CHAP. I.
Treats of Embarking and Passage 'till past St. Iago.

FOR your singular Favour,The Proem. in seeing me Aboard-ship (which might reasonably be sup­posed the last kind Office to a departing Friend, considering the various Chances of so long a Voyage, as well as the Uncertainty of my Return) I must keep to that Promise, whereby you obliged me to give you an ac­count not only of my Being, but of what Occurrences were worth my Animadversion.

You may remember,Taking Ship at Gravesend, and falling down to the Buoy in the Nore. It was the 9th of December, in the Year of our Lord 1672. when by virtue of an Order from the Honourable East-India Company, I being received on Board the Ʋnity, we took of each other a long Farewel; the Ship then breaking Ground from Graves-End, to fall down to the Buoy in the Nore.

The London, Number of Ships, with Letters of Mart. War with the Hollanders. our Admiral, lay expecting our whole East-India Fleet there, which were Ten in Number; to whom his Majesty, Charles II. was pleased to grant Letters of Mart: Which impowered them to wear the King's Jack, Ancient and Pennant, and to act as Men of War (the English and French at this time being at open De­fiance against the Dutch.)

[Page 2] When they were altogether,Letter I. their Commands were to go over the Flats; The reason of going over the F [...]ats. which, notwithstanding the Hazard to Ships of their Burthen, was thought securer now than to venture about the King's Channel, where they might be exposed to the Attempts of the Hol­landers: By which means, together with the unsteadiness of the Weather, it was the day after Christmas before we arrived at the Downs; where rode a rich and numerous Fleet of Merchants, with their respective Convoys, designed for their several Places of Traffick, when the Wind should present.

Here,Stay at the Downs. as we ended the Old Year, so we began the New with a desire of prosecuting our intended Voyage: But a South-West Wind prevented our Course, and held us there Three Weeks; when an East Wind made a general delivery and a clear Downs.

Being at Sea, we made easy Sail, that our Ships might have the liberty that Night to single themselves from the Crowd of the other Ships; notwithstanding which Proviso, we had a shrewd Suspicion; for Night hastening on (and in such a swarm of Vessels of greater bulk, not so readily manageable as smaller) we beheld three Lights out of the Poop of a goodly Ship, the same unfortunate signs our Directions bound us to take notice of; which made us conclude the Damage on our side, as indeed it proved by the next Morning-song; for having cast our Eyes abroad to look what Ships we had in company, running over a great many (that had shrowded them­selves under our Protection and of Six Men of War more, Captain Munday Commander in chief (whereof Two were Fireships) sent for to meet the East India Fleet at Sancta Helena, for their better Defence homeward-bound, and to prevent their falling into the Ene­mies Hands, who had lately possessed themselves of that Island) we at length missed the Massenberg, The Massenberg disabled. on whom (it seems) a small Pink falling foul, had carried away her Head and Boltsprit, and 'tis to be feared has disabled her this Voyage; we saw her afterwards make for Portsmouth.

Off the Land's End we met with Four English Merchant Ships,Leaving the Lizzard, we met with Ships from Cales. Two French Men of War their Convoys, laden from Cales, bound for London.

In Four [...]ys, from the Downs, we were losing England on our Backs, reckoning the Lizzard the most extreme part South to bear North and By East 14 Leagues; from whence hereafter we were to fetch our Meridian Distance: It lies in the Latitude of 50 deg. 10 min. North.

Thus relinquishing the British Seas, We cross the Bay of Biscay to the Main Atlantick. we make our selves Possessors of the Western Ocean for a while: 'Till following our Compass more South, we contend with the troublous Wind and tempestuous Waves for some part of the Bay of Biscay, whose Mountain Seas we are to cut through to the Main Atlantick. Why this Sea is always troubled. What makes these Seas in such a constant Turmoil is imputed to the falling in of the whole Force of the Western Ocean into this Sinus without any Impediment, 'till it re­coil against its Shores; so that in the calmest Season here are always high swelling Billows.

About the Latitude of 41 the Men of War,The St. Helens Fleet stand for the Madera. that came out with us, determining to make the Madera Island, went away more Easterly, and the next day were out of sight.

[Page 3] Two days after we espied one Sail to the Leeward under a main Course,Chap. I. steering very doubtfully; after she had had her full view of us, she made from us too nimble for us to follow; we supposed her to be either an Algerine Pirate, or a Dutch Privateer. We still directed our Course South, and in Twenty four Hours ran One hundred and seventeen Miles by our Log-board for some days together,Little credit to be given to the Log board in respect of the Ships way. the Wea­ther not allowing us to observe with the Quadrant; but as soon as we could take the Sun's Altitude, we found our selves to be in the Latitude of 36 deg. 2 min. North, Longitude 7 deg. 26 min. West, an hundred M [...]les in four Days more than we judged our selves to be; which sufficiently proves the little credit to be given to the for­mer way of reckoning.

The following day maintaining the same Course, we past by the Mouth of the Streights of Gibraltar, Hercules's Pil­lar. one of Hercules's Pillars, the farthest Point South of all Europe.

Here we began to drop the rest of our Company,We lost our Companions by degrees. some striking East for the Streights, others West for the Canaries, Virginia, &c.

At Noon our Admiral fired a Gun, and hoisted his Ancient, whereby we understood he saw Land, which we thought to be Porto Porto, bearing off us East. An hour more being hardly run, we in like manner made the Madera Island,The Island of Madera, the largest in the Atlantick Oce­an. the largest of the whole Atlantick, being South-East some twelve Leagues, too great a di­stance to take a perfect Landschap, it being only discernible to be Land, and confirmed to be so by this days Observation, which was 33 deg. 17 min. to the Northward of the Equator, in Latitude and Longitude from the Lizzard as before, we having neither raised nor depressed it. Where the Trade-winds begin to offer themselves, the Mariner relaxes his anxious care of Sailing, and is at more lei­sure to Repose; he not being so often called upon to shift his Course, or hand his Sails; which has yet this inconvenience, giving him leave now to fall into those Distempers Idleness contracts, viz. the Scurvy, and other ill Habits; unless rouzed by an Active Com­mander, either to Sports, or more useful Employments: Although the perfect knowledge of these Trade-winds (which are more con­stant within the Tropicks) are of such importance as to make our Modern Navigators perform that in six Months, which took up the Pains and Travels of as many Years from the first Discoverers, they keeping all along the Shore, whereupon they became not only liable to unaccountable Changes,The advan­tage of under­standing the Trade-winds and the Azi­muth. as they met with Land briezes, Head-lands, or Contrary Winds; but were many times disappointed either to go on, or return, by the several Accidents they encountered thereupon; which these more experienced and bold Adventurers by standing off to Sea, and study of their Compass by a more accu­rate Computation of their Way by the Quadrant and Azimuth, and a strict enquiry of the commencing and terminating of these Winds, avoid.

In this short space we have almost out-ran the Northern Winter's Blasts, and begin to be sensible of a more vigorous Clime, whose temperate Warmth adds Spirits to our frozen Limbs: Yet in this forward Spring (for such it seemed to us) we cannot escape some Lashes of that cold Nemesis; for Night being come, she sends a Storm of Rain and Ha [...]l with an high and bleak Wind, in which [Page 4] appeared the Sailors Deities, Castor and Pollux, or the same it may be gave light to those Fables, they boding fair Weather to Seamen, though never seen but in Storms,The Meteor Castor and Pol­lux. looking like a Candle in a dark Lanthorn, of which there were divers here and there above the Sails and Shrowds, being the ignes fatui of the Watery Element; by the Portugals christned Querpo Santos, the Bodies of Saints, which by them are esteemed Ominous. But I think I am not too positive in relating them to be a Meteor-like substance exhaled in the Day, and at Night (for except then, they shew not themselves) kindled by the violent Motion of the Air, fixing themselves to those parts of the Ship that are most attractive: For I can witness they usually spent themselves at the Spindles of the Top-mast-heads, or about the Iron-hoops of the Yard arms, and if any went towards them, they shifted always to some Part of the like Nature.

The succeeding Morning had not long withdrawn this black Vail, and brought us tidings of a more serene Day, when we beheld our Frigots that had left us,The St. Helen's Fleet over­take us. busking after us with all the winged speed they could, and about Noon they gained us, keeping on the same Course as we, but missed of their design of touching at the Ma­dera's.

Being blessed with a prosperous Gale, in fifteen Days from Eng­land we were to the Southward of the Tropical Circle of Cancer, We cross the Tropick of Cancer. which lies in 23 deg. and ½ North, and passeth through Barbary, In­dia, China, and Nova Hispania; we making at Twelve at Noon, Latitude 22 deg. 16 min. North, Longitude 8 deg. West, when we must be 1 deg. 14 min. South of the Tropick.

A Guinea Merchant-man bound for the River Gamboa kept us Company hither,A Guinea Ship took leave of us last. but his Voyage requiring a more Easterly Course, was the last Merchant Ship took leave of us.

We holding on still South, the frequent Noise of Thunder, the sultry Rains,We draw near the Sun. quiet Seas in respect of what we had before, were assured tokens of our drawing nigher to that Fountain of Heat, the Sun.

By reason whereof it was familiar to behold, the sportful Fishes greedy of their Prey raise whole Flocks of that Scaly Nation. For those whom Nature has placed in the vast Deep, defenceless of themselves, and innocent to others of a more powerful Greatness, so as many times they become their Prey, she has not altogether left them unprovided; either out of her abhorrency of Idleness, re­solving every thing should labour for its Belly, or else out of a pe­culiar respect towards every individual Species for their Preserva­tion as well as Production;Flying Fishes and their Pur­fuers. furnishing these with Fins of larger size and double use for swifter conveying them under Water, as also for soaring into the Air when they are too closely pursued. Of these sort we saw good store flying from Bonetos and Albecores, who were hunting them. Some of these flying Fish (for no other Name they have as I can learn) were so put to it, that after often dip­ping their fishy Wings in the briny Water (without which genuine Artifice they could not use them) chose rather to make our Ship their Sanctuary, than to yield themselves to the Jaws of their devouring Adversaries: By which means you have their more exact Description, they being as large as a River Perch bedeckt with Silver-spangled Scales, and long Fins as before.

[Page 5] Not many days after, two of the lesser Off-spring of the great Leviathan, (the Weather being calm, these sort of them else not visible, being of no swift motion) came sailing after us; our Men as eager of them as they of their Prey, hastned their Engines for to take them; which no sooner in the Water, but each of them guided by some half a dozen delicately coloured little Fishes, which for their own safeguard perform the Office of Pilots, (they never offering to satisfy their Hunger on them) who lead them to the Baits; when they turning their Bellies up, seize upon them on their Backs, hook themselves in the Toils, beating the Sea into a Breach, and not without a great many Hands are drawn over the sides of the Ship; which seen by the poor silly little Fishes (as conscious of their Error) they swim to and again, and hardly for­sake the Ship; but being within Board, the Ship's Company armed with Hatchets presently divide the Spoil.Sharks and Pi­lot-Fishes. They are not scaly, and therefore imagined to be a kind of Whale, being finned like them, with a great Fin on their Backs near their Tails, (which dried is used instead of a Slate) of a darkish grey Colour on their Backs, lighter on their Sides, and white under their Bellies; their Snout on the same Plain with their Mouths, but their Mouth within that a great way; the cause why they turn their Bellies when they take their Prey. The Mouth of one of them extended, is two Spans wide, armed within with three Tire of sharp pointed Teeth on both Jaws, so piercing that Needles exceed them not, and of such strength that a Leg or an Arm, Bone and all, is but an easy Morsel; wherefore called Sharks by the Seamen, on whom they are bold enough to fasten, and dismember if not shunned when they wash themselves: They are of a rank smell, and not good to eat but by stout Stomachs; of Length they are ten, sometimes fourteen Feet.

By this time we had got into 17 deg. 19 min. North Latitude, Longitude 9 deg. 10 min. West, when our Men of War thinking to birth themselves before us at St. Iago, (where our Ships were permitted to refresh,The Men of War out-sail us. being otherwise tied up by Charter-party not to put in any where unless for absolute necessity) made all the Sail on head they could.

Our Commanders were well enough content with their proffer, knowing the danger of a many Ships going in there together: The day ensuing plying to the West, The Island Beunavista. we discovered Beunovista bearing full West ten Leagues, but at Noon were within two Leagues of it.

It is one of the Islands of the Gorgades or Cape Verde, One of the Cape Verde Islands. They are Nine in all. because situate over against that Promontory on the Land of Negros.

They are said to be Nine in Number. Beunovista, quasi good sight, it deserving that Appellation from four Hills, which raising themselves to an Eminency above their Fellows, yield a fair Pro­spect at a distance; but approaching nigher it is not unlike the crawling of a Snake, it's various Hills and Vallies fluctuating as it were, seem to borrow that riggling Shape, the two remotest Moun­tains figuring her Crown and Head.

CHAP. II.
Contains our Passage from St. Iago to Johanna, and Rela­tion of that Island.

THUS forsaking these African Islands, and being forsaken of all but our own Fleet, with a brisk Gale we gave our Ships head to the Eastward of the South; whereby we came nearer to the Coast of Africa; the Northern Monsoons (if I may so say, being the Name imposed by the first Observers, i. e. Motiones) lasting hi­ther; they (springing from the pressure of the Winter's Snow, Clouds or Vapours lodged on the Artic Mountains,A proof of the necessity of knowing the Trade­winds. and now beginning to be dissolved) leave us to struggle with those moving with the Sun, between the Tropicks East and West, as those without do North and South, mostly or collaterally to those Ca [...]dinal Points. And therefore we are forced to steer more Easterly, either to fetch a Wind to cross the Aequator, or gain a Side-wind from the constant ones to carry us to Brasil. For which cause those Ships bound for St. Helen's from Europe, must come into the Latitude of 28 deg. South, and some­times to the Cape of good Hope, before they can bend their Course thither, though in a direct Line it would cut off three quarters of the way.

When we were in four degrees of the Line, and Longitude from St. Iago 7 deg. 22 min. East, (renewing thence our Meridian) we became subject to the most parching Heat of the Torrid Zone; whose Effects were so much the more outragious, by as much as the Winds shrank upon us from off the Coast of Ginea (which we drew nigh to) and had left us at a stand, the usual Treatment hereabouts, imputed to the scarcity of Mountains on that vast Tract of ground: Insomuch,Near the Coast of Ginea met the Tornados. that we lay wholly at the mercy of the two unruly Ele­ments, Fire and Water; the one assailing us with flashy Lightnings, and horrid Noises, breaking forth the Airy Region; the other pour­ing on us whole Streams of unwholsome and dangerous Flouds, when they fall in Spouts, (which are frequent here:) Nay the kindest and the softest downfal on our Bodies is productive of Vermin, such as Flies, and Maggots, if our Cloaths be not quickly dried and shifted; (these Seasons the Seamen term the Tornados.)

But above all, when these had played their parts, the scorching Sun making towards us with his fiery Face made us almost breath­less: [Page 11] In this remediless Condition we lay,Chap. II. till Heaven pitying our lan­guishing under this burning Fever, dispatched to our Relief an East South East Wind, which leading us West and by South, brought us to the South of the Equinoctial Line,Crossed the Line. depressing our Longitude to 5 deg. 55 min. East. And now we were to the Northward of the Sun four degrees, with whom circling a little East, in nine days time we were in a Perpendicular, whereby our Quadrants became of small use, we not being able to make an Observation for their want of Shade, but by an Astrolabe at Night:Out-sailed the North-Star. The Sun passing over our Heads, and we being to the Southward of the Line, the first fair Wind made us out-sail the Northern Polar Star, it not being to be seen in this Horizon.

Steering now by the Crosiers, Raised the Crosiers and Magellanian Clouds. a South Constellation, taking its Name from the Similitude of that Pastoral Staff; as also supplied by the Magellanian Clouds, in number Two, (averred to be such by those that use this way continually) fixed as the North Star; but to me they seem no other than a Galaxia, caused by the Reflection of the Stars.

Being to the Southward of the Sun's Declination,A North Sun makes Noon as a South Sun did before. The Calen­ture rages in the Fleet. it is obvious to note, a North Sun makes the same time of Day a South Sun does on the contrary side.

An Epidemical Distemper, by the Sea-Chyrurgions termed a Calenture (a malignant Fever with a Frenzy, so that if not watch­ed, they leap into the Sea) raging in the Fleet, many were thrown over-board.

Where the Atlantick (washing the Shores all along from the Streights of Gibraltar) mixes with the Aethiopick Ocean,Extent of the Atlantick and Use of the Azimuth to correct the Common Chart. there the Meridian Compass varies very much, so that the Wind being at South-East and by East, lays out a South and by West way, but cor­rected by the Magnetick Azimuth (which gives the Sun's Ampli­tude) it differs two Points and an half, which with Leeway allow'd, makes a South-West Course, which we held on till we were on the Coasts of Brasil, when we were at distance enough to take the Alti­tude of the Sun, which made 14 deg. 40 m. South Latitude, Longi­tude 2 deg. 24 min. East.

Being between Brasil and several Islands, as Trinidado, Isl. de Picos, Sancta Maria, &c. we met with Winds carried us to the South of the Tropick of Capricorn, The Tropick of Capricorn. which crosseth Aethiopia Inferior, and the midst of Peruviana.

Before we leave this Ecliptick Circle, we must observe at the Aequator, the Sun becomes twice Perpendicular; at each Tropick but once; beyond them never; because hence may naturally be collected all the Seasons of the whole Year; unless some accidental Cause, as the Interposition of Mountains, Headlands, Lakes, or such like intervene.

But in his Solar Progress Through the twelve Signs, the Sun always carries Rain along with him, its Heat otherwise could not be endured; for which reason, the first Contriver and Former of all things,The Course of the Sun through the Zodiack, the cause of the Seasons of the Year. has ordained the wet Season a Winter to those inhabit here, and to them as dreadful as our cold Seasons to us (which we shall evidence more experimentally when we come to live among them): On this account is it, that under the Line two Winters and two Summers [Page 12] alternately succeed, but not above three quarters of that length as the one at each Tropick, they continuing four Months together; to wit, four Months Winter, as many Summer, and the other four Months moderate or cold Weather; though nearer the Line, the Rule holds not good as to the cool Weather, for that cause more frequently visited with Wet than the Sunshine.

Our Men at length tired with salt Provisions, began to be stu­dious for fresh; Necessity having taught them an Invention, by counterfeiting those formerly mentioned Flying fish,Certain Sea­fishes for Food. with a white Rag stuffed to hide the Hook, and Feathers pricked in instead of Fins, to catch their Enemies at their own game, and so they did; providing for themselves and us too, Bonetos and Albicores; the latter bigger than the former, in length two Feet, in thickness one, of a brave shining Colour, with spiked Fins; but the other preferred by the Palate, bearing the make of our Jacks; both of them a good Repast at Sea, where it is denied to be curious in our choice.

The Dolphin is extolled beyond these,The Dolphin. which they strike with a Fisgig: They are swift and strait when they swim, and for Compo­sure surpass all others in neatness, as well as for variety of Colours, for which it seems to vie with the Rain-bow, or Juno's darling Bird, the Peacock.

There is another Fish they call a Stone-Bass, The Stone-Bass which eats better than it looks, it being of a Colour sandy, but has a Relish equal to our Soles.

Hitherto having kept mostly a South-West Course, furthered in it by Gales from the Coast of Ginea, we are now to expect Westerly Winds to carry us to Cabo da boa esperança; Gales from the West to reach the Cape. near the Latitude of 30 deg. South we had a promising Fresco, but somewhat dulled by too frequent Calms, yet here not so vexatious as before, we going retrograde with the Sun.

It is observable here,The Current of the Sea a­gainst the Wind. that the Sea had a contrary Course with the Wind, presumed to proceed from its blowing so long in one Quar­ter; and now not altered so long as to be powerful enough to turn the Current of the Waters.

Gaining upon the East with a slow pace, we met with those fea­thered Harbingers of the Cape,Cape-Birds. as Pintado Birds, Mangofaleudos, Albetrosses; the first remarkable for their painted Spots of black and white; the last in that they have great Bodies, yet not pro­portionable to their Wings, which mete out twice their length.

Three Months being near consumed, we were at last accompa­nied with long lookt for Western Blasts, and now we fly afore the Wind: But by the way take notice a South-West Wind becomes as bleak here, as a North-East in England. So that all the Seasons of the Year being undergone in this time, we may begin to calculate our Ephemeris afresh; and as a fit Platform, Easter Holy-days bring with them such Weather as is essential to Christide.

But bidding Adieu to these Fancies, the Wind that till now seemed to dally, proves in good earnest, and begins a frowning April, driving the trembling Sea on heaps, and on them piling more, till the swelling Surges menace the lowering Skies, leaving a Hollow where they borrowed their Gigantine vastness, as if they were [Page 13] intended to exenterate the Treasures of the Deep. At top of which 'twas dreadful to behold the angry Surface of the foaming Billows,Winter Storms and Tempests attend us to the Cape. descending down beneath no less uncomfortable, when the Vans of the next Ships (though groveling with a neighbouring Wave) could not be discerned.

This tossing Condition lasted long, and was taken kindly too, as long as we spooned before the Sea, and kept from running foul of one the other; but when a Fret of Wind rowled the Waves athwart our Quarters, it made our Ship shake, proving the sound­ness of her Sides, where had she given way never so little, we must have sunk without Bail or Mainprize. Still the Tempest encreases, and brings with it Gusts of Rain and dismal darksome Weather, whereby we were separated from the rest of our Fleet: For all, we put our Lights abroad as did they, yet in the badness of the Night we lost them, and were left alone to shift with the boisterous Winds.

At last the Morn appears,We and the Caesar separa­ted from the Fleet for two Days. but with the Symptoms of a blowing Day. She had not wafted many Hours, but on the advantage of a rising Wave, we spied a Sail to Leeward with her Fore-top-mast by the Board, which at Noon we knew to be the Caesar crowding under all its Sails.

In this Encounter we shipped many a perilous Sea, (not with­out being well-drenched our selves): Such was the force of this Nights Storm, that our Boat, and some of our Men, were not without difficulty restrained from being carried over-board. In this pickle we reeled out this Day, and out-stretching the Caesar, we made what Sail we durst, and by the next Light had sight of our Fleet, who shortning Sail, we came up with them, to whom we declared the misfortune of the Caesar, and that it bore South-West; wherefore they lay by, (the Wind slackning) and in half an hour we saw the Hull, and presently after it made up our Company compleat again.

Near the middle of this Month we could have made that known Cape, the Cape of Good Hope, Had Sound­ings off the Cape of Good Hope. being in the Latitude of 36 deg. 14 min. South, and Longitude from St. Iago 37 deg. 19 min. East. But the Dutch having some Forts there, it was thought no good Policy; wherefore veering to the South, the Cape bore East-North-East, some thirty Leagues off us; for heaving our Dipsy-lead we were in soundings eighty Fathom depth, which the Pilots note to be in that distance.

Here we made two Sail to Leeward, and one to Windward, who directed her Course with us; but the Wind from the Shore coming East, they Tacked, and she passed without speaking to her: But the Leeward-most came up boldly to us and the Ann (we be­ing the nearest and ready to receive them);Spoke with some English Ships home­ward bound. but making them En­lish built by their Galleries, we only shewed them our Colours (which they answered by St. George's Cross) and fired a Gun; when they brought to, and we bearing up, our Commander went Aboard one of them, the Johanna, a Ship of 700 Tuns laden from Bantam, who told us, That five more were in Company with them from the Coasts, but dispersed by Tempests; the other Ship was the Bernardiston; that which escaped us, the Rebecca.

[Page 14] They also inform'd us, The French had worsted the Flemmings in India, taken and demolished a Fort on the Island Ceilon; and that they had beat the Moors out of St. Thomas: That on our side never a Ship was lost, as they heard. So likewise giving them an Account of what we knew, with some Instructions communicated on both sides, we left them to take their Course, which served them for St. Hellens, the Antartick Monsoons favouring them directly thi­ther, and the Squadron under Captain Munday, if they have raised the South Latitude of 28. may be there a little before to expect them.

We kept on South-East, till we had doubled the most Southern Promontory of the Cape, Cape de Angullis, (which Course would lead us to Bantam) when bending to the North, we held on till we came betwixt St.Doubled Cape de Angullis to gain St. Law­rence. Lawrence or Madigascar, and the Main, reckoned one of the four biggest Islands in the World, viz. Sumatra, Java, St. Lawrence and Britannia. The most traded Empories here, are St. Augustine on the Island, and Mosambique on the Main; frequent­ed by the Portugals for Elephants Teeth, Gold, Camphire, and Ambergreece. Why we creep in between this Island and the Main, Is to borrow from the Land-briezes assistance against the general stated Winds settled for these Months between the Cape and this Island.

The Sea here takes the Name of Oceanus Orientalis, The Eastern-Sea. beginning from the Cape till it joyn with the Indian, Red, and Arabian Seas.

Here it was we had a notable Fish stretched its self along our sides for the space of an hour: Some called it a Grampos; but those that pretended skill, would have it a young Whale: It might be in length forty Feet and upward, bolting out of the Water with a great Surf; the Mouth large, but not responsible to so large a Body, the Form whereof was a Pyramid inverted, the Basis of which from Gill to Gill near five Feet in breadth, the Conus termi­nating with a narrow Snout; where his Mouth opening, he suckt in a huge quantity of Water, and with that same eddy his Prey, which he retains within his Jaws, but spouts the Water out with the same spurting noise our Engines make, and as immense an heighth from an hole in his Neck, opening after the fashion of a Mouth or Slit; at the performance of which Action it contracts its self into an Orbicular Figure, and again dilates its self in its Diastole: The Back is of a dark Gray without Scales,A Whale. sixteen Feet over, leaping as other Fishes, but in a more Majestick manner, moving but slowly, whereby we had the sight of his Head and Neck first, (all one Rock, and as impenetrable, it being proof against the Prongs of the sharpest Harping-Iron); his whisking Tail last, near which a ridge of Fins, the true mark of Distinction for a Whale: The extreme part of his Tail extended is very broad and finny, which is the Rudder to this great Leviathan, wherewith, and two Fins more proceeding one from each side, he guides himself through his watery Territories.

May had now began,We follow the Sun. when making after that glorious Charioteer, the Sun, we were once more spirited with milder Weather; the Mariners casting off their wet Cloaths, cared not for any more than would slightly cover them.

[Page 15] We being in sight of five Small Islands off St. Lawrence, for fear of the Tides driving them on shore,Lost sight of S. Lawrence. some of our Ships anchored; by which lingring we lost two of our Companions for two days; but we steering something West, and lying by a-nights to prevent falling on St. Christophers and Juan de Novo, both Low Lands, they had time to reach us: Being becalmed, it was the middle of the Month before we lost sight of St. Lawrence.

The day after we had Meoty on our Larboard Bow, bearing North-East 20 Miles, High Land.

CHAP. III.
Declares our Course from Johanna, to our landing at Mechlapatan.

A Fresh Gale and a fair Wind soon set us once more to the Nor­ward of the Equinoctial, We repass the Equinoctial Line. accompanied with soaking Showers, Thunder, and Cloudy Weather, which with the continuance of the Winds did us a kindness; for following the heels of the Sun, we were got within Twelve Degrees of him, when we sailed into the Indian Sea, East North-East, the Maldive Islands being South-East, the Red Sea West North-West, and the Arabian North by West, with­out labouring under that irresistible Heat we did before; by reason of which adjunct Heat, the Rains however became intemperate; not but that they mitigated the Heat in actu, tho as to its effects, it proved more virulent, impregnating the Air with a diseased Consti­tution, whereupon we had many hung down their Heads.

About the third Degree of North-Latitude we lost sight of the Magellanian Clouds and the Crociers,The North-Star is raised again. and raised our Northern Polar Director.

Having 8 deg.The Maldivae Islands. 53 min. North Latitude, we left the Sun to run his Race to the North; and steering East to raise our Longitude, we fell into a Channel between the Maldivae (a Concatenation of Islands from the Equator hither, and here only parted by this Chan­nel, the rest of them lying scatteredly to the 10^th deg. of North La­titude) which makes us lye by a-nights, (signified by One Light out of the Main-Top of our Admiral (which he always carries at Night), and another out of the middle Lanthorn on the Poop, an­swered by all the rest with one at the same place), for fear of fal­ling foul of them, the Weather continuing wet, dark, and tem­pestuous.

After which we shaped our Course East South-East, Near Ceilon. when the Ad­miral fired a Gun, spreading St. George's Flag in the Mizen-shrowds for a Consultation, knowing we began to draw near Ceilon, an Island [Page 23] in the East-India, Chap. III. divided from Cape Cory by Pt [...]lomy, Comory by our Modern Authors, by a narrow, swift, and unnavigable Current, where the Flemings have nested themselves in the Portugals Castles at Co­lumbo, Point de Gaul, and elsewhere; so that if at all, we are to meet with them hereabouts, they commonly having a Fleet of Ships in these Seas: We out of necessity are forced to make this Land, and were it peaceable Times should sail all along in sight of it, till we came upon the Coast of Cormandel.

Wherefore our Commander returning on board, after assigning every one his Post, to be ready on any surprize, he found a Chear­fulness in all to obey him.

Here two Whales,A Couple of Whales. A Fright oc­casioned by a mistake in the Night. bigger than the former, shewed themselves.

In the dead of the night a lamentable Outcry was caused by some of our Men on the Forecastle, who looking out thought they had seen a Rock, with which these Seas abound, whereupon they cried out, A Breach, a Breach; which made the Mates leap out of their Cabins with the same grisly Look as if going to give up their last Accounts: Here was Doomsday in its right Colours, Distraction, Horror, and Amazement had seized on all, one commanding this, another acting quite contrary; the Breach surrounding us, every one expected the fatal stroke, when the Ship should be dashed in pieces. In this Pa­nick Fear, had any had so much heart as to have ventured a Compo­sition for his empty Noddle by looking over-board, he might have discovered the Jig: For at length it was evident that only a Chorus of Porpoises had taken the Sea in their Dance; which Morris once over, the Seas were quiet, and our Men left to repose themselves with a shorter Nap than they thought themselves like to have.

Five days after our Summer Solstice we had soundings 14 Fathom, and at break of day had sight of Ceilon, when we altered our Course to East North-East; it bore from us North by West 12 Leagues, the out-Land low, but rarely enriched with Woods of Cinamon, from whence only it is brought.

CHAP. IV.
Takes up our stay at Mechlapatan, to our Landing at Fort St. George.

THE next Morning the Second of the Factory (the Chief) being at Fort St. George, The Treasure set on Shore. visited the Admiral, and ordered the Treasure to be set on Shore.

That if the empty Hollander should be so hardy as to face us, their small hopes of Plunder might abate their Courage; which otherwise might tempt them to attack us with the greater vi­gour.

The Boat-men that came for it were of a Sun-burnt Black,The Boatmen described. with long black Hair, tied up in a Clout of Calicut Lawn, girt about the Middle with a Sash, in their Ears Rings of Gold; those that were bare-headed, were shorn all to one Lock, which carelesly twisted up (some have foolishly conceited) to be left for Perimel (one of their Prophets) to hold fast by when he should haul them to Heaven; but more truly to preserve them from the Plica Polo­nica, which attends long Hair not cleanly kept, and to which these People are incident.

Among these,Peons, or Ser­vants to wait on us. some more modish than the rest, as going in a Garb more Civil, Coiling Calicut about their Heads, Turbat fashion, on their Bodies light Vests, underneath long loose Breeches, and swadled about the Waist with a Sash; offered their Service for a small Pension, to execute our Affairs on Shore, or wait on us Aboard.

These spake English, and acquainted us, how the French had set fire to four Vessels of the Moors, and made Prize of four more, as they were in this Road not two Months ago; that they had con­strained some Dutch Factories to run on score to supply their wants with Victuals, and other Necessaries; whose Credit, by these Emergencies, and their Cash failing, begins to sink: Money be­ing here not only the Nerves and Sinews, but the Life it self of Trade.

Being sent for on Shore by the desire of the Factory,Landing at Mechlapatan. by one of the Country Boats, I was landed at Mechlapatan: These Boats are as large as one of our Ware-Barges, and almost of that Mould, sailing with one Sail like them, but padling with Paddles instead of Spreads, and carry a great Burthen with little trouble; outliving either Ship or English Skiff over the Bar. Which by the rapid motion of the Waves driving the Sands into an Head, makes a noise as deafning as the Cataracts of Nile, and not seldom as difficult a Downfal. Over this the Land shuts us up on both sides, and the stiller Waters con­tentedly do part their Streams to embrace the Town.

Near which a Fort or Blockade (if it merit to be called so) made of Dirt,The Fort and Town. hides half a score great Guns; under the command of which several Moors Junks ride at Anchor. A Bow-shot from whence the Town it self, environed with a Mud Wall, entrenched with a stink­ing [Page 27] Moras,Chap. IV. and at some time Moated with the Sea, creates a spa­cious Prospect; it is of Form oblong.

Their Bank Solls, Their Cu­stom-House Keys. Their Private Dwellings. or Custom-House Keys, where they land, are Two; but mean, and shut only with ordinary Gates at Night.

The High-streets are broad, set forth with high and lofty Build­ings, the Materials Wood and Plaister, beautified without with fold­ing Windows, made of Wood, and lattised with Rattans, entring into Balconies shaded by large Sheds covered with Tiles: Within a Square Court, to which a stately Gatehouse makes a Passage, in the middle whereof a Tank vaulted, with a flat Roof above, and on it Terras Walks are framed, the one to wash in, in the heat of the day; the other to take the Air in the cool of the day; the whole Fabrick intire within its self, covered atop Taber-like.

The poorer, of which multitudes are interspersed, both in their High-streets and Allies, are thatched, cast round as Bee Hives, and walled with Mud; which in the Summers drought often take fire, and lay the taller equal with the ground.

