A Journey to Jerusalem: OR, A RELATION OF THE Travels of Fourteen English-Men, in the Year, 1669.

From Scanderoon, to Tripoly, Joppa, Ramah, Ierusalem, Bethlem, Jeri­cho, the River Jordan, the Dead Sea; And back again to Aleppo.

With an Exact Account of all the Remarkable Places and Things in their whole JOURNEY.

In a Letter from T. B. in Aleppo, to his Friend in London.

Together with a Map, and brief Account of the Ancient and Modern State of those Countries.

London, Printed by T. M. for N. Crouch in Exchange-Alley over against the Royal Ex­change in Cornhil, 1672.

A Iourney to IERVSALEM in the year 1669

The Temple of the Sepulcher

Ierusalem as it now is

London [...]ted for N Crouch in Exchange [...]


To the Reader

THis Relation comming to my Hands, I thought it might be some Diversion, to Observe what the Ig­norant are made to Believe, of those once Famous Places.

And though others have for­merly Treated of these Parts, yet we have hardly had an Exact Account since Mr. Sandys, which being so long since, No doubt some things are Altered, some Worn out of Memory, and it may be, many more Legends Added, Ac­cording as it may stand with the Interest and Profit of the Priests.

[Page] If the Stile be not so Polite and Curious, as might be Wisht, I dare Assure the Reader that the Author never intended it for Pub­like Veiw, but Writ it only as a Letter, to satisfy the desire of his Intimate Friends; wherein Men do not commonly so much Study Elloquence, as plainess and Truth; The last whereof I Suppose the Author is Guilty of, because he had no Temptation to do Other­wise; for I think it is not much Material to him, whether it be Be­lieved or noe. And therefore you may Read, and Judg of it as you Please.

A Brief Description of Palestine, with an Ac­count of the Ancient and Modern State of those Countries.

IN Former Ages, this was One of the most Famous­est Provinces of Sy­ria: Called,

First, The Land of Canaan, from Canaan the Son of Cham, who by his often Cha­sings [Page]was driven to Possess and Inhabite the same.

Secondly, It was called the Land of Promise, because the Lord had Promised it to the Pa­triarcks, Abraham, Isaack and Ja­cob, and their Seed.

Thirdly, Jsrael, of the Israe­lites, so called from Jacob, who was Sur-named Israel.

Fourthly, Judea, from the Jews, or People of the Tribe of Juda.

Fifthly, Palestine, by Ptolo­mays and others, quasi Philistini: The Land of the Philistines, a potent Nation that dwelt there.

Sixthly, The Holy Land, so Na­med by the Christians, because herein was Wrought by Christ, the Work of our Salvation.

This Country is Situated in [Page]the midst of the World, Be­tween the Third and Fourth Cli­mates, the longest Day being Fourteen Hours and a quarter, be­tween the Midland Sea and A­rabia, from which it is Bulwar­ked beyond Jordan with a con­tinual Ridg of Mountaines; on the East lyes Celosgoia, and A­rabia Petrea; on the South Idu­mea, the Wilderness of Pharam and Egypt; in the West a part of Phenicia, and the rest, hath the Mediterranean-Sea; and on the North are the Mountaines of Libanus, and a part of Pheni­cia: It is distant from the Equi­noctial Thirty one Degrees, exten­ding to Thirty Three; so that in length from Dan unto Bersheba, it containeth not more then Four Hundred Miles; and where [Page]it is Broadest, not Fifty.

This Famous Land was once commended above all Coun­tries under the Sun, especial­ly in regard of the Salubritie and Wholsomeness of the Ayr, being Seated under a Tempe­rate Clime, where the Win­ter is not too Cold, nor the Summer too Hot; and for Fer­tility, a Land that Floweth with Milk and Hony, Adorned with Beautified Mountaines, and de­lightful Valleys; the Rock pro­ducing Excellent Waters, and no part empty of Delight or Profit; for the Soyle yeilds abundance of all Fruits and In­crease.

This Land aboundeth in sweet Springs, and pleasant Pastures; where they feed a great many [Page]Flocks of Sheep, and herds of Cattle and Cowes which give excellent Milk as is in any Country in the World; There is also brave Hunting and Hawking; for Deere, Goats, Hares, Partridges, Quailes, and other Birds: Likewise, they have all kind of Fowle, also there are great store of Lyons, Beares and Wolves, found in Abundance.

The Land of Canaan was heretofore divided into Thirty Kingdomes, and Kings when the Israelites Conquered it; the most of the Ancient inhabitants being for their Sins by God Ex­cluded the Land, and put to the Sword by the Israelites: The Is­raelites Ruled this Land, about Foure Hundred Years, by Prin­ces and Judges, till the time of [Page] Samuel: These Princes or Judges, were not all of one Tribe, but the Best, Gravest, and Eldest, were Selected, and Chosen out of every Tribe. Afterwards the Israelites growing weary of this Government, at their Earnest re­quest, the Lord appointed them a King, and so their Government was Changed into a Monarchie, which continued many Ages; but in process of time, the Israe­lites endured many Miseries, and Afflictions, till at last they saw the utter Ruine and subvertion of their Kingdome.

What Alteration hapened to this Nation, and with how ma­ny several Wars they were Pla­gued (either because of their own stifneckedness, that they would not be Obedient to their [Page]own Prince, or brook any for­reign Government, or that for their Rebellion and Sins, the Wrath of God was oftentimes Kindled against them; or that Forreigne Princes were Ambi­tious to Incorporate this happy Land, Holy Writ and Histori­graphers Witness the same at large; for how many times were they Subdued and brought into Slavary, and Bondage, because of their Sins, and that they did not Govern and behave themselves well? for sometimes their Necks were brought under the Yoakes of their Neighbours, as the E­gyptians, Caldeans, Meads, Per­sians, Macedonians and Romans, yea, and would never cease by their Rebellions, Seditions, and Conspiracies, till they had [Page]brought their Government and Countrey to utter Destruction, by Persecuting and putting to Death, the Saints and Prophets, sent them from God; yea, and at last Crucifying the Son of God, the Lord of Glory, and the Saviour of Man-kind, by their Horrible and Murderous Hands, and Nailing him to the Cross.

And finally, wishing that his In­nocent Bloud should be on them and their Children;

Which accordingly soon after happened to the utter Desolation of their Countrey, the Romans laying wast, and levelling to the Ground, the Magnificent Struct­ures and Buildings thereof, de­stroying and burning Jerusalem, the Temple, and all the Orna­ments [Page]thereof; so that herein was verified the Prophecy of Christ while he was upon the Earth, that one Stone should not be left upon Another.

And as for the People, Di­vine Venegance did continually pursue them till the most part of them were destroyed, and the rest Dispersed through out the World, even to this Day.

For First, The Inhabitants of Cesarea slew of the Jews in one Day, about Twenty Thousand, and such as fled, were taken and Imprisoned by Florus the Leiu­tenant of Judea.

To Revenge this Slaughter, the Jews set upon the Syrians; in which Skirmish Thirteen Thou­sand of them were Slain. The People of Alexandria put Fifty [Page]Thousand of them to the Sword; They of Damascus ten Thousand of them: and Antonius a Roman Captain, slew in Ascalon Ten Thousand; and Cestius another Captain, slew Fourscore Thou­sand and Forty Persons. And now to come to the Wars man­naged here by Vespasian.

This Vespasion, in the Seige of Aphaca, slew and took Prisoners Seventeen Thousand, One Hun­dred and Thirty Persons: in Sama­ria Eleaven Thousand Six Hun­dred Persons: and in Josepata Forty two Thousand two Hun­dred Persons. In Joppa so ma­ny Killed and Drowned them­selves, that the Sea threw up again Four Thousand two Hundred Per­sons; and the rest so totally pe­rished, that there remained none [Page]to carry tydings to Jerusalem of the loss of the Town.

In the City of Tarichea, were Slain and made Captives, Forty five Thousand Persons, besides those which were given to the King Agrippa: In Gamala there perish­ed Ninety Thousand, and none were left alive but only two Wo­men. In Gascala Five Thousand Men died by the Sword. In the City of Gadara, there were Slain Thirty two Thousand two Hun­dred, besides an infinite number of such as Drowned themselves. In Jerusalem it self, there Died Eleven Hundred Thousand of them, partly by the Sword, and partly by Famine, the worse E­nemy of the two; there were found two Thousand in Privies and Sinks; and Ninety Seaven [Page]Thousand were taken prisoners, insomuch, that thirty Jews were sold for a Peny.

Now that Jerusalem was able to contain such a number of Peo­ple, is evident, in that when Cestius was Leiuetenant of Jury, the high Priest did, at his Re­quest, number the People, which came to Eat of the Paschal Lamb, and found them to be two Mil­lions, and Seven Hundred Thou­sand living Souls, all Sound and Purified.

