A JOURNEY TO JERƲSALEM.
Aleppo.
THese serve to Accompany an Account of my Journey to the Holy Land, for which I might refer you to others, who have given a most exact Relation of that Pilgrimage, [Page 2]yet according to your desires, I present you with this my Description.
TUesday May 3. 1669. we set Sail from Scanderoon, with a N. E. wind on the Margaret, Tho. Middleton Commander, being fourteen English Men, (of the Factory of Aleppo) in Company; but being forced to return three times, by contrary Winds, by May 10. we arrived at Trippoly, whose Port is guarded with six small Castles, near the Sea, and one great Castle upon the Land; and is defended from Tempests, on the West with Islands, and on the East, with a Cape of Land; so that none but a North wind can be [Page 3]prejudicial to Ships in this Port: the Ground is stony, which forc'd the Captains to buoy up their Cables, the ships riding in six or seven Fathom Water.
The Town is about a mile from the Marine, situated upon the shelf of a Hill, and hath one good Castle for its defence; the Town is ruinate, and there were few People to be seen, at that time, it being the time of making white Silk, most of the People being in their Gardens.
May Thirteen, after three days Treatment by the Consul (for English, French and Dutch) with extraordinary Civility; about four of the clock in the afternoon, we set forward for Mount [Page 4] Lebanon, and two hours Riding from Trippoly, we pitched our Tent at the Village Coffersinue; the Inhabitants are Christians, and live in houses made of Reeds, and Covered with Bushes; and the Rode to this Village, is very good and pleasant, passing to it, through a Forrest of Olive Trees; and in the Valleys, are Gardens of Mulberries, with which they feed their Silk-Worms.
Friday May fourteenth, we departed from Coffersinue, about four of the clock in the morning, passing in a good Rode, and through Plains sowed with Wheat: about six of the Clock, we passed over several Mountains resembling Marble, if not [Page 5]really so; from which we had a very good Prospect of the fruitfulness of the Valleys: between these Mountains, upon the ascent of an Hill, we came to a Fountain where we break-fasted; at seven of the clock we rose from the Fountain, and having passed a very dangerous ragged Mountain, about nine of the Clock we came to Eden, a small Village, and extraordinary pleasantly seated, being surrounded with Mulberries, Walnuts, and other sorts of Trees; Walnut especially we found very common on this Mount: we went to the Bishops House, a most miserable ruinated Cottage, where the Bishop coming to bid us welcome, appeared more like a [Page 6]Dunghil-raker then a Bishop. We enquired whence this Village had its name, the Maronites (which generally inhabit the Mountains) say, this was the place where Adam committed the sin of Eating the Forbidden Fruit; but the Bishop told us, it was in Heaven, where there were three Trees, Adam being forbidden to eat of one of them which wa the Fig-tree: but having eaten, he fell from Heavan, and fell among the Cedars (which are some two hours riding from the Bishops house), and there he began to till the Ground. But the Bishop being very Ignorant of these things, we forbear to enquire farther. The Bishops have great respect shewed them, [Page 7]every one Kissing his Hand on their Knees bareheaded: in his House he hath a ruinate Church, with an Altar in it; and a little beyond his house, is a little Chappel, neer the head of the Rivolet that feeds his house with water, where we found many men with Frank names, which had continued there from the Year 1611.
Mid-day coming, the Bishop made what Preparation his house would afford for Dinner, killing two Kids, and a Goat, and giving us the best Wine the Mountain did afford, being a well relished Red and White Wine.
Night coming, after Supper, we kiss'd his Hand; and next [Page 8]morning, we being now but twelve in Company, went to take our leave of him, and made him a present of Livers, besides something to the servants, as is usual for Pilgrims that take this Voyage; two of our Company waiting our return at Trippoly.
Saturday May the fifteenth, about five a Clock in the morning, we rose from thence, and about eight of the Clock we came to the Cedars; all that remain of them, being in a very small compass: We spent some time in cutting sticks, and setting our Names on the great Trees.
At this place there came to us the Captain of a Village, called Upshara, an hours riding from [Page 9]the Caedars. In our way, as we returned; he envited us to Dinner at his Village, which we accepted of, and after dinner made him a Present; This man is a Maronite, and takes Caffar or Toll of the Turks, which pass that way with their Sheep and Oxen; he hath a hundred Souldiers under his Command, who are all Christians.
About two a clock we mounted, and after three hours riding, we came to a mighty deep Descent, winding in and out, which is the way to the Patriark of the Maronites house, called Caunibone; it is a very good Convent, and lies under the Rocks, they have a Bell in the Church as in Europe, and goe [Page 10]to their Devotions Morning and Evening: After we had kissed the Patriarks hand, we demanded what was to be seen, and the Druggerman carried us to see St. Marene's Grot, of whom they recount this Story.
‘That a Venetian, in the time that the Franks had the Countrey, came with his wife and and one daughter to live there; and after some years, his Wife dying, he was resolved to goe into the Covent and live a religious life, and would therefore have his Daughter to leave him; but his perswasions could not prevail with her; but rather than leave her Father, she would put on mans Apparrel, and live a devoted life with [Page 11]him also; which at last (though unwilling) he assented to (she being young and handsom;) there they lived very strictly for several years; afterward her Father dyed: And the lay Brothers and Fathers going out, as usually, to Till the ground; She seldome went with them, the Chief of the Convent keeping her at home (being much taken with such a handsome young man as he thought) whereupon they began to grumble, that St. Marrene did not go with them; so that at last, to satisfy the Fratres, he was sent out to work among them near the Village Tursa: presently after, one of the young Virgins of that Village [Page 12]proving with Child, she came to the Convent, and laid it to the charge of St. Marrena; who was thereupon presently excommunicated, and lived a Religious life in the Grot neer the Convent, for the space of 7 years; and being then again admitted into the Covent, & still continuing to live a very strict Life, he at length dyed; and the Fathers coming according to their Custome, to Anoint the Body, found that he was a Woman; whereupon they began to Cross themselves, and to beg Pardon for Excommunicating her; and have built an Altar in the Grot, and call it by the Name of St. Marrena; as they have also in several [Page 13]Grots thereabouts, in remembrance of the Religious Relicks of those that dwelt therein; and when they carry any body to see them, they presently fall down to Prayers.’