For publick Structures their principal Streets present sundry Mosques,Publick Stru­ctures. one Custom-house, one Court of Judicature, and that but mean.

For Places of resort there are three Buzzars, or Market-places, crowded both with People and Commodities.

On the North-East a Wooden Bridge,The Bridges. half a Mile long, leading to the Bar Town; on the North-West one, a Mile Long, tending to the English Garden, and up the Country. Each of which have a Gate-house, and a strong Watch at the beginning, next the Town: Both these are laid over a Sandy Marsh, where Droves of People are always thronging.

The present Incumbents are the Moors, Persians, Gentiles; So­journers Armenians, (who maintain their Correspondence over Land) Portugals, Dutch and English; and some few French.

For the Story of it,The Story of this Place, and the Kingdom of Gulconda. and with it of the Kingdom; the Gentues, the Portugal Idiom for Gentiles, are the Aborigines, who enjoyed their freedom, till the Moors or Scythian Tartars (whether mediately from Persia, or immediately from that overflow of Tamerlane into these Parts, is not material, since they both pretend to the same Ex­tract, and that will be fitter declared in another place) undermi­ning them, took advantage of their Civil Commotions. For one Caff or Tribe (by the Chief of which they were ruled) clashing with another, overturned all; which that we may the better un­derstand,

These Tribes were distinguished by their Occupations,At first go­verned by their Tribes. espousing therefore Vocations as well as Kindred; and thereby, as one was a more honourable Calling than the other, so they stood upon their Nobility in that Imployment, never marrying out of it.

As the Head were the Brachmines, the Ancient Gymnosophists; out of whom branched their Priests, Physicians, and their Learned Men.

Next in esteem were the Rashwaws, Rashpoots, or Souldiers.

But the most insolent were the Artificers;How altered. as the Engravers, Re­finers, Goldsmiths, Carpenters, and the like; who behaved them­selves not only disrespectfully to their Superiours, but tyrannically to [Page 28] those of a viler Rank; as the Husbandmen and Labourers. Whereupon they jointly conspired their Ruin, and with that their own Slavery; ta­king the Moors to their assistance, who not only reduced the Usurpers to Composition, which was, That they should be accounted the Off­scum of the People, and as base as the Holencores (whom they ac­count so, because they Defile themselves by eating any thing, and do all servile Offices) and not be permitted to ride in a Palenkeen at their Festivals or Nuptials, but on Horseback, which they count an high Disgrace; but they also took the Power into their own hand; which though Despotical, the Gentus endure, rather than endeavour the re­covery of their former Liberty, and to subvert it from a Monarchy into an Aristocracy.

Their King reigning is a Moor, raised to the Throne from the lowest ebb of Fortune.

For it being in the breast of the Regent to appoint his Successor,Their King a Chias Moor. his Predecessor, on defect of his own Children, raised him; by the practice of Siegmanjaffa, his Chief Eunuch (who are made in this Kingdom the prime Ministers of State) partly to strengthen his own Interest by ingratiating with the Heir Apparent, and partly out of gratitude to the Young man's Father, a Great Man, and of the Bloud-Royal, who, when alive, was the promoter of Siegmanjaffa: This same Prince of the Chias, or Sophian Extract, was raked out of the Embers of Oblivion.

Where you must note,All Noble­mens Estates fall to the King at their Deaths. That though his Father expired a Blazing Comet in the Court, yet at the death of any Nobleman, his Wealth falls all into the King's hands; whereby this poor Gentleman for a long time lived an obscure and miserable Life, no one taking his word for the Victuals he put into his Belly: But upon the old King's importunity for one to sway the Scepter after him of his own Line, Siegmanjaffa urged him; and placed him poor and lean as he was, where the King might see him, but not he the King.

At first the King rejected him, as having no promising look; still Siegmanjaffa interceded, and desired his Lord to allow him like a Gentleman, and see to what use he would expend his Money: Which condescended to, a Brachmin (who are become the Farmers of the King's Rents) was dispatched to offer him the Loan of Mo­ney, which he willingly accepted of, and therewith put himself into an handsome Equipage, both for Apparel and Attendants (which specious Shews recommend here more than profoundness of parts) and withal Fed and Whored (which is a great point of Manhood) as well as the best of them. Wherefore after a short time he was again brought into the King's Presence, who now began to have some hopes of him; and therefore to try him farther, he gave him a con­stant supply of Money; and bad Siegmanjaffa put him on some lau­dable Enterprize in his Army, of which Siegmanjaffa was General; which he undertook with much Alacrity, and behaved himself with that Gallantry, that at length the Old King sent him a Tipstaff with a Royal Robe, requiring him to come to Court in one of the King's own Palenkeens: At which he was dismay'd, Saying he should never return to his House again.

However, by Siegmanjaffa's encouragement he apparelled him­self, and rode on the King's Palenkeen: His Jealousy was grounded [Page 29] on a barbarous Custom of the Eastern Monarchs, who when any Subject becomes suspected, send them alike honourable Presents with those in Favour,The barba­rous Custom of Poysoning among the Eastern Mo­narchs. which in their receit only shall testify to the World the King's Displeasure, though they whom they are designed for, live not to know the cause, being poysoned by them before they can plead for themselves. But he was assured no ill Intentions were to­wards him when speaking with the King face to face, he declared him his Successor to the Crown, which not long after he was esta­blished in by the Death of his Master.

His Residence is at Gulconda, Gulconda is the Metropolis, and gives Name to the Kingdom. The Prime Minister an Eunuch. The Wealth how raised. the Metropolis, and bearing the Name of the Kingdom, fifteen days journey West from hence.

Under him Siegmanjaffa orders the whole Realm, amassing great Treasures (though he himself pays Homage to the Great Mogul) exacting every Man's Estate when he pleases, mulcting them at his own Will, squeezing the common People to perfect Penury: Be­sides the Reversions of Great Mens Estates, he has large Revenues from his Diamond Mines, which he lets out yearly to those bid most.

His Expences are inconsiderable,The Army how paid. his Subjects in their distinct Pro­vinces maintaining his Soldiers, of whom he has a standing Army of an Hundred thousand Horse and Foot, when all together; besides Two hundred Elephants in continual readiness, which are provided for by the Farmers of his Revenues.

All that he consumes is on his Voluptuousness, with which he is swallowed up.

The Kingdom of Gulconda extends from 10 deg.The bigness of the King­dom. North Latitude, to 19 deg. ½ along the Coasts of Coromandel, and up into the Coun­try Three hundred Course (which is a Mile and a quarter) though in some places thinly inhabited.

The next in Dignity to Siegmanjaffa, The Governor of Mechlapa­tan. is the Governor of Mechla patan, an Eunuch also, and a Slave to Siegmanjaffa, who came through the Town. while we were here, waited on by a Noble Train, besides Soldiers and Followers; having an Elephant led before his Palenkeen, which none presume to do, unless the King honour them therewith; nor to ride on any but Females, unless of the Royal Family, who may only mount a Male to ride in State through their Cities. His Substitute here is a Chias Moor, who takes charge of the Stores every Night.

Over the Gentues they keep a strict hand, entrusting them with no Place of Concern, using them as Mechanicks and Servitors, to few of them attributing the Title of Merchants; though in this Town of Moors and Persians there are many Owners of good Trading Vessels.

The Persians have planted themselves here through the Intercourse of Traffick as well as Arms,The Persians Favourites at Court. being all of them at their first coming, low in Condition; but inspired by the Court-Favour, and making one of their own Nation always their Executors, they arrive to Pre­ferment. Nor are any of these so exempted when they grow too rich, to be deplumated by the same hand.

Their way of living is truly Noble,Their Port and Grandeur. having a Retinue which be­speaks their Greatness as they rise in Fortune or the King's Grace.

[Page 30] Magnaque est Comitum aemulatio quibus primus ad Principem locus, & Principum cui acerrimi & plurimi Comites. Haec dignitas, hae vi­res, magno semper electorum juvenum globo circumdari; in pace decus, in bello prae [...]idium. Each contending to have the most numerous and handsomest Fellows for Attendance; their Pride at home, and abroad their Safeguard.

However,The East-India Company Fa­ctors. for the English Honour be it spoke, none of them sur­pass the Grandeur of our East-India Company, who not only com­mand, but oblige their utmost Respect; none of their Servants shew­ing themselves in Publick without a Company answerable to theirs, and exceeding them in Civility of Garb and Manners. When the Chief made his Entry at his Return from the Fort, it was very Pom­pous, all the Merchants of Esteem going to meet him with loud Indian Musick and Led-Horses: Before his Palenkeen an Horse of State, and two St. George's Banners, with English Trumpeters; after him the Factors on Horseback, and lusty Fellows running by their sides with Arundells, (which are broad Umbrelloes held over their heads,) Soldiers and Spear-men Two hundred at least, and after these a Row of Palenkeens belonging to English and other Merchants.

At Meals their Domesticks wait on them with Obeisance suitable to great Potentates,Their man­ner of living. enclosing their Tables, which are strewed libe­rally with Dainties served up in Plate of China; Nam nulla aconita bibuntur fictilibus, says Juvenal, which crack when poysoned; which whether true or false (since it is so much practised in this Coun­try by way of Revenge) is but a necessary Caution by all means to avoid.

They fan the Air with Peacocks Tails set in huge Silver Handles, and chiefly now, because the busy Flies would cover the Table, were they not beaten off. Abroad shading their heads with broad Tar­gets held over their heads; washing and rubbing them in their Tanks; wanting in no Office may render them acceptable to their Masters.

But not to detract from the Inhabitants,The Pom­pousness of the Gentues. their Solemnities are ve­ry Courtly, commonly performed by Night with the noise of Drum, Shawm, and Fife; especially at their Weddings, when the meanest (excepting those protested against) of the Gentues must not be denied his Week's Jollity in a Palenkeen, and a Guard of Targets, Swords, and Javelins, and others bearing the Ensigns denoting the Honour of their Tribe. If any of the subjected Tribes (as they count them) assume the Honour (though the Governor connive) they fall together by the ears, and drag him shamefully by the Hair of the Head to the place he first set forth.

They are array'd in White Vests,Their Attire. girt with Sashes, small Turbats on their Heads, long Breeches to their Heels; the Gentues barefoot mostly; The Moors and Persians shod with Sandals, and over their Shoulders a Silk Mantle of what colour they fancy.

The English keep their fashion, though cloathed in white: The Armenians like the Inhabitants.

The Moors are very grave and haughty in their demeanor,The Gravity and Pride of the Moors. not vouchsafing to return an Answer by a Slave, but by a Deubash, who is the Interpreter. Their chiefest Delight and Pride is to be seen [Page 31] smoking Tobacco cross-legg'd in a great Chair at their doors, out of a long Brass Pipe adapted to a large Crystal Hubble-bubble, fixed in a Brass Frame, their Menial Servants surrounding them.

All of this Robe's way of Salute is by lifting their Hand to their Head, except the Armenians, who move their Turbats as we our Hats.

The Moors are by Nature plagued with Jealousy,Their Jealou­sy. cloistring their Wives up, and sequestring them the sight of any besides the Tapon that watches them. When they go abroad, they are carried in close Palenkeens, which if a Man offer to unvail it is present death; the meanest of them not permitting their Women to stir out uncovered; of whom they are allowed as many as they can keep.

Their Matches are contrived by their Parents when young;Strictness to­wards their Women. at Seven Years the Son being taken from the Mother, the Sister from the Brother, and not a Father, though Fourscore and ten, suffered the Interview of his Daughter; every Dwelling having Apartments allotted for this Confinement.

The Gentues observe not that strictness,Contrary Freedom a­mong the Gen­tues. both Sexes enjoying the open Air. Their Women are manacled with Chains of Silver (or Fetters rather) and hung with Ear-rings of Gold and Jewels, their Noses stretch'd with weighty Jewels, on their Toes Rings of Gold, about their Waste a painted Clout, over their Shoulders they cast a Mantle; their Hair tied behind their Head (which both in Men and Women is naturally very long); a-top a Coronet of Gold beset with Stones; compleatly bodied, and so flexible, that they are excellent Dancers, and good at Feats of Activity: I having seen them hold Nine Gilded Balls in play with their Hands and Feet, and the Muscles of their Arms and Legs, a long time together without let­ting them fall: They are clearer complexion'd than the Men.

As for their dealing in the World,Their Crafti­ness and Skill in staining Calicuts. they are well skill'd, and will arithmetize the nicest Fractions without the help of Pen or Ink; much given to Traffick, and intelligent in the way of Merchandize, if not fraudulent; having an accomplishment in the Art of Staining Calicuts here beyond any other place in the East-Indies (for that they are upon washing rather clearer and livelier than at first, and this is it that makes this Port so much frequented) which is paint­ed with the Pencil by little Children as well as elder grown, they stretching the Pieces on the ground, and sitting upon them, run them over with a dexterity and exactness peculiar to themselves.

They are all of them of Disposition timerous,Their fearful disposition. so that Twenty four English-Men armed kept the Bank-Solls against them on a late Demur; and thereupon at the coming in of our Ships they were all packing up to be gone, notwithstanding 200000 Souls receive here their daily Sustenance: And as Tyrannous when they get the uppermost; an instance whereof the Occasion of this Demur pre­sents: For our Factory protecting one of the English Nation from their Fury, who too incautiously had to deal with some of their Wo­men, they set a De-Roy on the Factory (which is a Prohibition in the King's Name for any one to have any thing to do with them till that be taken off) whereby they were debarred Wood and Water, and all other Necessaries, till they had their Revenge on the Aggres­sor, which terminated not till Death had expiated the Fact: For ha­ving [Page 32] intrapped him by deluding Speeches into their merciless Power, they cut him in pieces before the Factory Gate: Whereupon the English drew out some Field-Pieces, and scowred the Streets, when they fled and left the Bank-Solls to their possession, which were not resigned till the De-Roy was taken off, which was not done till within a little of our Arrival; when the thing being fresh, and thinking us not only able by such a Fleet to demand Satisfaction, but resolved so to do, they were all shifting for themselves: According to the true nature of Cowards, who when Peril is far from them, strike all with Lightning; but when it appears on equal terms, pre­sently discover the wonted Paleness of an unsound Virtue.

Of Complexion the Gentues are blacker than the Moors, [...] the Moors than the Persians.

Their executing of Justice in Capital Cases is sudden, [...] in Cases Capital. either cut­ting them in pieces (which for Murder is always begun by the next Relation, who must be both Prosecutor and Executioner, and then seconded by the Rabble) or Impaling them on Stakes.

The punishing of their Great Ones, because not in force in our Western Empires, may deserve to be mentioned.

Upon an Offence they are sent by the King's Order,The Post, and Nature there­of. and commit­ted to a place called the Post (from the Punishment inflicted), where the Master of the Post is acquainted with the heinousness of the Crime; which being understood, he heightens by a Drink, which at first they refuse, made of Bung (the Juice of the intoxicating sort of Hemp), and being mingled with Dutry (the deadliest sort of Sola [...]ium, or Nightshade) named Post, after a Week's taking, they crave more than ever they nauseated. Ad illorum vicem qui de­gustato Sardonum graminum succo feruntur in morte ridere; making them foolishly mad. Then are they brought into the Inner Lodg­ings of the House, in which Folding Doors open upon delicious Gar­dens, where Apes and Cats, Dogs and Monkeys are their Attendants, with whom they maintain their Dialogues, exercising over them their Humour of an Assassin, Usurper, Miser, or what their Genius led them to, whilst themselves. After this manner are they impri­son'd during the King's Pleasure, or he order their Cure, to restore them to their Senses again; which otherwise, after their Spirits are tired by a restless Appetite of doing, and in the mean time have not a suitable recruit, they linger by a lasting Leanness into the Shades, which alive they represented.

As for their Law-Disputes,No Law-Di­sputes long depending. Their Religi­ons. they are soon ended; the Governor hearing, and the Cadi or Judge determining every Morning.

Religions of all Inventions are licens'd. The Moors are Mahome­tans of the Arabian Sect: The Persians as much deluded by Mortis Ali or Hali, accused therefore of Heresy by the Moors. The Na­tives are Idolaters worshiping many Penates or Houshold-Gods, yea, the Devil too for fear: Yet they acknowledge but One Supreme God; and the various Representations or Shapes adored, are but so many different Attributes. After every day's Devotion they dawb their Forheads with Paint, and as Principles of Zeal, abominate eat­ing with any, unless of their own Cast, when they strip and wash themselves before Meals.

[Page 33] They have a due command of their Appetite both as to Time and the Matter they feed on, to wit, Roots, Herbs, Rice, and Cutchery, all manner of Fruits, but nothing that has had Life, or likely to pro­duce Vital Heat, as Eggs, which they will not eat; but they will drink Milk and boil'd Butter, which they call Ghe.

For their Easements both Men and Women keep a set hour, and go with every one a purifying Pot in their hand (for to take up Wa­ter to wash after their occasions) to some Publick Tank or Pond; the Men apart from the Women; neither of them concerned for Passengers, keeping their back-sides towards them till they have done their Business.

Among them all it is common to make water sitting, as when they evacuate the other way; and it is a shame for any one to be seen to do otherwise, they sarcastically saying, Such a one pisses like a Dog (which is held unclean) standing.

Their Doctors of Divinity are the Brachmins, Their Doctors of Divinity, and their Te­nets. who instruct them in their Law, to preserve all Creatures that are beneficial, and teach them the old Pythagorean [...], Transmigration of Souls out of one body into another; as a Tyrant into a Tygre, a Cove­tous Man or Cruel into a Boar, a fearful Man into an Hare, and so on: If they see a Tree twined about with another (as most Bind-Weeds will), they tell you that in this life, when Human, the Soul got into that Tree was a Debtor to the other, and therefore it is held fast by the other. The Soul of a Good Man is believed to depart into a Cow, wherefore 'tis Sacrilege with them to kill a Cow or a Calf; but highly piacular to shoot a Kite, dedicated to the Brach­mins, for which Money will hardly pacify.

Their Religious Worship consists most in washing and purifyings;Their Cere­monies. more of which hereafter.

They marry very young,They marry young. not knowing their Wives though till at riper years they come to consummate their Hymeneal Rites.

Their Language they call generally Gentu: Their Speech. They write on the Leaf of a Cocoe with a sharp Iron Instrument. The peculiar Name of their Speech is Telinga. The Telinga Character.

The Mahometans bury their dead;The Mahome­tans bury, the Gentus burn their dead. the Gentues burn them; and in the Husband's Flames the Wife offers her self a Sacrifice to his Manes, or else she shaves and turns Whore for a Livelihood, none of her Friends looking upon her; hers, not her Husband's Acquaintance, thrusting her upon it; to which end they give her Dutry; when half mad she throws her self into the Fire, and they ready with great Logs keep her in his Funeral Pile.

[Page 34] The Armenians are settled here on account of Trade (whose Hi­story is reserved for a fitter place); they are Christians of a separate Communion.Christian Strangers.

The Portugals, of the Romish Church.

The English, of the Orthodox Episcopacy.

The Dutch, most Calvinists.

The Coin current here is a Pagod, Coin current, and the Com­modities. 8 s.; Dollar, 4 s. 6 d.; Rupee, 2 s. 3 d.; Cash, 1 d. ½; a Cash ¼.

Staple Commodities are Calicuts white and painted, Palempores, Carpets, Tea; Diamonds of both Rocks, the Old and New; Escre­tores, and other Knick-knacks for Ladies, because far-fetch'd and dear-bought.

Beasts they have,Beasts wild and tame. Wild Lions, Leopards, Bears, Boars, Tygers, Antelopes, Spotted Deer.

For Service, Oxen, Buffola's, Camels, Asses which they use for burthen, to carry Packs, Water in great Leathern Sacks about the Town for every Family, and any other Slavery: But their Horses, which are small and hot-mettled, they put to no such drudgery, but use them with all the kindness and fair speeches imaginable.

With these (without disparagement to that Image God has stamp'd on that Enchiridion of his Handywork,Their hang­ing Coaches, and those that carry them. Man) we might recite the Coolies, Duties, and Palenkeen Boys; by the very Hea­thens esteemed a degenerate Offspring of the Holencores; and in earnest (excepting the Shape) they come nigh to Brutes. These are the Machines they journey by: On the Shoulders of the Coolies they load their Provant, and what Moveables necessary. The Du­ties march like Furies, with their lighted Mussals in their hands (they are Pots filled with Oyl in an Iron Hoop, like our Beacons, and set on fire by stinking Rags). Ambling after these a great pace, the Palenkeen-Boys support them; four of them, two at each end of a Bambo, which is a long hollow Cane, thick, light, and strong, arched in the middle (which is done in Cases while it is growing), where hangs the Palenkeen, as big as an ordinary Couch, broad enough to tumble in; cieled with Silk, and Bosses pendent to raise withal, and others at each Corner, as our Coaches have; un­derneath it is laced with strong broad Girts, over which a Quilt, Skin of a Tyger, or Hide to lye upon, and round Pillows of Silk or Velvet, to bolster their Heads. At every Angle turn'd Staves, and overspreading it a Scarlet Coverlet of London Cloath.

A Set of these Rascals, who are eight, in a Week's time with this Load shall run down their choicest Horses; and bait them gene­rously shall stage it a Month together.

For War,Beasts for War and Food. Elephants: For to eat, Sheep, poor, fleeced rather with Hair than Wool, their Aspect bewraying as much Goat as Sheep: Goats; Hogs low and black, unclean to the Mahometans: Cows, sacred to the Gentues, as Serapis to the Egyptians; Conies, Hares.

Reptiles, Reptiles. Snakes, Serpents, the Amphisbena and other kinds; all which they pretend to charm, carrying them up and down in Baskets to get Money of the People, as well as Strangers; when they strike up on a Reed run through a Cocoa-Shell, which makes a noise some­thing like our Bag-Pipes, and the subtle Creatures will listen to the Musick, and observe a Motion correspondent to the Tune; a Gene­ration [Page 35] of Vipers that well deserve to be stiled so, knowing when the Charmer charms wisely.

Fowls of all sort belonging to India are plenty,Fowls. but chiefly tame Geese.

Fishes in abundance,Fishes. from whence the Town derives its Etymo­logy, Mechlapatan signifying the Fish-Town.

For Corn,Corn. they have Rice the Staff of the Land, some Wheat.

Fruits to variety.Fruits.

The Water they drink they dig for;The Water and Air bad. not that they are without Rivers, but they are brackish. It lies in 15 deg. North Lat. 40 min. From the Lizzard 96 deg. East. By reason of the Multitude of Peo­ple and ill Site it is unhealthy; though it agree with the Natives, who live to a good Old Age.

The English for that cause, only at the time of shipping, remove to Medapollon, where they have a wholsome Seat Forty Miles more North.

Rain they have none from November to May, Rain when it comes causes Insects. all which time the Land Breezes (which blow one half the day off the Sea, but faint­ly the other) torment them with a suffocating Heat; so that the Birds of the Air as they fly, often drop down dead, the Wind co­ming as hot as the Steam from an Oven, by the reflecting of the Sun upon the Sands, which are huried about the Marshes. When they feel themselves freest from Sickness, though all Perspiration through the Pores by Sweat is dried up: From the beginning of May they are refreshed with cooling Showers, which at length with the overflowing Sea cause an Inu dation; in which space, the Air growing foggy, Empyema's and Fluxes are rifest; and Swarms of Ants, Muskeetoes, Flies, and stinking Chints, Cimices, &c. breed and infest them: This Season we experimented; which though moderately warm, yet our Bodies broke out into small fiery Pimples (a sign of a prevailing Crasis) augmented by Muskeetoe-Bites, and Chinces rai­sing Blisters on us.

To arm themselves against this Plague, those that live here have fine Calicut-Lawn thrown over their Beds, which though white as Snow when put on, shall be in an hour besmear'd all over, which might be tolerable, did not their daring Buzzes continually alarm, and sometimes more sensibly provoke, though cloath'd with long Breeches to their Toes, and Mufflers on their Hands and Face, and a Servant to keep them from them with a Fan, without which there is no sleeping.

Notwithstanding these provisions, yet there is another Insect more disturbing than these, and not to be escaped but by this Device, and that is the Ant, which creeps up to all their Quarters, and between their Beds, if the Bed-Posts were not set in Pans of Water to hin­der their Progress. Chinces stick among the Cotton, and in rotten Posts, whose bitings wheal most sadly, and if they strive to take a Revenge for that abuse, and chance to squeeze them, they leave a stink enough to choak them.

The Air so bad here,The Air bet­ter up in the Countrey. that it agrees with few new Comers; removing Three Miles up the Countrey it is an infallible Cure for the Diseases of this place, provided it be done in time: [Page 36] Where the English have a Garden for Divertisement; where also is a Burial-place graced with Monuments both of Antique and Mo­dern Workmanship.

Half a Mile beyond,Twelve of the King's E­lephants. a Dozen of the King's Elephants are stabled. When we came they were feeding out of their Houses on Sugar-Canes fresh gathered and administred by their Keepers: Alighting from our Palenkeens, they loosed one which was Fourteen Feet high, and the Black clawing his Poll with an Iron Engine, he stooped down for him to get up, and being upon his Back guided him as he listed. His Body is a Symetrical Deformity (if I may so say); the Hanches and Quarters clapt together seem so many heaps; his Neck short, flapping Ears like Scates, little-Eye'd, a broad Face, from which drops his Proboscis or Trunk, thrusting it out, or shriveling it in, as he chuses; through its Hollow he sucks his Liquor, and with two Fingers, as it were, reaches the Fodder, shaking off the dirt against his Thigh, or Vermin, such as Mice, which he abhors, he brings it under to his Mouth, from whence proceed two huge Tusks of Ivory for Defence, not Mastication, for which he is supplied with­in with others; his Tail is curt: He shuffles an end a great Pace, moving all the Joints of his Legs, though the Motion of his Hinder-Legs imitate Human Progression, having a Patella or Knee-Pan afore, not articulated behind as other four-footed Beasts are. When he stands, his Legs appear so many Columns scollop'd at bottom, being flat-hoof'd.

The She's have their Paps under their Bowels afore, as Laurentius truly relates.

Their Modesty in ingendring has given matter for dispute, though doubtless they perform it after the manner of other Beasts. They are of a Mouse-Colour. With their Trunks they strike a violent Blow, and are taught to sling Iron Links, to the destruction of their Enemies. That they draw their weighty Cannon is certain; but that they engage with smaller on their Back, I am no Eye-Witness.

After a Month's Stay here,Our Repair a­board Ship, and coming to Fort St. George. a Patamar (a Foot-Post) from Fort St. George, made us sensible of the Dutch being gone from thence to Ceilon: The Treasure was reshipped, and we in less than a Week, through contrary Monsoons and Ill Weather (the Sun being in his Zenith, and encountring the Dog-Star over our heads) arrived there.

When sliding by four French Men of War at Anchor under St. Tho­mas (of whom the Admiral the Brittoon was a Ship of 1200 Tuns, 68 Brass Guns; the second had 50 Brass Guns; the other two were less; and the Platform of the City mounted with Brass Pieces, that slung their Shot an incredible way), we against all probability found the Massenberg there,The Massen­berg given o­ver for lost, we found here having ventured alone, and but the day before us came into the Road under our Fort; there also rode two Portugal Junks. The Colours the Fort shewed us, was St. George's Flag; it bore from us one League West, Low-Land: St. Thomas one League and an half South-West, High-Land behind it; North Lat. 12 deg. 30 min. Long. from the Lizard 96 deg. East.

[Page] [Page]

CHAP. V.
Gives a true Narrative of the English,Chap. V. French and Dutch on the Coast of Coromandel, continuing till we double the Cape for the Coast of Malabar.

I Went ashore in a Mussoola, a Boat wherein ten Men paddle, the two aftermost of whom are the Steers-men, using their Paddles instead of a Rudder: The Boat is not strengthned with Knee-Timber, as ours are; the bended Planks are sowed together with Rope-yarn of the Cocoe, and calked with Dammar, (a sort of Rosin taken out of the Sea) so artificially, that it yields to every Ambitious Surf, other­wise we could not get ashore, the Bar knocking in pieces all that are inflexible: Moving towards the Shore, we left St. Thomas, which lies but Three Miles to the South of Maderas, Went ashore in a Boat cal­led a Mussoola. and Fort St. George; in the midway Maderas River in great Rains opens its Mouth into the Sea; having first saluted the Banks of Fort St. George on the West: Towards the Sea the Sand is cast up into a Rampire, from whence the fluid Artillery discharges it self upon us, and we on the Shoulders of the Blacks must force our way through it.

Though we landed wet, the Sand was scalding hot, which made me recollect my steps,Rowed by St. Thomas. and hasten to the Fort. As it looked on the Water, it appeared a Place of good force. The Outwork is walled with Stone a good heighth, thick enough to blunt a Cannon-bullet, kept by half a dozen Ordnance at each side the Water-gate, besides an Halfmoon of Fire-Guns. At both Points are mounted twelve Guns eying the Sea, Maderas, and St. Thomas; under these in a Line stand Pallisadoes, reaching from the Wall to the Sea; and hedge in at least a Mile of ground.Landed, are well wetted at Fort St. George. On the South side they have cut a Ditch a sufficient depth and breadth to prevent scaling the Wall, which is a quarter of a Mile in length afore it meets with a third Point or Ba­stion, facing St. Thomas, and the adjacent Fields; who suffer a De­luge when the Rains descend the Hills. From this Point to the Fourth, where are lodged a Dozen Guns more that grin upon Ma­deras, runs no Wall, but what the Inhabitants compile for their Gardens and Houses planted all along the River parallel with that, that braces the Sea. From the first Point a Curtain is drawn with a Parapet; beneath it are two Gates, and Sally Ports to each for to enter Maderas; over the Gates five Guns run out their Muzzels, and two more within them on the Ground.

Over all these the Fort it self lifts up its Four Turrets,The Fort de­scribed. every Point of which is loaded with Ten Guns alike: On the South-East Point is fixed the Standard; the Forms of the Bastions are Square, send­ing forth Curtains fringed with Battlements from one to the other; in whose Interstitiums whole Culverin are traversed. The Gover­nor's House in the middle overlooks all, slanting diagonally with the Court. Entring the Garrison at the Out-gate towards the Sea, a Path of broad polished Stones spreads the way to pass the Second [Page 38] Guard into the Fort at an humble Gate; opposite to this, one more stately fronts the High-street; on both sides thereof is a Court of Guard, from whence, for every day's Duty, are taken Two hundred Men: There being in pay for the Honourable East India Company of English and Portuguez 700. reckoning the Montrosses and Gun­ners.

The Streets are sweet and clean,Neat Dwel­lings. ranked with fine Mansions, of no extraordininary Height (because a Garrison-Town) though Beauty, which they conciliate, by the Battlements and Tarras Walks on every House, and Rows of Trees before their Doors, whose Italian Porticos make no ordinary conveyance into their Houses, built with Brick and Stone.

Edifices of common note are none,The Portugals have a Chap­pel. except a small Chappel the Portugals are admitted to say Mass in.

Take the Town in its exact proportion, and it is Oblong.

The true Possessors of it are the English, The English Masters of that Place. instated therein by one of their Naiks, or Prince of the Gentues, 90 years ago, 40 years before their total subjection to the Moors; who likewise have since ratified it by a Patent from Gulconda, only paying 7000 Pagods yearly for Royalties and Customs, that raises the Mony fourfold to the Company;Sir William Langham Agent. whose Agent here is Sir William Langham, a Gentle­man of Indefatigable Industry and Worth. He is Superintendent over all the Factories on the Coast of Coromandel, as far as the Bay of Bengala, and up Huygly River (which is one of the Falls of Ganges) Viz. Fort St. George alias Maderas, Pettipolee, Mechlapatan, Gun­dore, Medap [...]llon, Balisore, Bengala, Huygly, Castle Buzzar, Pattanaw. He has his Mint, and Privilege of Coining; the Country Stamp is only a Fanam, which is 3 d. of Gold; and their Cash, twenty of which go to a Fanam. Moreover he has his Justiciaries; to give Sentence, but not on Life and Death to the King's Liege People of England; though over the rest they may. His Personal Guard con­sists of 3 or 400 Blacks; besides a Band of 1500 Men ready on Sum­mons: He never goes abroad without Fifes, Drums, Trumpets, and a Flag with two Balls in a Red Field; accompanied with his Council and Factors on Horseback, with their Ladies in Palenkeens.

The English here are Protestants,Diligence of the Fryers. the Portugals Papists, who have their several Orders of Fryers; who, to give them their due, com­pass Sea and Land to make Proselytes, many of the Natives being brought in by them.

The number of English here may amount to Three hundred;Number of English and Portugals. of Portuguez as many Thousand, who made Fort St. George their Re­fuge, when they were routed from St. Thomas by the Moors about ten years past, and have ever since lived under protection of the English.

Thus have you the Limits and Condition of the English Town: Let us now pass the Pale to the Heathen Town, only parted by a wide Parrade, which is used for a Buzzar, or Mercate-place.

CHAP. VI.
Views the Malabar and Canatick Coasts up to Bombaim.

TO prevent the mischief of ingulphing again by the Current,A dark Night enlighten'd by Fish. we anchored a-nights; when a Pitchy Blackness was inter­posed betwixt us and the Skies, and not a Star to be seen: The Plebs Squammosa beneath the Surface of the Salt Ocean, gathering their little Fry (which proved to be Pilchards), either by the Repercus­sion of the Saline Bodies of the Waves, which is frequent, or by the more apt Position of their Glittering Scales, through that Me­dium to refract the hovering Light benighted in the Atmosphere, dispersed a Lustre as bright as Day; insomuch that a small Print might easily be read by it.

Taking advantage of the Land-Breezes and the Tides,The Dutch grasp at all the Spice-Trade. we scud­ded along the Shore, which was Woody, and well stock'd with Trees, the Ground even for many Leagues together; the Moun­tains peeping up behind a great way in the Country.

