at Spoletto, that this little River is the Clitumnus, spoken of by some ancient Authors, and among o­thers, by Virgil in the Second Book of his Georgicks: and the Reasons alledged for this Opinion seem very probable. But that which the vulgar Opinion adds, that the little Temple, consecrated to Clitumnus, was made a Deity, is a Story without any appearance of Truth. For besides that this Temple is built Cross-wise, and Eastward, as the most part of the Christian Churches are; and that there are Crosses carved in divers places of the Pediments, which agrees not with the fashi­ons of Paganism: The three following In­scriptions are engraved on the Frises of the Front, and on both sides. (1) ✚ S C S Deus Profetarum qui fecit Redimptionem. (2) Deus Angelorum qui fecit Resurrectionem. (3) ✚ S C S Deus Aposto * * * *, the rest is broken off. The Characters are not in the least Gothick, nor any other part of the Architecture. Perhaps this Temple was built out of the Ruines of that of Clitum­nus. [Page 253] It is now call'd S. Salvatore; and the Bishop of Spoletto says Mass there once a year.

From Pesignano to Spoletto, SPOLETTO. which is but seven Miles, you coast the plain Country at the foot of the Hills; there are in all these Parts a considerable number of Vil­lages and Houses, scatter'd here and there. Spoletto lies within the Mountain, over the rich Plain which I describ'd before. It is a poor City, thinly peopled, ill built, and in a very uneven Situation. They carried us to the Cathedral, after they had boast­ed much of the height of the Body of the Church; but after all, we found nothing extraordinary in its height. The Pave­ment is made of little Pieces of Marble, inlaid, like the Church of St. Mark at Ve­nice; and all the Pediment of the great Portal, is fine Mosaick, on a Golden Ground. From thence we went to the Castle, which is in the highest place of the City. It is only strong by its Situa­tion; but we found nothing in it to re­compense the trouble we had in going up to it. They shewed us from this height, about five hundred Paces from the City, a Church which had been consecra­ted to Concord, and is now call'd The Chapel of the Crucifix. There are at Spoletto some other old Fragments, a Triumphal-Arch half ruined, some Remainders of an Am­phitheatre, and divers loose Marble Stones, but without any Inscriptions, except the Arch, on which we may yet distinguish some Characters. The Aqueduct which [Page 254] joyns the Mountain of St. Francis to that of Spoletto, is the more considerable, in that it is entire, and hath always been in use since it was first made: But this is a Gothick Work; it is three hundred and fifty Paces in length, and two hun­dred and thirty Foot high, measuring from the top of it to the bottom of the Valley.

Three Miles on this side Spoletto, we passed the Somma, which is the highest Mountain on this Road. And after we had been for five or six Miles amongst the dry and desart Rocks; those Rocks were on a sudden changed into Embel­lishments. During the space of four Miles, we found Nature had employed all its endeavours to cover these Mountains en­tirely with Laurels, wild Olive-Trees, Ta­marinds, Junipers, Ever-green Oaks, and a wonderful variety of other Trees or Shrubs, which preserve their Verdure all the Winter. If you pass that way in Ja­nuary, or July, you find it still almost the same. 'Tis true, that as the Plain of Fo­ligno looks chearful and pleasant, this seems to have a sad and melancholy Beauty. At our approach to Terni, those Mountains which had always confined us in a streight Passage, on the Brink of the Torrent, which runs at the bottom of the Valley, left us by degrees, and we found our selves in a great Forest of Olive-Trees. These Trees were loaden with Fruits, it being the Custom to let them ripen till [Page 255] they fall off themselves, or with the least shaking. The green Olives which they preserve in Pickle, are gathered before they are ripe, and they take away their bitterness by Art. Those which are ripe have no less bitterness than the green ones. And it is very strange that the bitterest of Fruits should produce the sweetest Li­quor. As we left this Wood of Olives, we travelled about a Mile in a Plain, whose agreeable Air, and Fruitfulness, was little inferiour to that of Foligno; and then came to Terni, which is on the River Nera, in the midst of this excellent Coun­try.

Terni is less than Spoletto, TERNI. but appeared to us somewhat better peopled. Its whole Trade consists in Oil. They told us, that during six Months of the Year,Pliny praises the Cabbages and Turneps of Interamnia. (It has been called Inter­amnia, Inter­amnia, and Interamni­um.) they make there an hundred Charges of Oil every Day. The Charge weighs six hun­dred Pounds, and is worth near twelve English Crowns. This City is veryInteramnia anno ante Christum 671 condita, vi­vente Numâ Pompilio. an­cient. It appears by an Inscription which we observed in the Porch of the Semina­ry, near the Cathedral, that its Foundati­on is not of much later date than that of Rome. This Inscription was made for Ti­berius, and the date is, Post Interramnam con­ditam DC C IIII. Terni was called Interam­na, or Interamnium, by reason of its situati­on inter amnes, between the two Arms of the River which Waters it. There is al­so another Inscription which was put on the Bridge in the time of Urban VIII. in [Page 256] which, it is said, that this Bridge was built by Pompey the Great.

We went- to see the famous Water-fall of Mount del Marmore, which is three Miles from Terni. The Way is rough and pleasant both together. You must ascend very difficult Rocks, and sometimes light from your Horse for fear of Precipices: But, in recompence, we had the pleasure in these Mountains to meet with some Nooks to the Southward, which never felt the Winter. We found amongst the Bushes, Jasmins, Laurels, Myrtles, Rosemary, and Nature smiling in February, (though it had been a very hard Winter) as much as you find it in April in your Island. At the third part of the Way, ascending the Hill Papinio, I observ'd below on the River side, a great space of Ground, planted with O­range-Trees. I counted at least seven hun­dred; and this was the first time we saw them in them in the plain Field without a­ny Shelter. But let us proceed to the Wa­ter-fall.

The River called Velerio, hath its source in the Mountains, twelve or thirteen Miles from the place where it falls down. It pas­ses into the Lake ofOr Piede Lu­co. The Trouts of this Lake have no Back-Bones. Du Val. Peter Tolen­tin a Sieneze, having rid into the River on Horse-back above the Fall, was hurried away by the Current, and took leap with his Horse; but ha­ving time to call on our Lady of Loretto, he escaped, being only soundly we [...]. Balt. Bartoli descript. of Loretto. Luco, at the distance of nine Miles from its Head, and goes out bigger by half than it entred into it. When it comes to the place of its Fall, the Val­ly which it quits, proves to be on a high [Page 257] Mountain, considering the depth which attends it; there then this River which al­ready marched with a swift Current, all in an instant throws it self down from a craggy Rock, three hundred Paces high, and falls into the hollow of another Rock, against which its Waters break themselves with such Violence, that it rises like a Cloud of Dust, double the height of the Fall, which makes a perpetual Rain in all the adjacent parts. This pulverized Wa­ter forms in the Sun an infinite number of Rain-bows, which are always diminishing and encreasing; which cross themselves, and flutter about, according to the various rebounding and spurting up of the Surges, and as this Watry Smoke is thicker or thinner. I can assure you, the sight of this Object fills the Spectator with an A­stonishment that I cannot express. The River seems to hasten its Course, before its Precipitation, because of the sloping of its Chanel: These Surges press on as if they strove for precedency.Du Val hath written, that there is a cer­tain Land near the Nera, which in dry Weather turns to Dirt; and when it Rains, moulders into Dust. Whilst they are still in the Air, they foam, dash against, encounter and shock each other, and seem to be entangled together: At last they fall into an Abyss, which they themselves have made; from which they break forth im­petuously, some through the Crevices of one Rock, others through the Jaws of ano­ther; after which they run on, grumbling and murmuring, a little farther; and at last mingle themselves with the Waters of the little River Nera, which they en­large [Page 258] by at least three quarters. And so ends the poor Velino.

NARNI.From Terni to Narni, is a plain Way, and a good Country; it is but seven Miles. This last City promises something at a di­stance, because of the pleasant little Hills which we see about it, when we come from the side of Terni: But when we en­tred it, we were surprised to find it in a manner desolate: Its Streets are dirty and narrow, and the situation so rough and uneven, that one cannot go scarce three Steps without mounting or descending. According to the sordid custom of the Coun­try, you can see nothing in the Windows but torn pieces of Paper, which is a sign of beggary, and makes the Houses appear as if they were uninhabited. I observed, as we passed, two pretty handsome Foun­tains of Brass. The Emperour Nerva was a Native of Narni.

We turned aside, a little before we went into the City, to see the Ruines of a Bridge, which, as they say, was built un­der the Empire of Augustus, and which they look upon as a thing worthy of Ad­miration. The great pieces of Marble with which it is built, are joined dry with­out any Cement, and without Hold-fasts of Iron. Its height is extraordinary; it joyns the Mountain of Spoletto to a neigh­bouring Mountain, and ends in the Way that leads to Perusa. Of four or five Arches, there remains but one entire; the top of the Mold of the greatest is broken. Many [Page 259] Persons, who I believe are well informed, have told me, that this Arch is one hundred and seventy foot in breadth; and one may by the Eye guess it near so much; which far exceeds the famous Bridge of the Ri­alto.

Departing from Narni, we found our selves again between the Mountains, which continue for eight Miles, to the Town of Otricoli: Near that on a Plain,OTRICOLI. are the Ru­ines of the ancient Ocriculum. We went a little aside to take a nearer view of these dismal Remains, but we could find nothing which might afford us any Instruction. A while after we passed the Tyber, over a fair Stone Bridge, which was begun under Sixtus V. and finished under Urban VIII. as appears by an Inscription engraven on it.

It was late before we arrived at Citta-Ca­stellana; CITTA-CAS­TELLANA. and our intention being to part thence early the next Morning, we willing­ly gave credit to the Report of those, who told us we should find nothing remarkable in it.

Near to Regnano, we found the old Via Flaminia, with its Pavement of nine hun­dred Years continuance, which remains entire in this place to Admiration; we not having perceived any Footsteps of it since we left Rimini, to which this Way extended it self. I shall give you a more particular Account of it on some other Oc­casion.

[Page 260]We dined at Castel Nuovo, which is but a Paltry Town, as well as Regnano. Al­most all the rest of the Country hitherto, is untill'd, and without Inhabitants: The Soil is bad and the Land generally flat, but uneven. We saw every where an infinite Number of ancient Ruines. After we had repassed the Tyber upon the Bridge, which by Tacitus, and other ancient Authors, is call'd Pons Milvius, and at pre­sent by corruption, Ponte-Molle; we met with a paved Way for two Miles, which lead us between Gardens and Houses of Pleasure, to the famous City of Rome.

I am, SIR, Yours, &c.

LETTER XXI.

SIR,

IT is so pleasant to travel in good Com­pany, that for this reason we readily engaged in a Journey to Naples, some­what sooner than we had design'd. There are many surprizing Rarities in this excellent Country, which may be observ'd by those who have the Patience to wait till the Spring is a little advanc'd. Besides, [Page 261] in this Season the Fields begin to put on a more smiling Countenance; and all the Journey is extreamly pleasant. 'Tis true, it hath been so hard a Winter, that we could not expect a forward Spring; and we now find, that tho' we had taken their Counsel, who advised us to put off our Journey till April, we could not have ex­pected any considerable Advantage by so long a delay, by reason of the continu­ance of the Cold. And besides, this would have spoiled all our Measures at Rome, where we intend to remain without in­terruption, since we design not to make a­ny long stay there.

They commonly account it five Days Journey from Rome to Naples: The Road is bad, and we met with but few things worthy of Observation in it: But we find what may make us amends at Naples, at the Mountain of Vesuvius, and amongst the Rareties of Bayae, Puzzolo, and other neighbouring places.

Wherefore after we had rambled about Rome for two or three Days, and run o­ver the principal things which our Curio­sity thirsted after, we left it in order to our Journey for Naples. Twelve Miles from Rome, we came to Marino, a great Town belonging to the Prince Colonna, former­ly known by the Name of the Villa Maria­na. Here we left the level Country,Marino, or Villa Marii. and de­parting from Marino, ascended a stony Moun­tain, where are nothing to be found but Wood and Buffalo's. I shall say nothing [Page 262] at present of the Lake of Castle-Gandolfo, which we coasted for near an Hour, it being our intention to visit it at our re­turn, when we shall have more leisure for Observation.

As we descended the Mountain four or five Miles on this side the Lake, we discovered the Sea, and saw on a little Hillock on the Right-hand, the City cal­led Citta de la Vigna, which is the ancient Lanuvium; a Municipal City, and the place where Antoninus Pius was born; and not the Lavinium of Aeneas, as the vulgar Opinion is. Lavina Litora are ten or twelve Miles from thence, towards that part where Prattica is now seated.

VELITRI.In the Evening we reached Velitri, a lit­tle City enclos'd with a Wall, and seated on a little well-cultivated Hill. It was formerly an important place, and trouble­some to the Romans, but at present it is inconsiderable.

'Tis the general Opinion here, and even the Servants at the Inn inform'd us at our Arrival, that the City of Velitri was honoured with the birth of Augustus. Some one of our Company asked who that Augustus was, and were answer'd, that he was the first Christian Emperour. I expected to have heard him call him St. Augustus; for I observe here, that the People easily ca­nonize all the Illustrious Men of old, Pa­gans as well as others. Finally, Augustus was born atNarus est Augustus M. Tullio Cicerone & Antonio Coss. regione Palatii ad capita bubula. Rome, as Suetonius positively [Page 263] affirms. It is true that hisGentem Octaviam Ve­litris praeci­puam olim fuisse multa declarant. Family was originally of Velitri, and that he was put to nurse in the neighbourhood of that Ci­ty. The same Author relates, that in his time, they spake of the Chamber where that Prince was nursed, as they are wont to do at present of the Holy House of Lo­retto: Huc introire nisi necessariò & casté religio est. Temere adeuntibus, metus & horror obji­ciebatur.

In the midst of the great Place of Ve­litri, there is a very fine Statue of Brass of Pope Urban VIII. I observed that the Statues of the Popes always represent them sitting. This is done, without doubt, to de­note the Empire which they have over all o­ther Princes in the World. They carried us to the Marquiss Ginetti's House; the si­tuation of which is very agreeable, and the Apartments adorn'd with a great num­ber of Antiquities.

Coming down the Hill of Velitri, we observed a great number of Caves, and Cellars dug, under the Rocks, to preserve the Wines cool. After which we entred into a Country poorly inhabited, and all open, for about fifteen Miles, unto the very foot of the Mountain, on the top whereof we saw the little City ofBuilt up­on the Ruines of the old; Sora. Sermoneta, quasi Sorella della Citta di Sora, saith Th. Valla. Ser­monetta.

About four Miles on this side, they made us observe, on the Left-hand about [Page 264] fifty Paces from the High-way, some old Ruines, which, as they say, are the Re­mains of the place called by St. Paul, the three Shops, in the twenty eighth Chapter of the Acts. This place is commonly cal­led, the three Taverns; the reason whereof is, without doubt, because the Words [...] in Greek, The Word [...] is a Latin Word adopted by the Greeks. and tabernae in Latin, have more relation to the Word Taberna, than to that of Bottega. It is something after this manner that they derive S. Longinus from [...], and St. Tiphines from [...],

On the Right-hand we saw the Pro­montory, at present calledMons Cir­caeus, anti­quis famosissi­mus, in quo Circes habi­tasse fertur, & herbis effica­cissimis ibi natis homines in bestias commutasse. Ant. Magin. Monte Circello, which by the Report of some Naturalists, was formerly an Island. It was there, say the Poets, that the jealous Circe changed poor Scylla the Mistress of Glaucus into a Sea-Monster, and the Companions of Ulys­ses into Hogs.

Credibile est Circen mutâsse potentibus herbis,
In Monachósque sues, inque sues Monachos.

SETIA.The little City of Setia is on a Moun­tain a little on this side the Three Taverns. It was formerly famous for its Wines. Se­tinum ardebat in auro, saith Juvenal. But at this Day the Mountain is become of a­nother Nature; it produces scarce any thing at all. I observed amongst the Woods with which these Mountains at present are cover'd, many of the Plants called Ficus Indica. Some of them grow up to the height of thirty or forty Foot, [Page 265] with Trunks as thick as a Man. The Laurels and the Myrtles are common in the Hedges; and here we begin to find Orange-Trees frequently in the open Fields. Near to Setia, at the Village Casa-Nuova, is a great Marish, on which you may take Boat, and go streight to Terracina. But we turned to the Left, in­to a Valley which led us to the Moun­tain, and City of Piperno, where we lay.PIPERNO. I observed in our Way, a pretty large Church-yard, all planted with Orange-Trees, which is doubly contrary to the usual Custom. For first, there are no Church-yards in Italy; every Family hath its Cha­pel or Vault in some Church or Convent; and if there be any publick place where they bury those who are very poor, which I have not yet seen; It is only some Corner of Land, in a private place without the Ci­ty. And besides, it is the Custom where there are any Church-yards, to plant Pines, Yew-Trees, or Cypresses; but no Orange-Trees.

Piperno is a new City, built near the old Privernum, the Metropolis of the Vol­sci, and Residence of their King Metabus, Father to the famous Camilla, (Virg. lib. 11.) Some say that Privernum was called Piper­no, because (when they built it out of the Ruines of the other) they found in the place where Piperno now stands, a Tree which bore Pepper: From whence it comes, say they, that this City hath a Tree in the Scutcheon of their Arms, [Page 266] with the Head of Camilla born by a Lyon. Others are not of this Opinion: They believe that Piperno is so called by cor­ruption for Priverno, or Privernum; and that the Tree now discoursed of, is no Pepper-Tree, but a Laurel: from whence they draw great Consequences of the Bra­very of the old Privernates.

The Bishoprick of Piperno was re-united to that of Terracina (by Honorius III.) be­cause of its Poverty; ob indecentem paupertatem, saith Favonius Leo. The Bishop's Chair is still kept in the Choir of the old Cathedral.

They have in the Church of St. Bene­dict, a famous Image of our Lady by St. Luke, which would not be burned at the Saccage of Privernum, and which is the grand Object of the Devotion of Pi­perno; together with St. Sebastian, St. Tho­mas Aquinas, and the Illustrious Camilla.

Lillies and Daffodils grow naturally, as they say, on the Hillock of Piperno, cal­led Colle Rosso. There is a certain fine Earth found there, named Buccaro, excellent for making Potter's Ware. From the top of this Hill, you discover the little City of Mayença; near which is a Lake, the Wa­ters of which, by the Report of P. Paolo Benvenuti, rise considerably on a sudden two Days before Rain.

Leaving Piperno, we passed over some sandy Hillocks, full of those various sorts of Shrubs which are Green in all Sea­sons. In the Wood which we go into af­terwards, are a great Number of Cork-Trees. [Page 267] This Tree extreamly resembles an Ever-green Oak; and I believe we may very well call it a kind of Oak, since it bears Acorns. When you strip other Trees of their Bark, you at the same time take away their Sap and Life, whereas far o­therwise, when you take away the Bark from this Tree, it grows stronger, and presently produces a new Coat, as Sheep after shearing bear a new Fleece.

Departing from the Wood of Piperno, we went out of the Way two or three hundred Paces,FOSSA NUOVA. This Abbey is on the Ruines of the Forum Appii, of which Benve­nuti assure us, some Foot-steps remain. to see the Abbey of Fos­sa Nuova. The Monks who led us into the Church, told us, That Thomas Aquinas going from Fondi to the Council of Lyons, and finding himself ill, alighted from his Mule, stuck his Stick in the Ground, and fastened his Mule to it, and afterwards fell asleep in a Corner of the Wood, near the Church. It is said, that the Mule getting loose, run furiously into the Church, those who were there not being able to hinder it: They add, that the Beast was so insolent, as to set his Feet in the Choir; but immediately he sunk into the Pave­ment,Others say, that the Mule wandred some days in the Wood, and that running to the Tomb of his Master, he died there for Grief. and was presently punished with sud­den death. They show the pretended print of his Feet, and have put little Iron Grates over them, to preserve them. More­over, as they searched for the Master of the Mule to punish his negligence in not tying him better, they were surprised to see that it wasVillani, and others, write, that he was poisoned by order of Charles I. King of Naples. St. Thomas, who was ready [Page 268] to expire, for want of his Mule to carry him to seek for Relief. They brought him to the Convent, where he died some Days after, and his Body was laid for some time in this Church; from whence it was af­terwards removed to Fondi, and from Fondi to Tholouse.

About ten Miles on this side Fossa Nuova, we found the old Way called Via Appia, Appius Clau­dius Censor, Aquam Clau­diam induxit. & viam Appi­am stravit. Entrop. Appia Longa­rum teritur Regina via­rum. Statius. which was made by Appius Claudius, when he was Censor. The Alterations which time makes on the Surface of the Earth, is the Cause that the Ways are many times changed also, as 'tis plain from dai­ly Experience; but nothing more evident­ly demonstrates this truth than this part of the Via Appia which we met with. You see it come out of a deep Marish; and at present wholly inaccessible, where­as formerly it was the direct Road from Capua to Rome. You are obliged to make a great turning, when you leave this Way to go into that of Piperno. I observed the same thing between Citta-Castellana and Rome, on occasion of the Via Flaminia, of which we find great pieces preserved on this side Regnano; and in some places, and particularly towards Castel Nuovo, fifteen Miles from Rome, this ancient Pavement may be observed, which sometimes mounts on Ascents now inaccessible, and in other places loses it self in deep Valleys, which cannot be descended into, and afterwards appears again some Miles farther. 'Tis certain, that by Winds, Rains, great Floods, [Page 269] Earthquakes, and other Accidents, Plains are raised up, and Hills fall down; Val­leys are filled up; the Earth gains upon the Sea, and the Sea on the Earth; the Sea makes the Earth Lakes, and the Earth turns the Sea to Islands; Rivers are dried up, and change their Course; Mountains swell, and become level; and the Figure of the Globe is in perpetual variation. I could produce Examples of all this. It is true, these Changes are not universal. The length of the Pavement, for Example, which continues for two Miles or there­abouts, to Terracina, is exactly level with the circumjacent Lands.

Of all the Antique Monuments I have seen hitherto, there is nothing in my mind deserves so much to be admir'd, as these famous Roads. The Buildings which are preserved, have been exposed to few Ac­cidents; and all things being well consi­dered, it is rather matter of Astonishment, that Edifices so exceedingly solid, were so soon ruined, than to see them still remain­ing. But that an innumerable Number of Passengers, Horses, and Chariots, should incessantly tread on a Pavement for so many Ages, and yet so considerable Frag­ments of it should still be found entire, is a thing which seems incredible. TheProcopius saith they were all Square, but he was mista­ken. Stones of this Pavement are of unequal bigness; their Colour Greyish and Red­dish, almost like rusty Iron, extreamly hard, and ten or twelve Inches thick. To speak generally, the greatest, in their [Page 270] largest Dimensions are little more than two Feet, and the least not less than one. Though the shape of these Stones be irre­gular, they are all so exactly join'd, and closely united, that it is impossible to thrust a Sword's Point between them, in those places which have still kept their old si­tuation. I have measured the breadth of these two Ways, Via Appia, and Via Fla­minia, and I found them throughout twen­ty Roman Palms broad, with very little dif­ference; which makes fourteen Foot, less by four Inches, English Measure: This is not too much for the meeting of two Chariots. These Ways which they call Viae Consulares, had on each side Borders of the same Stone with the Pavement; and these Borders stood up two Foot, or there­abouts: I have seen them in some places very well preserved. These were called theCippi. 'Tis true, they were some­time called Marginatio­nes. But Lip­sius pretends that these Marginatio­nes, were Pavements on the sides, which were made bigger than the other. I remarked that in this sence the Cippus and Marginatio are sometimes of the same piece. Margines, or Marginationes Viarum; it is between these Borders the Ways are to be measured at a certainty. The Chari­ot Wheels have in some places made deep Ruts, at the most three or four Inches; and the manner after which the Canal of this Rut is followed from one Pavement to another, is one of the Proofs of its ancient situation. The rest of the Pave­ment is even and whole, without any ap­pearance that the Horse-shooes have worn it in the least. They told me, that there is another very thick Lay of Stone, placed on a Bed of Sand, which serves for [Page 271] the Foundation of this Pavement, and hinders it from sinking. When we ap­proached to Terracina, we saw on both sides, the Ruines of many ancient Monu­ments, which, according to Custom, were erected near these great Roads, both for Ornament, and to give Travellers some Idea of the Roman Magnificence. After all if on the one side these Ways were beautiful and advantageous; on the other so hard and slippery a Pavement, was not with­out its inconveniencies: and we took care to avoid it, at the same time we admired it.

The ancient Anxur, Scopulosi verticis An­xur. Sil. Ital. which was after­wards called Trachina, because it is upon a Rock of difficult access, is at present by corruption called Terracina. It is little,TERRA­CINA. poor, and ill peopled; and all the Coun­try about almost uninhabited. A little on this side Terracina, they were forced to cut the Rocks, to continue the Pavement of Appius, between the Sea and the Moun­tains; this is in many places to be seen within the space of one Mile. The Rock is called Pisca Marina: Terracina was besieged by the Turks. The Inhabi­tants made a Vow to give twenty thou­sand Eels yearly to St. Bennet, if by his intercession they should be freed from this danger. The Turks raised the Siege a few days after. Their Vow was accomplished, and the Eels are carried every Year to the Benedictines. Theod. Valla, and Ostiensis It is near twenty six Foot high; and the ancient Cyphers are marked from ten to ten, in a Capital Roman Character, on the Face of this Rock, which is cut perpendicular; so that the Cypher on the top is CXX. But an [Page 272] Antiquary no less exact than curious and learned, told me at Rome, that [...]he had measured these Distances, and that he found them almost all unequal. Some conjecture, that the principal end of the Undertaker, was to measure his Work, and that he marked the Divisions only slightly, it being no advantage to him. Others believe that every Distance is the Work of ten Days; and that the inequa­lity of the distances was caused by the more or less ease the Workmen found in cutting the Rock. And that which gave occasion for this Thought is, that the di­stances above are greater than those below, the Rock still growing narrower towards the top. But I find one main Objection against this Sentiment; for probably they began to work at the top of the Rock; so that the first Tenth should have been marked above, and the Number CXX. found below; all this seems to me not easie to be understood.

After we had traversed Hills covered with Cork-Trees, having on the Right-hand the Marish and the Sea, and always following the old Pavement, we came in the Evening to Fondi. And an old Wall which is three Miles on this side Terracina, makes the Separation between the Ec­clesiastical State, and the Kingdom of Naples.

FONDI. Fondi is in a flat Country, near a Lake which bears the Name of the City, and which takes great Circuits in a [Page 273] Moorish Bottom, between the Hills and the Sea. They say this Lake produceth Eels of an extraordinary bigness.Others say Chairadin, Caratin, and Cheireddin. Haria­den Barbarossa, King of Algier, and Ad­miral to the Grand Signior, finished the desolation of this poor little City of Fondi, in the Year 1534. They have painted the History of its Destruction, in the Church of the Annonciata. Barbarossa had a particular design onJulia de Gonzaga, Wife to Vespa­sian Colonna. Barbarossa would have made a present of her to the Grand Sig­nior. She was very beau­tiful. He de­stroyed the City out of spight, because he missed his aim. Schrad. a Princess of the House of Gonzaga, who was then at Fondi: But that Princess, being advertised by a Gentleman of the City, of the Design the Pirate intended to execute, got immedi­ately out of her Bed, and saved her-self, naked to her Smock, by that Gentleman's assistance. The History adds, that not enduring to remember without indignati­on, that a Man had seen her in that Po­sture, she caused him to be stabbed some time after.

Fondi is all paved with Stones of the Via Appia, but we do not find that they are joined so well as heretofore. Near the Castle, there is a great Garden, which, according to Tradition, belonged to Cicero. I believe there are no other Proofs of it. The Dominicans have a great veneration for the Chamber of Thomas A­quinas, and for the Auditory where he taught. They also keep with extraordina­ry care, an old Orange-Tree, which, they say, this Doctor planted. He died anno [Page 274] 1273, or according to the old Legend, 1274; by which you may judge of the Age of this Tree. There is a Story of a certain Tree of Cochin-China, which lived two thousand Years; and we have a Re­lation of China, which tells us of a Tree so old and so big, that twenty Men could scarcely embrace it: But Orange-Trees are not of so long continuance. It is an incredible thing, for every body as­sures me here, that never any of these Trees attained to the Age of four hun­dred Years. It was necessary the Domi­nicans should have some miraculous me­morial of the Angelical St. Thomas, as well as of their great Patriarch St. Dominick, of whom they have another Orange-Tree, at St. Sabina, on Mount Aventin: But what may not a Man believe on this Sub­ject, after what Surius relates of the old Olive-Trees of Nazareth, and of the ac­cursed Fig-Tree, which was to be seen within these two and thirty Years? That this Trunk hath lasted so long, after the Curse it received, is a thing not easie to be understood, without taking notice of the nature of the Tree, which allows it not so long a Life.

They would persuade us at Terracina, that we should find the Leaves of the O­range-Tree of St. Thomas, of another shape than those of other Orange-Trees; as they talk of the Almond-Tree of St. Francis, which is yet to be seen on Mount Luco, and of which the Leaves grow, as they [Page 275] say, with Crosses well shaped. But we could not perceive this pretended difference; nor could we find that the Winter had been more favourable to the Oranges of this venerable Tree; for they were all frozen, as well as those of the Garden of Cicero, who, I may tell you by the bye, passes at Fondi for a kind of Saint, as well as Augustus at Velitri: When this Tree shall die, if at least it ever must, they propose to them­selves to make a Shrine of it, to contain some Relicks of the Saint who planted it. This is no ill Thought. It is thus that they keep somewhere in a Village of Ti­rol, one of the biggest Nails of St. Chri­stopher, in a Case which is made of the Palm-Tree which grew from his Pole, after he had planted it in the Earth, when he carried over the Child Je­sus from one side of the River to the o­ther. Leaving Fondi, we were oftentimes forc'd to pursue our Way on the old Pavement, for ten Miles, to Mola. One is almost always amongst the Mountains; and this unevenness of the Soil joined to the hardness and smoothness of the Stones, renders the Way very troublesome. The Horses shiver as they go, as if they were upon Ice; and must be every Foot new shod. At our approach to Itru, which is a little City on a Rock, six Miles from Fondi, I observed in divers places of these Mountains, large Trees, called in this Country Soucellés, which bear Cods of half a Foot long, or thereabouts, and [Page 276] thick as Bean-Cods. These Fruits are dried, and taste of Honey, somewhat like Manna; I learned here that their true name is Carobba.

MOLA.We arrived about ten a Clock in the Morning, at the little City of Mola, on the Sea-shore. There are to be seen store of Marble-Stones, and other Ruines ofHormiae an­tedictum, Plin. Formiae, that famous City which was built in this very place by Antiphinanes, King of the Lestrygons. It was a sad thing, that one of the mostO temperatae dulce Formiae Littus, &c. Martial. delightful places of the World should be inhabited by Man-Eaters. The Air there is extreamly sweet, the Fruits are admirable upon all the sides of the Hills watered by the Gulph, between Cajeta and Mola; there are most excellent Wines;Sugar-Canes are also plant­ed here. Schrad. all things are plentiful, and the Sea very full of Fish. We took a Walk amongst the Ruines of an old Palace, which, they said, belonged to Ci­cero. It was the Sea partly which de­stroyed it. We found on the Shore many little pieces of Mosaick, which sufficiently demonstrate it had been formerly a re­markable House. It goes for truth, that they have taken away some Inscriptions that made it appear to be Cicero's. I could not without Grief remember the sad destiny of that Great Man, who be­ing drawn from this House where he be­lieved he might have been sheltred, du­ring the last fury of Anthony against him, [Page 277] was at lastby the Cen­turion Popilius Lenas, whose Life Cicero had saved by his care and eloquent Orations. Cicero died sixty four Years old. The Murderer, (saith Calvis.) received of Anthony the Summ of 44000 Crowns of Gold, for his Reward. Appian Alexandr. makes the Reward far greater. murdered in his Litter, en­deavouring to find some other Refuge. I'm persuaded that the sight of a Place where a Disaster happen'd, does very much heighten our Sorrow for it.

After we had considered a little whe­ther we should go to Cajeta, which is on the Point of the Promontory, over-against and in sight of Mola, the Sea be­ing a little too brisk for the little Barks which waited for us: We at last concluded on the Passage. But to tell the truth, the Voyage was made with a great deal of dancing, though some of the Company had little mind to the Sport. The Rain that over-took us, and a great deal of bad Weather, obliged us to stay but a little time at Cajeta; besides, we were to travel that Day, and to lodge about fifteen Miles from Mola. The Pas­sage over the Gulph is about four Miles.

Cajeta appeared to us of a reasonable largeness, and very wellTu quoque littoribus nostris, Aeneia nutrix, Aeternam moriens famam Cajeta dedisti. Aeneid. 7. fortified:CAJETA. Its Haven is good, and the Situation of the City on a high Rock, renders the Ap­proach difficult. There is to be seen the [Page 278] Tomb ofHis Epitaph is thus related by Arnold Ferron: Aucto Imperio, superatâ Italiâ, devicto Gallo, pon­tifice obsesso, Româ captâ: Borbonii hoc marmor cineres continet. Another: Francia mi dio la leche, Espanna suerte y ventura, Roma mi dio la muerte, Y Gaeta la sepultura. Charles of Bourbon, Constable of France, who was killed at the sacking of Rome, and the ancient Mausolaeum of Mu­natius Plancus, by whose advice, (as Suetonius reports) Octavius Caesar preferred the Name of Augustus to that of Romulus; which some would have given him, as to the Re­storer of the City of Rome. This Mau­solaeum is commonly called The Tower of Orlando.

Our Guide carried us in the first place, to a cleft Mountain, which hath no o­ther Name than that of La Spaccata. That great Rock is separated both above and below, from the Top, to the Sea. The distance of this Separation is four or five Foot at the Entrance, but enlargeth it self a little towards the Heighth. It is manifest from the meeting of the Con­cavities and Convexities on each side of the Rock, that it was really divided. They say this was one of the Prodigies which happen'd when our Saviour gave up the Ghost. And they show against one side of the opening of the Mountain, the [Page 279] print of a Hand on the Rock which soft­ned under it: They affirm it softned on the Challenge which an Unbeliever made; and they have graved this Distich be­low it:

Improba mens, verum renuit quod fama fatetur
Credere; at hoc digitis saxa liquata probant.

They have made steps to go down into this double Rock,All the Barks, Gallies, and o­ther Vessels, which pass that way, ne­ver fail pay­ing their re­spects to the Holy Mountain. It is a famo us Pilgrimage. and have contrived a small Chapel, which is dedicated to the Trinity. The Curate of the Chapel took the pains to find out a Hammer to break off some pieces of the Rock, to bestow on us as Relicks; but we told him we were already troubled with too much Baggage; and the poor Man was highly offended at our refusal.

Returning from thence, we visited the Cathedral, where they showed us, amongst other things, a pretended Pillar of the Temple of Salomon. There are four of the like at the great Altar of the Cha­pel of St. Mark at Venice. P. Rosetto writes, that this Vessel was found at Mola. It is supported by four Lions, made of the same pieces of Mar­ble. The ancient Vessel of White Marble, which serves for a Font, in the Baptistery of this Church, is a curious Piece of Work, and most en­tirely preserved: It is made in the form of a Bell, and is four Foot high, or thereabouts. The Basso relievo's, with which it is adorned, are admir'd by skill­full Men. The little Bacchus fresh come out of the Thigh of Jupiter, is by Mer­cury put into the Hands of Ino; and all [Page 280] round the Vessel are represented Satyrs and Bacchanals. There is a Faun which plays on two Pipes at once. I have seen a Shepherd of Tirol do the same.They have ob­served the same thing of Herodotus of Megara. The Workman hath put his Name on the Vessel, [...].

Near the Garden of the Franciscans Zoc­colanti, there is a Bush of Thorns, which are most without Pricks, which, they say, hath grown so ever since the Seraphic St. Francis rolled himself there, to extin­guish his Concupiscence. Towards the Place named Della Foglia, they also show us the place whence heUscissero el capo dell' acqua, saith Rosetto, and they heard him. preached to the Fishes.

Going up by the little Door of the Bi­shop's Palace, over-against the Altar of the Holy Sacrament, there is a Marble Sta­tue of an old Man, who sets his Feet on a little Dog; under the Dog is a Death's Head; a Serpent, whose Tail is placed on the Dog, wraps it self about the Legs of the old Man, rests on his Head, and hath an Eagle on his. There are an hundred different Opinions concerning this Piece. That which is most generally received is, That the old Man represents Aesculapius, with his Serpent: That the Dog signifies the Vigilance and Attention required in Physicians; and that the Eagle repre­sents the Empire of GOD over Men, perhaps the God of Physick particularly.: And the Death's Head is an Emblem of [Page 281] Humane Nature, sadly subjected to that Deity. The Sculpture is four Palms in height.

When we landed at Cajeta, the Officers of the Garrison made strict inquisition whether there were any Frenchmen a­mongst us; and after they had assured themselves that we were all English, they told us, that since the quarrel of France with the Pope, they were always appre­hensive of those Men-devouring French. This puts me in mind of what hapned two Years since, at our coming to Mons, another Spanish City. There was a Re­port that an Army of French was coming, under pretence of guarding the Post of Namur, to make an irruption into the King of Spain's Territories: Upon this, the People of Mons opened their Sluces, drowned all the Meadows, and spoiled all the Ways: The French knew nothing of all this; the poor Travellers were the only sufferers: We were fain to undergo a Thousand Fatigues, to get out of their drowned Ways.

Departing from Mola, we coasted the Sea for some Hours, always following the Ap­pian Way, for eight Miles together, to the Ruines of the City of Minturna. MINTURNA. We saw in our Passage the Remains of an Amphithea­tre,Marius pursued by Sylla, hid himself among the Reeds, in the Marish which is between the Sea and Minturna. A Soldier who was sent to kill him, not daring to undertake it, Marius put himself into a Bark, which cast him on A­frick, where he stayed till he was recall'd. and a considerable length of an Aque­duct, [Page 282] which came from the little City of Tajetto, two Miles farther, on the Left-hand. The River which was formerly known by the Name of Liris, and which at present is called Garigliano, washes the Walls of Minturna. We passed this River in a Ferry-Boat, and took a new way over the Meadows, leaving and quitting altogether the old and troublesome Pave­ment, which loseth it-self in those places, which are no more frequented. We came the same Day to the Village of St. Agatha, and there we lay.

CAPUA.From St. Agatha to Capua is sixteen Miles. The Country is level enough, particularly when we come near to Capua, and the Fields are fair and fruitful. Leaving St. Agatha, they showed us some Hills a few Miles to the Left, where grew, as they say, the famous Falernian Wines. The Volturnus, which is the principal River of the Kingdom of Naples, though of but in­different bigness, washes the Ramparts of Capua, on that side we entred into it. This City is small and inconsiderable in all respects. There you may see seve­ral Inscriptions,Ipsa caput urbium, quon­dam inter tres maximas, Romam, Car­thaginemque numerata. L. Florus. Omnium feli­cissima Ci­vitas. Polyb. and many Marble Stones, which were brought thither from the anci­ent Capua, and we turned aside to visit some Ruines of that. It is two Miles from the other near the Mountains to the Eastward. And the Town which is called St. Mary's, is almost wholly built of the deformed Ruines of that delicious and proud City. We saw there many little Temples, an [Page 283] old Castle, the Remains of two Amphi­theatres, one of the Gates of the City, with a great number of broken Pillars, and other Fragments of Architecture.

Urbs Capys hoc campo? ambitiosa hic aemula Romae,
Parvula quam magni corporis ossa jacent!

The Country People brought us many Me­dals, which we took without looking on them, because we were in haste, and they asked but little for them: But we found afterward nothing rare amongst them. They dig them often up here, and in di­vers other places which they shewed us, as well as towards Mola. But being informed of the search that is made for such things, they are not so simple to give all to the first Comer, at the same price; they know the curious Persons of the neighbouring Cities, from whom they re­ceive Rewards, when they bring them Pie­ces, which are not common: So that these Peasants bring nothing to Travel­lers but what is ordinary, or the Refuse of others.

From Capua to Naples is sixteen Miles; and this Campaign, as you know, makes a part of the Provence called Terra di La­voro. It is really an admirable Soil. Di­ves arat Capua — said Virgil. They pre­tend it is the most fruitful Soil in the World; and they also called it Campagna Stellata, to signifie, that it is highly favoured with [Page 284] the benign influences of the Stars, and let you know that the Air which they breath hath a constant sweetness. We pas­sed through the little City of Aversa, AVERSA. which was, as they tell you,Of the Ru­ines of Atella. built by the Normans, when they drove out the Saracens and the Greeks, and seized on the Kingdom of Naples.

NAPLES, called the Gentile.I will not spend much time in giving you the Etymology of Naples. It was destroyed, saith the History, and afterwards re-built by the Cumani, who called it [...], to distinguish it from the Re­mains of the high City; which they na­med, or became so at the same time, [...]; you know both of them for­merly bore the Name of Parthenope, be­cause, some say, that Ulysses and his Com­panions, having escaped the inchanting Songs of the Mermaid Parthenope, that Sea-Nymph in despair, threw her self down headlong,The Council of Lateran, under Innocent III. in the Year 1215, took away the Greek Bishop, who was Col­league to the Latin Bishop. and was enterred at Palaeopolis. Others pretend that one Parthenope, Daugh­ter of Eumelus King of Thessaly, and Grand-daughter of Admetus and Alcesta, brought a Colony thither from her Father's Estates, and gave her own Name of Parthenope to this City, which had then another Appel­lation, now unknown. Let it be as it will, it appears by these Greek Names, that Naples was built by the Grecians. It is very large, and well peopled, but I can­not tell you exactly the Number of its Inhabitants, nor any thing satisfactory of its Circuit, the Figure of it being most [Page 285] irregular. The Curious, who have walk­ed round the Walls, reckon that it is nine Miles in compass, and that it is eighteen if you include its seven Suburbs. Altho' it hath endured terrible Assaults,One of their Poets plea­santly said, That Naples seems to have fallen from Heaven. it is still one of the most noble, and perhaps finest Cities in the World. It is paved through­out with great square Stones, cut to a Pattern. The Streets are strait, and most of them broad. The Houses are high, with flat Roofs, and uniform Building. London, Paris, Rome, Venice, and a great number of other Cities, have, in truth, fine No­blemens Houses; but these Houses are mixed with great a number of ordinary ones, whereas Naples is generally all very fair. The Sea makes a little Bay, which washes it to the South. To the North it hath rich Hills, whereby you rise insensi­bly into Campagna Felice. Eastward is a Plain which leads to Vesuvius; and in the West is the high Town, where are the Chartreux, and the Castle of St. Erasmus. The Prospect which we have of this Ascent is very charming: I will give you an Ac­count of it in the sequel.

Besides, that the Houses of Naples are commonly great, and well built, there is a considerable number which deserve the Name of Palaces. For Example: Those of the Dukes of Matalone, Gravina, Airo­la, and de la Tour; of the Princes of St. A­gatha, Mont-milet, Botera, and Cellamara. The Palace of the Vice-Roy is in a great Place; the Front is regular, and a­dorn'd [Page 286] with three Orders of Architecture. It is near four hundred Feet in length, of English Measure, and is the Work of the famous Montana. The three Ca­stles which defend Naples; the Academy, which they call Studii Nuovi; the Acade­my for riding the Great Horse; the Con­vents; the Hospitals; the Arsenal, and the Magazines for the Gallies, are so ma­ny Edifices of very great Note. There are many Fountains, which contribute as well to the great Conveniency, as Embellish­ment of the City: And three of these Fountains are of an incomparable gran­deur and beauty. But that which seem­ed to us most extraordinary at Naples was the Number and Magnificence of the Churches. It may be justly said, that in this respect it surpasses Imagination. If one would take a view of the fine Pie­ces of Architecture, the Churches must be visited, you must behold the Frontispiece, the Portals, the Chapels, the Altars, and the Tombs. If you would look upon rare Pictures, Sculptures, and the rarety of Vessels of Gold and Silver, you need but go to the Churches; the Arches, the Wainscots, the Walls are all covered with pieces of precious Marble, most artificially laid together, or with Compartiments of Basso Relievo, or of Joyners-work gilded, and enriched with the Works of the most famous Painters. There is nothing to be seen but Jasper, Porphyrie, Mosaick of all fashions, and the Quintescence of Art. [Page 287] I visited five and twenty, or thirty of these stately Edifices, where one still finds him self surprized afresh. If it were possible to unite eight or ten together, and make a regular Composition out of 'em all, I believe it would be the most magnificent Structure in the World.

I dare not venture on an exact Descri­ption of so many Particulars, yet cannot forbear to mention at least some of these Churches, which we found most remark­able, since perhaps it may be of use to you hereafter. The Church of the Jesuits is an admirable Piece: The Dome was paint­ed by the Chevalier Lanfranc; and which way soever you turn in this stately Tem­ple, all parts are enriched with most cost­ly Ornaments, from the Pavement to the Roof. It is the same in St. Mary's of the Annonciata, which we may justly say, is of most splendid beauty.The Religious may purchase from right to left, all the neighbouring Houses, til they come to be bounded by some Street; so that there being no Street without a Con­vent, they may purchase the whole City. G. Burnet. There you may see also that famous Hospital, whose Revenue amounts to above two hundred thousand Ducats of Gold. All is very rich and sur­prizing; St. Philip of Neri, Santa Maria la Nuovo, St. Severin's, St. Paul's, St. Domi­nick's, the Church and Monastery of Mount Olivet; at the Church of the Holy Apostles, St. John Carbonare, the Cathedral, the lit­tle Hospital, and St. Mary's of Health. I omit above three hundred others to a­void a tedious prolixity: Nor will I take notice of their Treasures and Vestries, which are replenished with prodigious Ri­ches. Two of the Theatines having led [Page 288] us into their Church of the Holy Apostles, those good Fathers declared to us by the manner of their Discourse, the poor condition of their Order, who have, say they, more reason than any others to complain: For if the Mendicants, for Exam­ple, have no proper Goods, yet, at least, they have liberty to beg: Whereas, the poor and unhappy Theatines live only on God's Providence, possessing nothing, and not da­ring to ask any thing. Arguing after this manner, after they had made us observe the various Magnificencies of their Church, they brought us into the Vestry; where we found fourteen great Cupboards, with double Doors, all filled with Vessels of Gold and Silver, and other precious Or­naments: A Treasure of poor People, sufficient to satisfie the most inordinate Ambition.

The great Convent of the Chartreux at St. Martin's, is extraordinary full of rare and magnificent things: The Monks who conducted us thither, affirmed to us, that under one Priorate, there were laid out amongst them five hundred thousand Du­cats in Silver Plate, Pictures, and Scul­ptures only. Their Church is none of the greatest; but every part of it deserves Admiration: Nothing can be added either to the value of the Matter, or excellence of the Workmanship; all is compleat, and exquisitely beautiful. The Nativity of Christ, by Guido, is an excellent Piece: The four Pictures of the last Supper, [Page 289] which are to be seen in the same place, were done by Espagnolet, Ann. Carache, Paul Veronese, and Cavalier Massimno. — — has thought fit to represent Jesus Christ standing, giving the Sacrament to his Apostles, and putting the Bread into their Mouths, they being on their Knees. There are a great many other Pieces highly valued, too many to be here re­cited.

The Cloyster is one hundred Paces square: All the Pavement is of Marble, inlaid, representing Boughs, and other Or­naments of the like nature; and the four Galleries are supported by sixty Pillars each, of one entire piece, of fine White Marble of Carrara. The Monks are pleasantly lodged; every one hath his Chamber, his Closet, his Library, and his little Garden. The Prior's Apartment might well befit a Prince: There, amongst other things, you may see the famous Crucifix of Michael Ange­lo, drawn, as is said, from Nature to the Life, by a certain Peasant, whom that Painter crucified for that purpose: This smells like a Fable; but here it goes current for a great Truth. This Picture is of Wood, and is not above half a Foot high. I observed that the Crucifix holds his Head exactly streight, which agrees not very well with the Posture of a Man expiring on a Cross. They have also a Saint Laurence by Titian, and some Designs of Ruben's and Albert Durer, which they prize very highly.

[Page 290]The various Prospects which are disco­vered from this Ascent, strike the Behol­der with Admiration. You behold the Sea, and many Islands, amongst which is that of Capreae, the famous Seraglio of Ty­berius. From thence you may distinctly view the Greatness, and Ground-Plot of Naples, with itsThe Castle of the Egg, the new Castle, and the Castle of St. Elmo. In the Castle of the Egg, there is a Brass Can­non, called the Magdalen, which carries a Ball of six-score Pound weight; and weighs twenty one thousand Pounds. Bulif. Castles, Haven, Mole, and Lanthorn. It is a pleasure to look on the Gardens which surround it, and the Fruitful Hills which ascend to Campania the Happy. If you cast your Eyes on the other side, along the Sea-shore, the small Bays or Inlets which reciprocally mix with the little Capes, washed by that peaceful Sea, and the pretty Villages, with which the Coast is strewed, render a per­fectly agreeable Object. A little farther the Air is thickned by the horrible Smoak of Vesuvius, and you may take a full view of this terrible Mountain.

I shall not spend much time in descri­bing either the Relicks, Statues, or mira­culous Images, as they call 'em: But it is reasonable you should have some Account of 'em, according to my wonted Method, of saying somewhat of every thing. They keep at St. Louis of the Palace, a reasona­ble quantity of the Virgin's Milk, which becomes liquid on all our Lady's Festivals. At St. John Carbonnara, the Blood of St. Ja­nuarius boils up, when any one comes near the Shrine in which his Body is kept; and the Blood of St. John Baptist, which is at St. Maria Donna Romita, doth the same [Page 291] thing whilst they say the Mass for the beheading of that Saint. I will say no­thing of the Pieces of the true Cross, the Nails, the Branches of the Crown of Thorns, the Images of the Virgin, made by St. Luke, nor an infinity of such-like Rarities, whose Number would tire you. At St. Dominick the Greater, you may see the Crucifix, which said one Day to St. Thomas Aquinas, Thou hast written well of me, Thomas; What Reward wilt thou have? To which St. Thomas answered, None but thy self. The Legend adds, That this Holy Man being then in a Rapture, the fervour of his Zeal lifted him three Foot from the Earth, and so sustained him. They say, another Crucifix, which is in the Church of the Benedictines, had twice a long con­versation with his Vicegerent, Pope Pius V. That of St. Mary of the Carmelites, bowed his Head at the sight of a Cannon-Bullet which was shot at him; this was in the Year 1439, when D. Pedro of Arragon, besieged Naples. The Bullet only beat off the Crown of the Crucifix; they shew it every Year on the first Friday in March, and the second Holiday in Christmas. At the Church of St. Agnello, in the Chapel belonging to the Family of the Monaci, another Crucifix which spoke, is to be seen; the Story of which you have in the following Inscription:

Anno Domini, M CCC. in the Reign of King Charles II. this Holy Image of the Cruci­fix, [Page 292] whilst the Comperes wrangled about Money lent, shining with Divine splendor, declared the Truth of the Matter by Speech; which the Per­son guilty, being angry at, denied himself to be the Debtor, and presently struck the Image with a very hard Stone, on the Face, which instant­ly becoming Black and Blue, was a notable Miracle to all; and the Sacrilegious Person after so great a Crime, becoming immoveable, by the Prayers of the Creditor put up to God for him, was brought again to himself, and as long as he lived, did Penance for it.

In the same Church, the Image of St. Mary of Intercession, hath often held long Discourses with the blessed Jane, Mother of St. Agnello, A Crow which [...]uted Tiberi­ [...]s, Drusus, [...] Germani­ [...]us Caesars, was killed by a certain Taylor, and was order­ed to be buried with a solemn funeral [...]o [...]p Plin. 10. c. 44. and with St. Agnello himself. Furthermore, it is not now a-days only, that such things have hapned. Do you not remember you have read, that amongst the Prodigies which appeared at Rome, sometime before the Triumvirate, many Statues of the Gods sweat Blood and Wa­ter, and that there was an Oxe which spoke? without doubt they were not less astonished under the Empire of Caligula, when the Statue of Jupiter, which was at Olympus, burst forth into such loud fits of Laughter, that those who were taking it down to carry it to Rome, fled away affright­ed, and left their Work. You know the Hi­story of the Crow, which prognosticated Misfortune to Domitian, by its [...].

[Page 293]The great Number of Churches which we visited, and the Multitude of Tombs I observed there, gave me opportunity to transcribe many Epitaphs; if you will, to vary our Subject a little, I will commu­nicate to you some part of my Collection: 'Tis true, they are written in a mournful Style, but, in my Opinion, agreeable, be­cause so pathetical.

In the Church of St. John the Evangelist, there are six or seven Epitaphs, made by the famous Poet Johannes Jovianus Pontanus. I fansie you can find nothing more ten­derly, nor more happily expressed: Take Four only:

On the Tomb of his Daughter Lucia.

Liquisti Patrem in tenebris, mea Lucia, postquam
E luce in tenebras, filia rapta mihi es.
Sed neque tu in tenebras rapta es, quin ipsa tenebras
Liquisti, & medio lucida sole micas.
Coelo te natam aspicio, num nata Parentem
Aspicis? an fingit haec sibi vana Pater?
Solamen mortis miserae, te nata Sepulchrum
Hoc tegit, haud Cineri sensus inesse potest.
Si qua tamen de te superat pars, nata, fatere
Felicem, quod te prima juventa rapit.
At nos in tenebris vitam luctuque trahemus,
Hoc pretium Patri, filia, quod genui.

Musae, Filia, luxerunt te in obitu, at la­pide in hoc luget te Pater tuus, quem liquisti in Squallore, cruciatu, gemitu, heu, heu! Filia, quod nec morienti Pater adfui, qui mortis cordo­lium tibi demerem; nec sorores ingemiscenti Col­lachrymarentur [Page 294] misellae; nec Frater singultiens, qui sitienti ministraret aquulam; nec mater ipsa, quae collo implicita, ore animulam accipe­ret, infelicissima; hoc tamen felix quod haud multos post annos revisit, tecumque nunc cubat. Ast ego felicior, qui brevi cum utraque edormi­scam eodem in Conditorio. Vale Filia. Matri frigescenti cineres, interdum caleface, ut post eti­am refocilles meos.

Joannes Jovianus Pontanus L. Martiae, filiae dulciss. P. quae vixit. Ann. XIIII. Mens. VII.D.XII.

Pont. Pater. L. Franc. Fil. infelic.

Lucili, tibi lux nomen dedit, & dedit ipsa
Mater stella tibi, stella (que) lux (que) simul.
Eripuit nox atra, nigrae eripuere tenebrae:
Vixisti vix quot litera prima notat.
Hosne dies? breve tumne tibi lux fulsit, & aurae
Maternum in nimbis sic tenuere jubar?
Infelix fatum, puer heu malè felix, heu! quod
Nec puer es, nec lux, nec nisi inane quid es.
Floreat ad pueri tumulum, ver halet, & urnae
Lucili, & cineri spiret inustus odor.

Dies L. non implesti, Filiole, breve naturae specimen, aeternus parentum moeror, ac deside­rium.

For his Wife.

Illa thori bene fida Comes, custos (que) pudici,
Cuique & acus placuit, cui placuere coli.
Quaeque focum castos (que) Lares servavit, & arae
Et Thura, & lachrymas, & pia serta dedit.
In prolem studiosa parens, & amabilis uni
Quae studuit caro casta placere viro,
[Page 295]Hic posita est Ariadna; rosae, violae (que) nitescant,
Quo posita est syrio, spiret odore locus:
Urna crocum Dominae fundat, distillet amomum,
Ad tumulum, & cineri sparsa cilissa fluat.

Quinquennio postquam uxor abiisti, dedicata prius aedicula monumentum hoc tibi statui, te­cum quotidianus ut loquerer, nec si mihi non re­spondes, nec respondebit desiderium tui, per quod ipsa mecum semper es: aut obmutescit memoria, per quam tecum non loquor. Ave igitur, mea Hadriana, ubi enim ossa mea tuis miscuero, u­terque simul bene valebimus. Vivens tecum vixi. Ann. XXIX.D.XXIX. Victurus post mortuus aeternitatem aeternam. Joannes Jovia­nus Pontanus, Hadrianae Saxonae, Uxori opt. ac benemerentiss. P. quae vixit Ann. XLVI. mens. VI. obiit Kalend. Mart. Ann. M.CCCC.LXXXX.

For Himself.

Vivus domum hanc mihi paravi, in qua quiescerem mortuus. Noli obsecro injuriam mor­tuo facere, vivens quam feceram nemini. Sum etenim Joannes Jovianus Pontanus, quem ama­verunt bonae Musae, suspexerunt viri probi, ho­nestaverunt Reges Domini, scis jam qui sum, aut qui potius fuerim: Ego vero te, hospes, no­scere in tenebris nequeo, sed te ipsum ut noscas Rogo. Vale.

At Sancta Clara, for a Maid who died at the time of her Espousals:

Nata, eheu miserum! misero mihi nata parenti,
Unicus ut fieres, unica nata dolor.
[Page 296]Dum tibi nam (que) virum, taedas, thalamum (que) parabam,
Funera, & inferias, anxius ecce paro.
Debuimus tecum poni materque, paterque,
Ut tribus haec miseris urna parata foret.

In the same Church, for King Robert, who was the Founder, and was Sirnamed the Good, and the Wise: ‘Cernite Robertum regem virtute refertum.’

This Panegyrick is a little brief, for a Prince of such Wisdom and Knowledge, and so great a Captain: But the longest Elogies are not always the best: There are two others of the same Style, at St. Pie­tro d' Ara.

D. O. M. Fabritio Francipano, oui nec vi­venti Romani virtus, nec morienti vera pietas defuit. Haeredd. ex testa. B. M. &c.

At St. Domin. Maj. for a Lord of the House of Caraffa:

Huic
Virtus Gloriam,
Gloria immortalitatem
comparavit
M.CCCC.LXX.

In the same Church, for a Person who is not named: ‘Terra tegit terram.’

[Page 297]In the same Church, for the Cardinal d' Ariano, of the Family of Caraffa:

Vivat adhuc quamvis defunctum ostendat imago,
Discat quis (que) suum vivere post tumulum.

In the Vestry of the same Church, are many Tombs of the Kings and Queens of Naples. They have there represented Death, under whose Effigies these Words are written:

Sceptra ligonibus aequat.
Memoriae Regum Neopolitanorum Arragonensium, &c.

For King Ferdinand II.

Ferrandum mors saeva diu fugis arma gerentem,
Mox, illum positis, impia, falce necas.
Obiit anno Domini 1496.

For Isabel of Arragon, Daughter of Al­phonsus I. and Wife of John Galeas, Duke of Milan;

Hic Isabella jacet, centum sata sanguine Regum,
Quâcum majestas Itala prisca jacet.
Sol qui lustrabat radiis fulgentibus orbem
Occidit, in (que) alio nunc agit orbe diem.
Obiit die 11. Febr. 1524.

In the same place, for the Marquess of Pescara, by Ariosto:

Quis jacet hoc gelido sub marmore? Maximus ille
Piscator, belli gloria, pacis honos.
[Page 298] Numquid & hic pisces coepit? Non. Ergo quid? Urbes,
Magnanimos Reges, oppida, Regna, Duces.
Dic quibus haec coepit Piscator retibus? Alto
Consilio, intrepido corde, alacrique manu.
Qui tantum rapuere ducem? Duo numina, Mars, Mors.
Ut raperent quisnam compulit? Invidia.
At nocuere nihil; vivit nam fama superstes,
Quae martem, & mortem vincit, & invidiam.

For John Alefelt, a Danish Gentleman, who died at Naples, in his Travels: His Sepulchre is at Mount Olivet:

Ut flos mane viret, tepida productus ab aura,
Languescit flaccus vespere, nocte cadit.
Sic nos mortales orimur, morimur (que) miselli,
Certa (que) vivendi, non datur ulla dies.
Praesentis vitae est cursus labyrinthus, in illum,
Ex utero intravi, morte vocante abii.
Erravi hic quantum Deus, & mea fata volebant:
Lustra (que) transmisi quin (que) dies (que) decem.
Nobilibus tribui stadiis haec tempora vitae,
Ut sic nobilior, nobilis ipse forem.
Horum & Liligeri me visere Regna Monarchae,
Fecit, & in Latium bis pius egit amor,
Nunc jaceo, Patriae longè tumulatus ab oris;
Judicis expectans acta suprema Dei.
Cimbrica me genuit Tellus Arctoa, sub Austro,
Parthenope rapuit, Parthenope (que) tenet.
Obiit XVI. Kal. Jul. an. M.D.LXXXI.

[Page 299]In the same Church:

Constantia Davila, & Beatrix Picolominea fi­lia, redditis quae sunt Coeli Coelo, & quae sunt Terrae Terrae, ut semper uno vixere animo, sic u­no condi tumulo voluere. O beatam & mutui amoris constantiam!

I forgot the Epitaph of Joan the First, Queen of Jerusalem, and both the Sicilies. Charles de Duras, whom she had first adopt­ed, and who afterwards rebelled against her, caused her to be strangled in Prison, accusing her that she had strangled Andrew of Hungary, her first Husband; concern­ing which Historians vary. The Intrigues of a Landress and a Cordelier, were the cause of all her Misfortunes. The Tomb of Andrew is in the Cathedral. This is the Epitaph of Queen Joan:

Inclyta Parthenopes jacet hic Regina Joanna
Prima: prius felix, mox miseranda nimis:
Quam Carolo genitam, mulctavit Carolus alter,
Quâ morte illa virum sustulit ante suum.
M.CCC.LXXXII. 22. Maii.

She was the Daughter of Charles of Sicily, Duke of Calabria. I remember I have read somewhere, of a certain Fortune-tel­ler, who looking in her Hand, told her, when she was very young, Maritaberis cum ALIO; and that it was observed afterwards, that the Word ALIO, was composed of the first Letters of her four Husbands [Page 300] Names,Andrew of Hungary; Louis, Prince of Tarentum; James, Prince of Majorca; and Otho of Brunswick. Andrew, Louys, James, and Otho.

At St. Mary of the Concord, for a King of Fez, who embraced the Roman Religion, and died one Hundred Years old.

D. O. M. B. M. V.

Gaspar ex serenissima Benemerina familia, vi­gesimus secundus in Africa Rex, dum contra Ty­rannos à Catholico Rege arma rogat auxiliaria, liber effectus a Tyrannide Machometi, cujus im­piam cum lacte hauserat legem, in Ca­tholicam adscribitur; Numidiam proinde exosus, pro Philippo III. Hispaniarum Monarcha, pro Rodulpho Caesare quibus carus, preclarè in hae­reticos apud Belgas, Pannonosque saevit armatus. Sub Urbano VIII. Eques commendator, Imma­culatae conceptions, Deiparae creatur, & Chri­stianis, Heroicis, Regiis virtutibus ad immor­talitatem anhelans, centenarius hic mortale reliquit, & perpetuum censum cum penso quater in hebdomade, incruentum missae sacrificium ad suam offerendi mentem. Anno Dom. M.DC.XLI.

Pope Innocent IV. died at Naples, in the Year 1254. His Tomb is to be seen at the Cathedral, with two Epitaphs, too long to be here recited: The first is in Leonine Ver­ses, and hath no great Spirit in it: The other is in Prose, and therein it is obser­ved, that this Pope, Purpureo primos pileo [Page 301] Cardinales exornavit; First adorned the Car­dinals with a purple Cap: He thought fit to make them this Compliment, the more to engage their Friendship, during his Broils with Fr. Barbarossa. About fifty Years af­ter, Boniface VIII. bestowed the Purple Robe on them. Paul II. the Red Cap, and some other marks of distinction: And Ur­ban VIII. the quality of honour to be sty­led, Their Eminencies. I observed in the same Church, on the Tombs of many Ca­nons, that they have not had the Titles of Cardinals for above two hundred Years. Raymundus Barrilius, Neapo. Presbyter, Cano­nicus Cardinalis, &c. Do. Petrus Nicolaus de Marchesiis Neap. Sacerdos, almae Ecclesiae Ca­nonicus, Diaconus, Cardinalis, &c. anno 1472. You know that this formerly signified, Presbyter Cardinalis, or Presbyter Principalis. There is some appearance that the Canons of this Church had the privilege to make use of this Term, according to old Cu­stom, for a considerable time after it was altered.

In the Chapel of the Family Alesia, at St. Agnello:

Quae miser imposui lugubria saxa Sepulchro,
Mî pater innumeris accipe pro meritis.
Quod si marmoream licuisset sumere formam
Te natus tegeret non alio lapide.
Incisae (que) notae legerentur; Gratus ALEXIS,
Reddidit ossa Patri, fit (que) Patri Tumulus.

[Page 302]It is so rare a thing for a Bishop to pre­fer his Condition to that of a Cardinal, that I must not forget the following Epi­taph.

Sigismundo Pappacudae Franc. F. Tropejensium Praesuli; viro opt. & Jurisconsulto, qui cum in coetum Cardinalium fuisset à Clemente VII. ad­scitus, maluit in Patriâ Episcopus vivere. Hae­redes pos. Vixit. An. 80. M.VI.D.X. obiit 1536.

Doth not this Man put you in mind of John Angelico de Fiesola, that good Brother Dominican, who was skilful in painting, and chose rather to work in his Cell, than to be promoted to the Arcbishoprick of Florence? The Church which hath the Tomb of Sigis­mond, is called St. John of Pappacodi's, because it was built by one of his Ancestors. They tell us, That that Gentleman, being buri­ed for dead after a Fit of the Apoplexy, one of his Kindred, who was in the Country, hearing of it, came Post immediately, and caused the Tomb to be opened. The Body was found dead; but it appeared that he had shifted his Posture.

At S. Severin of the Benedictus, for J. Bap­tist. Cicaro.

Liquisti Gemitum miserae lachrymas (que) Parenti,
Pro quibus infelix hunc tibi dat tumulum.

For Andrew Banifacia, a young Infant in the same Place. The Verses were made by Sannazarius.

[Page 303]
Nate Patris Matris (que) amor, & suprema voluptas,
En tibi quae nobis te dare sors vetuit.
Busta, eheu! tristes (que) natas damus, invida quando
Mors immaturo funere te rapuit.

Both Tombs are Magnificent. The Cha­pel that belongs to the Family of Sanseveri­no in the same Church, is an exquisitely beau­tiful Structure. There you may see the Tombs of the Three young Lords, Brothers, who were poisoned by their Uncle, and all three died in the same Hour. There is some­thing so exquisitely feeling in this, that I cannot forbear to send you their Epi­taphs, together with that of the Countess their Mother.

1. Hic ossa quiescunt Jacobi Sanseverini, Co­mitis Saponariae, veneno misere ob avaritiam ne­cati, cum duobus miseris Fratribus eodem fato, ea­dem hora commorientibus.

2. Jacet hic Sigismundus Sanseverinus, vene­no impiè absumptus, qui eodem fato, eodem tem­pore, pereuntes Germanos fratres nec alloqui nec cernere potuit.

3. Hic Situs est Ascanius Sanseverinus, cui obeunti eodem veneno, iniquè at (que) impiè, commori­rientes fratres nec alloqui nec videre quidem li­cuit.

4. Hospes, miserrimae miserrimam defleas or­bitatem. En Hippolita Montia, post natas foe­minas infelicissima, quae Ugo Sanseverino conjugi, [Page 304] tres maximae expectationis filios peperi: qui venena­tis poculis (vicit in familia, pro Scelus! pietatem cupiditas, timorem audacia, & rationem amentia) unà in miserorum complexibus parentum, misera­biliter illicò expirarunt. Vir; aegritudine sensim obrepente, paucis post annis in his etiam manibus expiravit. Ego tot superstes funeribus, cujus re­quies in tenebris, solamen in lachrymis, & cura omnis in morte collocatur. Quos vides separatim tumulos ob aeterni doloris argumentum, & in memoriam illorum sempiternam. Anno M.D.XLVII.

Here is an instance of another afflicted Mother in the Chapel of the Family of Cop­pola, in the Church of St. Aug.

O Fata prepostera! ô miserrimam pietatem! Clarix Rynalda Tiberii Coppulae Jures-Consi & ca­merae Regiae Praesidis Uxor amantissima, sepultis turbato Ordine VII. dulcissimis infantibus filiis, post habito paterno tumulo, simul cum iis sepeliri voluit. Et materni Amoris officium, quod vi­ventibus maluisset, saltem in communi sede cineri­bus paranda, exiguum doloris ingentis solatium prae­staret, M.D.LXXXXI.

Over-against the great Church of the Carmelites, in a place of the People, there is a kind of Chapel, which was built by or­der of Charles I. King of Naples, in the same place where that Prince caused the Head of the unfortunateHe was not sent to the Holy Land, because he was excom­municated. Conradin to be cut off,And five or six Lords more. and at the same time his Cousin Frederick's, Marquiss of Baden, and Duke of Austria. This Tragedy is painted in Fresco, on the Walls within the Chapel, They [Page 305] have there also the Pillar of Porphyrie, which was erected in the middle; and round about this Distich is written;

Asturis ungue Leo, pullum rapiens Aquilinum
Hic deplumavit, acephalum (que) dedit.

The Body was presently put into the lit­tle Chapel, and afterwards removed into the Church of the Carmelites.

They shew'd us in the Convent of the Car­melites, the place where the famous Rebel Thomas Aniello was killed,Vulgarly called Massaniello. eighteen Days af­ter the Establishment of his Common­wealth. I have a piece of the Money that was coined at Naples in the time of those Disorders, with this Inscription, S. P. Q. N. Senatus Pop. Que Neap. A just Comparison might be made between Massaniello and Cromwell: there is only this difference, that Cromwell was a Gentleman, and Massaniello but a Fisherman.

Our Guide told us, as we passed before the Church of St. Mary Major, That the Devil appeared formerly in the shape of a Hog, in the place where that Church was since built; whicy so affrighted, and drove away the Inhabitants of Naples, that the Ci­ty almost became desolate: But that the Vir­gin answering the Vows of Pomponius, then Bishop of Naples, ordered him to build a Church for her, in the place where they most frequently saw the infernal Hog; which being done, it never appeared after­wards. They add, That in memorial of [Page 306] this Event, the Bishop caused a Hog of Brass to be made which is now kept in a part of the said Church.

You have not here all I intend to tell you concerning Naples. But because we now write to London, I thought fit to join this Letter to the Pacquet. Do me the Honour to love me still, and believe that I am,

SIR,
Yours, &c.

LETTER XXII.

SIR,

THE City of Naples hath been so ma­ny times ransacked, and hath gone through the Hands of so many Masters, that the greatest part of its Antiquities have been buried in their own Ruins. The Front of St. Paul Major is the Frontispiece of the old Temple of Apollo, was afterwards dedicated to Castor and Pollux, by one Tiberius Julius Tarsus, a Freed-Man of Augustus: His Name is distinctly to be read on one of the Frieses of this Frontispiece, [...]. The Portico is supported by eight channelled Pillars, of the Corinthian Order; and on the Pediment are some Basso Relie­vo's, which represent the Deities.

[Page 307]They say that the Columns of St. Restituta were taken from a Temple of Neptune. There also remain some Ruins of an Amphitheatre. We often took notice, as we passed, of an ancient Statue of the Nile, supported by a Crocodile. The House of D. Diomodes Ca­raffa is exceedingly full of Sculptures and an­cient Inscriptions. You may see in the Court, the Head, and all the Crest of a Horse of Brass, which had no Bridle, and which was sometimes in one of the Places of Naples, as an Emblem of the Liberty of that City, when it was governed as a Com­monwealth. But King Conrad caused a Bit to be put on this Horse, as now appears, and wrote, as they say, these two Verses, on the Pedestal which supported it.

Hactenus effraenis, Domini nunc paret habenis;
Rex Domat hunc aequus Parthenopensis equum.

There are also a great many old Ruins found on the Hill; where, as the Antiquaries say, was [...], towards St. Cosmus and St. Damian. And besides that, several curious Persons, as amongst others, M. Richetti hath pick'd up divers Antiquities, and particular­ly made Collections of Medals; from some whereof, great Light hath been drawn for the History of Naples. I refer the speaking of the Catacombs to another time.

You know with what exactness and suc­cess Pope Sixtus V. extirpated the Banditti out of Rome, and all the Ecclesiastical State. But you also know that the other Princes of I­taly [Page 308] had not the same good Fortune, though all with common consent undertook the Work. These Bands of Thieves were more numerous than ever in the Kingdom of Na­ples; and some Years ago, to travel securely, they were forced to go in Caravans. At pre­sent there is nothing to be fear'd, the Mar­quiss del Carpio, last Vice-Roy of Naples, hath at last freed that Country from the Robberies and Murders of that wicked Gang: Many of them have been put to the Sword, and others executed. There is a great number of them yet in Prison; we saw five hundred of them in the Arsenal, who sur­rendred themselves some Months since, on condition their Lives should be saved, and they not sent to the Galleys.

Futhermore, if they have exterminated all the Banditti by Profession, there are still remaining a great number of others who are little better. To speak in general, the Peo­ple of Naples are a very wicked People; the Prisons swarm with Malefactors; and they affirmed to us, that there are at present, in two Prisons only, about four thousand who de­serve death. They did not hit amiss, who said, That Naples is a Paradise inhabited with Devils.

The City is extreamly fine, as I have al­ready told you; but there are many things which are not suitable to its Beauty, and which cloud the pleasant Countenance it would otherwise have. First, you can see no Women in it; it hath this fault in com­mon, with all the other Cities of Italy. [Page 309] You must not think I am become too much a Gallant, when I say, this is to hide ri­diculously the fairest half of the World. Secondly, the Habits and Equipages of Na­ples are of black and dark Colours, which are apt to inspire Melancholy. You are forbidden to wear Gold or Silver, or Silk upon Silk. The greatest Lord can have but twoStaffieri. Footmen: And the greatest part of the Coaches being drawn slowly by Mules, are both uneasie and unpleasant. The Spa­nish Dress is generally used. The Vice-Roy is seldom seen; and his Court looks dull and melancholy like the rest. The Trade of Naples is much decayed: They make there a great deal of Soap, Snuff of Tabacco, Stockings, Wastcoats, and other worsted Commodities.

We yesterday made a Voyage to Vesuvius; Mount Vesuvi­us. See Letter XXXIII. the Journey was somewhat troublesome, and the sight of it dreadful. I will endeavour to give a more distinct account of it than you can receive from the Descriptions al­ready made.

They reckon it eight Miles from Naples to the top of Vesuvius. During the first four Miles, we past through many good Villages, following the Sea-Coast: These places are well till'd, and seem to have re­ceived no damages from the Eruptions of the Mountain, notwithstanding they have happen'd so frequently. There are only from place to place great Stones, which have been rolled thither.

[Page 310]Going out of this last Village, called Re­sina, we turn'd to the Left, and began to ascend; and you may still travel on Horse-back two large Miles, or two Miles and an half further, amongst loose Stones, and heaps of baked Earth, which the Vomitings of the Mountain have spread all about. The more you advance, the more you find the Soil cracked, dry, burned, and covered with several sorts of calcined Stones, which are so many Monuments of those furious Eruptions. You may also observe in seve­ral places, the Chanels of the Torrents of Sulphur and Bitumen, which have run down from the Mountain. In fine, the Ascent be­comes so rough and difficult, that you must be forced to go on Foot; you may believe there are neither Taverns, nor other Houses, nor Boys to hold the Horses.

I assure you there is a great deal of Pains and Trouble, which must be endured be­fore you can mount to this prodigious Fur­nace. You are for the most part plunged amongst the Ashes, if one may properly give that the name of Ashes, which rather resembles Brick-dust. Sometimes you fall back instead of advancing, because the Ashes give way under your Feet; and at last, after divers little restings, you come to the brim of the ancient Gulf; I say the ancient Gulf, because you will per­ceive by and by that things have some time since suffered great Alterations.

This first height on which we now are, makes a Circle round the Gulf: The top [Page 311] of the Mountain having been worn, you may easily conceive what kind of Horns and rugged Elevations have been made in the circuit of its height. As near as we could guess, this vast melting Pot hath near a Mile Diameter; you may go down into it several ways, about an hundred Paces be­low the steep Circle of the brim of the Mountain, which is all the depth of this old Mouth.

By an extraordinary Eruption, this vast Abyss was almost quite fill'd, in one of its last breakings out, with a mixture of Sulphur, of Bitumen, of Minerals, of Al­lom, of Nitre, of Salt-petre, and of Earth melted, or vitrified; all these matters gi­ving over boiling, have form'd a kind of thick Crust, or harden'd Scum, which made a level in the Gulf, an Hundred Paces be­low its Brims. A furious shaking of the Mountain did afterward break this Crust, or thickness of harden'd Matter, and tum­bled the pieces one upon another, as when after you have broken the Ice of a Pond, a sudden Frost presently cements all the pieces together. This rugged Superficies is every where equally uneven; and there are here and there burning Funnels; from whence the Fumes continually exhale: In some places you feel the Heat through your Shooes, only walking over it.

This is not all: Just in the middle of this Extent of the Mountain, which, you must know, is almost round; a furious E­ruption hath forced its Passage, and form'd [Page 112] a new Mountain. This Mountain is also round, and is about a quarter of a Mile in height. I could not count the Paces, be­cause it was impossible to make them e­qual, by reason the Ashes hinder it; which, as I have already told you, make one sometimes slide back.

After we had traversed that rough space, which is like a low Trench, about Three hundred Paces broad between the Bounds of the greater and lesser Mountains, as I have already described them. You mount the last with as much pains as you did the first. It is all full of smoaking Chinks. In many places you see Sulphur almost pure, with a kind of Sal Armoniack, which is almost of a Citron Colour. In others, there is a reddish and porous Matter, like the Scum of Iron, which comes from Smiths Forges: There are pieces of all Colours, Fashions, and Weights: All this having been baked and re-baked by so vehement a Fire, and this Composition of so many different Matters, having been melted and incorporated together, you may easily i­magine what it is.

The top of the little Mountain hath its opening as well as the great one, which at present is the Throat of this vast Abyss; we guessed it to be about an hundred Pa­ces in breadth. There issues out a flood of Smoak, which almost fills its Capacity; but there come sometimes Gusts of Wind from above, which drive away this Smoak, sometimes one way, and sometimes another, [Page 313] which permitted us to view clearly the height of the Mouth, though at several times.

The Brink is perpendicular within, ex­cept in one place, where it is sloping enough to descend into it. Our Guide going first down, three or fourscore Paces before, we follow'd him; which (I must tell you by the bye) was unnecessarily done, and which I would not advise any body to do. We were then on the Brink of this dreadful Precipice, and we rolled down many Stones, or hard Masses, which we loosened about us: Sometimes they stopped at the first or second falling; at other times they made a long continuation of boundings with a great noise. It had been to no purpose to have computed the time these Stones took up in their leaps or descents, because there is no bottom can be guessed at where they must stop at last; the noise ceasing some­times, only in respect of those who heard it, the distance alone rendring it insensible.

We could not perceive that what we tumbled into this Gulf did any way en­crease its Smoak. It is true, greater Mas­ses were necessary for such an Experiment; and yet it would have been very uncertain whether they would have produc'd any ef­fect; there being nothing to oblige us to be­lieve that there is a Lake of of boiling mat­ters, which perpendicularly answers to the Mouth of the Mountain.

Some bring with them Gunpowder, and make Mines, to have the pleasure to blow [Page 314] up great Rocks: But to speak freely, I think it a great folly to carry their Curiosity so far, in so dangerous a place; and I think it wisely done not to stay there too long. The sudden disgorging of the Flames, is not what is to be most feared: But the quaking of the Mountain always pre­cedes the great Claps, and always comes very suddenly. Many have been surpri­zed there; and you know how poor Pli­ny was surprized by it, though he was at a considerable distance.

The following Inscription is to be seen about three Miles from Naples, in a Vil­lage on the Way to the Mountain.

Posteri, posteri, vestra res agitur. Dies fa­cem praefert Diei; nudius perendino. Advor­tite vicies ab satu solis, ni fabulatur historia, arsit Vesuvius immani semper clade haesitanti­um: Ne posthac incertos occupet, moneo. Ute­rum gerit mons hic bitumine, alumine, ferro, auro, argento, nitro, aquarum fontibus gravem. Serius ocius ignescet, pelago (que) influente pariet; sed ante parturit, concutitur, concutit (que) solum: fumigat, coruscat, flammigerat, quatit aerem, horrendum immugit, boat, tonat, arcet finibus accolas. Emigra dum licet. Jamjam eniti­tur, crumpit, mixtum igne lacum evomit, prae­cipiti ruit ille lapsu, seram (que) fugam praevertit. Si corripit, actum est, periisti. Anno salutis 1631, &c. — Tu si sapis, audi clamantem lapidem, sperne larem, sperne sarcinulas; mo­ra nulla, fuge.

Every body knows what Baronius, and many other Authors have reported, of [Page 315] the burnings of this Mountain, whose Roarings have been heard to Rome, and and its Lightnings even to Egypt; the thickness of whose Smoak hath, as it were, ecclipsed the Sun, and made dark Nights at Noon-Day; whose Streams of Brimstone have run into the Sea, so that the very Sea hath swelled and boiled with heat. But without having recourse to old Stories, we need but ask the present In­habitants of Naples, in the Year 1682, from the fifteenth of August, to the twen­ty seventh of the same Month, in the Year 1685, at the end of Semptember, and the last Year in the Month of April: They have been Witnesses of the same Tragedies.

Though I might mix my small Philosophy with that of the learned, who have writ­ten on this Subject, yet would I not un­dertake it for the present: My Design is only to represent the Matter of Fact to you as it is.

I find my self in a manner overladen with the number of Curiosities which we saw about Puzzoli; the little time we had to view them axactly would not suffer me to take particular Notice of them all. I know these things have been many times described; but I am well as­sured that you never read in any Rela­tion, such a Description of Vesuvius, as that which I have now made you. I am also persuaded that you will find some­thing new, in what I have to say of [Page 316] the Journey we lately made. Going out of the Suburbs of Naples, in the way to Puzzoli, you meet with the Hill, which bears the Name of Pausilypus, Pausilypus. [...], say some Etymologists.

Pausilypus noster qui nunc dat nomina monti,
Sic dicta à magno Caesare villa fuit.
Quod foret insanis requies fidissima curis,
Et portum fessa redderet illa rati.

In effect, this delicious Hill hath a charm­ing Situation: It is well cultivated, sprink­led with Houses of Pleasure, and abun­dance of excellent Vines.

It is daily found, that Travellers are obliged to march up more difficult A­scents than this; which naturally was on­ly an easie sloping Ascent, and might have been made almost insensible, by fil­ling up the Ways with Earth, supported by Walls: But out of an extravagant Humour, they pierced the Mountain, and through this Hole, made indeed a shorter Way, and of a more extraordinary Stru­cture, but an hundred times more trouble­some than the Ascent of the Hill: This Cave is commonly called,The Grotta of Puzzoli, or Pausilypus. The Grotta of Puzzoli: It is cut in some places through the Rock, and in other places through the Sand. It is near a Mile in length, thirty or forty Foot in height, and about eighteen in breadth; so that two Coaches may easily pass by each other: There is no Light but at the two ends, and a lit­tle [Page 317] Hole in the middle, over an Oratory, which is made in the Rock, by enlarging that part of the Way a little. This Light is very small; and the Mists of fine Dust, which are raised by every Step we make, almost blind the Passengers: You must wrap up your Head, or cover your Face very well with a Handcherchief, if you will avoid breathing Earth instead of Air. You can see so little in this obscure Cave, that when you hear Company coming at a distance, you must cry out to them, To the Right, or, To the Left, that they may take the opposite side, and nor fall foul on each other as you meet.