And when Titus laid Seige to the City, it was at the Feast of the Passeover, when most of the People were there Assembled; God as it were thus Imprisoning them.

All these Massacres, besides di­vers others Omitted, and infinite [Page]Numbers which were Slain in the Feilds and Villages, which Drow­ned themselves, and were pri­vately made away, Amounting to almost two Millions of Peo­ple, happened in the compass of foure Years, beginning in the twelse of Nero, and ending in the second of Vespasian.

Yet was not the whole Nati­on Rooted out till the Year One Hundred Thirty Six. For then this Miserable People having stir­red two notable Rebellions, First under Trajan, and asterward under Adrian the Emperours, they were generally Banished their Native Countrey, and never again suf­fered to inhabit it, but as Stran­gers.

After this Desolation, the Jews were dispersed all over the World, [Page]and especially in Spain, where Adrian Commanded many of them to dwell; yet they found every where so little Favour, that having divers times been put to greivous Mulcts and Ransomes, they were at last quite t [...]rust out of Europe also.

The First Christian Prince that expelled the Jews out of his Territories, was that Heroick King, our Edward the First, who was such a sore Scowrge also to the Scots; and it is thought, di­vers Families of those Banished Jews fled then to Scotland, where they have propagated since in great Numbers; Witness the A­version this Nation hath above others to Hogs-Flesh.

Nor was this their Extermi­nation for their Religion, but for [Page]their notorious Crimes; as poi­soning of Wells, Counterfeiting of Coins, falsifying of Seals, and Crucifying of Christian Chil­dren; with other Villanies. This happened in the Year One Thou­sand Two Hundred Ninety One.

And Sixteen Years after, France followed our Example.

It was neer two Hundred Years after, that Ferdinand turn'd them out of Spain; and five years after him, Emanual of Por­tugal did the like.

But the Countreys from whence they were Last expelled, were Naples and Sicily, in the Year One Thousand Five Hundred Thirty Nine. In other parts of Chri­stendome they reside yet, in great numbers, as in Germany High and Low; Bohemia, Lituania, [Page]Poland and Russia; In Italy also they are found, but in no Coun­trey which is subject to the King of Spain.

They live very quietly at Rome under the Popes nose, and St. Mark makes no Scruple to entertain them at Venice: In sun­dry places of the Ottoman Empire they are found very numerous; so that it is thought Constanti­nople and Thessalonica only, have near upon twenty Thousand of them.

Asia is full of them, as Aleppo, Tripoly, Damascus, Rhodes, and in­deed all places of commerce and Traffique; There are numbers of themifound also in Persia, Arabia, and about Cranganor in India.

And to come to Affrick, they have their Synagogues and Lum­bards [Page]bards, in Alexandria, the Gran Cairo, as also in Fesse, in Tre­miseu, and divers places in the Kingdome of Morocco: there are about one hundred Families left in Jerusalem. But the place where they are most unmingled, is Tibe­rias, which the Turks gave to Mendez the Jew, for some signal services; thither they oftentimes bring or send the bones of their dead freinds, who have left large Legacies to be there interred from other places.

The City of Jerusalem was af­terward re-edified by Elius A­drianus, and given to the Christi­ans, from whom it was taken by Cosroes, and the Presians, in the Year Six Hundred Fifteen, and from them forcibly wrested by Hau­mar, and the Saracens, in the Year [Page]Six Hundred Thirty Seven. Next it fell into the power of Cutlu Moses, and the Turks, in the Year One Thousand Nine; under whose oppression, when it had long groa­ned, Peter the Hermit stirred up the Westerne Princes to relieve the distressed Christians, whose designs attained their wished effect, under the Banner of the Victorious Prince, Godfrey of Bullen, in the Year One Thousand Ninety Nine. This Godfrey, for his merits, was to have been invested with the Royal Wreath of Majesty, which he denied, thinking it unfit to wear a Crown of Gold, where his Saviour had Worn a Crown of Thorns; yet for the Common good sake he accepted the Title; after whom [Page]reigned these Christian Prin­ces.

Second, Baldwin. Third, Baldwin the Second. Fourth, Fulk Earl of Anjou. Fifth, Bald­win the Third. Six, Almerick. Seventh, Baldwin the Fourth. Eight, Baldwin the fifth. Ninth, Guy of Lusignan, the last King of Jerusalem; during whose time, Saladine the Sultan of Egypt, won the Kingdom, which his Successours defended against all invasions, till the Year One Thousand Five Hundred Seven­teen, when Selinus the first Em­perour of the Turks, added the Holy Land together with Egypt to his Empire: And so the whole Countrey of Palestine, with the City of Jerusalem, are under the dominion of the Turk to this [Page]day, and is inhabited by some Christians (who make a great benefit of shewing the Sepulcher of Christ) and of late Years also, by Moors, Arabians, Greeks, La­tines, Turks, Jews, nay, I may safely, and probably say, with People of all Nations.

The whole Land containeth Four Regions, Idumea, Judea, Samaria, and Gallilee, Idumea, beginneth at Mount Cassius; or as some will, at the Lake Sirbon, reaching to the Eastward of Judea; The Cheif Cities are Maresa, Rhinocorura, Rapha, Antedon, Ascalon, Azotus, and Gaza.

Maresa was the birth-place of the Prophet Micha. Neer unto this town, Judas Machabeus [Page]overthrew Gorgius, Rhinocorura, Rapha, and Atedon, are towns of no great note. Of Ascalon Sir George Sandis writeth thus in his travels, That it is a place now of no great Reckoning, more then that the Turk doth keep there a garri­son: Venerable heretofore a­mongst the heathen for the Tem­ple of Dagon, and the Birth of Si­miramis begotten of the Goddess Decreta, who enflamed with the love of a certaine youth, that Sacrificed unto her, and having by him a daughter, ashamed of her Incontinency did put him away, and Exposed the Child to the desarts, and Confounded with sorrow, threw her self into a lake re­plenished which fish, adjoyning to the City: this Decreta is said to be that Dagon the Idol of [Page]the Agrotonites mentioned in the Scripture, which signifieth the first of sorrow: who had her Temple close by the Lake, with her Image in the figure of a Fish, excepting the Face, which resembled a woman; But the Infant nourished by Doves, which brought her Milk from the pailes of the Pastures: after became the wise of Ninus, and Queen of Assyria; whereupon she was called Semi­ramis, which signifieth a dove in the Syrian tongue: in memo­rial whereof the Babylonians did bear a Dove in their En­signes, confirmed by the Pro­phesie of Jeremiah, who fore­telling of the devastation of Judea, Adviseth them to flee from the sword of the dove.

Azotes, where was a Sumptuous [Page]Temple built to the Lieutenant to Demetrius: eight miles beyond that stands Acharon or Ekron, where Belzebub was worshipped, to whom Ahaziah sent to enquire of his health.

Lastly, Gaza or Aza, one of the five Principal Cities belong­ing to the Palastines (called Phi­listines in Scripture) Gaza sig­nifieth Strong, and in the Per­sian, language a Treasury; So said to be called by Cambyses, who Invading Egypt, sent thither the riches Purchased in that Warr; it was also called Constantia by the Emperour Constantine, first famous for the acts of Sampson, who lived about the time of the Trojan Warrs, whose force and fortunes are said to have given to the Poets their invention of [Page] Hercules, who lived not long be­fore him: And it was afterwards famous for two Wounds there received by Alexander the great, and was then counted the Chief of Syria.

Also there lyeth Joppa now Jafta, a Famous Mart Town, and a good Haven; where Jonah took Ship to fly to Tar­sus, where Peter Raised Dorcas from Death to Life, and where he lying in the House of one Simon a Tanner, was in a Vi­sion, Taught the Conversion of the Gentiles. This City they report to have been built before the Flood. Here Reign­ed Cepheus the Son of Phenix, whose Daughter Andromeda was by Perseus delivered from a Sea Monster, some of whose [Page]Bones the people had wont to shew to Strangers, even till the Flourishing of the Romans: Here lyeth Gath also, the Coun­try of the huge Giant Go­liah.

Judea is the Chiefest part of Palastina, and is of the same extent now, as it was when it was the Kingdome of Judea, and entertained the two great and Puissant Tribes of Judea and Benjamin. It lyeth between the Midland-Sea and Lacus As­phaltitis, or the Dead-Sea, and betwixt Samaria and Idumea: It took this name from the Tribe of Juda, in which lyeth the once famous City Jerusa­lem.

