LETTER I.

HOLLAND is a Country so near and so well known to yours, that I should, perhaps, have said nothing of it, had not your ex­press Commands obliged me to it; in com­pliance therefore with your desires, I will endeavour to give you an Idea of this rare Country, with a particular Account of the Cities I saw there. As to the rest, Holland hath so many particulars worth your Ob­servation and View, that I think it im­possible you should decline making a Voyage thither: The Passage over is but short, and [Page 2] you will have a thousand opportunities to render it convenient. But being persuaded, that you will not fail, one day, to satisfie so reasonable a Curiosity, I shall not enter­tain you so largely as I might, with an ac­count of those charming Provinces, wherein I have formerly, for a long time, sojourned.

We observed, from our Vessel, as we ap­proach'd these Coasts, that the nearer we came, we perceived the tops of the Trees, and the summits of the Steeples, as if they issued out of a Land sunk under Water. In short, Holland is universally flat and low, like one continued Meadow. 'Tis cut in­to Canals, and large Ditches, to receive and drain the Waters, which otherwise would soak the Lands like drunken Tosts; there are but few Places that can be Cultivated. A Country like this is not naturally Habi­table; yet, Industry, constant Labour, and the Love of Profit, have brought it into such a State, that there is not in the World, one so Rich, and so well Peopled, propor­tionably to its extentPufendorf. Others pretend that the Seven Provinces to­gether do not contain more than Two Mil­lions of Inha­bitants. It is difficult for a private Person to learn the certainty of those kind of things. See Vossius.: Some do not stick to averr, that this little Province alone, in­cludes more than Two Millions and Five Hundred Thousand Souls.

The Cities are as it wereThe Ʋnited Provinces have one City of the first Rank, viz. Am­sterdam. Above twenty of the second Rank, which may compare with the great Cities of France, after Paris. More than Thirty of the third, which equal Parma and Modena. Above two hundred great Towns, and more than eight hundred Villages. G. L. link'd toge­ther, and we may say that they are all of a [Page 3] sparkling Beauty. The more we consider them, the more agreeable we find them.There is no less curiosity and neatness in their Ships than in their Houses. This Cleanliness ex­tends through­out: You may find it in the Stables, where the Cows Tales are tied up with a little Cord to the Roof, least they should defile themselves. They wash all, and scowre all the Walls, Moveables, and Ʋtensils of Houshold-stuff. Great care is taken to keep their Houses neat and fine, both within and without, they Wash them, and Paint the very Bricks over, from time to time; so that they al­ways look new. The Doors and the Cross-bars are commonly revested with hewn Stone or Marble; the inside of the Shops, and lower Rooms, even with the common Tradesmen, are also commonly lined with square Tiles. The Glass-Win­dows all shine like Chrystal; every Window hath its Shutters, which are commonly painted red or green, and make altogether a mixture most pleasant to the sight.

The Streets are so clean, that the Wo­men walk abroad in Slippers all the Year. The Canals every where are adorned with two rows of Trees, which make a delight­ful Shade, and a delicate Walk on each side the Streets. You have here almost a gene­ral Idea not only of the Cities, but also of the Towns and Villages, for the same Order and Neatness is to be seen throughout.

The most usual way of Travelling, is by the Canals, and nothing is so convenient. The Boats are drawn by Horses, and they go off at set hours. You are therein con­veniently seated, against Storms of Rain or Wind: So that you change the Country, without knowing almost that you are out of the House. When the Canals are Frozen, the Skates and the Sledges — are in­stead of the Boats; and this new way of [Page 4] Travelling is a second Pleasure. Those who slide skilfully on Skates will out-run the Post-Horses, some will undertake to go a League in ten Minutes. Thus you see how commodious their Canals are, but this is not all the convenience they receive, by the drain of their Waters; they are also useful for Traffick, and transport of Goods as well as Men. The Earth which they take out, raises the Banks, and makes the ways more fit for Foot-Men; they serve both for Enclosure and Ornament. In some Places they have plenty of Fish.

Abundance of things are naturally want­ing in Holland: But Foreign Countries plentifully supply them with Corn, as well as Wines and all other Necessaries for Life. All the World knows how far their Trade extends: And it may well be said, that as it in part gave the original Strength to the State, so it is still its principal or only support. Every Man in Holland is a kind of Amphi­bious Creature, equally accustomed both to Sea and Land. I remember I have read it in a good Author: That this sole Province hath moreThe number of Vessels in the common Opinion is esteemed so great, that it is thought to equal all the rest of Europe together. Card. Bentivoglio. Pufendorf saith the same, and others bave writ that the Ʋnited Provinces have as many Ships as Houses. I cannot think any Person hath exactly Calculated them, every one speaks as he imagines, or hath heard, so that little heed is to be given to Dis­courses of this nature. Shipping than all the rest of Europe.

It is true, that if on one side the Sea is the cause of all the Riches of Holland, it [Page 5] must also be confessed, that it hath some­times caused terrible Damages. It is stopped with Banks of Earth, which we call Dams, and all care imaginable is taken to maintain them. They have Mills to empty the Wa­ter, and use all imaginable Industry to pre­vent Mischief, or to remedy it when it hath happened. Yet some places of these Banks are often broken, and the rolling of the Waves makes most furious Ravages. So that as to theOn the 17th of April, 1420. one hundred thousand People were drowned at Dort, or thereabouts. There were fif­teen Parishes drowned. Seb. Munster. The Sea carri­ed away 121 Houses of the Villages of Scheveling, and 1574. (S. Parival) at this day the Church is near the Sea, whereas formerly it was in the midst of the Village. Sea, they may well use the Device of a Torch Reversed. That which feeds me kills me. This, Sir, is the fatal Mis­chief of Holland, a strange inconveniency, of which all that can be said is, That they labour to help it as much as they can; but can never restore the drowned Cities, nor the lives of many Millions of Men who have, from time to time, perished by these Deluges.

It is not without some regret that I disturb your former and more pleasing Idea's; but I fansie that to apprehend things well, we must know both what's for, and what's against them. Nor is this the only defect. For the Air is no where very good. Sometimes in the fair­est Weather it suddenly becomes Cold, and this inequality admits of no great difference between the Summer and Winter [Page 6] Cloaths.The Gabel of Salt is the least considera­ble; Salt costs but two Pence or three Pence the Pound, of sixteen Ounces. The greatest Imports are on Wine, Beer, and Corn. The Impositions are great, which partly cause the dearness of Victuals: But the People of this Country who are born under the Yoak, and whom their great Trade hath made live at ease, scarce think of it. I confess I should not long admire those continued Meadows of which Holland is composed: They seem very fine for a few hours, but one grows weary of their perpe­tual uniformity. And I am perswaded the variety of your Province of Kent, must be far more grateful.

We were at the same time surpris'd and charm'd at the first thing which we observ'd at our arrival at Rotterdam. This City having this singular Qualification, that ma­ny of its Canals are broad and deep enough to receive the greatest Vessels, nothing can compare with the effect produced by the extra­ordinary mixture of Chimnies, tops of Trees, and Streamers of Vessels. One is astonished at the Port to behold so rare a confusion, as is that of the tops of the Houses and Trees, and Penons of the Masts, one cannot tell whether it be a Fleet, a City, or a Forest, at least one sees a thing seldom heard of, a Convention of those three things, the Sea, the City, and the Campagne.

ROTTER­DAM. Rotterdam is not accounted as one of the Principal Cities of the Province, because it hath not been always in such a flourishing condition as we see it at this day; but without doubt it ought to be the second of the first Rank, whereas now it is but the first of the second. Its Port is most com­modious [Page 7] and fair, and is always fill'd and encompass'd with Shipping, and its Trade increases daily. It is very large, well Peo­pled, rich and pleasant, and hath the neat­ness I have represented; the situation is flat, as you are to suppose of the rest of the Cities.

The Magazines for the equipping of Ships. The Town-house, aad that of the Bank, are all most stately Structures. When you come into the Glass-house, you see them at work on little enamell'd Bowls, and I know not how many Children's Baubles, with which they drive a great Trade a­mongst the Savages. Also near this you have the curious Works in Paper of the Sieur Van Uliet, as Ships, Palaces, and whole Landskips in Basso relievo, all as they say done and made out with the point of a Pen-knife.

There are at present two French Churches at Rotterdam; which the Magistrates take care particularly to see furnished with Mi­nisters of exemplary Merit. It is certain, that this City is become famous for its Learned Men, as well as by its Trade and Beauty. It is this which bestowed on us, the Novels of the Republick of Learning, a work so accepted and esteemed: I might even say, a Work which is ready to be la­mented, since the Indisposition of the Au­thor gives us reason to fear; he will be no more able to apply himself to so painful an undertaking; I am informed that Mr. Bas­nage de Beauval intends the continuation. [Page 8] He is indowed with a great deal of Learn­ing, an extraordinary Wit, and all the sharpness which can be thought necessary for the well-ordering such a Work.

Erasmus was born in Rotter­dam, Octob. 27. 1467. he died at Basil, June 12. 1536. They e­rected a Statue of Wood, An. 1540. one of Stone, Anno 1557. and at last that of Brass, which is seen this day, Anno 1622.The brazen Statue of Erasmus is in the Place called the great Bridge. This Statue is on a Pedestal of Marble, encompassed with Rails of Iron. Erasmus is in a Doctors Habit, with a Book in his Hand. Hard by you may see the House in which he was born, it is a very little one, having this Distich wrote on the door.

Being for some Reasons induced to visit a Village called Leckerkeck, three Leagues distant from hence, upon the River Leck, I will impart to you three or four curious things which I observed there.

The Lord of the Place told us, That the Salmon Fishing, the fifth part whereof only belongs to him, yielded him formerly twenty thousand Francs per annum, and oft­times more. And that the Salmon having left it by degrees, that Revenue is so strange­ly diminish'd, that it scarcely defrays the Charge of the Fishery in many Years, so that he had given it over, only lying under a necessity to maintain the Right. For­merly also the Salmon spawned before Dor­dretcht in such multitudes that the Maid-Servants of that City, made their Bargains not to be compelled to eat it above twice [Page 9] in the Week, but at present they are rid of that trouble.

We went to see a Country Woman there, who last Year was brought to Bed of Six Sons, there were four of them Baptized, the Eldest of which lived four Months.

A Maid of the same Village carried a Musquet Seven Years, without being dis­covered what she was. She went always by the name de la Bonto, which Name she was Mustered by, and at present she is a Maid-Servant in the House of the Lord of that Place.

Some Years since died in this place, Gueret Bastiense, a Fisherman, who was eight Foot high, and weighed 500 Weight, though he was very lean. We were in his House, the Doors whereof are very high, where they showed us many of his Cloaths and Things.

The Post hour obliges me here to finish this Letter; be perswaded, Sir, that I will omit nothing which I believe proper for your satisfaction. And if Time shall not permit me to particularize many things, assure your self my accounts shall be with­out Partiality, after I have got an exact In­formation. I am,

LETTER II.

DELFE.WE came from Rotterdam to Delfe in less than two hours, by the Rotter­dam Boat. Delfe holds the third Rank in the Assembly of the States of Holland. I will give you no other Description than what I have told you of the Cities in gene­ral, the Idea whereof you must always call to mind. One of the principal Things which they show to Strangers, is the Tomb of Prince William, who wasBy Balthasar Gerard, or Se­rach of the Franc County, Anno 1584. the Prince 52 Years old. Assassinated in this CityYou may also see the Palace of the State-holder, the Grand Place, and the great Hospital with the Garden.. The Arsenal and the Town­house are the principal things whicy they show to Strangers. It is but a good League from Delfe to the Hague, following the course of the Canal. You pass not far from Riswick and the Voorburg, which are very pleasant Villages, all there is full of Houses of Pleasure, Walks, and delightful Gardens.

HAGUE.Although the Hague hath the Privileges of a City, yet is it put in the Rank of the Boroughs, because it is Walled: And it sends no Deputies to the States General. Yet we may say, that its Grandeur and [Page 11] Beauty deserve as much Honour as the best Cities.

At present King of Engl.The Prince of Orange resides there, and his Court is very fine. The States General are thereYou may see the place of this Assembly, and the other Hall where the States of Hol­land meet. Assembled. The Ambassadors and other Ministers of Foreign Princes have there their Residence. The People are more civil and sociable than in other places. Travellers sojourn here. The Coaches are numerous. The Houses and Walks are very fine. The Air is perfectly good. In a word, 'tis most certain the Hague is an Inchanting place. The Wood is one of its chief Ornaments: For as I told you the other day, it tires one to see nothing but near Objects: To walk in a Wood in Hol­land affords double refreshment. For you have also the Walk by the Sea side to the Village of Scheveling, Between the Hague and Scheveling is a House of Plea­sure, belonging to the Earl of Portland. whither you go in a good half hour, by a strait Pathway cut cross the Downs. There is a good Fishery at Scheveling. There you may see a Cha­riot with Wheels and Sails, which the Wind drives on the Sand of the Sea-shore, which is both hard and even.

The Sieur Resner, a Gentleman of Zealand, who dwells at the Hague, hath a Cabinet, where, amongst other things, you may see a great number of very curious Shells.

The situation of the Hague highly deserves distinction from all the rest of Holland, be­cause of the variety of its Landscape: For [Page 12] it hath the Wood on the North, the Mea­dow on the South, some Arable Lands East­ward, and the Sea to the West.

Its Trade is inconsiderable, in respect of the Cities which have Havens, or great Manufactures yet good store of bu­siness is there transacted: Besides, there are many rich and noble Families, which live on their Revenues or Employs in the Army or Court.

This great concourse of Persons of Qua­lity, is the cause that it is always furnished with Masters, requisite for the Instruction of young Gentlemen in all sorts of Exer­cises. The Academy beyond all is of great Reputation. There is one of the finest ri­ding Houses I ever beheld, and the Rider is a very skilful and honest Man.

The Prince of Orange is lodgedThe Chappel of this Palace now is made use of for the French Church. in the Palace of the ancient Earls of Holland. To speak truth, this Palace hath nothing in it extraordinary: That which is called the Old Court, where the Princes of Orange for­merly dwelt, is the most regular building.In the Neigh­bourhood of the Hague is the Honflerdyke, the House of the Wood, and the Garden of Mr. De St. An­neland. The Houses of Pleasure are exquisitely beautiful.

We had the Curiosity to go on purpose to the Village of Losdun, to see there two Dishes of Brass, in which were Baptized the three hundred sixty five Children of the [Page 13] Countess of Heneberg, Daughter to Florent, This History is to be found in Erasmus, Vives, Guicciardin, Christoval, Guy Dominick Peter, Author of the An­nals of Flanders: And in many others, who speak of this Lying-in, as of a thing credible and well Attested, and as they believe true. The Annals relate, that the 365 Children, were Baptized by Don William, the Bishop Suffragan of Treves, and that both they and their Mother died on the same day, which was Good-Friday, in the Year 1276. Surius Garon, and divers Chronologers, relate an History of a Lady of Provence, called Irmentrude, and Wife of Isembard, Earl of Altorfe, who being brought to Bed of twelve Sons, would have caused eleven to be Drowned in the River. They add, That Isembard, meeting the Woman which carried them, asked her what she had in her Pannier, the Woman answered, they were some little Whelps, which she went to drown; Isembard was resolved to see them, and having discovered the matter, he took the Children and put them to Nurses, and when they were grown up presented them all alive to his Wife; in memory of which, saith the History, that Family assumed the name of Wolf, which it still retains. John Pic de Mirandole II. hath written that a Woman of his Country, named Dorothy, brought twenty Children into the World at two Births, nine at one, and eleven at the other. Albert the Great, speaks of a German Woman, who was brought to Bed of one hundred and fifty Children. It would be no hard matter to produce a number of the like Examples. the Fourth Earl of Holland.

You have heard what hath been said of this Lady; that having reproached a Beg­gar-Woman for having too many Children, the poor Creature in answer, wished her as many as there were days in the Year; which that Year accordingly happened, for the Countess was brought to Bed of three hun­dred sixty five Children, who were all Christned, and the same day buried in the Church of Losdun. This History is to be seen a little more at large, in a great Picture, on the sides whereof the two Basins are fixed. We must not forget, that the Boys were named John, and the Girls Elizabeth. [Page 14] Mark Cremer relates of a Polonian Lady, the Wife of Count Virboslaus, who in sequel of such an Imprecation, was brought to Bed of thirty six Children.

I am loath so soon to part with the Hague, which, without contradiction, is one of the most pleasant Places in the World, but I must say something of Leyden and Haerlem, before I finish my Letter. But think not, that when you leave the Hague, and come to Leyden, you fall into a desart Country: Every thing hath its value, and that of Leyden is not small; it is true all the Cities of Holland are fair to amazement: And we cannot praise one enough, without saying so much, as must leave us no expressions for the other. Nevertheless, I should be glad to be able to give you some new Idea of the Beauties of Leyden.

LEYDEN.This City hath not so great a number of Coaches as are seen at the Hague, nor so much noisie business as Rotterdam. But per­haps its quiet is far more charming. It is a great City, but repose Rules there, and in it you enjoy all the sweets of a Country Life. Its little disturbance allows it an extraordi­nary Neatness: Nothing comes near that of its Houses, and we may compare the Streets to so many Alleys of a well-adorned Garden. Yet we must freely confess, that the Inhabitants of Leyden would willingly consent that their Pavement should be less clean, and that they endured a little more trouble, on condition they could be Masters of a good Haven: I have heard Projects [Page 15] have been contrived about it. But it's said, that their Land lies so low that they dare not give the Sea a Passage: So that the Woollen-Manufacture makes the greatest Trade of this City.

You know Leyden is verySome believe that the Town is a work of the Romons: Others attri­bute it to the Saxons: but Jo. Scaliger pretends it was made by the Earls not above four or five hundred Years ago. ancient, and there are still found some Marks of her An­tiquity. But that which renders it most Famous, is herThe number of Scholars is fifteen hundred or thereabouts. The Ʋniversity hath divers Privileges. University. They com­monly lead the Strangers to the Physick-School; and in the Anatomy-Hall you may see a great number of Skeletons of Men and Beasts: Many natural Rareties, and other Curiosities; as of Plants, Fruits, Ani­mals, Arms, strange Habits, Pictures, Mum­mies, curious Works, Urns, Images, &c. I fear you would incline to be incredulous of the Story of a Prussian Peasant which is there Painted: He had swallowed a very large Knife: So that they were forced to cut open his Stomach to get it out, after which, as is said, he lived eight Years.

In the midst of the Hall is an unfortu­nate Thief, whom they derided to extre­mity, after they had Hanged him. They fixed his Skeleton to a Gibbet, upon that of an Oxe, because he had been a Cow­stealer; they made another Shoes of his own Skin, and a Shirt to another of his own Bowels.

The Physick-Garden is not far from hence. A great number of Rareties are still to be seen in the Gallery of this Garden, and in the Cabinet called the Indian-Cabinet, to which this Gallery leads. I remember I [Page 16] observed amongst other things, an Ape, and a Cat, which were produced withThere are many flying Cats in the Province of Malabar. Tassoni. Wings: The hand of a Mermaid: A Stare with long Ears, a Vegetable Priapus, which is a most curious Plant: A Monster which issued out of a Hens Egg. A Piece of Mo­ney of Card or Paper, made at Leyden, when it was Besieged by the Spaniards in 1574. And a Serpent brought from Suri­nam, on whose Skin are several natural Figures, which much resemble some Ara­bick Characters. I make you this last Ob­servation, because your Tutor very much admires this little wonder of Nature. But indeed, to speak freely, I find nothing sin­gular in this, no more than in the Greek Letters which form, as some thought the turnings and windings of a Maze. There is so universal a diversity in all things in the World, that it is easie to find the like of the first Figure which presents it self, if we would give our selves the trouble of a search.

The greatest part of Animals, Insects, and other things, are hanged up in Vials fill'd with Spirits of Wine, whereby they are preserved from Corruption.

Going out hence, we were to see the great Church, which is a vast Pile; and afterwards we took Boat for Haerlem. But before we proceed on our Voyage, I must needs give you some account of the unfor­tunate destiny of the Rhine, of which there are some small remains at Leyden. Other Rivers increase their course and their glory, at the rate they proceed; but this so great [Page 17] and famous River, becomes nothing, and is utterly lost in the Harbour. After it hath been constrained to divide it self at Meeting with the Skenk Fort, where one half of its Waters, take the name of Wa­hal: the Yssel robs itIt is to be observed, that the branch of the Rhine, which takes to the right a lit­tle above Arn­heim, and carries the name of the Yssel, is not properly the Yssel. It is a Channel which Drusus digg'd, and brought near to a place now called Doesbourg, to make a com­munication at this place be­tween the Wa­ters of the Rhine and the Yssel. of the other half a little above Arnheim. Yet it goes on to that City, though much weakned, and at seven or eight Leagues from thence is again ob­lig'd to separate at the little City of Dor­stadt: Its principal Branch there takes a new Name, and is called the Leck, and the poor little stripp'd Rivulet, which escaped, and turns to the Right, retains still its name of Rhine, and passeth on to Utrecht, where it hath a fourth Division: The Vecht breaks off at that place, and takes its course to the North: And the little thred of Water which is yet called the Rhine, passeth qui­etly to Worden. It comes to bid its last farewel to Leyden, and faintly finisheth its course, by losing the small remainders of its Waters, in two or three Canals, with­out having the Honour to enter into the Sea. The Scamander, the Simois, and some other renowned Rivers, which are worthy to be compared to the Rhine, have yet found the same reverse of Fortune: The whole surface of the Earth is subject to continual Alterations. These Catastrophes put me in mind of what Ovid hath said,

[Page 18]But we are not ignorant of the cause of the Rhine's fate; it was an Earthquake which shook the Downs, andIn the Year 860. or as John Ger­brardus at Leyden, in the Year 840. This Author represents the then Storm as most terrible and dreadful. filled the Mouth of this River, and forc'd it to return to seek a new Passage. The Leck was then scarce worth notice, but the Waters of the Rhine, which were driven back and over­flowed the Country, swelled, inlarged, and deepned the Leck's Canal; and the entrance to Sea hath ever since been shut against the Rhine's ancient course: This poor River, which had run the greatest hazards in the Lake of Constance, and which had thrown it self down the Precipice, near to Schaff­hausen, at last loses both its Reputation and Waters, at the Village of Catwick.

There are still found some Pieces of the Card or Paper-Money, which were Coined during the famous Siege carried on by the Spaniards in 1574. on one side was Inscribed, Haec libertatis ergo, and on the other Pugno pro Patria.

They likewise told me, that they have still preserv'd the Board of the famous Tay­lorJohn Bu­cold., called John of Leyden, (because born there) head of the Anabaptists, King of Munster, &c. You know the Person.

It is about five Leagues from Leyden to Harlem, but the Villages and pleasant Houses which you see on the right and left, all a­long the Canal, make the way seem very short. Harlem is large and very agreeable: It is in one respect better than Leyden. Its Waters are quickn'd by the little River Sparen, which joyns it self to its Canals, and [Page 19] which gives to some their course, and to others some Circulation. The Linen and Tape which are made at Harlem, have for a long time been its chief Trade: But I hear that at present they have a great Ma­nufacture of Silk Stuffs.It was dedi­cated to S. Ba­ron. It is the greatest of all the Province. The Great Church and the Town-house are the stateliest Build­ings: And its Wood of tall Trees, with its long and strait Walks, is one of its principal Ornaments. It boasts to have given Birth to Laurence Coster, who, if you will believe them, was theWith Tho­mas Pieterson, John Gutten­burg, and his two Brothers. Inventer of Printing. But you know, Sir, that Guttenburg of Strasburgh disputes that Invention with this Coster: And that the pretended Conjurer, John Faustus of Mentz, will give place to neither; and besides this Invention is attributed to Conrade and Arnold, There are to be seen in the Town house di­vers Rareties, amongst which they keep with particular care in a Casket of Silver, and wrapped in Silk, the first Book (according to those of Harlem) that ever was Printed: Its Title is Speculum humanae Sal­vationis: It hath many Figures. The keeping of this Book, is entrusted to several Magistrates, who have every one a different Key of the place where it is, which renders it not easie to be seen. The Statue of Laurence Coster is likewise to be seen in this place. The Inscription which you have here was put in Letters of Gold on the door of his House, with the following Verses: MEMORIAE SACRUM. Typographia Ars Artium omnium Conservatrix hic primum inventa circa annum 1440. Vana quid Archetypos & prela Moguntia jactas? Harlemi Archetypos prelaque nata scias. Extulit hic, monstrante Deo, Laurentius artem. Dissimulare virum, dissimulare Deum est. Brothers and Burgesses of the same City of Mentz. 'Tis strange that Hi­story is so blinded with Fables, that we cannot extricate the Truth in so novel a matter. If what Trigaultius and other Tra­vellers have said be true, that Printing is [Page 20] of so ancient usage in China it is very pro­bable,Tavernier as­sures us, that the Persians have not yet the use of Printing. that those who first brought it into Europe, were but Imitators of others. Meyer reports, that in the Year 1403. a Mermaid was brought to Harlem, who, by a furious Tempest, was thrown on the Neighbouring Shore: That they accustomed her to Eat several Meats, but her principal Food was Bread and Milk: That they taught her to Spin; and that she lived many Years. Others write, that this Mermaid was sent from Embden to Harlem. J. G. of Leyden adds, that she would often pull off her Cloaths to return to the Water, and that she had an odd kind of Speech. ((They did not understand her Speech, nor she our Language.) Locuti­onem ejus non intelligebant, sed nec ipsa nostrum intellexit idioma). And that she was buried in a Church-yard, because she had Learned to salute the Cross. He also said, that he knew Persons that had seen her.

We would willingly have again taken Boat to come from Harlem hither, but it being a little too late when we came from thence, and we willing to get hither as soon as we could, we thought it better to make use of a Coach. The Carriage was a little uneasie, because the Coach was not hung, but to make amends, it went a great deal swifter than the Boat. I am,

LETTER III.

I Had some regret to write my last Letter to you from Amsterdam, AMSTER­DAM. without giving any account of that famous City, but that I fansied I should do well to refresh my Me­mory with its Idea, that I might write things more certainly. In the mean time I intreat you to remember, that I have not promised to give you an intire description of any place: It would require a long con­tinuance in this City to learn every thing of it, and a great Volume to write it all.

Amsterdam is without doubt one of the most beautiful, admirable, and important Cities in the World; and 'tis certain, that it answers in every point the great Reputa­tion it hath in the World: But that one may be more Surprised with its Beauty, it would be best not to have known before­hand, the other Cities of Holland. I con­fess, that after I had seen the Haven of Rotterdam, and the Beauties of the Hague and Leyden, I was but little surprised when I came first to Amsterdam: I found nothing there which might much distinguish it from those other Cities. Nay, I must freely tell you, that the multitude of Carts [Page 22] and Truckles,There are some Streets which are always very clean. whose number swells daily by the vastness of the Trade, so pester and dirty the Streets, that it is not a very diverting Object to one who is charm'd only with such things as appear pleasant to the Eye, especi­ally if he come from another City, which can shew more neatness and tranquility.

There is no comparison to be made be­tween the greatness of Amsterdam and Lon­don, since, according to Calculation, there are near seven hundred thousand Souls in London, and Amsterdam contains not above two hundred thousand, although so great a number of French Refugees are lately settled there. Nevertheless, it must be acknow­ledged, that Amsterdam yields not to any City in the World for Riches, or extent of Trade. You know theThis Com­pany was esta­blished in 1594. East-India Compa­ny alone is so renowned and powerful that it hath made head against Princes, without interrupting the course of its Traffick. This famous City is all founded on Piles in the midst of a Marish: It is built on the South of the River Ye, Or Tye. which is, as it were, an Arm of the Zuyder-zee, on which the prodigious number of Ships resembles a vast Forest.

TheTwenty two Bastions. The Ditches are Eighty paces broad, deep and filled with running Water; the ordinary Garrison is eight Companies of 200 Men each: the Captains must be Amsterdamers. Besides, there are 60 Companies of Burghers, of 150 Men each. The Gates are shut at Nine of the Clock. They are partly guarded by the Citizens, and partly by the Garrison. The Keys are put into an Iron Chest in custody of the Citizens, and the chief Burgomaster keeps the Keys. G. L. Fortifications are not slight, and besides, there are Arsenals, and Sluces to [Page 23] drown all the Country about: So that it may be justly accounted a very strong place.It is said this Building cost three Mil­lions. The Town-house is a very large and stately Fabrick of hewn Stone, its length is one hundred and ten paces, and its breadth twenty four. The Foundation did cer­tainly cost as much as all the Superstructure. Its Architecture is highly valued, yet I fansie it ought to have had a fairer Portal, instead of those low and narrow Doors, which debase the entrance into this most splendid Palace; it were also to be wished, that the Court-yard before it were more neat and regular.

As soon as you leave this, you pass into theIt is called the New Church. It was formerly dedi­cated to St. Catharine. The Organs cost one hundred thou­sand Crowns. The Tomb of de Ruyter, is a piece worth your view in this Church. They designed to erect a very high Steeple to it, but that work remains imperfect. principal Church, which is not so large as those of Leyden and Harlem. It is to be considered, that Amsterdam, about four hundred and fifty Years ago was only a Village of Fishermen: And this so re­nowned a City in our Age, was but in a very indifferent condition when the Church, of which I am speaking, was built. In it they shew you the Pulpit, and tell you that it, together with its Canopy, cost twenty two thousand Crowns. It is made only of Wood, of Gothick Carving, much loaded with Ornaments. On the Glass-Windows of this Church is Painted the History of the Emperour Maximilian the Second, who honoured the Arms of the City with an Imperial Crown, in acknowledgment of the good Offices he had received from this City. The Portugueze Jews here are ex­traordinary Rich, and their Synagogue is [Page 24] aIt is a square Building, e­rected Anno 1671. not­withstanding the Inquisition against the Jews in Spain and Portugal. A Portugueze Jew (Don Jerome Nu­nez de Costa) was Agent of Portugal, at Amsterdam. And another (Don Emanuel de Belmont) Resident of Spain. This last received the Title of Count from the Em­perour. stately Building, whereas that of the High-Dutch is but mean and contempti­ble.

As we went along they brought us to one of theRasp-house. Houses of Correction for the young Debauchees, where they are con­strained to work: There was one in a dark Cellar, where he Pumped incessantly, with­out which the Cellar would in a quarter of an hour be filled with Water, and he by consequence in danger of Drowning. E­very one hath his Occupation and Task, which he must punctually perform under the Penalty of Whipping. Some are there for their lives, others only for a time. There is also the likeSpin-house. House for Whores, but they treat them with less Severity: This House is not very full. It is a dou­ble misfortune to about a Score of poor Creatures who are kept in this Prison to do Penance per force, whilst some thou­sands of their Comrades have their Tails at liberty: For to speak the truth, if these unhappy Recluses have deserved such a Treatment, it is most certain, that there are many others in Amsterdam who de­serve it more than they, yet are not thus shut up.

A modern Au­thor, who lived a long time at Amsterdam, hath written, that there are in that City about 13000 Roman Catholicks, and as many Lutherans, 4000 Anabaptists, 80 Families of Arminians, 50 of Quakers, 450 or some more of Portu­gueze Jews, 100 of High-Dutch Jews, and many private Persons who are of no Religion at all.The Roman Catholicks have here their Li­berty, as well as through all the States Do­minions: [Page 25] but I assure you that their num­ber is not near so great in this City, as some would perswade us. I had the fortune to discourse with a very intelligent and curi­ous Person, who hath examined this mat­ter; and he affirms, that the Roman Catho­licks, and the other Sectaries together, do not make a fourth part of the Inhabitants of Amsterdam. I know not whether you have heard of a kind of Convent of Nuns, call'dThere is 130 of them. They are in a large Cloyster. Their Church may easily contain 2000 People. Calvisius re­ports, that the Order of the Beguines was Instituted in the Year 1207. by one called Begues. Beguines, who are still tolerated here: There are a great many of them in the Spanish Netherlands. But because I believe you are not acquainted with this sort of Society, I will give you the Character of it in few and general terms: It is composed of Maidens or Widows who have no Chil­dren. There are amongst them some of all sorts of Qualities, and nothing is required to make them capable of admittance but good Testimonials, and an Estate sufficient to maintain them at their own Charges; every Beguine may have her House and ne­cessary conveniences by her self, or they may joyn several together, according as Kindred or Friendship may incline them. The place of this Society bears the name of the Beguinage, which is commonly like a little City inclosed within another, and hath about it a Wall and a Ditch. There is one Church in this inclosure, where the Beguines are obliged to be present at the hours appointed for their Devotions. Their Habits are black, and something fantastical. They regulate their Expences as they please [Page 26] themselves, as well for their Table as Fur­niture. They receive and pay Visits when they please. They quit the Beguinage when they are minded to Marry, or on any other occasion. And it may be said, that this retreat, far from the vowed constraint of a Convent, is a very sweet and reasonable manner of living.

The confusion caused by the Coaches, by reason of the perpetual Carriage of Mer­chandizes, and the danger of shaking the Houses, which, as I told you, are founded on Piles, is the reason that none but Strangers and Physicians are allowed to have any; Sleds indeed are permitted, but that being a slow and uneasie Carriage, there are none but old Women who make use of it.

We went to see a French Opera, where there was neither Machines, nor rich Cloaths, nor good Actors. That which we found most pleasant was a great Lass,You ought to see at Am­sterdam the Cabinets of Mr. Wiltzen, Vanderhem, Occo and Grill. C. Patin. who acts the part of a Man, and pro­nounc'd what she sung so well, that one would have believed her naturally French, tho' all she said was by rote, for she under­stood not a word of French. They say she was a Drummer for five or six Years amongst the Dutch Troops.

It is requisite I should say something of the famous Musick-Houses: They are a kind of Taverns or Halls for Dancing, where the young People, of the meanest sort, Men and Maids, meet every Evening. These are the meeting places, but the Intrigue is carried on in another. Usually Strangers [Page 27] have the curiosity to see them. They must make shew as if they had a mind to drink a Glass of Wine when it is offered, and give some gratuity to him or her who presents it.The Exchange of London is about 148 foot in length, and 120 in breadth.

The Burse or Exchange was built in the Year 1608. It is a Building of fine carved Stone, and founded on more than two thousand Piles. The place where the Mer­chants assemble is 200 foot long, and 124 in breadth. The Galleries are supported by forty six Pillars; they are neither so fine nor so numerous as those on the Ex­change at London.

The Academy, vulgarly called the illu­strious School, is a handsome Building: There they teach the Oriental and other Tongues: Divinity, Philosophy, History, &c. The Lawyers and the Physicians have also their Schools.

There are five Towers in the City, each of them having a great Clock, which are so placed and distributed, that the hours may be easily known in any part of the City. I had an hundred other Curiosities to tell you of Amsterdam, but I once more advise you to visit them your self.

We hope to depart to morrow for U­trecht, by the Canal; and tho' I cannot precisely tell the way we shall take thence to Cologne, yet I shall not fail to write to you as soon as I shall have wherewithal to fill a Letter.

I returned yesterday from Losdun, whi­ther some Friends obliged me to go a se­cond time with them. I am very glad I [Page 28] can inform you, that the Inscription which is seen in the Church of this Village, dif­fers from that in the Annals which I cited to you, in that, it calls the Bishop who Baptized the 365 Children, Guido, Suffra­gan of Utretcht; and in the Annals he is named William, Suffragan of Treves. This variation calls not in question the truth or probability of the Fact. There are many times alterations in the speaking and wri­ting of things which in themselves are very true; and this might be by the fault of the Transcriber. Above the Inscription are these two Verses:

And below, ‘Haec lege, mox animo stupefactus, Lector, abibis.’

LETTER IV.

WE were seven whole hours on the Canal between Amsterdam and U­trecht, but the way was extreamly pleasant, as well because of the fair Weather, and the fine Country, as of the good Company we had in the Boat.

We left on the Right-hand, three Leagues from Amsterdam, the old Castle of Abcow, with the Village of the same name, where are the bounds of the Province of Holland.

It was late when we came to Utrecht, and our Affairs allowed us to stay there but some part of the next day. This City be­gins to abate of the extream neatness of the Province of Holland, though it yet retains enough of it. You know it is great, anci­ent, and famous for its University.UTRECHT. The happy Union made here in the last AgeAnno 1579., which is the Band and Knot of the Re­publick, is an eternal Honour to this City. They boast of the extraordinary height of the Steeple of this Cathedral in which Church are kept some pretended Reliques,This Church was begun by Dagobert I. about the Year 630. which are in great Veneration with the Romanists.

[Page 30] M. Kercrin­gius, a famous Physician and Anatomist, dwelling at Utrecht, hath Foetus's of all Ages, by which you may observe the order, pro­portion, and progress of their Forma­tion, from the Egg to the forming of all the Organs of the Body. C. Patin.The Walk of the Mall is fine, and those of Utrecht esteem it the more, because it was spared by order of the French King when he came to that City some Years since; and his Troops, as you know, ruined all things thereabouts.

A Gentleman of Utrecht imparted a cu­rious Observation to me, by which you may judge of the number of Towns throughout this Country; he found forty eight, to each of which one may go easily from Utrecht in a day, and there are thirty three of them to which you may go and come back the same day.

When you go out of Utrecht, you find a Country altogether different from that we left last. The Canals and Ditches of Hol­land are changed into Hedges, and the Meadows into high and plowed Fields. Two hours from Utrecht we crossed the fine Avenues of Zeist in sight of a Castle on the right hand.ZEIST. It is a very fair Building, com­passed with large Ditches full of running Water, and adorn'd with Woods, Gardens, Statues, Fountains, and all other Embel­lishments you can desire. This House be­longs to one of the great Lords of the Country, who built it some Years since, and hath the repute of doing things mag­nificently.

Between Rhenen and Arnheim the Fields are almost wholly Planted with Tabaco, and the Stakes by which it is propped, make a shew of Vineyards at a distance.

[Page 31]Approaching the Village of Rhincom, three hours on this side Rhenen, you find a boun­dary Stone, which separates the Lordship of Utrecht from the Dutchy of Gueldres.

Arnheim is tolerably Fortified,ARNHEIM. otherwise I found nothing worth noting in it. The Beds in the Inns are made like Presses or Cupboards; which you go up a Ladder to, and after plunge your self into a deep Fea­ther-bed, and have another of the same sort for your covering.

Two good hours and an half from Arn­heim we passed the Yssell divided into three Branches very near each other: And then having traversed Doesbourg, DOES­BOURG. which is a little City on that River in the County of Zut­phen, we were forced to Dine with Biscuit and Milk in a paltry Village, and in the Evening we were treated much after the same manner at Ysselbourg, YSSEL­BOURG. which is a poor little dismantled place, at the entrance into the Country of Cleves.

There is scarce any thing but Woods and Sandy Grounds between Ysselbourg and Wesel; WESEL: formerly a Hans-Town. and this last place hath no great matter remarkable: Its Fortifications are so so. They are at present at Work on a Cittadel between the City and the Fort of Lippe on the bank of the Rhine. The Elector of Brandenburg gives liberty for the publick exercise of their Religion to the Roman Ca­tholicks in his Dutchy of Cleves, by a Treaty which that Prince made with the Duke of of Neuburg, now Elector Palatine, on condition that the Duke should grant the [Page 32] same liberty to the Protestants in his Dutchies of Juliers and Berg. There are four Churches at Wesel: The Protestants called Calvinists, have the two principal, the Lutherans the third, and those of the Roman Communion the other. The Jews have a little Syna­gogue there.

We passed the Lippe half an hour from Wesel, which River throws it self into the Rhine, and we came the same day in good time to Duisbourg. DUISBOURG formerly a Hans-Town. This City is about the bigness of Wesel, without Fortifications, or any thing considerable but its University. The principal Church is fair enough, and belongs to the Protestants. The Scholars walk about the Streets in their Morning-Gowns, like those of Leyden. I was in­formed that the Roman Catholicks might carry the Host about there, according to the plenary liberty which is granted them in all this Country, though they chose ra­ther to refrain from doing it, lest any acci­dents should happen which might disturb the peaceable manner of living which they and the Protestants enjoy together. A good half League from Duisbourg we entred into the Country of Berg, which, with that of Ju­liers, belongs to the Duke of Neuburg, El­dest Son to the Elector Palatine. And two hours after we passed through Keyserwaert, KEYSER­WAERT. which is a very little City upon the Rhine. It belongs to the Elector of Cologne, to whom, as we were informed, it remains in Mortgage, and by whom it was Fortified.

[Page 33]We have now been a few hours at Dussel­dorp, DUSSEL­DORP. where we have already walked about a great while to discover something worth our Observation. This City is bigger by half than Duisbourg, and every way better; there are no Suburbs to it, no more than to Keyserwart. The Fortifications are very well kept, and the Electoral Prince, the Duke of Newbourg, there makes his Resi­dence. This is all I can now say.

LETTER V.

THis Letter will give you an Account of part of what I could observe at Cologne in three days.COLOGNE, an Imperial City and Hans-Town. Otho the Great made it an Imperial City, and gave it the Privi­ledges it now enjoys. As we wander'd in our Walks abroad, you must expect no regular Order in the little Relations which I send you. I am glad to give you this Advertisement by the by, that you may not expect to have things in a better Me­thod than we found them.

[Page 34] Cologne is to be seen far enough off, and all in plain view in a level Country. The City is very great,There are 24 Gates, 13 to the Land, and 11 on the Rhine. surrounded with a Wall and dry Ditch, with Towers and Bastions which defend its Gates. There is rarely so great a number of Steeples to be any where seen, as appeared to us on the side we ap­proached it.

Cologne, as you know, is an Imperial City, governed by its Burgo-Masters: But the Arch-Bishop hath there a very great Power. This Prince takes cognizance of all Affairs both Civil and Criminal, and can Pardon those whom the Magistrates con­demn. And the Oath which the City takes, seems to be a kind of Homage: It is in these terms; We Free Burgesses of Cologne, do this day, for now, and for ever promise to — Arch-Bishop of Cologne, to be faithful and favourable to him, as long as he shall conserve in our Rights and Honour, and in our ancient Priviledges, Us, our Wives, our Children, and our City of Cologne. So God and his Saints help us.

There is great Jealousie be­tween the City and the Elector. They will not suffer him to stay long there with any great Train. Many Arch-Bishops have attempted their Liberties. Ʋnder the Reign of the Emperour Adol­phus of Nassaw, the Inhabitants went in Arms to meet their Arch-Bi­shop, as far as Woringhen in Brabant, where having put the Keys of their City between him and them in the Field of Battel, to be the price of the Victory, they obtained that with their Keys and Franchises. They have ever since celebrated a Festival on this Account, with a great deal of Ceremony. Heiss.If you please, you may have the Answer which the Bishop returns them; it was a Burgo-Master gave me them both.

[Page 35] We — by the Grace of God, Arch-Bishop of the Holy Church of Cologne, and Arch-Chancellor of the Empire in Italy: To the end that there may be an amicable Confederacy, entire Confidence, and sincere and inviolable Peace between Us and our dear Burgesses of the City of Cologne, do make known to all by these Pre­sents, that we do promise and declare sincerely, and without Fraud, that we do confirm all their Rights and Franchises, written or not written, old or new, within or without the City of Cologne, which have been granted to it by the Popes, Emperours, Kings, and Arch-Bishops, of Cologne, without ever doing any thing to violate the same. In Testimony whereof, &c.

The Chapter of Cologne is composed of sixty Canons, who ought all to be Princes or Earls. The four and twenty Eldest are the Capitularies.

It was formerly the Electors of Cologne, who Crowned the Emperour according to the Constitution of the Golden-Bull; but these Electors not having been Priests for a long time, those of Mentz perform that Office in their stead, and the last haveThey pretend also to this right, in quality of the first Arch-Bishops. The Emperour now reigning was Crowned by the Arch-Bishop of Cologne. since remained in possession of that Privi­ledge.

I am inform'd that there are here many Protestants known to be such: They go into the Lands of the Duke of New­bourg, to exercise their Religion. They are always call'd by their old name of [Page 36] Those who presented the Petition were Habited all alike. They never take it ill to be called Gueux, and to distinguish themselves by that Name, they hung a Medal at their Necks, upon which, on one side, was the Effigies of the King, (Philip II.) and on the other, two hands joyned to­gether, which held two Budgets, with divers little Porringers, and round about was written, Faithful to the King even to Beggary. Gab. Chappuys, Hist. of the Wars of Flanders. Gueux, or Beggars, which, as you know, was given at Brussels to the Authors of the Agreement, by the Count de Barlemont.

The Town-House is a great Gothick Building. We saw there, amongst other things, Chambers full of Bows, Arrows, Cross-Bows, Quivers, Bucklers, and other ancient Arms. I measured one of those great Cross-Bows which had need of Rests; The Bow was of Whale-Bone, and had twelve Foot of length, eight Inches broad, and four Inches thick. It is very plea­sant to behold Cologne, and the delicate Country about it, from the top of the Tower of this House.

The little part of the City, which is on the other side of the Rhine, is the Propriety of the Elector, and is the Quarter allotted to the Jews.

The Cathedral Church remains in a very imperfect State; it is great pity so fine a beginning should never attain its end. In the Year 1622. the three pretended Kings, who came to adore our Saviour, were brought from Milan into this Church,When Frede­rick Barba­rossa caused Milan to be where Fame attributes many Miracles to them. They sell for a peny a dozen little Billets, which have touched them, and com­municate their Virtue.

[Page 37]An extraordinary Drought having caused a Famine in Hungary (I know not posi­tively in what time it was) a great number of the People of that Country, came to supplicate the assistance of the three Kings, after they had in vain invoked the Saints of their Country and Neighbourhood; who had no sooner spoke the word, but it rained in great abundance. From that time a Procession of Hungarians comes every seventh Year to pay Homage to their Be­nefactors; and these People are treated and waited upon by the Magistrates for fifteen days, in a very fine House built on purpose for them.

I observed a hole three or four Foot wide, on the top of the Vaulted Roof of the Church, and almost over the Chapel, where are kept these Royal Reliques. There are these words written round this Overture, Anno 1404. 30.See To. II. Letter xxiii. Octob. ventus de nocte flat ingens grandem per tectum lapi­dem pellit. On the 30th. of October, in the Year 1404. a great Wind blew in the Night, and drove a great Stone through the Roof. This Stone lies on the Pavement near the Cha­pel. Our Guide told us, they call'd it, the Devil's Stone, because it is believed, the Devil threw it out of Malice to destroy the Chapel. I observ'd likewise in the same Church, over one of the doors, thirty six gilded Staves, about three foot long each; and this Distich is written underneath:

[Page 38] And in effect, the Elector is at this time in the thirty seventh Year of his Arch-Bi­shoprick. But I could not learn neither the Original, nor the Benefit of this Custom.

We saw, as we passed, the curious Church of the Jesuits, and from thence went to that of St. Ursula. You know, without doubt, the Legend of this Saint, and of her eleven thousand Virgins, who were Massacred with her by the Huns at Cologne, in the Year 238. Those who first wrote this Story, supposed that there was one Etherus, King of England, and Husband of Ursula, and one Pope Cyriack, his Con­temporary, Persons of whom no notice is taken in History. In the mean time, every one of the eleven thousand Virgins, have done eleven thousand Miracles, and fur­nished a great number of Reliques. The Body of Ursula lay for a long time con­founded amongst the rest; but they say it was at last distinguished by a Pigeon; who, for several days, came regularly at a set hour to her Tomb: And at present the Saint is laid near her Husband Etherus. The Church is filled with the Tombs of many of the Virgins, and you find always a multitude of Old-Women in it, repeating of Pater-nosters from Morning to Night. They say the Earth of this Church will not endure any other dead Corps; and to prove this, they there shew the Tomb of a Daughter of a certain Duke of Brabant, who, after they had forcibly Interred her there, raised up her self, and remained in [Page 39] the Air, so that they were fain to fix her with Iron, as she is now two or three Feet from the Earth, against one of the Pillars of the Church.

It is pleasant to see in a great Chapel, which is on the side of this same Church, the Bones of the Virgins, with which it is adorned and hung, after the manner which you see the Swords and Pistols ranged at White-Hall, in the Guard-Chamber. These Bones, except the Heads, have no Orna­ments, but to the Heads they have done particular Honours; for some of them are put up in cases of Silver, and others have coverings of Gold, there is none which have not at least their Caps of Cloath of Gold, or a Bonnet of Crimson-Velvet, wrought with Pearls and Jewels. Behold, Sir, what, together with the pretended three Kings, is the chief Object of the Devotion of Cologne, and from whence it comes to be called Cologne the Holy: and from hence also it is, that the Arms of this City are, Argent, eleven Flames Gules, with a Chief of the Second, charged with three Crowns Or. The eleven Flames are in Memorial of the eleven thousand Virgins, and the three Crowns re­present the three Kings.

In the Church of the Maccabees there is a Crucifix which wears a Peruke, which is very singular; but that which is marvellous and edifying is, that when the Hungarian Pilgrims come to Cologne, they do each of them cut off a lock of Hair from this Peruke, and yet it never diminishes.

[Page 40]I observ'd, at the entrance into the Church of the Twelve Apostles, a Picture, which represents a very rare Event; which never­theless might easily be received for Truth, if the end of the Story did not render it suspicious. The Wife of a Consul of Cologne, being Buried in the Year 1571. with a Ring of great Price, the Sexton, the Night following, opened the Tomb to steal the Ring; I leave you to judge if he were not frighted when he felt his hand caught hold of, and when the good Lady grasped him to get out of the Sepulchre, and yet he loosed himself and fled away, without further Conversation. The Person raised, unwrapped her self as well as she could, and went to knock at the door of her House; She called a Servant by his Name, and in few words told him the summ of her Adventure, that he might not let her Perish with Cold: But the Man thought her a Ghost, and all in a fright run to tell the thing to his Master. (So far may be true, now comes the Fable.) The Master, as incredulous as the Man, called him Fool, and said he would as soon be­lieve his Horses were in the Garret, and instantly a most dreadful noise was heard in the Garret; the Man went up thither, and found six Coach-Horses there, without counting the rest in the Stable. The Consul, amazed at so many Prodigies, was not able to speak; the Man was in an Extasie or Swound in the Garret, and the living deceas'd, quaking in her Shroud, [Page 41] was expecting to be let in: at last it came to pass that the door was opened, and they chafed and us'd her so well, that she reviv'd as if nothing had pass'd; and the next day they made Machines necessary to let down the Horses. And to make the truth of this appear, there is at this day to be seen in the Garret, some Wooden Horses, which are covered with the others Skins. And they shew in the Church of the Twelve Apostles, a great piece of Linen Cloath which this Woman Spun after her return to the World; in which she lived seven Years afterwards.

I have nothing further to tell you of Cologne, only that this is the Country where­in we first begun to find Vines; tho' Wine here is very dear in the Houses of Enter­tainment. And that there are yet remain­ing someLeskirken and Judaes. Families, who affirm they are issued from the Roman Race, and who pro­duce their Genealogies, from the first time this City was made a Colony of the Em­pire.

LETTER VI.

THE Ways from Cologne to Mentz are so bad at present, and the Chariot so unpleasant and uneasie, that we chose ra­ther to remount the Rhine, let the Passage be never so slow.

BONN.We quickly arriv'd at Bonn, which ap­peared to us a little dirty City; I could not learn that there was any thing in it to deserve our stay there. The Fortifications are neglected, and the Palace of the Elector of Cologne, who there makes his Residence, seems to be but a very indifferent House. We had in the Boat a Burgo-Master of Cologne, ANDER­NACH. and Keyser­waert have a right of Toll on the Rhine. who told me, as we passed by An­dernache that there are some Gentlemen in that little City who have particular Privi­ledges, and are called Free Knights. He also told me many Stories of a great House on the other side the Rhine, which is not Inhabited, and which he said was haunted with Spirits, the ordinary scandal of unin­habited Houses or Castles.

