The gentleman's recreation in four parts, viz. hunting, hawking, fowling, fishing : wherein these generous exercises are largely treated of, and the terms of art for hunting and hawking more amply enlarged than heretofore : whereto is prefixt a large sculpture, giving easie directions for blowing the horn, and other sculptures inserted proper to each recreation : with an abstract at the end of each subject of such laws as relate to the same.

The gentleman's recreation in four parts, viz. hunting, hawking, fowling, fishing : wherein these generous exercises are largely treated of, and the terms of art for hunting and hawking more amply enlarged than heretofore : whereto is prefixt a large sculpture, giving easie directions for blowing the horn, and other sculptures inserted proper to each recreation : with an abstract at the end of each subject of such laws as relate to the same.

Table of contents

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Title page

To the Right Honourable JAMES Lord NORREYES BARON of RICOT, His Majesties Lord-Lieutenant OF OXFORD-SHIRE.

1

Title page

OF HUNTING. The Introduction.

HUNTERS TERMS.

Which are Beasts of Forest, or Venery, or Venary, Chase, and Warren.

The names of the Beasts of Chase according to their Ages.

The Seasons of Beasts.

Terms to be used for Beasts of Venery and Chase, as they are in Company one with the other.

Terms for their Lodging.

Terms for their Dislodging.

Terms for their Noise at Rutting time.

Terms for Copulation.

Terms for the Footing and Treading of all Beasts of Venery and Chase.

Terms of the Tail.

Terms for their Ordure.

Terms for the Attire of Deer.

Terms for Flaying, Stripping, and Casing of all manner of CHASES.

Proper Terms for the Noises of Hounds.

Different Terms for Hounds and Grey-hounds.

Some other Terms and Descriptions relating more particularly to Forest and Forest-Laws.

Of DOGS in general.

Of Dogs for Hunting. Of the Hound Rache and SLUTH-HOUND, so called in Scotland, and by the Germans SCHLATHUND.

Of the BLOOD-HOUND.

Of the GAZE-HOUND.

Of the GREY-HOUND.

Sic Canis illa suos taciturna supervenit hostes.

Of the HARRIER and TERRIER.

Of LEVINER or LYEMMER.

Of the TUMBLER.

Of the SPANIEL.

Of the WHITE-HOUND.

Of FALLOW-HOUNDS.

Of the DUN-HOUND.

The marks of a good and fair Hound.

Of the Election of a Dog and Bitch for good Whelps.

How to enter young Hounds to Hunt the Hart; and what Quarries and Rewards you shall give them.

Of COURSING with Grey-Hounds.

The Laws of the Leash or Coursing.

Of the Stiles of Hunting different from the English both Antique and Forrein.

Of Hart-Hunting.

The nature of a Hart.

Of the Rut of Harts.

The time of Harts Mewing, or Casting the Head.

Of the Coats and Colour of Harts.

Of the Heads and Branches of Hearts, and their diversities.

How to know an old Hart by the Slot, Entries, Abatures and Foils, Fewmets, Gate and Walks, Fraying-Stocks, Head and Branches.

The Names and diversities of Heads, according to Hunting-Terms.

How to seek a Hart in his Haunts or Feeding-places according to the seasons of the year.

In what manner the Huntsman shall go drawing in the Springs.

The directions for Harbouring a Stag are these:

How to find a Hart lost the night before.

How to find a Hart in high Woods.

How to Unharbour a Hart, and cast off the Hounds.

What subtilties are used in Hunting a Hart at force.

How to kill a Hart at Bay.

Directions at the Death of Buck or Hart.

Buck-Hunting.

Roe-Hunting.

Rain-Deer-Hunting.

Of the Nature and Properties of a Hare.

Hare-Hunting.

Of the Craft and Subtlety of an Hare.

How to Enter Hounds to the Hare.

What time of the year is best for Hare-Hunting: How to find her, start her, and chase her.

Of Parks and Warrens.

Of Coney-Catching.

Of the Ferret.

Of Fox-Hunting.

Of Fox-Hunting above ground.

Of Badger-Hunting.

What Instruments are to be used in digging, and how to dig for Badger or Fox.

Of the Otter.

Of the Squirrel.

Of the Martern and Wild-Cat.

A short Account of some particular Beasts that are not Hunted in England, but in Forrain Countries.

The Nature and Properties of a Wolf, and the manner of its Hunting.

Wild-Goat-Hunting.

Hunting of the Wild-Boar.

Terms to be used in Boar-Hunting.

Boar-Hunting with Hounds at Force.

Of the Nature and Properties of a Bear, and after what manner Hunted.

Of the Beaver.

Of the Elk.

Dogs Diseases Remedied, and their Hurts Healed, according to the best Prescriptions of Ancient and Modern Huntsmen.

Of a Five-fold Madness in a Dog: the Symptoms of the Maladies, and their CVRE.

Of the Dumb Madness.

Of the Falling Madness.

Of the Lank Madness.

Of the Sleeping Madness.

Of the Rhcumatick or Slavering Madness.

Concerning the Madness of Dogs, and their Venomous Bitings.

A Remedy against the common Mange.

A brief Discourse of the Cure of Maladies belonging to Spaniels, with other accidents happening.

Cure of the Formica.

For Swelling in the Throat.

Of Worms breeding in the Hurts and Mangy parts of a Spaniel.

To help a Spaniel that hath lost his sense of Smelling.

The benefit of cutting off the tip of a Spaniel's Tail or Stern.

An Abstract of such Penal LAWS As relate to HUNTERS and HUNTING.

A further Abstract of some Penal LAWS as concern FORESTS, CHASES, &c.

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Title page

OF HAWKING. The Introduction.

Terms of Art in Faulconry, as they were used by Ancient Faulconers, and are now by Modern Practitioners, with their Explanations.

The Names and Natures of Hawks in general: and first of the Haggard-Faulcon.

Rules for ordering a Haggard-faulcon in the Luring: with the Causes and Remedies of Carrying, and other ill qualities.

How to know the Nature and Disposition of several HAWKS, and what must be observed from thence.

Of the Faulcon.

Of the Manning, Luring, Flights and Mewing of a Faulcon, with other things properly belonging to an Ostrager.

Of Bathing a Faulcon lately reclaimed; how to make her Flying, and to hate the Check.

How to enseam a Faulcon with her Castings and Scowrings.

General Instructions for an Ostrager or Faulconer.

Of the Rammage-faulcon.

How to Hood a Hawk.

How to make a Hawk know your Voice, and her own Feeding.

How to make your Hawk bold and venturous.

How to make a Hawk know the Lure.

How to make a Hawk flying.

A Flight for a Haggard.

How to make a Soar-faulcon or Haggard kill her Game at the very first.

Remedy for a Hawk's taking Stand in a Tree.

How to help a Hawk froward and coy through pride of Grease.

To make a Hawk hold in her Head, and not mind Check.

How to continue and keep a Hawk in her high-flying.

A Flight for the Hern.

Of the HAGGARD-FAULCON, why so called; her good Shape and Properties: And what difference there is between a Haggard and a Faulcon-gentle.

Of the BARBARY-FAULCON.

Of the GERFAULCON.

Of the SAKER.

Of the LANNER, LANNERET, and TUNISIAN.

Of the MERLIN.

Of the Mewing of Merlins, Faulcons, Gerfaulcons, and Mylions at Stock or at Large: and which is the best way of Mewing.

Of the HOBBY.

Of the GOSHAWK.

How to make the Soar or Haggard Goshawk.

How to make a Goshawk fly to the Partridge.

How to help a Goshawk that turneth Tail to Tail, and giveth over her Game.

How to make a Goshawk fly quickly.

How to fly a Goshawk to the River.

An excellent way to preserve a Goshawk in the time of her flying, especially in hot weather.

How to fly the Wild-goose or Crane with the Goshawk.

How to mew a Goshawk, and draw her out of the Mew, and make her Flying.

Some general Observations for an Ostrager or Falconer in Keeping and Reclaiming a GOSHAWK.

Of the SPARROW-HAWK.

How to make a Sparrow-hawk, whether Eyess, Brancher, Soar, Mew'd, or Haggard.

Of the Brancher, Sodr, Mew'd, and Haggard Sparrow-hawk.

How to mew Sparrow-hawks.

The Duty of a Faulconer; with necessary Rules and Observations for him to follow.

Of Diseases and dangerous Accidents incident to HAWKS, and their several Cures.

Of Castings, and Mewtings, either good or bad according to their several Complexions and Smells.

Of the Cataract.

Of the Pantas or Asthma.

Of Worms.

Of the Filanders.

Another approved Medicine for Filanders or Worms in Hawks.

Of Hawks Lice.

A safe and easie way to kill Lice in Hawks.

How to keep and maintain all manner of Hawks in health, good plight, and liking.

Of the Formica.

Of the Frownce.

To cure the dry Frownce.

Of the Pip.

How to remedy that Hawk which Endeweth not, nor Putteth over as she should do.

How to make a Hawk feed eagerly that hath lost her Appetite, without bringing her low.

How to raise a Hawk that is low and poor.

How to remedy a Hawk that is slothful, and is averse to flying.

Of Swoln Feet in a Hawk.

How to scour Hawks before you cast them into the Mew.

An Abstract Of such STATUTE-LAWS As concern HAWKING.

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Title page

OF FOWLING: OR, The compleat Art and Secrets of Fowling, either by Water or by Land, according to ancient and modern Experience.

Of the Haunts of Fowl.

The readiest way of taking great Fowl with NETS.

How to take small Water-fowl with Nets.

How to take all manner of small Birds with Bird-Lime.

How to take Great Fowl with LIME-TWIGS.

Of the great and lesser SPRINGES.

Of the FOWLING-PIECE and the STALKING-HORSE.

How to take all manner of Land fowl by day or night.

Of BAT-FOWLING.

Of the DAY-NET, and how to take Birds therewith.

Of taking small Birds which use Hedges and Bushes with Lime-twigs.

How to make the best sort of Bird-lime, and how to use it.

The best and most Experienced way of making Water. Bird-lime.

In what manner a man may take Snipes with this Bird-lime:

The manner of taking Felfares by Water-Bird-lime.

How to take Pigeons with Lime-twigs.

How to take Mag-pies, Crows, and Gleads with Lime-twigs.

How to take Rooks when they pull up the Corn by the Roots.

How to take Birds with BAITS, either Land or Water-fowl.

How to recover Fowl thus entranced.

A most excellent and approved way how to take the HERN.

How to take PHEASANTS several ways.

The fashion of Pheasant-Nets.

Of Driving of Pheasant-powts.

Of taking Pheasants with a Lime-bush.

The Seasons for the use of Nets or Lime.

How to take PARTRIDGES several ways, either by Net, Engine, Driving, or Setting.

Of taking Partridges with Nets.

How to take Partridges with Bird-lime.

How to drive Partridges.

How to take Partridges with a Setting-dog.

How to take RAILS, QUAILS, MOREPOOTS, &c.

How to elect and train a SETTING-DOG from a Whelp till he come to perfection.

How to train a WATER-DOG, and the use thereof.

How to take, preserve, and keep all sorts of Singing-birds that are commonly known in England. Giving also an account of their Nature, Breeding, Feeding, Diseases of the same, with their Remedies.

Of the NIGHTINGAL.

How to make a Net-trap for Nightingales.

Of the CANARY-BIRD.

Of the BLACK-BIRD.

Of the THROSTLE.

Of the ROBIN-RED-BREAST.

Of the WREN.

Of the WOOD-LARK.

Of the SKIE-LARK: The several ways to take them; and when taken, how to order them.

Of the LINNET.

Of the GOLD-FINCH, or CHRISTMAS-FOOL, so called in Norfolk.

Of the TIT-LARK.

Of the CHAF-FINCH.

Of the STARLING.

Of the RED-START.

Of the BULL-FINCH.

Of the GREEN-FINCH.

Of the HEDGE-SPARROW.

An Abstract Of such STATUTE-LAWS As concern FOWLING.

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Title page

OF FISHING. The Introduction.

A short Encomium, or somewhat in Praise of Fisher-men and Fishing.

How to Improve Fish-ponds, and the Fish therein contained.

How to make Carps grow to an extraordinary bigness in a Pond.

General Observations to be understood by all such who desire to attain to the compleat and perfect Art of Angling.

Astrological Elections for Angling in general.

What provision is to be made for Angling-Tools.

How to make a Line after the best manner.

Of the Hook, Flote, and other things worth the Observation.

Of Flies Natural and Artificial, and how to use them.

Of Ground Angling.

Of Night-Angling.

What times are seasonable, and what unseasonable to Angle in.

Of the BARBEL.

Of the BREAM.

Of the BLEAK.

Of the BULL-HEAD, or MILLER'S-THUMB.

Of the CHEVIN.

Of the CHAR.

Of the CHUB.

Of the CARP.

Of the DACE and DARE.

Of the EEL.

Of the FLOUNDER.

Of the GRAILING.

Of the GUDGEON.

Of the GUINIAD.

Of the LOACH.

Of the MINNOW.

Of the POPE, or RUFF.

Of the PIKE.

Of the PEARCH.

Of the RUD.

Of the ROACH.

Of the STICKLEBAG.

Of the SALMON.

Of the TENCH.

Of the TORCOTH.

Of the TROUT.

Of the UMBER.

Experimental Observations and useful Directions for the right use of the Angle; and is a true and brief Epitome of the whole Art and Mystery of the Fishing Recreation.

An Angling SONG.

An Abstract of such Penal STATUTES As Relate to FISHING.

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THE TABLE FOR HUNTING: Being the First PART.

The Table for HAWKING: Being the Second PART.

The Table for FOWLING: Being the Third PART.

The Table for FISHING: Being the Fourth and last PART.

The Table for the HUNTING-HORSE, Being an Appendix to the First Part.

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Title page

The HUNTER. CHAP. I. Of Hunting-Horses in general, their Excellency, and the necessity and benefit of the Art of Keeping.

CHAP. II. Of Breeding, the Choice of a Stallion, and Mares, with some general Remarks on Marks and Colours.

CHAP. III. Of the Age a Hunter should be of before he be put to Hunting; of the Stable, and Groom, and of the Horse's first taking up from Grass, in order to his further Dieting.

CHAP. IV. How to order the Hunter for the first Fortnight.

CHAP V. Of the Second Fortnights Diet, and of his first Hunting, and what Chases are most proper to Train him.

CHAP. VI. Of the Horses Third Fortnights Keeping, and first thorough-Sweating.

CHAP. VII. Of making a Hunting-Match, its advantages and disadvantages.

CHAP. IX. Of the Ordering the Hunter, for a Match or a Plate.

CHAP IX. Of the Means to judge of your Horses State of Body, and of curing all Casualties that may happen after Matching.

CHAP. X. Of riding a Hunting-Match, or Heats for a Plate, and the Advantages belonging to each.

ERRATA.

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The Royall Hart

The Hare

The Stagg

The fox

The Hinde

The Badger

The Buck

The Otter

The Roe Buck

The antient Hunting Noats with Marshs additions

Names of the Noats

— tone ton tavern, ton-tavern, ton-ton-tavern &c.

To call the Company in the morning

The Stroaks to the field.

To uncouple the Hounds

When the Hounds hunta Game unknown

A Recheate when the Hounds hunt a right Game

The double Recheate

The trebble or Sr Hervits Recheate

The Earthing of a ffox if recoverable

If not to call away

The death of a Hare

The death of a Buck

The death of a Staag or Hart

The death of a ffox

The call for a Keeper in Park or fforrest

The prize of a Hart Royall

The Stroaks for the Terriers when the ffox is earthed

To draw the Company out of the ffield

A Recheate or ffarewell at Parting

Theis Noats are Taught & Sould by Michaell Marsh at ye Haintsman at Holborne Bridge

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THE GENTLEMANS Recreation: In Four Parts, VIZ. HUNTING, HAWKING, FOWLING, FISHING Wherein These Generous EXERCISES are largely Treated of, and the Terms of Art for HUNTING and HAWKING more amply Enlarged than heretofore. Whereto is prefixt a large Sculpture, giving easie Directions for blowing the Horn, and other Sculptures inserted proper to each Recreation. With an ABSTRACT at the end of each SUBJECT of such LAWS as relate to the same.

The Third EDITION, With the Addition of a HUNTING-HORSE.

LONDON, Printed, and are to be sold by Jos. Phillips at the Seven Stars in St. Paul's Church-yard, and Hen. Rodes next door to the Swan-Tavern, near Bride-Lane in Fleetstreet, 1686.

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To the Right Honourable JAMES Lord NORREYES BARON of RICOT, His Majesties Lord-Lieutenant OF OXFORD-SHIRE.

IF to admire Worth and Honour were a Crime, it would highly concern me to beg your Lordships pardon for the presumption of this Address. For that's the Cause, [Page] this the Effect. It is true, the obscurity of my Condition, and remoteness of my Scituation, have plac'd me out of the reach of your Lordships Knowledge; yet your Lordships Fame Ecchoing out of Oxford-shire through all the very Corners of the Kingdom, could hardly escape my Ears, were I not particularly entitled to the same County, which hath given me thereby the greater opportunity both to know, and admire the Greatness of your Generosity, the Magnificence of your Living, and Prudence of your [Page] Governing, accompanied with all other Qualifications and Endowments requisite to render any person both Great and Good: As also, that though your Lordship is a great improver of your own natural parts by your elaborate studies, and of others Knowledge by your Edifying Conversation; yet to obviate Idleness, and to antidote Sickness, as also the better to enapt your active Body to suit your Loyal Mind for Martial Employments, should the concerns of your King and Country call you forth into the Field, [Page] your Lordship is a most indefatigable user of all active Sports and Recreations, and consequently become the great Oracle and Master of them all, and all their Artful Terms. Under what other Wing then could this little Treatise on those Subjects so properly creep for shelter and Protection? Under no other certainly, without some kind of Injustice to your Lordship, and real Injury to the Work it self. Be pleased therefore a little to unbend your Thoughts (I humbly beseech your Lordship) from your more serious Studies, [Page] allowing your Eyes to run over these few Leaves, and either vouchsafe to correct their Errours, (if any have escaped those Judicious Sports-men who have been pleased to be my Guides in perusing this Work, and purging it from many Errors and Mistakes of the former Edition) or stamp them with the unquestionable authority of your Lordships Approbation. This will oblige all true Lovers of the same generous Recreations to become greedy purchasers of these Rules, both to improve their Knowledge, and reduce their Language [Page] to the same significant terms, to the great satisfaction of the Buyers, and the benefit of Proprietor and Seller, who humbly craves leave to lay himself at your Lordships Feet, in the quality of

(May it please your Lordship)

Your Lordship's Most devoted humble Servant, Nicholas Cox.

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THE GENTLEMAN'S Recreation: OR, A TREATISE Giving the best Directions for HUNTING, AND KILLING all manner of CHASES used in ENGLAND. With the Terms of Art belonging thereunto. ALSO, A short Account of some peculiar Beasts not usually Hunted in ENGLAND. First Collected from Antient and Modern Authors; and now very much Corrected and Enlarged by many Worthy and Experienced Artists of this Recreation. With an Abstract of such Statute-Laws as relate to FORESTS and HUNTING.

The First Part.

London: Printed by J. C. and F. C. for N. C.

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OF HUNTING. The Introduction.

HUNTING is a Game and Recreation commendable not onely for Kings, Princes, and the Nobility, but likewise for private Gentlemen: And as it is a Noble and Healthy Pastime, so it is a thing which hath been highly prized in all Ages.

Besides, Hunting trains up Youth to the use of manly Exercises in their riper Age, being encouraged thereto by the pleasure they take in hunting the Stately Stag, the Generous Buck, the Wilde Boar, the Cunning Otter, the Crafty Fox, and the Fearful Hare; also the catching of Vermin by Engines, as the Fitchet, the Fulimart, the Ferret, the Polecate, the Moldwarp, and the like. Exercise herein preserveth Health, and increaseth Strength and Activity. Others inflame the hot Spirits of young men with roving Ambition, love of War, and seeds of Anger: But the Exercise of Hunting neither remits the Minde to Sloth nor Softness, [Page] nor (if it be used with moderation) hardens it to inhumanity; but rather inclines men to good Acquaintance, and generous Society. It is no small advantage to be enured to bear Hunger, Thirst, and Weariness from ones Childhood; to take up a timely habit of quitting ones Bed early, and loving to sit well and safe upon an Horse. What innocent and natural delights are they, when he seeth the day breaking fortl. those Blushes and Roses which Poets and Writers of Romances onely paint, but the Huntsman truely courts? When he heareth the chirping of small Birds pearching upon their dewy Boughs? when he draws in the fragrancy and coolness of the Air? How jolly is his Spirit, when he suffers it to be imported with the noise of Bugle-Horns, and the baying of Hounds, which leap up and play round about him.

Nothing doth more recreate the Minde, strengthen the Limbs, whet the Stomach, and clear up the Spirit, when it is heavy, dull, and over-cast with gloomy Cares: from whence it comes, that these delights have mcrited to be in esteem in all Ages, and even amongst barbaroas Nations, by the Lords, Princes, and highest Potentates.

Then it is admirable to observe the natural instinct of Enmity and Cunning, whereby one Beast being as it were confederate with man, by whom he is maintained, serves him in, his designes upon others. How perfect is the Scent or Smell of an Hound, who never leaves it, but follows it through innumerable changes and varieties of other Scents, even over and in the Water, and into the Earth? Again, how soon will a Hound fix his Eye on the best and fattest Buck of the Herd, single him out, and follow him, and him onely, without changing, through a whole Herd of rascal Game, and leave him not till he kills him? Moreover, [Page] is it not delightful and pleasant to observe the Docibleness of Dogs, which is as admirable as their Understanding? For as a right Huntsman knows the Language of his Hounds, so they know his, and the meaning of their own kinde, as perfectly as we can distinguish the voices of our friends and acquaintance from such as are strangers.

Again, how satisfied is a curious Minde, nay exceedingly delighted, to see the Game fly before him! and after that it hath withdrawn itself from his sight, to see the whole Line where it hath passed over, with all the doublings and cross works which the amazed and afrighted Beast hath made, recovered again; and all that Maze wrought out by the intelligence which he holds with Dogs! this is most pleasant, and as it were a Master-piece of natural Magick. Afterwards, what Triumph there is to return with Victory and Spoils, having a good Title both to his Appetite and Repose! Neither must it be omitted, that herein there is an especial need to hold a strict Rein over our affections, that this Pleasure, which is allowable in its season, may not intrench upon other Domestical affairs. There is great danger lest we be transported with this Pastime, and so our felves grow Wild, haunting the Woods till we resemble the Beasts which are Citizens of them; and by continual conversation with Dogs, become altogether addicted to Slaughter and Carnage, which is wholly dishonourable, being a servile employment. For as it is the priviledge of Man, who is endued with Reason, and Authorized in the Law of his Creation, to subdue the Beasts of the Field; so to tyrannize over them too much, is brutish in plain English.

Mistake me not, I intend this Reflection not for the Nobility and Gentry of this Nation, whose expence of time in this noble and delightful Exercise can no [Page] ways prejudice their large Possessions, since it is so far from being very chargeable, that it is exceeding profitable to the bodily health of such who can dispence with their staying at home without any injury to their Families.

I might much enlarge my self in the commendation of Hunting, but that I am loath to detain you too long from the knowledge of what will make a right and perfect Huntsman. I shall therefore thus conclude: No Musick can be more ravishingly delightful than a Pack of Hounds in full Cry, to such a man whose Heart and Ears are so happy to be set to the tune of such charming Instruments.