About a League from the Convent, are two French-men that live a Hermits life, haveing Bread and Wine allowed them by the Patriark: Night comming on, we went to Supper with the Patriark, the Bishop of Aleppo, and two other Bishops, they having provided what the Place afforded; At Supper they brought out a great Glass, which held neer two Quarts, with which the Old Man soon made himself [Page 14]merry, it being their Custome to drink freely; He telling us, that that Glass had belonged to the Convent more than one hundred Years, and that the Turks coming once to Ransack the Convent, seeing this Glass, told one of the Fratres, if he could drink off that full of pure Wine, he would save the Convent; which one of them doing, the Turks went away admiring what sort of People they were.
May sixteen, We took our leave of the Patriark, and presented him with some Livers, as also to the poor Frasres, and other People that belonged to the Convent, and so took our Journey to Trippoly, having had [Page 15]a fair review of those Mountaines, and the Countrey adjacent, which is over-spread with many fair Villages, and hath many fruitful Vallyes sown with Corn, and great quantity of Mulberry Gardens; it being the general imployment of the Inhabitants to make Silk.
We Return to Trippoly to the Consuls House that Night, where after two dayes repose, and having been extraordinary well Treated, we took our leave of the Consul.
May, eighteen, about midnight, we set sail for Joppa, with a good Wind; in the Morning we came in sight of Cape-Blanco, where the wind proving [Page 16]contrary, we were forced to beat up and down for two days, before we could weather the Cape the wind coming good, we weatherd the Cape, and came in sight of Cape-Carmel, which two Capes make the Bay of Aerica, on which there is a Convent of white Friers, and there they shewd us Elishas Tomb. And three or four hours Sail further, we came in sight of Cesarea, now Ruinate, and inhabited by a Company of Savage Arabs.
May twenty three, we Arrived at Joppa, which hath no harbour to defend Ships from Storms, but hath very good ground to Anchor in, about ten Fathom Water: It is a poor [Page 17]Town, and hath one Castle to defend those ships that come in close to the Shore; the cheif Trade thereof, is Pot-ashes for Soap, and a few Cottons, and Cotton-Yarn, which the Franks bring from thence.
May twenty four, We Arrived at Ramah, which is a pleasant Village; the great Trade of the Inhabitants is in Fillado's; the People are poor, and the livelyhood of the Women is to Spin that Commodity: We were Treated there at the Convent, till a Messenger was dispatched to the Convent at Jerusalem, for our Admittance to pass thither, because of some extravagant Stories that flew abroad, of the Plague raging [Page 18]in the place from whence we came: our messenger returned back that night.
May the twenty fifth, in the morning, we mounted to take our Journey for Jerusalem, and baited at St. Jeroms Church about twelve of the Clock, to Eat what small provisions we had with us: and the heat of the Day being passed, we proceeded on our Journey; and about four of the Clock in the afternoon we Arrived at Jerusalem, at Joppa Gate; where we tarried till the Druggerman of the Convent went to the Caddy for Licence for us to enter the City; which having obtained, and delivering up our Swords, and what other Armes we had, [Page 19]to be carried to the Convent; we entred the City on Foot, and were conducted by the Durggerman to the Latines Convent, with two or three Fathers Accompanying us; we sound them at their Devotions, and afterwards we all went into the Father Guardians Chamber, who imbraced us, and bid us welcome; We were carried to our Lodgings, and the Father Procurator came to us, and passed a Complement on us, bringing two or three bottles of the best Wine, and desiring us to call for what we wanted; this was our first Entertainment.
But I should have given you an Account that our Druggerman, [Page 20] Mallinis Salley by name, who conducted us from Joppa, through the Mountains up to Jerusalem, was formerly a Robber himself, and could therefore the better carry us through the Arabs, who molest those Mountaines and live all upon Purchase; he was a Greek by Nation and Religion.
Now to our further Entertainment at Jerusalem; the next morning Father Tomaso, a Laybrother, one mighty serious, and Religious in their way, came to our Chamber with Milk, Wine and Fruit, (with a Blessing in his Mouth) the season being very hot: and about twelve of the Clock we went to Dinner, two or three [Page 21]Lay Brothers attending at the Hall door, with a Bason and Ewer for us to wash; and then entring the Hall, the Fathers stood all on one side near one another, saying Grace in Latin, and then singing the Lords Prayer altogether; and afterward bowing toward the Picture of our Saviour at Supper with his Apostles, which is placed over the Guardians Head, adorned with Silver Crosses about it, &c.
The Guardian hath his Table alone in the middle of the Room, and two long Tables stand of each side, one for the Pilgrims, and the other for the Fathers; after they had kiss'd the ground, we all sate down, and had every [Page 22]one his alotment brought in a little dish, of which we never wanted three or four Courses of several sorts of Meat: our Wine, Water, and Fruit, was set ready for us; the Wine was about a Quart, the Water something less, which was the allowance of two men, and had two Glasses belonging to it: about the middle of Dinner, the Frater came, and changed our Water, that it might drink the fresher.
Dinner being ended, the Father — Guardian knocks, and the Fraters rise and kneel with their Faces toward the Picture of our Saviour with his Disciples at Supper, and mumbling something to themselves, they kiss [Page 23]the ground, and then begin to take away; one taking away the Dishes, another the Knives, every one having his appointment, and then give Thanks in the same manner as before Dinner; then washing at the door, they go into the Church to Prayer, for a quarter of an hour; this they do daily, rising always early, and in the Night also, to go to Mass.