COBLENTZ. The most an­cient Arch-Bi­shoprick in all Germany, and the Residence of the Elector of Treves. The Chapter of Treves admit neither Princes nor Earls easily. The Canons are, as much as is possible, only Gentlemen; they must prove sixteen Descents of Nobility, both on the Father and Mother's side. Heiss. Coblentz is built upon a nook of Ground, which the Moselle makes when it falls into [Page 43] the Rhine. This City seemed to us very agreeable, and they told us it was very well Fortified on the Land side, but we saw only single Walls on that part which is watered by the Moselle and the Rhine. The Castle, which is on a rising Ground, on the other side of the River, is a very strong place, and wholly commands the City. They call this Castle Ehrenbreisten, EHREN­BREISTEN. which signifies the famous Rock, or the Rock of Honour: It is built on the Ruines of the Fort of Hermestein, of which there remains only that corner of the Rock on which the Windmil stands. There is always a good Garrison in this place, with store of Arms and Ammunition. The Palace of the Elector of Treves is at the foot of the Hill, under the Fortress, and on the Bank of the Rhine.

Over-against the Town of Caub, which belongs to the Elector Palatine, half a League from Baccharach, which appertains to him likewise, there is an old Castle called Pfaltz in the middle of the Rhine, from whence, as some say, the Pfaltzgravts, or, as we call them, the Palsgraves, or Counts Palatines, derive their Name.BACCHA­RACH. Baccharach is a very little City built on the side of a Hill, and famous for its excellent Wines. One of the Ministers of the place, with whom we Dined, pretended that Baccha­rach was derived from Bacchi Ara, or the Altar of Bacchus; and he told us there were four ancient Towns in the Neighbourhood, which were also Consecrated to Bacchus: Steegbach, which is on a Hillock, Scala Bacchi, [Page 44] the Ladder of Bacchus. Diebach, Digitus Bacchi, or the Finger of Bacchus. Handbach, or Mannersbach, Manus Bacchi, or the Hand of Bacchus: And Lorch, Laurea Bacchi, or the Bays of Bacchus.

As we parted from Baccharach, a furious Storm arose, which cast away a large Boat, and ours was not without some danger. We went ashore a little before we came to Rudisheim, where the bad Weather con­strained us to stay a while; and we passed by an old ruinous House, which they said belonged to that wicked Arch-Bishop of Mentz, Mentz was made an Arch-Bishoprick by Pope Zachary, Anno, 745. who was eaten by Rats. The Rhine makes there a little Island, in the midst of which is a square Tower, which they call the Tower of Rats: And it is commonly reported, that this Prelate, who was then the most wicked and cruel Man alive, fell sick in that House which I lately mentioned (some say it was in another a little further off, but that is nothing to the Story,) and that, by an extraordinary Judgment of God, he was environed with Rats, which could by no means be driven away. They add, that he caused himself to be carried into the Island, where he hoped he might have been freed from them, but the Rats multiplied, swam over the River and devoured him. An ingenious Man, whom I saw in this place, assured me, that he had read this Story in some old Chronicles of the Coun­try. He said he remembred, that the Arch-Bishop was there nam'd Renald, and that this happened in the Tenth Age. I [Page 45] would willingly give credit to this Story, but I fear however that there is some mi­stake in it. For I know that about this time there was a certain Priest, named Ar­nald, who fraudulently dispossessed the Arch-Bishop Henry; and that this Arnald was Massacred by the People, which may have given occasion to some confusion in these Histories. Another Person told me, that the Name of the Arch-Bishop was Hatton II. surnamed Bonosus; and that in a time of Famine, he caused a great number of poor People to be assembled in a Barn, where he caus'd them to be burnt, saying, These are the unprofitable Vermine, which are good for no­thing but to consume the Bread which should serve for the Sustenance of others. However,Pliny, upon the Testimony of Varro, relates that the Isle of Gyara, one of the Cyclades, was abandoned by the Inhabi­tants because of Rats. He adds, That a City of Spain, was over­thrown by Rabbets. One in Thessaly by Moles. One in France by Frogs. And another in Africk by Mice. this Story is generally believed here, though others look upon it as a Fable. Some will lightly and hastily swallow any Prodigy, and others may offend as much by too much incredulity. If the Holy Scripture describes us a Pharaoh, pestered with Lice and Frogs, and an Herod, devoured by Worms; why should we hastily condemn the like event for a Fable? More sur­prizing things have no doubt fallen out: And I remember I have read two such Hi­stories in the Fasciculus temporum. The words of the Author are very like these, Mures infiniti convenerant quemdam, potenter circum­vallantes cum in concivio, nec potuerunt abigi donec devoraretur. That is, A multitude of Mice compassed him about, strongly as­saulting him in a Banquet, nor could they [Page 46] be driven away till they had devoured him. This happen'd about the Year 1074. He adds, Idem cuidam Principi Poloniae contigit. The same thing hapned to a certainPoppiel II. Surnamed Sardanapa­lus, he, his Wife and Children, were eaten by Rats, Anno 823. Poppielus Principes Polonorum Patruos suos veneno per fraudem interimit, eósque insepultos projicit, sed ex cadaveribus mures enati sunt qui Poppielum & ambos ejus filios una cum uxore devorant. Chronicon de Pop. Garon places this event in the Year 830. And he adds, That the Rats eat the name of Hatton, which was in many places in the Tower of the Rhine. The History of Hatton is related at large by Trithemius in his Chronicles, and by Camerarius in his Meditations. Calvisius reports, that in 1013. a certain Soldier was eaten by Rats. See 1 Sam. ch. 6. ver. 4, 5. Prince of Poland.

From Bonn to Binghen, three Leagues be­low Mentz, the Rhine is almost always be­tween the Mountains; this Passage which it so happily met with, seems to be a par­ticular work of Providence. You would fansie it to be a Canal made on purpose for this River, cross a Country which natu­rally was inaccessible to it, for fear, that not being capable to continue its course, it should swell and overflow the Provinces, which now its Stream only waters: At the foot of the Mountains which thus shut it up, the whole Country is full of Vineyards; and there are to be seen, on its Banks, both to the right and left, a great number of little Cities and good Villages. Castles there are also very frequent, most of them built on ascents, and even on the points of the sharpest Rocks. I counted forty since my departure from Cologne.

[Page 47]I observed also in my way, a strange fantasticalness in the Habits of the Peasants, especially the Women. About Bonn and Rhindorfe they wore only on their Heads a little Cap of coloured Stuff, bordered with Galoon of another colour. Their Hair hangs in Tresses quite down their Backs. They make their Waste extreamly short, and have a broad Leather Girdle with which they girt themselves half a Foot below their Waste, which is compassed with a thick folded Rowl, and lifts up their Pet­ticoats so high, that they reach but little below their Knees.

The Rhine is very broad, all the way from Binghen to Mentz. MENTZ. At Mentz you go over it on a Bridge of Boats which hath no sup­porters. The first thing you meet with, when you come to this City from Cologne, is the Elector's Palace; it is of reddish Stone, and its Architecture hath a great number of Ornaments, after the German, though other­wise regular and magnificent enough.

The bad Weather hindred us from seeing the Arsenal, as well as the Citadel and o­ther Fortifications. But we were assured our loss was not great, there being nothing at all rare in any of them.

They told us, that in the middle of the Citadel there is a kind of Tower, com­monly call'd the Tomb of Drusus. Drusus Germanicus, Brother to Tiberius, died in Ger­many, to the great Grief, as you know, of the People and Army: But he died not on the Rhine. Besides, you may remember [Page 48] that his Body was carried to Rome to be burnt in the Field of Mars. It is true, that after Augustus had caused the Senate to give him the Surname of Germanicus, he also made Statues to be erected for him, with triumphal Arches, and other Monu­ments on the Banks of the Rhine: And perhaps this Tower or Mausoleum was one of his honorary Tombs, which the Anci­ents call'd [...].

The Ornaments in which the Electors cele­brate Mass are extraordinary Rich: And the Canopy under which the Host is carried, on certain occasions, is all covered with Pearls. I remember I have read in the Chronicles of the Abbey of Usberg, that they had former­ly in the Treasury of the Vestry, an hollow Emerald of the bigness and shape of half a large Melon. This Author said, that on some days they put Water into that Cup, with two or three little Fishes which swam about in it; and when the Cup was covered they shewed it to the People, and the mo­tion of the Fishes produced such an effect, as persuaded the silly People that the Stone was alive.

Every Elector bears the Arms of his own House, but he Quarters Gules, a Wheel Argent, which are the Arms of the Electo­rate. It is said, that the Original of these Arms came from theWilligese or Viligese of the Country of Brunswick. This Chapter is wholly composed of Gentle­men. There are 42, of which 24 are Capitularies. Two thirds of their Suffrages are required in the choice of an Elector. Heiss. The Ʋniversity was Founded by the Arch-Bishop Ditherus, Anno 1482. Calvis. first Elector, who [Page 49] was the Son of a Cart-wright. There are to be seen in this Church many magnificent Tombs of these Princes who commonly are buried there.

The Protestants may live at Mentz, but not exercise their Religion there. The City is indifferently large, but not much Peo­pled, and the University in no very good Condition. However, the situation makes amends, which is very pleasant, and the Country about it is excellently good.

You know that the Elector of Mentz, is the first of the Ecclesiasticks, and Dean of the Electoral College. I shall say nothing of his Fines or Revenue, nor of those of the other Princes; for in things of that nature, 'tis almost impossible to make a right Judgment.

LETTER VII.

AFter we had crossed the Rhine before Mentz, we entred into the Meine, which, by the Figure Parenthesis, is called Moganus, as well as Moenus; and from thence some think Moguntia took its name. We made use of the ordinary Boat of Francfort, [Page 50] and came thither the same day in very good time.

FRANC­FORT, an Imperial City. Eleven Roy­al Bastions.This City is larger, richer, fairer, and better Peopled than Mentz. Its Fortifica­tions seem tolerable, though they have their defects. It is seated in a flat Country, and hath no Suburbs. The Houses are built of that red kind of Stone, of which I have spoken before, or of Wood or Plaister covered with Slates. The Meine, which is a considerably large River, leaves it on the Right. A Stone Bridge, which is four hundred paces long, makes the Com­munication between Francfort and Saxen­hausen.

Francfort is an Imperial City, and hath a small Territory under its Government. The Senate are Lutherans, as also the greatest part of the Inhabitants. The Roman Ca­tholicks are in possession of the principal Church; in which the Ceremony of a­nointing the Emperour is performed. But they only carry the Host incognito, and make no Processions in publick. The Protestants, whom they call Cavinists, have the exercise of their Religion at Bochenheim, which is a small hour's Walk from thence, in the County of Hannau. They are obliged to Marry and Christen in the Lutheran Churches.

We took a viewIt was burn­ed in the Year 1460. with the Records of the City. Charlemain granted its freedom with very great Priviledges. in the Town-house, of the Chamber in which the Election of [Page 51] the Emperour is made, and where is kept one of the Originals of the Golden Bull: This Chamber hath nothing Magnificent; there are only old Tapistry Hangings, a great Table with a green Carpet, and great Elbow-Chairs of black Velvet for the Electors. On the side of this Chamber is the Hall, where certain Ceremonies are ob­served which succeed the Election; and when they are over, the Emperour descends from the Hall, and goes to the Church, where he is Crowned.

The Golden Bull is a Book of twenty four Leaves of Parchment, in Quarto, which are sewed together, and covered with ano­ther piece of Parchment, without any Or­nament. The Seal is fastned to it by a silken String of many Colours, and is co­vered with Gold, so as it resembles a Me­dal: It is two Inches and a half in breadth, and a large Line in thickness. Upon the Seal is the Emperour Charles IV. Seated and Crowned, holding a Scepter in his Right-hand, and the Globe in his Left. The Shield of the Empire is on his Right, and that of Bohemia on his Left. And a­bout it is written, Carolus quartus divinâ fa­vente clementiâ Romanorum Imperator semper Augustus, and on each side near the two Scutcheons, Et Bohemiae Rex. On the Re­verse there is a kind of a Gate of a Castle between two Towers, which appa­rently denotes Rome, this Verse being writ­ten about: ‘Roma Caput mundi regit orbis fraena rotundi.’ [Page 52] And upon the Gate between the two Towers, Roma aurea.

This Bull was given at Nuremberg, in the Year 1356. by the Emperour Charles IV. with the consent of all the States of the Empire. The design of the Institutors was, that this Edict should be perpetual and irre­revocable, yetParticularly in the Treaties of Westphalia. many Innovations have been made since. It describes particularly the form of the Election of the Emperour, orThe Empe­rour, and the King of the Romans, in the sence of the Bull, are but one Person. In it he is often called Head of the Faithful, and first Prince of the Christian World. The Bull is written in Latin. the King of the Romans, whom it fre­quently stiles the Temporal Head of the Christian World. It regulates many things that relate to the Electors, touching their Rank, their Assemblies, their Rights and Immunities, the Right of Succession to the Electorate, and the Manner after which every one of them is to perform his Functi­on in publick Ceremonies. It ordains these Princes to assemble once in the Year to settle the Affairs of the Empire. The E­lector of Saxony, in conjunction with the Elector Palatine, are declared Regents, after the Death of the Emperour. But things, as you know, having been changed in favour of the Duke of Bavaria, that Elector pretends to the Regency. 'Tis a question whether the Vicariat be affixed to the Electorate, in which the Duke of Ba­varia was invested, or if it remain to the House of the Counts Palatines.

Now, there is a King of the Romans, he is perpetual Vicar and Heir of the Empire. It was for this reason that Philip II. had only the Kingdom of Spain for his share, [Page 53] and that Ferdinand his Uncle, who in the Life of Charles V. was elected King of the Romans, came to be Emperour.

Francfort is the place appointed by the Bull, for the Election of the Emperour. Nevertheless, Henry II. was chosen at Mentz, and Henry III. at Aix la Chappelle; This is no lon­ger observed. some have been also Elected at Cologne, and others at Ausbourg and Ratishonne. It was also or­dained, that the Emperour should be first Crowned at Aix, which for a long time hath not been practised. Every Elector may haveOn the day of Electing the Emperour, there is a whole Oxe served in a Dish, roasted, larded, and stuffed with Wild Fowls and Venison. After the Feast the Oxe is left to the People. Borjou Dign. Temp. two hundred Men, as well for his Guard as his Attendance, during the time of the Election. And the Citizens of Francfort are to take care that no Stran­gers be found in their City at that time, upon pain of losing their Priviledges. This Bull contains many Regulations, which I shall not at present relate.

The famous Treacle of Francfort is made there by Doctor Peters, who is a skilful Apothecary, and in other respects a very curious Person. There are more than an hundred several Drugs that enter this Com­position, which are to be seen ranged in Pyramids, on a long Table. The Doctor hath many Antiquities, and other Rarities, amongst which he highly values a Stone taken out of a humane Body, which is as big as ones head, and cost him 1600 Crowns.

There are in this place a great number of Jews, but they are as beggarly as those of Amsterdam are rich. They wear their Beards piqued, and have black Cloaks, with [Page 54] puffed Ruffs, they go from Tavern to Ta­vern, to sell any thing to Strangers: but be­ing reputed Thieves you must take heed of 'em. Moreover here is a Task imposed on them, to run and fetch Water when any Fire happens in the City.

Of Francfort, see further, p. 117.You know, the Fairs of Francfort contri­bute much to the Fame and Riches of that City. There are Three in a Year, which bring a considerable Trade to it.

The University was founded in the Year 1506, by Joachim and Albert of Branden­burgh.

LETTER VIII.

AS we took Coach at Francfort to pro­ceed on our Journey, we observed the Coachman to put a little Salt upon each of his Horses, with certain little Ceremo­nies, which made part of the Mystery; and this, as he told us, was to bring us good Luck, and to preserve us from Charms and Witchcraft, during our Voyage.

We passed the Rhine at Gernsheim, and af­ter we had gone through Woods that were drowned, by the overflowing of that Ri­ver, (which made the ways both dangerous and difficult) we found them very good be­tween [Page 55] the End of this Wood, and the Ci­ty of Worms, which is but two little Leagues.WORMS, an Imperial Ci­ty. This City is about three or four hundred Paces, on the left side of the Rhine, in an excellent Country, and most pleasant Situ­ation. It is girt about with a double Wall, without any Garrison, or even Fortification that is worth Observation.Worms was formerly an Arch Bishop­rick But Pope Zachary remo­ved the See to Mentz, to pu­nish the Arch-bishop Gervil­lian, who, con­trary to his Faith, killed a Man, whom he invited out of the Camp of the Saxons, his Enemies, to have a familiar conference with him. Heiss. This is a poor Bishoprick. The Bishop hath a great Power there, though it be a free and Imperial City. It is near as large as Francfort, but poor, melancholy and ill peo­pled. They shewed me a House that was lately sold for a thousand Crowns, which had been Lett formerly for a thousand Crowns per Annum. There are many void places in this City, in which they have planted so many Vines, that they yield eve­ry Year fifteen hundred Foudres of Wine: the Fouder is a Cask which holds about two hundred and fifty English Gallons. They highly prize this Wine, and they have a Pro­verb, That it is sweeter than the Virgins Milk. The City presents it to Persons of Quality, as they pass by, as also Fish and Oats. The Fish is to shew the Right of Fishing, which they have on the Rhine; but what the Oats signifie I know not: it cannot be to represent their Territory, because they have none. The Lutherans have here a Church; and, besides that, they preach by turns with the Roman Catholicks, in that of the Dominicans; the rest belong to the Roman Catholicks, who carry not the Host publickly, nor make any Procession, except the Day after Easter. The Prote­stants, [Page 56] whom I will still call Calvinists to distinguish them from the Lutherans, have their Church at Newhawsel in the Palati­nate, about half a League from the City; the Lutherans are not shy sometimes to Chri­sten their Children there, which is directly opposite to the Practice of the Lutherans at Francfort.

They say, that a Lord of the House of Alberg, having brought a great many Jews from Palestine, sold Thirty of them for a Piece of Silver, at the City of Worms: where they were for a long time treated as Slaves, before they could obtain the Liberty which they at present enjoy in common with the other Inhabitants.

The Church of St. Paul seems to be an ancient Building, but I believe that of St. John is the older. This last is built with very great square Stones, and its Figure is quite irregular. The Walls are above twelve Foot thick, the Windows are narrow, and there are Galleries all round the outside of the Building just under the Roof. There is but little Appearance that this was built for a Church: the Cathedral is a long Structure of a considerable Height, with a Tower at each of the four Corners; the whole Build­ing is very massive, and embellished with Gothick Ornaments. They shewed us a cer­tain Animal, over one of the Doors of this Church, of which the People tell a hun­dred Stories. This Animal is as big as an Ass, and hath four Heads; one Head of a Man, one of an Oxe, one of an Eagle, [Page 57] and one of a Lion: it lifts up the two first, and hangs down the other two. The right Foot before is a Man's, the left an Oxe's, the two hinder Feet are of an Eagle and a Lion: and a Woman sits upon the Beast. If I durst penetrate into this Mystery, I think it might be conjectured, that this Hie­roglyphick is a Chimera composed of the four Animals in the Vision of Ezekiel, and that the Woman represents the Gospel.

I took notice of a Picture, over the Al­tar of one of the Chapels of this Church, in which the Virgin is represented receiving Christ as he descends from the Cross, while several Angels carry the Instruments of the Crucifixion to Heaven. But either the Pain­ter has forgot, or else the Angels have since brought back all these Reliques.

There is another very curious Picture, at the Entrance of the Church of St. Martin, over a moveable Altar. This Picture is about five Foot Square. God the Father is on the Top of one Corner, from whence he seems to speak to the Virgin Mary, who is on her knees in the midst of the Picture: she holds the little Infant Jesus by the Feet, and puts his Head into the Hopper of a Mill: the twelve Apostles turn the Mill by a Wheel, with their Hands, and they are assisted by these four Beasts of Ezekiel, which we just spoke of, who work on the other side. Not far off the Pope kneels to receive the Hosts, which fall from the Mill ready made into a Cup of Gold. He presents one to a Car­dinal, [Page 58] the Cardinal gives it to a Bishop, the Bishop to a Priest, and the Priest to the People.

There are in the City two publick Hou­ses; one of which is called the Burgher's House, in which the Senate assembles twice every Week, about the Affairs of the State: the other is for the Magistracy, and is the Place where common Causes are pleaded. It was in the first that Luther made his Ap­pearance on an occasion known to all the World. They tell us, that this Doctor, ha­ving spoke with much eagerness, and being besides heated by the fire which was before him, some body brought him a Glass of Wine, which he receiv'd; but such was his ve­hemence, that he forgot to drink, and with­out thinking of it, set it on a Bench which was by his side: they add, that the Glass im­mediately after broke without any Person's touching it, and it passed for current that the Wine was poisoned. I will make no Gloss upon this Story. But afterwards the Bench on which he set the Glass was bro­ken, and some Pieces were taken out of it, which some zealous Lutherans keep in memo­ry of their Master.

We went also to see another House, which they call the Mint; in which, among other things, I observed aThese two Verses are written on the Top of the Leaf. Mira fides, pedibus Juvenis facit omnia recta, Cui pariens mater brachia nulla dedit. Leaf of Parch­ment, in a square Frame, upon which there [Page 59] are twelve sorts of Hands written, very fair­ly, with many Miniatures and Draughts boldly traced with a Pen. It was written by one Thomas Schuveiker, who was born without Arms, and perform'd this with his Feet. They also shew another little round piece of Vellum, about the bigness of a Guiney, upon which the Lord's-Prayer, without abbreviation, is written. But this is no extraordinary thing. I know aMaximin Mossileni. Man who wrote the same Prayer six times in the same compass, more distinctly. This House hath a long Portico, between the Arches of which hang great Bones and Horns. They say the Bones are the Bones of Giants, and the Horns the Horns of the Oxen which drew the Stones with which the Cathedral is built. And are not these very curious and venerable Pieces? The outside of the House is full of several Pictures, amongst which there are many of Armed Giants, which in the Inscription below are called Vangiones. We know very well that the People who formerly inhabited this part of the Rhine, were called Vangiones, as we find in Tacitus, and others. But I cannot tell the reason, why they would have these Vangiones to be Giants. Nevertheless, these great Men there make a great noise at Worms, they tell a thousand Stories of them, and when they have done, every one is at liberty to say what he pleases of them.

We only passed by Frankendal, FRANKEN­DAL. the For­tifications of which are pretty good, and would be better if they were lined; but [Page 60] they are forced to slope them too much, be­cause the too soft and ill cemented Earth could not otherwise be supported. This defect is yet apparently greater in the For­tifications of Manheim. MANHEIM. These two little places belong to the Elector Palatine. 'Tis but two hours Travel from one to the other. The situation of Manheim is its greatest Strength: For it is not commanded by any rising Ground, and is almost surrounded by the Neckar and the Rhine. There is a good Garison in the Citadel, but the greatest Rarity that I found in it is the Temple of Concord. The Elector Charles Louis, Fa­ther of Charles the Last, Deceased, caused this Church to be built, to serve in common for the Protestants, both Calvinists and Lu­therans. But this Prince being of a pleasant Humour, and not very scrupulous about Religion, the first day they Preach'd in this Church, permitted a Curate of the Neigh­bourhood to Preach there also; who made rather an Encomium of the Prince, than a Sermon. But they pretended not then that this was to be continued by course, and after that time the Lutherans, with the other Reformists, solely made use of the Church. But in fine, this present Elector being a Romanists, hath thought fit to joyn those of his Communion with the others. And be­sides his Will, which is most strong and pre­valent, he pretends this reason, that it is not contrary to the Will of the Founder, which he proves from the Harangue of the Curate. Therefore now the three Mini­sters [Page 61] of the three Religions, perform each in their turn the Service in the Church of Concord. They begin and end successively, in such manner as in three successive Sun­days, each of the three Ministers hath the priviledge to begin first, as also to be se­cond or third. The Church is not great, but is very fine. The Pulpit is in common, when the Roman Catholicks have ended Mass, they draw the Curtain, and hide the Al­tar.

About forty Years ago, Manheim was but a little Village, Frederick, Father of Charles Louis, caused it to be fortified, and named it Fredericksburg; at the same time this City was built, which resum'd the name of Manheim, and was fortified also. All the Streets are in straight Lines, and in some are Trees planted, as in Holland. Manheim is a very pretty place. Every day at five of the Clock in the Morning, at Noon and at six in the Evening, there are hired Musicians, who sing part of a Psalm on the Tower of the Town-house. They have such loud Instruments that they are heard all over the Town. This is done in most places of the Palatinate.

When we left Manheim, after we had passed the Neckar, over a Bridge of Boats, we traversed a very fertile Plain, which continued for three hours, to the foot of the Mountains of Heidelberg. These Moun­tains make a long ridge as if they would hinder ones going further: Yet there we met with an opening, through which the [Page 62] Neckar goes out. This River is passed over on a cover'd Bridge, and you find the City of Heidelberg on the other side, which lies high and low amongst the Trees and Rocks. It is no very fine City, and I know not by what Spirit of Contradiction, they have built it almost all of Wood, whereas they might have had good Stone in abun­dance. The Prince's Palace is upon an ascent, it consists of many Pieces begun and not finished.This City was Storm'd, and utterly laid waste by the French, May 22. 1693. The whole is built of hewn Stone, and there are some parts of this Structure of fine Architecture. They have made fine Gardens amongst the Rocks, but for all the care they have taken to adorn the place, it is still Melancholy and Irregular, if we take all together; and I think it would be praise enough, to call this House a magnificent Hermitage. It being not long since the Dutchess of Orleance, Sister to the last Elector, and Inheritrix of some part of his Goods, caused the Furniture of this House to be taken away, for we found it very naked. All things were sold even to the Wine of the famous Tun, and apparent­ly they had taken that away,The Colossus of Rhodes, saith Mr. Patin, did not hold more Water between its Thighs, than this great Tun Wine in its Intrails. It is, adds he, 31 foot long, and 21 high. had not the Toy been too troublesome. They go up to it by a pair of Stairs of fifty Steps, and above there is a Platform of twenty Foot long, circl'd with a Balcony round about. The Arms of the Elector are placed in the finest part of the Tun. Bacchus in the largest Size, with I know not how many Satyrs, and other Drunkards of that kind, are there also. The Vines, the Grapes, the [Page] [Page] [Page 63] Glasses, and the Leather-Jacks are there to be seen, and make part of its Ornaments in basso releivo. And there are likewise many Jests and Apothegms in High-Dutch, written on this rich Subject.

The misfortunes of the War, of which this Country hath been so often the Stage, have reduced it to a very poor condition, though it be naturally very good. All Re­ligions are tolerated; but the Magistrates are all Protestants. In the great Church of this City, are to be seen many Magnificent Tombs of the Counts Palatines: That of Robert, King of the Romans, and Founder of the University of Heidelberg, is in the Choir of this same Church.

You are not ignorant of the Loss which Heidelberg, sustained in the Year 1622. when its famous Library was transported to the Vatican.

LETTER IX.

TWO good Hours on this side Heidel­berg, we past through whole Forests of Firr-trees, and afterwards met with many more. They set fire to them, cut them down and pluck them up as much as they can; but the Nature of the Soil produces them so fast, that they cannot root them out. All this Country is very poor, and Money is so scarce, that about Wiseloc [...] and Sintzheim, a Loaf of Wheaten Bread, weighing eight Pounds, cost but Two-pence. We were four days coming hither from Hei­delberg, and we scarce saw any thing but Firr-trees all the way; I believe there are not more in Carolina: there are I know not how many little Towns, which deserve not to be mentioned.

WINSHEIM, an Imperial Ci­ty. WIMPHEN, an Imperial City. PALEM­BERG. Winsheim is the best of them, and is a Free City as well as Wimphen. All the Inhabi­tants of both are Lutherans. I fansie, a more pleasant Assembly was never seen than that of the Burgo-Masters of the little City of Palemberg. These Sparks were in the same Tavern where we eat, which is the place where they ordinarily meet, when they have any important Affair, to debate; ima­gine you see a dozen or fifteen Peasants [Page 65] with pointed high-crowned Hats loaden with green and yellow Ribbon, with red or blue Wastcoats, and Ruffs or Cravats of black Taffeta: their Hair cut round close below their Ears, and their Beards af­ter the Mode of the Capouchins. The whole Club is tipsie, their Elbows on the Table, every Man with a Glass in his hand, drink­ing without intermission, splitting of Cau­ses, and every one striving to outbawl his Fel­low; their Gestures and Postures are much more diverting, but such as cannot be ex­pressed. In the mean time, it is not at all strange that they should love Drink so much in this Country, since they can have four great Pots of Wine for a Peny; for they know not what a small Measure means. If a Traveller demand a Cup of Wine as he goes by, they bring him a Jack enough to make ten Men drunk.

The Tabacco and the Hops supply the place of Vines, when you approach this Place, and the mountainous Country be­gins to grow plain and lower; so that you may see the great and fair City of Nurem­berg at a good distance.NUREM­BERG, an Imperial City. Before we came at it, we often found our selves on the Banks of the little River of Pegnitz, which runs from it, but serves only to turn the Mills. It might without any difficulty be made navigable, and the Profit that would result from such an Undertaking would quickly recompense the Charge.

But this defect doth not hinder Nurem­berg from being a City of great Trade, very [Page 66] rich and well peopled. It is said to be twice greater than Francfort; and it hath seven other Cities in its Territory, with four hundred and eighty Boroughs and Villages. Its Fortifications are of little esteem in re­spect of those that are now in use: but it enjoys a profound Peace: and being in the Heart of Germany, its Neighbours preserve it while they defend themselves. Should the Emperour be Master of Nuremberg, as he is of his hereditary Countries, it would not be very advantageous to him: for at the bottom, as free as these little States are, they are nevertheless Slaves to the Empe­rour, being, at the same time, Fiefs of the Empire; they are made to contribute Men, Arms, and Money on occasion: and there are a thousand ways found to vex them, if they perform not the things required of them.

It hath 6 Gates, 228 principal streets publick Foun­tains, and 118 Wells, Gal. Gualdo. Nuremberg is a very fair City, though the Structure of its Buildings is somewhat Go­thic, and not at all agreeable to the true Rule of Architecture. The Houses are ge­nerally great, handsome and strongly built. Some are covered with Pictures on the out­sides, and almost all the rest are of very fine hewen Stone. There are many Foun­tains of Brass in sundry places of the City: we saw a very magnificent one, which is yet at the Artificers house, on which there are Brass Statues to the Value of Seventy thousand Crowns, besides other Ornaments. The Streets are broad, clean, and well pa­ved, but it is Pity they are not more strait. [Page 67] The Tradition of the Country will have Nuremberg to be built by Nero, and there is one of the Towers of the Castle which is called the Tower of Nero, but this is but a poor Argument; I rather think that Nori­berga, called also in Latine Mons Noricorum, was derived from Noricum, the old Name of the Country, and the word Berg, which in high Dutch signifies a Mountain.

The Castle is on a high Rock, though the rest of the City be flat enough. The Form of the Castle is wholly irregular, be­cause they have been forced to make it agreeable to the Mass of the mishapen and unequal Rock. They assur'd us that the Well in it was sixteen hundred Foot deep, but none of us would believe them; they also told us that the Chain of the Bucket weighs three thousand Pounds. We saw in one of the Halls of this Castle, four Corinthian Pillars, about fifteen Foot high; which, they say, the Devil brought from Rome, upon a Challenge which a Monk made him. The Story would be too tedious to relate at length. They tell another of a famous Conjurer of the Country, who leap'd on horseback over the Castle Ditches, and shew the Print of the Horses Shoes on the Stones of the Parapet.

The Ornaments which are used, at the Anointing of the Emperour, are kept in the Church of the Hospital.

The Diadem or the Crown, called also theThis is the Crown of Char­lemain, it weighs fourteen pounds. Infula, is of Gold, and covered almost all over with precious Stones. It is not clo­sed [Page 68] as the Imperial Crowns which they or­dinarily paint to us. Suppose that instead of the Fleurets on Ducal Coronets, there are the Plates rounded on the top, which are joined by the sides, and make the Com­pass of the Bonnet. There are seven of them, and that before is the most richly adorned. There is a Cross on the top of all, and a Semicircle supported between the two head Plates behind, which is rais'd a­bove the Bonnet, and joined to the top of the Cross. The Sceptre and Globe are of Gold, and they say that the Sword was brought by an Angel from Heaven. The Robe of Charlemain is of Violet Colour, embroidered with Pearls; the Imperial Cloak is edg'd with Pearls, and strew'd with Eagles of Gold, and a great number of Jewels: there are likewise the Cope, the Stole,Embroider'd with Stones. the Breeches, the Stockins and thecover'd with Plates of Gold. Buskins. They also keep many Reliques in this Church; and amongst others, the Iron Head of blessed St. Longin's Lance. They are not ignorant that the pretended Head of this Lance is to be seen in above ten other places of the World; but, say they, theirsLancea Do­mini reperta est in Antio­chia à quidam rustico cui be­atus Andreas & locum os­tendit. Qui­dam cum ea totum exerci­tum letificavit, W. Roolwink. came from Antioch; it was St. An­drew who found it; one Man with it dis­comfited a whole Army: it was the thing of the World which Charlemain loved most. The other Lances are Counterfeits, and this is the true one: they make much of it as a precious Memorial, if they do not worship it as a Relique.

[Page 69]Their Lance puts me in mind of their Arsenal, which is one of the most renow­ned in Germany. In the Year 1453, Maho­met II. besie­ged Constanti­nople, and bat­tered it with many Pieces of Cannon of Four hundred pound Ball, there was one amongst the rest so heavy, that there were twenty Yoke of Oxen to draw it. Calvisius. There are two great Halls in it, each of two hundred and fifty paces long, and well replenished with Arms. We counted three hundred Pieces of Cannon; but, to speak truth, the greatest part of the other Arms savour of Antiquity; Mus­quets and Harquebuses, Casks and Cuiras­ses in great Number: fine Hangings for Arsenals, and this is all. There are many of those great Cannons of a monstrous Bore, which they call Mermaids and Basilisks; and the biggest of these Pieces carries a three hundred pound Ball.

We also saw the Library; it is in a Cloy­ster which formerly belonged to the Domi­nicans, and contains, as they tell you, twen­ty thousand Volumes. This was collected out of the Ruines of many Convents, in the Time of the Reformation. The most ancient Manuscript is of nine hundred Years; it is a Copy of the Gospels with the Prayers and Hymns formerly used in the Greek Church. The Character is very different from that now in use.It is a Treatise of Predestina­tion. I observed a Book which was printed at Spire, in the Year 1446. but there might be an Errour in the Cyphers, for they shewed us another of the Impression of Faustus at Mentz, in 1459. at the End whereof there is an Ad­vertisement, by which it is said, That this Book was not written by the Hand, but was printed by an admirable Secret newly invented. 'Tis probable that this was the first Impressi­on [Page 70] which was made at Mentz: and if it be so, there is no ground to suppose that another Book was printed at Spire, thirteen Years before: nor had Faustus any reason to boast so much of his new Secret. I have heard that there is another Impression of Duran­dus's Officiale at Basil, printed by Faustus in the same Year 1549.

They keep in this Library many Rarities, and curious Antiquities, but they are not comparable to those that are in the Cabinet of Mr. Viati. We saw it in a great Chamber quite fill'd with divers Arms of all Coun­tries, all Uses, and all Fashions. It is scarce to be conceived how a single Man, and he a private Person, who hath not the Means of a Prince or a very great Lord, could heap together so many things; for the Number is very great, and, I believe, brought from all the four Quarters of the World. He shew­ed us the Experiment of a Wind-Gun, which is a very pretty, but a most destru­ctive Invention, because with this Engine great Mischiefs may be done a far off, and without any Noise. From this Chamber you may go into another, where there are rare Pictures, Medals, curious Works anci­ent and modern, Idols, Shells, Plants, Mi­nerals, and other natural Productions.

The Town-House is very great, and has a very beautiful and well-proportion'd Front, but it wants a Court before it. When we went from thence, our Friends brought us to the City Cellar, which is two hundred and fifty Paces long, and contains, as they [Page 71] tell us, Twenty thousand Aums of Wine, that is to say, Twenty thousand middle­siz'd Tuns. We must allow it to be a very fair Cellar: but the truth is, such Peo­ple as we, know not how to enjoy all the Pleasures of it.

The Germans are, you know,Germanorum vivere bibere est. strange Drinkers; but there are no People in the World more obliging, more civil, or more officious, and yet they have terrible Cu­stoms as to the Point of Drinking. Every thing is done there by drinking, and they drink in all they do. There is not time given to speak three Words in a Visit, but presently comes the Collation, or at least some large Jacks of Wine, with a Plate full of Crusts of Bread hash'd with Pepper and Salt, a fatal Preparative for puny Topers. But before we proceed I must give you an account of those sacred and inviolable Laws that are afterwards to be observ'd. Every Draught must be a Health, and assoon as you have emptied your Glass, you must present it full to him whose Health you drunk. You must never refuse the Glass which is presented, and you must drink it off to the last drop. Do but re­flect a little on these Customs, and see how it is possible to leave off drinking: And in­deed they never make an end,The Duke of Rohan sai h in his Voyage, that the Germans have succeeded better than all the Mathematicians of the World in finding out the perpetual Motion, by the continual Agitation of their Cups. but ca­rouse in a perpetual Round: to drink in Germany is to drink eternally. Pardon my Digression, and judge of our troublesome [Page 72] Entertainment in the Cellar. You must do penance there for some time, and at last hide your self behind the Casks, steal away and make your escape.

You must further know, that the Glasses are as much respected in this Country as the Wine is beloved. They place them all en Parade. The greatest part of the Cham­bers are wainscotted, even to two thirds of the Walls, and the Glasses are ranged all about, upon the Cornish of the Wain­scot, like Pipes of Organs. They begin with the Little, and end with the Great ones; and these Great ones are always us'd, and must be empty'd at a draught, when there is any Health of Importance. At going out of the Cellar we went to Consort, where we hoped we should do nothing but sing, but the Bread, the Pepper, the Salt, and the Wine followed in such a­bundance, that an Air was no sooner finish­ed, but the whole Company rose up to drink.

We saw yesterday in the Evening some part of the Celebration of a Wedding. The future Husband accompanied with a long Train of his Relations came first to the Church. He marched on foot from a house which was not two hundred Paces distant, and to which he came in a Coach. His Bride, who was in the same place, fol­lowed a while after, being also attended by a great Number of her Friends. Both of them being got into the Church, the Bridegroom sits with his Company on one side, and the Bride on the other, directly [Page] [Page]

[Page] [Page 73] opposite to him; over each of their Heads [...]gainst the Wall was a Figure of Death. They both approach'd to the Minister, who attended them in the midst of the Choir: [...]nd after he had performed his Office, four or five Trumpets, which were on the Top of the Steeple, sounded a great many Levets, and the new-married Couple returned in the manner they came thither.

The Husband was in Black Cloaths, with a Cloak over-laid with Lace, a great Ruff, and a little Crown of Gold Plate-Lace a­bove his Peruke. But the Wife's Dress will be a little more difficult to describe. The best Account I can give you of it, is to tell you, That in framing to your self an Idea of her Head-Tire, you must fansie a Mixture of Plate-Wire gilded, like a Bob-Peruke, half a Foot higher than her Fore­head, and very much frizzed and swelled out on the Sides. This was ordered after such a manner, that in all the Thickness of this Bush there was no more space or di­stance between the Threads, than was suffi­cient to fasten to them an infinite Number of little Plates of Gold, round, polished and shining, which hung both within and without, and waved with the least Motion. Her Habit was Black, with long Skirts re­sembling the Hongrelines which were not ve­ry long since used in France. The Body of this little Cassock, which was cut very short, had a Gold Lace over all the Seams. The Skirts were full of little close Knots of black Sattin Ribbon, and the [Page 74] streight Cuffs fell just on the Fist. Over this she had a Neck-band of Fine Antique Lace, cut before like a Man's Band, and ending in a Point behind, which reached down to the middle of the Back. She had besides a great Gold Chain on her Shoulders, just like the Collar of some Order, and such another Chain for her Girdle. Her Pet­ticoat was short enough, and adorn'd below with Gold Fringe and Black Bone-Lace. We had the Pleasure to see this Fair one dance with a Senatour in a great Ruff; and I believe at Japan there could not be found Customs more different from ours, than those which we observed at this Feast. I should never make an End if I should un­dertake to describe all the other Habits. But, as fantastical as all these Dresses might seem at first view, one might be easily accustom'd to them, and every Habit appears hand­som and becoming, when the Persons that wear them are of themselves beautiful and agreeable.

There are not more industrious People in the World than the Artists of Nuremberg; some attribute to them the invention ofSome say that a Monk called Ber­thold Schwartz was the inventor. Others believe that it was one named Bertrand the Black of Chioggia. But Tavernier, and many other Travellers, pretend that this Invention came from China, as well as that of Printing. Luke de la Porta, is of the same Opinion. He adds, that the Augustins brought the use of both of them into Europe. Fire-Arms, as well as that of Cannon-Powder. Others affirm that this Powder was invented at Chioggia, in the State of Ve­nice; and there are some who pretend that it came from Denmark. All Europe is fill'd [Page 75] with the little Curiosities of Nuremberg. There are some of Wood, of Ivory, of A­labaster, and even of Paper and Starch. Their Houses are large and neat, and I be­lieve there is not a Ceiling in all the City, which is not accompanied with an under­setting of very fine Joyner's-Work. I can­not express the Particular Kindness they have for Horns; for all their Houses are full of them. They are every where in­stead of Pictures, and other curious things. You often see in the finest Chamber, a Stag's, or Bull's Head, with a magnificent Pair of Horns hanging on the Ceiling, without any other Design but for Orna­ment.

We were but poorly treated on all the Road from Heidelberg, and Straw was com­monly our Bed. But we made our selves amends at Nuremberg, where the Houses of Entertainment have very good Accommo­dations. They serv'd us every Day with late Fruits, which I never saw any where else. We are here at the end of November, and commonly eat very good Fish.

St. Sebald is the principal Church where they show a Wooden Crucifix which passeth for a Master-piece. The Church of St. Laurence, is the biggest of all. These are both Gothick, but the last hath Eight Doors, which is look d upon as a singularity. The great Church-yard is worth the seeing: There are in it above Three Thousand Tombs with Epitaphs, and Coats of Arms wrought in Brass. No Jews are suffer'd to [Page 76] live in the City, because they formerly Poy­soned the Fountains. They reside in a Vil­lage not far off, and may, for a small piece of Money,The Author of the State of the Empire re­lates, that the Burghers of Nuremberg have a singular and extraordi­nary Privi­ledge to drown their Children. come into the City, provided they depart the same day. The Roman Ca­tholicks are but few in number, and they have but half a Church, where they per­form their Service after the Lutherans are gone out. Those who are called Calvinists, go a League from the City into the Mar­quisate of Onspach, and their Children are Baptized by the Lutherans, as at Francfort.

We are preparing for our departure to morrow Morning, to continue our way to Ausbourg. I will also continue to write to you from thence, and will omit no oppor­tunity to show how much I am,

LETTER X.

INGOL­STADT.BEtween Nuremberg and Ingolstadt, the Ways are very bad and full of Forests; but when you come near this City, you find a Champion Country, excellently well till'd. Ingoldstadt is seated on the Danube, in the Dutchy of Bavaria, of which it is the [Page 77] strongest place. It is indifferently large. The most part of the Houses are painted or whited without. The Streets are broad, straight, and well pav'd: And the whole City seemed pleasant enough, though it be poor and ill Peopled. They boast much of the Arsenal, but you must be put to trouble to obtain liberty to see it, so that we would not take the pains. I know very well that these inaccessible Arsenals are com­monly the worst provided for; if they were well filled and furnished, they would make a publick Show of them, rather than hide them. But they excuse themselves upon some secret Reasons, when they have no­thing to show but Cross-Bows and rusty Firelocks. Nothing is more easily obtain'd, than the sight of the Arsenals of France, and it is as true, that nothing is finer and in better order.

I observ'd at Ingolstadt, as in most of the other Cities of Germany, that every where near the Fountains there are Casks of Wood or Brass, mounted on little Car­riages with four Wheels, which serve to carry Water when any Fire happens. And this is very wisely contriv'd; But they have another Custom throughout all this Coun­try, which we thought much more trouble­some than useful. These are certain Singers in the Night, who trot about every hour: They gave notice to beware of Fire, and afterwards exhort us to sleep quietly, with­out considering that their horrid Musick keeps all the City awake.

[Page 78] NEW­BOURG.We came from Ingolstadt to Newbourg, which is a very little City, and without Fortifications. It stands on the right Bank of the Danube, which is grown broad and rapid, tho' at this place, it be very far di­stant from its main strength. We past it over a Bridge to go up into the City, at our entry we had a view of the Castle, which is seated on a Rock. Though the outsides are with­out Ornaments, yet they make a handsome appearance. Within there are great Ap­partments, even with the Ground, which are very convenient. But the Elector Pa­latine, to whom this Dutchy of Newbourg belongs, was constrain'd to send all the Furniture of this Castle to that of Heidel­berg, this last being stripp'd, as I have al­ready told you: There remains only one Cabinet, which is full of rare Pictures and other Curiosities, which we had not time to examine particularly. I remember to have observed a round piece of very hard Stone, which weighs four pound, and was found in the Body of a Horse: I believe we might justly call this Stone a kind of Bezoar, since according to the report of Tavernier, the Bezoar is found in the Paunches of Cows and Apes, as well as in those of Goats.

The Church of the Jesuits is the fairest in the City, but there is a pleasant thing to be seen in that of St. Peter, Mark d'Aviano, the Capouchin, famous for the Miracles which are attributed to him, was at Newbourg, about five Years since. As he went into [Page 79] St. Peter's Church, he perceiv'd in a corner an old Nostradame of Wood, which was all mangl'd, and covered over with Dust. The zealous Father could not without Grief be­hold our Lady in so unbecoming a condi­tion. He prostrated himself before her, and began to thump his Breast, and to break out into Lamentations. As he was in the midst of his Groans, he suddenly cry'd out. A Miracle! and protested that the good Lady had mov'd her Eyes, and look'd on him. There were then many old Women in the Church, who ran to­gether at the cries of the Capouchin, and with joy embraced the occasion that they were able to say, that they had been witnesses to a Miracle: There was no need of many Arguments to convince them, for they all cried out with the Capouchin, that our Lady had look'd upon him: Immediately he went out with them, and fill'd all the City with the noise of the pretended Miracle. He was supported by the great ones, and after certain Preambles, which 'tis needless to relate, they went to St. Peter's in Pro­cession: They cleaned the Statue, took the Sacrament off the great Altar which was dedicated to it, dress'd our Lady in a splendid Habit, and plac'd her on that Al­tar, where she works Miracles by Millions. The Princes and the People load her with Presents, and People come from all parts in Pilgrimage to her.

[Page 80] AUSBOURG, an Imperial City. Galeazzo Gualdo Pr. pretends that it was built presently after the Deluge.The whole Country is very agreeable and extraordinarily good, between Newbourg and Ausbourg, except when you draw near to this last City, where the Lands are bog­gy and barren. Those of Ausbourg pretend that their City is the fairest of all Germany; they say also that it is greater than Nu­remberg, but confess that it is not so well Peopled. If the Streets be broader and straiter, it is certain, that generally the Houses are not so fine; they are commonly plaster'd and whited without, or adorn'd with Pictures, I saw but very few of hewn Stone. All the floors of the Chambers are pav'd with a certain yellowish Marble which comes from Tirol; and the Ceilings are either of Joyners-work, with Compartiments, or of a certain Cement, which polishes very well, and is very durable. But there is one great Irregularity in all their manner of Building. The greatest part of their Chambers are form'd into Figures, which have no name, and are also spoiled by the ill placing of the Stairs, which take away great Corners of them.

Ausbourg is the Capital City of Suabia. You know Augustus sent a Colony thither, after he had much enlarg'd and embellish'd it: It was called, Augusta Vindelicorum, to distinguish it from Augusta Treverorum, Au­gusta Taurinorum, and other Cities which likewise bore the name of Augusta. I ob­served somewhere among the Paintings of the Houses, the Anagram of Augusta Vin­delicorum, which is Orta Deâ vulgum vincis. The People of this Country were call'd [Page 81] Vindelici, because they Inhabited about the Rivers ofPergis ad Augustam quam Vindo, Licús; (que) fluentat. Respicit & latè fluvios Vindón (que) Licúm (que)Miscentes undas, & nomina littoris, undeAntiquam gentem, Populúmque, Urbémque, vocaruntVindelicam. Ricchardus. Vindo and Licus, which are at this day called Werda and Leck, and between which the City of Ausbourg is seated. It hath been pillag'd so often, particularly in the time of Attila, that there are scarcely any remains of its Antiquities to be found. It is I know not how long since, they dug out a Pillar five or six Foot high, over which was the figure of a Pine-Apple. There were also found some Medals of Augustus, on the Reverse of which the like Pillar is to be seen. As it was the usual Custom, to mark out by some bounds, the increase of the Empire, on the Frontiers of the Conquer'd Countries, and to joyn to those limits some representations of the things which were most common in the new Pro­vinces: It is very probable, that this was the use of the Pillar I just now mention'd, and of the Pine-Apple which is over it; for all this part of Germany is full of Pines and Firr-Trees. There is also a great deal of appearance, that for this reason Ausbourg bears a Pine-Apple in its Arms.

Though there be hardly any thing good or regular in the Fortifications of this Town, yet hath it sometimes sustain'd very rude Assaults with much vigour. It is now [Page 82] Forty three Years, since the Swedes and French besieged it, and reduced it to Famine, without being able to take it. It is an Im­perial City, and its Senate are half Luthe­rans, and half Roman Catholicks: But this Senate is not the sole Master of the State; five or six Sovereigns share it among them. A good part belongs to the Bishop: Almost all the Territory is his Demesne; and he hath his Palace in the City, though he resides at Dillengen, where also the University is. You know that all the Bishops of the Em­pire are Temporal Princes in their Diocesses, except those of the Hereditary Countries of the House of Austria.

The Roman Catholicks here make publick Processions, and carry the Host publickly. The Lutherans commonly pull off their Hats when they cannot avoid meeting the Host.

They do all they can possibly, to avoid giving scandal to either Party. The Poor of both Religions are put into the same Hospitals, and are there assisted by their own Ministers without any opposition.

The Jews have a separate place in the City; they are obliged to pay, when they resort thither, a Florin per hour, which is a piece of Money worth about three Shil­lings English.

The Town-House is a great four-square Building, of very fair hewn Stone. The Portal is of Marble, and almost all the Rooms are Wainscoted and Ciel'd with Ash of Poland, which is very fine. The great Hall is extreamly Magnificent. It is [Page 83] one hundred and ten foot long, fifty eight broad, and fifty two foot high; the Pave­ment is of green Marble. The Walls are covered with Paintings, between which there are many Devices and Emblems, which relate to the Government; but the Roof excells all the rest in Beauty. It con­sists of Compartments, the Squares and Pannels of which are inriched with gilded Sculptures, and filled with Pictures and o­ther Ornaments. And this is all so well ordered and performed, that it deserves a particular Observation.

The Arsenal is very great: The two Halls below are full of Cannon, of which the greatest part are of Brass. There is a Culverin of Leather twenty six foot long, which is a six Pounder. The upper Stories are filled with good Arms.

During the Wars of the Neighbouring Princes, in this last Age, the People of Ausbourg were careful to shut the Gates of the City early at Nights, which Custom was troublesome to Strangers, as well as to themselves. Wherefore they invented a kind of secret Gate, by which there was Passage to come in, without fear of surprize or other danger. This Gate remains still with all its Locks and Machines, and is a thing very singular. I have drawn a design of it, which I could shew you, but the description would at present be too difficult and tedious.

The Trade of Ausbourg decay'd, as that of Holland increas'd. Almost all Merchan­dizes [Page 84] which come from the Mediterranean, were formerly Landed at Venice, and from thence brought to Ausbourg, from which place they were dispers'd through all Ger­many. But Holland hath taken away all, and distributes all: And Ausbourg suffers as well as Venice, Milan, Antwerp, and an infi­nite number of other Cities, which are at present as Poor as they were formerly Rich.