Besides Jerusalem also, there are in this Country divers o­ther [Page]Towns and famous Cities; as Jerico, Turris Stratonis, af­terward named Cesarea; He­bron formerly, now Arbea; al­so Mambre; and Carioth; that is to say, a Town of four Men, the Birth - place of Judas Is­cariot, who betrayed our Savi­our Jesus Christ; Emaus, and divers others; and Beyond Jordan Makherus, a Town with a strong Castle: here stood also the Towns of Sodom and Gomorah, which for their Sodomy and Abomination, were utterly de­stroyed and consumed with Fire from Heaven; and lyes now buried in that Cursed Lake Asphalites; so named of the Bitumen where it Vo­miteth; called also the Dead-Sea, perhaps in that it nourish­eth [Page]no living Creature, or for his heavy Waters hardly to be moved with any Wind; so Extream Salt, that whatso­ever is thrown thereinto, not easily Sinketh: Vaspatian for a tryal, causeth divers to be Cast in bound Hand and Foot, who Floted Aloft, as if Sup­ported by some Spirit. They say, that Birds, Flying over it fall in as if Inchanted or Suf­focated with the Poyson of the Ascending Vapors. Samaria ly­eth in the Midst, between Ju­dea, and Gallilea; the Land is so called from the Metrapolis Samaria, Built by Amry King of Israel, and now called Se­basta; which Towns in it, are Sichem, afterwards Named Ne­apolis, Capernaum, Betzaida and Chorazin.

[Page] Galilea lyeth between Mount Labanus and Samaria, and is divi­ded into upper and lower Galilea; Upper Galilea bordereth upon Ty­rus, called otherwise Galilea-Gentium, or the Heathenish Ga­lilea; Lower Galilea lyeth near unto the Lake of Tyberius, and to Nazareth: In it are the Towns of Naim, Cana, Nazareth and Gadara. The Holy Land is seated between two Seas, and the Ri­ver Jordan; it hath within it many Navigable Lakes, and Meers, abounding with Fish; the River Jordan is called by the Hebrews, Jordan, and run­neth through the Midst of this Countrey, dividing it into two Parts. St. Jerom Writeth that this River Springeth out of two Fountaines, not far di­stant [Page]one from the other; the one called Jor, the other Dan, shooting out like two Horns, which meeting together, make the Great River Jordan. The Chief Mountains in the Holy Land, are Mount Hermon, lying in the East part thereof, and Mount Tabor in the West, both of them being very Great and High, so that the other Hills about them, are but Armes and Branches of them: For the Mountaines Eball, Betheron, Mispa or Maspha, and Bethel, are reckoned under Mount Her­mon, Gilboa, Gerezin, Sarona, and Mount-Carmel by the Sea side, are counted under Mount Tabor.

There are also about Jeru­salem, Mount Sion, Moriah, [Page]Mount Olivet, Mount Calvary, and others: Besides there are many Goodly Woods, and For­rests, full of all kind of Deer, and many Wild Beasts.

In this Land, especially in about and Jerusalem, there were many Stately and Magnificent Buildings, as Namely Mons Domus, and the Castle of the Jebusites, into which King Da­vid brought the Ark of the Lord, where it remained till Solomons Temple was Fini­shed. The remainders and Ru­ines of these Buildings, are yet to be seen to this Day; yea, it is said, that in the ve­ry Place, the Lord Christ Eat the Pascal Lamb with his Disciples: There are also to be seen, the Sepulchers of King [Page] David, and other Kings of Ju­da; there stood also the House of David, which yet retaineth the Name of Davids Tower. Upon Mount Moriah are yet to be seen some remainders of Mello. Above all, we must call to mind the most Excellent and Beautiful Temple of King Solomon, upon which One Hun­dred and Fifty Thousand Men Wrought Seven Years continu­ally, till it was Finished. The Glory and Magnificency there­of you may Read in the Scrip­ture. The Temple of the Se­pulcher at the first Building was highly Reverenced by the Christians of those parts, and even until this Day it is much resorted to, both by Pilgrims from all parts of the Romish [Page]Church, and also by divers Gentlemen of the Reformed Churches; partly for Curiosi­ty, and partly for Antiquity of the place. It is Farmed from the Turk, and kept by the Popes Creatures; whosoever is ad­mitted to the sight of this Se­pulcher, payeth Nine Crowns to the Turkish Officers: so that this Tribute is worth to the Grand Seignior, Eight Thousand Duccats Yearly.

And thus much briefly for the Description of the Holy Land, or Land of Promise.


Honoured Sir,

THese serve to Accompany an Account of my Jour­ney to the Holy Land, for which I might refer you to others, who have given a most exact Relation of that Pil­grimage, [Page 2]yet according to your desires, I present you with this my Description.

TUesday May 3. 1669. we set Sail from Scanderoon, with a N. E. wind on the Margaret, Tho. Middleton Commander, be­ing fourteen English Men, (of the Factory of Aleppo) in Com­pany; but being forced to re­turn three times, by contrary Winds, by May 10. we arrived at Trippoly, whose Port is guar­ded with six small Castles, near the Sea, and one great Castle upon the Land; and is defen­ded from Tempests, on the West with Islands, and on the East, with a Cape of Land; so that none but a North wind can be [Page 3]prejudicial to Ships in this Port: the Ground is stony, which forc'd the Captains to buoy up their Cables, the ships riding in six or seven Fathom Wa­ter.

The Town is about a mile from the Marine, situated upon the shelf of a Hill, and hath one good Castle for its defence; the Town is ruinate, and there were few People to be seen, at that time, it being the time of making white Silk, most of the People being in their Gardens.

May Thirteen, after three days Treatment by the Consul (for English, French and Dutch) with extraordinary Civility; about four of the clock in the after­noon, we set forward for Mount [Page 4] Lebanon, and two hours Riding from Trippoly, we pitched our Tent at the Village Coffersinue; the Inhabitants are Christians, and live in houses made of Reeds, and Covered with Bush­es; and the Rode to this Vil­lage, is very good and pleasant, passing to it, through a Forrest of Olive Trees; and in the Val­leys, are Gardens of Mulberries, with which they feed their Silk-Worms.

Friday May fourteenth, we de­parted from Coffersinue, about four of the clock in the morning, passing in a good Rode, and through Plains sowed with Wheat: about six of the Clock, we passed over several Moun­tains resembling Marble, if not [Page 5]really so; from which we had a very good Prospect of the fruit­fulness of the Valleys: between these Mountains, upon the ascent of an Hill, we came to a Foun­tain where we break-fasted; at seven of the clock we rose from the Fountain, and having pas­sed a very dangerous ragged Mountain, about nine of the Clock we came to Eden, a small Village, and extraordinary pleasantly seated, being sur­rounded with Mulberries, Wal­nuts, and other sorts of Trees; Walnut especially we found ve­ry common on this Mount: we went to the Bishops House, a most miserable ruinated Cottage, where the Bishop coming to bid us welcome, appeared more like a [Page 6]Dunghil-raker then a Bishop. We enquired whence this Village had its name, the Maronites (which generally inhabit the Mountains) say, this was the place where Adam commit­ted the sin of Eating the For­bidden Fruit; but the Bishop told us, it was in Heaven, where there were three Trees, Adam being forbidden to eat of one of them which wa the Fig-tree: but having eaten, he fell from Hea­van, and fell among the Cedars (which are some two hours ri­ding from the Bishops house), and there he began to till the Ground. But the Bishop being very Igno­rant of these things, we forbear to enquire farther. The Bishops have great respect shewed them, [Page 7]every one Kissing his Hand on their Knees bareheaded: in his House he hath a ruinate Church, with an Altar in it; and a little beyond his house, is a little Chappel, neer the head of the Rivolet that feeds his house with water, where we found many men with Frank names, which had continued there from the Year 1611.

Mid-day coming, the Bishop made what Preparation his house would afford for Dinner, killing two Kids, and a Goat, and giving us the best Wine the Mountain did afford, being a well relished Red and White Wine.

Night coming, after Sup­per, we kiss'd his Hand; and next [Page 8]morning, we being now but twelve in Company, went to take our leave of him, and made him a present of Livers, besides something to the ser­vants, as is usual for Pilgrims that take this Voyage; two of our Company waiting our re­turn at Trippoly.

Saturday May the fifteenth, about five a Clock in the mor­ning, we rose from thence, and a­bout eight of the Clock we came to the Cedars; all that remain of them, being in a very small compass: We spent some time in cutting sticks, and setting our Names on the great Trees.

At this place there came to us the Captain of a Village, cal­led Upshara, an hours riding from [Page 9]the Caedars. In our way, as we returned; he envited us to Din­ner at his Village, which we ac­cepted of, and after dinner made him a Present; This man is a Maronite, and takes Caffar or Toll of the Turks, which pass that way with their Sheep and Oxen; he hath a hundred Soul­diers under his Command, who are all Christians.

About two a clock we moun­ted, and after three hours riding, we came to a mighty deep De­scent, winding in and out, which is the way to the Patriark of the Maronites house, called Caunibone; it is a very good Convent, and lies under the Rocks, they have a Bell in the Church as in Europe, and goe [Page 10]to their Devotions Morning and Evening: After we had kissed the Patriarks hand, we deman­ded what was to be seen, and the Druggerman carried us to see St. Marene's Grot, of whom they recount this Story.