This is an ancient Work: Seneca makes mention of it, and complained, as well as we, of its Dust and Darkness.P. Razzani; P. Jovius; L. Alberti; F. Lombardo; and many other Authors. 'Tis attributed to one Cocceius, without men­tioning who he was; and some affirm that he was only the Undertaker; others speak of him as of a Prince or Gover­nour of the Country; and they alledge some ancient Annals, wherein it is said,Schraderus hath also writ­ten the same thing. that an hundred thousand Men, finished this Cavern in fifteen Days, by the Orders of Cocceius.

The Lake of Agnano is between two Hills, a little beyond Pausilypus: The Lake of Agnano. This Lake is almost round, and is about a Mile in circuit: The Water is very clear, and hath no ill taste; you may observe it boil every where, without perceiving any heat. Tench and Eels are there in great a­bundance. On the sides of the Lake are [Page 318] two things considerable; the Caves which are called, The Baths of St. German; and The Grotta di Cane. The Baths of St. German. They tell us a long and fabulous Story, which occasioned the Denomination of these Baths, which, in my Opinion, is not worth the relating: You must know, after the third or fourth step which you make to descend into them, you are seized with a heat, which smells of Brimstome, and which puts you into a sudden sweat. Gouty Persons, and those that are troubled with some other Distempers, which are brought thither from all parts, receive, as they say, great benefit from them.

Grotta di Cani: See the Instructions to a Traveller.The Grotta of the Dog, is, as it were, the beginning of a Cave, at the Foot of a Hill: It is nine Foot long or deep, four and an half broad, and five high: It is not an effect of Art. The bottom is no­thing but pure Earth, or Stone covered with Dust, as the middle of a High-way; and the sides have nothing that is polished or wrought, or any way remarkable: I con­sidered the whole very carefully. They cause you to observe some Drops which fall from above, and which, they say, are caused by the condensation of the Steams rais'd from below, of which I will speak presently. The thing deserves a par­ticular examination; but it is more natu­ral to say, that this Water distills from the Mountain, and pierces the top of the Grot­to; you may see the like in all such pla­ces. There arises out of the Earth in this [Page 319] Grotto, a thin and piercing Exhalation, without any Smoak; this seizes on the Breath, and choaks one in a Minute. This Vapour is vulgarly accounted to be dead­ly Poison, though in appearance it is only a Sulphurous Steam. We need not di­spute about Words; we may call all that kills, deadly; and in this sense, there is not a more deadly Poison than a Mus­quet Bullet; we shall therefore give this Vapour what Name you please, and pro­ceed to give you an account of what hap­pen'd, and what we saw.

He who hath the Key of the Baths of St. Germans, hath also that of this Grotto; for I must tell you by the way, that they do not leave it open. This Man enters standing as upright as he can, to the middle of the Grotto. He bows, and kneels down by degrees, holding his Head always upright; he sits down on his Heels, so that his Hands may touch the Earth: Then he holds the Dog by all his four Feet, and lays him down suddenly on his Side on the Ground; in an instant, the poor Creature falls into Convulsions, turns his Eyes, lolls out his Tongue, stretches himself out without crying, and becomes stiff, and he that holds him, throws him for dead out of the Cave: He is present­ly put into t [...]e Lake, which is not a­bove twenty Paces distant, where, in less than a Minute, he reassumes his Spirits, and swims out of the Water; he runs about crying, as it were to express the [Page 320] Joy for his deliverance.Charles VIII. King of France, made tryal with an Ass; and the Vice-Roy D. Pe­dro de Tole­do, with two Slaves, who died. The Sieur Vil­lemont speaks in his Travels, of a Gentle­man, named Tournon, who stooping in the Grotto, to take up a Stone, was seized by the Vapour, and presently car­ried to the Lake, and in a short time recovered his Spirits: But the Author adds, that Tournon died a few Moments after. Samelli. They have made this Experiment upon Men, and all sorts of Animals, with the same effect. Two Foot from the Earth, and even nearer, there is nothing to be feared, for the Spirits grow thin, and are dispersed; but the lower you stoop, the greater is the danger: These Spirits are sub­tle and violent; they sparkle, and break forth impetuously, and in abundance. We cannot light a Match, without per­ceiving some appearances of the like Na­ture.

The Keeper of the Grotto made also a­nother Experiment: He went in with two great lighted Torches, and when he bowed one near the Ground, it not only ceased to flame, but was quite extinguished, without any Fire or Smoak: He lighted it again with the other, and thus put them out, and kindled them by turns.

They tell us of the like Vapours in a Cave at Zoli in Hungary; and Pliny ma­king mention of this, concerning which I am speaking, calls it Spiraculum Puteolanum, and ranks it with those which he calls Scrobes Charoneae. All the adjacent Coun­try is nothing but Brimstone. We passed by Monte Secco, and Solfatara, which are all full of Brimstone, Allom, and Holes under-ground, whence Flame and Smoak [Page 321] exhale, with Noise and Stink, at least as much as we see at present in Vesuvius: They prepare Roch-Allom on theSolfatara. See, at the end of the Second Volume, the Instructions to a Traveller. Solfa­tara; which is a dry, Yellow and White Mountain, all baked and worn by its own Fire. They erect little Cabbins there, in which they labour at that Work, and the sole heat of the Vents makes the Cal­drons boil.

This Hill, the highest part whereof is worn out by the Fire, is in form of a kind of Oval Basin, about twelve hundred and fifty Foot long, and a Mile in breadth. The Fumes which continually issue out, are often smelt at Naples. They assure me, that by them the Marble is blacken'd, and the Ornaments of their Churches sul­lied, as well as the Goods in their Houses. All these Spirits of Sulphur, Allom, Vi­triol, &c. with which the Earth is filled, do also corrupt the Waters. The Capuchins of St. Januarius, who are near to it, have been constrained to lift up their Cisterns into the Air, upon a Pillar, to hinder its having such Communication with them, as might spoil their Water.

The greatest part of the People in and about Naples, no way doubt, but that the fuming Holes of the Solfatara, are, in a literal sense, the real Chimneys of Hell. Capaccio, who hath very nicely examined the whole matter, is of the same Opini­on: He assures us, that the above-mentio­ned Capuchins, from time to time, hear most frightful Howlings, and are often [Page 322] plagued with Hobgoblins (Spesso sono sta­ti travagliati da il Diavoli, e spesso sentono ul­lulati, & terrori di grandissimo spa vento.) He adds many Stories on this Occasion, which he gives out for certain Truths, and says further, that many People believe that this Country is full of Treasures, which would be easily discovered, but for the wicked Spirits, which domineer there, and keep them.

Going down from thence we came to Puzzoli: PUZZOLI. This City, formerly so famous, is now very inconsiderable. I will say nothing of its ancient Names, nor of its Antiquity, or Etymology, which may be found amongst Geographers; Wars, Earth­quakes, Insults of the Sea, and Time which devours every thing, have almost totally destroyed it: But a great quanti­ty of stately Ruines, demonstrate its an­cient Magnificence. Almost adjoining to St. James's Church, you see the Ruines of anThe Arena or Bottom was 172 Feet long, and 88 broad. Capaccio. Amphitheatre, which was built of hewn Stone. Tradition will have it, that St. Januarius, andSosius, Pro­culus, Eutice­tes, Acutius, Festus, Desi­derius, in the Year 299. O­thers say 305. six other Christians, were here given for a Prey to wild Beasts, but the Beasts adored, instead of devouring them. Some time after, these seven Champions had their Heads cut off near the Solfatara, in that place where now a Church is built, and dedicated to St. Januarius. These Words are written on the Altar: Locus decollationis S. Janua­rii, & sociorum ejus.

[Page 323]Close to the Amphitheatre,Those of Puz­zoli give to this Amphi­theatre the Name of Col­liseum, though they have not the same rea­son for it, as that of Rome. Sarnelli hath written, that it remained entire not long ago, and that the Earthquakes at last destroyed it. It was in the midst of the old City. are great Ruines, almost wholly buried, which they believe are the Remainders of a Laby­rinth; but there is more reason to believe it hath been a Fish-Pond, like the Piscina Mirabilis.

The Cathedral is built on the Ruines of a Temple of Jupiter; and of part of the Materials of that Temple, particular­ly the Frontispiece, where it appears by an ancient Inscription, that it was built by Calphurnius Luc. Fil.

Between the City and the Amphithea­tre, you may observe the Ruines of a Tem­ple of Diana. Towards the Dominicans of Jesu Maria, when the Sea is extremely turbulent, it throws on Shore some new Marks of the old Magnificence of the Palaces of Puzzoli; amongst which are many times found divers sorts of fine Stones, Cornelians, Agats, Jaspars, Ame­thysts, &c. The Antiquaries pretend, that about this place, there were formerly a great Number of Jewellers and Goldsmith's Shops. The Sea also brings up other sorts of Stones, upon which, as well as the o­thers, are several sorts of Figures graved; as Cocks, Eagles, Swans, Hares, Serpents, Grashoppers, Ants, Vine-Branches, Grapes, Ears of Corn, Heads of Men, and others, Motto's of Greek and Latin, &c. Some Peo­ple [Page 324] fansie, that Nature hath formed all these Figures on them; and Superstition attributes several Virtues to them.

The Sand which they use for Build­ing at Puzzoli, deserves to be taken no­tice of. Vitruvius commends it extreme­ly; and Pliny also boasts much of it: It enters the Composition of a certain sort of Mortar, which grows as hard as Marble, even in the Sea it-self.

Taking Boat to go to the Lake Lucrin, which is two Miles from Puzzoli, we had time to consider the famous Arches, which, according to the vulgar Opinion, are some Remains of the Bridge which Cali­gula caused to be built from Bayae to Puzzoli: This is the common Opinion; and those Arches are usually call'd Caligula's Bridge, The Bridge of Caligula. by the People of the Country: They ad­mire this Miracle, and treat Strangers with it, as the rarest, and most surprizing thing in the World: And, without doubt, there would be reason for it, considering so bold a piece of Work, as well deserves to be placed amongst the greatest Prodigies. But by misfortune, this pretended Bridge is a meer Chimaera. Suetonius hath so posi­tively related the History of Caligula's Bride, which was a Bridge of Boats, and not of Brick or Stones, that I cannot but wonder, how so many People, have run into such false Notions. The Histo­ry relates the Matter of Fact clearly: Bajaram, In the Life of Caligula, § 19 saith he, medium intervallum, & Puteolanas moles trium millium, & sexcentorum [Page 325] fere passuum ponte conjunxit, contractis undique onerariis navibus, Per hunc pon­tem ultro ci­tro commea­vit, biduo Continenti. & ordine duplici ad ancho­ras collocatis; superjectoque aggere terreno, ac directo in Appiae viae formam. Primo die phale­rato equo — Postridie quadrgiario ha­bitu, &c.

The reasons which the Author adds, for this Humorous Prince's undertaking such a Work, signifie nothing to the present pur­pose. Observe, I pray, the term of Puteo­lanas Moles, he doth not say Puteolos, but Puteolanas Moles. This clearly explains what those Arches were, which we see at present. This was properly what we call a Mole in our Language,There are 1 Arches. a Rampart a­gainst the violence of the Waves, that Vessels might ride in safety in the Har­bour. It is a thing commonly practised in Sea-Ports. It is true, that this Mole was made in the form of Arches, which is not agreeable to the fashion of modern Times: But this ought not to raise any Scruple; for besides that it is in vain to contest against a thing so well confirmed; we ought to consider, that things are not always done after the same manner. And moreover, one might, in my Judgment, alledge ma­ny substantial reasons to prove, that a Mole with Arches might be more durable than another; and that it may be sufficient to break the Waves, and abate the great Shocks of the Sea.

The Lake of Lucrin, à Lucro dictus, The Lake Lucrino. saith Charles Stephens, because of the great num­ber of Fish found in it, is now but a [Page 326] little Pond, of a quarter of a Mile long, and about one hundred Paces broad. The new Mountain, which I shall presently speak of, hath almost filled it up. This little Lake is not above three or fourscore Pa­ces from the Sea: It was formerly joined to it; and Pliny reports, that they were fain to make use of a great many Ma­chines, to separate them; Mare Tyrrhenum à Lucrino molibus seclusum. Suetonius tells us, that Augustus employed twenty thousand Men, to make a Communication between the Lucrino, and the Averno, and the Sea. He adds, that they made it a Ha­ven.

The Water of this Lake is always Salt: It was renowned for its Oysters, as well as Mount Gaurus. Nuptiae videbant ostreas Lucrinas, saith Varro.

Concha Lucrini delicatior stagni. Martial.

One can hardly mention the Lake Lucrino, without calling to mind the Dol­phin, which Pliny, and other Authors men­tion. The Story is thus: A Dolphin be­came familiarly acquainted with a young Boy, who went every Day to School from Bayae to Puzzoli, and used sometimes to give him Bread: One Day the Dol­phin offered his Back to the School-Boy, and carried him into the Bay, and at last accustomed himself to carry him over to and from School, as often as he desired. Appian affirms, he was an Eye-witness; [Page 327] and adds, that People came from all parts to Puzzoli to see it.Mecaenas and Egesydi­mus, Authors [...]ntemporary, [...]d cited by Th. Garzoni, with Flavia­nus and F. Al­phius relate the same thing. Solinus averrs, that this continued for so long time, that at last it was not looked upon as an extra­ordinary thing. Aristotle tells us so like a Story, that, had he not lived above four Ages before these Authors, one might have concluded it the same. If we should take notice of all that the Naturalists, both Ancient and Modern, have said of the Dolphin, we should have enough to alledge, perhaps, to make the Story credi­ble. All Animals are capable of being taught; and some amongst them may have a more than ordinary inclination to a Man. That which implies no Contra­diction, ought not rashly to beThere is a dif­ference between believing a thing, and not denying it. denied. I have seen a Sea-Calf so very tame, that it would show most of the Tricks which they teach a Spaniel. Camerarius relates a great number of such Examples, in his Historical Meditations, of Dolphins, and o­ther Fishes, taught to a Miracle. I will not contend about the Word Dolphin, or enquire into the modern appellation of the Fish, formerly known by that Name.

In the Night, between the 19th and 20th of September, in the Year 1538. the Earth was brought to Bed of a Mountain, which hath ever since been called the New Moun­tain: Those who have measured it affirm,Monte Nuo­vo, or di Cencre. That it is Four hundred Toises high per­pendicularly, and three Miles and some­thing more in Circuit. Naturalists have [Page 328] observed many ways by which Moun­tains are formed; sometimes by Earth­quakes; sometimes by Winds; other times by subterraneous Eruptions; as when a Mole heaves up the Earth, and makes those little Hillocks which we call Mole-hills. It was after this last manner this new Mountain was formed, as well as the other new one which I have represented to you in the midst of the ancient Gulf of Vesuvius. The new Mountain hath a Gulf of fifty Paces di­ameter in the middle of its top; which sufficiently proves it was produc'd by Erup­tion: But it hath never cast out either Fire or Smoak since those, which were the Causes of so prodigious and dolorous a Birth. The Earth quaked; the Sea recoil­ed; the Lucrin Lake was almost filled up; Churches and Houses were set on fire, and swallow'd up; great numbers of Men and Beasts perished; and there was a general and dreadful Consternation through all the neighbouring Country.

In the County of Hereford.Your Mountain of Markle Hill came into the World after a more calm and pleasant manner; about three and thirty Years after Monte Nuovo. I remember I have read with a great deal of Pleasure, what your Naturalists have written of it. A space of Earth, containing about thirty six Acres, on a sudden broke loose from the neigh­bouring Fields, and softly walked on for about four hundred Paces from [Page 329] thence:Pliny reports, that under the Emperor, Nero in the King­dom of Naples, a Meadow, and a place planted with Olive Trees, loosened themselves from their places and removed. In Thuringia Cespes longitudine 50. pedum, latitudine 14. sine manibus Sublatus, à suo loco 20. pedum spatio trajectus, in Saxonia terra in aggeris mo­dum intumuit. Aimon, Ann. 822. These loosened Fields lifted up with them the Trees and Houses: On both sides the Earth opened it self, and withdrew, to give it passage: It marched a slow and regular pace for three Days and Nights, with little noise or disorder. At last, having chosen a new Mansion, it was pleased to swell and become a Moun­tain, now called Markle Hill. This must be allowed to be more pleasant than the thundring noise of Monte Nuovo.

On the other side of the Lucrin Lake you may behold the Mountain of Christ,Monte di Christo. another famous Hill, whose Adventure was briefly thus; The Earth formerly being sei­zed by an extraordinary quaking and trem­bling, was shaken to its deepest Entrails, and cracked from the Superficies to the very Limbo Patrum; and the entrance into this Cavern, or rather the Mouth of this open­ing, remains to be seen to this very Day. Jesus Christ entring into this dark and sor­rowful Abode, where he had been so long waited for, by those Souls which were de­stin'd to Heavenly Felicity, he led them in Triumph through this Subterranean Pas­sage, and from the top of the Mountain lifted them up to Heaven. I know not what modernAlcadino. Poet hath expressed this pre­tended Story in these two Verses.

[Page 330]
Est locus effregit quo portas Christus Averni,
Et sanctos traxit lucidus inde Patres.

The Lake of Averno, that other Gulf of Hell, is but a good Mile from the Lake of Lucrino; it is near about the same bigness as that of Agnano. It is certain that now Birds fly and swim there; though Virgil, Lucre­tius, Lucian saith the same thing of Acheron. Silius Italicus, Pliny, and several other Authors, have written, that it exhaled formerly a deadly Vapour which killed those Animals.

Aneid. Gr. [...], avibus carens.
Quem super haud ullae poterant impune volantes,
Tentere Iter pennis
Cum venêre volantes, Re­migii oblita pennarum velae remittunt, Precipites (que) cadunt, Lucretius, lib. 6.
Unde locum Graii diuerunt nomine Aumon.

The difference between what we now see of this place, and the Description which the Ancients make of it to us, causes some to tax them commonly for Cheats, with­out any deliberation; particularly Pliny, whose Credit being crack'd on a great many other occasions, is on this, looked upon as a great Lyar. Without undertaking here to make an absolute Apology for him, I must defend him in this particular, and boldly affirm, That he is no Lyar in what he saith of the Lake of Averno. He quotes Varro, as relating a thing which for­merly was, but saith of himself nothing po­sitively. [Page 331] Pliny, a most curious Man, with­out doubt had many times visited this place. I think he was at Cumae, not far from thence, when Vesuvius burnt so terribly under the Empire of Titus; and that going towards that raging Mountain, he was so unfortunate as to lose his Life. It is then probable enough that Pliny would have spoken positively, and as an Eye-wit­ness of the Birds of Averno, if in his time the Air of the Lake had been so fatal to them: But he saith nothing like it. In his Discourses of the Lakes which have extra­ordinary Qualities, he cites Clesias the Greek Historian, who speaks of a Lake of the In­dies, on which nothing swims; and after­wards produces the Testiomony of Varro touching the Averno. Strabo relates, that the Stench of this Lake was partly caused by the Trees that hung over its Sides, which covered and compassed it round a­bout; and he adds, that these Woods being cut down by Augustus's Order, the Air be­came pure, and left off producing its usual effects.

If this matter be true, as it cannot just­ly be doubted, since this Author was Con­temporary to Augustus, and spoke without question, as a knowing Witness, we are not to admire at the positive testimony of Varro, or the Quotation of him by Pli­ny, since the one lived both before, and in the same time with Augustus, and others came not till some time afterwards. With­out being too ready to believe these Writers, [Page 332] we may easily conceive, that things may have received Alterations since their times. Boccace, who lived three hundred years since, relates in his Treatise of Lakes, That some subterraneous stream of Sulphur, mixing with the Averno, the Waters of that Lake became stinking, and killed a great many of the Fish; which, he saith, he saw with his own Eyes. This makes it plainly appear, that this Lake hath not been always in the the same Condition: And the thing may be easily explain'd, if we will but a little reflect on the bituminous and sulphureous Matters, of which the adjacent Country is full. Some Earthquake may have obstructed the Canals of Communication, by which they spread themselves into the Lake A­verno, which formerly poison'd its Waters, and caused it to exhale a subtil Matter, and the more dangerous because the Source was shut up under the shelter of those great Trees which inviron'd it. To imagine that the Birds which fly in the middle Region of the Air over the Lake, should be of­fended with its Exhalations, would be to frame a Chimera to ones self, and make the Historians say what they never intended. There is a great deal of Appearance, or ra­ther 'tis plain and certain, that if the Grotto of the Dog were but four or five times bigger than it is, a Swallow which should fly there, sweeping the Earth, could never rise again: And why must it be reckoned impossible, that some such thing might for­merly happen on the Lake of Averno? One [Page 333] of those places is greater than the other; but that alters not the Matter of Fact. If you would have another somewhat like this, and not so easie to be believed, I will quote your Natural History of England, where it is related, that the Wild Geese fall dead, when they fly directly over a certain place of the Plain of Withay in Yorkshire.

Furthermore, I will here repeat what I have often said, that let things appear to be never so improbable, provided they im­ply no Contradiction, they ought not ha­stily to be condemned for false, without due examination. It must be acknowledged, that the Ignorance of Men conceals more things than their Knowledge could ever discover. We may please our selves with acting the Philosophers, and laugh at occult Qualities, but the Phaenomena of Nature, to speak sincerely, are almost all incomprehensible. We pretend to under­stand, and to be able to explain the Ab­strusest Appearances that happen before our own Eyes, and would be ashamed to own our Ignorance: But if we are told of a­ny thing which surpasses our Under­standing, or we have not before heard of, we immediately conclude it to be either a Miracle or a Lye.

Though the Word Avernus comes from [...], as Virgil said; there are so many Lakes which bear this Name, that we may look upon it as a general Appella­tion for those Sulphurous Gulphs, which [Page 334] the Ancients call the Gates or Throats of Hell; Ostia Ditis; Orci Janua; Inferni Ja­nua Regis, as Virgil calls them. I fansie one might say the same thing of another Lake not far from this, which is one of the Acherons. And it is apparent that this made Lucretius call these kinds of Pools Averna Loca. Silius confounds our Averno with Styx and Cocytus, and the other Ri­vers of Hell; which may contribute to our believing, that these Names became common to many Lakes or Rivers of the like Nature.

The Ruines which appear in many pla­ces on the side of the Hills about the A­verno, shew that this place was extremely well cultivated, after they had cut down the Wood of tall Trees which surround­ed it.

It is uncertain whether the Ruines which are next to the Lake, are of a Temple of Mercury, or of Neptune; but Antiqua­ries agree, that it was not of a Tem­ple of Apollo, as the Vulgar suppose.

I must not forget to tell you, that when one comes near the Averno, he is sud­denly assaulted by a noisome Smell; but am not sure that it proceeds from the Lake; for its Waters are fresh, and clear enough, though they encline something to a dark Blue. I tasted them in severa places, and found they had a little sharp tang of the Mineral; notwithstanding which, the Lake abounds with Fish.

[Page 335]That which they commonly call the Grotto of the Sibyl is hard by.The Grotto of the Sibyl. The chief entrance, as they say, was near to Cumae, about four Miles from Averno, but it is all filled up on that side: We went into the great Grotto by a narrow Passage, pester'd with Briars and Thorns, every one with a lighted Torch in his Hand. The Cavern is dug under the Hillocks, without Ornaments, or any thing remarkable, except the place I will present­ly describe to you. It is about ten Foot broad, and twelve high. After you have gone about two hundred and fifty Paces, without turning, the Grotto hath a square place on the Right, and seventy or eighty Paces farther you find a little Cell of fifteen Foot in length, and eight or nine in breadth: The Roof was formerly painted, and the Walls covered with Mosaick; of which there are still some Remainders: The Earth being fallen some paces beyond the Cham­ber, the Passage is dammed up, and you can go no further.

I remember that after I had read the learned Treatise of Mr. Blondel, concerning the pretended Sibyls, and their supposed Si­bylline Writings, I easily freed my self from the power of vulgar Prejudices, and was fully persuaded that all was chimerical and supposititious: Whatsoever a considerable number of learned Men had formerly said, or some of those honest Doctors of Antiqui­ty, whom we usually call Fathers. I was afterwards confirmed in this Opinion, by studying this Matter with a competent de­gree [Page 336] of Application; and therefore you may easily think,Some pretend that the Cave of the Sibyl was at Cumae, and they cite the de­scription Justin Martyr makes of it. What he said has some relation to what Virgil speaks. But at the bot­tom, the opinion of Justin Mar­tyr is no proof; he tells you what he heard said, which sig­nifies nothing. that I give little credit to what they talk here of this Sibyl's Grotto. Many ancient Authors have spoken of a Sibylla Cumaea, and of a Den to which she retired; and People have imagin'd that this may agree with it, and have consecrated it to her without any other reason than bare imagination, and without alledging any tolerable Arguments. The Passage of Vir­gil, Excisum Euboicae, &c. signifies nothing at all: For besides, that in Virgil's time, the Fable of the Sibyl was accounted an old Er­rour; of which that Author spoke only by Tradition: I cannot see that what he said hath any relation to this Cavern.

Quo lati ducunt aditus centum, ostia centum,
Unde ruunt totidem voces, &c.

There is no appearance that this Cave ever had centum aditus, or centum ostia; but why, I pray, must there be a Cave above a League in length, for the lodging a Sibyl? And what Workmen had she to employ in so prodigious a Task? It is also ridiculous to think that she had her Chamber wain­scotted with Mosaick; a deep and dark Den, hanged with Bats and Cobwebs, is what more properly belonged to this pre­tended mad Woman, than Chambers a­dorned with Painting and Mosaick,

If you will know what is my Opinion of this Den, I must answer you, That per­haps it was a Passage like the Grotto of Pausi­lypus, [Page 337] and perhaps also the PaintedOne may also suppose that there were Baths there for some great Lord. Cham­ber was for some Deity, as the Chapel of the same Grotto of Pausilypus is for a cer­tain Image of our Lady. Strabo relates upon the Testimony of Ephorus, an ancient Histo­rian and Geographer of Cumae, That the Cimmerians of Italy (I call them so, that I may not confound them with those of the Bosphorus) did inhabit between Bayae and the Lake of Averno; that they had no other Dwellings than subterraneous Dens, where they hid themselves all Day, and at Night issued out to perpetrate their Robberies and Murders. We will, if you please, attri­bute the digging of this Cave to them; on­ly the Mosaick agrees little better with them than with the Sibyl. To conclude, though I should tell you, that I neither know the use of this Grotto, nor when it was made, nor who were the Workmen, it would by no means follow that it was the Sibyl's Grotto. Without going further thannear to Mire­mont in Peri­gort, there is a great and fa­mous Cave, called the Clouseau; of which the Country People tell divers Stories: They say, that there are great Halls, Pictures, and Altars, and are per­suaded, that the Pagans there sacrificed to Venus, and the infernal Gods. Moreri. France or England, I might name you a great many such like Caverns, where a Sibyl never was.

Departing from this Cave we took a turn to Bayae; this was formerly,BAYAE. as you know the most pleasant and magnificent place in the World. Horace and Marti­al give it that Character; and Josephus [Page 338] exceeds them both. Martial has some Ex­pressions on this occasion, that are very soft, and yet very strong.

Littus Beatae Veneris aureum Baiae,
Baiae superbae donum naturae.
Ut mille laudem, Flacce, versibus Baias,
Laudabo digne non satis Baias.

He calls Venus blessed, because she ru­led and triumphed in this delicious Ren­dezvous of the Roman Nobilty.

Littora quae fuerant castis inimica Puellis,

said the Poet Propertius. If you would know any thing more particularly touching the Pleasures of Baiae, you need but read the 51st Epistle of Seneca, and what Albinus hath written.

Tu qui Baianas venisti liber ad undas
Aligeri fies praeda cruenta Dei:
Miscuit his ardens Circe lethale venenum, &c.
Omne nefas at (que) omne malum his emersit ab un­dis, &c.

The Bay of Bayae is extremely plea­sant; the Air admirably sweet; and no­thing more charming than the little Hills, which insensibly rise about it. You may there behold the Ruines of many Tem­ples,That which the people call Fruglio, and which many Men take for a Temple, are but the remains of the Baths. Baths, and Palaces, and some of [Page 339] these Remainders of Antiquity appear e­ven in the Sea it-self. All the neighbour­hood of the City was in those times re­plenished with Houses of Pleasure. At present there are heaps of dismal Ruines, which have chang'd these formerly charm­ing places, into a meer frightful Solitude.

Between Bayae and Miseno, in the little Precinct call'd Bauli, near the Tomb of Agrippina, are to be seen the Remains of the Fishpond ofQu. Ort. Hortensius, Colleague ofQ. Cecil. Metellus. That Senator took extream delight in keeping Fishes, and used some of them to take their Food from his Hands. I have read somewhere, that one of his Friends, desiring him to give him two Mullets out of his Pond, he told him, he would sooner part with two Mules out of his Litter.

Near to this, are very great Ruines, commonly called Mercato di Sabbato. Mercato di Sabbato. Some pretend them to be the Remains of a Circus; and those who deny it, know not what to determine.

On the Sea side are great Remainders of the Country-House of Hortensius.

Near the Fish-pond, are the Ruines of a Temple, which, they say, belonged to Diana.

In the Neighbourhood, they dug up some years ago, a very fine Statue of Ve­nus, twice as big as the Life: It holds a Globe in its Right-hand, and three Oranges in its Left. I have read in Capaccio, who hath given a Description of it, that [Page 340] this Statue was found in the place where formerly was the Temple of Venus Geni­trix.

The Elysian Fields.From Bayae 'tis but a large Mile to the Elysian Fields: This is a little, but extraor­dinary delightful Plain, between the Sea and Acheron, Lago della Colluccia. that stinking Marish, which Virgil calls tenebrosa palus. Epirus and Ca­labria have also their Acherons; and I am not ingorant, that the Elysian Fields of Boeo­tia, as well as those of the two Atlantic Isles, or Gorgades Islands, which we place between those of Cape Verd, cannot come in competition with the Elysian Fields, in the Neighbourhood of Bayae.

The Academy of Cicero.I might farther speak of the Academy of Cicero, which serves at present for a Stall for Oxen;The Baths of Tritoli. of the various Baths of Tritoli, which the Physicians of Salernum, endeavoured to render useless, because they were grown so themselves, by reason of the Virtues of these Baths; of the Tomb of Agrippina, The Tomb of Agrippina. Mother of Nero, who was stabbed by Anicetus, between Bayae and Miseno; of the Fishpond ofSome pre­tend it was the Work of Lucullus. Piscina mira­bi [...]is. Cento Came­relle. Agrippa, cal­led Piscina Mirabilis, whose inside is as hard as Marble; of the other Fishpond called Cento Camerelle; and of a great number of Temples, ruinous Palaces, and other Re­mains of Antiquity: But to say Truth, I had not time to observe all these things, with sufficient attention to make an ex­act Description of 'em.

We took Boat at Bayae, and came di­rectly to Puzzeli, where we took Horse [Page] [Page]

Virgil's Tomb

Vol [...] P [...]41

[Page 341] to return to Naples. To Morrow Morn­ing we resolve to depart, and return to Rome.

I have but one Word more to tell you, of the Tomb of Virgil, Tomb of Vir­gil. and that of San­nazarius, before I end this long Letter. On the Pausilypus, just at the Entrance of the Grotto which leads to Puzzoli, is to be seen an ancient Monument, made in form of a Pyramid, and half destroyed; this, they say, is the Tomb of Virgil. Alfonso di [...] Heredia, G. C. Cappaccio, P. Sarnelli, &c. Some Historians of the latter Ages, have writ­ten, that in their Time, there was nine small Columns of Marble in the little Chamber of this Mausolaeum, which support­ed anJohn Villa­ni, a Neapoli­tan Chronolo­ger, saith, this Ʋrn was car­ried to Mantua. Heredia saith, it was at Ge­noua: Others have written, that the Lombards took it away: But all this is without Proof or Appearance of Truth. If the Ʋrn were at Man­tua, or at Genoua, or any where else, they would not fail to show it. Urn of the same Substance, upon which this Distich was engraven:

Mantua me genuit; Calabri rapuere; tenet nunc
Parthenope; cecini, pascua, rura, duces.

At present there are neiter Urn nor Columns. Though this Mausolaeum be built of great squares of Stone, yet is it al­most totally covered with Bushes and Shrubs, which have taken Root amongst them. There is amongst others, to be ob­served, a Laurel on the top of it, and the common Opinion is, that tho' they have often cropped, and plucked it up, yet it still grows again; but nothing hath been yet determined of the occult Vir­tue, [Page 342] which causes this surprizing Effect. Virgil passes among these People of Na­ples, sometimes for aM. Spon ob­serves, that Nostredamus is buried in the Cordeliers at Marseilles, half in the Church, and half without; perhaps be­cause they could not tell whether he was a Wi­zard or a Pro­phet. Conjurer, and sometimes for a Saint. Some Paces from the Tomb, there is a little old Building, which the Gardiner, who is Master of the place, told us was the Chapel where Vir­gil every Day heard Mass. Others pre­tend that he was a Sorcerer, and affirm, that he pierced the Mountain Pausilypus by Art Magick. And besides, they relate that by the same Art he made the Bra­zen Horse, of which I have spoken, whose Head is still to be seen at D. Diomedes Ca­raffa's. They were so much infatuated with this Fancy, that they attributed a Power to this Horse, of curing Horses of all Diseases, and of preserving 'em from all manner of Accidents, which should go about it a certain number of times. In effect; There were formerly a vast number of Pilgrim Horses, which came from the farthest parts of the Kingdom to Naples, and which they led in Procession round this House of Virgil. But at last, a certain Arch-Bishop being displeased with this Extravagance, obtained permis­sion to take away the Horse; out of which he cast the great Bell, which is now in the Cathedral.

The House which Sannazarius had on the Sea-side, at the foot of Pausilypus, be­ing destroyed by the War, he built a Church in the same place; which he de­dicated to the most Holy Birth of the Great [Page 343] Mother of God; and his Tomb is now to be seen in one of the Chapels of that Church. It is of White Marble,The Tomb of Sannazarius. and of exquisite Workmanship, by the Hand ofAnd partly by Frier Gia­nangelo Pog­gibonzo of Montursolo, a Frier Servite. Santa-Croce. On it you see the Bust of Sannazarius, crowned with Laurel: The two great Statues which are placed on each side, are Apollo and Minerva; but they choose rather to call 'em David and Ju­dith, that scrupulous Persons may not be offended, to find the Representations of false Gods, in a Christian Church.

Sannazarius made this Epitaph for him­self:

Actius hic situs est, cineres gaudete sepulti,
Jam vaga post obitus Umbra dolore vacat.

His Friends say that he spoke as a Poet: But they assure us, that on other Occasions, he shewed, that he had a sense of Religion. Bembus made the Distich which they have put on his Tomb:

D. O. M.

Da Sacro Cineri Flores; hic ille Maroni,
Sincerus Musa, proximus ut Tumulo.
Vixit Ann. LXII. A. D. M D. XXX.

James Sannazarius took the Name of Actius Sincerus. at the request of his Friend Joannes Jovianus Pontanus, who had also changed his own Name.

I know not whether you have read the Epigram which Sannazarius made for the [Page 344] City of Venice. It is said, the Senate of that Republick presented him with a thou­sand Sequins for every Verse Others write that he had but Six hundred Crowns of Gold for all..A Sequin is worth about Ten Shillings. Ariosto would have been contented with less for his whole Orlando: Take the Epigram;

Viderat Adriacis Venetam Neptunus in undis,
Stare Urbem, & toti ponere jura Mari.
Nunc mihi Tarpeias, quantumvis Jupiter arces
Objice, & illa tui Moenia Martis, ait.
Si Pelago Tiberim praefers, Urbem aspice utram (que)
Illam homines dices, hanc posuisse Deos.

I must at last conclude my Letter. Please to give my Service to all our good Friends, and believe I shall always remain,

SIR,
Yours, &c.
The End of the First Volume.

A TABLE OF THE PRINCIPAL MATTERS OF THE First Volume.

A.
  • ACademies of Painting at Venice, 171
  • Academy of M. de la Vallée at the Hague, 12
  • Academy of Cicero, a Stall for Oxen, 340
  • Adriatick-Sea married by the Venetians, 200
  • Agnano Lake, 317
  • Agrippina murdered, 340
  • Alexander III. sets his Foot on the Neck of the Emperour Frederick Barbarossa, 161, 166
  • Alexander III. instituted the Ceremony of Mar­rying the Sea at Venice, 200
  • Alps, 93
  • Almond-Tree of St. Francis, 274
  • Altar on which St. Peter celebrated his first Mass, 236
  • [Page]Ambassadors make their Entries in Gondola's at Venice, 199
  • Amphitheatre of Verona, 116
  • Amras, 100
  • Amsterdam, 21
    • Number of Catholicks, Lutherans, Ana­baptists, and other Sectaries which are at Amsterdam, 24
    • Its Burse, or Exchange, 27
    • Its Illustrious School, Ibid.
  • Ancona, 226
  • Andernach, 42
  • Andrew King of Hungary, 299
  • Angel Gabriel passes through the Window of the Holy House, 235
  • Aniello, Thomas, Rebel of Naples, 305
  • Antenor's Tomb, 134
  • — Bonnet, 163
  • Antick Pieces, 91
  • Antiquities of Naples, 307
  • Ape with Wings, 16
  • Apparition of St. Mark, 157
  • Apartments principal at the tops of Houses, 108
  • Applauses of the Gondoliers of Venice, 193
  • Arch of Trajan at Ancona, 227
  • Arch-Bishop eaten by Rats, 44
  • Ariosto's Epitaph, 215
  • Armenians, their Religion, 180
  • Arms of Cologn, 39
  • Arms of the Electorate of Mentz, 48
  • Arms of Ausbourg, 81
  • Arms of Venice, 156
  • Arms of Naples, 307
  • Arnheim, 31
  • [Page]Arsenal of Nuremberg, 69
  • — Of Ingolstadt, 77
  • — Of Ausbourg, 83
  • — Of Munich, 92
  • — Of Venice, 168
  • — Another, 199
  • —Of Loretto, 245
  • Arsenals of France, 77
  • Artillery, 74
  • [...], 121
  • Ash-Tree of Poland, 131
  • Averno Lake, 330
  • Aversa, 284
  • Augustus, 262
  • Ausbourg, 80
  • —The Confession, 84
B.
  • Baccharach. 43
  • Baiae, 337
  • Banditti of Naples, 308
  • Barbarossa, Frederick I. 161, 166
  • Barbarossa Hariaden, 273
  • Basilisks, 122
  • Baths of St. German, 318
  • Baths of Tritoli, 340
  • Chaplets of Beads, 246
  • Bears which devour Grapes, 110
  • White Bears, 105
  • Feather-Beds, 31
  • Beer ordinary Drink in Bavaria, 93
  • Beguines, 25
  • Bell makes a Tempest cease, 236
  • Bezoar, 78, 95
  • [Page]Bishops in Germany Sovereign Princes, 82
  • A Bishop rais'd from the Dead, 251
  • A Bishop refuses to be made a Cardinal, 302
  • Blasphemies, 85
  • Boats of Trunks of Trees made hollow, 94
  • Boccace, 332
  • Boccoldus, or John of Leyden, Head of the Anabaptists, 18
  • St. Mark's Body, 156
  • Bolsane, 109
  • Boniface VIII. 234
  • Bonn, 42
  • A Book of the first Impression that ever was made, 69
  • Bourgomaster of Palemberg, 64
  • Bravo's of Venice, 195
  • Brennerberg Mountain, 105
  • Bread at Venice bad, 185
  • An ancient Bridge, 221
  • Bridge of Caligula, 324
  • Bridge Milvius, 260
  • Bridge of Ponte-Molle, 260
  • Bridge of Rialto, 182
  • Bridges of Venice, 184
  • Brixen, 108
  • Broglio at Venice, 155
  • 24 Brothers with their 24 Wives at one Table, 181
  • Three Brothers poison'd, 303
  • Buffalo's, 248
  • Buffoons in the Opera's, 193
  • Bull Golden, 51
  • Burial, 124
  • A Man Buried alive, 302
C.
  • [Page]Cabbins of Trunks of Willows, 94
  • Cabinet of Curiosities at Leyden, 15
  • — Of M. Viati at Nuremburg, 70
  • — Of the Elector Palatine at Newberg, 78
  • — Of the Emperour at Amras, 101
  • — Of Count Mascardo at Verona, 120
  • Cajeta, 277
  • Caligula, 324
  • Cento Camerelle, 340
  • Campania the Happy, 283
  • Canals of Holland, 3
  • — Of Venice, 154
  • Grotta di Cane, 318
  • Cannon very great, 69
  • Cannon Powder, 74
  • Cannon, the Invention, Ibid.
  • Cannon, a Piece made whilst a Duke din'd, 199
  • Canons call'd Cardinals, 301
  • Capua, 282
  • Cardinal Barberigo preacheth himself, 210
  • Cardinals, their Privileges, 301
  • Carnival of Venice, 189
  • —The same, 197
  • Carob-Tree, 276
  • Carrara Franc. a cruel Man, 169
  • Santa Casa, 231, 236, 263
  • Cascade of Terni, 257
  • Castle of Zeist, 30
  • Castles on the Rhine, 42
  • A Wing'd Cat, 16
  • Cathedral of Ravenna, 218
  • Catholica, 223
  • [Page] Cavaletto, a little Fish, 224
  • Caves great, 71, 245
  • Cellars to keep Wine fresh, 263
  • Cavern which leads to the Limbus Patrum, 329
  • Celestin, Pope, driven out by Boniface VIII. 234
  • Ceremonies of the Greeks, 177
  • Cervia, 221
  • Cesenate, ibid.
  • Chairadin Barbarossa, 273
  • Chamber where the Election of the Emperour is made, 50
  • —Where Augustus was nursed, 263
  • Chamber of Thomas Aquinas, 273
  • Changes happen'd to the Surface of the Earth, 268, 269
  • Chapel, a fair one, 137
  • —Of the Virgin, 342
  • Cariot with Wheels and Sails, 11
  • Charles IV. Emperour, 51
  • Charles I. King of Naples, caused Conra­din's Head to be cut off, 304
  • Curious Cherry-Stone, 308
  • Church Common to the Lutherans and Papists, 55
  • Church common for three Religions, 60
  • Church with eight Doors, 75
  • St. Justin's Church, 137
  • Churches of Naples very fine, 286
  • St. Christopher's Pole and Palm-Tree, 275
  • — His Nail, 275
  • Chiusa a Fort, 114
  • A large Church-yard, 75
  • Church-yards rare in Italy, 265
  • Cicero's Palace, 276
  • [Page] Circello, Mountain, 264
  • Circumcisions different, 123
  • Citta Castellana, 259
  • Cities frequent in Holland, 2, 30
  • Cities ruin'd by Beasts, 45
  • Citta di la Vigna, 262
  • Civenchu, a Bridge in Japan, 183
  • St. Clara, 250
  • Climats, 87
  • Clitumnus, 252
  • Clousea, a Cavern in Perigort, 337
  • Coaches drawn by Mules at Naples, 309
  • Coblentz, 42
  • Cocceius, 317
  • Coffer, little one furnished with Pistols, 169
  • Cologn, 33
  • Columns brought by the Devil, 67
  • Columns in the State of Venice, 220
  • —Of the Temple of Solomon, 279
  • Comedies of Venice, 193
  • Comedians crush'd to pieces, 226
  • Companions of Ulysses, 264
  • Concord Church of the Palatinate, where there are Three Religions exercis'd, 60
  • Concubines, 188
  • Confession of Ausbourg, 84
  • Cord or Rope of Judas, 103
  • Golden Cord or Halter, 165
  • Coronet of the Duke of Venice, 163
  • Corona Pudicitiae, 124
  • Cork-Trees, 266
  • Corselets of Gold, 163
  • Coster, Inventer of Printing; first Book which he printed; his Statue, and Inscripti­on at Harlem, 19
  • [Page]Council of Trent, 112
  • —Of Rimini, 223
  • Counts Palatine, 43
  • Countess of Henneberg brought to Bed of 365 Children, 13
  • A large Cross-Bow, 36
  • Cross-Bow which discharged 34 Arrows at once, 102
  • Pocket Cross-Bow, 169
  • Crown of Charles the Great, 67
  • Crown which spake, 292
  • Crowns of Cyprus and Candie, 163
  • Crown of our Lady of Loretto, 235
  • Cruelty, 141, 169, 273
  • Crucifix with a Peruke, 39
  • —Which approved of the Council of Trent, by bowing its Head, 111
  • —Made of an unknown Matter, Ibid.
  • Crucifix drawn from a Man crucified, by Mi­chael Angelo, 289
  • —Which spoke to Thomas Aquinas, 291
  • —Which spoke to Pius V. Ibid.
  • —Which bowed its Head, seeing a Cannon-Bullet coming, Ibid.
  • —Which spoke to a sacrilegious Person, 294
  • A long Culverin, 83
  • A large Cup of a single Torquoise, 163
  • Courtezans at Venice, 87, 88, 89
D.
  • Dantes, 219
  • Delf, 10
  • Description of Holland, 1, 2, &c.
  • —Of the Holy House, 230, &c.
  • [Page]Devil appears in the shape of a Hog, 305
  • Doesberg, 31
  • Doge of Venice, 204
  • Door of the Wood of a Vine, 218
  • Dove: See Pigeon.
  • Drunkards, 71
  • Drusus, 47
  • Duisberg, 32
  • Dukes of Aquitain and Normandy, 205
  • Duras, Charles de, 299
  • Dusseldorp, 33
E.
  • Ehrenbreistein, 43
  • Election of the Emperour, 50, 51
  • Election Miraculous, 218
  • Electorate of Mentz, 48, 49
  • Elysian Fields, 340
  • Cardinals when first call'd their Eminencies, 301
  • Emperours, how Elected, 50, 51
  • Epigram for the City of Venice, 344
  • Epitaph of Pope Lucius III. 117
  • —Of Titus Livius, 140
  • —Of Conradin, 305
  • —Of Ariosto, 215
  • —Of Sannazarius, 343
  • —Of Dante, 219
  • —Of a Maid who died just before Mar­riage, 295
  • —Of Robert, King of Naples, 296
  • —Of the Marquess of Pescara, 297
  • —Of Three Brothers poisoned by their Uncle, 303
  • —Several Epitaphs at Naples, 293, &c.
  • [Page]—Of Joan I. Queen of Naples, 299
  • —Of a King of Fez, 300
  • —Of Innocent IV. Ibid.
  • —Of a Bishop who refused the Cardinal's Hat, 302
  • Equites Liberi, 42
  • Statues erected in honour of Erasmus, 8
  • Etymology of St. Longin, 264
  • —Of St. Tiphines, 264
  • Eve created by the Virgin Mary, 85
F.
  • Fabian Pope, how elected, 219
  • Fano, 224
  • Fancies of Men, 107
  • Ferrara, 214
  • Feasts of the Carnival at Venice, 197
  • Feast of the Ascension, 200
  • Ficus Indica, 264
  • Fisherman makes himself Head of a Common-Wealth at Naples, 305
  • Way Flaminia, 259, 268.
  • Flux and Reflux, 171, 229
  • Foetus's of all Ages, 30
  • Foligno, 250
  • Fondi, 272
  • Fountains fine, 66, 67, 246
  • Fountains salt, 106
  • Fountains of Brass, 258
  • Forrest of Olive-Trees, 255
  • Fossa Nuova, 267
  • Foxes White, 105
  • Frier Paulo, 212
  • Francfort, 50
  • Frenchmen fear'd, 281
  • [Page] Francis of Assisa call'd St. Francis, 251
  • Frankendal, 59
  • Frederick I. call'd Barbarossa, at the Feet of Pope Alexander III. 161, 166
  • Frederick Arch-Duke, 98
  • Funeral Pomp, 124
G.
  • Galeasses, 200
  • Garigliario, a River, 282
  • Gates of Brass at Ravenna, 220
  • Geese fall dead flying over a Plain in York­shire, 333
  • Gelt Persons, 211
  • Germans great drinkers, 71
  • Holy Ghost in form of a Dove, 218
  • Giant, 9
  • Giants Bones, 59
  • Girls sent to the Convent in their Infancy, 186
  • Glass as big as a Bell, 72
  • Glasses honour'd in Germany, Ibid.
  • 100 Glasses in a Pepper-Corn, 85
  • Glass-Windows rare in Italy, 229
  • Glaucus, 264
  • Globe us'd at the Emperour's Coronation, 68
  • Goldsmiths Work, 85
  • Golf Adriatick frozen, 146
  • —Belongs to the Venetians, 200
  • —Its Shores, 224
  • Gondola of the Wood of a Palm-Tree turn'd in­to Stone, 92
  • Gondola's of Venice, 197
  • Gondolier's of Venice, Jacks of all Trades, Ibid.
  • Gospel of St. Mark, 164
  • [Page]Government of Venice often changed, 174
  • Grates of the Venetian Nuns, 210
  • Greeks of Venice, their Ceremonies, Religi­on, &c. 178
  • Greeks excommunicate the Pope, 180
  • Grotto of Pausilypus, 316
  • —Of the Dog, 318
  • —Of Sibylla Cumaea, 335
  • Grotto's cool, 263
  • Grusse, 104
  • Gueret Bastiense, a Giant, 9
  • Gueux, 36
H.
  • Habits extraordinary, 86, 101
  • Habits of the noble Venetians, 202
  • Great Halls, 82, 90, 138, 166
  • White Hares, 104
  • Hariaden, or Chairaden Barbarossa, King of Algier, and Admiral to the Turk, 273
  • Harlem, 18
  • PRINTING first invented there, 19
  • Red Hats, when given to Cardinals, 301
  • Hatton II. Arch-Bishop of Mentz, eaten by the Rats, 44, 45
  • Hague, 10
  • Heidelberg, 62
  • Helvia Racina, 247
  • Hermeistein, 43
  • Herod, 45
  • Hieroglyphicks, 56, 118
  • History of the Rhine, 17
  • [Page]—Of Milser, 96
  • —Of a Lady stabb'd, 141
  • —Of the Holy House, 230, &c.
  • —Of the Bishop of Corsica, 251
  • —Of Three Brothers poison'd by their Uncle, 303
  • —Of a Brazen Horse, 342
  • Holland, 1, 2, 3, &c.
  • —Of the Number of its Inhabitants, of its Cities and Towns. Its Cities are of Three different Ranks: Neatness of its Hou­ses, Ships, Stables: Number of Ships in Holland: Inundations, Imposts, 1, 2, 3, &c.
  • Honours given to the Duke of Venice, 206
  • Horns used for Ornaments in Germany, 75
  • Horn of an Oxe very large, 102
  • Horses in a Garret, 40
  • Turkish Horses richly harnassed, 101
  • Four fine Horses of Brass, 158
  • Sea-Horse, 224
  • A Story of a Brazen Horse, 342
  • Pilgrim Horses, Ibid.
  • Hospital of Four hundred thousand Crowns Year­ly Rent at Naples, 287
  • Hungarians come to Cologn, 37
I.
  • John Angelicus of Fiesola, a Dominican, refuseth the Arch-Bishoprick of Florence, 302
  • Joan I. Queen of Naples, 299
  • Jesuits slighted and humbled, 177
  • Jesuits go to Opera's, 216
  • Ignorance most gross, 245
  • Image of the Republick of Venice, 204
  • [Page]Image of Jesus Christ which spoke, 291
  • —Of the Virgin Mary, which spoke, 292
  • Impression first, 69
  • Informers rewarded, 170
  • Infula, or Crown for the Coronation of the Em­perour, 67
  • Ingoldstadt, 76
  • Innocent IV, 300
  • Inquisition of State at Venice, 206
  • Inquisition concerning Religion, Ibid.
  • Inscription touching Vesuvius, 314
  • Inspruck, 97
  • Interamna, or Interamnium, 255
  • Invention of PRINTING, 19
  • —Of Cannon Powder, 74
  • Isselburg, 31
  • Itru, 275
  • Jews of Amsterdam, 23
  • —Of Francfort, 53, 113
  • —Of Worms, 56
  • —Of Nuremberg, 75
  • —Of Ausbourg, 82
  • —Of Trent, 112
  • Jews, why driven out of France, Ibid.
  • St. Justina, a fine Church, 137
K.
  • Keiserswaert, 32
  • M. Ker kringius, 30
  • King of the Romans, 52
  • The Three Kings, 36
  • Knife of Stone, 123
  • Knife taken out of a Man's Stomach, 15
L.
  • [Page]Lagunes of Venice, 147
  • Lake of Agnano, 317
  • —Of Lucrin, 325
  • —Of Averno, 329, &c.
  • Lance of St. Longin, 68
  • Lanuvium, 262
  • Lavinium, Ibid.
  • Laurel-Tree of Virgil, 341
  • Laurel-Trees in the Hedges, 265
  • Lent makes Venice desolate, 198
  • Leyden: Number of its Scholars; Anatomy-Hall; Cabinet of the Indies, 14, 15
  • Liberty of Venice true Licenciousness, 175
  • Library at Heidelberg, 63
  • —At Nuremberg, 69
  • —Of St. Mark, 170
  • —Of Count Gambalonga, 222
  • Limbo Patrum, 329
  • Lirts, a River, 282
  • Loggietta, what it is, 168
  • London, 22
  • St. Longin, 264
  • Loretto, 230, 246
  • Losdun, 12
  • Lucius III. Pope, 117
  • Lucrin Lake, 325
  • Lucullus's Fish-Pond, 340
  • Luther, 58
M.
  • Macerata, 248
  • Machine to light Five hundred Matches all at once, 169
  • [Page]Maid a Soldier, 9
  • —A Drummer, 26
  • Maids hir'd and sold, 188
  • A Maid sold, 216
  • Marquess de Capra's House of Pleasure, 130
  • Malatestes, a Family, 221, 222
  • Manheim, 60
  • Marbles false, 92
  • Mark d' Aviano, a Capuchin, 78, 211
  • St. Mark's Body, 156
  • —Gospel, 164
  • —Apparition, 157
  • Markle-Hill, a new Mountain sprung up in England, 328
  • Marino, 261
  • Marquesses of the State of Venice, 203
  • Marchioness of Obizzi, Story of her, 141
  • Masquerades at Venice, 195
  • Masks or Visors worn at Venice at other times beside the Carnival, 197
  • Mausolaeum of Theodoricus, 217
    • See Tomb.
  • Maximilian I. 97
  • Mazaniello, 307
  • Maze, 16
  • Medals, 91, 101, 103, 283
  • Mein River, 49
  • Mentz, 47
  • Mentz, Arch-Bishop, 48
  • Mothers who let to Hire, and sell their Daugh­ters, 188
  • Metamorphosis of Scylla, 264
  • Milser, his History, 96
  • Minturna, a ruin'd City, 281
  • Mitre, Trojan, 163
  • [Page] Maenus, 49
  • Monks curious People, 196
  • —Ignorant, 212, 249
  • Monk, refused the Arch-Bishoprick of Florence, 302
  • Mola, 276
  • Mole of Puzzoli, 325
  • Monastery, a great one, 138
  • Money of Venice, 208
  • Mount Berick, its Nostre-dame, 130
  • Mount Vesuvius, 309
  • Fiery Mountain, 105
  • Mountain cleft on the Day of the Passion, 278
  • Mountain of Markle-Hill, 328
  • Monte Circello, 264
  • Monte Nuovo arose in a Night, 327
  • Monte di Christo, Ibid.
  • Mosaick, what it is, 159
  • Moses's Rock, 161
  • Mule of Thomas Aquinas, 267
  • Mules draw Coaches at Naples, 309
  • Munich, 88
  • —Description of its Palaces, 90
  • Mushrooms turn'd to Stone, 123
  • Musick-Houses, 26
  • Musicians of Manheim, 61
  • —Gelt, 211
  • Musick Italian, 192
  • Myrtles, 265
N.
  • Nail of St. Christopher, 275
  • Naples, 284
  • Narni, 258
  • Neckar River, 62
  • [Page] Nero lamented, 190
  • Newburg, 78
  • Noble Venetians, 155, 201, 203
  • Nobility, according to the Vulgar Expression, consists only in Opinion, 201
  • Nostre-dame of Newburg, 79, 109
  • —Of Mount Berick, 130
  • —Of Rain, 222
  • —Of Loretto, 231
    • See the Word Image,
  • Nuremberg, 65
  • Sea-Nymph, 20
O.
  • Obizzi, Marchioness, a Lady of extraordinary Virtue, 141
  • Olives, 255
  • Olive-Trees, 254
  • Olive-Trees of Nazareth, 274
  • Opera of the Ascension, 110
  • Opera's of Venice, 193
  • Orange-Trees of St. Thomas Aquinas, 274
  • Orange-Tree of St. Dominick, Ibid.
  • Oratories of the Virgin in the Alps, 108
  • Organs very fine, 112
  • Ornaments at the Coronation of the Emperour, 67
  • Otricoli, 259
  • Oxen shod, 106
  • Oxe which spoke, 292
  • Oysters at Venice, not very good, 172
P.
  • [Page]P's four of Venice, 184
  • Padlocks for Women, 169
  • Paduan a good Country, 132
  • Padua, Ibid.
  • Peasants, Burgomasters, 64
  • —Which sell Medals, 283
  • Palace of the Elector of Cologn, 42
  • —Of the Elector of Mentz, 44
  • —Of the Elector of Palatine, 90
  • —Of the Elector of Triers, 43
  • —Of the Duke of Venice, 165
  • —Of Cicero, 276
  • Palaces of Italy criticised, 128, 129
  • Palatine Counts, 43
  • Palemberg, 64
  • Palm-Tree of St. Christopher, 275
  • Fra. Paolo, 212
  • Paper-Works, 7
  • Parthenope, 284
  • Passage dangerous, 108
  • Mr. Patin, 143
  • Pattens of Holland, 3
  • Patriarch of Venice, 210
  • Partridges White, 105
  • Limbo Patrum,
  • Pavement rough, 275
  • Pausilypus, 316
  • Pearl, a singular one, 244
  • Peruke miraculous, 39
  • Pesaro, 223
  • Peter de Luna, 247
  • Dr. Peters, 53
  • [Page]People of Naples very wicked, 308
  • Phantome, 240
  • Pharaoh, 45
  • Philosophy vain, 333
  • Physicians of Salerno, 340
  • Pictures, 78, 130, 143
  • —By Giotto, Titian, and others, 171
  • —At Naples, 288, 289
    • See the Instructions to a Traveller.
  • Pictures criticised, 57
  • Pigeon miraculous at Cologn, 38
  • —At Ravenna, 218
  • 200000 Pilgrims at Loretto in one Year, 242
  • Pine-Apples of Italy, 220
  • Piperno, 265
  • Pisca Marina, a Rock, 271
  • Piscina Marabilis, 154
  • Place of St. Mark, 195
  • Plain of Withay in England, 333
  • Poignard of Frier Paulo, 212
  • Politicks of Venice, 172, 190
  • Poppiel King of Poland eaten by the Rats, 46
  • Poor Noblemen at Venice, 202
  • Potenza, a River, 247
  • Powder for Cannon, 74
  • Present of the Queen of England to the Lady of Loretto, 237
  • Priests, and other Ecclesiastical Persons are exclu­ded the Counsel of Venice, 177
  • Priests who have Concubines, 189
  • —Ignorants, 210
  • —Gelded, 211
  • Priapus, vegetable, 16
  • Primicerio of Venice, 157
  • [Page]Print of the Feet of a Horse, 67
  • Print of the Feet if a Mule, 267
  • Procession of the Hungarians, 37
  • Fine Prospects, 34, 93, 155, 249, 286, 290
  • A fine Prospect, 23
  • Psalftz, 43
  • Puteolanum Spiraculum, 320
  • Puzzoli, 322
Q.
  • Qui va li of Padua, 133
R.
  • Rarities Natural, 15
    • See Cabinets of Curiosities.
  • Rats which eat a King, and an Arch-Bishop, 45
  • Ravenna, 216
  • Recanati, 247
  • Religious Women, or Nuns of Venice, 211
  • Religion of the Greeks, 177, &c.
  • —Of the Armenians, 176, 180
  • Relicks curious, 290
  • Republick of St. Marin, 175, 223
  • Rhine River, 16, 46
  • Rialto Bridge, 182
  • Riches of the Holy House, 243
  • Ridotti of Venice, 194
  • Rimini, 221
  • Ring of St. Mark, 157
  • Robert of Naples, 296
  • Rock of the Emperor Maximilian I. 97
  • Rock of Moses, 161
  • Another Rock, 97
  • [Page]Rock softned, 279
  • Rodomontades, 128
  • Roof cover'd with Gold, 98
  • Rovigo, 214
  • Rotterdam, 6
  • Roveredo, 114
  • Rubicon, 221
S.
  • Sacrificing Utensils, 121
  • Salernum, Physicians of, 340
  • Salmon, 8
  • Sannazarius, 342, &c.
  • Savii grandi, 202
  • Sceptre of the Emperour, 68
  • Scholars of Padua, 133
  • Scrobes Charoneae, 320
  • Scylla Metamorphos'd, 264
  • Sea retreated from Ravenna, 216
  • —From Rimini, 222
  • Senegallia, 225
  • Serpents Skin with Arabick Characters natu­rally figur'd, 16
  • Serpent fifteen Foot long, taken near Ulm, 101
  • Setia, 264
  • Shirt made of Guts, 15
  • Miraculous Shiverings, 245
  • Sibyls, 335
  • St. Simonin, a Child martyr'd by the Jews, 112
  • Sixtus V. undertook to extirpate the Banditti out of St. Peters Patrimony, 307
  • Sleeves of the Noble Venetians, 202
  • [Page] Solfatara Mountain, 320
  • Somma Mountain, 254
  • Sorcerer, 67
  • Soucelle, a Tree, 275
  • Spaccata, a Mountain cloven in two on the Day of our Saviour's Passion, 282
  • A Spring from whence two Rivers flow, 15
  • Spring in the Winter, 109, 250, 254
  • Spiraculum Puteolanum, 320
  • Spoils of Pavia, 220
  • Spoletta, 253
  • Starling with great Ears, 16
  • Statue of Erasmus, 8
  • Statues, many of Brass at Inspruck, 100
  • —Of Adam and Eve, 158
  • Greek ones, 171
  • —Animated, 204
  • —Of Alexander VII. 220
  • —Of Paul V. 222
  • —Of Urban VIII. 224, 263
  • —Of Popes represented sitting, Ibid
  • —Of Gods sweating, 292
  • —Of Jupiter, who thundered with Laugh­ter, Ibid.
  • Steinbokt, an Animal in the Alps, 105
  • Bezoar-Stone, 95
  • Miraculous Stones, 251
  • Stone Knife, 123
  • The Devil's Stone, 37
  • Stoves of Germany, 114
  • Prodigious Strength, 100, 103
  • Superstition Popular, 263
  • Susanna, 91
  • Sweetness out of Bitterness, 255
  • Sword us'd at the Emperor's Coronation, 68
T.
  • [Page]Tabacco, 30, 65
  • Tent of the Grand Visier, 92
  • Terracina, 271
  • Terni, 255
  • Theatines, 288
  • St. Theodore neglected at Venice, 157
  • Thief hang'd with a Golden Halter, 165
  • Treacle, 53
  • Thomas Aniello, 305
  • St. Thomas Aquinas, 267, 274
  • Thomas Schuweiker wrote with his Foot, 59
  • Thorns without Pricks, 280
  • Treasury of Munich, 91
  • —Of St. Mark, 162
  • —Of Loretto, 243
  • Tyber, 259
  • Titus Livius, 139
  • Tolentino, 248
  • Tomb of St. Ursula, 38
  • —Of a Daughter of a Duke of Brabant, Ibid.
  • —Of the Electors of Mentz, 49
  • —Of Drusus, 47
  • —Of the Counts Palatines, 63
  • —Of the Emperour Louis IV. 89
  • —Of Maximilian I. 100
  • —Of the Scaligers, 120
  • —Of Antenor, 134
  • —Of Lupatus, 136
  • —Of Titus Livius, 139
  • —Of Ariosto, 215
  • [Page]—Of Theodoricus, 217
  • —Of Placidia Galla, 219
  • —Of Valentinian and Honorius, Ibid.
  • —Of the Poet Dante, Ibid.
  • —Of Gregory XII. 247
  • —Of Charles of Bourbon, Constable of France, 278
  • —Of Munatius Plancus, Ibid.
  • Tombs, many at Naples, 293, &c.
  • Tomb of Agrippina, 340
  • — Of Virgil, 341
  • —Of Sannazarius, 343
  • Torrents of Sulphur kill the Birds that fly over Averno, 332
  • Tower gilded, 155
  • Tower of Orlando, 278
  • Trachyna, 271
  • Treaty between the Elector of Brandenburg, and the Duke of Newburg, concerning the free exercise of the Protestant and Roman Religions, 31
  • A Tree Two thousand Years old, 274
  • Trent, 110
  • Three Taverns, or the ThreeShops, 264
  • Cunning Trick of the Priests of Loretto, 244
  • Trunks of Vines very great, 218
  • Troop of Beggars, 95
  • A monstrous Tun, 62
V.
  • Valmanara, Garden of the Count of that Name, 131
  • Vanity of Vanities, 209
  • [Page] Velino, a River which throws it-self down near Terni, 256
  • Velitri, 262
  • Venice, 147
  • —Often falln from its Constitution, 173
  • Vessels of the Virgin Mary, 235
  • Verdure perpetual, 254
  • Verona, 115
  • —Original of a Procession made there every Year, 124
  • Verses on the Conception of the Prince of Wales, 238
  • Vertue sacrific'd, 141
  • Vesuvius, 309
  • Via Flaminia, 259, 268
  • Via Appia, 268
  • Viae Consulares, 270
  • Vicenza, 127
  • Vines, 115, 218
  • Villa Marii, 261
  • Virgil of the Vatican, 163
  • Virgil's Tomb, 341
  • Virgil sometimes a Saint, sometimes a Witch, 342
  • Virgin Mary created Eve, 85
  • 11000 Virgins, 38
  • Union of Utrecht, 29
  • University of Utrecht, Ibid.
  • —Of Duisbourg, 32
  • —Of Mentz, 49
  • —Of Heidelberg, 63
  • —Of Dillingen, 82
  • —Of Ferrara, 215
  • Voyages pleasant, 144
  • [Page] Volturno River, 282
  • St. Ursula, 38, 227
  • Utensils of Sacrifices, 121
  • Utrecht, 29
W.
  • Prince of Wales's Conception, and Verses on that Occasion, 237, 238, 239
  • Deep Wells, 67
  • Wesel, 31
  • Wiligise Elector of Mentz, and Son of a Cart-Wright, 48
  • Wimpsen, 64
  • Wind-Gun, 70
  • Wine of Venice, 185
  • Wine cheap, 65
  • Winsheim, 64
  • Withay Plain in York-shire, 333
  • A Woman rais'd from the Dead, 38
  • A Woman brought to Bed of Six Boys, 9
  • —Of 365 Children, 12, 13
  • —Of 36 Children, 14
  • A Woman in Mourning, 86
  • A Virtuous Woman, 141
  • Women common, 188
  • —Enslaved, 186
  • —Oddly cloath'd, 47
  • —Padlock'd, 169
  • Curious Works in Paper, 7
  • —In Ivory, 85
  • Worms, 55
  • Woorburg, 10
  • Curious Writing, 59
Z.
  • [Page]Zeist, a fine House of the Count Nassaw Odyck, 30
The End of the Table of the First Volume.
A New Voyage TO ITAL …

A New Voyage TO ITALY, With a Description of the Chief Towns, Churches, Tombs, Libraries, Palaces, Statues, and Antiquities of that Country.

Together with Useful INSTRUCTIONS for those who shall Travel thither.

By MAXIMILIAN MISSON, Gent.

Done into English, and adorn'd with FIGURES.

Vol. II.

LONDON: Printed for R. Bentley, at the Post-House in Russel street, Covent-Garden; T. Goodwin, at the Queens Head; and M. Wotton, at the Three Daggers in Fleet-street; and S. Manship, at the Ship in Cornhill, 1695.

A NEW VOYAGE TO ITALY. To D. W.
VOL. II.

LETTER XXIII.

I Cannot express the Pleasure with which I read your long Letter, that part of it especially which assures me that my Letters have given you some Satis­faction.

I do not intend to trouble you with Reflexi­ons on the present Occurrences in your Coun­try, of which you have given me an Account: For besides, that such a Design would engage me into long and useless Digressions, I am per­swaded, that an Answer to those new Questions [Page 2] which you propose concerning Venice, will be more acceptable to you. I will endeavour then to answer them succinctly, and in the same or­der in which you have rank'd them; and after­wards proceed to entertain you with my Obser­vations concerning Rome.

I. Your Venetian Gentleman may affirm as positively as he pleases, That Venice contains Two hundred and fifty thousand Souls; but you must not imagine, that because he is a Citizen of Venice, he must be a competent Judge of the number of its Inhabitants; that is a thing which neither his Eyes nor mine can ever be able to determine, nor can it be known without a very diligent and nice Enquiry: And therefore I am still of the opinion, that this Controversie ought to be decided by the Authority of those who have grounded their Calculations on a careful and particular Examination. I told you, that the Computation which I follow, comprehends the Inhabitants of la Giudeca, for I look upon that Island as a part of the City of Venice; but I do not include the Isle of Murana. In the mean time you must give me leave to tell you, that you carry the point too far, when you pretend, that 'tis impossible to make a judgment of the number of the Inhabitants of a great City; for, if you consider what has been done by Sir William Petty, you will be convinc'd, that there are rational methods to make such a computation, without any conside­rable Error.

[Page 3]II. The two great Columns of Granite, which are near the Sea, at the end of the place call'd the Broglio, were brought fromThey might have been brought from Egypt to Con­stantinople, and from thence to Venice. It was one Nic. Baratier who undertook to fix them in the place where they still remain. He ask'd no other Recompence, but that he might have leave to set up a Priviledg'd Gaming-house between the two Columns; which was granted him. Egypt, or, as some say, from Constantinople. The Lyon of St. Mark holding an open Book, with the Inscription of Pax tibi, Marce, &c. is upon one of these Columns; and those are the Arms of Ve­nice. The Statue of S. Theodore is on the other Pillar. I think I told you, that 'tis the Custom of the Signiory to erect such Columns in all the Cities under its Dominion.

Your Friend has misinform'd you, who told you, that the three great Banners, which on Festi­val days are set up on the Brazen Pedestals over against S. Mark's Church, represent the State of Venice and the two Kingdoms of Cyprus and Candia. This, I confess, is the generally-receiv'd Opinion, but 'tis as false as common; for the Republic's Arms are to be seen, without the least difference, on all the three Banners; nor is there any Design to represent either Cyprus or Candia, which are not so much as nam'd. I cannot comprehend the meaning of those who have assur'd you, that the Republick has no Coat of Arms, and that the above-mention'd Lyon is too highly respected at Venice to be put in a Scutcheon. That same Lyon is to be seen in all those places where the Arms of the State ought to be: And it is no less ridiculous to say, that it serves instead of Arms, but really is no such thing, than it would be to pretend that the Venetians wear no Shirts, but that they make [Page 4] use of certain pieces of Linnen, that are cut and sew'd exactly like our Shirts, which only serve them instead of Shirts. It cannot be reasonably suppos'd, that the Respect they have for their Lyon should hinder them from using it for their Arms, since we commonly see Saints and Cruci­fixes apply'd to the same use. And you know the story of a Venetian Ambassador, who told an Emperor that ask'd him, in what part of the World the Republick had found those wing'd Lyons which are to be seen in its Coat of Arms, That he believ'd they found them in a certain Country where all theAlluding to the Arms of the Empire. Eagles have two Heads. Moreover, the Lyon of St. Mark derives its original from Ezekiel's VisionSee Vol. 1., which I have already mention'd in another place, and not, as you have been inform'd, from a pretended Me­tamorphosis of St. Mark, who was turn'd to a Lyon, to extinguish the incestuous Love of his Sister.

III. I remember I told you, that the Air of Venice is good; but I must confess that 'tis very bad in the Lagunas. And even I am credibly inform'd, that the Inhabitants of the little Isles are forc'd to leave their Habitations during the great Heats.

IV. 'Tis so universally known, that the Doge of Venice continues for Life, whereas the Doge of Genoua is chang'd every two years, that I thought it needless to inform you of a thing which I presum'd you knew as well as I.

The Revenue of the Doge of Venice amounts to nearNear Forty thousand Livres Tournois. Three thousand Pounds Sterl. according [Page 5] to my best information. The present Doge is not marry'd. The Dogesses are excluded from having any share in those shadows of Honour which are paid to their Husbands, which is an Effect of the Frugality of the Government; and indeed, the Republick has no need of two Mock-Soveraigns.

V. In my former Letters I said nothing, or very little, concerning the Libertinism and De­bauchery that reigns in the Monasteries, because I am not particularly acquainted with the Fashi­ons of those places. I can only tell you what is generally known and acknowledg'd, That the Nuns receive Persons in Masquerade at the Grate; that they put themselves into all man­ner of Disguises, that they go incognito to see Plays, and elsewhere; that they joyn in publick Feasts, and have Tables made for that purpose, of which one half is within and the other with­out the Grate; that they are concern'd in a thousand Intrigues, and are often the Principal Actors in them. I leave you to judge of their private Employments, for I am resolv'd not to pry into them. As for the bouncing Brothers of the Cowle, they are such horrible Debauchees, that 'tis impossible to fancy any Excess of which they are not guilty.

VI. I am not at all surpriz'd at your Friend's Exclamations against the Account that I gave you of the Venetian Government, and parti­cularly against the Soveraignty of the ancient Doges; but let him strut and swagger as he pleases, 'tis folly either to deny or strive to [Page 6] conceal a thing which is known to all the World.

VII. According to the Estimate which some judicious and well inform'd Persons have made of the Revenues of this Republick, it has been computed, that reckoning one year with ano­ther, the total sum of all their Revenues, com­prehending also the sale of Offices, and of Nobili­ty, Confiscation of Estates, and all other casual Profits, amounts to no more than Six millions of Crowns. I will not undertake to warrant the exactness of this Calculation, but when you propose a Question, you must content your self with such an Answer as I am able to re­turn.

VIII. There are some Jews as Venice who drive a great Trade, especially the Portuguese, who are very rich here, as well as at Amsterdam and elsewhere. That part of the City which is allotted to them is call'd il Ghetto, or the Jewry. They wear Hats cover'd with Scarlet, doubl'd and edg'd with Black; but the poorer sort use wax'd Linnen instead of Cloth.

IX. The number of those Noblemen who are capacitated by their Age to be Members of the Great Council, may, as I am inform'd, amount to about One thousand and Three hundred; but al­most one half of them reside in other places, being employ'd either in Civil and Military Offices, or on Embassies to foreign States; so that the Great Council is usually compos'd of Six or Seven hundred Persons at most: Yet even these [Page 7] are too many, and 'tis partly the numerousness of this Assembly that has given occasion to this Proverb concerning Venice, Troppo Teste, troppo Feste, troppo Tempeste; Too many Heads, too many Festivals, and too many Tempests. Nor are the two last parts of this Apophthegm less true than the first; for the number of Festivals in Venice exceeds those that are observ'd in France by above a third part; and I am assur'd that Storms happen very frequently here in the Summer.

X.The Great Coun­cil was esta­blish'd in the Year 1289. and all the Noblemen were register'd in that List. The Golden Book which you mention is a bare Catalogue of Names, in which all the Sons of the Noblemen are enroll'd as soon as they are born. All the Brothers have an equal Title to Nobility, and enjoy the same Privi­leges.

Before I leave this Head, I must answer the Objection that was propos'd to you against the account that I gave you of the Venetian Noble­men, in which I represented them as very haughty and almost inaccessible persons. Justice obliges us to give a reasonable Interpretation to every thing, and 'tis a ridiculous Victory that is obtain'd over imaginary Foes. 'Tis certain, that the Noblemen of Venice are extreamly con­ceited of their Nobility; nor will the Politicks of that Country permit them to be very affa­ble. 'Tis not an easie matter for a Stranger, whose Quality distinguishes him from the Vul­gar, to get access to them at their Houses, for they are only willing to be seen at the Broglio: Besides, tho' they cannot be accus'd of spa­ringness in their Salutations, yet they usually treat the Citizens with a great deal of coldness, [Page 8] and appear always very reserv'd in their com­pany: Neither are they wont to give and re­ceive Visits, even among themselves. Thus you see that the Character that I gave of them was not so injurious to them as some persons would have perswaded you; for all these are shrewd signs that they do not abound in Courtesie: Nevertheless it must be acknowledg'd, that in private, when their Conveniency permits them, or at least when their Interest obliges them, they can be as kind and civil as any Men whatsoever. Neither is it altogether impossible for a Stranger to obtain the Favour of a familiar Conversa­tion with them, especially when both the No­bleman and the Foreigner are persons of no great note. Moreover, I would not have you imagin that I design'd only to break a Jest when I told you that the great Sleeve does sometimes serve instead of a Basket, when a Nobleman goes to the Market; for I once saw a large Sallad, and at another time a delicate Tail of a Cod thus honourably lodg'd. I know not whether I did not forget to tell you, that there are Two or Three hundred poorThey are cal­led Barnabotes from the name of the place where they live, which is in a re­mote corner of the City, where the Houses are to be let at low rates. Barnabotes, who beg about the Streets, and instead of being at the charge of a Penny for the carriage of their small Provisions, would willingly turn Porters them­selves, and earn a Penny by carrying the Provi­sions of others. These poor Gentlemen serve for a Foil to the rich Noblemen.

It is true, that in the Summer the Noblemen take away the Furs from that which you call the Vest, and we in French la Robe; but the Edges, and that part which is turn'd up, re­main still furr'd.

[Page 9]XI. It was not Ignorance of your Inclination, or rather Love to Painting, that made me guil­ty of that Negligence with which you upbraid me, in giving you so imperfect an account of those curious Pieces that are to be seen at Ve­nice; however, in obedience to your desire, I shall endeavour in some measure to supply that Defect, by adding some new Observations, tho' I'm afraid my Memory will not furnish me with many.

There were formerly in the Hall of the Great Council some Pictures, done by Gentilis Bellini, and John his Brother, which excell'd the best Pieces of thatGentilis Belli­ni dy'd in the Year 1501, being 80 years old. And John dy'd 1512, aged 9 [...] Years. Age; but they were all lost in the Fire, which consum'd almost the whole Pa­lace in the year 1577. The sameThey represent the Wars of A­lexander III. with Frederick Barbarossa. Histories were copied five years after, by Frederick Zuc­chero, and set up again in the same order in which they still remain.

Pordenone's Pictures in Fresco, in the Cloyster of St. Stephen, are very much esteem'd; as are likewise his S. Sebastian, and S. Roch, at S. John de Rialto. Pordenone was an excellent Painter; his Designs are esteem'd very judicious, and his Colours admirably well laid. He emulated Titian.

The St. Peter Martyr of Titian is reputed to be one of the finest Pictures that ever was made, but it begins to be much defac'd. The best Judges are charm'd with this Piece, tho' it has lost almost all that lustre which is wont to ra­vish an unskilful Eye. They think they can ne­ver enough admire the Beauty and Richness of the Colours, the judicious Disposition of the Lights, the Roundness of the Figures, the Pas­sion [Page 10] and Life that is observ'd in the Face, and that strength of Expression which reigns thro' the whole piece. There are several other Pictures by the same hand in the Churches, St. Mark's Pa­lace, the Library, Convents, and Fraternities.

There are also some Pieces by Schiavoni, in the Library, which have been frequently taken for Titian's: Horace Vecelli his Son has almost equal'd him on some occasions; and the Picture in the Hall of the Great Council, which represents the Battel fought by the Romans against the Troops of Frederick, is the Work of Horace, tho' it be commonly ascrib'd to his Father.

The Picture of the Marriage at Cana, by Paul Veronese, in the Refectory of the Benedictine Monks in the Isle of S. George, is esteem'd to be the Master-piece of that Painter, who, you know, is famous for the same Excellencies that we admire in Titian: His Works are particular­ly remarkable for the beautiful disposition of the Figures, judicious Choice of Colours, a great Genius, vast Ideas, the greatest Easiness imagi­nable, and the most charming Variety. The Piece that I mention'd is Two and thirty Foot broad, and contains a Hundred and twenty five Figures.

In the Church of S. Sebastian, the Feast of Si­mon the Leper is one of the most celebrated Pie­ces of the same Artist. There are also three other Pictures, by the same Hand, in the Arch of S. Mark's Library, which, if my Memory do not deceive me, represent Geometry, Arith­metick, and Glory acquir'd by Learning.

The Paradise, by Tintoret, in the Hall of the Great Council, is a famous Piece. It was said of [Page 11] Tintoret, That he united the Designs of Michael Angelo with the Colours of Titian; which cer­tainly was a very noble Character. Besides, he had the most fruitful Invention, and the quickest Hand of all the Artists of that Age. A Painter who was with me in the Fraternity, or (as they call it at Venice) the School of S. Roch, made me observe with admiration that rare Picture which Tintoret finish'd almost in a moment, while Paul Veronese, Salviati, and Frederick Zucchero his Com­petitors in the same Work, were still busie on the rough Draught, which was to be presented to those who design'd to employ them. I have seen several other Pieces by the same Hand in the above-mention'd School, S. Maria dell' Orto, S. Mark's School, and other places.

There are some of Bassani's Works at S. Mary major: Schiavoni's Pictures in the Library are, I think, Emblems of Valour, Soveraignty, and Sanctity.

XII. I told you, That the Gondola's are co­ver'd with black; and I think I also inform'd you, That none here are allow'd to give Live­ries to their Servants, which may be reckon'd among the Doge's peculiar Privileges. 'Tis true, the Noblemen's Wives, during the first, and, I suppose, also the second year of their Marriage, are permitted to please their own Fancy in the choice of Colours for the Habits of their Gonde­liers: This little Favour is granted them at the same time that they are suffer'd to adorn them­selves with their Jewels; but as soon as the limited time is expir'd, this Mark of distinction ceases, and they are never suffer'd to resume [Page 12] their Jewels, unless on some high Festivals, and during the Carnaval. The rich Curtezans chuse rather to pay the Fine, than submit to so rigo­rous a Law.

No Man that is not in love with Contradicti­on will dare to affirm, That the Venetian La­dies enjoy greater Liberty than those of England or France; and 'tis impossible to alledge the least shadow of a Reason in confirmation of such a ridiculous Assertion. The Ladies of Venice are sometimes permitted, during the Carnaval, to walk abroad in disguise, to go to see a Play or an Opera, or perhaps to visit the Fairs or Ga­ming-houses: But, what does all this Liberty signifie? Their Vizards and Disguises are more prejudicial than advantageous to them, which serve only to hide what they would willingly show, and to confound them with the worthless and ignoble Crowd. Besides, this time of Di­version is very short liv'd: And after. all, how can they be capable of enjoying Pleasure, while they remember a thing that they ought never to forget, that 'tis impossible for them to stir a Foot without the attendance of those cursed Spies which are more insupportable to them than the heaviest Chains; not to mention their Husbands? What is all this pretended Liberty, but a conti­nuation of that Confinement which they are forc'd to undergo for ten or eleven months in the year? And is not their Condition more tole­rable, when they are suffer'd to walk without disturbance from one end of their Chamber to the other? I will not aggravate their Slavery by the opposition of that entire Liberty which is enjoy'd by our English and French Ladies, their [Page 13] Walks, Visits, Meetings, and all the other Di­vertisements which are allow'd to them without the least constraint or limitation of Time; for it would be altogether needless to insist on this Parallel.