At this time there were two or three Christians come from Bethlehem, whose art is to make the Figure of our Saviours Sepulcher, or what Holy Story you please, upon your Arm; they make it of a blew colour, and it is done by the continuall pricking of your Arm with [Page 24]Needles; they began presently to go to work on some of us, and having presented us the Patterns of abundance of Prints, every one took his Fancy.
The next day, May twenty seven, we all agreed to goe into the Temple, and about four a Clock in the afternoon we went: There are about ten or twelve Fathers that live there continually, and have their Church there: The door is sealed with the Caddys Seal, and when any man goes in, he pays fourteen Livers; we being entred the Temple, the Fathers came and Saluted us, and conducted us to their Lodgings; where after we had been about [Page 25]an hour, they prepared to go in Procession to all the holy places, presenting us every one a Book of Holy Songs, for every place in Latin.
And so we set out, the Fathers being dressed in white Surplices; and the Cheif among them with Cloth of Silver over his Surplice, with two more dressed in the like Garb to lead him: there was a great Silver Cross carried before him, with the Picture of our Saviour Crucified upon it, and two men going on each side of it, with Incense Pots, to persume every Holy Place, that we came to. And so we went to these places following:
1 To the Pillar to which our [Page 26]Saviour was bound when he was scourged.
2 To the Prison, wherein our Saviour was put.
3 To the place where the Soldiers divided our Saviours Garments.
4 The place where St. Hellena found our Saviours Cross.
5 The Pillar to which our Saviour was bound when he was Crowned with Thorns.
6 To Mount Galvary, where he was Crucified.
7 The place where our Saviour was Nayled to the Cross.
8 To the place where he was Anointed.
9 To the Sepulcher of Christ.
10 To the place where our Saviour appeared to Mary Magdalen in the shape of a Gardiner.
[Page 27] 11 To the Chappel of the Virgin Mary, where our Saviour first appeared to her after his Resurrection.
I might give you a particuler description of the Adornment of these Places; but to be short, every one have Lamps burning at them; some are paved with Marble, others are hung with Pictures; the place where our Saviour was laid down to be nailed to the Cross, is paved with Marble; the place where he was Crucified, is paved with Marble also; but in the exact place where the Cross stood, the Marble is covered over with Silver, with Silver Lamps, and wax Candles continually burning; and our Saviour [Page 28]Crucified standing on it: the Sepulcher also is covered with Marble, with Silver Lamps continually burning on it; so hath the Anointing stone: you must go into the sepulcher barefoot, as also on Mount Calvary.
Here are all sorts of Christians have their Churches: The Greeks have the best, the Latins, the the Armenians, the Copty's, and the Syrians, have each of them Churches here.
The Greeks and Latines are the two powerful Religions in the Temple, and with great Sums of money, and the credit they have at Stambul or Constantinople, they continually buy these Holy Places out of one anothers Hands; the other Parties are Poor, and are therefore squeez'd into a small part [Page 29]of the Temple; The Latines that offered ten thousand Livers, for a peice of the Cross, which the Greeks bought out of their hands.
These Religious People bear little respect one to another, speaking very basely each of other.
After our Procession, we went to veiw all the places and Churches again; the Greeks have a place in the middle of their Church, which they say, is the middle of the World: they have another place by the Prison of Christ, with two holes to put the Feet in: there is also a narrow Passage between two Pillars, which is in imitation of the straightness of the Path to Heaven, which the [Page 30] Greeks Creep through.
In the Church of the Syrians, is the intended Sepulcher of Joseph of Arimathea, and Nicodemus: and near the Anointing Stone, is a Tomb, where Godfrey, and Baldwin, Kings of Jerusalem, are Buried. And in the same place is the Rent of the Rock, which begins above, near the place where our Saviour was Crucified; and in that Rent, they say Adams Head was found, when our Saviour gave up the Ghost. Thus having seen the Temple, we return'd to the Convent.
May the twenty eight, we went out of the City at Damascus Gate, and turning on the right Hand, we came to one of the Fish-ponds, belonging to the [Page 31]old City and a quarter of a Mile further, You come to the Grot where Jeremiah Lived, when he Wrote his Lamentations; on the left Hand in the entrance, is a Ledg in the Rock, about a Story High, where they say Jeremiah Slept; and below over against the Door, is a hole intended for his Sepulcher; and passing through a Ruinate Door, you come into the Yard, where his Well is, being a very good Spring of sweet Water; there you pay one Liver; afterwards passing along the side of a Mountain, that lies level with the City, a little beyond Jeremiahs Tomb, we came to the Sepulcher of the Kings; the entrance into the first Room, was so small and low, that we [Page 32]were forced to creep in, in which there were seven Sepulchers cut out of the Rock: in the second Room, there were eight Sepulchers more; and in the third Room twenty six more; and many more in several other Rooms: One of the Rooms hath a Dore of Stone, which is Cut out of the Rock, and shuts and opens as a Door with Hinges; this Door belongs to the Room, wherein Jehosaphat was Buried, his Coffin is of Stone with a Cover to it, and is very neatly Wrote on the sides with Flowers, as several of them are also in the first Room, but they know not what Kings they are; there is also one other Chamber into which we crept; so that there [Page 33]are in all, forty two Burying-Places under ground, to which there is but one door to enter, all adorned with Admirable Workmanship; which I being unskilled in, am unfit to express in proper Terms: and so we return to the Convent, entering the City at the same Gate.
May the Twenty-ninth, we reposed, some of our Company being a Marking.
May Thirty, we took Horse to go for Bethlehem, and went out at the West-Gate called Joppa-Gate, and turning on the left hand, and taking the lower Path, we passed along the Road that the Virgin Mary brought our Saviour, when She came to offer him at the [Page 34]Temple; and half a mile from the City is the place where the Tree Tirabintha grew, which the Virgin Mary sat under to give him Suck; but the Tree being Cut down, the place is incompassed with a Wall.