HUNTERS TERMS.

BEfore we shall treat of the Method that is to be used in the obtaining pleasure in the prosecution of this Royal Game, it will be very requisite, as an Introduction to this Work, first to understand those Terms of Art Huntsmen, Foresters, and Wood-men use, when they are discoursing of their commendable and highly recreative Profession. And first, let us consider

Which are Beasts of Forest, or Venery, or Venary, Chase, and Warren.

Old Foresters and Wood-men, with others well acquainted with Hunting, do reckon that there are five Beasts of Venery, (that are also called Beasts of Forest) which are these: the Hart, the Hinde, the Hare, the Boar, and Wolf: this is the Opinion of Budaeus [Page] likewise, in his Treatise of Philologie, speaking of the former Beasts, Semper Forestae & Veneris habentur Bestiae: These (saith he) are always accounted Beasts of Venery and Forest.

Some may here object and say, Why should the Heart and Hinde, being both of one kinde, be accounted two several Beasts? To this I answer, That though they are Beasts of one kind, yet they are of several seasons: for the Hart hath his season in Summer, and the season of the Hinde begins when the Hart's is over.

Here note, that with the Heart is included the Stag, and all other Red Deer of Antlier.

There are also five wild Beasts that are called Beasts of Chase; the Buck the Doe, the Fox, the Martron, and the Roe.

The Beasts and Fowls of Warren, are the Hare, the Coney, the Pheasant, and the Partridge; and none other, saith Mr. Manwood, are accounted Beasts nor Fowls of Warren.

My Lord Cook is of another Opinion, in his Commentary on Littleton 233. There be both Beasts and Fowls of the Warren, saith he: Beasts, as Hares, Coneys, and Roes: Fowls of two sorts, Terrestres, (and they of two sorts) Silvestres, & Campestres. The first, Pheasant, Wood-cock, &c. The second, Partridge, Quail, Rail, &c. Then Aquatiles, as Mallard, Hern, &c.

There is great difference between Beasts of Forest, and Chase; the first are Silvestres tantum, the latter Campestres tantum. The beasts of the Forest make their abode all the day-time in the great Coverts and secret places in the Woods; and in the night-season they repair into the Lawns, Meadows, Pastures, and pleasant feeding places; and therefore they are called Silvestres, Beasts of the Wood. The Beasts of Chase do reside all the day-time in the Fields, and [Page] upon the Hills or high Mountains, where they may see round about them afar off, to prevent danger; but upon nights approach they feed as the rest in Meadows, &c. and therefore these are called Campestres, Beasts of the Field.

Let us in the next place discover their Names, Seasons, Degrees, and Ages of Forest or Venery, Chase and Warren: and because the Hart is the most noble, worthy, and stately Beast, I shall place him first; and must call a Hart

The first year, a Hinde-calf, or Calf.

The second year, a Knobber.

The third year, a Brocke.

The fourth year, a Staggard.

The fifth year, a Stag.

The sixth year, a Hart.

If hunted by the King, a Hart Royal. If he escape, and Proclamation be made for his safe return without let or detriment, he is then called a Hart Royal Proclaimed.

It is a vulgar errour, according to the Opinion of Mr. Guillim, to think that a Stag, of what age soever he be, shall not be called a Hart till he be hunted by the King or Queen, and thence he shall derive his Title. Mr. George Turbervile saith positively, he shall not obtain that Name till he be hunted or killed by a Prince. But late Huntsmen do agree, he may be called a Hart at and after the age of six years old.

Now if the King or Queen shall happen to hunt or chase him, and he escape with life, he shall ever after be called a Hart Royal: But if he fly so far from the Forest or Chase, that it is unlikely he will ever return of his own accord to the place aforesaid, [Page] and that Proclamation be made in all Towns and Villages thereabouts, that none shall kill or offend him, but that he may safely return if he list; he is then called a Hart Royal Proclaimed.

The second Beast of Venery is called a Hinde.

And she is called the first year, a Calf.

The second year, a Hearse; and sometimes we say Brockets Sister, &c.

The third year, a Hinde.

The next and third, which by old Foresters is called the King of all Beasts of Venery, is the Hare.

And is called the first year, a Leveret.

The second year, a Hare.

The third year, a Great Hare.

The fourth Beast of Venery is called the Wilde-Boar.

The first year, he is a Pig of the Sounder.

The second year, he is a Hog.

The third year, he is a Hogs Steer.

The fourth year, he is a Boar; at which age, if not before, he leaveth the Sounder, and then he is called a Singler or Sanglier.

The fifth and last Beast of Venery is the Wolf.

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The names of the Beasts of Chase according to their Ages.

The first is the Buck.

It is called the first year, a Fawn.

The second year, a Pricket.

The third year, a Sorel.

The fourth year, a Sore.

The fifth year, a Buck of the first Head.

The sixth year, a Great Buck.

The second Beast of Chase is the Doe or Doo.

She is called the first year, a Fawn.

The second year, a Tegg.

The third year, a Doe.

The third Beast of Chase is the Fox.

And is called the first year, a Cub.

The secound year, a Fox, and afterwards an old Fox.

The fourth Beast of Chase is the Martern.

The first year, it is called a Cub.

The second year, a Martern.

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The fifth and last Beast of Chase is called the Roe.

The first year, it is called a Kid.

The second year, a Gyrle

The third year, a Hemuse.

The fourth year, a Roe-Buck of the first Head.

The fifth year, a Fair Roe-Buck.

As for the Beasts of the Warren, the Hare hath been spoken of already. The Coney is called the first year a Rabbet, and afterwards an old Coney.

The Seasons of Beasts.

A Hart or Buck beginneth at the end of Fencer Month, which is 15 days after Midsummer-day, and lasteth till Holy-rood-day. The Fox at Christmas, and lasteth till the Annuntiation of the Blessed Virgin. The Hinde or Doe beginneth at Holy-rood-day, and lasteth till Candlemas. The Roe-Buck beginneth at Easter, and lasteth till Michaelmas. The Roe beginneth at Michaelmas, and lasteth till Candlemas. The Hare beginneth at Michaelmas, and lasteth till the end of February. The season of the Wolf is said to be from Christmas till the Annuntiation of the Virgin Mary. Lastly, The Boar begins at Christmas, and continues to the Purification of our Lady.

Terms to be used for Beasts of Venery and Chase, as they are in Company one with the other.

A Herd of Harts.

A Herd of all manner of Deer.

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A Bevy of Roes.

A Sounder of Swine.

A Rout of Wolves.

A Richess of Marterns.

A Brace or Lease of Bucks.

A Brace or Lease of Foxes.

A Brace or Lease of Hares.

A Couple of Rabbets.

A Couple of Coneys.

Terms for their Lodging.

A Hart Harboureth.

A Buck Lodgeth.

A Roe Beddeth.

A Hare Seateth, or Formeth.

A Coney Sitteth.

A Fox Kennelleth.

A Martern Treeth.

An Otter Watcheth.

A Badger Eartheth.

A Boar Coucheth.

Terms for their Dislodging.

Unharbour the Hart.

Rouze the Buck.

Start the Hare.

Bolt the Coney.

Unkennel the Fox.

Tree the Martern.

Vent the Otter.

Dig the Badger.

Rear the Boar.

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Terms for their Noise at Rutting time.

A Hart Belleth.

A Buck Growneth or Troateth.

A Roe Belloweth.

A Hare Beateth or Tappeth.

An Otter Whineth.

A Boar Freameth.

A Fox Barketh.

A Badger Shricketh.

A Wolf Howleth.

A Goat Ratleth.

Terms for Copulation.

A Hart or Buck goeth to Rut.

A Roe goeth to Tourn.

A Boar goeth to Brim.

A Hare and Coney goeth to Buck.

A Fox goeth to Clickitting.

A Wolf goeth to Match or to Make.

An Otter hunteth for his Kinde.

Terms for the Footing and Treading of all Beasts of Venery and Chase.

Of a Hart, the Slot.

Of a Buck and all Fallow Deer, the View.

Of all Deer, if on the Grass, and scarce visible, then it is called Foiling.

Of a Fox, the Print; and other such Vermin, the Footing.

Of an Otter, the Marks.

Of a Boar, the Tract.

Of a Hare, diversly; for when she is in open Field, [Page] she Soreth: When she winds about to deceive the Hounds, then she Doubleth: When she beateth on the hard High-way, and her Footing can be perceived, then she Pricketh; and in the Snow, it is called the Trace of the Hare.

Terms of the Tail.

Of a Hart, Buck, or other Deer, the Single.

Of a Boar, the Wreath.

Of a Fox, the Brush or Drag; and the Tip at the end is called the Chape.

Of a Wolf, the Stern.

Of a Hare and Coney, the Scut.

Terms for their Ordure.

Of a Hart, and all Deer, their Excrement is called Fewmets or Fewishing.

Of a Hare, Crotiles or Crotising.

Of a Boar, Lesses.

Of a Fox, the Billiting; and all other such Vermin, the Fuants.

Of an Otter, the Spraints.

Terms for the Attire of Deer.

Of a Stag, if perfect, the Bur, the Pearls (the little Knobs on it) the Beam, the Gutters, the Antlier, the Sur-Antlier, Royal, Sur-Royal, and all at top the Croches.

Of a Buck, the Bur, the Beam, the Brow-Antlier, the Back-Antlier, the Advancer, Palm, and Spellers.

If the Croches grow in form of a mans Hand, it is then called a Palmed Head. Heads bearing not above three or four, the Crotches being plac'd aloft all [Page] of one height, are called Crown'd Heads. Heads having doubling Croches, are called Forked Heads, becase the Croches are planted on the top of the Beam like Forks.

If you are asked what a Stag bears, you are onely to reckon Croches he bears, and never to express an odde number: As, if he hath four Croches on his near Horn, and five on his far, you must say, he beareth ten, a false Right on his near Horn (for all that the Beam bears are called Rights.) If but four on the near Horn, and fix on the far Horn, you must say he bears twelve, a double false Right on the near Horn; for you must not onely make the number even, but also the Horns even with that distinction.

When a Hart breaketh Herd, and draweth to the Thickets or Coverts, we usually say he taketh his Hold, or he goeth to Harbour.

All kind of Deers fat is called Sewit; and yet you may say, This Deer was a high Deer of Grease. The fat of a Boar is called Grease. The fat of a Roe onely is called Beavy Grease.

We say the Deer is broken up. The Fox and Hare is cased

It is

A Litter of Cubs.

A Nest of Rabbets.

A Squirrels Dray.

Venison, or Venaison, is so called, from the means whereby the Beasts are taken, quoniam ex Venatione capiuntur; and being hunted, are most wholsome.

Beasts of Venary (not Venery, as some call it) are so termed, because they are gotten by Hunting.

No Beast of the Forest that is Solivagam & nocivum is Venison, as the Fox, the Wolf, the Martin, because they are no meat. The Bear is no Venison, because not onely that he is Animal nocivum & Solivagam; [Page] but because he is no beast of the Forest, and whatsoever is Venison must be a beast of the Forest; sed non è converso. On the other side, Animalia gregalia non sunt nociva, as the Wilde Boar; for naturally the first three years he is Animal gregale; and after trusting to his own strength, and for the pleasure of man, becometh Solivagum. He is then called Sanglier, because he is Singularis: but he is Venison, and to be eaten. The Hare is Venison too, which Martial preferreth before all others.‘Inter Quadrupedes gloria prima Lepus.’

So are the Red-Deer and Fallow-Deer Venison: vide Cook Inst. 4. pag. 316. Give me leave to insert here out of the same Author two Conclusions in the Law of the Forest, which follow from hence. First, Whatsoever Beast of the Forest is for the food of man, that is Venison: and therewith agreeth Virgil, describing of a Feast,‘Implentur Veteris Bacchi pinguisque ferinae.’

They had their belly full of Old Wine and Fat Venison. So Venison was the principal Dish of the Feast. Secondly, Whatsoever Beast is not for the food of man, is not Venison. Therefore Capriolus, or the Roe, being no Beast of the Forest, is by the Law of the Forest no Venison unless Hunted. Nature hath endewed the Beasts of the Forest with two qualities, Swiftness, and Fear; and their Fear increaseth their Swiftness.‘— Pedibus timor addidit alas.’

Vert is any thing that beareth green Leaf, but especially of great and thick Coverts, and is derived à Viriditate. [Page] Vert is of divers kinds; some that beareth Fruit that may serve for food both for man and beasts, as Service-trees, Nut-trees, Crab-trees, &c. and for the shelter and defence of the Game. Some called Hautboys, serving for Food and browse of and for the Game, and for the defence of them; as Oaks, Beeches, &c. Some Hautboys for Browse, Shelter, and Defence onely; as Ashes, Poplars, &c. Of Sub-boys, some for Browse and Food of the Game, and for Shelter and Defence; as Maples, &c. Some for Browse and Defence; as Birch, Sallow, Willow, &c. Some for Shelter and Defence onely; as Elder, Alder, &c. Of Bushes and other Vegetables, some for Food and Shelter, as the Hiw-thorn, Black-thorn, &c. Some for hiding and shelter, as Brakes, Gorse, Heath, &c. Vert, as I said, comes à Viridi; thence Viridarii, because their Office is to look after the preservation of the Vert, which in truth is the preservation of Venison.

Terms for Flaying, Stripping, and Casing of all manner of CHASES.

The Hart and all manner of Deer are slain: Huntsmen commonly say, Take off that Deer's Skin. The Hare is Stripped or Cased; and so is the Boar too, according to the opinion of the Antients. The Fox, the Badger, and all manner of Vermin are cased, beginning at the Snout or Nose of the Beast, and so turn his Skin over his Ears down to the Body till you come to the Tail.

Proper Terms for the Noises of Hounds.

When Hounds are first cast off, and find some Game or Chase, we say. They Challenge. If they are too busie before they find the scent good, we say, They Bawl. If [Page] they be too busie after they find good scent, we say, They Babble. If they run it end-ways orderly, making it good, and then hold in together merrily, we say, They are in full Cry. When Spaniels open in the string, (or a Grey-hound in his course) we say, They Lapse. When Hounds hang behinde, and beat too much upon the scent or place, we say, Thy Plod. And when they have either Earthed a Virmin, or brought a Deer, Boar, or such-like to turn head against them, then we say, They Bay.

Different Terms for Hounds and Grey-hounds.

Of Grey-hounds, two make a Brace; of Hounds, a Couple. Of Grey-hounds, three make a Leace; and of Hounds, a Couple and half.

We let slip a Grey-hound, and cast off a Hound. The string where with we lead a Grey-hound, is called a Leace; and for a Hound, a Lyome. The Grey-hound hath his Collar, and the Hound hath his Couples. We say, a Kennel of Hounds, and a Pack of Beagles. Some other differences there are, but these are the most usual.

Where we find Deer have lately passed into Thickets, &c. by which we guess their greatness, and then put the Hounds or Beagles thereto for the View, we account such places Entries.

The Impression where any Deer hath reposed or harboured, we call a Layr.

When the Hounds or Beagles hit the scent of their Chase contrary, as to hit it up the wind when they should it down, we then say, they Draw amiss.

When the Hounds or Beagles take fresh scent, hunting another Chase, until they stick and hit it again, we say, they Hunt Change.

When the Hounds or Beagles hunt it by the Heel, we say, they Hunt Counter.

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When the Chase goes off, and comes on again traversing the same ground, to deceive the Hounds or Beagles, we say, they Hunt the Foil.

When we set Hounds in readiness where we expect the Deer will come by, and then cast them off when the other Hounds are pass'd by, we account that a Relay.

When Hounds or Beagles have finish'd their Chase by the death of what they pursued, and then in requital are fed by the hands of the Huntsman or others, we call that their Reward.

Huntsmen when they go drawing in their Springs at Hart-Hunting, usually make Dew-rounds, which we call Ringwalks.

When any Deer is hard hunted, and then betakes himself to swimming in any River, &c. then we say, he takes Soyl.

When Deer cast their Horns, we say, they Mew.

The first head of a Fallow-Deer is called Prick.

When Huntsmen endeavour to find a Hart by the Slot, &c. and then minde his step to know whether he is great and long, they then say, they know him by his Gate.

When Deer rub and push their heads against Trees to cause the Pills of their new Horns come off, we say, they Fray.

When Deer, after being hard run, turn head against the Hounds, we say, they Bay.

When Hounds or Beagles run long without opening or making any cry, we say, they run Mute.

When Hounds or Beagles at first finding the scent of their Game presently open and cry, we then say, they Challenge.

When Hounds run at a whole Herd of Deer, we say, they Run Riot.

When the Hounds touch the scent, and draw on till they rouze or put up the Chase, we say, they Draw on the Slot.

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When a Roe crosses and doubles, it is called Trajoning.

When a Hare, as sometimes (though seldom) takes the ground like a Coney, we then say, she Goes to the Vault.

When we beat the Bushes, &c. after the Fox, we call it Drawing.

When a Hare runs on rotten ground, or in a Frost sometimes, and then it sticks to her Feet, we say, she Carryeth.

When the Fox hath young ones in her, we say, she is with Cub.

When Beagles bark and cry at their Prey, we say, they Yearn.

A Red Male Heart of an year old, is called a Spitter.

A Rayn-Deer, is a beast like an Heart, but hath his Head fuller of Antliers.

A Pricker, is a Huntsman on Horse-back.

Engines that we take Deer withal, are called Wiles.

When we set Hounds or Beagles in readiness, expecting the Chase to come by, and then cast them off before the rest come in, we call it a Vauntlay.

When Hounds or Beagles find where the Chase hath been, and made a proffer to enter, but returned, we say, there is a Blemish.

We say How to a Deer.

When we start a Hare, we say, That, that, or There, there.

The Call, a Lesson blowed on the Horn to comfort the Hounds.

A Recheat, a Lesson likewise blown on the Horn. The Mort or Death, is blown at the death of any Deer. There are several other Lessons, which you may find in the Sculpture of Notes for blowing on the Horn.

There are several Hounds and Beagles which we have different Titles for; as Gaze-hound, Blood-hound, Staunch-hound, Harrier, and Terrier, &c. But we generally [Page] in all our Kennels and Packs rank them under these heads: Enterers, Drivers, Flyers, Tyers, &c.

And now to conclude our discourse of general Terms at this place, give us leave to insert, for such young Gentlemen as in time may keep a Kennel, some usual Names of Hounds and Beagles.

A CATALOGUE of some general Names OF HOUNDS and BEAGLES.

BAnger

Beauty

Blue-man

Blue-cap

Boman

Bonny

Bouncer.

Captain

Capper

Chanter

Countess

Cryer

Caesar.

Dido

Driver

Drunkard

Drummer

Damosel

Darling

Dutchess

Dancer

Daphne.

Fancy

Fidler

Flippant

Flurry

Fuddle.

Gallant

Gawdy.

Hector.

Juggler

Jewel

Jocky

Jenny

Joler

Jollyboy

Jupiter

Juno.

Keeper

Kilbuck.

Lively

Lovely

Lady

Lilly

Lillups.

Madam

Maulkin

Merryboy

Mopsie

Motley

Musick.

Nancy

Nacter.

Plunder

Pleasant

Pluto.

Rockwood

Ringwood

Rover

Ranter

Ratler

Ruler

Ranger

[Page]Royal

Rapper

Rusfler.

Spanker

Singwel

Sweetlips

Soundwel

Stately.

Troler

Thunder

Thisbe

Truman

Truelove

Tickler

Tattler

Tulip

Truelips

Touchstone

Traveller

Tracer

Touler

Tunewel

Tidings

Trouncer

Trusty

Truescent

Tryer.

Venus

Vulcan

Violet.

Wanton

Wonder

Winder

Whipster.

Yerker

Younker.

Some other Terms and Descriptions relating more particularly to Forest and Forest-Laws.

A Forest, is a place priviledged by Royal Authority and differs from Park, Warren, and Chase, and is on purpose allotted for the peaceable abiding and nourishment of the Beasts and Fowls thereto belonging. For which there are certain peculiar Laws, Officers, and Orders; part of which appear in the Great Charter of the Forest.

A Forester, is an Officer of the Forest, sworn to preserve the Vert and Venison therein, and to attend the wild beasts within his Bailiwick, and to watch, and endeavour to keep them safe by day and night. He is likewise to apprehend all Offenders in Vert and Venison, and to present them to the Courts of the Forest to the end they may be punished according to their offences.

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A Purlieu, is all that ground adjoyning to Forests, which being made Forest by Henry the second, Richard the first, or King John, were by perambulations granted by Henry the third, and severed again from the same.

A Purlieu-man, is he that hath ground within the Purlieu, and hath 40 s. a year Free-hold; and such a one with some caution may hunt within his own Purlieu.

A Regarder, is an Officer of the Kings Forest, that is sworn to take care of the Vert and Venison, and to view and enquire of all the offences committed within the Forest, and of all the Concealments of them; and whether all other Officers do execute their Office or not.

Woodgeld, is the gathering or cutting of Wood in the Forest, or the money paid for it to the use of the Foresters; or an Immunity for this by the King's Grant.

A Raunger, In some Forests there are twelve Raungers, whose Offices are to look after the Purlieu, and drive back the wild Beasts into the Forest again; and to see, hear, and enquire of offenders there, and to present their offences.

A Verderor, is an Officer of the King's Forest, and chosen by the Free-holders of the County where the Forest is, by the Kings Writ directed to the Sheriff for that purpose. Their Office is chiefly to look after the Wood and Grass in the Forest.

An Agistor, is an Officer of the Forest that takes in to feed the Cattle of Strangers, and receives for the Kings use all such tack-Money as becomes due from those Strangers.

A Chase, is a place used for the receipt of Deer and Beasts of the Forest: It differs from a Forest and Park. It may be in the hands of a Subject, which a [Page] Forest in its proper nature cannot be. Neither is it inclosed as a Park always is; and it hath a larger compass, more store of Game, and more Keepers and Overseers.

Expeditate, is (saith Mr. Crompton) the cutting out the ball of the Foot of great Dogs in the Forest; but (saith Mr. Manwood) it is the cutting off the three fore-Claws by the Skin; and that the owner of every such Dog, unexpeditated in the Forest, shall forfeit 3s. 4d.

Fence Month, hath 31 days, begins 15 days before Midsummer, and ends 15 days after: In which time it is unlawful for any to hunt in the Forest, or to go amongst the Deer to disquiet them; because it is the time of Fawning.

Frank Chase, is a liberty of free Chase in a Circuit annexed to a Forest, whereby all men that have ground within the circuit are forbidden to cut down Wood, or discover, &c. within the view of the Forester, though it be his own Demesne.

Green-hue, or Vert, they both signifie one thing, it being every thing that doth drow and bear green Leaf within the Forest, that may cover and hide the Deer.

Over Vert, is all manner of high Wood.

Nether Vert, is all sorts of under-wood. Brushwood is called Cablish.

Horngeld, is a Tax within the Forest for all manner of horned beasts.

Footgeld, is an Amercement on such as live within the Forest, for not expeditating their Dogs. And to be quit of Footgeld, is a priviledge to keep Dogs there Unlawed without Punishment or Controlement.

Pawnage, is Money taken by the Agistors for the feed of Hogs with the Mast of the Kings's Forest; [Page] but (Mr. Crompton saith) it is most properly the Mast, Woods, Lands, or hedg'd Rows, or Money due to the owners of the same for it.