XIII. The young Noblemen are suffer'd to gratifie their own Fancies in the splendour of their Equipages; nor do they usually spare any cost in Gold or Silver Stuffs, Laces, Plumes of Feathers, Purflings, and Embroideries of all co­lours. At fifteen years of age they put on the Gown, tho' they are not permitted to enter the Council before five and twenty. On the Continent they wear what Habits they please, and enjoy a full and uncontroul'd liberty; for the Jurisdiction of the Tribunal that regulates the Habits reaches not beyond the Lagunas.

XIV. When we visited the Treasury, we heard no mention of St. Mark's Thumb, neither did our Guides acquaint us, that this Saint was dismember'd to prevent his being chosen Priest. The truth is, we never ask'd them about it, and perhaps they forgot to speak of it. They have a Tradition, that his Ring was unfortu­nately lost, not long after he gave it, but they assur'd me that it was since recover'd. The Story will perhaps divert you, which is briefly thus:

In the year 1339. the Sea being furiously agitated, three Men accosted a Gondolier, who was endeavourieg to preserve his Boat from the extraordinary Violence of the Waves; they constrain'd him to carry them two miles from [Page 14] thence, near to a place call'd The Lido: when they arriv'd there, they found a Shipful of Devils, who were raising a Tempest by their Hellish sorceries; but as soon as these three Men had chid the Fiends the Storm ceas'd. The first of the three made the Gondolier car­ry him to the Church of S. Nicholas, the second to that of S. George, and the third to that of S. Mark. This last, instead of paying the Boat-man, gave him a Ring, with orders to carry it to the Senate, who, he assur'd him, would not fail to satisfie him for his pains. And at the same time he inform'd the Gondolier, that he that went ashore at St. Nicholas's was Mr. St. Nicholas himself, that the second was St. George, and that he himself was St. Mark, in proper Person. The Gondolier, full of astonishment at so many Wonders, related the whole story to the Senate, who not only believ'd him, but gave him a bountiful Reward.

XV. Protestants are suffer'd to be interr'd in the Churches, if the Parents of the deceased desire that Privilege: The reason is, because it is not known that there are any Protestants at Venice; for all those that are neither Jews, Greeks, nor Armenians are reputed to be Roman-Catholicks.

XVI. Your Admirer of the Venetian Palaces mistakes the state of the Question. I do not deny that there are stately Buildings in that City, which deserve to be call'd Palaces; and you may remember that I mention'd some of 'em; but every ti [...] [...] what I told you in ge­neral [Page 15] concerning the Palaces of Italy is most cer­tainly true; and all his Objections against it amount to no more than a bare wrangling about Words: besides, you ought not to depend on his Opinion, since you tell me, that he has no skill in Architecture. Neither ought you to re­ly on the account he gives you of the Machins of the Venetian Opera's, since he never saw any others. And I can assure you, that he errs pro­digiously, when he compares the Neatness of Venice to that of Holland.

XVII. You do well not to take that part of the account which I gave you of this City, ac­cording to the utmost rigour of the literal sence of the Words, in which I assur'd you that there is a passage by Water to all the Houses in Ve­nice: There may perhaps be five or six in a thousand that cannot be approach'd but by Land; tho' I would not be oblig'd to make good that number: But your young Traveller speaks at random, when he affirms so positively, that there is not a Canal within five hundred paces of the House where he lodg'd; and, that there are twenty such places in the City: for, by his leave, this is a monstrous Absurdity. How many spaces, at this rate, would there be in Venice, of a mile in diameter? You may easi­ly judge, by the Platform of that City which I send to you, of the truth of my Assertion, in which I still persist, and which is grounded on undoubted Evidence.

[Page 16] ROME call'd The Holy.The City of Rome has been often describ'd by Persons who had all the Opportunities and Qualifications that were necessary to fit them for so vast an Undertaking. I will not pretend to give you a particular account of all that I observ'd in it, but only endeavour to represent to you a general Idea of that famous City, and afterwards proceed to communicate to you some particular Observations: I will entertain you with nothing but what is either new or little known, unless when I am oblig'd to resolve your Doubts, or answer your Questions. We see every day an infinite number of things which have no coherence, nor any other rela­tion than that of the Neighbourhood of the Places where we find them; so that you must not expect any methodical connexion or con­formity of Matter in those Observations which I promis'd to impart to you.

You are not ignorant that Rome was known by the name of Septicollis, or the City on Seven Hills: Before the Reign of Servius Tullius it had no more; but since that time it has been much enlarg'd, and at present containsMonte Capi­tolino, Palatino, Aventino, Celio, Esquilino, Vimi­nale, Quirinale or Monte Ca­vallo, Janiculo Pincio, Vatica­no, Citorio, and Giordano. Twelve: You must not imagine that these Hills are so many considerable Mountains, they are only small Hillocks, the ascent to which is scarce sensible.

Vopiseus, who liv'd under the Reign of Dio­clesian, asserts positively, That the Walls with which Rome was enclos'd by Aurelian were fifty miles in compass. But this is either not well express'd, or misunderstood, or 'tis absolutely false; for it has been clearly demonstrated, that the present Walls are in a great measure the [Page 17] same which Aurelian caus'd to be erected, and yet they are not above thirteen little miles about, which is the largest compass that ever Rome had. 'Tis true indeed, the Suburbs extended very far on all sides, and made the City in a manner infinite.

There is not above a third part of that ex­tent which is comprehended within the Walls, inhabited at present; for the other two thirds on the East and South side are nothing but Gar­dens and Ruins: so that if, during the splendor of ancient Rome, Propertius had reason to say,

Hoc quodcunq, vides, Hospes, quam maxima Roma est
Ante Phrygem Aeneam, Collis & Herba fuit.
At (que) ubi navali stant Sacra Palatia Phoebo;
Evand [...]i profugae procubuere Boves.

We may now use the words of another Poet concerning the present condition of that City,

Haec, dum viva, sibi septem circumdedit Arces;
Mortua nunc, septem contegitur Tumulis.

The Houses are for the most part built of Brick, plaister'd and whited over on the outside. The Roofs are ridg'd, but the Angle at the top is very obtuse, and many of them are also fa­shion'd, as we say in France, à la Mansarde. Nei­ther the Houses nor Streets are equally beauti­ful, and the Pavements are neither large nor neat. I shall have occasion hereafter to speak of some of the most remarkable Buildings.

[Page 18]Which way soever you come to Rome, you still perceive St. Peter's Dome, which appears above all the Spires and the tops of the highest Structures in the City.

The Tiber makes a littleInsula Tiberina olim excrevisse dicitur ex sege­tibus Tarquinii superbi, in al­v [...]um fluvii con­jectis. J.J. Boiss. See Tit. Livius. Island here, and the course of that River is from North to South. That part of the City which stands on its right Bank, is not above a fifth or sixth part of the other; it is call'd Trastevera.

The first and general Prospect of Rome does not present any surprizing Beauties to the Eye of the Beholder, especially if he has already seen several other famous Cities; but the lon­ger he stays in itGrata Roma tam sapientibus quam insipien­tibus: sine amore esse nullo modo potest. Bern. Sacca., he will still make new dis­coveries of things, that deserve to be consider'd with attention. 'Tis impossible to walk fifty paces in or about that City without observing some Remainders of its ancient Grandeur. You know that haughty Mistriss of the Universe was wont to enrich her self with the best Spoils of her conquer'd Provinces. Porphyries, Granites, and the finest Oriental Marble, were more com­mon there than Bricks, or the Stones that were dug out of the neighbouring Quarries.Statuas pri­mum Thusci in­venisse referun­tur, quas am­plexa posteritas paene parem po­pulum Urbi de­dit, quam Na­tura procreavit. Cassiodor. The Statues of Rome have been call'd a Great Nation; and we may add not unfitly, that the Colosses were the Gyants. This proud City was adorn'd with Temples, Palaces, Theatres, Representati­ons of Sea fights, Triumphal Arches, Baths, Cirques, Columns, Fountains, Aqueducts, Obe­lisks, Mausoleums, and other magnificent Stru­ctures; but now all these things may be truly said to be buried in their own Ruins, tho' these Ruins, as dismal as they are, seem still to re­tain a great deal of their ancient splendor.

[Page 19]The Country about Rome, for ten or twelve miles, ill peopl'd, extreamly unhealthful, and even altogether barren in some places: It is ge­nerally flat, but very uneven.

I could not make an exact estimate of the number of the Inhabitants of this famous City;Lampridius tells us, that Helio­gabalus made a collection of the Cobwebs in Rome, which weigh'd Ten thousand pound. From which pas­sage some would draw Inferences to confirm the Computations of the pro­digious num­ber of the Inha­bitants of that City; but this is a very lame way of reason­ing. 'Tis generally believ'd, that it contains Two hundred thousand Souls, but in such cases there are always various Opinions; it is even very difficult to reconcile the passages of ancient Au­thors concerning the numbering of the People of Rome under the Reign of Augustus; some tell us of Three millions One thousand and Thirty seven, and others have rais'd the number to Four or Five millions; but these Calculations do not at all agree with the account of Suetonius, who com­putes only One million and Six hundred thousand, or a few more, under Tiberius, who was the im­mediate Successor of Augustus; and, how can it be suppos'd with the least shadow of Reason, that such a prodigious alteration could happen within the narrow space of a few years? Some Criticks will perhaps endeavour to elude the force of so pressing an Argument, by botching the Text of Suetonius, or, at least, by starting new Difficulties concerning it; but all their stu­died subtilties will never amount to a certain de­cision of the Controversie. This brings to my mind a passage inWernerus Roolwinck. Fasciculus temporum, where the Author, speaking of the Reign of Augustus, has these words; Roma in flore, & numerati sunt ejus cives & descripti nonagesies Tricentena millia, & Octoginta millia. The number of the Citi­zens of Rome amounted to Seven and twenty mil­lions and Eighty Thousand: A jolly company in­deed! [Page 20] but perhaps he meant all those who had a right to the Privileges of Roman Citizens, throughout the whole extent of the Empire.

Two days after our return from Naples, we had the fortune to see a pleasant Ceremony, which I cannot forbear relating to you: You must know that a Club of sixty Gentlemen did voluntarily agree to raise a sufficient Fund to make either Wives or Nuns of Three hundred and fifty Maidens every year. Now the Cere­mony is perform'd thus: On the Festival of the Annunciation, the Pope and the sacred College meet at the Minerva, where the Pope says a high Mass, or at least some Cardinal is appointed to officiate in his absence, and all the Girls con­fess, and receive the Sacrament, being cloath'd in white Serge, and muffl'd up, like Ghosts, in a great piece of Cloth which covers their Head, leaving only a small passage for their sight, and oftentimes only a little peep-hole for one Eye; then they enter by two and two into the Quire where all the Cardinals are assembl'd, and pro­strate themselves at the Feet of the Pope, or of the Cardinal who officiates for him, at whose side stands a certain Officer appointed for that purpose, with a Bason full of little white Bags in his Hand, each of which contains either a Bill of Fifty Crowns for those Maidens who chuse Marriage,Pope Clement IV. gave a Hun­dred Crowns in Marriage with his eldest Daugh­ter, and only Ten Crowns to her that went into a Nunnery. Plat. or a Bill of a Hundred Crowns for such of them as are willing to enter into a Nunnery. Each Maiden having humbly de­clar'd her Choice, receives her Bag hanging by a little String, and having kiss'd it, makes a low Courtesie, and files off, to make room for the rest. The future Nuns are distinguish'd [Page 21] by a Garland of Flowers, which crowns their Virginity, and they are rank'd in the most ho­nourable place at the Procession. Of all the Three hundred and fifty, there were but Two and thirty who chose St. Paul's better part, and the rest contented themselves with doing well.

Give me leave to trip from the Minerva to the Borghese Palace,You must see at the Minerva that famous Statue of Christ embracing the Cross, by Michael Angelo. without obliging me to give you any other reason why I do so, than that I must follow my Journal thither. This Palace is very beautiful, and contains many Rarities. The Portico's are supported by fourscore and sixteen Antique Pillars of Egyptian Granite. A­mong the Pictures in the lower Apart­ments, there are seventeen hundred Ori­ginals by the most celebrated Masters: The Venus blindfolding Cupid, while the Graces bring him his Arms, is Titian's, and is esteem'd the best. Paul the Fifth, who was of this Family, is painted in such fine Mosaic Work, that his Picture is said to contain above a million of Pieces: My Calculation assures me, that this cannot be true, but, without Criticising upon a Trifle, it must be acknowledg'd that 'tis an excellent Picture. Here they shew'd us a Crucifix of the same bigness with that of the Carthusians at Naples, and assur'd us, that this is that famous Original of Michael Angelo, which I mention'd before. To reconcile this Difference, I think I may affirm, without any scruple, that the whole story is a meer Fable.

It was the common People that gave the name of Rotonda to the Pantheon, because of the roundness of its Figure. When Boniface the Fourth dedi­cated this ancient Temple to the Virgin and all [Page 22] the Martyrs, he nam'd it S. Maria ad Martyres. Afterwards some other Pope would have all the Saints in general comprehended with the Mar­tyrs. I must ingenuously acknowledge, that I cannot give you the satisfaction you desire concerning the true reason why this Temple was of old call'd the Pantheon. Some say, that it had that name from the resemblance between its Figure and that of the Heavens, Quod forma ejus convexa fastigiatam Coeli similitudinem ostenderet. Others think that it was consecrated by Agrippa to Jupiter and all the Gods; or, perhaps to Ju­piter only, and to Cybele the Mother of the Gods: but after all, my opinion is, that this Contro­versie is not well decided.

'Tis true, there are Niches all round the inside of the Temple, and I think we may rea­sonably conjecture, that these Niches were for­merly full of Idols, but this is the only Infe­rence that we can draw from them. Varro tells us of Thirty thousand Deities that were worship'd at Rome; and the Philosopher Bruxil­lus, in his dying Speech to the Senate, assur'd them, that he had left Two hundred and Eighty thousand; so that there must have been a great number of Niches indeed to ac­commodate all those Deities. Your Niches then will not furnish you with one Argument to prove that the Pantheon was consecrated to all that multitude of Gods that were ador'd at Rome. Tho' this Temple hath lost its fairest Ornaments, it is still one of the most beautiful and entire antique Edifices in Italy. There is to be seen at Castle St. Angelo, of which I shall quickly give you some account, a Cannon which [Page 23] is a seventy pounder, that was made, as well as the four Columns of the great Altar, only of the brazen Nails with which the Roof of the Portico was fasten'd.The two Lyons of Porphyry which are under the Portico of the Pantheon, did heretofore serve to adorn the Front of the Temple of Isis. F. Nardin. The Columns of this Portico are of Granite, of the Corinthian Order, and all of one piece. I measur'd them with as much exactness as you could desire: they are not all equally big, but I found that they were fifteen foot in compass, within a few inches more or less: I give you the measure of them in English feet, and you may judge of the rest by the proportion that is between each part. That piece of Granite, in which the opening of the great Gate is cut, is also of a very con­siderable bigness; for it is forty foot high, and very near twenty broad.

The illustrious Raphael lies interr'd in this Church: Bembus made this beautiful Distick to serve for his Epitaph;

Ille hic est Raphael timuit quo sospite vinci
Rerum magna parens, & moriente mori.

La Guillitiere says, that the Pantheon at Athens seem'd to him to be a far more magnificent Structure than that of Rome. But Spon has censur'd this Author for fancying the Temple of Minerva to be a Pantheon. Meursius had faln into the same Error, and their common Mistake is grounded upon the faulty description which Theodosius Zygomala, whose words they only transcribe, gives of that famous Temple, in his Letter to Martin Crusius, or perhaps on the name of Parthenion, which Pausanias gives it. I [Page 24] will not exercise your patience with tedious de­scriptions of Churches, but shall content my self to communicate to you some particular Ob­servations concerning them, as occasion shall offer. That of St. Peter is generally esteem'd to be the largest and most magnificent Temple in the World: He that would make a right judgment of it, must go thither often; he must even walk on the top of the Arches, and into the very Ball which is over the Dome, and must also view the Church which is under Ground. At your first entrance you see no surprizing Objects; the harmony and proporti­ons of Architecture are so judiciously observ'd, and every thing is plac'd so exactly where it ought to be, that this unparallel'd Order does rather compose the Mind than disturb its tran­quillity; but the longer you consider this vast Structure, the more indispensably you will find your self oblig'd to admire it. Since you are willing to rely on my Fidelity and Diligence, rather than on those who have already given you some dimensions of this Edifice, I will send you the principal of them, as I measur'd 'em my self more than once, with the assistance of skil­ful and experienc'd persons. You will very much oblige me, by giving me an Account of what resemblance or difference you shall find between these Dimensions and those of your St. Paul's.

St Peter's Church

Vol. 2d. Pag. 24

[Page 25]

 Engl. feet.inch
1. The length of the Church, mea­sur'd on the outside, comprehend­ing the wideness of the Portico, and the thickness of the Walls,722 
2. The length of the Church, mea­sur'd within, without comprehending either the Portico, or the thickness of the Walls,594 
3. The length of the Cross of the Church, on the outside,490 
4. The length of the Cross within,438 
5. The breadth of the Body of the Church,868
6. The perpendicular heighth of the Body of the Church,144 
7. The bigness or outward circum­ference of the Dome,620 
8. The diameter of the Dome within143 
9. The breadth of the Front of the Church,400 
10. The entire heighth of the Church, from the Floor to the top of the Cross which is over the Ball,432 
11. The diameter of the Ball,84
12. The heighth of the Statues which are on the Cornish of the Second Order of the Front,18 

Bramanti, under Julius II, and Michael Angelo, under Paul III, were the two principal Archi­tects of this Building: And indeed, there is no part of it which is not noble and majestical.

[Page 26]The Chair of St. Peter, supported by the four Doctors of the Church, whose Statues are of Brass gilt; the Tombs of Ʋrban VIII, Paul III, Alexander VII, and the Countess Maud, who, you know, was Gregory the VIIth's Poene comes individua. Lamb. Abbot of Hirtzaw. By the Tomb of Paul III. there are two Marble Statues, which they were forc'd to cover with a Drapery of Brass, to remove the occasion of Scandal that was given by two Spaniards, who were enamour'd of these Figures. dear Friend, are Works of a finish'd beauty and magnificence.

There is nothing to be seen in this admira­ble Structure but gilt Work, rare Pictures, em­boss'd Work, Statues of Brass and Marble, and all these things are dispos'd in their proper places by so wise and happy a Contrivance, that the abundance of them does not cause the least Confusion. The inside of the Cupola is of Mo­saic Work, the Arch of the Nave is of a cer­tain fine Clay, with Compartments of rais'd work gilded; and all the Pilasters will be short­ly overcast with the same matter, as well as the remaining part of the inside of the Church.

The great Altar is directly under the Dome, in the middle of the Cross; it is a kind of a Pavilion, supported by four wreath'd Pillars of Brass, that are adorn'd with Foliages, and strew'd with Bees, which were the Arms of P. Ʋrban VIII. Over every Column there is an Angel of Brass gilt, seventeen foot high; and there are Figures of Children playing and walking on the Cor­nish. This Piece is extreamly valued; and the heighth of the whole amounts to ninety feet. Under this Altar there is a pair of Stairs, [Page 27] which leads to the Chapel where St. Peter's Body is pretended to be kept, and to the other holy places in the Vaults of this Church.

At the entry of these Grottoes I observ'd a Bull engrav'd in Marble,Huc mulieribus ingredi non li­cet, nisi unico die Lunae post Pentecosten: quo vicissim viri ingredi prohi­bentur. Qui se­cus faxint, Ana­thema sunto. by which Women are for­bidden to enter into that place, save only on Whitsun-Monday, on which day it is declar'd un­lawful for any Man to come there; and who­soever shall act contrary to either of these Pro­hibitions, are anathematiz'd. These places are dark, and the Sexton told us, That this Order was occasion'd by a certain amorous Adventure. There is an Indulgence of seven years for every Step of the Stairs that lead to St. Peter's Chapel, granted to such as descend them with Devo­tion.

The double Range of Pillars which encloses the great Place that is before the Church,286 Pillars. and leads to the same Church, by a double Portico on each side, is an unusual sort of Ornament, which surprizes the Beholder. There are in the Place two magnificent Fountains, which cast forth very large Streams. The Obelisk which stands in the middle is of one entire piece of Granate, it isSaxum mirae magnitudinis. Petrar. lib. Ep. 2. seventy eight foot high, without reckoning either the Pedestal or the Cross, which Sixtus V. caus'd to be plac'd on the top of the Obelisk, when he set up that ancient Monument. 'Tis commonly, but falsly, reported,It was set up in the year 1586. It weighs with­out reckoning the Base 956148 pounds. See J. J. Boissard. That the brazen Globe which was there formerly con­tain'd the Ashes of Augustus. Dominicus Fontana the Architect, that was employ'd by Sixtus V, having examin'd that Ball, found that it could not have serv'd for that use; and it was nothing else but a simple Ornament. 'Tis true, the Obe­lisk [Page 28] was consecrated to Augustus and Tiberius; as it appears plainly by this Inscription, which is still very conspicuous, and may be read di­stinctly,

Divo Caesari, Divi Julii F. Augusto:
Tiberio Caesari, D. Aug. F. Augusto, Sacrum.

The Palace of theIt was belie­ved that the God Vaticanus gave his Oracles or Vaticinia in this place. Vatican is adjacent to St. Peter's Church: This is certainly a conve­niency to the Pope; but it must be acknow­ledg'd, that the too near Neighbourhood of that Palace is by no means advantageous to the Church, but rather occasions a very unpleasnat confusion; for, the prospect of that Church would be infinitely more glorious and delight­ful, if a great part of it were not hid by other Edifices, and if it were on all sides expos'd to the unobstructed view of the Beholder. The Vatican is not a regular Building, but rather a heap of beautiful Pieces ill tack'd together: It is said to contain Twelve thousand and Five hun­dred Chambers, Halls, and Closets; and this computation may be easily examin'd on the Mo­del which is shew'd of it in Wood. The Bel­vedere is a part of the Vatican; you know, with­out doubt, that it derives its name from the lovely prospect which is discover'd from this place.

The excellent Pieces of Raphael, Michael An­gelo, Julius Romanus, Pinturicchio, Polidorus, John de Ʋdina, Daniel Volterra, and several other fa­mous Masters, found us more Employment than all the other Beauties of the Palace: The History of Attila, by the incomparable Raphael, [Page 29] is always surrounded with Admirers.Raphael was born on Good-Friday, 1483. and dy'd on ano­ther Good-Fri­day 37 years af­ter. I have several times observ'd with pleasure the earnest­ness and attention with which the most compe­tent Judges are wont to examine all its Beauties. Look, says one, what a graceful mixture of Strength and Sweetness there is in that Figure: Would you not swear that this other were alive? Does it not seem to breath? Is it possi­ble to express a more lively Passion, or to ima­gine a more charming posture? Admire, crys another, that prodigious variety of Faces, and that admirable disposition of Light and Shades. Did ever Michael Angelo design better, or Titian lay his Colours more happily? Never was there any Piece more noble and exquisitely beau­tiful throughout. But 'tis time to leave them to their Raptures; neither would a whole day suffice to relate all that I have heard on this oc­casion. The Merit of Raphael, and his glorious Reputation, sets the Wits on work every day to invent new Expressions to praise his Works. But, after all, even the greatest Examples of Perfection are notSee pag. faultless, and Raphael him­self is guilty of a considerable Error in the same Picture, where Pope Leo the First, and two Cardinals that attend him, are represented in the samePlatina writes, That Pope Con­stantine, and the other Popes of that Age, (250 years after Leo I) wore only a plain Chamlet Garment. Concerning the Cardinals, see Vol. 2. It has been observ'd, that Albert Durer seldom made a Face without Whiskers. At Soest in the County of Mark, in Westphalia, there is a Picture of our Saviour's last Supper, on a Glass Window in a Church, in which a Gammon of Bacon is put for the Paschal Lamb. Since Images are the Books of the Ignorant, it is to be wish'd that they were made agreeable to the Truth. Habits that are now usually worn by persons of their Rank; which is somewhat too bold a violation of the Truth of History. This puts me in mind of Titian, who forgot himself so [Page 26] [...] [Page 27] [...] [Page 28] [...] [Page 29] [...] [Page 30] far as to hang Rosaries at the Girdles of those two Disciples, whom Christ met in their way to Emaus; and of another famous Painter, I mean Rosso, who introduces Monks in their Frocks, as Guests at the Virgin's Wedding. But leaving the Vatican, was there ever any Painter guilty of a more ridiculous design and fantastical disposition of the Parts in a Picture, than Mi­chael, in that of the Last Judgment? There you may see Angels without Wings, and the old Ferry-man Charon transporting a Boatful of Souls; there you may behold the Resurrection of Persons of all Ages, with brawny Muscles like so many Hercules's, shoals of naked Persons huddl'd confusedly together, and Bodies expos'd in unseemly postures. Michael Angelo design'd boldly, and painted whatsoever his heated Fancy suggested to him.

Since I am upon this subject, I cannot for­bear taking notice of the Murder of Admiral The Parlia­ment of Paris had promis'd Fifty thousand Crowns of Gold to any person that should ex­hibit him alive or dead. The word in the French is repre­senter. Co­ligny, the History of which is describ'd in three large Pictures, which are to be seen in the Hall where the Pope gives Audience to Ambassadors. In the first Coligny is represented as he was carried to his House, after he was wounded by the Ruf­fian Morevel, and at the bottom of the Picture is this Motto, Gasper Colignius Amirallius accepto vulnere domum refertur. Greg. XIII, Pontif. Max. 1572; that is, Gasper Coligny the Admiral is carried home wounded: In the Pontificate of Greg. XIII, 1572. The second exhibits him murder'd in his own House, together with his Son-in-law Teligny, and others, with these words, Caedes Colignii & Sociorum ejus; i. e. The Slaughter of Coligny and his Companions. And in the third, [Page 31] the News of the Execution is brought to the King, who seems pleas'd with it, as it appears by the Inscription, Rex Colignii necem probat; The King approves of the Slaughter of Coligny.

The Pope did not content himself with setting up the History of this Massacre as a Trophy in his Palace; but the better to eternise the memory of so remarkable an Action, he caus'd Medals to be coyn'd, with this Inscription about his Image, Gregorius XIII, Pont. Max. An. 1. and on the reverse a destroying Angel, holding in one Hand a Cross, and in the other a Sword, with which he seems to thrust, with these words, Ʋgonottorum Strages, 1572; i. e. The Slaughter of the Hugonots, 1572. These Medals are be­come very scarce, yet I obtain'd some of them by the assistance of my Friends.

I shall say nothing of the Gardens of Belve­dere, nor of the Statues with which they are adorn'd: You have heard that theSee the History of Laocoon, in the second Book of the Aeneids. The Laocoon is of one piece of Marble; 'tis the Work of Agesander, Pylodorus, and Athenodorus, three Grecian Sculptors. Laocoon is infinitely valu'd; and the'Tis a Body without Head, Arms, or Legs: the Sculptor's Name is engraven on the Pedestal, [...], Apollonius the Son of Nestor, an Athenian. Trunk, the Antinous, the Apollo, and the Cleopatra are also particularly admir'd.

There are very different Opini­ons about the number of Books contain'd in this Library. And I am so little able to decide the [...] Question, that I chuse rather to say nothing of it.The Vatican Library has been encreas'd not only by the addition of that of Heydelberg, but also of the Duke of Ʋrbin's. The Pictures with which it is replenish'd represent the Sciences, Councils, most celebrated Libraries, Inven­ters of Letters, and some passages in the Life of Sixtus the Fifth. The old Manu­script [Page 32] The Virgil and Terence of the Vatican were written a thou­sand years ago; Spon. They shew'd us here a Volume of Letters of Henry VIII. to Ann of Bolen, which is in quarto, about the thickness of a Finger. Virgil is in quarto, of greater breadth than length, in capital Letters, without distin­ction of Words, or the use of Points. The Character is somewhat Gothic, which does not at all agree with the first▪ Ages of Antiquity, in which some pretend it was written, no more than the Miniature which is the product of an ignorant Age.

I observ'd among the Manuscripts of the last Ages some Letters written by, and to Cardinals; in which they stile one-another Master Peter, or Master Julius, without further Ceremony.

I saw the German Bible which you mention; they pretend that it was translated by Luther, and written by his own Hand; but the credit of that Story is destroy'd by the extravagant Prayer at the end of it, which is apparently of the same hand with the rest. Thus it is in the Original:

O Gott, durch deine gute,
Bescher uns kleider und hute,
Auch mentel und rocke,
Felle kalber und bocke,
Ochsen, Schafe, und rinder,
Viele weiber, wenig kinder.
Schlechte speis und trank
Machem einen das jahr lang.

That is, O God, be graciously pleas'd to grant us Clothes and Hats, Cloaks and Gowns, fat Calves and Goats, Oxen, Sheep, and Bulls, many Wives, and few Children▪ Bad Meat and all D [...]k make Life [Page 33] uneasie. It must be acknowledg'd, that they who would perswade us that Luther was the Au­thor of this Prayer, must have a very earnest desire to make him pass for a Debauchee.

From the Library we went to the Arsenal, where, if you will believe them, there is a suffi­cient number of Arms for Twenty thousand Horse and Forty thousand Foot. But I can assure you, that there are not half so many; and besides, the Arms that they have are in a bad condition. And 'tis no wonder, for these are not the principal Thunders of the Vatican.

If on one side the Pope may descend from this Palace to S. Peter's Church, on the other he may escape unseen to the Castle of St. Angelo. Alexander the Sixth built a Gallery of Commu­nication for this very purpose: and indeed, such a wicked man as that Pope was, had reason to provide for his security. Ʋrban VIII. fortified the Castle with four Bastions, and gave 'em the Names of the four Evangelists. There is a Picture in the Chapel, which represents Gregory the First with his triple Crown prostrating him­self before an Angel that appears to him on the top of Adrian's Mausoleum, and puts up his Sword into its Sheath. This was done, says the Story, to advertise the Pope of the approaching Deli­verance of Rome from a raging Plague that had wasted the City for a long time: and from hence that Mausoleum had the name of the Castle of St. Angelo.

In the little Arsenal that belongs to this Castle we saw an Armory full of prohibited Arms, and were inform'd,The Pope's triple Crown is kept in this Castle. that almost all those in whose possession they were seiz'd had been [Page 34] put to death. Among the rest, they show'd us Ranuccio Farnese's Pistols; I believe the Story of 'em will not be unwelcome to you, of which you may take the following brief Account, as I have heard it related by several persons here.

Sixtus the Fifth having by repeated Orders expresly prohibited the carrying of secret Arms, was inform'd; that the young Prince Ranuccio, Son and Heir of Alexander Farnese Duke of Par­ma and Governor of the Netherlands, went usually arm'd with Pocket-pistols.Asperius nihil est humili qui surgit in altum. The Pope, who was naturally the most rigid and severe man in the World, joyfully embrac'd all occasions to display the greatness of his Power, without re­garding who might be sufferers by it. Besides, the Dutchy of Parma being a Fief of his De­means, he look'd on that Prince as his Vassal: He commanded Ranuccio to be arrested, and to aggravate his Guilt, order'd his Pistols to be taken from him in one of the Chambers of the Pope's Palace, as that Prince was going to desire an Audience of his Holiness. Ranuccio was im­mediately carried to the Castle of S. Angelo, and the Cardinal Farnese his Uncle left no means unessay'd to procure his Liberty, but all in vain. Whether the Pope had resolv'd on the Death of that poor Prince, or only intended to terrifie him, is a Question which I cannot determine. How­ever, about Ten o'th' clock at night, at the same time that the Cardinal was return'd to re­new his sollicitations, Sixtus sent an express Command to the Governor of the Castle to cause Ranuccio to be beheaded; and not doubt­ing but that his Orders had been instantly exe­cuted, he rid himself of the Cardinal, by grant­ing [Page 35] him a new Order to the Governor, by which he commanded him to set Ranuccio (whom he concluded to be already dead) at liberty at Ele­ven o'th' clock. The Cardinal, who was ig­norant of the first Order, ran to the Castle with­out losing a moment, and was extreamly sur­priz'd to find his Nephew all in Tears, in the Arms of a Confessor, and to hear that his Death had been only delay'd, because he had begg'd a little time to prepare himself for it. The Governor seeing this new Order, and conclu­ding that the Pope had at last yielded to the im­portunate sollicitations of the Cardinal, deliver'd up his Prisoner, who, by his Uncle's Command, immediately took post, and so escap'd from the very Jaws of Death.

The Cavalier Borri, a Milanese Gentleman, who is a great Chymist, and expert Physician, is at present a Prisoner in the Castle of St. An­gelo; he is accus'd of some Heretical Opinions, but at the same time 'tis believ'd, that he is not perfectly Master of his Reason, which is the cause that he is not kept under a very close confinement, and even is sometimes permitted to visit persons of Quality in the City, who desire his assistance for the cure of their Distempers. We were inform'd, that he pretends to revive the Errors of the Collyridians in the Fourth Age, who paid a sort of Adoration to the Virgin; and 'tis even reported, that he makes her a fourth person in the Godhead.

This man puts me in mind of Dr. Molinos, of whom you desire me to send you some certain News, which 'tis impossible for me to do. 'Tis true, I have seen those Propositions that are [Page 36] either heretical, or pretended to be so, of which he is said to be the Author; nor would it be very difficult to obtain a Copy of his Accusa­tion; but all this signifies nothing. I must hear Molinos himself, before I can judge of the merit of his cause: for, 'tis certain, that all the ac­counts that we have of him are guilty either of Aggravation or Alleviation. Of these Proposi­tions, which I mention'd, some are dangerous, several are ambiguous, many indifferent, and others very reasonable and orthodox. How­ever, I can assure you, that his Reputation is generally very bad in this place: He is esteem'd a Villain, a lewd Fellow, and a Seducer, who has so cunningly insinuated himself into Nunne­ries by his Cant of Insensibility, Extasie, &c. that a great number of these poor Creatures have been deluded by him. They relate a thousand Stories to confirm the Opinion they have of him, but I must tell you once more that they are of doubtful Credit. We may easily perceive that 'tis their Interest to blacken the Character of that unhappy Man, and to load him with Reproa­ches, since they have condemn'd him in so igno­minious a manner to pass the rest of his days in a Cell. Besides, I observ'd, that even his bitte­rest Enemies are wont to make a distinction be­tween him and his Followers. Molinos, they say, is void of all Religion and Virtue; he is a man of no Principles, and believes nothing at all, but there are some well-meaning Molinists, who are unacquainted with their Master's Heart, and are sincere Professors of that Quietism, and those other Opinions, which you have heard so often mention'd▪

I am, Sir, Your &c.

LETTER XXIV.

SIR,

THAT I may observe some Order in that variety of Matter which is the Subject of my Letters, I follow sometimes my own Journal, and sometimes yours. Some days ago M. B. made his Court to the Heroin, whom you mention, and was receiv'd with a great deal of Civility and Respect. The Company began immediately to talk of England, of its Court, the Excellency of the Country, the various Cu­stoms of the Inhabitants, and particularly the Liberty that is allow'd to the Women; the op­position of their easie and pleasant manner of living in that Country to the perpetual con­finement of the poor Italian Ladies, made the condition of these last seem doubly miserable. It was however alledg'd, That this Custom which appears to be so injurious to the beauti­ful Sex, is a necessary piece of Caution in Italy, where three quarters of the Men living under the insupportable restraint of a forc'd Celibacy, would make a dreadful havock of their Neighbor's Property, if some means were not us'd to prevent such Disorders. Why do we not then take St. Paul's Advice, reply'd one of the company, who exhorts every Man to have his own Wife, and every Woman her [Page 38] own Husband? But lest we should have been insensibly engag'd in Controversie, by continuing to talk on that Subject, the Discourse was dex­terously charg'd: And the Queen being in­form'd, that there was a French Gentleman in the company, ask'd News concerning the late Mission of Dragoons; and after she had atten­tively heard his AnswerYou may see the Letter which that Princess wrote on this Subject to the Chevalier de Terlon. It is inserted in the Nouvelles de la Republique des Lettres, May 1686., ‘I knew all that you have told me, said she, and have learn'd much more from the Mouths of Eye-witnesses; and even Jesuites themselves have given me an ac­count ofNot many months ago some German Jesuits told me, said the Queen, that they had seen Dragoons, Priapos suos immanes in os faeminarum intromittentes, ibique urinam fundentes. I chid 'em severely, added she, for suffering such horrible Insolency, but they only laugh'd at it. infamous Villanies; They have added Scoffing and Insolency to Treachery and Barbarity. After these words, and some particular Stories relating to the same Subject, we discours'd of the Pope, of his Health, and of his famous Dif­ference with the Court of France about the Immu­nities, and at length the Queen withdrew.

You are not ignorant of the Learning and Merit of this Princess, but since you desire me to give you some account of her Person, I will make her Picture in few words. She is above sixty years of age, of a very low stature, extreme fat and thick: her Complexion, Voice, and Countenance are masculine, her Nose is great, her Eyes are large and blew, and her Eyebrows yellow; she has a double Chin strew'd with some long Hairs of a Beard, and her un­der Lip sticks out a little. Her Hair is of a bright Chesnut colour, about a hand-breadth long, powder'd and bristl'd up, without any [Page 39] Head-dress; she has a smiling Air, and is very obliging. As for her Habit, imagine a Man's Justaucor of black Sattin, reaching to the Knee, and button'd quite down; a very short black Coat, which discovers a Man's Shoe; a great knot of black Ribbon instead of a Cravat, and a Girdle above the Justaucor, which keeps up her Belly, and makes its roundness fully ap­pear.

After the Queen had left us, we visited the principal Apartments of herShe lives in the Palace Riari. Palace, where we found a great number of Pictures and other Antique Pieces of rare and exquisite beauty; I shall only name some part of 'em to you at present; as, the Augustus, of Oriental Alabaster, transparent as Amber; the Head and Feet are additional Pieces, of Brass gilt, but the rest is very entire. The sixteen ancient Columns of Giallo, with two Pillars of Oriental Alabaster se­ven foot high, the finest Agat cannot look fairer. The Venus, which might contend for the Golden Apple with that at Florence, if her Legs had not been mangl'd by that general Devourer, Time. 'Tis true, they have supply'd these Defects by the addition of new pieces, which are so admirably well fitted to the rest, that 'tis almost impossible to perceive that they have been added. The Castor and Pollux on each side of their Mother Leda, all of one piece of Marble; the Sons are bigger than the Mo­ther, and she has but one of her Eggs. The Altar of Bacchus of fine white Marble, and adorn'd with excellent Sculptures in Basso relievo. I took notice of the old Silenus, who has carous'd so briskly at the Festival of his Foster-child, that [Page 40] he is not able to walk without Supporters. I observ'd also the Bacchantes in the posture of mad Women, some of which are playing on Pipes, like the Fawn on the Vessel at Cajeta. In another corner there is aBaccho Caper omnibus aris Coeditur. All Bacchus's Altars reek with Blood of Goats. Of old humane Victims were offer'd to him; but after his Voyage to India, that Custom was abolish'd, and instead of Men, they sacrific'd only Asses and Goats. Goat flay'd alive for brousing on Father Liber's Vines; and a Boar, who is wash'd in order to be sacrific'd.

Among the Pictures, I shall only take notice of the Amours of Jupiter in the shape of a Swan, with Leda, which is one of the finest pieces of Correge. The Virgin, with the Infant Jesus, and the little St. John by Raphael, and Danae by Ca­rachio. There are also many other Pictures by the same Hands, and some by Titian, Paul Veronese, Guido, and several other famous Ma­sters.

It would be an endless Labour to describe all the rare Medals that we saw in this Palace, but since I promis'd to leave no subject wholly un­touch'd, I shall only name the Otho of Brass an Egyptian Medal, which has on the reverse the Image of Serapis; the Pertinax, a little Latin Medal, on the reverse of which that Emperor is represented offering a Sacrifice; the Antoninus Pius, having on the reverse Hercules sitting and Diana standing; another Antoninus Pius, being a little Latin Medal, which has on the reverse the same Emperor crown'd by Victory and Abundance, bringing him Fruit: this Medal has been well kept, and is in very good condition, in which its value principally consists: a third little Latin [Page 41] Medal of the same Antonin, which M. Bellori calls l' Anno nuovo, or the New Year, by reason of the four Letters on the reverse, A. N. F. F. which he interprets Annum novum, faustum, faeli­cem: and the Nero, a Latin Medal, with Hercules on the reverse.

The Cicero a Brooch of Onyx being a white Head on a brown Ground, is one of the most valuable pieces in this Cabinet.

I shall pass from these Rarities to others of a different sort. In St. Sabina's Church on Mount Aventine they shew a great Stone, which the De­vil of Colen hurl'd from the top of the arched Roof, with a design to knock out poor St. Domi­nic's Brains: which he did out of spight, if our Informers do not bely the Devil, because he had fail'd in his attempt to beat down the Chapel of the Three Kings.

Regum Reliquias quas sancta Colonia servat,
Cum torvus Satanas laedere non valuit:
Orantem voluit Sanctum trucidare; sed ecce,
Declinat rupes, & Patriarcha valet.
Beelzebub spied a holy Bone,
Which set his Guts a grumbling;
He leer'd, but durst not filch, for one
Who o'er his Beads lay mumbling,
Pox take the Rogue, cry'd Pug, e're I
Be starv'd, I'll spoyl his Whoring:
But Satan hurl'd the Stone awry,
And Dominic 'scap'd a scowring.

[Page 42]You have heard of theIt was made in the year 1360. Crucifix at St. Paul's which spoke to St. Bridget; and therefore I shall only tell you, that it was made by P. Cavallini, and that this is not the only Image in Rome that has learn'd to prattle. Another Crucifix at St. Mary Transpontin's has discoursed several times with St. Peter and St. Paul: And our Lady This Church was formerly the Temple of Remus, or of Remus and Ro­mulus. of S. Cosme and Damian chid S. Gregory very sharply for passing by without saluting her: Besides, I know two others at St. Mary's the Empress, and St. Gregory's on Mount Celio, whose Tongues upon occasion have wagg'd very briskly: and how many more, d' ye think, there are whom I do not know? There are others also who have wept and bled, at St. Mary's of Peace, St. Mary's in Vallicella, and another St. Mary's call'd del Pian­to; besides that in the Church of the Holy Ghost, which shed whole Floods of Tears a little before the last sacking of Rome, insomuch that all the Monks in the Convent could hardly dry its Eyes.

If you desire a more particular account of St. Gregory's Adventure with the Image that found fault with his clownishness, you will find the Story in the following Verses, which some ascribe to the Abbot Joachim, and others to the Venerable Bede; however, 'tis certain that the Author of 'em was very little acquainted with St. Gregory, yet I hope they may serve to divert you.

Heus tu! quo properas, temerarie Claviger! heus tu!
Siste gradum. Quae reddita vox mihi percutit Aures?
Quis Coeli Regis me sceptra vices (que) gerentem
Impius haud dubitat petulanti laedere lingua?
[Page 43] Siste gradum; converte oculos, venerare vocantem.
O mirum! O portentum! effundit imago loquelas!
(At forte illudunt sopitos somnia sensus)
Mene vocas? O Effigies! hanc labra moventem,
Flectentem (que) caput video. Quid quaeris, Imago!
Nomen, Imago, tuum liceat cognoscere. Mater
Sancta tui Domini, libidine est ignota Gregori?
Virgo parens, ignara tori, taclus (que) virilis;
Regia Progenies; Rosa mystica; Faederis Arca;
Excelsi Regina Poli; Domus aurea; sponsa Tonantis,
Justitiae speculum & Clypaeus; Davidica Turris;
Janua Coelorum, tibi ne est ignota Gregori?
Ignaro veniam concede, insignis Imago.
Virgo Maria priùs nunquàm mihi visa: loquentem
Nunquam te prius audivi: quis talia vidit?
Parco lubens: posthac sed reddere verba salutis
Debita, mente tene. Quò te nunc semita ducit?
Supra Altare tuum, Missam celebravit odoram
Presbyter Andreas; animam liberavit, & ecce,
Impatiens Semicocta jacet prope limina clausa
Gurgitis, ille viam petit à me. Perge Gregori.
Image.

Hark ye, Mr. Turnkey, whither so fast, you boldface you?

Pope.
What prophane noise invades my sacred Ears?
Who dares revile with his unhallow'd tongue
The great Vicegerent of the King of Heaven?
Image.

Stop, turn thy Eyes, and worship her that calls thee.

Pope.
O Miracle! O Prodigy! a speaking Image!
Some Dream perhaps my drowsie Senses cheats:
No, 'tis no Dream; but didst thou call me, Image?
What art thou? or, what wouldst? speak, I
conjure thee.
Image.
[Page 44]
Dost thou not know the Mother of thy Lord;
The Virgin-Mother never touch'd by Man;
Offspring of sacred Princes; Mystic Rose;
Ark of the Covenant; Queen o'th' Starry Sky;
Temple of Gold; the Thund'rers much-lov'd Spouse;
Mirror and Shield of Justice; David's Tower;
The Gate of Heaven; dost thou not know her Gregory?
Pope.
Pardon, illustrious, sacred, much-wrong'd Image;
Forgive an Injury ignorantly done
My Ignorance caus'd; let it excuse my Crime.
I never saw thy glorious Face before,
Nor ever heard thy Heav'nly Voice till now:
What Mortal ever saw or heard such Won­ders?
Image.
I do forgive thee, willingly forgive thee;
But ask not pardon for a second Error:
Still with a decent Salutation greet
Me, in thy passage.—Whither was thy Journey?
Pope.
My Brother Julio lately on thy Altars
Aton'd Heav'ns Anger, sav'd a Soul; and lo,
The half-boyl'd Ghost, impatient of delay,
Lies at the close-shut Gates of Paradise,
And, longing, waits my coming for admit­tance.
Image.
Go thy ways, Gregory.

The rarest Picture in Rome is at S. Syl­vester's, in the Field of Mars, which is an They affirm, That this is the Image mention'd by J. Damascen, which Christ sent to K. Abgarus. Eusebius recites the Let­ters that past between Christ and Abgarus but says nothing of an Image. See Reiskii Exercitationes de imaginibus Christi. Image of Christ, done, as they say, by him­self.

[Page 45]If you desire Relicks, I can furnish you with some that are very curious. The Ark of the Covenant, Moses and Aaron's Rods, and the Fore-skin of Christ, are kept at S. John de Lateran. One of the pieces of Money that Judas receiv'd, the same person's Lanthorn, by the good leave of another Pretender at S. Denis in France, and the Cross of the St. Good Thief are at the Church of the Holy Cross of Jerusalem, with the Tail of Balaam's Ass, and St. Paul's Thorn. And S. Roch's Bowl may be seen at S. Marcel's. They tell us also, that some Beams of the Star that conducted the Wise Men were formerly preserv'd, with the Horns of Moses; but 'tis long since these Rays were eclipsed or evaporated, as well as the sound of the Jerusalem Bells; and Moses's Horns were transported to Genoua, where (if we may be­lieve the common report) they are still safely preserv'd.

The Navel of Christ is at S. Maria del Popolo: The story of that Church's Foundation is very pleasant. In the very place, say they, where it now stands, there was formerly a large Walnut-tree, on the Branches of which a great many Devils did constantly perch, to guard the Ashes of Nero, that were enclos'd in an Urn near that place. Now, the People, as you must needs suppose, were extreamly plagu'd by such trou­blesome Neighbours. Pope Paschal II, mov'd with compassion at their Miseries, endeavour'd by Fasting and Prayer to drive away this Hel­lish Fry; and it was reveal'd to him, That he must pull up the Tree by the Roots, and in the very same place erect a Church to the Honour of Mary. This Advice was put in exe­cution [Page 46] with a great deal of solemnity; all the People contributed to the work, which gave occasion to the Name of St, Mary of the People.

I must also say something ofS. Giacomo Scossacavalli. S. James Shake-horse, where they show the StoneOn the Altar of the Presenta­tion, on which Christ was circumcis'd, with the impression made by one of his Heels upon the Marble; and alsoOn St. Ann's Altar. another Marble Table, on which Abraham design'd to have sacrific'd his Son. The Empress Helena, says the Story, sent these bulky Relicks to be plac'd in St. Peter's Church; but as soon as the Waggon came over-against St. James's, the Horses stopp'd suddenly, and could not be made to go one step further: This unexpected Freak of theirs, you must needs think, surpriz'd the Drivers, but they perceiv'd at last that the Stones were really grown heavier, which made 'em imagine that these Relicks had a secret inclination to lodge at St. James's, rather than at St. Peter's. At first indeed this Fancy did not appear very reasona­ble; but there being by chance one in the com­pany who remember'd that St. Paul calls St. James as well as St. Peter, The Pillar of the Church, they were all confirm'd in the Belief, that this Acci­dent was not brought to pass without some mysterious design: However, tho' all the Buf­falo's in Italy had been there, the Waggon would have sooner pull'd them backwards than they could have drawn it forwards; and there­fore they were e'en forc'd to leave 'em at St. James's; and to preserve the memory of so great a Miracle, they gave that Saint the sir­name of Shake-horse.

[Page 47]You have reason to believe that I have had the Curiosity to hear some of their Preachers; neither are you deceiv'd when you suspect, that I am no Admirer of their way ofTheir finest Discourses are those which give the Hearers most di­version. 'Tis true, every Order has a particular Way of Preaching: The Jesuites are esteem'd very good Declaimers, and their Gesture is not so extravagant as that of other Monks; but their Stile is the most fantasticall. The Capuchins are everlasting Thunderers, and preach nothing but Death and Destructi­on, if it be not a day set apart for Buffoonry. Hell, Purgatory, and the Last Judgment are the Sub­jects of almost all their Discourses. They pull their Beards, clap their Hands, and roar out hideously. I found t'other day a very plea­sant Remark, in a Book that treats on this Subject; the Author of which assures us, that always when a Capuchin preaches the Dogs run out of the Church. Preaching, and, you might have added also, of their Ser­mons. The Preachers here, generally speaking, are meer makers of wry Mouths and ug­ly Faces. They have indeed some natural Endowments that have a tendency to some parts of Oratory, but they are per­fectly ignorant of sublime Elo­quence. All their Motions are extravagant Agitations of the Body, or apish Tricks; the variation of the Tone of their Voice throws 'em from the loudest Treble to the lowest Base twenty times in a quarter of an hour; and their Discourses have neither Strength nor Gravity. They bawl, they tor­ment themselves, their Pulpits are for the most part like so many Balconies, where they run about with a great deal of Noise and Hear, but there is neither Senee nor Reason in all this. They are perfect strangers to that admirable way of pronunciation, which by an agreeable and well-order'd mixture of softness and vehe­mency does at once charm, and move, and ra­vish the Souls of the Hearers: And besides, their whole Discourses do usually consist of a ridiculous Medley of insipid Jests and childish Tales. I heard a Carmelite the other day, who [Page 48] in a Sermon that he preach'd before the penitent Whores of the Holy Cross, concerning Mary Magdalen, set his Fancy on a furious gallop. In order to display the Merit of that Sacrifice which his Penitent made of the Pleasures of the World, he spent at least a quarter of an hour in paint­ing her forth as the most charming Creature under Heaven. He forgot not the least Feature of the compleatest Beauty, and spoke rather like a skilful Painter than a Preacher. Perhaps also he imitated Perrin del Vague, who was wont al­most always to make the Picture of his Mistriss, when he had a mind to describe any beautiful Lady in a History.

You must address your self to some other person for a satisfactory Answer to that Que­stion which you propose, Whether there are more Curtezans at Rome or at Venice. I must acknowledge I do not see so many of 'em here as at Venice: but that is no Argument of their scarcity, especially since I am assur'd by several persons that theirUrbs est jam tota Lupanar. Rome now is one vast Brothel. Bapt. Mantuan. number is almost infinite. As bold an Undertaker as Sixtus V. was, and how eagerly soever he strove to purge Rome of that kind of Cattel, you know he was never able to compass his Design; and even after he had banish'd the lewdest of 'em, he was forc'd to re­call 'em, and settle e'm again, with as much so­lemnity as they had been by his Namesake Six­tus IV. This was done, they say, to prevent greaterRoma quid est? quod te docuit praeposterus or­do. Quid docuit? Jungas versa elementa, scies: Roma Amor est. Amor est qualis? Praeposte­rus. Unde hoc? Roma mares—Noli dicere plura, Scio. These Verses can­not be english'd without losing the Pun. Disorders. St. Paul says, That 'tis bet­ter to marry than to burn; the Romans indeed are [Page 49] not willing to burn, but they find the best Ex­tinguishers at the Bawdy-house.

This puts me in mind of the ancient Picture of a Wedding at the Aldobrandin Palace: 'Tis a piece of aOr the broad Band under the Cornish. Frize, which has been brought hither with that part of the Wall on which it is painted. It is a famous and much valued piece, both for its Antiquity, and the excellency of the Workmanship. You know that the Cere­monies of Marriage were very different, and subject to many alterations among the Romans: here the Bride is seated on the side of the Bed, whereas she was sometimes wont to sit on a Sheep's Fleece, or on a Figure of the God Priapus; she bows down her Head, and coun­terfeits a certain Grief and Coyness, whilst a Pronula, Matron with a smiling countenance comforts, instructs, and perswades her, and labours to make her sensible of her Duty. The Bride­groom, crown'd with Ivy, and undress'd, sits near the Bed, with a brisk Air, waiting with a great deal of impatience, I warrant ye, till his whining Spouse has made an end of all her simperings. In the mean time four or five Maids are busied in several places, in prepa­ring Baths and odoriferous Oyntments; and a She-Musician plays on a Harp, whilst another seems to sing some Hymen io, O Hymenaee, some Epitha­lamium or luscious Song to dispel the Charms.

The Pictures on the Pyramid of Cestius, and the above-mention'd Frize, are the only Remains of the Ancient Painting which I have yet seen in Rome. I doubt not but this Mau­soleum of Caius Cestius has been already describ'd; yet since 'tis a very rare and beautiful Monu­ment, [Page 50] I cannot forbear giving you some ac­count of it. The Pyramid is square, and ends in a very sharp point; it is a hundred and twenty foot high, and ninety four foot broad at the Base. The Body of the Monument is of Brick, but cover'd over with square pieces of white Marble. It was repair'd by Alexander the Seventh, in the year 1673, and almost en­tirely restor'd to its primitive Beauty. It ap­pears, by the fairC. Cestius. L. F. Pob. Epulo, Pr. Tr. Pl. VII. Vir Epulonum. Inscriptions that are still to be seen upon it, that it was erected in memory ofBlondus pre­tends that this Sepulchre was common to the whole Society of the Septemviri Epulones. But he is the only person that I know who is of this Opinion. C. Cestius, one of the seven Officers who were appointed to take care of Religious Feasts. We enter'd this Mausoleum by a low and nar­row passage, which pierces thro' the thickness of the Building to the middle of it, where we found a little arch'd Room nineteen foot long, thirteen broad, and fourteen foot high. This Chamber is plaister'd over with a certain white and polish'd Mortar, on which there are still seen several Figures of Women, Vessels, and other Ornaments. I will not undertake to de­scribe all these things particularly; much less will I attempt to write a Dissertation on so diffi­cult a subject; I will only tell you, that ha­ving had the fortune to discourse several times with learned Antiquaries concerning these Pi­ctures, I found their Opinions very different: some pretend, that in respect to the Monument they represent the Preparatives for a Funeral Show; and others think, that they contain a representation of a Banquet, as a Memorial al­luding to the Office of the Deceas'd. One of the Figures holds a Vessel, in which some pour Lustral Water, and others Wine Another Figure [Page 51] bears great Pipes, which, according to the first Opinion, were design'd for Mirth, and accor­ding to the last, for Mourning; and both the disagreeing Parties pretend, with equal proba­bility, to confirm their Suppositions by this Di­stick in Ovid's Fasts:

Cantabat Fanis, cantabat Tibia Ludis,
Cantabat moestis Tibia funeribus.
The Pipe, with sov'raign and resistless Art,
In Temples, fans Devotion's sacred Fire;
With Songs it warms, with Dirges chills the Heart,
While those expel the Grief which these inspire.

But one thing especially seems to confirm the latter Opinion, if I may be permitted to declare my Thoughts on this subject, namely, That the Habits of the Figures are of several colours, which does not at all agree with the Funeral Ceremonies that were us'd in those times. It appears by the Inscription of a Pedestal that was dug up near the Pyramid, and on which a Statue of Cestius seems to have been plac'd, that this Roman dy'd in the beginning of Augu­stus's Reign; and those who have enquir'd in­to the Customs of that Age, assure us, that the Women who assisted at Burials were cloth'd in white, and that the Fashion of Mourning in black was abolish'd about the beginning of Caesar's Dictatorship. Besides, I know not what should hinder me from adventuring to main­tain that these Pictures were only design'd for an Ornament of the Tomb, without regard ei­ther [Page 52] to Feast or Funeral. The Sepulchre of the Nase's, so exactly describ'd by Mr. Bellori, is also full of Histories and other Ornaments, which are the meer product of the Painter's Fancy. And the same Observation may be made concerning several other Tombs, and espe­cially Urns, which are adorn'd with Sculptures in basso relievo, that represent an infinite num­ber of indifferent things.

The durableness of these Pictures, and the lasting beauty of their Colours, deserve to be consider'd. You know thatIt was inven­ [...] by John de [...]ge, a Native [...] Guelderland, in the year 1450 Painting in Oyl is a late Invention; and it appears that the Colours on this Monument have been only moi­sten'd with Water, and even do not penetrate the Plaister; tho' there are some places in which they seem to have lost nothing of their first liveliness.

This Pyramid is Two hundred paces distant from the little Hill commonly call'd il Doliolo, or Monte Testacio, that is, The Hill of Potsheards. This Hillock is about half a mile in compass, and a hundred and fifty foot in perpendicular heighth. Those who treat of such Curiosities differ much in their suppositions concerning this great heap of broken Pots, but the most general Opinion is this: The Hillock being near the Tiber, 'tis suppos'd that all the Potters wrought in this place, both for the nearness of the Wa­ter, which is of necessary use in their Employ­ment, and for the conveniency of transporting their Ware. 'Tis also believ'd that they threw all the broken pieces of their Vessels into one place; and this supposition is confirm'd by ano­ther Conjecture, That they might have an [Page 53] express Order for so doing, to prevent the inun­dation of the River on that side. And they conclude, that if we consider the vast number of Idols, Ornaments of Temples, Bathing-tubs, Statues, Vats, Tyles, and all sorts of Vessels that were made in the great City of Rome, it will not appear strange, that the above­mention'd Hillock was rais'd out of their Frag­ments. This supposition seems reasonable at the first view, but, in my opinon, it is not well grounded, because the Authors of it have not examin'd the matter with due attention.

Some Wine-Merchants have thought fit to dig Cellars under this Hill, to preserve their Wines cool: and I have been present several times, and in several places, when they were at work in digging these Caves, so that I had both Time and Opportunity to consider all that they drew out of them, yet I could never find any Fragments of Images, Tyles, or Orna­ments, nor any Remainder, or the least appea­rance of those things that I mention'd. And in more than twenty Cartloads of these broken pieces, I observ'd only Fragments of Urns, or at the least of Vessels that seem'd to have been Urns; which being suppos'd, we must proceed to establish more probable Conjectures.

'Tis well known, that in ancient times only the poorest sort of People were buried with­out the City, in certain Pits call'd Puticuli. The Custom of burning dead Bodies continu'd very long, during which time there was made a prodigious quantity of Earthen Urns for the ordinary sort of people; and 'tis impossible to conceive that all the care that was taken to pre­serve [Page 54] 'em could prevent their being frequently broken. May it not then be suppos'd, that out of reverence to those Vessels, which had been employ'd to so sacred an use, and might still contain some part of the Ashes of the Dead, that superstitious people esteem'd it a Duty of Religion to gather all these Fragments, and lay 'em in heaps together? Neither should such a Custom appear strange to us, since 'tis so little different from the common practice of Christians at this very day: for, instead of suffering the Bones of deceas'd persons, that are dug up when a new Grave is made, to be scatter'd about, do we not endeavour to preserve 'em with some sort of Honour and Respect, by piling them up in heaps?

Since the Reputation of the famousThere was a certain Taylor, call'd Pasquin, who liv'd near this place, and whose Shop was the usual Ren­dezvous of Newsmongers. This Taylor was a man of Wit, of a jovial Hu­mour, Satyrical, and a great lo­ver of Jests; his Lampoons were usually call'd Pasquinades, and all the satyrical Libels about the Town were ascrib'd to him. To perswade the World that he was the Author of all those cutting Jests, they took care to affix them on the Statue that is here describ'd, which was at his Gate, and by degrees came to be known by the Name of Pasquin. Pasquin makes you desirous to be inform'd more parti­cularly concerning him and his Companion Marforio, I will endeavour to satisfie your Cu­riosity. The first is a mangl'd and disfigur'd Statue, which, some think, was made for a Roman Souldier; it stands leaning against the Wall of a House, at theAd angulum Arianae redis. Boiss. corner of a place where several Streets meet. I know not whe­ther you have heard of that pleasant Answer which Alexander VI. is said to have given to those who advis'd him to throw Pasquin into the Tiber, because of the continualVendit Alexander Claves, Altaria, Christum. Emerat ille prius, vendere jure potest. Sextus Tarquinius, Sextus Nero, Sextus & ipse, Semper sub Sextis, perdita Roma fuit. Conditur hoc Tumulo Lucretia nomine, sed re, Thais Pontificis Filia, Sponsa, Nurus. Satyrs which [Page] [Page]

Pasquin

Vol. 2. P. 54.

Pazzia Sapienza

[...]o dico Altrifanno

[...]e Diis quidem parco

[...]on dir mai mal Sevoi viver [...]n Corte

[...] comio sto [...] cantar unpoco il vero

Vivere qui sancte cupitis,
discedite Româ:
Omnia cum liceant,
non licet esse bonus.

[Page]

Marforio

Vol. 2. P. 55

[Page] [Page 55] that critical Statue made against him;This Thought is by some ascri­bed to Pope A­drian IV. I should be afraid, said he, lest it should be turn'd to a Frog, and trouble me both day and night with its croaking.

Marforio is another maim'd Figure, by some said to have been a Statue of Jupiter, or, accord­ing to others, of the Rhine, or of the Nera, which passes by Terni; but all this is uncertain, as well as the Etymology of the Names of our two Censurers. 'Tis very probable that it was formerly the Mode to affix the Pasquinades on the Statue of Pasquin, but that Custom is laid aside, and all the Satyrical Invectives are still father'd on Pasquin, tho' they never come near him. 'Tis usual to make him answer the Questions that are propos'd to him by Martorio, which stands in one of the Courts of the Capitol.

The Apophthegms of this sincere and impar­tial Statue put me in mind of those which I read at the Villa Benedetti; all the Walls of that House are lin'd with Proverbs and Sentences on all subjects, some of which I transcrib'd, and have here subjoyn'd.

Chi non s'avventura, non ha ventura.
He that nothing ventures, nothing wins.
Regia, crede mihi, res est succurrere lapsis.
To succour the distress'd, is soveraign Virtue.
Inter cuncta, leges, & percunctabere Doctos,
Qua ratione potes traducere leniter aevum.
Consult the Dead and Living wise,
And square your Life by their Advice.
[Page 56] Per mangiar assai, convien mangiar puoco.
He that would eat much, must eat little.
Cum fata sinunt
Vivite laeti,—
Stygias ultro quaerimus undas.
Let's live while we may,
And husband to day,
E're we have pass'd its Noon;
For we may prodigally waste,
But never can enjoy too fast
A Life that ends so soon.
Splendida magnificis Paupertas regnat in Aulis.
Courtiers are but gaudy Beggars.
Chi paga debito, fà capitale.
He that pays his Debts gets an Estate.
Qui procul à curis, ille laetus:
Si vis esse talis,
Esto ruralis.
Mirth and Care can ne'r agree
Where this is absent, that appears;
The Country only boasts to be
The Seat of Mirth, and void of Cares.
Donna virtuosa, non sà star otiosa.
A virtuous Lady can never be lazy.
Si qua voles aptè nubere, nube pari,
Elige cui dicas, Tu mihi sola places?
[Page 57]How happy's the Man, and how happy is she
Who are equally yok'd, and wou'd never be free?
Vive tibi, & longe Nomina magna fuge.
Let not Ambition rob thee of thy self.
Donna che duona, difficilimente è buona.
A Woman that gives is easily gotten.
Si Fortuna juvat, caveto tolli.
Si Fortuna tonat, caveto mergi.
When Fortune shines, let not its Beams
Raise Vapors in thy Breast;
Nor let its thund'ring Hurricanes
Disturb thy peaceful Rest.
Fortiter ille facit, qui miser esse potest.
That man is brave who dares be miserable.
Ʋn nemico è troppo, & cento amici non bastano.
One Enemy is too much, and an hundred
Friends are not enough.
Decet timeri Caesarem, at plus diligi.
A Prince displays the Glory of the Sovereign Pow'r
Much in his People's Fear, in their Affection more.
Sequitur superbos, à tergo Deus.
The Wrath of Heaven pursues the proud.
Grand pazzia il viver povero, per morir ricco.
He's a Fool that lives poor, that he may die rich.
Quis Dives? qui nil cupiat: Quis pauper? Avarus.
What Man is happy, great and rich?
He that nothing doth desire:
And who's a miserable Wretch?
He who still does more require.
Qui nihil potest sperare, desperet nihil.
He that can hope for nothing, should despair
of nothing.
Pax optima rerum:
Pax Materia Gaudii,
Dulce Paeis nomen,
Candidas pax homines, trux decet Ira feras.
Lasting Bliss and true Delight
Peace, and only Peace imparts:
While jarring Brutes contend and fight,
Let humane Minds seek humane Arts.
Nobilitas sola est at (que) unica Virtus.
Virtue alone is true Nobility.
Omnes una manet Nox
Et calcanda semel via Leti.
'Tis appointed for all Men once to dye.

I'm sorry that I cannot relate to you so many Wonders of Tivoli and Frescati as you seem to expect. They are indeed very pleasant places, and rather than give offence, I will e'en adven­ture to call 'em fine places. But, if once this Maxim be establish'd, That when we consider things which are reputed beautiful, we ought [Page 59] to proportion the Esteem that we have for 'em, by comparing 'em one with another; as, the beauty of Roses and Gilliflowers does so darken the fainter lustre of a Field-Daisie, that we pass by it without reflexion. If, I say, this Principle be laid down, I must sincerely ac­knowledge, that if we compare Frescati to Ver­sailles, or even to several other pleasant Seats in France, that are not Royal Houses, I am per­swaded, and dare positively affirm, that the ce­lebrated Wonders not only of Frescati, but also of Tivoli, and all the most beautiful places about Rome, I mean as to Gardens and Water-works, deserve no higher Title than that of Pretty Toys.

Frescati is a very small Town,FRESCATI, anciently call'd Tusculum. seated on the Brow of a Hill, twelve miles from Rome. There are several Houses of Pleasure in it, of which the three principal are Monte-dracone, belonging to the Prince Borghese, Belvedere to the Prince Pamphilio, and the Villa Ludovisia to the Dutchess of Guadagnola the Constable Colonna's Sister; and all deserve no more to be compar'd to Versailles, than Frescati to Rome, or two or three Trees to a fine Landskip.

Monte-dracone is a large Structure, situated on a rising Ground, from which you may dis­cover Rome and the whole extent of the inter­jacent Plain; but that City is at too great a distance to be seen from hence with pleasure, and the Verdure of the Plain is too uniform and unadorn'd with that variety of Beauties with which a Landskip ought to be embellish'd. The view of Paris from S. Clou is infinitely [Page 60] more charming. 'Tis true, the Prospect is more diversify'd on the side of Monte-Porcio, but 'tis also much more limited. The Avenues of this House are very difficult; and, to speak plainly, there are at present neither Fountains nor Gardens about it, that merit a particular de­scription.

The situation of Belvedere is not unlike to that of Monte-dracone. There is a pretty Cas­cade in it, and a Grotto, where you may see Apollo with the Nine Muses on Mount Parnassus. We were inform'd, that all these Statues play'd on Pipes, when the Machins were in order.

The Cascade at the Villa Ludovisia is also the principal Ornament of its Garden. The Fur­niture of all these three Houses is mean; and every thing about 'em appears neglected.

TIVOLI, of old Tibur. That which by the ig­norant People is call'd Tivoli Vecchio, is the Villa Hadriani of the Ancients. Tivoli is another little Town, seated on a Hillock, eighteen miles from Rome; the Duke of Modena has a House of Pleasure in it, which is commonly call'd the Cardinal d' Este's Palace, because it is set apart for the use of the Cardi­nals of that Family, when there are any. This Palace is large, and makes a handsom show, but has neither fine Apartments nor Furniture. The greatest Rarities that it can boast of, are three Chambers painted in Fresco, by Raphael, with some ancient Statues. The Garden is not very large, but it is embellish'd with pleasant Terras-walks and Water-works, which far exceed those at Frescati, and are even thought to excel all the Works of that nature in Italy: but the greatest part of the Canals are unfortunately stopp'd, the Machins out of order, and the [Page 61] whole House appearsApril 8. 1688. at present in so forlorn and neglected a condition, that 'tis impossible to behold the remainders of its Beauty with­out a Pleasure mix'd with Grief. 'Twould be certainly very unjust to refuse the Praises that are due to a place, which if it be consider'd singly and by its self, must be acknowledg'd to have a great many Charms, and to contain a great number of Curiosities: Neither do I pre­tend in the least to derogate from its true value: My design is only to give a just Idea of it, and to remove those Prejudices with which ma­ny persons are possess'd concerning it. I will not strive to refute the Opinion of those who believe that the Gardens and Water-works of Italy did formerly surpass those of France; but since the Face of Affairs is alter'd, we ought also to change our Language. I must confess I was strangely surpriz'd at the sight of the tri­fling Curiosities of this Country, after I had heard the Water-works of Italy so extravagant­ly commended, as if there had been nothing in the Universe that could with Justice be compar'd to 'em. They tell us, that the Palace and Gardens of Este cost Three millions, and I will not pretend to contradict 'em, but I must beg leave to assure them, that Versailles has incom­parable Beauties; that the Water-works of that place exceed a million of such as those that are at Tivoli; and that the very Lead of the Canals at Versailles cost ten times more than all Tivoli.

The Cascade of theIn this River are found little white and smooth Flints, which are call'd the Hail-shot of Tivoli. Du Val. Treverona is the most remarkable thing in this little Town. This River forms a very large and pleasant Pool, [Page 62] but the Fall is not very high. Not far off are the Ruins of an ancient Building, said to have been the Sibyl'sOthers pre­tend that it was a Temple of Hercules. House; but that is a fabulous Story, which might be refuted by good Argu­ments. There are in the Court two ancient Statues of a reddish Granite speckl'd with black, which, in M. Spon's Opinion, do both represent the Goddess Isis. The same Author supposes that Adrian caus'd 'em to be brought from Egypt to adorn his Pleasure-house at Tivoli.

The Hill of Tivoli has furnish'd, Time out of Mind, the greatest part of the Stones that are us'd at Rome. This Stone is usually call'd Travertin, by corruption of the word Tyburtin. The Collisea was cover'd all over with it, and the Front of S. Peter's Church is built with the same. 'Tis plain, that this Stone is excellent for some uses, but it is yellowish and porous, and your Portland Quarry, as well as those at Paris and Caen, are better for service.

These Quarries put me in mind of a memo­rable Accident related by Alexander Tassoni, in his Various Thoughts, an account of which will not be unpleasant to you. Not many daysHe wrote a­bout Fifty years ago. ago, says that Author, the Workmen that were em­ploy'd to dig Stone at Tivoli, having cleft a great Mass, observ'd in the middle of it an empty space, in which they found a living Crayfish that weigh'd four pounds, which they boyl'd and eat. I have read in anotherAlexander, Alexandr. Bapt. Fulgosus mentions a li­ving Worm that was found in the middle of a Flint. Alexander, That he found a wrought Diamond in the heart of a great piece of Marble, and a considerable quan­tity of sweet and odoriferous Oyl in another piece of like Marble. Tassoni also relates, That the same year a Cat suckl'd a Rat in Tivoli. If [Page 63] these Stories were well attested, I believe you would not be less pleas'd with 'em than with the Cascades in the Gardens of Este.

Three miles from Tivoli, Lacus Albuneus. in our way home­wards, we pass'd by a little Lake call'd Lago de Bagni, or Solfatara, and by the People nam'd the Sixteen Barges, because of a like number of floating Islands that are upon it. It resembles a Pond, being almost round, and Two hundred paces in diameter: its Water is extream clear, and seems to be of a very blew colour. It sends forth a pretty large Brook, which, after a short and rapid course, loses it self in the Anieno. Both the Lake and Rivulet exhale a sulphureous odour, which is very strong,They pretend that the Water of the Anieno is endow'd with a singular Vertue to whiten the Teeth, and Ivory. Schrad. and is smelt at a great distance. The late Cardinal d' Este having in vain attempted to sound the depth of this Lake, perswaded two Divers to enter into it, one of whom was never after­wards seen, and the other related, that he found the Water so hot, tho' at the surface it is cold, that he was not able to descend to any consi­derable depth. The Land is dry and hollow underneath about the Banks of the Lake, as it appears by the deaf sound made by the tread­ing of Horses upon it. 'Tis probable that the visible part of the Lake is only a narrow Mouth of a vast Abyss, which widens and extends it self under Ground very far on both sides. And I think it may be conjectur'd concerning the first Diver, that either he ventur'd too deep, and was surpriz'd by the heat of the Water, or that having wander'd into some subterraneous Gulf, he struck his Head against the impend­ing Arch, instead of rising at the Mouth of [Page 64] the Lake. But not to insist upon the first con­jecture, we must necessarily conclude, that the Body was carried into some subterraneal Vault, since it never afterwards appear'd on the surface of the Water.

On the Bank of this Lake we saw certain old Ruins, which Antiquaries call the Baths of Agrippa. The largest of the floating Islands makes a perfect Oval, and is about fifteen foot long; they are still crowded together on that side whither the Wind drives 'em; and the least touch puts 'em in motion. Two of our Company went into one of the smallest of 'em, and push'd it from the Land only by thrusting against the Bank with the points of their Swords.

I have several other Observations to commu­nicate to you concerning the principal Houses of Pleasure in Rome, tho' I do not design to describe 'em particularly, as I intimated to you before.

The Villa Borghese is, in my Opinion, kept in better order than any that I have hitherto seen. 'Tis certainly a very pleasant place, and fit for a great Prince. The House is almost cover'd over on the out-side with Antique Basso relievo's, which are dispos'd in so natural an order, and with so much Symmetry, that you would be tempted to think they had been purposely made to fill those places where they are now set. Of all that multitude of Statues with which the Apartments of this Palace are re­plenish'd, I shall only take notice of theOn the Base 'tis written, [...]. Made by Agasias Son of Dositheus, the Ephesian. Gla­diator, of which you have a Copy in Brass at the [Page 65] end of the Canal in St. James's Park, the Juno of Porphyry, Romulus's Wolf of fine red Mar­ble of Egypt, the Busts of Hannibal, Seneca, and Pertinax, the Hermaphrodite, and the old Silenus holding Bacchus in his Arms.

The David throwing a Stone out of a Sling at Goliah, the Aeneas carrying his Father, and the Transformation of Daphne, are three mo­dern Pieces made by Bernin, which deserve to be rank'd among the first. It would be an endless Labour to enumerate all the fine Pictures. The St. Anthony, by Caracchio, and the Dead Christ, by Raphael, are esteem'd the two prin­cipal.

I cannot forbear repeating once more, That the Villa Borghese is a delicious place. If all the Royal Magnificency which adorns some other places does not appear in this with so much Splendor, yet it must be acknowledg'd, that its Beauties are more soft and charming, such ten­der and natural Beauties as touch our Hearts more sensibly, if they do not inspire us with so much awe. And even I will add, That Rome being the Source of Antique Statues and Scul­ptures, some of which are inimitable, all the rest of the World must yield the precedency in this point to the House of a Roman Gentle­man.

As we were walking in the little Flower-Garden, the Gardner made us take notice of a double white Hyacinth, the Root of which, he assur'd us, cost Five hundred Crowns a year be­fore. I know that Tulips have been sold in Flanders for Four or Five hundred Pistols, so great was the Fondness that some Persons had [Page 64] [...] [Page 65] [...] [Page 66] for these Flowers. We need not longer won­der at the great price of Jewels, since the least durable Beauties in the World are valu'd at so high a rate.

The Villa Ludovisia is very much out of re­pair, by reason of the absence of the Prince of Piombino, who is Lord of it. There is a pro­digious multitude of ancient Statues to be seen in this place. The Faustina in love with a Gla­diator, whom she embraces before he goes to fight; the two Gladiators, oneHe is usu­ally call'd the Dying Mirmillo. There were three principal sorts of Gladiators; An­dabates, Retiarii and Myrmillo­nes. Galtruch. expiring, and the other resting himself; the Statues of Bacchus, Mercury, and Concord, are all admirable Pieces. The best Pictures have been carried to other places, with the richest Furniture; yet they shew'd us a Bedsted enchas'd with several sorts of precious Stones, to the value, as we were inform'd, of Twenty thousand Pistols, but at present 'tis out of order. In the same Chamber we saw a heap of Bones which, they assur'd us, was the Skeleton of a petrefy'd Man; but they are mistaken, for the Bones are not turn'd to Stone, only they are cover'd over with a candy'd Film, or stony Crust, which has given occasion to their Error: Not that I imagine Bones uncapable of Petrefaction, as well as other things, for I believe there is nothing in the World that may not be subject to such an alteration. In the several Cabinets of Curiosi­ties that I have seen in my Travels, I have observ'd a prodigious Variety of petrefy'd Bo­dies, Fruits, Flowers, Trees, Wood, Plants, Bones, Fishes, Bread, pieces of Flesh, and Ani­mals of all sorts. Pareus relates an Instance of a Child that was turn'd to a Stone in the [Page 67] Mother's Belly: And which is far more sur­prizing, we are inform'd by the Histories of our Age, that an entireThe Town of Biedoblo. See Kircher's Mun­dus Subterra­neus. Aventinus in his Bavarian Annals speaks of several Persons in that Country, who as they were milking their Cows were suddenly transform'd into Statues of Salt, by the force of certain spirituous Steams, that broke forth in the place where they were, during a great Earthquake in the year 1348. City in Afric was pe­trefy'd in one night, with Men, Beasts, Trees, Houshold Furniture, Tools, and every thing that was in the Town, without exception.

The Villa Chigi abounds with little Water­spouts, which never fail to besprinkle the Cu­rious, if they do not take care to prevent those Showers, by feeing the Gardener when they enter. There is also a Cabinet of Curiosities, of which the little Adrian of Oriental Jasper is the most celebrated Piece.

The great Alleys of the Villa Montalto or Sa­velli, with its Statues and Pictures, make it vye with the finest Country-houses about Rome. Here is still to be seen Sixtus the Fifth's little grey Chamber, while he was yet only Cardi­nal Montalto, and, as you know, a Franciscan. The Germanicus, the Pescennius Niger, the Scipio, the Goddess Naenia, the Adonis, and the Gladia­tor, are reckon'd among the principal Antiqui­ties: And among the Pictures, the Dead Christ by Raphael, the S. Francis by Caracchio, the Virgin and the Bacchus by Guido, with the S. John by Pomarancia.

The Gardens of the Villa Pamphili, would be in my Opinion the fairest that I have seen, if they were kept in better order: for here I ob­serv'd a more judicious design, more Symme­try, [Page 68] and a more regular disposition of all the Parts than any where else. The House is adorn'd on the outside with fine Antique Basso relievo's, like that of the Villa Borghese, and it is no less replenish'd within; but the best Statues were very much disorder'd by an Accident which I shall relate to you. The Prince Pam­philio, while he was yet very young, was im­portunately sollicited by the Jesuites to enter into their Society. He was not altogether averse to this motion, and those designing Fathers em­ploy'd all their Cunning to gain him under a Pretext of Devotion, to which they knew he was very much enclin'd. Among other Strata­gems which they us'd, they exclaim'd loudly against the Indecency of those naked Marble Figures which he kept in this Palace; and the tender Consciences of these rigid Casuists oblig'd him at length to order several parts of these Statues to be cover'd. This poor young Prince, to humour his ghostly Fathers, caus'd Shirts of Plaster to be put on all his Marble Subjects, Men, Women, and Children. This Reformation was very grievous to some persons, especially to Painters, Sculptors, and Antiquaries, but no humane Consideration could prevail with the Priest-ridden Prince to desist from his pious de­sign to hide so many tempting and dangerous Objects. They were all daub'd and plaster'd over without mercy, save one little Bacchus, who had the good fortune to escape this holy Fury as the youngHe was after­wards made a Duke. Lord of Force was preserv'd from that of the Parisian Massacre. A poor Ve­nus, one of the Masterpieces of the famous Ca­racchio was smutted all over from head to foot, [Page 69] and transform'd into I know not how many Fi­gures, which fill at present the corner of a Pi­cture of which she was formerly the fairest Ornament.

But the Prince having at last chang'd his Mind, and being resolv'd to prefer the Com­pany of his Princess to that of the Society, was desirous to redress all these Disorders, and to restore his good People to their ancient Privi­leges. In pursuance of this design, he order'd the nasty Clay with which they were cover'd to be taken off; but the clumsy-fisted Masons had unfortunately mangl'd several parts of the Mar­ble to make their Plaster stick the better; so that the greatest part of these curious Pieces were very much damag'd.

I must not forget to tell you, that I observ'd at the Villa Savelli, an unusual Figure of Abra­ham's Sacrifice by l'Espagnolet; for, whereas Isaac is commonly painted on his Knees, and blind-folded, and his Father with a short two-handed Sword, like a Switzer's, or with a Turkish Sci­mitar, ready to cut off his Son's Head like a Frenchman; L'Espagnolet has only given him a plain sacrificing Knife, as if he were going to cut Isaac's Throat; which certainly agrees better with the Truth of the History.

Julius Romanus was the Architect of the Duke of Parma's House of Pleasure, commonly call'd Vigne Madame. This Building is neither great nor magnificent, but its beauty is regular and unaffected, and its situation extreamly delight­ful. On one side it enjoys a prospect of Rome, with several Gardens, and many pleasant Seats; [Page 70] and on the other the Eye is ravish'd with a beautiful Landskip of little and well cultivated Hills: over-against it the Tiber creeps thro' the Fields and Meadows; and at a distance the Snowy tops of the Appennin do insensibly mingle with the Clouds: behind it is a shady Wood of tall Trees, adorn'd with cool and solitary Walks, which are incomparably charming. The Gar­dens rise into Terras-walks, and want neither Fountains nor Statues.

I might add several other Observations con­cerning the Pleasure-houses of Medicis, Matthei, Lanti, Caesarini, Justiniani, and some others; but I ought to pity you, for I'm confident you could not much longer have Patience to hear of nothing but Statues and Pictures. And besides, 'tis time to put an end to this long Scroll. I am,

SIR,
Your &c,

LETTER XXV.