Three Years after Gustavus the Great had made himself Master of Ausbourg, it was retaken by the Duke of Bavaria, who took away all the Churches from the Lutherans; in which case they remained from the Year Thirty five, till Forty eight, at which time all things were restor'd by the Peace of Munster. During which interval, the Lutherans had no liberty to assemble but in a College, from the Window of which they Preached to the People in the Court-yard. This College is still in their Possession; and I have seen a long Inscription, which is Graved under the Window, and begins thus: Praeclusis omnibus Evangelicorum tem­plis, coelum tamen ipsis patuit, &c. All the Churches of the Professors of the Gospel being shut, Heaven was yet open to them, &c.

You may see in the Bishop's Palace, the Chamber where the famous Confession of Ausbourg, wasIn the Year 1540. by Me­lancthon and Luther; Me­lancthon drew it up. presented to the Emperour Charles V. From thence we went to the Cathedral, where there is a Gate of Brass, over which many places of the Sacred Hi­story are represented in basso relievo, and they [Page 85] made us observe in the History of the Creation, that it was the Virgin Mary who created Eve, and form'd her out of one of Adam's Ribbs.

They are no less ingenious at Ausbourg, than at Nuremberg, and even they excel par­ticularly in Clock and Goldsmiths-work, and in works in Ivory. We saw several Clocks which were valued at fifteen or twenty thousand Crowns, they are plac'd in cases that are very richly wrought. And besides what relates to the motion of the Stars, and the Division of the Times and Seasons, they adorn them with many other things, which would be both pleasant and profitable, were they a little more lasting.

Their way of turning in Ivory is very curious, and deserves to be taken notice of with admiration. But one of the rarest Works which I saw here, I shall give you an account of: They are Glasses made hol­low and well shaped, with a Ring made of the same piece in turning, which plays be­tween the bottom and the bowl of the Glass, without possibility of taking off. There are an hundred with their Rings in a grain of Pepper of an ordinary size.These Glasses are in my hands. I often examined this little Miracle of Art, and observed the stripes and traces of the Tool with which they are turned, so that I found no secret in it, but that it was the pure work of the Eyes and the Hand.

They have here another very pleasant Bauble, which are Fleas fastned by the Neck with Chains of Steel. This Chain is [Page 86] so fine, that though it be near a Span long, the Flea will lift it up when it leaps. The Animal, Chain and all is sold for Ten Pence.

The variety of Habits, and difference of their Colours, is yet greater here than at Nuremberg. This is an Affair regulated by the Policy of the Magistrates, and you may know the Quality and Religion of the greatest part of the People, by the difference of their Cloaths. I will only represent to you the manner after which the Widow of a Roman Catholick Merchant wears Mourn­ing for her Husband. She hath a Christning Kercher, well whited and starched, with Wings and Cornets ordinary for this Dress, a black Petticoat, and a black Cloak, made like that of a Man, which comes to her Knees. A great white Veil behind, which hangs at the tail of the Kercher, down to her Heels, enlarging it self by degrees; a piece of the same Linnen with the Kercher, four foot long, and at least two broad, which is very much starched and stretched on a square of Wire-thred, fastned by the middle of one of its ends, just below the Lips, and covers all the fore part of the Body.

They have turned a little branch of the River Leck, and made it pass through the Town; the Waters are so clear and good, that they need seek for no other; there are four or five Towers upon this Arm of the River; on the tops of which they have made Fish-Ponds, and the Mills which are below cause Pumps to play, which lift up [Page] [Page]

[Page] [Page 87] the Water, and fill those Ponds or Cisterns, so that it is distributed throughout all the City. I ought not to forget to mention the Fountains of Ausbourg, which are one of its principal Ornaments. There are many of them which are almost as magni­ficent as the fine Fountain at Nuremberg.

LETTER XI.

I Observed at my going out of Ausbourg, in many Gardens, that they cover all their Vines and Fig-Trees, carefully with Straw or Mats, to preserve them from the Frost; the Cold being sharper in this Coun­try than in England, where we are not obliged to make use of these Precautions, though we lie nearer the North. It is cer­tainly true, that the divers degrees of Heat and Cold, are not always proportion'd to the diversity of Climates: There are ter­rible Winters in Canada in the midst of the temperate Zone, whilst every where else, under the same Climate, they enjoy a sweet and pleasant Air.

[Page 88] MUNICH.The Country is level enough between Ausbourg and Munich, but it is not very good; it is every where a mixture of Wood and Fields, and Firr-Trees. Munich is not above half so big as Ausbourg. It is a fine City, but ill fortified, and has no Trade; and without doubt little notice would be taken of this place, if the Elector's Re­sidence were not there, and if that Prince's Palace were not extraordinarily Magnifi­cent. Almost all the Houses of the City are painted on the out-side, but instead of Painting in Fresco or in Oyl, they make use of a kind of bad Plaister, which is liable to all the Injuries of the Weather: It wears off quickly, and rises hollow in many places, which maims all the Figures, and renders them very ugly.

We had heard some Persons boast so much of the Jesuits Library, that it was the first thing we would see when we came to Munich; but it did not answer our Ex­pectations. For, besides that, it is neither very good, nor well conditioned; they or­dered a Brother Cut-Cabbage, who knew better what belong'd to the Kitchin than to Books, to shew it us. I confess I could not believe such gross Ignorance could lurk un­der the Habit of one who call'd himself a Jesuite. It was absolutely impossible for us to make him understand, what those Au­thors were whom we called the Fathers. He presently named all the Fathers of his Convent, to try if he could find out whom we looked for. And at last, with a scow­ling [Page 89] look, he pray'd us to talk of something else. This is all I can tell you of the Li­brary, and the Library-keeper, or at least of his Deputy: For it is not very probable that all the rest of this Society are of the same Stamp. However, they carry four fair and high Corners in their Caps; and their House may be said to be a stately Palace. Their Church is also extreamly fine; it is of but one Body, very high, large, and strongly roofed; the Vestry is full of Riches, and they want no Reliques: They shewed us a Joynt as big as that of an Elephant, or some huge Animal; and this great Bone, as we were inform'd, is in great veneration with them, as being one of the Joynts of great St. Christopher's Back-Bone.

Leaving the Church of the Jesuites, we went to that of the Augustines, where are Pictures of great value.

We went thence to the Cajetans, who have a great and fair Church. I observ'd in a Map of Munich, that this City bears a Monk for its Arms,This City was built in the Year 962. by Duke Henry. Otho inclosed it with Walls, in 1157. and that it is called Mo­nacum, or Monachium, because there was a Monastery on the place where it is built. We also went to see in the Church of No­stre Dame, the Tomb of the Emperor Louis IV. This Sepulchre is adorn'd with many fine Marble and Brass Figures. Having advan­ced Ten or Twelve Steps from the entrance of the great Door of this Church, you be­hold one of the Stones of the Pavement, on which is a double Cross; and it hath been observ'd, that when you stand up­right [Page 90] in this Place, the Pillars of the Church are so placed, that you cannot see one of the Windows, though they are very many. All that come to Worship in those Chur­ches have a lighted Wax-Candle in their Hands; and that Candle is bigger or lesser, according to the Quality of the Saint, or their Devotion.

There is an ample and ex­act Description of this Palace written in Ita­lian by the Marquiss Ran. Pallavicino. This Royal House contains, saith he, Ele­ven Courts, Twenty great Halls, Nine­teen Galleries, Two Thousand Six Hundred great Glass Windows, Six Chapels, Six­teen great Kitchens, and Twelve large Cellars, Forty vast Apart­ments, which are even with­out one lower than the other, and in which you may distin­guish Three Hundred great Chambers, richly Painted, Wainscoated, Paved, Furnish­ed, &c.The out-side of the Elector's Palace is not suitable to the Magnificence within; and though the greatest part of its Apartments are well contriv'd, it may be said that they are all irregular: The reason is, that this great Mass of Building was not erected at the same time, every one wrought accord­ing to the Fancy of his Time, or his own private Judgment; and that hath been the cause of the dis-proportionableness of its Parts: But if it be taken altogether, it may certainly pass for a very beautiful Structure. You must not expect that I should give you an ample Description of a Place that is so vast, and so full of Rarities. I tell you in general, that all sorts of Beauties and Ri­ches are found there in abundance. The great Hall of the Emperour's Apartment is One Hundred and Eighteen Foot in length, and Fifty Two Feet in breadth. We may justly say, that it is in every respect Mag­nificent. All its Pictures are highly esteem­ed: They are Histories, the Sacred on one side, and the Prophane on the other; there are Latine Verses to every History. I will [Page 91] set down the Distick for Susanna, because I think it one of the best:

The Inscri­ption over the Door runs thus: D. O. M. ad cultum virgi­num Principis salutatae gene­tricis genito­ris sui, jam geniti, gig­nendi sacrum dicatum.The little Chapel which is in the A­partment of the Electress, is full of precious things: There is nothing but Gold, Pearls, and Gems of all Fashions. They keep a a great many Reliques there, among which I took notice of a piece of Gold Mohair, which, they say, was part of one of the Virgin's Robes.

The Parlour of Perspectives is one of the finest things of this Palace: But the Hall ofThe greatest part of these Antiquities were brought from Rome. Antiquities is famous all the World o­ver. I counted One Hundred Fourscore and Twelve Busts, and above Four Hun­dred other Pieces: All these are choice and rare, for the Beauty of their Work­manship, as well as their Antiquity. The greatest part of the Furniture of the Pa­lace is very rich; and they affirm that there are Eight Millions of Crowns-worth of Ta­pistry in the Wardrobe,The Sum per­haps is a little too big. besides what is in ordinary use. But the Treasury infinitely exceeds all the rest. There are many Ser­vices of Vessels of Gold, and many other precious Vessels. A prodigious quantity of great Pearls, Diamonds, Rubies, and other oriental Stones of exquisite Beauties; and an infinite number of excellent Pi­ctures, curious Works, Medals, and other Rarities. I cannot forget the Cherry-stone, [Page 92] upon which you may distinctly perceive the graving of One Hundred and Forty Heads; nor the Boat of Palm-Wood turn­ed into Stone, on which they have inscri­bed these two Verses:

Marble is to be found every where in this Palace, yet we must not cheat our selves; for they have the secret with a cer­tain Composition to make it; which be­comes so hard, and polishes so well, that those who are not very skilfull, take it for true Marble.

They have made diversWalks under Ground. Galleries of Communication, which cross the Streets and Houses, by which they can go pri­vately from the Palace to all the Churches and Convents of the City.

I will say nothing of the Arsenal, be­cause they have carried the Cannon, and most of the best Arms, into Hungary. We saw there the Tent of the Grand Vizier, which was taken in the last Battel, in which the Elector did so remarkably signa­lize his Valour. This Tent was vastly great, but no way fine: It is made of Cot­ton-Cloth printed, with the Strings, as they seem to me, of fine Sattin, cover'd with Silk Brede, and the Lozenges of the same, placed from one place to another, between the Strings.

[Page 93]I cannot tell you why this Country is not proper for Vines; there are none in it, and their ordinary Drink is Beer.

They know no other Religion here but that of Rome: And they look upon Men as Wolves, that are not of that Profession. Their principal Devotion is for the Virgin: She is painted on all their Houses; every place is full of her Chapels and Oratories, and they bestow Divine Titles on her.

LETTER XII.

AFter we had for some time follow'd the Banks of the Iser, which is the River of Munich, we entred into a Forest; at our coming out of which, we saw di­stinctly the beginning of the Alps: Their Snowy tops are mingled with the Clouds, and resemble very much the swelling and foaming Waves of a tempestuous and raging Sea. If the Courage of those has been ad­mir'd, who first expos'd themselves to the Fury of that Element, here is matter e­nough of Astonishment, that any one [Page 94] should venture himself among the Cavities of such frightful Mountains.

The same Day we departed from Mu­nich, we came to a Village call'd Lagrem, which is at the Foot of the Mountains, and near to a little Lake of very fresh Wa­ter; there they gave us Fish, whose Names we knew not. The first thing our Host treat­ed us with, was a Chafing-Dish full of In­cence, with which he perfum'd our Cham­bers; and truly we found more neatness in this little solitary Habitation, than in many great Cities in our Journey. After we had coasted the Mountains about Two Hours, we entred there, and for a long time mounted amongst the Rocks, Firr-Trees, and Snow. Nothing is more wild and dis­mal than these places. Sometimes you find some Fisher-men's Cottages, on the Banks of two or three Lakes, which are between the Mountains: But there is no sign of any till'd Land; and probably a little Goat's Cheese, with some Fish, is the principal Diet of these poor People. Their Cabins are made of the Roots of Firr-Trees, well joined together, and their Boats are fram'd of the same Trees hollow'd. They gave us Goats Flesh, and great Salmon-Trouts in the Village of Mittenwald, which is Three Leagues farther. This Village is in the middle of a pleasant Plain, and the Rocks which environ it are extraordinary high. Our Host shew'd us some Balls, or brown Masses, about the bigness of a Hen's Egg, or less, which are a kind of soft and im­perfect [Page 95] Bezoar, and are commonly found in those Parts, in the Stomachs of the Goats. The good Man assured us of their great Vir­tues, and that he often sold them to Travel­lers. He valued them at Ten Crowns a-piece; and I believe we should have done him a Courtesie, if we had taken Five or Six which he had, at that price.

A little farther we met a very pleasant Troop of Beggars; when they perceiv'd us at a good distance, one of them, who car­ried a Tree loaden with Red Fruits, plant­ed it in the middle of the Way, and sate down by the side of it; a little Demi-Devil in the shape of a Crocodile, fastened himself to the Tree, and a Girl with long and dishe­vel'd Hair, approach'd to it; an old Fellow cloath'd in Black, with a Peruke and Beard of Moss, stood at a little distance, with a young Boy clad in White, who held a Sword. When they thought we were near enough, the little Divel open'd the Come­dy with a Balderdash Song, and we could without difficulty Divine, that all was to re­present the History of the Fall. One of us as he passed by the Old Man, ask'd him, since he kept at a distance from them, whe­ther he was of the Company; the poor Mortal answer'd coldly, That he was God the Father, and that if we would stay a lit­tle, we should see him act his part, with his little Dagger-carrier, which was St. Michael the Arch-Angel. Behold the Product of the re­presentations which they make of the Deity!

A quarter of an Hour after this fine Ren­counter, we pass'd by the Fort of Chernitz, [Page 96] which is built between two inaccessible Rocks, and which separates the County of Tirol from the Bishoprick of Freisinghen. This Bishoprick is in Bavaria; and Tirol is one of the Emperor's Hereditary Provinces. We came very late to the Village of Seefeld, after we had made many Turnings and Windings among the Mountains. There is a Convent of Augustines in this Village, and you may see in their Church two or three pretended Mi­racles, with which they make no small noise.

They tell of a certain Gentleman, na­med Milser, who lived at the Castle of Schlosberg, about a quarter of a League from thence; and was very much dreaded in this Village, that he was so vain as to desire to communicate with the great Host, which is only for the use of the Clergy: They endeavour'd to perswade him out of this Fancy, but all in vain. When they had put the Host into his Mouth, it cast out, as they say, a Flood of Blood, and at the same time the Legs of the Communi­cant sunk into the Pavement up to the Knees: He would have supported himself on the Altar, but the Stone gave way, and softned under his Hand, and the poor mi­serable Man had been swallow'd alive, if he had not been retriev'd by a speedy Repentance. The Augustines shew this pre­tended Host, chewed, and bloody, in a Repository of Glass. They shew also the print of a Hand on one of the Stones of the Altar, and a Hole in the Pavement of the Church near the same Altar, as of two Legs sunk into soft Ground. They say [Page 97] that this Host worketh Miracles; and they find it not inconvenient to their Con­vent.

Two good Leagues on this side Seefeld, we began to descend, and three quarters of an Hour afterwards, we arriv'd in a deep Val­ley, which was at least a Mile in breadth. The River Inn glides pleasantly along; and waters many not unhandsome Villages. We turn'd to the left in this Valley, and fol­low'd always the Foot of the Mountain. And a little League farther, they made us observe a straight and cragged Rock, which they said was above an Hundred Fathom high, and was call'd The Emperor's Rock. About three quarters of the height of this Rock, there was a Nich dug,See Stephen Pegius in his Hercules Pro­dicius. in which there was a Crucifix, and a Statue on each side of it. They say that Maximilian I. being in chase of a wild Goat, alighted just at this place from the top of the Rock, which joins to the Mountains behind; and that the Emperour not daring to remount his Horse, was feign to have recourse to Ma­chines to get down.

Inspruck is but Two short Hours beyond the middle of the Valley,INSPRUCK. upon the River Inn: You pass this River over a Bridge be­fore you enter the City; and it is therefore called Inspruck, that Word having the same signification in High-Dutch, as Aenipons, or Aenipontum in Latin.

There are very fine Houses at Inspruck, but the manner after which they cover them, seems at first to be troublesome to [Page 98] those who are not acquainted with them; for not only the Roofs are flat, but instead of the Rafters rising to a Point, they are reversed, and the Rain falls into the middle of the Roof.

After the Duke of Lorrain had the mis­fortune to lose his Estates, the Emperour gave him the Possession of Tirol; and the Residence of this Prince was at Inspruck, in the Palace which was formerly the Arch-Duke's. This Palace hath many Conveni­encies, and is of a sufficient extent, but it was built at several times, and hath neither Beauty nor Regularity.

They show'd us here one thing singular, of which I will endeavour to give you the most certain Account I could any way learn; though all my Industry to that pur­pose signify'd but little. The House which they call the Chancery, is on the Place in the midst of the City. The Portrait of this House is like a little Porch without, to a Roof which is supported by the Wall of the House; and they assure us that this Roof is cover'd with Plates of Gold. This is what they told us of it. A Rebellion, and almost general Sedition being rais'd a­gainst an Arch-Duke call'd Frederick, whom they particularize no otherwise; that Prince was forc'd to hide himself, but not being willing to go far off, that he might be ready to Act, in case his Affairs should be in a bet­ter Posture; he engag'd himself, say they, to serve a Miller in a Village of the neighbour­ing Mountain. In effect, the Troubles [Page 99] happen'd to be appeas'd, and Frederick was recall'd. But there was still an Evil Spi­rit amongst some of them, that jeer'd him, and gave him the Nick-name of Empty Purse; to shew therefore that he was not so poor as those People imagin'd, he affected to be prodigal of Gold, in employing that preci­ous Metal on so vile a thing as that you now heard of.

This History contains nothing impossible, and it was related to us for a certain Truth, by People who seem'd to me Wise and Sen­sible: nevertheless, to speak freely, I cannot but suspect it. I believe no Author ever writ of it, and so singular a thing could not have been omitted. Perhaps something not un­like to this did really happen, which might give occasion to this Tradition.

I could not touch the Roof, because it is a little too high, but I have attentively look'd upon it, and saw distinctly that the Plates of Brass are placed on the Timber, and serve for Tiles; and I perceiv'd also that each of these Plates is cover'd with another thin one of other Metal, which seem'd to me to be about a Line in thick­ness. If these last Plates are not of Gold, I am sure they are gilded; but if there be but a simple Gilding, why Metal upon Metal? and why could they not also gild the Brazen Tiles?

The Roof may be about Fifteen Foot square; and if it be of Gold, I find by cal­culation that it cost about Two hundred thousand Crowns.

[Page 100]It was, as they say, the same Frederick, who caus'd Twenty eight fair Statues of Brass to be made, which are in the Church of the Cordeliers. There are Emperours, Arch-Dukes, Dukes of Burgundy, Two Em­presses, and Two Princesses, whom they knew not who they were: All are bigger than the Life. There is also to be seen in this Church a magnificent Tomb of the Emperour Maximilian I.

We went also to see Amras, which is a House of Pleasure of the Arch-Duke's; This House is a good half Hour from In­spruck, at the Foot of the Mountain; it hath no Beauty on any side, that we could observe, and its Situation is the only thing that makes it pleasant. They have taken a­way all the Furniture of ordinary use, but we found Galeries full of fine and very rare things. They led us presently into a large Hall, where truly the Arms were more curious than useful. They made us take notice, amongst other things, of an extraordinary great and heavy Lance, which the Arch-Duke Ferdinand used in Turnaments. They said that PrinceThe same is related of Lio­nardo du Vin­ci, a Painter of Florence. could stop a Coach and Six Horses, by ta­king hold of a Spoak of the Wheel; and that he broke with his Hands, two Crown-Pieces joined together: and I know not how many other prodigious things, more difficult to be believ'd than the History of Frederick.

We went out of this Hall into a Galery, where were to be seen many Princes upon [Page 101] their best Horses, with all their Armour, and all the Ornaments they used in Turnaments. They also kept there the Skin of a Serpent, which is Fifteen Foot long, and which was taken near Ulm, on the Bank of the Da­nube. At the end of the Galery you go in­to a Chamber, fill'd with Spoils and Arms taken from the Turks. A Bassa and an Aga of the Janisaries, are represented on their Horses, with the same Equipage they had when they were taken. Their Habits are very rich; and the Harness of their Horses is yet much richer; they are loaded with Ornaments of Gold and Silver, Precious Stones, Damask-Works, and other Arabian Embellishments.

From this they brought us into another Galery, in which was a double Rank of great Cupboards, which were joined by the Backs and Sides, and which fill'd the mid­dle of the Galery, even to the top, so that there was but a little room left to walk round. The Three first Cupboards were full of Works of Alabaster, Glass, Coral, and Mo­ther of Pearl. In the Fourth were Medals and Money of Gold and Silver. The Fifth was garnish'd with Vessels of Porcelane, and Seal'd Earth. In the Sixth were many little Cabinets very rich, of curious inlaid Works; the Boxes were fill'd with Medals, and little Works of Agat and Ambergreese: There are Seven great Volumes cover'd with Black Velvet, with Plates and Clasps of Silver; and instead of Leaves they con­tain flat Boxes, which inclose a great num­ber [Page 102] of Medals, so that these seven Volumes contain a compleat History. In the seventh Cupboard are ancient or curious Arms: I I observed a Cross-bow which included four and thirty Bows, and discharged thirty four Arrows at a flight. The eighth is full of Animals, Plants, and other Productions of Nature. That which is esteemed the greatest Rarity, is the Horn of an Oxe, which is six Inches diameter. There are also Works of Wood, of Ivory, and of the Pen, in the three following Cupboards. The twelfth is filled with Manuscripts, and curious Books. It would grieve one to pass this over slightly, because those who show it know not its worth. In the thirteenth are only works of Steel, and particularly mysterious Padlocks, and other Locks of curious Invention. You see in the four­teenth, Stones which represent Trees, Fruits, Shells, and Animals, all which are the pure product of Nature. The fifteenth and six­teenth are full of all sorts of Clock-work, and Instruments of Musick. That which follows is full of precious Stones, but un­wrought, and with a great deal of unpre­par'd Metals and Minerals. In the eighteenth are many small Vessels of diffe­rent Materials, and a very great number of the finest Shells in the World. The nine­teenth is the most precious of all, it is full of Vessels of Gold, Chrystal, Agat, Chal­cedony, Onyx, Cornelian, Lapis Lazuli, and other precious Stones, all of it inrich'd with Gold and Diamonds, in basso releivo, [Page 103] and other Ornaments of most curious Workmanship. The twentieth and last is filled with Antiquities, Sepulchral Lamps, Urns, Idols, &c. They also keep here a piece of a Rope about the length of your hand, and tell you, that it is a piece of the Rope with which Judas hang'd him­self.

There are an infinite number of things fastned to the Cieling and the Walls. The Bow of Noah, of the Bassan, is the most esteemed amongst the Pictures, and it ef­fectually is an admirable Piece. They say the last great Duke of Tuscany would have given an hundred thousand Crowns for it. Besides the Medals which I have told you of, and whose number is infinitely great, there is above a great Mule's Load, that lie huddled together in a Chest. When we parted from hence they brought us to the Library, which we found in very bad or­der, and our Guide could tell us nothing at all. From the Library we passed into a Galery, where there is a great number of Statues, Busts, and other Pieces of Antiqui­ty, and we saw afterwards a great many Chambers hung round with Pictures of great Price.

This Bill of Parcels is a little long, but I hope it will not be tedious to you. At last I must not forget to tell you of a Ser­vant at our Inn,At the Gol­den-Hart. who deserves to be ranked with these Rarities. This Fellow stretches his Arm on the Ground, and a Man of good Stature stands upon his Hand; he lifts [Page 104] him up with this Hand only, and carries him from one end of the Room to the other.

LETTER XIII.

A Small League from Inspruck, we re­enter'd into the Mountains, and for seven hours together did nothing but a­scend; this was the most troublesome day's Journey we had all the way. A place seemed to us to be amongst the Clouds, which a little while after we saw below us. At length we came very late to a little Vil­lage, which is not yet at the top of the Mountain. It is called Grusse, that is, the Salutation; and it was so named because Charles V. and Ferdinand his Brother met in this place: you may find the Story about two hundred Paces from the Village, on a Marble Stone, which was plac'd exactly where these two illustrious Brothers em­braced each other.

We had for Supper divers sorts of Wild-Fowl and Venison: almost all the Hares [Page 105] here, as well as the Foxes and Bears, are white; the Patridges are likewise so for the most part: there are a great many Heath-Hens, Pheasants, and other great Fowl, which they call Schenhakn, or Cock of the Snow. All these sort of Wild-Fowl have their Feet velvetted about the Claws, with a kind of Furr, which I cannot call either Hair or Feathers, but so thick as the Snow cannot pierce it.

The Mountain is called Brennerberg, which signifies a fiery Hill; and the reason is, that besides the Thunders which are fre­quent in Summer, there are Winds some­times which pierce and burn. They force themselves into the Throats or Passages of the Neighbouring Mountains, as into Pipes; and these various Torrents of the Air shock one another so impetuously, that they pro­duce roaring and furious Hurricanes, which tear up both Trees and Rocks by the Roots. They say, that Travellers are sometimes constrained, to wait many days till these Storms are over. As for us, we left this unpleasant Quarter the next day, and about two hours from thence, came to the highest accessible part of this Mountain. There we saw a thing very remarkable: It was a great Spring which falls upon a Rock, and straightway separates it self into two Currents, which in a little time after be­came two considerable Rivers. The one turns to the South, and disgorges it self into the Inn, near Inspruck. The other runs Northward, and after it hath passed Brixen [Page 106] and Bolsane falls into the Adige, a little above Trent. We dined the same day at Steert­zingen, where they gave us Oysters of Venice, and some Flesh of a certain Beast call'd Steinbokt, which is between a He-Goat and a Doe, and is most delicate Food. At this Town we turned out of the direct way to Trent, because it is dangerous, by reason of the Precipices, and took that of Brixen, which is not so rough, and is the most fre­quented.

This day we met more than an hundred Waggons which came from the Fair of Bolsane; they were almost all drawn by Oxen. I observed that the Cloven Feet of these Cattle were both parts shod with Iron. The Peasants of these Mountains have little Carts with two Wheels, which they draw themselves, and which they make use of to fetch Salt from Hall, which is a little City in the Valley of Inspruck. There are Salt-Pits there, the Water whereof being boiled, turns to Salt.

The Habits of these Mountaineers are the most pleasant in the World: Some of them have green, others yellow and blue Hats; and in some places it is difficult to know the Men from the Women. But as we change Countries, we may in all things observe the variety which reigns in the World. We find not only new Languages and new Customs, but also new Plants, new Fruits, new Cattle, and a new Face of the Earth. Almost quite throughout Tirol, the Sheep are black, in some places they [Page 107] are of a red tawny, and in others altogether white. There are some Provinces in which they have Horns; and others, where a horned Sheep would be look'd upon as a Monster. We observed also many diffe­rences in Beasts of the same kind: Nor are the Humours of Men without their Vari­eties. Not to leave the example of the Sheep; I know some Provinces, as that of Poitou, where the Milk of these Creatures is preferred before that of the Cows.Montague saith, the Tar­tars preferr Mares-Milk to all other Milk. In most others they will not trouble themselves to Milk them, so little do they value their Milk. I once liv'd a considerable while in a Country, where, when a Sow Pigs, if there be any white ones they drown them, because they believe, that all the white Pigs are Meazled. I have been also in a­nother Country, where the black Hogs were in less esteem than others. In Nor­mandy the Milk of a black Cow is look'd on as a specifick Remedy; the Doctors pre­scribe it for such, because the black Cows are less common than the red. And in some places of your Country it is quite contrary, they most highly esteem the red Cows Milk; the cause is plain, because the Cows are almost all black. Some can en­dure to look on nothing but what they are accustom'd to see; and others value nothing but what is rare and unknown. Custom and Prejudice domineer over the World, and fantastical Humour reigns every where with them.

[Page 108] BRIXEN. Brixen is yet in Tirol, it is a very little City, notwithstanding it is a Bishoprick, and the Bishop resides in it. I cannot tell you the reason why the best Lodgings in this Country are always in the uppermost Story. It is true, that there you have less noise, but the trouble to get up to them is an inconvenience.

From Brixen to Bolsane, which are but seven hours distant, we pass almost always between the River and the Mountains. Here the Rocks are so high that they pierce the Clouds; and when the Snow meets, or a sudden Thaw comes, it occasions such a rowling of these Rocks as makes the way very dangerous: A Traveller is pent up there as in a streight, or amongst many streights, and has not room enough to go either forward or backward, without dan­ger, which is alike either way. The Ac­cidents which happen, and the Coaches which are overturned, often in these un­even ways, have occasioned these little Ora­tories with which these Ways are lined. There they paint the misfortunes which befall them: And in the Picture you see, every one invoking that Saint, or that Nostradame, in which they have the greatest Confidence: For such a one hath a pro­found Veneration for our Lady of such a place, who would not spend a denier upon all the rest. When they are grievously Wounded, or any one is Kill'd, there is nothing for either He or She-Saint; but when any one hath a fortunate Escape, they [Page]

[Page] [Page 109] erect these little Monuments I told you of. It is after this manner that some Churches are filled with Presents, which they say are the effects of Vows. Those who are in any kind of danger, implore either their Saint or their Relique, or their miraculous Image, If they are delivered they call their Preservation a Miracle, and accomplish their Vows. There have been already more than a Cart-load of Heads, Arms, and other Members of Silver, offered to our new Lady of Newbourgh. You may see great Churches all furnished and hung round with the like Monuments. They every day bring new ones, and the old give place to them, but you may be sure no­thing is lost.

When we entred into the Valley of Bol­sane, we were astonished to find the Air as sweet as could be imagined. The Vine­yards were all green, as well as the Willows, the Roses, the Mulberies, and a great num­ber of other Trees. A true Spring in the middle of Winter. This proceeds from its being sheltred from ill Winds, or from some other circumstance of the Country.

Bolsaner is in the Bishoprick of Trent; BOLSANE. it is a very little City, and its Fairs are all it can boast of. There are four in the Year, and each lasts fifteen days; in which the Mer­chandizes of Germany and Italy are ex­changed. We observed in the Roof of the Body of the great Church, a round Hole about three foot diameter; round about which is a kind of Garland, which is tied [Page 110] with Ribbons of several Colours, and on which I know not how many great Wafers hang. They told us, that on Ascension-day, there was a kind of Opera in this Church, and that a Man which represented Jesus Christ, was lifted up to Heaven through this hole.

All the Valley of Bolsane is full of Vine­yards, and the Vines are highly esteem'd by the People of the Country; but Strangers are not pleased with them, because of their sweetish Taste. It is but a good days Jour­ney between Bolsane and Trent, through the Valley which is very fruitful and pleasant. From place to place, near the Vines, are little Huts of Straw, which are supported by three high Firr-Poles, placed like a Trevet; there they hide themselves with a Carbine, in one of these little Ba­racques, and kill the Bears which come down from the Mountain to eat the Grapes.

TRENT. Trent is a little City, not much bigger than Bolsane, and is almost situated after the same manner. It is founded on a flat Rock of a kind of white and reddish Marble, of which most of the Houses are solidly built. This City hath many times been laid waste, by the Inundations to which it is subject. The River often overflows, and the Brooks of Levis and Fersena, tumble sometimes from the Mountains with such a terrible impetuosity, that they drive before them great Rocks, and rowl them even into the Town. Trent is begirt with a single Wall, [Page 111] and the Adige runs by the side of it. They boast of the Bridge which is built over this River, without having any thing extraordi­nary to show. They recommended to us the Bishop's Palace, as a great and splendid Edi­fice; and I remember I have formerly heard the same things said of it: But these Re­ports created in us false Notions of that House, which is low, and but of a very in­different size. The Bishop is a Temporal and Spiritual Lord in his Diocess, which is of a large extent. Some place it in Ita­ly, others make it part of Tirol: But these last deceive themselves, if we may believe the People of the Country, for they say Trent is in Italy, though the Bishop be a Prince of the Empire; and the common Language of Trent is Italian.

They shew'd us in a Chapel of the Ca­thedral, the Crucifix under which the Synod was sworn, and promulg'd: It is as big as the Life, and, they say, it bowed its Head, to testifie the Approbation which it gave to the Decrees of that Assembly. They add, That no Man ever knew what it was made of; so that many doubt whether it were made with Hands. They are about to take it from the dark Place in which we saw it, and place it in a magnificent Cha­pel, which will shortly be finished; where they expect it will do more Miracles than ever: It is call'd by way of Eminency, The Holy Crucifix. From thence we went to St. Mary Major, which yet is but a little Church. It is built of a kind of base Mar­ble, [Page 112] whose Squares are only cut a little less; and it was in this place the Council sate. The Organs of this Church are extraordi­narily great. They played to us many new Ayres, and counterfeited the Cries of a great many Animals: They beat a Drum, and did I know not how many other things, which have little relation to this place, or to the gravity of the Council, which is repre­sented in a great Picture hard by.Rigord, Phy­sician and Hi­storiographer of Philip Augu­stus, writes that in 1180, the Jews of Paris tore by Whipping, and Crucified a Boy of 12 Years old, named Richard, the Son of a Citi­zen; that the Criminals were put to death; that all the Jews were driven out of the Kingdom, and young Richard was canonzied. R. Dumont continuer of of the Chroni­cle of Sigi­bert. Rob. Gagum, Library-Keeper of Louis XII. Duplerick, and many others, re­port the same Story. Mezeray saith, that Louis Hattin recall'd the Jews, and that Nation being accus'd for poisoning the Fountains and Wells in 1321, were banish'd for ever by Philip V. the Edict yet remains. After­wards they carried us to the Church of St. Peter, to see the little Saint Simonin in his Chapel. They say that in the Year 1276, the Jews stole the Child of a Shooe-maker, whose name was Simon, and after they had shed his Blood in a most cruel manner, to serve at the Celebration of one of their Feasts, they threw the Carcass into a Water-Pipe (which pass'd at present to the House where the thing was done, and where their Sy­nagogue was at that time), and that the Bo­dy was carried by the Current into the Ri­ver, and taken up by Fisher-men. In a Word, the whole Villany was discover'd; the Jews were convicted, Thirty nine of them hang'd, and the rest banish'd the City for ever. Sixtus IV. who was then Pope, being inform'd of the whole matter, thought fit to Canonize the Child, and gave it the name of Simonin, the diminitive of Simon, the Father's Name. The Body was embalm'd, and is to be seen openly in a [Page 113] Case which is upon the Altar of the Cha­pel dedicated to him. They keep also in an adjoining Cupboard, the Knife, Pin­cers, and Four great Iron Needles, with which his Butchers tormented him; and Two Goblets of Silver, in which they drunk his Blood. Thus the Jews were ex­pell'd. But some Years after they obtain'd permission to abide in the City Three Days to do Business, and they assur'd me, that these Three Days were reduc'd to Three Hours, for their obstinate Defence of Buda in the last Siege. They have pain­ted this Story at Francfort, under the Bridge Gate, to load these miserable People who live in that City, with new Reproach; they have added other infamous Figures, where the Divel and Swine are represented mock­ing and laughing at the Jews. I forgot to tell you that the little Simonin was but Twenty eight Months old when he was thus Mar­tyr'd. I remember the two last Verses of an Epitaph on the Tomb of a young Lady in the Church of St. Mark; I believe they will not displease you. This young Wife says to her Husband,

LETTER XIV.

ROVEREDO.WE passed thro' the little City of Rove­redo, where there is a great Trade of Silk. Bourguetto is not far off, which is the last Village of the Trentin, and Ossenigo the first of the State of Venice; a little Cross of Wood makes the Separation between these two Sovereignties. A little on this side of Roveredo, we travers'd a Country all full of loose Rocks, scatter'd here and there, as if an Earthquake had thus sow'd them from the Ruines of some Mountain: This is call'd the Wood of Roveredo, though there be not so much as the Branch of a Tree in it. The Passage is sometimes dangerous, by reason of Thieves, as well as the Forest of Verg­nara, which is between Ossenigo, and the Fort of Guardara. Our Messenger advis'd us to take a Convoy in this last Passage. When you are come into the States of Ve­nice, you find no more of those Stoves, of which Germany is full; and you find a sen­sible change in every thing.

CHIUSA.We were constrain'd to lodge in a little Village call'd Seraino, because it was too late to get to Scluse. That is a very consi­derable Fort, whose Situation is something like that of the Scluse which we met be­tween Geneve and Lyons, on the River Rhosne; I fansie I have seen the Descri­ption [Page 115] of it in your Closet. The first is at the Foot of a high Rock; the way which leads to it is dug out of the craggy part of the same Rock; and on the other side is a Precipice, at the bottom whereof rowls the Adige. After we had pass'd this Fort, and had for some time follow'd the Banks of that River, which glides along among high Rocks, we found the Heaven open'd, and entred into a vast Plain; whereas ever since our Departure from Munich, we had been enclos'd between the Mountains.

This Plain is stony and barren in divers Places: There are in it some Olive-Trees, and White Mulberries for the Silk-Worms; the Vines ate planted at the foot of Cher­ry-Trees, and young Elms, and they join themselves in Garlands from Tree to Tree. We pass'd the Adige in a Ferry-Boat, two good Leagues from Seraino; and a quarter of an Hour after,VERONA. we plainly perceiv'd Ve­rona, where we arrived the same Day. By what we saw at our entrance into it, we judg'd it to be but thinly Peopled. There are great void places on this side, and Grass growing in the Streets, and the great­est part of them not paved: It's true, the rest of the City is not like this part; but putting all together, Verona looks like a poor place; and indeed there is but little Trade in it, and those which live on their Rents make no great Figure. If there be some fine Buildings, it is certain that the Houses in general are very low and unequal. The greatest part of the Balconies are of Wood, [Page 116] so loaded with little Gardens in Pots and Cases, that it seems dangerous to pass un­der them: The Streets are dirty, and al­most all narrow. In a Word, This City is not at all fit to please the Eyes of a Travel­ler. Nevertheless it is very great, in a good Air, and its Situation is admirable. As it yields but little satisfaction when you be­hold it near, and take a particular view of it; so much the more will you admire it, when you look upon it from some eminency. We went up to the Castle of St. Peter, which is on a rising ground, within the Compass of the Walls, and we could not give over view­ing it from this Place; where we had a full prospect of it, and were charm'd to behold that admirable Garden of Pleasure, in the midst of which it is seated. The Adige crosses it, and Four fair Stone Bridges make the Communication between the two Parts, into which the River divides it. The Ca­stle of St. Felix is behind that of St. Peter, and both together command the City. The other Fortifications of this place are much neglected, and very irregular.

The Amphitheatre of Verona is a thing so much the more surprising, because we do not frequently meet with such Monuments of antiquity.The outward Wall or Front. The Inclosure is all destroy'd, but they have taken care to repair the Benches, according as they fell to decay; there are Four and forty of them, and I counted Five hundred and thirty Paces in the highest round, and Two hundred and fifty on the lowest. Every Step is near a Foot and a [Page 117] half high,See the little Treatise which Justus Lipsius hath writ of Amphithea­ters. and is about Twenty six Inches in breadth: This last Distance could not be less, that so those who sate behind might not be troublesome to the others with their Feet. At every end of the Arena, between the Benches, there is a Portal of Twenty eight Foot high, by which the Entrance is to the Arena out of the Street; and a­bove every Portal a kind of Tribune or Platform of Twenty Foot long, and Ten broad, closed before and on the sides with a Balcony of Marble.Others at­tribute it to the Emperour Maximin. Euseb. It is commonly said that this was the work of Augustus, but I find but little Proof of it. You see still remaining a TriumphalThe Inscripti­on of this Arch can no more be read. See how it is related by N. Vigni­er, in his Historical Library. Colonia Augusta Verona Gallieniana. Valeriano. II. Et Lucilio Coss. muri veronensium Fabricari, & die III. Non. April. dedicati. prid. no. Decemb. jubente sanctissimo Gal­lieno. Aug. N. Arch, and some Ruines of Ancient Monuments.

The Cathedral is a little dark Church. Pope Lucius III. is interr'd there; and they have written for an Epitaph on his Tomb-Stone, Ossa Lucii III. Româ pulsus invidiâ. I expected to have found another, which is more ingenious, which I remember I have read somewhere:

[Page 118] You know this Pope had great Broils with Frederick Barbarossa, as well as Alexander III. his Predecessor. But these were not the only Cause of his leaving Rome: He was driven out by the Magistrates, and by theLucius est piscis rex, atque Tyrannus aquarum A quo discordat Lucius iste parum. Devorat ille homines, hic piscibus insidiatur: Esurit hic semper, ille aliquando satur. Amborum vitam si laus aequata notaret, Plus rationis habet, qui ratione caret. People, because he would be too Imperi­ous.

It is said that Pepin the Son of Charle­main, and King of Italy, built the Church of St. Zeno at Verona. It must be confess'd the Carvers of that time were miserable Ar­tists. Never were there seen such wretch­ed Figures as these in the Front of this Church. I observ'd in rhe Frontispiece of the great Portal, two kind of Birds, which by their Combs somewhat resembled Cocks. They hold an Animal with a long Tail, be­tween them, which we suspected was design'd to represent a Fox; this poor Beast had his Feet tied together, and hung over a Pole, the ends of which were supported by the Cocks. I cannot forbear searching into the meaning of this little Mystery; and if you please, I will adventure to tell you my Thoughts of it. The allusion of Gallus a Cock, to Gallus a French-man, is a thing so familiar, that I fansie the two Cocks may signifie two French-men, and the Animal thus bound, must be some crafty Fellow, [Page 119] cheated nevertheless, and supplanted by the Cocks. The Crane hath formerly been too hard for Renard. But to apply this Em­blem to some particular Event: Supposing it to be true, that this Chuch was built under Pepin, as it seems very probable, it may be conjectur'd, that his Father Charle­main and he were the two Cocks, and that the unfortunate Didier, the last King of the Lombards, was the Fox: You know Charlemain caus'd himself to be crown'd King of the Lombards, after he had dispos­sessed Didier, and Pepin was crown'd King of Italy some Years after: Didier then van­quish'd, stripp'd, shaven, and put into a Convent; too nearly resembles the Fox: Except you had rather it should be his Son, whose Name, I think, was Adalgise; who in the end was taken and kill'd, af­ter he had vainly employ'd all his Wit and Force to regain the Possession of his Fa­ther's Dominions. I will not say that Pe­pin amus'd himself with such a Trifle, but it was perhaps the Fancy of the Carver. On the side of the same Portal they have put this fine Hieroglyphick. There is a Man on Horse-back in basso relievo, over whom these Three Verses are written in Characters, half Roman, half Gothick:

[Page 120]Tho' I have given you some Conjectures concerning the Fox, I confess I can make nothing of this Divel's Horse; you may think of both as you please.

Returning from thence, we pass'd by the little Church of St. Mary the Old, near which are to be seen many magnificent Tombs of the Scaligers, who, as you know, were Princes of Verona, before that City belong'd to the Republick of Venice.

The Rarities which we saw in the Cabi­net of the Count Mascardo, deserve that some learned Man should undertake their Description: And it may be cause of Admiration, that those who have had the Curiosity, and the Means to amass so many fine things together, should not have had the care to procure Stamps of them, and to add Explanatory Remarks on such as are most considerable; scarce any thing more remarkable can fall within the Observati­on of a Traveller, nor any thing that de­serves better to be studied and describ'd. There you find a Gallery, and Six Cham­bers, all fill'd with the most admira­ble Productions of Art or Nature. But as it is not possible for me to give you a par­ticular Account of so many things, so will I not engage my self in such a Task, nei­ther at present, nor for the future: You need but call to mind all that you have alrea­dy seen in my Letters, and particularly that which I writ from Inspruck. Of Pictures, Books,Roman Rods or Fasces. Rings, Animals, Plants, Metals, monstrous or Extravagant Productions, and [Page 121] Works of all Fashions; and, in a Word, all that can be imagin'd curious, or worth in­quiry, whether for Antiquity or Rarity, or for the Delicacy and Excellency of the Workmanship; the Catalogue of them would alone amount to a Volume; only to satisfie you in some measure, I assure you, that when-ever I shall meet with any thing that I have not taken Notice of be­fore, and which shall seem worthy of par­ticular Observation, I shall take care to communicate it to you.

There are here manyThe Vessels which they name are, en­clabria, pate­rae, prefericu­la, ollae sym­pullae. Many sorts of Knives, dola­bra, cultri, seva, secespita. Axes, Mallets, Candlesticks. Instruments and Utensils, which were used in the Pagan Sacrifices. They also show'd us Figures of Brass, that represent all sorts of things, which they hung up in the Temples of their Gods, when they had receiv'd any Assi­stance from them.

We saw also many pieces of Workman­ship, fram'd out of the Stone Amianthos, which is the [...], so famous among the Natura­lists; this Stone, as hard and weighty as it is, is easily divided into Fibres or Threads, which are so strong and flexible, that they may be spun like Cotton. Before I leave this Head, I must acquaint you with this Remark concerning the Instances of Petrefaction, which I have observ'd either here or else­where; that there is many times a great deal of Errour and Uncertainty in them, and that there are several Persons who scru­ple not to use a little Artifice to multiply [Page 122] and diversitie the Rarities with which they design to fill a Cabinet. It cannot be de­ny'd that Nature seems to divert herself sometimes, with such fantastical Changes; but it must also be confess'd, that they are often counterfeited by Art. I know not whether you ever saw any of those pre­tended Animals, call'd Basilisks, which have a little resemblance of a Dragon. The Invention is prettily contriv'd, and has cheated many; for they take a small Ray, and having turn'd it after a certain man­ner, and rais'd up the Fins in form of Wings, they fit a little Tongue to it, sha­ped like a Dart, and add Claws and Eyes of Enammel, with other little Knacks, cu­riously order'd; and this is the whole Se­crecy of making Basilisks. I am not igno­rant that some Authors mention another sort of Basilisk, without either Feet or Wings, which they represent like a crown'd Serpent, and many Naturalists affirm that it kills with its Breath and Looks. Galen takes notice of it as the most Venemous of all Serpents, and tells us that the We­zel only fears not its Poison, but on the contrary, poisons it with its Breath. But I believe this Serpent is found only in the Land of Phoenixes and Uni­corns.

The Curious may learn in Matthiolus how they make the Mandrakes.I might alledge to you many other lit­tle Cheats, like that of the first Basilisk; but to return to our Account of Petrefa­ction, I shall fix only on one of all those Observations that might be brought to Il­lustrate [Page 123] this Subject. There is a certain natural Production, according to some, a kind of imperfect Plant, or a Coralline Matter, which extreamly resembles a Mush­room. I know not whether they do not some­times cheat themselves, or are willing to cheat others. Be it as it will, this is that which they call Petrify'd Mushrooms, which indeed were never Mushrooms. The Question de­pends on the matter of Fact; but one may yet say, that the little solidity, and the little hardness of a Mushroom, makes it a thing the least in the World Petrifiable, the Meta­morphosis must be done in a trice.

I remember I observ'd in this Cabinet many of those Barks of Trees, on which the Ancients wrote, before they knew the use of Paper; two Trees of black Coral, three Foot high each; a Hen's Egg

which was of this Figure; a Knife of Stone extreamly sharp, which some Jews made use of for the Circumcision of Children who died before the Eighth Day. The Ceremonies of the Jews are diffe­rent, particularly between the Oriental, the German, the Italian, and the Portugueze. I remember I have read in Buxtorf, an in­finite Number of their Customs that are not used in this Country. Some make use of the Cutting-StoneIt is said ac­cording to the Hebrew, in Joshua Chap. V. that they Circumcised the Children of Israel with Knives of Stone; and in Exodus IV. That Zippora circumcised her Son with a Stone. Joseph Scaliger saith, there were Jews who took off the Prepuce with their Nails; and others who cut it a little, and tore away the rest. I have seen them cut with a kind of Razor at London and Rome., according to the [Page 124] ancient Practice: But in Italy, they gene­rally use to bury the dead Child without Circumcision; and if they circumcise them, they use a Knife made of a Cane: The ordinary Circumcision is perform'd with a Steel Knife.

We saw a Burial lately, of which I must give you some Account: The Body was dress'd in Black, with a White Linen Cloak, a fine Peruke, on the Head a Hat, and above that a Garland of Flowers. The Corps was laid on a Quilt, with a Counterpane of Flower'd Silk, Yellow and Red, and supported with a Pillow of the same Stuff. Four Men carry'd it thus all open, and the Company follow'd Two and Two, of which only those wore Garlands who were never Married. This was also the Custom of the Ancients, and they call'd it Corona pudicitiae, The Crown of Chastity. Some Hours before, we had another Ren­counter: It was a Woman richly dress'd, who walk'd thro' the City between two Nuns, and was going to take the Habit. It is ordinary in this Country to go thus in publick, whereas in France, and many other places, this Ceremony is perform'd in the Convent.M. Montel. A French Merchant who dwelt here many Years, has just now gi­ven me an Account of a Procession, which he had often seen, and which I have a great mind to relate to you before I finish my Let­ter.Mark 11.7. They at Verona believe after that Jesus Christ had made his Entrance into Jerusalem, he gave a Key of the Fields to the She or [Page 125] He-Ass, which he made use of to ride on, being willing that the Beast should pass the rest of his days in quiet and liberty. They add, that the Ass, weary with ha­ving so long gnaw'd on the Pastures of Palestine, resolv'd to visit foreign Countries, and to undertake a Voyage by Sea; he had no need, say they, of a Ship, the Waves became smooth, and the liquid Ele­ment as hard as Crystal. After he had visited the Islands of Cyprus, Rhodes, Candie, Malta, and Sicily, he pass'd over the Gulf of Venice, and staid some days in the place where that famous City was since built: But the Air seeming to him to be un­healthful, and the Pasturage bad among the Salt and Marish Isles, Martin conti­nu'd his Voyage, and mounted the Ri­ver of Adige dry-shod, and coming up to Ve­rona, he made choice of that for his last Residence. After he had liv'd there some Years, like an Ass of Estate and Quali­ty, he died at last, to the great Grief of the Con-fraternity. So lamentable and u­niversal a Braying, made the Echoes resound thro' the Country, and never was so sad a Melody heard at the Funeral of such an A­nimal, not even in Arcadia it self. But they quickly found a way to alleviate their Grief, for all the Honours imagina­ble being render'd to the blest Deceas'd, the Devotees of Verona carefully preserve the Reliques, and have put them into the Belly of an Artificial Ass, made for that purpose, where they are kept to this day, [Page 126] to the great Joy and Edification of Pious Souls. This Holy Statue is kept in the Church of Nostre Dame of the Organs, and Four of the lustiest Monks of the Convent, in Pontifical Habits, carry it so­lemnly in Procession two or three times in the Year.

You know Catullus was of Verona.

LETTER XV.

THE Country between Verona and Vi­cenza is fruitful, well manur'd, and al­most every where level: The Trees are planted in Chequers, on which the Vines are rais'd, and spread themselves among the Branches; and the Ground is carefully till'd. We din'd at a little Village call'd La Torre, where are the Bounds between the Veronese and Vicentin. The Wine of this Country is of so faint a Sweetness, that it is noxious to [Page 127] the Stomach. Yet there are Wines at Verona that are much esteem'd, and I think I have read in Suetonius, that Augustus made them his ordinary Drink. The Bread is as if it were Earth, tho' very white and excellent Flower; it is because they know not how to make it: Together with this, they treat­ed us with a Dish of grey Pease, fried in Oil, and this was all our Feast. Is it not ve­ry strange that we should be in danger to die of Hunger in a good Country, after we had fed plentifully among the Rocks and Mountains? The Soil is fat, and consequently the Ways bad; inso­much that at this Season, there was need of Seven or Eight Horses to draw the Waggon-Coaches; they put them all to­gether under the Coachman's Whip, that he may drive them without a Postili­on.