On the left hand you see Davids House, where he was when he spied Bathsheba Washing her self; on the right Hand a little out of the Road, is old Simeons House and Elias House; and a quarter of a Mile further you come to a Well, where the Wise Men first saw the Star; a little further is the ground where the Reapers were at work, when Habbakuk comming to bring them Meat, the Angel took him up by the hair of the Head, and carried [Page 35]into Babylon to Daniel in the Lions Den: afterward we saw Jacobs House; and a hill like a Sugar Loaf: where the Franks remained forty Years, after they were driven out of Jerusalem; next is a Monastery of Monks of the order of St. Tavola Paula Romana, who when they dye, are Buryed at the Convent in Bethlehem.
A Mile further is the place where the Angels appeared to the Sheppards, and sayd, Gloria in excelsis, &c. when our Saviour was Born, where there hath been a Convent; but now there only remaines an Arched Vault, where we paid Money to the Arabs; who when they espy any Franks going thither, Ride post before to take Possession [Page 36]of the place, and get something from them; A quarter of a Mile from hence, in the way to Solomons Cisterns, is the Village of the Shephards, on the backpart whereof is a Well, of which they say, the Virgin Mary defired to Drink; but the Inhabitants denying to draw her any Water, it presently Overflowed for her to Drink: a little way from this Village, is Josephs House; and a little after, we came to Solomons Garden lying shelving: At the bottom of them is the Road from Gran Cairo, and round the Top passes the Aqueduct, which feeds Jerusalem with Water; (from thence we saw Tekoa standing on a high Hill) the water [Page 37]comes from the Fountains which feed Solomons Cisterns; passing a Mile along by the Aqueduct, we came to Solomons Cisterns, which are Three; the first had no Water in it, and might be about two hundred and fifty Yards long, and sixty Yards broad, and of a great depth; the second, it had little Water, and was something less in Compass; the third was full of Water and as big as the first: they run one into another, and are fed by the spring that feeds the City.
The Fathers say, that they were made to Swim in, they being built with steps for a Man to goe down, but they seem rather to be intended for a reserve of Water for the City [Page 38]or the Gardens, they having passage to both; neer the Gardens, there is an ill-contrived Castle, where a few Villains inhabit, to whom we paid one Liver per Man for leave to goe into the Grot; where the Springs are that feed the City, and the Cisterns; the Grot is large, and hath three Springs in it, and a large passage cut through the Rock, toward the Cisterns, passable by a Man, but we went not to the end of it.
We mounted our Horses to proceed on our Journy, leaving the Castle on the Right Hand, and at a distance we saw St. Georges Church, where the Fathers say, the Chaines remain wherewith St. George was bound, which [Page 39]will presently cure a Mad-man if he bound therewith.
After an hour and a halfes Riding, we came neer to Bethlehem, where passing through a narrow Lane, the Guard consisting of four or five Musquetiers, received five Livers of every one of us, and our Druggerman that went with us, received three: and arriving at the Convent, we payd one for our entrance; and after our being welcomed by the Fathers, we took our repose till five of the Clock in the Evening; and then we prepared to goe in Procession to the Holy Places in the same manner as we did at the Temple in Jerusalem; the Places we Visited were these:
[Page 40] 1 The Place where our Saviour was Born.
2 The Tomb of St. Joseph to whom the Virgin Mary was espoused.
3 St. Innocents Tomb.
4 The place where St. Jerom lived, when he translated the Bible into Latin.
5 St. Jeroms Praying place.
6 St Jeroms Tomb.
7 St Pauls Tomb.
8 St. Eustachias her Danghter.
9 The Sepulcher of St. Eusebius, Abbot of Bethlehem.
10 We return to the Chappel of St Catherena, which they say was built by St. Panla.
Next is the great Church without the Convent, which hath forty eight Pillars of Marble [Page 41]about three Yards long, all in one Peice.
At Evening we went to visit the place of our Saviours Birth, which formerly belonged to the Latins, till the Greeks bought it out of their Hands; so that now the Latins, when they goe their Procession, Pray at that Door by which they formerly entred.
The Precipior hath two Doors, one exactly over against the other, which are well Lined with Carved Iron, and strengthed with Iron Spikes: We went in Bare-foot, on the Right hand in the entrance, is the place they say where our Saviour was Born, which is Lined with Marble; and in the midle of the Room there is a little place covered [Page 42]with Silver, by which they set a Dish to receive your Charity: On the left Hand is the Manger where the Virgin Mary laid our Saviour; which is Lined with Marble; and at the end of the Manger on the Right Hand, is the Picture of St. Jerom naturally in the Marble, which the Fathers esteem as a Miracle.
Over against this Manger, is the place where the three Wise Men stood, when they came to Worship our Saviour: and at the further end of this place in a corner, is a hole made up up with Marble, wherein they say, the Virgin Mary put the Water, when she had washed her hands: Over which a Lamp Burns continually: and there are also a great many Lamps [Page 43]burning in the other Places. Over this Precipio, in the great Church, is the Altar of Circumcision, where our Saviour was Circumcised.
We having seen what was Rare at Bethlem, May thirty One, early in the Morning, we Rose to proceed in our Journey, in which we saw these Places following.
1 The Grot where the Virgin Mary hid her self, when she was Warned to Fly into Egypt, & her Milk running out of her Brests there, made the Earth turn White; which Earth the Catholicks do very much esteem.
2 Davids Cisterns.
3 The Grot wherein the Virgin Mary and Joseph lived, before [Page 44]they could get a House.
4 The Tomb of Rachel, Jacobs Wife, which the Turks do also much esteem.
5 The Feild of Sennacharib, where the Angel of the Lord flew in one Night, One hundred eighty 5000. of the Syrians; in this place is a Village, which is called Botechelle, where the Fathers affirm, no Turk can live.
6 The place where the Pillars of the Convent of Ramath were built.
7 The Vinyard from whence the Spyes of the Land of Canaan took the Cluster of Grapes, to show the fruitfulness of the Land; there is also the Fountain, where Philip Baptized the Queen of Sheba's Eunuch.