A Scotale, is where any Officer of the Forest doth keep an Ale-house in the Forest by colour of his Office, causing men to come to his House, and to spend their money there for fear of having displeasure; but this is forbidden by Charta Forest.

Perambulation, is the admeasurement and setting down of Bounds and Limits to the Forest.

Drift of the Forest, is an exact view and examination taken at certain times, as occasion shall serve, to know what beasts are there; that none Common there but such as have right; and that the Forest be not overcharged with the beasts of Forreigners.

An Assart, is a great offence committed in the Forest, by grubbing up the Woods, Coverts, and Thickets, and making them plain as Arable Land, or the like.

Minoverie, is a Trespass or Offence committed by some Engine set up in the Forest to catch Deer, or the like.

Tritis, is a freedom that one hath from holding a Grey-hound in ones hand when the Lord of the Forest is hunting there, or to be amerced for his default.

Protoforestarius, was a great Officer heretofore in Windsor Forest.

Stablestand, is when one is found standing in the Forest with his Bow ready bent to shoot at any Deer or, with his Grey-hound in a Lease ready to slip.

Swainmote, or Swannimote, is a Court appointed to be held thrice in a year within a Forest; the first, 15 days before Michaelmas; the second, about Martinmas; and the third, 15 days before St. John Baptist.

Chiminage, is taken by Foresters in fee throughout [Page] their Bailiwick for Bushes, Timber, &c. and signifies the same with Toll.

Afforest, is to turn Land into Forest.

Disafforest, is to turn Land from being Forest to other uses.

Let what hath been said be sufficient for an Introduction, and let us conclude it with a perswasion to all generous Souls not to slight this noble and worthy Exercise, (wherein is contained so much health and pleasure) for the besotting Sensualities, and wicked Debaucheries of a City, in which the course of Nature seems to be inverted, Day turn'd into Night, and Night into Day; where there is little other Recreation but what Women, Wine, and a Bawdy Play can afford them; whereby, for want of Labour and Exercise, Mens Bodies contain as many Diseases as are in a sickly Hospital.

Of DOGS in general.

AS there is no Country in the World wherein there is not plenty of Dogs, so no Animal can boast of greater variety both in shape and kind.

Some Dogs are very great, as the Wolf-dog, which is shaped like a Grey-hound, but by much taller, longer, and thicker; some are for the Buck, others for the Boar, Bear, and Bull; some for the Hare, Coney, and Hedge-hog; some are both for Water and Land, and they are called Spaniels; other are called Lurchers, Tumblers, Brachers, Beagles, &c. As for Shepherds Dogs, foisting Curs, and such whom some fond Ladies make their daily, nay nightly Companions [Page] too, I shall pass over, being neither worthy to be inserted in this Subject, nor agreeable thereunto: wherefore I shall onely treat of such whose natures do incline them to Game, for mans Pastime and Recreation.

In the first place, let us consider the Nature of Dogs in general, wherein they agree, and their common properties of Nature, such as are not destroyed in the distinction of kinds, but remain like infallible Truths, and invariable in every kind and Country through the Universe. Dogs (as it is to be observed) are generally rough; and their Hair indifferently long (which in Winter they lose every year) is a signe of a good constitution; but if it grow over-long, the Mange will follow. The outward proportion of the Head altereth as the kind altereth, having no commissure or seam in the Skull, being a continued bone without separation.

The best Dogs (in Pliny's Opinion) have flat Nostrils, yet round, solid, and blunt: Their Teeth are like Saws, which they change in the fourth month of their age: and by them is their age discerned; for while they are white and sharp, it discovers the youth of a Dog; but when they grow blackish or dusky, broken and torn, they demonstrate the elder age.

The Breast of a Dog is narrow, so is his Ventricle: for which cause he is always in pain in the discharging his Excrements.

After they have run a Course, they relieve themselves by tumbling and rowling to and fro. When they lie down, they turn round in a circle two or three times together; which they do for no other cause, but that they may the more commodiously lie round, and from the Wind.

In their sleep they often dream, as may appear by their barking. Here observe, that they who love to [Page] keep Dogs, must have a special care that they let them not sleep too much, especially after their Meat, when they are young: for as they are very hot, so in their sleep doth their heat draw much pain into their Stomack and Ventricle. The time of their Copulation is for the most part at a year old; yet the Females will lust after it sooner; but they should be restrained from it, because it debilitates their Body, and dulls their Generofity. After the expiration of a year, they may be permitted to copulate; it matters not whether in Winter or Summer, but it is best in the beginning of the Spring: but with this caution, that Whelps of a Litter, or of one and the same Bitch, be never suffered to couple; for Nature delights in variety.

In antient time, for the more ennobling of their race of Dogs, they would not permit them to ingender till the Male was four year old, and the Female three; for by that means the Whelps would prove more strong and lively. By Hunting, Labour, and Travel, the Males are made more fit for Generation, and they prove best which have their Siers of equal age. When they grow proud, give them Leaven mingled with Milk and Salt, and they will not stray and ramble abroad.

It is not good to preserve the first or second Litter, but the third: and after they have littered, it is good to give the Bitch Whey and Barley-bread; for that will comfort her, and increase her Milk: or take the Bones of broken Meat, and seeth them in Goats-Milk: which nutriment will strengthen very much both Dam and Whelps.

There is no great regard to be had as to the Food of a Dog, for he will eat any thing but the Flesh of his own kinde; for that cannot be so dressed by the art of Man, but they find it out by their Nose, and [Page] avoid it. It is good to let the Whelps suck two Months before they be weaned, and that of their own Dam.

Put Cummin now and then in their bread, it will cure or prevent Wind in their bellies; and if Oyl be mingled with that Water they lap, they will prove more able and swift to run. If he refuse and loath his Meat, give him a little hot Bread, or dip brown Bread in Vinegar, and sqeeze the liquor thereof into his Nose, and it will ease him.

There is some difficulty to chuse a Whelp under the Dam that will prove the best of the Litter. Some observe that which seeth last, and take that for the best: others remove the Whelps from the Kennel, and lay them several and apart one from the other; then watch they which of them the Bitch first taketh and carrieth into her Kennel again, and that they take for the best; or else that which vomiteth last of all. Some again give for a certain rule to know the best, that the same which weigheth least while it sucketh will prove the best, according to the Verses of Nemesian:

Pondere nam Catuli poteris perpendere viris,

Corporibusque leves gravibus pernoscere cursu.

But this is certain, that the lighter Whelp will prove the swifter, and the heavier will be the stronger.

As soon as as the Bitch hath littered, it is requisite to chuse them you intend to preserve, and throw away the rest: keep the black, brown, or of one colour, for the spotted are not much to be accounted of; but of Hounds, spotted are to be valued.

There is not any Creature irrational, more loving to his Master, nor more serviceable than a Dog, enduring blows from his hands, and using no other means [Page] to pacifie his displeasure, than Humiliation and prostration; and after beating, turneth a Revenge into a more fervent Love. Irrational, did I say,? I may mistake, if what AElianus reports be true, who thought Dogs have Reason, and use Logick in their Hunting; for they will cast about for the Game, as a Disputant doth for the truth; as if they should say, the Hare is gone either on the left hand, the right, or straight forward; but not on the left or right, Therefore straight forward. Whereupon he runneth forthright after the true and infallible footsteps of the Hare.

Of Dogs for Hunting. Of the Hound Rache and SLUTH-HOUND, so called in Scotland, and by the Germans SCHLATHUND.

THere are to England and Scotland two kindes of Hunting-Dogs, and no where else in all the World: The first kind is called Ane Rache, and this is a Foot-scenting creature both of wild Beasts, Birds, and Fishes also, which lie hid among the Rocks: The Female hereof in England is called a Brache. A Brach, is a mannerly name for all Hound-Bitches. The second in Scotland is called a Sluth-hound, being a little greater than the Hunting-Hound, and in colour for the most part brown or sandy spotted. The sense of Smelling is so quick in these, that they can follow the Foot-steps of Thieves, and pursue them with violence until they overtake them: nay, should the Thief take the Water, so eager they are in their pursuit, that they will swim after them; and are restless till they find the thing they seek after: For this is common in the Borders [Page] of England and Scotland, where the people were wont to live much upon Theft: and if the Dog brought his Leader to any house where they may not be suffered to enter, they take it for granted that there is both the stolen Goods, and the Thief also.

Of the BLOOD-HOUND.

THe Blood-hound differeth nothing in quality from the Scotish Sluth-hound, saving that they are more largely sized, and not always of one and the same colour: for they are sometimes Red, Sanded, Black, White, Spotted, and of all colours with other Hounds, but most commonly either brown or red.

The Germans call this beast Langhund, because their Ears are long, thin, and hanging down; and they differ not from vulgar Dogs in any other outward proportion, than onely in their Cry and Barking. Their nature is, being set on by the voice and words of their Leader, to cast about for the sitting of the present Game; and having found it, will never cease pursuing it with full cry, till it is tired, without changing for any other. They seldome bark, except in their Chase, and are very obedient and attentive to the Voice of the Leader.

They which are white, are said to be the quickest scented, and surest Nos'd, and therefore best for the Hare: The black ones for the Boar; and the red for the Hart and Roe. This is the Opinion of some, but none of mine; because their colour (especially the latter) are too like the Game they Hunt: although there can be nothing certain collected of their colour, yet is the black Hound hardier, and better able to endure cold than the other which is white. They [Page] must be tied up till they hunt, yet so as they be let loose now and then a little to ease their Bellies; for it is necessary that their Kennel be kept sweet and dry. It is questionable how to discern a Hound of excellent sense: yet some are of the Opinion that the square and flat Nose is the best signe thereof; likewise a small Head, having all his Legs of equal length; his Breast not deeper than his Belly, and his Back plain to his Tail; his Eyes quick, his Ears hanging long; his Tail nimble, and the beak of his Nose always to the Earth; and especially such as are most silent, and bark least.

Consider now the divers and variable dispositions of Hounds in their finding out the Beast. Some are of that nature, that when they have found the Game, they will stand still till the Huntsman come up, to whom in silence, by their Face, Eye, and Tail, they shew the Game: others, when they have found the foot-steps, go forward without any voice or other shew of Ear or Tail: Another sort when, when they have found the footings of the Beast, prick up their Ears a little, and either bark or wag their Tails; and others will wag their Tails, and not move their Ears.

There are some again that do none of these, but wander up and down barking about the surest marks, and confounding their own foot-steps with the Beasts they hunt; or else forsake the way, and so run back again to the first head; but when they see the Hare, are affraid, not daring to come near her, except she start first. These, with the other which hinder the cunning labours of their Colleagues, trusting to their Feet, and running before their betters, deface the best mark, or else hunt counter, and take up any false scent for the truth; or, which is more reprehensible, never forsake the High-ways, and yet have not learned to be [Page] silent: Unto these you may also adde those which cannot discern the Footing or Pricking of a Hare, yet will they run speedy when they see her, pursuing her hotly in the beginning, and afterwards tire, or hunt lazily. All these are not to be admitted into a Kennel of good Hounds.

On the contrary, those Hounds which are good when they have found the Hare, make shew thereof to the Huntsman, by running more speedily, and with gesture of Head, Eyes, Ears, and Tail, winding to the Fourm or Hares Muse, never give over prosecution with a gallant noise: they have good and hard Feet, and stately Stomacks.

Now whereas the nature of the Hare is sometimes to leap and make headings, sometimes to tread softly with but a very small impression in the Earth, or sometimes to lie down, and ever to leap or jump out and into her own Form, the poor Hound is so much the more busied and troubled to retain the small scent of her pricking which she leaveth behinde her; for this cause it is requisite that you help the Hound, not onely with Voice, Eye, and Hand, but with a seasonable Time also: for in frosty weather the scent freezeth with the Earth, so that there is no certainty of hunting till it thaw, or that the Sun arise. Likewise if very much Rain fall between the starting of the Hare and time of hunting, it is not convenient to hunt till the Water be dried up; for the drops disperse the scent of the Hare, and dry weather collecteth it again. The Summer-time also is not for hunting, because the heat of the weather consurneth the scent; and the night being then but short, the Hare travelleth not far, feeding onely in the morning and evening: besides, the fragrancy of Flowers and Herbs then growing, obliterates the scent the Hounds are guided by.

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The best time for hunting with these Hounds is in Autumn, because then the former Odours are weakned, and the Earth barer than at other time.

These Hounds do not onely chase their Game while it liveth, but being dead also by any manner of casualty, make recourse to the place where it lieth, having in this point an assured and infallible Guide, namely, the Scent and Savour of the Blood sprinkled here and there upon the ground: for whether the Beast being wounded doth notwithstanding enjoy life, and escapeth the hands of the Huntsman; or whether the said Beast, being slain, is conveyed cleanly out of the Park, (so that there be some marks of bloodshed) these Dogs, with no less facility and easiness, than avidity and greediness, disclose and bewray the same by Smelling, applying to their pursuit agility and nimbleness, without tediousness; for which consideration, of a singular speciality they deserved to be called Sanguinarii, Blood-Hounds: And although a piece of flesh be subtilly stolen, and cunningly conveyed away, with such proviso's and precaveats, as thereby all appearances of Bloud is thereby prevented or concealed; yet these kind of Dogs, by certain direction of an inward assured notice and private mark, pursue these desperate Deer-stealers through craggy Ways, and crooked Meanders, till they have found them out: yea, so effectual is their foresight, that they can discover, separate, and pick them out from an infinite multitude; creep they never so far into the thickest throng, they will find them out notwithstanding.

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Of the GAZE-HOUND.

THis Dog is little beholding in Hunting to his Nose or Smelling, but to sharpness of Sight altogether, by the vertue whereof it makes excellent sport with the Fox and Hare.

This Dog will chuse and separate from amongst a great Flock or Herd, and such a one will it take by election, as is not lank or lean, but full, fat, and round.

If a Beast be wounded and go astray, this Dog will seek after it by the sreadfastness of the Eye; if it happen to return, and be mingled with the residue of the Herd, this Dog will soon spy it out, leaving the rest untouched: and after he hath set sure sight upon it, he separateth it from the company; and having so done, never ceaseth till he hath wearied it to death.

This Dog is called in Latine Agasaeus, because the beams of the Sight are so stedfastly setled, and unmoveably fastned. These Dogs are much used in the Northern parts of England, much more than in the Southern; and on Champion ground rather than in bushy and woody places: Horsemen use them more than Footmen.

If it happen so at any time that this Dog take a wrong way, the Master making some usual signe, and familiar token, he returneth forthwith, and taketh the right and ready course, beginning his Ghase afresh, and with a clear Voice, and a swift Foot, followeth the Game with as much courage and nimbleness as he did at the first.

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Of the GREY-HOUND.

AMong the divers kinds of Hunting-dogs, the Grey-hound, by reason of his Swiftness, Strength, and Sagacity to follow and pursue his Game, deserveth the first place; for such are the conditions of this Dog as a Philosopher observeth, that he is reasonably scented to find out, speedy and quick of foot to follow, and fierce and strong to take and overcome; and yet silent, coming upon his Prey at unawares, according to the observation of Gratius:

Sic Canis illa suos taciturna supervenit hostes.

The best Grey-hound hath a long Body, strong, and reasonable great, not so big as the Wolf-dog in Ireland; a neat sharp Head, and splendant Eyes; a long Mouth, and sharp Teeth; little Ears, and thin Gristles in them; a straight Neck, and a broad and strong Breast; his fore Legs straight and short, his hinder Legs long and straight; broad Shoulders, round Ribs, fleshy Buttocks, but not fat; a long Tail, strong, and full of Sinews. Thus Nemesian eloquently describes the best of Grey-hounds:

— Sit cruribus altis,

Costarum sub fine decenter prona carinam:

Renibus ampla satis validis deducta (que) coras

Sit rigid is, multam (que) gerat sub pectore lato,

Quae sensim rursus ficca se collig at alvo:

Cui (que) nimis molles fluitent in cursibus Aures.

Elige tunc cursu facilem, facilem (que) recursu,

Dum superant vires, dum laeto flore juventus.

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Of this kind, that is always the best to be chosen among the Whelps, which weigheth lightest; for it will be soonest at the Game, and so hang upon it, hindering its swiftness, till the stronger and heavier Dogs come to help and offer their assistance; and therefore besides the marks or necessary good parts of a Grey-hound already spoken of, it is requisite that he have large sides, and a broad midriff, that so he may take his breath in and out more easily: his Belly must be small; if otherwise, it will hinder the swiftness of his course: likewise he must have long Legs, thin and soft Hairs. And these must the Huntsman lead on his left hand, if he be afoot; and on the right, if on Horse-back.

The best time to try them and train them to their Game, is at twelve Months old; yet some begin sooner with them, that is, at ten Months if they are Males, and at eight if Females: yet it is surest not to strain them, or permit them to run a long Course, till they be twenty Moneths old. Keep them also in the Slip while they are abroad, until they can see their Course; and loosen not a young Dog, until the Game have been on foot for a good season, lest being over-greedy of the Prey, he strain his limbs too much.

The Grey-hounds which are most in request among the Germans, are called Windspil, alluding to compare their swiftness with the Wind; but the French make most account of those that are bred in the Mountains of Dalmatia, or in any other Mountains, especially of Turkie; for such have hard Feet, long Ears, and bristle Tails.

The Grey-hound (called by the Latins Leporarius) hath his name from the word Gre, which word soundeth Gradus in Latine, in English Degree; because among all Dogs, these are the most principal, having the chiefest place, and being simply and absolutely the best of the gentle kind of Hounds.

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Of the HARRIER and TERRIER.

THe Harrier in Latine is called Leverarius, or Sagax; by the Greeks, Ichneuten, of tracing or chasing by the Foot.

Nature hath endewed this Creature with an admirable gift of Smelling, and is bold and courageous in the pursuit of his Game. There are several sorts of them, and all differ in their Services: some are for the Hare, the Fox, the Wolf, the Hart, the Buck, the Badger, the Otter, the Polecat, the Weasle, the Coney, &c. some for one thing, some for another.

As for the Coney, we use not to hunt, but take it sometimes with a Net, sometimes with a Ferret, and sometimes with a Lurcher or Tumbler. Among the several sorts of Harriers, there are some which are apt to hunt two divers Beasts, as the Fox sometimes, and otherwhiles the Hare; but they hunt not with that good success and towardness, who stick not to one sort of Game.

The Terrier hunteth the Fox and the Badger or Grey onely: And they are called Terriers, because they (after the manner and cusiom of Ferrets in searching. for Coneys) creep into the ground, and by that means affright, nip, and bite the Fox and the Badger, in such sort, that either they tear them in pieces with their Teeth, (being in the bosome of the Earth) or else hale and pull them by force out of their lurking Angles, dark Dungeons, and close Caves; or at the least, through conceived fear, drive them out of their hollow Harbours, insomuch, if they are not taken by Net or otherwise, they are compelled to prepare for [Page] flight; and being desirous of the next, though not the safest refuge, they are oft-times entrapped with Snares and Nets laid over Holes for the same purpose.

Of LEVINER or LYEMMER.

THe Leviner is singular in Smelling, and in Swiftness incomparable. This is as it where a middle kinde between the Harrier and the Grey-Hound, as well for his kinde, as the frame and shape of his Body. It is called in Latine Levinarius, à Levitate, of lightness, and therefore may well be called a Light-Hound. This Dog, for the excellency of his Conditions, namely, Smelling, and swift Running, doth follow the Game with more eagerness, and taketh the Prey with a jolly quickness.

Of the TUMBLER.

THe word Tumbler undoubtedly had its derivation from the French word Tumbier, which signifies to Tumble; to which the Latine name agrees, Vertagus, from Vertere to turn, and so they do: for in Hunting they turn and tumble, winding their Bodies about circularly, and then fiercely and violently venturing on the Beast, do suddenly gripe it at the very entrance or mouth of their Holes or Receptacles, before they can make any recovery of self-security.

This Dog useth another craft and subtilty, namely, [Page] when he runneth into a Warren, or fetcheth a course about a Coney-borough, he hunts not after them, he no ways affrights them, he shews no spight against them; but dissembling friendship, and pretending favour, passeth by with silence and quietness, marking their Holes diligently, wherein he seldom is deceived. When he cometh to a place where there is a certainty of Coneys, he coucheth down close with his Belly to the ground, provided always by his Skill and Policy that the Wind be against him in that Enterprize, and that the Coneys, discover him not where he lurketh; by which means he gets the benefit of the scent of the Coneys, which is carried to him by the Wind and Air, either going to their Holes, or coming out, either passing this way, or running that way; and so ordereth the business by his circumspection, that the silly Coney is debarred quite from his Hole, (which is the Haven of their hope, and the Harbour of their safety) and fraudulently circumvented and taken before they can get the advantage of their Holes. Thus having caught his Prey, he carrieth it speedily to his Master, waiting his Dogs return in some convenient lurking corner.

These Dogs are somewhat lesser than the Hounds being lanker, leaner, and somewhat prick-ear'd. By the form and fashion of their Bodies they may be justly called Mungrel-Grey-hounds, if they were somewhat bigger. But notwithstanding they countervail not the Grey-hound in greatness, yet will he take in one days space as many Coneys as shall arise to as big a burthen, and as heavy a load as a Horse can cary: For Craft and Subtilty are the Instruments whereby he maketh this spoil, which pernicious properties supply the places of more commendable qualities.

Let this suffice for a taste: now, after such Dogs as serve Hunting, will follow such as serve for Hawking [Page] and Fowling; among which, the principal and chiefest is the Spaniel, called in Latine Hispaniolus, borrowing his name from Hispania; wherein we English-men, not pronouncing the Aspiration H, nor the Vowel I, for quickness and readiness of speech, say, Spaniel.

Of the SPANIEL.

THere are two sorts of Dogs which necessarily serve for Fowling. The first findeth Game on the Land, the other on the Water. Such as delight on the Land, play their parts either by swiftness of foot, or by often questing to search out and to spring the Bird for further hope of reward, or else by some secret signe and privy token, discover the place where they fall. The first kinde of such serve the Hawk; the second, the Net or Train. The first kinde have no peculiar names assigned them, except they are named after the Bird which by natural appointment he is allotted to take; for which consideration, some are called Dogs for the Falcon, the Pheasant, the Partridge, and such-like: they are commonly called by one name, viz. Spaniels, as if they originally came from Spain.

The Spaniel, whose service is required in Fowling on the Water, partly through natural inclination, and partly by diligently teaching, is properly called Aquaticus, as Water-Spaniel, because he hath usual recourse to the Water, where all his Game lieth, namely, Water-fowl, which are taken by their help in their kind.

His size is somewhat big, and of a measurable greatness, having long, rough, and curled Hair, which [Page] must be clipt in due season: for by lessening that superfluity of Hair, they become more light and swist, and are less hindred in swimming. Ducks and Drakes are his principal Game; whereupon he is likewise named a Dog for a Duck, because in that quality he is excellent.

Of the WHITE-HOUND.

THose Hounds which are all of one colour, as all white, are the best Hounds; in like manner those which are spotted with red: but those which are spotted with a dun colour, are of little value, being fainthearted, and cannot endure much labour. But should they happen to be whelpt coal-black, which is but seldom, they commonly prove incomparable Hounds. But if white Hounds are spotted with black, experience tells us, they are never the best Hare-hunters. White, and black and white, and grey streak'd white, are also the most beautiful.

Of FALLOW-HOUNDS.

THey are hardy, and of good scent, keeping well their Chase without change; but not so swift as the white. They are of a strong constitution, and do not fear the Water; running surely, and are very hardy, commonly loving the Hart beyond any other Chase.