Vicenza is less by half than Verona, VICENZA. and is only encompass'd with tottering Walls. Three or Four little Rivers meet there, by which divers Commodities are im­ported, but none of them are Navigable. Our Guide carried us to some of the Churches: The Coronata is well paved and wainscotted: That of the Religious of St. Catharines, hath Three fair Altars. There are some good Pictures in the Cathedral; and they show us, likewise, in the Choir a Work of carv'd Stones, which the Sex­ton prais'd very much, tho' the matter be of little value; the Performance is better than the Design. The Town-House is [Page 128] very indifferent, yet they boast of it as a rare Piece. For to tell you the truth, it is a difficult matter to accommodate one's self to the high-flown Discourses of the Ita­lians. It is impossible for them to speak modestly; for when they would praise any thing, they do it with exaggerations; and he who hath the good fortune to please them, is always Wonderfull, Marvelous, and Incomparable. We have already seen I know not how many pretended Eighth Wonders of the World. When we complain'd that we saw at Verona, so few considerable Buildings in so great a City, and which had formerly been so famous; they promi­sed us that we should find Mountains and Miracles at Vicenza. They told us Vicenza was full of stately Palaces, of an extraor­dinary sumptuous Architecture. These were indeed big Words; but 'tis certain that never any found themselves more dis­appointed than we were when we came to see these pretended magnificent Palaces of Vicenza; for we must use the Phrases of the Italians, who must be allow'd to call what­soever they please, a Palace. A little Citizen's Hall, which you in England call a Parlour, in Italy hath the Title of The Chamber of Audience, when you may as well give the Title of Embassies to a Footboy's Message. It is all one to me, whether they call the Lacqueys Embassadors, or all their Houses L'Ouvres. This is the best in the World in Italian; but for us, or others, who are no Italians, we cannot suffer our selves to be [Page 129] surprized with their Palaces, nor their most Sumptuous. I know not very well what the Word Palace signifies in your Tongue; but those who are somewhat versed in our Language, ought to have no regard to the resemblance of the Word Palais, to that of Palazzo, as if they signified the same thing. The Word Palais is not used so prodigally amongst us, as that of Palazzo is amongst the Italians; it imports a great deal more, and excites another Idea in the Hearer. In a Word, I find that they give the Name of Palazzi to an infinite Number of ordinary Houses, to which that of Palais does not at all belong. And to apply all that has been said to the lofty Palaces of Vicenza. I maintain in general, that they may be call'd handsome Houses, and no more. Perhaps there are Three or Four for which that Name might seem too mean; but I cannot tell how they can be term'd very fine; for to speak properly, they are but well-disguis'd, not fine Houses: That is to say, there is nothing fair but the Frontispiece, and that is no more than indifferent, for they are often built with Plaister instead of hewn Stone. I insist the more on this, because it is hard to root out the old Mistake, with which many People are possess'd, about the multitude of Palaces in Italy; and I would endea­vour always to represent things as they are.

Our Guide finding that we were no great Admirers of his Palaces, fansi'd however, [Page 130] that he knew a way to surprize us; and having insensibly oblig'd us to follow him, he drew us on through the Dirt, a good half League from the City, to shew us a little Country-House, which belonged to the Marquess of Capra. It is a square Building, in the midst whereof is a little Hall, under a small Dome, and at each Angle of the square two Chambers and a Closet. There are some good Pictures in it; and the situation being on a little ascent, contributes to render the place very agreeable.

Coming back from this House, he car­ry'd us to our Lady of Montheric. It is fa­mous in this Country, and the Prior told us the whole Story of it very seriously. You are to know only that this Image of our Lady came out of the Earth, in the very place where you see her: And that they have often in vain endeavoured to transport her to Vicenza; Ten thousand Men together, as the Prior told us, were not able to carry her. The Picture by Paul of Verona, which is in their Dining-Room, is the best Piece in the Convent, it represents St. Gregory at Table with some Pilgrims.

There are some Ruines of an ancient Amphitheatre at Vicenza, but they told us, they were almost all hid under new Buil­dings. The Theatre which is in the Aca­demy of the Olympicks, is of the famous Palladio. The Fabrick is none of the largest, and they use it but on certain occasions, which rarely happen. The Triumphal-Arch, [Page 131] which is without the Gates, at the entrance of the Plain, which is called the Field of Mars, is in imitation of the An­tick way of Building, by the same Palla­dio.

The Garden of the Count of Valmanara, is a thing much boasted of in this City, and the Inscription which we read over the Garden-Gate, put us in great expectations. You have here the Contents of it: ‘Stop, dear Traveller, thou, who searchest for rare things, and enchanted places, for here thou mayst find satisfaction. Enter into this deli­cious Garden, and taste abundantly of all sorts of Pleasures: The Count of Valmanara gives thee leave, &c.’ In effect, they once design'd to have made this a very agreeable place. There is a Canal, Divisions or Knots, and Closets; be­sides an Alley of Citrons and Oranges, which is indeed a fine thing.

This Mounsieur the Count puts me in mind of a pleasant Story, which I have read in several Authors. They say that Charles the Fifth being at Vicenza, a great number of Gentlemen and rich Burgesses of that place, pressed him very much to grant them the Title of Counts: Charles still drew back, but in the end, to be rid of these troublesome People, said aloud, Well, well, I make you all Counts, both the City and Suburbs. From this time, saith the History, [Page 132] nothing is more common than the Counts of Vicenza.

The way from Vicenza to Padua is not unlike to that between Verona and Vicenza. We passed the Tezenza about three quarters of an hour from Vicenza, and the Brenta an hour from Padua. I know not whether the Antiquaries are agreed concerning this Brenta: Some pretend it was the Timavus, and others, that it is one of the Medoacus's: The first opinion seems least probable, be­cause of the River Timavus, Bologna la grassa venetia la guasta, ma Padoa la Passa. which passeth by Friuli, and which is apparently the true one; but let us leave them to end their difference, and come to Padua.

The Paduan is a level Country, and ex­treamly fruitful, yet Padua is a poor and ill-peopled City. The Circuit of it is great: but there are large places in it that are void of Buildings, and many Houses void of In­habitants.PADUA, called the Learned. This City was subjected to the Venetians, in the Year 1406. In 1519. they pulled down the Suburbs, in which were 10 Monasteries, 6 Churches, 7 Hospitals, and about 3000 Houses. Schrad. The ancient Padua hath still re­tain'd its first Walls; but since it fell into the hands of the Venetians, they have com­prized the Suburbs in the City, and com­passed it with a Fortification, which was never good, and is at present ready to fall.

There are Porches or Piazza's, almost throughout the whole City, which are very convenient to shelter People from Rain, but otherwise make the Streets narrow and dark, and give opportunity for those fre­quent [Page 133] Robberies and Murders, which they call at Padua, the Qui va li? What can be more strange, than that the Scholars of Padua, should be priviledg'd to knock down those whom they meet, and to break Legs and Arms, without any hope of Justice? For, as soon as Night falls, they arm them­selves, and going out in Companies, hide themselves between the Pillars of the Porches; and while the poor Passenger is struck with terror at the hearing of the Question, Qui va li? without perceiving who makes it; another at the same time cries, Qui va la? without giving a Man an opportunity to go forward or backward; the unhappy Creature must perish between the Qui va li, and the Qui va la: of which these Sparks make but a Sport. This is what they call the Qui va li of Padua.

It often happens that these Scholars kill unknown Persons, or some of themselves, to maintain the privilege that they have assum'd. 'Tis true, these Indignities are not daily committed, for People keep themselves as close as they can out of harms way. But it may be said, without exaggeration, that not a Month passeth, in which two or three Mischances do not happen. Not but that this unbridled Licence might be easily restrain'd; but Venice, which insists on the fineness of her Politicks, and pushes them to the utmost, would have this Scourge for the Paduans, and this Petrolle which costs nothing. I will tell you the rest another time.

[Page 134]I had yesterday a long discourse with some Persons, who believe that Padua was formerly a Sea-Port, both because the An­cients speak of it, as a very rich Place, and because when they dig Wells or Foundations of Houses, they find in divers places Anchors and Masts. I know not if this Opinion may seem reasonable to you; but since History hath given us no account of it, I should rather have recourse to a more easie way, to explain how Vessels come up to Padua, which is, that there was formerly some great Canal.

They affirm also, that Padua was built by Antenor, and they show there a great repository for Bones, in which they have placed the pretended Bones of this old Trojan, and it is commonly called Antenor's Tomb. But this Tradition is not very cer­tain: it cannot indeed be denied, thatSee the 1st Book of the Eneids. An­tenor came into this Country: And 'tis no less certain, that he built a City which was called Patavium. But the question is whe­ther our Padua be the Patavium of Antenor, Messala Corvi­nus saith, that the Arms of Troy were placed by An­tenor in the Temple of Padua; and that they were a Sow in a Field Or. for this Opinion is not improbable, yet there are Arguments against it, as well as for it.

As for the Tomb it is a meer Bauble. It is about four hundred and odd Years, that they were working on the Foundations of an Hospital, and dug up a Leaden-Coffin, near which they found a Sword. The [Page 135] Coffin had no Inscription, and upon the Sword were some Leonin Verses of barba­rous Latin. Judge, I pray you, whether this may not as well agree with the Trojan Horse as Antenor. In the mean time the immoderate love which some People have for every thing that bears the Stamp of An­tiquity, has made some Persons dream, that they had found the Tomb of Antenor. A certain Man called Lupatus, who was then Magistrate, and a Man of some Learning, had also his Reasons or Prejudices in favour of these Bones: And he it was, who some Years after, put them in that renowned Tomb, which they call at this day the Tomb of Antenor, and which is to be seen at the entrance of St. Laurence's-street. He caused four Verses to be Engraved on it, and which, as you may believe are in Gothick Characters:

There are some who read, Patriae vox, and others, Patriam. But they are both in the wrong, for the ae of the word Patriae is plain; and if one would joyn the m, which follows with Patriae, it must be read Pa­triaem. This m is nearer to vox than Patriae, nor can it be doubted to be an m, because the same Character is found in divers words which follow. I confess that Muox signifies [Page 136] nothing no more thin Patriaem; and turn these Verses which way you please, you will never find any good sence.

To conclude the account of this Inscripti­on, there are some who have made a false Remark upon the word caesa, as if it were writ with a single e, but they have not observed theae eciril, which serves for an ae; besides, there are, you know, old Impressi­ons, which never regard this Dipthong. Enetum is written without an h, and there is no punctuation observ'd throughout. I know not what to say of the C. which is put to the beginning of the Verse. You must further know, that Doctor Lupetus would have his own Tomb placed near that of his dear Antenor, and they remain at present side by side.

The Church of St.They call him St. An­thony of Padua, because he died there, and was there buried, but he was a Fran­ciscan of Lis­bon, and Co­temporary with St. Francis d'Assise. Spond. Bel­larmin, Tri­themius, &c. Anthony of Lisbon, is very great, and full of fine things, as well in Carving as in Painting. There are many magnificent Tombs in it, among which we observ'dMade in the Year 1555. by Augustin Zotto. that of Alexander Con­tarini, Admiral of the Republick, and Procu­rator of St. Mark, and that of Count Horatio Sicco, who was killed at Vienna, in the last Siege. There cannot be seen a fairer Picture in Fresco, than that of the Chapel of St. Felix, it was done by the famous Giotto, who excelled in that sort of work. But that which is the most considerable in [Page 137] this Church is theForty foot long, and twenty five broad. Ang. Port. Chapel of St. Anthony, the great Protector of Padua, whom, by way of eminency they call the Saint. His Body lies under the Altar, which is inriched with a thousand precious things. They say that the Bones of the Saint cast forth a very sweet Odour; those who have the Curiosi­ty to smell them, go behind the Altar to a certain part which is not well joyned, and where it were easie to thrust in some Balsam, or such like odoriferous thing. All the Chapel is covered with a Basso relievo Work of white Marble, in which are re­presented the principal Miracles of St. An­thony. Almost the whole work was done by Tullius Lombardus, and Sansovin. There are also six and thirty great silver Lamps, which burn Night and Day round the Altar: I will not trouble you with that medley of Stories, which those who shew this Chapel, are wont to relate concerning their Saint.

From this Church we went to that of St. Justina, which is very great and beau­tiful, though it be far from the Per­fection to which they design to advance it. It is pav'd with Marble-squares, of red, black, and white; the Roof of the great Body of the Church hath seven Domes, which give it both Light and Ornament. There are also two on each Arm of the Cross. Besides the great Altar, which is a stately Work, there are twenty four others of fine Marble, and all different in Colour. And whereas the Church of St. Anthony is full of Monuments, they will [Page 138] not suffer any in this: There is only one Inscription, which says, That the Church was built at the only charge of the Con­vent. TheThis Work was perform'd in 22 Years, by a French­man called Ricard. Basso relievo of the Benches of the Choir is admirable, and the design is fine throughout: which repre­sents the Prophecies of the Old Testa­ment, relating to Jesus Christ, with their accomplishment in the New. The Mar­tyrdom of St. Justina, which is over the great Altar, was done by Paul of Verona.

I will not undertake to give you a par­ticular description of this Church. The Monastery is also vastly great, it hath six Cloysters, and many Courts and Gardens. I will not trouble you with an account of the Image of the VirginSee Baron. an. 726, and 730., which flew from Constantinople when it was taken by the Turks: Nor will I add any thing concern­ing the Bodies of the Saints, or the other Relicks, of which this Church is full, for so we should never end its Story.

The great place which is near to it, was formerly called the Field of Mars. I can­not imagine why People,256 Foot long, and 86 broad, Angelo Por­tenari who love names of Honour so much, have robb'd it of its ancient Title, to call it simply, Prato della valle, the Meadow of the Valley.

This Hall is of the Figure of a Rhomboides, and is not su­stained by any Pillars. Peter Aponus who was the Architect, and a famous Necromancer, saith Cardan, wrought the Vault with Constellati­ons and Astronomical Figures, which remain still to be seen.The Hall of the Town-House is very large and dark; it is one hundred and ten Paces long, and forty broad, and there [Page 139] are to be seen in it many Monuments which have been erected for illustrious Per­sons. Padua had a happy chance to redeem its Founder out of the obscurity in which he had lain for near three thousand Years: It was but just also, that the first unknown Tomb they met withal in this City, should serve to honour the Memory of Titus Livi­us, the famous Historian who was born there.

The discovery of this Tomb, in the Year 1413. was attended with the universal joy and acclamations of the People. There was found in the Gardens of St. Justina, a shrine of Lead, not unlike to that of Ante­nor; and they presently concluded, that it was the Coffin of Titus Livius, because that Historian was the Priest of Concord; and the Convent of the Benedictines of St. Justina, is built on the Ruines of a Temple, which was of old Consecrated to that Goddess. When the noise of this dis­covery was spread abroad, all the City run thither, with transports of an inexpressible Joy and Zeal. The People touched their Beads on the Shrine of the supposed Titus Livius, as if he had been some new Saint. Many private Persons offered to be at the Charge of a Mausolaeum, provided they might erect it in their own Houses; and every one rejoyc'd that he was born in that happy Age, when this precious Treasure was discovered. In fine, Titus Livius, after he had been robb'd of his Jaws by a People greedy of Relicks, was put into a Coffin of [Page 140] Wood, that he might more easily be carried. They loaded it with Branches of Laurel, and the best of the City carried it in Tri­umph to the Palace of Justice; in which place, after many Deliberations and Cere­monies, they erected the Monument which is now to be seen, and to which they after­ward added this Inscription, which was found in the Neighbourhood of the place where the Temple of Concord formerly stood.

• Vivens Fecit.
  V. F.
• Titus Livius
• Liviae. T. F.
• Quartae L.
• Halys
• Concordialis
• Patavi
• Sibi & suis
• Omnibus.

Over this Inscription, they have placed a Head of Marble, which goes for the Head of Titus Livius, though Men of Learning know the contrary. It is true, the In­scription is ancient, as well as the Head, but there has been aBy L' Orsato. Dissertation lately Publish'd concerning this subject; which, in my Opinion, clearly proves, that the Titus Livius of this Inscription, was only a freed Man of one of the Daughters of Titus Li­vius the Historian: So that the Bones, the Head, and the Inscription, are only bor­rowed Pieces.

[Page 141]To leave the Fables and Incertainties of Antiquity, and come to something that is new and real; I shall give you an account of another Monument, which we saw in this same Hall, and which is worthy of Observation. Some have exalted Susanna beyond Lucretia, but it may be justly said that the Marchioness D' Obizzi, of whom I shall presently speak, hath surpassed Su­sanna and Lucretia both; since when she saw Death present before her, she resolv'd to bear it couragiously, rather than to suffer her Chastity to be Injur'd. A Gentleman of Padua, was passionately in love with this Lady, who was young and beautiful, and found an opportunity to get into her Chamber when she was in Bed, in the Ab­sence of the Marquess her Husband. Pro­bably the Gentleman first used all the ways of sweetness and perswasion, before he pro­ceeded to acts of Violence. But however, when he saw he could prevail neither way, his Love turned to Fury, and Rage so transported him, that he stabbed this Ver­tuous Lady. See the Inscription:

Venerare pudicitiae simulachrum & victimam, Lucretiam de Dondis ab Horologio Pyaeneae de Obizzonibus, Orciani Marchionis Uxorem. Haec inter noctis tenebras maritales asserens tedas, fu­riales recentis Tarquinii faces, casto cruore ex­tinxit. Sic (que) Romanam Lucretiam, intemerati tori gloria vincit. Tantae suae Heroinae gene­rosis manibus hanc dicavit aram Civitas Pata­vina Decreto. Die 31. Decembris Anni 1661.

[Page 142]Are you not satisfied, Sir, that Padua hath done a most just Action, by taking care to eternize the Memory of so rare a Virtue, that met with such a barbarous Treatment? But perhaps you would not take it amiss to have the whole Story related to you.

When the Marchioness was surprized in her Bed, her only Son, about five Years old was with her; but the Murtherer ha­ving carried him into a Neighbouring Cham­ber, before he perpetrated his horrid Vil­lany, the Child could not see all that pas­sed. The thing being brought to light, the Gentleman was taken into Custody, upon suspicion: It was known that he had an Inclination to the Marchioness. The Child gave some Information; some Neigh­bours affirm'd, they had seen the Gentle­man in that Quarter: They found a Button of his Sleeve on the Bed, fellow to that which he still wore; and these things were strong Arguments of his Guilt. They put him to the Torture, both ordinary and ex­traordinary, but he still denied the Fact; and after fifteen Years Imprisonment, his Friends wrought so hard, that they saved him, and even, as I suppose, obtained his Liberty; which yet he enjoyed not long, for some Months after his Deliverance, the young Marquess, which was the Child I spoke of, shot him with a Pistol in the Head, and so revenged the Death of his Mother. He is at present in Germany, in the Emperor's Service.

[Page 143]There are here many Cabinets of Curi­osities, and a great number of skilful Anti­quaries. But it must be acknowledged, that Mr. Patin, Professor of Physick, excels all the Criticks in the World, in explaining the Intricacies of Antiquity. For 'tis cer­tain, that never any Man was Master of a truer and more judicious Taste for these Curiosities, of a more extensive Knowledge in all other respects, or of a more obliging and communicative Temper.

The Amphitheatre of Padua was greater than that of Verona, but there remains no­thing of it but miserable Ruines. I must further tell you, before I end my Letter, that I went lately into the Tennis-Court, and was very much surpriz'd to find the Walls white, and the Balls black, and Rackets as large as Sieves; but it is the Custom of this Country.

LETTER XVI.

IT was an extraordinary satisfaction to me to meet with your Letters in this place; besides the pleasure I had to learn [Page 144] good news of you; you have done me a singular kindness, in proposing Questions to me, about those things concerning which you desire to be most particularly inform'd. Assure your self, Sir, my best endeavours shall not be wanting to answer your Demands exactly: I entreat you to continue the same Method hereafter, that I may be better enabl'd to send you such Accounts as may be acceptable to your self, and those of our Friends, to whom you communicate them.

You desire me to tell you sincerely, whe­ther our present Travels be really pleasant to us, or at least whether the pleasure we take in them be not over-balanced by the trouble which they give us. I am not at all surprised that you should entertain such a doubt of it; for though we are not a­mong Wild Bears, or in the Desarts of Arabia, yet are we not without some diffi­culties. The Weather is very rough; the way of Travelling ordinarily unpleasant, and the days so short, that we get late in at Night, and rise very early: We oftentimes meet with hard Lodging, and worse Diet; and besides, we are exposed to many dan­gers. Nevertheless, with a good Stock of Health, Money, Chearfulness and Patience, we have surmounted these difficulties, even almost without taking notice of them. Custom makes all things easie, and is a so­vereign and universal Remedy. We take some days of rest when we think we want it: The variety and perpetual Novelty of [Page 145] Objects recreates the Spirits as well as the Eyes. A little weariness supplies the want of a Bed, and Exercise sharpens our Ap­petites. Offa & torus herbaceus, famis & la­boris dulcissimae medullae sunt. With good Furrs we defended our selves against the Cold, in spite of all the Frosts and Snows of the Alps: In fine, without alledging those general Reasons, which render Tra­vels profitable and pleasant, I will positively tell you, that the tenderest and most deli­cate Persons of our Company, have easily overcome all those Obstacles, which might hinder the satisfaction which we expected. Our stay at Venice will perfectly recruit us, and when we shall proceed on our Travels, the sweetness of the Spring will insensibly begin to succeed the rigours of the Win­ter.

As to the rest, I have let a whole Month pass without writing to you, since we arrived in this City, that I might more cer­tainly inform my self of the things with which I intend to entertain you. I will tell you nothing but what I have seen my self, or of which I have had particular Information. You are in the right to con­clude, that I will not undertake to give you a description of Venice; that would be a work too tedious, and foreign to my de­sign. Yet I will not affect to tell you only such new and singular things as were never mention'd by any other. Being willing to be ignorant what others have written; I will speak as an Eye-witness, and represent [Page 146] to you, as naturally as I can, the principal part of such things as I shall judge worthy of observation, without giving any heed to what others have said. You will per­ceive, that I take care throughout to answer your particular Questions: If you have forgotten any thing, you may acquaint me with it in your next Letters. Venice is so singular a place, look on it which way you please, that I have proposed to my self to consider it with care: I have filled all my Memorials; and I hope I shall be able to give a satisfactory answer to most of your Questions. But I must advertise you of two things, before I put an end to this little Preface. The first is, that I reserve some of the most notable Observations, to be com­municated to you on some other occasion. The other is, that I will not oblige my self to any order in my Observations, but re­late things as I chanc'd to meet with them, as I have already intimated to you in ano­ther place.

We parted from Padua on the twentieth of the last Month, and came hither betimes that Evening: There are many good Vil­lages on the way, and a great many Houses of Pleasure, which belong to noble Vene­tians, and were built by Palladio. The Ausbourg-Post brought us to Mestré, which is a little City on the Bank of the Gulf, Five Miles from Venice. I have read some­where in Mezeray's History, that the Adriatick-Sea was frozen in the YearOthers say in 859. 860, and that they went in a Coach from the [Page 147] main Land to Venice. As for us, we were oblig'd to take Gondola's at Mestré, and were about an Hour and an half on the Water.

That I may give you a true Idea of Ve­nice, VENICE, call'd the Rich. I must in the first place describe those Waters in the midst of which it is seated. The general Opinion of Geographers is, That Venice is built in the Sea, and this in some measure is true; nevertheless it re­quires Explication: It is certain it is not the Main Sea, but drown'd Lands, yet such as were drown'd before the Building of Venice; that is, at the least Thirteen or Fourteen Hundred Years ago. The great­est Vessels float in some places on those Waters, and there are Chanels by which those that are of no greater Burden than Two Hundred Tuns, can go up to Venice it self. The Sea there hath a free Com­munication with the Main Sea, by the Ebbing and Flowing Tides. The Oysters and other Shell-Fish stick to the Foundati­ons of the Houses of Venice and Murano, as they do in other places to the Rocks; so that I think it may be truly said, that Venice is in the Sea. Yet since 'tis plain that this drown'd Country was formerly a Marish; these Waters have but very little depth, and after all, this is not the true and ancient Sea: This Extent of Water is at Venice call'd only the Lake or Marish, and they gave it the Name of Lacuna; I observe that the greatest part of Strangers adopt this Word, every one disguising [Page 148] it according to his own Language, for want of a fit term to express it. Lacune hath another signification in French, which perhaps is the reason that they change here the C into G and call it Lagune. Tho' this be a barba­rous Word, and newly invented, yet I am resolv'd to make use of it, such as it is, rather than give my self the trouble to frame a better.

They have Mills, and other Machines, to empty the Mud and Ouse, which ga­ther continually, and discover themselves in several places, when the Sea is at the lowest Ebb: They have turn'd the Mouth of the Brent, and some other Rivers, to prevent their throwing of Mud and Sand into the Lagunes; and that the Earth may not regain from the Sea, which would be very prejudicial to Venice, whose Strength and Security consists in its Situation. It is true, that if this City is oblig'd to labour incessantly, to keep the Waters which en­viron it at a certain depth, to prevent its being re-united to the Continent; so it would not be for its advantage in every re­spect, that these Waters should have a great and general depth; because while things remain in or near the same Posture they are now in, it, is, in a manner, impossible to approach to Venice, either by Sea or Land. When Pepin, of whom we spake not long since, undertook to expel the Doge Mau­rice, and his Son John, who was his Asso­ciate. He parted from Ravenna with his Fleet, imagining with full Sails, to pass [Page 149] every-where. But whilst the Doge's Ships steer'd their Course through the navigable Chanels, without meeting with any Mis­fortunes, Pepin's Vessels stuck, and sunk in the Mud on all sides; so that after a great loss, he was constrain'd to fly with the Re­mainders of his wreck'd Fleet. It is mani­fest, that could this Fleet have passed eve­ry where with full Sails, this Expedition had succeeded better. It is about Three hundred and odd Years since the Genoeses receiv'd the like treatment.

I believe you do by this time sufficient­ly comprehend what is meant by these La­gunes of Venice: Represent then also to your self the City of Venice, which rises out of the midst of these Waters, with Thirty or Forty large Steeples, and is at least a League and an a half distant from the Land. It is certainly a very surprising Object to see this great City without any Walls, or Ramparts, to be beaten on every side with the Waves, and yet to remain on its Piles as firm as on a Rock.

I know very well that all Geographers have written, that Venice is compos'd of Seventy two Isles; I will not controvert so generally receiv'd an Opinion: But I must confess, that I can by no means conceive what these Isles should be; and I dare as­sure you, that this Account gives a false Notion of the Platform and Situation of this City. It would seem by this Descri­ption, that there were Seventy two little Hills, one near the other, and that these [Page 150] little Eminencies being all inhabited, had at last form'd the City of Venice, which is not at all probable. Venice is all flat, and built on Piles in the Water. The Water washes the Foundations of almost all the Houses, to the height of Four or Five Feet, and the Canals are always of equal breadth. 'Tis true, they have made the best use of several spaces, of a reasonable bigness, which may, indeed, give occasion to be­lieve, that there was formerly some Land there, but not Seventy two Isles.

For the Streets, they are very narrow, and seem to have been fill'd and rais'd with Mud and Rubbish; for it is not at all probable that they have natural Founda­tions; and besides, if all the Divisions which the Canals make, were reckon'd for Isles, we should find near Two hundred instead of Seventy two. It might be far­ther observ'd, that the number of these Isles might be infinitely increas'd, and new ones made in any place, by fixing Poles, and building Houses upon them. There are Eighteen, or Twenty such like Islands scatter'd up and down in the Lagunes, without counting Palestrina, Ma­malocco, and Eight or Ten others, which consist of solid Earth, and are truly Isles.

We are not to take notice of what is commonly said of the greatness of Venice; some give it Eight Miles circuit, others allow but Seven. As for me, I assure you Venice is neither Eight nor Seven Miles in [Page 151] compass. They reckon Five Miles from Mestré to Venice, which way we came in an Hour and an half, with Two Rowers; and we sail'd round Venice in the same space of time, with Two other Rowers, who made neither more nor less haste than those of Mestré. Judge then by this, of the Circuit of that City: Consider too, that our Gondola, was many times obliged to fetch a Compass, to avoid the little Capes which the City makes in several places, and by consequence the Line that it made was greater than the true Circuit of the City. Besides, to mark the Circumference of a City, without considering its Figure, is not a competent way to determine the largeness of its Content.This is what made Polybi­us say, That Sparta, which had but Forty eight Stades in compass, was twice as big as Megalopolis, which had Fifty. [A Stade contain'd 125 Geometri­cal Paces.] A very indiffe­rent Mathematician may demonstrate clear­ly, that a City which is near Eight Miles in compass, for Example, may contain a less number of Houses, than another City which is only Four Miles, or less if you please. This depends upon the regularity or irregularity of the Figure. This Truth, which is undeniable, is the reason that I never will never pretend to represent the bigness of Cities by the measure of their Circuit, for that might betray you into ve­ry considerable Errors. I shall ordinarily content my self with telling you, that a City is Great, or very Great; Little, or very Little: And I am persuaded that such Expressions as these, may give you a suffi­cient Idea of its Greatness.

[Page 152]The number of Inhabitants is another thing which is hastily determined, but sel­dom well examin'd. It is commonly re­ported at Venice, that there are Two or three hundred thousand Souls in the City, and some have advanc'd the number to Four hundred thousand; but we must not rely upon these Computations. When the Trade of Venice flourish'd, 'tis probable that the number of its Inhabitants was much greater than it is at present: But if we may give credit to the Report of a Person who hath been settled here for a long time, and assur'd me, that his Calculation is very exact; Venice doth not at present contain more than an Hundred and forty thou­sand Souls, comprehending therein the Isle of Giudeca.

Those who please themselves to represent Venice as a very populous City, take great care to inculcate, that it hath neither Gar­dens, nor void Places, nor Church-yards, and that the Streets are very Narrow: But when, on the other hand, they would describe the Beauty of Venice, they mag­nifie its Gardens, its Places, and the breadth and number of its Canals. I read the other Day in a Venetian Author, that he counted in Venice Fifty three Publick Places, and Three hundred and thirty five Gardens. Thus you may see how variou­sly things are presented. But to speak the Truth, there is both Truth and Falshood in either of these Reports; I will not di­spute but that there may be Fifty three [Page 153] Spaces, great and small, to which this Au­thor hath thought fit to give the name of Places; and the same may be said of his Gar­dens. But if we consider these Places and Gardens particularly, we must conclude him too prodigal of his honourable Titles. To speak properly, there is but one Place at Ve­nice, the famous and magnificent Place of St. Mark. But let us allow him the liber­ty to bestow that Name on Five or Six void Spaces more, which have some small Extent; yet all this comes far short of Fifty three Places. There are also some Gardens here and there, particularly on the side of Santa Maria del' Orto; but if we set aside Fifteen or Twenty, or should allow Thirty, or Thirty five, to deserve to be so call'd, I can positively averr, that the Three hundred which remain, would not, one with another, be Ten Foot square; and are not these very noble Gardens? Nor is the other Account exactly true; for besides that Venice may have Gardens and void Spaces, there are many parts of it very slenderly inhabited. It is true, in­deed, there are no Church-yards: And as for the Argument that is brought from the narrowness of the Streets, it is a petty Sophism, that may be easily refuted, by saying, that it is nothing but a bare Asser­tion. The Streets are streight and narrow, I confess, and so narrow, that the jostling of Elbows in the most frequented Places, is a great inconvenience; but I am of O­pinion, that the Canals ought to be rec­koned [Page 154] instead of Streets; and if the Ca­nals were fill'd and pav'd, there would be no reason to complain of narrow Streets in Venice.

But I must tell you, since we are on this Subject, that all the City is so mangled with these Canals and Streets, that there are almost no Houses but what you may go to by Water as well as by Land. Not that every Canal is border'd with a double Quay, as in Holland, for the conveniency of those who go on Foot: There are, in­deed, some of these; but very often the Canal occupies all the Space from one Range of Buildings to another. The Streets are in the little Isles that are form'd by the Canals; so that there is not any part of the City, to which one may not go either with or without a Gondola. 'Tis true, all these little Passages, and all the Turns that must be made to find the Bridges, do make Ve­nice a true Labyrinth.

The famous Place of St. Mark was the first Place which our Curiosity prompted us to visit, after our Arrival at Venice; and it is really the Soul and Glory of that City. The Church of St. Mark fronts one of the Ends of this Place, and that of St. Geminian the other; and the Procuraties or Lawyer's Offices and Lodgings, which are built with Marble, and are both very fine and regular, border the two sides of it with great Piazza's; which much en­large the Place, and at the same time con­tribute to its convenience. This Place is [Page 155] Two hundred and fourscore Foot long, and One hundred and ten broad. When you come from the Church of St. Gemi­nian towards that of St. Mark, and in­stead of entring there, turn to the Right­hand; the Place turns also in form of a Square; and this Second Place, whose ex­tremity reaches to the Sea, is Two hun­dred and fifty Paces long, and Fourscore broad: This is that which they call the Broglio. The Palace of the Doge is on one side of it, and the Procuraties are continu­ed on the other. All this consider'd toge­ther, makes an admirable Show, and may pass for a most magnificent Place.

The Tower of St. Mark is near the An­gle of the Square within, and does in some measure spoil the Symmetry of the place: This Tower is Three hundred and sixty Foot high, comprehending the An­gel, which serves for the Weather-Cock. It was formerly all over gilt, and when the Sun shined upon it, those at Sea might perceive it at Thirty Miles distance; but now the Gold being gone, it scarcely ap­pears. You ascend this Tower by Stairs, without Steps, like these which I have else­where describ'd; which is to be seen at Ge­neva. You may easily judge of the Beau­ty, Variety, and Rarity of the Landskip, which is discover'd from thence.

The Broglio is the Walk of the Nobles: they take up always one side of the Place; sometimes for the Sun, and sometimes for the Shade, according to the Season. As their [Page 156] Number is great, and they are ordinarily to be seen no where else, the Broglio is the general Rendezvous, where Visits are made, and most Affairs treated of. It is not per­mitted to mingle amongst them on that that side of the Promenade which they oc­cupy; but the other side is free. This place is so particularly destin'd, and set apart for them, that when a young Noble-man is come to the Age required for admittance into the Council, and to take the Robe, the first Day he puts it on, Four Noble-men of his Friends do ceremoniously in­troduce him into the Broglio; and when a­ny of them are banish'd the Council, the entrance into the Broglio is likewise for­bidden to them.

It was about the beginning of the Ninth Age, that the Merchants of Venice brought the Corps of St. Mark thither; they had, as is said, by I know not what chance, dug it out of the Earth, in the City of Alexandria in Egypt. And as there is a cer­tain Tradition, which tells us, that this E­vangelist being in Prison, Christ appeared to him, and saluted him in these Words; Peace be to thee, Mark, my Evangelist. The Senate of Venice receiv'd also the Body of the Saint with the same Words, when it was brought to their City: It is for this that you see them written upon the open Book, held by the Lion of St. Mark, in the Arms of Venice. You may imagine, there was great rejoycing for the possessi­on of the Relicks of this Evangelist; which [Page 157] it seems they could give no greater Testi­mony of, than by preferring him, as they did, to poor St. Theodore, the ancient Pa­tron of the Republick, who had not given them the least cause of Complaint. But they stopt not here; for besides divers o­ther Honours which they paid to the Bones of the New-comer, they built the above­mention'd Church to his Honour, where they placed that Sacred Treasure. It is true, they took so little care to distinguish the Shrine or Tomb, that they know not at present precisely where it is; which is no small Affliction to those who bear an extraordinary Devotion to this Saint.

I will not stop to tell you the History of his Apparition, (which, say they, happen'd Two Hundred and seventy Years after they had brought him to Venice) when he shew­ed his Arm to the Doge, and gave him a Ring of Gold, which is carried every Year in Procession, on the Twenty fifth Day of June. Nor will I tell you an infinite number of other Stories, which are made on this Occasion.

The Patriarchal Church is dedicated to St. Peter; and that of St. Mark, as rich as it is, is but a Chapel; it is the Doge's Chapel. The Primicerio, who is the Dean of the Canons of St. Mark, wears a Mi­ter and Rochet, as Bishops do, and de­pends not on the Patriarch. I have seen him officiate on Christmas-day in great Ce­remony; the Altar being adorn'd with most rich Pieces of the Treasury: He is [Page 158] always a noble Venetian, and his Yearly Revenue amounts to almost a Thousand Pounds Sterling.

The Church of St. Mark deserves an exact Description; but that is too great a Work for a Traveller: I shall therefore content my self with giving you some general Account of it. It is a Building Square, or almost Square, of aThe Church is a Cross shortned, Greek-wise. There are ma­ny Gothick Ornaments. Greek Structure, obscure, and indifferent high, but extraordinarily enrich'd with Marble, and Mosaick Work. The Roof consists of several Domes, and that in the midst ex­ceeds the rest in greatness. Of all the Sta­tues which are on the outside of the Church, there are but Two good ones; The Adam and Eve by Riccio, which you see when you descend the great Stairs of the Palace. I speak not of the Four Brazen Horses which are over the great Portal, because they are foreign Pieces which came thither accidentally. I learn­ed from one skilled in Antiquity, that these Horses belong'd to a Chariot of the Sun, that serv'd for Ornament to a Trium­phal-Arch, which the Senate of Rome erected for Nero, after the Victory of that Prince over the Parthians; which may be still seen, saith he, on the Reverse of some of his Medals. Constantine the Great carried them from Rome to Constantinople, where he plac'd them in the Hippodrome; and at last the Venetians having made themselves Masters of that City, brought hither ma­ny of its rich Spoils, of which number [Page 159] were these Horses. One may still perceive in some places that they were gilded.

One of the things which seems to me most remarkable in the Church of St. Mark, is the vast quantity of Mosaick Work, with which it is adorn'd. All the Pavement is made of it, and all its ar­ched Roofs are cover'd with it. Because you have not seen this kind of Work, and would have me to say something of it, I will explain it to you as well as I can. Mosaick Work came from Greece, but they tell us that the use of it hath been in Italy for near Two Thousand Years past. Vitruvius who lived in the time of Augustus, speaks of it under the terms of opus sectile, pavimenta sectilia, opera musaea & musiva: It was likewise called tes­sellatum & vermiculatum opus.

All Works compos'd of little inlaid Pieces, whether they be of Stone, Wood, Ivory, Enamel, or any other Matter; or whether they be Representations of Things Natural, or only Morisk or Ja­pan Figures; all these are comprehended under the name of Mosaick: So that there are many fashions of it. You know what Inlaid Work is; you have also seen the fine Works of Florence Stone; and to speak after a looser manner, all these are Mosaick. And that which makes the great­est Ornament of the Church of St. Mark, is, that almost all the Work is of this nature. For want of Natural Stones, which would be hard to find for a Work [Page 160] so vast, and which would take up an im­mense time to polish and prepare; They have recourse to Pastes, and compositi­ons of Glass and Enamel, which they make in a Crucible or Melting-Pot; this takes a most lively and shining Co­lour, which never wears nor stains. E­very Piece of the Mosaick of St. Mark is a little Cube, which is not above Three Lines thick, or Four at the most. All the Field is of Mosaick, gilded with most bright Gold, and incorporated in the Fire, upon the Superficies of one of the Faces of the Square: And all these Figures with their Draperies and Ornaments, are co­loured according to nature, by the due lay­ing together of all the Pieces of the Work. All these little bits are disposed according to the Design which the Workman, has in view, and are strictly adjusted together in the compound Matter, or Plaister pre­par'd to receive them; which presently after becomes hard. The best of this Work is its solidity. It is more than Eight hundred and fifty Years that it hath lasted, without the least diminution of its Beauty.

The Pavement of the Church is also exceedingly Curious; and tho' it hath been in many places very much spoil'd, and in some places worn, it may be thought a kind of Miracle that such great pieces remain still entire, after they have been trod under Foot for so many Ages. They are little pieces of Jaspar, [Page 161] of Porphyrie, spotted green Marble, and Marble of divers Colours, which make al­so Compartiments different from each o­ther.

I pass by the Relicks, the miraculous Images, and the other Holy Rarities which are in this Church; only I shall menti­tion one of them, which seems to me the most curious, viz. the Rock which Moses struck in the Wilderness; It is in the Chapel of—at the end of the Font; it is a kind of greyish Marble: No­thing is more pleasant than the Three little Holes out of which they affirm the Water issued: They are plac'd Triangular­wise, about Two Fingers from each other, and the Bore of each hole is no bigger than the hollow of a Goose-Quill. I as­sure you, it is a double Miracle, that so much Water, in so little Time, should is­sue out of such narrow Holes, as should suffice to quench the thirst of an Army of Six hundred thousand Men, with all their Wives, Children, and Cattle.

They made us observe a Piece of Por­phyrie, enchas'd in the Pavement, in the middle of the Portico of the Church, over­against the great Door; it is to mark out the Place wherein Pope Alexander III. set his Foot, as they say, on the Neck of the Emperor Frederick Barbarossa, when that Prince came to submit to him for the ob­taining of a Peace. I am not ignorant that Baronius and some others, have criti­cized this History, and rejected it as a Fa­ble: [Page 162] But I must tell you, by the by, since Opportunity presents, that what-ever probability may seem to be in the Reasons, they alledge, they cannot pass for more than Suspicions and Conjectures, and can never amount to a convincing Refutation of a Story attested by so great a number of Authors.

Alexander III. was a haughty Man, his Enemies had provoked him, and he at last had the Pleasure to Triumph over an Em­perour, and Four Anti-Popes. At the ve­ry time of his flight into France, he was so proud as to sufferLouys the young King of France, and Henry II. King of Eng­land. Two Kings who met him, to alight, and both to take the Reins of his Bridle, and lead his Horse to the Lodging prepared for him. If he did this in his Disgrace, what might he not do in his Prosperity?

From the Church of St. Mark, we went into the Treasury; Three Procurators of St. Mark are the Administrators of it; and it is never open'd, but in the presence of one of them. In the first place, you see there the Relicks, Pieces of the true Cross; the Bones of the Dead; the Hair and Milk of the Virgin, &c. From thence you pass into another Chamber, where the real Treasure is kept. The greatest part of the things to be seen there, were brought from Constantinople, at the same time with the Brazen Horses, which I mentioned before. I shall only name some of the most considerable Pieces.

[Page 163]The two Crowns of the Kingdoms of Candia and Cyprus; many fine Vessels of Agat, the Root of an Emerald, and of Crystal of the Rock: These Vessels, say they, belong'd to the Cupboard of Con­stantine; a kind of Seal Eight Inches deep, and as many diameter, made of one on­ly Granat; a very fair Saphire, which, they say, weighs Ten Ounces; Twelve Cros­lets of Gold, garnished with Pearls; Twelve Head-Tires in form of Crowns, which served in certain Ceremonies for the Maids of Honour of the Empress Helena to wear; a Cup of one onely Turquoise, with Egyp­tian Characters; this Cup is Seven In­ches in diameter, and Three and a half in depth: a Picture of St. Jerome, in fine Mosaick, consisting of Pieces that are not above one Line square; and many other most rare and rich things:Camerarius saith this Coro­net is not e­steemed worth more than Two hundred Thou­sand Crowns. The Duke's Coronet is, in my Opinion, the finest of them all; the Circle is of Gold, the Bon­net of Crimson Velvet, and the whole en­rich'd with Stones and Pearls of great price. Charles Paschal pretends to prove, that this Coronet is nothing but the Phry­gian Bonnet, or Trojan Miter, which An­tenor brought into this Country, the form whereof may yet be seen in divers Antick Pieces, as in the Statue of Ganymede, which is in the Porch of the Library of St. Mark; upon some Medals of the God Lunus; in some others where you see Aeneas carrying the good Man Anchyses; You may see the form of this Coronet in the Figure of the Duke. and in Miniatures of the Ancient Manuscript of Virgil in the Va­tican.

[Page 164]This Manuscript puts me in Mind of that which they call The Gospel of St. Mark, Mr. Payen hath written that it is of the Bark of a Tree; he hath been mis-infor­med, as well as P. Mesrie, who said they were Leaves. and is here esteem'd one of the most precious things in the Treasury. I had time to consider it by a particular Favour. It consists of old Leaves of Parchment, loosed from each other, worn, torn, de­faced, and so rotted with Moisture, and other injuries of Time, to which this Book, without doubt, hath been expos'd, that one cannot touch it without some bits stick­ing to one's Fingers; and it is a hard matter to discern any thing in it: This Manuscript was in 4to, about Two Fin­gers thickness. The Remainders of it are shut up in a Box of Vermillion, gilded, made in form of a Book. There remain still some traces of imperfect Characters, but so little that scarce any thing can be distinguish'd; but by turning over the Leaves, I found Three or Four Letters well form'd: I also met with the Word KATA, written as you see. I was with the Ab­bot Lith, Library-Keeper of St. Mark, and we search'd as much as we could, with­out being able to discover any thing, on­ly that the Margent was broad, and the Lines at a great distance, and ruled with Two little Parallel Scores, to make the Writing streight and equal: This KATA. with one Δ and one Σ, which I also ob­serv'd in it, prove that it is aAlfonsus Ciaconi [...]s positively affirms, that this Manuscript is Latin; and this was one of the Reasons upon which Baronius grounded his Opinion, that St. Mark wrote his Gospel in Latin. Greek Ma­nuscript. [Page 165] But the bare Tradition is not a sufficient Demonstration that it is the Hand of St. Mark: The manner of Wri­ting which I observ'd, makes me fansie that it's rather the Work of some pro­fessed Transcriber. As to the rest, we must rely on common Fame, to believe it a Gospel rather than any thing else, since it is difficult to decypher any Let­ters in itThis History is reported by Sabellicus, Garon, Larut­ti, and many others.. The Treasury was robb'd in the Year 1427, by a certain Candiot na­medStamati ha­ving made known his de­signed Robbery to one Zachary Grio, that Grio discover­ed the Affair, and receiv'd a great Reward; but the Theif was hanged be­tween Two Columns or Marble Pillars which are at the Entrance of the Palace, over-against the Loggietta. Louis Garon affirms the Theft was valued at Two Millions of Gold. They say, that the Well in the Court of this Palace cannot be Poisoned, because Two Ʋnicorn's Horns were cast into it. See To. II. Let. XXXVI. Stamati, who broke thro' the Wall; they recover'd every thing, but the Thief was sentenced to be hanged; and, they say, he begg'd the Favour of the Judges, that he might have a Golden Halter, which Civility they granted him. Against the Wall, over the first Door of the Treasu­ry, are two Figures in Mosaick, which, as they tell you, represent St. Dominick, and St. Francis, and which, they add, were made a long time before either of them was born, according to the Prophecy of the Abbot Joachim.

The Palace of St. Mark joins to the Church: It is a great Building, after the Gothick manner, yet 'tis very Magnificent: It hath been burned four or five times; and the various Reparations of it have spoiled the Uniformity of the Structure. The side which is on the Canal, is built [Page 166] of a kind of hard Stone, brought from Istria, and the Architecture of it is highly esteem'd: Were the rest of the Building suitable, it would be a most excellent Piece. The Duke is lodg'd in this Palace; and here it is that the Council of State and all the Magi­stracy do meet. The Apartments are large, lofty, and well wainscotted, but dark in comparison of the Light now a-days requi­red in Buildings. The Hall where the Bo­dy of the Nobles assemble, which, as you know, composes the Grand Council, in which the Sovereignty of the State resides, is extraordinary large, and adorn'd with Pictures; among which are the Portraitures of the Dukes; the History of the Con­quest of Constantinople, which was taken in the Year 1192, and lost about Threescore Years after; the Picture of Frederick and Alexander is there also, of the largest size, and they have not forgot the Circumstance of the Foot on the Neck. What I ob­serv'd on this Picture, gives me opportunity to add something to what I have already told you on the same Subject. I think we ought not to take it in a rigorous and strictly literal Sence, what is commonly said; That the Pope set his His Cloaths of Gold being laid down at the Feet of A­lexander, he begg'd Pardon, and the Pope putting his Right Foot on his Neck, said the Words of the Psalm, Super Aspidem & Basiliscum am­bulabis, & conculcabis Leonem & Draconem: At which Provocation the Emperour answer'd, Non tibi, sed Petro. And the Pope treading harder, said, Et mihi, & Petro. Theodor. Valle Lit. di Pip. ch. 10. The same Story is unanimously related by a Thousand other Authors. Foot on the Em­perour's Neck. This Action would become less odious, and easier to be believ'd, when [Page 167] it shall be compared to what is represent­ed in this ancient Picture. The Pope therein appears to put his Foot lightly on the Shoulder of the Emperour, without showing any Motion of Passion: And tho' the History of the Popes mentions a great Number of 'em as outragious in their Pride, Brutishness, and Rage; and tho' this Alexander, Proud as he was, and of a revengeful Spirit, might then be guilty of any thing; nevertheless an act of Violence on such an Occasion, amongst Strangers, in a Publick Place, and in the sight of all the People, would have been, if well weigh'd, contrary to the Policy, as well as the Gravity of God's Vicar; whereas, it was not only a noble Briskness, but also the Duty of him who supplies the Place of the Master of the Universe, and whose Government extends it self over all the Kings of the World, on such an Occasion to maintain the Dignity of his Character. It is true, that the Submission and Repentance of the Vassal, ought to have been receiv'd with a Spirit of Meekness; but it was just that he should not be acquitted for a sin­gle Reverence. It was requisite, as I have said, that the Lieutenant of Jesus Christ, should maintain the Interest of his Master, and that, at least, he should make his Power be known at the same time that he granted his Pardon. And if it be obje­cted, that all this Discourse is founded on­ly on the Fancy of a Painter, who hath represented this Story as he thought fit; I [Page 168] will answer first, that this is a meer preca­rious assertion. Painters do not always give themselves a latitude, nor do they or­dinarily do it to the prejudice of an impor­tant circumstance. And I must tell you in the second place, that it is more reasonable to believe this Picture, than to form chime­rical Notions to contradict it.

Some will perhaps alledge, that the Shoulder is not the Neck, but It hink it not worth the while to reply to so frivolous an Objection. I hope you will pardon this little digression, to which I have been in­sensibly engaged, by reason of the discourse we had on this Subject.

I have yet two things to relate to you, of the Palace of St. Mark, which, amongst others, seem very remarkable. The Rebel­lion of Bajamonte, Bajamonte Tiepele, in the Year 1210. the Story of which you know, was the occasion of setting up a little Arsenal in the Palace, to which there is a Passage from the Hall of the Grand Council, by a Gallery of Communication; to the end, that if there should be a Plot of the People against the Nobility, and they should enterprise any thing against them whilst they are sitting, they might readily find Arms to defend themselves. It is also, as I may tell you by the by, to provide for their Security, that they have built the little Judgment-seat called the Loggietta, which is at the foot of the Tower of St. Mark, in sight of the Palace, and of the Chamber of the Grand Council. There are always some of the Procurators of [Page 169] St. Mark there, upon the Watch, whilst the Grand Council is assembled, and at the same time are doing other business. This Arsenal is furnished with a competent number of Fusees and Musquets, which lie always ready charged, and a great many other good Arms. There is a Ma­chine which serves to light five hundred Matches at a time. Besides these, they keep there a quantity of curious ancient Arms, amongst which they preserve with great care, the Sword of the Valiant Scan­derbeg. I observ'd also there the Bust ofStrangled at Padua with his four Chil­dren, by order of the Senate of Venice, in the Year 1405. Francis Carrara, the last Lord of Padua, so famous for his Cruelties. They shew there a little Trunk or Toilette, in which are six little Guns, which were so ordered with Springs adjusted in such a manner, that upon the opening of the Trunk, the Guns fir'd, and kill'd the Lady, to whom Carrara had sent it for a Present. They show also with this, some little Pocket Cross-Bows, and Arrows of Steel, with which he made Sport to kill those he met, without their perceiving the Stroke, or him that gave it. There are also Locks, and sundry kinds of Bolts, with which that beastly Monster lock'd up his Whores. I must not forget the two little Statues of Adam and Eve, which Albert Durer made in Prison, with the point of a Pen-knife only, and for which he obtain'd his Liberty.