Being against Carnopoly, a Portugal Friar boarded us: It is some Miles to the North of Caulam, formerly inhabited by the Portugals, and from them taken by the Dutch, who have built a Castle there, and Lord it over the Natives, so that at Carnopoly the Dutch exact Custom for all the Goods they carry off to Sea, though there live but one Boy and two Dutchmen. The Portugals have only Five Per­sons here. The English had also a Factory for Pepper, but they are gone both from hence and Pureat, 20 Miles more North; the Cause [Page]

[Page] [Page 51] we are unacquainted with,Chap. VI. but believe the Dutch will leave nothing unattempted, to engross the Spice-Trade; for none has escaped them but this of Pepper; Cinamon, Cloves, Mace, and Nutmegs, being wholly theirs; and by the Measures they follow, this also in time must fall into their hands.

Nor indeed are Pretensions wanting,How far 'tis possible. they holding here their Right by Conquest (a fairer Claim than undermining), they boast­ing they have in a manner subdued the Natives; which is no hard matter, since this Region of Malabar (in which general Name I reckon as far South as the Land's End, and Phalapatan North) is divided into several Petit Signiories, or Arch-Rebels against the Za­merhin of Calicut, only paying some slight Acknowledgments of his Supremacy, as their Chief Bishop, and joining with him against the Great Mogul; else striving to supplant each other; having a Govern­ment most like Aristocracy of any in the East, each State having a Representative, and he to act according to the Votes of the Nairos Gentry in full Assembly; which as they interfere with one anothers Interests, the weakest have always been ready to call in help: For which reason the Dutch were first permitted to rear Castles to secure the Sea-Coasts; which they have made so good use of, as to bring them under their Yoke; the Great Mogul not discouraging them in the least.

Keeping on our Course we left Cochin to the Southward, Cochin. once a fa­mous Mart of the Portugals, since wrested from them, and made impregnable by the Dutch.

At this place we bad adieu to all our bad Weather,Left the Bad Weather, but not the Dutch Practices. though not to the Practices of the Dutch, who had prevented the English at Panana also; so that here neither being any Pepper, we had nothing else to do but hoist Sails for Tanore, where we touched the first of No­vember, the Natives having hardly shaken off the fear of the Dutch: For a Boat with Sails of Mats (all their small Boats making them their Sails) came to take a Survey of us, and made towards us un­certainly; when after several Fetches to and again, at last they were within Call of us: We saw two Sumbrero's (a Mark for some of Quality) held up in the Boat-stern, and a Man stand up and wave his Hat, which made our Master stretch his Throat to know what he was; whereupon down went the Sumbrero's held up in the Boat­stern, the Boat cleverly tacked, and the Men tugged stoutly at their Paddles, and we as roundly sent seven Shot after them, and the Lon­don as many; but they were more scar'd than hurt; for after we had mann'd three Boats after them, they return'd with their Labour for their Pains, the Boat getting safe from them. At Night another Boat with an Englishman came to ask what Ships we were: Whom when we answered English, he boarded us, and told us our unadvised Salutes were level'd at an English Merchant sent off by the Chief, who not­withstanding he presented two Pistols at the Breasts of the Boatmen, could not beat out of them the suspicion they were possessed with of our being Dutch: Which shews how strangely they are awed by them; and the rather, they being solicitous Blazers of their own good For­tune upon us, and our Defeat by them; which they had taken care to publish, to bring us into Disrepute, which commonly waits on Ill Success, before we could come to tell our own Tale.

[Page 52] At our arriving ashore the Natives flocked about us, and gazed upon us as if they would have stared us through;Went ashore at Tanore. amidst a Lane of whom we were ushered by a few Portugals to their Chappel, at the Door whereof stood the Padre to receive us, and through it to con­duct us to his House.

From whence I went to observe the Town,Their Wares. which is miserably poor and straggling, though in the heart of it a double Row of Cot­tages opened their Shops of Wares, which consisted of Pepper, Tur­merick, Ginger, Cassia Lignum, the lesser Cardamoms, Bunco, i. e. Tobacco, and Hubble-bubble Canes, the Product of this Coast, as are also Beetle-Nuts the greatest Gain from this place to Surat, to be reaped by them.

Amongst whom were Shroffs, or Money-changers. On one side in a square place was their Fish-Market, through which we came into another Lane, at whose end there was a Mosque.

Their Houses are little Hovels or Hogsties,Their Houses mean. the best of them scarce worthy the Name of a Booth. The English House is in the fashion with the rest, covered all over with Cajans, and seated (which they mightily affect) under Trees. The People are Tawny, not Black. Their Language Malabar. Here is a Specimen of their Character.

They are subject to the Zamerhin of Calicut, Malabar Cha­racter. who sent hither his Delegate to welcome us, and invite us to a Continuance of Trade: He gave our Fleet seven Guns, which were planted near the Water­side; which Compliment was returned by the Fleet.

The Nation is distinguished by Three Ranks.Their Nation how distin­guished. The Priests make the first; they come abroad in several distracted Postures, sometimes all naked, plaister'd over with Ashes, their Hair plaited like an Horse's Tail; at other times appearing less barbarous, being cover­ed, but as Stoical in their Behaviour.

The second Form is that of the Nobiles, The Nairo's. who are all bred Soldiers, and therefore called Nairo's; the one part of them wearing naked Swords rampant in one hand, and a Target made of a Buffola's Hide lacquer'd and curiously painted in the other, with which they defend themselves as assuredly as with an Iron Shield; the rest of them walk with a spiked Lance barbed, as long as a Javelin, and poised at the But end with Lead; at darting of which they are very expert.

The last and lowest are the Artizans and Tillers of the Earth,The Husband­men. of which here are no great store, being ever negligent in that they reap the least Benefit by; wherefore their Vassals are commonly employed in that service, they being Drudges both to their Masters and Prince, who here as in all India is sole Proprietor of Lands; allowing the Oc­cupiers no more than a bare Subsistence, and not that when a bad Year fills not the Publick Granaries; drubbing the poor Hinds till their [Page 53] Bones rattle in their Skins, they being forced often to sell their Chil­dren for Rice, which is the best here on this Coast of any place else in the whole World.

In Habit they excel not one another;Their Men how clad. the Peer as well as Peasant, wrapping only a Lunga about his Middle, and thence reaching to his Knees. Only their Men of Honour that have deserved it from the Zamerhin, have their Wrists rounded with thick golden Bracelets, illustrated with Precious Stones.

Their Women are nearer white than the Men,Their Wo­men. of an Olive or Sallow Colour, cloathed as they on Coromandel, stretching their Ears with Gold and Gems.

In Manners the Natives are slovenly enough,Manners and Religion. if not brutish. In Religion most Heathens, though the Infection of Mahometism is con­tagious among them.

They have Hospitals here for Cows;Hospitals for Cows. and are charitable to Dogs, providing for them abroad, but not suffer them to defile them with­in Doors; being more merciful to Beasts than Men.

Of Christians here are not an inconsiderable number.St. Thomas Christians. Here are also those Elephant-Legged St. Thomeans, which the unbiassed Enquirers will tell you chances to them two ways: By the Venom of a cer­tain Snake, for which the Jangies or Pilgrims furnish them with a Factitious Stone (which we call a Snake-stone) and is a Counter­poyson to all deadly Bites; if it stick, it attracts the Poyson; and put it into Milk, it recovers it self again, leaving its virulency there­in, discovered by its Greenness: As also by drinking bad Water (to which, as we to the Air, they attribute all Diseases) when they tra­vel over the Sands, and then lying down when they are hot, till the Earth at Night is in a cold sweat, which penetrating the rarified Cuticle, fixes the Humours by intercepting their free concourse on that side, not to be remedied by any Panacea of their Esculapian Sectators; it is not much unlike the Elephantiasis Arabum.

Their Coins are of Gold;Coins Cur­rent. a St. Thomas, 10 s. a Fanam, 7 and ½ of which go to a Dollar, or Petacha: These are Gold. Of Copper, a Buserook, 20 of which make a Fanam.

The Country is inticing and beautiful,The Pepper. Woody in the Plain, up the Country Mountainous, where grows the Pepper: It is a Berry that is brought forth by a Bind-weed, wedded to a Tree, which it hugs as affectionately as the Ivy does the Oak; it is first Green, when dried it is black, and husked white: Long Pepper grows on a Shrub leaved and stalked like our Privet.

Their other Trees and Fruits are common with the rest of India; Rice is their chief Grain.

Beasts and Fowls, Tame and Wild, are not scarce.

The first Blackamore Pullen I ever saw,Blackamore Pullen. were here; the outward Skin was a perfect Negro, the Bones also being as black as Jet; un­der the Skin nothing could be whiter than the Flesh, more tender, or more grateful.

After two Nights cold and disquieted Lodging on the GroundIntensely cold Anighrs. (though under covert of the English House) and an Hellish Consort of Jackalls (a kind of Fox), with the Natives singing and roaring all Night long; being drunk with Toddy, the Wine of the Cocoe: I was desirous to go Aboard; when, it being Evening, the Sea Breezes [Page 54] began to drive the Waves with a great surf upon the Shore; insomuch that our Men could not carry me to the Pinnace, riding at the Grap­ling without; wherefore hiring a Canoo, the Blacks played the Cha­ron, and I narrowly escaped with my Life (being overset); finding by sad Experience, that Cold Nights affect even in these Hot Coun­tries, as sensibly as under the Frozen Bear: Leaving off to wonder at the Natives quivering and quaking after Sun-set, wrapping them­selves in a Comby, or Hair-cloath, and the better sort with Quilts, and making good Fires: For being well drenched in the Sea, the Wind blowing very high, I was almost nummed to death before I could reach the Ship. The reason of this Coolness anights is because the Rains have lately cooled the Air as well as Earth, which also may be ascribed to the Sun's Ecliptick distance, as well as the length of the Nights, which are but little longer than the Days; but chiefly to the soaking Mists bedewing the Earth after Sun-set.

Tanore lies in 10 deg.Latitude of Tanore. 30 min. North Latitude.

Having taken in what Bales of Pepper this Place afforded; we weighed by Two in the Morning, and by Four in the Afternoon An­chored against that Anciently Traded Port of Calicut, in the Lati­tude of 11 deg. 30 min. North.

CHAP. I.
Mentions the Island and its Possessors.

BY the Falcon (in which Ship I am now taking my Passage to Surat) I received at once the News of your good health,Chap. I. and that welcome one of Peace with Holland; the first I embrace as a Friend, the other I congratulate with all good Men.

CHAP. II.
Is a Survey of the Island of Canorein near Bombaim.

UPON these scores it was not long before I was employed to wait on the Father Superior of the North, The Superior of the Jesuits, a Learned Man, and a Spaniard by Nation, of the Order of the Jesuits.

The President commanded his own Baloon (a Barge of State,Compliment­ed. of Two and twenty Oars) to attend me and one of the Council, to compliment the Father on the Island of Canorein, parted from Bom­baim by a Stream half a Mile broad: Near our Landing-place stood a College, not inferior to the Building, nor much unlike those of our Universities, belonging to the Jesuits here, more commonly called Paulistines (whose Visitor was now my Patient), who live here ve­ry sumptuously, the greatest part of the Island being theirs. Our Entertainment was truly Noble, and becoming the Gravity of the Society. After I had done my Duty, the Fathers accompanied us to the Barge; afore the College-Gate stood a large Cross, thwack'd full of young Blacks singing Vespers: The Town is large, the Houses tiled; it is called Bandora.

[Page 71] At our department they gave us Seven Guns, which they have planted on the Front of their College for their own Defence,Their Con­vents serve for Castles. besides they are fitted with good store of Small Arms: Following therein the Advice given by a Statesman to the King of Spain, about the Netherlands; That if the Society of the Loyolists were multiplied, their Convents might serve for Castles.

In the middle of the River we had a pleasant Prospect on both sides;A fine Pro­spect on the Water. on Bandora side, the College, the Town, the Church of St. Andrew a Mile beyond, and upon the Hill that pointed to the Sea, the Aquada, Blockhouse, and a Church; on the other side, the Church of Maijm, with other handsome Buildings.

Curiosity led me a second time to visit the Island Canorein, A Journey of Pleasure: And Civility of the Jesuits. having obtained leave for a longer Stay; nor went I alone, some of the best Quality on the Island being led by the same desire, joining themselves with me: We carried a Train of Servants, Horses, and Palenkeens, which were ferried over before us; and we coming soon after, were met by the Fraternity, and conducted to the Fathers, who detained us till Afternoon by a stately Banquet, shewing us the Civility of the Church and College, diverting us both with Instrumental and Vocal Musick, and very good Wine.

After which we were dismiss'd, and four Mile off Bandora were stopp'd by the Kindness of the Padre-Superior, whose Mandate whereever we came caused them to send his Recarders (a Term of Congratulation, as we say, Our Service) with the Presents of the best Fruits and Wines, and whatever we wanted.

Here,Delightful Aldeas. not adjoining to any Town, in a sweet Air, stood a Magni­ficent Rural Church; in the way to which, and indeed all up and down this Island, are pleasant Aldeas, or Country Seats of the Gentry; where they live like Petty Monarchs, all that is born on the Ground being theirs, holding them in a perfect state of Villainage, they being Lords Paramount.

From hence,Magatana, a Country Seat. when we had baited, the same Night we travelled easily to Magatana, using our Fowling-Pieces all the way, being here presented with Rich Game, as Peacocks, Doves, and Pigeons, Chitrels, or Spotted Deer.

When we came to the Town, two several Churches strove to re­ceive us; but having some Acquaintance with the Father of the one, and not with the other, we excused our selves to the latter, and took up with our Friend. As soon as we came in, the Servitors fetch'd us warm Water to wash our Feet, which was very refreshing; it put me in mind of Lot's Courtesy to the Angels. After this, as a piece of extraordinary Civility, they shewed us the Necessary House; and it is so in a Countrey where Fluxes are so common; and for that rea­son it is kept as neat as their Lodging Rooms, having Water to wa [...]h after you have used a clean Towel hung there for that purpose.

This Night we fared very well. Next Morn before Break of Day we directed our Steps to the anciently fam'd, but now ruin'd City of Canorein; the way to it is so delightsome, I thought I had been in England; sine Arable, Pasture, and Coppices; thus we passed Five Mile to the Foor of the Hill on which the City stands, and had passed half a Mile through a thick Wood, peopled by Apes, Tygers, wild Buffolo's, and Jackalls; here were some Flocks of Parockets: [Page 72] When we alighted, the Sun began to mount the Horizon over the Hills, and under our Feet, as if he had newly bathed his fiery Cour­sers, there appeared the Mouth of a Tank, or Aqueduct, out of a Rock, whose steaming Breath was very hot, but water cold: From hence it is thought the whole City to be supplied with water; for as we ascend, we find such Places, where convenient, filled with Lim­pid Water, not over-matched in India: If it be so, (as I know not how to contradict it) that it should have its Current upwards through the hard Rocks artificially cut, the World cannot parallel so wonderful a Water-course!

From hence the Passage is uneasy and inaccessible for more than two abreast,The City of Canorein, for­merly [...]n Hea­then Fane. till we come to the City, all cut out of a Rock; where is presented Vulcan's Forge, supported by two mighty Colosses, bel­lied in the middle with two Globes. Next a Temple with a beauti­ful Frontispiece not unlike the Portuco of St. Paul's West Gate: With­in the Porch on each side stand Two Monstrous Giants, where two Lesser and one Great Gate give a noble Entrance; it can receive no Light but at the Doors and Windows of the Porch, whereby it looks more solemnly; the Roof is Arched, seeming to be born up by huge Pillars of the same Rock, some Round, some Square, 34 in number. The Cornish Work of Elephants, Horses, Lions; at the upper end it rounds like a Bow; near where stands a great Offertory somewhat Oval, the Body of it without Pillars, they only making a narrow Piatzo about, leaving the Nave open: It may be an 100 Feet in Length, in Height 60 Feet or more.

Beyond this, by the same Mole-like Industry, was worked out a Court of Judicature (as those going to shew it will needs give Names) or Place of Audience, 50 Feet square, all bestuck with Imagery, well Engraven according to old Sculpture. On the Side, over against the Door, sate one Superintendent, to whom the Brachmin went with us, paid great Reverence, not speaking of him without a token of worship; whom he called Jougy, or the Holy Man; under this the way being made into handsome Marble Steps, are the King's Stables, not different from the Fashion of our Noblemens Stables, only at the head of every Stall seems to be a Dormitory, or Place for Devotion, with Images, which gave occasion to doubt if ever for that End; or rather made for an Heathen Seminary of Devotes, and these their Cells or Chappels, and the open Place their Common Hall or School: More aloft stood the King's Palace, large, stately and magnificent, surrounded with lesser of the Nobility.

To see all,Reported to be dug out of the Rocks by Alexander. would require a Month's time; but that we might see as much as could be in our allotted time, we got upon the highest part of the Mountain, where we feasted our Eyes with innumerable Entrances of these Cony-burrows, but could not see one quarter part. Whose Labour this should be, or for what purpose, is out of memory; but this Place by the Gentiles is much adored: Some con­tend for Alexander; and as a proof, think they have said enough, when it is received by Tradition, that a great Gap out of a solid Rock was cut by him to make this an Island: But this is contradi­ctory to the Story delivered of Alexander, That he sailed up Indus, and encountred King Porus, of whom some little Remains may be collected, they speaking of that King by the Name of Por in Cam­baia, [Page 73] where Alexander landed with his Army;Chap. III. and followed the Course of Indus, directly contrary to this Place, that lying North-East, this South from thence; nor do we read his stay in India was so long, to atchieve such Acts as these, this Place being not the only Instance of this nature; but more probable to be an Heathen Fane, or Idolatrous Pagod, from the Superstitious Opinion they still hold of its Sacredness: Wherefore the Portugals, who are now Masters of it, strive to erace the remainders of this Herculean Work, that it may sink into the oblivion of its Founders.

Returning to Magatana, we spent some days in riding about the Country, which we found every-where provided with Churches.

The Chief City of this Island is Tanaw: Tanaw the Chief Place. In which are Seven Churches and Colleges, the chiefest one of the Paulistines; the Houses Tiled, but low: Here are made good Stuffs of Silk and Cotton.

There is another great Town called Mein, Mein a great Town. where is a Castle and some Soldiers, towards the Sea; over-against Baçein there is another Fort and Aquada.

The Portugals suffer none but Christians here:Happiness of the Soil. It has no Rivers, but only Inlets of the Sea; but good Springs from the Rocks; the Ground excellently fertile, either of it self, or by the care of the Inhabitants; that it yields as good Cabbages, Coleworts, and bet­ter Rhadishes than ever I yet saw: Besides Garden-Fruit, here are incomparable Water-Melons, and Onions as sweet, and as well tasted as an Apple; and for the natural growth of the Soil, it is known not only to supply the adjoining Islands, but Goa also. It is more than 20 Miles in Length, and 70 in Circumference.

CHAP. III.
A Visit to Baçein, a Portugal City in India; our return by Elephanto, and the Putachos, with Observations on the Island Bombaim.

THE several Capitaneos of the Portugals are Triennial, The Capita­neos of the Portugals Al­ternate. which are the Alternate Governments entailed on the Families of the Conquerors, and therefore made Circular; every one in his course having his turn to rule in some Place or other for Three Years, and upon these they can borrow or take up Mony as certain as upon their Hereditary Estates, the next Incumbent being Secu­rity for the payment: Pursuant to this, a new Governour coming to Choul, his Honour the President sent to congratulate him; and the Admiral of the North coming to Baçein, another was sent on the same Message.

Nor could the hot Months be over, before John de Mendos, of a Noble Family, sent for me to Baçein for the cure of his only Daughter, illustriously born, handsome, and on the point of [Page 74] Marriage with the Admiral of the North, though not full Twelve years old.

Leaving Bombaim, A Message to Baçein. at this time of the year, we could go either within or without; but the first being related to be pleasantest, I chose that way; sailing by Trumbay, where we receive Custom, we might see a comely Church and Ald [...]: At Noon we reached Tanaw: Having gained our Passage over the Flats, we made no stay, but rowed streight to Baçein; every half Mile we were presented with fresh Prospects of delicate Country-Mansions; two of which of spe­cial note draw the Eyes of the Beholders; one of John de Melos, three Mile off Tanaw, it standing high, curiously built, has a Tarras Descent with Walks and Gardens half a Mile, till it lead to a spacious Banquetting-house over the Water, with Stone-stairs for Landing: Beyond it a Mile, on the side of an Hill, stands Grebondel, a large neat built Town of Martin Alphonso's; and at top of all, his House, Fort and Church, of as stately Architecture as India can afford; he be­ing the Richest Don on this side Goa. Here we are Land-locked by the Gut, which is fabled to be made by Alexander; from which we have an open passage to Baçein, it lying bare towards the Sea.

CHAP. IV.
A Narrative of an Embassy to Seva Gi, and Journey to Rairee, the Court of the Rajah.

THE Ambassador having received Instructions, and got all things ready for his Journey, embark'd on a Bombaim Shebar (together with two English Factors, who were appointed by the Honourable the President to accompany him); and about Nine a Clock at Night arrived at Choul, a Portugal City on the Main, into which he could not enter, the Gates being shut up, and Watch set; so that they passed this Night in the Suburbs, in a small Church called St. Sebastians; and the next day about Three in the After­noon receiving Advice that Seva Gi was returned to Rairee from Chiblone, departed thence to Upper Choul, a Town belonging to the Rajah, about two Miles distant from the Portugal City; and was in former time a great Mart of all sorts of Duccan Commodities; but now totally ruined by the late Wars betwixt the Mogul and Seva Gi, whose Arms have plundered and laid it waste.

The Subidar of this Town being a Person of Quality,How the Subi­dar is created. who com­mands the Countries opposite to Bombaim, as Magatan, Penn, and Tull, he thought good to give him a Visit, and to present him with a couple of Pamerins; and the rather, because he understood by the Linguist Naran Sinaij, he had some Aversion to our Nation, and might hinder our Proceedings at Court; from which he was willing to take him off by all fair means: He received the Visit kindly, and promised all Courtesy that lay in his Power to perform; and after some immaterial Discourse they returned to their Tents.

The Day following they took Boat,Proceed on their Journey. and sailed up Choul River, to a Town called Esthemy, six Leagues distance from Choul, where they staid till next day; and set forth about six in the Morn from Esthemy, and about Sun-set pitched their Tent in a Plain, six Miles short of Nishampore, where they stayed about an hour to refresh their Coolies, [Page 78] and then set forward for Nishampore, and at Nine passing by Ni­shampore, arrived next Morning at Gongouly, a little Villag [...] situated on the Bank of a pleasant Rivulet; from whence in a fair Day may be discerned the Castle of Rairee: The day after they proceeded on their Journy to Rairee, and about Nine of the Clock in the Evening came to Puncharra, a Town at the Foot of the Hill, where they un­derstood that Seva Gi was departed thence to Purtaabgur, to visit the Shrine of Bowany, a Pagod of great esteem with him, and celebrated some Ceremonies there in order to his Coronation; having carried with him several Presents, and among the rest a Lumbrico of pure Gold, weighing about one Maund and a quarter, which is Forty two Pounds, which he hath dedicated to the said Pagod.

In the interim,Seva Gi gone a Pilgrimage. understanding they could not be admitted into the Castle till Seva Gi's return, they pitched their Tent inthe Plain; and in order to their more speedy dispatch, make their Business known to their Procurator Narun Gi Pundit (whose reception was very kind) and delivered him his Honour's Letters; shewing him the several Presents they brought for the Rajah, and Ministers of State; of which he highly approved, and promised them to help them to the Rajah's presence, as soon as conveniently he could after his return from Pil­grimage to Purtaabgur: And bad them rest content, that his Endea­vours should be totally employed in the Honourable Company's In­terest, and procuring them a speedy dispatch: for which having ren­dered him Thanks, he presented him with the Articles which they brought for the Rajah to sign, translated into Moratty Language; which he said he would peruse, and then give his judgment of them. He then took occasion to discourse with him concerning the Conclu­sion of a Peace betwixt the Rajah and the Syddy of Banda Rajapore; urging many Arguments to create in him a belief it would be for the Rajah's advantage, but he would not be persuaded it was for his Ma­s [...]er's Interest to raise a Siege which had cost him so much Blood and Treasure; especially now he hath such hopes of gaining the Place: And therefore told them, it would be in vain to move it to the Rajah, who was resolved to take in the Castle, let it cost him what it will: And to that effect was daily sending down more Ordnance, Ammu­nition, Men and Money.

Our Ambassador replied, The President had no other Design in making this motion, than that of a good Neighbour; having ob­served the Miseries each Party endured, and the general obstruction of Trade, occasioned by the War; but since he desired him to desist mentioning it to the Rajah, he should not trouble him therewith; but what was more consistent with our own and his Interest; which was the encouraging Trade and Merchandise in his Country, and opening the ways to Baligaot, that Merchants might with safety bring down their Goods to Port; which would be much to the Rajah's Profit, and encrease of his Treasury: And this he recommended to his Pru­dence to persuade the Rajah thereto; who being a Soldier from his Infancy, its possible minded not such concerns.

To which he answered,The Offici­ousn [...]s [...] of a Chief Mini­ster of State to the English. That he doubted not but it would be ef­fected in a short time; for that the King of Visiapour, who is Owner of those Countries (from whence most sorts of Wares come) being weary of Wars with his Master, had sent several Embassies to con­conclude [Page 79] a peace with him; which he thought would be made up in two or three Months, and then the Ways would be free, and the Merchants have Egress and Regress as formerly. That the Rajah, after his Coronation, would act more like a Prince, by taking care of his Subjects, and endeavouring the advancement of Commerce in his Dominions; which he could not attend before, being in perpe­tual War with the Great M [...]gul, and King of Visiapour. This is the Substance of his Discourse with Narun Gi Pundit, who seemed to him to be a Man of Prudence and Esteem with his Master: So after a lit­tle sitting he took his leave of him, having first presented him with a Diamond Ring, for which he expressed a liking; and his Eldest Son a Couple of Pamerins, which are fine Mantles.

They continuing under their Tent,Who procu­red their pass up to the Ca­stle. found it very hot and incom­modious; wherefore they were glad when they heard the Rajah was returned from Purtaabgur, when the Ambassadour sollicited Narun Gi Pundit to procure his leave to pass up the Hill into Rairee Castle: The next day they receiv'd order to ascend the Hill into the Castle, the Rajah having appointed an House for them; which they did; leaving Puncharra about Three in the Afternoon, they arrived at the top of that strong Mountain, forsaking the humble Clouds about Sun-set.

It is fortified by Nature more than Art,Rairce a strong Hill. being of very difficult access, there being but one Avenue to it, which is guarded by two narrow Gates, and fortified by a strong Wall exceeding high, and Bastions thereto: All the other part of the Mountain is a direct Pre­cipice; so that it's impregnable, except the Treachery of some in it betray it. On the Mountain are many strong Buildings, as the Ra­jah's Court, and Houses of other Ministers, to the number of about 300. It is in length about two Miles and an half, but no pleasant Trees, or any sort of Grain grows thereon. Their House was about a Mile from the Rajah's Palace, into which they retired with no lit­tle content.

Four days after their ascent,The English have Audi­ence of Seva Gi. by the sollicitation of Narun Gi Pun­dit, the Rajah gave them Audience, though busily imployed by ma­ny other great Affairs, relating to his Coronation and Marriage. Our Ambassador presented him, and his Son Samba Gi Rajah, with the Particulars appointed for them; which they took well satisfied with them; and the Rajah assured them we might trade securely in all his Countries without the least apprehension of Ill from him, for that the Peace was concluded. Our Ambassadour replied, that was our Intent; and to that intent the President had sent him to this Court to procure the same Articles and Privileges we enjoyed in Indostan and Persia, where we traded. He answered, it is well, and referred our Business to Moro Pundit his Peshua, or Chancellour, to examine our Articles, and give an account what they were. He and his Son withdrew into their private Apartments, to consult with the Brach­mines about the Ceremonies preparatory to his Enstalment; which chiefly consisted in Abstinence and Purifying; till which be over, he will hear no farther of Business. They likewise departed to their Lodgings.

A day or two after our Ambassador went to Narun Gi Pundit, What Pre­sents were made. and took his Advice concerning the presenting of the rest; who told him [Page 80] he might go in Person to Moro Pundit, but to the rest he should send by Naran Sinaij what was intended for them: Declaring likewise if he would have his Work speedily effected, and without any impedi­ment, that it was necessary to be at some more charge to present Offi­cers with Pamerins, who were not in their List of Presents; to which he assented, considering the time of the Year was so far spent, and that if he should be forced to stay the whole Rains out at Rairee, the Honourable Company's Charges would be greater than the Additio­nal Presents: He answered that two Pamerins were not enough for Moro Pundit, that we must present him with four; and Peta Gi Pun­dit Vocanovice, or Publick Intelligencer, with the Diamond Ring, valued at 125 Rupees.

• The Dehir, or Persian Escrivan, with Four Pamerins.
• Sam Gi Nayne, Keeper of the Seal, with Four.
• Ab Gi Pundit Four.

And then he should not doubt of a speedy Conclusion; otherwise they would raise Objections on purpose to impede the Negotiation. For every Officer in Court expected something according to their De­gree and Charge.

About this time the Rajah, Rajah, Seva Gi weighed in Gold. according to the Hindu Custom, was weighed in Gold, and poised about 16000 Pagods, which Money, together with an 100000 more is to be distributed among the Brach­mines after the day he is enthroned, who in great numbers flock hi­ther from all parts of his Territories.

Being earnest to press on his Errand he came for,Grants the Request of the English. the Ambassador sent to Narun Gi Pundit to know what was transacted in the Articles; but was returned for Answer, The Rajah stopt his Ears to all Af­fairs, declaring he had granted all the Demands, except those two Articles, expressing, Our Money shall go current in his Dominions, and his on Bombaim; and that he shall restore whatever Wrecks may happen on his Coasts belonging to the English, and Inhabitants of Bombaim: The first he accounted unnecessary to be inserted, because he forbids not the passing of any manner of Coins; nor on the other side, can he force his Subjects to take those Monies whereby they shall be Losers; but if our Coin be as fine an Allay, and as weighty as the Mogul's, and other Princes, he will not prohibit it. To the other he says, that it is against the Laws of Conchon to restore any Ships, Vessels, or Goods, that are driven ashore by Tempest, or otherwise; and that should he grant us that Privilege, the French, Dutch, and other Merchants, would claim the same Right; which he could not grant without breaking a Custom has lasted many Ages: The rest of our Desires he willingly conceded, embracing with much satisfaction our Friendship, promising to himself and Country much Happiness by our Settlement and Trade: Notwithstanding Narun Gi Pundit did not altogether despair of obtaining our Wrecks, because we enjoyed the same Privilege in the Mogul, and Duccan Country.

Near a Month after they had been here,The Ambas­sador sum­moned to the Coronation. Narun Gi Pundit sent word, That to Morrow about Seven or Eight in the Morning, the Rajah Seva Gi intended to ascend his Throne; and he would take it kindly if they came to congratulate him thereon; that it was neces­sary to present him with some small thing, it not being the Custom [Page 81] of the Eastern Parts to appear before a Prince empty-handed. The Ambassador sent him word, according to his Advice he would wait on the Rajah at the prescribed time.

According next Morning he and his Retinue went to Court,Accordingly he attends. and found the Rajah seated on a Magnificent Throne, and all his No­bles waiting on him in Rich Attire; his Son Samba Gi Rajah, Peshuah, Mora Pundit, and a Brachmin of great Eminence, seated on an Ascent under the Throne; the rest, as well Officers of the Army as others, standing with great Respect. The English made their Obeisance at a di­stance, and Narun Sinai held up the Diamond Ring that was to be pre­sented him: He presently took notice of it, and ordered their coming nearer, even to the Foot of the Throne, where being Vested, they were desired to retire; which they did not so soon, but they took notice on each side of the Throne there hung (according to the Moors manner) on heads of Gilded Launces many Emblems of Dominion and Government; as on the Right-hand were two great Fishes Heads of Gold, with very large Teeth; on the Left, several Horses Tails, a Pair of Gold Scales on a very high Launce's head, equally poized, an Emblem of Justice; and as they returned, at the Palace Gate stood two small Elephants on each side, and two fair Horses with Gold Trappings, Bridles, and Rich Furniture; which made them ad­mire how they brought them up the Hill, the Passage being both difficult and hazardous.

Two days after this,The Rajah mar [...]ies a fourth Wife. Seva Gi signs the Articles. the Rajah was married to a Fourth Wife, without State; and doth every day bestow Alms on the Brachmins.

Some days after, Narun Gi Pundit sent word the Rajah had signed their Articles, all but that about Money. Then the rest of the Mi­nisters of State signed them, and they went to receive them of Na­run Gi Pundit, who delivered them to the Ambassador with Expressi­ons of great Kindness for our Nation, and offered on all occasions to be serviceable to the English at the Court of the Rajah.

I will only add one Passage during the Stay of our Ambassador at Rairee: No Nation eat more Flesh than the English. The Diet of this sort of People admits not of great Variety or Cost, their delightfullest Food being only Cutchery, a sort of Pulse and Rice mixed together, and boiled in Butter, with which they grow Fat: But such Victuals could not be long pleasing to our Merchants, who had been used to feed on good Flesh: It was there­fore signified to the Rajah, That Meat should be provided for them; and to that end a Butcher that served those few Moors that were there, that were able to go to the Charge of Meat, was ordered to supply them with what Goat they should expend (nothing else here being to be gotten for them), which he did accordingly, to the con­sumption of half a Goat a Day, which he found very profitable for him, and thereupon was taken with a Curiosity to visit his new Customers; to whom, when he came, it was told them, The ho­nest Butcher had made an Adventure up the Hill, though very old, to have the sight of his good Masters, who had taken off of his hands more Flesh in that time they had been there, than he had sold in some Years before; so rare a thing is it to eat Flesh among them; for the Gentiles eat none, and the Moors and Portugals eat it well [Page 82] stew'd, bak'd, or made into Pottage; no Nation eating it roasted so commonly as we do: And in this point I doubt we err in these Hot Countries, where our Spirits being always upon the Flight, are not so intent on the business of Concoction; so that those things that are easiest digested, and that create that least trouble to the Stomach, we find by Experience to agree best here.