SIR,

I shall begin this Letter by answering the Questions you Propose concerning the Tiber. The Tiber was formerly call'd Rumon, Teren­tus, and Albula. It receives forty Rivers before its arrival at Rome, Martian. 'Tis certain that this River has nothing in its self that could have render'd it so famous as it has been; and without doubt it ows the Honour it has to be so generally known, to the Reputa­tion of that Noble City which it waters, unless per­haps some part of its Fame may be ascrib'd to the noise which its frequent Inundations have made in the World: Nevertheless it must be acknow­ledg'd that it has been often treated with too much contempt; the great Rivers are jealous of its Glory, and would have it pass for a muddy Brook, such as I perceive it has been represen­ted to you. But you may rec­kon that,The Bridg of S. Angelo is 330 foot long; and that of Sixtus 300. Some Antiquaries affirm that it was not lawful to build Houses on the Banks of the Tiber, out of re­spect to that sacred River. But this is an Error, which might be easily refuted. Clandian and seve­ral other Authors have left posi­tive accounts of the great number of noble Structures that were erect­ed on the Banks of this River. The greatest Inundation happen'd under Clement VIII. in the Month of December 1598. by a general Compu­tation, the breadth of the Tiber at Rome amounts to about three hundred Feet; and besides it is rapid and of a great depth. Sue­tonius relates, that Augustus caus'd it to be cleans'd, and somewhat enlarg'd it's Chanel to facilitate it's Course. Other Princes have also endeavour'd to prevent the Disorders that attend it's Inun­dations, but with little or no Success. The Sirocco [Page 72] Levante, which is the South-East of the Mediterra­nean, and is here call'd the Sea Wind, does some­times blow with so terrible an Impetuosity, that it drives back, or at least stops, the Waters of the Tiber at it's Mouth. And when it happens at the same time, that the melted Snow of the A­pennins swells the Torrents, which fall into that River, or the same effect is produc'd by continu­al Rains; the Conjunction of these various Ac­cidents must necessarily increase its Waters, and cause those Inundations, which may be term'd the Scourge of Rome, as the fiery Eruptions of Vesuvius are call'd the Scourge of Naples. There are Inscriptions fasten'd in several Places against the Walls to denote the Year and Height of the Inundations.

The Water of this River is always thick and yellowish; but if it be suffer'd to stand a whole night it grows clear and limpid, and they assur'd us also that 'tis very good. Nevertheless I per­ceive that some Persons in all Ages have been at prodigious charge to bring other Waters to Rome, in order to which they have diverted the course of Rivers, pierc'd Mountains, and built great Aqueducts. And they continue still to make new Attempts to compass the same de­sign. The Aqua Felice was twenty Miles di­stant from Rome, and cost Pope Sixtus the V. near four hundred thousand Crowns to bring it thither. And 'tis probable thatPaulus V. Pont. Max. aquam in agro Braccinensi saluberrimis [...] fontibus colle­ctam, Veteribus aquae Alseatinae ductibus restitutis, novisque additis, XXXV. ab Urbe Milliario duxit. An. Dom. 1612. Pontificatus sui septimo. Fountain of Montorio cost a great deal more; since its Wa­ters are brought from a much greater distance.

[Page 73]Since I have mention'd the Montorio, I will add some other Remarks concerning it. There is to be seen on the high Altar of the Francis­can Church, that admirable Picture of the Trans­figuration which is the last Work and Master­piece of Raphael. And not far from hence they visit with great devotion, the Chapel which is built on the very same place where they believe St. Peter was crucify'd. In the middle of this Chappel they have made a deep hole where they affirm the Cross was fixt. You know what Platina and others have related that St. Peter desir'd to be crucify'd with his Head down-ward, not esteeming himself worthy to suffer in the same manner with Christ. The Picture of this Crucifixion is to be seen at St. Paul's at the three Fountains, by the hand of Guido: And in the same Church they show the Pillar, on which they pretend St. Paul was beheaded. This may serve to exercise the Wits of those Critics, who are lovers of such Curiosities, to show how a Man could be beheaded on a Pillar.

This Column puts me in mind of another, which we saw some days ago in the Cloyster of St. John de Lateran: 'Tis that on which St. Pe­ter's Cock crew. In the same place there is another, which was cleft asunder from top to bottom on the day of the Passion. They show also the Measure of Christ's Height, to which they pre­tend that never any Person was yet found exactly equal. And here they also keep the It is of Por­phyry, four foot long, and three bread.Stone on which Pilat's Soldiers cast lots for Christ's Garments; the Dice, they say, are at Ʋnbriatico in Calabria. I will not trouble you with a description of the Altar, that was pierc'd [Page 74] by a Host which flew out of the Hands of an Incredulous Person, nor of the other Curiosities that are to be seen under the Portico's of this Cloyster. But I cannot forbear telling you that I have seen the bor'd Chair, about which you desire to be imform'd, that was formerly made use of in the Ceremony instituted to prevent all doubts concerningAfter the Ex­amination of the Witnesses, they cry'd with a loud voice, [...] Mas nobis Dominus est. We have a Male Lord or Pope, Leo Calchond. —alta voice exclamabant Testiculos habet, dignus est Papali corona. —at nemo jam ad Pontificatum promo­vetur, qui suae Virilitatis, non dederit antea satis efficax testimonium. I. I. Boissard. They proclaim'd aloud, says that Author, He has Stones, and is worthy of the Papal Crown. But, adds he, none are now advanc'd to the Pontifical dignity, who have not already given sufficient Proofs of their Virility. the Pope's Sex. 'Tis a kind of arm'd Chair of one single Piece of Porphy­ry.

Whether the Reason and End of that search gave occasion to the ancient use of this Chair; or it was made only to put the Popes in mind that they were not Gods, but Men, and subject to all human infirmities; or whether that Cere­mony was ordain'd for both these ends together, as Platina seems to think, who speaks very obscure­ly on this occasion, is a Controversy which I am as willing as you, to leave undecided. But as for the She-Pope I am resolv'd to take another Course, and since you have given me a fair oc­casion to add some Reflexions to all that has been said, by so many different Persons on this subject, I must tell you freely, that I find not the least solidity either in your Objections, or any of those that have been rais'd by others against the Truth of this History.

[Page 75]'Tis true, some Protestant Authors have reje­cted it as a Fable, as well as the Roman Catholic Doctors of these last Ages: Whether the For­mer did really esteem it to be such, or were acted by a Spirit of Singularity, or a certain sort of Complaisance which might have been very well spar'd, I will not pretend to determine; but e­very Man will have his humor: And you must not blame me, if I am resolv'd to believe my own Eyes. Let us consider the matter of Fact then, and examin the Arguments on both sides, with all possible Brevity.

I cannot perceive the least shadow of a Rea­son, that should hinder us from ranking this Ad­venture among an infinite number of other ex­traordinary Events recorded in History, to which we cannot without Injustice refuse to give credit. We findBlondel ac­knowledges Se­venty one Greek and Latin, Cano­niz'd Writers and others. Seventy or Eighty Authors, who have at several times related the same thing. These Authors are Men of Sense, whom no conside­ration, either of Profit or Honour, could have prompted to make such a Declaration: Quite the contrary, the Interest of their Religion, and Fear of Punishment might have deter'd 'em from publishing that Adventure. What Folly then, or rather Madness must we suppose so many grave Authors to have been seiz'd with, which could intice 'em to invent a Fable of this na­ture, with all the Circumstances that attend it: And what Evidence or Authority can henceforth perswade us to believe that which we never saw.

I must acknowledg it to be my Opinion, that the aiery and humorous Wit of Incredulity ne­ver made a worse Figure than on this occasion.[Page 76] But you will perhaps tell me that they do not in­sist upon a bare Negation of the matter of Fact, but that they alledge several weighty Arguments to confirm their Opinion, which deserve to be considered, and that after a careful and serious Examination of the whole Controversie, they find reason to conclude that the History of the pretended She-Pope is an ill-contriv'd Fable.

Very well, Sir, I will hear these boasted Argu­ments, immediatly, and perhaps confute 'em too; but first give me leave to tell you, that when a matter of Fact which does not imply a Con­tradiction, is positively attested by sufficient Au­thority; we must not pretend to call the Truth of the History in question, meerly on the Score of certain Criticisms, on some intricate and not com­mon Passages in it. In the present case we pro­duce a multitude of Authors of undoubted Cre­dit, who confirm the Truth of our Assertion; and all your halfdifficulties can never invalidate the Testimony of so many credible Witnesses. The controversie must he decided by the force of Authorities; and whatever reluctancy you may have to confess your self foil'd, you must either quit the Cudgels or defend your self bet­ter.

The Question is not whether it would be an easy matter at this time of theWe must also consider the dif­ference of Times. That was an Age of Ignorance, Stupidity and Confusion. But the Times are al­ter'd; and men are not now so ea­sily bubbl'd as formerly. We live in an Age that is wonderfully improv'd in Craftiness and Subtlety; how lit­tle reason soever we have to boast of our Improve­ments in Probi­ty and Goodness. Day, to set the triple Crown on the Head of a disguis'd Wench. Without doubt such an Attempt wou'd be ridi­culous; and the Non-impossibility of the success, wou'd be an ill Argument to justify the Pru­dence of the Undertaker: But we must not rea­son concerning what is already past, as we do of that which is still to come. We daily see [Page 77] long Series's of extraordinary and unexpected Adventures, the truth of which we do not at all question, tho' none but a Mad-man would fancy himself able to atchieve such Enterprises.

'Tis certain then that the word Difficulty is e­quivocal; and that the Arguments that are groun­ded upon it, are for the most part meer So­phisms. There may be a great deal of Difficulty in the performance of a thing, and yet the very same thing may be sometimes easily done, and as easily believ'd after it is done.See afterwards page. The Switzer William Tell had reason to say it was a ve­ry difficult Task to shoot down with an Arrow, the Apple that was plac'd on the Head of his Child. Yet if we consider attentively the nature of the thing, we must acknowledge there was no reason to suppose that the motion of the Arrow should be guided to any other particular part, than to the Apple. Should I desire you to find out some simple Shepherdess, and to perswade her to take a Helmet and Sword, to ask of the King the supreme Command of an Army, and after­wards to fight and rout his Enemies, you wou'd be apt to imagin that I were either mad or had a design to abuse you. But if you call to mind the Story of theJoan of Arc, a poor Shepherdess of the Village of Damremy on the Meuse at the Age of 18. or 20. years, she was entrusted by Charles the VII. with the Com­mand of part of his Forces. She reliev'd Orleans, beat the English, reconquer'd Champaign, and caus'd the King to be solemnly inaugurated. See Mezeray in the Life of Charles the VII. Ann. 1429. Maid of Orleans, who was both a Shepherdess and a great General; you must change your Opinion, and own that the Possibi­lity of the thing is a sufficient Reason why you should not contradict the Truth of it.

All that has been said may be easily apply'd to our Popes; but without insisting longer on the Comparison, I challenge you to renounce all those shadows of Arguments which you ground on some pretended difficulties, if I can make it ap­pear [Page 78] that these difficulties are not unanswerable▪ and that the controverted Story is probable or [...] least possible.

Rid your Self I beseech you of your unju [...] Prejudices against the Capacity of the Female Sex. A thousand Examples of lllustrious Wo­men might suffice to convince us that it is only the want of that Education which we enjoy, that makes 'em seem incapable of the Manage­ment of Affairs; tho there were not other Rea­sons to force our Assent to so evident a Truth.

See afterwards pageLet not the Beardless Chin of Her Holiness perplex you: For a Beard has not always bee [...] thought a necessary Qualification for a Pope▪ And even the Papal Throne has been sometimes fill'd byBenedict the IX. was made Pope at the Age of ten years; some say eleven; and others twelve; but however 'tis certain that he was a Child; all agree that he was one of the most monstrous and abominable Creatures that ever liv'd in the World. John the XII (alias XIII) was also chosen Pope before he was eighteen years old. Youths that could not have been di­stinguish'd from Women by their Chins. Be­sides, you knowI might easily make a long Ca­talogue of Wo­men who have discharg'd all sorts of Offices, and have past for Men. Semiramis perform'd the Office of a King, in the Quality and Habit of a Man▪ and why might not our German Lady act the Pope under a like disguise. And what do you▪ or I know, whether they were not both of the number of those Virago's who have a Mascu­line meen, and are not destitute of Beards. S [...] long as your mind is full of the Idea of a Maid Young, Soft, Pleasant, Innocent, Fearful, without Knowledg and Experience, and Cloth'd as other Wo­men are, you will never be able to lay aside your Prejudices. But if instead of that young Ideot, you represent to your self some bold Virage, some CHRISTINA with a Masculine Voice and hairy Chin; some learned, witty and daring Creature dis­guis'dlike a Man, all your Prejudices will vanish, and you will quickly acquiesce in the Truth and Evidence of our History.Aristotle tells us that the Pro­phetess of Ca­ria in Asia mi­nor, were beard­ed Women. And after you [Page 79] have made these Suppositions which are certain­ly very reasonable, you will find it as easy to advance a Woman so qualifi'd to the Papal Chair, as a begging Vagabond, such as Adrian the IV. or a Swine-herd like Sixtus the V. And several o­ther Popes who have been rais'd to that Dignity from the lowest degree of Meanness.

But, you proceed, how can it seem probable that a Woman could so long hide her great Bel­ly, and at last be so much a Fool as to expose her self to the Danger of being deliver'd of a Child in the midst of a solemn Procession.

I answer, in the first place, that probable, or not probable 'tis all one to me, so long as the thing is Possible. But secondly, as to the first part of your Objection, I say, that a Woman may contrive several ways to prevent the Discovery of such a Secret, especially when she is general­ly believ'd to be a Man: And if any of your Friends should be troubl'd with a swelling in his Belly, would you presently imagin him to be with Child. In the third place, I shall offer two considerations in answer to what you alledge concerning the Imprudence of our Female Pope. The first is, that we sometimes meet with una­voidable Difficulties, through which we must force a passage over all the dangers that attend 'em. And the other is, that we have no rea­son to believe that she was come to the end of her ninth Month, when this Misfortune hap­pen'd. 'Tis not improbable that she was deli­ver'd before her due time, or at least the thing is possible; which being allow'd, she can neither be accus'd of Imprudence, nor we have any [Page 80] reason to wonder that she was able to conceal her great Belly.

If Chronological Difficulties a­mount to a suffi­cient Argument against the Ex­istence of Pope Joan: By the same reason we may conclude that several o­ther Popes are meer imaginary Names.But you tell me, that Chronologers do not agree in their calculations about the Time of this accident. 'Tis true they do not, and the rea­son of their difference is obvious. They who expunge our Popess's Name out of the Catalogue of Popes, are oblig'd dexterously to lengthen the Lives of her Predecessors to fill up the Breach which they have made. But as you have Chro­nological Supputations that are accomodated to your Opinion, so I have others that are agreea­ble to mine: And therefore our Controversy must be decided by other Arguments.

The Objection which is grounded on her Voyage to Athens, under pretence that the Stu­dies that were prosecuted there at that time, were not sutable to a young Scholar, is a meer frivo­lous Cavil. For in the first place you suppose without the least proof, that she was a young Scholar at the time of her Voyage; and what reason can you alledge, why I may not suppose that she was old enough to be admitted among the Hearers of the Athenian Philosophers, or other Professors in that Academy? But secondly, I ob­serve that some of those Authors who relate this History, carry her straight to Rome without men­tioning Athens.

You will perhaps look upon this Concession as very advantageous to your Party, and reproach me with the Contradictions of my Authors; but I can easily ward this Blow. Consider, I beseech you, that the same Action as to the Main is not always related with the same Circumstances; and even Sacred History might furnish me with seve­ral [Page 81] Instances of such Variations. I acknowledg indeed, that we ought not to rely upon the Te­stimony of a Historian who contradicts himself: but tho we should observe some circumstantial differences between two Authors who relate the same thing, but live perhaps in different Coun­tries; we could not in Justice give these Varia­tions the ignominious name of Contradictions, but only conclude that they were occasion'd either by forgetfulness, want of necessary Intelligence, or some Ambiguity in the Expression. Besides, if there had been a Combination of false Wit­nesses to cheat the World, and if they had de­liberately invented the pretended Fable of Pope Joan; they would certainly have taken better measures, and agree'd upon the Circumstances of the story. 'Tis plain then, that such petty Variations do not destroy, nor so much as wea­ken the Credit of a Relation. A remarkable E­vent makes a great noise in the World, and Men both talk and write variously concerning it.

Your last and (in your opinion) strongest Ar­gument is grounded on the silence of those Au­thors, who were Joan's Cotemporaries: This seems to make a great Impression upon you; but you must give me leave to tell you, that it is as weak and trifling as the rest.A Scottish Monk who died in the Abby of Fuld in Germa­ny, about the 58. year of his Age, 1086. Bellarmin gives him the Chara­cter of a diligent Writer. Marianus Scotus A very learn'd Monk of the Ab­by of Gem­blours, who dy'd about the begin­ning of the Twelfth Age. Sigebert, and some other moreSeveral Au­thors related this History be­fore Marianus Scotus. antient Authors who relate this History, five or six hundred years ago, did probably take it from those who wrote before 'em;Anastasius, call'd the Bibli­othecary, was a Roman Abbot, a Man of learn­ing and great Merit: And Pope Joan's Cotemporary. for it is not at all credible that they invented it, for the Reasons that I alledg'd be­fore. But besides, your Argument is grounded upon a false supposition; for the Editions of [Page 82] Anastasius that have escap'd Gelding give an ex­act account of the whole story. And I must likewise add, that tho we could not find the least mention of a Female Pope in any Author of the Ninth Age, you could not from thence infer, that they were all silent in this case. For before the Invention of Printing, the Monks left no means unessay'd to suppress all that seem'd contrary to their Interest; and several other Accidents have occasion'd the loss of a great number of good Books.

Besides, we have no reason to wonder that a History of this Nature was kept very secret: since Fear and Shame were Motives strong e­nough to impose silence on the Writers of that Age. There are some things which are never divulg'd till after a certain time; Some Princes that are detested by all the World, have been flatter'd during the Age in which they liv'd, whom Posterity, not aw'd by Fear, hasSee the Begin­ning of the next Letter. painted forth in the most hideous colours.

After all, I cannot conceive what should make the Church of Rome so unwilling to own her She Pope, as if Monstruous Popes were Rarities. I am sure Cardinal Baronius makes no scruple to bestow that Title on a great number of 'em. And as for Vacancies, there have been some that have lasted longer than the whole time of her Ponti­ficate: You know there was an Interregnum of almost nine Years between Nicholas the I. and Adrian the II. Nor can they want a remedy for the Nullity of Administration; for the Mini­sters of the Court of Rome have Salves for all Sores.

[Page 83]But, all things being duly consider'd, I would willingly know, what it is in this Adventure that appears so strange and surprizing. Is there any Contradiction or Prodigy in it, or even any thing that is rare and wonderful? As for me, I assure you, I can perceive nothing but what is very natural and easy. If, as I intimated before, instead of an innocent Agnes, you suppose a Crea­ture, whose Manners, Capacity, Humour and outward Behaviour represent a Man; I cannot imagin upon what grounds you can raise the least shadow of an Objection.

If I thought it necessary to imitate Henry Ste­phen in the Introduction to his Apology for He­rodotus, I could quickly find a sufficient number of stranger Events, than that for which I contend, to fill a whole Volume. But without wandring from the Subject of our Controversy, or leaving the Holy See, tell me, I pray you, whether any Person that were a perfect stranger to the Histo­ry of the Popes, would suffer himself to be per­swaded, that these Gentlemen retaining still the quality of Priests, have notwithstanding rais'd themselves to the Empire of the Christian World, and to the Power, and even the Practice,These are all Historical Instances of un­question'd Truth. of distributing Scepters, treading Crown'd Heads under their Feet, inflicting ignominious Punishments upon 'em, as on guilty Slaves, and LEWIS, the Great Subverter of the World, Who spar'd no Crime to please his frantic Humor; A wicked Son, and an unnatural Father, An unjust Brother, and a Faithless Husband, A thankless Master, and a dangerous Friend; Reign'd without Counsel, Piety, or Justice, Fraud was his Sport, his Vertue was a Cheat, &c. Mezeray, concerning Lewis XI. [Page 84] driving 'em out of their Kingdoms by the Ter­ror of their Anathema's? Or could our suppos'd Stranger, d'ye think, be made to believe that some extravagant Flatterers have presum'd to ascribe to those Priests a Power to turn Virtue into Vice, and Vice into Virtue; to excommu­nicate Angels, and to dispense with the Aposto­lical and Evangelical Laws? I would also desire you to employ some hours in perusing the old Legends, for the new ones are not so curious; and there you will find a numerous Medley of Stories related as sacred Truths, that will not only appear incredible to you, but such mon­strous Fables, as Posterity will hardly be in­duc'd to believe that ever any persons in the World were capable of inventing and writing 'em.

I shall add but one word more: When People in after-Ages shall read the History of what has lately happen'd to the Protestants of France, written by a Maimbourg, a Varillas, a Bishop of Meaux, and others of that Gang, who strive to out do one-another, in exalting the sweetness and extream Moderation with which those unfortunate Creatures were us'd in that Execution; can it be suppos'd that these future Readers will believe, or even imagine that there are no Cruelties so barbarous which these poor Protestants did not suffer?

Prostat Liber palam ac publice hic (scilicet P [...] ­risiis) impressus, & hodie ut olim venalis: Taxa Camerae seu Cancellariae Apostolicae, quibus plus scelerum discas licet, quam in omnibus vitiorum Symmystis & Summariis. Claud. Esp. Ep. [...]d Tit. c. 1.I cannot forbear mentioning another incre­dible Prodigy, which just now comes into my Mind. I mean the Book entitul'd, The Rates of [Page 85] the Apostolical Chamber. Who could have be­liev'd that the Vicar of Christ would com­pose a List of enormous Crimes and unheard of Impieties, with the Price ofGaude Mater nostra Roma, quoniam aperi­untur Cataractae Thesaurorum in terra, ut ad te confluant rivi & aggeres num­morum in mag­na copia. Lae­tare super ini­quitate filiorum hominum, quoniam in recompensationem tantorum malorum, datur tibi pre­tium. Jocundare super adjutrice tua discordia, quia erupit de puteo inferna­lis abyssi, ut accumulentur tibi multa pecuniarum praemia. Habes quod sem­per sitisti, decanta canticum, quia per malitiam hominum▪ non per tuam Religionem orbem vicisti, Ad te trahit, non ipsorum devotio aut pura con­scientia, sed scelerum multiplicium perpetratio, & litium decisio pretio com­parata. Cour. Abbas Ursp. —Venalia nobis Templa, Sacerdotes, Altaria, Sacra, Coronae, Ignis, Thura, Preces, Coelum est venale, Deusque, B. Mant. Absolutions to be granted for 'em? I bought this Book three days ago in Rome. 'Tis true, they are asham'd of it, they have endeavour'd by all means to suppress it, and it is inserted in the Index Ex­purgatorius of the Council of Trent; but the Blot will never be wip'd off; and after all these Gri­maces, Dispensations are sold here daily.

Before I bid adieu to Pope Joan, I must not forget to put you in mind of whatMezeray in the Life of Charles the Bald. Mezeray writes concerning the Story that is the subject of our Controversie, That this Opinion was generally receiv'd as an undoubted Truth, for the space of Five hundred years.

If you desire to know the reason why the Use of this Chair is laid aside, the following Epigram byJohn, Bishop of the Five Churches in Pannonia, or Hungary. Pannonius will satisfie your Curio­sity.

Non poterat quisquam reserantes Aetherae Claves
Non exploratis sumere Testiculis.
Cur igitur nostro mos hic nunc tempore cessat?
Ante probat quod se quilibet esse Marem.

[Page 86]Or this:

Les petits Enfans qu'ils font,
Sont preuves assez r [...]é [...]es,
Que les Saints Peres ne sont
Ni Coquatres, ni Femelles.

The Sence of both which may be thus ex­press'd;

Of old, e're Popes had learn'd to kiss,
None were (then sure they kept no Miss)
Made Porters of the Bow'r of Bliss,
Till Rev'rend Fist had grop'd 'em:
But now, thank Heav'n, we've surer Signs;
For th' Offspring of their Sacred Loins
Displays the Vigor of their Groins
Before they claim the Popedom.

Pasquin's Verses on Paul II, and Innocent VIII, are much to the same purpose:

Pontificis
Paul II.
Pauli Testes ne Roma requiras;
Filia quam genuit sat docet esset marem.
Octo
Innocent VIII.
Nocens Pueros genuit, totidem (que) Puellas
Hunc merito poteris dtcere, Roma Patrem.

The Church ofSo call'd from Plan. Lateranus, a Roman Lord, who had Gar­dens in this place. He was kill'd by Nero's Order, after he had been nominated to the Consulship. St. John de Lateran is very large and magnificent; She assumes also the lofty Title of theThese two Verses are engrav'd on the Portico; Dogmate Papali, datur simul Imperiali, Ut sim Cunctarum Mater, Caput Ecclesiarum. Head and Mother of all [Page 87] Churches. Sixtus V. built a vast Palace near this ChurchI hear that it was since made a Hospital., which was never inhabited.

Near adjoyning to that Building is the Lodge call'd Sancta Scala, from the 28 Steps that were transported thither. They are of white Mar­ble, very much worn; and they pretend that these are the Steps by which Christ ascended to Pilate's House. At present none are permit­ted to ascend 'em butThere are two little Stairs, one on each side, by which those that please are per­mitted to walk up to the Sancta Sanctorum. kneeling, which cannot be done without trouble; but to make amends for that, they obtain at every Step Indulgences for Three years and as many times Forty days. The Chapel at the top of the Stairs is call'd Sancta Sanctorum, or the Holy of Holies, from an Image of Christ, which, they believe, was made by Angels, and is religiously preserv'd there. I have seen this Piece, and can assure you, it is very ugly and ill shap'd. Women never enter into this most Holy place.

In our return from the Sancta Scala, we pass'd by St. Mary major, which is a vast and magnifi­cent Structure A certain Roman Lord full of Devotion to the Virgin, being one night warn'd in a Dream to go next morning to Mount Esqui­lin, and there to build a Church to the honour of the Mother of God, in the place where he should find Snow; and Pope Liberius having also had the same Vision, they walk'd together to the place appointed. It was on the Fifth of Ann. 355. August, yet they found Snow, which they re­mov'd with their own Hands, and immediately laid the Foundations of this Temple.

You never saw any thing more rich or finely built than the Chapels ofDominick Fontana was the Architect of this Chapel We were inform'd, that it cost Seven hun­dred thousand Roman Crowns Sixtus V. and Paul V. in the last of which they preserve the [Page 88] Manger of Bethlehem, and an Image of the Vir­gin made by St. Luke, about which they have several times found Angels singing Litanies.

Not far from thence is the little Church of St. Anthony, whither all the Horses of the City are brought on that Saint's Festival, to receive a Benediction at the Door of the Church.

Castel-Gandol­fo is 16 miles distant from Rome.But to change the Subject of my Observa­tions, that their Variety at least may please you, I shall in the next place give you some account of our Voyage to Castel-Gandolfo. This House has nothing remarkable in it, tho' it belongs to the Pope. Cardinal H— has an Apartment in it; and sometimes goes to pass a few days there, where he may be free from the Encum­brances of the Ceremonies of Rome, than which nothing can be more troublesome to a Cardinal.

During our short stay at this place, we took several turns into the adjacent Country: About a mile from the Castle we visited the little Town of Albano, ALBANO. where the famous City of Alba was formerly seated, extending, accord­ing to the common Belief, from the brink of the Lake of Castle Gandolfo to the new Town of Albano; but this Opinion is controverted, and I will not undertake to decide the Question.

We saw at Albano a kind of Tower or ruin'd Mausoleum, commonly call'd the Tomb of Ascanius; but this Opinion seems only to be grounded on a very uncertain Tradition.

But I may speak more positively of another ancient Tomb near Albano, which is generally believ'd to be the Sepulchre of the Two Horatii, [Page 89] and the Three Curiatii. 'Tis plain, that the Five Pyramids which are on the Tomb have given occasion to this Opinion; but this Reason is of no force, for Titus Livius expresly affirms, That the Sepulchres of these Heroes were erected in the same places where each of 'em expir'd; those of the Horatii towards Alba, and those of the Curiatii nearer Rome.

The Lake of Castel Gandolfo is, as we were inform'd, six or seven miles in compass; and the rising Grounds which environ it form an exact Amphitheater. There are two parts where the depth of the Lake cannot be sounded; but, which is more wonderful, its Waters do from time to time suddenly swell, and rise to the very top of the Banks, which doubtless proceeds from its communication with subterraneous Gulfs, that disgorge themselves into it.

Half a mile from thence, near Gensana, we saw another little Lake, call'd by the Moderns Lago di Nemi, and by the Ancients Speculum Dianae, from a Grove and Temple consecrated to that Goddess, which were formerly on the Bank of this Lake.

Between Albano and Castel-Gandolfo, we ob­serv'd the Ruins of an Amphitheater, and were surpriz'd to behold certain great Trees among 'em, that had formerly taken root, and, in a wonderful manner, wrought a passage for them­selves between the best cemented Stones and Bricks, which they have cleft asunder, and pierc'd the Walls, where they are grown great in spite of all opposition.

[Page 90] Mittit praecipuos nernoralis Aricia Porros. Mart.The whole Country about Albano and Gensana is fruitful; the Wine especially and Fruits which it produces are much esteem'd. The Inhabi­tants do still observe their ancient Custom of cultivating Leeks and Onions with a great deal of care.

Since I have already entertain'd you with an account of the Houses of Pleasure in the Neigh­bourhood of Rome, I will also add some Obser­vations concerning the chief Palaces in the City. But I will not insist long upon 'em, that I may avoid telling you what you know already.

The Catalogue of the Antiquities which we saw at the Palace Justiniani, amounts to 1867, and that of the rare Pictures to 638. Nero's Head, the Minerva, Venus coming out of a Bath, and the three little Cupids sleeping and leaning upon one another, are the most esteem'd Pie­ces.

Cardinal Chigi's Palace is one of the finest Houses in Rome. All the Gates are overlaid with Antique green Marble. Among the Sta­tues, the two Venus's, Marsias flay'd, and the dy­ing Gladiator, are chiefly remarkable.

Ant. de St. Gallo begun it.You have heard, without doubt, that Michael Angelo was the principal Architect of theTertius has Paulus struxit Farnesius aedes, Quarum forma oculos ponitur ante tuos. Aspicis immensos, Hospes, qui frontis honores, His similes dices, Roma nec Orbis habet. Far­nesian Palace. The Front of this beautiful Structure is 180 foot broad, and 90 foot high. The Gates, Corner-pieces, Cross-bars of the Windows, Cornish, and all the principal Stones [Page 91] were taken from the Colliseum. I shall take this occasion to tell you, that a great part of this admirable Monument has by such means been destroy'd. The great Palace of the Chancery, as well asSt. Lawrence in Damaso. St. Lawrence's Church, is almost wholly built with its spoils: and even some parts of the City-walls have been repair'd with the same. Instead of repairing and preserving those precious Remainders of Antiquity after the Example of Sixtus V, to whom Rome owes the greatest part of its beauty, some brutish per­sons endeavour to compleat the destruction of its Ornaments. Innocent VIII. broke the Arch of Gordian to build a Church. Alexander VI. de­molish'd the beautiful Pyramid of Scipio, to pave the Streets with its Stones. The Marble Steps which serve for an Ascent to the Church of Ara Coeli, were taken from a Temple of Romulus. St. Blaise's Church was erected out of the spoils of a Temple of Neptune; St. Nicholas's of the Soul is built out of the Ruines of the Circus agonalis; and I might easily add several other Instances.

All the World knows, that the Farnesian It is the Work of Glycon a Grecian Sculptor. [...]. Her­cules and Bull are two famous Pieces. The Gal­lery by Caracchio, the Hall by Salviati, the Venus and the Adonis by Titian, are also universally known.

The Library in the Palace Altieri is numerous and in good order. The Stair-case is very fine:At the foot of the Stair there is a Statue of a Captive King, which was found four or five hun­dred years ago in the Place call'd Navona. Spon. The Apartments are great, and adorn'd with rare Pictures and magnificent Furniture. Here I observ'd a Looking glass of Crystal of the Rock ten inches long, and six broad, in a golden Frame, cover'd all over with Jewels of great value.

[Page 92]They also magnified extreamly a little Earthen Dish, which is carefully preserv'd in a very rich Frame, as being painted by Raphael. It is of the same kind of work with those Vessels at Loretto, which I mention'd before. And I saw some more of 'em here that are preserv'd with equal Esteem, or rather Veneration.

Perhaps I should not have had the Courage singly to attack that common Prejudice that puts the Reputation of Raphael in a Threepenny Dish, which he never saw or touch'd; tho' I am pretty well acquainted with the History of that Artist, and had several good Arguments to confute that Opinion. But having had the Fortune to discourse with the famous Carlo Ma­rotti on the same subject, I dare confidently as­sure you, that Raphael never drew a stroke on any of these Dishes, notwithstanding the great value that is set upon 'em, and the common­ness of the contrary Opinion. I acknowledge indeed, that these Pictures have some resem­blance to Raphael's way of working, from which we may probably infer, that either they were made by some of his Scholars, or in imitation of some of his Designs.

The Palace con­taons Four thou­sand Chambers.The Palace Barberini, call'd the Palaestrin, is reputed to be the greatest in Rome next to the Vatican. Among its Antiquities, which are very numerous, the little Diana of Oriental Alabaster is particularly esteem'd. The Tullia, Daughter of Servius Tullius, and Wife of Tarquin the proud, is a very rare Piece, and said to be the only one of the kind in Rome. I observ'd also the God Osiris, with his Hawk's Head on a Human Body, which was found with the Obelisk of Mi­nerva, [Page 93] under the Ruins of Isis's Temple.

In this Palace also I took notice of a Marble Bust of Pope Ʋrban VIII, which was made by a blind man, and yet is the best Representation we have of that Pope.

The other Palace Barberini towards the four Fountains, is a heap of Rarities, Antiquities, and all sorts of Curiosities. They assur'd us, that its Library contains Forty thousand Volumes.

The first Halls of the Palace Colonna are adorn'd with the Pictures ofAdrian I. and Martin V, two of the honestest Popes that ever fill'd the Chair. two Popes, nineteen Cardinals, and fifty four Generals of Armies, all descended from the noble and an­cient House of the Colonna's. There are in the same Palace nine great Apartments, Eight thousand original Pictures, a little Arsenal, Busts, antique Basso-relievo's, Statues, and a great deal of rich Furniture.

I will not insist upon the Architecture of these Palaces, for I'm perswaded I cannot inform you of any thing of that nature, with which you are not already acquainted. I think I told you before, that 'tis much more usual in this place to cover the Houses with ridg'd than flat Roofs, tho' people generally differ much in their Opinions concerning these two ways of building. Those sharp-pointed Roofs that are almost equal in heighth to the Body of the Edifice, are in some measure contrary to Rea­son, by destroying the symmetry and decent proportion that ought to be between the whole, or at least the main body, and the other less remarkable parts of a Building. But, since you are desirous to know my Opinion, I must [Page 94] tell you, that I prefer the middle way found out by our famous Mansard before your flat Roofs.

Besides, you must give me leave to entreat you to lay aside that partial Opinion you seem to have of the Roman Architecture in gene­ral. It must be acknowledg'd, that there are in this place very beautiful Structures, both ancient and modern, but you must not imagine that every thing is in perfection; for here, as well as in other places, there are certain modes of Building peculiar to the Age and Country, and not at all conformable either to the Regu­larity or Magnificence of Architecture.

I thank you for your excellent Remarks on those admirable Egyptian Obelisks, which are at present to be seen in this City, and ought, in my Opinion, to be reckon'd among its noblest Ornaments. I have learn'd many cu­rious things from what you have written on this subject, and therefore am oblig'd in Justice to answer the Questions you propose, and at the same time to give the best solution I can of some of your Doubts concerning those rare Mo­numents.

All the Obelisks in Rome are quadrangular, and end in a sharp point. They resembl'd the Rays of the Sun, that great Divinity ador'd by the Egyptians under the name of Osiris, and esteem'd by 'em to be the Habitation of Beings, Genius's, and the Souls of the Ʋniverse. Their Angles respected the four Corners of the World, and denoted the four Elements.

[Page 95]The Hieroglyphic Characters on these Obelisks have been suppos'd by some to contain the Elogies of some Princes, or Histories of certain memorable Transactions; and they believe that these Monuments were erected by the Egypti­ans, both to serve for Ornaments, and to ho­nour the Heroes of their Nation: but those who have penetrated furthest into these Myste­ries, have, in my opinion, demonstrated clearly, that these were open Books, which expos'd to the Eyes of the publick the Secrets of their Divinity, Astrology, Metaphysics, Magic, and all the other Sciences that were cultivated by the Egyptians. 'Tis certain, that the Vulgar was not capable of unriddling the Mysteries of these Oracles; but then, as well as now, the unthink­ing part of Mankind amus'd themselves with Shadows and Obscurities.

All these Obelisks are of Granite, which is a kind of very hard and lasting Marble, and able, as they assur'd us, to resist the Fire for a considerable time.There is not one of 'em that was made at Rome. Without doubt the solidity of the Matter was one of the Reasons that recommended it to their choice. The Obelisk of St. John de Lateran has subsisted Three thousand years; and that ofWe were in­form'd, that it weighs 956148 pounds. St. Peter is Nine hundred years older. The first is the greatest of 'em all, being 108 foot high, without reckoning either the Pedestal or the Cross. There are also some Granites of Corsica in this place, but they have not so fine a Grain as those of Egypt. I am,

SIR,
Your &c.

LETTER XXVI.

SIR,

YEsterday, upon a second perusal of your Letter, I observ'd a marginal Note that I had not taken notice of before, in which you desire me to consider what Mr. Chevreau has written concerning Pope Joan, in the second part of his History of the World, and to give you an account of my Thoughts of his Arguments against that Story, which makes me conclude that you have a good opinion of 'em. How­ever, Sir, I am ready to obey you; for I have read Mr, Chevreau's Book, and have made some Reflexions on that passage in it.

In the first place he acknowledges, that a considerable number of famous Authors have men­tion'd that Story, and positively asserted the Truth of it. Now, according to the known Rules of Justice and Reason, this concession alone is suffi­cient to decide the Controversie; for when se­veral Witnesses of unquestion'd credit do una­nimously attest a Matter of Fact, we are oblig'd to believe their Testimony, if the thing be possible, and we have no Evidence to the contrary, more especially if these Witnesses speak against their own Interest.

These Authorities, says Mr. Chevreau, have made a strong impression on credulous Minds▪ but the more judicious and cautious part of Mankind, relying on [Page 97] the Silence of several other Authors, have examin'd and rejected this Fable. This is certainly a very strange and surprizing Maxim, Seventy or Eighty Men, who cannot with the least appearance of Justice be suspected of a Design to cheat the World, who were all of the Roman Religion, almost all Clergy men, and even some of 'em Canoniz'd Saints; all these Authors, I say,This is ac­knowledg'd by the Roman Ca­tholicks. do positively affirm, That there was a Female Pope. Other Authors make no mention of her; and the Silence of these must invalidate the Testi­mony of the former. May we not probably suppose, thatThat Pope was made a Cardi­nal at the age of fourteen years. It is agreed by all Histori­ans, that he was an impious Per­son. Leo X. reason'd after the same manner, when he call'd the Gospel The Fable of Christ. Some Authors bear witness to the History of our Saviour; others who liv'd at the same time do not mention it, and that ju­dicious and cautious Pope relying on the Silence of so many Writers, examin'd and rejected the Story. I will not lose time to demonstrate the weakness of this way of reasoning, it destroys it self, and does not merit a serious confutation.

Mr. Chevreau assures us, that Anastasius the Bibliothecary makes no mention of our Popess; which is also the great and boasted Argument of Onu­phrius, but they are both mistaken; you may consult Mr. le Sueur's Ecclesiastical History, and Colomesius's Historical Miscellanies, where you will find an Anastasius of the French King's Library, containing an exact account of the Female Pope; besides two other Copies ofMar. Freher and Salmasius saw these Copies: nor does Blondel disown 'em. the same Author at Augsburg, and one at Millain, which relate the same Story. These Books will also inform you how the Jesuits of Mentz having suffer'd only two Copies to be wrought off, conform to [Page 98] the Original, had the Impudence toThis they themselves con­fess to be true. suppress all that displeas'd 'em in the rest of this Edi­tion.

Anastasius wrote the Lives of the Popes to Nicho­las [...], who suc­ceeded Benedict the Third.Before I take leave of Anastasius, I must en­treat you seriously to weigh the Authority of his Testimony. He was a man of Learning, he liv'd at Rome, and was co-temporary with our Popess: He speaks as an Eye-witness, and two words of such an Author are sufficient to destroy all the frivolous Objections and little Shifts of those who contradict the Truth of this Relation.

In the next place I shall proceed to consider Mr. Chevreau's Reflexions onM. Polonus flourish'd in the middle of the Thirteenth Age. Martinus Polonus, or the Polander, Archbishop of Cosenza, and Penitentiary toSome Authors write, That he discharg'd the same Office un­der Nicholas III. Innocent IV. M. Chevreau calls him a silly Monk, and alledges three or four poor Reasons to prove his Simplicity. Since that Monk, says he, in his Treatise of the Wonders of Rome, mistakes the Gate of Ostia, or of St. Paul, and of Capena, and St. Sebastian, for another which he calls Collina, instead (as we may probably suppose) of Collatina or Pinciana, the Pantheon for a Temple of Cybele, and the Am­phitheater for a Temple of the Sun, we may the more easily forgive that Blunder in his History, where he mistakes a Pope for a Popess. In answer to these Reflexions, I say in the general, That tho' M. Polonus were really guilty of some Errors in giving an account of things of little impor­tance, or in explaining some hard and obscure Questions, we could not from thence infer, that he had given us a false Relation of the Fe­male Pontiff. He took one Gate for another, and therefore he took a Pope for a Popess, is rather a [Page 99] Jest than an Argument; or, if it must pass for an Argument, it may be easily retorted upon its Author; for, I may with equal reason affirm, that if Mr. Chevreau's Reflexions on M. Polonus be false and groundless, therefore all his Argu­ments against the Story that is the subject of our Controversie are meer Sophisms, and he mistakes a Popess for a Pope. That the Antece­dent is certainly true, will appear from the fol­lowing Considerations.

(1.) 'Tis plain, that Mr. Chevreau knew not that there was a Gate call'd Collina, when he wrote, That Polonus takes the Gate of Ostia, and the Gate Capena for another which he call'd Collina▪ instead of Collatina or Pinciana. But 'tis certain that Collina was the name of a Gate as well as Collatina; it took its name à Colle Quirinali, and is mention'd by Ovid;

Templa frequentari Collinae proxima portae
Nunc decet; —

Fast. 4.

This Gate is now call'd Salara.

(2.) The Gate Collatina, so call'd from the Town of Collatium, is different from the Pinciana, as F. Nardin has clearly demonstrated.

(3.) Mr. Chevreau had no reason to find fault with Martinus Polonus, for calling the Pantheon a Temple of Cybele, since several learned Anti­quaries are of the same opinion. 'Tis true in­deed, and I think I have already told you, that Authors are not agreed in their Conjectures concerning the Denomination of the Pantheon: [Page 100] But there are many who believe that it was so call'd because it was consecrated by Agrippa to Jupiter Jupiter the Avenger., and to'Tis not alto­gether improba­ble that Cybele her self was a multiply'd Dei­ty: for she was worship'd under the several Names of Ops, Rhea, Vesta, Berecynthia, Dindymena, Tellus, Magna Pales, and Magna Mater. She was also call'd Natura rorum Parens. Cybele the Mother of all the Gods. However, since Opinions are divided, and the Question is at the best problematical, Polonus cannot without Injustice be accus'd of an Error, for what he has written on this sub­ject.

(4) Mr. Chevreau is not easily to be under­stood, when he talks of the Roman Amphitheater, for there were several Amphitheaters in that City, and the Ruins of some of 'em are still remaining. I suppose he meant the great Amphitheater call'd Colliseum, which was built by Vespasian, and dedicated by Titus.

(5.) I confess I have not read Polonus's Trea­tise concerning Rome, but 'tis very improbable that he took the Colliseum for a Temple. This is certainly too great an Absurdity to be be­liev'd, and I vehemently suspect that some of his Expressions are misunderstood. He might indeed speak of a Temple of the Sun near that Amphitheater, but he could not possibly imagin, that the Colliseum was its self a Temple.

I must further tell you, that what you relate concerning a Manuscript Polonus which you have seen, where this Story is written on the margin, and by another Hand, does not at all reach the bottom of our Controversie. You may easily conceive that some interess'd Person having geld­ed our Author, that Defect was afterwards sup­ply'd [Page 101] by a more equitable Hand: And thus your Manuscript is only a particular Instance, from which nothing can be concluded against the Credit of other Copies. If some person should think fit to restore the History of our Popess, by way of a marginal Note, in the mu­tilated Copies of Anastasius, this could not de­stroy the Authority of those Originals where the same Relation is to be found in the Text. Thus we may reasonably suppose, that the Story of Pope Joan was left out in your Manuscript, and afterwards restor'd by another Hand: And even Bellarmin confesses, that Martinus Polonus wrote the History of our Popess.

But to return to Mr. Chevreau. You may observe how much he was puzzl'd to give some probable account of the first occasion of that Controversie, since he is forc'd to have recourse to the Opinion, or rather Evasion, of Onuphrius, tho' he conceals the Name of the Author. He pretends that Pope John the Twelfth had a Con­cubine call'd Joan, who was his Favourite, and govern'd him so absolutely, that he was usually nick-nam'd Joan. Besides, he goes further than Onuphrius; for whereas that Author speaks only conjecturally, Mr. Chevreau asserts positively, That John the Twelfth was call'd Pope Joan, because of the blind Complaisance that he had for his Concu­bine. Onuphrius's Conjectures are meer airy No­tions and groundless Suspicions: and Mr. Chev­reau's Assertion is rash and precarious; he can produce no other Argument to prove, that John the Twelfth was call'd Pope Joan, but his own bare Authority; and neither Onuphrius nor he [Page 102] can make it appear, thatPlatina calls him the most pernicious and infamous of all the Popes that preceeded him. Some Writers relate, adds that Author, That he was slain in the act of Adultery. ever Pope John had such a Concubine. 'Tis true, they both cite Luitprand to confirm their Hypothesis, but they cite him falsly. The Name of the Widow men­tion'd by Mr. Chevreau was Ann, not Joan; and without doubt he was ignorant that our illustri­ousM du Plessis Mornay. Du Plessis had already discover'd the For­gery which Onuphrius made use of to strengthen his Conjecture. Besides, it may be observ'd, that this Pope John was advanc'd to the Papal Chair a hundred years after Pope Joan, which is another Absurdity that attends Mr. Chevreau's Opinion.

He adds, That the Story of the pretended bor'd Chair is not better grounded, and that the Chair is not bor'd. But, by his leave, I have seen it more than once, and if I may believe my own Eyes, it is bor'd, and that after the usual manner of Close stools. I have already told you that it is of Porphyry; but there are two of 'em, one broken and the other entire, and they are both made of the same matter, and after the same fashion.

Platina affirms positively, afterLaonicus Chalcondylas an Athenian, who flourish'd about the middle of the Fifteenth Age. Chalcondylas and other approv'd Authors, That the new elected Pope is plac'd on the bor'd Chair, and that the youngest Deacon thrusts his Hand thro' the hole, to feel whether he has the surest marks of Virility. Such, probably, was the primitive use of this Chair; for, what Reason could have prompted these Authors to invent such a Fable? 'Tis true, this Custom was by degrees laid aside, but they continu'd for some time to set the Popes on the same Chair, to put 'em in mind, [Page]

The Groping Chair

Vol. 2. Pag. 102

[Page] [Page 103] as Mr. Chevreau affirms after Fauchet, that they were still subject to the common Infirmities of Humane Nature. However, I will not insist longer upon this subject, since 'tis altogether foreign to our Controversie.

To proceed to Mr. Chevreau's last Argument, he tells us, That the Fathers of the Council of Soissons having written to Pope Leo the Fourth, to desire his Approbation, their Deputies found that he was deceas'd before their arrival, and return'd the same year from Rome to France, with the Subscri­ption of his Successor Benedict III. You have seen with how little certainty this Author has pro­ceeded hitherto; and his End is suitable to his Beginning, He mentions aIt was the se­cond Council or Conventicle held at that place, which Nicholas the First would never be per­swaded to ap­prove. Council of Soissons, without any other Mark of Distinction: He tells us a Story without the least proof, and, which is worse, he cannot prove it; for we must not rely upon the Testimonies of Sirmond and Binius, or on the Authority of the late Editions of the Councils. To prove his Asser­tion, especially in such a doubtful Case as this, he ought to produce Manuscripts of uncontroverted Antiquity and Credit; but we must excuse him, since his Story is not to be found in such au­thentick Originals. If he could certainly fix the time of the departure of that Council's Envoys to Pope Leo, and of their return after his death, the duration of his Pontificate might be also determin'd, which none of all those who deny the Story of Pope Joan have hitherto been able to do. This is an important Remark, and deserves to be consider'd with attention. Onu­phrius, and the rest of his Party, are forc'd to lengthen the Lives of the Popes that preceeded [Page 104] and follow'd our Popess, and by confounding the order of their succession, have thrown themselves into inextricable Labyrinths. Bellar­min, one of the most subtle and dextrous of all these Chronologers, in his Treatise of Ecclesia­stical Writers, extends the time of Nicholas the First's Pontificate toPlatina com­putes Seven years, Nine months, and Thirteen days. Ten years, which in his Chronology he reduces to Nine years and a half. Examine all these Authors, and you shall not find one who does not contradict himself, so difficult a Task it is to counterfeit the Truth. Bellarmin has not forgot to calculate the time of the Pontificate of any one Pope, but only of Leo IV, which is a shrewd sign that he was strangely puzzl'd how to dispose of the Two years during which the Papal Throne was fill'd by Joan, aliàs John VIII. But this is not the only Inconvenience with which his Opinion is clogg'd; for he and his Companions, by ex­punging that Woman out of the Catalogue of Popes, have entangl'd themselves in new Diffi­culties. And whereas they who make Truth the Standard of their Relations reckon four and twenty Popes that bore the Name of John, the rest count only twenty three, and by so doing confound the whole History. Thus their John the Twelfth, whom we mention'd before, is John the Thirteenth, according to Platina, Or Bartholo­mew Caranza, call'd also Mi­randa, Archbi­shop of Toledo, in his Abridg­ment of the Councils. Ga­renza, and all faithful and unbyass'd Histo­rians.

I have nothing more to add concerning Mr. Chevreau, for I will not trouble you with an account of all the Faults that I have ob­serv'd in his History. And indeed, it is no great wonder that he was not able to carry on so vast [Page 105] and general a Work without falling into some Errors.

I shall only subjoin three or four short Re­marks for a further illustration of our present Controversie.

You must not be surpriz'd to find our Popess call'd both Anglicus and Moguntinus, as if that were a plain Contradiction; theWerner Rool­winck a West­phalian. Author of Fasciculus Temporum has unriddl'd the whole Mystery in these words, Joannes Anglicus cognomine, sed na­tione Moguntinus. Her Name was Joan English, and she was born at Mentz.

The Variations that are observ'd in Manu­scripts ought not to trouble you. I acknow­ledge, that this Story is to be found in some of 'em, and not in others; but you are not ignorant of the Forgeries of Transcribers, or how they were wont to mangle the Books with which they were intrusted. I might easi­ly fill a large Volume with Instances of their Impostures.

I see no reason why it should appear strange that some of those who relate this History seem to speak doubtfully of it; for, besides that it seems at first view to be encumber'd with some odd and intricate circumstances; 'tis certain that they could not express much Zeal in de­fending the Truth of such a Relation, without exposing themselves to visible Dangers. The Force of Truth prompted and compell'd 'em to speak; and the Fear of giving Offence to the Court of Rome was a Bridle to restrain 'em. All this may be easily conceiv'd; however, we see several Authors have broken thro' all these Difficulties, and have given us such clear and [Page 106] exact accounts of that Event, that we could not have deserv'd a more positive confirmation of it.

Two or three such Testimonies as these would be sufficient to convince any reasonable Person of the truth of our Assertion. And, what tho' they are contradicted by Hundreds, and by Millions? Truth can never be over­power'd by the numbers of its Enemies▪ The History of the Popess does not imply the least contradiction; it is attested by several Men of Honour, who were constrain'd by the Evidence of Truth to speak against the Interest of their own Party; our Adversaries themselves cannot pretend that it was foisted into the Writings of these Authors by the Enemies of Popery; and it was receiv'd without contradiction during the space of Five hundred years, by the confession of those very persons who call it a Fable. 'Tis plain then, that all the Negative Authorities in the World are not capable of invalidating the Credit of so many Authentick Witnesses, and of a Relation so solidly and generally attested.

I have already given you an account of my Thoughts, in answer to that part of your Letter where you mention some of our Doctors, who deny the Story of Pope Joan; but since I perceive you insist on this Argument, I must tell you plainly, that it is a very unwarrantable piece of Partiality, not to give it a worse name, blindly to embrace the Opinions of any Man not divinely inspir'd, whatever figure he may make in the World. A Man of Sence will never suffer his Judgment to be byass'd either by the Voice of the Publick, or by the Numbers [Page] [Page] [Page 107] or pretended Authority of Writers that are dignified by great Titles. Three quarters of the Christian World are meer Slaves to those ancient Writers whom they call The Fathers; tho', 'tis certain, the good Instructions they have left us are mix'd with a great number of dangerous, false, insipid, and ridiculous Opi­nions.

I thought to have ended our Controversie here, but I believe it will not be improper to remove another Difficulty before I leave this Subject. I must confess, I was somewhat sur­priz'd to find that, instead of Mr. Chevreau, you had conjur'd up against me so terrible an Adversary as the famousDavid Blon­del. Blondel, who is the Pillar and Bulwark of Antipopessism, and whose bare Name has gain'd abundance of Proselytes to his Opinions. He was a man of Learning and Wit; besides, he was a Protestant, and consequently was believ'd to have no other Interest than that of Truth in the Success of the Quarrel which he had espous'd. 'Tis cer­tain, his Authority has been always a Stone of Stumbling to those who are wont to make Pre­judice their Rule of Faith. The Name of the Author is the strongest Argument in his Book, and it is that alone which has given the greatest Blow to his Enemies.

I have read this Piece over and over with at­tention, and can assure you it is written after a manner very proper to blind the Eyes and con­found the Judgments of the generality of Rea­ders. But those who will not suffer themselves to be impos'd upon, and still look for something that is solid and material, will not find any [Page 108] thing in the whole Book worthy of that Cha­racter.

I could fill a Volume with Observations and Criticisms on this Work, for I have made some Reflexions on every Page, and perhaps every Period in it. This is not a proper place for 'em; but I may find an opportunity hereafter to communicate 'em to you; in the mean time I shall content my self with giving you a general Idea of it, accompanied with a few particular Remarks, according to the method by which I have anatomiz'd it.

Mr. Blondel begins with a Declaration that gives a wound to his Cause, which all his Arti­fices can never palliate. The Force of Truth and of authentick Testimonies, which he re­ceiv'd fromHe means Salmasius. those to whom he neither would nor durst refuse to give credit, extorted this in­genuous Confession from him, That the History of the Female Pope is contain'd in the Augsburg Copies of Anastasius; which I mention'd before. You see what Advantage he has given to his Enemies; and, what Stratagem d' ye think he uses to recover his Ground? Could you ima­gine that a man of his parts would have recourse to the poorest Evasion that ever baffl'd Au­thor was guilty of? or, that he would start an imaginary Difficulty, that he might afterwards the more easily grapple with this Wind-mill in his own Brain? He is sensible there is no­thing but dry Blows to be got by meddling with these original Manuscripts, and that they would be too hard for all his Rhetoric, and therefore he e'en very fairly leaves 'em as he found 'em, without ever mentioning 'em after­wards, [Page 109] and finds out another Anastasius at Paris, written about Two hundred years ago, which contains also the same History, but accompa­nied with some circumstances which, he assures us, imply several Contradictions. And, It seems, adds he, that the Parisian Anastasius should give light to those of Augsburg. At first he dares not advance such a Paradox, but with an it seems, and without considering whether that which seems to him does also seem so to others; he builds his Discourse on this uncertain Foundation, and at the same time, tho' tacitely, establishes his Supposition for a certain Truth. Thus, with his Anastasius of Two hundred years, he has found the Secret to confute all the other Copies of that Author, without citing one of 'em.

But, what is still worse, his Anastasius is a private Piece, which he shews only by Shreds, and dares not produce. If I were not restrain'd by fear of injuring Mr. Blondel's Sincerity, I should be strongly tempted to suspect that his Manuscript was never seen by any Man but him­self: and at least I think I may be allow'd to sup­pose that he durst not quote the whole passage, lest it might furnish his Adversaries with Wea­pons against himself.

In the first place then, we must believe Mr. Blondel upon his own single Testimony, that there was really such an Anastasius, and such a Passage in it, as he cites; but his Manuscript might have been supposititious, or at least a mo­dern and even, by his own confession, an uncer­tain Copy, since he tells us it had been often taken for a Platina. 'Tis strange, that any man [Page 110] that can read should not be able to distinguish Anastasius from Platina.

Secondly, After we have blindly believ'd all that this Author is pleas'd to tell us concerning his pretended Anastasius, we must extend our Com­plaisance further, and, upon the credit of his bare it seems, either believe or suppose his tacite Infe­rence, that this Manuscript not only may serve to illustrate the Anastasius's of Augsburg, as he pretends at first, but is a true Copy of these, and even of the most ancient and exact Anasta­sius's; for, if this supposition be false, all his Arguments must fall to the Ground.

I may venture to affirm, that this Conside­ration alone is sufficient to discredit Mr. Blon­del's famous Book, the main design of which should have been to destroy and confute, by clear and solid Reasons, the positive Testimony of such a learn'd and uninteress'd Eye-witness as Anastasius.

Before I proceed to communicate to you some other Remarks on Mr. Blondel's Treatise, I must desire you not to expect to find 'em all accompanied with Demonstrations; I may per­haps, for brevity's sake, omit the Proofs of some of my Assertions, but I shall be ready to supply that Defect when you please.

In the general 'tis certain, that this Book may be entirely and unanswerably confuted out of it self; and that far from destroying the History of the Popess, the Truth of that Event may be solidly demonstrated by Reasons drawn from this very Treatise. These are two Positions which I dare confidently assert, and undertake to maintain.

[Page 111]Among all the Contradictions with which this Discourse is stuff'd, I shall only desire you to observe, that two thirds of it are spent in litigious Chronological Cavils, and vain Rhodo­montadoes against the Authors of our History. After which he forgets himself so far,Above all, the Chronology of the Bishops or Popes of Rome is a dreadful Labyrinth. as to make a long Harangue to demonstrate the un­certainty of Chronology, and the weakness of those Arguments that are drawn from it, either to confirm or invalidate the Truth of a Relation. When he finds that Chronology may be accom­modated to his Hypothesis, he flies at it greedi­ly, and triumphs as in the Testimony of an Oracle; but every thing that looks a skew up­on his Calculation, is a Trifle or Mistake.

There is a certain Air of Ostentation spread over all his Book, which makes him on all occasions leave the subject of his Discourse, that he may at any rate make a vain Show of his Reading. And even, not unfrequently, this itching Desire to show his Learning makes him utter things extreamly disadvantageous to the Interest of his Opinion; but he must display all that he knows, whatsoever it may cost him.

He heaps up a multitude of needless and impertinent Quotations, not only to satisfie his Vanity, but also to confound his Readers, and to stun 'em with a multitude of noisie Au­thorities? 'Tis plain, that he endeavours to weary People, and to bar the access to his Book with heaps of useless Digressions and empty Cavils, which serve only to encrease the Obscurity and Intricacy of the controverted Question. He very seldom pursues his De­sign [Page 112] closely, and oftentimes picks up some tri­vial Story which Chance throws in his way, and makes as great a noise with it, as if it were tne main Point for which he contends. He triumphs out of season, and confutes petty Circumstances with a great deal of Solemnity, to amuse his Readers. He exaggerates Diffi­culties, and when he meets with one that plea­ses him, splits it perhaps into half a score. He fills his Refutations with scurrilous and injuri­ous Reflexions. He commonly gives the Lye to his Adversaries, and upbraids 'em with Im­postures and Blunders, that he may insensibly accustom those that will suffer themselves to be influenc'd by so bad an Example, to rail per­petually against the Asserters of the opposite Opinion. His Jests are also too spiteful and biting, and he lays about him on all hands without Mercy. This Peevishness and ill Humour is an evident sign that he was non-pluss'd; and sometimes he visibly bewrays a great deal of Fear and Hesitancy in the ma­nagement of his Attacks: Neither is he very sollicitous to be understood, if he can but hoodwink his Readers, and draw 'em after him into the Labyrinth in which he has engag'd himself.

'Tis certainly very pleasant to observe how these doughty Critics, after they have exhaust­ed their Wit in Reflexions on the History of our Popess, are puzzl'd to divine the original occasion of that pretended Fable. Some, with Baronius, run as far as Constantinople, to find out an Imaginary Patriarchess of that See, with­out considering that by so doing they confirm [Page 113] the probability of Pope Joan's Adventure. O­thers, as Onuphrius and Mr. Chevreau, transform an Ann to a Joan, as I intimated before, and by a second Metamorphosis turn this Joan into a Maud, or an Olympia, who govern'd Pope John the Twelfth; and at last they squeeze a sort of a Popess out of this Concubine, whom, after all, they are forc'd to bury a hundred years before she was born, that they may bring her again upon the Stage in time and place conve­nient. Allatius has also forg'd a certain Thiota, a pretended Prophetess of Mentz, whom he transfigures as dexterously as he can into a Fe­male Pontife. Mr. Blondel relates several other Conjectures, and confutes 'em all; he is won­derfully modest on this occasion, and acknow­ledges that this is a Mystery which he is not able to unriddle. But this is not the only place where he displays his Candour; for he imploys fourteen or fifteen Pages of his Pamphlet in a Panegyric on Truth and Justice; and while the Fit of Generosity is upon him, he cannot suffer those unjust Calumniators of the Papal See to escape unpunish'd; which, he assures us, was the only Motive that oblig'd him to draw his Pen. Let us only make two short Reflexi­ons on this Pretence, and then, if you please, we will proceed to some other subject.

Whether there ever was a Woman-Pope, or not, 'tis certain things are otherwise in such a posture, that this Circumstance singly consi­der'd can neither be advantageous nor prejudi­cial to the Interest of the Church of Rome. I never could endure to insult over 'em upon this account, as some among us are wont to do, [Page 114] for I'm perswaded that 'tis impossible to draw any Inferences from this Adventure more to the disadvantage of that Party, than those that may easily be deduc'd from the Stories of several Popes who were far worse than our Popess. If, excepting only this Creature, all the rest of the Popes had been Men of Probity, good Chri­stians, and vigilant and faithful Pastors; had their Lives and Morals been unblemish'd, and their Doctrine pure and uncorrupted, I should not be surpriz'd that those of that Profession could not bear so scandalous a Reproach. But since the most bigotted Authors of the Roman Communion acknowledge that there has been a prodigious number of abominable Popes, why should our She-Pontife be esteem'd a more hide­ous Monster than the rest, meerly because she was of another Sex? The Church of Rome then ought not to make such a terrible pother about an affair of so little consequence: and certain­ly Mr. Blondel had much less reason to take Pep­per in the Nose on the same occasion: his Zeal is at best but impertinent, and his Charity un­profitable. Such an insignificant Remedy as that which he administers can never purifie the whole Mass of the Papal Blood, which, by the unani­mous confession of Historians of all Religions, is extreamly foul and corrupted. And it must be acknowledg'd, that Mr. Blondel's Harangue on those Principles of Generosity that prompted him to undertake this Work, is too tedious and full of Affectation, to perswade a judicious and unbyass'd Reader of the Author's Sincerity.

[Page 115]But I must at last conclude this Subject, by telling you all I think, and even all that I know of my Adversary. And, to speak freely on this occasion, I may venture to assure you, he was acted by Interest as well as by Ostentation. A Man of Honour who liv'd at Paris, and knew that Writer particularly, inform'd me, that he learn'd from the first hand that he was hir'd to write a Treatise against the Story of Pope Joan. My Author is in all respects worthy of Credit; nor is Mr. Blondel the only Man in the World who has been perswaded by Silver Ar­guments to act such a part.

'Tis not without Reluctancy I mention any thing that may be made use of to blacken the Character of a Man, who, to take him in the general, was certainly a Person of Merit; and you must give me leave to say in his justificati­on, that perhaps he really believ'd the Story to be doubtful: Besides that, all things consider'd, he did a Favour to the Church of Rome, by writing against the Popess, without doing the least Injury to Ours. Our Religious Differences do not at all depend on the Truth or Falshood of that Story; and therefore Mr. Blondel might look upon it as a matter of Indifference.

I can say little or nothing in answer to your Questions concerning the Greeks and Armenians that are in this City. They have each of 'em their particular Ceremonies, and officiate accor­ding to their peculiar Rites; but they are forc'd to subscribe to the Pope's Supremacy, be­fore they can obtain leave to settle at Rome. Antiquaries believe, that the little Armenian [Page 116] Church was heretofore one of the Temples of the Sun and Jupiter.

The Jews at Rome enjoy'd some measure of Liberty, and liv'd somewhat easily before the Pontificate of Paul the Fourth; but that Pope was a terrible Enemy to 'em: For whereas be­fore they were permitted to live in any part of the City, he confin'd 'em to one corner of it, whither he order'd 'em to retire at the close of the Evening. He forc'd 'em to sell their Posses­sions, and suffer'd 'em only to trade in old Clothes. He commanded 'em, for a mark of distinction, to wear yellow Hats, and issu'd out an express prohibition, That no Christians should either eat or converse with 'em. I am inform'd, that by a Decree of Gregory XIII, they were oblig'd, or at least a certain number of 'em, to hear a Christian Sermon every Saturday in the Afternoon, but I have not yet had an opportunity to see that Assembly. The Italian Jews, and particularly those of Rome, as some of themselves assur'd me, do scrupulously ob­serve the Law that enjoins 'em to marry at Twenty years of age at farthest, under the pain of Ignominy, and being treated as persons li­ving in Sin. The number of the Jews at Rome may at present amount to between Six and Seven thousand.

When any Jew, or other Infidel, is willing to embrace the Christian Religion, the Solemnity of his Baptism is put off to Saturday in the Holy Week, unless some urgent Consideration require greater haste. This Ceremony is perform'd in the Church of S. John de Lateran, where, they [Page 117] believe, Constantine the Great was baptiz'd. We saw six Turks baptiz'd in this Church; they wore a Cloak of white Damask, and a Lawn­band, with a Silver Cross hanging at their Neck. The Cardinal that was to officiate be­ing come with the Canons of that Church, the Ceremony was begun with blessing the Wa­ter; after which the Proselytes, presented by their Godfathers, advanc'd, every one in his turn, and declar'd their desire to be baptiz'd; then they lean'd over the Font, and the Cardinal baptiz'd 'em, and gave 'em their Names, by pouring Water on their Heads out of a large Silver Spoon; afterwards taking Wax Tapers in their Hands, they were confirm'd in the Cha­pel of the Baptistery, and from thence went to hear Mass in the same Church.

We were present also, the Thursday before, at the Ceremony of washing the Feet of Thirteen Pilgrims, in one of the Chapels of the Vatican; they were likewise cloth'd in white, and besides had a kind of Hood, with a square Cap. Be­ing set all in a row upon a Bench, they pull'd off their Shoes and Stockings, and a Priest came to see whether they were ready; afterwards a great Bason was brought in, and Ewers of Vermilion, one for every Pilgrim: Then the Cardinal that officiated in the Pope's absence wash'd their Feet in the Bason, rubbing 'em with his own Hands, and then wip'd and kiss'd 'em. After which every Pilgrim receiv'd two Gold Medals, and all in a body went to one of the Chambers in the Palace, where a magnifi­cent Entertainment was prepar'd for 'em: all the Thirteen Pilgrims were plac'd on one side of a [Page 118] Table, and the Cardinals sate at another in the same Room.

I will not trouble you with a particular Ac­count of the rest of the Ceremonies that we saw during the Holy Week, since they have been exactly describ'd by others.

TheInnocent XI. Pope is really old and infirm; but, 'tis plain, that he makes his want of Health serve for a Pretext to excuse his absence at all those numerous Ceremonies. I am very credi­bly inform'd, that he did by no means approve of the French Dragooning; and I learn'd from a good hand, that he could not be brought to take notice of those Steps that were lately made by that Crown towards a Reconciliation. The Minister that was entrusted with the manage­ment of that Affair could never obtain a posi­tive Answer to his Proposals, nor so much as a free Audience.

The extream Privacy of that Retirement in which this Pontife spends his days, not only hides him from the Eyes of Strangers, but they are even hardly able to perceive that he is in Town; for they never meet with any Lac­queys, Coaches, or Retinue that belong to him: when he goes abroad, which he does very rarely, he is carry'd in a Litter. These Litters are very large, lin'd with crimson Velvet with­out and within, with Gold Galoons and Fringes; and the Harness of the Mules are adorn'd after the same manner. The Pope is always alone in his Litter, in the fore-part of which there is a little Table instead of a Seat. All Popes have the same Livery, which is scarlet, with a double Velvet-Galoon of the same colour. Almost all [Page 119] the Apartments of the Vatican and Monte-Cavallo are likewise hung with red Damask, adorn'd with Bands of Gold-Galoon, and above with Gold-Fringes.

The situation of the Gardens of Monte-Cavallo is very pleasant, but the contrivance of 'em is irregular, and they appear'd to us to be very much neglected.

The two Marble Horses that stand before the Palace were by Sixtus the Fifth's Order brought from Constantine's Baths. It is, and has always been, the general Opinion, That one of 'em is the Work of Phidias, and the other of Praxi­teles, the Names of those two famous Sculptors being engraven upon 'em. 'Tis also said,Opus Phidiae, Opus Praxitelis. and many Authors have written, That these Horses are the Statues of Alexander's Bucephalus, which these Artists made in Emulation of one-another, but there must certainly be some Mistake in this Tradition. Phidias flourish'd a whole Age before Praxiteles, and Alexander the Great liv'd Fifty years after Praxiteles. 'Tis plain then, either that these Statues are not the Work of the above-mention'd Sculptors, or that they were not made for Bucephalus.

The two other Horses of Marble, that are to be seen in the Court of the Capitol, were taken from Pompey's Theatre; and the Statue on Horse­back of Brass which stands in the same place, was erected there by Paul III. 'tis thought to be the Statue of Marcus Aurelius.

The Capitol is a modern Structure, rais'd up­on the Ruins, and even on part of theThe old Foun­dations appear. Foun­dations of the ancient Edifice: it would require a whole Volume to describe all the remarkable [Page 120] Antiquities in this place; I shall only name some of the principal. The She-Wolf of Brass, giving suck to the Illustrious Twins, on which may be seen the mark of the Thunderbolt mention'd byOrat. 3. con­tra Cat. Cicero; the four great Basso­relievo's, which represent several Passages of the History of Marcus Aurelius; the Columna rostrata of the General, or Admiral and Consul Duillius, the first that was honour'd with a Naval Tri­umph in Rome; the Courier pulling a Thorn out of his Foot after he had deliver'd his accepta­ble Message to the Senate, who chose rather to endure that pain during his Journey, than to retard the public Joy; the Bust of Cicero, with his Vetches; theOne for Oyl, two for Wine, and the fourth for Grain. four ancient Measures; the Bust of Virgil; Nero's Nurse holding that little Monster by the Hand; the Goddess of Silence; the God Pan; the three Furies; a Statue of Caesar with his Cuirass; another of Augustus; those of Castor and Pollux; the Fragments of the Colosses of Apollo, Domitian, and Commodus; the Lion devouring a Horse; and the Trophies which some think are Trajan's, tho' others ascribe 'em to Marius.

The Pictures in Fresco in the great Hall are by the Hand of Cavalier Joseph; I am of opinion that they represent the first Battel between the Romans and Sabins.

I know not well what account to give you of the Pillar call'd the Milliarium, for I'm per­swaded that it would not be an easie Task to explain the true meaning of it; It is of white Marble,Primus, Secun­dus, Tertius ab Urbe Lapis. eight foot and a half high; the Cy­pher I is mark'd on the top of it, and on the Chapiter a Brass Globe about two foot in dia­meter: [Page 121] The common Opinion is, That this Column is in the Center of Rome, and that from hence they began to compute the distances from that City, which were divided into Miles by other Pillars that were erected on all the great Roads in Italy; but there are two or three Dif­ficulties that destroy the probability of this supposition. The Column in the Forum Romanum mention'd by Suetonius, Tacitus, and some other ancient Authors, was, according to their Re­presentation of it, of Brass, or Brass gilt, and the Names of the great Roads were engrav'd upon it, with the computed distances of the principal Cities; but no such thing appears on the Milliarium in the Capitol. You will perhaps tell me, that the brazen Column might be lost, and the Milliarium set up in its place; but you do not consider that this last was found adjoin­ing to the Appian Road, as it appears by theColumnam Milliariam pri­mi ab urbe La­pidis Indicem, ab Imperatore Vespasiano & Nerva restitu­tam, de Ruinis suburbanis Viae Appiae in Capito­lium transtulit. mo­dern Inscription engrav'd on one of the Faces of its Pedestal: nor is it at all probable that this Pillar was transported from the middle of the City to a mile's distance from the Walls. Be­sides, how is it possible to explain the meaning of these Expressions Primus, or Secundus ab Ʋrbe Lapis, if these Stones or Columns were not with­out the City, since the word ab urbe does evi­dently imply that they were not in it? If I had never heard or read of the gilt Milliarium in the heart of the City, where some Authors pretend that all the Consulary Roads met, I should have certainly concluded from the words Ab Ʋrbe, from the City, that Primus Lapis, the first Column, or Milliarium, such as that in the Capitol, had been erected at the distance of one Mile from [Page 122] the Walls of Rome. Since this Milliarium was found in one of the Suburbs of the City, and near to one of the Highways, I should have believ'd that its proper place was there, and that the number of those First Columns equall'd that of the great Roads. Whether we suppose that the gilt Milliarium was the only first Pillar, and that the second Columns were plac'd at the distance of one mile from it, which ne­vertheless seems to imply a contradiction; or that the gilt Column in the center of the City was only a Mark from which all the Distances were computed, and that the nearest Columns were call'd first Milliariums, and distinguish'd by an Inscription like that in the Capitol: 'tis obvious from either of these Suppositions, that, considering the Greatness of Rome, none of all these first or second Columns could be within the City, and consequently that this Expression Primo ab Ʋrbe Lapide was very improper, and even false; for the primus Lapis must have been in Ʋrbe, and not ab Ʋrbe.

I am confirm'd in this Opinion by another Circumstance. There is an ancient Inscription in the Palace call'd Palaestrinum, which contains the Statues of a College of Aesculapius, and of Health, to which one Salvia Marcellina bequeath'd a Temple, a Place or Court, and a Walk, the whole being situated on the Appian Way, near the Temple of Mars, Intra Miliarium primum & secundum ab Ʋrbe euntibus; that is, Between the first and second mile as you go from the City.

'Tis the common Opinion of Antiquaries, that there was a Temple of Mars without the City, and on the Via Appia; and all these Con­siderations [Page 123] put together, do almost fully con­vince me, thatSince the first Edition of this Book, I find that Holstenius is of the same Opi­nion. the gilt Milliarium was erected only to mark the place where all the great Roads begun, and to compute the Distances of the chief Cities; but that all the First Columns were each One Mile distant from the Walls of Rome.

The Information I receiv'd from those whom I consulted on this occasion, was not very material to confirm either of the opposite Opini­ons; however, I will think of some other way to clear my Doubts, and in the mean time you will oblige me, by sending me an account of your Thoughts on this subject.

To compleat the Description of the Millia­rium in the Capitol, I shall subjoin two Inscripti­ons that are engrav'd on the Body of the Pil­lar.

IMP. CAESAR VESPASIANUS PONTIF. MAXIM. TRIB. POTESTAT. XVII. IMP. XVII. P. P. CENSOR COS. VII. DESIGN. VIII.

IMP. NERVA CAESAR AUGUSTUS PONTIFEX MAXIMUS TRIBUNITIA POTESTATE COS. III. PATER PATRIAE REFECIT.

Adjoining to the Right Wing of the Capitol, there is a Church call'd Ara Coeli; 'tis said, that Augustus having consulted the Oracle at Delphos, to know who should succeed him in the Empire, could not for a long time obtain an Answer to his redoubl'd Sollicitations; and, that at last the Oracle desir'd the Emperor to retire, declaring, that it was not able to satisfie him, because its Mouth was stop'd by the Hebrew Child, who was [Page 124] the Son of God, and true God himself. The Story adds, that Augustus finding this Declarati­on to agree with the Sibyllin Prophesies, imme­diately order'd an Altar to be built in the Ca­pitol, to the honour of the Hebrew Child men­tion'd by the Oracle, calling it Ara Primogeniti Dei, The Altar of the First-born of God. The Church call'd Ara Coeli is built in the same place, so that Augustus's Altar remains still near the Quire.

The Prison to which, they believe, St. Peter and St. Paul were sent, after they had receiv'd the Sentence of Death, is very near this place: It is at present a Chapel, by the name of S. Pietro in carcere. 'Tis the general Opinion of Antiquaries, that this is the Tullianum which was finish'd by Servius Tullius, or Tullus Hostilius, where only condemn'd Malefactors were imprison'd. Here they show a littleThey pretend that the Water of this Spring has a milky taste. Spring, which, they say, gush'd out of the Rock at the Prayer of St. Peter, that he might baptize certain Prose­lytes. They made us also take notice of the Im­pression of that Apostle's Face on the Wall, which they told was made by the yielding of the Stone, when he was thrust against it by a Blow which he receiv'd from a Soldier.

There is a prodigious multitude of ancient Ruins scatter'd about behind the Capitol, but I dare not engage in these Labyrinths; I shall only touch upon some short Remarks by the by.

So call'd from Tarpeia a Ro­man Damsel slain in this place by the Sabines.The famous Rupes Tarpeia, that Precipice for­merly so dreadful, is at present an inconsiderable Rock about twenty foot high.

[Page 125]The Triumphal Arcb erected for Titus, after he had taken Jerusalem, is remarkable, among other things, for the Basso relievo's which represent the Candlestick, Table, Trumpets of the Great Jubilee, and some Vessels that were taken out of the Temple.

Constantin's Arch is almost entire, only some of its Statues have lost their Heads, which they say Lawrence de Medicis stole, and carry'd to Flo­rence. It has been observ'd by curious Inspe­cters, that the Basso relievo's on this Monument are not equally beautiful, which makes 'em suspect that the best Pieces were taken away when it was erected.

The Lake of Curtius was in the middle of the Forum Romanum. Ovid tells us, that even in his time there were no marks of it to be seen.

Curtius ille Lacus siccas qui sustinet aras,
Nunc solida est Tellus: sed fuit ante Lacus.
Fast. 6.

The prodigious Amphitheater Because of a Colossus that was near it. Hic ubi conspicui venerabilis Amphitheatri Erigitur Moles, Stagna Neronis erant. Mart. call'd Colli­seum is round on the outside, tho' the Arena or Place of Combat is oval. It contain'dWithout rec­koning the Ex­cuneati, who stood in the Pas­sages, to the number of Twenty thou­sand. Eighty and Five thousand Spectators, four times more than the Amphitheater at Verona. I observ'd, that the Pillars of the Third Order, and the Pilasters of the Fourth have Corinthian Chapi­ters.

[Page 126]You must excuse me for not satisfying your Curiosity by answering the Questions you pro­pose concerning the Senate of Women establish'd by Heliogabulus. The little Building at Monte-Cavallo, by some thought to have been a Tem­ple of the Sun, and by others a Temple of Health, is suspected to have been the meeting place of that Sage Assembly; but this Conceit is grounded only on some uncertain Conjectures.

The Columns of Trajan and Antonin are so famous and magnificent, that I cannot forbear mentioning 'em, tho' doubtless they have been sufficiently describ'd by others. Both these admirable Monuments are adorn'd with Basso relievos, ascending in a spiral line from the Base to the Chapiter, which represent the Wars and memorable Actions of those Princes.

It consists of 24 Stones, each of which contains eight Steps. Boiss.The first was erected by the Senate to the ho­nour of Trajan, and also serv'd him for a Mau­soleum, his Ashes having been plac'd in a golden Urn on the top of it. This Urn was succeeded by a Statue of St. Peter, of Brass gilt, which Sixtus the Fifth caus'd to be put in its place. The heighth of the Body of the Pillar amounts to 128 Roman, or almost 124 English Feet, and is ascended by One hundred and Twenty three Steps.

This Column consists of Eight and twenty Stones. Idem.The second was also built by the Senate to the honour of Antoninus Pius. The Statue of that Emperor was plac'd on the top of it, where that of St. Paul stands at present, which is of Brass, and gilt like St. Peter's. The Stairs con­sist of Two hundred and six Steps, and the Trunk of the Pillar is One hundred and sixty Roman Foot high, which are equivalent to [Page 127] One hundred and Fifty five Feet of your mea­sure.

I have several times enjoy'd the learned and delightful Converse of the Abbot F. We visi­ted together some of the Caves call'd Catacombs, and several Ruins of the old Edifices, besides other Antiquities. I shall take this occasion to acquaint you, that we enter'd one day into theCapo di Bovi. Mausoleum of Cecilia Daughter of Metellus, sir­nam'd Creticus. At the entrance of this Monu­ment he shew'd us a hole, into which, some weeks ago, aD. Malatesta Strinati, of Ce­sena. Gentleman drop'd, unperceiv'd by those who accompanied him. His Friends were seiz'd with astonishment when they miss'd him, and could not imagin what was become of him. The Pit was deep, and either he was so stunn'd by his Fall, that he could not cry out, or if he did call none of 'em heard him, and at last they return'd without him. About sixty hours after, the poor Gentleman having fortunately scratch'd open a passage, clamber'd out of the Pit, and, tho' not without difficul­ty, got to the next House, his Legs being scarce able to sustain his pale, weak, starv'd, and spent Body, The People of the House where he enter'd, mov'd with Compassion, pre­par'd some comfortable Broths for him, and as­sisted him so effectually, that he quickly reco­ver'd his Strength.

Never were there so many subterraneous places seen, as there are in and about Rome; the Earth is faln down in some parts, and has stop'd the Entries of many of those famous Caves so universally known by the name of Catacombs, but there is still a prodigious number [Page 128] of 'em remaining. You must not fancy those Vaults, I mean every Catacomb, if I may be allow'd to use that Expression, to be one single Room; for the Catacombs of St. Agnes, for example, or those of St. Sebastian are Labyrinths of subterraneous Lanes, which turn, wind, and cross one another like the Streets of a City, Such of these Caverns as seem never to have been made use of for Sepulchres, as those of the Gate Pinciana, and those others near St. John and St. Paul's, are only nam'd Grottoes, and the rest are call'd Catacombs, which is a modern Name without any signification, for all the various Etymologies that are given of it are meer un­certain Conjectures.

The Roman Catacombs spread themselves un­der all the Suburbs, but at Naples they are found only under one part of the City. These Caves are dug out of the Rocks, and extend very far on every side; each Vault is commonly about fifteen or eighteen foot wide, and the heighth of the Arch amounts to twelve or fifteen feet: on each side there are hollow Niches in the Walls, fram'd like Chests of all sizes, plac'd in rows above one another, without any regular Symmetry, where the Bodies were laid without Coffins, and cover'd with flat Stones or large Tyles, cemented with Chalk and Sand, as it appears distinctly in some places to this very day. Besides the Niches in the Catacombs of Naples, there are some Tombs of a reasonable bigness, adorn'd with diverse Pictures, among which there are many Figures of Heads and half-Bodies, with the Names of the Persons, Paulus, Nicolaus, Proculus, &c. and sometimes a [Page 129] hic jacet, or hic requiescit, is added to the Names.