The other particulars which I shall yet observe of the Palace of St. Mark, are the Antick Mouths under the inner Portico; and [Page 170] in several places of the Galleries there are several Heads jutting out,The Discove­rers are some­times rewar­ded. They make them­selves known by a bit of Pa­per torn from the Billet and put into the Box. into the Throats of which any Body may cast a Letter or Note, as into a Trunk, to give what Ad­vice he thinks fit to the Inquisitors of the State. They have the Keys of these Boxes, and make use of the Notices they find, ac­cording to their Judgment and Equity. This is what they call the Secret Accusation.

The Library is in the Procuraties over­against the Palace, and on the other side of the Broglio; there are several Greek Manu­scripts in it, which were given by the Car­dinal Bessarion, who you know was a Grecian. I could not learn that there was any thing rare in this Library, only another Manu­script, De consideratione Dei, which they at­tribute to St. Augustin. I cannot tell what reasons induce them to believe it, but it is very certain, that the Title of this Treatise is not in the Index of Possidius. A Friend of mine, who hath travelled into Spain, told me, that there is in the Escurial, a Ma­nuscript-Treatise of Baptism, which also passes for St. Augustine's, and which is dif­ferent from that which we have of this an­cient: Doctor against the Donatists. They say in that Country, that Charles the Fifth refused fifty thousand Pistols for it. I be­lieve that poor Prince would have gladly taken them, when at his latter End he was forced to sell his Jewels. But to return to the Library; tho' it be none of the most numerous, rarest, and best condition'd Li­braries in the World; yet, to make amends, [Page 171] it is adorn'd with Pictures, by Titian, and some other famous Masters, which are in­finitely esteemed. There are also many Greek Statues of admirable Beauty, particu­larly the above-mention'd Ganymede, carried away by Jupiter, transformed into an Eagle; a Venus; an Apollo; and two Gladiators. They give out, that there are as many fine Pictures at Venice, as at Rome, and we have already seen good store of them: But this is a subject I pretend not to enter upon: I will only tell you, that the three most celebrated Pieces that are to be seen in the Churches, or in publick Places, are the Wedding of Cana, by Paul Veronese, in the Refectory of St. George Major. The Pre­sentation of the Virgin by Titian, in the School of Charity. And theThis St. Peter was a Domi­nican, and In­quisitor-general in Lombardy. He was knock'd on the Head with his Com­panions by some Sectaries whom he Per­secuted. This hapned near to Balassina, in the way from Como to Milan. St. Peter Martyr in St. John and St. Paul's, by the same Titian. Venice is perhaps the only City of Europe, where young Painters may best Study Nature it self. There are two Aca­demies, where there are always naked Per­sons of both Sexes to be viewed, and which are often on the Stage together, in what posture they please to put them. Every body may come in there, and you cannot believe with what boldness these little Crea­tures will endure to be gazed on by all the World.

I shall answer in a few words your Que­stion concerning the Flux and Reflux, by confirming, without doubt, what you have learned elsewhere. The Sea flows six hours, and ebbs as much: It is later [Page 172] every day by three quarters of an hour, or thereabouts, as upon the Coasts of the Sea you are acquainted with; and the Tide rises ordinarily at Venice four foot, or four foot and an half. But it is sometimes more, and sometimes less, as in all other places; and it agrees with the Moon, after the u­sual manner: I shall take care to impart to you the Observations I made all along the Gulf from Ravenna to Loretto.

The Shore is extreamly pleasant beyond those long and narrow Isles, which make as it were Banks on the East side, and which form a kind of Semicircle from North to South, round about Venice. This is properly called the main Sea: There you find Shell-fish, and the Walk is very diver­tising when the Weather is Calm. They get store of Oysters there, but they want the excellent savour of ours. They are looked upon as hurtful, and Strangers ab­stain from eating so many as in other places.

You have reason to say, that Policy and Liberty are two Words, which are in high esteem at Venice. But it must be allowed, that it is not the Venetians only who mag­nifie their own Policy. All the World, in my Opinion, doth acknowledge, that they endeavour'd to refine this Study, and have gained the point. This is an Opinion which I neither can nor will contest; I shall only offer two Observations touch­ing this Subject: The first is, that when we speak generally of the Policy of Venice, [Page 173] we run immediately to a consideration which fills our Minds with Prejudices. Be­fore we proceed to take a nearer and more exact view of this boasted Policy, we judge of it by a deceitful appearance of a false and ill-grounded Experience. The Re­publick of Venice, say they, hath main­tained it self for these twelve or thirteen hundred Years. What a wonderful thing is this, add they, and what greater proof can be desired of the Excellency of its Go­vernment? I say, that by resting here, without further scrutiny, they draw a false Consequence from an ill-grounded Princi­ple. To reason justly, after this manner of speaking, the Republick of Venice must really have always maintain'd it self under one and the same Government: One might then admire the wise and happy Conduct of its Counsels, which, by the various re­sults of their Prudence, had preserved their State for so long a succession of Ages. But the business will not go that way. To what purpose is it to dissemble, what is obvious to the sight and knowledge of all the World? The truth is, that the Govern­ment of Venice hath often changed its Con­stitution, without affirming what some maintain, that this Republick hath rendred Homage to the Kings of Italy. It is in vain to deny, that the Dukes were for a long time absolute Sovereigns; whether by Right or Usurpation, it matters not. The Republick of Venice was no more a Republick, when their Dukes commanded [Page 174] there with an Arbitrary Power, than the Commonwealth of Rome was a Common­wealth, under the first Caesar's, or during the Triumvirate. And therefore we must carefully observe the differerence between these two Propositions: The Republick of Venice maintained it self for twelve hundred Years; or, Venice was a State, or the Head of a State for twelve hundred Years. The first of these Propositions, in a strict sense, is really false; for the Reasons I alledged. The second is true; but nothing can be concluded from it. One might as well say, that Rome has been the Head of a State, for above two thousand four hundred Years, but could not from thence conclude, that the State of Rome had maintained it self during all that time; for to change its face and constitution, is not to maintain it self.

My second Remark upon this Policy, which makes so much noise, is, that the Signiory of Venice being confin'd within so narrow limits, in comparison of the great States of the World, and all the am­bition of this Republick; I speak princi­pally as it stands at present, being only to live quietly and peaceably with all the World; I see no necessity it hath of such great activity of Spirit, or high efforts of Wit, to maintain it self in quiet. When the Republick of Rome aspired to the Em­pire of the Universe, when it endeavoured to fill the World with its Colonies, and had already made so many Kings its Tri­butaries, [Page 175] and was to find out the Secret, to make it self both feared and loved by the Provinces it had newly subdued; then it was that Policy was necessarily required. But there is no such occasion for it at Venice. If the little Republick of St. Marin should make Rhodomontades of its Policy on the Broglio, do you not think it would justly be laugh'd at? And, without derogating from the Glory and Power that Venice hath several times acquired; it is certainly true, that Venice is no more to be compared to old Rome, than St. Marin can come in competition with Venice.

I might add, for a third Remark, that the wonderful Policy of Venice hath not hindred the many declensions into which that Republick hath fallen.

The Commonwealth's-men talk of no­thing but their Liberty; yet these poor People are Slaves to their Masters, as all other People are, under what Government soever they live: And, in the mean time, they stuff their Heads, with I know not what pretended notions of Liberty, as if every one of them were a little Prince. But it must be confessed, that the Inhabi­tants of Venice, have more reason than any to boast of theirs. I will tell you in two words, what that Liberty is: You must never in the least meddle with the Affairs of State: You must commit no enormous Crimes punishable by Justice, which may render you, by their notoriety subject to be taken notice of; and for the rest, you [Page 176] may do what you please, without troubling your Head with what People talk of you. This is the summ of the Venetian Liberty. I might tell you many things on this Sub­ject, very particular and scarcely to be be­lieved: But these reflections having already carried me too far, we will deferr the fur­ther consideration of 'em to another oppor­tunity.

To answer your Questions about the to­leration of Religions, I can tell you, that the Greeks, the Armenians, and the Jews, are allow'd the publick Exercise of their Religions; all other Sects are suffer'd or conniv'd at, but they order their Meetings after so secret and prudent a manner, that the Senate hath no reason to complain of the Abuses or Indiscretion of any Person.

Moreover, though the Worshipping of Images and Reliques, and many other Su­perstitions reign at Venice, it is only amongst the common People, to whom they are willing to grant these amusements. The eminent Wits care neither for this, nor any thing else. Formerly the Venetians were as simple as the rest of the Popish World. The Excommunications of the Pope scared them, and sometimes did them a great deal of Mischief. That of Clement V. for example, made a terrible pother among 'em, and spoiled all their Trade: But now they trouble not themselves about 'em, and the Liberties of the Venetian Church are at present as great as those of the Gallican. They take notice of the Pope as a Prince, but do [Page 177] not much regard him as Pope. When the Jesuites, who are the most potent support of that which they call the Holy See, would have submitted themselves to the order of Suspension, which all the Clergy of Venice had from Pope Paul the Fifth, they were drawn out as Enemies and Disturbers of the State. And tho' for some Reasons at the instant sollicitations of the Court of Rome, they were afterwards recalled; it was on condition that they should not raise Sedi­tions as they formerly had done. And even tho' they continu'd still to entertain such designs, the Republick knows how to order them: but considering the Precautions that are used, the toleration of the Jesuites at Venice can produce no ill Consequences: For, as I am told, they suffer none there but such as are born subjects to the State; and they assure me, that the Superiour must be a Native of the City. In a word, it is cer­tain that Messieurs of Venice suffer them­selves to be Governed neither by the Priests nor the Monks. Those Fathers are per­mitted to wear Masks during the Carnival, to treat their Concubines, sing on the Stages, and do what they please, but they dare not thrust their Noses into the Affairs of State. The Senate is wise enough to be sensible of the disorders which happen when they are permitted to meddle with the Government: Nor do they consult them when any thing comes under deliberation.

I have taken particular care to examine the Creed of the Greeks which are here, [Page 178] touching the Articles of which you write. But to speak freely, though I find them professed Enemies of the Roman Religion, and that they declaim furiously against the Usurpations of the Bishop of Rome, when they speak with freedom: I perceive by their Discourse, that whether by Contagi­on, or by some other reason they differ very much in many points from the other Greek Churches, which are at present under the Dominion of the Turk; at least if we may believe the relations of those Countries. So that the Opinions of these ought not to make us conclude any thing concerning the belief of the Greeks in general. To deal plainly with you, they declare that they believe Transubstantiation, which is not enough to determine the Question, which has made so much noise, and at the bottom makes nothing against those who will not admit that Doctrine. They make use of common Bread, they mingle Water with the Wine, and communicate under both kinds. There are two Altars in their Church, one which they call the Altar of Preparation, and the other of Consecration. On the first they cut the Bread with a Knife, like the Steel head of a Spear. There also they mingle the Water with the Wine, and the Priest takes it with a Sponge out of the Vessel in which it was first mixed, and afterwards squeezes it out into the Chalice. They embrace one another before they receive the Sacrament: And the Commu­nicants receive the Bread steeped in the [Page 179] Wine, the Priest putting it with a Spoon into their Mouths: All this we saw. The Arch-Bishop who officiated, had a Mitre fashioned like an Imperial Crown, and all his other Ornaments were magnificent; and they were changed from time to time, ac­cording to the several parts of the Service.

There are amongst them an infinite num­ber of Ceremonies and Mysteries. When the Bishop blesses the People, he holdeth in his Right-hand a Candlestick of three branches, with the Tapers lighted, which is as an Emblem of the Persons of the Trinity. The Candlestick which he holds in his Left­hand, hath two Branches, to denote the two Natures of Jesus Christ. I will not en­gage further into the confused number of these mysterious Representations. Their Churches are divided into four Parts; the Altars are in the place which they call Holy, at one end of the Church. There are none but he who officiates, and those who serve him who commonly enter there. The se­cond place is appointed for the other parts of the Service: The Men are in the third place, which is separated only from the se­cond by little Balisters, and the Women are behind a Lettice, at the other end of the Church, or in the Galleries. All the Ser­vice is perform'd in vulgar Greek, which is their natural Language, and understood by the People. They highly condemn the use of unknown Languages in the Church: They worship standing, bowing the Head, and putting their Hands on their Breast. [Page 180] Those who are married, may come to Ec­clesiastial Preferments without quitting their Wives: But those that are received before Marriage, are not afterwards suf­fered to marry. They say decency permits not a Person to marry above thrice; so that they forbid fourth Marriages. They deny Purgatory, and you know by what Principles: They pray for the Dead. There are very few here who believe a Temporary Hell from which the Elect are delivered; but they pray for the Souls which they say are in a separate State, expecting the last Judgment. The use of Confession is much practised amongst them, but not after the Roman manner. The Article of the pro­ceeding of the Holy Ghost, they put in the rank of those which are more curious than edifying; insomuch that it is now passed over with as much silence as former­ly it made noise. They keep certain Re­licks as precious and sacred Memorials, but render no Worship to them. I remember I have read in Thevet, That the Greeks of Athens solemnly excommunicate the Pope on Good-Friday. And the Monk Surras re­ports, That at Jerusalem they pray to God every day in a certain part of the Publick Service, that he would keep them still un­der the Dominion of the Turk, rather than suffer them to fall under that of Rome.

I have used all my endeavours to obtain some particular Information, concerning the Creed and Worship of the Armenians, that I might know it from the first hand; [Page 181] but I have not hitherto had an opportunity to get acquaintance with any of them, nor have I yet been present at their Publick Wor­ship, because they are at present at Work in the repair of their Church, and so cannot yet assemble there. One of my Friends, among other things, assur'd me of these four or five Articles. That they Communicate under both kinds: That they give the Sa­crament to little Children: That they be­lieve the sequestration of Souls as the Greeks do: That they give a Bill of Divorce: That they believe there will be no difference of Sexes after the Resurrection. And after all, there are so many particular Opinions a­mong all these People, that it is not easie to tell positively what they believe.

There are yet many particulars in my Journal, with which I might entertain you at present; but I had rather joyn them to those other Observations which I shall make hereafter, that I may have occasion to add also such new Instructions as I hope to receive.

I was just now with the Abbot Lith, whom I mention'd before; and it comes into my Mind to inform you, before I fi­nish my Letter, of a thing which he assured me of, and I should have been sorry to have forgotten, though it hath no relation to Venice. We were discoursing of the few numerous Families which are taken notice of here, in comparison to other places; and he told me, on this occasion, that one of his Kindred had twenty four Sons by one Wife, who were all marri'd; and that all [Page 182] the twenty four with their several Wives, had been seen in a Company together: Though there is nothing in this but what is very possible, yet is it a thing extreamly rare.

I hope I shall quickly receive one of your Letters: As for me, I will not fail to write to you before I depart from hence.

LETTER XVII.

THere are some Observations which I cannot forbear adding to what I have already sent you, concerning the City of Venice: For Example, the Bridge of the Ri­alto is a Piece so famous, that I must not forget to say something of it. Venice is divided by a great Canal, which is dispo­sed in form of an S, and about the middle of this great Canal, is the Bridge I am now to speak of. When they praise here the Structure of this Work, they breathe forth nothing but Admirations, and can find out no Terms but what are too weak for expressing their Thoughts; but all this is purely the effect of Prejudice. This [Page] [Page]

[Page] [Page 183] Bridge hath but one Arch, and all the Miracle consists in the Greatness of this Arch. I took care to measure it, that I might give you a certain Account of it. The Compass of the Arch makes exactly the third part of a Circle, and there are Ninety Foot from one End, or one Ex­tremity of the Arch to the other, on the level of the Canal: from which we may gather, that the Arch is near Twenty four Foot high. No Person will deny, as I conceive, that a great Building of any kind soever, deserves more considerati­on than an indifferent one; but in my Opinion, it must also be confess'd, that when they are both of the same nature, and there is not a very remarkable diffe­rence in their Greatness, there is nothing more incomprehensible in the one, than in the other. This here ought not to stand in Comparison with thoseThe Bridge of Civenchu in Japan is Three hundred and sixty Fa­thom long, and Six and a half broad. It is all built of a black Stone, which is hard, and polishes like Marble; it is supported by Three hundred Piles. Every Stone of the Arches is Eighteen Foot in length, and Four in breadth; and there is a Range of Lions of extraordi­ [...]ary bigness, on each side. The Bridge of Tinsem is not so long, but is more curious, as consisting but of one only Stone. Dutch Embassy to the Emp. of Japan. Part I. great Works, of which the bare undertaking, is, in some measure surprizing: It is an Arch of a Bridge, which is somewhat bigger than those that are usually made; and this is all the Miracle. I might also put you in mind of a Fault in the Structure of this Bridge, according to that Maxim in Ar­chitecture, That to give the greater strength to an Arch, it is necessary that its Com­pass make an entire Semi-Circle, whereas [Page 184] this makes but a Third part of a Circle, as I have already told you. But to speak freely, I cannot find any solidity in the Reasoning of those who establish'd this Principle. And I conceive clearly, that when an Arch makes any part of a Cir­cle, let the Portion be never so little, if the Semi-Circle do not wholly appear, yet it must be supposed, and really is, in the Piles or other Foundations which re­sist the Weight or Bearing of the Arch; and so comes to the same thing. To be fully convinc'd of what I say, one need but consider, that if an Arch which would describe an entire Semi-Circle, were wal­led up, and fill'd to such a height, that only the Sixth Part of its Circumference should appear; or if you will, a Sixth part of a Circle, this top of the Arch would loose nothing of the force it had before. The Bridge of the Rialto is very solidly built, with great pieces of a kind of white Marble; there are two Ranges of Shops which divide it into Three Streets, the great one in the midst, and the little ones between the Rails and the back-sides of the Shops. Generally the other Bridges have no Buttresses; they are single Arches. You go up to them by Steps, which are almost all of a certain white Stone, hard and slippery; which partly gave occasion for the Proverb that advises to beware of the Four P's of Venice, Pietra Bianca, Putana, Prete, Pantalone; the white Stones, Whores, Priests, and Pantaloons.

[Page 185]The best Houses of Venice are upon the great Canal; and there are some which appear veryAbove all the Palaces of Pisani, Moro­sini, Loroda­no, Rosini, Vandramino, Grimani. magnificent: These are great Bulks, which would have no Beauty, were it not for the Mask which I told you of in my Letter from Vicenza; I mean that Frontispiece which commonly consists of Two or Three Orders of Architecture, and which covers the Building on that side which is most in view; and the rest is ill order'd, and no way pleasing to the Eye, I mean the rest of their out-sides.

The Lagunes may cause you to judge, that the Air of Venice is unwholsome; but they assure us of the contrary. However they cannot say the same of the Water, which is almost all very bad. Of more than One hundred and fifty Wells which are here, there are but Two or Three good for any thing; and the best Water is the Rain-Water which some private Persons reserve in Cisterns. The common Wines are also very unpleasant; that which they call (dolce) sweet, is of a pall'd, disgustful taste; and the (Garbo) or sowre, on the contrary is extreamly sharp. After they have drawn off the pure Liquor, they mix Water with the Husks, that they may squeeze some sharpness from the Grapes, which give it some piquant briskness, but makes it very harsh; otherwise this mix­ture palls the Wine very much, and weak­ens it, which never had much Strength in it self. They have also a very ill way of making their Bread; Let it be as fresh as [Page 186] you will, the Paste is so hard, that you must break it as they do Bisket, with a Hammer. In other things you are well enough treated.

Strangers have so little Commerce with the Natives of this Country, that it is dif­ficult to learn their Customs, and Manners of House-keeping: Wherefore I can say very little concerning these things. I read the other day in a Preface of Henry Ste­phens, that in his time, they had an ill O­pinion in France, of a Woman who went Bare-Neck'd; whereas in Italy, and particu­larly at Venice, every old Hag expos'd her wither'd and swagging Breasts to view. But things are muchThere are none but pro­fessed Whores who shew their Necks bare. chang'd since his time. At present the Women of Quali­ty are shut up so close, that you can scarcely see their Face; not even in the Churches, which are the only places where they appear in Publick. When they go abroad, they are shut up in their Gondo­la's, and accompanied with Two or Three old Women, who never leave them. The ordinary Women cover themselves with a great Scarf, which opens only a little before their Eyes; and they go abroad but rarely, because the Men make Pro­vision, and take care of all Business with­out Doors.

They send the Girls to the Convent in their tenderest Infancy; and when grown up, they conclude their Marriages without their Knowledge; nay often with­out letting them see their future Husbands. [Page 187] That you may not be surprized at this, you are to know that they make not Marriages here on the same Accounts they do in other places. They never trou­ble themselves with Love, Affection, or Esteem. If any of those things happen, it is good luck; but they mind nothing but Kindred and Riches, not regarding the Person. The use of Concubines is so generally receiv'd, that the greatest part of the Wives live in good Correspon­dence with their Rivals; and that way the Men remedy the personal Faults of the Women which they marry. There is also another sort of keeping Concubines, very much used by those of tender Con­sciences; a thing in truth very rare at Ve­nice. It is a kind of clandestine Marriage, the Ceremony whereof is not perform'd a long time after the Consummation; and commonly some Days, or some Hours perhaps, only before the death of one of the Parties. The Men find this Method convenient, because it keeps the Women in perpetual awe, and constant complai­sance, being in daily fear of being turn'd off. I know a rich Merchant who hath lived thus for above Twenty Years with his Female Companion; when he is in a good Humour, he will promise to marry her before he dies, and make their Chil­dren his Heirs. But the most usual pra­ctice is, to live on the Common, at so long kept, so much paid, until the first desire of change, without fixing on any [Page 188] certain Person either for Wife or Concu­bine. Those who have not the Means singly to keep a Whore, join with Two or Three Friends; and this Plurality, which would in other places be insup­portable, does here make the Knot of Friendship firmer between Companions of equal Fortunes. Libertinism, in respect of Women, is turn'd to so common and gene­ral a Custom, that, to speak truly, it takes away all sence and remembrance of the Sin. As one of their finest Stroaks of Po­licy here, is to bring up all Persons in Ef­feminacy, and especially the young Nobi­lity: The Mothers are the first who find out Courtesans for their Sons, that they may be sure to hinder them from falling into Contagious Pits; and when they have agreed with the Father and Mother for some young poor Maiden; all her Kindred come, and in cold Blood, wish her Joy, as if it were for a Marriage lawfully con­tracted. You would be surprized to see a Mother deliver up her Daughter, for a cer­tain Summ of Money, Monthly or Year­ly paid; and swear solemly by God, and her own Soul, that she cannot afford it for less. We must not say that all Mothers will do the same, but certainly it is a thing commonly practised. I was infor­med by a good Catholick, that the Con­fessors will not trouble themselves with lit­tle Stories of this Work, they will not hear such Trifles, but ask presently, quatite altra cosa, something else. Besides, there are [Page 189] none but some Fools of Foreign Courtesans, who by a kind of nice Scruple which they bring from their own Country, have ac­custom'd themselves from time to time to hear a Mass. It is true, this costs them but little, because those they employ have re­ciprocally need of their Assistance; they are not unkind to each other; and it is not difficult so to order Affairs, that they may have no occasion to be out of Poc­ket. There are whole Streets of Ladies of Pleasure, who entertain all Comers; and whereas the Habits of other Persons are black and melancholy, these are cloathed in red and yellow, like Tulips; with their Breasts open, their Faces painted foot deep, and always a Nosegay above their Ears: you may see them by Dozens at the Gates or Windows; and the Passers by seldom 'scape them without a torn Sleeves.

The Carnival always begins the second Holiday in Christmas; that is to say, from thence they are permitted to wear Masks, and to open the Play-Houses and Gaming-Houses: Then they are not satisfied with the ordinary Libertinism, they improve all their Pleasures, and plunge into them up to the Neck. All the City is disguis'd; Vice and Vertue were never so well coun­terfeited, and absolutely change both Names and Customs. The place of St. Mark is fill'd with a Thousand sorts of Jack-Pud­dings. Strangers and Courtesans come in Shoals from all parts of Europe: There is every where a general Motion and Confu­sion. [Page 190] You would swear, that all the World were turn'd Fools in an Instant. It is true, that the fury of these Baccha­nals comes not presently to the height; there is some moderation in the beginning. But when they begin to be sensible of the dreaded Approach of the fatal Wednesday, which imposes an universal Silence, then it is that they celebrate their great Feasts, and all without revel on Shrove-Tuesday Mas­querade. Since it is true, that every thing must be attributed to the Policy of Venice, you must suppose there are particulr Rea­sons for the permitting this Licentiousness of the Carnival; and perhaps we need not search for any great Mystery. I shall in­timate Two things which come into my Head on this Occasion: The common Peo­ple always love Sports and other Divertise­ments. As abominable as that Monster Nero was, he was lamented by the Mobb, because of his Shows. I imagine then, that the Nobility, who otherwise are not well beloved, are very glad to find some cunning ways to please and amuse the People. There is yet another thing which seems to me of some moment. I am credibly inform'd, that at the last Car­nival, there was an account of Seven So­vereign Princes, and Thirty thousand other Foreigners. Consider how much Money all this Multitude must have brought to Venice.

I must, according to your desire, give you my Sentiment of the Opera's and Co­medies [Page 191] acted here; tho' in the mean time, I must confess my averseness to meddle with this particular; because I fear I shall in your Opinion be esteem'd too singular in mine. You seem to me to be possessed with great Prejudices in favour of these fa­mous Shows; and I fansie you expect something which may exceed the Idea you have already seen of them. I entreat you then, to set aside all your Prejudices, and to believe I will do as much; that I may be able to give you an impartial Ac­count of things as I found them. I will do it in few Words, without criticising on Opera's in general, in which I have al­ways been offended at some Passages which seem contrary both to Probability and Reason. But since you will have it so, we will suppose that all the Represen­tation of an Opera, is the best contrived thing in the World; and I will keep my self within the Bounds you have prescri­bed me, which is to speak to you with relation to Opera's which you have seen at Paris: It is undeniable matter of Fact, that the Ornaments of those here fall ex­treamly short of these; the Habits are poor, no Dances, and commonly no Ma­chines, nor any Illuminations, only some Candles here and there, which deserve not to be mentioned. 'Tis dangerous not to magnifie the Italian Musick, or to say, at least, any thing against it. Neither will I insist on this Subject, but confess, in the general, that they have most excellent [Page 192] Ayres, and that there are some good Voi­ces amongst them. Thus, for Example, the Vicentin Songster of the Hospitalettes is a little charming Creature. But I cannot forbear telling you, that I find I know not what Confusion and Unpleasantness in several Parts of the Songs in their Ope­ra's: They dwell many times longer on one Quavering, than in singing Four whole Lines; and often they run so fast, that it is hard to tell whether they Sing or Speak, or whether they do either or both to­gether. Every one has his Humour for me; I confess, amongst other things, the over-strain'd Shrill agrees not with me, tho' there be much trouble to reach it, and it be wonderfully grateful to the Ears of those People. The Concert is much less than at Paris, but perhaps it is never the worse for that. There is also one thing which charms them, which I be­lieve would not please you; I mean those unhappy Men who basely suffer themselves to be maimed, that they may have the finer Voices. The silly Figure, which in my Opinion, such a mutilated Fellow makes, who one time acts the Bully, and sometimes the Passionate Lo­ver, with his Effeminate Voice, and wrinkled Face, is not to be endured. It is impossible that Fellows of this Make can have Spirits necessary for the Beauty of Action; and indeed there is nothing more cold and feeble than the manner after which they act their Parts.

[Page 193]There are at present Seven several O­pera's at Venice; and one cannot choose but be there every Evening, if it were only but to find Company: But since you would have me speak ingenuously, I I must tell you, that we impatiently ex­pect the end of the Piece, before we have heard a quarter of it. You must know there is a Buffoon in every Opera: You may imagine what a Figure this Actor makes with his Fooleries in the most Serious, and even sometimes most Tragi­cal part of the Play. I will say little of their Comedies; all the World knows they are but ridiculous Fustain, and wretched Buffooneries, scurvily performed. Nevertheless, let them be never so silly, there is always some Grimace, with some Posture or Trick of Harlequin, that makes the Spectators laugh; the most luscious Bawdy is pronounced in the most ex­pressive terms, and the little Damsels of those Societies never mince the matter. When they are just ready to begin, they commonly open the Doors for the Mes­sieurs, the Watermen, who make a conside­rable Body at Venice, and are vrey necessary Persons. Their Office on this Occasion is to clap their Hands, and bawl out like Mad­men, to give from time to time Applause to the Actors. I cannot either express, or make you conceive what Terms they use when they congratulate the Women; who re­ceive also other Applauses, by Sonnets made for them, and printed, which you [Page 194] shall see fly from all sides of the Thea­tre. Before I finish this Article, I must tell you, that these Theatres belong to some Noble-men, who get considerably by them, tho' they continue no longer than the Carnival lasts.

The places which they call Ridetti, are properly the Academies of Basset: They are open'd at the same time with the Theaters; there are none but Noble-men who cut. They dismiss the Gamesters when they please; and they have so much good Fortune joyn'd to their Privileges, and good Play, that the Bank is almost always Fortunate. There are Ten or Twelve Chambers on a Floor, with Ga­ming-Tables in all of them. You can scarcely turn your self in them; but tho' the Throng is so great, yet is there a profound Silence. To come into these places you must necessarily be mask'd. The Courtesans come thither in Shoals; and the other Ladies also, who under their Masks may enjoy all the publick Pleasures of the Carnival; but they still are follow'd by Spies, or by their Hus­bands. Besides the Chambers of Play, there are some for Conversation, where they also sell Liquors, Sweet-meats, and such like things. They put not off their Masks; and by the Privilege of this Dis­guise, provided they be in good Cloaths, they may speak to the Ladies, even to those whom they may suppose of the high­est Quality: But you must injure no Bo­dy. [Page 195] Beside that the Mask is Sacred, one will seem to take no notice, who hears all that is said to his Wife, and who hath a great many Bravo's at his Heels, for by that name they call the Hectors and profess'd Murderers. Not that it is impossible to act a piece of GallantryIn the busi­ness of the La­dies, it suffices at Venice to have good Breeding, and Money, and sometimes to give a noble Treat. Anc. Des. of Venice. with the best guarded of them, when they are not over severe. As the Difficulty augments the Desire, so this Desire invents the Means; and those who understand the Practise of this Country, will do more with the Wink of an Eye, than in other Countries we can perform by the longest Assiduities: But all these things are out of my Sphere, therefore I must beg your leave to go on.

The greatest Masquerading is in the place of St. Mark; where the Crowd is sometimes so great, that one cannot turn himself: You may put your self in what Equipage you please, but to do it well, you must be able to maintain the Personage you represent. Thus, for example, when the Harlequins meet, they jeer one another, and act a thousand Fooleries. The Doctors dispute. The Bullies vapour and swagger; and so of the rest. Those who are not willing to be Actors on this great Theatre, take the Habit of Noblemen. Some Polonian Dress, or the like, which obliges them to nothing. Maskers are not permitted to wear Swords. The Women are Habited as they please, and are to be seen there in most magnificent Dresses. In the mean time the place is [Page 196] filled with Puppet-Plays, Rope-Dancers, and all sorts of such People as you see at Bartholomew-Fair. But those which in my Opinion are the pleasantest of all, are a kind of Almanack-makers and Fortune-tellers, who have their little Stages environ'd with Spheres, Globes, Astronomical Figures, Cha­racters, and Conjuring-Books of all sorts: these Pronouncers of Oracles have a long Pipe of Tin, with which they speak in the Ear of the Curious, who stand below the Scaffold. They speak more or less accor­ding to the Persons, and observe, without any notice taken, the Countenance of the Consulter: when they perceive he Smiles, and by some other gesture denotes his Ap­probation, they give over speaking a little, and ring a little Bell with wondrous Gra­vity, to make known, that by virtue of their Art, they have dived into a very secret Af­fair, or else that they have hit extraordina­rily right. When they swear only By God, it signifies nothing; that is only a common Road of speaking, which no body regards. But when they would be believed, they call to witness the Saint of Padua, or the most blessed Lady of Loretto, and then all the standers by look seriously and devoutly, and pull off their Hats, as when a Psalm is sung at the Gallows. It is pleasant to see the Priests and the Monks of all Orders, who take up the Tubes three quarters of the time.

[Page 197]I will say nothing of the Bull-baitings,Consult the Book of the S. Didiers. Goose-catching, Combats at Fifty-Cuffs, Balls, Races of the Gondola's, or of their Feasting on Shrove-Tuesday, on which day they cut off a Bull's-Head, before all the Senate, in memory of a Victory in Friuli. These Stories are too long to be related; nei­ther am I particularly acquainted with them.

Moreover, you must know, that the Car­nival is not the only time in which they wear Masks at Venice. They use 'em in all Feasts of Pleasure; with the Mask they run to the Audiences of Ambassadors: And on Ascension-day all are masked from the No­blemen in the Bucentaur, to the Mobb in the City. All these are admirable Times for the Gondoliers; not only because of the profit it brings them by their Gondola's, but because it is a time of Intrigues; and a Gondolier will undertake any thing. They know all the turns and by-ways; they pre­tend to know the critical Minutes, and the private Stairs, and to hold correspondence with the Waiting-Women: they furnish Ladders of Cords on occasion; they pro­mise in your Ear, to bring you to places esteemed otherwise inaccessible; they are for all uses, and would perform the Trade of Bravo's, if necessity required. Their great business is Pimping: They offer, with­out asking, to deposite a Summ of Money, and lose it, if their Wares prove unsound.

You may have Gondola's, either for so much to such a place, or at so much an hour, as you hire Coaches at London or [Page 198] Paris. But it is more convenient to keep one for your own use, and this costs but little: You may have one of the best for the value of five or six Shillings a day.They are from 30 to 32 feet long, and broad from 4 to 5. The Gondola's of Venice are very pretty things, they are light, and of a pleasant Make; you are very conveniently seated in them, under cover, as in a Coach, with Glasses on every side. The Left is the place of Honour; and the reason which they give, is, because he who sits on the Right-hand, cannot see the Gondolier before, and consequently cannot so easily com­mand him. These People are excellent Masters of their Trade; they turn, stop, and avoid, with surprizing readiness and facility: They stand up and manage the Oar in such a manner, that they have their Faces towards the Place they go to; where­as the Wherry-men on the Thames, and al­most every where else, sit down and ad­vance, by going backwards. All the Gon­dola's are black, by an Act of the State; and the little Chamber is also covered with black Cloath or Searge. But Strangers may have others, if they will be at the Charge, which seldom happens; few staying at Venice longer than the time of the Carnival. Lent is no sooner come, but all that mul­titude begins to dislodge: Travellers, Pup­pet-Players, Bears, Monsters, and Courtesans; I mean by the Courtesans, those whom Devotion brings from the Neighbouring Kingdoms; for they take care that none of their own Country prove Deserters. Be­fore [Page] [Page]

[Page] [Page 199] I leave the Gondola's, I must tell you, that those of the Ambassadors are extream­ly fine; they are greater than ordinary, and their Ornaments are as sumptuous as those of the most magnificent Coaches. These Ministers have commonly four or five; and it is in these Gondola's they make their Publick Entries.

The Arsenal of Venice passes for one of the fairest and greatest of Europe; and all the World agree, that it is a most important Piece. But it is to be considered, that it is the only one which the Venetians have in Italy; and all the Ammunition they have is stored up here: And besides, half the Stories that are told of it are not true.They show a Piece of Can­non which was made whilst a Duke was at Dinner, it is in the 22 d. Lodge. Henry the Third was Treated in the 23 d. and du­ring the time of the Colla­tion, they built one whole Gal­ley, and cast six Cannon. Payen. Those who show it would have you believe, that there are two thousand five hundred Pieces of Cannon, good Arms for one hundred thou­sand and Foot, compleat Equipages for twen­ty five thousand Horse: These are words soon spoke, but not so easily made good. You must further observe, that the inclosure of this Arsenal comprehends also the Maga­zines for the Vessels, Casting-Houses, Rope-Yards, Forges, Lodges for the Galleasses, Gallies, and the Bucentaure, besides the Havens and Docks for building and refitting of Vessels. This is what makes the extra­ordinary greatness of the Arsenal, they have some Ships of War, of which the greatest, which is called the Redeemer, hath, as they say, fourscoure Pieces of Cannon mounted, and fourteen Pateraro's; it is at present at Sea. The Galleasses have three [Page 200] Batteries in the Prow, and two in the Poop; the Crew ought to be one hundred ninety two Galley-Slaves, at six on a Bench. The Bucentaure is a kind of very great Gal­leasse, very much adorn'd with Sculptures and Gilding. The Duke, accompanied with the Senate, and a great number of the Nobility, every Year, on Ascension-day, goes on Board this Vessel with great PompAs if they became the Husbands of Thetis, or the Wives of Neptune, they marry the Sea every Year. Lewis Helian. Henry III. went from Ve­nice to Mura­no, in the Bu­centaure. Mezeray. to marry the Sea. That which they made use of when Alexander III. instituted this Ceremony, in confirmation to the Venetians of that Empire, which they said they al­ready had over the Gulf, was call'd the Bucentaure; and since that they have kept this name, and consecrated it to all the Vessels destined to that Ceremony. The Captain of the Bucentaure makes Oath the day when he is received, and engages his Life that he will bring her back safe and sound, in spite of all Winds and Tempests whatsoever.

It was burned before in 1507.The Arsenal was in great part burnt, in the Year, 1565. and they say, that the cracks of the burning were heard at forty Miles distance. There are three Noblemen who govern it; and the Galleasses are also commanded by Noblemen: All conside­rable Employments passing through their hands.

I acknowledge it is not an easie matter to return particular Answers to the several Questions you propose, concerning their Dignity, and the great Figure they made in the World. You know that at Venice, [Page] [Page]

[Page] [Page 201] as well as elsewhere, that which they call Nobility, according to the common Ex­pression, consists but in Fancy and Opini­on, as all other things in the World do. It is true, that the Noble Venetians are born with some Character of Sovereignty; be­cause they compose the Grand Council, which forms and animates all the other Councils; and on this score they deserve some consideration. But after all, this reason is not satisfactory; for the Nobles of Genoua may boast of the same Priviledge; Things become of Worth, by the value which is put upon them: And the Noble Venetians are distinguished, because they knew how to distinguish themselves. They have found it worth their wile, to push on the value and honour of their Nobility, be­yond all estimation. They have sometimes compar'd it with that of Princes of Royal Blood. They pretend that it swallows up all the Titles that are assum'd by others:Henry III. of France recei­ved the Qua­lity of a Noble Venetian. Alexander likewise ac­cepted the Title of Burgess of Corinth. And even some Crowned Heads have en­nobled it, by not disdaining to receive it. See by what methods they arrived to this degree of Honour. Moreover, though there are not two sorts of Noblemen at Venice, yet they bear not all equally the Grande supércilium, which Juvenal speaks of; the Commands, the Offices, great Wealth, and ancient Extraction, make new di­stinctions among them. And though, as I told you, they value their Nobility at an infinite rate, yet nevertheless you must not from hence conclude, that this Title may [Page 202] not be communicated for a certain Summ, when the great necessities of the Republick require it.

The Nobles never appear publickly at Venice, but in their Robes of black Cloth; these they wear at all times, and they ought to be lined with greyish Cloth in the Win­ter, and Ermins in the Summer. The Stole is of the same Cloath. The Girdle is black also, four Fingers broad, and gar­nished with Plates and Buckles of Silver; and their Bonnet is only a kind of Cap of black Worsted, with a little Fringe of the same: But they wear great Perukes, and commonly carry their Cap in their hands. The Procurators of St. Mark, the Savii grandi, and the others, who are possess'd of the highest Offices, have Habits to distin­guish them. Those amongst the Nobles, who have been Ambassadors may wear a Stole of Cloath of Gold, and put Buckles of Gold to their Girdles: But ordinarily they only adorn their black Stoles with a little Gold Galloom. The Physicians, Ad­vocates, Notaries, and all those which are called Cittadini, are habited like the Nobles, without any distinction. It would not al­ways be pleasing to these to be known by their Habits; for such a distinction might expose them to great dangers, should any disorder happen. They cause themselves to be treated with Excellency, and the man­ner to salute them with great submission is to kiss their Sleeve. The Elbow of this Sleeve is like a great Sack, and into that, [Page 203] those who go to Market put their Provision. They are not followed by any Servant, and no Person salutes them, but he who knows them, except those who wear the same Robe. The People fear them and love them but little; but I will not say that this proceeds from any ill Treatment they re­ceive from them. Friendship grows com­monly from Converse; we may then sup­pose it is because the Nobles make them­selves familiar with no body. They dare not make themselves popular, for fear lest they should be accused of Caballing against the State. This same reason hinders them to visit each other; and renders them inac­cessible to Foreigners. You must confess, that this savage and sower Policy is very troublesome. It is hard that a Govern­ment cannot be happy without destroying the bands and communications of Society, which are the chief Pleasures of this Life! I must further tell you, on this Article, that the Nobility is not entail'd to the El­der Sons only, as in England. They are not permitted to Trade, nor to marry with Foreigners.

I am not surpris'd at the trouble those Titles of Marquesses and Counts give you, which you hear spoken of in the Countries depending on Venice. I will explain the matter to you. The Noble Venetians pre­tend to be equal to Princes, but never qua­lifie themselves by any particular Title: And the Marquesses and Counts which you tell me of, are no Noblemen of Venice. [Page 204] These Gentlemen are of three sorts; Some of them really enjoy'd these Dignities, be­fore they became Subjects to this State, but they have lost the Priviledges of their Titles, and keep only the Name. They have al­ways taken care at Venice to humble them, and to take from them all means of think­ing to shake off the Yoke, or return under the Dominion of their ancient Masters; and one of the ways which they have ob­served for this, hath been to create Counts of a new Stamp, who make head against the others, and so take away the distinction by a confusion of Titles, which have the same sound. The other advantages which Venice draws from this Invention, would make here too long a digression; only I have inform'd you what are the Mar­quesses and Counts of the second Order. Those of the third are founded on some Pretensions of their Ancestors. If they were not altogether Counts, in the time of the ancient Government, they had at least a great desire to be so. And when the face of Affairs was chang'd, they made themselves Counts, I know not how, with­out any endeavours used to hinder them, because they got no real advantage by it.

I find that you are misinform'd in some particulars relating to the Duke. You must conceive, that the Duke, consi­dered as Duke, is but a meer Figure of a Prince, an animated Statue, and a Chi­mera of Greatness. It puts me in mind of those Two Persons which at the Co­ronation [Page]

[Page] [Page 205] of your Kings, bear the Name of the Dukes of Aquitain and Normandy. It is so far out of the Duke's Power to Par­don any Criminal, as you have been per­suaded, that you may assure your self his new Quality diminisheth his Credit very much, if it doth not absolutely reduce it to nothing. It is true, that the Duke is encompassed with many Marks of Honour, but none of those properly relate to him: They belong only to his Representative Quality, like the Privilege which Ambas­sadors have to be cover'd when they speak to Kings to whom they are sent. The Duke is the Representative of the Repub­lick, whose pleasure it is to reflect its Glory upon him, as it were to ease it self of the trouble of it; yet appropriating to it self all the Honours he receives. And those Honours which the Quality of Duke brings with it, fall not upon him who is in­vested with it, but to be immediately transfer'd to the State, which seems to have only set him up for this Purpose. This is so true, that to hinder the Duke from abu­sing those Honours which are only to pass from him, as through a Canal, they give him Counsellors, who have a constant Eye over him, and can visit his Closet every Hour. He cannot take a Journey to the Continent, without permission of the State; and when he goes, tho' with leave, all his Honours vanish there, and he hath no more Authority than another Noble-man. From the first Moment of his Election, [Page 206] all his Kindred who were in Offices are immediately turn'd out: And when he dies, the State wears no Mourning. See, Sir, what Idea you ought to have of the Duke of Venice. I will farther add, that if, maugre all the Care they take to curb his Power, he should endeavour to break out beyond his Sphere, such Orders are ta­ken as would presently restrain him. The Duke is as much subject to the Laws, as the meanest Person; and the Inquisition of the State is a Scourge, which seems to threaten him more particularly than o­thers. I suppose you are acquainted with the unlimited Power of this Tribunal, which you must reckon to be as rigorous and severe, as the other Inquisition at Ve­nice is patient, and free from rigour and severity.

To return to the Duke: You must know, that notwithstanding all his Slave­ry, and his little Authority, his Quality of Duke allows him two or Three small Pri­vileges. He hath two Voices in the great Council: He bestows the little Offices of the Palace; and he hath the Nomination of the Primicerio, and Canons of St. Mark. As for his other Honours, they are given to the Republick, in the Person of the Duke. In this sence he is call'd Prince, and treated with Serenity, which is a term of Honour above that of Highness, according to their Interpretation. There are some Marks of Royalty in his Apparel. When he marches in State, they carry a Torch [Page 207] before him,This Chair hath two Arms, and no Back. a Folding Chair, the Cushi­on which belongs to it, and Eight Silver Trumpets, some Hoboys, and Eight Stan­dards, on which are the Arms of Venice: There are Two White, Two Red, Two Violet, and Two Blue, which, 'tis said, signifie Peace, War, Truce, and the League. They made us take notice, that the Two Red ones marched first; be­cause the Republick was at present in War. When it was at Peace, the White ones have the precedency; and so the rest in order. They carry also near the Duke, a kind of Cloth of State, made like an Um­brello. The Duke is ordinarily accompa­nied with the Nuncio, and the other Am­bassadors which are at Venice, except the Ambassador of Spain, who never assists at any publick Ceremony, since this State gave the Precedency to the Ambassador of France. These Ministers have their Hats on their Heads. As for the Duke, he never pulls off his Coronet but on one of these two Oc­casions; either at the moment when the Host is elevated, or when he receives a Visit from a Prince of Royal Blood, or from a Cardinal. I must tell you, that the Cardinal sits in the same great Chair with the Duke; this Chair having a Spring and Machine made on purpose to let it out so as Two may sit together: The Duke gives the Right-hand to the Cardinal. But to return to the Procession: The Principal Senators march after, and the Sword of State is carried before them, to [Page 208] denote that the Authority resides in the Council, not in the Duke. I am not well enough inform'd of the particulars of the rest of this Procession, to give you an exact Description of it; but it is not very material. I must farther acquaint you, that the Money bears the Name of the Duke: That the Letters of the Confede­rate Princes and States are addressed to him: That he gives Audience to Ambas­sadors, and that Declarations are publish'd in his Name. These last Particulars need some Explanation: The Name of the Duke is, in truth, on the Money, but his Arms are not; and his Image is there only Historically. This Money is pro­perly the Coin of Venice. On the Reverse is the Duke on his Knees, at the Foot of the Primicerio, who sits and represents St. Mark. The Duke takes an Oath of Fidelity to him, having one Hand on the Mass-Book, and with the other re­ceiving the Banner of the State. By this you may perceive that this is no Honour to the Duke; and that his Image has no more Marks of Authority than that of the Primicerio. As for the Letters of Princes, the truth is, they are directed and presented to the Duke; but it be­longs not to him to open them, with­out first communicating them to the Coun­cil; that is to say, the Council receives them by his Hands. And it is much the same thing with respect to Ambassadors; For the Affair is consulted before, and the [Page 209] Answer is so well put, Word for Word, into the Mouth of the Duke, that if any of them happen to forget, or perhaps to make a willing Mistake, they are astoni­shed to find themselves corrected on the Spot. As to what concerns Acts of State, he is but tht Herald; the Senate enacts, and the Duke publishes.

It must then be confessed, that if in any case Gold and Purple are but glaring Page­ants; and if the Grandeurs of the World are but Chimera's and stately Yokes; the Duke of Venice is an Eminent Instance of these Truths.

I have, in obedience to your Desire, insisted the longer on this Particular: Do not think that I have reveal'd to you any Mystery, in the things which I have said of the Duke: Though they are not conformable to the Idea's you had conceiv'd, nor, perhaps, to those of the greatest part of the World; they are all generally known here.See what Mr. Amelot hath written of it. I will not med­dle with the Article of Government, that would be too tedious and difficult a Subject for me to undertake; who nei­ther have Time, nor Intelligence suffi­cient to be fully instructed in so many things.

I will briefly answer your Questions concerning the Patriarch. He is elected by the Senate, and confirmed by the Pope; and his Quality gives him, as you may believe, a very eminent Rank; but his Authority is extreamly bounded. The [Page 210] Curates are chosen by the People;The Curates are elected by the People of each Parish. The Day of E­lection, the Competitors present them­selves, exalt­ing their own Merits, and defaming their Antagonists. G. Burnet. If the Election be not made in Three Days, the State no­minates. the Patriarch can nominate only to Two or Three Benefices: And the Clergy in ge­neral, to speak properly, acknowledges no Superiority but that of the State. This Prelate is cloathed in Violet Colour; he is always chosen out of the Nobility: I am assured that he only stiles himself at the beginning of his Orders; N— divina miseratione Venetiarum Patriarcha. N— by the Mercy of God, Patriarch of Venice: And adds not, as others do, & sanctae sedis Apostolicae gratia; And by the Grace of the holy Apostolick See. The Venetians desire nothing more, than wholly to free them­selves from the Authority of that which they call the Holy See. As to the rest, there needs no more Knowledge, nor Per­sonal Merit, to be Patriarch, than to be Pope: these are things not required in this Case; it is Interest and Intrigue by which this Dignity is obtain'd, as it is the Habit which makes the Monk. It is al­so incredible how much Ignorance and Dis­order reigns in this Country, among all those who call themselves Clergy-men. The Cardinal Barberigo, Bishop of Padua, who is a venerable Old Man, and a wise Person, sometimes take the Pains, as they say at Padua, to preach himself against these Abuses. He introduces as much as he can, the Custom to make the Priests understand a little Latin. And his Zeal hath extended so far as to double the Grates of some Nunneries in his Diocess, [Page 211] in hopes they will follow his Example at Venice, where the Parlours, or Speak­ing-places are of too easie Communicati­on: But all this produces but little; they do not willingly give Ear to such Spoilers of good Company.

I must in the mean time tell you, that I remember a very pleasant Secret which was found out here, in behalf of some Priests that are Musicians. You know it is a Law without Exception, that a Priest must be a Compleat Man; nevertheless, it hath been observed, that this Perfection of the Body is sometimes a cause of the Unpleasantness of the Voice; and, on the other side, the Sweetness of the Voice is of great use to insinuate things the better into the Minds of People, both in the Church, and at the Opera: They have found a Mean to accommodate the Affair, and have concluded that a Priest fitted for Musick, may exercise the Priesthood as well as another; provided he hath his Necessities, or, if you will, his Superfluities in his Pocket. I will not be bound to produce the Act for this Regulation, which certainly was only given vivâ voce. But let that be as it will, I can positively assure you from my own certain Know­ledge, that what I have told you is Truth.

Father Mark Aviano, Mr. Scheibler a Lutheran Minister, in the County of Juliers, hath writ a Book con­cerning the Miracles of this Capuchin. And you may see some Stories of him in the Treatise of J. Zwingerus Prof. in Divin. at Basil, de festo Corporis Christi. whom I mentio­ned [Page 212] in my Letter from Ausbourg, is at present here: I went twice or thrice to hear him preach, but could not get ad­mittance. One must go three or four Hours before, if one intends to get a Place. The Devotion of the People is so great for this pretended Miracle-monger, that at first they tore his Cassock, and pull'd off the Hairs of his Beard, and had certainly pull'd him to Pieces, that they might get some Relicks of him, if his Friends had not bethought themselves to make a Hole in the Church-Wall; by which he enters in a Chair thro' a Galery, which leads directly thither from a neighbouring House, and so preserved him from these foolish Devotees.

It is just I should add something of the famous Frier Paolo: All that I could learn concerning him among the Friers Servites, was, that they hold his Memo­ry in great veneration. But to tell the Truth, those who spake of him to me, knew but little of him, as I might judge by their Discourse; they telling me, that they knew not where his Body was, but God would discover it in due time. They have preserv'd the Dagger, which this great Man call'd the Roman Style, on so just and true an Occasion. This Dagger is to be seen at the Feet of the Crucifix which is upon the Altar of St. Magdalen.