‘That a Venetian, in the time that the Franks had the Coun­trey, came with his wife and and one daughter to live there; and after some years, his Wife dying, he was resolved to goe into the Covent and live a reli­gious life, and would therefore have his Daughter to leave him; but his perswasions could not prevail with her; but ra­ther than leave her Father, she would put on mans Apparrel, and live a devoted life with [Page 11]him also; which at last (though unwilling) he assented to (she being young and handsom;) there they lived very strictly for several years; afterward her Father dyed: And the lay Brothers and Fathers going out, as usually, to Till the ground; She seldome went with them, the Chief of the Convent keeping her at home (being much taken with such a handsome young man as he thought) whereupon they be­gan to grumble, that St. Mar­rene did not go with them; so that at last, to satisfy the Fratres, he was sent out to work among them near the Village Tursa: presently after, one of the young Virgins of that Vil­lage [Page 12]proving with Child, she came to the Convent, and laid it to the charge of St. Marrena; who was thereupon presently excommunicated, and lived a Religious life in the Grot neer the Convent, for the space of 7 years; and being then again ad­mitted into the Covent, & still continuing to live a very strict Life, he at length dyed; and the Fathers coming according to their Custome, to Anoint the Body, found that he was a Woman; whereupon they began to Cross themselves, and to beg Pardon for Ex­communicating her; and have built an Altar in the Grot, and call it by the Name of St. Mar­rena; as they have also in se­veral [Page 13]Grots thereabouts, in remembrance of the Religious Relicks of those that dwelt therein; and when they carry any body to see them, they presently fall down to Pray­ers.’

About a League from the Convent, are two French-men that live a Hermits life, have­ing Bread and Wine allowed them by the Patriark: Night comming on, we went to Sup­per with the Patriark, the Bishop of Aleppo, and two o­ther Bishops, they having pro­vided what the Place affor­ded; At Supper they brought out a great Glass, which held neer two Quarts, with which the Old Man soon made him­self [Page 14]merry, it being their Cus­tome to drink freely; He telling us, that that Glass had belon­ged to the Convent more than one hundred Years, and that the Turks coming once to Ran­sack the Convent, seeing this Glass, told one of the Fratres, if he could drink off that full of pure Wine, he would save the Convent; which one of them doing, the Turks went away admiring what sort of People they were.

May sixteen, We took our leave of the Patriark, and pre­sented him with some Livers, as also to the poor Frasres, and other People that belonged to the Convent, and so took our Journey to Trippoly, having had [Page 15]a fair review of those Moun­taines, and the Countrey ad­jacent, which is over-spread with many fair Villages, and hath many fruitful Vallyes sown with Corn, and great quantity of Mulberry Gardens; it being the general imploy­ment of the Inhabitants to make Silk.

We Return to Trippoly to the Consuls House that Night, where after two dayes repose, and having been extraordinary well Treated, we took our leave of the Consul.

May, eighteen, about mid­night, we set sail for Joppa, with a good Wind; in the Morning we came in sight of Cape-Blan­co, where the wind proving [Page 16]contrary, we were forced to beat up and down for two days, before we could weather the Cape the wind coming good, we weatherd the Cape, and came in sight of Cape-Carmel, which two Capes make the Bay of Aerica, on which there is a Convent of white Friers, and there they shewd us Elishas Tomb. And three or four hours Sail fur­ther, we came in sight of Cesarea, now Ruinate, and inhabited by a Company of Savage A­rabs.

May twenty three, we Arri­ved at Joppa, which hath no harbour to defend Ships from Storms, but hath very good ground to Anchor in, about ten Fathom Water: It is a poor [Page 17]Town, and hath one Castle to defend those ships that come in close to the Shore; the cheif Trade thereof, is Pot-ashes for Soap, and a few Cottons, and Cotton-Yarn, which the Franks bring from thence.

May twenty four, We Arri­ved at Ramah, which is a plea­sant Village; the great Trade of the Inhabitants is in Fil­lado's; the People are poor, and the livelyhood of the Wo­men is to Spin that Commodity: We were Treated there at the Convent, till a Messenger was dispatched to the Convent at Jerusalem, for our Admittance to pass thither, because of some extravagant Stories that flew abroad, of the Plague raging [Page 18]in the place from whence we came: our messenger returned back that night.

May the twenty fifth, in the morning, we mounted to take our Journey for Jerusalem, and baited at St. Jeroms Church a­bout twelve of the Clock, to Eat what small provisions we had with us: and the heat of the Day being passed, we procee­ded on our Journey; and about four of the Clock in the after­noon we Arrived at Jerusalem, at Joppa Gate; where we tar­ried till the Druggerman of the Convent went to the Caddy for Licence for us to enter the City; which having obtained, and delivering up our Swords, and what other Armes we had, [Page 19]to be carried to the Convent; we entred the City on Foot, and were conducted by the Durggerman to the Latines Con­vent, with two or three Fa­thers Accompanying us; we sound them at their Devotions, and afterwards we all went in­to the Father Guardians Cham­ber, who imbraced us, and bid us welcome; We were carried to our Lodgings, and the Fa­ther Procurator came to us, and passed a Complement on us, bringing two or three bottles of the best Wine, and desiring us to call for what we wanted; this was our first Entertain­ment.

But I should have given you an Account that our Drugger­man, [Page 20] Mallinis Salley by name, who conducted us from Joppa, through the Mountains up to Jerusalem, was formerly a Rob­ber himself, and could there­fore the better carry us through the Arabs, who molest those Mountaines and live all upon Purchase; he was a Greek by Nation and Religion.

Now to our further Enter­tainment at Jerusalem; the next morning Father Tomaso, a Lay­brother, one mighty serious, and Religious in their way, came to our Chamber with Milk, Wine and Fruit, (with a Blessing in his Mouth) the sea­son being very hot: and a­bout twelve of the Clock we went to Dinner, two or three [Page 21]Lay Brothers attending at the Hall door, with a Bason and Ewer for us to wash; and then entring the Hall, the Fathers stood all on one side near one another, saying Grace in La­tin, and then singing the Lords Prayer altogether; and after­ward bowing toward the Picture of our Saviour at Supper with his Apostles, which is placed over the Guardians Head, ador­ned with Silver Crosses about it, &c.

The Guardian hath his Table alone in the middle of the Room, and two long Tables stand of each side, one for the Pilgrims, and the other for the Fathers; after they had kiss'd the ground, we all sate down, and had eve­ry [Page 22]one his alotment brought in a little dish, of which we ne­ver wanted three or four Cour­ses of several sorts of Meat: our Wine, Water, and Fruit, was set ready for us; the Wine was about a Quart, the Water something less, which was the allowance of two men, and had two Glasses belonging to it: a­bout the middle of Dinner, the Frater came, and changed our Water, that it might drink the fresher.

Dinner being ended, the Fa­ther — Guardian knocks, and the Fraters rise and kneel with their Faces toward the Picture of our Saviour with his Disciples at Supper, and mumbling some­thing to themselves, they kiss [Page 23]the ground, and then begin to take away; one taking away the Dishes, another the Knives, every one having his appoint­ment, and then give Thanks in the same manner as before Dinner; then washing at the door, they go into the Church to Prayer, for a quarter of an hour; this they do daily, rising always early, and in the Night also, to go to Mass.

At this time there were two or three Christians come from Bethlehem, whose art is to make the Figure of our Saviours Se­pulcher, or what Holy Story you please, upon your Arm; they make it of a blew colour, and it is done by the continu­all pricking of your Arm with [Page 24]Needles; they began presently to go to work on some of us, and having presented us the Patterns of abundance of Prints, every one took his Fan­cy.

The next day, May twenty seven, we all agreed to goe in­to the Temple, and about four a Clock in the afternoon we went: There are about ten or twelve Fathers that live there continually, and have their Church there: The door is sea­led with the Caddys Seal, and when any man goes in, he pays fourteen Livers; we being en­tred the Temple, the Fathers came and Saluted us, and con­ducted us to their Lodgings; where after we had been about [Page 25]an hour, they prepared to go in Procession to all the holy places, presenting us every one a Book of Holy Songs, for every place in Latin.

And so we set out, the Fa­thers being dressed in white Surplices; and the Cheif a­mong them with Cloth of Sil­ver over his Surplice, with two more dressed in the like Garb to lead him: there was a great Silver Cross carried before him, with the Picture of our Savi­our Crucified upon it, and two men going on each side of it, with Incense Pots, to persume every Holy Place, that we came to. And so we went to these places following:

1 To the Pillar to which our [Page 26]Saviour was bound when he was scourged.

2 To the Prison, wherein our Saviour was put.

3 To the place where the Soldi­ers divided our Saviours Garments.

4 The place where St. Hel­lena found our Saviours Cross.

5 The Pillar to which our Sa­viour was bound when he was Crowned with Thorns.

6 To Mount Galvary, where he was Crucified.

7 The place where our Savi­our was Nayled to the Cross.

8 To the place where he was Anointed.

9 To the Sepulcher of Christ.

10 To the place where our Saviour appeared to Mary Mag­dalen in the shape of a Gardiner.

[Page 27] 11 To the Chappel of the Virgin Mary, where our Savi­our first appeared to her after his Resurrection.