CHAP. V.
Our Passage to Swally, and Relation of the English Presidency at Surat.

AFter the Rains were over, and the North-East Wind had brought in the Cool Season, by Command from the President I was sent to Surat.

In a Week's time we turned it up, sailing by Baçein, Tarapore, Valentine's-Peak, St. John's, and Daman, the last City Northward on the Continent, belonging to the Portugueze. As also passing by Balsore (the first Town of the Moors Southward of Surat) and eight Ships riding at Surat River's Mouth, we then came to Swally Marine, where were flying the several Colours of the Three Nations, English, French, and Dutch, on Flag-Staffs erected for that purpose, who here land and ship off all Goods, without molestation.

Here we were welcomed by the Deputy-President,Arrival at Swally. Mr. Matthew Grey, an Eminent Merchant, and by the rest of the Council, who took Care for my Entertainment, which here was but rude, the Place admitting of little better Tenements than Booths, stiled by the name of Choultries: Before President Andrew's time they always lodged in Tents; but since, Wooden Houses tiled with Pan-Tiles have been raised in an Inclosure allotted by the Governor. In which Com­pound are included Warehouses, Stables, and other Out-houses, with as good a Garden as this Sandy Soil will allow; in which ours ex­ceeds the other two, being far pleasanter seated.

To this place belong two sorts of Vermin,The Sands full of Fleas and Banyans. the Fleas and Banyans; the one harbouring in the Sand, fasten upon you as you pass; where 'tis some Pastime to see what Shift the Banyan makes, being bit by them, he dare not kill them, for fear of unhousing a Soul, according to their Notion of Transmigration; but giving them a severe Pinch will put them to shift for themselves in a Nest of Cotton-Wool. The other Vermin are the Banyans themselves▪ that hang like Horse­leeches, till they have suck'd both Sanguinen & Succum (I mean Mony) from you: As soon as you have set your Foot on Shore, they crowd in their Service, interposing between you and all Civil Respect, as if you had no other Business but to be gull'd; so that unless you have some to make your way through them, they will interrupt your going, and never leave till they have drawn out something for their Advantage. At this time of Shipping they Present the Governor [Page 83] of Surat, Chap. V. to license them to keep a Mart here, which they make the Europeans pay dearly for: Yet such is their Policy, that without these, neither you nor the Natives themselves shall do any Business,The Banyans pay Money to keep a M [...]rt. though they are worse Brokers than Jews; if they be not the [...]pawn of them, the Rechabites, that would drink no Wine. These generally are the Poorer sort, and set on by the Richer to Trade with the Sea­men for the meanest things they bring; and notwithstanding they take them at their own rates, get well enough in exchange of Goods with them. They are the absolute Map of Sordidness, fareing hardly, and professing fairly, to entrap the unwary; enduring servily foul Words, Affronts and Injuries, for a future hope of Gain; ex­pert in all the studied arts of Thriving and Insinuation; so that, Lying, Dissembling, Cheating, are their Masterpiece: Their whole desire is to have Money pass through their Fingers, to which a great part is sure to stick: For they well understand the constant turning of Cash amounts both to the Credit and Profit of him that is so occupied; which these Banyans are sensible of, otherwise they would not be so industrious to enslave themselves.

Having viewed the Tombs by the Sea-side,Travel to Su­rat. and some more con­spicuous at the end of the Plain belonging to the English; others seated behind the Dutch Choultry, partly English, partly Dutch: Marks set to avoid, as well the Sylla and Charibdis of Damkin and Mora, two Nurseries for Stews, as to warm them of the Sands coming into the Hole where the Ships ride at Anchor very securely: We in the Company's Coaches Travelled to Surat, Ten Mile, brave Champion ground; but the Coach wherein I was, breaking, we were forced to mount the Indian Hackery, a Two-wheeled Chariot, drawn by swift little Oxen. By Sun-set we entred the Company's Barge, waiting to carry us over the River; where saluted us the dreadful Noise of the Moors Drums and Trumpets, it being custo­mary for them to sound at the Castle every Three hours; but chiefly at Sun-rise and Sun-set: I could think of nothing but the last Trump; so that I could persuade my self there was little Musick in it; but they say Time will bring it to be agreeable to the Ears. On the other side the River, other Four wheeled Coaches expected us, and the Moors let us pass the Custom-house without Examination, having Women among us; which was no ordinary point of Civility, they otherwise being strict Examiners, unless the President cross the River, when they forbear also.

The Coach where the Women were,The Coaches and Guards. was covered with Cheeks, a sort of hanging Curtain, made with Bents variously Coloured with Lacker, and Chequered with Packthred so artificially, that you may see all without, and your self within unperceived: Ours was open, and guarded by such a Troop as went to apprehend our Saviour, dressed after the same manner we find them on old Landskips, and led by the same Phanatick Lights we see there Painted.

Our Reception at the English House was Courteous and Welcome, for the Heat of the Day had tired us.

The House the English live in at Surat, The English Factory. is partly the King's Gift, partly hired; Built of Stone and excellent Timber, with good Car­ving, [Page 84] without Representations; very strong, for that each Floor is Half a Yard thick at least, of the best plastered Cement, which is very weighty. It is contrived after the Moor's Buildings, with up­per and lower Galleries, or Terras-walks; a neat Oratory, a con­venient open Place for Meals. The President has spacious Lodgings, noble Rooms for Counsel and Entertainment, pleasant Tanks, Yards, and an Hummum to Wash in; but no Gardens in the City, or very few, though without they have many, like Wildernesses, overspread with Trees. The English had a neat one, but Seva Gi's coming, destroyed it: It is known, as the other Factories are, by their seve­ral Flags flying.

Here they live (in Shipping-time) in a continual hurly-burly,Full of Noise. the Banyans presenting themselves from the hour of Ten till Noon; and then Afternoon at Four till Night, as if it were an Exchange in every Row; below stairs, the Packers and Warehouse-keepers, to­gether with Merchants bringing and receiving Musters, make a meer Billinsgate; for if you make not a Noise, they hardly think you intent on that you are doing.

Among the English, The Four Chief Offices. the Business is distributed into four Offices; the Accomptant, who is next in Dignity to the President, the general Accompts of all India, as well as this place, passing through his hands; he is Quasi Treasurer, signing all things, though the Broker keep the Cash. Next him is the Warehouse-keeper, who Registers all Europe Goods Vended, and receives all Eastern Commo­dities Bought; under him is the Purser Marine, who gives Account of all Goods Exported and Imported, pays Seamen their Wages, pro­vides Waggons and Porters, looks after Tackling for Ships, and Ships Stores. Last of all is the Secretary, who models all Consul­tations, writes all Letters, carries them to the President and Council to be perused and signed; keeps the Company's Seal, which is affixed to all Passes and Commissions; records all Transacti­ons, and sends Copies of them to the Company; though none of these, without the President's Approbation, can act or do any thing. The Affairs of India are solely under his Regulation; from him issue out all Orders, by him all Preferment is disposed; by which means the Council are biassed by his Arbitrament.

The whole Mass of the Company's Servants may be compre­hended in these Classes,The Compa­ny's Servants. and their Sa­laries. viz. Merchants, Factors, and Writers; some Blewcoat Boys also have been entertained under Notion of Apprentices for seven Years, which being expired, if they can get Security, they are capable of Employments. The Writers are obliged to serve Five years for 10 l. per Ann. giving in Bond of 500 l. for good Behaviour, all which time they serve under some of the fore­mentioned Offices: After which they commence Factors, and rise to Preferment and Trust, according to Seniority or Favour, and therefore have a 1000 l. Bond exacted from them, and have their Salary augmented to 20 l. per Ann. for Three Years, then entring into new Indentures, are made Senior Factors; and lastly, Mer­chants after Three Years more; out of whom are chose Chiefs of Factories, as Places fall, and are allowed 40 l. per Ann. during their [Page 85] stay in the Company's service, besides Lodgings and Victuals at the Company's Charges.

These in their several Seigniories behave themselves after the Fun­damentals of Surat, The under Factories mo­delled by this. and in their respective Factories live in the like Grandeur; from whence they rise successively to be of the Council in Surat, which is the great Council; and if the President do not contradict, are Sworn, and take their place accordingly, which consists of about Five in Number, besides the President, to be constantly Re­sident.

As for the Presidency,The Presiden­cy. though the Company interpose a deserving Man, yet they keep that Power to themselves, none assuming that Dignity till confirmed by them: His Salary from the Company is 500 l. a Year; half paid here, the other half reserved to be received at home, in case of misdemeanor to make satisfaction; beside a Bond of 5000 l. Sterling of good Securities.

The Accountant has 72 l. per Annum, Fifty Pound paid here, the other at home: All the rest are half paid here, half at home, ex­cept the Writers, who have all paid here.

Out of the Council are elected the Deputy-Governor of Bombaim, The advan­tage of being at the Coun­cil. and Agent of Persia; the first a Place of great Trust, the other of Profit; though, by the appointment from the Company, the second of India claims Bombaim, and the Secretary of Surat the Agency of Persia, which is connived at, and made subject to the Will of the President, by the Interest of those whose Lot they are; chusing ra­ther to reside here, where Consignments compensate those Emolu­ments; so that none of the Council, if noted in England, but makes considerably by his Place, after the rate of Five in the Hundred, Commission; and this is the Jacob's Ladder by which they ascend.

It would be too mean to descend to indirect ways,The Baseness of the Banyans. which are chief­ly managed by the Banyans, the fittest Tools for any deceitful Under­taking; out of whom are made Broakers for the Company, and private Persons, who are allowed Two per Cent. on all Bargains, be­sides what they squeeze secretly out of the price of things bought; which cannot be well understood for want of knowledge in their Lan­guage; which Ignorance is safer, than to hazard being poysoned for prying too nearly into their Actions: Though the Company, to encourage Young men in their Service, maintain a Master to learn them to Write and Read the Language, and an Annuity to be annex­ed when they gain a perfection therein, which few attempt, and fewer attain.

To this Factory belongs Twenty Persons in number,Number of Persons in the Factory. reckoning Swally Marine into the Account; a Minister for Divine Service, a Chirurgion, and when the President is here, a Guard of English Sol­diers, consisting of a double File led by a Serjeant.

The present Deputy has only Forty Moor-men, and a Flag-man car­rying St. George his Colours Swallow-tailed in Silk, fastned to a Silver Partisan; with a small Attendance of Horse with Silver Bridles, and Furniture for the Gentlemen of the House, and Coaches for Ladies and Council.

The President besides these has a Noise of Trumpets,State of the President. and is car­ried himself in a Palenkeen, an Horse of State led before him, a Mir­chal [Page 86] (a Fan of Ostriches Feathers) to keep off the Sun, as the Om­brahs or Great Men have, none but the Emperor have a Sumbrero among the Moguls: Besides these, every one according to his Quality has his Menial Servants to wait on him in his Chamber, and follow him out.

The Presidency of Surat is esteemed Superior to all in India, All Places in India subject to the Presi­dency, with their Com­modities. the Agency of Bantam being not long since subordinate to it, but since made independent; tho the South Sea Trade is still maintained from hence to Bantam with such Cloath as is vendible there, from thence with Dollars to China for Sugar, Tea, Porcelane, Laccared Ware, Quicksilver, Tuthinag and Copper; which with Cowreys, little Sea Shels, come from Siam and the Phillipine Islands; Gold and Ele­phants Teeth from Sumatra, in exchange of Corn. From Persia, which is still under the Presidency, come Druggs and Carmania Wool; from Moco, Cohor, or Coffee. The Inland Factories subject to it, are Amidavad, whence is provided Silks, as Atlases wrought with Gold; Agra, where they fetch Indico, Chuperly, Course Cloath, Siring Chints, Broach Baftas, broad and Narrow; Dimities, and other fine Calicuts: Along the Coasts are Bombaim, Rajapore for Salloos; Carnear for Dun­garees, and the weightiest Pepper: Calicut for Spice, Ambergreez, Granats, Opium, with Salt Peter, and no Cloath, though it give the name of Calicut to all in India, it being the first Port from whence they were known to be brought into Europe: All which, after the Europe Ships have unladen at Surat, they go down to fetch; and bring up time enough before the Caphalas out of the Country come in with their Wares.

The Places about Surat afford variety of Calicuts, The Invest­ment set on foot in the Rains. but not such vast quantities as are yearly exported, and moreover not so cheap; which is the reason at every place the Factors are sent to oversee the Wea­vers, buying up the Cotton-yarn to employ them all the Rains, when they set on foot their Investments, that they may be ready against the Season for the Ships: Or else the Chief Broaker imploys Banvans in their steads, who is responsible for their Fidelity.

On these Wheels moves the Traffick of the East, This Trade managed by a Company better than Free Traders. and has succeeded better than any Corporation preceeding, or open Trade licensed in the time of Oliver Cromwell; though how much more to the be­nefit of England than a Free Commerce, may be guessed by their already being over-stocked with Europe Merchandise, which lowers the Price. What then would a Glut do, which certainly must fol­low, but debase them more, and enhance these?

But lest the New Company should be exclaimed against as too greedy Monopolizers,Their Free­men greater Slaves than their Servants. they permit Free Traders on their Island Bombaim; when, to speak truth, they are in a far worse Condition than their Servants; being tied up without hopes of raising them­selves: So that in earnest they find out that to be but a Trick.

However, to confess on the Company's behalf,The Charges of the English Company not so great as the Hollanders. the Trade (I mean on this Coast) for some years lately passed has hardly ballanced Expences. They employing yearly Forty Sail of stout Ships to and from all Parts where they trade, out and home; Manning and main­taining their Island Bombaim, Fort St. George, and St. Helens; be­sides [Page 87] large Sums expended to bear out the Port of their Factors; which notwithstanding by impartial Computation has been found in­ferior to the Costs of the Hollanders, and therefore more to the pro­fit of the English East-India Company, than theirs, in the few Years they have adventured; so that I should mightily blame them, should they prove ungrateful to His Majesty, who by his gracious Favour has united them in a Society, whereby they are Competitors, for Riches (though not Strength) with the Noted'st Company in the Universe.

This was granted presently after the Happy Restoration of our Gracious Sovereign,Their Charter put in force. when Order began to dawn, and dispel the dark Chaos of Popular Community: Then was sent out a President, to put their Charter in Force, and establish a Graduation among their Servants, which before was not observed; only for Orders sake, they did nominate an Agent; the rest being independent, made no distinction. When as now, after a better Model, they commence according to their standing, and are under a Collegiate manner of Restraint.

The last Agent was Agent Rivinton, The Course of the Presidents. who was abolished by the Company's sending out President Wych, who lived not much more than two years: President Andrews took his place; and he resigning, Sir George Oxendine held it till his Death; in whose time Seva Gi plunder'd Surat; but he defended himself and the Merchants so bravely, that he had a Collat or Serpaw, a Robe of Honour [...]rom Head to Foot offered him from the Great Mogul, with an Abatement of Customs to Two and an half per Cent. granted to the Company: For which his Masters, as a Token of the high Sense they had of his Valour, presented him a Medal of Gold, with this Device: ‘Non minor est virtus quam quaerere parta tueri.’

After whose Decease, the Honourable Gerald Aungier took the Chair, and encounter'd that bold Mountaineer a second time, with as great Applause; when the Governor of the Town and Province durst neither of them shew their Heads: ‘Fluctum enim totius Barbariae ferre urbs u [...]a non poterat.’

The Enemies by the help of an Europe Engineer had sprung a Mine to blow up the Castle;The English defend them­selves with Honour a­gainst Seva Gi a second time. The Power of the President. but being discovered, were repulsed; for though he had set Fire to the rest of the City, they retained the Castle, and the English their House.

The Extent of the Presidency is larger in its Missions than Resi­dency; in which Limits may be reckoned an hundred Company's Servants continually in the Country; besides the Annual Advenues of Ships, which during their Stay are all under the same Command: Therefore what Irregularities are committed against only the Presi­dency or Company, in case of Non-Submission, the Persons offend­ing are to be sent home, and dismissed their Employments for Re­fractoriness; but if an higher Court lay hold of them in case of [Page 88] Murder or any Capital Crime, then they are to be sent to Bombaim, there to have a Legal Trial, according to the Laws of England, as the President is created Governor of his Majesty's Island.

The ill managing of which Penalties formerly,The ill success of the first Ad­venturers im­puted to want of Govern­ment, and War with Por­tugal. or the Invalidity to inflict them, may be the true Cause of the Unprosperousness of the Ancient Undertakers; who had this Inconveniency still attend­ing, to wit, the incorrigible stubborness of their own Men, after they had overcome all other Difficulties, occasioned by the Grant of the East to the Portugal, and West-Indies to the Spaniard. Nevertheless this Fairy Gift was the Ground of a long and tedious Quarrel in each of the World's Ends; so that our Ships encountring with their Carracks, seldom used to part without the loss of one or both. Nay, the long-liv'd People yet at Swalley, remember a notable Skirmish betwixt the English and Portugals there, wherein they were neatly intrapp'd; an Ambuscado of ours falling upon them behind in such sort, that they were compelled between them and the Ships in the Road, to resign most of their Lives; and gave by their Falla me­morable Name to a Point they yet call Bloody Point, for this very reason. But since these Sores are fortunately bound up in that Con­jugal Tye betwixt our Sacred King and the Sister of Portugal, laying all foul Words and Blows aside, let us see how the Affairs stand be­twixt them and the Dutch, who followed our Steps, and got in at the Breach we made. They made them more Work, not only beat­ing them out of their South-Sea Trade, but possessed themselves of all their Treasures of Spice, and have ever since kept them, with all their Strong-holds, as far as Goa; they only enjoying the Gold Trade of Mosambique undisturbed; the Japanners having banished both their Commerce and Religion.

Wherefore our Ships almost alone,The Compa­ny enrich this Port. were it not for a little the French of late, lade Calicuts for Europe: The Dutch have a Factory here, that vend the Spices they bring from Batavia, and invest part of the Money in course Cloath, to be disposed among their Planters, or sold to the Malayans, and send the rest back in Rupees: So that we singly have the Credit of the Port, and are of most advantage to the Inhabitants, and fill the Custom-House with the substantialest In­comes. But not to defraud the French of their just Commendations, whose Factory is better stor'd with Monsieurs than with Cash, they live well, borrow Money, and make a Shew: Here are French Capuchins, who have a Convent, and live in Esteem.

And here I might conclude,The Diamond Trade better in the hands of the Com­pany's Ser­vants than in theirs. did not the Diamond Trade and other Jewels interpose; which I could wish for the Company's sake might never be struck out of their Indulgence allowed to their Servants: For it will never amount to Advantage in their hands, because the Jews, who are the chief Chapmen in England will blow upon them, unless they come to their Prices, when more than enough is offered them. But in particular hands the Case is otherwise, every one snatching at a Prize, which none is sensible of, but the private Buyer; but when they are publickly Invoiced, it will be at their own Wills to make their Bargains. Withal, in the Company's Servants hands, it not only keeps them Honest, but they grow Rich without wronging [Page 89] the Company: Whereas should they retract this, not only the Jews would find others to furnish them, as the French and Dutch, with their Encomiendums; but other Monied Gentlemen in England might be tempted to set up for Interloping, who know not how bet­ter to dispose of their Monies on any Bank, than by adventuring Large Sums, that do now to my knowledge return them in a Year and a half's time from 50 l. to 70 l. per Cent. advance, and the Factors good Gainers too; and all this while no Prejudice done either to Freight or the Company's Trade; which if they will not believe, let them experiment to their own Cost. Nor can I say more on this Sub­ject, than both French and Dutch Jewellers coming over Land do un­derstand, who have made good Purchase by buying Jewels here, and carrying them into Europe to be Cut and Set, and returning sell them here to the Ombrahs, among whom were Monsieur Tavernier, and now Monsieur Rezin, and Monsieur Jordan.

Thus much may serve for this Year; by the next I may prepare a farther Account, if I live; for so long I will be

CHAP. I.
Animadversions on the City and People of Surat in the East-Indies.

GOING out to see the City of Surat, Chap. I. I passed without any Incivility,The Rudeness of the Devotes, the better because I understood not what they said; for though we meet not with Boys so rude as in England, to run after Strangers, yet here are a sort of bold, lusty, and most an end, drunken Beggars, of the Musslemen Cast, that if they see a Christian in good Clothes, Mounted on a stately Horse, with rich Trappings, are presently upon their Puncti­lio's with God Almighty, and interrogate him, Why he suffers him to go a Foot, and in Rags, and this Coffery (Unbeliever) to vaunt it thus? And are hardly restrained from running a Muck (which is to kill whoever they meet, till they be slain themselves) especially if they have been at Hodge, a Pilgrimage to Mecca, and thence to Juddah, where is Mahomet's Tomb; these commonly, like evil Spi­rits, have their Habitations among the Tombs: Nor can we com­plain only of this Libertinism, for the Rich Moormen themselves are persecuted by these Rascals.

As for the rest,And Seamen. they are very respectful, unless the Seamen or Soldiers get Drunk, either with Toddy, or Bang (a pleasant intoxi­cating Seed, mixed with Milk) then are they Monarchs, and it is [Page 92] Madness to oppose them;Letter III. but leave them to themselves, and they will vent that Fury, by breathing a Vein or two with their own Swords, sometimes slashing themselves most Barbarously.

The Town has very many noble lofty Houses of the Moor-Mer­chants, The Build­ings. flat at top, and Terassed with Plaster. There is a Parsy, Broker to the King of Bantam, has turned the outside of his Pockets on a sumptuous House, a spacious Fabrick, but ill contrived, as are many of the Banians. They, for the most part, affect not stately Buildings, living in humble Cells or Sheds. Glass is dear, and scarcely purchaseable (unless by way of Stambole, or Constantinople, from the Venetians, from whom they have some Panes of Painted Glass in Sash Windows) therefore their Windows, except some few of the highest Note, are usually folding Doors, skreened with Cheeks, or Latises, Carved in Wood, or Ising-glass, or more com­monly Oister-shells. The greatest Commodity here is Air, which is to be admired in the Rich Banyans, how they stew themselves out of a penurious humour, crowding Three or Four Families together into an Hovel, with Goats, Cows, and Calves, all Chamber-fel­lows, that they are almost poysoned with Vermin and Nastiness; but surely they take delight in it, for they will fresh and fasting be­sprinkle themselves with the Stale of a Cow, as you behold a good Christian with Holy-water, or a Moorman slabber his Beard with Rose-water: Nay more, they use it as a Potion, or Philter, and bid the Devil do his worst after it; so stupid, that notwithstanding Chints, Fleas, and Muskeeto's, torment them every Minute, dare not presume to scratch where it itches, lest some Relation should be untenanted its miserable abode.

The Habits and Customs of this place are reconcilable with them in the Kingdom of Gulconda, The Heathen Rites more suppressed here than in Gulconda. only the Moguls being more absolute, and of a more Puritanical Sect than the Chia's; the Heathens are suppressed in respect of their Barbarous Rites, and reduced to a more civil Garb, being more decently Clothed.

The Moguls, Moguls and Chia's dis­agree. who are Lords here, differ from them of Gulconda in point of their Caliph's Succession, [...]he first maintaining the Sect of the Arabs, the others of the Suffean, or Persian.

They have Four Expositors of the Law,Sects of the Moguls. to whom they give Cre­dit in matter of Ceremonies, viz.

• Hanoffi.
• Shoffi.
• Hamaleech.
• Maluche.

Their great scruple is about Eating together among all sorts of these Eastern Nations.

All Musselmen (true Believers) as they call themselves of this Persuasion, Communicate in that point; only some Punctilio's in respect of Marriage remain yet undecided; as for an Hanoffi to offer his Daughter to a Shoffi, is a great shame; but if the other request it first, he may comply without derogation.

[Page 93] They are distinguished, some according to the Consanguinity they claim with Mahomet; as a Siad is a Kin to that Imposture, and therefore only assumes to himself a Green Vest and Puckery (or Turbat) none other being permitted to wear them. A Shiek is a Cousin too, at a distance, into which Relation they admit all new made Proselytes. Meer is somewhat Allied also, and Mussanne. The rest are adopted under the Name of the Province or Kingdom they are Born in, as Mogul the Race of the Tartars, and are esteemed, as the Name imports, White Men; Patan, Duccan; or Schisms they have made, as Bilhim, Jemottee, and the lowest of all is Borrah.

These Eat highly of all Flesh Dumpoked, Their Diet. which is Baked with Spice in Butter; Pullow, a Stew of Rice and Butter, with Flesh, Fowl, or Fish; Fruits, Achars, or Pickles, and Sweatmeats: If they invite a Christian, they order Dishes apart, and between Meals Entertain with Coho, Tobacco, Pawn, which makes a fragrant Breath, and gives a rare Vermilion to the Lips; and as a great Compliment drown you with Rosewater, Senting themselves with Essence of Sandal and Oranges, very Costly, and exquisitely Ex­tracted. They drink no Wine Publickly, but Privately will be good Fellows, not content with such little Glasses as we drink out of, nor Claret or Rhenish (which they call Vinegar) but Sack and Brandy out of the Bottle they will Tipple, till they are well warmed.

At the First entrance into their Houses,Way of En­tertainment. for the greater Respect, they meet at the Portal, and usher Strangers to the place of Enter­tainment; where, out of common Courtesy, as well as Religion, (when they enter an Holy Place) they pull off their Slippers, and after the usual Salams, seat themselves in Choultries, open to some Tank of purling Water; commonly spread with Carpets, or Siturngees, and long round Cushions of Velvet to bolster their Back and Sides, which they use when they ride in their Chariots, which are made to sit Cross-legg'd on, not their Legs hanging down as ours; it be­ing accounted among them no good breeding to let their Legs or Feet be seen whilst sitting: In their Palenkeens, Coaches, or swing­ing Cotts, which they affect for Ease, are laid huge Bolsters of state, and Quilts of Cotton to lie at length., their Ceilings and Posts are Hung with Mechlapatan Pintado's, and adorned with other Gallantry.

They go rich in Attire,Their Attire is Rich. with a Poniard, or Catarre, at their Girdle; as they are Neat in Apparel, they are Grave in their Carriage.

Their Women wear the Breeches,The Women wear Jewels. but in a most servile condition; yet they have their Ornaments of Head, with Bracelets of Pearl, Ear-rings and Nose-rings, to which they hang Jewels, mostly set in Silver, because Gold is Nigess, or Unclean.

They are strict observers of the Hours of Prayer,Strict obser­vers of the Hours of Prayer. when they strip off all their Gorgeous Habiliments to their Shift, and after Washing Hands and Feet, Prostrate themselves during the time of Devotion, when Rising they Salute their Guardian-Angels according to the Opinion of the Stoicks, who allotted every one his Juno and his Genius; having made their Orisons, and Purified themselves, they return to Company as before.

[Page 94] They are great Revellers by Night, in the heat of the Day they sleep and dally.

They circumcise the Foreskin of the Male,Great Revel­lers at Cir­cumcisions and which is performed by a Barber, at Eight years of Age; with Feasting, and carrying the Boy about in pomp, with Musick and great Expressions of Joy. Of the Girls they make small account, they being instructed within doors how to pray.

The Cazy or Judge,Marriages. after the Match is made by the Parents, mar­ries them; from whence doubtless our Phanaticks borrowed their Custom of Marrying by a Justice of Peace: This is also a time of Solemnity sometimes kept for several Weeks together with Illumina­tions on their Houses, their Garments tinctured with Saffron, riding triumphantly through the Streets with Trumpets and Kettle Drums; fetching the Bride from her Kindred, and they sending Banquets, Houshold-stuff, and Slaves their Attendants, with a great Train through their Streets, which is all their Dowry: But the Cazy has a Knack beyond those Couplers of Europe, he can loose the Knot when they plead a Divorce. They have four Wives if they can maintain them, and as many other Women as they please; she that bears the first Son is reckoned the Chief.

At their Labours they seldom call Midwives,Quick in La­bour. being pretty quick that way, though there are not a few live well by that Profession; known by Tufts of Silk on their Shooes or Slippers, all other Wo­men wearing them plain: At the end of their Quarentine, which is Forty days, after the Old Law, they enter the Hummums to Purify; and the Child, without much Ceremony, is named by the Pa­rents.

At Funerals,Great Lamen­tation when any dye. the Mullahs or Priests, make Orations or Sermons, after a Lesson read out of the Alchoran, and lay them North and South, as we do East and West, when they are Inhumed, expecting from that Quarter the appearance of their Prophet. Upon the death of any, in the hearing of the Outcry, which is great among the Women, beating their Breasts, and crying aloud, they neither eat, nor shift their Cloaths, till the Person be interred; the Relations mourn by keeping on dirty Cloaths, and a neglect of their Apparel; neither washing nor shaving themselves: It is usual to hire People to lament, and the Widow once a Moon go to the Grave with her Ac­quaintance to repeat the doleful Dirge, after which she bestows Hol­way, a kind of Sacramental Wafer; and entreats their Prayers for the Soul of the Departed; and for that reason the most store of Graves are in Cross-ways, or High-roads, that the Passengers may be put in mind of that Office: They never Enshrine any in their Moschs, but in the places adjoining them; where they build Tombs, and leave Stipends for Mullahs to offer Petitions up for them.

The Duty of the Mallahs, The Duty of their Priests. besides these, is to call from the Stee­ples of their Maschs every Pore, that is, once in Three hours stop­ping their Ears with their Fingers: Allah Eckbar, Allah Eckbar, Es­chadu ela Hale ilallah we Eschedu, Mahmed ewesul: Cuah Fleje ala Selah heie ula Felah, Alla Eckber, Alla Eckber, La Jelah Hallah: i. e. God is Great, I profess, there is no Deity but God, and confess that Mahomet is the Prophet of God. Their Priests say Prayers five times [Page 95] a-day, and expound the Alcheran once a-week, and that on Friday, which day they are not to lye with their Women, setting it apart for the Service of God.

Here is a Xeriff, The Xeriff their High-Priest. who is as it were their Primate, under him the Cazys, or Judges, are the next, then the Inferior Clergy, as the Mullahs, and Scribes, or Teachers of Youth in the Arabick Tongue.

With these,Extravagan­cies of the Fakiers or Ho­ly Men. by the favour of the present Mogul, who lived long in that Order, till he came to the Throne, must be numbred the Fakiers or Holy Men, abstracted from the World, and resigned to God, for the Word will bear that Interpretation; on this Pretence are committed sundry Extravagancies, as putting themselves on vo­luntary Penances. Here is one that has vowed to hang by the Heels, till he get Money enough to build a Mosch to Mah [...]met, that he may be held a Saint. Another shall travel the Country with an Horn blowed afore him, and an Ox it may be to carry him and his Baggage, besides one to wait on him with a Peacock's Tail; whilst he rattles a great Iron Chain [...]ettered to his Foot, as big as those Ele­phants are Foot-locked with, some two yards in length; every Link thicker than a Man's Thumb, and a Palm in length; his shaking this speaks his Necessity, which the poor Gentiles dare not deny to relieve; for if they do, he accuses them to the Cazy, who desires no better opportunity to fleece them: For they will no [...] stick to swear they blasphemed Mahomet, for which there is no evasion but to de­posit, or be cut, and made a Moor.

Most of these are Vagabonds,They make every place their home, and all their own. and are the Pest of the Nation they live in; some of them live in Gardens and retired Places in the Fields, in the same manner as the Seers of old, and the Children of the Pro­phets did: Their Habit is the main thing that signalizes them more than their Virtue; they profess Poverty, but make all things their own where they come; all the heat of the Day they idle it under some shady Tree, at night they come in Troops, armed with a great Pole, a Mirchal or Peacock's Tail, and a Wallet; more like Plun­derers than Beggers; they go into the Market, or to the Shop­keepers, and force an Alms, none of them returning without his share: Some of them pass the bounds of a modest Request, and bawl out in the open Streets for an Hundred Rupees, and nothing less will satisfy these.

They are cloathed with a ragged Mantle,How clad: which serves them also for a Matrass, for which purpose some have Lyons, Tygres or Leo­pards Skins to lay under them: The Civilest of them wear Flesh-co­loured Vests, somewhat like our Brick-makers Frocks, and almost of that Colour. The Merchants, as their Adventures return, are bountiful towards them, by which means some of them thrive upon it.

These Field Conventiclers at the hours of Devotion beat a Drum,They are be­come formi­dable. from them called the Fakiers Drum; here are of these Strolers about this City enough to make an Army, that they are almost become for­midable to the Citizens; nor is the Governour powerful enough to correct their Insolencies. For lately setting on a Nobleman of the Moors, when his Kindred came to demand Justice, they unanimously [Page 96] rose in defence of the Aggressor, and rescued him from his deserved Punishment.Letter II.

For all the Governor comes to his Seat attended every Morning with 300 Foot with Fire-Arms,The Governor not able to quell them. Three Elephants in their Cloathing (which is here also a principal Mark of the Greatness of these Men in place, the more Elephants they keep, they are looked on as more Honourable) Forty Horses mounted, Four and twenty Banners of State; besides a large Retinue of the Cazy's, who is always present to assist him in Law Points. Moreover he has Loud Trumpets made as big, and like our Stentoro Phonica, or speaking Trumpet, with Thundring Kettle-Drums; yet neither the Formality of this Ap­pearance, nor regard due to his Office, is terrible enough to prevail with these to submit to resign the Caitiff, and hardly is his whole Force able to keep them from bare-faced Rebellion.