The best complexion for these Fallow-Hounds, is the [Page] lively red, and such as have a white spot in their Forehead, or have a Ring about their Neck: but those which are yellowish, and spotted with black or dun, are of little estimation. Those which are well joynted, having good Claws, are fit to make Blood-hounds: and those which have shagged Tails, are generally swift runners. These Hounds are fitter for Princes than private Gentlemen, because they seldom run more than one Chace; neither have they any great stomack to the Hare or other small Chases: and, which is worst of all, they are apt to run at tame Beasts.

Of the DUN-HOUND.

THese are good for all Chases, and therefore of general use. The best coloured are such as are dun on the Back, having their four quarters tann'd, or of the complexion of a Hare's Legs: But if the Hair on the Back be black, and their Legs freckled with red and black, they then usually prove excellent Hounds: and indeed there are few dun-coloured to be found bad; the worst of them are such whose Legs are of a whitish colour. It is wonderful, in these creatures, to observe how much they stick upon the knowledge of their Master, especially his Voice, and Horn, and none's else. Nay, farther, they know the distinct Voices of their Fellows, and do know who are Babblers and Liars, and who not; and will follow the one, and not the other.

Now for Hounds, the West-country, Cheshire, and Lancashire, with other Wood-land and Mountainous Countries, breed our Slow-hound; which is a large great Dog, tall and heavy. Worcester-shire, Bedford-shire, [Page] and many well-mixt soils, where the Champaign and Covert are of equal largeness, produce a middle-sized Dog, of a more nimble composure than the former. Lastly, the North-parts, as York-shire, Cumberland, Northumberland, and many other plain Champaign Countries, breed the Light, Nimble, Swift, Slender, Fleet Hound. After all these, the little Beagle is attributed to our Country; this is that Hound, which in Latine is called Canis Agasaeus, or the Gaze-hound. Besides our Mastiff, which seems to be an Indigena, or Native of England, we train up most excellent Grey-hounds (which seem to have been brought hither by the Galls) in our open Champaigns. All these Dogs have deserved to be famous in adjacent and remote Countries, whither they are sent for great rarities, and ambitiously sought for by their Lords and Princes; although onely the fighting Dogs seem to have been known to the antient Authors; and perhaps in that Age Hunting was not so much cultivated by our own Countreymen.

The marks of a good and fair Hound.

His Head ought to be of a middle proportion, rather long than round; his Nostrils wide; his Ears large; his Back bowed; the Fillets great; the Haunches large; the Thighs well trussed; the Ham straight; the Tail big near the Reins, and the rest slender to the end; the Leg big; the Soal of the Foot dry, and formed like a Fox's, with the Claws great.

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Of the Election of a Dog and Bitch for good Whelps.

Your Bitch must come of a good kind, being strong, and well proportioned in all parts, having her Ribs and Flanks great and large. Let the Dog that lines her be of a good fair breed; and let him be young, if you intend to have light and hot Hounds: for if the Dog be old, the Whelps will participate of his Dull and heavy nature.

If your Bitch grow not naturally Proud so soon as you would have, you may make her so, by taking two heads of Garlick, half a Gastor's Stone, the juice of Cresses, and about twelve Spanish Flies, or Cantharides: boil these together in a Pipkin which holds a pint, with some Mutton, and make Broth thereof; and of this give to the Bitch twice or thrice, and she will infallibly grow proud. The same Pottage given to the Dog, will make him desirous of copulation.

When your Bitch is lined, and with Puppy, you must not let her hunt, for that will be the way to make her cast her Whelps; but let her unconfined walk up and down in the House and Court, and never lock her up in her Kennel; for she is then impatient of food; and therefore you must make her some hot Broth once a day.

If you would spay your Bitch, it must be done before she ever had Litter of Whelps: And in spaying her, take not away all the Roots or Strings of the Veins; for if you do, it will much prejudice her Reins, and hinder her swiftness ever after: but by leaving some behinde, it will make her much the stronger and more hardy. Whatever you do, spay her not when she is proud; for that will endanger her life: but you may do [Page] it fifteen days after. But the best time of all is, when the Whelps are shaped within her.

How to enter young Hounds to Hunt the Hart; and what Quarries and Rewards you shall give them.

Having first taught your Hounds to know your Hallow, and the sound of your Horn, then, about eighteen months old, you must lead them once a Week into the fields, and not oftner.

The best manner to teach your Hounds, is to take a live Hare, and trail her after you upon the Earth now one way, now another; and so, having drawn i [...] a convenient space, hide it in the Earth: afterward se [...] forth your Hound near the Trail, who taking Wind runneth to and fro near the Woods, Fields, PAstures, Path-ways, and Hedges, until he find which way th [...] Hare is gone; but with a soft and gentle pace, until at length coming near the lodged Hare, he mendeth his pace, and bestirreth himself more speedily, leaping o [...] his Prey, and killing it, loadeth himself with his conquest and bringing it to his Master with Triumph, h [...] must receive both Dog and it with all tokens of love i [...] to his Bosom.

When you hunt, let your Hart be in prime of grea [...] for then he is heavier than in April or May, and cann [...] stand up so long.

Then chuse your Forest wherein the Relays are [...] equal proportion: then place all your young Houn [...] with five or fix old to enter them; and then lead the [...] to the farthest and last Relay, and cause the Hart to [...] hunted unto them. Being come up, uncouple your o [...] Hounds; and having found the Track of the Hart, bein [...] well entred in cry, uncouple likewise your young Hound [...] [Page] and if you find any of them lag behinde, you must beat or whip them forward.

In what place soever you kill the Hart, immediately flay his Neck, and reward your Hounds: for it is best whilst it is hot so to do.

There are several ways of entring Hounds. As first, by taking a Hart in Nets, and after you have cut off one of his Feet, let him go: a quarter of an hour after, assemble your young Hounds; and having found out the View or Slot of the Hart or Buck by your Bloodhounds, uncouple your young Hounds, and let them hunt. Secondly, you may bring them to quarry, by taking half a dozen Huntsmen, swift of foot, each whereof shall have two couple to lead in Liams; and having unlodg'd the Hart, pursue him fair and softly, so that you tire not too much your young Hounds. After the Hart hath ran two or three hours, and that you find he begins to sink, you may then cast off your young Hounds: but beware it be not when he is at Bay, and his Head full summed; for so you may endanger the lives of your Hounds.

But the best way of entring Hounds is at the Hare; for thereby they will learn all Doubles and Turns, better know the Hallow, will be more tender-nosed, and better scented, by using the beaten ways and Champion grounds.

Here note, that with whatsoever you first enter your Hounds, and therewith reward them, they will ever after love that most. Wherefore, if you intend them for the Hart, enter them not first with the Hinde. And for the better hunting the Hart, enter not your young Hounds within a Toil; for there a Hart doth nothing but turn and cast about, since he cannot run end-long, and so they are always in sight of him. If then afterwards you should run him at force out of a Toil, and at length, and out of sight, you will find the Hounds to give him over quickly.

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Lastly, enter not your Hounds nor teach them in the Morning; for if so, you will find them apt to give over in the heat of the day.

Of COURSING with Grey-Hounds.

I Need not declare the Excellencies which are contained in the noble and worthy Exercise of Coursing with Grey-hounds, since it is so well known to all Gentlemen who take delight in this pleasant and healthy Pastime: I shall therefore onely insist upon the breed of Grey-hounds, their Shape, their Diet, and the Laws belonging to the same, according as they were commanded, allowed, and subscribed by the Duke of Norfolk, in the Reign of Queen Elizabeth.

First, for the Breeding of Grey-Hounds, in this you must have respect to the Country, which should be Champain, Plain, or high Downs. The best Valleys are those of Belvoir, White-horse, and Evesholm, or any other where there are no Coverts, so that a Hare may stand forth and endure a Course of two or three miles: as for high Downs or Heaths, the best are about Marlborough, Salisbury, Cirencester, and Lincoln.

Though these places are very commodious for the breeding and training up of Grey-Hounds; yet, in my opinion, the middle, or most part arable grounds are the best: and yet those Gentlemen who dwell on Downs or plain grounds, to keep up the reputation of their own Dogs, affirm, that they are more nimble and cunning in turning than the Vale-Dogs are and Mr. Markham confesseth that he hath seen a Vale-Dog so much deceived, that upon a turn he hath [Page] lost more ground than hath been recoverable in the whole Course after: however, with a little care, in a short time this errour may be rectified; and then you will experimentally find The good Dogs upon the Deeps will ever beat the good Dogs upon the Plains.

It is a received opinion, that the Grey-hound-Bitch will beat the Grey-hound-Dog, by reason the excelleth him in nimbleness: but if you consider that the Dog is longer and stronger, you must look upon that opinion no more than as a vulgar errour.

Here note, as to the breeding of your Grey-hounds, that the best Dog upon an indifferent Bitch, will not get so good a Whelp as an indifferent Dog upon the best Bitch.

Observe this in general as to breeding, let your Dogs and Bitches, as near as you can, be of an equal age, not exceeding four years old: however, to breed with a young Dog and an old Bitch, may be the means of producing excellent Whelps, the goodness whereof you shall know by their Shapes in this manner.

If they are raw-bon'd, lean, loose-made, sickle or crooked-hough'd, and generally unknit in every Member; these are the proper marks of excellent shape and goodness: but if after three or four months they appear round and close-trust, fat, straight, and as it were full summed and knit in every Member, they never prove good, swift, nor comely.

The goodness of shape in a Grey-hound after a year and a half old, is this: his Head must be lean and long, with a sharp Nose, rush-grown from the Eye downward; a full clear Eye, with long Eye-lids; a sharp Ear, short and close falling; a long Neck a little bending, with a loose hanging Weasand; a broad Breast, straight Fore-legs, hollow Side, straight Ribs; a square slat Back, short and strong Fillets, a broad space between the Hips, a strong Stern or Tail, a round Foot, and good large Clefts.

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The Dieting of Grey-Hounds consists in these four things: Food, Exercise, Airing, and Kennelling.

Food of a Grey-hound is two fold: general, that is, the maintaining of a Dog in good bodily condition; and particular, when the Dog is dieted for a Wager, or it may be for some Distemper he is afflicted with.

A Grey-hound's general Food ought to be Chippings, Crusts of Bread, soft Bones and Gristles. Your Chippings ought to be scalded in Beef, Mutton, Veal or Venison-Broth; and when it is indifferent cool, then make your Bread onely float with good Milk, and give it your Grey-hounds Morning and Evening; and this will keep them in good state of body.

But if your Dog be poor, sickly, and weak, then take Sheeps-heads, Wool and all, clean wash'd, and having broken them to pieces, put them into a Pot; and when it boils, scum the Pot, and put therein good store of Oatmeal, and such Herbs as Pottage is usually made of; boil these till the Flesh be very tender: then with the Meat and Broth feed your Dogs Morning and Evening, and it will recover them.

If you designe your Grey-Hound for a Wager, then give him this Diet-bread: Take half a peck of the finest and driest Oat-meal, and a peck of good Wheat, having ground them together, boult the Meal, and scattering an indifferent quantity of Liquorish and Anniseeds well beaten together; knead it up with the Whites of Eggs, new Ale and Barm mix'd together, and bake it in small Loaves indifferent hard; then take it and soak it in Beef or any of the aforesaid Broths; and half an hour after Sun-rising, and half an hour before its setting, having first walke and air'd your Grey-hound, give it him to eat. This will not onely increase his strength, but enlarge his Wind.

Having thus spoken of a Grey-Hound's Feeding, [Page] either generally or particularly, either for keeping him in health, or restoring it when it is lost, I shall in the next place proceed to his Exercise; and this likewise consists in two things, that is, Coursing, and Airing.

As to the first, he ought to be Coursed thrice a week, in such manner that you usually reward him with Blood, which will animate and encourage him to prosecute his Game: but be not unmindful to give the Hare all just and lawful advantage, so that she may stand long before the Grey-hound, that thereby he may shew his utmost strength and skill before he reap the benefit of his labour.

If he kill, suffer him not to break the Hare, but take her from him; and having cleans'd his Chaps from the Wool of the Hare, then give him the Liver, Lights, and Heart, and so take him up in your Leash; and having led him home, wash his Feet with some Butter and Beer, and then put him into the Kennel, and feed him half an hour afterwards.

Upon your Grey-hounds Coursing-days, give him in the Morning before you air him, a Toast and Butter or Oyl, and nothing else; then Kennel him till he go to his Course.

The reason of Kennelling your Grey-hounds is this, because it breeds in Dogs Lust, Spirit, and Nimbleness; besides, it prevents several dangerous Casualties, and keeps the Pores from spending till time of necessity: and therefore do not permit your Dog to stir out of the Kennel but in the hours of Feeding, Walking, Coursing, or other necessary business.

The Laws of the Leash or Coursing.

Though the Laws of Coursing may alter according to some mens swaying Fancies; yet these, subscribed [Page] by the chief of the Gentry, were ever held authentical. Take them thus in order, according to my collection out of Mr. Markham.

First, it was ordered, that he who was chosen Fewterer, or Letter-loose of the Grey-hounds, should receive the Grey-hounds Match to run together into his Leash as soon as he came into the Field, and follow next to the Hare-finder till he came unto the Form: and no Horse-man or Foot-man, on pain of disgrace, to go before them, or on any side, but directly behinde, the space of forty yards or thereabouts.

2. That not above one Brace of Grey-hounds do course a Hare at one instant.

3. That the Hare-finder should give the Hare three Sohoe's before he put her from her Lear, to make the Grey-hounds gaze and attend her rising.

4. That the Fewterer shall give twelve-score Law ere he loose the Grey-hounds, except it be in danger of losing sight.

5. That Dog that giveth the first Turn, if after the Turn be given there be neither Coat, Slip, nor Wrench extraordinary; I say, he which gave the first Turn shall be held to win the Wager.

6. If one Dog give the first Turn, and the other bear the Hare, then he which bare the Hare shall win.

7. If one give both the first and last Turn, and no other advantage be between them, the odde Turn shall win the Wager.

8. That a Coat shall be more than two Turns, and a Go-by, or the Bearing of the Hare equal with two Turns.

9. If neither Dog turn the Hare, then he which leadeth last at the Covert shall be held to win the Wager.

10. If one Dog turn the Hare, serve himself, and [Page] turn her again, those two Turns shall be as much as a Coat.

11. If all the Course be equal, then he which bears the Hare shall win onely; and if she be not born, the Course must be adjudged dead.

12. If he which comes first in to the death of the Hare takes her up, and saves her from breaking, cherisheth the Dogs, and cleanseth their Mouths from the Wool, or other filth of the Hare, for such courtesie done he shall in right challenge the Hare: but not doing it, he shall have no Right, Priviledge, or Title therein.

13. If any Dog shall take a fall in the Course, and yet perform his part, he shall challenge the advantage of a Turn more than he giveth.

14. If one Dog turn the Hare, serve himself, and give divers Coats, yet in the end stand still in the field, the other Dog, without Turn giving, running home to the Covert; that Dog which stood still in the field shall be adjudged to lose the Wager.

15. If any man shall ride over a Dog, and overthrow him in his Course, (though the Dog were the worse Dog in opinion, yet) the party for the offence shall either receive the disgrace of the Field, or pay the Wager; for between the Parties it shall be adjudged no Course.

16. Lastly, those which are chosen Judges of the Leash shall give their judgments presently before they depart from the Field, or else he in whose default it lieth shall pay the Wager by a general Voice and Sentence.

Here note, that it lieth in the power of him that hath the Office of the Leash conferred on him, to make Laws according to the Customs of Countries, and the Rule of Reason.

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Of the Stiles of Hunting different from the English both Antique and Forrein.

THe Hunting used by the Antients was much like that way which is at present taken with the Rain-Deer, which is seldom hunted at force or with Hounds, but onely drawn after with a Blood-hound, and forestall'd with Nets and Engines. So did they with all Beasts, and therefore a Dog is never commended by them for opening before he hath by signes discovered where the Beast lieth in his Layre, as by their drawing stiff our Harbourers are brought to give right judgement. Therefore I do not finde that they were curious in the Musick of their Hounds, or in a composition of their Kennel or Pack, either for deepness, or loudness, or sweetness of cry like to ours. Their Huntsmen were accustomed to shout and make a great noise, as Virgil observes in the third of his Georgicks: ‘Ingentem clamore premes ad retia Cervum.’

So that it was onely with that confusion to bring the Deer to the Nets laid for him.

But we comfort our Hounds with loud and courageous Cries and Noises, both of Voice and Horn, that they may follow over the same way that they saw the Hart pass, without crossing or coasting.

The Sicilian way of Hunting was this: when the Nobles or Gentry were informed which way a Herd of Deer passed, giving notice to one another, they appointed a meeting, and every one brought with [Page] him a Cross-bow, or a Long bow, and a bundle of Staves. These Staves had an Iron-spike at the bottom, and their Head is bored, with a Cord drawn through all of them; their length is about four foot: Being thus provided, they come to the Herd, and there casting themselves about into a large Ring, they surround the Deer; and then every one of them receives a peculiar stand, and there, unbinding his Faggot, ties the end of his Cord to the other who is set in the next station; then to support it, sticks into the ground each Staff, about the distance of ten foot one from the other. Then they take out Feathers, which they bring with them, dyed in Crimson for this very purpose, and fastned upon a Thred which is tied to the Cord, so that with the least breath of wind they are whirled round about. Those which keep the several Stands, withdraw and hide themselves in the next Covert. After this, the chief Ranger enters within the Line, taking with him onely such Hounds which draw after the Herd; and coming near with their cry, rouze them: Upon which the Deer fly till they come towards the Line, where they turn off towards the left, and still gazing upon the shaking and shining Feathers, wander about them as if they were kept in with a Wall or Pale. The chief Ranger pursues, and calling to every one by name, as he passeth by their Stand, cries to them, that they shoot the first, third, or sixth, as he shall please; and if any of them miss, and single out any other than that which was assigned by the Ranger, it is counted a disgrace to him: by which means, as they pass by the several Stations, the whole Herd is killed by several hands. This Relation is of undoubted truth, as you may finde it in Pierius his Hieroglyphicks, Lib. 7. Chap. 6.

Boar-hunting is very usual in France, and they call it Sangtier. In this sort of Hunting the way is to [Page] use furious terrible Sounds and Noises, as well of Voice as Horn, to make the Chase turn and fly; because they are slow, and trust to their Tusks and defence: which is Agere Aprum, to bait the Boar. Yet this must be done after his Den or Hold is discovered, and the Nets be pitched.

The Huntsmen give judgement of the Wild-Boar by the print of his Foot, by his Rooting. A wild Swine roots deeper than our ordinary Hogs, because their Snouts are longer; and when he comes into a Cornfield, (as the Caledonian-Boar in Ovid) turns up one continued Furrow, not as our Hogs, routing here and there; and then by his soil he soils and wallows him in the myre: these are his Volutabra Silvestria, where his greatness is measured out; then coming forth, he rubs against some Tree, which marks his height; as also when he sticks his Tusk into it, that shews the greatness thereof. They observe the bigness of his Lesses, and the depth of his Den; where note, that they call his Dung by the name of Lesses.

Whensoever the Boar is hunted and stands at Bay, the Huntsmen ride in, and with Swords and Spears striking on that side which is from their Horses, wound or kill him. This is in the French Hunting: but the antient Romans standing on foot, or setting their Knees to the ground, and charging directly with their Spear, did Opponere ferrum, and Excipere Aprum: for such is the nature of a Boar, that he spits himself with fury, running upon the Weapon to come at his Adversary; and so, seeking his revenge, he meets with his own destruction.

Though these Wild-Boars are frequent in France, we have none in England; yet it may be supposed that heretofore we had, and did not think it convenient to preserve that Game: For our old Authors of Hunting reckon them amongst the beasts of Venery; and we [Page] have the proper terms belonging to them, as you may find them at the beginning of the Book. Of Boar-hunting you will read more hereafter.

There are no Roe-Deer in England; but there are plenty of them in Scotland, as Sir James Lindsay an old Scottish Writer testifies.

Yet it may be thought that they have been more common in England, because our antient Huntsmen acknowledge the proper terms for this Chase; and in the first place we have distinct Ages for these Dorces, which you shall find in the Terms aforesaid. They make good Chase, stand long, and fly end-way. Compellere Dorcas, is to force the Bevy; and to drive them into the Toyls.

Although we have no Wolves in England at this present, yet it is certain that heretofore we had Routs of them, as they have to this very day in Ireland; and in that Country are bred a race of Grey-hounds, (which are commonly called Wolf-Dogs) which are strong, fleet, and bear a natural enmity to the Wolf. Now in these the Grey-hounds of that Nation there is an incredible force and boldness, so that they are in great estimation, and much sought after in forrein parts, so that the King of Poland makes use of them in his hunting of great Beasts by force. Wherefore it may well be intended of the great fierceness which these Dogs have in assaulting, that when the Romans saw them play, they thought them so wonderful violent, as that they must needs have been Ferreis caveis advecti, brought up in Iron Dens.

In Poland when the King hunts, his servants are wont to surround a Wood, though a Mile in compass, with Toyls which are pitched on firm Stakes. This being done, the whole Town, all Sexes and Ages promiscuously rush into the Inclosure, and with their [...]oud shouts rear all the Beasts within that Wood; which [Page] making forth, are intercepted in the Nets. Their small and great Beasts are entangled together, after the same manner as when amongst us we draw a Net over a Pond, and after beating it all over with Poles, we bring out not onely Pike and Carp, but lesser Fry; so they inclose at once Deer, Boar, Roe-buck, and Hare: For so they order their Nets, that the space of those Meshes which are twisted with greater Cords, for the entangling of greater Beasts, that space, I say, is made up with smaller Whip-cord, for the catching smaller Prey.

He hath a great race of English Mastiffs, which in that Country retain their generosity, and are brought up to play upon greater beasts. It is not counted among them disagreeable to the Laws of the Chase, to use Guns. I shall now proceed to the manner of English-Hunting both antient and modern, according to the best information I could gather either out of Books, experienced Huntsmen, and my own practice.

Of Hart-Hunting.

A Hart can naturally swim a great way; insomuch that I have heard of some so sore hunted in Forests near the Sea, that they have plung'd into it, and have been killed by Fisher-men a dozen miles from land.

It is reported of them when they go to Rut, and must for that purpose cross some great River or Arm of the Sea, they assemble in great Herds, the strongest goes in first, and the next of strength follows him, and so one after the other, relieving themselves [Page] by staying their Heads on the Buttocks of each other.

The Hinde commonly carries her Calf eight or nine moneths, which usually falls in May, although some later: some of them have two at once, eating the Skin up wherein the Calf did lie.

As the Calf grows up, she teacheth it to run, leap, and the way it must keep to defend it self from the Hounds.

Harts and Hindes are very long-liv'd, living commonly an hundred years and upwards.

The nature of a Hart.

The Hart is strangely amazed when he hears any one call, or whistle in his Fist; For trial of which, some seeing a Hart in the Plain in motion, have called after him, saying, Ware, Ware, or Take heed; and thereupon have seen him instantly turn back, making some little stand. He heareth very perfectly when his Head and Ears are erected; but heareth imperfectly when he holdeth them down. When he is on foot, and not afraid, he wonders at every thing he seeth, and taketh pleasure to gaze at them.

They bear sometimes few, and sometimes more Croches; and that is the reason that many men have erred in their judgments as to their age.