I might give you a particu­ler description of the Adorn­ment of these Places; but to be short, every one have Lamps burning at them; some are pa­ved with Marble, others are hung with Pictures; the place where our Saviour was laid down to be nailed to the Cross, is paved with Marble; the place where he was Crucified, is pa­ved with Marble also; but in the exact place where the Cross stood, the Marble is covered over with Silver, with Silver Lamps, and wax Candles con­tinually burning; and our Sa­viour [Page 28]Crucified standing on it: the Sepulcher also is covered with Mar­ble, with Silver Lamps continually burning on it; so hath the Anointing stone: you must go into the sepulcher barefoot, as also on Mount Calvary.

Here are all sorts of Christians have their Churches: The Greeks have the best, the Latins, the the Armenians, the Copty's, and the Syrians, have each of them Churches here.

The Greeks and Latines are the two powerful Religions in the Temple, and with great Sums of money, and the cre­dit they have at Stambul or Con­stantinople, they continually buy these Holy Places out of one anothers Hands; the other Parties are Poor, and are there­fore squeez'd into a small part [Page 29]of the Temple; The Latines that offered ten thousand Li­vers, for a peice of the Cross, which the Greeks bought out of their hands.

These Religious People bear little respect one to another, speaking very basely each of other.

After our Procession, we went to veiw all the places and Chur­ches again; the Greeks have a place in the middle of their Church, which they say, is the middle of the World: they have another place by the Pri­son of Christ, with two holes to put the Feet in: there is al­so a narrow Passage between two Pillars, which is in imita­tion of the straightness of the Path to Heaven, which the [Page 30] Greeks Creep through.

In the Church of the Syri­ans, is the intended Sepulcher of Joseph of Arimathea, and Ni­codemus: and near the Anoin­ting Stone, is a Tomb, where Godfrey, and Baldwin, Kings of Jerusalem, are Buried. And in the same place is the Rent of the Rock, which begins above, near the place where our Savi­our was Crucified; and in that Rent, they say Adams Head was found, when our Saviour gave up the Ghost. Thus ha­ving seen the Temple, we re­turn'd to the Convent.

May the twenty eight, we went out of the City at Da­mascus Gate, and turning on the right Hand, we came to one of the Fish-ponds, belonging to the [Page 31]old City and a quarter of a Mile further, You come to the Grot where Jeremiah Lived, when he Wrote his Lamentations; on the left Hand in the en­trance, is a Ledg in the Rock, about a Story High, where they say Jeremiah Slept; and below over against the Door, is a hole intended for his Sepulcher; and passing through a Ruinate Door, you come into the Yard, where his Well is, being a very good Spring of sweet Water; there you pay one Liver; afterwards passing along the side of a Mountain, that lies level with the City, a little beyond Je­remiahs Tomb, we came to the Sepulcher of the Kings; the entrance into the first Room, was so small and low, that we [Page 32]were forced to creep in, in which there were seven Sepul­chers cut out of the Rock: in the second Room, there were eight Sepulchers more; and in the third Room twenty six more; and many more in several o­ther Rooms: One of the Rooms hath a Dore of Stone, which is Cut out of the Rock, and shuts and opens as a Door with Hinges; this Door be­longs to the Room, wherein Jehosaphat was Buried, his Cof­fin is of Stone with a Cover to it, and is very neatly Wrote on the sides with Flowers, as se­veral of them are also in the first Room, but they know not what Kings they are; there is al­so one other Chamber into which we crept; so that there [Page 33]are in all, forty two Burying-Places under ground, to which there is but one door to enter, all adorned with Admirable Workmanship; which I being unskilled in, am unfit to ex­press in proper Terms: and so we return to the Convent, en­tering the City at the same Gate.

May the Twenty-ninth, we reposed, some of our Compa­ny being a Marking.

May Thirty, we took Horse to go for Bethlehem, and went out at the West-Gate called Joppa-Gate, and turning on the left hand, and taking the lower Path, we passed along the Road that the Virgin Ma­ry brought our Saviour, when She came to offer him at the [Page 34]Temple; and half a mile from the City is the place where the Tree Tirabintha grew, which the Virgin Mary sat under to give him Suck; but the Tree being Cut down, the place is incompassed with a Wall.

On the left hand you see Davids House, where he was when he spied Bathsheba Wash­ing her self; on the right Hand a little out of the Road, is old Simeons House and Elias House; and a quarter of a Mile fur­ther you come to a Well, where the Wise Men first saw the Star; a little further is the ground where the Reapers were at work, when Habbakuk comming to bring them Meat, the Angel took him up by the hair of the Head, and carried [Page 35]into Babylon to Daniel in the Lions Den: afterward we saw Jacobs House; and a hill like a Sugar Loaf: where the Franks remained forty Years, after they were driven out of Jeru­salem; next is a Monastery of Monks of the order of St. Tavola Paula Romana, who when they dye, are Buryed at the Convent in Bethlehem.

A Mile further is the place where the Angels appeared to the Shep­pards, and sayd, Gloria in ex­celsis, &c. when our Saviour was Born, where there hath been a Convent; but now there only remaines an Arched Vault, where we paid Money to the Arabs; who when they espy a­ny Franks going thither, Ride post before to take Possession [Page 36]of the place, and get some­thing from them; A quarter of a Mile from hence, in the way to Solomons Cisterns, is the Village of the Shep­hards, on the backpart where­of is a Well, of which they say, the Virgin Mary defired to Drink; but the Inhabitants denying to draw her any Wa­ter, it presently Overflowed for her to Drink: a little way from this Village, is Josephs House; and a little after, we came to Solomons Garden ly­ing shelving: At the bottom of them is the Road from Gran Cairo, and round the Top passes the Aqueduct, which feeds Jerusalem with Water; (from thence we saw Tekoa standing on a high Hill) the wa­ter [Page 37]comes from the Fountains which feed Solomons Cisterns; passing a Mile along by the A­queduct, we came to Solomons Cisterns, which are Three; the first had no Water in it, and might be about two hundred and fifty Yards long, and sixty Yards broad, and of a great depth; the second, it had lit­tle Water, and was something less in Compass; the third was full of Water and as big as the first: they run one into another, and are fed by the spring that feeds the City.

The Fathers say, that they were made to Swim in, they being built with steps for a Man to goe down, but they seem rather to be intended for a reserve of Water for the City [Page 38]or the Gardens, they having passage to both; neer the Gar­dens, there is an ill-contrived Castle, where a few Villains inhabit, to whom we paid one Liver per Man for leave to goe into the Grot; where the Springs are that feed the City, and the Cisterns; the Grot is large, and hath three Springs in it, and a large passage cut through the Rock, toward the Cisterns, passable by a Man, but we went not to the end of it.

We mounted our Horses to pro­ceed on our Journy, leaving the Castle on the Right Hand, and at a distance we saw St. Georges Church, where the Fathers say, the Chaines remain wherewith St. George was bound, which [Page 39]will presently cure a Mad-man if he bound therewith.

After an hour and a halfes Riding, we came neer to Beth­lehem, where passing through a narrow Lane, the Guard con­sisting of four or five Musque­tiers, received five Livers of e­very one of us, and our Drug­german that went with us, re­ceived three: and arriving at the Convent, we payd one for our entrance; and after our being welcomed by the Fa­thers, we took our repose till five of the Clock in the Evening; and then we prepared to goe in Procession to the Holy Pla­ces in the same manner as we did at the Temple in Jerusa­lem; the Places we Visited were these:

[Page 40] 1 The Place where our Sa­viour was Born.

2 The Tomb of St. Joseph to whom the Virgin Mary was espoused.

3 St. Innocents Tomb.

4 The place where St. Je­rom lived, when he translated the Bible into Latin.

5 St. Jeroms Praying place.

6 St Jeroms Tomb.

7 St Pauls Tomb.

8 St. Eustachias her Dangh­ter.

9 The Sepulcher of St. Eu­sebius, Abbot of Bethlehem.

10 We return to the Chap­pel of St Catherena, which they say was built by St. Panla.

Next is the great Church without the Convent, which hath forty eight Pillars of Mar­ble [Page 41]about three Yards long, all in one Peice.

At Evening we went to visit the place of our Saviours Birth, which formerly belonged to the Latins, till the Greeks bought it out of their Hands; so that now the Latins, when they goe their Procession, Pray at that Door by which they formerly en­tred.