I should never make an end, should I undertake to speak of the Churches, the [Page 213] Cabinets of Curiosities,See divers o­ther Remarks upon Venice, at the begin­ning of the Second Tome. Among the Ca­binets, you may particu­larly see those of the Palace of Rosini; of the Procurator Justiniani; of the Family of Capello; of M. G. Barbaro; of Messeur Morosini Grimani, Justinia­ni Garzoni, and Zani; of the Baron de Tassis; of Dr. Bon; and of Francisco Rota. Spon. and an hundred other things; but I shall content my self with what I have said at present. We are resolv'd to lie to morrow Night at Padua, where we have secured a Coach to carry us to Loretto. The Frost, which hath continu'd for two whole Months, hath so dried the Ways, that we hope to jogg on easily. I expect at Rome to hear News from you: Pray let me not be dis­appointed of my Hope; believe that I am sincerely,

LETTER XVIII.

THere is not any thing worth Ob­servation between Padua and Rovi­go, only that the Country is Plain and Fruitful, watered with many Rivers, and well cultivated. It is every where full of Meadows, Groves, Vineyards, and well­till'd Spots of Ground. The Venetians have there some Houses of Pleasure; but the common Habitations, when you draw [Page 214] near to Rovigo, are but Huts made of Reeds, which a Fire would reduce to Ashes in less than an Hour; yet are they as merry there as in a Palace. We saw often come out of these Cabbins, whole Troops of Maskers, dancing Gambols to the Tunes of the Violin and Bagpipe. These Country Crews perhaps are to be preferred before the Rabble of Venice.

ROVIGO. Rovigo is a poor little City, begirt with a Wall just falling to ruine: Yet it is the Residence of the Bishop of Adria. That ancient and famous City, which gave name to the Gulf, being now but a pitiful half­drowned Village.

FERRARA. Ferrara is very great, and pretty hand­some, tho' ill peopled. Some say it was called Ferrara, as if ferè auren, half Golden, because of its rich Trade: But at pre­sent it is so poor and desolate, that it cannot be view'd without Compassion.In the Year 1570, in For­ty Hours time Ferrara suf­fered One hun­dred and sixty [...]olts of an Ea [...]thquake, and was al­most all destroy­ed. Schrad. In a place where Four great Streets meet, we made a short stop, without perceiving any one Person in any of them. It is gene­rally acknowledged, that this City hath more Houses than Inhabitants. In the mean time, the Ferrarese is one of the best Parts of Lombardy; it is a plain and fat Country, which wants nothing but Til­lage. You know this Desolation is an ef­fect of the Severity of the Government.Servierent tibi, Roma, prius Domini Dominorum. Servorum Servi tibi sunt, jam Roma Tyranni. All that falls into the Hands of the Popes, presently becomes Miserable. Commonly [Page 215] these old Princes are constrained to do a great deal of Work in a little time, to en­rich their Families; they care little what becomes of the Estate after their Death. When Ferrara was united to their Demesnes, under the Pontificat of Clement VIII. that Pope built a very strongDu Val writes, that this Cita­del cost Two Millions of Crowns of Gold. Citadel, which is still in good Order. As for the other Fortifications, they are wholly slighted. The ancient University of Ferrara is at pre­sent reduced to a paltry College of the Je­suits.

Near the Cathedral, there are some Sta­tues on Horse-back, of Brass, of which one, they say, represents a Duke of Boz­zolo. Over-against the Palace of the No­bility, you see also the Statue of Duke Her­cules II. on Horse-back; on the Pedestal of which, there is a Decree engraved, which grants a Refuge or Sanctuary to Crimi­nals for Twenty Paces round about.

They carried us to the Ducal Palace, to the Marquis de Villa's House, to the Ca­thedral, and many other Churches and Convents. But tho' all these places have their own Beauties, I believe the Descripti­on of 'em would not be very pleasant to you; yet will I not forget to send you the Epitaph of poor Ariosto: They have lately repaired his Tomb in the Church of the Benedictines.

They carried us also to the Opera, where we saw nothing extraordinary. The prin­cipal Actress was a little pretty Songstress, of Twelve or Thirteen Years old; who that day was to make the first Essay on the Theatre; and according to common Report, was that Evening to enter into the Service of one of the principal Gentle­men of the City. All the chief Boxes were filled with Jesuits, and such like People.

RAVENNA.It is fifty Miles from Ferrara to Raven­na; the Way continues good for the first Day's Journey, but afterwards becomes low, and full of Water, between the se­veral Branches of the Adige and the Po. The Towns and Villages which we saw on the Road, deserve not to be mentio­ned. Ravenna is but half as big as Ferrara, yet it appears at a great distance, being si­tuated in a flat and open Champion Coun­try. You are not ignorant that the anci­ent Geographers represent its Situation like to that of Venice, upon Piles in the midst of Waters. And all the World knows that it was formerlyClassem My­seni alterum Ravennae ad tutelam superi & inferi ma­ris. Suet. in Octav. c. 49. the Principal Haven which the Romans had on the Adriatick Gulf: But this Place hath suffer'd great Alterations since those times; for not only the Lagunes are dried up, but the Sea is also retired [Page 217] Three Miles from it; and these Plains, formerly drown'd and barren, are at pre­sent the most fruitful Fields in Italy. It is not to be doubted but that the present Ravenna is in the place of the ancient Ra­venna; as it appears evidently from several ancient Monuments. There are in the Walls towards the Sea-side, many great Rings of Iron, which formerly ser­ved to fasten the Vessels: And you may yet see the remainders of the Beacon. This City hath been so often ruin'd by the Wars, that there are but few Marks left of its first Antiquity: It is at present poorly built, and very thinly peopled, as well as Ferrara; nevertheless I found it in many things worthy of Observation. Its Situation alone, in respect of the wonder­ful Change which hath happen'd in its Ter­ritory, I think deserves a Man's travelling this way.

Without the Walls, near the ancient Haven, there is a Mausolaeum, which Amu­lasuntha erected for her Father Theodoric, King of the Ostrogoths; who, as you know, made his Residence at Ravenna. They have turned this Building into a little Church, which they call the Rotonda. The most remarkable thing about it is, the hewn Stone with which this Church is cover'd: I measured this Stone, and found it to be thirty eight Foot in Diameter, and fifteen in Thickness. The Tomb of Theo­doric was on the top, in the midst of this little Dome, between the Statues of the [Page 218] Twelve Apostles, which were placed on the sides round about. These Statues were broken during the last Wars of Louis XII. and the Tomb which is of Porphyrie, was also over-thrown: They have since set it in the Wall of an Ancient Palace in the City, where we saw it.

The Cathedral is an old Church, the Body of which is supported by fifty six Pil­lars of Marble, of the Archipelago, which make a double Range on each side. The Choir is vaulted with fine Mosaick; and they keep there in great Veneration, one of the Stones with which St. Stephen was stoned. But the greatest Curiosity in this Church is the great Door: It is made of Planks of Vines, some whereof are twelve Foot high, and fourteen or fifteen Inches broad. The Ground hereabouts is so a­greeable to the Vines, in that very place which the Sea formerly covered, that it makes them grow prodigiously big. I have read, as I remember, in the Voyage of Olearius, that he found near the Caspi­an Sea, the Bodies of Vines of the thick­ness of a Man.

They shew in the Church of the Thea­tines, a little Window over the great Al­tar, in the midst of which is the Figure of a White Pigeon, which is placed there for a Memorial; that after the death of St. Apollinarius, first Bishop of Ravenna, the Priests being assembled to choose his Suc­cessor, the Holy Ghost, as they say, came in at that Window in the Shape of a [Page 219] Dove, and perch'd upon him who was to be Elected: They add, that the same thing happen'd Eleven times after, successively; but since that time, they have done their Business without super-natural assistance. Platina after Eusebius, tells the like Story of the Election of Pope Fabian.

There are very fine Pieces of Marble and Porphyrie in the Churches of St. Vital, St. Apollinarius, St. Romualdus, and St. An­drew; all these were brought from Greece, and probably during the time of the Ex­archie.

The Tomb of Galla Placidia and Daugh­ter to Theo­dosius the Great. There is another Tomb of this Prin­cess in the Church of St. Aquilin at Milan. She it was who founded this Church. G. Tor., Sister to the Emperours Arcadius and Honorius, is in the Church of St. Celsus, between those of Valentinian and Honorius. They assur'd us, that this is a very fine Monument; but we could not see it, he who had the Key being absent. We saw the Tomb of the PoetDante Da­lighieri, a Florentin, a Man of Quality and great Merit, died in Ex­ile at Ravenna, in the Year 1321, and the 56 Year of his Age. Dantes, in the Cloyster of the Conventual Franciscans. I transcribed the Epitaph, principally for the Curiosity of the Rhimes, which is as follows:

[Page 220]Another:

There is in the grand Place a very fair Brazen Statue of Pope Alexander VII. And you may see at the other end of the same Place, Two Columns, upon which were the ancient Patron, and the Arms of Venice, whilst Ravenna belong'd to that State; it being their Custom to erect the like Co­lumns in all the Cities of their Demesnes: But the Pope hath put on the same Pil­lars, the Statues of St. Victor, and that of Apollinarius, which are the Patrons of Ra­venna. They made us observe near this, under a Portico, the Gates of Brass, and some other Spoils which those of Raven­na took from Pavia; and which they pre­serve for a Memorial of the happy Suc­cess they had there.

A good Hour from Ravenna we entred into a Forest of Pines, which is Four Miles long, and whose Pine-Apples, they told us, are distributed all over Italy. The Sea is not far off, on the Left-hand; and on the Right are those Marshes, which reach out of sight towards the Ap­pennine. After we had passed the River [Page 221] Savio in a Ferry-Boat, we travers'd the little City of Cervia, CERVIA. which is in the midst of a miserable Boggy Country, where they make nothing but Salt. We stopp'd to Dine at Cesenate, Cesenate. on the Sea-side; and Three Miles from thence we found our selves on the Banks of the Ru­bicon, which they also callOthers say this is the Frumicino, about Two hun­dred Paces from the Pisa­tello. Pisatello. I confess I was not a little surprised when I saw our Coach pass that famous Brook without any stop; tho' I had learned also from Lucan, that it was no great River.

An Hour after we took our way by the Sea-side. The Sand is firm and even, without any Rocks or Shells: We pursu'd this Way till within a Mile of Rimini; where we were oblig'd to go within Land, that we might pass the River formerly called Ariminum, of the same Name with the City whose Walls it washes: But at present it bears the name of Marechia.

Rimini is a little poor City;RIMINI. yet the Country is rich, and well till'd. Sigismond Pandolphus Malatesta formerly fortified it; but its Wall is at present in great disor­der. You know the Malatesti's were for­merly Lords of many places in this Pro­vince. The Bridge of Marble, on which there are two very entire Inscriptions, by which it appears that it was built by Au­gustus and Tiberius, and the Triumphal-Arch erected by Augustus, are the two principal [Page 222] Monuments of this City. There are also to be seen the Ruiues of an Amphithea­tre, behind the Gardens of the Capuchins. And Five hundred Paces farther, with­out the City, there is a Tower of Brick, which was the Pharos of the ancient Ha­ven; but the Sea is fallen back half a Mile from this Place, and the Pharos is at pre­sent encompassed with Gardens. P. Ma­latesta finished the Destruction of the Har­bour, which was once accounted one of the best in Italy, to build the Church of St. Francis, with the Pieces of Marble which he took from thence. This Church, were it finish'd, might pass for a fine Structure. They keep there a Nostre-dame, which serves for nothing but to bring Rain, or stop it, when there is either too much or too lit­tle. She never is asked any thing but on one of these two Occasions.

The Library of the Count de Gambalon­ga is very numerous, but there are no Ra­rities in it, if we may give credit to him who showed it to us. They made us ob­serve in the midst of the Market, a kind of Marble Pedestal, on which these words are engraved: Caius Caesar Dict. Rubicone su­perato civili bell. Commilit. suos hic in foro Ar. adlocutus. The Statue of Paul V. in Brass, is in another Place; and near to that a Fountain of Marble of excellent Workman­ship.

Departing from Rimini, we march'd on the Downs for Fifteen Miles, between the Sea and the Fields. I observ'd as we pas­sed [Page 223] thro' the Village Catholica, Catholica. over the Portal of the great Church, an Inscripti­on, which says, That a Council of Bi­shops, almost all Arrians, being assembled at Rimini, in the Year 359, the Ortho­dox perform'd their Devotions in this Vil­lage, which hath ever since born the Name of Catholica. You know the History of this Council, if it may be properly so call'd. We perceived Ten or Twelve Miles from thence, towards the Appennine, the City and Republick of Marin; on the top of a Mountain, at the Foot of which are the Limits of that State. This little Swarm of Bees hath maintained it self very happily for many Ages; not be­ing expos'd to the Envy or Jealousie of any of its Neighbours. It is about Six or Seven Miles from Catholica to Pesaro: All this Country is strewed with fine Houses, and is very pleasantly cultivated.

Pesaro is greater, better built,PESARO. neater and pleasanter than Rimini: Its Situation is up­on a small Ascent, which gives it a purer Air, and better Light: Nothing can be more pleasant than the little Hills which surround it: It is a delicate Mixture of Pastures, Vineyards, and Orchards: The Olives are admirable; but the Figs in good­ness and esteem surpass all other Fruits: The Figs of Pesaro are famous over all Italy. The best Meat costs not above three Bayoques the Pound, which is Eigh­teen Ounces; that is to say, somewhat less than two Farthings. The Bread and the [Page 224] Wine are proportionably cheaper; and so of the rest. The Sea and the Rivers furnish it also with all sorts of excellent Fish; so that in all respects this City is excellently pro­vided with all things necessary for Life. It is tolerably well fortified, tho' something after the old fashion; and the Houses are generally handsome. We found no old Monuments in it. There is a very fair Fountain in the great Place; and a Statue of Pope Urban VIII. under whose Pontifi­cat, this City, and all the Dutchy of Urbin, were re-united to the Ecclesiastical State.

At our departure from Pesaro, we coast­ed along the Shore for Seven Miles, as far as Fano: FANO. It continues, still as I represented it on the other side of Rimini, excepting that the Sea brings thither great Heaps of Walnuts, Chesnuts, Rushes, Leaves, and divers other things which probably come from the Rivers, and are driven back from time to time by the Wind. One of our Company found on the Strand one of those little Fishes which they call in this Coun­try Cavaletto; some call it in France, Che­val Marin, or the Sea-Horse; and others the Little Dragon. I have often seen it in the Cabinets of Curiosities; and I believe you also know it. It becomes drie in a little time, by which means it is easily pre­served, without farther trouble. It is cer­tain this little Creature hath something of the Head and Neck of a Horse. They at­tribute many Properties to it; and they [Page 225] assured us, amongst other things, that it cures Madness from biting by a Mad-Dog, being eaten roasted, and applied to the bitten place, skinned and beaten with Honey and Vinegar.

Fano is a pretty little City: We found nothing remarkable in it but one Trium­phal-Arch; the Inscriptions of which are almost quite defaced. This Arch hath Three Gates, whereas that of Rimini is on­ly a single Arch. They boast of the Pig­nuts of Fano; and pretend that the Wo­men there are the handsomest of all the Country; but I fansie this pretended dif­ference may be a little suspected.

A Mile from hence, we passed on a Wooden Bridge, about Five or Six hun­dred Paces long, over the several Branches of the Pongio, which drowns all this Ex­tent, when the Snow on the Appennine begins to melt: And afterwards we took the Way on the Sea side, for Fifteen Miles, to Senegallia. Tho' this be an old City,SENEGAL­LIA. yet could we find no Marks of its Anti­quity; it is enclosed with good Walls, which are defended by some Bastions, but all very irregular.

By good fortune, and rather because of our weariness than any thing else, we re­fused to go to see a Play, which was act­ed at the Governour's House. The next Morning, which was the Day before Ye­sterday, they came to tell us, that a little before the end of the Play, the Arch which supported the Theatre, with part of [Page 226] the Stage, and the first Seats, fell under the weight with which it was over-loaded: That thirty Persons were killed on the spot, and a great many others wounded; and all that little City was in a great disorder, and unspeakable affliction on this occasion: There scarcely being any considerable Fa­mily which had not its share of this mis­fortune.

Departing from Senegallia, we entred a­gain on the Shore, and travelled seventeen Miles, without finding any Houses but an old Castle, and some Taverns about an hundred paces from the Sea. Near the little Village called the Turret, we fell back into the Land-way for three Miles to Ancona, ANCONA. where we now are. This City is seated on a double Hillock, at the point of the Pro­montory. It is bigger than any one of the four or five Towns last mention'd, but not much richer; though its Haven be very good,Traders of all Religions may dwell at An­cona, provided they make no publick Exercise of any, besides the Religion of the Country. They whiten Wax very well at Ancona. Du Val. and the Country about it very fruitful. It is a wonderful thing that the Trade is quite ruin'd, in a place which was formerly so famous for it.

'Tis true, that after the like example of Antwerp, we ought not to be surpris'd at any accidents of this nature. The Streets of Ancona are narrow, and consequently dark: There are neither fair Houses, fine Churches, nor considerable Places in it; and its situation, up Hill and down Hill, ren­ders [Page 227] it very inconvenient. The Citadel, which is on the first ascent you come to, commands both the City and the Haven. And on the other Hill which makes the point of the Cape, is the Church of St. Cy­riack, to which we ascended with a great deal of trouble and little satisfaction. It is a low and dark Edifice, of which the Front is cover'd indeed with fine Marble, but without any order or ornament of Archi­tecture. That which is principally esteem'd in this Church by the People of the Coun­try, are the Bodies of the pretended Saints, and the number of Relicks. They boast they have St. Ursula, as well as those of Cologne. As for us, what pleased us best, was the prospect which we had of the Sea, of the City, and of a pleasant Country. At the entrance of the Mote there is a Tri­umphal-Arch of very fine white Marble. This Arch was erected for Trajan, by order of the Senate. The Inscription, which is still very entire, let us know, that it was in acknowledgment of this, that that Prince repair'd the Harbour at his own charge. They told us, whilst we were considering this Monument, that, I know not what Monks had oftentimes earnestly requested, that they might employ the Materials for some use in their Convent: And that at last they were fain to drive them away with Threats, to be rid of their Impor­tunity.

The Exchange where the Merchants meet, resembles a Portico of a reasonable [Page 228] bigness. There were at the four Corners of the Arch, four Statues, which repre­sented Faith, Hope, Charity, and Religion. But there happen'd an Earthquake some Years since, which shook all these Statues, and threw down that of Religion.

I cannot forbear giving you some ac­count of the Habits, which, thanks to the Holy-day, we saw here to day. The prin­cipal Burgesses usually wear a black Cloak, lined with green; blue or fillamott Stock­ings, Shoes whited with Chalk, and tied with coloured Ribbon; the Doublets un­button'd, adorn'd with Embroidery of se­veral Colours, and great Sleeves to their Shirts, which hang down to their Fingers ends. The ordinary Citizens Wives and Daughters wear a kind of Coif on their Heads, with a long Fringe which covers their Faces, and drives away the Flies like Horse-trappings. The body of their Gown is red or yellow, fastned on four sides with Laces, and all overlaid with coloured Ga­loon: The Wastcoat short, their Petticoats of the same size, and all of fifty Colours: The great Madams are deck'd and trimm'd up as much as they can after the French Mode: But to say truth, their Apishness is more ridiculous than the others natural Dressing. All this does neither good nor hurt; but there is another Custom which, as we were inform'd, runs from Ferrara al­most all over Italy, and is very inconvenient, especially at this time of the Year. They know not what Glass is, and their Cham­ber-Windows [Page 229] are made of Linen or Paper, always torn; so that they are fain ro invent Machines every Evening, to shelter them­selves from the Weather. This made us sometimes bewail the loss of our Straw in Germany, where, if we wanted Beds, we had at least a good Stove, well heated and closed. To compleat our Misfortunes, they com­monly brought us a Fricacy of three Eggs, or as many Pilchards, for the Supper of five or six Persons. You must Fight for your Victuals, and yet pay as much as for the best Cheer. The set Price was at so much a Head, three Julio's for Dinner, and four for Supper, which comes to aboutAbout fifty Sols, French Money. Poly­bius relates, that in his Time (about the Year 550.) they had a good Meal in Italy for a Denier. Hospites, viatoribus honestè acceptis, & omnibus ad victum necessariis abunde subministratis non amplius quam siliquem capiunt; haec oboli tertia pars est. four Shillings a day.

I am inform'd the Post is just going, which makes me finish my Letter, that I may not miss the opportunity of sending it to you. I will add only one word, touch­ing the flux and reflux of the Sea. You must know, that it is more or less obser­vable, according to the distance from the bottom, or extremity of the Gulf. At Venice the Tide rises four foot and an half, or thereabouts, near to Ravenna three, at Pesara two, and one almost at Ancona; so that at last it decreaseth to nothing.

[Page 230]I hope we shall arrive at Loretto to mor­row about Noon. You may assure your self, I shall use all means necessary to give you an exact account of the Santa Casa.

LETTER XIX.

I Believe there is not in Italy a better Country, and worse ways, than be­tween Ancona and Loretto; we got thither yesterday like poor Pilgrims, weary and dirty, having been forced many times to alight to ease the Coach.

All the World hath heard of our Lady of Loretto: But since discourses concerning her are various, and the matter of it self very curious; I intend to give you an a­bridgment of all that I saw or learned on this occasion.

The House which they here call, Sacra­tissimo Sacello Gloriosa Cella. Domus aurea. Domus sapientiae. Vas insigne Devotionis. San­ctuarium Dei. Propitiatorium Altissimi. Civi­tas refugii. Puteus aquarum viventium. Ter­ror Daemonum. Spes desperantium. Gloria Je­rusalem. [Page 231] Tabernaculum foederis. Solium gloriae Dei. Sacrarium Divinitatis, &c. Sacrosan­ta Casa, is, say they, the same in which the Virgin Mary was born, where she was betroth'd and marri'd to Joseph, where the Angel saluted her, and where the Son of God was Incarnate.John Carta­geno, in the Book, Intitu­led, Arcana di Maria. E tanta è la dignità di questo luogho, cosi sublime la Maestà, ch'a a tutti i sacri luoghi, che sono sotto il Cielo, e pre­ferito, il sacello di Loretto. That is, And so great is the Dignity of this place, so sublime is its Majesty, that before all the Holy Places under Heaven, the Chapel of Loretto is to be pre­ferred. This House being at Nazareth, was transported by the Angels, as they say, in­to Dalmatia, Terribile é questo luogho quali altro non e che ca­sa di Dio & porta del Paradiso. Ja­cobin, l. 1. c. 1. and there plac'd on a little Mountain called Tersatto, the 10th. of May, in the Year 1291. It had remain'd there but three Years and seven Months, when the Angels took it away again, and brought it to the middle of a Forest, in the Terri­tory of Recanati, which is in the Marqui­sate of Ancona. The celestial Melody a­wakened the Inhabitants of the Neighbour­hood, who run from every side, and saw the Miracle, by the favour of a great Light, with which the little House was surrounded. Nature her-self leaped for Joy, and the very Oaks of the Forest, bowed themselves to pay Homage to it; they wanted only Tongues like those of Dedona. After this House had been there Eight Months entire, it was displeased with the Thieveries and Murders committed thereabouts continual­ly; so that it was carried the third time a [Page 232] Mile further to the same Hill, on which it now stands: but it was no sooner come thither, than a Controversie arose between two Brothers to whom the Land belonged, each being willing to have it in his Lot. This was the cause, that four Months af­terwards the Angels lifted it up the fourth time, and placed it some paces from thence, in the very midst of the Road-way; from whence it hath never stirred since. It is true, to prevent the inconveniencies to which this place, as well as the others, ex­posed it, and perhaps also to prevent the misfortune of a new change: They built in this very place a magnificent Church, in the midst whereof it remains free from all manner of Insults or Injury. And for its better preservation, they have since e­rected four Walls, which encompass it, and close it up as in a Box, without touch­ing it at all, for fear, lest the two Walls being united, they should one day be con­founded together. Some alledge another reason of this Seperation; and say, That the Stones recoiled with violence, and woun­ded the Work-men, when they would have joined it to this Holy Building; so that they were constrained to leave some space between them. All the beauties of Pain­tings, Sculpture, and Architecture, were display'd on that occasion; or at least all the most curious Workmen in the begin­ning of the last Age, were employed in this Work. It is of Corinthian Order, and of white Marble of Carrara, with extraordi­nary [Page 233] fine Basso relievo's, in which all the History of the Virgin is represented: There are also two Niches, the one above the other, between the double Columns. In the ten Niches below, are the Statues of the ten Prophets, and in the Niches above, the ten Sybils.

It is within this that the Santa Casa is enclos'd, which consists of one only Cham­ber, or rather one single Hall. It is forty four Palms long within, eighteen broad, and thirteen high; a Palm and an half making just thirteen Inches, English mea­sure.

They would have those very People who live on the place, believe, that this House is built of some unknown Stones, to make its Voyages seem more probable; but this is an absurdity that can only be swallow'd by such as are willing to be deceiv'd. I ex­amin'd the thing twice very nearly, and at leisure. 'Tis true, they have purposely made choice of Bricks of different shapes and unequal bigness, yet I perceiv'd very distinctly, that these Walls are made of Brick, and true Brick; together with some flat and greyish or reddish Stones, which are all common. The whole is built with Lime and Sand, as our ordinary Houses, but the Pieces are ill joyned, and ill ranged, which seems to evince, that this work was done in haste.

I will here make a little digression, to acquaint you with a thought which comes in my Head concerning it. It was under [Page 234] the Popedom of Boniface VIII. that this pretended Miracle happen'dIt is he who, they say, rais'd himself to the Papal Dignity like a Fox, liv'd like a Lion, and dy'd like a Dog. It was he who invented, and first wore the Triple Crown. Intravit ut vulpes, reg­navit ut leo, mortuus ut canis.. And if you make any reflection on the Life of that famous Fox, which all Histories represent to us as the most Cunning, the most Am­bitious, and most Covetous of all the Men in the World, and add to these Considera­tions, that of his Power and Authority, you will grant, without difficulty, that he was a Man fit to undertake such a Cheat as this: After he had feigned Angels who frighted the good Man Celestin, his Prede­cessor, and obliged him to return to his Hermitage, after his Abdication of the Popedom: And it is not at all improbable, that he made use of the same Angels for the Expedition of Loretto. But let us re­turn to the Santa Casa.

You may comprehend, by what I have said, that you cannot see the outside; and consequently what I speak of must be within. The Mason's Work is almost all open to view, but there are some frag­ments of Plaister covered with Painting, which might make one guess, that all the Walls were cover'd with it. The Image of the Virgin holding the little Jesus between her Arms, appear in five or six places in the remainders of the Painting. This Holy Tabernacle is situated from East to West, though this manner of building Churches is but little in fashion in Italy: Towards the East is the little Chimney of the Chamber, and over it, in a Nich, is the great Lady of Loretto. They say this Image of our [Page] [Page]

[Page 235] Lady is of Cedar Wood; and they have been inform'd by a thousand Revelations, that it was the Workmanship of St. Luke; she is four foot, or thereabouts in heightShe hath a great number of Robes for change, and seven different Mourning Ha­bits for the Holy Week. When ever they dress or un­dress her, they do it with a great deal of Ceremony.. The Ornaments with which she is deck'd, are of an inestimable value. Her Triple Crown, which is all cover'd with precious StonesThe King also gave a Crown to the Infant., was the Present of Louis XIII. King of France. They told me this Di­stich was Engrav'd thereon.

On each side of the Niche, there are Presses full of ancient Ornaments of the Statue; and in the other little Window, which is made in the Wall on the South side, they preserve some earthen Dishes, which serv'd for the use of the Holy Family. There are many of these Vessels which have been since cover'd with Plates of Gold; but we could see but one of 'em, which is cover'd underneath with Silver. They would make us believe, that this Porringer, which might have been discover'd by the bottom, is made of strange Earth, but it is Potter's-Ware, the Enamel of which is not so carefully par'd off, but that it appears still in some parts. Over against our Lady, at the end which looks Westward, is the Window at which they say the Angel entred. This Window seemed to me about three foot in heighth, and a little less in breadth.

[Page 236]They could not tell me what was be­come of the old Roof, nor the little Bell, which hath been observed in the ancient Pictures which represent this House: For the present Arch is of a later Fabrick. As for Bells they have some, and their proper use should be to appease Storms immediate­ly with their sound; but they never use them for fear of wearing them.

I must not forget two considerable things, which, they say, were transported at the same time with the House: the Altar made by the hands of the Apostles themselves, and the Stone on which St. Peter celebrated his first Mass. This is covered with Silver, and hath place among the Relicks, under the Altar where they usually officiate. The Pavement is of squares of white and red Marble. This is not the old Floor, for, they say, the Angels left that at Nazareth, with the Foundations of the House. To prove this History of the Translation, they insist on this Argument, that, as they af­firm, it appears, that it really hath no Foundation, but was fixed on the Earth, just as it fell from Heaven.

None are per­mitted to come in with offen­sive Arms, B. Bartoli. It is pemitted to lick the Walls, but they assure you, that terrible things happen'd to those who have been so bold, as to take away the least Particle.You enter this sacred place at three doors, two of which are at the end, which looks to the East, and give passage to cross from North to South: And thro' this door the Pilgrims are let in. The other is also on [Page 237] the South side, but towards the East, and leads to the place called the Sanctuary; that is to say, the space made between the Altar and the end of our Lady's Cham­ber.

I will not undertake to represent to you the Riches which are in this place: For that would be a thing too tedious and diffi­cult. I will only tell you, that it is an a­mazing sight to behold the infinite number of precious Stones, with which the Mantle of the Statue is adorn'd; there is nothing all about but Lamps, Statues, Busts, and other Figures of Gold and Silver: without mentioning the Candlesticks of Silver and Vermillion, which are eight and twenty in number, there are twelve of massie Gold, of seven and thirty pound weight each. The last rich Offering is always left for some time in a place fram'd on purpose, before the Eyes of our Lady: That which at present occupies that honourable place, is an Angel of Gold, holding a Heart bigger than an Egg, all covered over with Dia­monds of great value. The English Jesuite who conducted us, told us, it was a Pre­sent from the Queen of England. This Reverend Father also told us a great piece of News, concerning which, you ought, in my Opinion, to have given us some account. He assured us, that Princess was big with Child, and added, that undoubtedly it was by Miracle; since they had calcula­ted, that the very moment in which the [Page 238] Present entred, was the happy Minute in which she Conceived.

See the Verses which he made upon this Subject, and of which he would needs give me a Copy. He introduces the An­gel speaking to the Lady, and the Lady answering.

Never were Verses repeated with a more luscious Tune, or pleasant Air. The Je­suits Companion thought them so well pro­nounc'd, that he humbly begg'd a Repiti­on, [Page 239] though he knew them already by Heart: And this favour was presently granted him. My smiling Countenance seemed also to applaud them, but my si­lence did not please the Reverend Father. He suspected there was something which I dislik'd, and entreated me so earnestly to tell him my Thoughts, that I could not possibly refuse him. At first, I prais'd se­veral Passages of them, as the foecundo fonte, fruitful Spring, which the Angel begg'd, and the Dat, petit amplexus, which appear'd to me very significant. Yes, said he, the manner of expressing the thing, is not less sweet and fine, than emphatical and de­monstrative; for it denotes a mutual fer­vency. I added, that since he permitted me to speak freely, I could not forbear tel­ling him, that the beginning of the seventh Verse offended me as much as that of the twelfth seemed excellent; that the Uterus (Womb) of which he spake, needed no culture, according to all outward Appear­ances; that such an Epithet was injurious to her Royal Spouse; and, in a word, that I could by no means endure the Word In­culti, Untilled, which besides did not well express his thought. At first he would have defended himself, but he submitted at last; and it was concluded, that instead of In­culti miserere uteri, it should henceforth be, O humilem spectes uterum, or something to that purpose. I would have past over the Vale, but he confess'd, of his own accord, that he put it there only to fill a Gap. He [Page 240] admired the Alleluja beyond measure, and imagin'd, he could never have made a more happy conclusion. It is true, said I, Alle­luja is an angelical Word, it is an exclama­tion of Praise and Joy, which comes very seasonably where you have plac'd it: But you must remember, added I, that the three first Syllables of Alleluja are long, whereas you have made it a Dactyle, and this Hebrew Word is written in Greek, [...]: He excused himself for the Ante­penultima, by citingAmen reddi­dit; Alleluïa dixit, which is a Phaeleu­cian Verse. Prudentius, who had made it short, notwithstanding the Greek η, which signified little, the Word being He­brew, and confessed the Penultima was na­turally long. But he concluded, that the beauty of a thought might excuse the neg­lect of such niceties of quantity; and he resolved at any rate to keep his Alleluja. We had already alter'd our Discourse, when the young Brother desired permission to cri­ticise on the Natum of the fifteenth Verse. He said, the Son was not yet born, and therefore ought not be called Natum: And that he could not think it possible, the Name Natus or Filius should be given to an Embryo of half a Minute, or at least to the informed matter of a Foetus. But the Fa­ther-Poet laugh'd at him for this, and told him, that the Word of the most Holy Lady was a sure Word; that Born or to be Born, signified the same thing on this occasion; that it was properly a Question of the Gen­der, and that we may speak of things that will infallibly happen, as of those that are [Page 241] already in Being. The Fryar had yet ano­ther Objection to make against Natum ma­rem, but he only mutter'd a little, saying, there never was Natus foemina, for he was afraid of giving Offence: And thus ended our Conference.

There are a great number of Candle­sticks, with Branches and other Luminaries, all round the House without, that is, round the Walls which enclose it. But one of the greatest Rarities we observ'd, was the Processions of those who surround this House on their Knees, some compass it five times, others seven, and some twelve, according to the Mystery they search for in the number. Represent to your self forty or fifty Persons, Men, Women, and little Children, all creeping on their Knees, as they turn from one side, and a like num­ber meeting them, as they go to the other; every one is furnish'd with Beads, and mum­bles Pater-nosters: in the mean time they all strive to creep next the Wall, both to shor­ten their way, and to be nearest to the Holy Place; which makes them jostle each other, and causes no small confusion. This is never done, but when there is but a little Company there. The great resort of Pil­grims is at Easter, and about the Festival of the Virgin's Nativity, which they solem­nize in the Month of September; at which times they are obliged to take other Mea­sures. I cannot, without reluctancy, men­tion a thing, which may seem incredible, yet is affirmed by them for a certain Truth; [Page 242] which is, That in the Years of the greatest Concourse, they have several times count­ed two hundred thousand Pilgrims and upwards, during these two Feasts.

One can scarcely imagine a pleasanter sight, than the Caravans of He and She Pilgrims, when these Caravans come toge­ther, as bodies of Confraternities: Many Societies of Bologna, for Example, join to­gether to go on Pilgrimage in Company. Each Society have theirSaccola. Frocks of ordi­nary Linen-Cloth, with a Cowl of the same Linen, made like a Strainer for Hip­pocras, which quite covers their Heads, and leaves only three Holes for their Eyes and Mouth. There are Fraternities of all Colours: They forget not their Beads, Girdles, Pilgrims Staves, and the Arms of the Society, which are painted, or em­broidered, before and behind, on the Back and Breast of every Brother. These Pil­grims thus equipped, ride upon Asses, which are reputed to have some smack of Sanctity, by often going on Pilgrimage. They seldom fall; and if they happen to do so, they say 'tis without danger to the Pilgrim. So much for the Men. The Womens Habits are as rich as possibly they can procure: And they fix to the Body of their Gowns, a little Pilgrim's Staff, of the length of a HandSome are of Gold, Silver, Ebony, Ivory, Artificial Flowers, and many are enriched with Pearls, and Precious Stones, &c. A Staff, which gives occasion for many pleasant Thoughts, and serves for Diversion to [Page 243] all the Company on the Way. These So­cieties of Ladies ride in Calashes, surroun­ded with whole Squadrons of Ass-Troopers. Is it not pretty to see these Morrice-Dan­cers thus mounted and dressed, make an hundred Rounds, and Antick Postures, accompanied with foolish Songs to divert the Lady Pilgrims? Let not this Liberty of the Women surprize you. The Pre­tence of Devotion to our most holy Lady, is a Reason sufficient to release them from their usual Prisons: And besides, I doubt not but every one hath a Brother, or some other Spy near her.

I might tell you a great many things of the Church, but I fear you are cloy'd with such Stories: Only you must know, that all that is rich in the House is but of small value, in comparison of what we saw in the Treasury-Chamber. This Chamber is a spacious place: Ten great Presses, with folding-Doors, serve as Wain­scot to the Walls; the vaulted Roof is of a fine sort of Plaister, with gilded Com­partments, adorn'd with fine Pictures. The Silver-work is not thought worthy of ad­mittance into the Presses; it was allowed at the first, but at present it is confu­sedly heaped up in private places, till they have occasion to use it. These Presses are therefore filled only with pure Gold, remarkable Jewels, or Ves­sels and Ornaments more precious than [Page 244] GoldAmong these Jewels, they set the highest esteem on a Pearl wrought after the fa­shion of a Gondola; which they say was natu­rally mark'd with the Fi­gure of our Lady. B. Bartoli.: I will not attempt a Relation of the Particulars, for they exceed Ima­gination it self. To comprehend how these vast Riches were thus accumulated, you need only remember, that all the People, Princes and States, who acknow­ledge the Supremacy of the Pope, have continually for these four hundred Years brought them thither, and vied to out-do each other: You must also consider, that this Treasure is but a small part of the Presents they have received. They have built a Church, and a most magnificent Palace. They have settled Revenues, and purchased Lands beyond all view; and it is not to be doubted but they have Chests full of Money. This is not all; the Boxes furnish them with prodigious Sums, and one of the Secrets they make use of, to stir up the Devotees to fill them, I think very well deserves a Relation. They distribute a Printed Paper, by which they endeavour to perswade the People, that the Holy House hath no more than twenty seven thousand Crowns in Reve­nue;The Crown is worth near Five Shillings Six Pence En­glish Money. and by another Computation which they annex to the former, they show, that they are obliged to disburse thirty eight thousand six hundred and thirty four Crowns, to pay the Officers Salaries, and other Annual Expences. See then above eleven thousand Crowns, which according to this pretended Account, they fall short every Year. This is a ready way to take Opportunity to make pathetick Represen­tations [Page 245] of their Poverty, and to move the Compassion of devout Pilgrims, in favour of our good Lady, who, say they, loves nothing more than the Vertue of Libe­rality.

As we left the Treasury, they carried us to the Arsenal, which is not conside­rable: There they shewed us some Arms taken from the Turks, and relate, that these Barbarians having made a Descent to plunder the Treasury,Mahomet II. and after him Selim his Ne­phew. about fifty Years ago, our Lady struck them all blind just at the very Entrance; at which time they seized on part of their Arms. From the Windows of this Arsenal, you behold the part of the Sea, over which, as they say, the House was brought: They add, that ever since, there is a certain White Way on the Water; and our Jesuit made use of the highest Asseverations, to protest to us, that he had often seen it. Yesterday when we came hither, the Rabble flock­ed about us, and told us, That we must make haste to confess and communi­cate; without which, those who should dare to enter into the Holy House, would be shaken even to the Marrow in their Bones, and be in danger of sudden death. There must be as well Impudence on one side, on such Occasions, as there is a great deal of Prejudice and Stupidity on the other.

After we had seen some Apartments of the Palace, they led us into the Cel­lar, where we found one hundred and [Page 246] forty great Tuns, full of good Wine. From thence we went to the place where the Drugs were kept; where they shew'd us three hundred and forty five Vessels of Earthen-Ware, which they said were painted by Raphael, and are infinitely esteemed. On five of the largest, are St. Paul, and the four Evangelists; and on the others, the History of the Saints, the Metamorphoses of Ovid, and Plays of Children.

Loretto is a very little Place, though it be well fortified, and hath the Title of a City and Bishoprick. There is in the great Place, an admirably Beautiful Foun­tain of Marble, enrich'd with Statues of Brass. There is also one to be seen of Sixtus V. in the same Place: The Inhabi­tants of Loretto erected it for him, in ac­knowledgement of the Privileges they re­ceived from him. The principal Trade of this little City, consists in Medals, Rosa­ries, sanctified Beads, Images, Agnas Dei's, Measures of the Height of our Lady, and such like Wares.

Chaplets of Beads were invented by Urban II.We saw Chaplets whose Beads were like Goose-Eggs; these are for the great Days of Devotion. You must know, moreover, that there is no Person there, who affirms not himself to be descended from the Race of one who saw the ar­rival of the Holy House. All of them have heard their Grandfathers relate, that their Ancestors heard it from their Great-Great-Grandfathers; as those who live now fail [Page 247] not to tell it to their Children, and their Childrens Children. After this Traditi­tion, can you still be incredulous?

LETTER XX.

AS we pass'd thro' Recanati, RECANATI. which is a little City on the top of a Hill, three Miles from Loretto, I alighted for a while to see the great Church: I discover­ed nothing there worthy of Observation, but the Tomb of poor Gregory XII. Pope of Rome; who, as you know, was deposed from the Pontificate by the Council of Pi­sa; together with Peter de Luna, who as­sum'd the Name of Benedict XIII. and was Pope of Avignon.

Ten Miles from thence, in a most fruit­ful Country, on the Bank of the Potenza, we past thro' the Ruines of the City for­merly called Helvia Ricina, HELVIA RICINA. where there are yet to be seen great Fragments of an Amphitheatre, which was built of Stone [Page 248] and Brick mingled together, like that of Rimini. On this side the River, we were enclosed among Hills for two Miles, after which we arrived at Macerata, MACERATA where we lay. They told us this City was indiffe­rently large, and very pleasant; but it was late, and besides foul Weather, so that we walked not abroad. Between Macerata and Tolentino, there is a fat, and well cultivated Plain, though the Country be slenderly inhabited: They plant great Reeds, to prop up the Vines,The Buffalo's were brought to Italy, An. 595. Ciacon. and make use of Buf­falo's to draw their Ploughs: These Animals are far stronger than Oxen, and eat much less.

TOLEN­TINO. Tolentino is seated on a Rising Ground; I could not learn there was any thing re­markable there, but some Relicks, which are things that we take little notice of. From thence we came to the Town of Belfort, which I may tell you, by the bye, is the first place built with Stone which we had seen in Italy. A good Mile on this side, we came into the Province of Umbria, where we began to enter into the Confines of the Appennine.

A Gentleman of the Neighbourhood, who was going to Foligno, our way, ac­costed us near to Macerata. I was glad of his Company, hoping to get information of several things relating to the Country; we presently discoursed of our famous La­dy, of whom he related a hundred Sto­ries. The Discourse being turned to Reli­gion, he told me, amongst other things, [Page 249] that there was great rejoycing in Italy, that our King was become a Christian: when I desired him to explain his mean­ing; I found he had so many strange Notions, as I thought it impossible for a­ny Person to conceive. The Extravagan­cies he accused us of, were no less than those which the Pagans laid to the charge of the Primitive Christians. He would sometimes look upon me with some satis­faction, when I said any thing which plea­sed him: but he still suspected that I dis­sembled; and all my Rhetorick could not persuade him we were christned.

You must know that this is the gene­ral Opinion of this Country. They know no more of our Religion than they who live among the Tobinambouz. But those Gentlemen of the Frock, who are best acquainted with News, think it meritori­ous to scandalize us, and render us odi­ous, by the Follies and Impieties they im­pute to us.

Between Tolentino and Foligno, for near forty Miles, we were almost always a­mongst the Rocks, which made the ways often difficult. The principal Villages which we saw in our Passage, are Valcima­ra, Ponte di trava, Mutia, Dignano, Colfiorito, and Casa Nuova. At our leaving the Moun­tains, near to a little Village called Pala, we discovered from a height, the Plain of Foligno, which from thence makes one of the finest Prospects in the World.Hic ver Assi­duum. Virg. This great Bottom is encompassed with rich Hillocks, watered [Page 250] with many Rivers, strewed with many pleasant Houses, and extraordinarily im­proved. We had scarcely escaped from the Snows, the Rocks, and the cold and piercing Winds, but on a sudden we found our selves fanned by the Air of a sweet Climate. The Almond-Trees were alrea­dy blossom'd, which in a moment suc­ceeded to the Frosts of the Mountains: This, added to the Beauty of a fair and calm Day, gave us the delicious Prospect of a fine Summer. We could not give o­ver contemplating this delicate Garden, whose extraordinary Charms deserved the highest Praises.

After we had insensibly jogged on three or four Miles in a continual descent, we came into a streight and level Way, on the side whereof runs a small River ex­ceedingly clear;FOLIGNO. and we arrived at Folig­no, which is but a Mile farther, at the end of this way. Though this City be seated in a Terrestrial Paradise, it has nothing else considerable: Yet they say, that Trade flows thither more abundantly than to most of the other Cities of the Ecclesia­stical State which we have seen. Their Trade consists in Draperies, Gold and Silver Lace, some Silks, and Spicery. The Goths plunder'd it several times; and there are no old Monuments remaining.

A little while after we left Foligno, we saw on the other side of the Plain, upon an Eminence, the Town of Montefalco, where the miraculous S. Clara lies enterred. [Page 251] They show there, as they told us, three Stones about the bigness of small Nuts, which were found in theThey show all the Instruments of the Passion, which are found there with the Stones. Heart of that Saint, and upon which the History of the Passion is engraved. But that which is most admirable, is, that all the three Stones together, weigh no more than one of 'em singly; and consequently one weighs as much as all the three:

Not far from thence is the City of As­sisa, where they keep the Bones of that Saint, who preached to the Swallows, and made himself a Wife and whole Family of Snow; and whose Legend is stored with Fables. You know the Man.They pretend that his Body, and that of St. Dominick, are side by side standing on their Feet. At Porciuncula, five Miles from hence, they boast to have the first of these Saints, (St. Francis); and at the great Convent of Bologna they affirm also they have the Body of St. Dominick. His Relicks are under the great Altar of the Cathedral; but no living Soul is permitted to see them. It is said, that a certain Bi­shop of the Isle of Corsica, who believed himself to have a greater Privilege than o­thers, about sixty Years ago, obstinately resolved to see them, and that by Divine Permission, he was presently struck with sudden Death. It is true, so much inter­cession was made to this Saint, that a lit­tle after the Prelate came to life again.

Near the Village of Pesignano, be­tween Foligno and Spoletto, and at the Foot of the Hill which surrounds the Plain, a plentiful Spring runs out of four Outlets under a Rock, and instantly [Page 252] makes a little Lake. There the four Ri­vulets being united, make from thence a pleasant River, which afterwards forms an infinity of Meanders; which, without doubt, contribute very much to the fruit­fulness as well as Ornament of the Coun­try it waters. About two hundred Paces from this Spring, there is on the Way-side, a very little Temple of Corinthian Or­der. One who seem'd to have some skill in Antiquity, told me at Spoletto, that this little River is the Clitumnus, spoken of by some ancient Authors, and among o­thers, by Virgil in the Second Book of his Georgicks: and the Reasons alledged for this Opinion seem very probable. But that which the vulgar Opinion adds, that the little Temple, consecrated to Clitumnus, was made a Deity, is a Story without any appearance of Truth. For besides that this Temple is built Cross-wise, and Eastward, as the most part of the Christian Churches are; and that there are Crosses carved in divers places of the Pediments, which agrees not with the fashi­ons of Paganism: The three following In­scriptions are engraved on the Frises of the Front, and on both sides. (1) ✚ S C S Deus Profetarum qui fecit Redimptionem. (2) Deus Angelorum qui fecit Resurrectionem. (3) ✚ S C S Deus Aposto * * * *, the rest is broken off. The Characters are not in the least Gothick, nor any other part of the Architecture. Perhaps this Temple was built out of the Ruines of that of Clitum­nus. [Page 253] It is now call'd S. Salvatore; and the Bishop of Spoletto says Mass there once a year.

From Pesignano to Spoletto, SPOLETTO. which is but seven Miles, you coast the plain Country at the foot of the Hills; there are in all these Parts a considerable number of Vil­lages and Houses, scatter'd here and there. Spoletto lies within the Mountain, over the rich Plain which I describ'd before. It is a poor City, thinly peopled, ill built, and in a very uneven Situation. They carried us to the Cathedral, after they had boast­ed much of the height of the Body of the Church; but after all, we found nothing extraordinary in its height. The Pave­ment is made of little Pieces of Marble, inlaid, like the Church of St. Mark at Ve­nice; and all the Pediment of the great Portal, is fine Mosaick, on a Golden Ground. From thence we went to the Castle, which is in the highest place of the City. It is only strong by its Situa­tion; but we found nothing in it to re­compense the trouble we had in going up to it. They shewed us from this height, about five hundred Paces from the City, a Church which had been consecra­ted to Concord, and is now call'd The Chapel of the Crucifix. There are at Spoletto some other old Fragments, a Triumphal-Arch half ruined, some Remainders of an Am­phitheatre, and divers loose Marble Stones, but without any Inscriptions, except the Arch, on which we may yet distinguish some Characters. The Aqueduct which [Page 254] joyns the Mountain of St. Francis to that of Spoletto, is the more considerable, in that it is entire, and hath always been in use since it was first made: But this is a Gothick Work; it is three hundred and fifty Paces in length, and two hun­dred and thirty Foot high, measuring from the top of it to the bottom of the Valley.

Three Miles on this side Spoletto, we passed the Somma, which is the highest Mountain on this Road. And after we had been for five or six Miles amongst the dry and desart Rocks; those Rocks were on a sudden changed into Embel­lishments. During the space of four Miles, we found Nature had employed all its endeavours to cover these Mountains en­tirely with Laurels, wild Olive-Trees, Ta­marinds, Junipers, Ever-green Oaks, and a wonderful variety of other Trees or Shrubs, which preserve their Verdure all the Winter. If you pass that way in Ja­nuary, or July, you find it still almost the same. 'Tis true, that as the Plain of Fo­ligno looks chearful and pleasant, this seems to have a sad and melancholy Beauty. At our approach to Terni, those Mountains which had always confined us in a streight Passage, on the Brink of the Torrent, which runs at the bottom of the Valley, left us by degrees, and we found our selves in a great Forest of Olive-Trees. These Trees were loaden with Fruits, it being the Custom to let them ripen till [Page 255] they fall off themselves, or with the least shaking. The green Olives which they preserve in Pickle, are gathered before they are ripe, and they take away their bitterness by Art. Those which are ripe have no less bitterness than the green ones. And it is very strange that the bitterest of Fruits should produce the sweetest Li­quor. As we left this Wood of Olives, we travelled about a Mile in a Plain, whose agreeable Air, and Fruitfulness, was little inferiour to that of Foligno; and then came to Terni, which is on the River Nera, in the midst of this excellent Coun­try.

Terni is less than Spoletto, TERNI. but appeared to us somewhat better peopled. Its whole Trade consists in Oil. They told us, that during six Months of the Year,Pliny praises the Cabbages and Turneps of Interamnia. (It has been called Inter­amnia, Inter­amnia, and Interamni­um.) they make there an hundred Charges of Oil every Day. The Charge weighs six hun­dred Pounds, and is worth near twelve English Crowns. This City is veryInteramnia anno ante Christum 671 condita, vi­vente Numâ Pompilio. an­cient. It appears by an Inscription which we observed in the Porch of the Semina­ry, near the Cathedral, that its Foundati­on is not of much later date than that of Rome. This Inscription was made for Ti­berius, and the date is, Post Interramnam con­ditam DC C IIII. Terni was called Interam­na, or Interamnium, by reason of its situati­on inter amnes, between the two Arms of the River which Waters it. There is al­so another Inscription which was put on the Bridge in the time of Urban VIII. in [Page 256] which, it is said, that this Bridge was built by Pompey the Great.