On one of these Tombs I took notice of a yellow and blew Cross, after this fashion, and accompanied with these Characters: [...]. Jesus Christus vincit, Jesus Christ overcame.

[figure]

The Greeks formerly wrote their Σ almost like our Latin C, as you may observe particularly in the Inscriptions of the Three First Ages; but tho' Custom has again introduc'd the ancient Σ, yet they still retain the other in the contracti­ons of these words, ΙΗΣΟΥΣ and ΧΡΙΣΤΟΣ, as you may see on the top of this Cross, and as I have often observ'd in modern Inscriptions.

Of all the Catacombs we view'd at Rome, those of St. Sebastian are the grearest; the Ar­ches are commonly as high as those of Naples, but the Vaults are but about two foot and a half broad. In several places we saw a great number of cover'd Niches in the higher rows. A Priest, whom we happen'd one day to meet there, had the Curiosity to open one of 'em, in which we found a Skeleton almost moulder'd away into whitish Ashes, yet we might perceive [Page 130] that the Body had been laid on its Back. The reason why these Catacombs were not made wider, is because the Ground is sandy, and could not be underpropp'd, whereas those of Naples are hewn out of the solid Rock.

They pretend here, that these Vaults were dug by the Christians; that during the First Ages of Christianity, Divine Service was perform'd in 'em; that these burying-places were peculiar to the Christi­ans, and never us'd by the Heathens; that a great number of Saints and Martyrs were interr'd in 'em; and consequently, which is the Cream of the Story, that they are inexhaustible Store-houses of Re­licks.

Tho' these Suppositions were true, they could not justifie the Practice of those who pick up every Bone they meet with in a Catacomb, and meerly because they found it there, conclude that it ought to be rank'd among those things call'd Relicks. But this Consideration would lead me into a Controversie which I am not willing to examine at this time; neither will I undertake to write a long Dissertation con­cerning the first part of the above-mention'd Hypothesis, which would require more time and Books than I am Master of at present; on­ly in obedienee to your desire, I shall make a few short Remarks on these Propositions.

Since we are not oblig'd to give credit to the single Testimony of any man in his own Cause, 'Tis a general Rule that admits of no Excepti­ons, that every Man that expects to be believ'd must prove what he affirms. 'Tis plain then, that they who maintain so positively, That the Catacombs were made by Christians for their own pe­culiar [Page 131] use, ought to demonstrate the Truth of their Assertion. This they have not done, and therefore I might justly reject their Opinion without being at the charge of an Argument to confute it. Yet, by way of supererogation, and out of complaisance to you, I shall subjoin some Considerations which will very much weaken, if not entirely destroy, their Hypothesis.

(1.) The first thing that comes into my mind on this occasion, is a Passage which I observ'd not long ago in Horace, where that Author speaking of the Puteculi, or public Burying-places, where the poorer sort of People in Rome were usually interr'd, makes a descri­ption of 'em which agrees exactly with the ac­count I have given you of the Catacombs.

Huc priùs angustis ejecta Cadavera Cellis
Conservus vili portanda locabat in arcâ:
Hoc miserae plebi stabat commune Sepulchrum.

Thomas Goodwin an English Author has repre­sented 'em after the same manner in his Antho­logy of the Roman History; see the Chapter that treats Of Funeral Ceremonies.

(2.) I am not ignorant that the Christians were wont to imitate the Heathens on many oc­casions, but the words Fata, diis Manibus, Domus aeternae, and several other such like Expressions, that are often found in the Epitaphs on these Tombs, were so peculiar to the Heathens, that it is not conceivable they were ever us'd by Christians. I might, if it were necessary, con­firm my Opinion by the Authority of no less [Page 132] famous an Antiquary than Mr. Spon; for you may observe in the Collection of ancient Inscri­ptions with which he has enrich'd the account of his Voyage to Greece, that he could not be perswaded to believe that the Epitaph on a Tomb at Thebes, which they assur'd him was St. Luke's Sepulchre, was made by a Christian, meerly be­cause of the word MOIPHC, which he found in it, tho' it also mention'd the Immortality of the Soul. The same Author speaks more positively to this purpose, when he refutes the common Opinion concerning the pretended Tomb of a Saint near Valentia. He says expresly, that the words Aethera and Superis mention'd in the In­scription are, in his opinion, sufficient Argu­ments to prove that it is the Tomb of a Heathen, and subjoins this Maxim, That the Stile of Epitaphs ought to be distinguish'd from that of Poesie, by reason of the liberty claim'd by Poets of all Religions; whereas he assures us that he has always discover'd evident marks of the Pie­ty and Simplicity of the Primitive Church in the Inscriptions on ancient Tombs. What opi­nion then do you think this learned Antiquary would have had of the Gods Manes, and Eter­nal Houses of the Catacombs?

(3.) The Glass Vials and little Metallic Vessels that have been frequently found in those Sepul­chres are also marks of Paganism. The Asser­tors of the common Opinion concerning the Catacombs pretend that these Vessels serv'd to contain the Blood of the Martyrs; but this is a bare Conjecture, without the least Proof or Illustration. And besides, we have reason to conclude, that these are true Lachrymatories, [Page 133] such as the Heathens were wont to put both in­to their Urns and Tombs. You know that they were not only desirous to be lamented, which made 'em hire Women to weep at their Fu­nerals, but also took care to gather these Tears, and to preserve 'em with their Ashes or Bones.

I confess, this Reason alone could not have convinc'd me, since 'tis certain, as I intimated before, that the Christians borrow'd several less innocent Customs from the Heathens. But this Observation may serve to illustrate and confirm the first.

(4.) There is a Passage in Tertullian's Apolo­getic that does not at all agree with the Opinion of those who believe that the ancient Christians were usually buried in the Catacombs. That Author complains of the Fury of the Heathens who took the Bodies of the Christians out of their Tombs, and drag'd 'em about the Streets; and 'tis probable, that if once those Persecutors had discover'd these Caves, they would have for ever depriv'd the Christians of 'em.

(5.) If I should enquire how the Christians were able to dig and empty these Caves with­out alarming their Neighbors, and how they dispos'd of all the Rubbish, my Adversaries would doubtless tell me, That this Work was not done in secret; and, that the Peuzzolane or Sand of the Catacombs was sold by the poor Christians, who, for this reason, were nick­nam'd Arenarii; that in the mean time they perform'd the Duties of Religious Wor­ship in these holes, under pretext of burying their Dead. But this Answer is by no means [Page 134] applicable to the Catacombs of Naples, that are hewn out of a Rock.

And as for the Nick-name of Arenarii, it may be observ'd, that this Derision of the Mi­sery and Poverty of the Christians does not prove that they were the only Persons in Rome who were reduc'd to trade in Sand, which is the thing that ought to have been demonstra­ted, to remove the Difficulty which may arise from our supposing that other persons besides the Christians were employ'd in digging these Holes. Tho' the Jews of Frankfort, for exam­ple, are oblig'd to run to any part of the City where a Fire happens to break forth, and to carry Water to quench it; it does not fol­low, that the Christian Inhabitants of that City remain idle Spectators of their Labours.

[figure]

(6.) The Cyphers of the Name of Christ, Palm branches, Doves of Peace, Crosses, Crowns, and other marks of Christianity, that are found on the Stones which cover these Sepulchres, instead of proving what our Adversaries pretend, That these Burying places were peculiar to the Chri­stians, seem rather to evince, that they made use of such Symbols for Marks of distinction, to prevent their being confounded with the In­fidels.

'Tis the common Opinion here, That these Cyphers represented in the Margin are com­pos'd of a Latin P, for Pro or For, and a Cross, which signifies Christ; so that these Cha­racters [Page 135] are call'd Pro Christo's. They conclude from hence, that such Figures are the sure Marks of the Tomb of a Martyr, or of one that suffer'd Pro Christo, for the Name of Christ, and accordingly raise the price of the Relicks. But 'tis plain, that these Cyphers consist of a X, Chi, and a P. Rho, which are the two first Letters of ΧΡΙΣΤΟΣ; as ΜΑ and ΘΥ signifie ΜΑΡΙΑ ΘΥΓΑΤΗΡ, as I observ'd in the Mosaic Work on the Front of St. Mary major, and in several other places.

The Christian Epitaphs that are found here serve as little to confirm the adverse Opinion as the above mention'd Symbols; for the Question is not, whether the Bodies of some Christians were buried in the Catacombs, which is a certain and undoubted Truth. Not only Eusebius and Miltiades Bishops of Rome under the Empire of Constantine, but Cains and Marcellus their Prede­cessors, who suffer'd Martyrdom with some other Christians, by the express Order of Dioclesian, were all interr'd in these Vaults, if we may believe Platina. Besides, it appears by the dates of a great number of Epitaphs, that several Christians were buried here during the First Ages: And I have sufficient ground to believe they appropriated these Sepulchres entirely to themselves in the succeeding times of Peace and Liberty.

Thus we may easily comprehend how those Christian Epitaphs are to be found in these Cells, but after all the Controversie remains untouch'd; for the burying of Christians here, is not a Rea­son to exclude others from being interr'd in those [Page 136] Holes that were set apart for the Dregs of the People.

The Pictures of diverse sorts and ages in the Catacombs at Naples, the Fashions of the Altars both there and at Rome, and several other Cir­cumstances from which some pretend to draw Inferences, give no light to the Controversie, and deserve not to be consider'd. The reason of which is, because the Popes of these last Ages having always look'd upon their Catacombs as a profitable Source and Magazine of Relicks, have repair'd 'em in several places, and made such alterations as they thought most proper to strengthen the Opinion of the People, and especially of the Pilgrims, who come from all parts to visit these Holy Places. Panciroli makes a long description of these Reparations, by the help of which we may easily resolve the Diffi­culties that might arise from several things that are observ'd in these Catacombs.

I must not forget to tell you, that during the time of the Plague which rag'd at Naples, about forty years ago, the Catacombs were the most usual places of burial; and all the Bodies that are to be seen there at present, are such as were interr'd on that occasion.

Near the Church and Catacombs of St. Agnes there is an old round Temple, which some think was a Temple of Bacchus. This Conceit is grounded only on certain ancient Representa­tions of Vines and Vintages which are on the Roof, and on the Figures of Grapes, Vine­branches, little Cupids gathering and pressing the Grapes, Vessels, Tuns, Panniers, and such [Page 137] other Appurtenances of Bacchus that are to be seen on a Tomb of Porphyry in the same Temple. But all these Circumstances are not sufficient to prove, that this Temple was con­secrated to him, or that the above-mention'd Tomb is his Sepulchre, especially if we call to mind that Bacchus dy'd not at Rome.

Since this Temple is but a hundred or sixscore paces distant from St. Agnes Church, which was undoubtedly built by Constantine, it may with much greater probability be conjectur'd, that the former was built at the same time to serve for a Baptistery to the latter, according to the general Custom of those times; and there is also another like Building, which was erected by the same Emperor for a Baptistery to S. John de Lateran. Neither the Ornaments of the Roof, nor those of the Tomb, are inconsistent with this Opinion, since they are also Symbols of Christianity.

But I need not insist longer on these Conje­ctures, since the Controversie was decided long ago by Pope Alexander the Fourth, who taking it for granted, that the Bones of Constantia Daughter to Constantin, were enclos'd here,Ann. 1255. took 'em out, and having plac'd 'em as Relicks un­der the Altar which he built in this little Tem­ple, dedicated both to St. Constantia.

The Tabernacle of the high Altar of St. Ag­nes is supported by four pretty large and ex­treamly-well polish'd Pillars of Porphyry. We were inform'd, that the little Statue we saw there, was formerly the Statue of a Pagan Deity, but has since been adopted, and consecrated to be for the future the Statue of St. Agnes. Its [Page 138] Mantle deserves to be attentively consider'd.

I might entertain you with an account of many other Antiquities which I observ'd in the Cabinets we have visited, and particularly in that of the Cavalier Pietro Paulo Manini, but my Letters are already so stuff'd with such Descri­ptions, that I shall content my self with men­tioning some of those that I had time to consider in the Cabinet of Mr. Bellori. The Curiosities it contains are not extraordinarily numerous, but they are all well chosen, and every thing in it is absolutely rare and perfect. His Fortuna Pan­thea is a little Signum of Brass half a foot high, and extreamly well preserv'd. How odd were the Imaginations of the Heathens! The Gods govern'd the World, while they themselves were subject to the fantastical Humours of For­tune! This little Goddess is surrounded with, or to speak more properly, compos'd of all the Marks and Characters of Divinity that were proper to other Deities; She has the Beauty of Venus, Juno's Crown, Diana's Crescent, the Miter of Isis, Ceres's Horn of Abundance, Minerva's Robe, the Wings of Fame or of Victory, Cupid's Quiver, the Goats-skin of Bacchus, Esculapius's Serpent, Fortune's Rudder, and several other marks of Gods and Goddesses.

I observ'd also the Deify'd Faustina, with her blown-up Veil strew'd with Stars; the Magna Mater, or Natura rerum parens, who suckles diffe­rent Animals at all her Breasts; the Goddess Fortune, holding in one Hand the Horn of Abun­dance, and in the other the Nail of Necessity; the Bust of a young Roman Nobleman, with his Bulla aurea hanging at his Neck; the Cistrum, [Page 139] an Instrument which the Egyptians us'd, before the Romans, to assemble the People to the Sacrifices. This is a rare Piece, resembling a little Racket, the Wood pierc'd with four pieces of Brass like Cords or Rods, which play and make a noise: This Instrument denoted the four Elements and the Hurry of the World.

The ancient Vessel of brown Earth, but fine, and sounding like Porcelane, is another of the Rarities in this Cabinet. The Pictures about the Vessel contain Representations of their Cu­stoms in bathing; and among others there is a Woman holding in one hand a Strigil or Instru­ment for rubbing off sweat, and in the other a Vessel call'd Guttum, which contain'd odoriferous Waters. Besides, there are Ʋrns, Sepulchral Lamps, Lachrymatories, rare Pictures, and a hun­dred other things, which I have not time to de­scribe.

Father Kircher's Cabinet in the Roman Col­lege was formerly one of the most curious in Europe, but it has been very much mangl'd and dismember'd: yet there remains still a conside­rable collection of natural Rarities, with several mechanical Engines.

It may be justly said, That the Roman Col­lege, which is the great College, and principal House of the Jesuits at Rome, is one of the finest Palaces in the City; the Library is good and nu­merous, but there are no ancient Manuscripts, nor other considerable Rarities in it.

In a great Hall, which is adorn'd with the Pictures of the Jesuits that have suffer'd Martyr­dom, we took notice of the famous Garnet, that bold Servant of the Society, who was drawn, [Page 140] hang'd, and quarter'd for the Gun-Powder Treason. At his side there is the Figure of an Angel, who encourages him, and shews him the Heavens open'd.

During the three last days of the Holy Week, we met with almost nothing else in the Streets of Rome but Processions of Penitents of all sorts, and in all shapes, who were seeking after Pa­radise by another way than that of Garnet. They had tapering Hoods which cover'd their Heads, leaving only two holes directly opposite to their Eyes: some of these Penitents were cloath'd in white, others in Violet colour, blew, yellow, and several other colours; some'Tis well known that se­veral of 'em are hir'd to play these Tricks. lash'd their own naked Backs with Whips of small twisted Cords, which made more noise than they did execution: these are only the puny Scholars of the Druids and Brachman's, or, if you will, of the Indian Faquirs; but they come very far short of the Scotopitae or Circumcelliones of the Fourth Age, who were wont to burn themselves, to cut their own Throats, or to break their Necks for the love of God. There are, and always have been, Fools of all Pro­fessions; This puts me in mind of an Accident that I cannot forbear relating to you, and of which I was an Eye-witness. In June 1683. there was an unhappy Creature hang'd atThe second City in Poictou. Niori, for murdering her own Child; immediately after the Execution was over, a certain comical Fellow started out of the Crowd. He was about Thirty years old, and wore the Habit of a Franciscan Hermit; he lodg'd in holes under ground, where he liv'd on Roots and Wild-Fruit, and was the Son of aCall'd La Val­lee. poor man in the [Page 141] Town. He went straight up to the top of the Ladder, which was not yet taken away, and untying the Rope that serv'd him for a Girdle, he put it about his Neck with a running Knot, and fasten'd it to the Gibbet: after which he began very gravely to harangue the Specta­tors, alledging several Reasons to excuse the dead Wench, for whose Ransom he said he had offer'd his Life. He added, That his Crimes exceeded hers, and that he was resolv'd to ex­piate 'em by a sudden and voluntary Death: in the mean time the People laugh'd at him, not imagining that he was Fool enough to hang himself; for he was generally known, and the Bigots had a good opinion of him. However, he ventur'd on the fatal leap, and his Tongue hung out of his Mouth a large minute before any person came to his assistance; but at lastBourdin a Turner, and Keeper of a Bil­liard Table on the Castle-ditch. one of the Company, more charitable than the red, cut the Cord, and, tho' not without some difficulty, sav'd the extravagant Wretch. I had almost forgot one material circumstance; his Mother was present, and would not suffer those about her to baulk her son's Humour; she entreated 'em to let him alone, For, said she, I'm sure the Rope was bless'd, and no harm can come on't.

There was not so numerous a concourse of Pilgrims this year as has been formerly. I have read in a Description of Trinity Hospital, that in the year 1600, which was the last of the great Jubilee, that House receiv'd, according to the usual Custom, or took care to provide for Four hundred and Forty thousand and Five hundred Men, besides Five and twenty thousand and Five [Page 142] hundred Women. The Italian Pilgrims are lodg'd and entertain'd here three days, but those who come from beyond Sea, or from the other side of the Mountains, are allow'd one day lon­ger. Princes, Princesses, Cardinals, and the Pope himself, wash their Feet, and serve 'em at Table.

I must not forget to tell you, that we never yet met the Sacrament in Rome, nor in any other Town in Italy, save only at Venice, where we saw it twice, under a magnificent Canopy not unlike to the Doge's Ombrella, and surrounded with a great number of Torches. The People of this Country are not at all possess'd with a spirit of Hatred or Persecution against Strangers of what Religion soever; and I must do 'em the Justice to acknowledge, that in our Travels through Italy, and even at Rome and Loretto, we were ne­ver in the least molested by those Adorers of Relicks and Images; for they are accustom'd to see Strangers enjoy a great deal of Freedom, and the roughest treatment we ever receiv'd from 'em was, to be greeted now and then with a Non sono Christiani.

'Tis impossible for a Traveller to leave Rome without reluctancy, but he must not stay there for ever; we are resolv'd to depart to morrow, early in the morning, and I have still some little Affairs to dispatch; I must beg leave therefore to conclude my Letter, and to assure you that I am,

SIR,
Your &c,

LETTER XXVII.

SIR,

WE found little or nothing worth our Observation between Rome and Viterbo, only there are someTowards the Wood of Bacca­no. Pieces of the Via Emilia still remaining, which I measur'd and found to be of equal breadth with other Consulary ways. The ancient Lake Cyminus, now call'd the Lake de Vico, is at the foot of a Hill of the same name, from the top of which we discover'd the Sea. This Mountain is very high, but the ascent to it is easie. It is almost all cover'd with Sycomores and Chesnut-trees, and we observ'd a great number of Primroses, Narcissus's, Hya­cinths, and other Flowers now in season growing upon it.

Viterbo is a City of indifferent bigness, almost wholly built of Stone, and enclos'd with a Wall.VITERBO. Beside the Steeples of the Churches, there are eight or ten square Towers which are seen at a distance, and make an odd kind of prospect: These were Forts or Retiring places, built by the richest Inhabitants, adjoining to their Houses, during the Fury of the Guelph and Gibelin Factions.

[Page 144] Schrader re­lates, That he saw in this City an ancient In­scription, which deserves to be inserted here: Marcum Tulli­um Ciceronem ob egregias ejus virtutes, singu­laresque animi dotes, per totum Orbem nostris Armis virtuteque perdomitum, Salvum & incolumem esse jubemus.You may find an Account of the Restaurati­on of the ancient Tuscan Name Viterbo, in the following Inscription, of which I took a Copy at the Town-house. Desiderius ultimus Insubrium Rex, Longulam, Vetuloniam, at (que) Volturnam, moeni­bus cingit, & Etruriae priore nomine inducto, Viter­bium mulctâ capitis indictâ appellari jubet. Sal. An. DCC. LXXIII.

There is another Inscription in the same place, which confirms the Donation made by the Countess Maud, of her Estate to the Papal See; Aeternae memoriae inclytae Mathildis, quae ob praestabile Religionis studium ac pietatem sedi Pontificiae suum hoc Patrimonium Divi Petri in Thusciâ dein nuncu­patum elargitur; & in veteran Ʋrbis ejus splendorem intuens Paschalis II. Bledem Pontifex Maximus, ejus Metropolim ut ante Viterbium constituit. An. S. 1113. It would be a hard task to produce such an au­thentic Testimony for theYou may find a Latin Version of it in Barth. Picerna and Aug. Steuchus, which is said to be a Translation of the pretended Greek Original at the Vatican. It is also inser­ted in Gratian's Decretals; but St. Antonin of Florence proves, that it is not mention'd in the old Decretals. And besides, N. Everard, L. Valla, R. Volaterranus, A. Alciat, J. Aventin, F. Vasquius, Cardinal Cusa, and Pope Pius II. himself, have solidly refuted this Fable. See also the Figmen­tum Donationis Constantini, by the Jesuite Jos. Cantelius, in his Treatise of Metropolitan Cities. Donation of the first Patrimony by Constantine. I remember I have somewhere read a pleasant Repartee of a Venetian Hieronymo Donato. Ambassador concerning this pretended Donation: TheAlexander VI. Pope being one day in a merry humour, ask'd him, in what part of the Venetian Annals their Title to the Adriatic Gulf was re­corded: [Page 145] If your Holiness, reply'd the Ambassador, will give your self the trouble to look upon the Con­tract of the Donation made to the Holy See by Con­stantine the Great, you will find our Title written on the back of it.

Tho' Desiderius's Inscription mentions only three Cities that were united under the Name of Viterbo, I have observ'd that this City is sometimes call'd Tetrapolis, and its Inhabitants Quaterni Populi. And you will find the Names of all the four Cities in the following Distick, which is on the top of the Stair-case of the Town-house.

Hanc Fanum, Arbanum, Vetuloni, Longula quondam
Oppida dant Ʋrbem: prima Elementa F.A.U.L.

Thus they pretend that the ancient Etrurian Viterbium was built by Isis and Osiris; and to confirm this Opinion, they produce some Greek and Latin Inscriptions, which mention the Anti­quity of their City. But having been inform'd at Rome, that these Inscriptions are Suppositious, and that 'tis generally believ'd they were made by John Annius the Dominican, commonly call'd Annius Viterbiensis, who made a Trade of suchJoannes An­nius dum Glo­riam quandam aucupari cona­tur, cudit novum Metasthenem (pro Megastenem) Berosum, Manethonem & Philonem, quos commentariis auctos in publicum emisit, & pretiosis hisce veterum Autorum titulis, toti Mundo fere imposuit. —Megasteni historias attribuit, de qui­bus nunquam cogitavit. Calvis Isag. Chron. c. 28. Forgeries, I would not lose time in transcri­bing 'em: and besides, they are very long, and written in a small and difficult Character.

[Page 146]In one of the Halls of this House there is a Picture that was made to preserve the memo­ry of a very extraordinary Accident. It re­presents innumerable swarms of Grashoppers; the Sun is darken'd, and the Earth cover'd with thick Clouds of these Insects, whichAnn. 1576. gnaw and devour every thing about Viterbium. All the People are in the Fields, endeavouring by se­veral means to deliver themselves from that Egyptian Plague. And the Cross and Banner are carried in procession, with the Holy Water, to conjure and curse these destroying Animals.

You may find an account an Orosius, of an Accident of the same nature that happen'd in Afric, in the year of the World 3825. He adds, That this Judgment was succeeded by so terrible a Plague that in Numidia alone there died Eight hundred thousand Men, and Thirty thousand Ro­man Soldiers. Surius, Baronius, and all other Writers of Chronicles, have stuff'd their Works with such Relations.I remember Mezeray relates an Instance of the same kind: In the Year 873, says he, about the Month of August, a prodigious number of flying Locusts made an incredible havock in France. They were an inch in thickness, and their Teeth were harder than Flints. They laid waste the bloom­ing Fields in an instant, and devour'd even the Barks of the Trees. They were driven by a strong Wind into the Britannic Sea, where they were drown'd; but the Waves throwing 'em upon the Shore in great heaps, their Corruption rais'd a Plague in the neigh­bouring Provinces. This Story is related at length in the Life of Charles the Bald.

MONTEFI­ASCONE.As we drew near to Montefiascone, a little Town seated on a Hillock, eight miles from Viterbium, the Children came out to meet us, asking whether we would see the Est, Est, Est. Perhaps you have already heard the Story; but 'tis so singular, that I'm resolv'd at all Ad­ventures to give you an account of it. A cer­tain [Page 147] Gentleman, or perhaps an Abbot or Bi­shop, as you will afterwards perceive, travelling from Germany to Italy, us'd to send his Servant before him, says the Tradition, to taste the Wine in all the Taverns on the Road, with Orders to write the word Est over the Door, where he found the best Liquor. Now, it happen'd that the Moscatello of Montefiascone pleas'd Mr. Taster's Palate to such a degree, that he thought it deserv'd a triple Encomium, and therefore wrote three Ests over the Door. And, it seems, the Master was no less pleas'd with it than the Man, for he drank so much of it, that he fell sick and dy'd on the spot. We went to see his Monument in St. Flavian's Church, about Two hundred paces from the Town, where he is represented with a Miter on his Head, and on each side of him there are twoQuarterly in the first — a Lyon,— in the second — two Fesses.— The Shield is not blazon'd. Scutcheons, with as many Drinking-glasses. At his Feet are these words in worn and half-Gothic Characters; Est, Est, Est, propt. nimium Est, Jo. de Fuc. D. meus mortuus est; that is, Est, Est, Est, for taking too much Est, my Master His Name, ac­cording to the Tradition, was John de Fucris. This is the Name of one of the greatest Fa­milies in Augs­burg. Jo. de Fuc. lost his Life. 'Tis plain that this Epitaph was made by his Servant; I remember I have seen it quoted in three or four places, but never without some Error.

In our Journey from this Town to Bolsena, we coasted, tho' at some distance, the Lake that bears its Name. This Lake is almost of an oval figure, and, as we were inform'd, forty miles in compass. There are two Islands in it call'd Martana and Passentina, to the first of which the unfortunate Amalasuntha Daughter of Theodoric King of the Goths was banish'd: she was [Page 148] afterwardsOr poinarded. strangl'd there by the order of her ingrateful Cousin Theodat, whom she had asso­ciated with her in the Government.

BOLSENA. Bolsena is a little inconsiderable Town; it was formerly an Episcopal See, but the Bisho­pric was afterwards transl [...]ted to Orvieto. On a rising ground behind it are the Ruins of the ancientOr Vulsinium. Volsinium, which, as Pliny relates, was reduc'd to Ashes by a Thunderbolt.

There cannot be a worse Country seen than all the way between Bolsena and Aquapendente. AQUAPEN­DENTE. The last-nam'd Town is very poor, and ill Peopl'd; yet it has enjoy'd the Title of a Bi­shopric ever since the destruction of Castro.

The utmost limit of the Pope's Dominions on this side is at the little Village Centino, at the foot of the Hill Radicofani. Radicofani. The Town andIt was first built by Deside­rius the last King of the Lombards. Citadel which bear that Name, if you take the whole year round, are half the time wrapp'd in Clouds on the top of that high Mountain. A furious Storm forc'd us to lye there; and we heard the Thunder as it were rumbling under our Feet during the whole night. Leaving Radicofani to proceed on our Journey towards Siena, we saw nothing but bare and almost wholly barren Mountains; but about eight or ten miles further the Land begins to grow better, towards the Burrough of St. Qui­rico: 'Tis true, this lasts not long, for about Torrinieri the Land is worse than ever, and we observ'd the same variety in all the Country thro' which we pass'd, till we approach'd Siena, which stands on a little and very rich Hill.

[Page 149] Siena is an Archbishopric,SIENA. the third City in Tuscany, and one of the most pleasant places in it. Its situation being high and low, makes it somewhat incommodious; but it enjoys a good Air, and its Streets are near, and almost all pav'd with Bricks laid sidewise: besides, the Houses are handsom, and the Waters excellent. Here the Tuscan Language is spoken in perfecti­on, without the roughness of the Florentines; and Strangers oftentimes chuse to reside here, when they apply themselves to the Study of the Italian Tongue.

The Cathedral is a Gothic Structure,There is a Cor­ridor that runs about the Body of the Church on the inside, a­dorn'd with the Statues of the Popes. Among the rest, there is one smooth­chin'd young Creature, said to be plac'd in the room of Pope Joan. I re­member I saw these Statues, but I must con­fess I did not examine 'em carefully. They are somewhat too high to be view'd without difficulty; and besides, I had not time to observe 'em. All the Authors I have yet seen, who deny the Story of the Popess, and mention this Statue, affirm unanimously, either that it is still remaining, or did really sub­sist heretofore. Baronius says, that it was taken away, and broken to pieces. Launoy, who wrote in the year 1634, assures us, that it was to be seen at that time. Blondel acknowledges the same as to the main, neither does he deny the Story of the other Statue at Rome, mention'd by Theodore de Niem, which was erected in the place where Pope Joan was deliver'd, and after­wards thrown into the Tiber by Sixtus the Fifth's Order; but he forgets to tell us what became of the first. Father Mabillon, who is the latest of all these Authors, not only confesses that there was such a Statue, but informs us that the Name of the Popess was express'd (Adpositum Statuae nomen fuit; Johannes VIII. Foemina de Anglia). But he adds, That under the Pontificat of Clement VIII, it was disfigur'd and transform'd into a Prophet Zachary, whose Name was written at the side of it. yet its beauty is so much the more remarkable that it is compleat in all its parts; for very few great Churches are ever perfectly finish'd. This is all cover'd over with Marble without and with in; and the Ornaments of its Architecture are not inferiour to any of their kind. The Pavement is of white and black Marble, the pieces of which are join'd together in the Quire after the manner of Inlaid or Mosaic Work. This Building was begun by Duccio, and finish'd by Dominic Beccafumi. The part next the Quire [Page 150] is the least damag'd, and is adorn'd with the Pictures of Abraham's Sacrifice, and the Passage thro' the Red Sea. The Arch'd Roof is azur'd, and strew'd with Stars of Gold.

From the Church we enter'd, without ascen­ding, into the place where the Library was formerly kept, to see those fine Pictures in Fresco, which represent the whole Story of Pope Pius the Second. They were design'd by Raphael after his first way of Drawing, but the Painting was perform'd by Pietro Perugin his Master,Most of these Faces represent Persons who were then alive. with Bernardin and Pinturicchio; they are finish'd Pictures, and inferiour to none of that nature in the World.Peter Damian says, That Souls fly every Sunday out of the Lake of Purgatory, in the shape of Birds, to take the fresh Air. The Pope's Soul flying up under the figure of a Bird of Paradise, and the ho­nest Hermit gazing on it, is a much esteem'd Piece.

If you are a stranger to the History of St. Katherine of Siena, you must first learn the Etymology of her Name, which, according to the Legend, is deriv'd from Katha; that is, says my Author, All, and Ruine, which signifies a falling down; because all the Devil's Edifice fell down in her: so that St. Katherine was form'd by a corruption of the word from St. Katharuine. I hope this will please you who are a Lover of Etymologies.

You must know, in the second place, that this Saint, while she liv'd at her House in Siena, was frequently visited by Christ, in propria persona, who after he had for some years entertain'd a holy and intimate correspondence with her, at last marry'd her according to the usual form of Matrimony, and would have his Wedding so­lemniz'd with a great deal of Ceremony. He [Page 151] made a Present to his Bride of a Gold Ring set with a Diamond between four Pearls. He invited his Mother to the Feast, with St. Peter, St. John, and St. Dominic, and order'd King David to entertain 'em with some Tunes on his Harp. I read this Story at Rome in a Description of the Church of St. Katherine in Strada Giulia, and I have seen the Picture of it in several places. At Siena they shew'd me the Saint's Chamber, and the very Window thro' which Christ was wont to enter, when he design'd to visit her incog­nito.

A Painter coming by chance into St. Domi­nio's Church, where she lay entranc'd, made bold to draw her Picture, without leave ask'd or given. They shew'd me this Image, and assur'd me, that it wrought abundance of Mi­racles, and that it has a singular Vertue to drive away Devil's, when 'tis presented to such as are possess'd with 'em.

You know, without doubt, that it was this Saint who gave the fatal Blow to the Scotists, in their Controversie against the Thomists, con­cerning the Immaculate Conception of the Virgin. For, besides several Arguments which they al­ledg'd to confirm their Opinion, they produc'd a Revelation of St. Bridget's, which had almost put their Adversaries to silence; but as ill luck would have it, up starts St. Katherine in the very nick, with a contrary Revelation, declaring po­sitively, That the Virgin was conceiv'd in Sin as well as other Women; and therefore she has been ever since as much slighted by the Scotists as she is honour'd by the Thomists.

[Page 152]There is a good Citadel at Siena, and fifteen or twenty square Towers like those at Viterbo. The Tower call'd Mangiana is particularly taken notice of by some for its extraordinary heighth, but they are only such who never saw any other that make this Observation.

The City of Siena bears for Arms the fa­mous She Wolf giving suck to the Royal Twins; and the same Animal is represented in several places on a Column. This proceeds from the fabulous Relations of some Authors, who pretend that Siena was built by the Chil­dren of Remus. The great Place is hollow like a Boat or Scollop-shell, and may upon occasion be fill'd with Water when any Fire happens in the City.

In our Journey from Siena towards the River Arno, we observ'd that the farther we proceed­ed, the Country grew still more level and fruitful. About Camiano, Granayola, Ponte d'Era, and between Pontgibon and Pisa, we found a se­cond Campagna felice, where there is abundance of every thing, and the Ways are extreamly pleasant.Pongibon. Poggi-bonzi is only famous for its Tobacco.

The Palace of the Signiory, and that of the Piccolomini built by Aeneas Sylvius, deserve a Traveller's Observation.The present season of the Year inspires all the World with Joy and Good-humour; and this Month is every where particularly remar­kable for Sports and Holy-days; but I never saw a more diverting Object than the Troops of young Girls, who regal'd us with Dances and Songs on all this Road, tho' perhaps the Ra­rity of the Sex might in some measure contri­bute to heighten the Pleasure we took in seeing 'em. Five or six of the prettiest and best attir'd [Page 153] Girls of the Village meet together, and go from House to House singing, and wishing every where a Merry May. All their Songs consist of a great number of Wishes, which are common­ly very pleasant; for they wish you may at once enjoy all the Pleasures of Youth, and of the blooming season; that you may be still possess'd with an equal Love, Morning and Evening; that you may live a hundred and two years; that every thing you eat may be turn'd to Sugar and Oyl; that your Clothes and Lace may never wear old; that Nature may smile eternally, and that the goodness of its Fruits may surpass the beauty of its Flowers, &c. And then come their spiritual Wishes; That the Lady of Loretto may pour down her Favours upon you; that St. Anthony of Padua may be your Guardian Angel; that St. Katherine of Siena may intercede for you. And for the Burthen of the Song, after every Stanza, A merry, merry May.

I observ'd near Certaldo, according to the Ad­vertisement you gave me, several Hills of Sand stuff'd with diverse sorts of Shells. Monte-mario, a mile from Rome, is also full of 'em; besides, I have found some of 'em on the Alps, in France, and elsewhere. Olearius, Steno, Camden, Speed, and many other Authors, both ancient and mo­dern, have taken notice of this Phaenomenon; and I read with a great deal of Pleasure the Dissertation you sent me on this subject: yet, since you desire me to deal plainly with you, I must tell you, that I am not of your Opinion as to the main.

[Page 154]If these Shells were the Remainders and an Effect of the Deluge, I would willingly be in­form'd why it did not rather leave 'em in deep Bottoms and Valleys, than throw up whole Mountains of 'em; and also, why they are so rarely found: for, it seems more agreeable to Reason, that they should have been scatter'd more universally upon the Face of the Earth, and not gather'd into heaps, as the few that are left are always found. I confess, 'tis not impos­sible that these Shells might be preserv'd ever since the Deluge, and therefore I will not insist on that Difficulty; only give me leave to tell you, that you seem to have a false notion of the Waters of the Deluge: for, to give a reason why those Shells, which you imagin to be Sea­shells, are found in the middle of the Land, you suppose that the Deluge was a Sea. But as for me, I conceive that the Water of that Inunda­tion which fell from Heaven, and was conse­quently sweeter and lighter than Salt-water, was not so thorowly mix'd and confounded with the Waters of the Sea, but that the one still preserv'd its freshness, and the other its saltness or bitterness, and each of 'em their particular Qualities. Which being granted, this Consi­deration alone will furnish us with Inferences (which I leave you to deduce) that are sufficient to destroy all your Conjectures.

Nor is it less in vain to have recourse to Winds, Storms, and Inundations for a solution of this Mystery. The way of Eruption, by which the new Vesuvius or Monte-nuovo was form'd, is not, I confess, to be altogether re­jected; for such Hills as are compos'd of Mud [Page 155] or Slime, and of sandy Earth mix'd with Shells, and other Marine Bodies, especially in Countries subject to Earthquakes, may well admit of such an Explication. But after all, I see no reason that should oblige us to take so wide a compass for a satisfactory solution of this Phaenomenon; for, to give you my thoughts of it in few words, I think it may be easily comprehended, that the same Vertue and Pro­perties by which Shells are generated in the Sea may also form 'em in the Land, since there are Substances equally fit for their production in both, and all the circumstances and means re­quir'd for their formation may be found in the latter as well as in the former. I will not en­ter into a nice enquiry, whether they are form'd by Vegetation, or to use the Phrase of some Authors, by Intro susception, almost after the same manner as Plants are suppos'd to be nourish'd; or by Juxta position and Incrustation, as Bezoar (whether Fossile or otherwise generated) is produc'd, or Stones grow in the Kidneys. But chuse which Hypothesis you will, and after you have dili­gently examin'd the Formation of Shells in those places which you call their natural Beds, it will appear, that the same account may be given of the Shells on the Hills of Certaldo as of those that are found on the shore at Leghorn, excepting only those that are said to be genera­ted with the Animals by the Seed in the Eggs.

I foresee one Objection which you will in­fallibly urge against me, if you be not prevented by a timely Answer. You will tell me, that Shells are inseparable from Fishes, Snails, or [Page 156] other such like Animals, for whose use alone Nature produces 'em, according to the common Axiom, That Nature does nothing in vain.

To dispatch this pretended Difficulty without wandering from the subject of our present Con­troversie, I shall only put you in mind of those Shells that are sometimes found in the Kidneys, Imposthumes, and Stomach, of which we have suchSee the Nou­velles de la Re­publique des Lettres for De­cember 1686. See also Pareus, and other Ana­tomical Writers. exact and late accounts, that the Matter of Fact is undoubtedly certain: for if I should ask you for what Creatures these Shells are ge­nerated, you must be forc'd to have recourse to some Distinctions of your Aphorism, which may be easily accommodated to my Hypothesis.

If you think to elude the force of these In­stances, by saying, That a Shell in an Im­posthume is a sort of Monster, from which we must not draw a general Conclusion; I answer, That I will neither dispute about Words, nor make too general Conclusions. If Shells in the Kidneys, or in Imposthumes, be call'd Monsters in your Dictionary, you may, if you please, bestow the same Title on those of Certaldo. Neither must you start new Difficulties, by com­paring the multitude of these with the small number of those others; for if the Kidney were as big as a Mountain, and contain'd as great a quantity of Matter fit for the formation of Shells, as the Hill of Certaldo, we should doubtless find Ten thousand Shells instead of one in that part of the Body; and Ten thou­sand Monsters of the same nature, form'd at the same time, in the same place, and by the same Accident, ought not to be reckon'd more than One.

[Page 157]I could easily answer all your Objections after the same manner, but, for a further illustration of my Hypothesis, I shall consider more particularly the word in vain, Nature does nothing in vain, 'tis true; but that Shells without Fishes are useless Productions of Nature, I deny. The variety of the Works of God in all his Creatures is universally acknowledg'd, and the reason of it is plain. Thus those Fossil Shells that are found in the Heart of Stones and Marble, were not made in vain; tho' they never enclos'd a Fish, nor any other living Creature. The Stones call'd Ammon's Horns, were not form'd in vain; tho' they never grac'd the Forehead of a Ram. The Tongue-like Stones, orOr Calchariae. The German Journal for the year 1661 makes mention of a Turnep that exactly resem­bled a Hand; and of a Mush­room from which six half-body'd Human Figures issu'd out. Glossopetra's of Malta, were not produc'd in vain; tho' they never wagg'd in the Mouth of an Animal. The same may be also said of the Stones call'd Astro­ites, Belemnites, Dactyli Judaei, and an infinite number of other variously shap'd Fossils resem­bling Plants, Fruits, Flowers, Animals, and Human Faces. And why then should Nature be confin'd from sporting her self in the pro­duction of Shells, and at the same time suffer'd to act on all other occasions with an uncon­troul'd Liberty, or, to speak more properly, with a perpetual and admirable Variety.

Pisa, the second City of Tuscany, PISA. Seat of an Archbishopric and University, and formerly a potent Republic, is situated on the River Arno, in an even and exactly level Plain. It is a great City, and once deserv'd the Name of a very lovely place. The Streets are large, streight, and pav'd with great Stones; and, generally [Page 158] speaking, the Houses are still well built. The Arno is navigable, twice as broad as the Tiber at Rome, and divides the City into two almost equal parts: 'tis pity that so fine a place should be so poor and ill inhabited; for the Grass is pretty high in several parts of it. This deso­late condition of Pisa is doubtless an Effect of the Miseries it suffer'd during its last War with the Florentins, for it was pillag'd and almost wholly ruin'd by those pitiless Conquerors. And 'tis plain, that the City of Leghorn lately built at the Haven of Pisa, has robb'd it of a great number of its Inhabitants▪

The structure of the Cathedral is not much unlike to that of the Church of Siena, but the former is greater than the latter, and much more advantageously situated in the middle of a fine Court or Yard. The Baptistery and fa­mous leaning Tower are two considerable Build­ings, in the same Court, about thirty or forty paces from the Church, on each side of it, and in the same line. It is overlaid with fine Mar­ble, and of an uniform Architecture.

By an Inscripti­on engrav'd on a Pillar in the Baptistery, it appears, that the Church was finish'd Anno 1153. The Ba­ptistery is 180 foot round. There was formerly a Pillar in the Baptistery, in which all the private Machinations against the State were discover'd, as in a Mirror.The Baptistery is round and arch'd, ending in a Cupola like St. Peter's Dome, or the Domes you have seen at Paris. There is an Eccho here that magnifies a Noise extreamly; and the sound of a Blow or Cry lasts as long in it as the tingling of a great Bell.

As for the Tower, some Authors are of opi­nion, that it was the Mason's Fancy to build it thus [Page 159] leaning; others say, That it does not really lean; but that the Eye is cheated by a secret and artificial contrivance of the Architect: And there are some who pretend, that it seems to lean to all sides, ac­cording to the different position of the Spectator. But they are all equally mistaken, and in vain strive to find out a Mystery where there is none; for any reasonable and attentive Considerer will be easily convinc'd by his own Observation, without further Proof, that the Tower does really lean, and that its inclination was acciden­tally occasion'd by the sinking of part of its Foundation. The heighth of this Tower amounts to One hundred eighty and eight feet,The Stairs that lead to the top of the Tower consist of 193 Steps. and it has the Figure of a perfect Cylinder: The Platform or Balcony on the top is surroun­ded with Rails, from whence having let fall a Plummet on the side that enclines most, after se­veral Tryals to the right and left hand, I found that my Lead touch'd the Ground exactly at the distance of fifteen feet from the Foundation.

The Burying-place call'd Campo Santo, be­cause of the Earth which the Pisans When they assisted Frederic the First, call'd Barbarossa, who took Jerusalem. brought from the Holy Land in the year 1228, is a kind of Cloyster, 190 paces long and 66 broad, comprehending the breadth of the Portico's. It contains a great number of Tombs: Here I ob­serv'd an ancient Inscription fix'd against the Wall under one of the Portico's, which is a De­cree of the City of Pisa, occasion'd by the death of Caesar, ordaining the People to wear Mourn­ing a whole year, and in the mean time to ab­stain from all public Divertisements.

[Page 160]I will not trouble you with a description of the Garden of Simples, or of the Collection of Natural Curiosities in the School of Physic; for I could not find any Rarities in 'em which I had not already seen in other places.

TheThey wear a red Cross on a black Cloak, and a flamecolour'd Collar. Knights of St. Stephen have their resi­sidence at Pisa. You are not ignorant that this is the Great Duke's Order, and that it was in­stituted by Cosmo I, in the yearOn the 6th of August, after he had gain'd the Battel of Mar­ciano. The Knights must be of Noble Blood, and born in lawful Wedlock. They vow Conjugal Chastity. Their Cross is like to that of Malta. Every one of 'em is oblig'd to say a hundred Pater Nosters, and as many Ave Maria's daily, and on certain occasions they double the Dose. 1561. The Church of the Order is very full of Standards, Ship-Lanthorns, and other Spoils taken from the Turks; and over against it, in the Place, is the Statue of the Founder.

LEGHORN. Pisa is fourteen miles distant from Leghorn: The interjacent Country is flat, and the Way lies for the most part through Woods of ever green Oaks, Cork-Trees, and Wild Myrtles. 'Tis said, that all these Forests were formerly cover'd by the Sea, which reach'd within three miles of Pisa, to a place where there is now a great Church, at the entry of the Woods. They tell us, That one day, as St. Peter was fishing, there arose a Tempest, which drove him to this very place, where he was shipwreck'd. And they add, That he erected an Altar there, about which the Church was built by a certain Pope some Ages afterward. It would be needless to relate the rest of the Story.

[Page 161]I have already told you, that Leghorn is a modern City; it is situated on a flat Ground, and surrounded with handsom Fortifications cover'd over with Brick: the Streets are large, streight as a Line, and parallel; the Houses are generally of equal heighth, and almost all painted on the outside.Most of the Painting was done by Aug. Tasso, a Native of Bologna. The Harbour is not so well stor'd with Ships as several others, but the Trade of the Bank is very considerable. This is the only Sea-Port in the Dukedom of Tuscany, and the station of the Great Duke's Galleys. There is a House built on purpose for the Slaves, or a kind of Hospital, in which they lye, contrary to the Custom of all other pla­ces.

In our Journey from Leghorn to Lucca we were forc'd to pass a second time thro' Pisa, three miles on this side of which we saw the rugged Mountain of St. Julian, which divides Tuscany from the Signiory of Lucca.

Lucca is situated in the midst of a fertile Plain, which extends fifteen or twenty miles,LUCCA. according to its various dimensions, and is sur­rounded with very rich and well-inhabited Hillocks. The Fortifications of the City are pretty regular, and well lin'd, but their Foun­dations are level with the Plain. We walk'd round the Ramparts in one hour, which is an Argument of the smallness of the Town; but to make amends, it contains many great Hou­ses, and exceeds Pisa in the number of its Inha­bitants by almost one half.

[Page 162]Here they carried us to see the Palace of the Republic, where theVexillifer, or Standard-bearer. Gonfalonnier lodges with his nine Counsellors call'd Anziani. We were inform'd, that these Magistrates do also usually eat together in this Palace, while their Wives and Families in the mean time live at home. The State of Lucca is a Fief of the Empire, and under its protection: The Government is purely Aristocratical, for the Soveraignty is lodg'd in the Council of Two hundred and forty No­bles, who are divided into two Bodies, which succeed one another every six months, with the Gonfalonnier at their Head. The Office of this Chief Magistrate of the Republic is not unlike to that of the Doges of Venice and Genoua, save only in this respect, that he continues but two months in the possession of the supreme Digni­ty, by which he receives no other Advantage than the maintaining of his Table at the pub­lic Charge, during that time. He wears a Bon­net and Stole, with a Robe of Crimson Velvet, and has the Title of a Prince, tho' he is only stil'd His Excellency. He may be chosen again to the same Dignity, after an interval of six years; and his ordinary Guard consists of threescore Switzers.

From the Palace we enter'd into the Arsenal, where there is a considerable quantity of Arms for so small a State, and besides, they are kept in good order.

From thence we went to the Cathedral, to see the Chapel of the Volto Santo. 'Tis said, That Nicodemus having often attempted in vain to paint a Crucifix, the Angels that beheld his fruitless Labours took his Pencil from him, and [Page 163] finish'd this Piece. They cannot give a posi­tive account how this Picture was first brought to the Church of St. Fredian, but they assur'd us, that it remov'd from thence to the Cathe­dral, and remain'd hanging in the Air in the same place where we saw it, till they had built an Altar under it, on which it rested, and about which they afterwards built a magnificent Cha­pel. This Image does not work so many Mira­cles as several others; but every thing that it does is wonderful in the highest degree. 'Tis the principal Object of the Devotion of these People, and they stamp it on their Coyn with the Arms of the Republic.

You may easily imagin that this Crucifix met with a very kind reception at the Cathedral;The Cathedral is dedicated to St. Martin. yet 'tis hard to divine the Reason why it pre­ferr'd St. Martin to St. Fredian, since 'tis certain that this City was much more oblig'd to the latter than to the former. The number of the Favours and good Offices it receiv'd from him is almost infinite; but his saving it from the Inundation of the Cerchio deserves to be parti­cularly remember'd. One day, when St. Fre­dian was at Lucca, The River is at present two or three miles di­stant from Lucca. the River began to swell prodigiously, and threatned the City with a dreadful Inundation; but the holy Man com­manded it immediately to change its course, and to follow him without murmuring whither­soever he should conduct it; and his Orders were instantly obey'd, to the great Joy and Astonishment of all the People.

In the same Saints Church there is a Marble Table seventeen foot long, about six and a half broad, and fourteen inches thick, the Story of [Page 164] which is contain'd in the following Inscription. O quisquis legis, lapis es, ni lapis hic te moveat in admirationem & culium D. Frediani, qui templo huic construendo, molem hanc in montibus ad quar­tum lapidem nactus, viribus impar, sed spiritu fervens, mirâ facilitate manibus humerisque suis & Canonico­rum in plaustrum binis indomitis vacculis trahendum impositum, sexto salutis saeculo, hac in Aede statuit sa­crum Monumentum.

In the middle of the same Church we took notice of a Tomb-stone with these words in­scrib'd upon it, Hic jacet corpus Sancti Riccardi Regis Angliae: Here lyes the Body of St. Richard King of England. I cannot imagine who this Royal Saint should be,Sirnam'd Coeur de Lion. Richard I. if my Memo­ry does not deceive me, dy'd in France of a Wound, after his return from his Voyage be­yond Sea, and was interr'd in the Abbey of Fontevraut. Richard II. was dethron'd by the Parliament and the Duke of Lancaster, and af­terwards stabb'd at Pomfret, from whence his Body was carried first to St. Paul's, then to Langley, and at last to Westminster, where his Tomb still remains. And Richard III, who was no more a Saint than his two Predecessors of the same Name, but rather a very wicked man, was slain at Bosworth in Leicestershire, and buried in the City of Leicester. Besides, I do not re­member that ever there was a King Richard in England before the reunion of the Heptarchy. So that this Epitaph puzzl'd us all: However, I will not at present entertain you with our Conjectures concerning it, but you will do us a singular pleasure by communicating yours to us.

[Page 165]I cannot forbear relating to you the Story of our Lady of St. Austin's, for perhaps you never heard of a more pleasant Trick play'd by an Image. A certain Souldier having lost conside­rably at Dice, fell into a rage, and at last laid the blame of his ill Fortune on our Lady, who was then plac'd against the Wall of the Court of Guard, and after he had call'd her a thou­sand hard Names, to crown his Insolency, he threw a Stone at her, which was levell'd direct­ly against the Head of the little Jesus. But our Lady, says the Story, perceiving the danger, pre­vented the blow, by tossing her Child so nimbly from her right Arm to her left, that he receiv'd not the least hurt.

To preserve the Memory of this Event, the little Jesus stuck so close to his Mother's left Arm, that she could not with all her strength bring him to his former place; so that she was e'en forc'd to let him have his Humour, and he re­mains upon her left Arm to this very day, which is look'd upon as an undeniable Argument of the Truth of the Story, by the devout Pilgrims who come to visit this Image. To make an end of the Story, the Earth open'd on a sud­den, and swallow'd up the impious Soldier. The Hole is still there, and these charitable Devotees are very careful to admonish the curious Stranger not to come near it, because it is, in their Opinion, the very Mouth of Hell: but certainly such a dangerous place ought to be rail'd in.

You are not ignorant that several nobleCalendrini, Burlamachi, Turretini, Micheli, and some others. Fa­milies of Lucca retir'd to Geneva, about the time of the Reformation.

[Page 166]The Country between Lucca and Florence is fertile and well cultivated.PISTOYA. Pistoya is in the middle, twenty miles distant from each of 'em. This is a very poor and desolate City, especial­ly since it lost its liberty; for tho' it can make a shift to live on the fat of the Land, it can ne­ver grow rich without Trade, of which it is wholly destitute. It is bigger than Lucca; its Streets are large and streight, and the Remain­ders of its ancient Beauty are sufficient to con­vince us that it was formerly a fine City.

The Inhabitants of Pistoya have a particular veneration for St. James, because they were for­merly assisted by him, and have still a great num­ber of his Relics. He has a Chapel in the Cathedral,The Altar is co­ver'd with Plates of Silver, and surrounded with Lamps of great value. Citta Pistoyese, chiare case, oscure Chiese. The City of Pistoya has light Houses and dark Churches. where I observ'd a Prayer directed to him, in which he is call'd the First or Chief of the Apostles; Tu qui primatum tenes inter Aposto­los, imo qui eorum primus, &c.

Some think the Factions of the Guelphs and Gibelins were so call'd from Guelph and Gibel, two Brothers and Gentlemen of Pistoya, of whom the elder espous'd the Quarrel of Pope Gregory the Ninth, while the second asserted the Interest of the Emperor Barbarossa. But I should rather embrace the Opinion of those who derive the Names of those Factions from the illustrious and potentAbout the Confines of Italy and Germany, on the Upper Rhine. See Maimb. of the Decadence of the Empire, l. 5. Families of the Guelphs and Gibellins, who were at enmity with one another, long be­fore their Jealousies and Animosity were rais'd to the utmost heighth, by their declaring, one for the Emperor, and t'other for the Pope.

[Page 167]The above-mention'd Etymology of St. Kathe­rine will, I'm afraid, appear so ridiculous to you, that you will perhaps be tempted to susp [...]ct I invented it; but I assure you I took it from the famous Golden Legend: and both to clear my self of such a suspicion, and to divert you after so long a Letter, I shall sub­join some other Etymologies of the same stamp, which I read not long ago, and remember pret­ty exactly.

To begin with St. Christina, my Author tells you, That her Name signifies anointed with Cream, because she had the Balm of Sweet Odour, and the Oil of Devotion. Would you not have dis­cover'd this rare Etymology at the first glance?

Damian, he proceeds, had his Name from the Hand of God, Main de Dieu, because he wrought divinely. Beatrix is an Abridgment of two Words, Blessed and Sad, Benoiste and Triste. Martin was so call'd, because he kept the Field of Battel against Vices; or as one should say, Ung des Mar­tyrs, des Martyrs ung, d' Martyrs in, Martyrin, Martin. And is not this as plain as the deriva­tion of Equus from Alfana, or of the word Lackey from Verna? George comes from Ge or Earth, and Orge, Barley, that is a Cultivater of Barley. Siphorian is deriv'd from Symphony, for he chanted the sweet Tunes of Virtue. Maurice comes in a streight line from Amen and Cis, that is Vomiting hard, and Us, which signifies Counsel­lor, or Hasty. Vomiting, by reason of his throw­ing off Superfluities; Hard, because be endur'd Tor­ments; Counsellor, because he admonish'd the Knights his Companions; and Hasty, from the ardour of his Zeal. This is as clear as a Sun-beam. [Page 168] S. Gorgonian is originally deriv'd from Gorgos, which signifies Subject, or from Gonos, that is, an Angel, and Denan, which is interpreted Fruit, for he was Subject to God without an Angel, and was afterwards made new Fruit by Martyrdom. Alexis is as one should say issant de Loy, issuing out of the Law, for he issued from the Law of Marriage to pre­serve his Virginity. Jerome comes from Norma, a Rule; Cecilia from Lis du Ciel, the lilly of Hea­ven; Cyprian from Cypris; Saturnian from Sa­turace nuce, because the Pagans and Heathens glut­ted themselves with his Torments, as the Crow gluts her self with devouring Nuts. When you have a mind to a second Service, my venerable Legend will furnish you with a plentiful one; but I be­lieve you have enough at present. I am,

SIR,
Your &c.

LETTER XXVIII.

SIR,

I Would not neglect the occasion of writing to you the day after our arrival at Florence, tho' I could not then give you any account of this lovely City. We have seen so many things in it since, that my Journal would furnish me with sufficient matter for a Volume. But, in pursuance of my wonted method, I shall in the first place give you a brief description of it, and afterwards proceed to communicate some particular Observations, which perhaps will be new to you.

Florence, the chief City of Tuscany, Seat of an Archbishop, and Residence of the Great Duke, FLORENCE the Fair. is situated on the River Arno, as it were in the middle of the Arena or bottom of an Amphi­theater. At the distance of four or five miles, excepting only the side that looks towards Pi­stoya, it is surrounded with very fertile Hillocks, which rise insensibly, and by degrees unite themselves to the high Mountains. The vast number of Houses which cover both the little Hills, and the interjacent Plain, make a very delightful and admirable Prospect. If from one of the Towers of Florence you took a view of this large Bottom, so full of Villages and Hou­ses [Page 170] of Pleasure, you would think it were an al­most infinite continuation of the Suburbs of the Town; and it may be justly said, that this rich and delicious Valley is the best inhabited place in the World.

I was inform'd by a curious and exact Per­son, that the Walls of this City are just Fifteen thousand Two hundred and forty Brasses or Fathoms in compass; and that the River Arno, which runs thro' it, is Five hundred Fathoms broad; so that reckoning the double breadth of the River, with the circumference of the Walls, the Circuit of Florence amounts in all to Sixteen thousand Two hundred and forty fa­thoms. Three of these Fathoms make exactly five Feet and eight Inches English measure; and consequently 16240 Fathoms amount to Thirty thousand six hundred and seventy five Feet, which you may reduce as you think fit. The City is pretty round.

The same Person assur'd me, that Florence contains within its Walls Eight thousand and eight hundred Houses, Sixty thousand Souls, Two and twenty Hospitals, Eighty and nine Convents, Fourscore and four Fraternities, a Hundred fifty and two Churches, Eighteen Halls or Galleries belonging to Merchants, Seventy and two Courts of Justice, six Columns, two Pyramids, four Bridges, seven Fountains, seventeen Places or Courts, and a Hundred and sixty public Statues. The Streets are pav'd with large pieces of a greyish Stone, call'd Pietra forte, which is brought from the neigh­bouring Quarries. A good number of the Houses are built with the same Stone, and [Page 171] many of 'em are extraordinarily large and beautiful. And even there are some who pre­tend that the Florentine Palaces, to speak after the Italian manner are the handsomest Structures in Italy.

TheNear the great Gate of this Palace there is a large Magnet, which was spoil'd by the Fire. Spon says, that it weighs 5000 pounds. Palace Pitti, where the Great Duke lodges, is a magnificent Building, and extoll'd beyond measure by the People of the Country. Yet I observ'd one fault in it, which is the lit­tleness of the Court with respect to the Build­ing: you will be of the same opinion after I have told you, that the heighth of the Palace to the Cornish of the third Order amounts to a hundred and twenty two feet, and yet the Court is but a hundred and sixty foot long, and a hun­dred and forty broad: so that you cannot chuse a place in all the Court to view the Palace, with­out lifting up your Head in a very troublesome manner.

Before we enter'd into the old Ducal Palace,The four Statues of white Marble on the Bridge of the Trinity re­present the four Seasons. They were made by Michael Angelo. where all those rare and precious things are to be seen that make so great a noise in the World, we took a view of the Statues in the Place or Court. I shall only name these following; the David, by Michael Angelo; the Judith, by Dona­telli; the fair Sabin Woman violently carried away, by John of Bologna; the Perseus of Brass, by Cellini; the Hercules and Cacus, by Bandinelli; and the Brass Statue on Horseback of Cosmo I, by John of Bologna. These are all admirable Pieces. The three Basso-relievo's on the Pedestal of the last-nam'd Statue represent Cosmo I. kneel­ing before the Pope toObzelum Re­ligionis, praeci­puumque Justi­tiae Studium. receive from him the Title of Great Duke; the same Prince making his public entry into Florence in a kind of trium­phal [Page 172] Chariot; and the Ceremony that was so­lemniz'd when the Senate of Florence resign'd the Soveraign Authority to him, by investing him with the Ducal Dignity.

The great Gallery of the Palace is almost Four hundred foot long; the underfretting of the Roof is painted; and we walk'd between two Ranks of Statues and Busts, which are al­most all Antique Pieces. On the top, against the Wall, are the Portraictures of the ancient Philosophers on one side, and those of famous Captains on the other.

The Characters on the Hem of his Gown are thought to be of the ancient He­truscan Lan­guage. It is a very fine Statue.Among the most beautiful and rare Statues they made us observe in the first place that of Brass which is cloth'd and thought to be Scipio's; the Leda receiving Jupiter's Embraces with a pleasure mix'd with shame; the antique Bacchus, accompanied with a Copy by Michael Angelo not inferiour to the Original; the Julia Daughter of Augustus, the Pomona, the Venus, the Diana, the Apollo, another Bacchus, the Peasant striking a Boar, the Busts of all the Emperors to Galienus, and especially those of Adrian, Pertinax, and Severus.

From this Gallery we pass'd thro' several Chambers full of Rarities. I observ'd in the first a branch'd Candlestick of great pieces of Amber, a fair Column of Oriental Alabaster, a Rhinoceros's Horn of an unusual bigness, many Basso-relievo's, and other antique Sculptures; Me­dals, Idols, and Sepulchral Lamps; Stones, Mi­nerals, and other natural Curiosities.

[Page 173]In the second there is nothing but Pictures. Here they us'd formerly to show an Iron Nail, one half of which, they pre­tended, was chang'd to Gold; but they have left off exposing it, since 'twas discover'd that the Miracle con­sisted wholly in the Sodering. The third is call'd the Chamber of Mathematics, where among other things there are Globes and a Sphere, which contain seven feet in dia­meter. The fourth is hung with Pictures, which exceed those of the second; besides which, I took notice particularly of a Cabinet of Ebony, with its Ornaments of Amber, Ivory, and pre­cious Stones; the great rough Emerald rooted in its Rock; and the Platform of Leghorn de­scrib'd on a Table of Lapis Lazuli. The Pi­ctures of illustrious Persons of the present Age are the principal Ornaments of the fifth Cham­ber. Among the Generals of Armies and great Captains, I observ'd three Englishmen, Cromwel, General Monk, and the late Earl of Ossory, Son to the present Duke of Ormond. In the sixth there are a Hundred thirty and seven Pictures of the most famous Painters, done by them­selves. The seventh is adorn'd with Vessels of Porcelain. And the five following are full of an amazing number and variety of Curiosities. They contain also great store of Arms of all Fashions and of all Countries, among which we took notice of a Musket with a Golden Barrel. Here is also the great Magnet, which us'd formerly to lift up fifty pounds of Iron, but at present its Vigor is much diminish'd. And theThis Horse was presented to the last Great Duke by the late Duke Charles of Lor­rain. Horse-Tail, which is twenty foot long, may be justly reckon'd among these Curio­sities.

The most precious and valuable Rarities are kept in the Octogonal Room, call'd theBuilt by Buontalenti. Tribune, which is twenty foot in diameter, and is co­ver'd with an arch'd Dome. The Floor is [Page 174] pav'd with several sorts of Marble artificially laid together; the Walls are hung with Crim­son Velvet, beautified with an infinite number of rare Ornaments; the Windows are of Cry­stal; and the inside of the Dome is overlaid with Mother of Pearl. Nothing is admitted into this place but what is of great value and exquisite Beauty. You have doubtless read, in Tavernier's Travels, the description of that love­lyThis Diamond weighs a hun­dred thirty and nine Carats and a half. 'Tis pity says Tavernier, that the Water or Lustre of it approaches to a Citron-colour. Diamond which justly claims the first rank among the Jewels of this Cabinet. Among other Rarities these deserve to be mention'd: an antique Head of Julius Caesar of one entire Turquoise as big as an Egg; a Cupboard full of Vessels of Agat, Lapis Lazuli, Cornelian, and Crystal of the Rock, the whole garnish'd with Gold and fine Jewels; a large Table and Cabi­net of inlaid Work, wholly compos'd of orien­tal Jasper, Calcedony, Rubies, Topazes, and other Precious stones admirably well wrought; a Collection of very rare Medals; a prodigi­ous number of antique Pieces of carv'd and engrav'd Work, very entire, and extreamly well kept; select Pictures, or, to speak more properly, Masterpieces of the most excellent Painters; six Grecian Statues unconceivably beau­tiful; two Men wrestling; the Peasant whet­ting his Bill, and at the same time listening to Catiline's Conspiracy; a Fawn; a sleeping Cupid; a Venus six foot high, and another smaller by a foot, both of white Marble.

You will quickly know the last, when I have told you, that it is the famous Venus of Medicis. It must be acknowledg'd that this is the most charming Body, and the finest piece of Work­manship [Page 175] in the World. The Head of this in­comparable Statue is turn'd a little towards her left Shoulder;On the Base, which is of the same piece of Marble with the Statue, these are written, [...] Made by Cleo­menes Son of Apollodorus the Athenian. she holds her right Hand be­fore her Bosom, but at some distance; and with the other Hand she covers the part which Ladies blush to discover, which she does also without touching it. She bows down gently, and advances her right Knee, as it were to hide her self better if she could. That decent bashfulness which is so becoming an Ornament of the Fair Sex, with a spotless Modesty and Chastity are painted on her Face, and accom­panied with a Sweetness, Beauty, Delicacy, and Air of Youth, that are altogether inexpressible. She wants nothing but Voice and Colour. Her round and tender Arm cleaves insensibly to her lovely Hand; her Neck is admirable; and, to conclude, this rare Masterpiece is a perfect imi­tation of the fairest Nature.

From this Palace we pass'd thro' a little Gal­lery of Communication to the ancient Palace of the Republic, where we saw the Furniture of the Wardrobe, and the rich Coach that was made for the solemnity of the Great Duke's Marriage. The great Hall of this Palace is a hundred seven­ty and two foot long, and seventy four in breadth.

The Cathedral is a very large and stately Building, tho' several parts of it are of a Gothic Architecture. It is all cover'd over, within and without, and pav'd throughout with polish'd Marble of several Colours. Its length amounts to Four hundred and ninety feet, and its height to the top of the Cross on the Globe to Three hundred and eighty. 'Tis impossible to be wea­ry [Page 176] of viewing this noble Structure; but 'tis pity that it has not a Frontispiece.

The finest Statues in this Church are, the St. James, by Sansovin, against one of the Pillars which support the Dome; the Adam and Eve behind the great Altar, by Bandinello; the Statue of God the Father, the Dead Christ, and the An­gel supporting him, on the same Altar, and by the same Hand. Critics find fault with Eve, because she is of greater stature than her Hus­band.

The Painting in the Dome represents the Resurrection, and is the Work of Fred. Zucchero. It is highly esteem'd, tho' the Painter is blam'd for representing his Rising Bodies cloth'd and of different ages.

See before Letter XXIII, & XXV.But we observ'd a more considerable Fault, or rather an intolerable Blunder, in a Picture in the same Church, which nevertheless was made by Paul Ʋccello, a very skilful and celebrated Artist. He has painted aG. Acutius an Englishman, General of the Pisan Forces. General of an Army on Horseback, and has made the Horse rest on the two Legs on the same side, while the other two are in motion: such a Mistake might per­haps be excus'd in a Venetian, who was never out of that City, where Horses are as great Rarities as Elephants.

The Pieces of Moses's and Aaron's Rods are two of the most curious Relics in the Cathedral, tho' they seem to be of doubtful credit, since both the entire Rods are said to be at St. John de Lateran.

The Steeple is very near the Church, which is a square Tower a hundred and eighty foot high, overlaid with square pieces of red, white, [Page 177] and black Marble, and adorn'd with several Statues. The old bald Man, by Donatelli is an excellent Piece. 'Tis said that Sculptor pre­ferr'd his Zuccon before all his other Works, for that Figure represented one of his Friends, and really merited a particular Esteem.

The Baptistery is lin'd in the same manner as the Church, and its Structure is almost like to that of the Baptistery at Pisa; 'tis believ'd that it was formerly a Temple of Mars. After the Alterations that were made in it, when the Ca­thedral was built, it was appointed to serve for a Baptistery, and dedicated to St. John Baptist. The Mosaic Work on the arch'd Roof is much valu'd; and among the Statues contain'd in this Temple, the Magdalen of Wood, by Donatelli, is particularly esteem'd. But the most admir'd Pieces are, the three brazen Gates, adorn'd with Basso-relievo's representing some sacred Histories. That on the Back-side, with this Inscription, Andreas Ʋgolini de Pisis me fecit 1330. is the least considerable, the other two are singularly beau­tiful. They never forget to tell Strangers, that Michael Angelo thought he could not admire 'em sufficiently, and esteem'd 'em worthy to be the Gates of Heaven.

Dum cernit valvas aurato ex aere nitentes
In Templo Michael Angelus, obstupuit.
Attonitusque diu, sic alta silentia rupit,
Near the Church of the Trinity there is a fair Column of Por­phyry, which supports a Statue of Justice greater than the Life. 'Tis said, that this Column was formerly in the Pantheon, and that it was given by the Pope to Cosmo I, Gal. Guald. Prior. There is a Proverb at Florence, which says, That Justice stands so high that none can reach it.
O Divinum Opus! O Janua digna Polo!

[Page 178]In the Court opposite to the middle Gate of this Baptistery, there are two Columns of Por­phyry chain'd together, tho' they stand at some distance from each other. The Story says, That the Florentins having assisted the Pisans to conquer some part of the Isle of Majorca, ask'd two Pillars, which they found among the Spoils of the Enemies. Some add, That the Pisans being loth to part with these Monuments, but not daring to refuse 'em to their Allies, spite­fully tarnish'd their Lustre in the Fire, and sent 'em in that condition cover'd with Velvet. But this Circumstance is deny'd by others.

I had almost forgot to mention the other Column which stands not far from the former: it was set up for a Memorial of a pretended Miracle which happen'd in that place, when the Body of St. Zenobius was remov'd from St. Law­rence's to the Cathedral. His Shrine, says the Tradition, touch'd by chance the Trunk of a dry Tree which lay there, and immediately the Tree blossom'd, and put forth both Flowers and Fruit; I have forgot the rest of the Story.

St. Lawrence's Church is very large and rich; and I may venture to say, without being guil­ty of a Hyperbole, that the famous Chapel, on which they have wrought so long, and with so much assiduity, will, when finish'd, be the finest Edifice of that nature in the World. I dare not undertake to describe it, but I cannot forbear to give you some Idea of it.

This magnificent Chapel is very large and high. In the middle of each Face of the Hexagon there rises a double Pilaster of Jasper, with a double Chapiter of Brass gilt, the Base being also of the same matter. On the Pedestal [Page 179] of each Pilaster there are several Emblematical Figures compos'd of Precious Stones joyn'd to­gether with all the Art imaginable. In the six Angles there are six stately Tombs of Porphyry, Oriental Granate, and some other of the most precious kinds of Marble. On each Tomb there is a great'Tis said, that each Pillow cost Sixty thousand Crowns. Pillow of Jasper enrich'd with divers sorts of Jewels, and on each Pillow a Crown, which is yet a great deal richer. The Pedestal or Base that supports the Tombs is overlaid with Porphyry and Calcedony, on which will be engrav'd the Epitaphs of the Princes for whom these Tombs are design'd. Their Statues of Brass gilt, twice as big as the Life, will be plac'd in the Niches of black Marble that are already prepar'd in the Wall over the Tombs. The inner Roof of the Dome will be of pure Lapis Lazuli, with Roses and other Ornaments gilt. All the rest of the Walls is lin'd in Compartments with fine Agats, rare Granates, Onyxes, and all sorts of Stones that are esteem'd precious; each Pannel being divi­ded into squares, and embellish'd with other Or­naments of Copper gilt. The Altar will surpass all the other parts of this admirable Structure; and to comprehend the Beauties of 'em all, your Imagination must rise higher than my im­perfect Description is able to carry it.

The Library of St. Lawrence is particularly fa­mous for its Manuscripts. It is Fourscore Brasses or Fa­thom in length; and Twenty in breadth. The Fathom of Florence is equal to two Roman Feet; and the Ro­man Foot is shorter by six Lines than the English. See the Instructions to a Traveller at the end of this Volume. In this Library there is a Manuscript Virgil, of the Age of Theodosius. There is also a large Greek Manuscript, con­taining the Chyrurgery of the Ancients, of Hippocrates, Galen, Asclepiades, Bithynus, Apollonius, Archigenes, Nymphodorus, Heliodorus, Diocles, Rufus Ephesius, and Apollodorus Citiensis; with the manner of curing Dislocations describ'd in Figures painted on Vellum. This is a great Treasure, being the only Work of this nature now known to be extant. Spon. I shall take this occa­sion [Page 180] to tell you, that M. Magliabecchi could not favour me with a sight of St. Chrysostom's Letter to Caesarius, having receiv'd express Orders from the Great Duke not to communicate it to any person whatsoever. But you may inform our Friend, that M. Magliabecchi positively assur'd me, that the Passage cited by Martyr is contain'd word for word in that Manuscript.

We went also to the Church of the Holy Cross, principally to see the Tomb of Michael Angelo; which is certainly a very considerable Monument; tho', in my opinion, not altogether suitable to the Merit of so great a person. In the Chapel belonging to the Family of the Zanchini, in the same Church, we observ'd on the Altar a Picture by Angelo Bronzini, in which Christ is represented delivering the Souls of the Fathers; among whom there are many Female Spirits that ap­pear too gay and airy for an Altar-piece. And even some say, That she who bears the Name of Eve is the true Resemblance of the Painter's Mistriss. They add also, that the Figure of a Man at the right corner of the Picture below, looking stedfastly on the pretended Eve, is Bron­zini's own Phiz. This puts me in mind of Pin­turicchio, who, in the Vatican, painted Pope Alexander the Sixth prostrate at the Feet of Julia Farnese, under pretext of making him adore the Virgin.

Among the holy Rarities we observ'd in the Churches, besides the Rods of Moses and Aaron, which I mention'd before, I shall only name the Hood St. Francis wore when he was stigma­tiz'd, which is to be seen in the Church of All-Saints. Two of Judas's thirty pieces of Silver [Page 181] which are preserv'd in the Annunei [...], and the Crucifix that spoke to St. Andrew [...] Ʋrsina, which is in the Church of the Carmelites.

The Monks of St. Mark make excellent Bal­sams, and prepare all manner of Perfumes: we bought some of 'em, and had sometimes the pleasure to walk in their Cloysters and odorife­rous Gardens, where we breath'd nothing but Oranges and Jesmins: But the truth is, there is not any part about Florence that is not altoge­ther charming. The Great Duke has several fine Houses, of which we only saw Poggio Imperiale, and Pratinola. These are very pleasant places; and I may even venture to say they have Beau­ties that are not common. But the magnificency of Gardens and Waterworks is advanc'd to such a heighth in France, that the best way to save the Credit of Frescati and Pratinola, is to pass over in silence all their petty Wonders that were for­merly so highly extoll'd.

We visited also the Arsenal, and the Citadel of St. John Baptist, which is a strong place, and kept in good order. But the two Forts of Belvedere and St. Miniato are in a manner wholly neglected.

The Great Duke has diverse Nurseries for se­veral sorts of Animals. Villani relates,In the Hospital ad Scalas there is the Tomb and Epitaph of a hu­man Monster who had two Heads and four Hands on one Body. This dou­ble man (nam'd Peter and Paul) had different Affections. One of the Heads wept, while the other laugh'd; and slept while his Companion was awake. This Monster liv'd Twenty years and Twenty days. Schrader. That in the year 1331, two young Lions were cubb'd at Florence, who liv'd to grow great: The same Author writes, That at another time a Lion made his escape out of his Hole, and terrified the whole City; that having met a young Child, [Page 182] whom he lifted up between his Paws without hurting it, the astonish'd Mother ran with Cries and Tears to the ravenous Animal, who looking stedfastly upon her, restor'd the Child, without offering the least Violence to either of 'em.

I must not conclude this Letter without men­tioning those Stones found on the Mountains near Florence, which being saw'd thro' the mid­dle, and afterwards polish'd, some of 'em re­present several sorts of Trees, and others are mark'd with the Figures of Towns and ruin'd Castles. Kircher calls the former Dendrites, from the Images of Trees that appear on 'em; and the same Author makes several curious Remarks on this occasion, which I will not insist upon in this place, since doubtless you remember 'em as well as I.

There is one thing more which I must not forget to tell you; for tho' Florence is certainly one of the finest Cities in the World, and has the advantage of a most delicious situation, yet it must appear a very sad and melancholy place to those who are accustom'd to enjoy the Pleasures of Society. Sir — D. who, you know, has resided here for several years, is not able to express his uneasiness under the intolerable Con­straint and eternal Ceremonies of this place, and particularly exclaims against the Invisibility of the beautiful Sex; and indeed, these Customs can never be endur'd by any but such as are ac­custom'd to 'em from their Infancy. I am,

SIR,
Your &c.

LETTER XXVIII.

SIR,

WE could not find one Litter at Florence, to carry us to Bologna; I know not by what Accident the whole Country was cover'd with a Deluge of Monks, who took up all the easie Carriages: We had two days Journey to make thro' a very rough and mountainous Country; 'tis true, 'tis not impassable in a Ca­lash, but we should have been oftentimes forc'd to alight and walk afoot, and therefore we re­solv'd to make use of Horses.

The Way between Florence and Bologna is a perpetual Chain of the Apennin Mountains; the highest we met with in our passage is call'd Monte Juovo. The Country, generally speaking, is barren and desart, only the Valleys ofOn the third of July 1642, this little Town was destroy'd by an Earthquake. Schrad. Scar­peria, andFiorenzola was built by the Florentins, An. 1332. Villani writes, That they laid the Foundations of it under the Ascendant of the Sign Leo, that it might become a potent and durable City: But he adds, That these Precautions were very unsuccessful. Some think this is the Fidentia of the Ancients. Fiorenzola deserve a somewhat better character: the first of these places is famous for Cutler's Work, where for five or six pence you may buy a Knife, with a dozen of Blades to one Handle; and you may have some of all prices.

[Page 184]'Tis observ'd, that towards the Village of Pietra-mala the Air sparkles sometimes during the night.

A little on this side, between Pietra-mala and Loyano, at the Village of Scari calassino, are the limits of Tuscany; the Great Duke of Tuscany's Arms are on one side of a Post, and the Pope's on the other.

From the top of the last Hills which end at Bologna, we discover'd the Sea on our right hand, and directly opposite to us we had a full view of the vast and admirable Plain of Lombardy, which spreads its self along the Po, between the Alps and Apennine Hills: the surface of the Sea is every where spherical, and therefore we can see but a little part of it at once; but Lom­bardy being exactly level, discovers a prodigious extent of Land, especially if it be view'd from a rising Ground.

The Apennin sinks by degrees into little fertile Hills,BOLOGNA the Fat. as it approaches Bologna, which isOn the Via Aemilia. seated at the foot of the Hills and opening of the plain Country: to take a full prospect of it, you must go up to the Convent of St. Michael in Bosco, where at the same you will have the plea­sure to see one of the most magnificent Mona­steries in Italy. 'Tis certain, there are few sove­raign Princes whose Palaces are near so beauti­ful. I know not whether the Monastery of the Dominicans, and that of St. Saviour, are inferiour to this; but in the general I can assure you, the Convents in Bologna are extreamly large and very magnificent.

[Page 185] Bologna is the Seat of an Archbishop,The Archbishop has the Title of a Prince of the Empire. and the second City in the Ecclesiastical State; 'tis reckon'd to be somewhat greater and even richer than Florence, and to contain more Inhabitants by a third part: 'tis enclos'd only with a single Wall, and has no Citadel. After it had been cruelly harass'd by Foreign Wars and Intestine Broils, it was forc'd at last to throw its self in­to the Arms of thePope Nicholas Ann. 1278. Pope. But tho' the People of Bologna surrender'd up their Liberties, and became a part of his Holiness's Dominions, yet they made a kind of honourable composition with their new Master, and submitted only on these terms,Bolognesi sen­sa Fisco & Cita­della. That he should never put 'em un­der the Lash of a Citadel; that the Estates of the Citizens should never be subject to confisca­tion under any pretext whatsoever; and that they should still have an Auditor of the Rota, and an Ambassador at Rome. All which Con­ditions have been faithfully observ'd hitherto.

The Ʋniversity was founded in the year 425,In one of the Halls of the U­niversity there is a Monument erected to the honour of Ga­briel Tagliacoz­zo, an expert Surgeon, who made artificial Noses, Ears, and Lips, of live Flesh. Huguetan. by Theodosius the younger, but it ows its chief splendor to Charlemain: It is with respect to this University that the City stamps upon its Coin Bononia docet; and the word Libertas is also added in the Coat of Arms.

The little River Arno that passes by the City could not make it a fit place for Traffic, but for the Canal of Communication by which it is join'd to the Po. There are in this City Four hundred Silk-mills; and besides, the Inhabitants trade in Wax, Hemp, Flax, Hams, Sauciges, Soap, Tobacco, and Perfumes: They sold their [Page 186] little Dogs very dear when they were more in fashion than they are at present. They tell a pleasant Story of a certain honest Traveller, a Native of Limoges in France, who in his pas­sage thro' this Town observing what vast sums were paid for these little Creatures, went im­mediately home to his own Country, and re­turn'd with a whole Kennel of Mastiffs, hoping to sell 'em at much dearer rates, proportiona­bly to their weight and bulk.

The Houses are generally built of Stone or Brick, plaister'd over; and there are also some of hewn Stone. Almost all the Streets have double Portico's, as at Padua, but here they are both larger and higher, not unlike to those in Covent-Garden. The Streets are also pretty streight, and, all things consider'd, it may be said, that Bologna is both a good and a fine Town. The Women are not so much confin'd as at Florence; we saw a considerable number, and some of 'em are very handsom. The richer sort endeavour as much as they can to imitate the French Fashions, as they do almost every where else.

General Caprara's Palace is one of the finest in the City. Here we saw many rich Spoils which he took from the Turks.