9 The Desarts of John Baptist; [Page 45]and after an hours Riding, we came to John Baptists Fountain, where was his Chamber; and a Rock, wherein there was a place cut out like a bench for his Bed; to break off any bit of this Rock, is Worthy excommunication.
10 Zacharias House, where the Virgin Mary came to salute her Couzen Elizabeth; for the Angel that told her she should conceive, told her also, that her Couzen was with Child; and upon her Salutation, the Child leaped in the Womb: Near this House is a Fountain with two Cisterns which is called Elizabeths Fountain.
11 There is a Stone where John Baptist Preached, which the Fathers say, the Turks have endeavoured to break in peices but could not.
[Page 46] 12 The place where John Baptist was Born, now a Stable; but formerly a Church, where the Fathers upon John Baptists day carry their Organs thither, and Adorn the Place for their Prayers.
13 The Tombs of the Maccabees, which we saw at a distance, and being ruinated, appear as so many Arches.
14 We passed by a Village, where the Men are all Turks, and the Women Christians; for the People being poor, the Turks were very severe with them for their Harach; who not being able to pay all at once, turned Turks, &c.
15 We came to the Mountain Crupil, where part of the Wood whereof our Saviours Cross was [Page 47]made, was cut down, and over the place where they say the Tree stood, from which it was cut, there is a stately Church, which is in the Possession of the Greeks; the just place where the Tree grew is inlayd with Silver, by which they set a Dish for your Charity: the Flore of this Church is well Wrought with Mosaick Work, and painted with Scripture Stories; and instead of a Bell, they knock upon a board, that hangs up, which sounds somewhat like a Bell.
And now we goe forward to the Convent at Jerusalem, passing by Mount Grhon, where Solomon was Anointed King; and about night we came to our Lodgings, having made two [Page 48]days journey to see the Holy Places, and Traverse the Mountains of Judea; we slept very well that night, but still we have more Pilgrimages.
June 1. We lay still to recover our selves of our Bethlem Journey, but Father Tomasa out of his Zeal, is very importunate with us to be walking to see other places, which is very Meritorious in the Roman Church; and had we been of their Religion, it had been impossible to have mist Heaven; for we had received indulgences for all our Lives; which fancy I wish doth not deceive too many.
June the second, We began to search for the Holy places, which are these following.
1 The Immolation of Isaac [Page 49]neer the Temple, called Mount Morea, which place is inlay'd with Silver, and a dish set by for your Offering.
Secondly, Peters Prison, still made a Prison by the Turks: at the further end of which, is a hole in the Wall, where they say the Chain was fastened, with which St. Peter was Chained; litle remembring, how often Jerusalem hath been destroyed, and the Stones of that Old Wall, are now probably as far under Ground, as these are above.
Thirdly, The Monastery of the Knights of Malta; a very fair building, one Room whereof hath several Partitions for Beds, with a hole in the middle, that if any of them are [Page 50]Sick or Fluxitive, they are layd there; to which the Water, (being Bad) and the Air unwholesome, doth very much incline them.
Fourthly, Solomons Temple; which, if any Christian goe into, or but up the stairs, he must Turn Turk, or be burnt: The Rarity of which I shall give you an Account of, when I come to a Prospect.
Fifthly, St. Hellena's Hospital, where there are seven great Caldrons, in which she used to have Provisions dressed for the Poor, where we pay one Liver for entrance.
Sixthly, the Judgement Gate, at which our Saviour was brought in: and some distance from the Gate, is the place [Page 51]where he was Condemned.
Seventhly, The Dolorous Way, which is the way that Christ went, when he went to be Crucified; and in the way is the House of St. Veronica, who gave our Saviour a Napkin to wipe his Face, as he passed by: there is also Lazarus's House, and the House of the Rich Glutton; and the place where our Saviour Fainted as they say, and Simon took up the Cross; and neer that, is the Church, where the Virgin Mary stood to see him pass by, and Swounding with Grief; now called the Virgin Maries Church.
Eightly, Herods Palace, now ruinated, and is now the Bassha's Seraglio; in one Room [Page 52]is the place where they Clothed our Saviour with Purple.
Ninethly, Pilates House, where they shew the place, where our Saviour was Crowned with Thorns, and the Pillar to which he was bound, which was brought from thence, and put into the Temple: next, we enter the Hall, where Pilate Washed his Hands, & declared himself Innocent of our Saviours Blood: out of which place we had a fair Prospect of Solomons Temple; which is built within the middle of a spacious Yard very well Paved; there are several Arches, good Walks, and Buildings about it: the Temple is Wrought with Mosaick Work, and by the Turks report, is very Rich within, it being one of their Mosques; and though they have a half [Page 53]Moon upon all their Temples or Mosques, yet this only hath a Cross through the middle: The Fathers reporting it would not stand till the Cross was made.
Tenthly, The place where Christ was Scourged, which is now a Shop for Linnen Cloth; but the Pillar to which our Saviour was bound, is brought from thence, and put into the Temple.
Eleventhly, The House of Annas, where our Saviour being carried along with great Violence down a steep place, to prevent falling, he layd hold of the corner of a Wall, where there is a place, in one of the Stones, fit for a Mans Hand, which the Fathers account [Page 54]a great Miracle.
Twelfthly, Simon the Pharisees House, where there is a Stone, with the print of a Foot, which they say our Saviour made, when he stood to pardon Mary Magdalen her Sins: The Fathers say, the Turks have endeavoured several times to remove this Stone, but still it comes into the same place again.
Thirteenth, The House of Joakim, and Anna: a fair high Building; and down in an under Room, cut out of the Rock, is the place where they say, The Virgin Mary was Born.
Fourteenth, The Pool of Bethesda, where the Sick lay to be healed; the Angel comming [Page 55]Yearly to Trouble the Water, and he that entred in first, was healed; but it is now dry, and half filled with Earth.
Fifteenth, St. Stephens Gate, and a little out of the City, is the place where Stephen was Stoned: and the Fathers would have you to fancy, that there is the print of his Hands, Face, and Knees, when he fell down.