Harts are bred in most Countries; but the Antients do prefer those of Britain before all others, where they are of divers colours.

These do excel all others in the beauty of Horns; which are very high, yet do not grow to their Bones or Scalps, but to their Skin, branching forth into many Speers, being solid throughout, and as hard as Stones, and fall off once a year: but if they remain abroad in the Air, and that thereby they are sometimes [Page] wet and dry, they grow as light as any vanishing or other substance, as I have proved by experience, finding some which have been lost by them in the Woods; wherefore I gather, that they are of an earthly substance, concrete, and hardned with a strong heat, made like unto Bones. They lose these Horns every year in the Spring. At one year old they have nothing but Bunches, that are small significators of Horns to come: at two years they appear more perfectly, but straight and simple: at three years they grow into two Spears: at four, into three; and so increase every year in their Branches till they be six; and above that time their age is not certainly to be discerned by their Head.

Having lost their Horns in the day-time, they hide themselves, inhabiting the shades, to avoid the annoyance of Flies, and feed, during that time onely, in the night. Their new Horns come out at first like Bunches, and afterwards (as I said before) by the increase of the Sun's heat they grow more hard, covered with a rough Skin, which is called a Velvethead; and as that Skin drieth, they daily try the strength of their new Heads upon Trees; which not onely scrapeth off the roughness, but by the pain they feel thus rubbing them, they are taught how long to forbear the company of their fellows: for at last, when in their chafing and fretting of their new Horn against the Tree they can feel no longer pain and smart in them, they take it for high time to forsake their solitary dwellings, and return again to their former condition.

The reason why Harts and Deers do lose their Horns yearly, are these: First, because of the matter whereof they consist; for it is dry and earthy, like the substance of green Leaves which have an yearly fall, likewise, wanting glewing or holding moisture [Page] to continue them; wherefore the Horn of a Hart cannot be bent. Secondly, from the place they grow upon; for they are not rooted upon the Skull, but onely within the Skin. Thirdly, from the efficient cause; for they are hardned both with the heat of Summer, and cold of Winter; by means whereof the Pores to receive their nourishing Liquor are utterly shut up and stopped, so as of necessity their native heat dieth; which falleth not out in other Beasts, whose Horns are for the most part hollow, and fitted for longer continuance; but these are of lesser, and the new Bunches swelling up towards the Spring, do thrust off the old Horns, having the assistance of Boughs of Trees, weight of the Horns, or by the willing excussion of the Beast that beareth them.

It is observed, that when a Hart pricketh up his Ears, he windeth sharp, very far, and sure, and discovereth all treachery against him; but if they hang down and wag, he perceiveth no danger. By their Teeth is their Age discerned, and they have four on both sides wherewith they grinde their meat, besides two other, much greater in the Male than in the Female. All these Beasts have Worms in their Head underneath their Tongue, in a hollow place where the Neck-bone is joyned to the Head, which are no bigger than Flie-blows. His Blood is not like other Beasts, for it hath no Fibres in it, and therefore it is hardly congealed. His Heart is very great, and so are all those of fearful Beasts, having in it a Bone like a Cross. He hath no Gall, and that is one of the causes of the length of his life; and therefore are his Bowels so bitter, that the Dogs will not touch them unless they be very fat. The Genital part is all nervy; the Tail small; and the Hinde hath Udders betwixt her Thighs, with four Speans like a Gow. These are above all other four-footed Beasts, both [Page] ingenious and fearful, who although they have large Horns, yet their defence against other four-footed Beasts is to run away.

And now if you will credit Gesner as a Huntsman, pray here observe what account he gives of Hunting the Hart: This wild deceitful and subtile Beást (says he) by windings and turnings does often deceive its Hunter, as the Harts of Meandros flying from the terrible cry of Diana's Hounds. Wherefore the prudent Hunter must frame his Dogs as Pythagoras did his Scholars, with words of Art to set them on, and take them off again at his pleasure; wherefore he must first of all compass in the Beast (en son giste) in her own Layr, and so unharbour her in the view of the Dogs, that so they may never lose her Slot or Footing: neither must he set upon every one, either of the Herd or those that wander solitary alone, or a little one but partly by sight, and partly by their Footing and Fumets, judge of their Game; also he must observe the largeness of his Layr. Being thus informed, then Discouples les chiens, take off your Dog-Couplings; and some on Horse-back, others on foot, follow the Cry with greatest art, observation and speed, remembring and preventing (cer fruze) the subtile turnings and headings of the Hart; straining with all dexterity to leap Hedge, Pale, Ditch, nay Rocks; neither fearing Thorns, down Hills, nor Woods, but providing fresh Horse if the first tire, follow the largest Head of the whole Herd, which you must endeavour to single out for the Chase; which the Dogs perceiving must follow, taking for a prohibition to follow any other.

The Dogs are animated by the winding of Horns and voices of the Huntsmen, like Souldiers to the battle, by the noise of Trumpets and other Warlike Instruments. But sometimes the crafty great beast seodeth [Page] forth his little Squire to be sacrificed to the Dogs and Huntsmen, instead of himself; lying close in the mean time: Then must a Retreat be sounded, and (rompre le chiens) the Dogs be broken off, and taken in (le Limier) that is, Leame again, until they be brought to the fairer Game; who ariseth in fear, yet still striveth by flight, until he be wearied and breathless.

The Nobles call this beast (Cerf sage) a wise Hart, who, to avoid all his Enemies, runneth into the greatest Herds, and so bringeth a Cloud of errour on the Dogs, to keep them from further prosecution; sometimes also beating some of the Herd into his Footings, that so he may the more easily escape, and procure a Labyrinth to the Dogs; after which he betaketh himself to his Heels again, running still with the Wind, not onely for refrigeration, but because he may the more easily hear the voice of his pursuers, whether they be far or near. At last, being for all this found out again by the observance of the Hunters, and skilful Scent of the Dogs, he flieth into the Herds of Cattle, as Cows, Sheep, &c. leaping on an Ox or Cow, laying the foreparts of his body thereon, that so touching the Earth onely with his hinder Feet, to leave a very small or no scent at all behinde for the Hounds to descern.

The chief Huntsman to Lewis the twelfth, called (le Grand Venieur) affirmeth, that on a time, they having a Hart in chase, suddenly the Hounds were at a fault, so as the Game was out of sight, and not a Dog would once stir his foot, whereat the Hunters were all amazed; at last, by casting about, (as it is usual in such cases) they found the fraud of the crafty beast, which is worth the memory.

There was a great White-thorn, which grew in a hadowy place as high as a Tree, and was environed with other small shrubs about it; into the which the said [Page] Hart leaped, and there stood aloft the Boughs spreading from one another, and there remained till he was thrust through by a Huntsman, rather than he would yield to the angry and greedy Hounds. Yet their manner is when they see themselves every where intercepted, to make force at him with their Horns who first comes unto him, except prevented by Sword or Spear; which being done, the Hunter with his Horn windeth the fall of the Beast, and then every one approacheth, luring with triumph for such a conquest, of whom the skilfullest openeth the Beast, rewarding the Hounds with what properly belongeth unto them for their future encouragement; and for that purpose the Huntsmen dip Bread in the Skin and Blood of the Beast, to give unto the Hounds their full satisfaction.

Veloces Spartae catulos, acrem (que) Mollossum

Pasce fero pingui, &c.

Much more might be said of this present subject, which is not proper in this place; wherefore I shall refer you to what followeth, and your own experience.

Of the Rut of Harts.

The time of their Rutting is about the midst of September, and continues two months: the older they are, the hotter, and the better beloved by the Hindes; and therefore they go to Rut before the young ones; and, being very fiery, will not suffer any of them to come near the Hindes till they have satisfied their Venery. But the young ones are even with the old for when they perceive the old are grown weak by excess of Rutting, the young will frequently attaqu [...] [Page] them, and make them quit the place, that they may be masters of the sport.

They are easily kill'd in Rutting-time: for they follow the scent of the Hindes with such greediness, laying their Noses to the ground, that they mind that solely, and nothing else.

They are such great lovers of the sport, it is very dangerous for any man to come near them at this season, for then they will make at any living creature of different kind.

In some places, in October their Lust ariseth, and also in May; and then, whereas at other times the Males live apart from the Females, they go about like lascivious Lovers, seeking the company of their Females, as it were at the Market of Venus.

The Males in their raging desired Lust have a peculiar noise, which the French call Reere. One Male will cover a many Females, continuing in this carnal appetite a month or two. The Females are chaste, and unwilling to admit of Copulation, by reason of the rigour of the Male's Genital; and therefore they sink down on their buttocks when they begin to feel his Seed, as it hath been often observed in tame Harts; and if they can, the Females run away, the Males striving to hold them back within their fore-Feet. It cannot be well said, that they are covered standing, lying, or going, but rather running; for so are they filled with greatest severity. When one month or six weeks is over of their Rutting, they grow tamer by much, and laying aside all fierceness, they return to their solitary places, digging every one by himself a several Hole or Ditch, wherein they lie, to asswage the strong savour of their Lust; for they stink like Goats, and their Face beginneth to look blacker than at other times: and in those places they live till some Showers distil from the Clouds; after which, they return to their Pasture again, living in Flocks as before.

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The Female, thus filled, never keepeth company again with the Male until she is delivered of her burthen, which is eight months; and but one at a time, seldom two, which she lodgeth cunningly in some Covert: If she perceive them stubborn and wilde, she will beat them with her Feet till they lie close and quiet.

Oftentimes she leadeth forth her young, teaching it to run and leap over bushes, stones, and small shrubs; and so continueth all the Summer long, while their own strength is most considerable.

It is very pleasant to observe them when they go to Rut, and make their Vaut. For when they smell the Hinde, they raise their Nose up into the Air, looking aloft, as though they gave thanks to the God of Nature, who gave them so great delight and pleasure. And if it be a great Hart, he will turn his Head and look about to see whether there be none near to interrupt or spoil his sport. Hereat the young fly away for fear: but if there be any of equal bigness, they then strive which shall Vaut first; and in the opposing each other, they scrape the ground with their Feet, shocking and butting each other so furiously, that you shall hear the noise they make with their Horns a good half mile, so long, till one of them is Victor. The Hinde beholding this Pastime, never stirs from her station, expecting, as it were, the Vauting of him who hath the Mastery; and having got it, he bellows, and then instantly covers her.

During the time of their Rut, they eat but very little; for they feed onely on what they see before them, minding more the track of the Hindes. Their chief meat is the red Mushrome, which helps them to evacuate their Grease: they are then extraordinary hot, insomuch, that every where as they pass and find waters, they tumble and lie therein.

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The time of Harts Mewing, or Casting the Head.

The old Hart casteth his Head sooner than the young: and the time is about the months of February and March.

Here note, that if you geld an Hart before he hath an Head, he will never bear any; and if you geld him when he hath it, he will never after Mew or cast it: and so, if you geld him when he hath a Velvethead, it will ever be so, without fraying or burnishing.

Having cast their Heads, they instantly withdraw unto the Thickets, hiding themselves in such convenient places where they may have good Water, and strong Feeding, near some ground where Wheat or Pease is sown: But young Harts do never betake themselves to the Thickets till they have born their third Head, which is in the fourth year.

After they have Mewed, they will begin to Button in March and April; and as the Sun grows strong, and the season of the year puts forward the Crop of the Earth, so will their Heads increase in all respects: so that in the midst of June their Heads will be summed as much as they will bear all the year.

Of the Coats and Colour of Harts.

The Coats of Harts are of three sundry sorts, Brown, Red, and Fallow; and of every of these Coats there proceeds two sorts of Harts, the one are great, the other little.

Of brown Harts, there are some great, long, and hairy, bearing a high Head, red of colour, and well [Page] beam'd, who will stand before Hounds very long, being longer of breath, and swifter of foot than those of a shorter stature.

There are another sort of brown Harts, which are little, short, and well-set, bearing commonly a black Main, and are fatter and better Venison than the former, by reason of their better feeding in young Copses.

They are very crafty, especially when in grease; and will be hardly found, because they known they are then most enquired after: besides, they are very sensible they cannot then stand long before the Hounds. If they be old, and feed in good ground, then are their Heads black, fair, and well branched, and commonly palmed at the top.

The Fallow-Harts bear their Heads high, and of a whitish colour, their Beams small, their Antliers long, slender, and ill-grown, having neither Heart, Courage, nor Force. But those which are of a lively Red-fallow, having a black or brown List down the Ridge of the Back, are strong, bearing fair and high Heads, well furnished and beam'd.

Of the Heads and Branches of Hearts, and their diversities.

As there are several sorts of Harts, so have they their Heads in a divers sort and manner, according to their Age, Country, Rest, and Feeding. Here note, that they bear not their first Head, which we call Broches, and in a Fallow-Deer Pricks, until they enter the second year of their Age. In the third year they bear four, six, or eight small Branches: At the fourth, they bear eight or ten: at the fifth, ten or twelve: at six, fourteen or sixteen: and at the seventh year they bear their Heads Beam'd, Branched, and Summed with as much as ever they will bear, and do never multiply but in greatness onely.

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How to know an old Hart by the Slot, Entries, Abatures and Foils, Fewmets, Gate and Walks, Fraying-Stocks, Head and Branches.

I shall proceed in order, and first of the Slot. You must carefully look on the Treadings of the Hart's Foot: If you find the Treadings of two, the one long, the other round, yet both of one bigness; yet shall the long Slot declare the Hart to be much larger than the round.

Moreover, the old Hart's hind-foot doth never overreach the fore-foot; the young one's doth.

But above all, take this Observation: When you are in the Wood, and have found the Slot of a Hart, mark what manner of Footing it is, whether worn, or sharp; and accordingly observe the Country, and thereby judge whether either may be occasioned thereby. For Harts bred in mountainous and stony Countries, have their Toes and sides of their Feet Worn, by reason of their continual climbing and resting themselves thereon, and not on the Heel: whereas in other places they stay themselves more on the Heel than Toes: For in soft or sandy ground they slip upon the Heel, by reason of their weight; and thus by frequent staying themselves thereon, it makes the Heel grow broader and greater. And thus you may know the age of a Hart by his Slot or Treading.

The next thing to be considered, is the Fewmishing; and this is to be judged of in April or May. If the Fewmets be great, large, and thick, they signifie the Hart to be old.

In the midst of June and July, they make their Fewmets or Fewmishing in great Croteys, very soft; and from that time to the end of August, they make them great, long, knotty, anointed and gilded, letting [Page] them fall but few and scattered. In September and October there is no longer judging, by reason of the Rut.

Thirdly, If you would know the height and thickness of the Hart, observe his Entries and Galleries into the Thickets, and what Boughs he hath over-stridden, and mark from thence the height of his Belly from the ground.

By the height of the Entries, we judge the age of a Hart: for a young Deer is such as creeps usually; but the old is stiff and stately.

His greatness is known by the height of his creeping as he passes to his Harbour; the young Deer creeping low, which the old will not stoop to.

Fourthly, Take notice of his Gate, by which you may know whether the Hart be great and long, and whether he will stand long before the Hounds or not. For all Harts which have a long step will stand up very long, being swift, light, and well breath'd; but if he leave a great Slot, which is the signe of an old Deer, he will never stand long when he is chased.

Lastly, Take notice of his Fraying-post: Where note, the elder the Hart is, the sooner he goeth to Fray, and the greater is the Tree he seeketh to Fray upon, and such as he cannot bend with his Head.

All Stags as they are burnish'd, beat their Heads dry against some Tree or other, which is called their Fraying-post: The younger Deer against weaker and lesser Trees, and lower; the elder against bigger and stronger, and Fray higher; so that accordingly we confidently judge of their age, and of the nearness of their Harbour; for that is the last Ceremony they use before they enter it.

As to the Head and Branches, the Hart is old, First, when the compass of the Bur is large, great, and well pearl'd.

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Secondly, when the Beam is great, burnished, and well pearl'd, being straight, and not made crooked by the Antliers.

Thirdly, when the Gutters therein are great and deep.

Fourthly, when the first Antlier, called Antoiller, is great, long, and near to the Bur; the Surantlier near unto the Antlier: and they ought to be both well pearl'd.

Fifthly, The rest of the Branches which are higher, being well ordered and set, and well grown, according to the bigness and proportion of the Head; and the Croches, Palm or Crown being great and large according to the bigness of the Beam, are the signes of an old Hart.

Now since many men cannot understand the names and diversities of Heads according to the Terms of Hunting, I shall in the following Chapter give you a brief account thereof.

The Names and diversities of Heads, according to Hunting-Terms.

The thing that beareth the Antliers, Royals, and Tops, is called the Beam; and the little streaks therein are called Gutters.

That which is about the Crust of the Beam, is termed Pearls: and that which is about the Bur it self, formed like little Pearls, is called Pearls bigger than the rest.

The Bur is next the Head; and that which is about the Bur, is called Pearls. The first is called Antlier; the second, Surantlier: All the rest which grow afterwards, until you come to the Crown, Palm, or Croche, are called Rovals, and Sur-royals: The little Buds or Broches about the Top, are called Croches.

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Their Heads go by several Names: The first Head is called a Crowned Top, because the Croches are ranged in form of a Crown.

The second is called a Palmed Top, because the Croches are formed like a mans Hand.

Thirdly, all Heads which bear not above three or four, the Croches being placed aloft, all of one height, in form of a cluster of Nuts, are to be called Heads of so many Croches.

Fourthly, all Heads which bear two in the Top, or having their Croches doubling, are to be called Forked Heads.

Fifthly, all Heads which have double Burs, or the Antliers, Royals, and Croches turned downwards, contrary to other Heads, are onely called Heads.

How to seek a Hart in his Haunts or Feeding-places according to the seasons of the year.

All Harts do change their manner of Feeding every month; and therefore I shall treat orderly of every one till I have concluded the year; beginning with that month which is the conclusion of their Rutting-time, and that is November, in which month they feed in Heaths and Broomy places.

In December they Herd together, and withdraw themselves into the strength of the Forests, to shelter themselves from the cold Winds, Snows, and Frosts, and do feed on the Holm-trees, Elder-trees, Brambles, with whatsoever other green thing they can find; and if it snow, they will skin the Trees like a Goat.

In January, February, and March, they leave Herdding, but will keep four or five in company, and in the corners of the Forest will feed on the Winter-pasture; sometimes making their incursions into the neighbouring Corn-Fields, if they can perceive the [Page] blades of Wheat, Rie, or such-like, appear above ground.

In April and May they rest in their Thickets, and other bushy and shady places, during that season, and stir very little till Rutting-time, unless they are disturb'd.

There are some Hearts are so cunning, that they will have two several Layrs to harbour in, a good distance one from the other; and will frequently change (for their greater security) from the one to the other, taking still the benefit of the Wind.

In these months they go not to the Soil, by reason of the moisture of the Spring, and the Dew that continually overspreadeth the Grass.

In June, July, and August, they are in their pride of grease, and do resort to Spring-Copses, and Cornfields; onely they seldom go where Rye or Barley grow.

In September and October they leave their Thickets and go to Rut; during which season they have no certain place either for food or harbour.

In what manner the Huntsman shall go drawing in the Springs.

Let him not come too early into the Springs or Hewts where he thinketh the Hart feedeth, and is at relief. For they usually go to their Layrs in the Springs; and if they be old crafty Deer, they will return to the border of the Copse, and there listen whether they can hear any approaching danger: and if they chance once to vent the Huntsman or the Hound, they will instantly dislodge.

Now is the Huntsman's proper time. Let him beat the outsides of the Springs or Thickets: if he find the Track of an Hart or Deer, let him observe [Page] whether it be new; which he may know thus; the Dew will be beaten off, the Foil fresh, or the ground broken or printed, with other tokens: so he may judge his Game lately went that way.

Having found this Slot or Treading, and the Hound sticking well upon it, let him hold him short, for he shall better draw being so held, than if he were let at length of the Lyam: and thus let him draw till he is come to the Covert, if possible, taking notice by the way of the Slot, Foils, Entries, and the like, till he hath harboured him. That done, let him plash down small Twigs, some above, and some below, as he shall think fit: and then, whilst the Hound is hot, let him beat the outsides, and make his Ring-walks twice or thrice about the Wood, one while by the great and open ways, that he may help himself by the Eye; another while through the thick and Covert, for fear lest his Hound should overshoot it, having still better Scent in the Coverts than High-ways.

If he doubt the Hart is gone out of the Ring-walks, or fears he hath drawn amiss; then let him go to the marks which he plashed, and draw counter, till he may take up the Fewmet.

The directions for Harbouring a Stag are these:

The Harbourer having taught his Hound to draw mute always round the outside of the Covert, as soon as his Hound challenges, which he knows by his eager flourishing, and straining his Lyam, he then is to seek for his Slot: If he findes the Heel thick, and the Toe spreading broad, it argues an old Deer, especially if it is fringed, (that is, broken on the sides.) However, if the ground be too hard to make any judgment from the Slot, he is to draw into the Covert, as he passes observing the size of the Entries; the larger [Page] and higher, the elder the Deer; as also his Croppings of the Tenders as he passes: (the younger the Deer, the lower; the elder the Deer, the higher he branches.) Also observe his Fewmishings as you pass, whose largeness bespeak the largeness of the Deer; also be curious in observing his Fraying-post, which usually is the last opportunity you have to judge by, the eldest Deer Fraying highest against the biggest Trees; and that found, you may conclude his Harbour not far off; therefore draw with more circumspection, checking your Draught-hound to secure him from spending when he comes so near as to have the Deer in the Wind: and then by his eagerness you having discovered that, ought to draw him; and having retired some distance back, you are with your Hound to round the place first at a considerable distance; and then, if you find him not disturbed, a little within that make your second round; which will not onely secure you that he is in his Harbour, but will also secure his continuance there; for he will not (unforc'd) pass that Taint your Hound hath left in the rounding of him. So that having broken a bough for his direction, he may at any time unharbour that Hart.

How to find a Hart lost the night before.

A Huntsman may fail of killing a Hart divers ways; sometimes by reason of great heat, or overtaken with the night, and the like. If any such thing should happen, then thus you must do. First, they which follow the Hounds, must mark the place where they left the Chase, and at break of day bring your Blood-hound to it with your Kennel after him. If any hound vents, whom he knows to be no Lier or Babler, he shall put his Hound to it, whooping twice, or blowing two Notes with his Horn, to call all his fellows [Page] about him: and if he find where the Hart is gone into some likely Govert or Grove, then must he draw his Hounds about it, and beat cross through it. And if there he renews his Slot or View, let him first consider whether it be the right or not: if it be the right, let him blow his Horn. Now if he find five or six Layrs, let it not seem strange; for Harts hunted and spent, do frequently make many Layrs together, because they cannot stand, but lie and feed.

Harts which are hunted, most commonly run up the Wind, and straight forwards as far as they are able, and finding any Water or Soil, do stay a long time therein; by which means their Joynts are so benummed and stiffned, that coming out they cannot go far, nor stand up long; and therefore are compelled to take any Harbour they can finde, which may be a present Covert to them.

How to find a Hart in high Woods.

In the seeking of a Hart in high Woods, regard must be had to two things; that is, the Thickets of the Forest, and the Season.

If it be in very hot weather, Gnats, Horse-flies, and such-like, drive the Deer out of the high Wood, and they disperse themselves into small Groves and Thickets near places of good feeding. According to the Coverts which are in the Forest, so accordingly the Huntsman must make his enquiry. For sometimes the Harts lie in the Tufts of White-thorn; sometimes under little Trees; otherwhiles under great Trees in the high Woods; and sometimes in the Skirts of the Forest under the shelter of little Groves and Copses. And therefore the Huntsman must make his Ring-walk great or small, according to the largeness of those Harbours or Goverts.