We went- to see the famous Water-fall of Mount del Marmore, which is three Miles from Terni. The Way is rough and pleasant both together. You must ascend very difficult Rocks, and sometimes light from your Horse for fear of Precipices: But, in recompence, we had the pleasure in these Mountains to meet with some Nooks to the Southward, which never felt the Winter. We found amongst the Bushes, Jasmins, Laurels, Myrtles, Rosemary, and Nature smiling in February, (though it had been a very hard Winter) as much as you find it in April in your Island. At the third part of the Way, ascending the Hill Papinio, I observ'd below on the River side, a great space of Ground, planted with O­range-Trees. I counted at least seven hun­dred; and this was the first time we saw them in them in the plain Field without a­ny Shelter. But let us proceed to the Wa­ter-fall.

The River called Velerio, hath its source in the Mountains, twelve or thirteen Miles from the place where it falls down. It pas­ses into the Lake ofOr Piede Lu­co. The Trouts of this Lake have no Back-Bones. Du Val. Peter Tolen­tin a Sieneze, having rid into the River on Horse-back above the Fall, was hurried away by the Current, and took leap with his Horse; but ha­ving time to call on our Lady of Loretto, he escaped, being only soundly we [...]. Balt. Bartoli descript. of Loretto. Luco, at the distance of nine Miles from its Head, and goes out bigger by half than it entred into it. When it comes to the place of its Fall, the Val­ly which it quits, proves to be on a high [Page 257] Mountain, considering the depth which attends it; there then this River which al­ready marched with a swift Current, all in an instant throws it self down from a craggy Rock, three hundred Paces high, and falls into the hollow of another Rock, against which its Waters break themselves with such Violence, that it rises like a Cloud of Dust, double the height of the Fall, which makes a perpetual Rain in all the adjacent parts. This pulverized Wa­ter forms in the Sun an infinite number of Rain-bows, which are always diminishing and encreasing; which cross themselves, and flutter about, according to the various rebounding and spurting up of the Surges, and as this Watry Smoke is thicker or thinner. I can assure you, the sight of this Object fills the Spectator with an A­stonishment that I cannot express. The River seems to hasten its Course, before its Precipitation, because of the sloping of its Chanel: These Surges press on as if they strove for precedency.Du Val hath written, that there is a cer­tain Land near the Nera, which in dry Weather turns to Dirt; and when it Rains, moulders into Dust. Whilst they are still in the Air, they foam, dash against, encounter and shock each other, and seem to be entangled together: At last they fall into an Abyss, which they themselves have made; from which they break forth im­petuously, some through the Crevices of one Rock, others through the Jaws of ano­ther; after which they run on, grumbling and murmuring, a little farther; and at last mingle themselves with the Waters of the little River Nera, which they en­large [Page 258] by at least three quarters. And so ends the poor Velino.

NARNI.From Terni to Narni, is a plain Way, and a good Country; it is but seven Miles. This last City promises something at a di­stance, because of the pleasant little Hills which we see about it, when we come from the side of Terni: But when we en­tred it, we were surprised to find it in a manner desolate: Its Streets are dirty and narrow, and the situation so rough and uneven, that one cannot go scarce three Steps without mounting or descending. According to the sordid custom of the Coun­try, you can see nothing in the Windows but torn pieces of Paper, which is a sign of beggary, and makes the Houses appear as if they were uninhabited. I observed, as we passed, two pretty handsome Foun­tains of Brass. The Emperour Nerva was a Native of Narni.

We turned aside, a little before we went into the City, to see the Ruines of a Bridge, which, as they say, was built un­der the Empire of Augustus, and which they look upon as a thing worthy of Ad­miration. The great pieces of Marble with which it is built, are joined dry with­out any Cement, and without Hold-fasts of Iron. Its height is extraordinary; it joyns the Mountain of Spoletto to a neigh­bouring Mountain, and ends in the Way that leads to Perusa. Of four or five Arches, there remains but one entire; the top of the Mold of the greatest is broken. Many [Page 259] Persons, who I believe are well informed, have told me, that this Arch is one hundred and seventy foot in breadth; and one may by the Eye guess it near so much; which far exceeds the famous Bridge of the Ri­alto.

Departing from Narni, we found our selves again between the Mountains, which continue for eight Miles, to the Town of Otricoli: Near that on a Plain,OTRICOLI. are the Ru­ines of the ancient Ocriculum. We went a little aside to take a nearer view of these dismal Remains, but we could find nothing which might afford us any Instruction. A while after we passed the Tyber, over a fair Stone Bridge, which was begun under Sixtus V. and finished under Urban VIII. as appears by an Inscription engraven on it.

It was late before we arrived at Citta-Ca­stellana; CITTA-CAS­TELLANA. and our intention being to part thence early the next Morning, we willing­ly gave credit to the Report of those, who told us we should find nothing remarkable in it.

Near to Regnano, we found the old Via Flaminia, with its Pavement of nine hun­dred Years continuance, which remains entire in this place to Admiration; we not having perceived any Footsteps of it since we left Rimini, to which this Way extended it self. I shall give you a more particular Account of it on some other Oc­casion.

[Page 260]We dined at Castel Nuovo, which is but a Paltry Town, as well as Regnano. Al­most all the rest of the Country hitherto, is untill'd, and without Inhabitants: The Soil is bad and the Land generally flat, but uneven. We saw every where an infinite Number of ancient Ruines. After we had repassed the Tyber upon the Bridge, which by Tacitus, and other ancient Authors, is call'd Pons Milvius, and at pre­sent by corruption, Ponte-Molle; we met with a paved Way for two Miles, which lead us between Gardens and Houses of Pleasure, to the famous City of Rome.

LETTER XXI.

IT is so pleasant to travel in good Com­pany, that for this reason we readily engaged in a Journey to Naples, some­what sooner than we had design'd. There are many surprizing Rarities in this excellent Country, which may be observ'd by those who have the Patience to wait till the Spring is a little advanc'd. Besides, [Page 261] in this Season the Fields begin to put on a more smiling Countenance; and all the Journey is extreamly pleasant. 'Tis true, it hath been so hard a Winter, that we could not expect a forward Spring; and we now find, that tho' we had taken their Counsel, who advised us to put off our Journey till April, we could not have ex­pected any considerable Advantage by so long a delay, by reason of the continu­ance of the Cold. And besides, this would have spoiled all our Measures at Rome, where we intend to remain without in­terruption, since we design not to make a­ny long stay there.

They commonly account it five Days Journey from Rome to Naples: The Road is bad, and we met with but few things worthy of Observation in it: But we find what may make us amends at Naples, at the Mountain of Vesuvius, and amongst the Rareties of Bayae, Puzzolo, and other neighbouring places.

Wherefore after we had rambled about Rome for two or three Days, and run o­ver the principal things which our Curio­sity thirsted after, we left it in order to our Journey for Naples. Twelve Miles from Rome, we came to Marino, a great Town belonging to the Prince Colonna, former­ly known by the Name of the Villa Maria­na. Here we left the level Country,Marino, or Villa Marii. and de­parting from Marino, ascended a stony Moun­tain, where are nothing to be found but Wood and Buffalo's. I shall say nothing [Page 262] at present of the Lake of Castle-Gandolfo, which we coasted for near an Hour, it being our intention to visit it at our re­turn, when we shall have more leisure for Observation.

As we descended the Mountain four or five Miles on this side the Lake, we discovered the Sea, and saw on a little Hillock on the Right-hand, the City cal­led Citta de la Vigna, which is the ancient Lanuvium; a Municipal City, and the place where Antoninus Pius was born; and not the Lavinium of Aeneas, as the vulgar Opinion is. Lavina Litora are ten or twelve Miles from thence, towards that part where Prattica is now seated.

VELITRI.In the Evening we reached Velitri, a lit­tle City enclos'd with a Wall, and seated on a little well-cultivated Hill. It was formerly an important place, and trouble­some to the Romans, but at present it is inconsiderable.

'Tis the general Opinion here, and even the Servants at the Inn inform'd us at our Arrival, that the City of Velitri was honoured with the birth of Augustus. Some one of our Company asked who that Augustus was, and were answer'd, that he was the first Christian Emperour. I expected to have heard him call him St. Augustus; for I observe here, that the People easily ca­nonize all the Illustrious Men of old, Pa­gans as well as others. Finally, Augustus was born atNarus est Augustus M. Tullio Cicerone & Antonio Coss. regione Palatii ad capita bubula. Rome, as Suetonius positively [Page 263] affirms. It is true that hisGentem Octaviam Ve­litris praeci­puam olim fuisse multa declarant. Family was originally of Velitri, and that he was put to nurse in the neighbourhood of that Ci­ty. The same Author relates, that in his time, they spake of the Chamber where that Prince was nursed, as they are wont to do at present of the Holy House of Lo­retto: Huc introire nisi necessariò & casté religio est. Temere adeuntibus, metus & horror obji­ciebatur.

In the midst of the great Place of Ve­litri, there is a very fine Statue of Brass of Pope Urban VIII. I observed that the Statues of the Popes always represent them sitting. This is done, without doubt, to de­note the Empire which they have over all o­ther Princes in the World. They carried us to the Marquiss Ginetti's House; the si­tuation of which is very agreeable, and the Apartments adorn'd with a great num­ber of Antiquities.

Coming down the Hill of Velitri, we observed a great number of Caves, and Cellars dug, under the Rocks, to preserve the Wines cool. After which we entred into a Country poorly inhabited, and all open, for about fifteen Miles, unto the very foot of the Mountain, on the top whereof we saw the little City ofBuilt up­on the Ruines of the old; Sora. Sermoneta, quasi Sorella della Citta di Sora, saith Th. Valla. Ser­monetta.

About four Miles on this side, they made us observe, on the Left-hand about [Page 264] fifty Paces from the High-way, some old Ruines, which, as they say, are the Re­mains of the place called by St. Paul, the three Shops, in the twenty eighth Chapter of the Acts. This place is commonly cal­led, the three Taverns; the reason whereof is, without doubt, because the Words [...] in Greek, The Word [...] is a Latin Word adopted by the Greeks. and tabernae in Latin, have more relation to the Word Taberna, than to that of Bottega. It is something after this manner that they derive S. Longinus from [...], and St. Tiphines from [...],

On the Right-hand we saw the Pro­montory, at present calledMons Cir­caeus, anti­quis famosissi­mus, in quo Circes habi­tasse fertur, & herbis effica­cissimis ibi natis homines in bestias commutasse. Ant. Magin. Monte Circello, which by the Report of some Naturalists, was formerly an Island. It was there, say the Poets, that the jealous Circe changed poor Scylla the Mistress of Glaucus into a Sea-Monster, and the Companions of Ulys­ses into Hogs.

SETIA.The little City of Setia is on a Moun­tain a little on this side the Three Taverns. It was formerly famous for its Wines. Se­tinum ardebat in auro, saith Juvenal. But at this Day the Mountain is become of a­nother Nature; it produces scarce any thing at all. I observed amongst the Woods with which these Mountains at present are cover'd, many of the Plants called Ficus Indica. Some of them grow up to the height of thirty or forty Foot, [Page 265] with Trunks as thick as a Man. The Laurels and the Myrtles are common in the Hedges; and here we begin to find Orange-Trees frequently in the open Fields. Near to Setia, at the Village Casa-Nuova, is a great Marish, on which you may take Boat, and go streight to Terracina. But we turned to the Left, in­to a Valley which led us to the Moun­tain, and City of Piperno, where we lay.PIPERNO. I observed in our Way, a pretty large Church-yard, all planted with Orange-Trees, which is doubly contrary to the usual Custom. For first, there are no Church-yards in Italy; every Family hath its Cha­pel or Vault in some Church or Convent; and if there be any publick place where they bury those who are very poor, which I have not yet seen; It is only some Corner of Land, in a private place without the Ci­ty. And besides, it is the Custom where there are any Church-yards, to plant Pines, Yew-Trees, or Cypresses; but no Orange-Trees.

Piperno is a new City, built near the old Privernum, the Metropolis of the Vol­sci, and Residence of their King Metabus, Father to the famous Camilla, (Virg. lib. 11.) Some say that Privernum was called Piper­no, because (when they built it out of the Ruines of the other) they found in the place where Piperno now stands, a Tree which bore Pepper: From whence it comes, say they, that this City hath a Tree in the Scutcheon of their Arms, [Page 266] with the Head of Camilla born by a Lyon. Others are not of this Opinion: They believe that Piperno is so called by cor­ruption for Priverno, or Privernum; and that the Tree now discoursed of, is no Pepper-Tree, but a Laurel: from whence they draw great Consequences of the Bra­very of the old Privernates.

The Bishoprick of Piperno was re-united to that of Terracina (by Honorius III.) be­cause of its Poverty; ob indecentem paupertatem, saith Favonius Leo. The Bishop's Chair is still kept in the Choir of the old Cathedral.

They have in the Church of St. Bene­dict, a famous Image of our Lady by St. Luke, which would not be burned at the Saccage of Privernum, and which is the grand Object of the Devotion of Pi­perno; together with St. Sebastian, St. Tho­mas Aquinas, and the Illustrious Camilla.

Lillies and Daffodils grow naturally, as they say, on the Hillock of Piperno, cal­led Colle Rosso. There is a certain fine Earth found there, named Buccaro, excellent for making Potter's Ware. From the top of this Hill, you discover the little City of Mayença; near which is a Lake, the Wa­ters of which, by the Report of P. Paolo Benvenuti, rise considerably on a sudden two Days before Rain.

Leaving Piperno, we passed over some sandy Hillocks, full of those various sorts of Shrubs which are Green in all Sea­sons. In the Wood which we go into af­terwards, are a great Number of Cork-Trees. [Page 267] This Tree extreamly resembles an Ever-green Oak; and I believe we may very well call it a kind of Oak, since it bears Acorns. When you strip other Trees of their Bark, you at the same time take away their Sap and Life, whereas far o­therwise, when you take away the Bark from this Tree, it grows stronger, and presently produces a new Coat, as Sheep after shearing bear a new Fleece.

Departing from the Wood of Piperno, we went out of the Way two or three hundred Paces,FOSSA NUOVA. This Abbey is on the Ruines of the Forum Appii, of which Benve­nuti assure us, some Foot-steps remain. to see the Abbey of Fos­sa Nuova. The Monks who led us into the Church, told us, That Thomas Aquinas going from Fondi to the Council of Lyons, and finding himself ill, alighted from his Mule, stuck his Stick in the Ground, and fastened his Mule to it, and afterwards fell asleep in a Corner of the Wood, near the Church. It is said, that the Mule getting loose, run furiously into the Church, those who were there not being able to hinder it: They add, that the Beast was so insolent, as to set his Feet in the Choir; but immediately he sunk into the Pave­ment,Others say, that the Mule wandred some days in the Wood, and that running to the Tomb of his Master, he died there for Grief. and was presently punished with sud­den death. They show the pretended print of his Feet, and have put little Iron Grates over them, to preserve them. More­over, as they searched for the Master of the Mule to punish his negligence in not tying him better, they were surprised to see that it wasVillani, and others, write, that he was poisoned by order of Charles I. King of Naples. St. Thomas, who was ready [Page 268] to expire, for want of his Mule to carry him to seek for Relief. They brought him to the Convent, where he died some Days after, and his Body was laid for some time in this Church; from whence it was af­terwards removed to Fondi, and from Fondi to Tholouse.

About ten Miles on this side Fossa Nuova, we found the old Way called Via Appia, Appius Clau­dius Censor, Aquam Clau­diam induxit. & viam Appi­am stravit. Entrop. Appia Longa­rum teritur Regina via­rum. Statius. which was made by Appius Claudius, when he was Censor. The Alterations which time makes on the Surface of the Earth, is the Cause that the Ways are many times changed also, as 'tis plain from dai­ly Experience; but nothing more evident­ly demonstrates this truth than this part of the Via Appia which we met with. You see it come out of a deep Marish; and at present wholly inaccessible, where­as formerly it was the direct Road from Capua to Rome. You are obliged to make a great turning, when you leave this Way to go into that of Piperno. I observed the same thing between Citta-Castellana and Rome, on occasion of the Via Flaminia, of which we find great pieces preserved on this side Regnano; and in some places, and particularly towards Castel Nuovo, fifteen Miles from Rome, this ancient Pavement may be observed, which sometimes mounts on Ascents now inaccessible, and in other places loses it self in deep Valleys, which cannot be descended into, and afterwards appears again some Miles farther. 'Tis certain, that by Winds, Rains, great Floods, [Page 269] Earthquakes, and other Accidents, Plains are raised up, and Hills fall down; Val­leys are filled up; the Earth gains upon the Sea, and the Sea on the Earth; the Sea makes the Earth Lakes, and the Earth turns the Sea to Islands; Rivers are dried up, and change their Course; Mountains swell, and become level; and the Figure of the Globe is in perpetual variation. I could produce Examples of all this. It is true, these Changes are not universal. The length of the Pavement, for Example, which continues for two Miles or there­abouts, to Terracina, is exactly level with the circumjacent Lands.

Of all the Antique Monuments I have seen hitherto, there is nothing in my mind deserves so much to be admir'd, as these famous Roads. The Buildings which are preserved, have been exposed to few Ac­cidents; and all things being well consi­dered, it is rather matter of Astonishment, that Edifices so exceedingly solid, were so soon ruined, than to see them still remain­ing. But that an innumerable Number of Passengers, Horses, and Chariots, should incessantly tread on a Pavement for so many Ages, and yet so considerable Frag­ments of it should still be found entire, is a thing which seems incredible. TheProcopius saith they were all Square, but he was mista­ken. Stones of this Pavement are of unequal bigness; their Colour Greyish and Red­dish, almost like rusty Iron, extreamly hard, and ten or twelve Inches thick. To speak generally, the greatest, in their [Page 270] largest Dimensions are little more than two Feet, and the least not less than one. Though the shape of these Stones be irre­gular, they are all so exactly join'd, and closely united, that it is impossible to thrust a Sword's Point between them, in those places which have still kept their old si­tuation. I have measured the breadth of these two Ways, Via Appia, and Via Fla­minia, and I found them throughout twen­ty Roman Palms broad, with very little dif­ference; which makes fourteen Foot, less by four Inches, English Measure: This is not too much for the meeting of two Chariots. These Ways which they call Viae Consulares, had on each side Borders of the same Stone with the Pavement; and these Borders stood up two Foot, or there­abouts: I have seen them in some places very well preserved. These were called theCippi. 'Tis true, they were some­time called Marginatio­nes. But Lip­sius pretends that these Marginatio­nes, were Pavements on the sides, which were made bigger than the other. I remarked that in this sence the Cippus and Marginatio are sometimes of the same piece. Margines, or Marginationes Viarum; it is between these Borders the Ways are to be measured at a certainty. The Chari­ot Wheels have in some places made deep Ruts, at the most three or four Inches; and the manner after which the Canal of this Rut is followed from one Pavement to another, is one of the Proofs of its ancient situation. The rest of the Pave­ment is even and whole, without any ap­pearance that the Horse-shooes have worn it in the least. They told me, that there is another very thick Lay of Stone, placed on a Bed of Sand, which serves for [Page 271] the Foundation of this Pavement, and hinders it from sinking. When we ap­proached to Terracina, we saw on both sides, the Ruines of many ancient Monu­ments, which, according to Custom, were erected near these great Roads, both for Ornament, and to give Travellers some Idea of the Roman Magnificence. After all if on the one side these Ways were beautiful and advantageous; on the other so hard and slippery a Pavement, was not with­out its inconveniencies: and we took care to avoid it, at the same time we admired it.

The ancient Anxur, Scopulosi verticis An­xur. Sil. Ital. which was after­wards called Trachina, because it is upon a Rock of difficult access, is at present by corruption called Terracina. It is little,TERRA­CINA. poor, and ill peopled; and all the Coun­try about almost uninhabited. A little on this side Terracina, they were forced to cut the Rocks, to continue the Pavement of Appius, between the Sea and the Moun­tains; this is in many places to be seen within the space of one Mile. The Rock is called Pisca Marina: Terracina was besieged by the Turks. The Inhabi­tants made a Vow to give twenty thou­sand Eels yearly to St. Bennet, if by his intercession they should be freed from this danger. The Turks raised the Siege a few days after. Their Vow was accomplished, and the Eels are carried every Year to the Benedictines. Theod. Valla, and Ostiensis It is near twenty six Foot high; and the ancient Cyphers are marked from ten to ten, in a Capital Roman Character, on the Face of this Rock, which is cut perpendicular; so that the Cypher on the top is CXX. But an [Page 272] Antiquary no less exact than curious and learned, told me at Rome, that [...]he had measured these Distances, and that he found them almost all unequal. Some conjecture, that the principal end of the Undertaker, was to measure his Work, and that he marked the Divisions only slightly, it being no advantage to him. Others believe that every Distance is the Work of ten Days; and that the inequa­lity of the distances was caused by the more or less ease the Workmen found in cutting the Rock. And that which gave occasion for this Thought is, that the di­stances above are greater than those below, the Rock still growing narrower towards the top. But I find one main Objection against this Sentiment; for probably they began to work at the top of the Rock; so that the first Tenth should have been marked above, and the Number CXX. found below; all this seems to me not easie to be understood.

After we had traversed Hills covered with Cork-Trees, having on the Right-hand the Marish and the Sea, and always following the old Pavement, we came in the Evening to Fondi. And an old Wall which is three Miles on this side Terracina, makes the Separation between the Ec­clesiastical State, and the Kingdom of Naples.

FONDI. Fondi is in a flat Country, near a Lake which bears the Name of the City, and which takes great Circuits in a [Page 273] Moorish Bottom, between the Hills and the Sea. They say this Lake produceth Eels of an extraordinary bigness.Others say Chairadin, Caratin, and Cheireddin. Haria­den Barbarossa, King of Algier, and Ad­miral to the Grand Signior, finished the desolation of this poor little City of Fondi, in the Year 1534. They have painted the History of its Destruction, in the Church of the Annonciata. Barbarossa had a particular design onJulia de Gonzaga, Wife to Vespa­sian Colonna. Barbarossa would have made a present of her to the Grand Sig­nior. She was very beau­tiful. He de­stroyed the City out of spight, because he missed his aim. Schrad. a Princess of the House of Gonzaga, who was then at Fondi: But that Princess, being advertised by a Gentleman of the City, of the Design the Pirate intended to execute, got immedi­ately out of her Bed, and saved her-self, naked to her Smock, by that Gentleman's assistance. The History adds, that not enduring to remember without indignati­on, that a Man had seen her in that Po­sture, she caused him to be stabbed some time after.

Fondi is all paved with Stones of the Via Appia, but we do not find that they are joined so well as heretofore. Near the Castle, there is a great Garden, which, according to Tradition, belonged to Cicero. I believe there are no other Proofs of it. The Dominicans have a great veneration for the Chamber of Thomas A­quinas, and for the Auditory where he taught. They also keep with extraordina­ry care, an old Orange-Tree, which, they say, this Doctor planted. He died anno [Page 274] 1273, or according to the old Legend, 1274; by which you may judge of the Age of this Tree. There is a Story of a certain Tree of Cochin-China, which lived two thousand Years; and we have a Re­lation of China, which tells us of a Tree so old and so big, that twenty Men could scarcely embrace it: But Orange-Trees are not of so long continuance. It is an incredible thing, for every body as­sures me here, that never any of these Trees attained to the Age of four hun­dred Years. It was necessary the Domi­nicans should have some miraculous me­morial of the Angelical St. Thomas, as well as of their great Patriarch St. Dominick, of whom they have another Orange-Tree, at St. Sabina, on Mount Aventin: But what may not a Man believe on this Sub­ject, after what Surius relates of the old Olive-Trees of Nazareth, and of the ac­cursed Fig-Tree, which was to be seen within these two and thirty Years? That this Trunk hath lasted so long, after the Curse it received, is a thing not easie to be understood, without taking notice of the nature of the Tree, which allows it not so long a Life.

They would persuade us at Terracina, that we should find the Leaves of the O­range-Tree of St. Thomas, of another shape than those of other Orange-Trees; as they talk of the Almond-Tree of St. Francis, which is yet to be seen on Mount Luco, and of which the Leaves grow, as they [Page 275] say, with Crosses well shaped. But we could not perceive this pretended difference; nor could we find that the Winter had been more favourable to the Oranges of this venerable Tree; for they were all frozen, as well as those of the Garden of Cicero, who, I may tell you by the bye, passes at Fondi for a kind of Saint, as well as Augustus at Velitri: When this Tree shall die, if at least it ever must, they propose to them­selves to make a Shrine of it, to contain some Relicks of the Saint who planted it. This is no ill Thought. It is thus that they keep somewhere in a Village of Ti­rol, one of the biggest Nails of St. Chri­stopher, in a Case which is made of the Palm-Tree which grew from his Pole, after he had planted it in the Earth, when he carried over the Child Je­sus from one side of the River to the o­ther. Leaving Fondi, we were oftentimes forc'd to pursue our Way on the old Pavement, for ten Miles, to Mola. One is almost always amongst the Mountains; and this unevenness of the Soil joined to the hardness and smoothness of the Stones, renders the Way very troublesome. The Horses shiver as they go, as if they were upon Ice; and must be every Foot new shod. At our approach to Itru, which is a little City on a Rock, six Miles from Fondi, I observed in divers places of these Mountains, large Trees, called in this Country Soucellés, which bear Cods of half a Foot long, or thereabouts, and [Page 276] thick as Bean-Cods. These Fruits are dried, and taste of Honey, somewhat like Manna; I learned here that their true name is Carobba.

MOLA.We arrived about ten a Clock in the Morning, at the little City of Mola, on the Sea-shore. There are to be seen store of Marble-Stones, and other Ruines ofHormiae an­tedictum, Plin. Formiae, that famous City which was built in this very place by Antiphinanes, King of the Lestrygons. It was a sad thing, that one of the mostO temperatae dulce Formiae Littus, &c. Martial. delightful places of the World should be inhabited by Man-Eaters. The Air there is extreamly sweet, the Fruits are admirable upon all the sides of the Hills watered by the Gulph, between Cajeta and Mola; there are most excellent Wines;Sugar-Canes are also plant­ed here. Schrad. all things are plentiful, and the Sea very full of Fish. We took a Walk amongst the Ruines of an old Palace, which, they said, belonged to Ci­cero. It was the Sea partly which de­stroyed it. We found on the Shore many little pieces of Mosaick, which sufficiently demonstrate it had been formerly a re­markable House. It goes for truth, that they have taken away some Inscriptions that made it appear to be Cicero's. I could not without Grief remember the sad destiny of that Great Man, who be­ing drawn from this House where he be­lieved he might have been sheltred, du­ring the last fury of Anthony against him, [Page 277] was at lastby the Cen­turion Popilius Lenas, whose Life Cicero had saved by his care and eloquent Orations. Cicero died sixty four Years old. The Murderer, (saith Calvis.) received of Anthony the Summ of 44000 Crowns of Gold, for his Reward. Appian Alexandr. makes the Reward far greater. murdered in his Litter, en­deavouring to find some other Refuge. I'm persuaded that the sight of a Place where a Disaster happen'd, does very much heighten our Sorrow for it.

After we had considered a little whe­ther we should go to Cajeta, which is on the Point of the Promontory, over-against and in sight of Mola, the Sea be­ing a little too brisk for the little Barks which waited for us: We at last concluded on the Passage. But to tell the truth, the Voyage was made with a great deal of dancing, though some of the Company had little mind to the Sport. The Rain that over-took us, and a great deal of bad Weather, obliged us to stay but a little time at Cajeta; besides, we were to travel that Day, and to lodge about fifteen Miles from Mola. The Pas­sage over the Gulph is about four Miles.

Cajeta appeared to us of a reasonable largeness, and very wellTu quoque littoribus nostris, Aeneia nutrix, Aeternam moriens famam Cajeta dedisti. Aeneid. 7. fortified:CAJETA. Its Haven is good, and the Situation of the City on a high Rock, renders the Ap­proach difficult. There is to be seen the [Page 278] Tomb ofHis Epitaph is thus related by Arnold Ferron: Aucto Imperio, superatâ Italiâ, devicto Gallo, pon­tifice obsesso, Româ captâ: Borbonii hoc marmor cineres continet. Another: Francia mi dio la leche, Espanna suerte y ventura, Roma mi dio la muerte, Y Gaeta la sepultura. Charles of Bourbon, Constable of France, who was killed at the sacking of Rome, and the ancient Mausolaeum of Mu­natius Plancus, by whose advice, (as Suetonius reports) Octavius Caesar preferred the Name of Augustus to that of Romulus; which some would have given him, as to the Re­storer of the City of Rome. This Mau­solaeum is commonly called The Tower of Orlando.

Our Guide carried us in the first place, to a cleft Mountain, which hath no o­ther Name than that of La Spaccata. That great Rock is separated both above and below, from the Top, to the Sea. The distance of this Separation is four or five Foot at the Entrance, but enlargeth it self a little towards the Heighth. It is manifest from the meeting of the Con­cavities and Convexities on each side of the Rock, that it was really divided. They say this was one of the Prodigies which happen'd when our Saviour gave up the Ghost. And they show against one side of the opening of the Mountain, the [Page 279] print of a Hand on the Rock which soft­ned under it: They affirm it softned on the Challenge which an Unbeliever made; and they have graved this Distich be­low it:

They have made steps to go down into this double Rock,All the Barks, Gallies, and o­ther Vessels, which pass that way, ne­ver fail pay­ing their re­spects to the Holy Mountain. It is a famo us Pilgrimage. and have contrived a small Chapel, which is dedicated to the Trinity. The Curate of the Chapel took the pains to find out a Hammer to break off some pieces of the Rock, to bestow on us as Relicks; but we told him we were already troubled with too much Baggage; and the poor Man was highly offended at our refusal.

Returning from thence, we visited the Cathedral, where they showed us, amongst other things, a pretended Pillar of the Temple of Salomon. There are four of the like at the great Altar of the Cha­pel of St. Mark at Venice. P. Rosetto writes, that this Vessel was found at Mola. It is supported by four Lions, made of the same pieces of Mar­ble. The ancient Vessel of White Marble, which serves for a Font, in the Baptistery of this Church, is a curious Piece of Work, and most en­tirely preserved: It is made in the form of a Bell, and is four Foot high, or thereabouts. The Basso relievo's, with which it is adorned, are admir'd by skill­full Men. The little Bacchus fresh come out of the Thigh of Jupiter, is by Mer­cury put into the Hands of Ino; and all [Page 280] round the Vessel are represented Satyrs and Bacchanals. There is a Faun which plays on two Pipes at once. I have seen a Shepherd of Tirol do the same.They have ob­served the same thing of Herodotus of Megara. The Workman hath put his Name on the Vessel, [...].

Near the Garden of the Franciscans Zoc­colanti, there is a Bush of Thorns, which are most without Pricks, which, they say, hath grown so ever since the Seraphic St. Francis rolled himself there, to extin­guish his Concupiscence. Towards the Place named Della Foglia, they also show us the place whence heUscissero el capo dell' acqua, saith Rosetto, and they heard him. preached to the Fishes.

Going up by the little Door of the Bi­shop's Palace, over-against the Altar of the Holy Sacrament, there is a Marble Sta­tue of an old Man, who sets his Feet on a little Dog; under the Dog is a Death's Head; a Serpent, whose Tail is placed on the Dog, wraps it self about the Legs of the old Man, rests on his Head, and hath an Eagle on his. There are an hundred different Opinions concerning this Piece. That which is most generally received is, That the old Man represents Aesculapius, with his Serpent: That the Dog signifies the Vigilance and Attention required in Physicians; and that the Eagle repre­sents the Empire of GOD over Men, perhaps the God of Physick particularly.: And the Death's Head is an Emblem of [Page 281] Humane Nature, sadly subjected to that Deity. The Sculpture is four Palms in height.

When we landed at Cajeta, the Officers of the Garrison made strict inquisition whether there were any Frenchmen a­mongst us; and after they had assured themselves that we were all English, they told us, that since the quarrel of France with the Pope, they were always appre­hensive of those Men-devouring French. This puts me in mind of what hapned two Years since, at our coming to Mons, another Spanish City. There was a Re­port that an Army of French was coming, under pretence of guarding the Post of Namur, to make an irruption into the King of Spain's Territories: Upon this, the People of Mons opened their Sluces, drowned all the Meadows, and spoiled all the Ways: The French knew nothing of all this; the poor Travellers were the only sufferers: We were fain to undergo a Thousand Fatigues, to get out of their drowned Ways.

Departing from Mola, we coasted the Sea for some Hours, always following the Ap­pian Way, for eight Miles together, to the Ruines of the City of Minturna. MINTURNA. We saw in our Passage the Remains of an Amphithea­tre,Marius pursued by Sylla, hid himself among the Reeds, in the Marish which is between the Sea and Minturna. A Soldier who was sent to kill him, not daring to undertake it, Marius put himself into a Bark, which cast him on A­frick, where he stayed till he was recall'd. and a considerable length of an Aque­duct, [Page 282] which came from the little City of Tajetto, two Miles farther, on the Left-hand. The River which was formerly known by the Name of Liris, and which at present is called Garigliano, washes the Walls of Minturna. We passed this River in a Ferry-Boat, and took a new way over the Meadows, leaving and quitting altogether the old and troublesome Pave­ment, which loseth it-self in those places, which are no more frequented. We came the same Day to the Village of St. Agatha, and there we lay.

CAPUA.From St. Agatha to Capua is sixteen Miles. The Country is level enough, particularly when we come near to Capua, and the Fields are fair and fruitful. Leaving St. Agatha, they showed us some Hills a few Miles to the Left, where grew, as they say, the famous Falernian Wines. The Volturnus, which is the principal River of the Kingdom of Naples, though of but in­different bigness, washes the Ramparts of Capua, on that side we entred into it. This City is small and inconsiderable in all respects. There you may see seve­ral Inscriptions,Ipsa caput urbium, quon­dam inter tres maximas, Romam, Car­thaginemque numerata. L. Florus. Omnium feli­cissima Ci­vitas. Polyb. and many Marble Stones, which were brought thither from the anci­ent Capua, and we turned aside to visit some Ruines of that. It is two Miles from the other near the Mountains to the Eastward. And the Town which is called St. Mary's, is almost wholly built of the deformed Ruines of that delicious and proud City. We saw there many little Temples, an [Page 283] old Castle, the Remains of two Amphi­theatres, one of the Gates of the City, with a great number of broken Pillars, and other Fragments of Architecture.

The Country People brought us many Me­dals, which we took without looking on them, because we were in haste, and they asked but little for them: But we found afterward nothing rare amongst them. They dig them often up here, and in di­vers other places which they shewed us, as well as towards Mola. But being informed of the search that is made for such things, they are not so simple to give all to the first Comer, at the same price; they know the curious Persons of the neighbouring Cities, from whom they re­ceive Rewards, when they bring them Pie­ces, which are not common: So that these Peasants bring nothing to Travel­lers but what is ordinary, or the Refuse of others.

From Capua to Naples is sixteen Miles; and this Campaign, as you know, makes a part of the Provence called Terra di La­voro. It is really an admirable Soil. Di­ves arat Capua — said Virgil. They pre­tend it is the most fruitful Soil in the World; and they also called it Campagna Stellata, to signifie, that it is highly favoured with [Page 284] the benign influences of the Stars, and let you know that the Air which they breath hath a constant sweetness. We pas­sed through the little City of Aversa, AVERSA. which was, as they tell you,Of the Ru­ines of Atella. built by the Normans, when they drove out the Saracens and the Greeks, and seized on the Kingdom of Naples.

NAPLES, called the Gentile.I will not spend much time in giving you the Etymology of Naples. It was destroyed, saith the History, and afterwards re-built by the Cumani, who called it [...], to distinguish it from the Re­mains of the high City; which they na­med, or became so at the same time, [...]; you know both of them for­merly bore the Name of Parthenope, be­cause, some say, that Ulysses and his Com­panions, having escaped the inchanting Songs of the Mermaid Parthenope, that Sea-Nymph in despair, threw her self down headlong,The Council of Lateran, under Innocent III. in the Year 1215, took away the Greek Bishop, who was Col­league to the Latin Bishop. and was enterred at Palaeopolis. Others pretend that one Parthenope, Daugh­ter of Eumelus King of Thessaly, and Grand-daughter of Admetus and Alcesta, brought a Colony thither from her Father's Estates, and gave her own Name of Parthenope to this City, which had then another Appel­lation, now unknown. Let it be as it will, it appears by these Greek Names, that Naples was built by the Grecians. It is very large, and well peopled, but I can­not tell you exactly the Number of its Inhabitants, nor any thing satisfactory of its Circuit, the Figure of it being most [Page 285] irregular. The Curious, who have walk­ed round the Walls, reckon that it is nine Miles in compass, and that it is eighteen if you include its seven Suburbs. Altho' it hath endured terrible Assaults,One of their Poets plea­santly said, That Naples seems to have fallen from Heaven. it is still one of the most noble, and perhaps finest Cities in the World. It is paved through­out with great square Stones, cut to a Pattern. The Streets are strait, and most of them broad. The Houses are high, with flat Roofs, and uniform Building. London, Paris, Rome, Venice, and a great number of other Cities, have, in truth, fine No­blemens Houses; but these Houses are mixed with great a number of ordinary ones, whereas Naples is generally all very fair. The Sea makes a little Bay, which washes it to the South. To the North it hath rich Hills, whereby you rise insensi­bly into Campagna Felice. Eastward is a Plain which leads to Vesuvius; and in the West is the high Town, where are the Chartreux, and the Castle of St. Erasmus. The Prospect which we have of this Ascent is very charming: I will give you an Ac­count of it in the sequel.

Besides, that the Houses of Naples are commonly great, and well built, there is a considerable number which deserve the Name of Palaces. For Example: Those of the Dukes of Matalone, Gravina, Airo­la, and de la Tour; of the Princes of St. A­gatha, Mont-milet, Botera, and Cellamara. The Palace of the Vice-Roy is in a great Place; the Front is regular, and a­dorn'd [Page 286] with three Orders of Architecture. It is near four hundred Feet in length, of English Measure, and is the Work of the famous Montana. The three Ca­stles which defend Naples; the Academy, which they call Studii Nuovi; the Acade­my for riding the Great Horse; the Con­vents; the Hospitals; the Arsenal, and the Magazines for the Gallies, are so ma­ny Edifices of very great Note. There are many Fountains, which contribute as well to the great Conveniency, as Embellish­ment of the City: And three of these Fountains are of an incomparable gran­deur and beauty. But that which seem­ed to us most extraordinary at Naples was the Number and Magnificence of the Churches. It may be justly said, that in this respect it surpasses Imagination. If one would take a view of the fine Pie­ces of Architecture, the Churches must be visited, you must behold the Frontispiece, the Portals, the Chapels, the Altars, and the Tombs. If you would look upon rare Pictures, Sculptures, and the rarety of Vessels of Gold and Silver, you need but go to the Churches; the Arches, the Wainscots, the Walls are all covered with pieces of precious Marble, most artificially laid together, or with Compartiments of Basso Relievo, or of Joyners-work gilded, and enriched with the Works of the most famous Painters. There is nothing to be seen but Jasper, Porphyrie, Mosaick of all fashions, and the Quintescence of Art. [Page 287] I visited five and twenty, or thirty of these stately Edifices, where one still finds him self surprized afresh. If it were possible to unite eight or ten together, and make a regular Composition out of 'em all, I believe it would be the most magnificent Structure in the World.

I dare not venture on an exact Descri­ption of so many Particulars, yet cannot forbear to mention at least some of these Churches, which we found most remark­able, since perhaps it may be of use to you hereafter. The Church of the Jesuits is an admirable Piece: The Dome was paint­ed by the Chevalier Lanfranc; and which way soever you turn in this stately Tem­ple, all parts are enriched with most cost­ly Ornaments, from the Pavement to the Roof. It is the same in St. Mary's of the Annonciata, which we may justly say, is of most splendid beauty.The Religious may purchase from right to left, all the neighbouring Houses, til they come to be bounded by some Street; so that there being no Street without a Con­vent, they may purchase the whole City. G. Burnet. There you may see also that famous Hospital, whose Revenue amounts to above two hundred thousand Ducats of Gold. All is very rich and sur­prizing; St. Philip of Neri, Santa Maria la Nuovo, St. Severin's, St. Paul's, St. Domi­nick's, the Church and Monastery of Mount Olivet; at the Church of the Holy Apostles, St. John Carbonare, the Cathedral, the lit­tle Hospital, and St. Mary's of Health. I omit above three hundred others to a­void a tedious prolixity: Nor will I take notice of their Treasures and Vestries, which are replenished with prodigious Ri­ches. Two of the Theatines having led [Page 288] us into their Church of the Holy Apostles, those good Fathers declared to us by the manner of their Discourse, the poor condition of their Order, who have, say they, more reason than any others to complain: For if the Mendicants, for Exam­ple, have no proper Goods, yet, at least, they have liberty to beg: Whereas, the poor and unhappy Theatines live only on God's Providence, possessing nothing, and not da­ring to ask any thing. Arguing after this manner, after they had made us observe the various Magnificencies of their Church, they brought us into the Vestry; where we found fourteen great Cupboards, with double Doors, all filled with Vessels of Gold and Silver, and other precious Or­naments: A Treasure of poor People, sufficient to satisfie the most inordinate Ambition.

The great Convent of the Chartreux at St. Martin's, is extraordinary full of rare and magnificent things: The Monks who conducted us thither, affirmed to us, that under one Priorate, there were laid out amongst them five hundred thousand Du­cats in Silver Plate, Pictures, and Scul­ptures only. Their Church is none of the greatest; but every part of it deserves Admiration: Nothing can be added either to the value of the Matter, or excellence of the Workmanship; all is compleat, and exquisitely beautiful. The Nativity of Christ, by Guido, is an excellent Piece: The four Pictures of the last Supper, [Page 289] which are to be seen in the same place, were done by Espagnolet, Ann. Carache, Paul Veronese, and Cavalier Massimno. — — has thought fit to represent Jesus Christ standing, giving the Sacrament to his Apostles, and putting the Bread into their Mouths, they being on their Knees. There are a great many other Pieces highly valued, too many to be here re­cited.

The Cloyster is one hundred Paces square: All the Pavement is of Marble, inlaid, representing Boughs, and other Or­naments of the like nature; and the four Galleries are supported by sixty Pillars each, of one entire piece, of fine White Marble of Carrara. The Monks are pleasantly lodged; every one hath his Chamber, his Closet, his Library, and his little Garden. The Prior's Apartment might well befit a Prince: There, amongst other things, you may see the famous Crucifix of Michael Ange­lo, drawn, as is said, from Nature to the Life, by a certain Peasant, whom that Painter crucified for that purpose: This smells like a Fable; but here it goes current for a great Truth. This Picture is of Wood, and is not above half a Foot high. I observed that the Crucifix holds his Head exactly streight, which agrees not very well with the Posture of a Man expiring on a Cross. They have also a Saint Laurence by Titian, and some Designs of Ruben's and Albert Durer, which they prize very highly.

[Page 290]The various Prospects which are disco­vered from this Ascent, strike the Behol­der with Admiration. You behold the Sea, and many Islands, amongst which is that of Capreae, the famous Seraglio of Ty­berius. From thence you may distinctly view the Greatness, and Ground-Plot of Naples, with itsThe Castle of the Egg, the new Castle, and the Castle of St. Elmo. In the Castle of the Egg, there is a Brass Can­non, called the Magdalen, which carries a Ball of six-score Pound weight; and weighs twenty one thousand Pounds. Bulif. Castles, Haven, Mole, and Lanthorn. It is a pleasure to look on the Gardens which surround it, and the Fruitful Hills which ascend to Campania the Happy. If you cast your Eyes on the other side, along the Sea-shore, the small Bays or Inlets which reciprocally mix with the little Capes, washed by that peaceful Sea, and the pretty Villages, with which the Coast is strewed, render a per­fectly agreeable Object. A little farther the Air is thickned by the horrible Smoak of Vesuvius, and you may take a full view of this terrible Mountain.

I shall not spend much time in descri­bing either the Relicks, Statues, or mira­culous Images, as they call 'em: But it is reasonable you should have some Account of 'em, according to my wonted Method, of saying somewhat of every thing. They keep at St. Louis of the Palace, a reasona­ble quantity of the Virgin's Milk, which becomes liquid on all our Lady's Festivals. At St. John Carbonnara, the Blood of St. Ja­nuarius boils up, when any one comes near the Shrine in which his Body is kept; and the Blood of St. John Baptist, which is at St. Maria Donna Romita, doth the same [Page 291] thing whilst they say the Mass for the beheading of that Saint. I will say no­thing of the Pieces of the true Cross, the Nails, the Branches of the Crown of Thorns, the Images of the Virgin, made by St. Luke, nor an infinity of such-like Rarities, whose Number would tire you. At St. Dominick the Greater, you may see the Crucifix, which said one Day to St. Thomas Aquinas, Thou hast written well of me, Thomas; What Reward wilt thou have? To which St. Thomas answered, None but thy self. The Legend adds, That this Holy Man being then in a Rapture, the fervour of his Zeal lifted him three Foot from the Earth, and so sustained him. They say, another Crucifix, which is in the Church of the Benedictines, had twice a long con­versation with his Vicegerent, Pope Pius V. That of St. Mary of the Carmelites, bowed his Head at the sight of a Cannon-Bullet which was shot at him; this was in the Year 1439, when D. Pedro of Arragon, besieged Naples. The Bullet only beat off the Crown of the Crucifix; they shew it every Year on the first Friday in March, and the second Holiday in Christmas. At the Church of St. Agnello, in the Chapel belonging to the Family of the Monaci, another Crucifix which spoke, is to be seen; the Story of which you have in the following Inscription:

Anno Domini, M CCC. in the Reign of King Charles II. this Holy Image of the Cruci­fix, [Page 292] whilst the Comperes wrangled about Money lent, shining with Divine splendor, declared the Truth of the Matter by Speech; which the Per­son guilty, being angry at, denied himself to be the Debtor, and presently struck the Image with a very hard Stone, on the Face, which instant­ly becoming Black and Blue, was a notable Miracle to all; and the Sacrilegious Person after so great a Crime, becoming immoveable, by the Prayers of the Creditor put up to God for him, was brought again to himself, and as long as he lived, did Penance for it.

In the same Church, the Image of St. Mary of Intercession, hath often held long Discourses with the blessed Jane, Mother of St. Agnello, A Crow which [...]uted Tiberi­ [...]s, Drusus, [...] Germani­ [...]us Caesars, was killed by a certain Taylor, and was order­ed to be buried with a solemn funeral [...]o [...]p Plin. 10. c. 44. and with St. Agnello himself. Furthermore, it is not now a-days only, that such things have hapned. Do you not remember you have read, that amongst the Prodigies which appeared at Rome, sometime before the Triumvirate, many Statues of the Gods sweat Blood and Wa­ter, and that there was an Oxe which spoke? without doubt they were not less astonished under the Empire of Caligula, when the Statue of Jupiter, which was at Olympus, burst forth into such loud fits of Laughter, that those who were taking it down to carry it to Rome, fled away affright­ed, and left their Work. You know the Hi­story of the Crow, which prognosticated Misfortune to Domitian, by its [...].

[Page 293]The great Number of Churches which we visited, and the Multitude of Tombs I observed there, gave me opportunity to transcribe many Epitaphs; if you will, to vary our Subject a little, I will commu­nicate to you some part of my Collection: 'Tis true, they are written in a mournful Style, but, in my Opinion, agreeable, be­cause so pathetical.

In the Church of St. John the Evangelist, there are six or seven Epitaphs, made by the famous Poet Johannes Jovianus Pontanus. I fansie you can find nothing more ten­derly, nor more happily expressed: Take Four only:

In the same Church, for King Robert, who was the Founder, and was Sirnamed the Good, and the Wise: ‘Cernite Robertum regem virtute refertum.’

This Panegyrick is a little brief, for a Prince of such Wisdom and Knowledge, and so great a Captain: But the longest Elogies are not always the best: There are two others of the same Style, at St. Pie­tro d' Ara.

D. O. M. Fabritio Francipano, oui nec vi­venti Romani virtus, nec morienti vera pietas defuit. Haeredd. ex testa. B. M. &c.

At St. Domin. Maj. for a Lord of the House of Caraffa:

In the same Church, for a Person who is not named: ‘Terra tegit terram.’

[Page 297]In the same Church, for the Cardinal d' Ariano, of the Family of Caraffa:

In the Vestry of the same Church, are many Tombs of the Kings and Queens of Naples. They have there represented Death, under whose Effigies these Words are written:

For King Ferdinand II.

For Isabel of Arragon, Daughter of Al­phonsus I. and Wife of John Galeas, Duke of Milan;

In the same place, for the Marquess of Pescara, by Ariosto:

For John Alefelt, a Danish Gentleman, who died at Naples, in his Travels: His Sepulchre is at Mount Olivet:

[Page 299]In the same Church:

Constantia Davila, & Beatrix Picolominea fi­lia, redditis quae sunt Coeli Coelo, & quae sunt Terrae Terrae, ut semper uno vixere animo, sic u­no condi tumulo voluere. O beatam & mutui amoris constantiam!

I forgot the Epitaph of Joan the First, Queen of Jerusalem, and both the Sicilies. Charles de Duras, whom she had first adopt­ed, and who afterwards rebelled against her, caused her to be strangled in Prison, accusing her that she had strangled Andrew of Hungary, her first Husband; concern­ing which Historians vary. The Intrigues of a Landress and a Cordelier, were the cause of all her Misfortunes. The Tomb of Andrew is in the Cathedral. This is the Epitaph of Queen Joan:

She was the Daughter of Charles of Sicily, Duke of Calabria. I remember I have read somewhere, of a certain Fortune-tel­ler, who looking in her Hand, told her, when she was very young, Maritaberis cum ALIO; and that it was observed afterwards, that the Word ALIO, was composed of the first Letters of her four Husbands [Page 300] Names,Andrew of Hungary; Louis, Prince of Tarentum; James, Prince of Majorca; and Otho of Brunswick. Andrew, Louys, James, and Otho.

At St. Mary of the Concord, for a King of Fez, who embraced the Roman Religion, and died one Hundred Years old.

D. O. M. B. M. V.

Gaspar ex serenissima Benemerina familia, vi­gesimus secundus in Africa Rex, dum contra Ty­rannos à Catholico Rege arma rogat auxiliaria, liber effectus a Tyrannide Machometi, cujus im­piam cum lacte hauserat legem, in Ca­tholicam adscribitur; Numidiam proinde exosus, pro Philippo III. Hispaniarum Monarcha, pro Rodulpho Caesare quibus carus, preclarè in hae­reticos apud Belgas, Pannonosque saevit armatus. Sub Urbano VIII. Eques commendator, Imma­culatae conceptions, Deiparae creatur, & Chri­stianis, Heroicis, Regiis virtutibus ad immor­talitatem anhelans, centenarius hic mortale reliquit, & perpetuum censum cum penso quater in hebdomade, incruentum missae sacrificium ad suam offerendi mentem. Anno Dom. M.DC.XLI.

Pope Innocent IV. died at Naples, in the Year 1254. His Tomb is to be seen at the Cathedral, with two Epitaphs, too long to be here recited: The first is in Leonine Ver­ses, and hath no great Spirit in it: The other is in Prose, and therein it is obser­ved, that this Pope, Purpureo primos pileo [Page 301] Cardinales exornavit; First adorned the Car­dinals with a purple Cap: He thought fit to make them this Compliment, the more to engage their Friendship, during his Broils with Fr. Barbarossa. About fifty Years af­ter, Boniface VIII. bestowed the Purple Robe on them. Paul II. the Red Cap, and some other marks of distinction: And Ur­ban VIII. the quality of honour to be sty­led, Their Eminencies. I observed in the same Church, on the Tombs of many Ca­nons, that they have not had the Titles of Cardinals for above two hundred Years. Raymundus Barrilius, Neapo. Presbyter, Cano­nicus Cardinalis, &c. Do. Petrus Nicolaus de Marchesiis Neap. Sacerdos, almae Ecclesiae Ca­nonicus, Diaconus, Cardinalis, &c. anno 1472. You know that this formerly signified, Presbyter Cardinalis, or Presbyter Principalis. There is some appearance that the Canons of this Church had the privilege to make use of this Term, according to old Cu­stom, for a considerable time after it was altered.

In the Chapel of the Family Alesia, at St. Agnello:

[Page 302]It is so rare a thing for a Bishop to pre­fer his Condition to that of a Cardinal, that I must not forget the following Epi­taph.