Sixteenth, The Vally of Jehosophat, which is at the bottom of the Hill, between the the Mountain on which Jerusalem stands, and Mount Olivet.
Seventeenth, The Place where the Virgin Mary is Buried; where going down a great many stone steps, you come [Page 56]into a large Vault, where all the Christians have their Altars apart, all being of several Opinions, and the Turks, and Christians, do both burn Lamps, over her Grave; here we pay One Liver for entrance; and Forty eight Stone Steps upward, is Josephs Tomb; and over against that, are the Tombs of Joakim and Anna.
Eighteenth, The place where Christ sweat Bloud, and the Angel appeared to Comfort him, is neer the bottom of Mount Olivet.
Nineteenth, The Place where our Saviour Prayed, that This Cup might pass from him; and neer that place, is the Rock on which his Disciples sate, [Page 57]when he went to Prayer, between which two places he was taken, it is now bordering on the Garden of Gethsemena, but might formerly have been part of the Garden, and is on the Ascent of the Mount of Olivet; where the Multitude going to Carry our Saviour away, Peter smote off Malcus his Ear, in in the way to the City.
Twentyeth, The Place where they say the Virgin Mary Prayed for St. Stephen, while he was Stoning.
Twenty first, The place where Christ Wept over Jerusalem; it is almost at the Top of Mount Olivet.
Twenty second, The Place our Saviour Ascended into Heaven, having as they say, left [Page 58]the Print of his Foot on a Stone: it hath now a Chappel built over it, with fourteen Marble Pillars round it, it is at the top of Mount Olivet; and a little way off, is the Place where the Men of Gallilee stood, when the Angel asked them, Why stand ye Gazing up?
Twenty third, The Place is shewed us, where the Angel told the Virgin, she should be Raysed in three Days.
Twenty fourth, Pelagius his Grot; from whence we saw Bethpage, where the Asses Colt was tied.
Twenty fifth, The Tree under which our Saviour stood, when he Preached the Judgment Sermon.
[Page 59] Twenty sixth, The place where he made the Lords Prayer.
Twenty seventh, The Place where the Apostles made the Creed; being a Grot of twelve Arches.
Twenty Eight, The Sepulchers of the Prophets, being Forty seven in Number, cut out of the Rock; and entring in at a Door, we came into a large Grot, where there were several places to cut out, fit to contain a Coffin: here we paid one Liver.
Twenty Nineth, The Tree where Judas Hanged himself.
The Thirtyeth, The Sepulcher which Jehosophat intended for himself; but being a King, he was buried in the Sepulcher, [...] the Kings.
[Page 60] Thirty One, Absoloms Pillar or Sepulcher, which is cut out of the Rock, and about the bigness of a small Chamber, with Pillars cut out round about; so that it stands like a Room built for some single Person: it is of a good Height, and hath some Carving about it.
Thirty Two, They say hereby is the Print of Christs Feet; for when he was Carried to Jerusalem, he stopped at the Brook Cedron, and desired to Drink: This Brook is now but a small Channel, and had no Water in it, when we were there; but in the Winter time, the Water comes down from the Hills, and makes a small Current.
Thirty Three, Next is the [Page 61]Place where Saint James hid himself three Days, and three Nights; it is a place cut out of the Rock, which must needs have been made for a dwelling place; neer this is the Sepulcher of Zacharias the Son of Barachias, cut out of the Rock.
Thirty four, On the side of the Hill, on which Solomon Worshipped Molock, are Chambers cut out of the Rock, which they say was the place, wherein the Three Hundred Wives, and One Thousand Concubines of Solomon were kept.
Thirty Five, The Fountain of the Virgin Mary, which you goe down to by Stone Steps; the Water whereof is so Sweet, that were a Man blindfolded, [Page 62]he could not think it to be any thing but Milk and Water.
Thirty Six, The Place where the Prophet Isaiah was Sawn Asunder: his Sepulcher is under a Rock neer the same Place.
Thirty Seven, The Fountain of Siloa, by which is a Cistern, wherein formerly the Pilgrims used to Wash, but it is now Ruined, and filled with Stones and Mud, yet it is Water still accounted good for the Eye-Sight; and near this is Golgotha.
Thirty Eight, And near this Place, in a bottom, is a Well, wherein they say Nehemiah hid the Holy Fire, when the Children of Jsrael were carried [Page 63]Captive; and when they returned Forty Years after, they say they found the same Fire in the Well.
Thirty Nine, Ascending up the Mount, we came to the Tombs of Annas and Caiphas.
Forty, And near it is the Place where the Apostles hid themselves; where entring a streight passage, we came into a Room under Ground, out of which there goe several holes, wherein they say, the Apostles Lay.
Forty One, We then came to Aceldama, a Grot, which is now held by the Armenians for a Burying Place: it is said, the Earth thereof, will consume the Body of a Man, in Forty [Page 64]Eight Hours: there are several Vents on the Top to let out the smell: We went down under a Rock, to a place where we could look into it, and we there saw the form of a Man entire, they being only layd in, but not Covered with Earth.
Forty Second, We came to the Fountain of Bersheba, which is at the bottom of Mount Sion, in which there is now but little Water, we being forced to tarry a quarter of an hour for one Draught.
Having now seen all that was Remarkable in these Parts, we made toward the Convent, having got a great deal of Credit with Father Tomasa; that we should be such Zealous Pilgrims, [Page 65]as to walk from five a Clock in the Morning till Midday; but he to encourage us, would still be formost; and told us always, there was some place more worth our seeing, then any we had seen before: and though he was an old man, and the Weather hot, yet at the going up of a Hill, he would run, that he might be foremost: and gave us all the good Words that could be, to encourage us Protestants, who never hoped or thought, that we Merited any thing by it: but at length we came to the Convent again, and being well weary, every one retired to his Lodings.