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How to Unharbour a Hart, and cast off the Hounds.

When the Relays are well set and placed, let the Huntsman with his Pole walk before the Kennel of Hounds: Being come to the Blemishes, let him take notice of the Slot, and such other marks as may be observed from the View of the Deer, to the intent he may know whether the Hounds run Riot or not. Then let the Huntsmen cast abroad about the Covert, to discover the Hart when he is unharboured, the better to distinguish him by his Head or otherwise. The Huntsman having unharboured him, all the Hounds shall be cast off, they crying one and all, To him, to him; That's he, that's he, with such words of encouragement.

If the Blood-hound as he draweth chance to overshoot, and draw wrong or counter, then must the Huntsman draw him back, and say, Back, back, Soft, soft, until he hath set him right again: and if he perceive that the Hound hath mended his fault, by his kneeling down, and observing the Slot or Ports, he must then cherish him, by clapping him on the Back, and giving him some encouraging words. Thus let him draw on with his Hound till the Deer be descried.

Now some are so cunning and crafty, that when they are unharboured from their Layr, they will coast round about to finde some other Deer, whereby the Hounds may be confounded in the change of hunts.

If the Huntsman have the Hart in view, let him still draw upon the Slot, blowing and hollowing until the Hounds are come in. When he seeth they are in full cry, and take it right, he may then mount, keeping under the Wind, and coast to cross the Hounds that are in chase, to help them at default, if need require.

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What subtilties are used in Hunting a Hart at force.

Let the Huntsman never come nearer the Hounds in cry, than fifty or threescore paces, especially at the first uncoupling, or at casting off their Relays. For if a Hart make Doublings, or wheel about, or cross before the Hounds, as he seldom doth; if then you come in too hastily, you will spoil the Slot or View; and so the Hounds, for want of Scent, will be apt to overshoot the Chase: but if after hunting an hour, the Huntsman perceive that the Hart makes out end-ways before the Hounds, and that they follow in full cry, taking it right, then he may come in nearer, and blow a Recheat to the Hounds to encourage them. Hereupon the Hart will frequently seek other Deer at Layr, and rouze them, on purpose to make the Hounds hunt change, and will lie down flat in some of their Layrs upon his Belly, and so let the Hounds over-shoot him: and because they shall neither scent or vent him, he will gather up all his four Feet under his Belly, and will blow and breath on some moist place of the ground, in such sort, that I have seen the Hounds pass by such a Hart within a yard, and never vent him.

For which cause Huntsmen should blemish at such places they see the Hart enter into a Thicket, to this end, that if the Hounds should fall to change, they may return to those Blemishes, and put their Hounds to the right Slot and View, until they have rouzed or found him again.

The Hart hath another way to bring the Hounds to change; and that is, when he seeth himself closely pursued, and that he cannot shun them, he will break into one Thicket after another to finde Deer, rouzing and herding with them, continuing so to do sometimes above an hour before he will part from them, or [Page] break Herd. Finding himself spent, he will break herd, and fall a doubling and crossing in some hard High-way that is much beaten, or else in some River or Brook, in which he will keep as long as his breath will permit him: and if he be far before the Hounds, it may be then he will use his former device, in gathering his Legs up under his belly as he lies flat along upon some hard and dry place. Sometimes he will take soil, and so cover himself under the water, that you shall perceive nothing but his Nose.

In this case the Huntsman must have a special regard to his old Hounds, who will hunt leisurely and fearfully; whereas the young Hounds will over-shoot their Game.

If it so chance that the Hounds are at a default, and hunt in several companies, then it may be guessed that the Hart hath broken herd from the fresh Deer, and that the fresh Deer have separated themselves also: then regard how the old Staunch-hounds make it, and observe the Slot; and where you see any of the old Hounds challenge, cherish and encourage him, hastening the rest in to him, by crying Hark to such a Hound, calling him by his Name.

Here is to be noted, that they cannot make it so good in the hard High-ways as in other places, because they cannot have there so perfect a scent, either by reason of the Tracks or Footing of divers sorts of beasts, or by reason of the Sun drying up the moisture, so that the dust covereth the Slot: now in such places (such is the natural subtilty of that beast for self-preservation) the Hart will make many Corsses and Doublings, holding them long together, to make the Hounds give over the Chase.

In this case, the first care of the Huntsman is, to make good the Head, and then draw round apace, first down the Wind, though usually Deer go up the Wind: [Page] and if the way is too hard to Slot, be sure to try far enough back. This expert Hounds will frequently do of themselves.

But if a Hart break out into the Champion-country, and that it be in the heat of the day, between Noon and three of the clock; then if the Huntsman perceive his Hounds out of breath, he must not force them much, but comfort them; and though they do not call upon the Slot or View, yet it is sufficient if they but wag their Tails; for, being almost spent, it is painful for them to call.

The last Refuge of a Hart sorely hunted is the Water, (which, according to Art, is termed the Soil) swimming oftnest down the Stream, keeping the middle, fearing lest by touching any bough by the Water-side he may give scent unto the Hounds.

Always when you come to a Soil, (according to the old Rule: He that will his Chase finde, let him first try up the River, and down the Wind) be sure if your Hounds challenge but a yard above his going in, that he is gone up the River: for though he should keep the very middle of the Stream, yet will that, with the help of the Wind, lodge part of the Stream, and Imbosh that comes from him on the Banks, it may be a quarter of a mile lower, which hath deceived many. Therefore first try up the Stream: and where a Den first breasts soil, both Man and Hound will best perceive it.

Now the ways to know when a Hart is spent, are these: First, He will run stiff, high, and lompering. Secondly, If his Mouth be black and dry without any Foam upon it, and his Tongue hanging out; but they will often close their Mouths, to deceive the Spectators. Thirdly, By his Slot: for oftentimes he will close his Claws together, as if he went at leisure; and straightway again open them wide, making great [Page] glidings, and hitting his Dew-claws upon the ground, following the beaten Paths without Doublings; and sometimes going all along by a Ditch-side, seeking some Gap, having not strength to leap it otherways: yet it hath been often seen, that Dead-run Deer have taken very great leaps.

Thus must a Huntsman govern himself according to the subtlety and Craft of the Deer, observing their Doublings and Crossings, and the places where they are made; making his Rings little or great, according to the nature of the place, time, and season: For Hounds are subject to shoot where Herbs and Flowers have their most lively scent and odoriferous smell. Neither must you be unmindful of the perfection and imperfection of your Hounds. Thus doing, it will be very hard luck if you loose a Hart by default.

How to kill a Hart at Bay.

It is very dangerous to go in to a Hart at Bay, and especially at Rutting-time; for then they are most fierce.

There are two sorts of Bays; one on the Land, the other on the Water. If now the Hart be in a deep Water, where you cannot well come to him, then couple up your Dogs; for should they long continue in the Water, it would endanger surbating or foundering. Get then a Boat, or swim to him with a Dagger; or else with a Rope that hath a Noose, and throw it over his Horns: for if the Water be so deep that the Hart swims, there is no danger in approaching him; otherwise you must have a care.

As to the Land-bay, if the Hart be burnished, then must you consider the place: For if it be in a plain and open place, where there is no Wood nor Covert, it is dangerous and hard to come in to him; but if [Page] it be in a Hedge-side or thicket, then, whilst the Hart is staring on the Hounds, you may come covertly among the bushes behinde him, and cut his Throat. If you miss your aim, and the Hart turn head upon you, then make some Tree your refuge; or when the Hart is at Bay, couple up your Hounds; and when you see the Hart turn head to fly, gallop in roundly to him, and kill him with your Sword.

Directions at the Death of Buck or Hart.

The first Ceremony when the Huntsmen come in to the Death of a Deer, is to cry Ware Haunch, that the Hounds may not break into the Deer; which having secured, the next is cutting his Throat, and there blooding the youngest Hounds, that they may the better love a Deer, and learn to leap at his Throat; then, having blown the Mort, and all the company come in, the best person, that hath not taken Say before, is to take up the Knife that the Keeper or Huntsman is to lay cross the Belly of the Deer, standing close to the left Shoulder of the Deer, some holding by the Fore-legs, and the Keeper or Huntsman drawing down the Pizle, the person that takes Say, is to draw the edge of the Knife leisurely along the very middle of the Belly, beginning near the Brisket; and drawing a little upon it, enough in the length and depth to discover how fat the Deer is, then he that is to break up the Deer first slits the Skin from the cutting of the Throat downward, making the Arber, that so the Ordure may not break forth; and then he is to pounch him, rewarding the Hounds therewith. Next, he is to present the same person that took the Say with a drawn Hanger, to cut off the Head; which done, and the Hounds rewarded therewith, the concluding Ceremony is, if a Buck a double, if a Stag a treble [Page] Mort blown by one, and then a whole Recheat in Consort by all that have Horns; and that finished, immediately a general Whoo whoop.

It was formerly termed, Winde a Horn, because (as I suppose) all Horns were then compassed; but since straight Horns are come into fashion, we say, Blow a Horn, and sometimes, Sound a Horn.

In many cases heretofore, Leasing was observed; that is, one must be held, either cross a Saddle, or on a mans back, and with a pair of Dog-couples receive ten pound and a Purse; that is, ten stripes, (according to the nature of the Crime, more or less severe) and an eleventh, that used to be as bad as the other ten, called a Purse.

There are many Faults, as coming to late into the Field, mistaking any term of Art; these are of the lesser size: of the greater magnitude, hallowing a wrong Deer, or leaving the Field before the death of the Deer, &c.

Buck-Hunting.

THis Beast is common in most Countries, being as corpulent as a Hart; but in quantity resembleth more a Roe, except in colour.

The Males have Horns, which they lose yearly; but the Females none at all. Their colours are divers, but most commonly branded or sandy on the back, having a black list all down along on the back; their bellies and sides spotted with white, which they lose by their old age: and the Does do especially vary in colour, being sometimes all white, and therefore like unto Goats, except in their hair, which is shorter.

In their Horns they differ not much from a Hart, [Page] except in quantity, and that they grow out of their Heads like Fingers out of the Hand; such is this Fallow-Deer, being therefore called Cervus Palmatas. As for their other parts, they much resemble a Roe-buck. Their flesh is excellent for nourishment, but their blood ingenders too much Melancholy.

Now know, the Buck is Fawn'd about the latter end of May, and its nature and properties differ little from the Hart.

There is not so much art and skill in Lodging a Buck, as in the Harbouring a Hart; neither is there required so much drawing after, but onely you are to judge by the View, and mark what Grove or Covert he entreth; for he will not wander and rove up and down so often as a Hart, nor so frequently change his Layr.

He maketh his Fewmishings in divers manners and forms, as the Hart doth, according to the diversity of Food, and time of the day, Morning and Evening; but most commonly they are round.

The Hart and Buck differ thus in parallel. When the Buck is hunted, he oft-times betakes himself to such strong Holds and Coverts as he is most acquainted with, not flying far before the Hounds, not crossing nor doubling, using no such subtleties as the Hart is accustomed to.

The Buck will beat a Brook, (but seldom a great River, as the Hart) but it must not be so deep; nor can he stay so long at Soil as the Hart will do: onely he leapeth lightlier at Rut than the Hart; and groaneth or troateth, as a Hart belleth, but with a lower Voice, ratling in the Throat. And here is to be noted, they love not one another, nor will they come near each other's Layr.

Buck Venison is incomparable food, and is dressed like Hart-Venison; onely this last will be preserved longer than the former.

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The Buck herds more than the Hart, and lieth in the driest places: but if he be at large, unconfined within the limitary Precincts of a Park, he will herd but little from May to August, because the flies trouble him. He takes great delight in hilly places; but the Dales are his joy to feed in.

Bucks have seldom or never any other Relays than the old Hounds.

The greatest subtlety a Huntsman need use in the Hunting of the Buck, is to beware of Hunting Counter or Change, because of the plenty of Fallow-Deer, which use to come more directly upon the Hounds than the Red-Deer doth. Now upon the breaking up of a Buck the Hounds Reward is the same with that of the Hart.

Roe-Hunting.

THe Roe-Buck is called by the Greeks and Latines by one name, viz. Dorcas. These beasts are very plentiful in Africa, Germany, and Helvetian Alps.

Their swiftness doth not onely appear upon the Earth, but also in the Waters, cutting them when they swim as with Oars; and therefore they love the Lakes and strong Streams, breaking the Floods to come at fresh Pasture, feeding deliciously on sweet Rushes, and Bull-rushes. Horns onely grow upon the Male, and are set with six or seven branches, not palmed, but branchy, yet shorter than Follow Deer: They differ not much from common Deer, but in their Horn: and whereas the Horns of other Beasts are hollow towards the root, whereinto entereth a certain long substance; the Horns of these, as also of the vulgar Buck and Elk, [Page] are solid whithout any such emptiness, onely they are full of Pores.

It is supposed by the Learned, that a Roe was called in Greek Dorcas, by reason of the quickness of her sight; and that she can see as perfectly in the night as in the day. Physitians have observed a certain viscous humour about her bowels, which by anointing Eyes that are dark, heavy, and near blinde, quickens the sight most wonderfully.

It is reported of them, that they never wink no not when they sleep; for which conceit their blood is prescribed for them who are dim-sighted or pur-blinde. The tail of this beast is lesser and shorter than a Fallow-Deer's; insomuch that it is doubtful whether it be a tail or not.

They keep for the most part in the Mountains among the Rocks, being very swift; and when they are hunted (Martial saith) they hang upon the Rocks with their Horns, to delude the Dogs, after a strange manner, ready to fall and kill themselves, and yet receive no harm, where the Dogs dare not approach, as appeareth in his Epigram.

Pendentem fumma Capream, de rupe videbis,

Casuram speres, decipit illa Canes.

This might be more properly meant of the Wild-Goat.

They are most easily taken in the Woods. When they are chased, they desire to run against the wind, because the coldness of the Air refresheth them in their course; and therefore they who hunt them place their Dogs with the Wind. They are often taken by the counterfeiting of their Voice, which the skilful Huntsman doth by the assistance of a Lease in his Mouth.

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This Beast is very easie to hunt, and goeth to Rut (or Tourn most properly) in October, the extent whereof consists of fifteen days, and never parteth with the Doe till Fawning-time.

The Doe, finding her self near her time, secretly departs from the Buck, and sawneth as far from him and his knowledge as she can; for could he finde the Fawn, he would kill it. Now when the Fawn grows big, and can run and feed, she then returns to the Buck again very lovingly, with all expedition: the cause whereof, is the Roes fawning Twins, which are commonly Buck and Doe; so that being accustomed together in youth, they do love to keep company ever after.

As soon as the Roe-Buck cometh from Rut, he casts his Horns; and there are few after two years old which Mew not at Alhallontide, but their Heads grow quickly out again.

The Venison of a Roe is never out of season, being never fat, and therefore they are to be hunted at any time: onely this, some favour ought to be shewn the Doe whilst she is big with Fawn, and afterwards till her Fawn is able to shift for himself: besides, some Roe-Does have been killed with five Fawns in their belly.

They usually when hunted, take a large first Ring, and afterwards hunt the Hounds.

When they are hunted, they turn much and often, and come back upon the Dogs directly: When they can no longer endure, they then take Soil, as the Hart doth, and will hang by a bough in such manner, that nothing shall appear of them above Water but their Snout, and will suffer the Dogs to come just upon them before they will stir.

He is not called by the skilful in the Art of Hunting a Great Roe-Buck, but a Fair Roe-Buck. The Herd of them is called a Beavy: And if he hath not Beavygrease [Page] on his Tail when he is broken up, he is more fit to be Dogs-meat than Mans-meat.

The Hounds must be Rewarded with the Bowels, the Blood, and Feet slit asunder, and boiled all together. This is more properly called a Dose than a Reward. For what might be said farther concerning Roe-Hunting, I shall refer you to the Chapters of Hart and Buck-Hunting.

Rain-Deer-Hunting.

THe Rain-Deer is not unlike a Hart, onely his Head is fuller of Antliers, being bigger and wider in compass; for he bears four and twenty branches and more according to his age, having a great Palm on the top, as a Hart, and his Fore-Antliers are Palmed also.

He flieth end-ways when he is Hunted, by reason of the great weight of his Head. When he hath stood up a great while, doubled, crossed, and used other crafty tricks to shun the Hounds, he makes a Tree his last refuge; so planting himself, that nothing can assault him but just before, placing his buttock and Haunches against the Tree, and hanging down his Head low to the ground, whereby all his Body is covered.

As the Hart strikes with his Head, the Rain-Deer strikes with his Feet against any one that comes in to him to help the Dogs, not in the least turning his Head, that being his chiefest defence, and seems very terrible to the Hounds.

He feedeth like the Hart, and maketh his Fewmets sometimes long, and sometimes flat, and beareth fatter [Page] Venison, when he is in pride of Grease, than any other Deer doth, and is very long liv'd. He is more commonly drawn after with a Blood-hound, than hunted, and intrapped with Nets and Engines, and that in the thick and greatest Holds, if it may be; which is the best and speediest way, by reason of his great and spreading Head. Since there are but few of them in England, I shall desist from discoursing farther concerning him.

Of the Nature and Properties of a Hare.

AN Hare is called in Hebrew Arnebet in the Feminine gender, which word possessed a great many that all Hares were Females: He is called Lagws by the Greeks, for his immoderate Lust; and by the same Nation Ptoox, for his Fear; and by the Latines Lepus, quasi Levi-pes, signifying Swiftness of feet (alias) Lightfoot.

There are four sorts of Hares; some live in the Mountains, some in the Fields, some in the Marshes, some every where, without any certain place of abode. They of the Mountains, are most swift; they of the Fields, less nimble; they of the Marshes, most slow; and the wandering Hares are most dangerous to follow; for they are so cunning in the ways and muses of the Fields, running up the Hills and Rocks, because by custom they know the nearer way, with other tricks, to the confusion of the Dogs, and dis-encouragement of the Hunters.

In the next place, a description of the parts of an Hare will not be unnecessary, since it is admirable to behold how every Limb and Member of this Beast is [Page] composed for celerity. In the first place, the Head is round, nimble, short, yet of convenient longitude, prone to turn every way. The Ears long, and lofty, like an Asses: for Nature hath so provided, that every fearful and unarmed creature should have long and large Ears, that by hearing it might prevent its Enemies, and save it self by flight. The Lips continually move sleeping and waking; and from the slit they have in the middle of their Nose, cometh the term of Harre-lips which are so divided in men.

The Neck of an Hare is long, small, round, soft, and flexible: The Shoulder-bone straight and broad, for her more easie turning: her Legs before soft, and stand broader behinde than before, and the hinder Legs longer than the former: a Breast not narrow, but fitted to take more breath than any Beast of that bigness: a nimble Back, and fleshy Belly, tender Loins, hollow Sides, fat Buttocks, filled up, strong and nervous Lines. Their Eyes are brown, and they are subtile, but not bold; seldom looking forward, because going by jumps. Their Eye-lids coming from the Brows are too short to cover their Eyes, and therefore this Sense is very weak in them: when they watch they shut their Eyes, and when they sleep they open them.

They have certain little Bladders in their Belly filled with matter, out of which both the one and the other Sex suck a certain humour, and anoint their Bodies all over therewith, and so are defended against Rain.

Though their sight be dim, yet they have visum indefessum, an indefatigable sence of Seeing; so that the continuance in a mean degree, countervaileth in them the want of excellency.

They feed abroad, because they would conceal their forms; and never drink, but content themselves with [Page] the Dew, and for that cause they often fall rotten. As it is before, every Limb of a Hare is composed for celerity, and therefore she never travelleth, but jumpeth: her Ears lead her the way in her Chase; for with one of them she harkneth to the cry of the Dogs, and the other she stretcheth forth like a Sail, to hasten her course; always stretching her hinder beyond her former, and yet not hindering them at all; and in Paths and High-ways she runs more speedily.

The Hares of the Mountains do often exercise themselves in the Valleys and Plains, and through practice grow acquainted with the nearest ways to their Forms or places of constant abode. So that when at any time they are hunted in the Fields, such is their subtile dodging, that they will dally with the Huntsmen till they seem to be almost taken, and then on a sudden take the nearest way to the Mountains, and so take Sanctuary in the inaccessible places, whither Dogs nor Horse dare ascend.

Hares which frequent Bushes and Brakes, are not able to endure labour, and not very swift, by reason of the pain in their Feet, growing fat through idleness and discontinuance of running. The Campestrial or Field-Hare, being leaner of Body, and oftner chased, is taken with more difficulty, by reason of her singular agility; she therefore when she beginneth her course, leapeth up from the ground as if the flew, afterwards passeth through Brambles, and over thick Bushes and Hedges with all expedition; and if at any time she come into deep Grass or Corn, she easily delivereth her self, and slideth through it, always holding up one Ear, and bending it at her pleasure to be the Moderator of her Chase. Neither is she so unprovident and prodigal of her strength, as to spend it all in one Course, but observeth the force of her Prosecuror, who if he be slow and sluggish, she is not profuse of [Page] her celerity, but onely walketh gently before the Dogs, and yet safely from their Clutches, reserving her greatest strength to her greatest necessity: for the knoweth she can out-run the Dogs at her pleasure, and therefore will not trouble her self more than she is urged. But if there be a Dog following her more swiftly than the residue, then she setteth forward with all the force she can; and when she hath left both Hunters and Dogs a great way behinde her, she getteth to some little Hill or rising of the Earth, where she raiseth her self upon her hinder-Legs, that thereby she may observe how far or near her Pursuers are distant from her.

The younger Hares, by reason of their weak Members, tread heavier on the Earth than the elder; and therefore leave the greater Scent behinde them. At a year old they run very swift, and their Scent is stronger in the Woods than in the plain Fields; and if they lie down upon the Earth (as they love to do) in red Fallow-grounds, they are easily descried.

Their foot-steps in the Winter-time are more apparent than in the Summer, because, as the Nights are longer, so they travel farther: neither do they scent in the Winter-mornings so soon as it is day, until the Frost be somewhat thawed; but especially their footsteps are uncertain at the Full of the Moon, for then they leap and play together, scattering and putting out their scent or savour; and in the Spring-time also, when they do ingender, they confound one anothers footsteps by multitudes.

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Hare-Hunting.

IT is the judgement of all, that a Hare doth naturally know the change of Weather from twenty four hours to twenty four hours. When she goeth to her Form, she will suffer the Dew to touch her as little as she can, but followeth the High-ways and beaten Paths.

They go to Buck commonly in January, February, and March, and sometimes all the warm Months; sometimes seeking the Buck seven or eight miles distant from the place where they usually sit, following the High-ways, &c.

If when a Hare riseth out of her Form, she couches her Ears and Scut, and runs not very fast at first, it is an infallible sign that she is old and crafty.

You may know a Buck-Hare as you hunt him to his Form by his beating the hard High-ways. He feedeth farther out into the Plains, and maketh his doublings and crossings much wider, and of greater compass than the Female doth: for she will keep close by some Covert-side, turning and winding in the bushes like a Coney; and if she go to relief in the Corn-fields, she seldom crosseth over the Furrows, but followeth them along, staying upon the thickest tufts of Corn to feed.

Likewise you may know a Buck at the rising out of his Form by his Hinder-parts, which are more whitely; or if you observe his Shoulders before he rise, which will be redder than the Does, having some loose long Hairs growing on them. Again, his Head is shorter, and better trussed; his Hairs about his Lips [Page] longer; and his Ears shorter and more gray. The Hairs upon the Female's Chine will be of a blackish gray.