Bonifacio VIII. P. M. ob eximia erga se merita S. P. Q. B. A. M. CCC. I.The Cardinal-Legate, and the Gonfalonier with his Counsellor's Lodge in the public Palace, above the Portal of which there is a Statue in Brass of Gregory XIII, and on one side of it that of Boniface VIII. In the same Palace we saw the Cabinet of Curiosities ofUlysses. Aldroandus. That of the Marquiss of Cospi is united to it, and the whole belongs to the City. Every [Page 187] Piece in these Cabinets has its Name written upon it.M. Lotier a Ban­ker has an ex­cellent Cabinet of Medals. He has two Otho's of Brass, of uncontroverted Antiquity. They are only ignorant Persons, who pretend that there are no ancient Otho's. Spon. We observ'd the Picture of a Wo­man, whom Aldroandus says he saw, who had a long and thick Beard like a Capuchin Fryar.

But there is nothing in both these Cabinets so rare and surprizing as what I am going to relate to you. In a Chamber at the side of this we saw a hundred and eighty seven Vo­lumes in folio, all written by Aldroandus's own Hand, with more than two hundred Bags full of loose Papers: 'Tis true, the Margins are large, and the Lines at a considerable di­stance.

I forgot to tell you, that between the Sta­tues of the Popes, on the Front of this Palace, there is a Latin Inscription, which says, That the Emperor Charles V, and Pope Clement VII. meeting together at Bologna, in November 1529, gave Peace to all Italy; after which the PopeCharles V. had been crown'd be­fore at Aix la Chapelle, on the 22d of October 1520. He was crown'd King of Lombardy at Bologna. crown'd the Emperor in the Church of St. Pe­tronius; that afterwards they made a triumphant procession thro' the whole City, and remain'd all the succeeding Winter together in it.

Another Inscription relates the Miracle wrought by an Image of our Lady, who deli­ver'd Bologna from the Plague. It begins thus: Adeste O Sol & Luna Testes, &c.

In another place, one nam'dPerhaps this was Count Ugo­lin of Pisa, one of the Heads of the Guelphs, whose Story and miserable End is related by J. Villani, l. 7. c. 120, 127. Ʋgolino is pain­ted on the Wall, hanging by a Foot, with these words, Ʋgolino traditore filatugliero alla Pa­tria.

[Page 188]The great and beautiful Fountain over-against the Palace is the Work of the famous John of Bologna, a Flemish Architect and Scul­ptor.

St. Petronius's is the greatest Church in the City. Here we observ'd Cassini's Meridian Line, which is drawn on a Copper Plate set in the Pavement, and is Two hundred and twenty two foot long. The situation of the Church is al­most East and West; so that the Line begin­ning at the entrance of the great Body on the left hand, passes between the Pillars without any Obstacle, almost to the end of the little Nave. Directly over the Noon-point of this Line there is a little hole in the arch'd Roof of the last Nave, thro' which a Ray of the Sun enters, and marks the Solstices and Equinoxes upon the Line. This is an unerring Sign, and the Ope­ration may be easily perform'd in a convenient place;The Neptune and other Fi­gures in Brass were made by John of Bologna. Antonio Lupi was the Archi­tect, and Lau­reci the Designer of this Structure. L'Ascoso writes, That the Fountain cost Seventy thousand Crowns of Gold. for the whole Secret consists in measu­ring the degrees on the Line, proportionably to the heighth of the hole thro' which the Ray enters.

At the Church of Corpus Domini they shew an embalm'd Body, which is black and dry, like a Mummy, and pretend that 'tis the Body of a Katherin Vi­gri. Saint that works many Miracles. She is sea­ted on a Stool, and muffl'd up in a hundred sorts of Hoods, with many Rings on her Fin­gers. Her Nails and Hair, if you will believe our Informers, grow as much now as when she was alive; which was the first and principal [Page 189] Mark of Holiness that laid the Foundation of her Fame. 'Tis impossible to behold such a ghastly Spectacle without Horror.

They have also an extraordinary veneration for an Image of our Lady, made by St. Luke, and are perswaded that she would infallibly come once every year to visit 'em, if they did not go to her: But they are too complaisant not to take a Journey of five miles to wait up­on her at the place of her residence;At Mount la Guardia. They are making a cover'd way to go in procession from the City to that Mountain; and the Work is already far ad­vanc'd. and for three days afterwards they carry her about the City with more Pomp and Ceremony than was us'd in the Reception of Charles the Fifth, and Clement the Seventh. The Companies of Arti­ficers, the Fraternities, Convents, Parishes, Ma­gistrates, Gonfalonier, and Legat, assist all toge­ther at the solemnity of this Procession. The Image is carried under a rich Canopy, and when she passes by, the Spectators throw them­selves upon their Knees with Sighs and Groans that put us in mind of your Quakers in England.

We saw also the magnificent Chapel and Tomb of St. Dominic in the Church of the Do­minicans. The Benches in the Quire are adorn'd with inlaid Work of several colours, done by Fryar Damian of Bergamo. The same Praises are given to this Work now, that were wont to be bestow'd on it formerly; for commonly one half of our Actions proceeds meerly from Cu­stom: Nevertheless, that Art has been very much improv'd since those times; they have found out the Secret of imprinting natural Co­lours on Wood; and in the general such Works are now perform'd with quite another turn, a great deal more delicacy and exactness.

[Page 190]In the same Church we saw the Tomb of Call'd also Enzelin. Hentius King of Sardinia and Corsica, Bastard Son of the Emperor Frederic II. That young Prince was taken Prisoner by the Bolognians, as he was coming to assist their Enemies the Peo­ple of Modena. His Father left no means un­essay'd to procure his Liberty; he strove in vain to move the Bolonians, both with Prayers and Threatnings, and at last promis'd to— Cum tan­tum Auri pro redimendo Filio polliceretur, quantum ad moenia Bononiae circulo aureo cingenda suffi­ceret. sur­round their City with a Circle of Gold; but they would never be perswaded to deliver their Prisoner. 'Tis true, they maintain'd him at the public charge, and treated him as a King, but as a captive King. He liv'd Two and twenty years, nine months, and sixteen days in con­finement, and died in March 1272. There is an Epitaph on his Tomb that gives a particular account of the whole Story.

When I reflect on the Emperor's Offer, and the Obstinacy of that little Republic, I cannot forbear suspecting that there was some Myste­ry in the Golden Circle: If Frederic had intended to make his promis'd Chain heavy, 'tis probable he would have offer'd some particular Sum, without using the ambiguous Expressions of Circles and Surrounding. And the Bononians would not have been so inexorable, if they had not fear'd to be deceiv'd, and perhaps imagin'd that the Circle would at last dwindle into a Thread.

Near the great TowerThis Tower was erected by Gerard Asinelli, An. 1109, it is 376 foot high. The Garisenda was built by Otho, and Philip Garisendi, Ann. 1110. Its heighth amounts to 130, and its inclination to 9 feet. Gal. Guald. Asinelli there is ano­ther, call'd Garisenda, which leans like the Tower [Page 191] of Pisa. The general Opinion is, that its In­clination is an effect of the singular Art of the Builder, whose Wit is no less admir'd here than the Timorousness of certain Monks is deri­ded, who were so terrify'd by the leaning of the Tower, that they resolv'd to leave their Convent, which lay under it.

The Opinion of those who pretend that this Monument was purposely erected in a leaning posture, does certainly proceed from their Ig­norance. It is a square and even Tower built of Brick, like that of Siena and Viterbo, men­tion'd in one of my preceding Letters; it was not design'd for an Ornament, nor erected to display the Wit of the Architect; and, without doubt, it was more for the Interest of those that built it to secure the stability of its Foun­dations, than to affect an useless singularity in its Structure. And, after all, it would not be a very difficult task to build an enclining Tower; you are not ignorant of the Reasons on which such an Operation might be ground­ed, and you may try the Experiment when you please, by making a pile of the Men on your Tables. This Tower puts me in mind of a Story related by Childrey, one of your English Naturalists, that there is a Steeple in Bristol which is variously agitated, according to the motion of the Bells.

Before I came hither I had seen the Epitaph of that Proculus who lies interr'd in St. Proculus's Church in this City;

Si procul à Proculo, Proculi campana fuisset;
Jam procul à Proculo, Proculus ipse foret.

[Page 192] But I always fancy'd, according to the common Opinion, that St. Proculus's Bell had knock'd out his Namesake's Brains; whereas I'm inform'd here, that this Proculus being a very studious person, accustom'd himself for several years to rise every Morning at the sound of that Bell; which was at last the occasion of his death.

The shining Stones so generally known under the name of the Bononian Stones, are found on the Hill of Paderno, three miles from the City. Barthol. Zunicheli is the only person that knows how to prepare 'em.

We find the Heats no less troublesome here than among the sandy Mountains of the Apen­nins; but to make amends, we have Ice and all sorts of cooling Liquors: thro' all the Country the Men use Fans as well as the Women; there are some made of Paper, not unlike to a Fane or Weather-Flag, and sold for a penny. In our Inn we had a Machine that play'd on the Table to drive away the Flies.

We were frequently entertain'd with Lake-Tortoises, about the bigness of Trenchers; their Flesh is firm, and of a pretty good savour.

Last night about Sun-setting we left Bologna, and travell'd ten miles to San [...]ogia, a little Village equally distant from that City and Modena. We are assur'd, that henceforward the whole Coun­try, as far as the Alps, is as smooth and even as a Bowling green, and that all the ways are bor­der'd with till'd Grounds, and Vines supported by Trees planted Chequerwise: we have been already accustom'd to such Objects in several parts of Lombardy, and must expect to meet with almost nothing else: such a Disposition of [Page 193] the Country is certainly good in its own nature, and very pleasant, but at last it grows offensive to the Eye of a Traveller; for the Sight is perpetually bounded with rows of Trees, and wants the necessary diversion of Variety.

Yesterday in the Evening,I have read in an English Re­lation of the A­merican Islands, that there are great shining Flies in Barba­does, which might serve for Candles: and that the Indians usually tye 'em to their Arms and Legs, when they travel in the night. as we drew near to the above-mention'd Village, we saw a thing that appear'd very unusual, and not unpleasant to us, tho' 'tis not at all heeded by the People of the Country, by reason of its commonness. All the Hedges were cover'd with prodigious Swarms of Shining Flies, and every Bush seem'd to be on fire. The Fields and Trees were no less full of 'em, and the whole Air was brigh­ten'd by their lustre. You would have sworn, that either it rain'd Stars, or that these Lumi­naries flew thro' the Skies; at least Philo would have been of that Opinion, who imagin'd all the Stars to be living Creatures.

These littleThey are call'd Lucciole. Insects are almost of the shape of Locusts, but they are not above two Lines and a half long, and one Line in breadth. The shining part is a little pale yellow Hair under their Belly, which is stretch'd at every motion of their Wings, and at the same time darts forth a very bright glance of Fire.

We set forwards this morning very early, and in two hours arriv'd at Modena. By the way we saw the Fort ofThis Fort has four Bastions, which bear the names of St. Ma­ry, St. Peter, St. Paul, and St. Petronius. Ʋrban VIII, and a little on this side of it we cross'd the River Panaro, which separates the Territory of Bologna from the Dutchy of Modena.

Modena is situated in a good Country,MODENA▪ but it is destitute of Trade, and consequently poor. Its Fortifications are in a decaying condition, [Page 194] and its Streets are little and dirty. The Portico's with which almost all the Streets are border'd, as at Bologna, are low and narrow; neither are any of its Churches very remarkable. Fine Houses are Rarities in this place; and, all things consider'd, I may venture to assure you, that it would be hardly taken notice of, but for its an­cient Reputation, and the residence of its Duke in i [...] at present. The old Palace is an inconsi­derable Building, but the new one, which is partly founded on the Ruins of the former, has very promising Beginnings: The Stables are handsom, and well stor'd. These are all the Beauties of Modena, with its Street appointed for Races, and the Walks on the Ramparts. I am,

SIR,
Your &c.

LETTER XXX.

SIR,

OUR Calashes brought us in four hours from Modena to Regio. REGIO. There is nothing particularly remarkable in this City; but in the general 'tis better built, and more pleasant than Modena. They boast much of theirHuguetan says there are two famous Pictures in it, one by Cor­regio, and the other by Guido: but he forgets to tell us what they are. Church of St. Prosper, but they who have seen Rome and Naples will hardly be perswaded to admire the Churches of Regio. They strive also to gain some Reputation by their Works in Bone, and Spurs; as those of Modena do by their Masks; but these are poor Exploits to acquire Fame. Their finest Works in Bone are paltry little Rings, sold for Six-pence a dozen, Death-heads, Shrines for Relicks, Agnus Dei's, and Crosses, all which are made with Tools like Hedging Bills. They have store ofOr Images of our Lady. Madones, and Relicks. I am inform'd, that some ancient Inscriptions have been found at Regio, in which that City is call'd Regium Lepidi, without mentioning who that Lepidus was. The other Regio in Calabria ulte­rior bore the name of Regium Julium; and 'tis observ'd, that the Inhabitants of the first were by the Latin Authors call'd Regienses, whereas those of the latter were nam'd Rhegini. And the last Regium or Rhegium is also thought to be de­riv'd from the Greek word [...], because Italy [Page 196] is divided, and as it were broken from Sicily at that place.

The Inhabitants of our Regio stile their Prince Duke of Regio and Modena; as, you know, the Scots put the name of their Country before that of England, in the Title of the King.

Eight miles from Regio we pass'd over the River Ensa on a Bridge, and enter'd, on the other side, into the Dutchy of Parma. The Country is still plain, but we meet with many Pastures; whereas about Bologna and Modena al­most all the Grounds are till'd.

Parma is seventeen miles from the Bridge of Ensa; we perceiv'd the City at a considerable distance, because of the breadth and streight­ness of the Road that leads to it, which disco­vers its highest Spires. The entry into it is very pleasant, and the City it self deserves the same Character. Over the Gate thro' which we enter'd we saw the Arms of Pope Paul III. You know that Pontife created his Bastard Son Lewis, Duke of Parma and Placenza, these Terri­tories having been before united to the Ecclesiasti­cal State. The Citadel of Parma was built on the Model of that of Antwerp; and the Fortifi­cations of the City are also very good. It is divided by the River of Parma, which runs thro' the middle of it; but this River is not navigable.

There is nothing extraordinary in the Ducal Palace, but they are building another which will be larger and more regular. The Stables are handsom, the Coaches very rich, and the Wardrobe well furnish'd. The great Theater [Page 197] is a very rare Structure, and neither Paris nor Venice can boast of the like. It is extreamly large, and yet the softest Whisper may be heard thro' all the parts of it. Instead of Boxes, the Floor is surrounded with Benches, rais'd after the manner of an Amphitheater: It is also much larger than the Floors of Theaters are usually made, and may be fill'd with Water to the heighth of above three feet. This little Lake is cover'd with gilt Boats, which make a very charming Spectacle, by the help of a fine illumination.

Besides the ordinary Schools of the Universi­ty, there is a large and fair College, call'd the College of the Nobility. They receive Scholars of all Nations, who are capable of being ad­mitted Knights of Malta. Not only the Scien­ces, but all manner of Exercises are taught here; and the Pensions are different, according to the variety of the Studies. The Scholars eat toge­ther in a Refectory, and their number at present amounts to Two hundred and thirty.

The Dome of the Cathedral was painted by Corregio; and there are several good Pictures in theAt St. John's and St. Antho­ny's. Principal Churches.

We saw a great deal of good Company at the Race, especially fair and handsom Women, but they observe the ridiculous Customs of Rome: for Persons of different Sexes never go into the same Coach; you may see a heap of Men in one Coach, and a troop of Women in another; and they would be as much asham'd to be seen together, as to walk stark naked about the Streets. Is there not a strange Medley of Humours and Prejudices in the World?

[Page 198] Parma is 35 miles distant from Placenza. In our Journey thither we pass'd by a little disman­tled Town call'd St. Donino; we saw neither Villages nor Rivers on all this Road, that de­serve to be mention'd.

PLACENZA. Placenza is seated in a Plain, five or six hun­dred p [...]ces from the Po. It is a pleasant Town, bigger than Parma; the Houses are low, but very prettily built. The Race-street, which they call the Stradone, is streight as a Line, and of an equal breadth throughout. Next the Houses, on each side of it, there is a Foot-path fenc'd in by a row of Three hundred Posts, as at London; these Posts are just ten foot distant from each other; whence 'tis plain, that the whole Street is 3000 foot long.

The Statues of Alexander Farnese Governor of the Spanish Netherlands, and of his Son Rainuccio the First, are in the great Place.

We went up to the top of the highest Stee­ple, according to our usual custom, from whence we discover'd an admirable Landskip, extreamly embellish'd by the course of the Po; and even saw Cremona distinctly, which is twenty miles distant from this place.

There are some Pictures by Ca­rache in the Cathedral; and an Image of our Lady by Ra­phael, at St. Sixtus's. Hug.I have not thought fit to mention the Chur­ches of this City, and am resolv'd hereafter to trouble you very rarely with Descriptions of that nature; for, as I intimated to you before, when one's Head is full of the Idea's of such magnifi­cent Churches as we have seen, 'tis almost a pain to him to look upon any others.

[Page 199]I shall only add concerning Placenza, that it is thinly inhabited; that the Houses are gene­rally built of Brick; and that its Weights, Mea­sures, and Coyns are different from those of Par­ma. Its Fortifications are not very considerable, tho' they are commonly much extoll'd. The Pomaerium is surrounded with Posts, without any Buildings; I know not whether I made the same Observation concerning Leghorn, in one of my former Letters.

We follow'd the course of the Po, at some distance, till we came over against Cremona, where we cross'd over the River in a Ferry-boat. There are no Bridges on the Po below Turin.

Cremona is seated on the left Bank of that River, in the Dutchy of Milan. CREMONA. 'Tis a pretty large City, but even poorer and less populous than Placenza. There is nothing at all to be seen in it, tho' its Tower and Castle are very much extoll'd. One of their Authors has the confidence to tell the World, That the Tower is reckon'd to exceed all others in heighth, and for that reason esteem'd one of the Wonders of Europe; and That the Castle is the strongest and most formidable Citadel in Italy. If I had not been accustom'd to the lofty and hyperbolical Expressions of the Italians, I should have been strangely surpriz'd, after all these Rhodomontades, to find nothing at Cremona worth observation. The Castle is an old, shapeless, and half-ruin'd Mass, which in its best state deserv'd not to be compar'd to a well contriv'd Fort, but perhaps might have been reputed tolerable in the days of Cross-bows. And the Tower is neither handsom nor very [Page 200] high, but inferior to a thousand that are not so much as mention'd. It was built by Frederic Barbarossa, An. 1184. There is a Tradition, that the Emperor Sigismond and Pope John XXIII, went up to this Tower, with a certainGabrino Fon­dulio Tyrant of Cremona. C. Tor. Lord of Cremona, who repented afterwards, as he se­veral times declar'd, That he did not throw 'em down from top to bottom, meerly for the rarity of the thing. And perhaps it was this Story that gave the first occasion to the Reflexions that have been made on the heighth of this Tower.

The Inhabitants of Cremona boast much of the Antiquity of their City, but they produce not any Monuments to confirm it. The Antiquity of Cremona has a very near resemblance to that of the Po.

In the distance of Forty miles from Cremona to Mantua, we saw nothing but Hamlets that deserve not to be nam'd.BOZZOLO. Only Bozzolo is a sort of a little City, enclos'd with certain Works which pass for Fortifications. It gives Title to a Duke, who, besides this place, is Soveraign of a Territory that ex [...]ends four or five miles. We pass'd the Oglio in a Ferry boat, a great and rapid River, that falls from the Lake of Isseo into the Po.

I soon perceiv'd, that neither the Geographi­cal Charts, nor the other Descriptions I had seen of Mantua had given me a just Idea of its situa­tion;MANTUA. for it is usually but falsly represented in the midst of a Lake, with which it is almost equally surrounded. To rectifie this Mistake, [Page 201] it must be observ'd, that theWhich comes from the Lake of Guarda. River Mincio meeting with a flat Country, makes a kind of Marish about twelve or fifteen times longer than broad: and that the City is built on a spot of firm Land, within the Marish, but towards one side of it. Before we enter'd the City, we pass'd over a Causey,The Marquisat of Mantua was ad­vanc'd to the Title of a Dutchy by Charles V, An. 1530. which is not above two or three hundred paces long; but on the other side which looks towards Verona, the Marish, or Lake (if it must be so call'd) is much wider. In some parts of it the Water is always in mo­tion, but in others it stagnates and infects the Air to such a degree, that during the great Heats, the City is only inhabited by such who cannot conveniently leave it.

The situation of Mantua is not unlike to that of Peronne, but with this difference, that the last, besides its Marish, is well fortified; whereas Mantua is enclos'd only with a Wall, tho' 'tis also defended by a strong Citadel.

This City is of an indifferent largeness, about the bigness of Cremona, but much superior to it both in Riches and in the number of Inhabi­tants. Some of the Streets are broad and streight, but the Houses are generally unequal, and almost all very indifferent. I have seen a printed description of the Ducal Palace, in which that Building is extoll'd as the most magnificent Structure in Italy. 'Tis plain, that the Author wracks his Fancy to invent new Terms, as if those that are now in use were not strong enough to express the Grandeur of his Subject; but such a groundless Zeal must either be an Effect of an excessive and unwarrantable Complaisance, or proceed from an unjust Prejudice. The out­side [Page 202] of this Structure is neither beautiful nor regular; and I can assure you from my own Experience, that a Stranger may pass by it, and even look upon it and touch it, without imagining it to be a Palace. 'Tis true, there are many Galleries and Apartments in it, and therefore it may be call'd large and commodious, which are the highest Epithets that can be be­stow'd on it, as well as on White hall.

Our Guides assur'd us, that this Palace was very richly and magnificently furnish'd before it wasThe 18th of July, 1630. pillag'd by the Imperial Army. It seems succeeding Princes have been discourag'd by the greatness of that loss from endeavouring afterwards to repair it; for many of the Rooms remain still empty. Nevertheless, it must be acknowledg'd, that there is not the least defect in the Duke's Apartment: the Hall of Anti­quities is full of rare and fine Pieces, and the Cabinet of Curiosities is extreamly well fur­nish'd.

Of seven or eight Pleasure-houses that be­long to the Duke of Mantua, we saw only Mar­mirol and la Favorite, which are very lovely Seats. Marmirol especially is a charming place, admira­bly well furnish'd, adorn'd with Pictures and Antiquities, and embellish'd with several Gar­dens, Orange-walks, Bird-houses, and Foun­tains; besides which it enjoys the advantage­ous Neighbourhood of a Wood, and of a deli­cious and limpid Brook.

See Mezeray in the Life of Charlemain.The Reverend Mr. St. Longin is the most precious Relic in Mantua, together with some Drops of that miraculous Blood which was found in this City in the time of Leo III, [Page 203] andThis Order was instituted An. 1608, by Vincent Gonza­ga, at the mar­riage of his Son with Margaret of Savoy. He created Twenty Companions of the Order, and put this Devise about the Collar, Nihil isto Triste recepto. afterwards gave occasion to the Institution of the Duke of Mantua's Order. Both these venerable Rarities are kept in St. Andrew's Church, at the entry of which I observ'd ano­ther extraordinary Piece; 'tis a Bell almost six foot in diameter, with eight openings like Win­dows, three foot high, and one broad in its cir­cumference. They told us some Stories con­cerning the oddness of its Fabric, but without the least appearance of Truth.

'Tis impossible to leave Mantua without re­membering Virgil, who was born in the Village of Andes near this City.

Mantua Musarum domus, at (que) ad Sidera cantu
Evecta Andino. Sil. Ital. l. 8.

Besides the Cathedral, Strangers usually visit the Churches of the Jesuites, of St. Barnabas, St. Maurice, St. Sebastian, St. Ʋrsula, and St. Bar­bara; the Town-house, Theater, Manufacto­ries, Mill of the Twelve Apostles, Synagogue, and Shambles.

Two and twenty miles from Mantua we pass'd over a River which separates that Dutchy from the Signiory of Venice; and eighteen miles further we arriv'd the same Evening at Bressa, BRESSA. where we lodg'd. The first Object that struck our Eyes as we enter'd into this City, was the sight of Women in the Streets and Shops, as 'tis usual in France and England; for we had seen none of that Sex since our arrival at Verona. Bressa seems to be pretty well stor'd with Inha­bitants, and a place of Traffick; People stir [Page 204] about here after quite another manner than in most Towns of an indifferent largeness, we have hitherto seen in Italy.

The Fortifications of this City are inconside­rable, but it is defended by a very strong Cita­del, which stands on a little Hill adjoining to the City, and as it were on the first step of the Alps.

The Palace of Justice is a great and fair Building of a certain hard Stone resembling Marble. On the Pediment of the Front are these words written,Justiciae with a c. Fidelis Brixia Fidei & Ju­sticiae consecravit. Opposite to this Palace there is a Portico five hundred paces long, and almost quite fill'd with Armourers Shops. The Fire-Arms that are made here are famous thro' all Italy.

The Neighbourhood of the Alps furnishes this City with a great number of fine Springs, and a very commodious Rivulet.

In the Cathedral they preserve with a great deal of Veneration that which they call Constan­tine's Oriflame, but we could meet with none that were able to give us an exact description of it, because it is never fully shown. The Sexton, who entertain'd us with a Relation of its Vir­tues, told us only that it is a blew Cross, of un­known matter, and that it is the same that ap­pear'd to Constantine with this Motto, In hoc Signo vinces, in the Battel which that Empe­ror fought against Maxentius; but we must not give Credit to this account of it. The Cross or Figure of a Cross mention'd in that Story, was only a sign that appear'd in the Air, and not a palpable Cross; nor can it be properly [Page 205] call'd anSome derive the word Ori­flame from Flammula, a Banner or Stan­dard, and Au­rea, Golden, be­cause it was fa­sten'd to the end of a gilt Lance. Others think it was so call'd be­cause it was made of a sort of Gold and Flame-colour'd Stuff. It was adorn'd with green Tassels. Du Cange. Oriflame, which signifies a sort of gilt Banner or Standard. Mezeray tells us, That under the second Race of Kings, St. Martin's Cope was born at the Head of the French Armies. But he adds, That the Race of the Capets having a particular Veneration for St. Denis, made use of the Banner call'd Oriflame, which belong'd to that Saint's Church. Perhaps then the Oriflame at Bressa may be the The Labarum was a purple Banner, which was never made use of, but when the Emperor commanded the Army in person. It was en­rich'd with Fringes of Gold, and Jewels. Constantine order'd this Cypher to be written on it, which consists of the first Letters of the Name of Christ, Labarum, to which Constantine added the Name of Christ, after his Victory over Maxentius. But to speak more reasonably, give me leave to say, that this Vision seems to be the Product of some Enthusiastical Brain, as well as that shining Image of the Virgin, holding the little Jesus in her Arms, which the Tyburtin Sibyl shew'd to Augustus in the Air.

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All the way from Bressa to Bergamo we coast­ed the Ridge of the Alps on our right hand, at the distance of two or three miles. We pass'd over the River Oglio a second time at Palazzuolo, which is seated exactly in the mid­dle between the two above-mention'd Cities, being Fifteen Miles distant from each of 'em.

[Page 206] BERGAMO. Bergamo is a strong Town, and a place of Traffic, seated on a little Hill at the foot of the Alps. Besides its Fortifications, which are well lin'd, and in good repair, it has a Citadel with some Forts and advanc'd Works, which defend the rising Grounds that command it. It has al­so five Suburbs, which are singly worth a little Town.

Ambrose Cale­pin lies interr'd at the Austin's He was born at Calepio a Vil­lage near Ber­gamo.When Travellers visit the Cathedral, they shew 'em the Tomb of the brave Barth. Coglione Commander of the Venetian Forces against Mi­lan, and the first General who broughtAngli in op­pugnatione Ce­nomanorum primum Aeneis Tormentis utun­tur, & Urbe po­tiuntur, An. 1425. Pol. Virg. Ca­nons into the Field. They make 'em also take notice of the inlaid Work of the Benches in the Quire of the same Church. It is of the same nature, and done by the same Hand as that we observ'd in the Church of the Dominicans at Bo­logna.

The Bergamese Jargon is reckon'd so ridicu­lous, that all the Italian Buffoons affect to imi­tate it. But there is another thing that makes the People of this City far more unpleasant and disagreeable; one▪ half of 'em have Wens or lumps on their Throats, which disfigure their Countenances, and in my Opinion are very unseemly Blemishes. These Swellings are in a manner natural to 'em; and, if we may give credit to the common Report, they doubt whe­ther it be a greater Imperfection to have or to want these Tumors.Henry VIII. King of England us'd to bless Gold Rings, which, he pretended, cur'd the Cramp. But his Son Edward slighted this kind of Talisman. William III, now reigning, has also rejected and abolish'd the superstitious Custom observ'd by the Kings his Predecessors since Edward the Confessor, to touch those who were troubl'd with Scrophulous Tumors, or the King's Evil. You know, without doubt, that the Princes of the House of Austria pretend [Page 207] to cure this Distemper, by giving a Glass of Water to drink; and to untye the Tongues of Stammerers by kissing 'em.

The Territories of Bergamo and Milan are water'd throughout with Rivulets which fall from the Alps, and are upon occasion divided by the Inhabitants into an infinite number of Ca­nals, which by moistening the Fields prevent the ill consequences of Droughts, and make the Lands extreamly fertile.

The Inundation of the River Adda, which comes from the Lake of Como, oblig'd us to leave our Calashes at a Village call'd Canonica, twelve miles from Bergamo, where we pass'd over the River in a Boat, tho' not without a great deal of difficulty, by reason of its extraordina­ry rapidity. We embark'd on the other side, on the Canal call'dNavilio della Marresana. Navilio, which begins at Trezzo two miles above Canonica, and reaches in a streight line within half a mile of Milan, its whole length amounting to twenty miles. It derives Water from the Adda, the course of which River is in many places very steep, and meets with several Falls before it reaches the level of the flat Country, so that it is lower than the Canal by five and twenty or thirty feet over against Canonica.

'Tis said, that many Engineers had in vain attempted to bring the Waters of the Adda to Milan by way of a Canal, till at last Leonard de Vinci, the most accomplish'd man of his Age, undertook and finish'd the work.

I read t'other day with equal Admiration and Pleasure, the Account Mr. Felibien gives of that great Man, who, I'm apt to think, had a larger [Page 208] stock of Merit than ever any Man before him could boast of. I cannot forbear making a short digression on this occasion, which I hope will not offend you. That illustrious Florentine was a man of great stature, of a good aspect, and sweet temper: he was prudent, courteous, full of Wit, Courage, and Generosity. He was so prodi­giously strong, that he was able with one Hand to twist the Clapper of a Bell. He was an ex­cellent Horseman, danc'd admirably well, was brave and dextrous in managing all sorts of Weapons, and a perfect Master in all genteel Exercises. All the World knows, that he was one of the best Painters of the Age▪ and that he and Michael Angelo made Raphael leave his first way of Drawing. Besides all these excellent En­dowments, our Leonard was a skilful Architect, a good Sculptor, a great Master in Mechanics, a learned Mathematician, Musician, Anatomist, Philosopher, Poet and Historian. Providence could not in Justice put an end to so rare a Life without a distinguishing Event. At the age of Seventy and Five years he fell sick at Paris, and Francis the First honour'd him with a Visit; he endeavour'd to express his acknow­ledgment of so great a Favour, by raising him­self up, and expir'd in the King's Arms, who ad­vanc'd to hinder him from rising.

The Merit of this great Person was the Sub­ject of our Discourse in our passage along his lovely Canal, which gave us the prospect of a delicious Country on both sides, and is in ma­ny places border'd with pleasant Houses, Or­chards and Gardens, like that which leads from Delft to Leyden, or from Amsterdam to Ʋtrecht.

[Page 209]I did not intend to have written to you be­fore our departure from Milan; but I could not forbear adding this to the other Letters I am oblig'd to write on this occasion. I am,

SIR,
Your &c.

LETTER XXXI.

SIR,

THO' the City of Milan has been often wasted,MILAN the Great. and evenAn. 1162. Fre­deric I, call'd Barbarossa, rac'd it, and sow'd it with Salt, spa­ring only some Churches. utterly destroy'd by the terrible Scourges of War and Pestilence, it is so well recover'd at present, that it may be justly reckon'd among the best and finest Cities in Europe. Its Figure is pretty round, its Walls are ten miles in compass, and I'm positively as­sur'd, that it contains no less than Three hun­dred thousand Inhabitants. There are not ma­ny Instances of so great a City built in the middle of the Land, without the conveniency of the Sea, or of aThe Country abounds with good Springs and Rivulets. Besides, the Ca­nal brought from the Adda fills the Ditch of she inward En­closure of the City wiih running Water. The Fortifications, or outward En­closure, were erected since the destruction of the City by Barbarossa. Galeazzo Visconti, Father of Azzo, attempted to make a navigable Canal between Mi­lan and Pavia, but the execution of that Design was prevented by the death of the Undertaker. The beginning of that Canal is still to be seen near the Gate of Pavia. River.

[Page 210]I remember a certain Latin Author informs us, That Mediolanum or Mediolana took its name Circa annum Mundi 4809. Mediolana Civi­tas conditur, sic dicta quod ibi apparuit Sus, quae pro media parte portabat Lanam pro pilis, Wern. Roolwinck. Et quae lanigera de Sue nomen habet. Sidon. Apoll. à Sue dimidiâ lanatâ, from a Sow half cover'd with Wool, that was found in the place where the City was founded.

The first thing that our Guide carried us to see was the famousThere are two descriptions of this Cabinet, one in Latin, by Paulus Maria Tarzago; and the other in Ita­lian, by Pi. Fran. Scarabelli. Cabinet of the late Canon Manfredi Settala, a Person equally noble and rich, and no less dextrous in working with his own Hands than ingenious and skilful in all the various parts of Learning. Such a man could not but make a good choice; neither is there any thing in this Cabinet that deserves not to be consider'd with attention.

Here we observ'd several sorts of very in­genious Machins, contriv'd for finding out the perpetual Motion, Looking-glasses of all sorts, Dials, Musical Instruments both ancient and modern, some of which were invented by Set­tala himself; Books, Medals, curious Keys and Locks, Seals, Rings, Pictures, Indian Works, Mummies, Arms, Strange Habits, Lamps, Urns, Idols, with an infinite number of other sorts of Antiquities; Fruits, Stones, Minerals, Animals; a prodigious variety of Shells; Works in Steel, Wood, Amber, and Ivory; a great piece of Cloth made of the Stone Amianthos; and, with­out engaging further in those tedious Enumera­tions I promis'd to avoid, all the most rare and curious Productions of Art and Nature, not for­getting Monsters.

[Page 211]The Dish of yellow Amber, two foot in diameter, is a Piece that deserves to be parti­cularly mention'd.

There are also several rough Pieces of the same sort of Amber, enclosing Grashoppers, Spiders, Ants, Flies▪ and several other sorts of Insects, which appear distinctly in the middle of 'em. This, in my Opinion, is an evident Argument, tho' there are many different Opi­nions concerning the Nature of Amber, that it is nothing else but a kind of Gum or Bitumi­nous Matter, harden'd in the Air or Sea, or per­haps by some other cause, which I will not exa­min at present. When an Ant, for example, happens to pass over a raw and clammy piece of this Bitumen, she is entangl'd by it, and the mass of that soft and unctious matter growing harder and bigger by degrees, the Insect is for ever entomb'd in it. And this is exactly the Opinion of Martial.

Dum Phaëtontaeâ formica vagatur in umbrâ,
Implicuit tenuem succina Gutta Feram,
Sic modò quae fuerat vitâ contempta manente,
Funeribus facta est tunc pretiosa suis.

'Tis certain that Ʋnicorns are meer Chimera's, and that the Horns usually ascrib'd to 'em are the Horns or Pricks of a certain Fish found in the Northern Seas. Yet there are three or four of these Horns in this Cabinet, which, they pretend, grew on that imaginary Animal. The Venetians have the same Opinion of the Horns in their Treasury; and many others are possess'd with like Prejudices. Never any man [Page 212] saw an Ʋnicorn, and yet the whole World is full of its Horns; I'm sure, for my part, I have seen above a hundred. 'Tis to be observ'd, that there are also Fossil Horns exactly like to those that grow on Fishes, tho' of a different mat­ter.

Montaign pre­tends that the Remora is a Shell-fish.The Remora that stopp'd the Galley of the Unfortunate Anthony, is another fabulous Animal▪ which, for all its Fame, may be plac'd in the rank of Ʋnicorns. Yet this also must encrease the number of the Curiosities of well-furnish'd Cabinets, lest any thing should seem to be wan­ting. They chuse for this purpose certain small and rarely-observ'd Fishes, about the bigness of Herrings. I have seen at least a dozen of 'em and am sure that of the whole number there were not two of the same kind.

The Foundations of it were laid on the 13th of June, 1386, by John Galeas Visconti, first Duke of Milan. There was for­merly in the same place a Church call'd St. Mary major, it stands in the Center of the City.The Cathedral Church is a prodigious Work. 'Tis, according to my observation, less than St. Peter's at Rome by almost a sixth part, but in­finitely superior to it in the laboriousness of its S [...]ructure. 'Tis cover'd all over, without and within, with Sculptures and Ornaments in Mar­ble; so that you cannot perceive the Ground, nor lay your Hand on any even or unwrought part. You are not a stranger to the Gothic way of Building; and to form a just Idea of this Edi­fice, you must imagin a Medley of Roses, Boughs of Trees, Animals, Grotesque Figures, Pyramids, Niches, Statues, and Representations of a Thousand different things, which dazzle the Eye of the Spectator by their Variety and Confusion.

[Page 213]There are only some parts of this Church perfectly finish'd; for 'tis the Interest, and very probably the design of the Chapter, to leave it still imperfect. The Legacies and other Do­nations that are bestow'd upon 'em for the building of the Church, bring vast Sums into their Coffers, which they apply to other uses. Here I observ'd an Inscription in Gold Letters engrav'd on Marble, which says,Templi hujus frontierigendae, at (que) ornandae, CCXXX. Au­reorum millia legavit, Jo. Pe­trus Carcanus Mediol. &c. That one John Carconus a Milanese left at his death the sum of Two hundred and Thirty thousand Crowns of Gold, to be employ'd in building and adorn­ing the Front of this Church. They have per­haps receiv'd a thousand times as much for the same use from other Testators; nevertheless the Front remains still almost naked: but this is a sure Device to drain the Purses of supersti­tious Persons.

Besides, to speak ingenuously, I believe there was another reason that retarded the building of this Front. If they consider'd the Rules of Uni­formity, they found that it ought to be made Gothic, as well as the rest of the Church; but a nicer and more refin'd Judgment requir'd it to be more regularly built. I observ'd both sorts of Architecture in that part of it which is already begun; from whence 'tis plain, that the Contrivers of it were very much puzzl'd, and uncertain what methods to follow. But their best course is to be still taking, and not trouble their Heads with other mat­ters.

[Page 214] Martin the Fifth havingOctober 16. 1648, above an hundred thou­sand Strangers came to Milan, to see the Cere­mony: and ma­ny Persons were stifi'd in the Croud. Morigi. bless'd the Al­tar, before St. Charles Borromeo consecrated the Church, theThis Statue was made by one Jacobinus, who, in the In­scription under it is said to ex­ceed Praxiteles. Praestantis Imaginis Author, De Tradate fuit Jacobinus in arte profundus, Non Praxitele minor sed major farier ausim. The last Verse limps. Near this Statue is that of Pius IV. Statue of that Pope was erected in the Quire. He is represented without a Beard, and with the Face of a young Man, tho' he was Fifty years old when he was advanc'd to the Papal Chair. Behind the Quire the Cata­logue of the Relicks in this Church is engrav'd on two Tables of Marble, among which I ob­serv'd a piece ofThis Rod or Wand is said to be entire at St. John de Lateran. Besides this Piece, there is another at Florence, as I intimated before; and Baronius relates, after Glaber, that there was a third found at Sens, Anno 1008. Rabbi Abarbinel, after a long dissertation, and many trifling Conjectures concerning this Wand, concludes, that Moses carried it to the Mountain where he dy'd, and that it was afterwards plac'd in his Tomb. But, after all, it was never known what became either of this or of the Ark. Moses's Rod. The'Tis the Opinion of some Authors, That Theodosius the Great gave this Nail to St. Ambrose; others say, that Saint went to look for it in the Shop of a certain Ironmonger at Rome, call'd Paolino, where he was warn'd in a Dream that he should find it. Nail of the Crucifixion of which they say Constantine made a Bit for a Bridle, is the most respected Relick in Milan. 'Tis kept on the great Altar, surrounded with five Lights which burn night and day. In the year 1576. Cardinal Borromeo, call'd St. Charles, carried it in a solemn procession to stop the Plague; he walk'd bare-foot, with a great Rope about his Neck, tho' he was also cloth'd with the usual Ornaments of a Cardinal.

TheThis Pave­ment is not yet finish'd. The Charge of it will amount to Threescore and six thousand Two hundred and ninety Crowns, without reckoning that of the Quire, which has already cost Five thousand Two hundred and fifty. Morigi. Pavement of this Church is finer, and more solid, than that of St. Peter's at Rome, [Page 215] where the Floor is laid with thin Leaves of Marble, which begin already to cleave, and will in a short time be quite rais'd up, whereas here the pieces are very thick.

There are always Masons hewing Stone, and Women spinning, sewing, and selling Fruit in the middle of the Church: besides, 'tis dark, and many parts of it imperfect. All which Considerations laid together, will easily convince you, that the inside of it can neither charm nor surprize the Eye of a curious Beholder.

We went up to the Steeple, from whence we had a view not only of Milan, but of four or five other Cities in the vast Plain of Lombardy. We discover'd also the Alps, which are united to the Appennine Mountains towards Genoua. The great Bell bears the name of St. Ambrose; it contains seven feet in diameter, and weighs Thirty thousand pounds.

Over against the Church there is a pretty large Place, where, in the Evening, I usually observ'd about thirty Coaches, which mov'd and stopp'd from time to time, that the People within 'em might see those who pass'd along. The place for taking the Air in Coaches is a great unpav'd Street, in the Suburbs, which is sprinkl'd e­very day with waterAnd therefore call'd Strada Marina., as the Voorhout is at the Hague.

The Ambrosian Library was so nam'd by Car­dinal Frederic Borromeo, Ph. Vannema­chero, and Ch. Torre, affirm, That this Library contains Fourteen thousand Manuscripts; but mention not the number of the printed Books. It was much augmented by the addition of Vincent Pinelli's Library, R. Lassels. Rufinus's Version of Josephus is one of the oldest Manuscripts in this Library. G. Burnet. Fabio Mangoni built it. It contains several Apartments. The great Hall is 75 foot long, and 30 broad. It could not be made larger, because of the Churches and Houses that surround it. Besides the Books and Pictures, 'tis enrich'd with several Collections of very fair Medals, and with rare and curious Pieces of antique Sculpture and Architecture, with others moulded on the Originals. Boschi wrote a Treatise De Origine & Statu Bibliothecae Ambrosianae C. Torre. Archbishop of Milan, [Page 216] who founded it, and dedicated it to St. Am­brose. I read in a little Description of this Li­brary printed at Tortona, That it contains twelve thousand Manuscripts, and seventy two thou­sand printed Volumes; but we must not depend on that Author's Testimony, for it appears plainly to the Eye, that there are not so many: and besides, the Library-keeper told us, that there were not above Forty thousand in all. This Library is kept open two hours every Morning and Afternoon; there is a Fire in it during the Winter, and there are also Seats and Desks, with all the other Conveniencies that are to be found in the Library of St. Victor at Paris.

They shew'd us a great Book of Mechani­cal Draughts, which they told us Leonard de Vinci wrote with his own hand. The Writing is extreamly awry, and can hardly be read without a Perspective-glass. There is an In­scription on the Wall, which says, That a cer­tain King of England, whose Name is not men­tion'd, offer'd Three thousand Pistols for this Volume.

Adjoining to this Library there is an Aca­demy for Painting, where we saw many good Pictures. Among the rest, I remember one of Clement the Tenth, which resembles a Print so exactly, that we were all deceiv'd by it.

The Citadel is a regular Hexagon, well lin'd, furnish'd with store of Cannon, and surrounded with a good Ditch and Counterscarps; but the old Walls should be pull'd down, with all those Towers, Forts, and other antique Works which are contain'd in the Citadel, besides a considera­ble number of Houses; for, if all this useless [Page 217] Rubbish were taken away, the place would be infinitely better. After we had walk'd round the Ramparts, we enter'd into a Hall in the Governor's Lodgings, to see a score of Soldiers who were exercising their Postures, and practi­sing Spanish Sarabands against the Solemnity of Corpus-Christi-day, when they were to dance be­fore the Procession.

The principal Buildings in Milan, without mentioning the Churches and Convents, are, the Palaces of the Governor and Archbishop; the Houses of the Marquess Homodeo, Count Barth. Arese, and Signior T. Marini; theThis Structure was founded by Charles Bor­romeo, and built by Joseph Mela. A double Portico 176 foot and 3 inches long, and 16 foot 10 inches and a half broad, goes round the great square Court on the inside. The first Order is Doric, and the second Ionic. Over the great Portal stands Piety, having on her Breast the Sun, who is the Father of Light; and on the other side Wisdom, with swel­ling Breasts full of Provision for her Children. C. Torre. Se­minary; the Colleges of the Switzers, of Breva, and of the Jesuits; the Town-house, and the chief Hospital; the great Court of the last-nam'd Structure is a Hundred and twenty paces square, with two rows or stories of Portico's about the inside, both which are supported on every side by Two and forty Pillars of a kind of Marble found in the neighbouring Alps, every Pillar consisting of a single Piece. The Body of the Edifice is of Brick, moulded and fa­shion'd into several Ornaments of Architecture. The old Hospital is join'd to this, and both to­gether make but one.

TheBegun 1489, by Duke Lewis Sforza, call'd the Moor, and fi­nish'd by Lewis XII, 1507. Bra­mante was the Architect of this Structure. Lazaret or place appointed for the en­tertainment of those that are sick of Pestilential Distempers, depends on the great Hospital, and is situated about two or three hundred paces from the City. It consists of four Galleries join'd in a square, each containing Ninety two [Page 218] Chambers, and surrounded on the inside with a Portico supported by Marble Pillars, every Chamber being twenty foot broad, or some­what less; 'tis plain, that the length of each Gallery comprehending the thickness of the Walls must amount to about Eighteen hundred Feet. The great Place within is a Meadow wash'd by several Brooks of running Wa­ter; and in the middle of the square is an Al­tar under a Dome supported by Columns. The Doors of the Chambers are so contriv'd, that all the sick Persons may see Mass said from their several Beds.

The Church, which at present bears the name of St. Ambrose, is the same into which that ancient Doctor refus'd to admit Theodosius. There are Pictures and Sculptures in it, which are the Productions of the most ignorant Ages. They made us also take notice of a Dragon of Brass, that stands on a Marble Column. Do­nato Bossi thinks it is a Figure of Aesculapius's Serpent:Tristan Caleo suspects that it is a Memorial of some extraordi­nary Event, like the Goose in the Capitol. See the Exercitationes Sacrae of Georg. Maebius, de Ae­neo Serpente. Morigi, Besozo, and some others, say, That this is a Representation of the Serpent that Moses erected in the Wilderness, and pro­duce some Passages of Chronicles that seem to favour their Opinion. Others pretend that it was cast out of the Fragmenta of that Serpent: and the People are firmly perswaded that this is the Serpent of the Wilderness in proper Per­son,II Kings 18.4. and in that belief have recourse to it on certain occasions, as to one of the most effectual Relicks. Bossi and Charles Torre declare, That they have been several times Eye-witnesses of the Adoration paid to this Image.

[Page 219]In the Church of St. Eustorgia they preserve the Tomb that contain'd the Bodies of the Three Kings, before they were remov'd to Colen. They pretend that the Odour of Sanctity which re­mains in this Sepulchre compleats the Cure of Diseases, tho' it never undertakes any that are difficult. But you must not imagin that they are destitute of Remedies in such cases, for they have as good Madona's and as powerful Relicks at Milan as any are in Italy. At St. Alexander's alone there are a hundred and forty four thou­sand Martyrs of the Catacombs of St. Se­bastian.

The other Curiosities of this place are Works in Steel, and in Rock-Crystal, which is found not far off in the Alps; they make Looking-glasses of the largest pieces, which rarely amount to a foot square.

The Proverb says, that He that would do a Kindness to Italy must destroy Milan; which some think alludes to the Trade of Milan, that would be dispers'd thro' the rest of the Country: but others believe this Apophthegm was occasion'd by reason that the mostThis City has been 40 times besieg'd, and 22 times taken. Du Val. fatal Wars to Italy have always had their Original in this City.

We had the Curiosity to go two miles from Milan to the Marquess of Simonetta's House, to hear an Eccho that repeats the last Syllable aboveLucretius extols an Eccho that answer'd seven times: Sex etiam septem loca vidi reddere voces Unam cum jaceres — l. 4. forty times. We made the experiment in a cover'd Gallery in one of the wings of this Building, and the Eccho answer'd from the other [Page 220] Wing. The Sound decreases gradually, like the reboundings of an Ivory Bullet.

In our Journey from Milan to Pavia, which is but fifteen miles distant, we went a little out of the way to see the famousIn the Plain of Barco. Monastery founded byThe same who founded the Ca­thedral of Mi­lan. All the Pictures in the Chapel of St. Mi­chael were done by P. Perugini, Raphael's Master. In the Vestry there is a Christ crown'd with Thorns, by Passignani, which is much esteem'd. The Pictures in the Quire were made by Daniel Crespi. John Galeas Visconti, first Duke of Milan. The Body of the Church is of a Gothick Architecture, but the Chapels and Altars are not inferiour to the richest and finest Pieces in the Churches of Naples. The Cloyster is also very fair, and the Parks, Gardens, Rivers, Avenues, and other Ornaments of this House, make it a very charming Solitude. There are at present Fifty eight Monks in it.

PAVIA.The poor little City of Pavia has lost its an­cient lustre. 'Tis impossible to divine by what remains of it at present that it was once the Metropolis of a Kingdom, and the Residence of twenty Monarchs. The Castle is an old neg­lected Heap, and the Fortifications are in a very mean condition. A Traveller may satisfie his Curiosity by passing thro' the great Street, the rest of the City being almost desolate.

Founded by Charlemain, and re-establish'd by Charles IV. Boetius was a Native of Pa­via.As far as we could judge, the University is much decay'd as well as the Town. It consists of Five Colleges, among which that of Borromeo is chiefly remarkable for the beauty of its Buil­ding. The Scholars walk thro' the City in their Gowns, and those of every College have diffe­rent Robes.

[Page 221]Over-against the Cathedral, which is an old, low, and dark Structure, and built awry, there is a Figure on Horseback of Brass, which is is thought to be a Statue of Antoni­nus Pius; 'tis commonly call'd the Regisol, In the Life of Pope Gregory the Second. There is a kind of Mast of a Ship to be seen in the Cathedral, which is thought by the People to be Or­lando furioso's Spear. tho' for what reason I know not. I find it had the same Name in the time of Platina, who thinks it was brought from Ravenna, when that City was taken and sack'd by King Luitprand.

It was the same King Luitprand who, accord­ing to the Tradition, brought the Body of St. Austin from Sardinia to Pavia, and buried i [...] in St. Peter's Church, which at present belongs to the Augustin Friars; but the place where the Body lies could never be discover'd, and the magnificent Tomb of Marble in the Chapel, at the side of the Church, is only an honorary Monument erected by the Monks.

In a Bookseller's Shop at Pavia, I found by chance the History of that City written by Bernard Saccus, one of its Inhabitants, who, among other things, gives an account of the Translation of St. Augustine's Body; the Story is thus, as I transcrib'd it out of the Author: In Templo D. Petri à Luitprando edificato, conditum Augustini corpus fuit; & ne facilè resciri posset, fe­runt Luitprandum tribus locis effossis, structisque sepulchris, alibi deinde nocte, paucis operi adhibitis, jussisse corpus condi, omnibus sepulchris eâdem nocte, occlusis, ut certâ corporis sede ignoratâ, difficilior in aevum fieret occasio, ejus perquirendi rapiendique. Constructum deinde alio seculo Sacellum Divo Augu­stino fuit, juxta Templum divi Petri, in quo Sacello, Arca marmorea ac celebris, composita est, Augustini, Sepulchrum repraesentans. B. Sac▪ l. 10. c. 3.

[Page 222]The same Author says, That the Land about Pavia produces naturally very good Asparagus twice every year; and, that the Country People for the most part eat the Roots raw.

He relates also, That the Po, which at pre­sent is five or six miles distant from Pavia, did formerly change its course; and that its ancient Channel is still to be seen about Five hundred paces from the City. This gives light to cer­tain Passages in old Geographers, who place Pavia near that River. Padus, adds that Au­thor, saepe totus ab alveo prosiliens, alium sibi ex­templo alveum sine fossoribus eruit. Si ab Apennino aquarum copia irruat, fluctus in adversam ripam tor­quet; contra verò, si ab Alpium latere, aquarum impetus fiat. Si ex utrâque parte, effertur supra modum.

The Tesin is so rapid, that in less than three hours, with one Rower, we sail'd above Thirty miles, says D. Burnet.Coming out of Pavia we pass'd the Tesin on a cover'd Bridge. This is a very rapid River, and the greatest of all those that fall into the Po. Its Inundations are dreaded by the People of the Country, because its Waters are fatal to the Fields which they overflow. When these Inundations last eight days, which happens but seldom, the coldness of the Water kills the Herbs, and the Land hardly recovers its fertility for some years after. How different are the Waters of this River from those of the Nile.

Pavia was formerly call'd Ticinum, from the name of the River that washes its Walls. Sac­cus relates, That its name was chang'd when Odoacer, In the year 472. after he had destroy'd it, granted an Immunity of five years to the Inhabitants, with permission to rebuild their City: they call'd it [Page 223] Papia quasi piorum Patria, from the Piety of its Citizens; not, as some vainly imagin, because they receiv'd the Christian Religion at that time, for they were Christians long before, but to de­note the Love, or (as the word is sometimes us'd) Piety, which those Patriots express'd for their Country, who went to Ravenna to beg the King's Mercy and Pardon. Me si audieritis, said one of those Deputies after their return, nomen inveniemus quod nostrae pietatis officia in Patriam restituendam, paucis Syllabis posteritati attestabitur; & Ticini nomen aquis restituetur. Papia piorum Patria, &c.

I shall add only one Observation concerning this City; That two Kings had the Misfortune to be taken Prisoners here: Desiderius by Charle­main, and Francis the First by Charles the Fifth. I am,

SIR,
Your &c.

LETTER XXXII.

SIR,

FIfteen Miles from Pavia, we din'd at the Town of Voghera, Voghera. and the same day ar­riv'd at the little City of Novi, Novi. which is seated at the foot of the Apennine, thirty miles from Genoa, and under the Dominion of that Re­public. The way between Novi and Genoa is very mountainous, and we met with nothing worth our Observation on all this Road.

GENOA the Proud.You know the City of Genoa is situated at the end of a Gulph, partly on the brow of a Hill which forms a Crescent round the Gulph,From the Year 1494 to 1528, the State of Genoa was sub­ject to above twelve kinds of Government. and partly on a little Plain between the foot of the Hill and the Sea-shore. The Streets in the general are extreamly narrow, and the Houses consist of six or seven Stories in the lower part of the Town; but by degrees, as the ascent ri­ses, the Houses are lower, and built at a greater distance. This situation is certainly very plea­sant to the Eye, but in other respects very trou­blesome and inconvenient, especially for Coaches, which are not much us'd here: the Ladies are carry'd in Litters, and the Men of Quality have either Chairs or Calashes, which they guide them­selves.

[Page 225]The Town is surrounded with a double For­tification, which covers it behind, and reaches on both sides to the Shore. The nearest and best of these Fortifications properly encompasses the City, and the second encloses all the rising Grounds that command it.

My Eyes have often convinc'd me of the Falshood of what I had formerly heard, but I never observ'd a wider or more remarkable difference between the Accounts I receiv'd from others, and my own Observation, than with respect to this City. 'Tis confidently reported and generally believ'd, that Genoa is built of Marble.Rubens com­pos'd a Treatise of the Palaces, of Genoa. They who live at a distance from it scarce ever mention it without adding this Ob­servation concerning it, which is grown so com­mon, that 'tis almost turn'd to a Proverb. But, which is still more surprizing, several Persons that have seen it, are so accustom'd to that way of speaking, that they cannot forbear re­lating the same Story, either because they have seen it without considering it attentively, or because they chuse rather to leave the World in an Error than to disturb so pleasant a Dream. And perhaps some are willing to take advan­tage of this general Prejudice, which gives 'em so fair an opportunity to embellish that part of the History of their Voyages.

But, after all, I can assure you 'tis absolutely false, that Genoa is built of Marble; Brick and Stone, or both mix'd together, are the ordinary Materials of its Houses, and they are almost all cover'd with Plaster.

[Page 226]'Tis true, there are some Houses in the Strada nu [...]va that are richly adorn'd with Marble, and even the Fronts of four or five of 'em are al­most wholly built of it, but these are all the Marble Houses in Genoa; and I leave you to judge whether this be a sufficient Reason to pretend that the whole City is built of Marble, or whether it might not be affirm'd on better grounds, That London is wholly built of Stone, or Paris of Brick.

But tho' Genoa is not wholly built of Marble it may justly boast of some very beautiful Stru­ctures; for the Houses are extreamly large and fair in the five or six Streets that are of a considerable breadth, and in the magnificent Suburb of S. Pietro d'Arena. And besides, Slate and Glass are as common here, as they are rare in most other parts of Italy.

I have heard so often of the Gardens in the Air, that are to be seen in this City, that I think my self oblig'd to give you some account of 'em. If the Relations of Travellers were exact­ly true, and things were call'd by their own proper Names, those who never saw Genoa would not form such lofty Ideas of these pre­tended Gardens in the Air, as if they were Machins of an Opera, or Imitations of the fa­mous Gardens of Semiramis. There is so lit­tle even Ground in this City, that, as I inti­mated before, they are oblig'd to make the Streets narrow, and the Houses very high, from whence you may reasonably conclude, that there is not much spare room for Gardens. To supply that Defect, several Persons adorn the Balconies of their Houses with Flower-pots, [Page 227] and some perhaps cover 'em with Earth, when the Buildings are all to bear the weight of it; these are the Gardens in the Air that make so great a noise in the World, tho' there are many other things that are not so much as heeded, which in this sence may be said to be in the Air.

The most beautiful Edifices receiv'd no hurt by the French Bombs, which were level'd direct­ly at the Heart of the City, where the Houses were thickest; and 'tis but too apparent they were not thrown there in vain; for notwith­standing all the Reparations that have been made since, there are at present above Five hundred ruinous Houses in one part of the City. And most of the private Sufferers in that gene­ral Calamity had the double misfortune to lose all that they had, by losing their Habitations; so that they were not only incapacitated to re­build 'em, but even were not able to pay the charge of removing the Rubbish. 'Tis plain then, that they who have a mind to see Genoa the Proud, must not look for it here.

In the Church of Our Lady of the Vineyards they show'd us a Bomb which fell there with­out doing the least execution, and I believe would gladly have told us, that this was an Effect of its Reverence to so sacred a place, if some less respectful Bombs had not thrown down four or five other Churches, and as many Convents.

During that fatal showre of Fire and Brim­stone, the Doge, with thirty Persons more, took shelter in the great Hospital call'd the Albergo, which being very high and large, not only [Page 228] afforded a safe retreat to a great number of the Inhabitants, but preserv'd a considerable part of their Goods, for they brought thither all that could be carried. They are at present working on a Third Mole, which will stretch further into the Sea than the other two, and (they hope) secure 'em against the danger of a second Assault.

The Haven of Genoa is large, and of a con­venient depth, but it lies open to the Lubeccio or African Wind, which is almost South West, and is the most dangerous Wind that reigns in in this part of the Mediterranean. So that they were forc'd to make a little secure Harbour within the Port for their Galleys, of which at present they have only six; to so small a num­ber are the once formidable Navies of Genoa now reduc'd.

The Pharos or Watch-Tower is very high, which here, as at Rochel, is call'd the Lanthorn Tower. To see the whole City distinctly, it must be view'd from three several places; from the top of this Tower, from the Sea about the distance of a mile, and from the top of its Hill. These three different Prospects are sufficient to give a compleat Idea of the Town.

The Palace of the Republic, or the Public Palace, call'd Palazzo Reale, is extreamly large. Here the Doge and Dogess lodge, and two or three Senators, with their Families, besides some inferiour Officers of the State. We visited the little Arsenal in this Palace, where we saw a Rostrum of the old Roman Ships, which is made of Iron, and ends in a Boar's Head: there is an Inscription at the side of it, which says, That it [Page] [Page]

The Doge of Genoa

Vol. 2. P. 229.

[Page 229] was found in the Harbour of Genoa, by some that were employ'd to cleanse it. They also made us take notice of some Cuirasses, which they told us were worn by certain Genoese La­dies in a Croisado against the Turks; and we con­cluded from the Figure of the Breast-pieces that they were made for Women.

The Ladies usually appear in Gowns after the French manner; and the ordinary Women wear little Fardingales.

The Noblemen never wear Swords. They are not ty'd to any particular sort of Habit, but they are usually cloth'd in black, and in Cloaks. They stile themselves Dukes, Mar­quesses, Counts, &c. whereas the Noble Vene­tians, as I told you before, assume none of these Titles.

We saw all the Members of the Senate as­sembl'd in a body, and in their Formalities, at the Procession on Corpus-Christi-Day. The Doge was in a Crimson Gown, with a sort of square Bonnet. Two Battel-axes and a Sword in the Scabbard were carried before him, and a Sena­tor march'd on each side of him, in black Gowns of the same fashion with his own.

The Doge is stil'd, His Serenity; the Senators,The Doge ought to be Fifty years old compleat. Their Excellencies; and the Noblemen, Most Illu­strious. 'Tis true, this last Title is not very honourable in Italy, where 'tis usually given to any man that wears a Ribbon in his Cravat, yet the Genoese Noblemen, as well as those of Ve­nice, compose the Great and Soveraign Coun­cil, both these States being purely Aristocra­tical.

[Page 230]The Doge of Genoa has no more Authority than the Doge of Venice; yet the first is crown'd with a Royal Crown of Gold, and a Scepter is put into his Hand, because of the Kingdom of Corsica, which is actually under the Dominion of that Republic.

When the two years of the Doge's Admini­stration are come to an end, Deputies are sent to the Palace to tell him, that His Serenity's time is expir'd, and that His Excellency may retire to his own House.

To return to our Procession; the Streets were hung with Tapestry, and spread with green Herbs; all the Windows were full of Ladies dress'd to the best advantage, and deck'd with the richest Ornaments they could procure; they had Baskets full of Flowers, which they strew'd on the Procession, according to the diffe­rent Inclinations of their Hearts, sometimes out of Devotion toSo they call the Sacrament the Most Holy, and sometimes out of Civility or Affection to the young Gen­tlemen of their acquaintance, who follow'd the Procession: all their Peruques were powder'd with 'em, and for every handful of Favors they receiv'd, they made low Reverences to their fair Benefactresses.

The Church of the Annunciata is the finest in Genoa, but notwithstanding all its Beauty and Magnificency, 'tis far inferiour to many that I have already describ'd; and therefore I will not trouble you with a particular account of it, I shall only observe that it was built at the charge of oneOf the Family Lomellino. Citizen of Genoa, which is the most remarkable thing that can be said of it.

[Page 231]I will not lose time in relating the Story of the Crucifix at St. Jerome's, which spoke to St. Bridget; tho' the rare Discourse that pass'd between 'em might perhaps divert you for some Moments.

At St. Mary's of the Castle there is another,In the Cathe­dral there is a great Dish made of one single Emerald, in which, if you will believe the common Tradi­tion, the Pas­chal Lamb was serv'd up when Christ eat the Passover with his Disciples. Venerable Beda says, the Lamb was brought in a Silver Dish; but Madam St. Bridget thought fit to substitute one of Ivory; and why might not you or I with as much reason venture to say, that it was an Earthen Dish. Du Val thinks this Emerald Dish was one of the Presents which the Queen of Sheba made to Solomon. which is particularly honour'd by Maids, for the following reason. A Gentleman who had for a long time courted a young Lady with a design to deceive her, resolv'd at last to have recourse to the usual Stratagem of gaining his Mistriss by a Promise of Marriage, which he did, says the Story, in a place of the City where this Crucifix stood at that time: I will not undertake to describe all that pass'd be­tween 'em on this occasion; but the Gentleman refus'd to fulfill his Promise. The abus'd Lady enter'd an Action against him, but could pro­duce no Witnesses to prove her Accusation. The Case was just going to be decided against her, when she remember'd that the Promise was made in the presence of a Crucifix, to which she appeal'd, and beg'd the Judge with Cries and Tears to go to receive the Testimo­ny of her new Witness. Her Request was granted, and some Persons were deputed to in­terrogate the Crucifix, which answer'd only with a Nod; but considering the manner in which the Questions were propos'd, that Sign could not be otherwise interpreted than as a confirma­tion of the poor afflicted Lady's Pretensions: and therefore the Court ordain'd, that the Mar­riage should be solemniz'd the same day. Thus the injur'd Lady obtain'd her desire, and to crown her good Fortune, the Gentleman's [Page 232] Heart was touch'd, he obey'd the Sentence with Joy, and the happy Pair became a memorable Instance of Conjugal Affection.

The Ashes of this Saint are kept in the Ca­thedral, in a Shrine supported by four fine Co­lumns of Por­phyry, which were brought from Smyrna Ann. 1098. Gal. Guald. Prior.St. John Baptist and the Emperor are the two Protectors of this Republic. The Image of the former is stamp'd on its Coin, which is the fairest in Italy, and besides, of the richest Alloy.

The Trade of Genoa is very much decay'd; it consists particularly in Velvet, Point, Gloves, dry Confections, Anchoveys, and several sorts of Fruits. There are some private Persons very rich, but the Republic is poor. Neither Corn nor Wine are sold in the Markets, for the Government reserves that Trade for its self: There is not a Pint of Wine sold by the Inn-keepers, but what is brought from the Cellar of the State; and since they gain nothing by the sale of Liquors, they make the most of their other Commodities. The Bakers are also oblig'd to fetch their Corn from the public Granaries.

These are the most material Observations I have made during my short stay in this City. The Canon Ferro has a Cabinet of Curiosities. I am,

SIR,
Your &c.

LETTER XXXIII.

SIR,

IN our Journey from Genoa to Cazal we were oblig'd to return by the way we came, to Novi, where we hir'd a Coach to Turin, and the next day din'd at the little City of Alexan­dria.

The Art of besieging Towns was hardly known when Frederic Barbarossa's Army lay six months before Alexandria, ALEXAN­DRIA. without being able to take it. The Fortifications of this place are very mean.

That Emperor call'd it Caesarea, but Pope Alexander III. would have it nam'd Alexandria. 'Tis false that ever any Emperors were crown'd in this City with a Crown of Straw: and I be­lieve 'tis hard to prove the Truth of another Story, which says, that Frederic in derision call'd it Alexandria of Straw. However, it re­tains that name to this very day.

Cazal is a well fortified City,CAZAL seated on the right Bank of the Po. The old Castle is not useless, but the new Citadel is a very impor­tant place. It has six great Royal Bastions, Half-Moons before the Curtains, a broad and [Page 234] deep Ditch full of Water, and an Arsenal fur­nish'd with Arms for Ten thousand Men. There were formerly some Irregularities in the Fortifications, but the French have put all things in order. I must not forget to tell you, that they have doubl'd all the Bastions; for the old Bastions were so large, that there was room enough within 'em to make a second Rampart, which without the least confusion forms a new Bastion in the middle of the former. The Town belongs still to the Duke of Mantua, who receives some inconsiderable Duties from it, and the French Garrison keeps it for him.

Leaving Cazal, we pass'd a fourth time over the famousThe Po. Eridanus, and our Coach for a long time after follow'd the Banks of that Ri­ver. We pass'd by the Gate of Trin, a little fortified Town, in that part of Montferrat which belongs to the Duke of Savoy. Verrua is a much stronger place, on a rising Ground, on the right side of the Po.

Eight miles from Cazal we enter'd into Pied­mont, the Land being still level. As we ad­vanc'd further, we found our selves engag'd among the Mountains, in a large and flat Valley almost entirely surrounded with the highest Alps. Where this Plain is good, no­thing can be better, but there are some places in it that do not at all merit that Character.

Hail is the Scourge of Piedmont. As we pass'd along we took notice of two or three large spots of Ground, where but two days be­fore it had made a prodigious havock on the finest Corn-fields in the World. The Straw [Page 235] was chop'd and driven into the Ground; and even the Walnut-trees, Vines, and other Trees were half broken.

They reckon but Five and forty miles from Cazal to Turin, but the miles in Piedmont and Montferrat are much larger than the common miles of Lombardy.

Turin is situated in a Plain,TURIN. on the River Doire, Three hundred paces from the Po. 'Tis a very pleasant Town, all its Avenues are chearful and delicious; and that which makes us more sensibly charm'd with the free and agree­able Humour of the Inhabitants, is our Abhor­rence and late Experience of that intolerable Sowreness and Unsociableness that reigns over all the rest of Italy, where we convers'd more with Statues than Men. With respect to the manner of living, Turin is not inferiour to the politest Cities in France: the Language of that Kingdom is as commonly spoken here as the Italian; the People are generally well bred and handsom, and there is not a Court in Europe more sprightly and gay than that of the Duke of Savoy.

The old part of Turin cannot boast of much Beauty, but the new half is built after a quite different manner. The Streets are broad, and streight as a Line, the Houses large, high, and almost all uniform. There cannot be a finer Street than that which passes thro' the two open Places, and reaches from the Castle to the new Gate. Both these Places are large, and of a re­gular Figure; but the new one is encompass'd [Page 236] with Houses in exact Symmetry, and a large Portico runs all about it.

There is the old and new Palace.The Duke's Palace makes not so fine an ap­pearance on the out-side as the Apartments within it are beautiful. The Palace of the Je­suits, and that of the Prince of Carignan, are but just finish'd, and seem to be very magnificent: I name that of the Jesuits first, because it ex­cels the other.

Tho' this City was almost doubl'd under the late Duke, 'tis still of a very indifferent large­ness: the same Prince enclos'd it with a regular and well-lin'd Fortification, The Citadel is very strong and handsom, tho' not yet quite finish'd; 'tis countermin'd throughout, and has the conveniency of a good Well, where Horses go down and come up without meeting, by a sort of double Stairs without Steps, which wind about so often, that the Descent is very easie.

The Rows of Oaks on the Ramparts of the Town make a very pleasant Walk, which has also the advantage of a very fine Prospect, especially towards the Rivers; but the greatest Concourse of People is usually about Valentin, a House of Pleasure on the Banks of the Po, about a mile from Turin. The Duke has se­ven or eight others, all well furnish'd, and kept in good order.

I must not forget to give you some account of theOf Guarini's Architecture. Chapel that is almost finish'd at the Cathedral, to the honour of the Holy Handker­chief. 'Tis certainly very magnificent; but, instead of telling you as some have done, that [Page 237] it excels the Chapel of St. Laurence at Florence, I can assure you 'tis not at all comparable to that noble Structure. If you have not forgot the Description of that Florentin Chapel in one of my former Letters, you may easily make the parallel between that and this of Turin: af­ter I have told you that they are both of al­most the same figure, but that the last is less than the former, and will be only embellish'd with black Marble.

TheMr. Reiskius has written a Dissertation de Imaginibus Chri­sti, where you may find many curious Remarks on this Relick: He demonstrates, that neither this nor several others were ever heard of, till Venerable Beda publish'd his vain Imaginations in his Treatise de locis Sanctis. This Reverend English Priest died about the middle of the Eighth Age. pretended Holy Handker­chief is the most important and valu'd Relic in Turin, as you may judge by the honour that is shown to it. Tho' this Relic ought to be the only one of its kind in the World, 'tis reproduc'd or mul­tiply'd in five or six several pla­ces at the least, to mention on­ly such as I know. There are, I think, two of 'em at Rome, at St. Peter's and St. John de Lateran, one at Cadoin in Perigort, one at Besancon, one at Compeigne, one at Milan, and another at Aix la Chapelle. I can't imagin how the Controversie between these Competi­tors can be decided, since they all produce Pa­pal Bulls to confirm their Titles; but the Handkerchief of Cadoin seems to have the advan­tage over the rest, as being authoriz'd by four­teen Bulls, whereas that of Turin can only shew four.

Since we are just going to take leave of Italy, I shall take this occasion to entertain you with some Observations which I either forgot or had not opportunity to insert in my former Letters. [Page 238] Our short stay in the places thro' which we pass'd would not suffer us to spend much time in making acquaintance with the People of the Country, and consequently we could not be very particularly inform'd of their Customs: neither do I intend to enter on that Subject, but only to communicate some Remarks to you without any other order, than as they shall offer themselves to my Memory.

I said nothing of the Princes or Courts either in Germany or Italy, because I thought it not convenient to describe 'em with all that Sin­cerity and Freedom which I must necessarily have us'd to acquaint you with their true Cha­racters. When a Prince is the Subject of a Discourse, 'tis almost impossible to avoid Flat­tery and Lies, and therefore I chose rather to be silent, than to hazard the being guilty of either. I shall only tell you, that Mr. B. was every where receiv'd with all the Honour and Respect that are due to his Personal Merit and High Birth; and these Civilities were sometimes redoubl'd, by reason of the Acquain­tance and Friendship between some of those So­veraigns and his Grandfather the Duke of Or­mond, and the Knowledge they had of his Fa­ther the late Earl of Ossory, and several other Persons of that illustrious Family.

The Duke of Modena is of great stature, handsom, and resembles the Queen his Sister considerably, tho' he is of a brown Complexi­on. He is Master of several Qualifications that are able at once to inspire both Love and Re­spect. He discours'd with me almost an hour concerning some particular Observations we had [Page 239] made in our Travels, and especially concerning England.

I could not give you an account of those Academies of the Curious, that are establish'd in almost all the Towns of Italy, because I had not time to enquire particularly about 'em; but if I may give credit to the Information I re­ceiv'd from several Persons, they are certainly very inconsiderable Societies. The affected oddness of their Titles is very singular, for they are not much unlike to the Names which the Grooms in France give to their manag'd Horses; I shall only mention a dozen of 'em: Thus the Academists of Genoa call themselvesAddormen­tati. Drowsie; those of Naples, Ardenti. Burning; those of Alexandria Immobili. Immoveable; those of Rome Fantastici & Humoristi. Fantastical or Humorous; those of Viterbo Ostinati. Obstinate; those of Siena Intronati. Benumb'd or Sottish. At Perusa they stile themselvesInsensati. Mad; at Parma Innominati. Name­less; at Bologna Otiosi. Idle; at Milan Nascosti. Con­ceal'd; at Ancona Caliginati. Obscure or Confus'd; at Mantua Invaghiti. Amorous; at Rimini Adagiati. Easie or Pliable; and at Macerata Catenati. Chain'd. I perceive I have skip'd from place to place, without observing any order, but that is not material.

We were treated with a great deal of Civi­lity and Kindness by the Italians, as far as we could judge by outward appearances: but, to deal plainly, their Complaisance is a mixture of Flattery and Design. We found also by expe­rience, that the People of this Nation are very sober. The Inns in the little Towns, especially on certain Roads, are very ill furnish'd with [Page 240] Provisions. The first Course, which by way of excellence they call the Antipasto, is a Plate of Gizerns, Ends of Wings, and Birds Feet boil'd with Salt and Pepper, and mix'd with Whites of Eggs; after which course, come two or three small Dishes one after another of different Ragou's. Between Rome and Naples the Travel­ler is sometimes regal'd with Buffalo's and Crows, and he's a happy man that can meet with such Dainties: the Buffalo's Flesh is black, stinking, and hard; there are none but the most beg­garly Jews at Rome who eat it, and the Beast must be hunted, otherwise 'tis impossible to chew its Flesh.

They have all the various kinds of Wine in Italy, but the best sorts are least abundant: about Rome there is the Wine of Gensana, Alba­no, and Castel Gandolfo, in all which places the Soil is the same. The Greek Wine of Naples, and the Lacryma Christi are strong, but the small Asprino bianco, and the Chiarello piccante seem'd more agreeable to our taste, tho' they are much less esteem'd. At Florence and Montefiascone the richest Wines are pleasant, and have no more Fire than what is convenient for ordinary Drink, but there is no great quantity of 'em; the Great Duke's delicate Moscadello grows in a little Vine­yard, and is consecrated to his own use, or to be sent as Presents, but never dispers'd thro' the Country: there are also some good sorts of Wine near Verona, and in the State of Genoa.

About Loretto the Casks are made short and broad like a Dutch Cheese; but towards Pavia their length amounts to seven times their diame­ter.

[Page 241]Towards Parma and Placenza, Leand. Alberti says, he saw at Parma four Cheeses which weigh'd Five hundred pounds each. where there are excellent Pastures, they make Cheese of all their Milk. Butter is scarce in Italy, in­stead of which they use Oyl in all their Ra­gou's and Fricasies; but tho' they draw it from their own Olive Trees, 'tis oftentimes worse than in those Countries where none of these Trees grow; for the Fruit that will yield the best price and keep longest is always transpor­ted.

We have not seen the chief Season for Fruit in this Country. At Venice, where we stay'd two months in the Winter, we had white Grapes of Bologna very firm, and of a most delicious taste. At Naples we eat Winter-Melons; and at Genoa we were entertain'd with all sorts of small red Fruits, and I never saw so good and large Cherries as there. The Country about the River of Genoa is peculiarly excellent for Fruit.

It may be truly said of Genoa, that its Hills are without Wood; but all the rest of the Pro­verb is false, Men without Faith, Ladies without Shame, and a Sea without Fishes. There are both Rogues and Honest men every where, and we found by Experience that there are very good Fishes in the Sea of Genoa. I took plea­sure two or three times to go in the morning to see the Fishing at Naples, where I observ'd se­veral sorts of Fishes that I had never seen in other places. The Gulf of Cajeta abounds with Sturgeon, some of which are also found in the Tiber.

[Page 242]In all our Travels thro' Italy we never saw either a Hare or Partridge in the Fields; and I might also add, that we saw as few in the Inns. 'Tis very strange, in my opinion, that these Animals are not more plentiful, since the Coun­try is not wholly destitute of 'em. My Rea­sons are these: In the first place, there are large extents of Ground in Italy, which are almost uninhabited, and consequently ought to abound with Game, proportionably to the like places in the New World. And, secondly, it might be reasonably suppos'd that the Game should be more plentiful here than in other places, because the Lords of those Grounds are never wont to reside on 'em, and yet are no less jealous of their Rights than the Gentlemen of other Coun­tries.

In England and France there are many Persons of Quality who pass their time in the Country; but that is not the Custom in Italy, where all Persons of Note live in the Cities, out of which there are neither Castles nor great Houses to be seen, which belong to private Persons, or at least they are very rare, especially if we com­pare this Country with France, for I am not so well acquainted with England,

To return to our Game; it must be ac­knowledg'd, that Quails are not so great Rarities here as Partridges, for when the Spring approa­ches they come in Flocks from Afric, and cover the whole Country. These poor little Crea­tures are so tir'd with their long Voyage, that they throw themselves into Ships, and whereso­ever they can find a place to repose themselves. [Page 243] They may be caught in heaps without the least trouble, but since they are extreamly lean, those who take 'em usually feed 'em for some time before they eat 'em. I believe 'tis uncertain whether these Birds fly over the Sea, or whether they do not sometimes swim to take breath: 'tis indeed hard to conceive that the Quail which has not a strong Wing, and flies heavily, should be able to continue its flight so long. But, on the other side, I'm inclin'd to believe that the Water would so moisten and drench its Fea­thers, that it could never spread its Wings again. And, besides its leanness and weariness, the Dangers to which it exposes its self, and its ea­gerness to find a resting place, are, in my opi­nion, convincing Arguments that it flies all the way without intermission.

I saw but one Scorpion in Italy, and I could not learn that these Animals are very mischie­vous in this Country. There are several ways to guard against 'em; but I never saw any of those hanging Beds that are usually talk'd of. The People about Verona make use of Iron Bedsteads, which they place at some distance from the Walls, that those Insects may neither breed in 'em nor be able to come up on the Beds; and the Feet of the Bedsteads are fil'd and polish'd, partly for the same reason. If the Animal its self can be caught, and bruis'd on the part which it stung, 'tis a certain Remedy; and there are also Salts and Oils extracted out of it, which produce the same effect. But af­ter all, the stinging of Scorpions is not mortal in Italy; and besides, such Instances happen so [Page 244] very rarely, that they who are desirous to travel into Italy ought not to be discourag'd by 'em.

The Tarantula had its Name from the Terri­tory of Taren­tum, where there is abun­dance of those Animals. See the Treatise which Sanguer­dius wrote con­cerning 'em.There are two sorts of Animals to whom the Italians give the name of Tarantula; one is a sort of Lizard, whose Biting is reputed mortal, 'tis found especially about Fondi, Cajeta, and Ca­poa; but this is not that which other Nations call the Tarantula: the true Tarantula is a Spider, and lives in the Fields. 'Tis said, there are many of 'em in Abruzzo and Calabria, and they are also found in some parts of Tuscany. They that are stung by this Creature make a thousand different Gestures in a moment: they weep, dance, vomit, tremble, laugh, grow pale, cry, swoon away, and after few days of torment, expire, if they be not assisted in time: they find some Relief from Sweating and Antidotes, but Music is the great and only Remedy. A learned Gentleman of unquestion'd credit told me at Rome, that he had been twice a Witness both of the Disease and of the Cure: they are both attended with cir­cumstances that seem very strange,Alex. ab Alexandr. assures us, that he was an Eye-witness of the same; and relates several curious Instances on this occasion. Dier. Ge­neal. l. 2. c 17. but the Matter of Fact is well attested and unde­niable. I think I could pro­duce natural and easie Reasons to explain this Effect of Music, but, without engaging my self in a Dissertation that would carry me too far, I shall content my self with relating some other Instances of the same kind, which may satisfie any ingenious person. Every one knows the infallible efficacy of David's Harp to restore Saul to the use of his Reason.1 Sam. 16.23. I remember Lewis [Page 245] Goyon, in his Lessons, has a Story of a Lady of his acquaintance,Albert. Krant­sius writes, that Henry IV King of Denmark hearing that a certain Musician boasted that he could either vex or please those who heard his Music, and even lay 'em asleep, or put 'em into a fury, was desi­rous to try the Experiment in his own Person; which succeeded so effectually, that the King in the heighth of his Fury kill'd several of his Courtiers with his Fists. Theophrastus and A. Gellius affirm, That Music charms and asswages the Pains of the Gout. who liv'd a hundred and six years without ever using any other Remedy than Music, for which purpose she allow'd a Salary to a certain Player on Instruments, whom she call'd her Physician. And I might add, that I was particularly acquainted with a Gen­tleman very much subject to the Gout, who infallibly receiv'd Ease, and even sometimes was wholly freed from his Pains by a loud noise. He us'd to make all his Servants come into his Chamber, and beat with all their force upon the Table and Floor, and the noise they made, in conjunction with the sound of a Base-Viol, was his soveraign Remedy.

Highway Robbers are no more dangerous in this Country than Scorpions or Tarantula's; for there have not been any Banditi at Rome since the Pontificat of Sixtus V, and I think I told you, that the Marquess del Carpio has extirpated 'em out of Naples. I do not remember that ever any person was put to death in all the places thro' which we travell'd, during the time we stay'd in 'em. There is not a City perhaps in the whole World where Executions are so rare as at Venice; the Hangman has a very poor Trade on't. They who are under the Patro­nage of a Nobleman, which is a thing very ea­sily obtain'd, may rob and cut Throats as often as they please, only they must take care never to commit a Villany in a public place, or that may make too great a noise.