June Third, we repose at the Convent; after Dinner, one [Page 66]the Fathers came and told us, that the Father Guardian would wash our Feet; which Honour we accounted too great for us, and desired to be excused▪ but we were forced to comply with the Orders of the Convent; The Bason, which was as big as a Tub, was placed by a Chair; there were Rose-Leaves and Herbs put into the Water; the Fathers all stood in a Row, Singing Godly Hymns; we sat down, and the Father Guardian wrapt a Towel about our Knees, to keep our Cloths from Water; then they began to scrub our Leggs and Feet, (being Masters of their Art) there were two Fratres attending, one on one Leg, and another on the other; having first [Page 67]dryed the left Foot, the Frater kisses it, and puts on our Slipper; then he dryes the Right Foot, and wraps the Towel about the Sole of the Foot, and setting it on his Knee, and covers the Toes with his Hand, and then come all the Fratres, and Kisses it; this being done, he gives us a little Candle, in taking of which, we kiss his Hand, and so rise and stand by, till all our Company are Washed in like manner. Then went we in Procession, round their Chappel, they saying several Prayers, at their three Altars, and so we return to our Chambers.
June the Fourth, After Dinner, we went into the Kitchen, where we found [Page 68]all the Fathers, with Napkins before them, washing the Dishes, every one taking his part, even to the Father Guardian himself; some were cleaning some handing away; but all the while, with one Consent, they say some Prayer; it seeming to be their endeavour, that all that they do, may be done to the Glory of God; this being done, they goe all to the Chappel to Prayers, and you shall never see the Chappel, without some of them at Prayers; yea, and two or three times in the Night they Rise to Prayers.
On Whitsunday, the Chappel was Adorned something Extraordinarily, and there was a very Rich Canopy, set on [Page 69]the Right Hand of the high Altar, for the Father Guardian to sit under; when the Prayers began, the Father Guardian came into the Chappel, and sate under this Canopy: There were three or foure Fathers Drest in Cloth of Silver, much after the manner of a Herald; two whereof attend on each side of the Guardian, and two stand over against him.
Then they began to dress the Father Guardian in his Festival Robes, and having read two or three Lines, they put a peice of Linnen laced about this Neck, and then his Surplice, Reading still between every Robe that was put on. Then they cover him with a Garment of Rich Sattin, and Cloth of Silver; the two [Page 70]that stand over against him, bowing at some words. His body being thus drest, the two Fathers, put a Myter upon his head, doing it with all the Respect Imaginable; after a short Prayer, they take the Father-Guardian by the hand, and lead him to the Altar, he standing in the middle of the four Fathers, adorned as aforesaid; the other Fathers have their Surplices on, and the Organs go; then making a short Prayer at the Altar, they lead the Gardian to his place again; and after a little reading, they take off his Myter, and he sits bare till the Prayer be done: then they put on another Myter; the first was of Cloth of Silver, and the second was of Cloth of [Page 71]Gold, set full of Rubies, and Diamonds, and other sorts of Stones; they afterward took off that also, and put on a third Myter, which was of Cloth of Gold, something differing in shape, from the others.
The Guardian being led, to and from the Altar, a great while, at length, when they came to read that place, where the Holy Ghost came down upon the Apostles, assembled together, there was a Father upon the Terrass, appointed to throw down a white Pidgeon drest up with Ribbons, in imitation of the Holy Ghost, but he met with some difficulty; for the window was so fast shut that he could not open it a great while, so that we had like to [Page 72]have gone away without their Holy Ghost: but this difficulty being overcome, he made the Dove descend among us; which being done, after a Prayer, they began to undress the Father Guardian again, reading all the while his Robes were taking off; and so that days service was done.
Now we began to think of going to the Dead Seas, and the River Jordan, we therefore demanded what our expence would be, the Fathers say, twenty five Livers, but we all agreed not to give above twenty; The Fathers sent our resolution to the Bassa, and he return'd us this answer, That if we would goe, we should pay twenty two Livers; and if we would not, [Page 73]he would have ten Livers a man; we thinking our selves under his command, and not willing to embroyl the Convent, for they are to bare all damages, as they have done for several; but thanks be to God, none hapned in our time.
We all resolved to goe, except Mr. T. H. and one Englishman more, and a Dutchman, not thinking the Bashaw had been in earnest; but because they went not, they were forced to pay ten Livers for nothing; we then came to Bethany, now a small Village, where entring into a Grot under ground, we saw a Tomb, from whence they say our Saviour raysed Lazarus, after he had been dead so many dayes; here we had the [Page 74] Bashaws guard to wait upon us, for fear of the Arabs, who are on the other side Jordan in the land of Moab; who doe often make incursions, and have sharp disputes, at the end of the Lance, with those that live on this side, in the land of Promise; The Bashaw pretended, that he must send fifty men with us, but it proved but fourteen or sixteen,
Having reposed a little on the ground, about nine of the clock at night, we mounted our Horses, and passing through the turning and winding of the Mountains, we came in the Morning to the foot of the Quarantine Mountain, where we dismounted; and making the cold earth our bed, we slept [Page 75]two or three hours, having our horses made fast to our hands, and the Sun rising, we rose also, and walked to Elisha's Fountain, a stones throw off; and before the Sun was too hot, we Mounted our Horses at the foot of the Mountain, and so began to ascend, it being very steep; having ascended a great height, we came to the place where they say, our Saviour slept, when he Fasted Forty days; and from that the Mountain received its name; this place is neer the height of the Mountaine, but the passage to the top, is Known only to the Arabs; here is a Church over this place, where some Fathers have lived, till they were Murdered by the Arabs.
[Page 76] Below this place are several Cisterns of water, and several Frontispeices of Chappels, but the passage to them is cut off; as we were going up, the thoughts of the danger of descending, enters into our heads, and the Emperour of Germanies Druggerman for these Countrey Languages, being extraordinary fearful, got two Turks to conduct him down, and so we having all had a safe descent, we rode cheerfully back to Elisha's Fountain, which was formerly bitter; but he throwing in a handful of salt, the waters became sweet.