Besides, when Hounds hunt a Female-Hare, she will use more crossing and doubling, seldom making out end-ways before the Hounds: whereas the Male acts contrary; for having once made a Turn or two about his Form, then farewal Hounds; for he will frequently lead them five or six miles before ever he will turn his head.

When you see that your Hounds have found where an Hare hath pass'd to Relief upon the High-way-side, and hath much doubled and crossed upon dry places, and never much broken out nor relieved in the Corn, it is a sign she is but lately come thither; and then commonly she will stay upon some high place to look about her, and to chuse out a place to form in, which she will be loth to part with.

Of the Craft and Subtlety of an Hare.

As of all Chases the Hare makes the greatest pastime and pleasure; so it is a great delight and satisfaction to see the craft of this little poor Beast in her own self-preservation.

And that you may understand what these Subtleties are, you must first take notice what Weather it is. If it be rainy, then the Hare will hold the High-ways more than at any other time: and if she come to the side of any young Grove or Spring, she will scarcely enter, but squat down by the side thereof until the Hounds have over-shot her; and then she will return the self-same way she came to the place from whence she was started, and will not by the way go into any Covert, for fear of the wet and Dew that hang upon the Boughs.

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In this case, let the Huntsman stay a hundred paces before he comes to the Wood-side, by which means he shall perceive whether she return as aforesaid; which if she do, let him hallow in his Hounds, and call them back, and that presently, that the Hounds may not think it the Counter she came first.

The next thing to be observed, is the place where the Hare sitteth, and upon what wind she makes her Form: for if she form either upon the North or Southwind, she will not willingly run into the Wind, but run upon a side or down the Wind. But if she form in the Water, it is a sign she is foul and measled. If you hunt such a one, have a special regard all the day to the Brook-sides, for there and near Plashes she will make all her crossings, doublings, &c.

I have seen a Hare so crafty, that as soon as she heard the sound of a Horn, she would instantly start out of her Form, thought it was a quarter of a mile distant, and go swim in some Pool, and there rest her self upon some Rush-bed in the midst thereof, from whence she would not stir till she heareth the Horn again; and then I have seen her start out again swimming to Land, and she hath stood up before the Hounds four hours before we could kill her, swimming, and using all her Subtleties and crossings in the Water.

Such is the Natural craft and subtlety of a Hare, that sometimes, after she hath been hunted three hours, she will start a fresh Hare, and squat in the same Form. Others, having been hunted a considerable time, will creep under the Door of a Sheep-coat, and there hide themselves among the Sheep; or when they are hard hunted, will run in among a flock of sheep, and cannot be gotten out from among them by any means, till the Hounds are coupled up, and the Sheep driven into their Pens. Some (and that is something strange) will take the ground like a Coney, and that is called [Page] going to the Vaut. Some Hares will go up one side of the Hedge, and come down the other, the thickness of the Hedge being the onely distance between the courses.

I have seen a Hare, that being sorely hunted, got upon a Quick-set-hedge, and ran a good way upon the top thereof, and then lept off upon the ground. And they will frequently betake themselves to Furz-bushes, and will leap from one to the other, whereby the Hounds are frequently in default. Nay, which is more, I have heard of a Hare, that being hunted two hours or more, at length, to save her self, got upon an old Wall six foot high from the ground, and hid her self in the hole that was made for a Scaffold: and that several have swam over Trent and Severn.

A Hare liveth not above seven years at most, especially the Buck; and if he and the Doe shall keep one quarter together, they will never suffer any strange Hare to sit by them; and therefore it is proverbially said, The more you hunt, the more Hares you shall have; because when you have killed one Hare, another will come and possess his Form.

An Hare hath greater Scent, and is more eagerly hunted by the Hounds, when she feeds and relieveth upon green Corn, than at any other time in the year: and yet there are some Hares which naturally give a greater Scent than others; as the great Wood-Hares; and such as are foul and measled, and keep near to the Waters: But the little red Hare, which is not much bigger than a Coney, is neither of so strong a Scent, nor so eagerly hunted. Such as feed upon the small branches of wild Time, or such-like Herbs, are commonly very swist, and will stand long up before the Hounds. In like manner you have some Hares more subtile and cunning than others. Young Hares which have not been hunted are foolish, and are neither of [Page] force nor capacity to use such subtleties and crafts, but hold on end-ways before the Hounds most commonly, and do squat and start again oftentimes, which doth much encourage the Hounds, and enters them better than if the Hare flies and-ways, as sometimes they will five or six mile an end.

The Females are more crafty and politick than the Bucks; for they double and turn shorter than they, which is displeasant to the Hounds; for it is troublesome for them to turn often, delighting more in an end-way-chase, running with all their force: for such Hares as double and cross so often, it is requisite at default to cast the greater compass about, when you beat to make it out, for so you will find all her subtilties, and yet need to stick upon none of them, but onely where she went on forwards: By this means you will abate her force, and compel her to leave doubling and crossing.

How to Enter Hounds to the Hare.

Let the Huntsinan be sure in the first place to make his Hounds very well acquainted with him and his Voice, and let them understand the Horn; and to this end let him never blow his Horn or hallow but when there is good cause for so doing, and let him be sure that his Hounds want no encouragement.

Here by the way observe two remarkable things. The first is, if you intend to enter a young Kennel of Hounds, you must take notice of the Country where you will make your first Quarry, and whereof you make it. For according to the places wherein they are first entred, and the nature of the Quarry given them, they will prove accordingly for the future. Thus if they are first entred in the Plains and Champain-countries, they will ever after more delight to hunt there [Page] than in any other place: and so it is the same with the Coverts.

But, say some of our Huntsmen, all strange Countries that differ from that to which Hounds are accustomed, causes them at first to be at seek: But good Hounds will soon be master of any Country; and therefore he that would have the best Hounds, must use them to all kinds of Hunting: And it is easie to bring Hounds to enjoy a Scent from a bleak Down to a fresh Pasture. And therefore many of us love to enter in the worst Countries.

Do not accustom your Hounds to hunt in the Morning, because of the Dew and moisture of the Earth: and besides, you will find by experience, that if afterwards you hunt them in the heat of the day, they will soon give over the chase; neither will they call on willingly or chearfully, but seek out the shades to sleep in. Yet many of us agree, that to hunt both early and late in the morning by Trayling, advantageth the Hounds to use their Noses; and by keeping them sometimes in the heat of the day, or till night, moves them to stoutness.

The best season to enter your young Hounds is in September and October; for then the weather is temperate, neither too hot nor too cold; and then is the time to find young Hares which have never been hunted, which are foolish, and ignorant of the politick crossings, doublings, &c. of their Sires, running commonly end-ways, frequently squatting, and as often starting, by which encouragement the Hounds are the better entered.

A Hare hath greater Scent, and is more eagerly hunted by the Hounds, when she feedeth and relieveth on green Corn, than at any other time of the year.

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Moreover, some Hares have naturally a greater scent than others, as the great Wood-Hares, and such as are foul and measled, having their greatest resort near the Water and Plashes.

The little small red Hare, not much bigger than a Coney, is very feeble, and not much covered by the Hounds, having a bad scent: but such as feed on the small branches of wilde Time are commonly very swift, and will stand up a long time before the Hounds.

The Does are much craftier than the Bucks, doubling and turning oftner and shorter, which is very vexatious and troublesome to the Hounds. Now for such Hares as double and cross so often, it is requisite at a default to cast the greater compass about when you draw to make it out; so shall you find all their subtilties; though it is needless to stick upon any, but where they went onwards: by so doing you will abate the force of a Hare, and force her from crossing and doubling.

Some Hares hold the high beaten ways onely, where the Hounds can have no scent: wherefore when the Huntsman finds his Hounds at a default in the Highway, let him hunt on until he find where the Hare hath broken from the High-way, or hath found some Dale or fresh place where the Hounds may recover scent, looking narrowly on the ground as he goeth, if he can find the Footing or Pricking of the Hare.

There are other places wherein a Hound can finde no scent; and that is in fat and rotten ground, and it sticketh to the Foot of the Hare, which is called Carrying, and so consequently she leaves no scent behinde her. So likewise there are certain Months wherein a Hound can find no scent, and that is in the Springtime, by reason of the fragrant smell of Flowers, and the like.

Shun, as much as you can, hunting in hard frosty weather, [Page] for so you will surbate or founder your Hounds, and make them lose their Claws: besides, at that time a Hare runneth better than at any other time, the Soals of her feet being hairy.

To conclude, the best way of entring your young Hounds, is by the help of old Staunch-Hounds; so will they the better learn to cast for it at a doubling or default.

What time of the year is best for Hare-Hunting: How to find her, start her, and chase her.

The best time to begin Hare-Hunting, is about the middle of September, ending towards the latter end of February, lest you destroy the early brood of Leverets. Moreover, upon the approach of Winter the moistness and coolness of the Earth increaseth, which is agreable to the nature of the Hounds, and very acceptable, they ever hating extream heats and hot weather.

Your Hounds being two years old and upwards, you may exercise them thrice a Week, and they will be the better for so often hunting, provided you feed well; and keep out your Hounds the greatest part of the day, both to try their stoutness, and to make them stout.

If there be any Hound which hath found the Trail of a Hare where she hath relieved that night, let the Huntsman then forbear being over-hasty, but let the Hounds make it of themselves: and when he shall perceive that they begin to draw in together, and to call on freshly, then let him encourage them, especially that Hound which hunteth best, frequently calling him by his name.

Here note, that a Hare leaveth better scent when [Page] she goeth to relief, than when she goeth towards her Form: for when she relieveth in the Field, she coucheth her body low upon the ground, passing often over one piece of ground, to find where lieth the best food; and thus leaveth the better Scent, crotying also sometimes.

Besides, when she goes to her Form, she commonly takes the High-ways, doubling, crossing, and leaping as lightly as she can; in which places the Hounds can have no scent, (as is said before) by reason of the dust, &c. And yet they will squat by the sides of the High-ways; and therefore let the Huntsman beat very well the sides of those High-ways.

Now having found where a Hare hath relieved in some Pasture or Corn-field, then must you consider the season of the year, and what Weather it is: for if it be in the Spring-time, or Summer, a Hare will not then sit in the Bushes, because they are frequently offended with Pismires, Snakes and Adders, but will sit in Cornfields and open places.

In winter they love to sit near Towns and Villages in Tufts of Thorns and Brambles, especially when the Wind is Northerly or Southerly.

According to the season and nature of the place where the Hare is accustomed to sit, there beat with your Hounds and start her; which is much better sport than Trailing of her from her Relief to her Form.

When the Hare is started and on foot, then step in where you saw her pass, and hallow in your Hounds until they have all undertaken it and go on with it in full cry: then Recheat to them with your Horn, following fair and softly at first, making neither too much haste nor noise with Horn or Voice: for at the first Hounds are apt to over-shoot the chase through too much heat. But having ran the space of an hour, [Page] and that you see the Hounds are well in with it, sticking well upon it, then you may come in nearer with the Hounds, because by that time their heat will be cooled, and they will hunt more soberly. But above all things mark the first doubling, which must be your direction for the whole day; for all the doublings that she afterwards shall make will be like the former: and according to the policies that you shall see her use, and the place where you hunt, you must make your compasses great or little, long or short, to help the defaults, always seeking the moistest and most commodious places for the Hounds to scent in.

To conclude, those who delight in the commendable Exercise of Hunting the Hare, must rise early, lest they be deprived of the scent of her foot-steps, by which means the Dogs will be incapacitated to follow their Game; for the nature of the scent is such, that it will not remain long, but suddainly, in a manner every hour, vanisheth away.

Of Parks and Warrens.

HAving thus discoursed of the Nature and Properties of the Hare, together with the manner of hunting them; in the next place I hold it not improper in short to speak something of Parks and enclosed Warrens, wherein Hares, Coneys, Deer, &c. may always be ready as it were out of a Store-house or Seminary to serve the use and pleasure of their Masters.

The first Roman that ever enclosed wild Beasts, was Fulvius Herpinus; and Varro had the first Warren of Hares. The largest Hare-Parks that ever I heard [Page] of, and the best furnished with those fearful, yet subtile Creatures, are in Ireland; the one belongs to the Lord-Lieutenant of that Kingdom, near Dublin; and the other in the North, and belongs to the Lord of Mazareen. It will be a tedious task for me to give you an account of the variety of Parks and Warrens within the three Kingdoms; I shall therefore onely tell you in what manner they are erected, and that very briefly.

The Walls or Pales must be high, or close joynted, so as neither Badger nor Cat can creep through, nor Wolf, nor Fox can leap over; wherein ought also to be Bushes and broad Trees to cover the Beasts against heat and cold, and other secret places to satisfie their natures, and to defend the lesser beasts, as Hares, Conveys, &c. from Hawks, Kites, and other ravening Fowls: in which three or four couple of Hares will quickly multiply into a great Warren.

It is very good to sow Gourds, Misceline, Corn, Barley, Pease, and such-like, wherein Hares delight, and will thereby quickly grow fat.

Warreners have a very crafty device to fatten Hares, which by experience is found effectual, and that is by putting Wax into their Ears, and so make them deaf; then turn them into the place where they should seed, where being freed from the fear of Sounds (for want of hearing) they grow fat before other of their kind.

Here note, that when you have pitched your Hays for Coneys, sound a Trumpet in some of the Burroughs, and scarce a Coney in the whole Warren but will start abroad.

I shall end this Chapter with Martial's praise of a Hare and a Thrush.

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Inter Aves Turdus si quis in Judice certet,

Inter Quadrupedes gloria prima Lepus.

Amongst all Birds none with the Thrush compare,

And no Beast hath more glory than the Hare.

Of Coney-Catching.

BEfore we speak of the Hunting of the Coney, it will not be amiss to take notice of her nature and properties, which are these: the carrieth her young in her Belly thirty days; as soon as she hath kindued she goes to Buck. They begin to breed in England at a year old (but sooner in other places) and so coutinue, bearing at least seven times in a year if they Litter in March; this is the reason that a small stock will serve to increase a large Warren. The Does cannot suckle their young till they have been with the Buck, which must be done presently, or she will not be inclined fourteen days after.

When the Buck goes to Doe, he will beat very strongly with his fore-Foot upon the ground, and by that means he heateth himself. When he hath buckt, he is accustomed to fall backwards, and lie as if he were in a Trance or half dead, at which time he is easily taken.

The Latines call a Coney, Cuniculus, because it maketh holes in the Earth; and Cuniculus was a Latine word for a Hole or Cave in the Earth, before it was taken for a Coney.

The Bucks will kill the young if they can come at them, like to your Bore-cats; and therefore the Doe prevents that mischief, by covering her Stop or Nest [Page] with Earth or Gravel, that so they may not easily be discovered.

Those who keep Coneys tame for profit, may give them to eat Vine-leaves, Fruits, Herbs, Grass, Bran, Oatmeal, Mallows, Milk-thistles, Apple-parings, Cabbage, Lettise, or Carret-tops. In Winter they will eat Hay, Oats, and Chaff, being given to them thrice a day: but when they eat green things, they must not drink at all, because of the Dropsie which will follow: At all other times a little drink must serve their turn, and that must be always fresh. Here note, give them not too much green juicy meat, unless you entermix therewith what is dry, as Oats, Chaff, &c. otherwise they will be Cathed, or tun-bellied.

Now the way of taking them is either by small Curs or Spaniels bred up for that sport; and their places for hunting are among Bushes and Hedges; or else by coursing them with small Grey-hounds. In their default they are commonly driven into their Burrows; and therefore it will be very requisite to set Purse-nets on the Holes, then put in a Ferret close muzzled, and she will make the Coneys, bolt out again into the Purse-nets, and so you may take them. Some say the Drone of a Bag-pipe, put into a Coney-borrow, and blown on a sudden, will make Coneys bolt.

For want of a Ferret; you may take the powder of Orpine and some Brimstone, and therewith make a smother in the Burrows, and so they will bolt out. But this way is not to be approved of; for by that means the Coneys will forsake those Burrows, and so in a little time a Warren will be destroy'd, should this course be used frequently.

But above Nets and Ferrets, Hays are to be preferred for the taking of Coneys; neither is the drawing Ferret to be despised when they are young. Likewise there is excellent sport to be made with our Tumblers, who will kill Coneys abundantly.

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Let this suffice, since any farther discourse hereof is neither proper, nor pertinent to my present purpose.

Of the Ferret.

THe Ferret is a little creature that is not bred in Spain, Italy, France, nor Germany; but in England they breed naturally, and are tamed for the benefit of such who keep Warrens, and others.

It is a bold and audacious Beast, Enemy to all others but his own kind, drinking and sucking in the blood of the beast it biteth, but eateth not the flesh.

When the Warrener hath an occasion to use his Ferret, he first makes a noise in the Warren to frighten what Coneys are abroad into their Burrows, and then he pitcheth his Nets; after that, he puts his Ferret into the Earth, having a long Strick, with Bells about her Neck, whose Mouth must be muzzled, so that he may not seize, but frighten the Coneys out of their Burrows, and afterwards driven by Dogs into the Nets or Hays so planted for them.

The Body is longer for the proportion than the quantity may afford. Their colour is variable, sometimes black and white on the Belly, but most commonly of a yellowish sandy colour, like Wool died in Urine. The Head is little, like a Mouse's; and therefore into whatsoever Hole she can put it in, all her body will easily follow after. The Eyes are small, but fiery like red-hot Iron, and therefore she seeth most clearly in the dark. Her Voice is a whining cry without changing it: She hath onely two Teeth in her neither Chap, standing out, and not joyned and growing [Page] together. The Genital of the Male is of a bony substance, and therefore it always standeth stiff, and is not lesser at one time than another. The pleasure of the sence in Copulation is not in the Genital-part, but in the Muscles, Tunicles, and Nerves wherein the said Genital runneth. When they are in Copulation the Female lieth down, or bendeth her Knees, and continually crieth like a Cat, either because the Male claweth her with his nails, or by reason of the roughness of his Genital.

She usually brings forth seven or eight at a time, carrying them forty days in her little belly: The young ones newly littered are blind thirty days together; and within forty days after they can see, they may be used as their dam for profit and recreation.

When tamed, they are nourished with Milk or with Barley-bread, and they can fast a very long time. When they go, they contract their long back, and make it stand upright in the middle round like a Bowl: when they are touched, they smell like a Martel; and they sleep very much. Thus much of the Ferret, which I thought good to place after the Chapter of Coney-catching, because this little Animal is such a necessary Instrument for that purpose.

Of Fox-Hunting.

HIs Shape and Proportion is so well known, being a beast so common, that it will be needless to describe him.

His nature in many respects is like that of a Wolf, for they bring as many Cubs at a Litter one as the other: but thus they differ; the Fox Litters deep under the ground, so doth not the Wolf,

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A Bitch-Fox is hardly to be taken when she is bragged and with Cub; for then she will lie near her Burrow, into which she runs upon the hearing of the least noise. And indeed at any time it is somewhat difficult; for the Fox (and so the Wolf) is a very subtile crafty creature.

Fox-hunting is very pleasant; for by reason of his strong hot scent he maketh an excellent Cry: And as his scent is hottest at hand, so it dies soonest. Besides, he never flies far before the Hounds, trusting not on his Legs, Strength, or Champion ground, but strongest Coverts. When he can no longer stand up before the Hounds, he then taketh Earth, and then must he be digged out.

If Grey-hounds course him on a Plain, his last refuge is to piss on his Tail, and flap it in their Faces as they come near him; sometimes squirting his thicker Excrement upon them, to make them give over the Course a pursuit.

When a Bitch-Fox goes a clicketing and seeketh sot a Dog, she cryeth with a hollow Voice, not unlike the howling of a mad Dog; and in the same manner she cries when she misseth any of her Cubs: but never makes any cry at all when she is killing, but defend her self to the last gasp.

A Fox will prey upon any thing he can overcome, and feeds upon all sorts of Carrion; but their dainties and the food which they most delight in, is Poultry. They are very destructive and injurious to Coney-Warrens, and will sometimes kill Hares by deceit and subtilty, and not by swift running.

The Fox is taken with Hounds, Grey-hounds, Terriers, Nets, and Gins.

Of Terriers there are two sorts, The one is crookedleg'd, and commonly short-hair'd: and these will take [Page] Earth well, and will lie very long at Fox or Badger. The other sort is shagged and straight Legg'd: and these will not onely hunt above-ground as other Hounds, but also enter the Earth with much more fury than the former; but cannot stay in so long, by reason of their great eagerness.

The time of entring these Terriers, is when they are near a twelve-month old; for if you enter him not in within this time, you will hardly after bring him to take the Earth. And to encourage the young Terrier the more, put in an old one before him, that can better endure the fury of the Fox or Badger: and be careful that neither of them be old when you engage your young Terrier with him.

The entring and fleshing them may be done several ways. In the first place thus: When Foxes and Badgers have young Cubs, then take your old Terriers and enter them in the ground; and when they begin to bay, you must then hold every one of your Terriers at a sundry Hole or Mouth of the Earth, that they may listen and hear the old ones Bay. Having taken the old Fox or Badger, and that nothing remains within but the young Cubs, then couple up all your old Terriers, and put in the young in their stead, encouraging them by crying, To him, to him, to him. And if they take any young Cub within the ground, let them alone to do what they please with him; and forget not to give the old Terriers their reward, which is the Blood and Livers, fryed with Cheese and some of their own Grease, shewing them the Heads and Skins to encourage them. Before you reward them, wash them with Soap and warm Water, to clear their Skins from Earth and Clay that is clodded to the Hair, otherwise they are apt to be mangie. You may also enter them in this manner: Take an old Fox, or Badger, and cut away the neither Jaw, but meddle not with the other, [Page] leaving the upper to shew the fury of the Beast, although it can do no harm therewith. Then dig an Earth in some convenient place in your own grounds, and be careful to make it wide enough, to the intent the Terriers may turn therein the better, and that there may be room enough for two to enter together: then cover the Hole with boards and Turf, putting the Fox or Badger first therein, and afterwards put in your Terriers both young and old, encouraging them with words that are the usual terms of Art. When they have bay'd sufficiently, then begin to dig with Spades and Mattocks, to encourage them against such time as you are to dig over them: then take out the Fox or Badger with the Clamps or Pinchers, killing it before them, or let a Grey-hound kill it in their sight, and make them reward thereof. Here note, that instead of cutting away the Jaw, it will be every whit as well to break out all his Teeth, to prevent him from biting the Terriers.

Now to say the truth, there is not much pastime or pleasure in Hunting of a Fox under ground; for as soon as that subtle creature perceiveth the Terriers, if they bay hard, and lie near unto them, they will bolt out immediately, unless it be when the Bitch hath young Cubs, then they will sooner die than stir.

They make their Earths as near as they can in ground that is hard to dig, as in Clay, Stoney-ground, or amongst the Roots of Trees; and their Earths have commonly but one Hole, and that is straight a long way in before it come at their Couch. Sometimes craftily they possess themselves of a Badger's old Burrow, which hath variety of Chambers, Holes, and Angles.