But though these Outlaws (for as such they ought to be look'd on,The Villany of the Gover­nor's Servants had a Tragi­cal Event. while they disown all Subjection) behave themselves thus, the poor Inhabitants that work for their Bread, are under severer Re­straints; for the Governor's Servants being upheld by as uncon­trouled Licentiousness, on pretence of pressing the Craftsmen from their daily Labour into the Governor's Service, extort continued Fees from them, or else they are sure to be set on work, without any thing for their Pains: Which was but even now made a Publick Grievance, by the Resistance of a sturdy Patan, (who is sprung from a Warlike People, of whom it is said, They never draw their Swords, but Blood must follow): And thus it happen'd; The Patan having employ'd a Taylor at his house, one of the Governor's Men seized him for his Master's Service; but the Patan rushing in to re­lease him, the Soldier ran a young Brother of the Patan's through, naked and unconcerned in the Scuffle; which so enraged the Patan, that forcing the Sword out of the hand of this inhuman Butcher, he kill'd him and two more that came to his Rescue; and going in­to his house, slew his own Wife, and Sister, and a little Son of his own, that they might not fall a Sacrifice to the Governor's Rage: The wretched Taylor, animated by the Example of the Patan (tho but coolly), had murder'd his Wife had she not fled; but laying hold on his Old Father and Mother, he dispatched them; and bolt­ing forth into the Street, set upon what Governor's Men he and the Patan could meet: Tidings whereof striking the Governor's Ears, he came with all his Power to beset the exasperated and desperate Men; but though a Thousand Men were up in Arms, and gazing upon the Patan standing with his Sword in his hand at the Entrance of the House, none durst venture to apprehend him; till his Fury abating, and Promises given by a Great Man, of Favour if he resigned; he attending to his Parley, in the mean while two Men with Guns from atop of the House discharged on him, and wounded him and the Taylor mortally, but not before they had carried this false Great Man with some of his Attendants along with them out of the World: So that these Curs set to keep the Sheep, are the first that worry them.

Lest therefore all Shew of Justice should be banished, now and then, when they have not Mony to buy it off, or the Emperor be [Page 97] informed, some Exemplary Punishments are inflicted: Some In­stances whereof I shall relate.

The one was of an Armenian, Some exem­plary Punish­ments. Chawbucked through the City for sel­ling of Wine. The other was of a Goldsmith who had coined Copper Rupees; first they shaved his Head and Beard, as our Country men do Bayliffs when they presume to Arrest in Priviledg'd Places; then putting a Fool's Cap on his Head, they set him on an Ass, with his Face to the Tail, which is led by an Holencore, and one of their Drums is beat before him, which is an Affront of the highest degree; thus they lead him up and down the City, where the Boys and Sol­diers treat him but scurvily, pelting him all the way he passes: Being brought back to Prison, they cut off his Hand, and let him lye du­ring the Governor's Pleasure. The Third was of a Pack of Thieves that had infested the Roads a long time, and after some whiles Impri­sonment the Banyans proffered Money for their Redemption; but the Great Mogul sending an Express, they were led to Execution; They were Fifteen, all of a Gang, who used to lurk under Hedges in nar­row Lanes, and as they found opportunity, by a Device of a Weight tied to a Cotton Bowstring made of Guts, (with which they tew Cot­ton) of some length, they used to throw it upon Passengers so, that winding it about their Necks, they pulled them from their Beasts, and dragging them upon the Ground strangled them, and possessed them­selves of what they had: One of these was an Old Man with his two Sons, the youngest not fourteen. This being their Practice, they were sentenced, according to Lex Talionis, to be hang'd; wherefore being delivered to the Catwal, or Sheriff's Men, they led them two Miles with Ropes about their Necks to some wild Date-Trees: In their way thither they were chearful, and went singing, and smoaking Tobacco, the Banyans giving them Sweetmeats, they being as jolly as if going to a Wedding; and the Young Lad now ready to be tied up, boasted, That though he were not Fourteen Years of Age, he had killed his Fifteen Men; wherefore the Old Man, as he had been a Leader of these Two, was first made an Exam­ple for his Villany, and then the two Striplings were advanced, as all the rest were, half a Foot from the Ground; and then cutting their Legs off that the Blood might flow from them, they left them miserable Spectacles, hanging till they dropped of their own accord.

The following Delinquents being of another kind,Delinquents of another kind. we shall see how they fare: The one was of a Rich Merchant of the Moors kil­ling his Wife, and a Child he had by her of Three Years old, upon taking her with her Paramour in Adultery; for which Crime a Pe­cuniary Mulct excused him: The other was a Boy's sticking a So­domitish Moor to the Heart with his own Catarre, while he attempt­ed upon his Body; which Fact was so far from being accused as a Fault, that the Boy came off with Commendation; though there is nothing more frequently committed among them, than the unna­tural Sin of Buggery.

There is another thing above all the rest an unpardonable Offence;The Crime of growing rich. for a Banyan or Rich Broker to grow Wealthy without Protection of some Great Person; for it is so mighty a Disquiet to the Governor, [Page 98] that he can never be at ease till he have seen the bottom of this Mis­chief; which is always cured by Transfusion of Treasure out of the Banyans into the Governor's Coffers: Which makes them become humble Suiters for the Umbrage of any of Quality, to skreen them from this Violence.

The next in the Executive Power is the Catwal, The Sh [...]iff. the Governor of the Night, as the other two Great Officers rule the Day; or nearer our Constitution, the Sheriff of the City: For after the Keys are carried to the Governor, it is the Catwals Business with a Guard of near Two hundred Men, to scower the Streets and Brothels of Idle Companions; to take an account of all People late out, to discover Fires and House-breakers, and to carry all lewd Persons to Prison, which is solely committed to his Charge: So that all Night long he is heard by his Drums and Trumpets, shouting and hallowing of his Crew in their Perambulation through all Parts of the City; with Lights and Flam­beaus, with some few of his Companions in Coaches or Palenkeens: Moreover he seises all Debtors, and secures them, and has the care of Punishing and Executing all Offenders.

This is a Place of great Trust,The Chief Customer. but neither so Honourable or Pro­fitable as the Shawbunder's is; who is King of the Port, or Chief Customer, though something abated by the Mogul's too fondly in a Religious Vanity granting Immunity to the Musslemen lately, which is no small detriment.

The Custom-house has a good Front, where the Chief Customer appears certain hours to chop, that is, to mark Goods outward­bound, and clear those received in: Upon any suspicion of default he has a Black-Guard that by a Chawbuck, a great Whip, extorts Con­fession: There is another hangs up at the daily Waiters, or Meerbar's Choultry, by the Landing-place, as a terror to make them pay Caesar his due; the Punishment, if detected, being only Corporal, not Confiscation of Goods: This Place is filled with Publicans, Waiters and Porters, who are always at the Receipt of Custom, but are a lit­tle too tardy sometimes in the delivery of Goods, making the Mer­chant dance attendance, till a right understanding be created be­twixt the Shawbunder and them, which commonly follows when the Fist is mollified.

Over-against the Custom-house is a stately Entrance into the Mint,The Mint. which is a large Town of Offices within it self; hither re­pair all Shreffs or Bankers, for the proof of Silver, which in this place is the most refined, and purest from allay, in the World; as is also their Gold: Their lowest Coyn is of Copper.

Between these two is a crowded Buzzar of all those who come to sell and buy Cloath; being disengaged here,Many Mar­kets. we pass the High-Streets, with Shops on each side, not like ours in Europe, being more like Pedlers Stalls; we crossed several Buzzars, which yielded sustinence to the many Mouths we encountred.

Piercing thorough the City to the Walls which are building to sur­round it, and a Ditch accompanying it, (though but shallow, yet the Wall is high, and of good well baked Brick) at length we came in sight of the Castle, having a large Pomarium.

[Page 99] They say it has been standing ever since Tamberlane was here; who they give out to be its Founder:The Castle built by Tam­berlane. It may be so, for it is old, yet bears 30 or 40 stout Pieces of Ordnance, fronts the River, and is Moated by it; to which they pass a Draw bridge, but admit no Stranger: It is Manned by 300 Luscarries or Soldiers, armed with Gun, Sword and Buckler, has a peculiar Governor independent from him of the Town or Province, being as it were confined to it, not presuming, on forfeiture of his Head, on any account to pass out of a Garden by the Bridge, it being his farthest Walk.

Up and down the City are Remains of Seva Gi's Fury, the Ruins being not yet repaired; of whom they stand in hourly fear, having their Sores still fresh in their Memory: To prevent whose Rage, they are collecting an Hundred thousand Rupees till their Walls be finished, when we shall see how they will defend them; having 700 Men allotted for that Office, besides Europe Gunners at every Gate, which are Six in number, beside 36 Bastions with half a dozen great Guns apiece: Upon the top they have piled spiked Timber to annoy the Scalers.

Every Gate is barbed with Iron Spikes to break the rushing in of the Elephants;The Wall and Gates. these also are under a distinct Command.

The Governor of the Town has an Army of 1500 Men in pay,Number of Soldiers. with Matchlocks, Swords and Javelins; Two hundred Horse with Quivers full of Arrows at the Bow of their Saddles, Lances at their Right Stirrup, and Swords of an unweildy bulk, with Bucklers hang­ing over their Shoulders; their Bows are curiously and strongly made with Horn, and for that reason better in Dry than Wet Weather.

Among the many Moschs to and again,Their Moschs. only two are famous with long Spires by the Wall, where is a stately Dwelling for the Xeriff.

They have Three other Places for Strangers called Caravan Se­rawes, Caravans. or Inns, intended by the Donors gratis, but since perverted, and let out to Foreigners.

Near the Governor's Stables were Forty Camels housed,Stables. ready for War, and half a dozen Elephants.

These Stables are rather Sheds, or Booths of Hair-cloath, to re­move on occasion, than any Building fixed for that purpose; and were it not for the manner of treating their Horses, not worth the mentioning: They have no Racks, but feed as Nature intended them, from the Ground, if they get Hay; for their Corn, it is usually Ga­ravance, a sort of Pease which they put into an Hair Bag, and by a String (clapping their Mouths into it) fastned behind their Ears, is kept from the Ground; out of this they have their daily Allowance; beside Butter, Sugar and Jaggaree or Mulasso's made into Past, with the Meal of Garavance, which fattens all their Beasts of War, and makes them slick and fine; they cover them very warm with a kind of Felt or Flock-work, two or three double, and tye them by all their Feet stretched out at length; in which posture they always stand: When they make their Beds, they sift the Dung they make, after it is dried in the Sun, and make a soft lying for them of it; they court them with all the gentleness and kind Speeches imagi­nable, [Page 100] seldom or never speaking to, or using them harshly; every Horse has one Man wholly imployed about his Service, and pretends to no other business; so that as good Horses are chargeable to pur­chase, they are also chargeable in keeping.

The Governor about this time taking occasion to quarrel with the Dutch, The Governor quarrels with the Dutch. offering several Abuses both of Body and Purse; the Commo­dore was resolved no longer to endure it, and therefore had sent for their Fleet, and in the mean time threatned to remove the Factory to Gogo, a Port over-against Swally; which with Diu Point makes Swally Hole: To prevent which, a Decoy was put upon all Fringi's, that we could not go out of the Gates of the City, but by especial Commission from the Governor.

CHAP. II.
Shews the Tombs, Outwalks, Ceremonies, and Austerities of the Gentiles, with the Ships and River about Surat.

HAving obtained Leave of the Governor,The Raspoots take Toll with the Mogul. we went out of the Walls by Broach-Gate (they taking Names from the chief Pla­ces they lead to), where, as at every Gate, stands a Chocky, or Watch to receive Toll for the Emperor; and which is a shame, a Raspoot also for the Raspoots otherwise they would infest the Villa­ges adjacent, and drive away the Cattel; for all which it is unsafe to be far out of the Town late at Night, unless well guarded. This way was all strewed with Moor-men's Tombs, and one of especial Note of a Persian Ambassador, who returning from England with Sir Anthony Shirley, is reported to poyson himself here, rather than answer some ill Management of his Office to his Master: Not far from whence, on a small Hill on the left hand of the Road, lies Tom Coriat, our English Fakier (as they name him), together with an Armenian Christian, known by their Graves lying East and West: He was so confident of his Perfection in the Indostan Tongue, that he ventured to play the Orator in it before the Great Mogul. In his re­turn from him he was killed with Kindness by the English Merchants, which laid his rambling Brains at Rest.

From hence we passed over to the Dutch Tombs,Dutch and Ar­menian tombs. many and hand­some, most of them Pargetted. Adjoining to which the Armenians have a Garden, where on a Terras (Forty Yards in Length, and Five in Breadth) are reared several Monuments Coffin-Fashion, with a place to burn Incense at the Head, like the Moors, only over it a Cross: One of more Eminency had an Arch over it at the upper-end.

Thence we took a Round, though the Inclosures are contiguous, to the English Tombs, short of which the Portugals have a Burial-Place.

The Ground the English Dead are inhumed in,The English Burial-Place. is stocked not with so many Tombs as the Dutch; though in one of Sir George Oxendine's it excels the Proudest.

[Page 101] The French have a separate Place to deposit their Dead, overagainst the English, with only one single Tomb, and that a small one.

In every place up and down the Fields are Tombs of Musslemen: The French Tomb The Burfta's or Heathen Wanderers. A Mile from the City, buried like Diogenes with their Heels upwards, stand a Row of Sepulchres of the Muttany, or Burfta's Pilgrims, with the Soles of their Feet imprinted on the middle; some under a Foursquare, others Round rising Tombs, by the side of a Tank, on an ascending Mount.

A Mile and a half further is Pulparra, Pulparra, an Heathen Se­minary. a Town separated for the Banyans to exercise their Funeral and Festival Rites. This is a Se­minary of their Heathen Doctors or Brachmins, many of whom were in the River doing their Devotions, which consists in Washing and Praying.

The Elder sate in a Row, where the Men and Women came down together to wash, having Lungies about their Wastes only, which before they put on, they select a Brachmin of their proper Cast to hold their Vest; which they shift so cleaverly, that the quickest Eye can discover nothing more than decent. At their coming up out of the Water they bestow their Largess of Rice or Doll (an Indian Bean) and the Brachmin his Benediction, by impressing a Mark answerable to their Casts on their Forheads; which is the way they live, purely on Benevolence.

Here they have Two Pagod [...] remaining,Two Pagods of excellent Loam. but defaced by the Moors: One of them, however, still shews a Crust of Plaster, with Images Antick enough, but of excellent durance and splendour, like Alabaster, made of a white Loam calcined, and then called Arras; which they powder and steep in Water Three or Four Years before it be fit for their purpose; the longer the better.

Here are many Monuments of their misled Zeal;The Burning of their Dead. the most dread­ful to remember, is an extraordinary one erected by the River side, where they Burn their Dead, in Honour of a Woman who Burnt her self with her dead Husband. Several Corps were Flaming in their Fu­neral Piles; which after the Fire has satisfied its self with, they cast the Ashes up into the Air, and some upon the Water; that every Element may have a share. Some of the Devoutest desire to ex­pire in this Water, giving in charge to their Relations to lay them up to the Chin in it at the Article of Death.

Those whose Zeal transport them no farther than to die at home,They carry them to Pul­parra. are immediately Washed by the next of Kin, and bound up in a Sheet; as many as go with him, carry him by turns on a Colt-staff; and the rest run almost naked and shaved, crying after him, Ram, Ram, making all the haste they can to Pulparra to Burn him; which Fire is often very costly, being maintain'd with Wood of Aloes; some­times they expend some Thousands of Rupees. The Relations ex­clude themselves all Society till the time of Mourning be over; the Women crying, O Si, O Si, beating their Breasts violently, and expostulating the reason of their Departure, as if he had not a kind Wife, loving Children, good Possessions, and the like: In the time of this Mourning they bestow largely to redeem Creatures appointed to Die, to excuse Oxen and Buffola's from Labour, feeding them at their own Charges, besides purchasing Milch Kine, and giving them [Page 102] to poor People, inviting them to Funeral Feasts, with other Lar­gesses to the Brachmins.

Here are out acted all the boasted Austerities I ever heard of;The Postures and Severities of the Hea­then Fakiers. I saw a Fakier of the Gentus, whose Nails by neglect were grown as long as my Fingers, some piercing through the Flesh. Another grave Old Man had a Turbat of his own Hair (which they all Covet) Sun-burnt towards the ends, Grey nearer the roots, Plaited like the Polonian Plica, but not so diseased, above Four Yards in Length.

Others with their Arms Dislocated so, that the [...] of the Joints is Inverted, and the head of the Bone lies in the pit or valley of the Arm; in which Case they are defrauded of their Nourishment, and hang as useless Appendices to the Body; that unless relieved by Charity, they are helpless in all Offices to themselves.

Others Fixing their Eyes upon Heaven, their Heads hanging over their Shoulders, are uncapable of removing it from the Posture they are in, being accustomed to that uninterrupted Rest, having con­tracted and stiffned the Tendons of the Muscles and Ligaments of the Neck, that both those belonging to the Gullet, or the motion of the Head, are unserviceable; insomuch that no Aliment, not Li­quid, can pass, and that too with much difficulty.

Others by continual Abstinence bring themselves into a strange Emaciated habit of Body, that they seem only walking Skelitons.

All of them go Naked (some plump young lusty Fellows) ex­cept their Privities, and bedawb themselves over with Ashes; who with their pleited Hair about their Heads, look like so many Maega­ra's; these wait on the others. The Ancientest of them addict them­selves to Reading, they live Six or Eight together, as they please; lie upon the Ground or a Matt, some of them in all Seasons abide the open Air.

At another time a Gentu Fakier was enjoined for Forty days to en­dure the Purgatory of five Fires; [...]aunth Augy, or the Pe­nance of Five Fires. there being a great resort by rea­son of a Festivity solemnized all that while; when I came early in the Morning (invited by the novelty and incredibility of the thing) he was Seated on a four-square Stage or Altar, with three Ascents, some Two Feet high, and as many Feet square, ready to shew: While he was in a musing posture, other Fakiers (whose Duty it is daily to salute the Sun at his Height, Rising, and Setting, with their Musick of long hollow Canes) blew them for an hour, or Ghong; after which he fell to his Mattins, which he continued till the Sun began to be warm; then rising he Blessed himself with Holy Water, and threw himself along on the lowest square, still muttering to himself on his Knees, he at length, with one Leg bowed upright between his Thighs, rises on the other, telling his Beads (which both Moormen and Gentus wear) which he had in his hands a quarter longer, and stands, like a Goose, unmoved all the time; then cast­ing himself down, he exercised himself, as Wrastlers do here, very briskly, but guarding the position of his Leg, which he kept so fixed as if it had grown in that nature, as well when he rose as gro­velled on the ground; acting thus a quarter more, it had the same operation as the Stork's Bill used for a Suppository, for it [Page 103] brought him to a Stool; he taking his Purifying-pot in his hand, marched on one side, where he tarried not long before he returning took up his Beads he had left; and in this Interim four Fires being kindled (any of them able to roast an Ox) at each Corner of the upper and least Square, he having finished some Fopperies with his Pot, Scaevola-like with his own hands he increased the Flames by ad­ding combustible Stuff as Incense to it; when removing from his Neck a Collar of great Wooden Beads, he made a Coronet of them for his Head; then bowing his Head in the middle of the Flames, as it were to worship, holding the other Beads in his hands, with his Head encircled between his Arms, his Face opposite to the Sun, which is the fifth Fire, he mounted his Body with his Feet bolt up­right, and so continued standing on his Head the space of three hours very steddily, that is, from Nine till Twelve; after which he seats himself on his Breech cross-legg'd after their way of sitting, and re­mains so without either eating or drinking all the rest of the Day, the Fires still nourished, and he sweating (being one of a good Ath­letick Habit, and of a Middle Age) as if basted in his own Grease.

This is imagined to be an Imposture;Whether it be an Imposture, but if it be, it would make a Man disbelieve his own Eyes: Others more rationally impute the Heat from the Fires to be allayed by that overpowering one of the Sun; which I cannot wholly incline to, since we daily when abroad roast our Meat by Fires made in a clear Day without any shelter: But I rather conceive Custom has inured his Body to it; for the very Mountebank Tricks declare it a Practice; and the other I think as feasible as to eat Fire, tread on Hot Irons, (which is here used), or for Cooks to thrust their hands into scalding Water without Injury.

Another Devote had made a Vow not to lye down in Sixteen Years,A Devote that had not sat down in six­teen years. but to keep on his Feet all that while; this came accompa­nied with two others under the same Oath, the one had passed Five, the other Three Years; all Three of them had their Legs swoln as big as their Bodies, with filthy running Ulcers, exposed to view for the greater Applause: Standing, they leaned on Pillows hung in a String from the Banyan Tree, and had a Pompous Attendance of such ragged Fakiers their Admirers, with Musick, Flags, and Mir­chals: The Eldest having undergone the compleat Term, to crown all, was intombed in the same standing Posture Nine Days without any sort of Food; and lest any Pretext of that kind might lessen his Undertaking, he caused a Bank of Earth to be heaped on the Mouth of his Cave, whereon was to be sown a certain Grain which ears in Nine Days, which accordingly being done, eared before his being taken thence. I saw him presently after his Resurrection, in great State raised on a Throne under a Canopy, before which was a Fire made in the Pit he had been, where he put his Hands, being anointed with Oyl, untouch'd by the Flames: Which whether this may dis­cover the Cheat of both this and the other, that such an Unction may be to resist Fire, Naturalists have not agreed in; and therefore I judge this rather a Delusion, I having not been present at this Ex­periment: But that this is none I am assured, That the Banyans gave him Divine Honours, and saluted him prostrate, offering before him Rice, and throwing Incense into the Fire: He had a Red Trident in [Page 104] his hand, and is enrolled one of the Heroes or Demi-Gods in their Superstitious Kalender.

From this place of Pulparra to Surat, a Row of Trees on each hand shade the way, it being constantly filled with all sorts of people either for Worship or Pleasure.

The only thing of Grandeur extant of the Devotion of the Anci­ent Heathens,A great Tank. is a great Tank without the Walls of Surat, a Mile in Circumference, walled all about with descending Stone Steps: In the middle an High Place of the Heathens: Many sumptuous Mauso­leums are erected near its Brink, with Aqueducts to convey Water, with which were it filled, the best Ship that swims in the Sea might ride in it: It looks now more like a Circus or Gymnaseum, able enough to contain as many as such Spectacles would delight. In their great Solemnities it is usual for them to set it around, with Lamps to the Number of two or three Lecgues, which is so many Hundred thou­sand in our Account.

The Citizens by the King's Favour have good store of Gardens neighbouring Surat; Gardens. the biggest of all is the Queen's, though some Private Men have neater, where we often go to take the Air, and feast in pleasant Choultries or Summer-Houses, spread after the Moors manner with Carpets, refreshed with various Figures of the Rising Water, out of several Spouts from square Tanks Pargetted. All the time of our durance here Water is sprinkled, to mitigate the Fieriness of the Sun.

Here are Grottoes descending also under Ground by huge Arches and Stone Steps shaded by Trees on each hand,Grottoes. till it come to the deep Well at bottom, from whence by Leathern Bags drawn upon Wheels by Oxen, the Water is carried up, and in Gutters streams about the Gardens.

In these by the help of a Brachmin skilled in Simples,The Cotton-Tree. I have found the Silk Cotton-tree, distinguished by us from the Vulgar beneficial one, by its being a Tree, the other a Shrub; it is most like a Maple in Leaf and Branch, only the Bark is not furrowed; it brings forth between three Leaves, first a Bud or Button, then a white Flower, last of all Seed about which the Cotton grows, in three distinct Cells an­swering the three Leaves.

As also the Plant of which Bang is made;Bang. it grows as our Hemp, the Juice of whose Seed ground in a Bowl like Mustard-seed, and mixed with any other Liquor, is that they equivocate with their Pro­phet instead of the Grape; and that which follows agrees to what Mr. Ray notes out of LOB in Ado: Lacustris aqua cui cannabis inta­buerit tantopere viro nocet, ut epotasit praesentissimo sitientibus veneno; this with Dutry (as has been said) is the inebriating Confection of the Post.

Here he discovered to me his beloved Alluh, Alluh. the Bark of a Tree, the present remedy against all manner of Fluxes.

Though these People delight much in Gardens,No great Va­riety of Flow­ers. yet are they but rude, compared to ours of Europe; they make a noble Entrance, a Banquetting-house in the middle eying the four Quarters of the Gar­den, beset with Trees like Wildernesses in every Quarter, or else planted with Potatoes, Yawms, Berenjaws, both hot Plants, and their [Page 105] Coolers, as Pompkins, Cucumbers, Gourds, and such like; they are only divided by Gravelly Walks and Water-courses; not curiously adorned with Flowers; Bismalvas and some Wall-flowers or Stock-Gillyflowers being the height of what they aim at: Only the Culga, so famed for the Silk, in imitation of its Paint, I take it for our Ama­rillis; and [...], or the Tree Mallow, which is red as Scarlet in the Morning, and at Noon faints into a pale Colour, and towards the Evening is pure white; some few Lysimachias, which besides their several sorts of Jessamins, is all the choice: Roses would grow here if they would but cultivate them.

A Mile from the City grows the humble Sensitive Plant,The Sensible Plant and Ar­bor de Rais. common in the Fields; Eastward of Surat, two Courses, i. e. a League, we pitched our Tent under a Tree, that besides its Leafs, the Branches bear its own Roots, therefore called by the Portugals, Arbor de Rais: For the Adoration the Banyans pay it, the Banyan Tree (by whom it is held as sacred as the Oak to our Old Druids); who paint it daily, and make Offerings of Rice, and pray to it: It has Leafs like an Ivy, and is the same with that at Johanna, only that was incorporated into one Body, and this by often taking Root is capable of overspread­ing a whole Field, so that it is said there are of them able to shade an Army of 30000 Horse and Men singly; however it is possible to be so contrived, if it be lookt after, to make a Wood alone of it self.

The Hedges and Lanes are chiefly set with two sorts of Bushes,Milk Bushes. called by us Milk-Trees, because of a succulent Juice like Spurge, white, and of the consistency of the best Milk; but if it comes near the Skin or Eyes it is not so benign, according to the Experience of the Famous Verulam, [Nat. Hist. Cent. 7. Exp. 39. Omnem succum lacti si­milem ex plantis incisis acrem esse.] and my Observation here; for if by chance it stick upon any part of the Body, it frets like an Escaro­tick; and I have seen an unruly Horse, rushing through it, both blind himself and Rider, both their Heads being swoln to an extraordinary bigness. I believe it to be a kind of Tithymal, quod tenerum lac non secus ac Manna effundit; the first sort of which has broader and jucier Leafs, and has four or five together; not jagged, but somewhat oval, a Finger's length, and half as broad; one only thick Stalk arises from the Root, and several Branches proceed from thence; they are all Green and Tender, springing up a Man's height, full of Prickles as our Carduus, of whose Milk inspissated is made Euphorbium. The other grows up into the Body of a Tree, and is Woody; above which it sends forth several tender smooth Stalks, which sprout out into Boughs seeming almost naked, because its Leafs are small, and come out at its Joints, sometimes singly; it is most like a Privet, very quick of Growth, and each of them make good Fences. The Goats despise it not, feeding, though very cautiously, on the Leafs and Branches of the latter, when the Heats have parched up the Grass and other Plants.

Before we leave the pleasant Fields for the dusty stinking Town,Sugar-Canes and Tobacco. Sugar-Canes and Tobacco would deserve our Remark, which are both plentifully thriving here; had not these been already the Subject of other Pens.

[Page 106] The next diverting Prospect must be that of the River; it glides by the Town in swift Tides,The River commodious for their Ships. and at Spring-Tides (which it would always do, were they industrious to keep it in its Banks) it bears Ships of 1000 Tun Burthen up to Surat Walls; but they unlade first, because of the Sands, occasioned by their Sloth. They lye very thick a Mile together, and scattering down to the River's Mouth, reckon­ing more than an Hundred Sail of good Ships, besides small Vessels: For all which they were beholden to the Poverty of some English Shipwrights, the first of whom received the deserved Reward of his Officiousness (being Scutica dignus) from the Moors, who appre­hending him stealing Customs, Chawbucked him handsomly.

The Dutch never permit the Natives to be taught any Eminent Art whereby they may become their Competitors:The Dutch teach the Na­tives nothing. Nor is it, I think, bet­ter Policy to instruct them in any beneficial Science, as that of Na­vigation, no more than one would an Adversary how to use his Wea­pons; which these, had they equal Courage to their other Advanta­ges of Strength and Nature, might easily thereby turn the Points of their Weapons upon us.

But for all these great Preparations,Their Navy. as yet they dare not venture out without Europe Passes, or Pilots; though some of their Ships carry 30 or 40 Pieces of Cannon, more for Shew than Service. Be­sides these Merchant-Men, here are Three or Four Men of War as big as Third Rate Ships: The other are Frigats fit to Row or Sail, made with Prows instead of Beaks, more useful in Rivers and Creeks, than in the Main. The Emperor also has four great Ships in Pay al­ways, to carry Pilgrims to M [...]echa on free Cost, and bring them back from Hodge, where they prove a Crew of sanctified Varlets.

The Heir of Bantam is now here to take his Passage thither in one of them,The young King of Ban­tam. with his Retinue, which are some of the Pengrims or Lords of the Country, his Unkle and others, which were about Twenty, with their Wives: He was first at Bombaim, where he was entertain­ed like a Prince, for the Obligation the Company have to their Trade there, he having been disobedient to the King his Father, and has not yet-shewed any kindness to the English, siding rather with the Dutch Interest to undermine the Old King, and settle them in the Pepper-trade, which afterwards will not be in his Power to redeem out of their hands: Here little notice is taken of him, they all being in miserable poor Habits, and he of little Credit, being a Giddyhead, were it not for the English Captain that brought him, a Confident of the Old King's, who furnishes him with Money but sparingly, he being indiscreet in his Expences. He is of the Java Extraction, short of Stature, broad-fac'd, little Eyes, and less Beard, a mere Boy; the rest wear their Beards like the Chineses, which is compa­ratively like a Cat's; their Heads shaved, covered only with Skull-Caps of Knit-Work, their Upper-Garments loose like a Frock: When they appear before him, they prostrate themselves along, then rising up with Respect, sit crouching on their Heels: Their Women were covered with dark Blue Sheets.

The Old King had retired from the Cares of Government,His Story. and com­mitted all to this his Son; but the Pengrims soon tired with his exor­bitant Sway, made Intercession for the Old King's reassuming his Au­thority; [Page 107] whereupon this Voyage was framed as an Expedient to set­tle his Mad Temper,Chap. III. being intrusted to the sober Conduct of the King's Brother.

These Vessels that are for this Voyage are huge unshapen things,Their Junks, and and bear both the Name and Model of their old Junks: They return usually very Rich, and are at their Arrival adorned most abundantly with Streamers. Their way of Salutes are with Even, as ours with Odd Guns.

The Seamen and Soldiers differ only in a Vowel,Seamen. the one being pronounced with an u, the other with an a; as Luscar is a Soldier; Lascar, a Seaman. The Captain is called Nucquedah, the Boatswain Tindal.

CHAP. III.
Of their Solemnities, Sports and Pastimes; their Marriages; of the Parseys, their Strength by Land and Sea, their abundant Wealth, and Fitness for Trade.

AND now having entertained you thus far, I shall continue to you the Circumstantial or Accidental Shews, together with their Sports and Exercises.

The first depends on the New Moon,Their New Moons. when, all Malice apart, the Moors embrace one another, and at the sight thereof make a Jubilee, by firing of Guns, blowing of Trumpets, Feasting and Praying ve­ry devoutly.

The next is the Day of the Week observed for the Great Mogul's Advancement to the Throne; which is not so generally kept, only by the Soldiers and Officers.

But that which affects them all,Ramazan o [...] Lent. is at the end of their Ramazan or Lent, which is always the first New Moon in November; which as it is observed with the greatest Strictness, not swallowing their Spittle all the Day of its Continuance, so is it celebrated when it concludes, with the highest Expression of Joy and Solemnity.

The Governor goes in Procession,Grandeur of their Gover­nor and Great Men. and bestows his Largess in his Passage to the Chief Place of Devotion, liberally scattering Rupees as Kings do Medals at their Coronations, waited on by all the Gal­lants of the Town: His Son first leading a Body of Horse of the Cavalry of the City; himself beginning the first File on the Left­hand, the place of highest Honour, it was as deep as the Street would admit, observing no Rank: After whom followed the Cazy, with Green Banners, with a Band of Foot of 100 Men; then the Cu­stomer with his Men and Colours, both carried in Palenkeens; whom followed the Mullahs and Merchants, without any distinction, some in Coaches, others in Palenkeens, with their large Troops of Serv [...] ­tors: Then five Elephants in Armour, with Banners supported by those that were in their Seats, capable of a dozen Sitters; they ma­nage them by one Rider sitting near his Neck, with an Iron Instru­ment [Page 108] a Cubit in length, the Point bended downwards as long as a Finger, ascribed by Livy to the Invention of that famous Leader's Brother Asdrubal, who seeing these Creatures of great Terror to the Enemy, but if taking an heedless Course were as liable to damage Friend as Foe, found out this Remedy; delivering a Graver to their Masters with an Hammer, ordered them to strike it with their main strength on the Juncture where their Head was fastned to their Neck, if they were unruly, whereby the great Bulk fell to the Ground. Magister fabrile scalprum, cum malleo inter aures positum, ipsâ in com­page quâ jungitur capiti cervix, quanto maximo poterat ictu adigebat, But afterwards they learned by striking on the Vertebra's of the Neck, to rule them; which Custom I see here maintained. After these came a Dozen Leopards on State-Hackeries with their Keepers, who train them up to hunting. At convenient distances the Trumpets sounded, and Camels of War with Patereroes on their Saddles, marched with a Pace laborious to the Guiders, giving them a Dis­ease not much different from a Gonorrhea. Here nothing was seen but Banners and Streamers, nor heard but Kettle-Drums and Trum­pets; after which followed the Governor in the middle of a Troop of Soldiers, all in Coats-of Mail and Headpieces, armed at all Points, both themselves and Horses; himself mounted on a little She-Ele­phant, with all the Trappings and Accoutrements of State. Et ad morem antiquum quo puberes filii & jam in virili togâ, comitabantur tri­umphantem patrem, quod etiam ex Livio appareat de Paulo loquente. Two or three Striplings (his own Children) rode smiling with him, who were very White respectively; the Governor himself being a Mogul, which is as much as Suffet in Arabic, from whence the Per­sian Emperor is called Suffee and this, Mogul, as being derived from the same Parent; as also are all those descended from them. In this State he rode to a Place set apart for this Day's Solemnity, out of the Walls, to the Queen's Garden-Gate, before which it stands, where after Prayers he receives the Compliments of the Grandees, and returns to Feast.