Here we lay till Four a clock, and the heat of the Sun being over, we made for Jericho, where we arrived about five, [Page 77]where there are now, only a few poor Cottages: we pitched by Zacheus Tree, the Inhabitants are for the most part Arabians, and some few Greeks: here the Captain of the Village came to welcome our Bashaw and his people; he was mounted upon a Mare, valued at a Thousand Livers, Mares being only in esteem among them; here we reposed under a rotten hedg, till about four of the Clock next mourning; haing little pleasure in our companions, the Gnats, and other stinging creatures.
We proceed for the River Jordan, where we arrived by day-light, and tarried about an hour to swim in the River; the stream is strong, and rapid; [Page 78]and the force of a man, can little more then resist it; it runs into the Dead Sea.
Our Guard were very hasty for us to be gone, being afraid their Enemies should find them; therefore we all made ready, and set forward for the Dead Sea; about two hours after in our way to the Sea, we passed through a most cursed barren place, not having so much as a green herb or grass, and the face of the earth was covered with Salt, and though it was dry, yet our Horses sunk up to the Knees.
We come now to the Dead Sea, being about Seventy or Eighty Miles in Breadth, and about Eighteen Over: There is no place Visible from whence [Page 79]the Water, which comes into it, runs out again, except it be under the earth; neither doth it seem to Increase with the water of the River Jordan, and of sevaral other waters that run into it: It was once a fruitfull Valley, and compared for delight, unto Paradise, and was called Pentapolis, of her five Cities, and was afterward destroyed with fire from Heaven, and turned into this silthy Lake, and barren desolation which doth encompass it: & to try the virtue, that is reported to be in the water, wherein they say, a man cannot sink; some of our Company went into the Sea, and found it impossible to get their bodies under water, yea could hardly keep their legs [Page 80]under; The water is sulphury, and the extremity of the saltness is not to be exprest; when they came out of the water, there was a perfect Oyl upon their bodies.
Our Eyes being satisfied with Curiosities, and Rarities, we make what hast we can, back to Jerusalem: but I should have given you an Account, that the Ruins of one of the Cities, that were destoryed for Sodomy, now lyes good part out of the water, and is supposed to be Zeboim.
Now the Sun gets strenght, and grows extraordinary hot, and by reflection on the ground, makes the heat so violent, that our faces looked as if the skin were flead off, by riding [Page 81]in the Sun, from Morning till four of the Clock in the afternoon; but the Fathers being accustomed, to meet with tender-faced Travellers, soon provided something to mitigate our pain, which was much increased, by reason of the saltness of the water of the Dead Sea: this night we took little pleasure in eating, but more in sleeping, having had but little in this Voyage.
Having now visited all the places in the Holy Land, which Pilgrims usually do, we prepare our selves for our return. June Ninth, we being resolved to set forward in our Return; In the Morning the Father Guardian came to us, and gave us his blessing, and [Page 82]sprinkled us with Holy Water, desiring us to excuse our Bad Treatment, and that if at any time we had been distasted, we would pass it over; but we Knew it was but a complement, for we had the Civilest Entertainment imaginable, and very far from disgusting us; for there were none of them, but were not only ready to be our servants, but our Slaves, yea, my honest name-sake, Father Tomaso, never ceased from Morning to Night, from bringing us either Victuals or Drink, or asking us whether we wanted any thing; and now for this his fourteen days service, we were no ways capable to recompence him; for they would take no money, [Page 83]but for our Victuals, and for some other small services; we therefore presented to the Convent, thirty Livers apeice, and some that had servants presented more. The Father Procurator receiving it, they entred all our names in a Book, and the sums we gave; the Book where the names only were written, we had a view of, and took a Coppy, of all the Englishmens names that were in it, from the year One Thousand Five Hundred Sixty One, to this day, being One Hundred Fifty Eight in number.
Now taking our leaves of the Fathers, they all shewed a great deal of affection to us, weeping, and expressing their desires, to enjoy our company [Page 84]longer; and our desires were as much to be nearer home, that we might have an Account of our Freinds.
June the Fourth we departed, our Muletters having provided us Horses; and our intentions were to take Emaus in our way, but night drawing on, we made St. Jeroms Church our sleeping place; there were formerly Fathers lived in it, but the Arabs came upon them in the night, and cut all their throats; The Church is very well built, and hath been adorned with Pictures upon the wall, of which some remain to this day.
About too hours riding from Jerusalem, we passed over the brook, out of which they say, [Page 85] David gathered the pebble stones, wherewith he slew Goliah.
June Fifth, we arrived at the Convent in Ramath, about ten of the Clock in the Morning; where we tarried till about midnight, at which time there was a Ship to depart, and some of us intended to embarque; the rest of us took a little boat, about the bigness of a Gravesend Barge; we put our provisions of Bread and Wine aboard, and so we put to Sea, keeping always neer the shore, for fear of a storm.
After three days sayl, we arrived at Aerica, formerly called Ptolemais, we always coming to Anchor at night; this place is famous for nothing but the ruins, [Page 86]the Road being so bad, that all the Art Captains have, can but keep their Cables together.
The Commodities in this place, are only Cottons, Pot-ashes, and fome Filletto's.
Two days after we arrived at Tripoly, where we made bold, at our old House; the Consul receives us very gladly, and our design was, to depart next day, but the Plague still raging at Aleppo, the Consul forced us to stay with him Twelve or Fourteen days; all which time we were treated like Princes, and then by his leave, we imbarqued on a Dutch Ship for Scanderoon; the rest of our Company (whom we left at Aerica to goe to see the [Page 87]of Gallilee) being arrived.
June Twenty Six, we arrived at Scanderoon, where some were dead, and others dying, and one flying from another.
We tarried upon the Mount, and aboard the Ship for some time: and July 2d we arrived at Aleppo, where there dyed at that time, Seventy or Eighty of a day of the Plague.
And thus ended our Journey.