The Precipior hath two Doors, one exactly over against the o­ther, which are well Lined with Carved Iron, and strengthed with Iron Spikes: We went in Bare-foot, on the Right hand in the entrance, is the place they say where our Saviour was Born, which is Lined with Marble; and in the midle of the Room there is a little place covered [Page 42]with Silver, by which they set a Dish to receive your Charity: On the left Hand is the Manger where the Virgin Mary laid our Saviour; which is Lined with Marble; and at the end of the Manger on the Right Hand, is the Picture of St. Jerom natu­rally in the Marble, which the Fathers esteem as a Miracle.

Over against this Manger, is the place where the three Wise Men stood, when they came to Worship our Saviour: and at the further end of this place in a corner, is a hole made up up with Marble, wherein they say, the Virgin Mary put the Water, when she had washed her hands: Over which a Lamp Burns continually: and there are also a great many Lamps [Page 43]burning in the other Places. Over this Precipio, in the great Church, is the Altar of Circum­cision, where our Saviour was Circumcised.

We having seen what was Rare at Bethlem, May thirty One, early in the Morning, we Rose to proceed in our Journey, in which we saw these Places following.

1 The Grot where the Vir­gin Mary hid her self, when she was Warned to Fly into E­gypt, & her Milk running out of her Brests there, made the Earth turn White; which Earth the Catholicks do very much e­steem.

2 Davids Cisterns.

3 The Grot wherein the Vir­gin Mary and Joseph lived, be­fore [Page 44]they could get a House.

4 The Tomb of Rachel, Ja­cobs Wife, which the Turks do also much esteem.

5 The Feild of Sennacharib, where the Angel of the Lord flew in one Night, One hundred eighty 5000. of the Syrians; in this place is a Village, which is called Botechelle, where the Fa­thers affirm, no Turk can live.

6 The place where the Pillars of the Convent of Ramath were built.

7 The Vinyard from whence the Spyes of the Land of Ca­naan took the Cluster of Grapes, to show the fruitfulness of the Land; there is also the Fountain, where Philip Baptized the Queen of Sheba's Eunuch.

9 The Desarts of John Bap­tist; [Page 45]and after an hours Riding, we came to John Baptists Foun­tain, where was his Chamber; and a Rock, wherein there was a place cut out like a bench for his Bed; to break off any bit of this Rock, is Worthy excommu­nication.

10 Zacharias House, where the Virgin Mary came to salute her Couzen Elizabeth; for the Angel that told her she should conceive, told her also, that her Couzen was with Child; and upon her Salu­tation, the Child leaped in the Womb: Near this House is a Fountain with two Cisterns which is called Elizabeths Fountain.

11 There is a Stone where John Baptist Preached, which the Fathers say, the Turks have en­deavoured to break in peices but could not.

[Page 46] 12 The place where John Baptist was Born, now a Stable; but formerly a Church, where the Fathers upon John Baptists day carry their Organs thither, and Adorn the Place for their Prayers.

13 The Tombs of the Mac­cabees, which we saw at a di­stance, and being ruinated, ap­pear as so many Arches.

14 We passed by a Village, where the Men are all Turks, and the Women Christians; for the People being poor, the Turks were very severe with them for their Harach; who not being able to pay all at once, turned Turks, &c.

15 We came to the Mountain Crupil, where part of the Wood whereof our Saviours Cross was [Page 47]made, was cut down, and over the place where they say the Tree stood, from which it was cut, there is a stately Church, which is in the Possession of the Greeks; the just place where the Tree grew is inlayd with Silver, by which they set a Dish for your Charity: the Flore of this Church is well Wrought with Mosaick Work, and painted with Scripture Stories; and in­stead of a Bell, they knock up­on a board, that hangs up, which sounds somewhat like a Bell.

And now we goe forward to the Convent at Jerusalem, passing by Mount Grhon, where Solomon was Anointed King; and about night we came to our Lodgings, having made two [Page 48]days journey to see the Holy Places, and Traverse the Moun­tains of Judea; we slept very well that night, but still we have more Pilgrimages.

June 1. We lay still to recover our selves of our Bethlem Jour­ney, but Father Tomasa out of his Zeal, is very importunate with us to be walking to see o­ther places, which is very Me­ritorious in the Roman Church; and had we been of their Reli­gion, it had been impossible to have mist Heaven; for we had received indulgences for all our Lives; which fancy I wish doth not deceive too many.

June the second, We began to search for the Holy places, which are these following.

1 The Immolation of Isaac [Page 49]neer the Temple, called Mount Morea, which place is inlay'd with Silver, and a dish set by for your Offering.

Secondly, Peters Prison, still made a Prison by the Turks: at the further end of which, is a hole in the Wall, where they say the Chain was fastened, with which St. Peter was Chai­ned; litle remembring, how often Jerusalem hath been destroyed, and the Stones of that Old Wall, are now probably as far under Ground, as these are a­bove.

Thirdly, The Monastery of the Knights of Malta; a very fair building, one Room where­of hath several Partitions for Beds, with a hole in the mid­dle, that if any of them are [Page 50]Sick or Fluxitive, they are layd there; to which the Water, (being Bad) and the Air un­wholesome, doth very much in­cline them.

Fourthly, Solomons Temple; which, if any Christian goe in­to, or but up the stairs, he must Turn Turk, or be burnt: The Rarity of which I shall give you an Account of, when I come to a Prospect.

Fifthly, St. Hellena's Hospi­tal, where there are seven great Caldrons, in which she used to have Provisions dressed for the Poor, where we pay one Li­ver for entrance.

Sixthly, the Judgement Gate, at which our Saviour was brought in: and some distance from the Gate, is the place [Page 51]where he was Condemned.

Seventhly, The Dolorous Way, which is the way that Christ went, when he went to be Crucified; and in the way is the House of St. Veronica, who gave our Saviour a Napkin to wipe his Face, as he passed by: there is also Lazarus's House, and the House of the Rich Glutton; and the place where our Saviour Fainted as they say, and Simon took up the Cross; and neer that, is the Church, where the Virgin Mary stood to see him pass by, and Swounding with Grief; now called the Virgin Maries Church.

Eightly, Herods Palace, now ruinated, and is now the Bas­sha's Seraglio; in one Room [Page 52]is the place where they Clothed our Saviour with Purple.

Ninethly, Pilates House, where they shew the place, where our Saviour was Crowned with Thorns, and the Pillar to which he was bound, which was brought from thence, and put into the Temple: next, we enter the Hall, where Pi­late Washed his Hands, & declared himself Innocent of our Saviours Blood: out of which place we had a fair Prospect of Solomons Temple; which is built within the middle of a spacious Yard very well Paved; there are several Arches, good Walks, and Buildings about it: the Temple is Wrought with Mosaick Work, and by the Turks re­port, is very Rich within, it being one of their Mosques; and though they have a half [Page 53]Moon upon all their Temples or Mosques, yet this only hath a Cross through the middle: The Fathers reporting it would not stand till the Cross was made.

Tenthly, The place where Christ was Scourged, which is now a Shop for Linnen Cloth; but the Pillar to which our Saviour was bound, is brought from thence, and put into the Temple.

Eleventhly, The House of Annas, where our Saviour be­ing carried along with great Violence down a steep place, to prevent falling, he layd hold of the corner of a Wall, where there is a place, in one of the Stones, fit for a Mans Hand, which the Fathers ac­count [Page 54]a great Miracle.

Twelfthly, Simon the Phari­sees House, where there is a Stone, with the print of a Foot, which they say our Sa­viour made, when he stood to pardon Mary Magdalen her Sins: The Fathers say, the Turks have endeavoured several times to remove this Stone, but still it comes into the same place again.

Thirteenth, The House of Joakim, and Anna: a fair high Building; and down in an un­der Room, cut out of the Rock, is the place where they say, The Virgin Mary was Born.

Fourteenth, The Pool of Be­thesda, where the Sick lay to be healed; the Angel com­ming [Page 55]Yearly to Trouble the Water, and he that entred in first, was healed; but it is now dry, and half filled with Earth.

Fifteenth, St. Stephens Gate, and a little out of the City, is the place where Stephen was Stoned: and the Fathers would have you to fancy, that there is the print of his Hands, Face, and Knees, when he fell down.

Sixteenth, The Vally of Je­hosophat, which is at the bot­tom of the Hill, between the the Mountain on which Jeru­salem stands, and Mount Oli­vet.

Seventeenth, The Place where the Virgin Mary is Bu­ried; where going down a great many stone steps, you come [Page 56]into a large Vault, where all the Christians have their Altars a­part, all being of several Opi­nions, and the Turks, and Chri­stians, do both burn Lamps, over her Grave; here we pay One Liver for entrance; and Forty eight Stone Steps up­ward, is Josephs Tomb; and over against that, are the Tombs of Joakim and An­na.