[Page 246]At our Entry into most Cities our Pistols were taken from us, but we always found 'em at the other Gate at our departure. This is a consi­derable Circumstance, for at the end of the Voyage the Charge amounts to as much as the Pistols are worth. 'Tis not lawful to wear Swords either at Genoa or Lucca, but that Privi­lege is readily granted to Strangers when they desire it. The Bayonet is prohibited in Cities; but in the Country every one may wear what Arms he pleases, and even they who travel on Horseback oftentimes carry Fusees. The Stiletto's of Milan are famous for the genteel Stab, and they do their Work effectually.

Love and Jealousie are the two Furies that shed most Blood in Italy. The Italians are said to be Jealous without any reason, and the least suspi­cion puts 'em into a Fit of Rage.

Not only at Venice, as I intimated before, but every where else, the Girls are sent to Nun­neries in their Infancy, and they are usually mar­ried without seeing their future Husbands; on­ly the Girls of the lowest rank are suffer'd to remain with their Parents; and 'tis not with­out much difficulty that they are able to find Yoke-fellows. I am not so well acquainted with the Customs of other places, but at Rome there are several Funds establish'd, either to marry poor Maids, or to confine 'em for ever to a Convent. These Charities are distributed with almost the same Ceremonies that are ob­serv'd in the Minerva, which I describ'd in one of my former Letters.

[Page 247]I observ'd in the Churches at Rome, that in Lent the Women are shut up in a place under the Pulpit, enclos'd with Rails six foot high.

There are several Trees and Plants in Italy, which grow neither in England nor (for the most part) in France, unless perhaps in the Southern parts of it.The greatest Palm-tree in Rome is in the Cloister of St. Peter ad Vin­cula. The Palm-tree is a Stranger in Italy, and rarely bears Fruit there. In the Gar­den of Simples at Pisa there is a male and fe­male Palm-tree planted together, agreeably to the ancient Error of those who thought such a Marriage was necessary to make those Trees fruitful. But this is a meer Fable; for I ob­serv'd a Palm tree alone full of Dates, at the Villa Mellena, on Monte-Mario.

We went to the Pope's Chapel on Palm Sunday, where all the Cardinals were assembl'd, and he who officiated for the Pope presented a Palm-branch to every one of the rest; these Bran­ches were almost five foot long, and the Leaves were woven together into Knots of several Fi­gures. We saw that which was sent to the Pope: all the Prelates and other Ecclesiasticks had also Branches, which were either greater or smaller, according to the Dignity of those who bore 'em. The Laicks use only Olive-branches.

I have already told you,In M. Badoueri's Garden at Ve­rona there are Cypress-trees a hundred foot high, and two hundred years old. The Citrons of Florence, call'd Cedrats, are the most excellent of all these kinds of Fruit. Silk-worms were brought to Europe from Japan and China. that we saw seve­ral Trees growing in this Country which I had not observ'd so commonly any where else; I shall now proceed to name some of 'em besides the Palm-tree, such as the great Maple, the Cork [Page 248] tree, the Jujub tree, Carob tree, Olive-tree, Myrtle, Pomegranate tree, the Caper shrub, Scarlet-Oak, Cypress, Sena, Lentisk or Mastic-tree, the great Indian Fig-tree, the Oak that bears Galls, the Shrubs that bear Cotton and Fistic-nuts, and several sorts of Orange and Citron-trees. The Ways are al­most every where border'd with White Mulberry-trees, for the nourishment of Silk-worms.

Those who love Simples will find enough to gratifie their Curiosity on the Appennin Moun­tains between Loretto and Rome, and every where in the Alps; but they must have more leisure than we had.

I gather'd some Sponges on the Sea-side to­wards Terracina, of which two were in a man­ner rooted on very hard Flints, the rest lay loose on the Shore.

These Sponges put me in mind of Pumice-Stones; and I must not forget to tell you, that I spent some time to no purpose in searching for these Stones on Mount Vesuvius, tho' 'tis gene­rally said to be full of 'em. This must certain­ly be a Mistake: there are indeed many po­rous and calcin'd Stones on that Mountain, which resemble Pumice-stones, but after I had consider'd 'em attentively, I soon perceiv'd the difference. I have not any certain knowledge of the formation of Pumice-stones, or of the pla­ces where they are found, but I believe they are natural Productions.

The Mountains of Italy, and particularly the Appennin Hills, are well stor'd with Metals, Mine­ral Waters, Crystal, Alabaster, a kind of Agat, and several sorts of Marble, but the Marble of the Archipelago has brighter colours. The White [Page 249] Marble of Carrara is one of the finest sorts in Italy, and a great deal of it is transported to France.

The Winter has been very sharp and long, almost all the Oranges and Citrons were frozen, and the Ground under the Trees was cover'd with 'em in the above-mention'd places, where those Fruits are most common.

I observ'd that they take a great deal of care at Rome to preserve themselves from the Incon­veniences occasion'd by the Heats, which are usually very troublesome in that place. The great Lords have low Apartments, where the Sun ne­ver appears, which are pav'd with Marble, and furnish'd with Fountains and Water-spouts; and besides, the Doors and Windows are so contriv'd, that they are never without a cool Brize. The Beds are encompass'd at some di­stance with a Circlet of Gawze or Tiffany, which is join'd close to the Boards of the Floor and Ceiling above and below, and hinders 'em from being tormented with Gnats.

'Tis also the Custom to sleep two hours im­mediately after Dinner, but they never lye down; for they have a sort of folding Chairs which are usually garnish'd with Leather, and have Backs that rise and fall with a Spring.

The use of Ʋmbrello's is common every where.

The Serain or Evening Dew in Campagna di Roma is esteem'd mortal, during three or four months in the Summer, and great care is taken to avoid it. Travellers double their pace to ar­rive at Rome in time, or stay at the distance of eighteen or twenty miles from it.

[Page 250]I found the following Verses over the Gate of a House at Rome; they contain the Rules that ought to be observ'd for the preservation of Health in that City.

Enecat insolitos residentes pessimus Aer
Romanus; solitos non bene gratus habet.
Sospes ut hic vivas, lux septima det
Mark 2.17.
Medicinam;
Absit odor foedus; sit modicus (que) labor.
Pelle Famem & Frigus; fructus femur (que) relinque;
Nec placeat gelido fonte levare sitim.

That is, The Roman Air is fatal to Strangers, and troublesome even to the Natives. If you would live securely here, observe the following Rules; Take Physic every seventh day, avoid stinking Smells, use moderate Exercise, Fence your self against Cold and Heat, abstain from Fruit and Women, and quench not your Thirst with cold Water.

You may observe by the bye, that the Author chose rather to run the hazard of a false quan­tity, than to lose the Jingle of his four F's. He might have said Venerem instead of Femur, the first Syllable of which is short, Et corpus quaerens femorum, &c. Mart.

I have not given you an account of the Antiquity of several Cities. I confess, Enquiries of that nature are very curious, but besides that they require a great deal of time and labour, and have been prosecuted already by very able Pens: I find that these Controversies are usually meer Questions concerning Names of Places, for in many of these Cities there are not the least Re­mainders or visible Marks of their ancient Foun­dations; and they have been subject to the same [Page 251] Alterations which the Vessel of the Argonauts underwent of old. To conclude, the sight of the Places might perhaps raise a Traveller's Curiosity; but that wears off by degrees when they are only the Objects of his Imagination.

I must tell you, now I think on't, that in all Italy we observ'd but one Wind-mill, or rather the Ruins of one at Leghorn.

They use no Tin-Vessels in this Country, because of the scarcity of that Metal. All their Vessels are made of Earth leaded, or of [...]. We have seen [...] made in se­veral places, but there is none that resembles Porcelain so exactly as that of Delft.

Whereas we place the begin­ning of the natural Day imme­diately after Midnight, The Babylonians, began their natural Day at Sunrising, and the Jews at Sunsetting, as the Italians do at present. The Inha­bitants of the Province of Um­bria, with Ptolomy, and some others in former times, reckon'd the beginning of the Day at Noon, and the Egyptians at Midnight, as we do. The ancient Romans did also begin the Day at Midnight, but their Hours were unequal. the Ita­lians make it begin after Sunset­ting, and their Clocks strike al­ways Four and twenty hours from one Sunsetting to another: you may easily perceive that ac­cording to this computation, the Hour of Noon varies daily; for when the Sun sets at Four a-clock according to our calculation, they reckon One when we count Five, and consequently the next day 'tis Noon at Twenty hours. And in like manner, when the Sun sets at Eight on our Dials, 'tis One a-clock with them, when we reckon Nine, and 'tis just Noon at sixteen hours. Nevertheless, with respect to the artificial Day between Sunrising and Sunsetting, they use the words Yesterday and To morrow, as we do.

[Page 252]I cannot forbear acquainting you that we left Rome without having seen the Pope; there were doubtless some Reasons that would not permit him to appear in public, and there were others that hinder'd us from paying him a Visit.

I shall conclude this Letter with telling you, that we bought some modern Medals at Rome, from the famous Hameranus, who is reputed to excel in that sort of Workmanship. Of all the Medals we saw of Queen Christina, this, in my opinion, is one of the most Heroical and most worthy of that great Princess: Her Do­minions are on the Reverse with the whole He­misphere, and this Motto, Ne mi bisogna, ne mi basta; I want nothing, and yet I have not enough. Alexander the Great could use the last part of this Motto, but instead of reigning over himself, his Ambition made him desire more Worlds.

I shall only add an Inscription, which one of my Friends transcrib'd just now from the Pede­stal of a Statue of Justice in the Convent of the Jesuits.

Quae Dea? Sacra Themis. Quae Patria? Regna Tonantis.
Qualis Origo? Fuit Sanctus uterque Parens.
Cur Frontem Facies aperit formosa severam?
Nescio corrumpi, non amo Blanditias.
Aurium aperta tibi cur altera, & altera clausa est?
Una patet justis, altera surda malis.
Cur Gladium tua Dextra gerit? cur laeva Bilancem?
Ponderat haec causas, percutit illa Reos.
Cur sola incedis? Quia copia rara Bonorum:
Haec referunt paucos saecula Fabricios.
Paupere cur cultu? Semper Justissimus esse
Qui cupit, hic magnas vix cumulabit opes.
[Page 253] What Goddess art thou? I am Sacred Justice.
What happy Region boasts thy presence? Heaven.
Whose Offspring art thou? I'm of holy Race.
What sullen Glooms hang o'er thy lovely Face?
I cannot fawn nor bribe, nor will be brib'd.
Why hast thou one Ear shut, and t'other open?
This to the Good, that to th' Unjust I turn.
What mean thy brandish'd Sword and well-pois'd Bal­lance?
That strikes the Guilty, this gives Righteous Judgment.
Why stand'st thou thus alone?All Men avoid me.
Why in so Poor a Garb? Few Just are Rich.
I am, SIR, Your &c.

LETTER XXXIV.

SIR,

Veillana.WE lay at Veillana the first night after our departure from Turin, next morning we pass'd by the Gate of Susa, SUSA. a little City, seated among the Mountains, by which 'tis commanded almost on every side, and din'd at Novalesa, Novalesa. Mount Cenis. at the foot of Mount Cenis.

This is the highest Mountain of the Alps, over which there is a Passage; but you must not conclude from thence that it is another Caucasus or Tenerif; neither must you fancy it to be a single Hill, or that the Way lies over the top of it. For when a Traveller comes to the highest part of the Passage, he finds him­self in a Plain, or a new Valley, with respect to the lofty Mountains that surround it.

At Novalesa we took Mules to ascend the Hill. The Way is pretty broad, and free from Precipices, but uneven and full of Stones. On the highest accessible part of it there is a Cross that divides Piedmont from Savoy, and conse­quently is one of the Boundaries of Italy. In the middle of the Plain there is a Lake of so great a depth, that, if we may believe the com­mon Report, its Bottom could never be reach'd by sounding; it is a large mile in compass, and [Page 255] sends forth a great Brook, which falls into the little Doire near Susa.

The Snow was almost all melted on the Hill; 'tis true, the highest tops of the Mountain on both sides were cover'd with it, but there were only some Heaps left here and there in the pas­sage. The tumbling of the Snow makes the passage dangerous in some places, and in some Seasons of the Year, otherwise there is no dan­ger at all in it.

The side of the Hill towards Savoy is much rougher than the other, and Travellers are usually carried this part of the way by Men, tho' they might pass it on Horseback, as Char­lemain's Army did heretofore. They made us sit down in ordinary Chairs, to which they had fasten'd Arms like the Shafts of a Litter. We were each of us attended by four Men, two who bore the Chair, and two more to relieve their Fellows.

At the foot of the Hill we pass'd the little River Arche, on a Bridge of Wood, to the Village of Lasneburg.

I have almost nothing to relate concerning Savoy. The Country is generally mountainous, and we found hardly any thing remarkable in that part of it thro' which we pass'd.

Chambery, the Metropolis of the Dutchy,CHAMBERY. formerly the Residence of the Dukes, and now the Seat of a Parliament, is a very small and unfortified City, seated at the foot of the Mountains near the Confluence of the Lessa and Orbana, neither of which is navigable. We were [Page 256] told, that its Inhabitants are very civil and the Ladies handsom.

S. JOHN DE MAURIENNE.St. John de Maurienne is situated in a pleasant Valley of the same name. We pass'd by with­in two hundred paces of the City, without en­tring into it, being credibly inform'd that it was not worth the while to go so far out of our way to see it.

MONTME­LIAN.Neither did we stop at Montmelian, which is a little City on the right Bank of the Isera, defen­ded by a Citadel indifferently strong.

AIX. Aix is much frequented by reason of its Baths. I know not whether you have observ'd that the French Name of those Towns that are call'd Aix is deriv'd sometimes from Aqua, and some­times from Augusta: Aqua Sextiae, Aix in Pro­vence; Aquisgranum, Aix la Chapelle; Augusta Alorum, Ais or Auchs in Annagnac.

About Annecy we found the whole Country in a general Consternation for fear of the Vau­dois; there was a Report, That above Two thousand of these poor Exiles were enter'd into Savoy, towards Evian, and had already burnt five or six Villages: but there was not the least Ground for such an Alarm.

The Dutchy of Savoy is separated from the Territory of Geneva by the River Arve, over which there is a Bridge of Wood that leads al­most to the Gates of Geneva. The Arve is a great Torrent, which falls from the Mountains, and always brings some Gold-dust along with it, [Page 257] but it happens very rarely that a Man is able to refine so much of it in a day, as he might earn at some other Work; and therefore this Gold is almost wholly neglected.

I will not undertake to give you an account of the Antiquity, Government,GENEVA. or History of Geneva, of which we have had so many De­scriptions. I shall content my self with giving you a general Idea of this City, to which (since I had occasion formerly to be pretty well ac­quainted with it) I shall add some particular Observations.

The Rhone, at its coming out of the Lake, forms a little Island. On the right Bank of the River, or rather toward its right Channel, the Land is low and even, but on the other side there is a Hillock that rises insensibly. The principal part of the City is seated on this Hil­lock, the rest of it is in the Island, and beyond the Rhone; and the whole is encompass'd with a Fortification.

The Republic of Geneva is in League with the Switzers, The Republic of Geneva enter'd into a perpetual League with that of Bern, An. 1536, which has been fre­quently renew'd since. J. Simler. particularly with the Cantons of Zurich and Bern, and in this their great Strength consists. Their Ramparts may preserve 'em from a sudden Surprisal, and might perhaps protect 'em against all the Force of Savoy. But tho' these Fortifications are not contemptible, they could not long resist a more potent Ene­my, if the State had nothing else to depend on.

They have good store of Cannon, and a well-furnish'd Arsenal, where they preserve the famous Ladders that were made use of by the Savoyards In the year 1602. in the Scalado of which you have [Page 258] doubtless read an account. In the same place they keep the Petard that was design'd to burst open the new Gate. These are two lasting Monuments of their Deliverance, in memory of which they still continue to solemnize aDecemb. 12/22. Fe­stival, with Thanksgiving, and extraordinary Sermons suitable to the occasion, and also with little Feasts, or rather with joining the Meals of several Families, according to the various Tyes of Relation and Friendship, by which they are united: They never part without sing­ing a Song that was made about the time of that Action, of which it comprehends the prin­cipal Circumstances, and is now become an essen­tial part of the public rejoicing.

The Republic keeps some Gallies on its Lake, and there are also others belonging to the Duke of Savoy and the Switzers. I say its Lake, for the Lake was given to the City by its Masters when it was a Roman Colony, and the common way of Expression at present seems to confirm that Donation.

The Duke of Savoy keeps aBelle-rive. Fort on the Bank of the Lake, at the distance of a large league from Geneva, contrary to the Treaty of St. Julian, in which, among several other Arti­cles, it was concluded and ratified, That the Duke of Savoy should neither draw any Forces together, nor make Fortifications, nor keep a Garrison within four leagues of Geneva.

The Opinion of some ancient Authors, that the Rhone passes thro' the Lake without min­gling with its Water, is not only fabulous, but absurd and impossible, considering the length [Page 259] and crooked figure of the Lake. C. Frey After Polybus. Tarcagno is guilty of the same Mistake; and a thousand other Authors besides, who bor­row'd it from that ancient Historian. main­tains the same Error in his Admiranda Galliarum Rhodanus in Lacum Lemanum influit, & impermix­tis aquis & aquarum colore, ex eo effluit. But my Eyes have often convinc'd me of the Falshood of this Assertion.

The Water of this Lake is extreamly pure and limpid; it affords several kinds of excellent Fishes, but its Trouts are most famous:The pound of Geneva contains Eighteen Oun­ces. The Lake is well stock'd with ex­cellent Fish, but their numbers do sensibly de­crease, and one sort is quite lost, it is not only to be ascrib'd to the ravenousness of the Pikes that abound in it, but to another sort of Fish, that they call Mou­tails, which were never taken in the Lake till within these six years last past; they are in the Lake of Neufchastel, and some other Lakes of Switzer­land, and 'tis likely that by some convcyance under ground they may have come into Channels that fall into this Lake. G. Burnet. I have seen several of 'em that weigh'd Fifty pounds each,and I know there have been some found bigger than these by a third part. These Fishes are seldom found so big in other places; but this is not a thing without Example, as some imagin. In one of the Halls of the Arsenal at Munick I saw a Figure of a Trout that was taken out of a little Lake in that Country, and weigh'd Seventy three pounds.

Perhaps an account of the usual way of catching Trouts at Geneva will not be unplea­sant to you. You must know, that at a certain time of the year that Fish descends from the Lake to the Rhone, and at other times returns back to the Lake: now, to take advantage of these Comings and Goings, which constantly happen at the usual times, they have planted Piles cross the River, where it comes out of the Lake, at such a distance, that the great Fishes, whether ascending or descending, cannot pass thro' 'em, unless at certain open places which are [Page 260] the Mouths of great Weels of Wire, where they remain till they are taken out. This Fishery is let out to Farmers by the State, and makes a part of its Revenue. The Piles are thus dispos'd:

[figure]

They kill great store of Fowls on the Lake in the Winter. It was frozen in the year 1572. and sometimes it rages like a little Sea.

Geneva is neither large nor very fine; yet it may be justly call'd a very lovely Town. 'Tis impossible for a Stranger that has staid some time in it to leave it without reluctancy. It has the advantage of pleasant Walks; and the Conversation of the Inhabitants is very familiar and easie. The common People are clownish, but honest; and the Persons of note are ex­treamly kind, civil and ingenious.

Their Academy is furnish'd with able Profes­sors, and they have also several learned Mini­sters. I know not whether you have heard that Mr. Chouët is advanc'd from his Profession of Philosophy to the Office of a Counsellor; the public Advantage makes amends for the loss of others by his removal. Mr. Mestrézat is so old and infirm, that the Theological Auditory is in a manner already depriv'd of that excellent Person; but Mr. Tronchin is still one of its great Luminaries; and Mr. Picctet supplies with a great deal of Success the place of his Uncle the famous Mr. Tu [...]retin.

[Page 261]I cannot forbear finding fault with the Peo­ple of Geneva, for allowing their Ministers in­considerable Pensions, and yet making 'em work too hard. There are in each Church two Mi­nisters call'd Semainiers, who both preach six or seven times following, from week to week, re­lieving one another. Suppose a Preacher to be one of the ablest and most diligent men in the World, yet it must be acknowledg'd, that Leisure is always a great Help for making a good Sermon. However, these Ministers preach in a very edifying manner. Mr. du Four, and Mr.Since the first Edition of this Book Mr. Calen­drin is made Professor of Di­vinity, in Mr. Mestrezat's place. Calendrin, the two indefatigable Ministers of theSt. Peter's Church. principal Church, have long undergone the toil of so rigorous a Task, and continue still to perform the Duties or their Office with a general Approbation.

The late Revolution in France has lessen'd the number of Students of Divinity; but to make amends, since all those Exercises are taught here that young Gentlemen are wont to learn, there are many Protestants in Germany and else­where, who, for the sake of Religion, chuse ra­ther to go to Geneva than France.

The poor Vaudois, who were brought hither in a manner half dead, were receiv'd by the In­habitants with all imaginable marks of Compas­sion and Charity; and the French Refugiés were also very kindly treated by 'em.

'Tis very remarkable, that before the Refor­mation the Citizens of Geneva, as if they had foreseen the Day of Grace that was reserv'd for 'em, accompanied their Arms with this Devise, Post tenebras spero lucem; Ephes 5.8. Rom. 11.13. I expect or hope for Light after Darkness. But after the pure Light of the [Page 262] Gospel shone upon 'em with unclouded lustre, they made some alteration in their Motto, in­stead of Post tenebras spero lucem substituting Post tenebras Lux, Light succeeded Darkness.

Tho' the Purity of their Manners is not perhaps perfectly agreeable to that of their Doctrin, yet if we compare Geneva, not to some abominable Towns in Italy, but to many others that are not reputed worse than the rest of the World,Anagram. Respublica Ge­nevensis. Gens sub Coelis vere pia. this City will appear to be the Seat of Sobriety and Moderation. There are vicious Persons here as well as in other places; but Debauchery is not upon the Throne. The Pastors and Consistories labour earnestly to sup­press it, and the Magistrates assist their pious Endeavours, by publishing Laws against Luxu­ry in Clothes, and severe Orders against Licen­tiousness. Formerly they punish'd Adultery with Hanging and Drowning, as they still do in some parts of Switzerland.

There are several rare Books and Manuscripts in the public Library, and among others, a very old Manuscript Bible of St. Jerom's Translation.

In St. Peter's Church they show the Tomb of Henry II, Duke of Rohan. I observ'd also the Sepulchre of the Great d'Aubigne, Grandfather of the Marchioness of Maintenon, in the Cloister at the side of the Church. Calvin was buried in the Church-yard of Plainpalais, without either Tomb or Epitaph.

I must not forget to tell you, that there is a Church for Germans, and another for Italians in this City; and there was also an English Church formerly. The most considerable Italian Families I know, besides those mention'd in my Letter [Page 263] from Lucca, are those call'd Gallatin, Sartoris, Pue­rari, Leger, Minutoli, Stoppa, Diodati, Offredi, Cerduini, andRubbati, Franconi, Mal­content, Butini, Bartolone, Car­nelli, Servini, Mirollio, Lambercier, Pelissari, Martini, &c. I think there are eight or ten more.

TheIf there is any credit to be gi­ven to the little Book call'd Sca­ligerana; the Savoyard Tongue was us'd in the Council in Jos. Scaliger's time; and all Men were prohi­bited, under pain of being fin'd, to speak any other. Savoyard Language is commonly spo­ken here, but all that are rais'd above the Dregs of the People speak also French. 'Tis true, their Dialect is none of the purest, but 'tis at the least as good as any that are us'd in most Provinces of France.

About four small leagues from Geneva, be­tween the Fort of Sluys and Mount Credo, the Rhone tumbles down a Precipice among the Rocks, and disappears entirely for some space: and therefore they who intend to go from Geneva to Lyons by Water, are forc'd to embark at Seissel, below the Fall and Rising again of the River. I am,

SIR,
Your &c.

LETTER XXXV.

SIR,

THERE cannot be a more pleasant way than the Road between Geneva and Lau­sanne; for, the whole way seems to be one con­tinued Hillock, very populous, and well till'd. We rarely lost sight of the Lake; and some­times on the other side we saw Piles of lofty and forked Mountains glittering with Snow.

The first night after our departure from Ge­neva we lay at the little Town of Morges, Morges. on the Bank of the Lake; from thence we disco­ver'd the Smoke of a Fire that did a great deal of mischief at Vevay, towards the end of the Lake, as we were inform'd next morning.

LAUSANNE.The situation of Lausanns is extreamly rough and uneven. We stop'd not there, nor in any of the little Towns we met with afterwards, there being nothing in 'em worth observa­tion.

Morat.On the Bank of the Lake Morat we took notice of a kind of Chapel, which is quite fill'd with the Bones of those Burgundians that were defeated in that place,On the 20th of July 1476, we observ'd the fol­lowing Inscription: D. O. M. Caroli inclyti & fortissimi Ducis Burgundiae Exercitus Muratrum obsidens ab Helvetiis caesus hoc sui monumentum reli­quit. A. 1476. to the number of [Page 265] Eighteen Thousand, by the joint Forces of Lorrain and Switzerland.

Bern is not a large City,BERN. tho' 'tis the Metro­polis of the most potent Canton in Switzerland; Only married Persons are ad­mitted into the Council. G. Burnet. it is almost wholly built of hewn Stone, but the Buildings are more solid than beautiful; the Streets are clean, parted by a Rivulet that runs in the middle, on each side of which there are cover'd Walks under Portico's, but they are too narrow. This City was built in the yearOthers say, 1191. On the 6th of March 1352, this City enter'd into the Swiss Confederacy. J. Simler. 1175, by Berthold IV, Duke of Zeringhen; and the common Opinion is, that it had its name from a Bear that was taken there, when its Foundations were laid, the word Bern signi­fying a Bear in the German Language, for which reason also it bears that Animal in its Coat of Arms; and there are Bears kept and fed here, as those of Geneva breed Eagles.

In this City we only visited the Arsenal and the great Church, the first of which is very well furnish'd, and in good condition. In one of the Halls there is a Statue of thatWilliam Tell. Citizen of Switz, who with an Arrow shot down an Apple that was plac'd on the Head of his own Child, fifty paces from him; and they are both re­presented in that posture. You know that cruel and extravagant Humour of the Gover­nor Grisler, join'd to several other Grievan­ces of the same nature,An. 1307, un­der the Empire of Albert I. gave birth to the Swiss Republic. Childrey relates, among other English Prodigies, That one Robert Bone of Cornwal shot a little Bird on the Back of a Cow: but this last Archer did not run so great a hazard as the other.

[Page 266]The following Inscription was lately plac'd over the Gate of the House appointed for Ma­nufactories:

I'm inform'd this Inscription was remov'd in October 1692, at the desire of the French Am­bassador. Tempore quo crassa Clericorum Ignorantia, cum gratia & Privilegio Regis, in verum Dei cultum fu­reret; atque DRACONUM operâ eos quos Huguenotes vocant, ferro, flammâ, & omnis gene­ris cruce, è Regno pelleret: Supremus Magistratus è ruderibus Coenobii olim Praedicatorum has Aedes ex­truxit, ut Pietatem simul & Artem Galliâ exulantes, hospitalibus tectis exciperet. Faxit Deus T. O. M. ut Charitatis hoc opificium, sit incremento Patriae. When the blind Ignorance of the Cler­gy, supported by the King's Favor and Authority, rag'd against the true Wor­shippers of GOD; and by a Mission of Dragoons with fire and Sword, and all manner of Torments, drove those whom they call Huguenots out of the Kingdom: This House was erected by order of the Supreme Magistracy, out of the Ruins of an old Monastery of Praedicant Fryars; that Religion and Art, banish'd together out of France. might here find a Hospitable Entertainment. May it please the most Great and Good GOD, that this Work of Charity may turn to the Advantage of our Country.

In the Church that belong'd to the Domi­nicans they preserve some Monuments of that memorable piece of Roguery acted by the Jaco­bin Fryars, of which you may have read an account [Page 267] in Lavater's Treatise of Specters. Henry Stephen relates it at length; and Nicholas Manuel, who translated it into the German Tongue, says, That it has been publish'd in all Languages. The Story, in short, is thus: After several violent Debates between the Jacobins and Cordeliers con­cerning the Conception of the Virgin, whom these last maintain'd to be exempted from Ori­ginal Sin;John Vetter, Stephen Boltz­horst, Francis Ulchi, and Hen. Steniker. four Jacobins of Bern, at the ear­nest solicitation of several others of the same Order, undertook to prove their Assertion by a Miracle; to carry on which design, they re­solv'd to counterfeit Apparitions, and under borrow'd shapes to speak in the night to a sim­pleJohn Jetzer. Novice; and after many subtile Contri­vances, they proceeded to make the Virgin her self tell him, that she was conceiv'd in Sin, hoping to perswade the People by the noise of these Apparitions. The Plot succeeded for some time according to their desire, the Novice was deceiv'd, he related his Visions, the People repair'd to him as to a Saint or Prophet, and the Opinion of the Virgin's immaculate Con­ception began to be publickly discredited: But the Monks push'd the matter too far, Jetzer at last perceiv'd the Cheat, and they finding themselves discover'd, at the first endeavour'd to gain him by Promises and Prayers, but after­wards proceeded to Threatnings, and attempted several times to poyson him; which he obser­ving, made his escape out of the Convent, and declar'd the whole matter to the Magistrate, who ask'd and obtain'dTwo Bishops and the Pro­vincial of the Jacobins. extraordinary Judges of the Pope to decide so intricate a Case. The four Monks, whom the management of their [Page 268] Intrigue had engag'd in a complication of the most enormous Crimes, were put to the Tor­ture, and confess'd all the Villany; after which they were deliver'd over to the Secular Power, degraded andAn. 1509. burnt in the public place. The Novice also underwent the Torture, but was at last acquitted.

SOLOTURN. The People of So­loturn are very superstitious; they had for­merly an Image of Christ on the Cross, habited like a Switzer. Soloturn is seated in a fertile Valley on the Ri­ver Aar, which passes also by Bern; itIn Celtis nihil est Soloduro antiquius, unis Exceptis Treviris, quarum Ego dicta soror. Simler pretends that Soloturn was built by Ninus. boasts much of its Antiquity, and in that respect as­sumes the Title of the Sister of Triers. Its Latin Name is written several ways by modern Au­thors, but in the Itinerary of Antonin 'tis call'd Solothurum, from a Tower, as some think, that was erected here in honour to the Sun. 'Tis encompass'd with regular Fortifications, which are lin'd with great pieces of a sort of white Marble. The French Ambassador always re­sides here, and 'tis the Opinion of the People, that he fortified the Town.

The People of Guastalla in the Dutchy of Milan are of the same opinion concerning theirDr. Burnet assures us, that in Sept. 1685 the Fortificati­ons of this place had already cost the Inhabitants above Two mil­lions. Fortifications, on which Five hundred Men are constantly at work. 'Tis impossible to per­swade 'em that the Fund of that Expence is in their Duke's Coffers: they acknowledge indeed that he might defray the Charge himself, but they have their own Reasons to believe the con­trary.

[Page 269] Basil is the largest, fairest,BASIL. This City was united to the Cantons 1327. J. Simler. and richest City in Switzerland, tho' 'tis surrounded only with a Wall defended by some Towers; and 'tis also famous for its University. The Rhine is already very broad and rapid at this place; it runs thro' the City, dividing it into two parts, which are join'd by a lovely Stone Bridge. That part of it next Germany is much less than the other, which is seated on a rising Ground.

The Bishop that takes his Title from this City has his Residence at Poirentru, as the titular Bishop of Geneva resides at Annecy; but neither of those Prelates have any Power or Jurisdiction over these Cities.

There are several considerable Libraries in this City, with someIn that which belongs to Mr. Sebastian Fesch there are many rare Pictures, and several ve­ry singular Me­dals, that are not to be met with any where else. Ch. Patin. The Cabinet of Erasmus and Amersback be­longs to the University, where there are also Twenty Original Pieces by Hol­ben, among which the dead Christ is particularly esteem'd, and might have been sold for a Thousand Ducats. There are four excellent Series's of Medals, Greek, Consulary, and Gold and Brass Imperials; the Gold Medal of Pho­tina, Trajan's Wife, is one of the most rare. The following Epigram is under a Picture of Erasmus, that represents half the Body: Ingens ingentem quem personat Orbis Erasmum, Hic tibi dimidium picta Tabella refert. At cur non totum? Mirari desine Lector; Integra nam totum Terra nec ipsa capit. Among the Manuscripts in the Library there is a very rare Virgil, and an Alcoran written on China Paper. Ch Patin. Cabinets of Curiosities. The Body of the Senators assembl'd in Council with their venerable Beards and Accoutrements, is look'd upon as one of the most remarkable Rarities in this City, by those who are not accu­stom'd to such Sights.

[Page 270]Those who love Painting usually go to see the fine Pictures at the Town house, and espe­cially the Dance of Death, by the famous Holben, who was born in this City, and learn'd his Art without the help of an Instructor: and 'tis observ'd, that there is a certain peculiar turn in his Works. He was call'd to England by Henry VIII, and 'tis said he embrac'd that occa­sion with Joy, to get rid of his peevish Impor­tance at home. His Dance is to be seen in a public place, on the Wall of the French Church-yard; it represents a Train of all sorts of Per­sons, holding one another by the Hand, and carried to the Grave by Death, who leads the Dance: 'tis a Medley of Persons of both Sexes, and all Ages and Conditions.

'Tis a general Custom over all Switzerland, and even in the little Towns, to send a Present of Wine to Travellers of great Quality. They who bring it have a set form of Speech which serves indifferently for all sorts of Persons, only they must take care to insert the word Excel­lency and other Titles of Honour in their pro­per places, according to the Dignity of their Guest, which is sometimes as difficult a Task for 'em to perform, as for the Person to whom their Complement is address'd to forbear laugh­ing at their fine Harangue. But, after all, they expect to be answer'd in Money.

HUNNIN­GHEN.An easie Descent leads from Basil to Hun­ninghen, along the left Bank of the Rhine. The Cavalier erected in this place, on the Bastion that looks towards Basil, with the Battery of great Guns level'd against that City, are suffi­cient [Page 271] Indications that 'tis not far from the Vil­lage of Hunninghen to the City of Basil.

I will not undertake a particular description of the Fortifications of Hunninghen, but content my self with telling you in the general, that no Cost was spar'd to make 'em very good: the Rhine fills the Ditches, and forms a little Island over against the place, so that they were oblig'd to build a double Bridge over the two Arms of the River; and these Bridges are admirably well fortified, both in the Island and on the side next Germany.

From Hunninghen we came to Friburg, FRIBURG in Brisgaw. ano­ther important place four leagues from the Rhine; 'tis seated in a Plain at the Foot of the Hills, and tho' it encloses a large extent of Ground, the Fortifications that surround it are very good and regular. The Mareschal de Crequi took this place, after a Siege of nine days, in the year 1677. It has oftentimes chang'd its Lords, but never chang'd its condition so much as since the last Conquest. Its present Masters have in a manner fill'd the neighbouring Hill with heaps of Forts and Trenches pil'd upon each other, and by so doing have not only possess'd themselves of the high Grounds that command the City, but cover'd it with the Cannon of Forts.

They make several little Knacks in this City of a sort of Agat found in the Neighbourhood.

'Tis four hours Journey from Friburg to Bri­sack. BRISACK. I am not at all surpriz'd that this City was formerly call'd the Pillow of the Empire, for both [Page 272] its Figure and Strength deserve that Title. Imagin you see a Hillock, which seems to have been artificially rais'd of Beds of Earth laid on purpose, in the middle of a Country smooth as Ice. On one end of this little Hill or Pillow stands the Town; the Citadel is on the other; and both are encompass'd with an excellent For­tification at the Foot of the Hillock. There is a Stone Bridge over the Rhine, extreamly well fortified on the side next France.

SCHELESTAT formerly an Im­perial City. Schelestat is in the lower Alsatia, four leagues from Brisack, and three from the Rhine. It is situated in a flat Country, not commanded by any Enemy, and enclos'd with Fortifications that are of the same nature with those of the last-mention'd Cities. These places cannot be de­scrib'd without repeating the word Fortification a hundred times in a quarter of an hour.STRASBURG, formerly an Im­perial City. Stras­burg is a Prodigy which in that respect surp [...]sses all the other fortified places on the Rhine. The Plat-form I have sent you will give you a clearer Idea of it than the exactest description I could make. It was formerly an Imperial City, and follow'd the Doctrin of Luther.

You may remember that this Great, Fair and Potent City fell into the French King's Hands Sept. 30. 1682.

TheIts Heighth amounts to Five hundred seventy and four feet. It was finish'd in the year 1449. Mirabile opus caput inter nubila condit. Aen. Sylv. The Basso relievo's on the tops of the great Pillars of the Church are not so visible, but they are surprizing, for this being a Fa­bric of Three or Four hundred years old, it is very strange to see such repre­sentations as are there. There is a Procession represented, in which a Hog car­rieth the Pot with the Holy Water, and Asses and Hogs in Priestly Vestments follow to make up the Procession; there is also an Ass standing before an Altar as if he were going to consecrate, and one carrieth a Case with Relicks, in which one seeth a Fox, and the Trains of all that go in this Procession are car­ried up by Monkeys. Dr. Burnet, from Mr. Ablancourt. Steeple of the Cathedral is the highest [Page 273] Pyramid in Europe, and the Church is at present in the possession of the Roman Catholics. The Bishop said Mass there, and harangu'd the King, a few days after the Conquest of the City.

I can assure you (as one that has seen 'em both) that the great Clock of Strasburg does much exceed that of St. John's at Lyons, both in the variety and curiosity of its motions. They say at Strasburg, that the last-nam'd Clock is the best in France, but that theirs cannot be paral­lel'd in the whole World. There is a printed Description of it, with a very exact Figure.

The little River Ill runs thro' this City, and afterwards is branch'd out into several Channels. The Rhine is about a mile distant, towards the right hand.

The Arsenal, which not long ago was cele­brated over all Europe, is now almost quite dis­furnish'd.

The Womens Habit is very odd and fantasti­cal.

I must tell you, before I conclude my Letter, that all the Towns and Villages we have hither­to seen in Alsatia are either wholly ruin'd, or half burnt, this lovely and unfortunate Country having been several times laid waste during the Wars. I am,

SIR,
Your &c.

LETTER XXXVI.

SIR,

SOME particular Reasons having oblig'd us to leave Strasburg, and make all the haste we could to Brussels, we resolv'd to embark on the Rhine, tho' not without some reluctancy, because we had already travel'd the same way between Mentz and Colen.

Between Strasburg and the little City of Ger­mensheim we stop'd at Fort-Lewis, Fort-Lewis. which is ano­ther French Fort, and not inferiour to the rest in Strength. Here the Rhine makes an Island, which is cover'd with a Fort of four Bastions, and the two Bridges are fortified on each side, on the Banks of the two Arms of the River.

Night coming on somewhat sooner than our Boatmen expected, we were oblig'd to land at a miserable Village, where we could neither find Beds nor Victuals: but that was not our grea­test Misfortune, for an innumerable multitude of Gnats tormented us the whole night on our Straw in a Barn, and would not suffer us to rest a mo­ment.

PHILIPSBURGWe went ashore afterwards to see Philipsburg, which is a small Cannon-shot distant from the Rhine, on the German side. It was formerly aCa [...] Uden­b [...]. Village, fortified by Christopher Sotteren Ele­ctor [Page 275] of Triers, by reason of the conveniency of its situation, being naturally of difficult access, in the middle of a Marish, and not commanded by any rising Ground. 'Tis a regular Heptagon with Half-Moons before each Curtain. This Town is a Fief, and under the jurisdiction of the Bishopric of Spire; Since the first Edition of this Book, this place is faln again into the hands of the French. it was taken from the French after a long Siege, in the year 1676, by the Germans, who relying on the Faith of the Truce, have not a very strong Garrison in it.

Spire is a pretty little City,SPIRE, an Imperial Ci­ty. weak and with­out Trade, tho' it was famous heretofore: that which makes it considerable at present is the Im­perial Chamber, which, after it had mov'd from place to place for above Two hundred years, was fix'd here by Charles V. This Chamber is a Soveraign Court, where all the Affairs of the Empire that are brought before it, are judg'd without appeal, unless in some few Cases. The ChiefThis Judge must always be a Roman Ca­tholic, and has 4000 Crowns Salary. Of the two Presidents, one is a Roman Catholic, and the other a Protestant; and of the Fifteen Assistants there are only Seven Protestants, the rest being Roman-Catholicks. The Presidents have 2000 Crowns each, and every Assistant 1000. The Chamber never meddles with the Business of the War. 'Tis remarkable that the contending Parties can never discover the Names of those who state the Case, either before or after it is decided. They who appeal to the Empe­ror are oblig'd to consign a certain Sum, which, if they receive a favourable Sentence, is restor'd to 'em; if otherwise, they lose it. Heiss. Judge represents the Emperor's Person, and has the Imperial Scepter laid before him, as a mark of the Dignity with which he is cloth'd.

There is also another great Tribunal in Ger­many call'd The Council of the Court, because 'tis held at Vienna, or follows the Imperial Court. ThisThis Council is al [...]o compos'd of Members of both Religions. Council is not perpetual, nor, in all re­spects, [Page 276] of equal Dignity with the Imperial Cham­ber; yet Cases of the same nature are also de­bated, and soveraignly determin'd here. No Suits can be remov'd from one of these Cham­bers to the other; only in some cases a review of the Judgment may be obtain'd before the Empe­ror himself.

The express Orders which the Mareschal de Turenne receiv'd during the last Wars, not to disturb or interrupt the ordinary course of Ju­stice in the Chamber of Spire, makes the Mem­bers of that Court believe that they shall be still treated with the same Respect. And they are so firmly perswaded of theA little after the first Edition of this Book Spire and Worms were plunder'd by the French Troops, without the least regard to the Imperial Chamber. French Civi­lity, that tho' they lye open to an Invasion, in case of a Rupture, they never think of remo­ving either the Court or Original Records.

I shall pass from Spire to Colen, having no­thing to add to the account I have already gi­ven you of the Cities that lye between 'em.

JULIERS.At our departure from Colen we took the Road to Juliers, the Motropolis of the Dutchy of the same Name. As far as we could judge by the slight view we had of it, 'tis pretty well for­tified. Here the Protestants enjoy the free exer­cise of their Religion, by vertue of the Treaty which I mention'd before.

AIX LA CHA­PELLE, an Im­perial City; 'tis also call'd Royal, being perhaps honour'd with that Title, because according to the Tenor of the Golden Bull, the King of the Romans ought to receive his first Crown here. Heiss.Leaving Juliers, we pass'd thro' a good and pleasant Country, and in four or five hours came to Aix la Chapelle. That famous City is [Page 277] still large and beautiful, tho' it has lost much of its ancient lustre. It has also preserv'd its Liberty entire; only the Duke of Newburg, as Duke of Juliers, within whose Lands it lies, has a Right to name the Burgo-master. 'Tis under the Protection of the King of Spain, as Duke of Brabant.

ThisThis City is double: the in­ward City call'd Carolina is en­clos'd with its ancient Walls, Blond. City was almost wholly rebuilt by Charles the Great, having lain desolate for almost four Ages, after it was sack'd by Attila. The same Emperor endow'd it with several Privi­leges, made it the capital City of Gaul beyond the Alps, and honour'd it with his usual Residence. He built also the great Church, from which the Town took the Name of Aix la Chapelle, where­as before it was call'd Aquisgranum, from aThe old Tower join'd to the Town-house on the East side, does still retain the name of Granus or Gra­nius. Idem. Ro­man Prince nam'd Granus, a Brother or Kinsman of Nero, who having discover'd Mineral Wa­ters in this place, built a Castle, and laid the first Foundations of the City. Charles the Great At the age of 72 years, in the Fourteenth year of his Empire, the Forty eighth of his Reign, and of Christ 814. dy'd here, and his Tomb remains to this day.

For the space of above Five hundred years, several Emperors that succeeded Charles the Great were desirous to be Crown'd at Aix; and I think I told you that Charles IV. made a posi­tive regulation of this Ceremony, by one of the Constitutions of the Golden Bull, which ordain'd that the Emperors should afterwards receive their first Crown here; but that Custom has been laid aside for some time, and there remain only two Marks of the ancient Privileges of this City; first, there are Deputies sent both to Aix [Page 278] and Nuremburg, to acquaint 'em with the Electi­on of a new Emperor, that they may send the Imperial * Ornaments and other things necessa­ry for the Solemnity of the Inauguration,Aix sends some Relicks, a book of the Gospels written in Let­ters of Gold and one of Charles the Great's Swords, with the Brit I have already given an account of the Ornament that are kept at Nu­remburg. that are deposited in their hands. And secondly, wheresoever the Ceremony is perform'd, the Emperor declares solemnly, That tho' for some particular Reasons he could not receive his first Crown at Aix, that Omission shall not be inter­preted to the prejudice or diminution of the Privileges of that City. The Emperor is always a Canon of Aix, and takes an Oath for that pur­pose, on the day of his Coronation.

Some Persons here assure me, that both Reli­gions enjoy equal Privileges at Aix; but I must confess I forgot to enquire, when I pass'd by that City, and therefore I will affirm nothing positively.

I read t'other day, in a short description of the Country of Juliers, [...] Monulsus. and St. Godulrus Bishops of Liege. that two Canoniz'd Prelates gave themselves the trouble of rising from the Dead on purpose to be present at the Dedication of the Chapel of Aix, after which they march'd back to their Tombs. Does not this Story put you in mind of L. Q. Cincinnatus, who after he had been Dictator, and gain'd a Battel, return'd peaceably to his Plough.

MASTREICHT.We stay'd but two or three hours at Ma­streicht, a City of an indifferent largeness, pretty well built, and strongly fortified; the Garrison consists of between Nine and Ten thousand Men, and we saw theThe present King of En­gland. Prince of Orange take a review of 'em. Some Battalions perform'd se­veral Martial Exercises, and they are all extream­ly [Page 279] well disciplin'd. The little part of the City on the right Bank of the Meuse is call'd Wyek▪ I know not whether you have observ'd that the Names of Mastreicht and Vtrecht are both deriv'd from the word Trajectum, which is their common Name in Latin. Ʋtrecht was call'd inferius or ulterius Trajectum, and was the passage of the Rhine. And Mastreicht was nam'd Mosae Trajectum, the passage of the Meuse, and Traje­ctum superius, or the upper Passage.

About Three a-clock in the Afternoon we left Mastreicht, LIEGE. and arriv'd the same Evening at Liege, which we found so full of People,The Bishop's Seat was formerly at Tongres, from whence it was transferr'd to Mastreicht, and from thence to Liege. Heiss. by rea­son of the Ceremony of the Bishop's Election, that we could not be accommodated with Beds.

Liege is a pretty large City, populous, and adorn'd with some fine Structures, of which the Cathedral Church and the Bishop's Palace are the two principal. Formerly there was not a Chapter in the whole Empire so honourable as that of Liege. The Annals of this City relate, that in the year 1131, when the Emperor Lo­tharius II. was crown'd in this place by Pope Innocent II, the Chapter that assisted at the Ce­remony was compos'd of nine Sons of Kings, fourteen Sons of Dukes who were Soveraign Princes, nine and twenty Counts of the Sacred Empire, and eight Barons. But now any Li­centiate Doctor in the University of Lovain may be a Canon of Liege.

This City is divided by the Meuse into two parts, of which that on the left side of the Ri­ver is the principal. They are join'd by a fair Stone-bridge, which gives a passage under its [Page 280] Arches to great Barks, which bring all sorts of Merchandise, and are very convenient for Trade.

Coal is also found in France, in some parts of Auvergne, and in Forests.There are many Armorers in this place, who are drawn hither, without doubt, for the con­veniency of Coal, which is found here, and burnt as commonly as at London. 'Tis call'd Houille, from a certain Smith nam'd Good-man le Houilloux, by whom, they pretend, it was first discover'd. They add, that a Ghost, under the shape of an old Man cloth'd in white, shew'd him the Mine.

The Vineyards with which the little Hills of Liege are almost wholly cover'd, deserve to be taken notice of, because of the Climate, tho' the Wine is not strong. The same Hills contain Quarries of very fine black Marble.

Departing from Liege we pass'd in sight of Tongres and Saintron, and lay at the little City of Tilmont. Tilmont, or Tirlemont. The next day we din'd at Lovain, and arriv'd in the Evening at Brussels, where we still remain.

LOVAIN, the Metropolitan See of Brabant. One of the Laws of the Universi­ty ordains, that Whoremongers should be Behea­ded with a Wooden Saw, and Pimps, or those that are accessory to the commit­ting of Whoredom, banish'd. It was formerly the Privilege of the Dean of the Canons to receive the Oath from the Duke of Brabant, at his accession to the Soveraignty. The Well in the Castle is remarkable for its depth, and an Eccho that resounds in it. There is a Tower in the City call'd Verloren Kost, or Charge Lost, because the People of Lovain intended to have built Seven other Towers like to this, but were prevented by some Accidents, so that they erected only one. Voyage to Flanders by a nameless Author. There are some Vineyards about Lovain. Lovain, the second City of Brabant, is very large, and pleasantly built; 'tis said there are some Monuments in it of the age of Caesar. We visited several fair Churches, the Town-house, the School of Medicine, and some other consi­derable [Page 281] Structures; but, in my Opinion, the Ʋniversity is its greatest Ornament, which was founded by John IV, Duke of Brabant, in the year 1425. It contains Five and forty endow'd Colleges, with Schools of Divinity, Law and Physick.

An Inhabitant of Lovain, who happen'd to be in an Inn where we were, offer'd to carry us to a Convent a quarter of a league from the City, where he promis'd to procure us a sight of several Curiosities, but we had not time to accept of his Kindness. He told us, that among other things there was in that Monastery a Genealogical Stem of the House of Croüy, by which it appear'd, that the Head of that Fa­mily now living was descended in a right line from Adam. An English Gentleman, to whom I related the Story t'other day, assur'd me, that he knew several Families in Wales, who produce like Catalogues of their Ancestors. But don't ye think they might content themselves with deri­ving their Pedigree from Noah? If these Gen­telmen had readSee E. Pasquier, Part 2, Book 19, Letter 6. Le Feron's Heraldry, who in­forms us, that Adam bore Three Fig-leaves in his Coat of Arms, 'tis probable they would not make use of any other Scutcheon. I hope we shall meet with some noble Preadamites some time or other.

At Mr. Gutschoven's House, who is a Physician and great Anatomist, we saw several embalm'd Bodies, dissected after divers methods, and very well preserv'd, in which the Veins, Arteries, Muscles, Nerves, &c. are separated and distin­guish'd from each other, so that almost the entire Contexture of the Parts of a Human Body may [Page 282] be perfectly discern'd. The Veins, Arteries, and even the least Fibres, are fill'd with a cer­tain red matter, which makes 'em appear like so many Branches of Coral. This is esteem'd a rare Curiosity.

I must not forget to mention another Rarity which we saw at Milan. Some Dutch Mariners shew'd for Two-pence a Sea-Calf, which they had taken on the Coast of Greenland, and was grown so tame, that he who had the chief care of it could make it play a hundred apish Tricks. 'Tis about the bigness of a Lamb fifteen days old; its Hair is smooth, soft, and almost of an Olive colour; it has a short Head, with two Whiskers like a Cat,Pinnis quibus in mari utuntur, humi quoque vice pedum Ser­punt. Plin. and its four Feet end in Toes or Claws join'd like those of a Goose; it walks and stands on its fore-feet, and draws the other two after it, which are always stretch'd backwards. This Amphibious Creature is at pre­sent nourish'd with Milk. I remember, as we pass'd by the Hague, almost a year ago, a Lady of Zealand told me she had seen a tame Sea Dog at Tergoutz, who eat all sorts of Victuals, and bark'd like other Dogs, but made a duller noise.

I have been long expecting, with impatience, to hear from you; I entreat you to do me the favour to write to me as soon as you can. I am very sincerely,

SIR,
Your &c.

LETTER XXXVII.

SIR,

YOUR Reflexions on my last Letters, and several other Passages in that which I re­ceiv'd from you, might furnish me with suffi­cient matter for a very long Answer; but since I hope to have the honour to see you very spee­dily, I shall defer the further consideration of these points till our meeting, and at present on­ly communicate to you some of those Observa­tions I have made during our stay at Brussels,

I need not tell you,BRUSSELS. that this is the capital City of the Dutchy of Brabant, and the ordina­ry Residence of the Governors of the Spanish Netherlands.

This City is of an oval Figure, large, popu­lous, enclos'dOn one side there are some neglected Forti­fications, which were never lin'd. only with a Wall and Ditches, and situated partly in a Plain, and partly on the Brow of a little Hill. The low Town is divided by great Canals, which are fill'd by the little Ri­ver Senne, and communicate with that of the Scheld. These Canals are navigable by Barks of a considerable burthen, and are very convenient for Trade. The Air of Brussels is very good; the public places are adorn'd with Fountains, the Streets are of a convenient breadth and well pav'd, the Houses large and commodious, and the whole neighbouring Country is extreamly fertile.

[Page 284]The People of Brussels, and generally of all Brabant, are free, kind, civil, and perhaps a little too easie; but notwithstanding all their Simpli­city, they change their Humor when they are provok'd, and have on some occasions given suf­ficient Proofs of their Bravery.

The Palace, usually call'd the Court, where theThe Marquess of Castanaga, 1688. Since the first Edition of this Book the Elector of Bava­ria was made perpetual Go­vernour, 1691. Governour resides, is neither regular nor magnificent, and at most can be call'd moderate­ly beautiful; but the prospect of the Park from its principal Apartments is extreamly pleasant.

Descending from the Palace to the Park, on the end of a Wall near the little Garden, I ob­serv'd a great Gun, the Story of which deserves to be related; but that I may not detain you too long, I shall only subjoin theThe sum of which is, that one of the Ene­my's Ships being blown up by a Shot, that Can­non, together with a young Maid, were car­ried thro' the Air, and fell in the Palace, and that the Gover­ness of the Ne­therlands or­der'd the Maid to be educated. Inscription which is engrav'd on a piece of Marble beneath the Cannon:

Dederit ne viam Casúsve Deúsve?
Mirabili certe casu
Hostilis navis tormentis Regiis perforata
Cum accenso pulvere crepuisset;
Hoc tormentum, & unà Juvenculam
Altè sublatam in Regis Praetorio deposuit.
Adeo tutum in Rege non solum Innocentia
Sed etiam supplex hostilitas perfugium habet
ISABELLA CLARA EUGENIA
BELGII PRINCEPS
in rei monumentum
Tormentum hîc deponi, Juvenculam ali jussit.

From the Garden or Flower-plot you ascend to the Park, which is planted with Oaks, Beech-trees, and Walnut-trees, and contains a great [Page 285] number of Deer. Its lovely Alleys make one of the pleasantest Walks about the City; and you may also walk quite round the Ramparts, almost always between two rows of Trees.

On the other side of the Park there is a little House of Pleasure, which wasAfter he had resign'd his Power he retir'd to this House, and stay'd there five or six months. built by Charles the Fifth, and where among other things the Cradle of that Emperor is still preserv'd. In the great Hall of the other Palace he resign'd the Kingdom of Spain to his Son Philip.

Not far from thence they shew'd us a large Gallery full of several sorts of Arms and Fur­niture for Turnaments, besides ancient Suits of Harness or Armour of several Emperors, Kings, Archdukes, and other Princes or great Captains.

In the same place they have also taken care to preserve the Memory of three illustrious Hor­ses, whose Skins are glu'd on artificial Horses of the same stature with the Originals. They told us, That one of these Horses was sold for 12000 Crowns to Philip II, who made a Pre­sent of him to Lewis de Requesens, great Com­mander of Castil, andAfter the Duke of Alva. Governour of the Ne­therlands. The second had the Honour to bear the Infanta Isabella, when she made her Entry into Brussels. And the third sav'd the Life of Archduke Albert, at the Siege of Ostend.

One of my Friends gave me the Epitaph of the last of these Animals, whose Name was Noble; you will find in it a Reflexion worthy of a Horse of Merit.

[Page 286]
Siste gradum, Spectator; ego de nomine dicor
Nobilis; at Virtus nomine major erat.
Archiduci Alberto prostravi terga, tenacem
Cum circa Ostendam Martia Erinnys erat.
Hunc ipsum eripui pugnantem hostilibus armis,
Cum Mors sanguineum falce parabat opus.
Me magis ardebat Miles, quia Virginis instar,
Cernebat niveâ crescere fronte jubam.
Hinc, ut me raperet, crebrò sua spicula & enses
In caput ignoti struxerat Archiducis.
Evasi, eduxique Virum, meque ipse reduxit
Incolumem. Nostrae non erat hora necis.
Ast anno vertente, die quo evasimus ambo,
Nobilis interii. Cernite qualis eram.

There is a very odd Custom in this City, that Coaches are drawn by Dogs as usually as by Hor­ses. These Dogs are not extraordi­narily big. They Harness three or four Mastiffs, whom they place at one another's side, and make 'em draw prodigious weights. I am certainly in­form'd, that, on a Wager, two of those Ani­mals drew five Men in a Coach from one end of the City to the other. Besides, which is the main conveniency in this way of carriage, Dogs may be kept at a much easier rate than Horses, and here there are Eating houses or Half-penny Ordinaries for 'em, where they may fill their Bellies with Flesh taken from the Dunghills, and such other Victuals.

I believe M. is guilty of a Mi­stake, which doubtless proceeded from his misunderstanding the following Passage in Dionys. Halic. Mihi sane tria magnificentissima videntur, ex quibus maxime apparet magnitudo Romani Imperii; Aquaeductus, viae Stratae & Cloacae, reputanti non solum utilitatem operum, verum etiam impensarum magnitudinem, quam vel hinc licet conjicere, quod ut affirmat C. Aquilius, neglectas aliquando Cloacas, & non transmittentes aquas, Censores mille talentis purgandas locaverint. According to F. Nardin's Calculation, a Thousand Talents are equivalent to Six hundred thousand Crowns of Gold.Since it has been observ'd by some Authors that the Roman Censors caus'd the * Filth that [Page 287] was taken ex latrinis, or out of the Common-shores, to beM. confines the meaning of the Phrase to homi­num stercora, or Human Excre­ments; but this is a second Er­ror, for the Cloaca maxima was the Com­mon-shore or Sink of all man­ner of Filth and Nastiness, accor­ding to Livy, Receptaculum omnium purga­mentorum Ur­bis. sold, and that the price of it in one year amounted to Six hundred thousand Crowns, I may venture to acquaint you, that they drive the same Trade at Brussels. They gather all the Filth of the City very carefully into one place, and after it is duly fermented, it is bought and sold like other Commodities. I had the fortune one day to pass by that place just as three or four Dutch Barks were taking in their sweet Lading; this put me in mind of Juvenal's Reflexion, which I think could never be more fitly apply'd;

—lucri bonus ex re
Qualibet.—

You know Vespasian's Answer to Titus concerning the Imposition on Urine. As they are great Lo­vers of Flowers in Holland and Flanders, they take particular care to preserve this sort of Dung to make Beds for 'em; and I fancy the odori­ferous Smell of those Flowers might furnish matter for a Riddle, not unlike to that of Sam­pson's Honey.

To change the Subject of our Discourse, I can assure you that there are few Cities in this Country so well furnish'd with good Company as Brussels. Almost all the Inhabitants speak French; there is a great number of Persons of Quality; the Ladies are handsom, and a Stran­ger may be easily introduc'd into the best com­pany.

Four or five great Streets of the low Town form an Island, and at the same time a kind of [Page 288] Circle, where they usually take the Air in Coaches every Evening, and even in Winter as well as in Summer; for they chuse rather to take their Pleasure in Coaches than to walk a foot, whereas at Paris the Tuilleries are more fre­quented than the Walks for Coaches.

I told you before, that at Rome, and in some other Towns of Italy, the Men never enter into the same Coach with Women; and the same custom is also generally observ'd here when they go to take the Air. But whereas at Rome they are possess'd with an opinion, that Decency will not admit the Women to be seen in com­pany with Men, here they separate out of pure Gallantry. Perhaps you will imagin this to be a Paradox, but you must consider that the Men go on one side and the Women on the other, and that they meet, and talk, and ogle as they please. Thus their division occasions a more general So­ciety, which would be very diverting, if every one were not oblig'd to salute all that pass by, and to repeat his Salutations as often as he meets another Coach.

There is a pleasant Ceremony observ'd by the Citizens on the 19th of January. The Wo­men undress their Husbands and carry 'em to Bed, and on the morrow the Husbands treat their Friends. I cannot give you a positive account of the Original of this Custom, but I had the fortune to be in a company where there were two different Reasons given for it, and both the opposite Parties persisted obstinately in their several Opinions.

[Page 289]Some alledg'd, that on a certain time (which they did not think fit to mention more particu­larly) the City being reduc'd to Extremity after a long Siege, at last surrender'd on Condition, that the Women should be suffer'd to depart unmolested with their little Children, and all that they could carry with 'em besides; and that in­stead of packing up their Toilettes, every one march'd out with her Best-beloved between her Shoulders, and so cheated their Enemies.

Others, who laugh'd at this Story and call'd it a Fable, assur'd us, that a considerable num­ber of the Inhabitants of Brussels follow'd St. Lewis in his first Croisado, and had the good fortune to suffer less than most other Troops which compos'd that numerous Army when it was totally routed: For, continu'd our Infor­mers, the greatest part of 'em either escap'd or were redeem'd, and afterwards they join'd in a Body to return home. Now their Wives hear­ing of their approach, ran to meet 'em, and in a Transport of Joy caught 'em up, and carried 'em home in their Arms. But, if I durst pre­sume to mend the Story, instead of overloading the Women with so unreasonable a Burden, I would content my self with making 'em undress their Husbands the first night after their return, by reason of the good Humour of the former, and the Weariness of the latter.

These Warriours put me in mind of a sort of Monument that is to be seen over the Gate of Flanders, where there are Figures of Men arm'd with Spits. An honest old Man, who made me take notice of 'em, told me, that they were plac'd there for a Memorial of the Valour of [Page 290] his Countrymen, on the following occasion. When the People of Ghent revolted under the Government of the Queen Dowager of Hunga­ry, Charles the Fifth's Sister, and came to sur­prize and plunder this City, the Rabble of the Town sallied out of the above-mention'd Gate, arm'd with Spits and Pitchforks, and bravely repuls'd the Enemy.

The finest Churches in Brussels are those of St. Gudula and of the Jesuits. These Fathers have great Bells, such as are us'd in Parish Churches, contrary to the usual Custom. They made use of the Pretext of certain extraordinary Catechi­zings, to obtain leave to ring a small Bell; but by degrees they left off that troublesom Exer­cise, and in the mean time augmented their * Bell. This piece of boldness stirs up the Jealousie of the other Monks, who were not over-fond of the Jesuits before.

The Chapel of the Holy Sacrament of Miracles is particularly taken notice of at St. Gudula's, be­cause of the Relicks that are kept in it. There is a Tradition, that certain Jews having bought several consecrated Hosts of a Priest, stab'd 'em with a Knife, and that a great deal of Blood flow'd out of the Wounds. The Jews were burnt on the highest Tower of the City-walls, so that the Fire was seen at the distance of Ten miles, and the Hosties were found and plac'd on the Altar of the Chapel, in a Shrine of Gold. This Story is painted on the Wall near the Quire.

The Church of the Capuchins is one of the finest Temples that those Fryars have in any part of the World.

[Page 291]There are several Rarities in the Library of the Jesuits, and among other things the Chair of Leather gilt, in which Charles V. perform'd the Ceremony of his Resignation.

The Chapel of the Family of Tassis, in the Church Des Sablons, deserves to be particularly consider'd.

I'm inform'd, that of Five and thirty thou­sand Acres which the Province of Brabant con­tains, Nine and twenty thousand are possess'd by Ecclesiastical Societies.

There are some few Protestants at Brussels, but they are not allow'd the least degrees of Liber­ty, neither do they own their Religion openly; yet this Country is not under the Power of the Inquisition, for the States would never suffer that Tyrannical Court to be establish'd among 'em.

I design'd to have given you some account of the Academy, the Theater, the public Place, the Town house, with its Pictures and fine-Tower, the Duke de Bournonville's Gardens, the Count of Egmont's Hall, the Carmelites Garden, and the Glass-house; but I am forc'd to con­clude my Letter. You know that Lace and Tapestry make a part of the Trade of this City.

We are just going to take a turn to Antwerp, from whence we design to return hither, and after two or three days to proceed on our Jour­ney homeward, by the way of Ghent, Bruges, Ostend, and Newport, where we expect to find the Yacht. I am,

SIR,
Your &c.

LETTER XXXVI.

SIR,

FROM Brussels we made use of the or­dinary Passage by the Canal, and in five hours came to the Village call'd little Villebroeck, where we embark'd on the Ruppel, and by the help of a favourable Wind and Tide, in less than two hours, arriv'd at Antwerp.

At our departure from Antwerp we hir'd a Coach, which carried us by the way of Mechlin to the little City of Vilvorden, where we took Boat for Brussels, which is but two leagues distant.

MECHLIN. Mechlin is famous for its neatness, in which nevertheless, if I may judge by what appear'd to us, it exceeds not other places. There is a great deal of Lace made here, and the River Dyle, on which the Town is situated, fills the Canals, which open a communication between this and most of the neighbouring Cities. The Women of the Lordship of Mechlin go fre­quently to Brabant to be brought to Bed, that their Children may enjoy the Privileges of the Natives of that Province. I have subjoin'd an Abstract of these so much talk'd of Privileges:

I. The Duke (who at present is the King of Spain) shall not call a Meeting of the Prelates or [Page 293] inferiour Clergy, without the Knowledge, Consent, and particular Approbation of the Two other States, the Nobility and Common People.

II. The Duke shall not prosecute any of his Sub­jects or Inhabitants of the Country, but by the usual methods of Justice, that the accus'd Person may de­fend himself by his Counsel, and plead his own Cause publickly.

III. The Duke shall not be impower'd to impose Taxes, or any other Exactions, on his Subjects, with­out the Consent of the States of the Country.

IV. No honourable Office shall be bestow'd on For­reigners, excepting only some inconsiderable Employ­ments.

V. When the Duke calls a Meeting of the States-General, to require any thing to be granted to him, those of Brabant shall not be oblig'd to go out of their own Province, or to come to any conclusion, but in the same,

VI. If the Duke shall by Force, Fraud, or any other way infringe or violate any of the said Privileges, the People of Brabant, after they have duly and civilly protested against him, shall be held to be absolv'd from their Oath of Fidelity, and may freely do as they shall think fit.

The Province of Brabant, and Lordship of Mechlin, by an ancient Custom, never receive any particular Governor. The great Council Royal, which was instituted by Charles Duke of Burgundy, in the year 1473, and formerly fol­low'd the Court, was fix'd at Mechlin An. 1503. It judges Soveraignly, and without Appeal, the Knights of the Golden Fleece, nor can its Judg­ments [Page 294] be review'd. I could not hear of any Rarities worth observation in this City.

ANTWERP, formerly a Hans Town.The famous City of Antwerp deserves to be more particularly describ'd. 'Tis seated on a smooth and level spot of Ground, on the right Bank of the Scheld; its Figure approaches to a Semicircle, the diameter of which is wash'd by the River, and I'm credibly inform'd that it contains Five thousand six hundred and thirty five Geometrical paces in compass. The Houses are built partly of Wood, and partly of Brick, after an unusual manner, with Battlements on the Pinacles on the tops of 'em, and very high Roofs, according to the common Fashion of the Coun­try, yet they are generally handsom. The Streets, for the most part, are large, streight, and well pav'd.

The Fortifications are indifferent; the Ram­parts are adorn'd almost throughout with dou­ble Alleys border'd with great Trees, which make very pleasant Walks; the Citadel is strong, but somewhat neglected; 'tis a regular Pentagon.

It was built in the year 1567, and I'm told it cost Five hundred thousand Ducats: the Duke of Alva's Statue in Brass was erected in the mid­dle of the Place of Arms; he was represented in compleat Armour, but without a Headpiece, his right Arm was extended toward the City, and his Hand open. Under his Feet was a mon­strous Figure with two Heads and six Arms; it had two Dishes hanging at its Ears, and at its Neck a Wallet or Satchel, out of which [Page 295] issu'd two Serpents. The six Hands held a Torch, a Leaf of Paper, a Purse, a torn Cloak, a Club, and an Ax, and at the Feet of the Mon­ster there was a Visor: On the Face of the Pede­stal that look'd toward the City were these Let­ters:Ferdinando Alvarez a Tole­do, Albae Duci, Phil II. Hisp. Regis apud Bel­gas praefecto, quod extincta seditione, Rebellibus pulsis, Religione procurata, Justitia culta, Provinciis Pa­bem firmaverit. Regis Optimi Ministro fidelissimo positum. F. A. A. T. A. D. P. S. H. R. A. B. P. Q. E. S. R. P. R. P. I. C. P. P. F. R. O. M. F. P. This Statue was not long after broken by the People.

I find a pleasant Story in Chappuys, which I cannot forbear relating to you. When the Spa­niards made the Duke of Arschot Governour of this Citadel, the Duke putting his Hands be­tween the Person's Hands who was to receive his Oath, pronounced these words; I swear by the Name of God, and of the Holy Mary, that I will faithfully keep and preserve this Citadel, &c. After which the following Answer was return'd to him as part of the Ceremony: If you do so, God as­sist you; if not, the Devil take you, Soul and Body: And the whole Assembly answer'd Amen.

The Scheld is large and deep over against Antwerp, and two leagues on each side of it; this was formerly the richest and most frequen­ted Port in Europe. I read not long ago in some Fragments of the Annals of this City, that the Trade of it, in the year 1550, amounted to a hundred and thirty three millions of Gold, without reckoning the Bank. In the same Me­moirsOmnimodae Merces, Artes priscaeque, novaeque. Et quae sunt aliis singula cuncta mihi. Scal. [Page 296] I found the following Story, which may serve for a Specimen of the ancient Riches of Antwerp.

One John Daens, a Merchant, lent a million of Gold to Charles V, (I think) toward the prosecution of the War of Hungary: the Em­peror, at his return from that Expedition, came to Antwerp, and was invited to Dinner by his Creditor; he accepted the Invitation, and was splendidly entertain'd; and the Merchant, af­ter he had burnt a Fire of Cinnamon all the while, at last, to crown the Treat, threw the Emperor's Obligation into the midst of it.

I need not tell you, that there have happen'd great Alterations since that time. The Port of Antwerp is destitute of Ships; the Exchange is desolate and unfrequented, and the City, tho' still beautiful, enjoys a sad Tranquillity, yet there are many rich Families in it.

London and Antwerp were the two principal Cities of the German Hanse or League. That great Society had aTis call'd the Osterlings House. large and fair public House in the last of those Cities, which is still to be seen: the Bourse or Exchange is Ninety Foot long, and Seventy broad, comprehending the wideness of the Portico's that surround it on the inside. It was built in the year 1531, and took its Name from a House that stood former­ly in the same place, on which there was a Scutcheon charg'd with threeBourses in French. Purses, and from that time the public places appointed for the meeting of Merchants have almost every where retain'd the Name of Bourse. The Town house is also a very fine Structure.

[Page 297]The first time I saw the Churches of Antwerp I confess I was surpriz'd with their Magnificence, and especially I admir'd that which belong'd to the Jesuits, where there is nothing to be seen but Marble and rare Pictures; but since that time I have seen a hundred Churches in Italy which surpass those of this City. Nevertheless that Country cannot boast of such a Pyramid as the Steeple of the Cathedral of Antwerp, which is almost as420 foot high. There are Three and thirty Bells in the Tower. high as that of Strasburg, and more finely wrought: 'Tis true, the Italians have Domes and Towers separated from the Body of the Church, but they are perfect Stran­gers to such Steeples as that of this Cathedral.

Thirty paces from the same Church there is a Well, where we observ'd that the Iron bran­ches on which the Pully hangs are adorn'd with Foliages, and were told that they were wrought by a famous Smith call'd Quintin Mathys. This Anvil-beater became enamour'd of a Painter's Daughter, and had the good Fortune to touch her Heart; he was handsom, witty, and ingeni­ous, and besides was Master of a considerable Fortune for a man of his Profession; but the Painter would by no means be perswaded to give his Daughter to a Black-smith. The old man's Obstinacy did not dishearten Quintin; his Love animated him, and taught him to over­come that difficulty: he exchang'd his Hammer for a Pencil, and in a little time equal'd and even surpass'd the best Painters in Antwerp; after which he receiv'd the dear Reward of his La­bours. This generous Lover dy'd Anno 1529, and was buried at the Foot of the Cathedral, [Page 298] near the great Portal; the following Verse is en­grav'd on the Wall over his Tomb.

CONNƲBIALIS AMOR DE MƲLCIBRE FECIT APELLEM;
Love metamorphos'd Vulcan to Apelles.

Plantin's Printing-house remains in some mea­sure to this very day; 'tis now in the possession of Moretus, who is also a very skilful Printer.

The Water of the Scheld being always brackish before Antwerp, and the Fountains of the City not sufficient to serve the Brewhouses, they were forc'd to be at the charge of bringing a new supply of Water by a Canal, which empties its self into a great Cistern, out of which the Water is rais'd by Engines to a large Bason, from whence 'tis distributed by forty Pipes to as many Brewhouses. The Brewers are fix'd to that number by reason of the great scarcity of Water, which they have only at certain hours, and every one knows when to open the Cock of his Pipe.

Some Authors relate, That Charles the Fifth passing thro' Paris, to show his contempt of that City, said he would put it in hisIn French Gan signifies a Glove, and Ghent is al­so call'd Gant. In the year 1427 the Count of Nassaw Baron de Diestein, the Marquess of Bergopzom, and the Baron of Wesemale, caus'd the Circuit of several great Cities to be measur'd for a Wager: and they found (as it appears by an au­thentic Record still extant) that the Circumference of Lovain exceeds that of Ghent, by three Rods or sixty Feet. Voyage to Flanders. Glove, mean­ing, That it might be contain'd in Ghent. The Jests of great Princes are commonly receiv'd as Oracles; and this little Story, whether true or false, has doubtless occasion'd the ridiculous mi­stake of several Authors, who speak of Ghent as [Page 299] of the greatest City in Europe. I know not whether it might not be contain'd in the Suburb of St. Germans; but I'm sure it will appear very inconsiderable if it be compar'd to Paris. 'Tis true, Ghent is a City, but Paris is a little World.

After all, it must be acknowledg'd, that Ghent is a very pleasant place; 'tis a fine City, neat, prettily built, in a good Air, and convenient situation: whereas at Paris the Houses hide the City; here they are not so thick, but that the Town may be easily view'd. The French King took it in six days, notwithstanding the Inunda­tions of its Sluces, Ann. 1678.

It receives great Advantages from the neigh­bourhood of the Scheld and Lys; there is a Bridge over the latter, on which there are two Statues of Brass representing one Man ready to cut off another's Head. The same Figures are to be seen in a large Picture in the Town-house, with this Inscription written below;

Ae Gandt le en Fandt fraepe sae Pere se taete desuu
maeis se heppe rompe si graece de Dieu, 1371.

I know not whether you can understand this Gaulish or rather old Walloon Tongue without the help of an Interpreter. A Gand, says the Inscription, l'Enfant frappe son Pere dessus la teste, mais son épée romp, par la grace de Dieu. To ex­plain the meaning of it, they told us the fol­lowing Story: A Father and his Son being convicted of a certain Crime, receiv'd Sentence of Death, but afterwards a Pardon was offer'd to either of 'em that would be the other's Exe­cutioner. [Page 300] This rigorous Mercy inspir'd both the unhappy Wretches with a desire of dying, and they contended obstinately for that which they esteem'd the more advantageous part of so cruel a Choice; but at last the Father prevail'd, he had a greater Strength of Mind, and the length of his Life had weaken'd the desire of it. After the Son had resolv'd to take away the Life of him to whom he ow'd his own, and had already put himself in a posture to give the fatal blow, the Sword either broke in the Air, or the Blade flew out of the Handle; which Accident being interpreted as a particular Effect of Providence, both the Malefactors were set at liberty.

The ancient Building, call'd the Princes Court, was heretofore the Palace of the Counts of Flanders. We went thither to see the Chamber where Charles the Fifth wasThe Prelates of Ghent presen­ted him with a Bible as soon as he was born, with these words written on it, Study this Book. Act. Her. de Ch. V. born, which is so little a Room, that 'tis impossible there could ever be a Bed in it; and yet there is an ancient Inscription which proves evidently, that this is the place where that Prince came into the World. However, Ghent has no reason to boast of giving birth to so great a Prince,In the Church of the Nuns, call'd Beguines, there is a mira­culous Crucifix, with an open Mouth. It hap­pen'd one day, during the time of the Carnaval, that all the Sisterhood went abroad to take their Pleasure, leaving only one of their Companions at home, who was per­haps as great a lover of the Sport as any of the rest, and unable to bear so great an Affront, went to make her Complaint to the Crucifix, from which she receiv'd the following Answer; Grieve not, my Daughter, to morrow thou shalt rejoice with me at my eternal Wedding. This Prophecy was en­tirely accomplish'd; for the Beguin dy'd the next day, and the Crucifix re­main'd ever afterwards with its Mouth open. for he us'd it so roughly afterwards, that it had been better for that City he had never been born. 'Tis observ'd that his birth happen'd on St. Matthias's day, and that afterwards on the same day he was pro­claim'd Emperor, and took King Francis I. Prisoner.

[Page 301]The Cathedral is a vast Structure, dedicated to St. Bavon. Here I observ'd an Epitaph on a certain Prelate, which (tho' plain and short) is perhaps more expressive than the most studied Elogies.

Ecclesia Antistitem amisit,
Respublica Virum.
The Church has lost a Bishop,
And the Commonwealth a Man.

From Ghent we embark'd on the Canal that leads to Bruges, which, without controversie,BRUGES, formerly a Hans Town. is a very large and fair City. It does not com­prehend so large an extent of Ground as Ghent, In this City a Traveller ought to visit the Town-house, the Water-house, Episcopal Palace, Cathedral, great Market-place, the Colleges of the four Nations of Flanders, the Church of the Jesuits, and several magnifi­cent Tombs in the Collegiate Church of Our Lady. In the Cathedral, at the side of the Quire, they shew the place where Charles the Good, Count of Flan­ders, was assassinated by some Persons, whom he had compell'd to open their Magazines in a time of Famine. Voyage to Flanders. but 'tis much better inhabited, and its Buildings are more uniform. Ships of Five hundred Tun may come up to it by the great Canal, but Hol­land has drawn the Trade from hence as well as from Antwerp.

The Order of the Golden Fleece was instituted at Bruges, byAt first he created only 25 Knights, three years after he added 6 more; Charles V. aug­mented the number to 51; but Philip II, & III. created as many as they pleas'd, without observing any certain number. Philip the Good Duke of Burgun­dy, in the yearSome say 1429. 430. I shall give you a brief account of three or four different Opinions I have observ'd concerning the institution of that Order. Some think it was occasion'd by that Prince'sHe was thrice marry'd, first, with Michelle of France, Fifth Daughter of Charles VI; secondly, with Bonne of Artois, Sister of the Count d'Eu; and thirdly, with Isabel of Portugal. falling in love with a Maid of mean [Page 302] ParentageOthers write, That the Girl was red-haird, and that one day when the Duke went to visit her he found a Lock of her Hair on her Toilette, which he gather'd up very carefully, and preserv'd as a precious Treasure. They add, That his Courtiers having ta­ken the liberty to break some Jests on this occasion, the fond Prince took a Resolution to in­stitute an Order of Knighthood by the Title of the Golden Fleece, in honour to the Lock of red Hair. Davity says, That se­veral Authors are of Opinion, that this Order took its origi­nal from the Religious Society call'd the Thebean Order., whose Gown was furr'd with Lamb-skin. Others relate, that esteeming the extraordinary Plen­ty and Abundance of the year of his Marriage with Elizabeth or Isabel of Portugal to be a presage of Future Happiness; and ob­serving that the initial Letters of the five Months of Harvest, July, August, September, October, and November, make the word JA­SON, he instituted this Order with allusion to the celebrated Fleece of Colchis. There are others, who pretend that it was instituted upon occasion of a cer­tain extraordinary Adventure that happen'd to that Prince; which had some relation to the Story of Gideon's Fleece. Judges 6. 37, &c. And in the last place, some are of Opinion, that the great Encrease of his Revenue, by the importation of the En­glish Wooll, gave occasion to the institution of this Order.

I observ'd at Brussels, either in St. Gudula's Church or the Town-house, an ancient piece of Tapestry adorn'd with the Arms of Burgundy, St. Andrew's Cross. and with a representation of the Story of Gi­deon's Fleece, which probably may have some relation to the Badge of this Order. I remem­ber also thatOliver de la Marche had the honour to serve Philip the Good, and during the space of Fifty years, had several considerable Employments in the House of Burgundy. la Marche relates, in his Memoirs, That at the magnificent Entertainment call'd The Feast of Vows, which Philip the Good Febr. 17. 1453. made [Page 303] in the City of Lisle, among several other Di­vertisements, Sports and Comedies, with which the Solemnity was accompanied, the whole History of Jason, and the Conquest of the Gol­den Fleece, was represented. And the same Au­thor makes frequent mention of the Mystery of the Fleece of Burgundy, both which Observati­ons laid together, seem to confirm the second Opinion; and after all, who knows whether Duke Philip had not all the four above-mention'd Considerations in his view when he instituted this Order?

You know that the King of Spain, as Duke of Burgundy, is Soveraign of the Order of the Golden Fleece.

Departing from Bruges, we embark'd again on the Canal, and in three hours arriv'd at the little City of Ostend. OSTEND The Fortifications are prettily contriv'd, but the great Sluces by which it receives Water from the Sea, and communi­cates the same to Bruges, is the most remarkable thing about it.

'Tis almost impossible to speak of Ostend with­out calling to mind the most famousThe Siege was begun by Arch­duke Albert, July 5. 1601, and Ambrose Spinola enter'd the place Sept. 20. 1604. Siege that the World perhaps ever saw. This little Fisher-town, meanly fortified, sustain'd the shock of a potent Enemy for almost three years and three months, during which time it receiv'd above Three hundred thousand Cannon-shot, oftentimes under the covert of heaps of dead Bodies, with which the besieg'd repair'd the Breaches, lost aboveSeventy thou­sand One hun­dred and twen­ty four. Seventy thousand Men, and kill'd aSeventy two thousand and Nine hundred. greater number of its Enemies; and after all, this little mass of Ruins, overpower'd [Page 304] by the numbers of the Besiegers, and unable to hold out longer against so unequal a Force, ex­torted Articles of Capitulation from its Enemies.

There is a Canal between Ostend and Newport, but for the conveniency of a quicker passage, we chose rather to hire a Coach.

NEWPORT.I have nothing to add concerning the little City of Newport, but that it puts an end to our Peregrination, on this side of your British Seas.

By the good Providence of God, our little Voyage has been in all respects happy, and the Pleasure that attended it was never inter­rupted by Sickness or any Accident. And in particular I must own my self extreamly oblig'd to our common Friend M. S. Waring, whose good Company we enjoy'd all the way. He is Master of many excellent Qualifications, which charm all those that converse with him.