Sigismundo Pappacudae Franc. F. Tropejensium Praesuli; viro opt. & Jurisconsulto, qui cum in coetum Cardinalium fuisset à Clemente VII. ad­scitus, maluit in Patriâ Episcopus vivere. Hae­redes pos. Vixit. An. 80. M.VI.D.X. obiit 1536.

Doth not this Man put you in mind of John Angelico de Fiesola, that good Brother Dominican, who was skilful in painting, and chose rather to work in his Cell, than to be promoted to the Arcbishoprick of Florence? The Church which hath the Tomb of Sigis­mond, is called St. John of Pappacodi's, because it was built by one of his Ancestors. They tell us, That that Gentleman, being buri­ed for dead after a Fit of the Apoplexy, one of his Kindred, who was in the Country, hearing of it, came Post immediately, and caused the Tomb to be opened. The Body was found dead; but it appeared that he had shifted his Posture.

At S. Severin of the Benedictus, for J. Bap­tist. Cicaro.

For Andrew Banifacia, a young Infant in the same Place. The Verses were made by Sannazarius.

Both Tombs are Magnificent. The Cha­pel that belongs to the Family of Sanseveri­no in the same Church, is an exquisitely beau­tiful Structure. There you may see the Tombs of the Three young Lords, Brothers, who were poisoned by their Uncle, and all three died in the same Hour. There is some­thing so exquisitely feeling in this, that I cannot forbear to send you their Epi­taphs, together with that of the Countess their Mother.

1. Hic ossa quiescunt Jacobi Sanseverini, Co­mitis Saponariae, veneno misere ob avaritiam ne­cati, cum duobus miseris Fratribus eodem fato, ea­dem hora commorientibus.

2. Jacet hic Sigismundus Sanseverinus, vene­no impiè absumptus, qui eodem fato, eodem tem­pore, pereuntes Germanos fratres nec alloqui nec cernere potuit.

3. Hic Situs est Ascanius Sanseverinus, cui obeunti eodem veneno, iniquè at (que) impiè, commori­rientes fratres nec alloqui nec videre quidem li­cuit.

4. Hospes, miserrimae miserrimam defleas or­bitatem. En Hippolita Montia, post natas foe­minas infelicissima, quae Ugo Sanseverino conjugi, [Page 304] tres maximae expectationis filios peperi: qui venena­tis poculis (vicit in familia, pro Scelus! pietatem cupiditas, timorem audacia, & rationem amentia) unà in miserorum complexibus parentum, misera­biliter illicò expirarunt. Vir; aegritudine sensim obrepente, paucis post annis in his etiam manibus expiravit. Ego tot superstes funeribus, cujus re­quies in tenebris, solamen in lachrymis, & cura omnis in morte collocatur. Quos vides separatim tumulos ob aeterni doloris argumentum, & in memoriam illorum sempiternam. Anno M.D.XLVII.

Here is an instance of another afflicted Mother in the Chapel of the Family of Cop­pola, in the Church of St. Aug.

O Fata prepostera! ô miserrimam pietatem! Clarix Rynalda Tiberii Coppulae Jures-Consi & ca­merae Regiae Praesidis Uxor amantissima, sepultis turbato Ordine VII. dulcissimis infantibus filiis, post habito paterno tumulo, simul cum iis sepeliri voluit. Et materni Amoris officium, quod vi­ventibus maluisset, saltem in communi sede cineri­bus paranda, exiguum doloris ingentis solatium prae­staret, M.D.LXXXXI.

Over-against the great Church of the Carmelites, in a place of the People, there is a kind of Chapel, which was built by or­der of Charles I. King of Naples, in the same place where that Prince caused the Head of the unfortunateHe was not sent to the Holy Land, because he was excom­municated. Conradin to be cut off,And five or six Lords more. and at the same time his Cousin Frederick's, Marquiss of Baden, and Duke of Austria. This Tragedy is painted in Fresco, on the Walls within the Chapel, They [Page 305] have there also the Pillar of Porphyrie, which was erected in the middle; and round about this Distich is written;

The Body was presently put into the lit­tle Chapel, and afterwards removed into the Church of the Carmelites.

They shew'd us in the Convent of the Car­melites, the place where the famous Rebel Thomas Aniello was killed,Vulgarly called Massaniello. eighteen Days af­ter the Establishment of his Common­wealth. I have a piece of the Money that was coined at Naples in the time of those Disorders, with this Inscription, S. P. Q. N. Senatus Pop. Que Neap. A just Comparison might be made between Massaniello and Cromwell: there is only this difference, that Cromwell was a Gentleman, and Massaniello but a Fisherman.

Our Guide told us, as we passed before the Church of St. Mary Major, That the Devil appeared formerly in the shape of a Hog, in the place where that Church was since built; whicy so affrighted, and drove away the Inhabitants of Naples, that the Ci­ty almost became desolate: But that the Vir­gin answering the Vows of Pomponius, then Bishop of Naples, ordered him to build a Church for her, in the place where they most frequently saw the infernal Hog; which being done, it never appeared after­wards. They add, That in memorial of [Page 306] this Event, the Bishop caused a Hog of Brass to be made which is now kept in a part of the said Church.

You have not here all I intend to tell you concerning Naples. But because we now write to London, I thought fit to join this Letter to the Pacquet. Do me the Honour to love me still, and believe that I am,

LETTER XXII.

THE City of Naples hath been so ma­ny times ransacked, and hath gone through the Hands of so many Masters, that the greatest part of its Antiquities have been buried in their own Ruins. The Front of St. Paul Major is the Frontispiece of the old Temple of Apollo, was afterwards dedicated to Castor and Pollux, by one Tiberius Julius Tarsus, a Freed-Man of Augustus: His Name is distinctly to be read on one of the Frieses of this Frontispiece, [...]. The Portico is supported by eight channelled Pillars, of the Corinthian Order; and on the Pediment are some Basso Relie­vo's, which represent the Deities.

[Page 307]They say that the Columns of St. Restituta were taken from a Temple of Neptune. There also remain some Ruins of an Amphitheatre. We often took notice, as we passed, of an ancient Statue of the Nile, supported by a Crocodile. The House of D. Diomodes Ca­raffa is exceedingly full of Sculptures and an­cient Inscriptions. You may see in the Court, the Head, and all the Crest of a Horse of Brass, which had no Bridle, and which was sometimes in one of the Places of Naples, as an Emblem of the Liberty of that City, when it was governed as a Com­monwealth. But King Conrad caused a Bit to be put on this Horse, as now appears, and wrote, as they say, these two Verses, on the Pedestal which supported it.

There are also a great many old Ruins found on the Hill; where, as the Antiquaries say, was [...], towards St. Cosmus and St. Damian. And besides that, several curious Persons, as amongst others, M. Richetti hath pick'd up divers Antiquities, and particular­ly made Collections of Medals; from some whereof, great Light hath been drawn for the History of Naples. I refer the speaking of the Catacombs to another time.

You know with what exactness and suc­cess Pope Sixtus V. extirpated the Banditti out of Rome, and all the Ecclesiastical State. But you also know that the other Princes of I­taly [Page 308] had not the same good Fortune, though all with common consent undertook the Work. These Bands of Thieves were more numerous than ever in the Kingdom of Na­ples; and some Years ago, to travel securely, they were forced to go in Caravans. At pre­sent there is nothing to be fear'd, the Mar­quiss del Carpio, last Vice-Roy of Naples, hath at last freed that Country from the Robberies and Murders of that wicked Gang: Many of them have been put to the Sword, and others executed. There is a great number of them yet in Prison; we saw five hundred of them in the Arsenal, who sur­rendred themselves some Months since, on condition their Lives should be saved, and they not sent to the Galleys.

Futhermore, if they have exterminated all the Banditti by Profession, there are still remaining a great number of others who are little better. To speak in general, the Peo­ple of Naples are a very wicked People; the Prisons swarm with Malefactors; and they affirmed to us, that there are at present, in two Prisons only, about four thousand who de­serve death. They did not hit amiss, who said, That Naples is a Paradise inhabited with Devils.

The City is extreamly fine, as I have al­ready told you; but there are many things which are not suitable to its Beauty, and which cloud the pleasant Countenance it would otherwise have. First, you can see no Women in it; it hath this fault in com­mon, with all the other Cities of Italy. [Page 309] You must not think I am become too much a Gallant, when I say, this is to hide ri­diculously the fairest half of the World. Secondly, the Habits and Equipages of Na­ples are of black and dark Colours, which are apt to inspire Melancholy. You are forbidden to wear Gold or Silver, or Silk upon Silk. The greatest Lord can have but twoStaffieri. Footmen: And the greatest part of the Coaches being drawn slowly by Mules, are both uneasie and unpleasant. The Spa­nish Dress is generally used. The Vice-Roy is seldom seen; and his Court looks dull and melancholy like the rest. The Trade of Naples is much decayed: They make there a great deal of Soap, Snuff of Tabacco, Stockings, Wastcoats, and other worsted Commodities.

We yesterday made a Voyage to Vesuvius; Mount Vesuvi­us. See Letter XXXIII. the Journey was somewhat troublesome, and the sight of it dreadful. I will endeavour to give a more distinct account of it than you can receive from the Descriptions al­ready made.

They reckon it eight Miles from Naples to the top of Vesuvius. During the first four Miles, we past through many good Villages, following the Sea-Coast: These places are well till'd, and seem to have re­ceived no damages from the Eruptions of the Mountain, notwithstanding they have happen'd so frequently. There are only from place to place great Stones, which have been rolled thither.

[Page 310]Going out of this last Village, called Re­sina, we turn'd to the Left, and began to ascend; and you may still travel on Horse-back two large Miles, or two Miles and an half further, amongst loose Stones, and heaps of baked Earth, which the Vomitings of the Mountain have spread all about. The more you advance, the more you find the Soil cracked, dry, burned, and covered with several sorts of calcined Stones, which are so many Monuments of those furious Eruptions. You may also observe in seve­ral places, the Chanels of the Torrents of Sulphur and Bitumen, which have run down from the Mountain. In fine, the Ascent be­comes so rough and difficult, that you must be forced to go on Foot; you may believe there are neither Taverns, nor other Houses, nor Boys to hold the Horses.

I assure you there is a great deal of Pains and Trouble, which must be endured be­fore you can mount to this prodigious Fur­nace. You are for the most part plunged amongst the Ashes, if one may properly give that the name of Ashes, which rather resembles Brick-dust. Sometimes you fall back instead of advancing, because the Ashes give way under your Feet; and at last, after divers little restings, you come to the brim of the ancient Gulf; I say the ancient Gulf, because you will per­ceive by and by that things have some time since suffered great Alterations.

This first height on which we now are, makes a Circle round the Gulf: The top [Page 311] of the Mountain having been worn, you may easily conceive what kind of Horns and rugged Elevations have been made in the circuit of its height. As near as we could guess, this vast melting Pot hath near a Mile Diameter; you may go down into it several ways, about an hundred Paces be­low the steep Circle of the brim of the Mountain, which is all the depth of this old Mouth.

By an extraordinary Eruption, this vast Abyss was almost quite fill'd, in one of its last breakings out, with a mixture of Sulphur, of Bitumen, of Minerals, of Al­lom, of Nitre, of Salt-petre, and of Earth melted, or vitrified; all these matters gi­ving over boiling, have form'd a kind of thick Crust, or harden'd Scum, which made a level in the Gulf, an Hundred Paces be­low its Brims. A furious shaking of the Mountain did afterward break this Crust, or thickness of harden'd Matter, and tum­bled the pieces one upon another, as when after you have broken the Ice of a Pond, a sudden Frost presently cements all the pieces together. This rugged Superficies is every where equally uneven; and there are here and there burning Funnels; from whence the Fumes continually exhale: In some places you feel the Heat through your Shooes, only walking over it.

This is not all: Just in the middle of this Extent of the Mountain, which, you must know, is almost round; a furious E­ruption hath forced its Passage, and form'd [Page 112] a new Mountain. This Mountain is also round, and is about a quarter of a Mile in height. I could not count the Paces, be­cause it was impossible to make them e­qual, by reason the Ashes hinder it; which, as I have already told you, make one sometimes slide back.

After we had traversed that rough space, which is like a low Trench, about Three hundred Paces broad between the Bounds of the greater and lesser Mountains, as I have already described them. You mount the last with as much pains as you did the first. It is all full of smoaking Chinks. In many places you see Sulphur almost pure, with a kind of Sal Armoniack, which is almost of a Citron Colour. In others, there is a reddish and porous Matter, like the Scum of Iron, which comes from Smiths Forges: There are pieces of all Colours, Fashions, and Weights: All this having been baked and re-baked by so vehement a Fire, and this Composition of so many different Matters, having been melted and incorporated together, you may easily i­magine what it is.

The top of the little Mountain hath its opening as well as the great one, which at present is the Throat of this vast Abyss; we guessed it to be about an hundred Pa­ces in breadth. There issues out a flood of Smoak, which almost fills its Capacity; but there come sometimes Gusts of Wind from above, which drive away this Smoak, sometimes one way, and sometimes another, [Page 313] which permitted us to view clearly the height of the Mouth, though at several times.

The Brink is perpendicular within, ex­cept in one place, where it is sloping enough to descend into it. Our Guide going first down, three or fourscore Paces before, we follow'd him; which (I must tell you by the bye) was unnecessarily done, and which I would not advise any body to do. We were then on the Brink of this dreadful Precipice, and we rolled down many Stones, or hard Masses, which we loosened about us: Sometimes they stopped at the first or second falling; at other times they made a long continuation of boundings with a great noise. It had been to no purpose to have computed the time these Stones took up in their leaps or descents, because there is no bottom can be guessed at where they must stop at last; the noise ceasing some­times, only in respect of those who heard it, the distance alone rendring it insensible.

We could not perceive that what we tumbled into this Gulf did any way en­crease its Smoak. It is true, greater Mas­ses were necessary for such an Experiment; and yet it would have been very uncertain whether they would have produc'd any ef­fect; there being nothing to oblige us to be­lieve that there is a Lake of of boiling mat­ters, which perpendicularly answers to the Mouth of the Mountain.

Some bring with them Gunpowder, and make Mines, to have the pleasure to blow [Page 314] up great Rocks: But to speak freely, I think it a great folly to carry their Curiosity so far, in so dangerous a place; and I think it wisely done not to stay there too long. The sudden disgorging of the Flames, is not what is to be most feared: But the quaking of the Mountain always pre­cedes the great Claps, and always comes very suddenly. Many have been surpri­zed there; and you know how poor Pli­ny was surprized by it, though he was at a considerable distance.

The following Inscription is to be seen about three Miles from Naples, in a Vil­lage on the Way to the Mountain.

Posteri, posteri, vestra res agitur. Dies fa­cem praefert Diei; nudius perendino. Advor­tite vicies ab satu solis, ni fabulatur historia, arsit Vesuvius immani semper clade haesitanti­um: Ne posthac incertos occupet, moneo. Ute­rum gerit mons hic bitumine, alumine, ferro, auro, argento, nitro, aquarum fontibus gravem. Serius ocius ignescet, pelago (que) influente pariet; sed ante parturit, concutitur, concutit (que) solum: fumigat, coruscat, flammigerat, quatit aerem, horrendum immugit, boat, tonat, arcet finibus accolas. Emigra dum licet. Jamjam eniti­tur, crumpit, mixtum igne lacum evomit, prae­cipiti ruit ille lapsu, seram (que) fugam praevertit. Si corripit, actum est, periisti. Anno salutis 1631, &c. — Tu si sapis, audi clamantem lapidem, sperne larem, sperne sarcinulas; mo­ra nulla, fuge.

Every body knows what Baronius, and many other Authors have reported, of [Page 315] the burnings of this Mountain, whose Roarings have been heard to Rome, and and its Lightnings even to Egypt; the thickness of whose Smoak hath, as it were, ecclipsed the Sun, and made dark Nights at Noon-Day; whose Streams of Brimstone have run into the Sea, so that the very Sea hath swelled and boiled with heat. But without having recourse to old Stories, we need but ask the present In­habitants of Naples, in the Year 1682, from the fifteenth of August, to the twen­ty seventh of the same Month, in the Year 1685, at the end of Semptember, and the last Year in the Month of April: They have been Witnesses of the same Tragedies.

Though I might mix my small Philosophy with that of the learned, who have writ­ten on this Subject, yet would I not un­dertake it for the present: My Design is only to represent the Matter of Fact to you as it is.

I find my self in a manner overladen with the number of Curiosities which we saw about Puzzoli; the little time we had to view them axactly would not suffer me to take particular Notice of them all. I know these things have been many times described; but I am well as­sured that you never read in any Rela­tion, such a Description of Vesuvius, as that which I have now made you. I am also persuaded that you will find some­thing new, in what I have to say of [Page 316] the Journey we lately made. Going out of the Suburbs of Naples, in the way to Puzzoli, you meet with the Hill, which bears the Name of Pausilypus, Pausilypus. [...], say some Etymologists.

In effect, this delicious Hill hath a charm­ing Situation: It is well cultivated, sprink­led with Houses of Pleasure, and abun­dance of excellent Vines.

It is daily found, that Travellers are obliged to march up more difficult A­scents than this; which naturally was on­ly an easie sloping Ascent, and might have been made almost insensible, by fil­ling up the Ways with Earth, supported by Walls: But out of an extravagant Humour, they pierced the Mountain, and through this Hole, made indeed a shorter Way, and of a more extraordinary Stru­cture, but an hundred times more trouble­some than the Ascent of the Hill: This Cave is commonly called,The Grotta of Puzzoli, or Pausilypus. The Grotta of Puzzoli: It is cut in some places through the Rock, and in other places through the Sand. It is near a Mile in length, thirty or forty Foot in height, and about eighteen in breadth; so that two Coaches may easily pass by each other: There is no Light but at the two ends, and a lit­tle [Page 317] Hole in the middle, over an Oratory, which is made in the Rock, by enlarging that part of the Way a little. This Light is very small; and the Mists of fine Dust, which are raised by every Step we make, almost blind the Passengers: You must wrap up your Head, or cover your Face very well with a Handcherchief, if you will avoid breathing Earth instead of Air. You can see so little in this obscure Cave, that when you hear Company coming at a distance, you must cry out to them, To the Right, or, To the Left, that they may take the opposite side, and nor fall foul on each other as you meet.

This is an ancient Work: Seneca makes mention of it, and complained, as well as we, of its Dust and Darkness.P. Razzani; P. Jovius; L. Alberti; F. Lombardo; and many other Authors. 'Tis attributed to one Cocceius, without men­tioning who he was; and some affirm that he was only the Undertaker; others speak of him as of a Prince or Gover­nour of the Country; and they alledge some ancient Annals, wherein it is said,Schraderus hath also writ­ten the same thing. that an hundred thousand Men, finished this Cavern in fifteen Days, by the Orders of Cocceius.

The Lake of Agnano is between two Hills, a little beyond Pausilypus: The Lake of Agnano. This Lake is almost round, and is about a Mile in circuit: The Water is very clear, and hath no ill taste; you may observe it boil every where, without perceiving any heat. Tench and Eels are there in great a­bundance. On the sides of the Lake are [Page 318] two things considerable; the Caves which are called, The Baths of St. German; and The Grotta di Cane. The Baths of St. German. They tell us a long and fabulous Story, which occasioned the Denomination of these Baths, which, in my Opinion, is not worth the relating: You must know, after the third or fourth step which you make to descend into them, you are seized with a heat, which smells of Brimstome, and which puts you into a sudden sweat. Gouty Persons, and those that are troubled with some other Distempers, which are brought thither from all parts, receive, as they say, great benefit from them.

Grotta di Cani: See the Instructions to a Traveller.The Grotta of the Dog, is, as it were, the beginning of a Cave, at the Foot of a Hill: It is nine Foot long or deep, four and an half broad, and five high: It is not an effect of Art. The bottom is no­thing but pure Earth, or Stone covered with Dust, as the middle of a High-way; and the sides have nothing that is polished or wrought, or any way remarkable: I con­sidered the whole very carefully. They cause you to observe some Drops which fall from above, and which, they say, are caused by the condensation of the Steams rais'd from below, of which I will speak presently. The thing deserves a par­ticular examination; but it is more natu­ral to say, that this Water distills from the Mountain, and pierces the top of the Grot­to; you may see the like in all such pla­ces. There arises out of the Earth in this [Page 319] Grotto, a thin and piercing Exhalation, without any Smoak; this seizes on the Breath, and choaks one in a Minute. This Vapour is vulgarly accounted to be dead­ly Poison, though in appearance it is only a Sulphurous Steam. We need not di­spute about Words; we may call all that kills, deadly; and in this sense, there is not a more deadly Poison than a Mus­quet Bullet; we shall therefore give this Vapour what Name you please, and pro­ceed to give you an account of what hap­pen'd, and what we saw.

He who hath the Key of the Baths of St. Germans, hath also that of this Grotto; for I must tell you by the way, that they do not leave it open. This Man enters standing as upright as he can, to the middle of the Grotto. He bows, and kneels down by degrees, holding his Head always upright; he sits down on his Heels, so that his Hands may touch the Earth: Then he holds the Dog by all his four Feet, and lays him down suddenly on his Side on the Ground; in an instant, the poor Creature falls into Convulsions, turns his Eyes, lolls out his Tongue, stretches himself out without crying, and becomes stiff, and he that holds him, throws him for dead out of the Cave: He is present­ly put into t [...]e Lake, which is not a­bove twenty Paces distant, where, in less than a Minute, he reassumes his Spirits, and swims out of the Water; he runs about crying, as it were to express the [Page 320] Joy for his deliverance.Charles VIII. King of France, made tryal with an Ass; and the Vice-Roy D. Pe­dro de Tole­do, with two Slaves, who died. The Sieur Vil­lemont speaks in his Travels, of a Gentle­man, named Tournon, who stooping in the Grotto, to take up a Stone, was seized by the Vapour, and presently car­ried to the Lake, and in a short time recovered his Spirits: But the Author adds, that Tournon died a few Moments after. Samelli. They have made this Experiment upon Men, and all sorts of Animals, with the same effect. Two Foot from the Earth, and even nearer, there is nothing to be feared, for the Spirits grow thin, and are dispersed; but the lower you stoop, the greater is the danger: These Spirits are sub­tle and violent; they sparkle, and break forth impetuously, and in abundance. We cannot light a Match, without per­ceiving some appearances of the like Na­ture.

The Keeper of the Grotto made also a­nother Experiment: He went in with two great lighted Torches, and when he bowed one near the Ground, it not only ceased to flame, but was quite extinguished, without any Fire or Smoak: He lighted it again with the other, and thus put them out, and kindled them by turns.

They tell us of the like Vapours in a Cave at Zoli in Hungary; and Pliny ma­king mention of this, concerning which I am speaking, calls it Spiraculum Puteolanum, and ranks it with those which he calls Scrobes Charoneae. All the adjacent Coun­try is nothing but Brimstone. We passed by Monte Secco, and Solfatara, which are all full of Brimstone, Allom, and Holes under-ground, whence Flame and Smoak [Page 321] exhale, with Noise and Stink, at least as much as we see at present in Vesuvius: They prepare Roch-Allom on theSolfatara. See, at the end of the Second Volume, the Instructions to a Traveller. Solfa­tara; which is a dry, Yellow and White Mountain, all baked and worn by its own Fire. They erect little Cabbins there, in which they labour at that Work, and the sole heat of the Vents makes the Cal­drons boil.

This Hill, the highest part whereof is worn out by the Fire, is in form of a kind of Oval Basin, about twelve hundred and fifty Foot long, and a Mile in breadth. The Fumes which continually issue out, are often smelt at Naples. They assure me, that by them the Marble is blacken'd, and the Ornaments of their Churches sul­lied, as well as the Goods in their Houses. All these Spirits of Sulphur, Allom, Vi­triol, &c. with which the Earth is filled, do also corrupt the Waters. The Capuchins of St. Januarius, who are near to it, have been constrained to lift up their Cisterns into the Air, upon a Pillar, to hinder its having such Communication with them, as might spoil their Water.

The greatest part of the People in and about Naples, no way doubt, but that the fuming Holes of the Solfatara, are, in a literal sense, the real Chimneys of Hell. Capaccio, who hath very nicely examined the whole matter, is of the same Opini­on: He assures us, that the above-mentio­ned Capuchins, from time to time, hear most frightful Howlings, and are often [Page 322] plagued with Hobgoblins (Spesso sono sta­ti travagliati da il Diavoli, e spesso sentono ul­lulati, & terrori di grandissimo spa vento.) He adds many Stories on this Occasion, which he gives out for certain Truths, and says further, that many People believe that this Country is full of Treasures, which would be easily discovered, but for the wicked Spirits, which domineer there, and keep them.

Going down from thence we came to Puzzoli: PUZZOLI. This City, formerly so famous, is now very inconsiderable. I will say nothing of its ancient Names, nor of its Antiquity, or Etymology, which may be found amongst Geographers; Wars, Earth­quakes, Insults of the Sea, and Time which devours every thing, have almost totally destroyed it: But a great quanti­ty of stately Ruines, demonstrate its an­cient Magnificence. Almost adjoining to St. James's Church, you see the Ruines of anThe Arena or Bottom was 172 Feet long, and 88 broad. Capaccio. Amphitheatre, which was built of hewn Stone. Tradition will have it, that St. Januarius, andSosius, Pro­culus, Eutice­tes, Acutius, Festus, Desi­derius, in the Year 299. O­thers say 305. six other Christians, were here given for a Prey to wild Beasts, but the Beasts adored, instead of devouring them. Some time after, these seven Champions had their Heads cut off near the Solfatara, in that place where now a Church is built, and dedicated to St. Januarius. These Words are written on the Altar: Locus decollationis S. Janua­rii, & sociorum ejus.

[Page 323]Close to the Amphitheatre,Those of Puz­zoli give to this Amphi­theatre the Name of Col­liseum, though they have not the same rea­son for it, as that of Rome. Sarnelli hath written, that it remained entire not long ago, and that the Earthquakes at last destroyed it. It was in the midst of the old City. are great Ruines, almost wholly buried, which they believe are the Remainders of a Laby­rinth; but there is more reason to believe it hath been a Fish-Pond, like the Piscina Mirabilis.

The Cathedral is built on the Ruines of a Temple of Jupiter; and of part of the Materials of that Temple, particular­ly the Frontispiece, where it appears by an ancient Inscription, that it was built by Calphurnius Luc. Fil.

Between the City and the Amphithea­tre, you may observe the Ruines of a Tem­ple of Diana. Towards the Dominicans of Jesu Maria, when the Sea is extremely turbulent, it throws on Shore some new Marks of the old Magnificence of the Palaces of Puzzoli; amongst which are many times found divers sorts of fine Stones, Cornelians, Agats, Jaspars, Ame­thysts, &c. The Antiquaries pretend, that about this place, there were formerly a great Number of Jewellers and Goldsmith's Shops. The Sea also brings up other sorts of Stones, upon which, as well as the o­thers, are several sorts of Figures graved; as Cocks, Eagles, Swans, Hares, Serpents, Grashoppers, Ants, Vine-Branches, Grapes, Ears of Corn, Heads of Men, and others, Motto's of Greek and Latin, &c. Some Peo­ple [Page 324] fansie, that Nature hath formed all these Figures on them; and Superstition attributes several Virtues to them.

The Sand which they use for Build­ing at Puzzoli, deserves to be taken no­tice of. Vitruvius commends it extreme­ly; and Pliny also boasts much of it: It enters the Composition of a certain sort of Mortar, which grows as hard as Marble, even in the Sea it-self.

Taking Boat to go to the Lake Lucrin, which is two Miles from Puzzoli, we had time to consider the famous Arches, which, according to the vulgar Opinion, are some Remains of the Bridge which Cali­gula caused to be built from Bayae to Puzzoli: This is the common Opinion; and those Arches are usually call'd Caligula's Bridge, The Bridge of Caligula. by the People of the Country: They ad­mire this Miracle, and treat Strangers with it, as the rarest, and most surprizing thing in the World: And, without doubt, there would be reason for it, considering so bold a piece of Work, as well deserves to be placed amongst the greatest Prodigies. But by misfortune, this pretended Bridge is a meer Chimaera. Suetonius hath so posi­tively related the History of Caligula's Bride, which was a Bridge of Boats, and not of Brick or Stones, that I cannot but wonder, how so many People, have run into such false Notions. The Histo­ry relates the Matter of Fact clearly: Bajaram, In the Life of Caligula, § 19 saith he, medium intervallum, & Puteolanas moles trium millium, & sexcentorum [Page 325] fere passuum ponte conjunxit, contractis undique onerariis navibus, Per hunc pon­tem ultro ci­tro commea­vit, biduo Continenti. & ordine duplici ad ancho­ras collocatis; superjectoque aggere terreno, ac directo in Appiae viae formam. Primo die phale­rato equo — Postridie quadrgiario ha­bitu, &c.

The reasons which the Author adds, for this Humorous Prince's undertaking such a Work, signifie nothing to the present pur­pose. Observe, I pray, the term of Puteo­lanas Moles, he doth not say Puteolos, but Puteolanas Moles. This clearly explains what those Arches were, which we see at present. This was properly what we call a Mole in our Language,There are 1 Arches. a Rampart a­gainst the violence of the Waves, that Vessels might ride in safety in the Har­bour. It is a thing commonly practised in Sea-Ports. It is true, that this Mole was made in the form of Arches, which is not agreeable to the fashion of modern Times: But this ought not to raise any Scruple; for besides that it is in vain to contest against a thing so well confirmed; we ought to consider, that things are not always done after the same manner. And moreover, one might, in my Judgment, alledge ma­ny substantial reasons to prove, that a Mole with Arches might be more durable than another; and that it may be sufficient to break the Waves, and abate the great Shocks of the Sea.

The Lake of Lucrin, à Lucro dictus, The Lake Lucrino. saith Charles Stephens, because of the great num­ber of Fish found in it, is now but a [Page 326] little Pond, of a quarter of a Mile long, and about one hundred Paces broad. The new Mountain, which I shall presently speak of, hath almost filled it up. This little Lake is not above three or fourscore Pa­ces from the Sea: It was formerly joined to it; and Pliny reports, that they were fain to make use of a great many Ma­chines, to separate them; Mare Tyrrhenum à Lucrino molibus seclusum. Suetonius tells us, that Augustus employed twenty thousand Men, to make a Communication between the Lucrino, and the Averno, and the Sea. He adds, that they made it a Ha­ven.

The Water of this Lake is always Salt: It was renowned for its Oysters, as well as Mount Gaurus. Nuptiae videbant ostreas Lucrinas, saith Varro.

One can hardly mention the Lake Lucrino, without calling to mind the Dol­phin, which Pliny, and other Authors men­tion. The Story is thus: A Dolphin be­came familiarly acquainted with a young Boy, who went every Day to School from Bayae to Puzzoli, and used sometimes to give him Bread: One Day the Dol­phin offered his Back to the School-Boy, and carried him into the Bay, and at last accustomed himself to carry him over to and from School, as often as he desired. Appian affirms, he was an Eye-witness; [Page 327] and adds, that People came from all parts to Puzzoli to see it.Mecaenas and Egesydi­mus, Authors [...]ntemporary, [...]d cited by Th. Garzoni, with Flavia­nus and F. Al­phius relate the same thing. Solinus averrs, that this continued for so long time, that at last it was not looked upon as an extra­ordinary thing. Aristotle tells us so like a Story, that, had he not lived above four Ages before these Authors, one might have concluded it the same. If we should take notice of all that the Naturalists, both Ancient and Modern, have said of the Dolphin, we should have enough to alledge, perhaps, to make the Story credi­ble. All Animals are capable of being taught; and some amongst them may have a more than ordinary inclination to a Man. That which implies no Contra­diction, ought not rashly to beThere is a dif­ference between believing a thing, and not denying it. denied. I have seen a Sea-Calf so very tame, that it would show most of the Tricks which they teach a Spaniel. Camerarius relates a great number of such Examples, in his Historical Meditations, of Dolphins, and o­ther Fishes, taught to a Miracle. I will not contend about the Word Dolphin, or enquire into the modern appellation of the Fish, formerly known by that Name.

In the Night, between the 19th and 20th of September, in the Year 1538. the Earth was brought to Bed of a Mountain, which hath ever since been called the New Moun­tain: Those who have measured it affirm,Monte Nuo­vo, or di Cencre. That it is Four hundred Toises high per­pendicularly, and three Miles and some­thing more in Circuit. Naturalists have [Page 328] observed many ways by which Moun­tains are formed; sometimes by Earth­quakes; sometimes by Winds; other times by subterraneous Eruptions; as when a Mole heaves up the Earth, and makes those little Hillocks which we call Mole-hills. It was after this last manner this new Mountain was formed, as well as the other new one which I have represented to you in the midst of the ancient Gulf of Vesuvius. The new Mountain hath a Gulf of fifty Paces di­ameter in the middle of its top; which sufficiently proves it was produc'd by Erup­tion: But it hath never cast out either Fire or Smoak since those, which were the Causes of so prodigious and dolorous a Birth. The Earth quaked; the Sea recoil­ed; the Lucrin Lake was almost filled up; Churches and Houses were set on fire, and swallow'd up; great numbers of Men and Beasts perished; and there was a general and dreadful Consternation through all the neighbouring Country.

In the County of Hereford.Your Mountain of Markle Hill came into the World after a more calm and pleasant manner; about three and thirty Years after Monte Nuovo. I remember I have read with a great deal of Pleasure, what your Naturalists have written of it. A space of Earth, containing about thirty six Acres, on a sudden broke loose from the neigh­bouring Fields, and softly walked on for about four hundred Paces from [Page 329] thence:Pliny reports, that under the Emperor, Nero in the King­dom of Naples, a Meadow, and a place planted with Olive Trees, loosened themselves from their places and removed. In Thuringia Cespes longitudine 50. pedum, latitudine 14. sine manibus Sublatus, à suo loco 20. pedum spatio trajectus, in Saxonia terra in aggeris mo­dum intumuit. Aimon, Ann. 822. These loosened Fields lifted up with them the Trees and Houses: On both sides the Earth opened it self, and withdrew, to give it passage: It marched a slow and regular pace for three Days and Nights, with little noise or disorder. At last, having chosen a new Mansion, it was pleased to swell and become a Moun­tain, now called Markle Hill. This must be allowed to be more pleasant than the thundring noise of Monte Nuovo.

On the other side of the Lucrin Lake you may behold the Mountain of Christ,Monte di Christo. another famous Hill, whose Adventure was briefly thus; The Earth formerly being sei­zed by an extraordinary quaking and trem­bling, was shaken to its deepest Entrails, and cracked from the Superficies to the very Limbo Patrum; and the entrance into this Cavern, or rather the Mouth of this open­ing, remains to be seen to this very Day. Jesus Christ entring into this dark and sor­rowful Abode, where he had been so long waited for, by those Souls which were de­stin'd to Heavenly Felicity, he led them in Triumph through this Subterranean Pas­sage, and from the top of the Mountain lifted them up to Heaven. I know not what modernAlcadino. Poet hath expressed this pre­tended Story in these two Verses.

The Lake of Averno, that other Gulf of Hell, is but a good Mile from the Lake of Lucrino; it is near about the same bigness as that of Agnano. It is certain that now Birds fly and swim there; though Virgil, Lucre­tius, Lucian saith the same thing of Acheron. Silius Italicus, Pliny, and several other Authors, have written, that it exhaled formerly a deadly Vapour which killed those Animals.

The difference between what we now see of this place, and the Description which the Ancients make of it to us, causes some to tax them commonly for Cheats, with­out any deliberation; particularly Pliny, whose Credit being crack'd on a great many other occasions, is on this, looked upon as a great Lyar. Without undertaking here to make an absolute Apology for him, I must defend him in this particular, and boldly affirm, That he is no Lyar in what he saith of the Lake of Averno. He quotes Varro, as relating a thing which for­merly was, but saith of himself nothing po­sitively. [Page 331] Pliny, a most curious Man, with­out doubt had many times visited this place. I think he was at Cumae, not far from thence, when Vesuvius burnt so terribly under the Empire of Titus; and that going towards that raging Mountain, he was so unfortunate as to lose his Life. It is then probable enough that Pliny would have spoken positively, and as an Eye-wit­ness of the Birds of Averno, if in his time the Air of the Lake had been so fatal to them: But he saith nothing like it. In his Discourses of the Lakes which have extra­ordinary Qualities, he cites Clesias the Greek Historian, who speaks of a Lake of the In­dies, on which nothing swims; and after­wards produces the Testiomony of Varro touching the Averno. Strabo relates, that the Stench of this Lake was partly caused by the Trees that hung over its Sides, which covered and compassed it round a­bout; and he adds, that these Woods being cut down by Augustus's Order, the Air be­came pure, and left off producing its usual effects.

If this matter be true, as it cannot just­ly be doubted, since this Author was Con­temporary to Augustus, and spoke without question, as a knowing Witness, we are not to admire at the positive testimony of Varro, or the Quotation of him by Pli­ny, since the one lived both before, and in the same time with Augustus, and others came not till some time afterwards. With­out being too ready to believe these Writers, [Page 332] we may easily conceive, that things may have received Alterations since their times. Boccace, who lived three hundred years since, relates in his Treatise of Lakes, That some subterraneous stream of Sulphur, mixing with the Averno, the Waters of that Lake became stinking, and killed a great many of the Fish; which, he saith, he saw with his own Eyes. This makes it plainly appear, that this Lake hath not been always in the the same Condition: And the thing may be easily explain'd, if we will but a little reflect on the bituminous and sulphureous Matters, of which the adjacent Country is full. Some Earthquake may have obstructed the Canals of Communication, by which they spread themselves into the Lake A­verno, which formerly poison'd its Waters, and caused it to exhale a subtil Matter, and the more dangerous because the Source was shut up under the shelter of those great Trees which inviron'd it. To imagine that the Birds which fly in the middle Region of the Air over the Lake, should be of­fended with its Exhalations, would be to frame a Chimera to ones self, and make the Historians say what they never intended. There is a great deal of Appearance, or ra­ther 'tis plain and certain, that if the Grotto of the Dog were but four or five times bigger than it is, a Swallow which should fly there, sweeping the Earth, could never rise again: And why must it be reckoned impossible, that some such thing might for­merly happen on the Lake of Averno? One [Page 333] of those places is greater than the other; but that alters not the Matter of Fact. If you would have another somewhat like this, and not so easie to be believed, I will quote your Natural History of England, where it is related, that the Wild Geese fall dead, when they fly directly over a certain place of the Plain of Withay in Yorkshire.

Furthermore, I will here repeat what I have often said, that let things appear to be never so improbable, provided they im­ply no Contradiction, they ought not ha­stily to be condemned for false, without due examination. It must be acknowledged, that the Ignorance of Men conceals more things than their Knowledge could ever discover. We may please our selves with acting the Philosophers, and laugh at occult Qualities, but the Phaenomena of Nature, to speak sincerely, are almost all incomprehensible. We pretend to under­stand, and to be able to explain the Ab­strusest Appearances that happen before our own Eyes, and would be ashamed to own our Ignorance: But if we are told of a­ny thing which surpasses our Under­standing, or we have not before heard of, we immediately conclude it to be either a Miracle or a Lye.

Though the Word Avernus comes from [...], as Virgil said; there are so many Lakes which bear this Name, that we may look upon it as a general Appella­tion for those Sulphurous Gulphs, which [Page 334] the Ancients call the Gates or Throats of Hell; Ostia Ditis; Orci Janua; Inferni Ja­nua Regis, as Virgil calls them. I fansie one might say the same thing of another Lake not far from this, which is one of the Acherons. And it is apparent that this made Lucretius call these kinds of Pools Averna Loca. Silius confounds our Averno with Styx and Cocytus, and the other Ri­vers of Hell; which may contribute to our believing, that these Names became common to many Lakes or Rivers of the like Nature.

The Ruines which appear in many pla­ces on the side of the Hills about the A­verno, shew that this place was extremely well cultivated, after they had cut down the Wood of tall Trees which surround­ed it.

It is uncertain whether the Ruines which are next to the Lake, are of a Temple of Mercury, or of Neptune; but Antiqua­ries agree, that it was not of a Tem­ple of Apollo, as the Vulgar suppose.

I must not forget to tell you, that when one comes near the Averno, he is sud­denly assaulted by a noisome Smell; but am not sure that it proceeds from the Lake; for its Waters are fresh, and clear enough, though they encline something to a dark Blue. I tasted them in severa places, and found they had a little sharp tang of the Mineral; notwithstanding which, the Lake abounds with Fish.

[Page 335]That which they commonly call the Grotto of the Sibyl is hard by.The Grotto of the Sibyl. The chief entrance, as they say, was near to Cumae, about four Miles from Averno, but it is all filled up on that side: We went into the great Grotto by a narrow Passage, pester'd with Briars and Thorns, every one with a lighted Torch in his Hand. The Cavern is dug under the Hillocks, without Ornaments, or any thing remarkable, except the place I will present­ly describe to you. It is about ten Foot broad, and twelve high. After you have gone about two hundred and fifty Paces, without turning, the Grotto hath a square place on the Right, and seventy or eighty Paces farther you find a little Cell of fifteen Foot in length, and eight or nine in breadth: The Roof was formerly painted, and the Walls covered with Mosaick; of which there are still some Remainders: The Earth being fallen some paces beyond the Cham­ber, the Passage is dammed up, and you can go no further.

I remember that after I had read the learned Treatise of Mr. Blondel, concerning the pretended Sibyls, and their supposed Si­bylline Writings, I easily freed my self from the power of vulgar Prejudices, and was fully persuaded that all was chimerical and supposititious: Whatsoever a considerable number of learned Men had formerly said, or some of those honest Doctors of Antiqui­ty, whom we usually call Fathers. I was afterwards confirmed in this Opinion, by studying this Matter with a competent de­gree [Page 336] of Application; and therefore you may easily think,Some pretend that the Cave of the Sibyl was at Cumae, and they cite the de­scription Justin Martyr makes of it. What he said has some relation to what Virgil speaks. But at the bot­tom, the opinion of Justin Mar­tyr is no proof; he tells you what he heard said, which sig­nifies nothing. that I give little credit to what they talk here of this Sibyl's Grotto. Many ancient Authors have spoken of a Sibylla Cumaea, and of a Den to which she retired; and People have imagin'd that this may agree with it, and have consecrated it to her without any other reason than bare imagination, and without alledging any tolerable Arguments. The Passage of Vir­gil, Excisum Euboicae, &c. signifies nothing at all: For besides, that in Virgil's time, the Fable of the Sibyl was accounted an old Er­rour; of which that Author spoke only by Tradition: I cannot see that what he said hath any relation to this Cavern.

There is no appearance that this Cave ever had centum aditus, or centum ostia; but why, I pray, must there be a Cave above a League in length, for the lodging a Sibyl? And what Workmen had she to employ in so prodigious a Task? It is also ridiculous to think that she had her Chamber wain­scotted with Mosaick; a deep and dark Den, hanged with Bats and Cobwebs, is what more properly belonged to this pre­tended mad Woman, than Chambers a­dorned with Painting and Mosaick,

If you will know what is my Opinion of this Den, I must answer you, That per­haps it was a Passage like the Grotto of Pausi­lypus, [Page 337] and perhaps also the PaintedOne may also suppose that there were Baths there for some great Lord. Cham­ber was for some Deity, as the Chapel of the same Grotto of Pausilypus is for a cer­tain Image of our Lady. Strabo relates upon the Testimony of Ephorus, an ancient Histo­rian and Geographer of Cumae, That the Cimmerians of Italy (I call them so, that I may not confound them with those of the Bosphorus) did inhabit between Bayae and the Lake of Averno; that they had no other Dwellings than subterraneous Dens, where they hid themselves all Day, and at Night issued out to perpetrate their Robberies and Murders. We will, if you please, attri­bute the digging of this Cave to them; on­ly the Mosaick agrees little better with them than with the Sibyl. To conclude, though I should tell you, that I neither know the use of this Grotto, nor when it was made, nor who were the Workmen, it would by no means follow that it was the Sibyl's Grotto. Without going further thannear to Mire­mont in Peri­gort, there is a great and fa­mous Cave, called the Clouseau; of which the Country People tell divers Stories: They say, that there are great Halls, Pictures, and Altars, and are per­suaded, that the Pagans there sacrificed to Venus, and the infernal Gods. Moreri. France or England, I might name you a great many such like Caverns, where a Sibyl never was.

Departing from this Cave we took a turn to Bayae; this was formerly,BAYAE. as you know the most pleasant and magnificent place in the World. Horace and Marti­al give it that Character; and Josephus [Page 338] exceeds them both. Martial has some Ex­pressions on this occasion, that are very soft, and yet very strong.

He calls Venus blessed, because she ru­led and triumphed in this delicious Ren­dezvous of the Roman Nobilty.

said the Poet Propertius. If you would know any thing more particularly touching the Pleasures of Baiae, you need but read the 51st Epistle of Seneca, and what Albinus hath written.

The Bay of Bayae is extremely plea­sant; the Air admirably sweet; and no­thing more charming than the little Hills, which insensibly rise about it. You may there behold the Ruines of many Tem­ples,That which the people call Fruglio, and which many Men take for a Temple, are but the remains of the Baths. Baths, and Palaces, and some of [Page 339] these Remainders of Antiquity appear e­ven in the Sea it-self. All the neighbour­hood of the City was in those times re­plenished with Houses of Pleasure. At present there are heaps of dismal Ruines, which have chang'd these formerly charm­ing places, into a meer frightful Solitude.

Between Bayae and Miseno, in the little Precinct call'd Bauli, near the Tomb of Agrippina, are to be seen the Remains of the Fishpond ofQu. Ort. Hortensius, Colleague ofQ. Cecil. Metellus. That Senator took extream delight in keeping Fishes, and used some of them to take their Food from his Hands. I have read somewhere, that one of his Friends, desiring him to give him two Mullets out of his Pond, he told him, he would sooner part with two Mules out of his Litter.

Near to this, are very great Ruines, commonly called Mercato di Sabbato. Mercato di Sabbato. Some pretend them to be the Remains of a Circus; and those who deny it, know not what to determine.

On the Sea side are great Remainders of the Country-House of Hortensius.

Near the Fish-pond, are the Ruines of a Temple, which, they say, belonged to Diana.

In the Neighbourhood, they dug up some years ago, a very fine Statue of Ve­nus, twice as big as the Life: It holds a Globe in its Right-hand, and three Oranges in its Left. I have read in Capaccio, who hath given a Description of it, that [Page 340] this Statue was found in the place where formerly was the Temple of Venus Geni­trix.

The Elysian Fields.From Bayae 'tis but a large Mile to the Elysian Fields: This is a little, but extraor­dinary delightful Plain, between the Sea and Acheron, Lago della Colluccia. that stinking Marish, which Virgil calls tenebrosa palus. Epirus and Ca­labria have also their Acherons; and I am not ingorant, that the Elysian Fields of Boeo­tia, as well as those of the two Atlantic Isles, or Gorgades Islands, which we place between those of Cape Verd, cannot come in competition with the Elysian Fields, in the Neighbourhood of Bayae.

The Academy of Cicero.I might farther speak of the Academy of Cicero, which serves at present for a Stall for Oxen;The Baths of Tritoli. of the various Baths of Tritoli, which the Physicians of Salernum, endeavoured to render useless, because they were grown so themselves, by reason of the Virtues of these Baths; of the Tomb of Agrippina, The Tomb of Agrippina. Mother of Nero, who was stabbed by Anicetus, between Bayae and Miseno; of the Fishpond ofSome pre­tend it was the Work of Lucullus. Piscina mira­bi [...]is. Cento Came­relle. Agrippa, cal­led Piscina Mirabilis, whose inside is as hard as Marble; of the other Fishpond called Cento Camerelle; and of a great number of Temples, ruinous Palaces, and other Re­mains of Antiquity: But to say Truth, I had not time to observe all these things, with sufficient attention to make an ex­act Description of 'em.

We took Boat at Bayae, and came di­rectly to Puzzeli, where we took Horse [Page] [Page]

[Page 341] to return to Naples. To Morrow Morn­ing we resolve to depart, and return to Rome.

I have but one Word more to tell you, of the Tomb of Virgil, Tomb of Vir­gil. and that of San­nazarius, before I end this long Letter. On the Pausilypus, just at the Entrance of the Grotto which leads to Puzzoli, is to be seen an ancient Monument, made in form of a Pyramid, and half destroyed; this, they say, is the Tomb of Virgil. Alfonso di [...] Heredia, G. C. Cappaccio, P. Sarnelli, &c. Some Historians of the latter Ages, have writ­ten, that in their Time, there was nine small Columns of Marble in the little Chamber of this Mausolaeum, which support­ed anJohn Villa­ni, a Neapoli­tan Chronolo­ger, saith, this Ʋrn was car­ried to Mantua. Heredia saith, it was at Ge­noua: Others have written, that the Lombards took it away: But all this is without Proof or Appearance of Truth. If the Ʋrn were at Man­tua, or at Genoua, or any where else, they would not fail to show it. Urn of the same Substance, upon which this Distich was engraven:

At present there are neiter Urn nor Columns. Though this Mausolaeum be built of great squares of Stone, yet is it al­most totally covered with Bushes and Shrubs, which have taken Root amongst them. There is amongst others, to be ob­served, a Laurel on the top of it, and the common Opinion is, that tho' they have often cropped, and plucked it up, yet it still grows again; but nothing hath been yet determined of the occult Vir­tue, [Page 342] which causes this surprizing Effect. Virgil passes among these People of Na­ples, sometimes for aM. Spon ob­serves, that Nostredamus is buried in the Cordeliers at Marseilles, half in the Church, and half without; perhaps be­cause they could not tell whether he was a Wi­zard or a Pro­phet. Conjurer, and sometimes for a Saint. Some Paces from the Tomb, there is a little old Building, which the Gardiner, who is Master of the place, told us was the Chapel where Vir­gil every Day heard Mass. Others pre­tend that he was a Sorcerer, and affirm, that he pierced the Mountain Pausilypus by Art Magick. And besides, they relate that by the same Art he made the Bra­zen Horse, of which I have spoken, whose Head is still to be seen at D. Diomedes Ca­raffa's. They were so much infatuated with this Fancy, that they attributed a Power to this Horse, of curing Horses of all Diseases, and of preserving 'em from all manner of Accidents, which should go about it a certain number of times. In effect; There were formerly a vast number of Pilgrim Horses, which came from the farthest parts of the Kingdom to Naples, and which they led in Procession round this House of Virgil. But at last, a certain Arch-Bishop being displeased with this Extravagance, obtained permis­sion to take away the Horse; out of which he cast the great Bell, which is now in the Cathedral.

The House which Sannazarius had on the Sea-side, at the foot of Pausilypus, be­ing destroyed by the War, he built a Church in the same place; which he de­dicated to the most Holy Birth of the Great [Page 343] Mother of God; and his Tomb is now to be seen in one of the Chapels of that Church. It is of White Marble,The Tomb of Sannazarius. and of exquisite Workmanship, by the Hand ofAnd partly by Frier Gia­nangelo Pog­gibonzo of Montursolo, a Frier Servite. Santa-Croce. On it you see the Bust of Sannazarius, crowned with Laurel: The two great Statues which are placed on each side, are Apollo and Minerva; but they choose rather to call 'em David and Ju­dith, that scrupulous Persons may not be offended, to find the Representations of false Gods, in a Christian Church.

Sannazarius made this Epitaph for him­self:

His Friends say that he spoke as a Poet: But they assure us, that on other Occasions, he shewed, that he had a sense of Religion. Bembus made the Distich which they have put on his Tomb:

D. O. M.

James Sannazarius took the Name of Actius Sincerus. at the request of his Friend Joannes Jovianus Pontanus, who had also changed his own Name.

I know not whether you have read the Epigram which Sannazarius made for the [Page 344] City of Venice. It is said, the Senate of that Republick presented him with a thou­sand Sequins for every Verse Others write that he had but Six hundred Crowns of Gold for all..A Sequin is worth about Ten Shillings. Ariosto would have been contented with less for his whole Orlando: Take the Epigram;

I must at last conclude my Letter. Please to give my Service to all our good Friends, and believe I shall always remain,