Eighteenth, The place where Christ sweat Bloud, and the Angel appeared to Comfort him, is neer the bottom of Mount Olivet.

Nineteenth, The Place where our Saviour Prayed, that This Cup might pass from him; and neer that place, is the Rock on which his Disciples sate, [Page 57]when he went to Prayer, be­tween which two places he was taken, it is now bordering on the Garden of Gethsemena, but might formerly have been part of the Garden, and is on the Ascent of the Mount of Olivet; where the Multitude going to Carry our Saviour away, Peter smote off Malcus his Ear, in in the way to the City.

Twentyeth, The Place where they say the Virgin Mary Pray­ed for St. Stephen, while he was Stoning.

Twenty first, The place where Christ Wept over Jerusalem; it is almost at the Top of Mount Olivet.

Twenty second, The Place our Saviour Ascended into Hea­ven, having as they say, left [Page 58]the Print of his Foot on a Stone: it hath now a Chap­pel built over it, with four­teen Marble Pillars round it, it is at the top of Mount Olivet; and a little way off, is the Place where the Men of Gallilee stood, when the Angel asked them, Why stand ye Gazing up?

Twenty third, The Place is shewed us, where the Angel told the Virgin, she should be Raysed in three Days.

Twenty fourth, Pelagius his Grot; from whence we saw Bethpage, where the Asses Colt was tied.

Twenty fifth, The Tree un­der which our Saviour stood, when he Preached the Judg­ment Sermon.

[Page 59] Twenty sixth, The place where he made the Lords Prayer.

Twenty seventh, The Place where the Apostles made the Creed; being a Grot of twelve Arches.

Twenty Eight, The Sepul­chers of the Prophets, being Forty seven in Number, cut out of the Rock; and entring in at a Door, we came into a large Grot, where there were several places to cut out, fit to contain a Coffin: here we paid one Liver.

Twenty Nineth, The Tree where Judas Hanged him­self.

The Thirtyeth, The Sepul­cher which Jehosophat intended for himself; but being a King, he was buried in the Sepulcher, [...] the Kings.

[Page 60] Thirty One, Absoloms Pillar or Sepulcher, which is cut out of the Rock, and about the big­ness of a small Chamber, with Pillars cut out round about; so that it stands like a Room built for some single Person: it is of a good Height, and hath some Carving about it.

Thirty Two, They say hereby is the Print of Christs Feet; for when he was Car­ried to Jerusalem, he stopped at the Brook Cedron, and desired to Drink: This Brook is now but a small Channel, and had no Water in it, when we were there; but in the Winter time, the Water comes down from the Hills, and makes a small Current.

Thirty Three, Next is the [Page 61]Place where Saint James hid himself three Days, and three Nights; it is a place cut out of the Rock, which must needs have been made for a dwelling place; neer this is the Sepulcher of Zacharias the Son of Barachias, cut out of the Rock.

Thirty four, On the side of the Hill, on which Solomon Worshipped Molock, are Cham­bers cut out of the Rock, which they say was the place, where­in the Three Hundred Wives, and One Thousand Concu­bines of Solomon were kept.

Thirty Five, The Fountain of the Virgin Mary, which you goe down to by Stone Steps; the Water whereof is so Sweet, that were a Man blindfolded, [Page 62]he could not think it to be a­ny thing but Milk and Wa­ter.

Thirty Six, The Place where the Prophet Isaiah was Sawn Asunder: his Sepulcher is un­der a Rock neer the same Place.

Thirty Seven, The Fountain of Siloa, by which is a Cistern, wherein formerly the Pilgrims used to Wash, but it is now Ruined, and filled with Stones and Mud, yet it is Water still accounted good for the Eye-Sight; and near this is Golgo­tha.

Thirty Eight, And near this Place, in a bottom, is a Well, wherein they say Nehemiah hid the Holy Fire, when the Chil­dren of Jsrael were carried [Page 63]Captive; and when they re­turned Forty Years after, they say they found the same Fire in the Well.

Thirty Nine, Ascending up the Mount, we came to the Tombs of Annas and Cai­phas.

Forty, And near it is the Place where the Apostles hid themselves; where entring a streight passage, we came into a Room under Ground, out of which there goe several holes, wherein they say, the Apostles Lay.

Forty One, We then came to Aceldama, a Grot, which is now held by the Armenians for a Burying Place: it is said, the Earth thereof, will consume the Body of a Man, in Forty [Page 64]Eight Hours: there are seve­ral Vents on the Top to let out the smell: We went down under a Rock, to a place where we could look into it, and we there saw the form of a Man entire, they being only layd in, but not Covered with Earth.

Forty Second, We came to the Fountain of Bersheba, which is at the bottom of Mount Sion, in which there is now but little Water, we being forced to tarry a quarter of an hour for one Draught.

Having now seen all that was Remarkable in these Parts, we made toward the Convent, having got a great deal of Cre­dit with Father Tomasa; that we should be such Zealous Pil­grims, [Page 65]as to walk from five a Clock in the Morning till Mid­day; but he to encourage us, would still be formost; and told us always, there was some place more worth our seeing, then any we had seen before: and though he was an old man, and the Weather hot, yet at the going up of a Hill, he would run, that he might be foremost: and gave us all the good Words that could be, to encourage us Protestants, who never hoped or thought, that we Merited any thing by it: but at length we came to the Convent again, and being well weary, every one retired to his Lodings.

June Third, we repose at the Convent; after Dinner, one [Page 66]the Fathers came and told us, that the Father Guardian would wash our Feet; which Honour we accounted too great for us, and desired to be excused▪ but we were forced to comply with the Orders of the Convent; The Bason, which was as big as a Tub, was placed by a Chair; there were Rose-Leaves and Herbs put into the Wa­ter; the Fathers all stood in a Row, Singing Godly Hymns; we sat down, and the Father Guardian wrapt a Towel about our Knees, to keep our Cloths from Water; then they began to scrub our Leggs and Feet, (being Masters of their Art) there were two Fratres atten­ding, one on one Leg, and ano­ther on the other; having first [Page 67]dryed the left Foot, the Frater kisses it, and puts on our Slip­per; then he dryes the Right Foot, and wraps the Towel a­bout the Sole of the Foot, and setting it on his Knee, and co­vers the Toes with his Hand, and then come all the Fratres, and Kisses it; this being done, he gives us a little Candle, in taking of which, we kiss his Hand, and so rise and stand by, till all our Company are Washed in like manner. Then went we in Procession, round their Chappel, they saying se­veral Prayers, at their three Altars, and so we return to our Chambers.

June the Fourth, Af­ter Dinner, we went into the Kitchen, where we found [Page 68]all the Fathers, with Napkins before them, washing the Dish­es, every one taking his part, even to the Father Guardian himself; some were cleaning some handing away; but all the while, with one Consent, they say some Prayer; it seeming to be their endeavour, that all that they do, may be done to the Glory of God; this being done, they goe all to the Chap­pel to Prayers, and you shall never see the Chappel, with­out some of them at Prayers; yea, and two or three times in the Night they Rise to Pray­ers.

On Whitsunday, the Chap­pel was Adorned something Extraordinarily, and there was a very Rich Canopy, set on [Page 69]the Right Hand of the high Altar, for the Father Guardian to sit under; when the Pray­ers began, the Father Guardi­an came into the Chappel, and sate under this Canopy: There were three or foure Fathers Drest in Cloth of Silver, much after the manner of a He­rald; two whereof attend on each side of the Guardian, and two stand over against him.

Then they began to dress the Father Guardian in his Festi­val Robes, and having read two or three Lines, they put a peice of Linnen laced about this Neck, and then his Surplice, Reading still between every Robe that was put on. Then they cover him with a Garment of Rich Sattin, and Cloth of Silver; the two [Page 70]that stand over against him, bowing at some words. His body being thus drest, the two Fathers, put a Myter upon his head, doing it with all the Re­spect Imaginable; after a short Prayer, they take the Father-Guardian by the hand, and lead him to the Altar, he stand­ing in the middle of the four Fathers, adorned as aforesaid; the other Fathers have their Surplices on, and the Organs go; then making a short Pra­yer at the Altar, they lead the Gardian to his place again; and after a little reading, they take off his Myter, and he sits bare till the Prayer be done: then they put on another Myter; the first was of Cloth of Silver, and the second was of Cloth of [Page 71]Gold, set full of Rubies, and Diamonds, and other sorts of Stones; they afterward took off that also, and put on a third Myter, which was of Cloth of Gold, something differing in shape, from the others.