At this time the Walls of the City, and Towers of the Castle, wanted not their Adornments, being bestuck with bloody Ensigns, and smoking with Guns of Jubilee, as well as tooting with their Trumpets, and beating with their Drums; as the Jews on their Sabbaths, or their solemn Feast days were wont.

The New Moon before the New Year (which commences at the Vernal Equinox) is the Moors Aede, The Moors Aede. when the Governor in no less Pomp than before, goes to sacrifice a Ram or He-Goat, in re­membrance of that offered for Isaac (by them called Ishauh); the like does every one in his own House, that is able to purchase one, and sprinkle their Blood on the sides of their Doors.

About this time the Moors solemnize the Exequies of Hosseen Gos­seen, The Mourn­ing for Hosseen Gosseen. a time of ten days Mourning for two Unfortunate Champions of theirs, who perished by Thirst in the Deserts, fighting against the Christians: Wherefore every Corner of the Street is supplied with Jars of Water; and they run up and down like Furies in quest of these two Brethren, laying about with Swords, Clubs, and Staves, crying with that earnestness upon their Names, and dancing [Page 109] in such Antick Dances as resemble the Pyrrhical Saltation. Haec Ce­lebratio non omnino dissimilis ei generi exerceri solita à juvenibus armatis Lacedemoniae cum Patris Achillis rogum celebraret; that a sober Man could make no other judgment on them, than that they were di­stracted. This is done through the Streets, where if two Compa­nies encounter, they seldom part without bloody Noses; which Oc­casion being given like Esau's Intentions on the Day of his Father's Lamentation, to revenge himself on his Brother Jacob, has been the Cause why the Mogul has restrained it for the prevention of Out­rages; but yet his Mandate is not so valid to make them forsake it here: After Sun-set they eat, and fall to singing the Psalms of Doud, or David, in the most consonant Tone I have heard.

The last Day they prepare a couple of Coffins, and have a Man or two on Horseback all bestuck like our Man in the Almanack, with Arrows; these ride reeling, and ready to drop off their Horses for Faintness, till they come to the River, where they put the Coffins afloat with a loud Cry, and then returning, repeat with great Vene­ration their Names, and after this trim their Beards, wash and shift their Cloaths, (all this while worn negligently, as Mourners) and re­turn to their more beastly Vomit of Luxury, than this of more than Manly Fury.

This Religious Bigot of an Emperor Auren Zeeb, The Emperor a great Zealot for his Reli­gion. seeks not to sup­press it utterly, but to reduce the Celebration, to preserve their Me­mories by a pious Respect, suitable to the Gravity of the Moors: For, says he, hereby Opportunity is offered to the Cophers (Unbelievers) to think Musslemen favour the Lewd Worship of the Heathens; which is not only a Scandal to the Mahometan Religion, but an En­couragement to the Enemies thereof to persist in their own, whilst such Licentiousness is connived at in that which should be set as a Pattern for them to imitate: For even at this instant he is on a Project to bring them all over to his Faith, and has already begun by two se­veral Taxes or Polls, very severe ones, especially upon the Brachmins, making them pay a Gold Rupee an Head, and the inferior Tribes proportionable; which has made some Rajahs revolt, and here they begin to fly to the Portugal Countries, and Bombaim; though should they make a joint Resistance they are a thousand to one more than the Moguls can with an unanimous Contrivance fairly muster.

On an Eclipse of the Sun or Moon,How they be­have them­selves in E­clipses. the Moors are in a lamentable Plight, making a great Noise with Pots and Pans, and other noisy Instruments; not omitting their Prayers, fancying them prevalent to deliver them from their Travel. When the Heathens, instructed by their Brachmins, by a better Philosophy, declare to them the Day before the two great Luminaries are obscured by the Interposition of the Moon's, or Earth's Globe, that they may Fast, Wash, and Purify themselves for Twenty four Hours before the Eclipse happens, and all the time of its lasting; after which is past, they feast and bestow their Benevolence freely on the Brachmins, holding them for this their profound Knowledge, in mighty Admiration.

And though the Jollity and Pomp of the Heathens is much al­layed by the Puritanism and unlimited Power of the Moors, inso­much that they are wholly forbidden to Burn their Wives with the [Page 110] Husbands; yet must not the Indians be totally denied their Feasts, and chiefly that of their publick Nuptials, which comes in twice a Year; as the Atticks in their [...] in January and October, so these in the Months Fulgannau and Puxu, in January and March; to enjoy which times of Festivity, the Governor expects large Gratui­ties, which they collect as every one can afford; All which times they make Processions, and appear, (especially the Children and young Folks) in rich Dresses of Gold and Silver, Mitres on their Heads, and weighty Sashes about their Middles, bedawbed and stained all over with Saffron Colour; the Married Folks riding on Horseback, Palenkeens, and Coaches, splendidly adorned, drawn by Oxen, Goats, and Elks, Painted over with Saffron, their Horns tipped with Silver; Musick, Streamers, and Banners going before them, the Women Singing Epithalamiums, the Men, following, and a great Attendance with Pageants, Mirchals, and Kitsols, giving Pawn and Coco-Nuts frankly, as they pass.

The Ceremonies after Washing and Cleansing,Ceremonies in Marriage. conclude by their Sitting Two Hours Tied by the Neck, while the Priest Prays, the Woman being then Manacled with Gold or Silver Shackles about her Wrists and Ankles, a white Sheet being held over them Unvailed, a Coco Nut exchanged to confirm the Bargain, and Corn scattered upon them; all Emblems of the Matrimonial Bands, Chastity and a firm resolution to comply with one anothers Fortunes; and then dismis­ses them, by sprinkling Water on the Married Couple, that they may Increase and Multiply. The Women are never Married more than once, the Men are under no such Obligation.

The first New Moon in October, Dually of the Heathen. is the Banyans Dually, a great Day of Celebration to their Pagan Deities, when they are very kind­hearted, presenting their Masters with Gifts, as knowing they shall be no Losers, and Entertain one another with mutual Mirth and Banquetting.

The next Moon their Women flock to the Sacred Wells;The Women, have a time of Freedom. where, they say, it is not difficult to persuade them to be kind, supposing their Pollutions not to remain after their Washing in these Holy Waters.

March begins with a Licentious Week of Sports and Rejoycing,Feast of Flies. wherein they are not wanting for Lascivious Discourse, nor are they to be offended at any Jest or Waggery. And to shew their Benefi­cence at the beginning of the Rains, they Treat the Ants and Flies with Sweatmeats and Wafers, studiously setting Hony, Syrups, or any thing that may entice them to their own death, out of their way; allowing them Sugar, or any other dried Confects for their Repast, instead of them.

They are constant Benefactors to the Dogs,Hospitable to Dogs. which are many, the Bitches littering in the Streets; but avoid touching them, as they would an Holencore, whom if their Garments chance to brush, they hie them home, Shift, and Wash.

And now we enter upon the Agonalia, Their Exerci­ses, or Recre­ations. first of the Moors: They love to outdo one another in Feats of Activity, as Riding full speed, and to stop with a Jerk, or motion of the Body, their Horses be­ing well managed; Tilting and Greeding, that is, Casting of [Page]

[Page] [Page 111] Darts, both for Utility and Recreation; Shooting with Bows and Arrows, which is near at hand, not far off, as we at Rovers; Running on Foot, which belongs to the Pattamars, the only Foot-posts of this Country, who Run so many Courses every Morning, or else Dance so many hours to a Tune called the Patamars Tune, when they labour as much as a Lancashire Man does at Roger of Coverly, or the Taran­tula of their Hornpipe; these wear Feathers in their Turbats.

The Wrestlers Anoint with Oil,Wrestling. and are Naked, only a Belt about their Wastes, in which they weary one another only by pure Strength and Luctation, not by Skill or Circumvention; these two last use Opium to make them perform things beyond their strength; and it is incredible to think how far these will Travel before the vir­tue of it be worked off.

Hunting of Tigers is sometimes a Pastime,Hunting. at others a Tragy-Co­medy; for besetting a Wood where Tigers lurk, with Men and Hor­ses, and putting a Set of their loud Musick to strike up in the middle of it; they rouze at the unaccustomed Noize, and rushing forth seize the first in their way, if not Shot or Launced, to prevent them: Wild Bulls and Buffola's are as dangerous, nor is the Boar less fierce than any of them.

Antilopes are set upon by Leopards on this wise; they carry the Leo­pards on Hackeries, both for less suspicion, and to give them the advan­tage of their Spring; which if they lose, they follow not their Prey, be­ing for a surprize; wherefore the Hackeries wheel about at a distance, till they come near enough to apprehend them, they feeding fearless of the Hackeries; then with three or four Leaps, after a small Chace, seize them, and easily become their Masters.

The Great Men have Persian Greyhounds, which they Cloathe in Cold Weather, and some few Hawks; a Colum may be Hunted with a Greyhound, as we do Bustards, being a great Fowl and long in Rising.

Buffola's animated by their Keepers,Buffola's and Rams set to Fight. fight with great fury; their Horns, being reversed, are useless; but they knock Foreheads with a force adequate to such great Engines, till they are all of a gore, and follow their blow with such vigour, that the strength of their Backs exert themselves into their Natural Parts, which they brandish as if stimulated to Venery; the stronger will hardly permit the weaker to go back to return with his force, but pressing on him, endeavours to bear him down; thus foiling one another, they are a long time before they will yield.

Persian Rams set together in this manner, are not parted without a bloody Catastrophe, which are kept on purpose for the sport of their Great Men; as likewise are Elephants, who engage at the Will of their Masters.

Here are no Gladiators, but at Cudgels they will play as at Back­sword, till they warm one another.

The chief Pleasure of the Gentiles, The Master­piece of the Banyans. or Banyans, is to Cheat one another, conceiving therein the highest Felicity, though it be Cuckolding, which they are expert at. They will play at Chess, or Tables; but their utmost Fewds are determined by the dint of the Tongue, to scold lustily, and to pull one anothers Puc­keries, [Page 112] or Turbats off, being proverbially termed a Banyan Fight.

Nevertheless they are implacable till a secret and sure Revenge fall upon their Adversary, either by maliciously plotting against their Life, by clancular Dealings, or Estate, by unlawful and unjust Extor­tions: Then you shall have them with this Prayer in their Mouths,

Example is more than Precept,Education of Youth. and the Youth have no other Edu­cation besides their Parents, more than some mean Pedagogue's, who teaches the Children first their Letters or Cyphers on the Ground, by writing on the Dust with their Fingers, which is their Primer; where when they are perfect, they are allowed a Board plastered over, which with Cotton they wipe out, when full, as we do from Slates or Table-Books; when they arrive to Paper, they are presumed to be their Crafts-masters, and to earn it.

The Moors, The sloth of the Moors a whet to the Banyans. who are by Nature slothful, will not take pains; being proud, scorn to be taught; and jealous of the Baseness of Mankind, dare not trust their Children under tuition, for fear of Sodomy; whereby few of their Great Men or Merchants can read, but keep a Scrivan of the Gentues: On which account it is the Banyans make all Bargains, and transact all Money-business; and though you hear, see, and understand them, yet you shall be choused, they looking you in the face; for as a piece of Superstition, they must put their Hands under a Ramerin, or Mantle, when by their Fingers they instruct one another, and by that slight often contradict their Tongues: Such a subtile Generation is this, and so fitly squared a Place is Surat to ex­ercise their Genius in.

In February the Bussorah Ships,All the World brings Trea­sure to India. and in August the Juddah Fleet from the Red Sea, each of which, beside our Europe Ships, export vast quantities of Indico, Cotton, Cotton-Yarn, and Silks; and vend them to the Caphalay, waiting on them over-land; so that returning, they are forced to ballast their Ships with Dates, Persian and Arabian Drugs; and freight with Horses from each Place: But the main is brought back in Gold, Silver and Pearl, which does in a manner center here: For though it circulates all the World over, yet here it is hoorded, Regis ad exemplum, both by King and People, he having Tanks thereof unsealed for many Ages, and the Gentiles hide it for Eternity. So that though it be not of the growth of this Country, yet the innate Thrift of the Gentiles, and the small occasion of Fo­reign Expences, and this humour of laying up their Talent in a Nap­kin, buries the greatest part of the Treasure of the World in India: There being a far greater urgency for Cloathing, than that of Super­fluity; which is the Spice-Trade of the South Seas, which only pays for what it carries off here, all the rest loading their Beasts without the Money returned in their Sacks Mouths; and for all that the Hollanders return Money from hence, yet it is swallowed up again [Page 113] by the Trade of the Bay, and a great deal more consumed there for their fine Cloath.

This Year the Bussorah Fleet brought the Bassa of that Place hi­ther,The Bassa of Bussorah. who is now encamped on a pleasant Green by the River's side; the Great Mogul condescending to have the Title of Sanctuary to the Distressed inserted among his other Aiery ones, as King of the World where-ever the Sun shines, being the Inscription on his Rupees in Persian Characters (the Court Langague.)

For which sake he dispatched Five hundred Horsemen, and Three hundred Camels, to receive the Bassa, his Family and Retinue, ashore; who being Governor in Mesopotamia for the Grand Seignior, grew powerful, and was therefore suspected; which drew the Forces of the Sultan his Master upon him; but knowing the Sea open, he sues to the Mogul for Protection, who promised not only to receive him, but imploy him honourably; and as a Testimony of his sincere In­tentions, has sent these to attend him to Court.

The Trade of Jewellers is no small addition to the Profit of this Town,Their Jew­ellers may be improved. which I shall not now specify, intending to treat of them apart, both for yours and my own satisfaction, together with a ge­neral Collection of Coins and Weights, as time and opportunity shall make me better acquainted: In the mean time, telling you what I saw at the House of an Hindu that wrought in Coral, where was to be wondred the Tools he worked with, more than his Art, because we see it surpassed in Europe; but with far more invention of Instru­ments: Here Hands and Feet being all the Vice, and the other Tools unshapen bits of Iron: From whence I went the same day to a Moor­man that cuts all sorts of Stones, except Diamonds, with a certain Wheel made of Lacre and Stone ground and incorporated, only to be had at Cochin, and there the Name is known.

They cut Diamonds with a Mill turned by Men, the String reach­ing, in manner of our Cutlers Wheels, to lesser that are in a flat Press, where under Steel-wheels the Diamonds are fastned; and with its own Bort are worn into what Cut the Artist pleases: These are sold most in the Country, they coming short of the Fringies in Fancy; wherefore they are sent rough into Europe, where they are both set and cut to more advantage.

A Banyan that seemingly is not worth a Gosbeek (the lowest Coin they have) shall pull out of his Puckery some thousand Pounds­worth of these for sale; when all the Wariness in the World is re­quired, and so I dismiss them.

This City is very nasty by their want of Privies,The City kept nastily. and their ma­king every Door a Dunghill; yet never had they any Plague, the Heats evaporating, and the Rains washing this Filth away.

The Diseases reign according to the Seasons;The Diseases. the North blowing, Bodies are rendered firm, solid and active by exhausting the Serous Humours, ad Hyp. 17. Aph. Lib. 3. for which cause Dry Weather is [Page 114] more healthy than Moist, it hastening Digestion, and facilitating Excretion, when no Fevers that are treacherous root themselves in a deep Putrefaction. About the Variable Months they are miserably afflicted with Coughs and Catarrhs, Tumors of the Mouth and Throat, Rheumatisms, and intermitting Fevers; Also Small Pox invades the Youth, as in all India, so here: In the extreme Heats, Cholera Morbus, Inflammations of the Eyes by Dust and the fiery Tem­per of the Air: In the Rains, Fluxes, Apoplexies, and all Distempers of the Brain, as well as Stomach; to correct which, the Natives eat Hing, a sort of liquid Assa Foetida, whereby they smell odiously. For all Lethargick Fits they use Garlick and Ginger, given in Oyl or Butter.

To Cup they use Ventosoes, Remedies out­ward and in­ward. without Scarifications. They have good Escaroticks and Vesicatories, made by a certain Nut, the same they chop or mark their Calicuts black with instead of Ink.

They apply Cauteries most unmercifully in a Mordisheen, called so by the Portugals, being a Vomiting with a Loosness; the like is done in a Calenture.

Physick here is now as in former days, open to all Pretenders; here being no Bars of Authority, or formal Graduation, Examination or Proof of their Proficiency; but every one ventures, and every one suf­fers; and those that are most skilled, have it by Tradition, or former Ex­perience descending in their Families; not considering either altera­tion of Tempers or Seasons, but what succeeded well to one, they apply to all.

In Fevers their Method is to prescribe Coolers, till they have ex­tinguished the Vital Heat; and if the Patients are so robust to con­quer the Remedies used to quench the Flame of the Acute Disease, yet are they left labouring under Chronical ones, as Dropsy, Jaun­dice, and Ill Habits, a long while before they recover their Pri­stine Heat.

They are unskill'd in Anatomy, even those of the Moors who fol­low the Arabians, thinking it unlawful to dissect Human Bodies; whereupon Phlebotomy is not understood, they being ignorant how the Veins lye; but they will worry themselves Martyrs to death by Leeches, clapping on an hundred at once, which they know not how to pull off, till they have filled themselves, and drop of their own accord.

Chirurgery is in as bad a plight, Amputation being an horrid thing: Yet I confess it is strange to see, that what Nature will effect on such Bodies, Intemperance has not debauch'd.

Pharmacy is in no better condition; Apothecaries here being no more than Perfumers or Druggists, at best; for he that has the bold­ness to practise, makes up his own Medicines, which are generally such Draughts, that if their own Energy work not, yet the very Weight must force an Operation.

They pretend to understand the Pulse, but the Urine they will not look on.

I have seen a Barber undertake the Cure of a Bloody Flux, by pretending the Guts were displaced, and laying the Patient on his Back, and gently tickling his Reins, thrust on each side the Abdo­men [Page 115] with all his strength; then placing a Pot filled with dried Earth, like that of Samos, upon his Navel, he made it fast by a Ligature; and on some Bodies thus treated he had gained Credit, but this died. Prosper Alpinus mentions something like this among the Egyptians.

Here they will submit to Spells and Charms, and the Advice of Old Women.

Here is a Brachmin Doctor who has raised a good Fortune; they pretend to no Fees, but make them pay in their Physick; and think it Honour enough if you favour them with the Title of your Phy­sician only.

This Brachmin comes every day,The Country Physician. and feels every Man's Pulse in the Factory, and is often made use of for a Powder for Agues, which works as infallibly as the Peruvian Bark; it is a Preparation of Na­tural Cinnaber. Midwifry is in esteem among the Rich and Lazy only; the Poorer, while they are labouring or planting, go aside as if to do their Needs, deliver themselves, wash the Child, and lay it in a Clout or Hammock, and return to work again.

The Mixture of Casts or Tribes of all India are distinguished by the different Modes of their binding their Turbats;The several Tribes how known. which cannot be found out presently, there being such variety of Observation.

Amidst which it is time to return,The English have the Re­spect of their Ombra [...]s. to see what Grace we are in among this divided Multitude: Our Usage by the Pharmaund (or Charter) granted successively from their Emperors, is kind enough, but the better, because our Naval Power curbs them; otherwise they being prone to be imperious, would subjugate us, as they do all others that are harness'd with the Apron-strings of Trade: Suppo­sing us then to bear the Face of Ministers of State, as well as the sly Visage of Mechanicks, they depose something of their Ferity, and treat with us in a more favourable Stile; giving us the Preference before others here resident, and look on us with the same Aspect as they do on their great Ombrahs.

In Town there are many private Merchants that bear a Port equal to our Europe Companies, being only Vockeels or Factors for mo­ney'd Men up the Country, that drive as great a Trade as the Com­pany, yet dare not assume that Liberty allowed us: We fortify our Houses, have Bunde [...]s or Docks for our Vessels, to which belong Yards for Seamen, Soldiers, and Stores: To that which belongs to the Dutch is a sweet Garden, shor'd up with Timber from the in­croaching River, with Arbors and Beds after the Europe Mode.

Among the Rarities of our own House I saw an Unicorn's Horn,What Rarities in the English House. not that of the Rhinoceros, of which Cups are made and profered for Sale here, and are relied on to discover Poyson, if poured into them.

As also two Skins of Saboean Asses, highly valued among the Eastern Princes both for their Swiftness and Beautifulness, being streaked [Page 116] with a dark Grey upon a White Ground, upon the Back direct, in other Parts waving towards their length: As also Pigeons tumbling in the Air, attributed to the Indisposition of their Brain; but to me it appears a voluntary Action, they not falling at all upon it, but after three or four Turns would fly, and repeat it as often as they listed, without any interruption in their Course, and when they seem­ed to direct themselves to any place, without any Inclination to it, as an Irregularity, but rather out of Affectation; which notwith­standing cannot be taught any, but only those of this kind; no more than any other besides Carriers, (which were here with blubber'd Noses, and of a Brown Colour) to carry Letters: Others walked on the Ground, with their Breasts bearing out, and the Feathers of their Tails spreading like Turkies, bridling their Heads so that they were even with their Rumps; this also is a peculiar Species, and not Artificial; they propagate their own kind, and are of a pied Colour.

From Siam are brought hither little Champore Cocks with ruffed Feet, well armed with Spurs, which have a strutting Gate with them, the truest mettled in the World; they are generally White, with an Eye of Yellow. Here were Milk-White Turtles from Bus­sorah, Cockatooas and Newries from Bantam, as also a Cassawar that digests Iron.

From Amidavad small Birds, who, besides that they are spotted with White and Red no bigger than Measles, the principal Chorister beginning, the rest in Consort, Fifty in a Cage, make an admirable Chorus.

And also for Vermin, the strongest huge Rats, as big as our Pigs, which burrow under the Houses, and are bold enough to venture on Poultry, and make them their Prey: A Mongoose is a-kin to a Ferret: Spuirrels delicately streaked White and Black, run about the House, and on top of Terrasses. Musk-Rats of the same Colour, short­feeted, but a Span in length, their Bodies no thicker than a Mouse; they infest the Houses and Water-Jars with their Scent; from which last all Care is taken to preserve them. Guiana, a Creature like a Cro­codile, which Robbers use to lay hold on by their Tails when they clamber Houses.

For Insects,Venomous Creatures. Centipedes, Scorpions, and vast Spiders; these lye perdue, and often set upon People unawares; for the Venom of the two former, they have Oyl made of each; the first is the worst, and often deadly; the other works off after a burning Fit of Four and twenty hours. Abroad in the Fields and Rivers are poysonous Snakes; and here was lately a Woman, as she went to fetch Water at the River, devoured by an Aligator or Crocodile, though the Brachmins pretend to Charm them that they shall do no Mischief in this their Sacred River; and this was given out to be a Judgment not otherwise to be expiated.

And now the Dutch Fleet being arrived at the River's Mouth (after having demolished the City St. Thomas, The Surat Go­vernor forced to comply with the Dutch. near Fort St. George, the French yielding on Discretion), they restored us the Prisoners taken in the Engagement, having treated them very civilly: And the Governor was forced to go from Surat to Swally (to the Dutch [Page 117] Commodore, removed thither) to intreat an Agreement; the Cla­mours of the Merchants being instant, the Bussorah Fleet was in jeopardy, which they threatned to seize; but on his Appearance, and Assurance of Satisfaction, all was salved. Lest therefore this should be judged too mean a Compliance, he paid a Visit with all his Pomp to our Deputy-President, still at Swally, though the Eu­rope Ships were gone, others from the South-Seas being expected.

Thus repassing the River after this Great Man, in order to repair aboard Ship, I beheld whole Droves of all Sexes and Ages coming to wash in the River, which is done twice a day; and the Finest Dames of the Gentues disdained not to carry Water on their heads, with sometimes two or three Earthen Pots over one another for Houshold service; the like do all the Women of the Gentiles.

On this side the Water are People of another Off-spring than those we have yet mentioned;The Parseys. these be called Parseys, who were made free Denizens by the Indians before the Moors were Masters, and have continued to Inhabit where they first set Footing, not being known above Forty Miles along the Sea-coast, nor above Twenty Mile Inland. It is likely these upon the overflow of the Scythians, and their Irruption into Persia, were driven from thence as Fugitives to seek fresh Habitations; which, those furnished with Boats from the Persian Gulf, might easily escape thither; where they comply­ing with some Propositions, as not to Kill any Beasts or living Crea­tures, and Conform to many of the Gentue Ceremonies, were Enter­tained and allowed to live among them.

Since the Moors have Subdued the Country, they think themselves not obliged by the former Capitulation, they Feeding on both Fish and Flesh; and for that reason were in hopes of exemption from the present Poll, pretending their Law agreeable to the Moors, but that would not free them from the Tax. These drink Wine, and are of the Race of the Ancient Persians.

They Worship the Sun,Worship the Sun. and keep at Nunsarry, a Delubrium, where is always a Fire (first kindled by the Sun) kept alive as the Holy Vestal Nuns were wont; they Adore all the Elements, and if at any time they go a Voyage, will not exonerate in the Sea, or on the Water, but have Jarrs on purpose; if their Houses be on fire, they quench them not with Water, rather chusing to load them with Dust or Sand.

These Bury not their Dead,They expose their Dead to Ravenous Fowls. but expose them in round Tombs made on purpose, (open on top, and walled high around, in distinct Apar­titions) to the Vultures and ravenous Fowls to Entomb them; and to that end, in the middle of this Enclosure is a Well for the Filth to drain away; the next of Kin, after the Body is put in, Watch aloof, to know what Part these Birds of Prey lay hold on, and from thence make their report of the future Bliss, or ill State of the Deceased.

These are somewhat Whiter,Their manner of Living. and, I think, Nastier than the Gen­tues; and Live, as they do, all of a Family together; as if the Fa­ther be Living, then all the Sons that are Married, and Men grown, with their Wives and Children, house it with the Father, and have a Portion of his Stock; if he die, or be absent, the Eldest Brother [Page 118] has the Respect of the Father shewn, and so successively; they all Rising up at his Appearance, and Sit not till he be Seated.

These are rather Husbandmen than Merchants, not caring to stir abroad; they supply the Marine with Carts drawn by Oxen, the Ships with Wood and Water; the latter of which is excellent, drawn out of a Well at old Swally; where, and at others, the Women put me in mind of Jacob's Well, and the Custom of old for them to draw Water, which though here it is fetch'd up by Oxen, yet elsewhere the Women draw in Jarrs, or Earthen Pots. The Moors have it brought on Buffola's Backs, or else on Oxen; which here also they use, as all over India, instead of Pack-horses, their greatest Caphala's consisting of them, Horses being only for War or Pleasure, and the best of them Foreigners, and of great Prices; so that 300 l. is but an easy Rate for a good Persian or Arab.

Here are brought up large gallant Milk-White Oxen with Circling Horns,Large Milk-White Oxen. artificially Modelled in Cases, which they Tip with Silver, Gold, or Brass, and make them shine like Jet; putting a Rope through their Nostrils, and an Headstal on them of London Cloath, sur­rounding their Necks with Collars for Bells, Feeding them delicately as their Horses; and one of these fitted for a Coach, will Sell for 30 or 40 l. The other Oxen are Little, but all have a Bunch on their Neck; and how they become Oxen is on this manner; Their Religion not allowing them to Castrate them, they Bruise their Testicles, not Geld them by Cutting them off when Young; which answers the intention as fully as the other. This kind of re­straint upon Nature is exercised on no Brutes but these, they never offering to deprive their Horses of their Stones or Tails, which they alway suffer to grow; a Bobtailed Nag, or Gelding, being as rare here, as a Crop-eared Horse, which never was seen.

A Buffola is of a Dun Colour,A Buffola. and are all as big as their largest Oxen; they love to wallow in the Mire like an Hog; there are of them Wild, which are very Fierce and Mischievous, Trampling a Man to Death, or Moiling him to Pieces with their Foreheads; their Horns are carelesly turned with Knobs around, being usually so ordered, or rather disordered (for they retain no certain Form) that they lie too much over their Heads to do any harm with them. Their Flesh is reckon'd Hotter and Courser than Beef, which is the most com­mon Sustinence of the Moors; as their Milk and boiled Butter is of the Gentues; for did they not boil their Butter, it would be Rank, but after it has passed the Fire, they keep it in Duppers the year round: On which D^r. N. G. in his Account of the Rarities of the Royal Society, has sufficiently enlarged.

Here in the Marshes are brought up great store of Cattle of all sorts;The Marshes breed Cattle. and though there lie store of Aligators to and again, they are seldome known to Prey either on them or their Young; so that what stir they make of Charming them, is but a pious Fraud of the Brachmins, they being a lazy sort of Amphibious Creature, feeding on Grass as well as Fish, and I question whether ever their Appetite stand towards Flesh.

The Mutton here is not much inferior to the Mutton of England, for the Pallat, though as to its Wool, there is no compare. Cows [Page 119] Butter sometimes will be hard in the Cold Season, and look yellow, but they arrive not to the making of Cheese, unless it be soft Cheese, which pickled, our Seamen keep a good while, as they do their Achars.

Here grow Carrots,The Growth of this Place. Turnips, Rhadishes; Cabbage rarely, though Coleworts frequently; Melons of all sorts, and Betes: Wheat as good as the world affords; Rice, Barley, Millet, and Nuchanny; Pease and Beans; Oyl-Trees, and Rape for Lamp Oyl; (only Wax-Candles for the Rich, by reason of the warmth being to be used).

Herbs for Salading are Purslain, Sorrel, Lettice, Parsley, Taren­tine, Mint, and Sog, a sort of Spinach.

Here Asparagus flourish, as do Limes, Pomegranates, Geni­tins; Grapes in abundance; but the Moors suffer no Wine to be made.

Fish, Oisters, Soles, and Indian Mackerel, the River yields very good, and the Pools and Lakes store of Wild Fowl; peculiarly Brand-Geese, Colum, and Serass,The Colum­bin [...]. a Species of the former; in the Cold Weather they shunning the Northern rigid Blasts, come yearly hither from Mount Caucasus; what is worth taking notice of, is their Aspera Arteria, wound up in a Case on both sides their Breast­bone in manner of a Trumpet, such as our Waits use; when it is single it is a Serass, when double a Colum, making a greater Noise than a Bittern, being heard a great while before they can be seen, flying in Armies in the Air.

As we came nearer Swally, Wine and Strumpets set the Soldiers and Seamen together by the Ears. Groves of Brabb-Trees present them­selves; from whence the Parseys draw Wine a kin to Toddy, which after the Sun is up, contracts an Eagerness with an heady Quality; so that these places are seldom free from Soldiers and Seamen of the Moors, which sometimes meeting with ours, there happen bloody Frays, especially if the Quarrel be about Strumpets, who here ply for their Fares: The like disputes are sometimes among the Euro­peans themselves, and then they make sport for the Parseys upon the Trees, who have the diversion of the Combatants; as Boxing among the English; Snicker-Sneeing among the Dutch; ripping one anothers Bellies open with short Knives; Duelling with Rapiers among the French; Sword and Dagger among the Portugals.

Coming to the Marine,Four Arab Ships. beside the Dutch Fleet and English Ships, were Four Arabs with Red Colours, like Streamers, Riding in the Hole. These are true Rovers both by Sea and Land; they are con­stantly upon the Plunder with the Portugals, but care not to engage where nothing is to be gotten but Blows, wasting those Places that lie most open on the Sea-coast and Unguarded.

These have lately fitted themselves with good stout Ships at Surat, their own Country supplying them with no Materials for Building; the non-payment whereof, according to the Contract with the Go­vernor, at present has put a stop to their increase that way in Ship­ping; and has kindled matter for farther alarming the Merchants: For the Governor, for his security, has seised the Imaum's Vockeel, nor intends he to enlarge him till the uttermost Gosbeek be paid.

[Page 120] On this Pretence they begin to interrupt the Merchants on the Seas, seising their Vessels, and furnishing themselves at cheaper Rates.

Nor does their late Enterprize over the Portugals make them less formidable; so that if they be not checked by these Knights of Lisboa, they will infect this Ocean, no less than the Moors of Algiers, Tunis and Tripoly, do the Narrow Seas in the Mediterranean, especially the Gulf of Persia, in whose Mouth they are conveniently seated, and villainously inclined; in which it concerns them to omit no Dili­gence.

Having staid here since the close of the Rains,Left Surat and Swally. all the Cold Season, and beginning of the variable Winds, which are sent hither to qualify the Heats before the fall of the Rains (they blowing very high) I left the most frequented Port in India, and the only one on this Coast the Mogul has.

It is a Corporation exempt from any Jurisdiction but the Empe­ror's; though it be but the second City of the Province, and within this last Century, by the concourse of the Europeans, advanced from a Fishing Town to be so great an Empory.

Ro Neal, a Mile beyond it on Swally side, was once before it, now abandoned to Seamen and Washermen: The Customers then paid half to the Portugals, who once a-year came with their Provoes and received their Levies; since this is become of more note, it is better looked after by the Mogul, than that was by the Emperor of Cambaia.