To conclude, whatever Satisfaction may be found in Travelling, I can assure you, that 'tis always a very sensible Pleasure to return home. I am,

SIR,
Your &c.
The End of the Second Volume.

INSTRUCTIONS TO A Traveller.

IT must be acknowledg'd,See Letter XXXIII. that Travelling is attended with Pleasure and Profit, but 'tis no less certain that these Advantages can­not be obtain'd without Pain. The de­sign of these Memoirs is, to instruct those who shall afterwards undertake the Voyage describ'd in the preceding Letters, to improve the two first, and lessen the other. I do not intend to discourse of Travels in general, but only to run over the several Steps that we made in our Voyage, and to give those who shall follow the same Road, or any part of it, such Instructions as I know to be most useful for 'em.

The Rate of Places in the Stage-Coaches and Boats in Holland is fix'd, so that there is no oc­casion for contending about the Price, and there­fore it would be needless to give a particular ac­count of the Rates, which are various, accord­ing to the difference of Places and Distances.

The Carriage of Baggage must be paid apart when a Passenger has more than a single Port­mantle. [Page 306] 'Tis in vain to contend with the Dutch Boat-men, and you must either agree on a price for the carriage of your Goods before you put 'em in the Boat, or resolve to give 'em whatever they please to ask.

In some places, as at Roterdam, Delft, and the Hague, the Boats go off every half-hour; in other parts they observe different times of set­ting out, but none of 'em ever stay a moment after the Clock strikes the appointed time of their departure. Those whose Affairs require greater haste, may gain a day by travelling in the night; and they who embark in the Even­ing at the Hague, arrive next Morning at Am­sterdam.

At the usual places of changing the Boats, you always find Men with Wheelbarrows to carry your Baggage; their Rates are so small that they deserve not to be mention'd.

Our first design being to visit Germany in our return, and afterwards to repass thro' Holland, we resolv'd at the same time to see North Holland, but we came another way, and had not time to put that design in execution. While one is at Amsterdam, he ought by no means to neg­lect that little Voyage, 'tis but a Walk of four days, and the Habits, extraordinary neatness, and other Customs of the Inhabitants of that Province, are very singular.

In Germany you seldom meet with the conve­niency of regulated Passages; we hir'd a Coach entirely for our selves from Ʋtrecht to Arnheim forAbout 1 l. 5 s. and 4 d. twelve Francs and sixteen Sous. I will not undertake to reduce the Money to our way of reckoning, the Traveller will find what the value [Page 307] of it is, when he comes to the places where 'tis current.

Those who travel alone may take notice, that the Places in the same Coach are of diffe­rent prices; but, as I intimated before, all the Rates are fix'd.

It cost us nothing for the carriage of our Trunks, because we were Masters of the whole Coach, but otherwise we must have paid for 'em by weight.

We hir'd another Coach from Arnheim to Wesel forEighteen Shillings. nine Francs; the Rates vary accord­ing to the Season of the year.

From Wesel to Cologn we paidNine Shillings. four Francs and a half each; for thirty Livres we might have had a Coach, which would have carried us streight from Arnheim to Cologn, but we were desirous to see Wesel.

At Colen there are all sorts of Passages to go from thence to Mentz (for I speak only of our Road) but all the Land-Carriages are extreamly dear; for since they have no constant times of setting out, the Passenger must also pay for the Return, and besides, the Ways are hilly and un­easie: So that having no urgent Affairs to ha­sten us, we resolv'd, for several Reasons, to go by Water. In the great Boats, which are drawn by Horses, the common Rate is a crown a piece, a little over or under; and if the Pas­sengers please, they may land at any Village by the way to dine or sup. But not to retard the passage, which seems tedious enough other­wise to those who are not furnish'd with a good stock of Patience, the best way is, to order the provisions for dinner to be brought in the morn­ing.

[Page 308]From Mentz 'tis but one easie day's passage on the Mein to Frankfort, by the ordinary Boat, which is large and commodious, and sets out every day. The Rates of the places are fix'd, and the Traveller needs not desire a more con­venient passage.

We meet so often with different sorts of Mo­ney in Germany, that 'tis impossible to avoid lo­sing by 'em. The best way is to make suffi­cient provision in Holland, of Gold Ducats, and Silver Money of the Emperor's Coin, which are current every where, without any abatement, but something must be allow'd for the exchange of those pieces. At Amsterdam, for example, you must give two or three pence more than the real value of a Ducat, and proportionably as much for the Pistoles. But the Exchange of Money rises or falls, according to the various Junctures of Trade and of the Times.

When Travellers meet together they may exchange the Money they have about 'em; but we must not depend on such accidental Ren­counters, which happen seldom.

The Spanish Pistols of full weight are the best Pieces that can be carried to Italy.

The Bankers of Amsterdam directed us to the Neuville's their Correspondents at Frankfort, who are very honest persons, and us'd us very kindly.

Travellers ought always to procure Letters of Recommendations for some Persons of note in those Towns where they intend to stay any considerable time, not only from their own Country, but also from the places where they stop on the Road; for, if any Accident should [Page 309] happen, they will be glad to know where they may find Assistance; and besides, the Persons to whom they are recommended may be of use to shew 'em the Rarities of the Country, to introduce 'em into Acquaintance, and to give 'em necessary Instructions. The Recommen­dations of Bankers are none of the least effe­ctual.

Neither must a Traveller forget to take a Pass-port from the Prince or State whose Subject he is: 'Tis true, these Pass-ports are not neces­sary, but they may be useful, and we were ask'd for ours in some parts of Italy; besides, such a Pass, on some occasions, procures Respect to a Stranger, and an Accident may happen which may make a man repent his neglect of this piece of Caution.

'Tis better to undergo the Loss that is a ne­cessary consequence of Bills of Exchange, than to be troubl'd with carrying about a Load of Money. And besides, one ought not to take more Money along with him, than will be just sufficient to defray his Charge from one place to another; for there are a hundred Accidents which may make it very inconvenient for a Stranger to have his Pockets full of superfluous Cash.

'Tis a general Rule,—Cantabit vacuus coram latrone viator. That a Traveller ought never to make a discovery of his Jewels or Money, especially in the Inns; for almost all the Robberies and Murders that are committed on Passengers are occasion'd by their Imprudence in betraying themselves.

At Francfort we bought some Boxes of Treacle from Dr. Peters, and besides, we had furnish'd [Page 310] our selves with some such Provisions at London. Health is so necessary a Companion to a Tra­veller, that he cannot be too careful of its pre­servation.

If we had resolv'd to go streight from Frank­fort to Heidelberg, we might have been accommo­dated, as we were inform'd by our Friends, with the choice of two or three sorts of pas­sage; but since we travell'd only to see the Country, we hir'd a Coach with six Horses, to carry us and our Baggage whithersoever we pleas'd, for three Crowns a day, paying the same rate for the return: So that if we had gone directly from Francfort, the charge of our Coach would have amounted to six Crowns a day; but after we had spent four days in tra­versing the Country, we left the Coach at Hey­delberg, reckoning only two days for its return to Francfort.

We were forc'd to make another bargain from Heydelberg to Nuremberg, which, in that Season of the year, is six days Journey: We gave, as I remember, thirty Crowns for the car­riage of our Persons and Goods, and twenty Crowns for a whole Coach from Nuremberg to Augspurg, on condition that we should take In­golstat and Newburg in our way. They who go by Dunavert make a whole day's Journey less; but we were resolv'd to see Ingolstat, which is the strongest place in Bavaria.

There are Stage Coaches that go from Aug­spurg to Venice, or at least to Mestré near Venice, and the Rates of the Places are regulated, but they do not pass by Munick, which we were desirous to see for several Reasons; and besides, [Page 311] the Country is extreamly rough for Coaches, they are very apt to overturn, and the Passen­gers are often constrain'd to alight, by reason of the continual ascending and descending among the Mountains.

And therefore we agreed to be carried on Horseback, and our Charges born from Augspurg to Venice, by the way of Munick, Inspruck, Bol­sana, Trent, Verona, Vincenza, and Padua, at the rate of twenty Ducats of Gold a head. We made this Bargain by the Advice of an interess'd person, but we were inform'd afterwards that we paid too dear by a fifth or sixth part. I thought fit to acquaint the Reader with this passage, not that he may imitate our Exam­ple, but that he may draw some Advantage even from our Blunders.

We were desirous to arrive at Venice before the Carnaval, which was not necessary, for 'tis sufficient to see the three last weeks of it, espe­cially for those who intend not to spend more time in travelling than we determin'd to do.

I advise those who may happen to be at Aug­spurg at the same season when we were there, and design also to be at Venice during the Car­naval, to make a particular Bargain for Munick; and from thence to go to Ratisbon, where they may embark on the Danube for Vienna, and re­turn to Venice by Saltzburg and Palma nuova; and even they may make a little excursion from Vienna to Presburg, that they may be able to say they have seen some part of Hungary, and after all, come in time enough to Venice. They may afterwards take occasion to see Padua, Verona, and Vincenza.

[Page 312]Those who are of a tender Constitution will do well to provide good Furs at Munick, before they engage in the Alps, if they are to pass 'em in the Winter; for besides, that they will be in a manner overwhelm'd with Snow; the Cold is very piercing among those Mountains.

When one is at Inspruck, he ought by all means to visit the Cabinet of Curiosities and other Rarities in the Castle of Amras, for which little Journey he may hire a Coach of the Inn-keepers. And that he may have time to satisfie his Curiosity, he ought so to contrive his Jour­ney, that he may have half a day to spend in this place.

At Stertzlinghen, between Inspruck and Trent, 'tis convenient to leave the direct Road which leads to Trent, by the Castle of Tirol, and to take that of Brixen. 'Tis true, the first way is shorter, but 'tis dangerous by reason of its Pre­cipices: and for this Reason the Guide ought to have timely warning to take the Road of Brixen.

There are some good Inns at Venice, such as the Louvre, the White Lyon, and the French Arms; but when one intends to spend some months in that City, the best way is, to hire a furnish'd House. There are always some Apartments to be let in the Procuraties, which, as it is the dea­rest, is also the finest part of the Town. At the Louvre you are entertain'd for eight Livres a day, and the White Lyon and French Arms are some­what cheaper, but you must always remember to make your Bargain for every thing before you go into the House, to avoid after-Debates.

[Page 313]For seven or eight Livres a day, you may hire one of the prettiest Gondola's with two Rowers, whom you may put into Livery, and employ in what service you please. The ordi­nary Gondola's cost fifteen pence an hour. Twenty pence make a Livre, and a Spanish Pistol contains nine and twenty Livres.

I have already spoken of the Ridotti at Venice, which are Gaming-houses or Academies of Bas­set, where the Noblemen cut, and Fools lose their Money.

Here we receiv'd the first Letters we had from England. A Traveller ought always to acquaint his Correspondents where he intends to stay for some time, that they may send their Letters thither, which for the greater Security may be directed to some Banker. 'Tis true, a Man may make a shift to live without News, but Bills of Exchange are absolutely necessary in a strange Country, and great care must be taken to prevent their miscarrying; the surest way is, to get a Letter of Credit, which is cur­rent every where.

Travellers are not stop'd on the account of Customs or Imports, either in Holland or Germa­ny, and rarely in the State of Venice. The Toll-gatherers saw us enter into the Laguna's without speaking one word to us, tho' we had a consi­derable quantity of Baggage, but in other parts of Italy the Tolls are very frequent and trouble­som. Nevertheless you may usually buy your peace at the rate of a fewA Piece of Money about the value of 6 d. Julio's; and we ne­ver met with any of those Officers so obstinate as to open our Portmantles, save only at our arrival at Rome, at Pisa, as we came from Leghorn, [Page 314] and at our departure from Naples and Ber­gamo.

It froze, without intermission all the while we staid at Venice; and, generally speaking, we found the Winter very sharp all over Italy. Most People are perswaded that there is hardly any Winter at all in this Country, and therefore they usually chuse that Season to travel thither: But I can produce several Reasons against the Winter, and I know no more than one against the Summer.

In Winter the Ways are uneasie and dange­rous, especially in the Mountains, by reason of the Snow and Ice. The Days are short; a Traveller comes late to his Lodging, and is of­ten forc'd to prevent the Sun in the Morning; besides, the Country looks dismally, Nature is in a manner half dead, and neither Fruits nor Flowers are any where to be seen.

The Summer corrects all those Inconvenien­cies; 'tis hot, I confess, but that trouble may be easily avoided, by reposing during the heat of the Day: and besides, the coldness of the Winter does sufficiently counterballance the heat of the Summer.

At Venice we hir'd a Boat to Padua for Four and twenty Livres; but we might have taken places in the common Boat for two Livres a-piece.

At Padua we found by chance a Coach which had brought some Passengers from Loretto, and stay'd for Company to return thither. We hir'd the whole Coach for Fourteen Spanish Pistols, on condition that we should also have the use of a Saddle-horse, that we might stay [Page 315] three days at such places on the Road as we should think fit to chuse, that the Master of the Coach should pay for our passage over Bridges and Rivers, &c. and carry us by the way of Ra­venna.

The Charge of the passage over Rivers, &c. is not very considerable, but we found it very convenient to ease our selves of the trouble of it.

'Tis always worth the while to make enquiry whether there are any Coaches, or what other sort of passage the Traveller intends to make use of, returning to the place whither he designs to go, for by so doing he may save Money considerably.

Some embark for Ancona at Rimini, and even at Venice, coasting along the Shore of the Gulf. But when the passage by Land is easie, a curious and judicious Traveller will never chuse to go by Sea.

In many parts of Italy you may have Stage-Horses or Calashes, the Rates of which are fix'd. The greatest conveniency of this way of travel­ling is, that you may stop where you please, and change your Horses or Calash at every Stage, without being oblig'd to pay for their return; and besides, you may take what time you please to satisfie your Curiosity.

There is conveniency for two Persons in a Calash, which I prefer before Horses for seve­ral Reasons; in Summer you have the advan­tage of the Shade; they are warmer in Win­ter, and more commodious in all respects; be­sides, the Passengers may have their Portman­tles ty'd behind, tho' they should amount to 200 [Page 316] weight for each Calash; but 'tis convenient to look to 'em from time to time, or to make a Servant follow the Calash on Horseback, to take care of the Baggage.

The tying and untying of the Portmantles at every Stage is a necessary piece of trouble that attends this way of travelling; and therefore the best way for those who have a long Journey to make, and intend not to stop on the Road, or only to make a short stay, is, to agree with one Person for the whole Passage; and they may easily calculate whether the Charge will amount to more than if they should change their Horses or Calashes at every Stage.

Ferrara was the first place where they took our Pistols from us; they restor'd 'em at the Gate by which we went out, but we were forc'd to give 'em a little Money.

When you come over against Catholica, be­tween Rimini and Pesaro, it will not be improper to leave the direct way to see the little Town and Republic of St. Marin, which is ten or twelve miles further, on the right hand; for which Reason, instead of agreeing with one man for the whole Passage between Padua and Loret­to, you may make your Bargain to be carried only to Rimini, where you may take Horses for St. Marin, and return the same way back to Ri­mini, to continue your Journey. But if you are not sure to find a new passage at Rimini for Lo­retto, you may oblige the Person with whom you agree for your passage to carry you by the way of St. Marin.

At Loretto, being eight Persons in company, we gave twelve Italian Pistols for three Calashes [Page 317] and two Horses, on condition that we should arrive at Rome on the sixth day. The Hurry of Loretto will not give a Traveller time to take exact measures for the rest of his Journey, and therefore he must depend almost wholly on his Guide, for the choice of the Way.

You ought not to forget, when you are at Terni, to visit the Cascade or Waterfal del Mar­more, which is but three miles distant from the Town, tho' those who let Horses thither will tell you 'tis five miles, that they may cheat you of a little Money. You must not give above two Julio's and a half, or three at most, for each Horse, and you may satisfie the Man who brought you from Loretto for the half-day you make him wait at Terni, if you did not agree to the contrary at Loretto.

But, to avoid all this trouble, you may com­prehend that little Journey in the Bargain you make at Loretto; and, I advise you also to oblige your Guide to carry you to Mount-Aeolus, near the little Town of Cesis, eight miles from Terni. Here you may have the pleasure of viewing a very singular Rarity; for the Holes and Crevi­ces in this Mountain send forth perpetually, but especially in Summer, certain cool Briezes, which the Inhabitants of Cesis bring in Pipes to their Cellars and Houses, to cool their Wines and themselves also during the great HeatsSee Kircher's Mundus Subter­raneus.; and besides, they have this Advantage, that they may open the Pipes more or less, and let out what quantity of Coolness they please.

As you draw near to Narni, you may turn aside to the right hand, to see the old Bridge [Page 318] mention'd in one of my Letters, it will not cost you above half an hour to satisfie your Curiosity.

At our first arrival at Rome we lodg'd in an Inn, but after our return from Naples we took a Palazzo, which in English is no more than a furnish'd House, where we were very honourably accommodated forAbout 6 l. Sterling. twenty Piasters by the month,

When a Stranger arrives at Rome, he is im­mediately pester'd with a multitude of Lackeys who come to offer their Service to him, but they are generally a company of treacherous Rogues, who are by no means to be trusted.

There are two things which a Traveller ought principally to observe, with respect to Servants, when he resolves to encrease his Train. In the first place, he ought to take such as are of the Country, and even of the place where he resides at present, for they are acquainted with the Inhabitants and their Customs, speak the Language, and are under an Obligation to per­form their Duty better than if they were Stran­gers. Secondly, he ought to receive 'em on the Recommendation of a Friend who knows 'em particularly, and can assure him of their Fideli­ty; and besides, he may carry some spare Coats along with him, that he may put his whole Re­tinue in the same Livery.

The usual Wages for Footmen or Staffieri, as they are call'd at Rome, is two and a half or three Julio's by the day; and Servants for the Kitchin may be hir'd at the same rate.

We gave fourteen Pistols by the month for a handsom Coach with two good Horses, tho' in another Season we might have had one for [Page 319] twelve, and even sometimes for ten; but the greatest concourse of Strangers at Rome is in the time of Lent, and at Easter, which enhances the price of many Conveniencies.

They who are at Rome in Lent may easily obtain a permission to eat Flesh; and even the Inn-keepers on the Roads will accommodate you with it, but you must not ask it too openly, lest you expose 'em to Censure. I have seen some Passengers quickly satisfie the Scruples of their Landlords, by threatening to go to another Lodging. But generally the lean days deserve that name with a witness almost every where in Italy, and 'tis hardly possible for a Stranger to accustom himself to those Severities.

A Traveller who intends not to stay above two or three months at Rome should immediate­ly after his arrival agree with a skilful Antiqua­ry, and fix certain times to visit with him the principal Rarities of that famous City; for tho' several Authors have attempted to describe 'em, a curious and inquisitive Person, who examines things upon the spot, and with his own Eyes, will always be able to make some new Observa­tions: and therefore, without consulting Books, unless as Helps and Guides, he ought to take a particular view of every thing that is remarka­ble, and set down all that he sees in his Journal; for it happens not unfrequently, that a Travel­ler finds a very considerable difference between his own Observations and the Descriptions of others, when he compares 'em together. And to make his Industry the more successful, he ought always to carry a Note book about him, and every Evening to examin and transcribe the [Page 320] Observations of the Day; nor will it be impro­per to use this method every where else, as well as at Rome.

To ease my Memory, and that I might be able on all occasions to gratifie my Curiosity by an exact enquiry into what was most remarka­ble in every City and Country thro' which we pass'd, I drew up the following Catalogue, which always furnish'd me with a sufficient number of useful Questions.

  • Climate.
  • Government.
  • Forces.
  • Arsenals.
  • Garrisons.
  • Fortifications.
  • Castles.
  • Citadels.
  • Largeness of Towns.
  • Religion.
  • Language.
  • Coins.
  • Trade.
  • Manufactures.
  • Riches.
  • Academies.
  • Ʋniversities.
  • Bishoprics.
  • Antiquities.
  • Monuments.
  • Libraries.
  • Cabinets of Rarities.
  • Learned Men.
  • Skilful Artificers.
  • Painting.
  • Sculptures.
  • Architecture.
  • Palaces.
  • Houses of Pleasure.
  • Confines.
  • Prospects.
  • Passes.
  • Entries.
  • Bridges:
  • Rivers.
  • Woods.
  • Hills.
  • Towns and Villages.
  • Customs.
  • Fashions of Clothes.
  • Privileges.
  • Adventures.
  • Late Accidents.
  • Natural or artificial Rari­ties.
  • Soil.
  • Plants.
  • Fruits.
  • Animals, &c.

[Page 321]D. Pietro Rosini was our Antiquary at Rome; he is well acquainted with Medals, and trades in 'em. I think we gave him three Pistols a month.

'Tis convenient for a Traveller to view the Curiosities of Rome in the company of other Strangers; for so his Pleasure is encreas'd by the converse of his Companions, and many Eyes see better than one.

No man ought to undertake a Voyage with­out making Provision of several sorts of Mea­sures, Geographical Charts, a Watch, Prospe­ctive-Glasses, a Mariner's Compass, and Qua­drant. And as far as he is able he ought to take the dimensions of every thing; in order to which he may easily carry along with him a Cane divided into several Measures. And be­sides, I took care to furnish my self with a piece of Packthread well twin'd and wax'd, fifty fathom long, and divided into feet by Knots, by the help of which I could in a mo­ment measure long Distances, the heighth of Towers, bigness of Pillars, and what else I thought fit to observe.

A Roman Palm, or Span and a half, make just thirteen Inches English measure; the Roman Foot is shorter by six lines than that of England. Eight Roman Feet make a Roman Canne; and aBrass or Fa­thom of Milan makes 22 inches and a half, En­glish measure. Brasse or Fathom of Florence is equal to two Roman Feet.

A Traveller finds so much Pleasure in con­sulting the Maps of the Countries thro' which he passes, that he can hardly forbear wishing he had compleat Setts of all that are extant; there are three things which ought to be observ'd on [Page 322] this occasion by those who design to travel; first, they ought not to content themselves with resolving to buy Maps in the Countries whither they intend to go, but make sufficient provision of 'em before their departure, and even take some of all Authors, for we enquir'd for 'em in vain in several great Cities; and it happens not unfrequently that the least esteem'd are upon tryal found to be the most exact. Secondly, their Maps ought to be pasted on Linnen or Canvas, and roll'd up on Sticks. And in the last place, every judicious and curious Traveller ought to note down all the Errors he perceives in 'em, and communicate his Observations to those who make 'em; for, if every ingenious Person would endeavour to promote so useful a Design, in a little time we should have no rea­son to complain of the Uncorrectness of Maps.

The Prospective-Glasses ought to be of se­veral sorts, and adapted both to great and small Distances; they are useful for those who are de­sirous to take a distinct view of Inscriptions, Pi­ctures, Statues, Ornaments of Architecture, &c.

To return to Rome; the Curious may fur­nish themselves with Prints of all its Antiquities, and other remarkable things that are to be seen in and about the City, of almost all which they may have compleat Setts for a hundred Pistols.

Not only in that City, but every where else, 'tis convenient for a Traveller to make a Col­lection of such Prints, which will be of use to refresh and rectifie his Ideas of the places he has seen; and they who are most curious may car­ry a skilful Designer along with 'em.

[Page 323]I thought to have subjoin'd a Catalogue of about Three hundred of the finest Pictures we saw at Rome, but I'm inform'd there is an entire Collection of all those Pieces already communi­cated to the Public.

The Roman Calashes are very pretty, and fit for taking the Air in a level Country, but not at all convenient for travelling; in the mean time, since several persons are very fond of 'em, I advise those who design to make use of 'em for a Journey, to take care that they be bound more securely with Iron than usually they are; to chuse such as are cover'd with Wax'd Cloth ra­ther than with Leather, which grows hard, cracks, and is too heavy; and to place the Body of the Calash immediately upon the Shafts, in­stead of hanging it, for so it will be less apt to overturn.

But the best way is, not to meddle with these Calashes, which occasion so much trouble to those who use 'em; for they must buy Horses, and hire new Servants, both which are subject to a thousand Accidents, and so many different Cares spoil the pleasure of Travelling. And even sometimes the Grooms prick the Horses Feet in shoeing 'em, when Gentlemen travel on their own Horses, to oblige 'em either to buy others, or stay till their own are recover'd.

After all, Money makes every thing easie, and there is no difficulty so great that may not be easily surmounted by those whose Pockets are well lin'd with Gold.

They who happen to be at Rome at the time of the arrival of the Quails, will do well to leave the City for two or three days, and take a [Page 324] Journey towards Ostia or Prattica on the Sea-coast.

The Journey from Rome to Naples is usually perform'd thus: The Travellers hire either Horses or Calashes, or both together, that they may have the advantage of easing themselves by change. And the Person with whom they agree at Rome, every Passenger paying Fifteen Piasters, obliges himself to give 'em eight Meals in their Journey outwards, and as many in their return, to stay five whole days at Naples, to pay the Boat at Cajeta, to lend his Horses one day to Vesuvius, and another to Puzzolo, both which are comprehended in the five to be spent at Naples. Thus the whole Journey is perform'd in fifteen days, on the last of which they return to Rome.

This way of Travelling is not altogether in­convenient for those who are oblig'd to make haste, but they who are Masters of their own time ought to take other measures; for a cu­rious Person may find Employment enough at Naples for twelve or fifteen days at least, and 'tis almost impossible in the narrow space of one day to take a view of all the Antiquities and other Rarities that are to be seen about Puz­zolo,

And therefore they who have leisure to satisfie their Curiosity, may make use of the Procaccio or ordinary Post from Rome to Naples, where they may stay as long as they please, and return by the same way. I could not hear of any Stage-Passages, or such as may be chang'd from time to time, in this part of the Country.

They who chuse the first method of perform­ing this Journey are forc'd to return by the same [Page 325] way they came, which cannot but be extream­ly unpleasant to an inquisitive Traveller; but when one is at Naples, without any Obligation to make use of a particular kind of Passage, he may in his return leave the direct Road, and travel further within the Land on the right side of it, hiring Horses from Town to Town. I know some Persons who took this way, but 'tis not frequented, and therefore I only give this Advice to those who are willing to purchase the Satisfaction of their Curiosity, and the Plea­sure of Novelty, at the expence of a little Trouble.

At Naples we lodg'd at the Golden Dove, where we pay'd ten Carlins each. The Dove and Three Kings are the only good Inns in this City. Our Coach cost us no more than twelve Carlins a day. At Rome you pay but seven Julio's in the best Inns, and if you make a Bargain for a con­siderable time, they will content themselves with six.

They trade much here in Silk Stockins, Vests, and other Worsted Clothes, which are not comparable to those that are made at London. The Merchants of this place over-rate their Commodities extreamly.

I never heard that there was any Catalogue made of the chief Pictures that are to be seen at Naples; and therefore, besides those mention'd in my Letters, I shall name some others for the conveniency of young Painters, who travel in­to Italy. I speak only of such as are in Chur­ches, Convents, or other places, where a Tra­veller may be easily admitted to take a view of 'em.

[Page 326]The Virgin, by Raphael; in the Chapel of the Family of Dolce, at the Church of St. Dominic major.

The Annunciation, by Michael Angelo; at St. Mary's of Health.

Another Annunciation, by Titian; in the Duke of Acerenza's Chapel at St. Dominic major.

Queen Joan I, by Giotto; at the Incoronata.

The Refectory of Mount Olivet, by George Va­sari.

The Nativity, and St. Agnes, by Pomarancio; at St. Philip de Neri's.

St. Thomas, at the Cathedral; and St. Michael, on the great Altar of S. Angelica nido, by Mark of Siena.

Several Pieces, by Hannibal Carache; at St. Ann's of the Lombards.

St. Peter, by Caravagio; at St. Mary's of the Graces.

The Four Angels, in the Chapel of Treasure, at the Cathedral; and several Pieces at St. Ann's of the Lombards, by Dominichini.

St. Francis, at St. Philip de Neri's; an Annun­ciation, and the Cardinal Vertues, at the Church of the Holy Apostles; by Guido.

Several Pieces at St. Ann's of the Lombards, and the Roof of the Holy Apostles; by Cavaliero Lanfranco.

St. Alexis, at St. Philip de Neri's; by Pietro da Cortona.

The Trinity, at the Church of the Trinity; St. Bennet and other Pieces, at St. Severin's of the Benedictins; another St. Bennet, and St. Thomas Aquinas at Mount-Olivet, and several Pictures at St. Ann's of the Lombards; by S. Fede.

[Page 327]The Vertues and Sciences, at St. Thomas Aqui­nas's, in the Cloyster; by N. Vaccaro.

The Pictures in fresco, at St. Severin's; by Zingaro.

The Magi, at Mount-Olivet; by Cottignuola:

The Assumption of the Virgin, at the Cathedral; by Andrew of Salerno.

The Roof of St. Paul's; by Cavalier Massi­mo.

St. John, in the middle of the fretting at the Church of St. John Carbonara; by Rosso.

St. Michael, at St. Dominic major; and the Ascension at St. Ligerio's; by Beru Lama.

St. John, and St. Luke, at St. Clara's; by Syl­vestro Buono.

Christ's Marriage with St. Katherine of Sienna, at S. Pietro à Majella; by Criscuolo.

A Picture of St. Lewis, at St. Lawrence's of the minor Fryars of St. Francis; by Simon Cremonese.

St. Jerom, at St. Philip de Neri's; by Gessi.

The Mosaic Work, at the Holy Apostles; by J. Bapt. Calandra.

The Adoration of the Magi, at St. Philip de Neri's; and several Pictures in fresco, at St. Severin's of the Benedictins; by Bellissario.

The inside of the Dome of the Church of the Holy Apostles; by Cavalier Benacschi.

Several Pieces in the Viceroy's Palace, and at St. Philip de Neri's; by Jourdain a famous Pain­ter, now living.

They who love Architecture and Sculpture may observe

The great Altar at the Annunciata; the Taber­nacle and Altar at St. Mary's of the Graces.

[Page 328]The magnificent Tombs of Andrew Bonifacia, and J. Battista Cicaro, at St. Severin's of the Bene­dictins; the finest Organs in Naples are in this Church.

The great Altar and Tabernacle at the Bare­foot Carmelites.

The Tomb of Ladislaus (tho' Gothic), the Chapel of the Marquesses of Vico, the Statues of St. James and St. George the Martyr, and the Crucifix in the Chapel of the Seripando's at St. John à Carbonara.

The Altars of St. Ignatius and St. Francis Xavier, at St. Mary's of Constantinople.

The Statue of St. Sebastian, at S. Pietro à Ma­jella; by John de Nola.

The Cardinal Filamarino's Chapel, that of the Annunciation, and the Tabernacle, at the Church of the Holy Apostles.

The Baptismal Fonts, the Gate, and the Cha­pel of the Treasure, at the Cathedral.

The great Altar, and the Chapel of J. Camill. Cacace, at St. Lawrence's:

The great Altar, and the Altar of St. Teresa's Chapel, at St: Mary's the Mother of God.

The great Chapel of St. Mary's of the Car­melites.

The magnificent Chapel of St. James, at S. Maria nuova.

The Tomb of Don Pedro de Toledo, at St. James's of the Spaniards.

The Chapel of the Princes, of St. Agatha, and a Statue of the Virgin at St. Paul's.

All these Pieces are extreamly beautiful and magnificent; and a Traveller ought also to visit the Treasuries and Vestries.

[Page 329]They who stay some time at Naples may al­so take a Journey to Salerno.

And since they will have occasion to make several Experiments at Grotta di Cane, they ought to take exact notice of the space of time in which the Animal dies; for the Origin of the Nerves being seis'd and stuff'd by the Vapor, there may happen a sort of Apoplexy, which may last longer than the spectators commonly imagin, and produce only a seeming Death.

The common Opinion is, that the Water of the neighbouring Lake is endow'd with a pecu­liar Vertue to reanimate the Dog, and one might easily cause some other Water to be brought, to try whether it would not produce the same ef­fect. And besides, the Dog, or other Animal, might be laid on the Ground without the Grotto, to see whether he would not recover without the help of Water. To try all these Experiments, several Dogs must be brought thither from Naples.

Pliny cites an Author, who relates, That those Animals whose Genitals are cut off, receive no Injury by being put into the Grotto. This might be easily examin'd, and many other Experiments made by those who are upon the spot.

Going from Rome to Naples you are troubl'd with no Toll-gatherers, but in your return you are perpetually plagu'd with 'em, during the first half-day's Journey; for they imagin that all Tra­vellers are laded with Silk-stockins, or some other Commodities of Naples. 'Tis true, they search'd none of our Company, but in two or three se­veral places they open'd some of our Portmantles. The best way to make this Journey pleasant, is to travel with a small Equipage.

[Page 330]The usual Road passes thro' new Capua, but you ought to agree with the Guide to carry you to the old City, either in going or returning.

You may also make it a part of your Bargain, That if the Sea be so rough that you cannot without danger pass the Gulf between Mola and Cajeta, you may be furnish'd with Horses to take a compass about the Gulf, which you may do in a little time. The Essence of Oranges made at Cajeta is said to be the best in Italy, 'tis only to be had in the Convents.

At the Gate of Terracina 'tis usual to pass by the foot of the Mountain towards the Sea, where the way is easie; but those who have a mind to see the Town, may ascend streight to it.

Between Piperno and Terracina you may see the Abby of Fossa-nuova, about two or three hun­dred paces from the Road, at the Entry into the Wood of Piperno. Those who are desirous to see the footsteps of the Mule mention'd in one of my Letters, may quickly satisfie their Curio­sity.

We agreed at Rome to be carried in Calashes, and to have all our Charges born, during the space of eleven days, from Rome to Florence, by the way of Viterbo, Sienna, Leghorn, Pisa, Lucca, and Pistoya, for six Italian Pistols a piece, which was somewhat too dear a Rate, tho', 'tis true, Ca­lashes were very scarce at Rome when we left it, and sometimes there is hardly one to be found, especially when the Brothers of the Frock come abroad in whole Troops to relieve their Garrisons. 'Tis six days Journey from Rome to Leghorn, from thence to Florence two days and a half, and as much more we spent in several places by the way.

[Page 331]They who design to stay somewhere in Italy, to learn the Language, ought to make choice of Sienna for their place of residence; the Floren­tin Pronunciation is accompanied with a harsh­ness that both offends the Ear, and is troublesom to the Throat; and at Rome they are confounded by the multitudes of Strangers, with whom they are daily oblig'd to converse; but at Sienna you may find what the Proverb requires, The Tuscan Language, and a Roman Mouth. Or you may apply your self to a Master of the Languages in those Cities, where you intend to stay some months.

At Florence they sell all sorts of excellent Perfumes, Essences, Balsams, Pomades, &c. but the best are to be had of the Monks of St. Mark.

The Litters usually cost three Pistols and a half from Florence to Bologna, and the Horses eighteen, twenty, or two and twenty Julio's, ac­cording to the Season. The Way is too rough for Calashes, tho' 'tis not altogether impassable by 'em.

A Traveller ought never to defer enquiring about a Passage till he is just ready to depart, if he would not be forc'd to submit to the most un­reasonable Terms.

At Florence and Bologna you may have the use of a Gentleman's Coach for six Julio's a day, and any Boy at the Inn will easily find one for you.

We cross'd the whole Country of Lombardy in Calashes, which are chang'd at every Stage. From Bergamo to Milan we made a particular bargain, but the Inundation of the River Adda forc'd us to send back our Calashes. 'Tis proba­ble [Page 332] the Postilions knew well enough before they set out, that they could not pass further, for this is one of their ordinary Tricks. They seem to be surpriz'd when the Waters stop 'em, and, when they can, make the Passengers pay the full price that was agreed on for the whole Journey, under pretext that they cannot be justly blam'd for such an unforeseen Accident. 'Tis true, we might have oblig'd our Calashes to take a com­pass and carry us to Milan, but then we our selves must have had the deepest share in the trouble; and therefore we chose rather to embark on the Canal at Canonica, and divide the loss with the Postilions.

I know some persons, who having agreed for Calashes from Turin to Florence, were oblig'd to take Horses at Bologna, by reason of the falling of the Snow on the Appennins, and after much wrangling were forc'd to pay for the whole Journey.

These Tricks ought to teach Travellers Cir­cumspection in concluding of Bargains, and among other things, to make an express Proviso that if any unexpected Accident shall hinder the continuation of their Journey, they shall not be oblig'd to pay, but in proportion to the distance of the place where they shall happen to be stopt. And in the general, they ought to put all their Agreements in Writing, that are of any impor­tance.

Between Pavia and Milan you must turn a little out of the way, and spend an hour in visi­ting the Monastery of the Chartreux Fryars.

You must pass the Mountains between Novi and Genoa on Horseback; the Rates vary accor­ding to the Seasons.

[Page 333]We gather'd a great deal of Baggage during our Voyage, and the number of our Trunks was encreas'd by one half; but to rid our selves of that Encumbrance, we embark'd the greatest part of 'em at Genoa. They who buy a great number of Curiosities will do well to follow our Example: they will find at all the Sea-ports Consuls of their own Nations, who will help 'em to make a sure Bargain with the Masters of Ships, and give 'em all manner of assistance.

At our return from Genoa to Novi we hir'd a Coach with four Horses for Turin, to go by the way of Casal. At Turin we took Horses for Ge­neva, where we hir'd others for Basil, and from thence took fresh Horses for Strasburg, agreeing to pass by Hunninghen, Friburg, Brisack, and Sche­lestat. 'Tis to be observ'd that a Traveller saves himself a great deal of trouble, by making it a part of his Bargain, that his Charge shall be defray'd on the Road. 'Twould be needless to mention what our passage thro' these places cost us, since the Rates vary perpetually; the length or shortness of the Days, easiness or badness of the Roads, and greater or less concourse of Tra­vellers occasion these variations.

While you are at Geneva, you may hire Hor­ses, to see the fall of the Rhone, and at the same time take a view of the Fort l'Ecluse.

From Strasburg we embark'd on the Rhine to Cologn, the charge of the passage is inconside­rable. There are some large and well-cover'd Boats, which a Traveller ought to chuse rather than those little Wherries, that consist only of four or five Boards nail'd together. You may embark on the Rhine at Basil.

[Page 334]We hir'd a whole Coach from Cologn to Brus­sels, where we took another for Ghent, and from thence continu'd our Journey to Ostend by several Canals; the price of places in the Boats is fix'd, and at Ostend we hir'd a Coach, that we might arrive the sooner at Newport, tho' there is also a Canal between these two Cities.

The Boat that passes between Brussels and Villebroeck is extreamly commodious: The Pas­sengers may be accommodated with Meat and Drink; and in the best Chamber, call'd the Roufle, there is a Chimney, and a little compleat Set of Furniture: You must pay somewhat ex­traordinary to be in this Chamber.

Besides, the things which I either describ'd or mention'd in the account of Antwerp, Travel­lers may visit the Abby of St. Michael, and espe­cially the Refectory, and the Pictures in the Abbot's Apartment, the Churches of the Carme­lites, St. James, and the Dominicans, and the Ma­gazines of Tapestry.

At Antwerp you may be well accommodated at Laboreur's; and in Brussels, at Sieur Drouïn's at the Sign of the Golden Fountain.

They who have not the conveniency of a Yacht for their passage to England, need not scru­ple to go by the Pacquet-boat, which, tho' not so honourable, is both as safe and as good a Sailer as the other.

D. Antonio de Guevara Bishop of Mondonedo, and Preacher to Charles the Fifth, relates, That the application of a Bag of Saffron to the Re­gion of the Heart, is an effectua l Remedy against the Sickness and Vomiting with which [Page 335] those that are notI'm inform'd by some Persons that they have receiv'd great Benefit on such occasions, by applying a Bag stuff'd with grey Salt heaten small, to the Stomack. And others assure me, That the best Remedy is, to keep always, night and day, a piece of Earth under the Nose; for which purpose they provide a sufficient quantity of Earth, and preserve it fresh in a Pot of Clay; and when they have us'd a piece so long till it begins to grow dry, they put it in again into the Pot, and take out some fresh Earth. accustom'd to the Sea are usually troubl'd. And he adds, That he try'd the Experiment with very good success, when he follow'd his Master to Afric, in his Expedition against Tunis.

'Tis almost impossible to give Directions con­cerning the Road that ought to be taken by those who design to travel to Italy, since the choice of that depends on the place where they intend to enter the Country, and the time they resolve to spend in it. Only, in the general, they ought to consult the Map, and so to take their Measures, that they may see the last days of the Carnaval at Venice, the Holy Week at Rome, and the Octave of the Sacrament at Bologna; to avoid being at Rome during the great Heats; to traverse the Country, to see as much of it as they can; and to endeavour not to pass twice by the same way. If they cannot be at Venice during the Carnaval, they ought at least to be there on Ascension-day.

It may perhaps be convenient for two or three Strangers to travel in company together; their Fellowship sometimes makes 'em pass their hours more cheerfully, and employ the time they be­stow in making Observations with better Success and greater Pleasure, especially when they are all Men of Probity, and of one Humour.

[Page 336]But these Societies are obnoxious to the same Inconveniencies with which Marriage is attend­ed; for when their Humors do not agree, it had been better for 'em they had never come together. Some are curious, desirous to see and examin every thing with care, and never scruple to expose themselves to a shower of Rain, or to find their Dinner cold at the Inn, if they can but make some new Discovery or important Observation: whereas there are others who tra­vel like Post-horses, and neither mind Inscripti­ons nor Libraries, provided they can find a good Bed at night, and good Victuals when they are hungry. And therefore a prudent Person ought never to enter into a Society, till he has first throughly studied the Humors of his intended Companions.

Besides, 'tis by no means convenient to travel in Companies in Italy; the Inns are so miserable that oftentimes they can neither accommodate their Guests with Meat nor Beds, when they are too numerous.

A Stranger ought always to be furnish'd with some Iron Machin, to shut his Door on the inside, which may be easily contriv'd, and made of se­veral sorts; for it happens not unfrequently, that the Doors of the Lodging-rooms have nei­ther Lock nor Bolt; and 'tis commonly observ'd, that Opportunity makes a Thief.

The Curiosity of a Traveller, especially of a young man, who goes to see the World that he may learn to live in it, should not be confin'd barely to Enquiries after inanimate Curiosities. They whose Quality can procure 'em admittance in the Courts of Princes, ought never to pass [Page 337] by such places without visiting 'em. They ought also to see good Company, to enquire af­ter those Persons that are famous for their Skill in Arts and Sciences, and to discourse with 'em, for 'tis impossible to receive certain Informati­on of any thing, but from Persons of that Cha­racter, and their Converse is in all respects use­ful.

To prevent the Inconveniencies of a bad Lodging, they who do not carry a compleat Bed about with 'em ought at least to make pro­vision of Bed-cloaths and Coverlets. I do not propose this piece of Caution to comply with the over-niceness of some Persons, but to guard against the ill consequences of an incommodious Bed, that may be very prejudicial to Health, which is so necessary a Blessing, that if it were only for the preservation of that, a Traveller ought to avoid all manner of Excess.

To conclude, if we call to mind that a Tra­veller is more obnoxious than other Persons to Accidents that may disturb the Repose of his Life, this Reflexion ought to be a new and powerful Motive to engage him not to forget the principal Duties of it.

The END.

THE TABLE.

  • ABgarus Page 44
  • Academy for Painting at Milan 216
  • Academies of Ingenious Persons in Italy 239
  • Academy at Geneva 260
  • Adda, a River 207
  • Admiral Coligni massacr'd, 30
  • Adrian's Mausoleum 33
  • An extraordinary Adventure 299
  • Agats at Friburg 271
  • Air sparkling in the night 184
  • Aix in Savoy 256
  • Aix la Chapelle 276
  • its Privileges 277
  • Alba 88
  • Albana ibid.
  • Albergo, the great Hospital in Genoa 227
  • Albert Durer draws all his Fi­gures with Whiskers 29
  • Aldobrandin Wedding 49
  • Aldroandus's Cabinet 186
  • Alexander VI. fortifies Castle St. Angelo 33
  • his Repartee concerning Pasquin 54
  • prostrate at his Master's Feet 180
  • Alexander the Great, 119, 252
  • Alexandria 233
  • Alsatia burnt 273
  • Altar pierc'd by a Host 73
  • Amalasuntha strangl'd 148
  • Amber, what it is 211
  • A great Dish of one piece of Am­ber ibid.
  • Ambition 252
  • Anagram on the Republic of Geneva 262
  • Anastasius the Bibliothecary, 97
  • Andes, Virgil's Birth-place, 203
  • Ann, Pope John the Twelfth's Mistress 102
  • Annius of Viterbo 145
  • Antipasto 240
  • Antique Pieces 171
  • Antiquities of the Cities of Italy 250
  • Antwerp 294
  • Apparition of three Saints to a Boatman 13
  • Aqua felice 72
  • Aqua-pendente 148
  • Ara Coeli, a Church 123
  • [Page]Arch of Titus, at Rome 125
  • Arch of Constantin ibid.
  • Good Archers 265
  • Architecture of Rome 94
  • Architecture; see Instructions to a Traveller.
  • Christians nick-nam'd Arenarii, 133
  • Ark of the Covenant 45
  • Armenians at Rome 115
  • Arms of Adam 281
  • of Bern and Geneva, 265
  • of Sienna 152
  • of Venice 3
  • Arno, a River 158
  • Arscot, its Duke; a pleasant Story 295
  • Arsenal of Bern 265
  • of Brussels 285
  • of Casal 234
  • of Castle St. Angelo 33
  • of Florence 181
  • of Geneva 257
  • of Lucca 162
  • of Strasburg 273
  • of the Vatican 33
  • Arve, a River 256
  • Ascanius's Tomb 88
  • Asinelli, a Tower 190
  • Asparagus grows in the Fields near Pavia 222
  • Balaam's Ass 45
  • Astroites 157
  • St. Augustin's Body brought from Sardinia to Pavia 221
  • Augustus 123
  • The House of Austria cures Wens and Stammerers 207
B
  • Balaam's Ass 45
  • Balsams excellent 181
  • Banners in St. Mark's Place 3
  • Baptism of Infidels at Rome, 116
  • Baptistery at Florence 177
  • at Pisa 158
  • Palace Barberin Palestrina, 92
  • at the four Fountains 93
  • St. Peter's Bark 160
  • The Sixteen Barks 63
  • Barnabots 8
  • Barth. Coglione 206
  • Barth. Zanicheli 192
  • Basil 269
  • Bastions double 234
  • Baths of Agrippa 64
  • Bayonets prohibited in the Cities of Italy 246
  • Beauty of Rome 18, 19, &c.
  • of the Country about Flo­rence 169
  • Bed enrich'd with Jewels 66
  • Hanging Beds 253
  • Jesuits Bell at Brussels 290
  • Sound of the Bells of Jerusalem, 45
  • Extraordinary Bell at Mantua, 203
  • Great Bell of Milan 215
  • [Page]Bellarmin 104
  • Gentilis and John Bellini 9
  • M. Bellori 52, 138
  • Belvedere 31, 59
  • Villa Benedetti 55
  • Bennet IX. made Pope at ten years of age 78
  • Bergamask, a good Country, 207
  • Bergamo 206
  • Bern 265
  • Bezoar 155
  • German Bible 32
  • Biedoblo, a City in Afric, turn'd to Stone 67
  • Bishops of Basil and Geneva 269
  • Two Bishops rise from the Dead, 278
  • A Blind Man a good Engraver, 93
  • Blondel's Treatise against Pope Joan refuted 107, &c.
    • See Popes, Joan.
  • Boëtius a Native of Pavia, 220
  • Bologna 184
  • Bolsena 148
  • Bombarding of Genoa, 227
  • Robert Bone 265
  • Works in Bone 195
  • An abominable Book 85
  • Golden Book at Venice 7
  • Palace Borghese 21
  • Villa Borghese 64
  • Cavalier Borri 35
  • Bozzolo 200
  • Brabant 293
  • Brabantins 284
  • Brescia 203
  • The pretended Coyness of a young Bride 49
  • Bridge St. Angelo 71
  • Bridge Sixtus ibid.
  • Brisack 271
  • Angelo Bronzini a Painter, 180
  • A very rare Brooch 41
  • Bruges 301
  • Brussels 283
  • Bruxillus reckons Two hundred and eighty thousand Gods at Rome 22
  • Bucephalus 119
  • Buffalo's 240
  • Burgundians defeated at the Battel of Morat 264
  • Butter scarce in Italy 241
C
  • Several Cabinets at Rome, 65
  • Cabinet of Aldroandus at Bo­logna 186
  • of M. Bellori 138
  • of the Marquess de Cospi, 186
  • of M. Fesch and Eras­mus 269
  • of Kircher 140
  • of the Duke of Mantua, 202
  • [Page]of M. Settala at Milan 210
  • of the Great Duke of Tu­scany 172, 173
  • Calendrin Professor of Divinity at Geneva 261
  • Calepin, where buried 206
  • Sea Calf 282
  • Calvin 262
  • Campagna di Roma 249
  • Campo Santo, at Pisa 159
  • Canal Navilio 207
  • Candlestick of Amber 172
  • Cannon made of the Nails of the Door of the Pantheon, 23
  • Cannon, when first brought into the Field 206
  • Caper-shrub 248
  • Capirol 119
  • Cardinals their ancient Titles, 32
  • Carobe-Tree 248
  • Casal 233
  • Cascade of Tivoli 61
  • Castle St. Angelo 33
  • Castle of Cremona 199
  • Castles very rare in the Country of I [...]aly 242
  • Castor and Pollux 39
  • Catacombs 127, &c.
  • Cathedral of Florence 175
  • of Milan 212
  • of Pisa 158
  • of Sienna 149
  • Celibacy the cause of Disorders, 37
  • Ceremonies us'd in the Baptism of the Jews 116
  • of washing the Feet of Pilgrims 117
  • of Rome 20, 28
  • troublesom at Florence 182
  • Certaldo, a Hill full of Shells, 153
  • Cestius's Pyramid 49
  • Bor'd Chair for the Popes, 74, 102
  • Sleeping Chairs 249
  • Chalcondylas 102
  • Imperial Chamber 275
  • Chamber where Charles V. was born 300
  • Twelve thousand and Five hun­dred Chambers in the Vati­can Palace 28
  • Four thousand Chambers in the Palace Palestrina 92
  • Chambery 255
  • Palace of the Chancery 91
  • Fine Chapels 87
  • Chapel of St. Lawrence in Flo­rence 178
  • of the Holy Handkerchief in Turin 236
  • of the Holy Sacrament of Miracles 290
  • Chapter of Liege 279
  • Hetruscan Characters 172
  • Charles V. crown'd at Aix and Bologna 187
  • splendidly entertain'd by [Page] John Daens a Merchant of Antwerp 296
  • was born, proclaim'd Em­peror, and took K. Francis I. on St. Matthias's Day, 300
  • Cheeses at Parma weighing 500 pounds each 241
  • Villa Chigi 241
  • Palace Chigi 90
  • Church of Annunciata at Ge­noa 230
  • of St. Anthony 88
  • of St. Constance 137
  • of S. John de Lateran, 87
  • of St. Lawrence at Flo­rence 178
  • of St. Mary major 87
  • of St. Peter at Rome 18, 24, 25
  • Cathedral of Sienna 149
    • See Cathedral.
  • Church-yard of Pisa 159
  • Cicero 120
  • L. Q. Cincinnatus 278
  • Ciphers of Christ's Name, 134
  • A Circle of Gold round Bologna offer'd for the Ransom of King Hentius 190
  • Circuit of Rome 16
  • Citadel of Bergamo 206
  • of Brescia 204
  • of Casal 233
  • of Florence 181
  • of Mantua 201
  • of Milan 216
  • of Parma and Antwerp, 196, 294
  • of Sienna 152
  • of Turin 236
  • Clement IV. and his two Daugh­ters 20
  • Clement VII. crowns Charles V. at Bologna 187
  • Coal 280
  • Barth. Coglion 206
  • Coligni massacr'd 30
  • Coliseum 125
  • The Gates Collatina and Col­lina 99
  • Roman College 139
  • College of the Nobility at Par­ma 197
  • Collyridian Hereticks 35
  • M. Colomies 97
  • Family of Colonna's very noble, 93
  • Palace Colonna 93
  • Columns in the State of Venice 3
  • Fine Columns 23, 39
  • Column on which St. Paul was beheaded 73
  • on which the Cock crew when St. Peter deny'd Christ, 73
  • which was cleft on the day of the Passion 73
  • call'd Milliarium 121
  • The Columns of Trajan and An­tonin 126
  • [Page]Columns of Porphyry 178
  • A wonderful Column 159
  • Commerce of Geneva 232
  • Comparison of Frescati and Ver­sailles, 59
  • Fine Convents 184
  • St. Martin's Cope 205
  • Cork-trees 247
  • Corpus-christi Day 217
  • Cotton 248
  • Council of the Court 275
  • of Soissons 103
  • Courtesans of Rome 48
  • of Venice ibid.
  • Cramp cur'd with a Ring 206
  • Cremona 199
  • Cross of the penitent Thief, 45
  • Genealogy of the Family of Crouy 281
  • Crucifix drawn by Mich. Ange­lo from a crucified Man, 21
  • which spoke to St. Bridget, 42
  • which spoke to St. Peter, ibid.
  • which spoke to St. Andrew des Ursins 181
  • which bow'd its Head, 231
  • cloth'd like a Switzer, 268
  • Crucifixion of St. Peter 73
  • Crystal of the Rock 219
  • Cuirasses made for Women 229
  • Curtius's Lake 125
  • Cybele 100
  • Cypress-tree two hundred years old 247
D
  • Dactyli Judaei 157
  • J. Daens treated Charles V. 296
  • Dance of Death by Holben, 270
  • David descends from Heaven to play on his Harp at St. Ka­therine's Wedding 151
  • Day, when begun by the Italians, 251
  • Deluge 154
  • Dendrites 157
  • Description of the Chapel of St. Lawrence 178
  • of the Venus of Medicis 175
  • of certain shining Flies, 193
  • Device of the Republic of Ge­neva 261
  • A Ship full of Devils 14
  • Devils perch on a Walnut-tree, 45
  • Diamond of the Great Duke of Tuscany 174
  • A wrought Diamond found in a piece of Marble 62
  • Dianae Speculum 89
  • Dice of Pilate's Soldiers 73
  • Disciples of Emaus painted with Chaplets. 30
  • Dish in which the Paschal Lamb [Page] was eaten 231
  • Dish made of one Emerald 231
  • A large Dish of one piece of Am­ber 211
  • A Diver drown'd 63
  • Doctor Molinos 35
  • Doge of Venice 4
  • his Revenue ibid.
  • Doge of Genoa 4, 229
  • must be Fifty years old, ib.
  • Dogesses or Dogresses of Ve­nice 5
  • Bolonia Dogs 186
  • Sea-Dog 282
  • Dogs draw Coaches at Brussels, 286
  • Doliolo 52
  • Donation of Maud to the Popes 144
  • Pretended Donation of Constan­tin the Great to the Popes, ibid.
  • Doves of Peace 134
  • Duillius a Roman Consul, the first who was honour'd with a Na­val Triumph 120
  • Creation of the Dukes of Par­ma 196
E
  • Eagles of Geneva 265
  • Earl of Ossory 173
  • The Earth swallows up a Soldier, 165
  • Easterlings their House 295
  • A rare Eccho 219
  • Another Eccho which repeats a syllable forty times 219
  • Elogy of Rome by the Abbot of Ʋrsperg, in the margin 85
  • of Leonard de Vinci, 207
  • Enzelin's Tomb 190
  • Epigrams on the Bor'd Chair, 85, 86
  • Style of Christian Epitaphs, 132
  • Epitaph of a Bishop 301
  • of a Horse 286
  • of Jo. de Fuc. 147
  • of Proculus 191
  • of Quintin Mathys 297
  • of Raphael Urbin 23
  • of Richard II, King of England 164
  • Eridanus 234
  • Est, Est, Est 147
  • Etymology of Alexandria, 233
  • of Alexis 168
  • of Beatrix 167
  • of St. Cecilia 168
  • of St. Christina 167
  • of Cyprian 168
  • of Damian 167
  • of George ibid.
  • of Gorgonian 168
  • of Jerome ibid.
  • of St. Katherine 150
  • her History ibid.
  • of Martin 167
  • of St. Maurice ibid.
  • [Page]of Pavia 223
  • of Saturnian 168
  • of St. Siphorian 167
  • Exchange of Antwerp 296
  • why call'd Bourse ibid.
F
  • Fans us'd by Men 192
  • Fardingales worn at Genoa, 229
  • Palace Farnese 90
  • The Fathers 107
  • La Favorite, a House of Plea­sure 202
  • Faustina deify'd 138
  • Faustina in love with a Gladia­tor 66
  • Festival kept at Geneva in me­mory of the Scalado 258
  • Festival observ'd at Brussels, 288
  • Indian Fig-trees 248
  • Fistic-Nuts ibid.
  • Order of the Golden Fleece, 301
  • Flies shining in the Night, 193
  • Florence 169
  • Flowers 287
  • A rare Flower 65
  • Fort-Lewis 274
  • Fort of Urban VIII. 193
  • Fortune a Goddess 138
  • Fortune Panthea ibid.
  • Divers Fossils 157
  • A Fountain tasts of Milk, 124
  • A pleasant Fountain 188
  • St. Francis's Hood 180
  • St. Fredian changes the course of a River 163
  • Frescati 59
  • Friburg in Brisgaw 271
  • Good Fruit at Genoa 241
  • Roman Funerals 51, 133
  • Fury of the Heathens against the Sepulchres of the Christi­ans 133
G
  • Gabel on Corn and Wine at Ge­noa 232
  • Gabrino Fondulio 200
  • Gallery of the Great Duke of Tuscany 172
  • Galley-Slaves at Leghorn, 161
  • Game scarce in Italy 242
  • Castle Gandolfo 88
  • Gardens of Genoa 226
  • Garisenda, a Tower in Bologna 190
  • Garnet a Jesuite 139
  • Fine brazen Gates 177
  • Gates Collatina and Collina, 99
  • Genealogy in a streight Line from Adam 281
  • Geneva 257
  • Genoa 224
  • The several Governments of Genoa ibid.
  • Ghent 298
  • [Page]less than Lovain ibid.
  • Gibelins 143, 166
  • The Gladiator in St. James's Park at Whitehall 64
  • Glass Windows are rare in Italy 226
  • A fine Looking-Glass 91
  • Large Globes 173
  • Gods of Rome, how many, 22
  • Gondola's at Venice 11
  • St. Gondulfus 278
  • Gonfalonier of Lucca 162
  • Government of Lucca ibid.
  • Granite a sort of Marble 95
  • Grashoppers 146
  • Greeks at Rome 115
  • St. Gregory's Dialogue with an Image 42
  • Grisler a Governor in Switzer­land 265
  • Cool Grotto's 53
  • Grotta di Cane 329
  • Guastalla 268
  • St. Gudula's Church 290
  • Guelphs & Gibelins, 143, 166
  • Guttum, what it is 139
  • Gutschoven 281
H
  • Ridiculous Habits 269
  • Habit of young Noblemen at Ve­nice 73
  • of the Counsellors of Basil, 269
  • Hail the scourge of Piedmont, 234
  • Great Hall 175
  • Hameranus 252
  • Holy Handkerchief in seven dif­ferent places 237
  • Heats at Rome 249
  • Hentius's Tomb 190
  • Henry IV. King of Denmark, 245
  • Hercules Farnese 91
  • History of the Church of Ara Coeli 123
  • of a Cannon at Brussels, 284
  • of two Columns of Porphyry 178
  • of another Column ibid.
  • of a Crucifix at Genoa.
    • See Crucifix.
  • of two Divers 63
  • of a Father and his Son, 399
  • of a Festival at Brussels, 288
  • of a Gentleman's falling in­to a Ditch 127
  • of Hentius and the People of Bologna 190
  • of a Hermit who hang'd himself publickly, 140
  • of St. James Shakehorse, 46
  • of St. Katherine of Sienna 150
  • of the Ring and Thumb of [Page] St. Mark 13
  • of the Foundation of the Church of St. Mary major 87
  • of the Foundation of the Church of St. Mary of the People 45
  • of a rich Merchant at Antwerp 296
  • of a Nostredame or Image of our Lady 165
  • of Quintin Mathys, 297
  • of the Emperor Sigismund and Pope John XXIII, 200
  • of Sixtus V, and the Prince of Parma 34
  • of the Statues at Villa Pamphili 68
  • A Hog half cover'd with Wooll, 210
  • Holben, a famous Painter, 270
  • St. Francis's Hood 180
  • Horatii and Curiatii 88
  • Horns of Ammon 157
  • — Fossil 212
  • of Moses 45
  • of the Rhinoceros 172
  • of Ʋnicorns 211
  • Horses in the Capitol 119
  • of Marble ibid.
  • at Monte cavallo ibid.
  • at Rome blest at St. An­thony's Church, 88
  • Three famous Horses 285
  • Twelve thousand Crowns given for a Horse ibid.
  • A Horse's Tail twenty foot long, 173
  • Great Hospital of Genoa, 227
  • of Milan, 217
  • Hospital of the Trinity at Rome 141
  • Host, how carried at Venice, 142
  • Houïlle 280
  • Goodman Houïlleux ibid.
  • Hours, how reckon'd in Italy, 251
  • House of Sibylla Tiburtina, 62
  • Houses of the Easterlings, 296
  • at Rome 17, 90
  • Houses of Pleasure of the Duke of Mantua 202
  • about Rome; see Tivoli and Frescati.
  • of the Duke of Savoy, 236
  • of the Great Duke of Tu­scany, 181
  • Hunninghen 270
  • Double white Hyacinth a very rare Flower 65
I
  • Jacobins of Bern 266
  • St. James Shake horse 46
  • St. James devoutly ador'd at Pi­stoya 166
  • Jargon of Bergamo 206
  • Jealousie of the Italians 246
  • The Jesuite Garnet 139
  • [Page]Jews of Brussels 290
  • of Rome 116
  • marry before they are twenty years old ibid.
  • of Venice 6
  • Image of the Virgin chides St. Gregory 42
  • Other speaking Images, ibid.
  • Three Images weep and bleed, ib.
  • Image of Christ, made by Christ himself 44
  • of Christ, made by An­gels 87
  • of Christ, begun by Nico­demus, and finish'd by Angels 162
  • of the Virgin, about which Angels sing Litanies, 88
  • of our Lady, which toss'd the little Jesus from one Arm to another, 165
    • See Crucifix.
  • Infant turn'd to Stone 66
  • Ingratitude 148
  • Inhabitants of Venice 2
  • Fine Inlay'd Work 189, 206
  • Innocent XI. Pope 118
  • Inns meanly furnish'd 239
  • Inscription against Women, 27
  • on the Pedestal of a Sta­tue of Justice, 252
  • on the Gate of the Ma­nufactory of Bern, 266
  • at Viterbo 144
  • A curious Inscription 159
  • Forg'd Inscriptions 145
  • Institution of the Order of the Golden Fleece 301
  • Invention of Painting in Oyl, 52
  • Inundations of the Tiber 71
  • Joan the She Pope 74
  • Mistress of Pope John XII. 101
  • John Annius of Viterbo, 145
  • of Bruges, Inventer of Painting in Oil, 52
  • — Daens 296
  • XII. made Pope before he was 18 years old, 78
  • St. John de Morienne 256
  • Floting Islands 63
  • Italians 239
  • their Rhodomontades, 199
  • Jujube-trees 248
  • Treaty of St. Julian 258
  • Juliers 276
  • Palace Justiniani 90
K
  • St. Katherine of Sienna 150
  • of Vigri 188
  • Two Kings taken Prisoners, 223
  • Tomb of the Three Kings, 219
  • Kings-Evil. William III. rejects the superstitious Custom of his Predecessors, with respect to this Disease, 206
  • Knives with Twelve Blades, 183
L
  • [Page]Labarum 205
  • Lachrymatories 132
  • Ladies of Venice 12
  • Lagunes of Venice 4
  • Lake of Bolsena 147
  • of Castel-Gandolfo 89
  • of Curtius 125
  • of Geneva 257, 258
  • of Mount Cenis 254
  • of Nemi 89
  • of Solfatara 63
  • of Vico or Cyminus, 143
  • Sepulchral Lamps 139
  • Language of Bergamo, 206
  • Lanthorn of Judas 45
  • St. John de Lateran 86
  • St. Lawrence's Chapel 178
  • Lausanne 264
  • Lazaret, an Hospital in Milan, 217
  • Leda 39
  • Leghorn 160
  • Lentisk-trees, 248
  • Leo IV. 104
  • Leo X. 97
  • Leonard de Vinci, the most ac­complish'd man of his Age, 207
  • Letter of St. Chrysostom to Caesarius 180
  • Liberty of Venice, true Liber­tinism 5
  • Library of the Palace Altieri, 91
  • — Ambrosian 215
  • of the Palace Barberini, 92
  • of Heidelberg 31
  • of St. Lawrence 179
  • of the Roman College, 139
  • of the Vatican 31
  • of Duke of Ʋrbin ibid.
  • Liege 279
  • Cassini's Meridian Line 188
  • Lion escapes out of his Den with­out doing any hurt 181
  • Litanies of the Virgin sung by Angels 88
  • The Pope's Litters 118
  • The Pope's Livery ibid.
  • A live Lobster found in a Rock, 62
  • Lombardy a plain Country, 184, 192
  • St. Longin 202
  • Lorier 187
  • Love, the cause of Disorders, 246
  • Fort Louis 275
  • Lovain 280
  • one of the Laws of its Col­lege ibid.
  • the Well of its Castle, ibid.
  • number of its Colleges, 281
  • Lubeccio, a dangerous Wind, 228
  • Lucciole, or shining Flies, 193
  • Lucca 161
  • Villa Ludovisia 59, 66
  • Several Families of Lucca retire to Geneva 165
  • [Page]Luther 32
M
  • Machine to drive away Flies, 192
  • M. Magliabecchi 180
  • Magna Mater 138
  • A Maid General of an Army, 77
  • A Maid made Pope 74
  • Maid of Orleans 77
  • Poor Maids, how married, 246
  • Maids put into Monasteries or married 20
  • Young Maids dance and sing, 152
  • A Man with one Body, two Heads and four Hands 181
  • Manner of reckoning the Hours in Italy 251
  • Mantua 200
  • Manuscripts written by Aldro­andus 187
  • Manuscripts, 179, 216, 262, 269
  • Maple-trees 247
  • Marble and Minerals in Italy, 248
  • Marforio 55
  • St. Mark's Thumb 13
  • Marriage of St. Katherine of Sienna with Christ 150
  • Marriage of Palm-trees 247
  • Marmirol 202
  • Carlo Marotti a famous Painter 92
  • Martana an Island 147
  • Martin V. 214
  • St. Mary major 87
  • St. Mary del popolo 45
  • Massacre of Coligni 30
  • Massacre of Paris approv'd by the Pope ibid.
  • A Medal on that Massacre, 31
  • Masterpiece of Raphael 73
  • Mastreicht 278
  • Quintin Mathys 297
  • Countess Maud Pope Gregory the seventh's Mistriss, 26, 144
  • Mausoleum of Adrian 33
  • of Cecilia 127
  • of Cestius 49
    • See Tombs. —
  • Merry May 153
  • Measure of Christ 73
  • Mechlin 292
  • Rare Medals 40
  • on Q. Christian of Sweden 252
  • Winter Melons 241
  • Meridian Line by Cassini, 188
  • Mezeray's Opinion of Pope Joan 85
  • S. Michael in Bosco a fine Con­vent, 184
  • Milan 209
  • Milanese, a fertile Country, 207
  • Four hundred Silk-Mills in Bo­logna 185
  • No Wind-Mills in Italy, 251
  • Milliarium a Pillar 120
  • [Page]Miracles of St. Fredian 163
  • Modena 193
  • Dr. Molinos 35
  • Money of Bologna 185
  • of Genoa 232
  • of Judas 45
  • of Lucca 163
  • Monks love ease 183
  • Monks at the Virgin's Wedding 30
  • Mons testaceus 52
  • Villa Montalte 67
  • Monte Cavallo 119
  • Monte Dracone 59
  • Monte Fiascone 146
  • Monte Juovo 183
  • Monte nuovo, a Hill that grew up in one night 154
  • Montorio 73
  • S. Monulfus 278
  • Morat 264
  • Morges ibid.
  • S. John de Morienne 256
  • Moses's Rod 214
  • Essays to find the perpetual Mo­tion 210
  • Mount-Cenis 254
  • Mountain of St. Julian, 167
  • of Radicofani 148
  • in Tuscany full of shells 153
  • of Viterbo 143
  • Mountains of Italy 248
  • of Rome 16
  • Mourners hir'd 133
  • Mourning for the Death of Caesar 159
  • White Mulberry-trees 248
  • Muscatello Wine of Tuscany, 240
  • Effects of Music 245
  • Mushroomns bearing three half-body'd human Bodies 157
  • Musket-barrel of Massive Gold 173
  • Myrtle-trees 248
N
  • Nail of the Crucifixion 214
  • Natura rerum parens 138
  • Nature does nothing in vain, 156, 157
  • Christ's Navel-string 45
  • Navilio, a Canal 207
  • Newport 304
  • Noblemen of Genoa 229
  • of Italy live in the Cities, 242
  • of Lucca 165
  • of Venice, 6, 7, 8, 13, 245
  • Nostredame, or the Image of our Lady at Bologna; see Image
  • Nuns of Venice 5
  • Nurseries 181
O
  • Ever-green Oaks 248
  • Obelisk of St. Peter 95
  • [Page]Obelisks of Rome 94, 95
  • Sweet Odours 181
  • Oglio, a River 205
  • Oil us'd instead of Butter, 241
  • Sweet Oil found in a piece of Marble 62
  • Olive-trees 248
  • Ombrella's 149
  • Onuphrius 97
  • Switzer Orators 270
  • Order of the Precious Blood, 202
  • of the Golden Fleece 301
  • Oriflam of Constantin 204
  • of St. Denis 205
  • Maid of Orleans 77
  • Ornaments us'd at the Empe­ror's Coronation 278
  • Osiris 92
  • Earl of Ossory 173
  • Ostend 303
  • Ancient Medals of Otho 187
P
  • Antique Painting 49, 138
  • Painting resembling a Print, 216
  • Painting in Oil, when invented, 52
  • Palace Altieri 91
  • — Barberini at the four Fountains 93
  • — Barberini Palestrina 92
  • at Bologna 186
  • — Borghese 21
  • — Caprara 186
  • of the Chancery 91
  • —Chigi 90
  • of Queen Christian of Sweden 39
  • — Colonna 93
  • —Farnese 90
  • Royal at Genoa 228
  • —Justiniani 90
  • of the Duke of Mantua, 201
  • of Monte Cavallo 119
  • of the Duke of Parma, 196
  • of the Duke of Savoy, 236
  • of the Vatican 28
  • of Whitehall 202
  • Palaces of Rome 90
  • Palm-branches 247
  • Palm-Sunday ibid.
  • Palm-trees ibid.
  • Villa Pamphili 67
  • Panthea 138
  • Pantheon 21
  • of Athens 23
  • Parma 196
  • its Dutchy a Fief of the Ecclesiastic State, 34
  • Paschal II. 45
  • Pasquin 54
  • Curious Pavement of the Cathe­dral of Sienna 149
  • Pavement of Florence 170
  • Pavia 220
  • St. Paul's Splinter 45
  • Penitents of Rome 140
  • [Page]Perfumes 181
  • Persecution of the French Pro­testants 38
  • St. Peter's Church at Rome, 18, 24
  • Petrification 66
  • A Phantom 280
  • Phidias a Sculptor 119
  • Philip the Good Duke of Bur­gundy institutes the Order of the Golden Fleece 301
  • Philipsburg 274
  • Pictures criticiz'd, 29, 30, 69, 176
  • Divers Pictures, 9, 10, 11, 21, 28, 29, 30, 40, 60, 65, 66, 67, 73, 90, 93, 120, 136, 150, 151, 173, 197, 218, 269, 270
  • Eight thousand Original Pictures at the Palace Colonna 93
  • Piedmont 234
  • Pietro-mala, a City in Tuscany, where the Air shines in the Night 184
  • S. Pietro in carcere 124
  • Pilgrims at Rome 117
  • Pipes, their Ʋse among the Ro­mans 51
  • Pisa 157
  • Pistoya 166
  • Pl [...]cenza 198
  • M. de Plessis Mornay 102
  • Po, a River 199, 222
  • Poggi bonzi 152
  • Poggio Imperiale 181
  • Castor and Pollux 39
  • Martinus Polonus 98, 99
  • Pomegranat-trees 248
  • Pomaerium 199
  • Popes chosen young 78
  • Female Pope 74
  • Ancient Habits of Popes 29
  • Monstrous Popes no Rarities, 85
  • Verses on certain Popes, 85, 86
  • Pope Joan 74, 75, &c. 96, &c. 149
  • Port of Antwerp 295
  • Portraiture of Christ made by himself 44
  • another begun by Nicode­mus, and finish'd by An­gels, 162
  • of Cromwel 173
  • of General Monk ibid.
  • of the Earl of Ossory, ibid.
  • of Paul V, 21
  • of the Queen of Sweden, 38
  • Pouzzolane, asort of Sand, 133
  • Prattinola 181
  • Praxiteles a Sculptor 119
  • Luther's Prayer 32
  • Italian Preachers 47
  • Christ's Prepuce 45
  • Pressentina, an Island 147
  • Printing house of Plantin, 298
  • Privileges of Aix la Chapelle, 277
  • of the People of Bologna, 185
  • [Page]of the Province of Brabant 292
  • of the Noblemen of Ve­nice 13
  • Procession on Corpus-Christi-day 217, 229, 230
  • Pro Christi, what it is 135
  • Proculus 191
  • Fine Prospects, 28, 59, 69, 198
  • Protectors of Genoa 232
  • Protestants, where buried at Venice 14
  • persecuted in France 38
  • Proverbs 55, 56, &c.
  • on Justice 177
  • concerning Milan, 219
  • Pyramid of Cestius 49, 52
Q
  • Quails passing from Afric to Italy 242
  • Quintin Mathys 297
R
  • Radicofani 148
  • Raisins of Bologna 241
  • Ramparts of Antwerp 294
  • of Turin 236
  • Ranuccio Prince of Parma, 34
  • Raphael of Urbin 23, 28
  • his Masterpiece, 73
  • Rarities natural 173
    • See Cabinets of Curiosities.
  • Rates of the Apostolical Chamber, 84
  • Reggio 195
  • Regisole, a Statue 221
  • Curious Relicks, 41, 42, 45, 46, 73, 74, 180, 214, 219
  • Remora 212
  • Repartee of Alexander VI, con­cerning Pasquin 54
  • of a Venetian Ambassador concerning the Donation of St. Peter's Patrimony, 144
  • Republic of Lucca 161
  • Contradictory Revelations of St. Katherine of Sienna, and St. Bridget 151
  • Revenue of the Doge of Venice 4
  • of the Republic 6
  • Rhine, a River 269
  • Riches of Antwerp 295
  • Ring of St. Mark 13
  • A River miraculously changes its course 163
  • Robert Bone, an Archer, 265
  • Rocks soften'd 124
  • Rhodomontades 298
  • Rods of Moses and Aaron, 45, 176, 180, 214
  • Rome 16
  • its Antiquities, 64, 65, 66
  • Rostrum 228
  • Rotonda; see Pantheon
  • Rupes Tarpeia 124
S
  • [Page]Sacking of Mantua 202
  • Sanctum Sanctorum 87
  • Golden Sand 256
  • Sauciges of Bologna 185
  • Villa Savelli 67
  • Saxum mirae magnitudinis, 27
  • S. Scala 87
  • Scalado of Geneva 257
  • Scarperia, a Town 183
  • Scheld, a River 294, 295
  • Schelestat 272
  • Scorpions 243
  • Scotists 151
  • Rare Sculptures 39
    • See Instruct. to a Traveller.
  • Sea has lost ground at Leghorn, 160
  • Senat of Women 126
  • Sena 248
  • Sentences and Proverbs, 55, 56, 57
  • Serein, or Evening Dew very dan­gerous about Rome 249
  • Sermons 47
  • Sermon of an amorous Monk 48
  • The brazen Serpent of the Wil­derness to be seen at Milan, 218
  • Fossil Shells 157
  • Shells on the Mountains of Tu­scany 153
  • found in the Kidneys, 155
  • Ship full of Devils 14
  • Sibyls 124
  • Siege of Ostend 303
  • Sienna 149
  • Silk of Bologna 185
  • Sixtus IV. settl'd Whores at Rome 48
  • Sixtus V. very severe 34
  • banishes and afterwards recalls the Whores, 48
  • Skeleton petrefy'd 66
  • Snow at Rome in August, 87
  • Soloturn 268
  • Songs of young Girls in Tusca­ny 152
  • Spaniards in love with Statues, 26
  • Orlando Furioso's Spear 221
  • Speculum Dianae 89
  • Spiders
  • Spire 275
  • M. Spon 132
  • Sponges 248
  • Spurs of Reggio 195
  • Stammerers; see Austria.
  • Star of the three Kings 45
  • Statue of Alexander Farnese and his Son Rannuccio, 198
  • of the Duke of Alva, 294
  • of Boniface VIII. 186
  • of Cosmo I. Great Duke of Tuscany 160, 171
  • of a Father and his Son, 290
  • of God the Father, 176
  • of Grego [...]y XIII. 186
  • of Martin the Fifth with­out [Page] a Beard 214
  • of a Peasant who discover'd Catilin's Conspiracy, 174
  • of Tullia, the only one of its kind in Rome 92
  • of Urban VIII, made by a blind man 93
  • Ancient and very rare Statues, 65, 66, 67, 68
  • Fine Statues, 31, 39, 65, 66, 90, 91, 92, 93, 119, 120, 172, 174
  • Fine Statues made by Bernin, 65 One thousand eight hundred and sixty seven ancient Statues in the Palace Justiniani at Rome 90
  • Steeple of Antwerp 297
  • The highest Steeple in Europe, 272
  • Stile of Christian Epitaphs, 132
  • Stiletto's of Milan 246
  • Stone of Abraham's Sacrifice, 46
  • on which Christ was cir­cumcis'd ibid.
  • — Dendrites 182
  • on which the Soldiers cast Lots for Christ's Garments 73
  • — Travertin 62
  • The Devil's Stone 41
  • A very great Stone 27
  • Pumice Stones 248
  • Shining Stones of Bologna, 192
  • Strasburg 272
  • Fine Street 198
  • Prodigious Strength 208
  • S [...]rigil, what it is 139
  • Sturgeon 241
  • M. le Suêur 97
  • A vast Sum of Money given by a private Person for the building and adorning the Front of the Cathedral Church of Mi­lan 213
  • A Picture of the last Supper, in which there is a Gammon of Bacon instead of the Paschal Lamb 29
  • Susa 254
  • Christina Queen of Sweden, 38
  • Swelling of the Throat; see Au­stria
  • The wearing of Swords prohibi­ted at Genoa and Lucca. 246
T
  • A fine Table 173
  • Tagliacozzo 185
  • Tail of Balaam's Ass 45
  • of a Horse twenty foot long, 173
  • Tarantula's 244
  • Tarpeia rupes 124
  • Tears preserv'd 133
  • William Tell a Switzer 77
  • Temple of Bacchus 136
  • Tesin, a River 222
  • [Page]Tetrapolis, or Viterbo 145
  • Fine Theater 196
  • Thomists 151
  • Tiber 71
  • Tilmont 280
  • Tin scarce in Italy 251
  • Tivoli 60
  • Tomb of Adrian the Emper. 33
  • of Ascanius 88
  • of Aubigné 262
  • of St. Augustin 221
  • of Bacchus 137
  • of Cecilia 127
  • of Cestius 49
  • of Charles the Great, 277
  • of Barth. Coglione, 206
  • of St. Dominic 189
  • of Hentius or Enzelin, 190
  • of Jo. de Fuc. 147
  • of St. Luke 132
  • of Michael Angelo, 180
  • of St. Peter 27
  • of Raphael Urbin 23
  • of Richard King of En­gland 164
  • of a Duke of Rohan 262
  • Tombs of the Horatii and Cu­ratii 88
  • of the three Kings 219
  • of the Naso's 52
  • of the Great Dukes of Tu­scany 179
  • Ancient Tombs of the Christi­ans 133
  • Tongue of Stammerers; see Austria
  • Tortoises 192
  • Town turn'd to Stone 67
  • Tower of Bristol 191
  • of Cremona 199
  • of Florence 176
    • See Steeple.
  • Towers of Bologna 190
  • of Pisa 158
  • of Sienna 152
  • of Viterbo 143
  • The Transfiguration the best and last Work of Raphael, 73
  • Treaty of St. Julian 258
  • Trees in Italy 247
  • Naval Triumph 120
  • Ancient Trophies ibid.
  • Trouts 259
  • Trunk of Belvedere 31
  • A dry Trunk of a Tree blossoms, 178
  • Tulips dear 65
  • Tullia, a rare Statue 92
  • Tullianum, an ancient Prison, 124
  • Divers Tuns 240
  • Turin 235
  • Turnep exactly resembling a Hand 157
  • A fine Turquoise 174
V
  • Valentin, a House of Pleasure be­longing [Page] to the Duke of Savoy 236
  • Vatican Palace 28
  • Vaticanus ibid.
  • Venus roughly handl'd, 39, 68
  • The famous Venus of Medicis, 174
  • Verrua, a fortified Town in Piedmont 234
  • Versailles 59, 61
  • Verses on the preservation of Health 258
  • on the Popes 85, 86
  • Fine Antique Vessels, 40, 139, 173, 174
  • Vessels of the Temple of Solo­mon 125
  • Ugolino, at Bologna 187
  • Ugonottorum Strages 31
  • Via Aemilia 143
  • Katherine de Vigri 188
  • Villa Benedetti 55
  • — Borghese 64
  • — Chigi 67
  • — Ludovisia 66
  • — Montalta or Savelli 67
  • — Pamphili ibid.
  • Virgil in Manuscript 32
  • born at Andes 203
  • Conception of the Virgin 151
  • Viterbo 143
  • Unicorns 211
  • University of Bologna 185
  • of Lovain 281
  • of Parma 197
  • of Pavia 220
  • Volto Santo 162
  • Utrecht 279
W
  • Wardrobe of the Great Duke of Tuscany 175
  • Washing of the Feet of Pilgrims at Rome 117
  • Water at Antwerp 298
  • of the Nile 222
  • of the Tesin very cold, ibid.
  • Aldobrandin Wedding 49
  • Wedding of St. Katherin of Sienna 150
  • of the Virgin Mary, 30
  • An extraordinary Well 236
  • Whores settl'd at Rome by Popes 48
  • William III. See King's Evil.
  • William Tell a Switzer, 77, 265
  • Italian Wine 240
  • Complement of Wine in Swit­zerland 270
  • She-Wolf of Romulus, 65, 120
  • Women of Brussels 288
  • enslav'd 37
  • enter but once a year into St. Peter's Chapel, 27
  • invisible at Florence, 182
  • separated from Men at Church 247
  • [Page]Women and Men ride in diffe­rent Coaches 197
  • Apology for Women 78
  • A Woman with a Beard like a Capuchin Fryar 187
  • A Woman in love with a Gla­diator 66
  • English Women happy 37
  • Odd Habits of Women. See Habits.
  • Senate of Women 126
  • Warlike Women 229
  • A Worm found in a Flint, 62
  • Writing awry 216
  • Sibyllin Writings 124
Z
  • Barth. Zanicheli 192
  • Fred. Zucchero a Painter, 176
  • Zuccone, the Work of Dona­telli 177
FINIS.

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