The Guardian being led, to and from the Altar, a great while, at length, when they came to read that place, where the Holy Ghost came down upon the Apostles, assembled together, there was a Father upon the Terrass, appointed to throw down a white Pidgeon drest up with Ribbons, in imitation of the Holy Ghost, but he met with some difficulty; for the window was so fast shut that he could not open it a great while, so that we had like to [Page 72]have gone away without their Holy Ghost: but this difficulty being overcome, he made the Dove descend among us; which being done, after a Prayer, they began to undress the Fa­ther Guardian again, reading all the while his Robes were taking off; and so that days service was done.

Now we began to think of going to the Dead Seas, and the River Jordan, we therefore de­manded what our expence would be, the Fathers say, twen­ty five Livers, but we all agreed not to give above twenty; The Fathers sent our resolution to the Bassa, and he return'd us this answer, That if we would goe, we should pay twenty two Livers; and if we would not, [Page 73]he would have ten Livers a man; we thinking our selves under his command, and not willing to embroyl the Convent, for they are to bare all damages, as they have done for several; but thanks be to God, none hapned in our time.

We all resolved to goe, except Mr. T. H. and one Englishman more, and a Dutchman, not thinking the Bashaw had been in earnest; but because they went not, they were forced to pay ten Livers for nothing; we then came to Bethany, now a small Village, where entring into a Grot under ground, we saw a Tomb, from whence they say our Saviour raysed Laza­rus, after he had been dead so many dayes; here we had the [Page 74] Bashaws guard to wait upon us, for fear of the Arabs, who are on the other side Jordan in the land of Moab; who doe often make incursions, and have sharp disputes, at the end of the Lance, with those that live on this side, in the land of Pro­mise; The Bashaw pretended, that he must send fifty men with us, but it proved but fourteen or sixteen,

Having reposed a little on the ground, about nine of the clock at night, we mounted our Horses, and passing through the turning and winding of the Mountains, we came in the Morning to the foot of the Qua­rantine Mountain, where we dismounted; and making the cold earth our bed, we slept [Page 75]two or three hours, having our horses made fast to our hands, and the Sun rising, we rose also, and walked to Elisha's Fountain, a stones throw off; and before the Sun was too hot, we Mounted our Horses at the foot of the Mountain, and so began to ascend, it being very steep; having ascended a great height, we came to the place where they say, our Saviour slept, when he Fasted Forty days; and from that the Moun­tain received its name; this place is neer the height of the Mountaine, but the passage to the top, is Known only to the Arabs; here is a Church over this place, where some Fathers have lived, till they were Mur­dered by the Arabs.

[Page 76] Below this place are several Cisterns of water, and several Frontispeices of Chappels, but the passage to them is cut off; as we were going up, the thoughts of the danger of de­scending, enters into our heads, and the Emperour of Germanies Druggerman for these Coun­trey Languages, being extra­ordinary fearful, got two Turks to conduct him down, and so we having all had a safe descent, we rode cheerfully back to Elisha's Fountain, which was formerly bitter; but he throwing in a handful of salt, the waters be­came sweet.

Here we lay till Four a clock, and the heat of the Sun being over, we made for Jericho, where we arrived about five, [Page 77]where there are now, only a few poor Cottages: we pitched by Zacheus Tree, the Inhabi­tants are for the most part Ara­bians, and some few Greeks: here the Captain of the Village came to welcome our Bashaw and his people; he was moun­ted upon a Mare, valued at a Thousand Livers, Mares be­ing only in esteem among them; here we reposed under a rotten hedg, till about four of the Clock next mourning; ha­ing little pleasure in our com­panions, the Gnats, and other stinging creatures.

We proceed for the River Jordan, where we arrived by day-light, and tarried about an hour to swim in the River; the stream is strong, and rapid; [Page 78]and the force of a man, can little more then resist it; it runs in­to the Dead Sea.

Our Guard were very hasty for us to be gone, being afraid their Enemies should find them; therefore we all made ready, and set forward for the Dead Sea; about two hours after in our way to the Sea, we passed through a most cursed barren place, not having so much as a green herb or grass, and the face of the earth was covered with Salt, and though it was dry, yet our Horses sunk up to the Knees.

We come now to the Dead Sea, being about Seventy or Eighty Miles in Breadth, and about Eighteen Over: There is no place Visible from whence [Page 79]the Water, which comes in­to it, runs out again, except it be under the earth; neither doth it seem to Increase with the water of the River Jordan, and of sevaral other waters that run into it: It was once a fruit­full Valley, and compared for delight, unto Paradise, and was called Pentapolis, of her five Cities, and was afterward de­stroyed with fire from Heaven, and turned into this silthy Lake, and barren desolation which doth encompass it: & to try the virtue, that is reported to be in the water, wherein they say, a man cannot sink; some of our Company went into the Sea, and found it impossible to get their bodies under water, yea could hardly keep their legs [Page 80]under; The water is sulphury, and the extremity of the salt­ness is not to be exprest; when they came out of the water, there was a perfect Oyl upon their bodies.

Our Eyes being satisfied with Curiosities, and Rarities, we make what hast we can, back to Jerusalem: but I should have given you an Account, that the Ruins of one of the Cities, that were destoryed for Sodomy, now lyes good part out of the water, and is supposed to be Zeboim.

Now the Sun gets strenght, and grows extraordinary hot, and by reflection on the ground, makes the heat so violent, that our faces looked as if the skin were flead off, by riding [Page 81]in the Sun, from Morning till four of the Clock in the after­noon; but the Fathers being accustomed, to meet with ten­der-faced Travellers, soon pro­vided something to mitigate our pain, which was much in­creased, by reason of the salt­ness of the water of the Dead Sea: this night we took little pleasure in eating, but more in sleeping, having had but little in this Voyage.

Having now visited all the places in the Holy Land, which Pilgrims usually do, we pre­pare our selves for our return. June Ninth, we being resol­ved to set forward in our Return; In the Morning the Father Guardian came to us, and gave us his blessing, and [Page 82]sprinkled us with Holy Water, desiring us to excuse our Bad Treatment, and that if at any time we had been dis­tasted, we would pass it over; but we Knew it was but a com­plement, for we had the Civilest Entertainment imaginable, and very far from disgusting us; for there were none of them, but were not only ready to be our servants, but our Slaves, yea, my honest name-sake, Fa­ther Tomaso, never ceased from Morning to Night, from bringing us either Victuals or Drink, or asking us whether we wanted any thing; and now for this his fourteen days ser­vice, we were no ways capa­ble to recompence him; for they would take no money, [Page 83]but for our Victuals, and for some other small services; we therefore presented to the Con­vent, thirty Livers apeice, and some that had servants present­ed more. The Father Procurator receiving it, they entred all our names in a Book, and the sums we gave; the Book where the names only were written, we had a view of, and took a Coppy, of all the Englishmens names that were in it, from the year One Thousand Five Hundred Sixty One, to this day, being One Hundred Fifty Eight in number.

Now taking our leaves of the Fathers, they all shewed a great deal of affection to us, weeping, and expressing their desires, to enjoy our company [Page 84]longer; and our desires were as much to be nearer home, that we might have an Account of our Freinds.

June the Fourth we departed, our Muletters having provided us Horses; and our intentions were to take Emaus in our way, but night drawing on, we made St. Jeroms Church our sleep­ing place; there were formerly Fathers lived in it, but the Arabs came upon them in the night, and cut all their throats; The Church is very well built, and hath been adorned with Pictures upon the wall, of which some remain to this day.

About too hours riding from Jerusalem, we passed over the brook, out of which they say, [Page 85] David gathered the pebble stones, wherewith he slew Go­liah.

June Fifth, we arrived at the Convent in Ramath, about ten of the Clock in the Morning; where we tarried till about mid­night, at which time there was a Ship to depart, and some of us intended to embarque; the rest of us took a little boat, about the bigness of a Gravesend Barge; we put our provisions of Bread and Wine aboard, and so we put to Sea, keep­ing always neer the shore, for fear of a storm.

After three days sayl, we ar­rived at Aerica, formerly called Ptolemais, we always coming to Anchor at night; this place is famous for nothing but the ruins, [Page 86]the Road being so bad, that all the Art Captains have, can but keep their Cables toge­ther.

The Commodities in this place, are only Cottons, Pot-ashes, and fome Filletto's.

Two days after we arrived at Tripoly, where we made bold, at our old House; the Consul receives us very gladly, and our design was, to depart next day, but the Plague still raging at Aleppo, the Consul forced us to stay with him Twelve or Fourteen days; all which time we were treated like Princes, and then by his leave, we imbarqued on a Dutch Ship for Scanderoon; the rest of our Company (whom we left at Aerica to goe to see the [Page 87]of Gallilee) being arrived.

June Twenty Six, we arrived at Scanderoon, where some were dead, and others dying, and one flying from another.

We tarried upon the Mount, and aboard the Ship for some time: and July 2d we arrived at Aleppo, where there dyed at that time, Seventy or Eighty of a day of the Plague.

And thus ended our Jour­ney.


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A Map of the HOLY LAND with the places adjacent

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