It has for its Maintainance the Incomes of Thirty six Villages; over which the Governor sometimes presides, sometimes not, being in the Jaggea or Diocess of another; who fail not once a-year to send to reap the Profit, which is received by the Hands of the Desie or Farmer, who squeezes the Countryman, as much as the Governor does the Citizen: Corn being distributed among them for so much Earth as they Till, which at the time of Harvest is not carried home, before the Desie hath taken Three parts, leaving no more for their pains, and to sow the Land again, than One.

The Business of the Customs, as we have already said, is ordered by the Chief Customer, who has Chockies in all Inland Parts to re­ceive Toll, and is responsible to none, only the Emperor.

To govern the Province,Mahmud Emir Caun, Son of Emir Jemla, Governor of the Province. Mahmud Emir Caun is entrusted, the Son of Emir Jemla, who established Aurenzeeb in his Throne.

His Metropolis is at Amidavad, the Chief City of Guzerat: Who notwithstanding he has vast Forces, Wealth and Territories, is not able to quell the Coolies from pilfring, Seva Gi from plundring, and the Outlawed Raspoots from dispoiling, where-ever they please to descend in Companies from the Mountains, or Troops out of the Desart of Sinda: Though none of these, nor all joined together, can cope with him in a pitched Field, but only by Thievery and Surprize: Wherefore when any Caphala or Treasure passes, they hire Soldiers to guard it, otherwise they are liable to be made a Prey.

Were these Difficulties removed, Surat, as if Nature had designed her both by Sea and Land the Seat of Traffick, would have nothing to hinder her from being the compleatest Mistress thereof in the [Page 121] whole World:Chap. IV. If the Disposition of the People be considered, what Masters they are of this Faculty, of Buying at small, and Vending at great Rates, both Native and Exotick Wares! The sordid Penury of the Banyans that live poorly and meanly, yet worth a King's Exche­quer; and notwithstanding the Governor often finds occasion to fleece them, yet by the quickness of Merchandise passing thorough this City, they recruit on a suddain.

The commodiousness of the River serving to bring Goods in from Europe, Asia, Africa and America; the long continued Current from the Inland parts through the vast Wildernesses of huge Woods and Forests, wafts great Rafts of Timber for Shipping, and Building; and Damar for Pitch, the finest sented Bitumen (if it be not a Gum or Rosin) I ever met with.

And if the King's Fleet be but ordinary, considering so great a Monarch and these Advantages, it is because he minds it not; he contenting himself in the enjoyment of the Continent, and styles the Christians Lions of the Sea; saying that God has allotted that Un­stable Element for their Rule.

They have not only Cair-Tarn made of the Cocoe for Cordage, but good Flax and Hemp; and Iron from the Mountains of the South: So that it may be concluded, for the Benefit of an Harbour, for the Dispositions of the Natives, for a convenient Supply (or more truly Abundance) of all things, for a due imployment of them; but above all, for the Commodities Exported, and the Riches Im­ported, Surat cannot be fellowed in India.

CHAP. IV.
Brings me with a New Deputy-Governor from Surat to Bom­baim, and sends me to the Mogul's General at Jeneah.

THE Fourth of April 1675. arriving at Bombaim with Mr. Gyf­ford, he was reinstated Deputy-Governor of that Island; Captain Shaxton in this interim having his Sword demanded from him by the Governor, and had been under Confinement; being bound to answer an Indictment, wherein he was accused of Abet­ting the Mutinous Soldiers.

For whose Trial,Captain Shax­ton sent home. after a long endeavour to bring him to acknow­ledgment, was erected a select Court of Judicature, and an Attorny ordered to impeach him, who with some borrowed Rhetorick en­deavoured to make him appear a Second Catiline; but he cleared himself so handsomely of all Objections (being sick at that time the Stirs were, and having no reference to him, their Complaints being of another nature, as the taking Money for more than could be pas­sed current again, and other like pretended Exactions) that they had no more to answer, than that it should be referred to the Company; before whom he must personally appear, and therefore was ordered home, but was prevented by Death at the end of his Voyage: Other­wise [Page 122] he would have made it plain, Envy had underhand worked, what she durst not attempt boldly on a Man of Honour; and for no other Reason, than that he understood himself as a Soldier, and in that point would be known.

By this Man's Misfortune might have been seen the dislike that the Company's Servants bear towards any of equal poise with themselves, and not of that Rank; for thereby they count they are injured, having others put over their heads, as 'tis termed; but if by chance they convince them of their Folly, it becomes a Crime un­pardonable: The first ground of this Quarrel being upon unnecessary Appendices to the Fort, as Pallisadoes in Mud, so contrived, that they were rather a means to take than defend it, which afterwards were all washed away by the Rains; to these some Despight being added (he being a Man sharp in his Jests, and blunt in Counsel) it never ended, till it proved as fatal as Remus's leaping over his Bro­ther Romulus his Ditch, cast for a Trench about Old Rome.

Few days had been spent afore a Sea-Tortoise was brought to the Fort,A Sea-Tortoise taken. in Length Six Feet, the content of his Hut near two Bushels, reckoning only that part with which his Back is shielded, being an huge Shell of a brown Colour; never to be made transparent as those come from the South-Seas are, nor easily to be crackt by any weight; for Experiment, I and two more got upon it, and the Tortoise un­concerned carried us: Its Head is loricated with Scales, the Neck reaching as far as the Hut, soft and undefensible; the Fins are four, placed instead of Legs, by which it crawls as well as swims; the Belly is covered with a Breast-plate called the Callapee, soft and whitish in respect of the Back-piece or Callipet; its Tail is short and wreathed like a Serpent's; altogether it is as lovely as a Toad: It sighs like a Woman, and weeps like a Child; being taken and turned on its back, it is shiftless.

I caused it to be opened,The Fable of its having three Hearts confuted. and examined its Heart, which (con­trary to the Opinion of the Vulgar) is but One, they affirming it to be Three, grounded on this Mistake; the Auricles being larger than in other Creatures, equalling almost the Ventricles and whole Body of the Heart, which is bigger in proportion than belongs to such an Animal, being as large as an Ox's; which might be the reason of its Pusilanimity: The Veins and Arteries were filled with Currents of cold black Blood: It participates more of Flesh than Fish, of a vi­viparous than oviparous Offspring, yet lays imperfect Eggs without a Crust (only covered with a Membrane, being most Yolk) buried by it in the Sands, to receive from the Sun's heat the perfection of their Hatching (as the Eggs of Egypt from Furnaces, or others from Dunghills): It spawns them as Fish do, in huge quantities, as much at one time as will more than fill a Seaman's Bonnet (every one being as big as an Hen's Egg) By them aboard Ship they are or­dered like buttered Eggs of a Fowl, though nearer akin to a Ser­pent's, hanging together as those do.

For this end they come ashore, and when pursued, cast up with their Claws a Cloud of Sand to blind their Enemies; when overtaken some are so big, four men can hardly turn them.

[Page 123] It is supposed they feed on the Grass or Oaz on Land, or at the bottom of the Ocean; and from the Fable of the Three Hearts, springs the Conceit of its Tripartite Community, of Fish, and Flesh, and Fowl; the outward Covering being Shelly, the inner Meat Carnous, its way of preserving its kind being by Eggs, as the Feathered Fowl do: To me it seems (though the Flesh be highly extolled for the taste and colour of Veal) neither Fish, nor Flesh, nor good Red Herring.

It bears the Vogue for altering the Blood;The Flesh re­storative. wherefore good in Scur­vies got by bad Air and Diet in long Voyages, and for the Running of the Reins by impure Copulation; for which 'tis used as an un­doubted Cure, purging by the Genitals an Oily viscous Matter of a Yellow hew, if fed upon constantly for thirty days; restoring the decayed Vigour of the Body, and giving it a grace and lustre as ele­gant, as Viper Wine does Consumptive Persons, or worn-out Pro­stitutes.

About this time the President put in execution a Project for the advancing the Island Bombaim; wherefore an Envoy was sent to ex­plore the Passage through Seva Gi's Country into the Confines of Duccan; but returned with a fruitless Account, only making farther work for me.

One of the Mogul's Generals over Seventeen thousand Horse, and Three thousand Foot, and Governor of Jeneah (the Chief City of that Kingdom) having occasion for one of my Function, on St. George's Day I was commanded by the Honourable Gerald Aungier, with only Oral Instructions, to embarque on a Bombaim Boat of Twelve Oars and a Steer's-man, waited on by two of the Governor's Servants, four Moor Peons, a Portuguez, my own Servants, a Brachmin for Lin­guist, an Horse-keeper, eight Coolies to my Palenkeen, a dozen Frasses for Lumber, and one Horse.

Thus equipped,Take Boat for Duccan. I left Bombaim about Three in the Afternoon, and the same Night about Nine Anchored on this side Tanaw, where in our passage were visible a great way off, on the tops of the Moun­tains, several Fortresses of Seva Gi's, only defensible by Nature, needing no other Artillery but Stones, which they tumble down up­on their Foes, carrying as certain destruction with them as Bullets where they alight: The next Morning, with only sending my Ser­vant ashore to acquaint the Rendero, I quitted the Pass; and a Mile beyond the City deserted Baçein River on the left, and took our Course up a spacious Navigable River, which makes the Island of Ba­çein, the Banks of which are low and fruitful; on both sides are placed stately Aldeas, and Dwellings of the Portugal Fidalgos; till on the Right, within a Mile or more of Gullean, they yield possession to the Neigbouring Seva Gi, at which City (the Key this way into that Rebels Country) Wind and Tide favouring us, we landed at about Nine in the Morning, and were civilly treated by the Customer in his Choultry, till the Havaldar could be acquainted of my arrival; who immediatly ordered me a great Mosch for my reception, whence I sent the Brachmin to complement him, and deliver the Presidents Letter.

[Page 124] Who understanding my Business, desired the favour of me to visit him,Landing and Reception at Gullean. and there should attend on me some of his Friends that were diseased; I easily condescended, thinking to procure my Dispatch with more speed; which succeeded alike, I receiving his Chitty or Pass, with two Guides to direct us through the Country.

Early therefore the next Morning I left the most Glorious Ruins the Mahometans in D [...]an ever had occasion to deplore: For this City, once the chief Empory, excelled not only in Trade, but the general consequent, Sumptuousness, if the Reliques of the Stately Fabricks may add Credit to such a belief; which Reliques, notwithstanding the Fury of the Portugals, afterward of the Mogul, since of Seva Gi, and now lately again of the Mogul, (whose Flames were hardly extinguish­ed at my being here, and the Governor and People on that score being prepared more for Flight than Defence at present) are still the extant Marks of its pristine Height: The remaining Buildings having many Stories of square facing Stones, and the Mosques, which are numerous, of the same, abating little of their ancient Lustre, being all watered with delicate Tanks; about which are costly Tombs with their distinct Chappels or Mosques, where formerly the Mul­lahs had fat Pensions to pray for the departed Souls, which is main­tained by them as efficacious; wherefore they covet Funerals in the most conspicuous Places, which the Pleasant Summer-houses hanging over here, cause these Places to be; the unemploy'd People of the Town daily wasting their time in these inviting Varieties; which is the on­ly thing pleads for their continuance, Seva Gi as a Gentu being other­wise inclinable to raze them; yet purposely to pervert them from the use of the Donors, and Intention of the Founders, orders them to be converted into Granaries, especially those within the City.

The Houses the present Inhabitants kennel in are mean, the Peo­ple beggarly, by reason of these Hostile Incursions.

By Twelve at Noon having journey'd over Rocky,Set forward to Intwally, the Country all burnt and de­stroyed. Barren, and Parched Ways, I came to Intwally, Three Course, or Seven Mile and an half; the Season of the Year (the Heats being now most vio­lent) as well as the Time of the Day not permitting us any longer to endure their Extremity, I never staid for License, but shaded my self under a Wooden Mosque, the only Structure standing in the Town, it suffering the same Fate with Gullean, and was then reaking in its Ashes, the Moguls Army laying waste all in their Road, both Villages, Fodder, and Corn; and for their Cattel they drive them along with them, and take them, their Wives and Children for Slaves; so that none escape, except those that can fly fastest, or hide themselves in the Woods, which they also set on fire, to leave them destitute of those Recesses. This Gom or Town stood in a large Grove of Mangoes, on the Bank of a deep Creek, which though at this time fordable, yet I believe the Rains may swell into a Torrent.

Having refreshed my self and Coolies, Thence to Moorbar. I hired an Ox, they com­plaining they had too much Burthen, travelling more advisedly by Moonshine, (through a better Soil, and more exchange, as Arable Ground, Heaths, Forests, and Woods, some of which were on Fire two or three Miles together) from Six till Twelve, when we took up our Rest at a poor Village called Moorbar, six Course from [Page 125] Intwally: This place was not able to afford us an House or Shed, but we were forced to creep into one of their Cottages, half finished, they thatching it with Bents shelving from the Ridge down to the Bottom on both sides, no bigger than a Man might carry.

I kept the Coolies to their Watch,Force to keep watch. notwithstanding their hard Days labour, as well to keep Tigres and Wild Beasts from us, as Thieves and Robbers: The day following I staid here till Four in the Afternoon to avoid the Soultriness of the Weather, which I could hardly do where I was lodged, there being no Air; which caused me to remove out of the Town at Sun rise to the left of two pitiful Tanks belonging thereto; they being all here ignorant Idolaters, and Husbandmen, every one chusing his own God; no Family being without some Pan Daemon, or Incubus; which they paint with hide­ous Forms, bedaub with stinking Oil, and offer the Fruits of the Earth to: Most Abominably Superstitious, that an ill Augury shall detain them idle a whole day, though they and their Houshold must starve, if they work not; such as an Hare crossing the Way, or a Crow on the Left hand. They have no publick Pagod, or Place of Worship, besides these Tanks, where they wash and burn their Dead, giving me a Nosegay of one of their Carkases, before I got my Break­fast, as I lay to repose under a Tree; which made me range for Game, and disperse my Servants for Provant, being otherwise likely to go without; they living upon Batty, or Seeds of Grass, eating neither Fish nor Flesh, neither indeed have they any, unless by chance; for after my Purveyors had made diligent search, with much ado they purchased one Hen, tho several Villages were in sight, and all of them greedy enough to take Money, had they had Provi­sions. It is all Plowed Land hereabouts, but Seva Gi commonly reaps the Harvest, leaving hardly so much to the Tillers as will keep Life and Soul together.

And now going to set out,The Guides lead us about. I began by the murmurings of the Coo­lies to understand that the Guides, being jealous of falling into the Ene­my's hands, had a design to lead us about; (but every one besides the Cauns Peons being Strangers, and they fearful to discover themselves, we were persuaded to resign our selves to their Conduct) over Hilly, but none of the worst Ways; two or three Miles together they are all burnt, bearing nothing but withered Benty-Grass, which burning afore the Rains, benefits the Ground much; and are now out of distrust the Moguls should Forrage their Army here.

Below this, we passed over a fine Meadow checquered with Pur­ling Brooks, and three Villages, much about an equal distance one from another: And now the broken Ribs of these lofty Mountains seen so far off at Sea all along from Cape Comory, as if founded for an Ascent unto the Skies, begin to be discovered by our near approach; when Night interposing her black Vail between our Eyes and them, they became vested with a more benighted Darkness than hung over us; which served as a sable Cloud to direct us to Dehir, by Eleven a Clock at Night, nine Course from our last Stage, seated at the end of a large Plain, at the foot of that Chain of Hills supposed to cross the Taurus, trending through the Continent North and South, as that [Page 126] does East and West; it is by most Geographers concluded to be Mount Sephir, here called the Gaot.

We found them all in Arms,Come to De­hir, a Garison'd Town of Seva Gi's, at the foot of the Gaot. not suffering their Women to stir out of the Town Unguarded to fetch Water, being accustomed to continual Alarms; which cautiousness obliged them to usher me into the Market-place, by a small Party which lighted on me in their Rounds; when I sent my Gulleon Peon, one of our Guides, with his Masters Chitty, or Pass, to the Governor, who received it kindly, and gave me leave to be my own Quartermaster (little Complements being expected from Soldiers).

My Company,Awakes a Fakier Drunk with Bang. as well as my self, being Tired, and now stiff with a little Rest allowed them till the return of the Peon, we were not wil­ling to be at more pains to seek for a better Inn, than what a Fakier had taken up before us; but we rouzed a Lion, who had just been lain asleep with Bang, who opened with such a Clamour, that I was afraid it would have brought all the Watch about us, had they not been in the same tune, calling on one another, as Children when the Light is out, do for fear; beating their Drums, and sounding their Trumpets (Shriller than the Moors, and more Tuneable) all Night long; by which means, and my Quarrelsome Inmate, I could compose my self to no Quiet; though for the latter, at length I thought of an Expedient, plying him with Arack till his Tongue re­solved its self in Silence, which was much more grateful than his Bawling.

The next Morning when Day had cleared our Eyesight, I saw the Idol, this Drunken Priest Adored, hard by me; it was thick and short, Carved in Stone, of a Monstrous Visage, whisking his Tail over his Head; the upper Parts to the Waste, were Painted with Red; it insulted over another ugly Creature it trod on; it was of a Sooty Colour, and Swam in streams of Oil; yet it called in a great many Devotes, who came to pay their Salams.

I sent to the Havaldar, The Advan­tage taken of a Discompo­sed Counte­nance, shewn anon. p. 127. Seva Gi's Hor­ses kept here. to know when he would Pass us up the Gaot; word was brought he was not awake, having been up all Night; in the interim therefore, I Walked about the Town, which is Crowded with People, but miserably Poor, and of no Note, were it not that Seva Gi Stables his choicest Horses here, for the conveni­ency of this Plain to supply them with Hay and Corn, which cau­ses them to have the greater Force, and makes it the Residence of an Havaldar, who is a kind of petty General: Changing the Town for the open Fields, I was led to a Grove of Mangoes and Thamarinds, at the end of which, was a Mosque, and a great many Tombs of ex­cellent Stone, Demolished; one of which they remember with Re­spect, by the Name of Melech-Bury, a great Warrior; however, that which pleased me most of all, was a sudden surprize, when they brought me to the wrong side of a pretty Square Tank, or Well, with a Wall of Stone, Breast high; where expecting to find it cove­red with Water, looking down five Fathom deep, I saw a clutter of Women, very Handsome, waiting the distilling of the Water from its dewy sides; which they catch in Jarrs, and constantly carrying it away, leave it only weeping: It is cut out of a firm Black Marble Rock up almost to the Top, with broad Steps to go down.

[Page 127] Now we could not only see their Forts, but hear also the Watch­men from their Garisons aloft, some Five hundred, some more, some fewer Men,Seva Gi's Forts all about. to and again among the Hills, the main strength of this Prince consisting in these; coming back I found my troublesome Comrade very Merry, and packing up his Housholdstuff, his Bang-bowl, and Hubble Bubble, to go along with me, before I had got­ten leave from the Havaldar, who had newly sent word he was ready to receive me.

I made him not tarry long, following the Messenger, who brought me into the middle of a ragged Regiment, distinguishable from the Mogul's on that score, but more peculiarly by their Hair appearing on both Ears under their Puckeries; their Weapons are much alike, though to me they give more cause of Laughter, than Terror (considering the awkwardness of their wearing them) notwith­standing they are the Instruments of Death.

When I came before the Governor,State of the Havaldar. I found him in State, though under an Hovel; where were many Brachmins with Accompt-Books, writing at some distance; nearer, his Privy-Council, with whom he seemed to Advise: I was placed on his Left hand, and desired my Interpreter to acquaint him my Errand, withal intreating his Fa­vour for my secure passing the Hill: He made it a piece of difficulty, and told me I must return to Bimly for Orders, to whose Havaldar he was accountable, not to him of Gulleon; which was within half a days Journy from whence I set forth. Hearing this I bore my self as sedately as I could, having been informed of the advantage they take of a disturbed Countenance; and sweetned him with his own Au­thority being sufficient, telling him of his Master's Kindness to the English, and their Friendship towards him; which worked him to a yielding Temper; yet he scrupled my Canister, or Trunk, might be lined with Pearl, my Horse sold to the Enemy, hoping to suck some­what out of me; I replying, What I had brought were at his liberty to search, and that I went only on an amicable account to Cure a Sick Person, and should be as ready to serve him, if required, his Fury was quite pawled; but perceiving an hungry look to hang on them all, and suspecting lest they should serve me some Dog-trick, I made a small Present, and he signing the Pass, dismissed me with a Bundle of Pawn, the usual Ceremony at Parting.

Being clear,Got clear of Dehir. I could not so readily shake off my Fakier, he would march with me; when we were not gone above two Course, or three Miles, the Liquor working out by his Walking, he began to grow weary, and called out for the Horse, which I had caused the Portugueze to Mount, which he took in such dudging, seeing him­self on Foot, and him on Horseback, that he turned Tail, and went back again to his Vomit, without bidding adieu.

And now our mighty Task began to try our Feet,A trouble­some passage over the Gaot. as well as weary our Eyes: I not caring to hazard my self longer in my Palenkeen, alighted, and though I thought it a work impossible to conquer, I put the best face on it I could, tarrying till they were all together, the better to chear them. The Coolies providing themselves with Staves, distrusted not only their own Legs, but the Ground they went on, [Page 128] it having forsaken many a tall Tree around us; some holding by the mouldring Earth with half their Roots bare, others half buried in Pits they never grew in, lay expecting their quondam Neighbours downfal.

The busy Apes,The Monkies afrighted. the Forlorn hope of these declining Woods, deeming no place safe where they beheld us, made strange Levaltoes with their hanging Brats from one Bough to another, Chattering an Invasion; but these saw us presently exalted beyond their Bowers, and feared us from above, as much as we to salute them below: Thus far was passable enough, when the Sun levelled himself unto our Steps, and we looked for Day beneath us. Here I made a second pause, and promised them Nectar in the Skies; this proved but a faint Cordial to the Frasses, who failed afore they got a quarter up; for whom after I had provided (the Moon assisting us with a less parching Light) I found my Hands as necessary to Clamber as my Feet, Travelling on all Four; the Stones were laid step by step, but in little order; and now so steep, that it differed little from Perpen­dicular, only by the winding of the Mountain; and so Narrow, that Two Men could not pass abreast; where chiefly were laid Trees and Timber to make work for the Army, should they attempt this Way; which sorely increased our trouble, being the first Adventurers, beside the danger we incurred of being Assaulted from above, they not yet knowing who we were. To look down made my Brains turn round; over my Head pendulous Rocks threatned to Entomb me.

We had not gone long thus,Flurries from the Hills carry Men and Ox­en down the Precipice before the Cry came, the Ox was fallen; 'twas well he chose not the place where I was in, for the least lapse had irrecoverably whirled him to the bottom: Arguments were too weak to persuade the Coolies to go back to him to help him; I therefore proceeded to Threats, which made Two of them return to his Aid: I confess the sense of their hard Labour urged me to pity; the Anguish of which extorted Tears from some, unseasonable at this time to take notice of to them; we had only this Comfort, the Even was Calm and Serene, and we were mounted beyond the humble Mists, which we could discern fluctuating against the impe­netrable Promontories; which may be the reason sometimes (they say) Men and Oxen are hurled down the Precipice by sudden Gusts, when they are exalted to the Clouds, and they break with too great an Impetuosity: For all this Light we seemed Obscured, the splen­dour of the Moon being shaded by the sides of the Mountains, which appeared here all Marble.

The Horse (being a Turky one) made the best shift of all, and was more forward than convenient, pelting us with great Stones his Hoofs had removed, which caused us to retard his haste, and leave him to come last.

About Nine a Clock at Night the Moon shone over our Heads, more joyful at her presence, than her feignedly beloved Endimion: An hour after we came tired to the Brow, through a narrow Cavern cut out of the main Rock; here being no Guard, the noise of the Army being over, I was the second Man Trampled on the Top, half an hour after the Palenkeen came, and all the rest within two hours more: Here I was as good as my word, and distributed Arack among them, [Page 129] which made them, for all their tedious Tug, run amain to the next Town Oppagaot; where early in the Morning I crowded under an Old Shed.

This Gur or Hill is reckoned four Course up (every Course being a Mile and half):The heighth of the Moun­tain. From whence is beheld the World beneath all fur­led with Clouds, the Caerulean Ocean terminating the Horizon, the adjacent Islands bordering on the Main, the Mountains fenced with horrible Gulphs, till strange Vertigoes prejudicate Fancy, not daring longer to be made a Spectator: The bandying Eccho still persecutes with terrible repeated Sounds, meeting fresh Objects to reundulate it, though at the greater distance, being yet enclosed with Moun­tains, which they maintain as Fortresses; and I can give no reason why they do not this Entry also, unless because it is so contrived that Ten Men may keep down Ten thousand.

Here is a sensible alteration of the Air:Alteration of Air on the Hills. The Dawn of the Morning, and latter part of the Night, 'twas sharp, cold, and piercing; so that all I gathered about me would scarce keep me warm; and all the Day there were fine cool Briezes, though below we were almost choaked with soultry Heats: The Reason whereof I judge to be, be­cause the High Mountains reverberate the flowing Particles of the Atmosphere; as we see the Rocks do Water more strongly, by how much more force the Waves assail them; so here the Air (which is thicker below) driven against these Hills breaks off in Flurries, which seeking to retire into their own Ocean, mitigate the violence of the Heat in their passage, by fanning as it were the Air; by which means, and the Sun's rarifying the Misty Vapours, they are left pure, and fall at Night in more limpid Dews to cool and refresh the Earth: To which Sense sings Lucan,

Moreover, Bogs and Fens are rarely found to soil the Air, or pen in the Heat for want of ventilation.

This is a sad Starvling Town;Oppagaot a starveling Town. to it belongs a Subidar, or Cu­stomer; who blown up with the confidence of half a dozen Bill-men, thought to have compell'd me to stay till the Governor of the Castle should examine my Cocket, which he had sent him by the Haval­dar: I ordered him to send it with one of the Gulean Peons; but he made Answer, the Governor having been up all Night, was not then at leisure. While we were talking, a Drove of Combies (Hinds) passed with Provisions on their Heads for the Castle; and I having staid till Three in the Afternoon, not getting any other Answer, I commanded the Coolies to march, though the Subidar prohibited and kept them from following them with my Men and Arms, as Carbines and Blunderbusses; and the Governor not coming as he told my Peons they would, by Four, I dismissed the Gulean Peons, they daring to go no farther; and if there were farther occasion for a Pass, to bring it after me; thereby frustrating their Intention, which was to retard me, whereby to make their Booty of me.

[Page 130] They durst no more than curse, for all I departed without leave, taking my Course into a deep Valley, which winded and turned like a River,We force our way. and I believe is one in the Rains: Half way we met another Caphala of Oxen laden with Provisions, hardly escaping the Mogul's Army, which they told us was not far afore us: My Coolies more jealous of the Villany of Seva Gi's People than my self, made haste, and by Ten at Night arrived at Aumbegaum, Ten Course.

From whence Mucklis Caun's Men had driven all away with a Par­ty of his Horse,Our escape to Aumbegaum, and hardship of the Coolies. only one Fakier, who had set up his Standard in a Shop in the Buzzar, next to whom I shrowded my self under one of the same Stalls: Before Five in the Morning, for fear of farther In­terruption, I posted hence, up Hill and down Hill, not having Rice for my People to eat (all being fled) we came to a neat Stone Well of good Water; hard by which was an excellent Fig-tree, on whose Fruit, yet Green, my Indians fed heartily, and trouped by three or four wretched Towns, up another Mountain, not altoge­ther so bad as the first, yet on the account of their wanting their wonted Food, it went hard with the Coolies to foot it to Beelseer, two Course short of Jeneah, where we baited; it being high time, they having gone near Fifty Miles without eating more than a few squashy Figs: They unloaded at Noon under a Row of spreading Mangos, on the side of a Brook; and provided themselves with Vi­ctuals in an adjacent Village, liable to continual pillaging on both sides; but being reduced to the Condition of having little or nothing to lose, it is the better born.

Hence it is plain to Jeneah, Our entrance into the City of Jeneah. the Hills keeping their distance from its Invincible Gur: The length of whose Bottom fills most of the space from this Place to the City, which is the Frontier of the Mogul's Territory this way; and has been for many Years the Seat of War to the South, which is the signification of Duccan.

I sent the Governor's Peon to acquaint him of my approach (I not arriving till Sun-set) when he met me with others that were appointed at a Garden short of the Town, with the Governor's Com­plement; and conducted me to a Palace in a Compleat Garden, adorned with Cypress Trees (not usual in India) Hummums, Tanks, Choultries and Walks, with Water-Courses: When I was asleep, the Nabob or Governor sent me a Service in Plate covered with Em­broidered Velvet over Noble Surpooses or Covers, ushered with two Silver Staves, and a Trumpet sounding afore it; which Course was observed as long as I remained there.

The last day of April, being Friday, and the next after my arri­val, he sent to excuse himself, because it was his day of Devotion; when after a Princely manner he rides on an Elephant to the Mosque; and thence divertises himself in some place of Delight within his Se­raglio till high Night.

CHAP. V.
Introduces me into the Nabob's presence;Chap. V. my Business with him; a Prospect of the Gur (Seva Gi's Birth-place); the Army and Country of Duccan: Of the Pass of Tanaw, and benefit thereof, were it in the hands of the English.

IT was the first of May therefore before I waited on him; when he ordered a Guard of Horse to attend me to the Castle, which was large, but rude, and the Wall of raw Brick; serving as well to secure Cattle as Men from the Enemy.

His own Apartments in the middle encompassed a verdent Qua­drangle of Trees and Plants;The Caun re­ceives me publickly. in whose chief Choultry were assembled all his Great Men on his Right hand, he being enclosed in a Seat of State, boulstered up with Embroidered Cushions, smoaking out of a Silver Hubble bubble; afore whom lay a rich Sword and Buckler, with a Crescent Moon instead of Bosses, his Page bearing his Bow and Ar­rows, much after the Turkish manner, as Busbequius reports of the Grand Segnior, Sedebat in Solio humili instrato; juxta autem arcus & sagittae. All the Floor was spread with a soft Bed, over all a fine white Calicut; the Pedestals were Massy Silver, where I put off my Shooes, and after Respect paid, delivered the President's Letter, and was received immediatly next to him on his Left hand, all that side being kept void for my entertainment: The result of this Visit was, after he had acquainted me who were to be my Patients, to tell me I must be patient till a good day presented, and then I should be called again; it remaining a Custom still in the East to defer im­portant Affairs till a Lucky Day, totis haerentia fastis. I only intreated he would be mindful the Rains were at hand, falling earlier here than in the Low Countries.

Our Discourse being ended,Sycophants encouraged. a Couple of Singing-men began their Songs of Praise, which they pride themselves in, not being content with moderate Flattery; a thing odious to a generous Spirit, ac­counting those that do it, servile; and those that admit it, impru­dent to be deluded by Fawning Knaves: But here are not only those that profess it for Lucre, but it is the general strife who may impose most obsequiously. Adulandi certamen est, & unum amicorum omnium officium, quis blandissimè fallat; as Seneca observes in the corruption of his Age, de Benef. Cap. XXX.

Such as appear before him make a Salam or Bow before they ascend the Choultry, Several man­ner of Ad­dresses. when if he allows them Conference, leaving their Slip­pers below, they mount the Buchanna, where they bow, by first putting their Hands to their Heads, then to their Feet, which Sa­lute they call Pervenau, used to Cauns or Dukes. Above their Head, cross their Breast to the Foot is Pharmau, only for Kings; the most familiar is a Bow with the Head: If they are permitted to sit in his Presence, those only of Consular Dignity have liberty to sit (as they call it at ease) cross Legged; but an European, before he is accustomed, will not be reconciled to that Term: Others of inferior Rank kneel, [Page 132] sitting on their Heels, to which Posture, though I was not tied, I was thankful when he sent me a Bundle of Pawn, and had leave to make use of my Legs; being led out, as I was conducted in, by Two Virgers, and a large Train following, with a Master of Cere­monies accompanying.

In my passage through the Castle they seemed rather Encamped than Fortified;The Castle no strong place. wherefore if Seva Gi brings any Power, they betake themselves to speedy Flight, or retire to the Body of the Army un­der Badur Caun, Generalissimo in these Marches; being ill provided to endure a Siege, and more able to defend themselves, joined to an Host of Forty thousand Horse always at Pergom, three Days Journy hence.

Curiosity invited many Spectators, and Courtesy some of Quality to be my Harbingers at my Lodgings; which at my return I found pestered, as I had the Streets all the way I came: They were very Civil, making no Intrusion before they had requested leave; and then interrogating the State of Europe, the Government, Policy, and Learning; nodding a satisfaction in the account I gave them: Nor were they less communicative in their Relations, of those Occurren­ces which wheeled in their Sphere, being highly concerned to shew they had Book-men as well as Sword-men.

A good Day coming,A good Day consulted, when I had a private Invita­tion to the Caun. the Governor sent for me to Visit his Lady in the Haram, which was opposite to a Chamber he sate in, Accom­panied only with one pretty Wanton Boy, his Only Son by this Woman; upon which account he had the greater kindness for her: An Old Gentlewoman with a Tiffany Vail, made many trips, being, I suppose, the Governant of the Womens Quarters; at last I was called and admitted with my Linguist.

At our being ready to enter,Admitted the Womens Quarters. she Clapped with her Hands to give Notice; when we were led through a long dark Entry, with Dor­mitories on both sides, the Doors of which Creeked in our passage (but I was cautious of being too Circumspect) till we came to an aiery Choultry; where was placed a Bed hung with Silk Curtains; to which being brought, I was Commanded to place my self close by it, from whence I might conveniently Discourse and Feel her Pulse, putting my Hand under the Curtains. It was agreed among them to impose upon me; wherefore at first they gave me a Slaves Hand, whom I declared to be Sound and Free from any Disease, nothing contradicting the true Tenor and Rythme of Pulsation; when they began to be more ingenuous, telling me, it was done to try me: Then was given me another Hand, which demonstrated a weak languid Constitution; and collecting the Signs and Symptoms, I feared not to give Sentence; which met with their Approbation, and so I was sent back the same way I came.

The Caun had been acquainted with what had passed, and seemed pleased; whereupon I must visit the Haram again the next day to Bleed another of his Wives, he being tolerated Four, though he keeps more than Three hundred Concubines.

And now the Curtain was extended athwart the Choultry, What hap­pened while I was in the Haram. and an Arm held forth at an hole; but this was a slight fence for such Ani­mals, who leaning too hard as they peeped, pulled it down, and disco­vered [Page 133] the whole Bevy, fluttering like so many Birds when a Net is cast over them; yet none of them sought to escape, but feigning a shamefacedness, continued looking through the wide Lattice of their Fingers: The Lady I had by the Arm was a Plump Russet Dame, summoning the remainder of her Blood to enliven her Cheeks (for among the darkest Blacks, the Passions of Fear, Anger, or Joy, are discernible enough in the Face) and she bearing a command, caused it to be hung up again; pouring upon her extravasated Blood a Golden shower of Pagods, which I made my Man fish for.

In this Interview they appeared to me not altogether unimployed,Scandal thrown upon the Women. there lying pared Mangoes, and other Fruits for Confection, and Achars, or Pickles; some Samplers of good Housewifry in Needle­works; and no indecent decorum in managing their Cloystered way of living, making it agreeable to the choice of Custom rather than Restraint: But here are foulmouthed Homers that Stigmatize them, how deservedly I dare not say.

And a Man would guess no less, to see the number of Spies upon them, of Toothless Old Women, and Beardless Eunuchs, that they are incontinent in their Desires, for which reason they debar them the sight of any thing Male, but their Lord; they Waiting, as well to hand them Necessaries, as Wood, Water, Meat, and the like, taking them at the Door, as to prevent unlawful Intruders.

These have their Singing Wenches;Their Dress is Rich. exercise their Ears and Noses with weighty Jewels, as the Gipsy of Old did her Hair and Neck.

And are Cloathed like the Men, only they go in their Hair within, and abroad with Vails.

Gaining by these steps a nearer intimacy with the Nabob, A Conference about the Affairs of the English. he cut me new Business out every day; he advised me of the intention of the Governor of the Castle on the Hill, to commit his Brother to my Care; and I in a private Conference, according to my Instructi­ons, propounded the Commodity might arise from an intercourse of Commerce between this place and Bombaim, from thence to Bussorah, Persia, and Maecha, for to provide the Army with Horses; in re­turn of whom might be exchang'd the same Goods procurable at Surat and better Cheap, should they succeed in their Conquests over the Low Countries; which is not a matter of such impossibi­lity should they earnestly set upon it, considering the Avenues are open: But by that proceeding, it would take away a powerful ob­stacle to the maintaining so vast an Army as is always in Duccan, whereby a main Body of the Soldiery would be out of pay; which is absolutely against the Generals interest, and therefore he would never consent: This I soon saw was the main Argument, though he coloured it with pretext, that 'twas a work of more pains to reduce [Page 134] Seva, than was represented, in respect of his Situation, being im­powered not only to make Excursions, but to bid them Defiance.

Whereupon I told him, If the latter was not feasible, it was in vain to propose any thing in relation to the former, for that all Ac­cess was stopped if the Low Lands were not cleared; the Havaldars being unconscionable in their Customs, and without doubt would interrupt what might be serviceable to their Enemies, or bring pre­judice to their Prince; whereas were the Ways free, it would enrich his Jageah beyond the Bunder at Surat, and tie the English to a per­petual Truce, who were known in these Parts addicted to Traffick, and Friends to Peace: He asked further, How far we desired to ex­tend this Liberty? I replied, beyond the Portugal Dominions, which would front the Island of Bombaim about Tull; otherwise we must be at the charge of double Custom, to them as well as the Mogul. He said all this had been moved to Badur Caun, but those to whose hands the Presents for him had been entrusted, had defrauded him of them, on whom nothing was to be wrought without liberal Piscashes, he bearing it as high as the King himself, and at this juncture he was an unfit Mediator to him, having lately had some jarrs with him (the Governor of Jeneah undervaluing his Authority in an Expe­pedition, not long enough ago to be thoroughly forgot); however did the President immediately apply himself to him, he was incli­nable enough to let him Settle Factories; which I gave him to un­derstand, without a mutual Benefit on both sides, was not the pre­sent Design; but for the esteem we bore to Men of Honour, and that made account of their Word, it was wished the Moguls were posses­sed of those Parts; which was never to be cultivated, either with good Manners, or Profit, whilst Perfidy reigned there.

This being the substance of our Discourse, after he had related the Business to his Council (he replied) he would intimate what might be effected in it, to the President, in answer to his Letter.

At Night it was dismally Tempestuous,Mischief done by Thunder. Killing Two of the Watch on Duty, and carrying a Tower of the Hill at one Clap; below, it brake one Man's Arm, the Prologue to the Rains.

The Day after the Nabob's Brother,The Gover­nor's Brother of the Hill descends for Cure. of the Castle, was received kindly here, bringing a noble Train, and Piscash to bespeak his Welcome; he was Lodged in a Palace adjoining that where I was.

The Eleventh of May I went abroad to a Garden left by a common Strumpet,A Strumpet's Benefaction. in which was a noble Tomb built in remembrance of her, with a Well belonging to a lovely Spring, which by Aqueducts sup­plied the City with Water.

Hence we went to a ruined Palace,The Empe­ror's Palace. where Auren Zeeb, the present Emperor, was hospitably received in his Father's Reign, and lived a pretended Fakier.

Cotton in its season is Planted all hereabouts:The Fields no sooner Sowed than set on Fire. The Fields produce Wheat in abundance, and other Grain; but are often served as the Philistine's were by Sampson, the Foxes from the Mountains with Fire­brands [Page 135] consuming them; which made us bethink of retiring, they descending sometimes in Parties to Prey on Straglers, that often Troopers are sent home disrobed and dismounted, to be laught at for their Misfortune.

Having tarried now till the Rains had made their first onset Four­teen days together,Dungeness ano­ther Heathen Fane. with horrid Thunder; at the end thereof I set apart a day to take notice of the adjacent Rarities; among which is a City called Dungeness, of like Antiquity and Workmanship, as Canorein, cut out of a Mountanous Rock, with a Temple and other spacious Halls, by no means inferior to it both for Water and other Refreshments, and much more entire; Time having not dealt so cruelly with it, but the Lines of its ruined Beauty are still legible, though in old Characters; however it is left a desolate Habitation for Batts and Wasps; to disturb which it is dangerous, being over­grown and desperately revengeful, following their Aggressors till they have Whealed them into Contrition for their unadvised Provo­cation: To be out of the Noise of these buzzing Hornets, and to se­cure our selves from the surprize of any disturbed Idolater, who might bellow the report of our being here, we hasted to the safer Plain, and ended the rest of the day in a pleasant Garden, on the brink of the River which glides hence to Surat.

The Governor of the Gur hearing I was preparing for to return to Bombaim, The Request of the Gover­nour of the Hill for my Ascent. requested before my departue to accept of my choice, either to ascend the Gur, or else to meet him at his Garden below, being the prescribed Limits of his Walk: I signified my readiness to comply with the former, wherefore he sent Four Palenkeens, his Kinsman, an Ingenuous Mogul, and his Brother to attend me.

We Travelled Two Miles before we came to the Foot of it,The Suburbs a shelter to the Castle. where is a Garison, or Fortified Town, walled with strong Chockies, or Watches, and a Troop of Five hundred Horse, and as many Camels of War; here are great Stacks of Hay and Corn, all their Droves of Beasts being sheltered here anights. Seva Gi has distressed this often, and put them to the rout; but that, whose Top we are endeavouring to gain, is inaccessible, unless by Seven winding Gates, which are ve­ry strong, and able to clear one another as they rise, the Way being lined with Murtherers, and they themselves defended with good Pieces of Ordnance: The last is a Piece of excellent Work and Strength, and the place filled with Soldiers.

Hence it is painful Riding,The Hill in­accessible but by Seven Gates. and requires a strong Back to keep State in a Palenkeen, it being carried almost bolt upright, over slippery Marble steps, cut out of the shining Rock, as smooth as Glass, and reflecting the Sun-beams as much: After we had mounted near an Hundred Stairs, we were received into the Neck of the Castle, which is collared about with a Wall, rather to keep them from falling down, than needful to prevent Assailants; from whence an easy Ascent leads to a Level, which is the Circus to train the In­fantry; where are conspicuous Tombs of their former Kings, being firmly Built, and a Mosque of polished Marble, which on Festivals only they repair unto: No Houses here are able to resist the Storms of Wind, or the Sun's Heat, for which conveniency they have made the Eastern side of the Hill most Inhabited, it serving instead [Page 136] of a Bank; where they live in little low Huts, the Governor's not exceeding in height, (though a pretty neat Dwelling, fenced with Trees, no where else to be found) who had expected me Two whole Hours; but being impatient of delay, and the Sun growing too hot, he betook himself to his Haram, having ordered his Kinsman (whose Civil Deportment met with his Commands) to Entertain me; he is but Poor (so that he threatens the Nabob to turn Fakier) yet Ge­nerous, of a free open Temper, neither Jealous nor Lazy, as the Moors most are; but applying himself to several Handicrafts, which he has learned of the Europeans; he is learned too in the Persian and Ara­bick Languages, though not to Vain-glory; being so Humble, Face­tious, and Merry, that nothing but Spight and Envy can disagree with him: His Name is Nishambeak; such another I have not met with, so general a lover of Franks; which he specified in an espe­cial manner to me, receiving me in an Airy Banquetting-house, Embellished and Adorned on purpose; and notwithstanding the Go­vernor's Son was to pay his Compliments, would not suffer me to give him Place, but diverted me with several Interludes of Morisco Dancing. That which took most with them I perceived, was a Jester, or Mimick, the Ancient Salt at publick Banquets, as we may gather from Statius:

And from Lucan to Piso:

Having feasted the Fancy,Feasted by the Governor's Order. he contends to cloy the Stomach, with loads of Viands stowed in Plate, serving me with his own Hands, his Friends and he being content to feed on the desire they had to satisfy me, not being to be courted to fall to till I had done; they served me with variety of Stews and Baked Meats, but offered me Sherbet only for Drink; I had provided against this chance by fil­ling my Metarrah with Beveridge, which passed for Water, being drunk out of a Leather Bottle Tipped with Silver, for Travel.

After Dinner they made their loud Musick proclaim my going to the Governor (whereat flocked all the Gur) and after formal Salutes,None appear before Great Men without a Present. present him with a Glass of Chymical Spirits. As the Parthians were wont not to receive Visits without a Gift; Et exem­pla in Oriente plura sunt, interea & Magorum in sacris qui Christum ado­raturi, munera attulerunt. So here the like Custom prevails.

I was placed close by him,How strange our Arms and Apparel seem to them. he like an Hermit, having the Court brought to him, admired the Splendour as well as the Novelty of our Europe Dress; asking my Servant if I lay in them, because it is their fashion not to undress to go to Bed, but lye in the same Clothes they wear in the day; he made me declare the use of my Rapier, at [Page 137] first not apprehending it so serviceable as their Broad Two-handed Swords; 'twas a Question out of my road, yet I made him under­stand our Custom in War was to appear all armed Cap-a-pee, where their Broad Swords would find a rebate; whereas these Sharp-pointed Weapons would pierce the Junctures of the Harness, or the Pleats of a Coat of Mail (they denying a Stab to be more mortal than a Slash). He was very inquisitive about our Military Discipline; and heard it with pleasure. He called all his Male Children about him, who sate at his Feet, and gave me an History of their Maladies; as most here did that durst speak, there being an infinite number of Captains and Grave Fellows: The Old Men mended their Eyes with Spectacles, the young marred theirs with staring.

The Choultry was hung with Green and Red Velvet checkered;Permitted the freedom of the Castle. his Pawn Boxes were large, and of Massy Gold; his Retinue grave, his Carriage affable; he gave me a Bow-Ring off his Thumb, of Cash­mire (of equal value as Vertue, being a Charm against Thunder) and the liberty to take a Round about the Castle, never before granted any not listed in his Service: A Portuguez Mestizo, Chief Gunner of the Castle, was very officious, though I was entrusted to the charge of his prime Eunuch.

The first Object busied me,A bold At­tempt of Seva Gi's Men. was a Place Seva Gi's Men had at­tempted to scale, by me esteemed a desperate Design, and very im­probable; yet two Men got up, and a Stone casually tumbling, de­terred their Accomplices, leaving them a Sacrifice to the Governor and Women, who being left alone to the defence of the Castle (all the Men deserting on the approach of a vast Army of Seva Gi's) hurled them down the Mountain for their rash Adventure; con­firming to me by a great Stone let fall, the unavoidableness of their destruction; it running with that force where-ever it came, that it beat all a-fore, till it rested in the middle of the Valley.

It is stored with Granaries hewed out of Stone,Granaries for Stores now, formerly Re­ligious Cells. I suppose for Re­ligion's sake at first, being too delicately engraved for the present use; though there be several Tanks filled with Butter of 400 years standing, prized by the Gentiles as high as Gold, prevalent in Old Aches, and Sore Eyes, one of which was opened for my sake, and a Present made me of its black stinking and viscous Balsom: There are other Tanks or Cisterns for Water, which look nastily, Green, Yellow, and Red, being distilled in the Rains, and in the Heats evaporated to a Consistency; in some of these Gurs the Water is so bad, that they use Onions to correct its unsavoriness. (Garlick in­deed with us is called the Countryman's Treacle).

They have Provisions for a Seven Years Siege for a Thousand Fa­milies,A Rajah slain the occasion of a Barbarous Funeral. but no other Ammunition than Stones, excepting two un­shapen Sakers of Two and twenty Foot long, with a narrow Bore of Brass of Gentu Mould, at each end one, on huge winding Carriages; one of which at random killed a Rajah some four Months ago, when Seva was encamped about Jeneah slinging a Bullet two Course off; which Shot caused a Bonfire of a couple of his Ladies, beside other Dome­sticks; one of each sort to attend him in another World, as his Chief Physician, Barber, Washerman, Horse-keeper, and the like, to the number of Twenty odd; a thing as customary at the death of [Page 138] any great Rajah, as 'tis for the Wife of every Gentue of note at the death of her Husband.

By this fatal Instrument of Mortality stood the remaining part of the Tower the Thunder had cleft in twain: Near where a Dutch Apostate has a wretched Dwelling, enjoying a Pair of Wives, the miserable Tools who induced him to this lamentable Condition, that he is despised and slighted by them all; few of those that endure Cir­cumcision meeting with better fortune.

Having taken my full view,Took leave of the Governor. and returning to give the Governor Thanks for this freedom, I met him as he came from Prayers through a Lane of Soldiers, followed by a Crowd of his Domesticks, when taking my leave, he ordered my release, being ushered with the same State down as I came up, leaving him Prisoner in his strong Hold.

Hence might be beheld many Dens and Caverns, fondly believed to be carved and cut out of the Rocks by some Divine Power; having no account of their original. Indeed they are miraculous; And I am apt to judge, the pious Zeal of former Ages, when undisturbed in their Tranquility, thinking the greatest labour too little to express their love to a Deity, set them upon such imployments, more than that they could promise to themselves any security from these Places; which though the Passages to them be difficult, yet they are gene­rally unprovided of Human Necessaries; This Hill being only inde­pendent, whereby it stands out against all the opposite Forts of Seva Gi, many of whom in a still Night may be heard by Voice, but more by Trumpets.

Here are a Thousand Sword-men in pay,This Gur puts a stop to Seva Gi this way. no Horse or Elephant be­ing able to climb it: It was never fairly taken, the Governor is one of approved Fidelity; the Mogul having not the like Fort in all his Kingdoms, and is of main concern to the Frontiers; putting a stop to Seva Gi's progress, otherwise likely to overrun Duccan. His name is Hagiess Caun, originally a Brachmin, now a strict Musleman; some years past Governor of the City, when oppressing the Poor, their Cries reaching the King's Ears, he was translated hither, in conside­ration of his good Service; where he receives a liberal Pension, and is at no Expence, which agrees well enough with his covetous Hu­mour; which Humour of his Seva Gi being informed of, left no means unattempted to gain the Surrender of his Trust; promising Mountains of Gold in exchange of this, which he scrupled not to receive; appointing a day for the delivery of it to Seva Gi, if he sent 7000 to take possession; who keeping touch, met with the same measure he had meated to others, they being all surprised by an Ambuscado from Badur Caun, whom the Governor had advertised of all the Transactions.

That which makes Seva Gi so intent on this more than the fore­mentioned Advantages,Jeneah Gur the Birth-place of Seva Gi. is, because it was his Birth-place; to whom that of Virgil is applicable,

[Page 139] What makes it more famous, it was anciently the Seat Royal of the Duccan Kings, under whom Seva Gi's Father was Keeper; but Auren­zeeb in his Conquest of this Kingdom (after he had fled hither for protection) had it surrendred unto him: It is reckoned two Course and an half in height; is surrounded, though a good way off, with Hills, all but towards the North, where it seems to stand Captain of the Mountains.

The Moguls I perceive are inclinable to the like Credulity the Gentues are,The Moors toucht [...] the Supersti­tion of the Gentues. pointing out a Mount where undoubtedly Solomon gave Audit to the two Women claiming the same Child, and pronounced Judgment in favour of the true Mother; and it still bears the name of Tecta Schelimon, Solomon's Throne; I brought Night with me to Jeneah, being too well guarded to suspect any Attempt; though notable enough by the multitudes of Oily Flambeaus.

This Day gave me occasion to take notice of the sneaking Offici­ousness of the Banyans, who pressed on my Heels, and where-ever I went, waited like Lacquies, which put me in mind of that Distich of Martial's,

The New Moon brought the Soldiers to their several Standards,Of the Luscar­ry or Army. against the Governor's House, by their Salam to refresh his Memory of their Pay, being Fourteen Months behind-hand. Pay, says Tacitus, is the Cause of Soldiers, and Money is the Cause of Pay; which is not wanting to the Muster-masters, who abuse the common Troopers in retarding it; to the end, that having run into debt, they might compound for half their Wages in ready Money; for all which they leave not often their Side, for they are sure of something with ease, whereas Seva Gi is a kind of Free-booter, whose Maxim is, No Plun­der, no Pay; which comes with pain and hazard: Yet it is common for him to have Moors in his Army; for the Liberty of their Country is not stood so much upon, as Whose Salt they eat (their own Phrase); so that you may see Gentues in the Mogul's Army, as well as Moguls among the Gentues: For the most part of the Body of the Cavalry consists of Moguls, the Infantry of Gentues, with Match-Lock Muskets.

In order to this Convention every Petty Officer brings the number of his Men and Horse along with him,Its Appear­ance. who first salute him, and he the Governor, owning none else for their Commander, though they fall off under such an Ensign as they are ordered to march with: They are taught little more than the Grand Paw, and to make a Salam: They ride in wide Saddles as our War Saddles, but hold with the Calves of their Legs, not fasten themselves to their Saddles by their Thighs, as we do; by which slight they raise themselves to mow down their Enemies, and will cast a Spear, and take it up from the Ground on full speed: They stop with a jerk, not taking their Horses up by degrees, which they laugh at us for, as well as our riding with our Feet at length: They have no Spurs to their Heels, but in their [Page 140] Bridle-bit is one to stop the most untamed Horse, or bore his Mouth through, pointing out of a Circle upon their Tongues.

They have other excellent Qualities; as he that runs fastest, is the best Soldier: Besides, their Arms are kept so bright, they are afraid to handle them for fear of soiling them: Their Leaders are good Carpet-Knights, loving their Buchannos better than the Field.

The old Roman Discipline takes place,The Disci­pline. viz. Commanders of Tens, so of Hundreds, thence to Legions; and accordingly receive their Salary, making their own Terms with those under them: The Go­vernor distributing to the Officers, and they to the Soldiers, every one having their Snips; that never was more truly verified that Pro­verb, Half the King's Cheese goes away in Parings.

The Grandees of the Army appear with their Furniture of Silver and Gold,The Com­m [...]nders rich­ly accoutred. on Persian, Arab, or Turkish Steeds; the rest rarely get any other than the Race of the Country, which are Fiery and Met­tlesome, but very Flashy, probably because they pinch Their Bellies to put into their Own.

And now the Rains began to urge me to take my Leave of the Caun of Jeneah, I take my leave of the Caun. which I did in a full Assembly convocated for the purpose; where I was informed Two hundred of Seva Gi's Men had pursued me almost to Ambegaum, with a resolution to have carried me back, but durst come no further, for the Report of the Army being in Motion; wherefore the Naibob advised me to take another way, and a select Guard of his should attend me to the utmost Extent of his Territories; after which he dismissed me very honourably, with a Letter to the President, which is not sealed on the Paper, but in a Neat Bag of Cloath of Gold or Silver.

This Naibob Mucklis Caun lives not in that Splendor the Governor of Surat does, though he have ten times the Salary, being liable to the daily Assaults of Seva Gi; but he exceeds in Command, being Absolute, without any Dependance on the General; which causes an Emulation on either side, and the more, because the Mogul has lately heaped new Honours on Badur Caun, doubling his Stipend, and giving him the Title of Foster Brother, his Mother nursing the King: But this Governor, to equalize him in Wealth, keeps but half the alotted Number in Pay, and lives sparingly, which makes him take Sanctuary with regret sometimes under Badur Caun, he being always upon the Forlorn Hope.

This Cheat is practi [...] all over the Realm,False Musters the Practice of India. notwithstanding here are Publick Notaries placed immediately by the [...]gul, to give No­tice of all Transactions; which they are sure to represent in favour of the Governors where they reside, being Fee'd by them, as well as Paid by the Emperor; so that if a Defeat happen, it is extenua­ted; if a Victory, it is magnified to the height: Those in this Of­fice are called Vocanoveces.

The Government of this Place is as in all other Cities of the Mo­guls. The Govern­ment and Commodities. The Walls are broken down, but the Gates are still remain­ing: With the City's Safeguard Trade is fled, though it be commo­diously feared, and furnished with course Chints, fine Lawn, and plenty of Cotton-Grounds; but the Plowmen and Weavers have followed the Merchants, a Rich one not being to be heard of in se­ven or eight days Journy from hence.

[Page 141] The Buzzars therefore consist chiefly of Provisions, which they compel the Country to bring in, and sometimes take them by Force, by reason of the general Poverty reigning among them.

Wherefore the 22^d of May I left them,Returned by Nunny Gaot, or the little Hill. and took my Way by Nunny Gaot, or the Little Hill in respect of the other, which we saw mounted a prodigious height above us: Hither I came by twelve a Clock at Noon, a far shorter and easier Way than the other: It is ten Course from Jeneah, wherein we travelled between a Couple of Seva Gi's Castles; and overlooking the Gaot, is a third very like Je­neah Gur, which hailed us; I sent one to answer them, but kept on my Course till I came to the Gaot, where I was constrained to bestow more time th [...]n I was willing, 300 Oxen laden with Salt (which is so precious up the Country, as to be proverbially preferred to Bread, they saying, Whose Salt they eat, as we, Whose Bread,) stopping the Gap; but with a little Intreaty, after an hour's standing still in the Sun, I got them, by sending my Peons, to desist below, till we had widen'd the Pass above; after which it is feasible, being sup­plied at fit distances with charitable Cisterns of good Water, and to­wards the bottom adorned with beautiful Woods, delighting as well as refreshing us with the Shade: By Sunset I was in the Plain, where an honest Subidar that took off his Liquor, let me pass without trou­ble, being more like a Scout than a Set-Watch.

Nor do I believe the Mogul's Army dare venture to advance be­tween these Streights,No Army likely to pass this way. which are so well maintain'd; but farther North the Hills seem to stoop more to the Plain, and it may be that Way they may pass; though this Way be tolerable for Caphala's and Merchants who have their Passports.

We reckon to have measured this Day Fifteen Course, most in the Heat of the Day, to the side of a poor Village called Wesnure, where we rested under a Tree, the Coolies being unprovided for; nor could they purchase any thing here, the Inhabitants being hared out of their Wits, mistrusting even their own Countrymen as well as Strangers, living as it were wildly, betaking themselves to the Thick­ets and Wildernesses among the Hills, upon the approach of any new Face; for my Horse by chance breaking loose, set a whole Gom or Town upon the hoof, they thinking Auren Zeeb's Luscarry at hand; thus unhappily live these, a Prey to every one.

The Clouds had spread themselves over the Tops of the Hills, that they seemed to make a Ne plus ultra, or the World's-End.

The next Day at Twelve a Clock at Noon we struck into our old Road at Moorbar, Glistering Flies about a Tree, scare the Coolies. from whence before we were misguided; we packed hence by Five in the Afternoon, and left our Burnt Wood on the Right-hand, but entred another made us better Sport, deluding us with false Flashes, that you would have thought the Trees on a Flame, and presently, as if untouch'd by Fire, they retained their wonted Verdure. The Colies beheld the Sight with Horror and Amazement, and were consulting to set me down, and shift for them­selves; whereof being informed, I cut two or three with my Sword, and by breathing a Vein, let Shitan▪ (the Devil) out, who was crept into their Fancies, and led them as they do a startling Jade, to smell to what their Wall-Eyes represented amiss; where we found an Host [Page 142] of Flies, the Subject both of our Fear and Wonder, which the sultry Heat and Moisture had generated into Being, the certain Prodromus of the ensuing Rain, which follow'd us from the Hills.

This gave my Thoughts the Contemplation of that Miraculous Bush crowned with Innocent Flames, that gave to Moses so pleasant and awful a Prospect; the Fire that consumes every thing, seeming rather to dress than offend it.

Thus we came to Barfta, Forc'd to keep Watch against the Wild Beasts. a despicable Country Town, Seven Course more; it is in possession of the Combies, who are not strong enough to aid their Herds against the devouring Jaws of the Wild Beasts, a young Buffola being seized the Night before, out of the Ta­bernacle they lodged me in; wherefore they caution [...] me to keep Fires all Night, lest the Horse might lose one of his Quarters, or our Oxen might serve them for a Supper; I added to the Fires a strict Watch, whose mutual answering each other in an high Tone, was deafen'd by the Roarings of Tigres, Cries of Jackals, and Yel­lings of Baloos, or over-grown Wolves: At Cock-crow (the Lions Charm) we parted hence, and observed the Sheds here were round, thatch'd, and lined with broad Leaves of Teke (the Timber Ships are built with), in fashion of a Bee-hive: These Combies are the Wood-men. About Seven we overtook our deep Creek, and being somewhat swelled by the Rains, we followed its Current till we found it passable; about Eleven we returned to Gullean.

The Hardship these poor Combies undergo was obvious to the sense of the very Coolies, The Coolies Reflections on the Miseries of these People. who often in this Journy would reflect on their own Happiness under the English Government; those being all so harass'd, that they dare not Till the Ground, never expecting to reap what they sow, or remain in their Houses, but seek lurking-Places in De­serts and Caverns, being naked to the Violence of the Plunderer, and therefore both unsafe and uncomfortable Journeying for Tra­vellers. I took up my Station where I was before, and sent my Man to the Havaldar to complain of the Treachery of the Guides; he professed he was asham'd, but a new Governor being since put over his Head, with the Command of a Party of Horse, he was incapable of punishing them; yet for what further Courtesy he was able to do he was ready, and to that end sent to the Subidar for his License for a Boat, which now are all pluck'd up and housed ashore, the Rains more than approaching, so that it was troublesome procuring one; but by their joint Power it was at last atchieved; which a cross­grain'd Brachmin, supported by an outlaw'd Portugal, contradicted in despight of both, seizing it by Force with Three Files of Soldadoes.

For which cause I was tied to the Consort of croaking Frogs,Prodigious great Frogs. ma­king so hideous a Noise, that I took little Rest this Night: When Day broke I could hardly believe my Eyes, for Bulk, or Ears, for Sound, exceeding ours incredibly; and to raise the Wonder, this Night was the first of the Rains, before which none were heard: Wherein Pliny may be trusted, better than in some other Reports; for speaking de Ranis, he says, Mirum semestri vitâ resolvuntur in limum, nullo cernente, & rur­sus vernis aquis renascuntur, quae fuere natae, proinde occultâ ratione cum omnibus annis id eveniat. Et Aristot. de Gen. Anim▪ cap. 4. Generantur autem in terrâ & humore animalia & plantae; quoniam humor in terrâ, [Page 143] spiritus in humore, calor animalis in universo est, ita ut quodammodo ani­ma [...]um plena sunt omnia.

Sic Ovidius.

Who all consent to the possibility of the thing, the prolifick Virtue lying hid in the slimy Matter, till a conjunction of fit Causes dispose it for suddain Action.

Walking the Quarters of my Lodgings,The Nure-Tree. a more delightful, and as unusual a Prospect attracted my Animadversion; a great Tree full of stringy red Flowers, set in open Calices upon a long Stalk, like budding Grapes; which before the Sun had collected much force, I saw begin to fall in showers upon the Ground; desiring to handle one Bough, I observed them fixed; still they upon the Tree dropped till all was shedded, and the Ground strewed with them, which a Brach­min carefully gathered up to reserve for a Physical use; but more truly out of Superstition, paying Rent for the Privilege: This Wonder is renewed daily, they Blossoming in the Night, and con­trary almost to all other Plants, are disgusted with the Sun-beams, drooping in the day; which is like the Arbor Tristis at St. Thomas his Mount, only the Flowers of that are White and Sweet, and this Red and indifferently Scented; the Leaves of the Tree resemble those of a Walnut; in the Country Nomenclature it is called Nure; of what Virtue I cannot learn.

Discharging here my Oxen,Cruelty to their Beasts. which I hired of a Gentue, who though they will not Kill their Neat, make no Conscience to Work them to Death, allowing them hardly Food to keep them alive.

Neither are they less Inhuman toward their Sick,Inhumanity to their Sick. a Woman being brought to die among the Tombs in my sight; pretended to be done to avoid the Governor's troubling the Family (where she lived a Dancing Wench) for Money; they making themselves Heirs to their Estates when they die: Non ad eundem finem quem Herodotus ait, uti Antiquiores Aegyptii aegrotos suos non ad medicos, sed in compita, & publicas vias deferebant, populum praetereuntem pro morborum cura­tione consulturi: Not for that purpose, as Herodotus presumes; the Egyptians brought not their Sick to Physicians, but laid them in the Streets and publick Passages, that the People passing by might be consulted for their Cure.

Every Third Hour I had the din of a Man of God of the Moors, The Moor-men Priests follow Trades. permitted to come hither to call them to Prayers; as he cried aloud he stopped his Ears with his Fingers, that he might emit his Voice with the more strength, and less disturbance to himself; experience thereby directing us to hear our own Sounds the better; and some Anatomists tell us, Nature has framed a Cartilaginous passage from the hollow of the Drum of the Ear, to the process of the outward part of the cuneal Bone reaching to the Palat, which being open may possibly divert the Noise; but whether this do help, or is un­derstood by them, yet this they do Practise; and this Afternoon their Sanctum Sanctorum was open, the Priest entring in Barefoot and Prostrating himself on the Mats spread on the Floor, whither I must [Page 144] not have gone, could his Authority have kept me out; the Walls were white and clean, but plain, only the Commandments, wrote in Arabick in the West-end, were hung on a Table over an Arched Place, where the Priest Expounds on an Ascent of Seven Steps, railed at top with Stone very handsomely: It is supported within with Four sub­stantial Pillars of Timber well carved, the Roof all Wood, with a square Hole over the Pulpit: Underneath are fine cool Vaults, and Stone Stairs to descend to a deep Tank, where this Priest was following the Occupation of making such Paper as they use; which after he had steeped Cotton Rags in Water, he by beating brought it into the form of Paper; and cutting them, or slicing the Mass into Sheets, was past­ing them up on the Stone-sides of the Mosque, next the Sun, to dry; after which they are polished and glazed, and so made fit for their use.

In the Evening I saw the reason of our stay this day;A Pragmatical Portugal hin­dred me Em­barking. a Pragma­tical Portugal fled to this Place, for designing the death of a Fidalgo in the front of 40 Men marching to the Governor's; his Name Pedro Sylvio, a Rich Lout, no Gentleman: Besides these he keeps as a Guard to his Body, he has a Bloudy Leash of Cofferies imployed to be revenged on his Antagonist at Baçein; here he acts without Controle, and is about to accept of Pay under Seva Gi, he being courted there­to, because he is a bold desperate Fellow, the fitter Instrument to ruin his Nation.

In the mean time here arriving a Bombaim Boat,A Bombaim Shebar carries me to Bom­baim. she was presently disburthened of her Lading, and I Embarqued, and the 26th of May came abreast of Tanaw, the Pass here being another main Impedi­ment to the intended Trade up the Country with the Moors; which, had we in our possession, according to the Contract with Portugal, we might the easier make Seva Gi comply; and more than that, find Lordships for Englishmen, where they might live contentedly, and not be beholden to Foreign Supplies for Provisions: By Three the next Morning I Anchored against the Bunder at Bombaim, and Landed presently after Travally-Beat, delivering my Letter from the Caun to the President.

Here rode an Europe Ship called the Fleece; What Europe Ships I found in the Road. which lost her Passage last Year, coming too late out of England; and about Noon the Rain­bow arrived, they being both forced to put in at Bombass, an Island of the Portugals on the Coast of Melinda, which produces excellent Ivory, and other Miracles, from whence they failed together; till just on this Shore a Storm separated them, the Fleece gaining this Port; the Rainbow fell first in with Surat, and to Day came to an Anchor here.

Thus if I have been too prolix in this Narrative,The Conclu­sion. I must beg your pardon for endeavouring to satisfy you on two Scores, which none but one of my Profession must pretend to; the one relating to the Women, and the other to their Fortified Gurs or Castles; and if it find your Acceptance, it is all the Aim I have, and my Pains is there­by sufficiently rewarded.

Bombaim 1675. Sept. 22.