When a good Terrier doth once binde the Fox, he then yearns, and defends himself very notably, but not so strenuously as the Badger, nor is his biting half so [Page] dangerous. Here note, if you take a Bitch-Fox when she goeth a Clicketing, and cut out that Gut which containeth her Sperm, together with the Kidneys which Gelders deprive Bitches of when they spay them, and cut them into small gobbets, mingling therewith the Gum of Mastick, and put them hot as they are into a Pot, and cover the same close, it will serve for an excellent Train for a Fox, and will keep the whole year round. Take the Skin of Bacon, and broil it well on a Gridiron, then dip it in the ingredients of the Pot aforesaid, and make a train thereof, you will experimentally find, that if there be any Fox near to any place where the train is drawn, he will follow it; but let him who makes the train rub the soals of his Feet with Cow-dung, lest the Fox vent his footing: and thus you may train a Fox to a standing, and kill him in an Evening with Gun or Cross-bow. It is likewise found by experience, that if a Terrier be rubbed with Brimstone, or with Oil of Cade, and then put him into an Earth where either a Fox or Badger is, they will leave that Earth, and come not to it again a good while after.

I shall conclude this discourse with what I have observed in Gesner's History of Beasts tending to the same purpose: saith he, ‘As he frequently cheats the Badger of his Habitation by laying his Excrements at the mouth of his Earth or Burrow; so, for as much as the Wolf is an Enemy to the Fox, he layeth in the mouth of his Earth an Herb called a Sea-onion, which a Wolf naturally hates, and is so averse thereunto, that he will never come near the place where it either lies or grows.’

Of Fox-Hunting above ground.

To this purpose you must draw with your Hounds about Groves, Thickets, and Bushes near Villages: for [Page] a Fox will lurk in such places, to prey on young Pigs and Pullein.

But it will be necessary to stop up his Earths, if you can find them, the night before you intend to hunt; and the best time will be about midnight, for then the Fox goeth out to seek his Prey. You may stop his Holes by laying two white sticks a cross before them, which will make him imagine it is some Gin or Trap laid for him: or else you may stop them up close with black-Thorns and Earth together.

The best hunting a Fox above-ground, is in January, February, and March, for then you shall best see your Hounds hunting, and best find his Earthing; besides, at those times the Fox's Skin is best in season.

Again, the Hounds best hunt the Fox in the coldest weather, because he leaveth a very strong scent behind him; yet in cold weather it chills fastest.

At first onely cast off your sure Finders, and as the Drag mends, so adde more as you dare trust them.

Shun casting off too many Hounds at once, because Woods and Coverts are full of sundry Chases, and so you may engage them in too many at one time.

Let such as you cast off at first be old Staunch-Hounds, which are sure; and if you hear such a Hound call on merrily, you may cast off some other to him; and when they run it on the full cry, cast off the rest: and thus you shall compleat your pastime.

The words of comfort are the same which are used in the other chases, attended with the same Hallowings and other ceremonies.

Let the Hounds kill the Fox themselves, and worry and hare him as much as they please: many Hounds will eat him with eagerness.

When he is dead, hang him at the end of a Pike-staff, and hallow in all your Hounds to bay him: but reward them not with any thing belonging to the Fox; for it is not good, neither will they eat it.

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Of Badger-Hunting.

A Badger is called by several names, viz. a Gray, Brock, Boreson or Bauson, and in France Tausson. The Male is called a Badger or Boar-pig; and the Female is called a Sow.

These Beasts are plentiful in Naples, Sicily, Lucane, and in the Alpine and Helvetian Coasts; so are they also here in England.

There are two kinds of this beast, (saith Gesner) one resembling a Dog in his feet, and the other a Hog in his cloven hoof: they differ too in their snout and colour; for the one resembles the snout of a Dog, the other of a Swine: the one hath a greyer coat, or whiter coat than the other, and goeth farther out in seeking of its prey. They differ also in their meat, the one eating Flesh and Carrion like a Dog, the other Roots and Fruits like a Hog: both these kinds have been found in Normandy, France, and Sicily.

Mr. Turbervil makes mention of two sorts of Badgers likewise, but in a different manner. ‘For the one (saith he) casteth his Fiaunts long like a Fox, and have their residence in Rocks, making their Burrows very deep. The other sort make their Burrows in light ground, and have more variety of Cells and Chambers than the former.’ The one of these is called the Badger-pig, and the other the Badger-whelp; or call one Canine, and the other Swinish. The first hath his Nose, Throat, and Ears yellowish like a Martern's Throat; and are much blacker, and higher Leg'd than the Badger-whelp. Both sorts live upon all Flesh, hunting greedily after Carrion. They are very mischievous and hurtful [Page] to Warrens, especially when they are big with young.

Badgers when they Earth, after by digging they have entred a good depth, for the clearing of the Earth out, one of them falleth on the back, and the other layeth Earth on the belly, and so taking his hinder feet in his mouth, draweth the Belly-laden-Badger out of the Hole or Cave; and having disburdened her self, re-enters, and doth the like till all be finished.

These Badgers are very sleepy, especially in the daytime, and seldom stir abroad but in the night; for which cause they are called Lucifugae, avoiders of the Light.

It is very pleasant to behold them when they gather materials for their Couch, as straw, leaves, moss, and such-like; for with their Feet and their Head they will wrap as much together as a man can well carry under his arm, and will make shift to get it into their Cells and Couches.

He hath very sharp Teeth, and therefore is accounted a deep biting beast: his back is broad, and his legs are longer on the right side than the left, and therefore he runneth best when he gets on the side of an Hill, or a Cart-road-way. His fore-Legs have very sharp Nails, bare, and apt to dig withal, being five both before and behinde, but the hinder very much shorter, and covered with hair. His savour is strong, and much troubled with Lice about the secrets. Both Male and Female have under their Hole another Hole outwardly, but not inwardly in the Male. If she be hunted abroad with Hounds, she biteth them most grievously where-ever she lays hold on them. For the prevention thereof, the careful Huntsmen put great broad Collars made of Grays Skins about their Dogs Necks Her manner is to fight on her back, using thereby both her Teeth and her Nails; and by blowing up her Skin [Page] after a strange and wonderful manner, she defendeth her self against any blow and teeth of Dogs; onely a small stroke on her Nose will dispatch her presently; you may thrash your heart weary on her back, which she values as a matter of nothing.

In Italy they eat the flesh of Badgers, and so they do in Germany, boiling it with Pears: some have eaten it here in England, but like it not, being of a sweet rankish taste.

The flesh is best in September if it be fat; and of the two kinds, the Swinish Badger is better flesh than the other.

They love Hogs-flesh above any other; for take but a piece of Pork and train it over a Badger's Burrow, if he be within, you shall quickly see him appear without.

Their nature is very cold; and therefore when it snoweth they will not come out of their holes for three or four days together.

They live long, and by mere age will grow blinde; then will they not stir out of their Holes, but are fed by those who have their sight.

This subtilty they have, that when they perceive the Terriers begin to yearn them, they will stop the hole between the Terriers and them: if the Terriers continue baying, they will remove their baggage with them, and go into another apartment or chamber of the Burrow, (for know that some of their Houses have half a dozen rooms at least;) and so will remove from one to the other, till they can go no further, barricadoing the way as they go.

The Hunting of a Badger must be after this manner: You must first seek the Earths and Burrows where he lieth, and in a clear Moon-shine night go and stop all the holes but one or two, and therein place some Sacks fastned with some drawing Strings, which may shut him in as soon as he straineth the Bag.

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The Sacks or Bags being thus set, cast of your Hounds, and beat all the Groves, Hedges, and Tufts within a mile or two about. What Badgers are abroad, being alarm'd by the Dogs, will straight repair to their Earths or Burrows, and so be taken.

Let him that standeth to watch the Sacks, stand close, and upon a clear Wind, for else the Badger will soon find him, and fly some other way for safety. But if the Hounds either encounter him, or undertake the chase before he can get into his Earth, he will then stand at bay like a Boar, and make most incomparable sport.

What Instruments are to be used in digging, and how to dig for Badger or Fox.

In the first place, you must have such as are able to dig: next, you must have so many Terriers garnished with Bells hung in Collars, to make the Fox or Badga bolt the sooner; besides, the Collars will be some smal defense unto the Terriers.

The Instruments to dig withal are these: a sharp pointed Spade, which serveth to begin the Trench when the ground is hardest, and broader Tools will not so wel enter; the round hollowed Spade, which is useful to dig amongst Roots, having very sharp edges; the flat broad Spade, to dig withal when the Trench is better opened and the ground softer; Mattocks and Pick-axes, to dig in hard ground where a Spade will do but little service the Coal-rake, to cleanse the Hole, and to keep it from stopping up; the Clamps, whereby you may take a Fox or Badger out alive to make sport therewith afterwards. And it would not be amiss to have a Pail of Water, to refresh your Terriers after they are come out of the Earth to take breath.

In this order you may besiege a Fox or Badger in [Page] their strongest Holes or Castles, and may break their Casmats, Platforms, Parapets, and work to them with Mines and Counter-mines, until you have obtained your satisfaction. But there is a shorter method than this, which by reason of its commonness I shall forbear to mention.

Of the Otter.

IT is supposed by some that the Otter is of the kind of Beavers, being it is an amphibious creature living both in the Water and on the Land; besides, the outward form of the parts beareth a similitude of that beast. Some say, were his tail off, he were in all parts like a Beaver, differing in nothing but habitation: For the Beaver frequenteth both the Salt-water and the Fresh; but the Otter never goeth to the Salt.

Though the Otter live in the Water, yet it doth not breath like Fishes through the benefit of the Water, it doth breath like other four-footed beasts, yet it will remain a long time underneath the Water without respiration.

If he want prey in the Waters, then will he quit them for the Land; and if by painful hunting ashore he cannot fill his belly, he will feed on Herbs, Snails, or Frogs: neither will he take less pains in the water to satisfie hunger; for he will swim two miles together against the stream, that so, when his belly is full, the current of the stream may carry him down again to his designed Lodging, which is near the water, very artificially built with boughs, sprigs, and sticks couching together in excellent order, wherein he sitteth to keep him from the wet.

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In the hunting of Fish he often pops his Nose above water to take breath: It is a creature of wonderful swistness and nimbleness in taking his prey, and for greediness takes more than he knows what to do with.

It is a very subtile and crafty beast, and indowed with a wonderful sagacity and sense of smelling, insomuch that he can directly wind the Fishes in the waters a mile or two off.

The flesh of this beast is both cold and filthy, because it feedeth on stinking Fish, and therefore not fit to be eaten; yet it is eaten in Germany; and the Carthusian Fryers, who are forbidden to eat all manner of flesh of other four-footed beasts, yet they are not prohibited the eating of Otters. There are those in England, who lately have highly valued an Otter-pie, much good may it do them with it.

These Otters must be hunted by special Dogs, such as are called Otter hounds, and also with special Instruments called Otter-spears. When they find themselves wounded with a spear, they then come to Land, where they fight with the Dogs furiously; and except they be first wounded, they forsake not the Water: for they are not ignorant how safe a refuge the Waters are un to them, and how unequal a combat they shall sustain with Men and Dogs upon the Land: yet, because the cold Water annoyeth their green wounds, therefore they spin out their lives to the length of the thread, chusing rather to die in torments among Dogs, than to die in the Waters.

The Food of an Otter (as I said) is Fish; and her abode is commonly under the Root of some Tree near Rivers, Brooks, Pools, Meers, or Fish-ponds; and sometimes she will lie in a hollow Tree four or five foot above ground: and no Vermin can be more destructive to a Warren, than the Otter is to a Fish-pond; [Page] for she diveth and hunteth under water after that most wonderful manner, that few fish escape her, unless they are very swift and great.

An Otter and Ferret grow salt much about the same time, and bring forth their young much after the same manner, neither having their constant number.

There is much craft and cunning in the hunting them; yet with pains-taking you may ensnare them under the water, and by River-sides, as you may a Hare with Hare-pipes and such-like Gins. They bite sore and venomously, and when occasion serves they will desend themselves stoutly. If after their ensnaring they chance to abide there long, they will soon enlarge themselves with their teeth.

These creatures are footed like your water-Fowl, having a web between their claws, and have no heel, but a round ball under the soal of their Feet: and their Track is called their Mark, as the Slot of a Hart; and their Excrements are called Spraints.

An Otter will not abide long in a place; for he is apt to be afraid and take distasle, (having an excellent Ear and Nose, for hearing and smelling;) and then he will forsake his Couch, and shift a mile or two up or down the River: and this he will do according as he findes scarcity of fishing.

In hunting of the Otter observe this, to send some to one side of the River whilst you are on the other, and so beat on the banks with your Dogs, and so you will soon find if there be an Otter in that quarter: for an Otter cannot endure long in the water, but must come forth to make his Spraints, and in the night sometimes to feed on Grass and such Herbs as the fields afford.

If any of the Hounds find out an Otter, then look in the soft grounds and moist places to see which way he bent his head: if the marks make no discovery, [Page] you may partly perceive it by the spraints, and so follow the Hounds, and lodge him as a Hart or Deer. If you find not the Otter quickly, you may then imagine he is gone to couch somewhere farther off from the River: for sometimes he will seek his food a mile from the place of his rest, chusing rather to go up the River than down, because upwards he meets with better scent of Fish; and bearing his nose into the wind, he shall the sooner finde any fault that is above him.

Remember, in the Hunting of the Otter, that you and your friends carry your Otter-spears to watch his Vents, for that is the chief advantage: and if you perceive where the Otter swims under water, then strive to get to a stand before him where he would vent, and there endeavour to strike him with your spear; but if you miss, pursue him with the Hounds, which if they be good Otter-hounds, and perfectly entred, will come chaunting and trailing along by the River-side, and will beat every Tree-root, every Osier-bed and tuft of Bullrushes; nay, sometimes they will take the Water, and beat it like a Spaniel. And by these means the Otter can hardly escape you.

Of the Squirrel.

THe first Author that ever wrote of this little Animal was Oppianus who liv'd in the days of Antonius Caesar, and wrote a Book also of Hunting.

A Squirrel is greater in compass than a Weasle, but the latter is longer than the other; the back-parts and all the body is reddish except the belly, which is white. In Helvetia they are black and branded, and [Page] they are hunted at the fall of the Leaf, when the Trees grow naked: for they run and leap from bough to bough in a most admirable and agile manner; and when the Leaves are on, they cannot be so well discerned. They are of three colours, in the first age black, in the second of a rusty Iron-colour, and lastly, when old, they are full of white hoar Hairs. Their Teeth are like the Teeth of Mice, having the two under-Teeth very long and sharp. Their Tail is always as big as their Body, and it lieth continually on their back when they sleep or sit still, and it seemeth to be given them for a covering.

In the Summer-time they build them Nests (which by some are called Drays) in the Tops of the Trees very artificially with Sticks and Moss, with other things the Woods afford, and then they fill it with Nuts for Winter-provision, and do sleep like the Alpine Mouse most part thereof very soundly, in such sort, that the beating of the outside of their Drays will not wake them.

When they leap from Tree to Tree, they use their Tail instead of VVings, leaping a great distance, and are supported without sinking to any one's appearance; nay, they will frequently leap from a very high Tree down to the ground, and receive no harm.

Many must go together to hunt them, and must carry Dogs with them: and the fittest place for the exercise of this sport, is in little and small slender Woods, such as may be shaken by the hand. Bows are requisite to remove them when they rest in the twists of Trees; for they will not be much terrified with all the hallowing, except they be struck now and then by one means or other. VVell do they know what harbour a high Oak is unto them, and how secure they can lodge therein from Men and Dogs; wherefore since it is too troublesome to climb every Tree, [Page] that labour must be supplied with Bows and Bolts, that when the Squirrel resteth, presently he may be thumpt by the blow of an Arrow: the Archer need not fear to do her much harm, except he hit her on the head, for by reason of a strong back-bone, and fleshy parts, she will abide as great a stroak as a Dog.

If they be driven to the ground from the trees, and they creep into Hedges, it is a sign of their weariness: for such is the lofty mind of this little beast, that while her strength lasteth she saveth her self in the tops of high trees; but being wearied, she descendeth, and falls into the mouths of the yelping curs that attend her.

The admirable wit of the Squirrel appeareth (if it be true) in her swimming, or passing over a River; for when hunger constraineth her so to do, she seeks out some rind, or small bark of a tree, which she setteth upon the water, and then goeth into it, and holding up her Tail like a Sail, letteth the wind drive her to the other side; and carry meat in their mouths, to prevent famine whatsoever should befal them.

Of the Martern and Wild-Cat.

A Martern is about the bigness of a Cat, having a longer body, but shorter legs, with head and tail like a Fox; its skin is commonly brown, white on the throat, and somewhat yellowish on the back.

Their teeth are exceeding white, and unequal, being above measure sharp; the canine teeth both above and below hang out very long.

This and the wild-Cat are a sort of Virmine which we use here in England commonly to Hunt, and as [Page] necessary to be hunted as any Virmin can be: For the question may be doubtful, whether either Fox or Badger do more hurt than the wild-Cat doth, since there are so many Warrens every where throughout the Kingdom of England which are very much infested by the wild-Cat.

It is the opinion of long-experienced Huntsmen, that she leaveth as great scent, and maketh as good a cry for the time as any Vermin that is Hunted, especially the Martern passeth all other Vermin for sweetness of scent, and her Case is a noble Fur. The wild-Cat's Case is not so good, but it is very warm, and medicinable for several Aches and Pains in the bones and joynts: also her Grease is very good for Sinews that are shrunk.

These two Chases are not to be sought purposely, unless the Huntsman do see them where they prey, and can go readily to them; but if a Hound chance to cross them, he will hunt it as soon as any Chase, and they make a noble cry as long as they stand up; when they can do it no longer, they will take a tree, and so deceive the Hounds; but if the Hounds hold in to them, and will not give it over so, then they will leap from one tree to another, and make great shift for their lives, with much pastime to the Huntsmen.

When they are killed you must hold them up upon a piked staff, and hallow in all your Hounds, and then reward them with some meat; for the flesh of these Vermin is naught for Hounds.

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A short Account of some particular Beasts that are not Hunted in England, but in Forrain Countries.

The Nature and Properties of a Wolf, and the manner of its Hunting.

HEretofore I read that there were many Wolves in England, but now there are none; however they are still in Ireland, but their number is very much decreased within these thirty years; and that they may more and more decrease, being so pernicious to all sorts of Cattle, I thought good to publish the nature and manner of their Hunting.

First, as to their Nature; they go a Clicketing in February, and continue in that manner ten or twelve days. Where many Wolves are, many will follow one Bitch, as Dogs will follow a Bitch that is salt, but she will be onely lined with one.

A notable story I have heard when I was in Ireland, and attested for a truth by the Inhabitants: That a Bitch-Wolf proud, will suffer a great many of the Male to follow her, and will carry them after her sometimes eight or ten days without Meat, Drink, or Rest; and when they are so tired that they cannot travel farther, she will first lie down, then will the rest follow her example: when she perceives that they are all asleep, and through weariness snore, then will she arise and awake that Wolf which she observed to follow her most, and having so done, entice him with her far from the rest, and suffer him to line her: the rest awaking and finding her missing, pursue her by the scent, and finding [Page] how she hath cunningly deluded them, they fall instantly on her Companion who hath been before-hand with them, and revenge themselves on him by depriving him of his life; which verifies the proverb: Never Wolf yet ever saw his Sire.

Their Whelps are able to ingender at twelve months end, at which age they part with their Dam, that is, when those Teeth are grown which they cast the first half year, and being grown, they never shed them again: and here see their gratitude, (though bloody cruel creatures) after they have preyed for themselves, if they chance to meet their Dam or Sire (for Turbervile doth not believe the aforesaid story) they will fawn upon them and lick them, rejoycing at the sight of them.

The Dog will never bring any of his Prey to his whelps till he hath filled his own belly; whereas the Bitch will not eat a bit till she hath served them first: they go nine weeks with whelp, and sometimes a little longer, and grow salt but once a year. As to number of whelps, they have more or less as Dogs have; for doubtless both the Wolf and the Fox are but a kind of wild Mastiffs and wild Curs.

They prey upon all kind of things, and will feed on Carrion, Vermin, &c. They will kill a Cow or a Bullock; and as for a Sheep, Goat, or good Porket, they will roundly carry him off in their Mouths, not touching ground with it, and will run so fast away, notwithstanding the load, that they are hardly to be stopped but by Mastiffs or Horse-men. There is no Beast which runneth faster than the Wolf, and holdeth wonderfully also. When he is hunted with Hounds, he flieth not far before them; and unless he be coursed with Grey-hounds or Mastiffs, he keepeth the Covert like the Bear, or Boar, and especially the bearen ways therein. Night is the usual time of his preying, [Page] though hunger will force him to prey by day. They are more subtile and crafty (if more can be) than the Fox or any other beast: When they are hunted, they will take all their advantages; at other times they will never run over-hastily, but keep themselves in breath and force always.

A Wolf will stand up a whole day before a good Kennel of Hounds, unless that Grey-hounds or Wolf-dogs course him. If he stand at bay, have a care of being bitten by him; for being then mad, the wound is desperate, and hard to be cured.

When a Wolf falls into a flock of Sheep, with his good will he would kill them all before he feed upon any of them, and therefore all means should be used to destroy them, as by hunting at force, or with Greyhounds or Mastiffs, or caught in Gins and Snares; but they had need be strong. For encouragement to the meaner sort in Ireland, whosoever took a sucking-Whelp, or preying Cub, a Dog or a Bitch Wolf, and brought but the heads of either to the next Justice of Peace, for reward for the first, he received twenty shillings; for the second, forty; for the third, five pound; and for the last, six pounds: which late encouragement hath in a manner cleared that Kindom of them.

They bark and howl like unto Dogs; and if there be but two of them together, they make such a terrible hideous noise, that you would think there could be no less than twenty of them in a body.

When any one would hunt the Wolf, he must train him by these means: First let him look out some fair place, a mile or more from the great woods, where there is some close standing to place a brace of good Grey-hounds in, if need be, the which should be closely environed, and some pond of water by it: there he must kill a Horse that is worth little, and [Page] take the four legs thereof and carry them into the Woods and Forests adjoyning; then let four men take every man a leg of the beast and draw it at his Horsetail all along the paths and ways in the Woods, until they come back again to the place where the Carcass of the said Beast lieth; there let them lay down their trains. Now when the Wolves go out in the night to prey, they will follow the scent of the train till they come to the carcass where it lieth. Then let those who love the sport, with their Huntsmen come early and privately near the place; and if they are discernable as they are seeding, in the first place let them consider which way will be the fairest course for the Greyhounds, and place them accordingly, and as near as they can let them forestal with their Grey-hounds the same way that the Wolves did or are flying either then or the night before; but if the Wolves be in the coverts near the carrien that was laid for them to feed upon, then let there be hewers set round the coverts to make a noise on every side, but onely that where the Greyhounds do stand; and let them stand thick together, making what noise they can to force them to the Greyhounds: Then let the Huntseman go with his Leamhound, and draw from the carrion to the thickets-sides where the Wolves have gone in, and there the Huntsman shall cast off the third part of their best Hounds; for a Wolf will sometimes hold a covert a long time before he will come out.

The Huntsmen must hold near in to the Hounds blowing hard, and encouraging them with their voice: for many Hounds will strain courtesie at this chase, although they are strong and fit for all other chases.

When the Wolf cometh to the Grey-hounds, they who hold them will do well to suffer the Wolf to pass by the first rank until he come further, and let the last [Page] Rank let slip their Grey-hounds full in the face of the Wolf, and at the same instant let all the other Ranks let slip also: so that the first Rank staying him but ever so little, he may be assaulted on all sides at once, and by that means they shall the more easily take him.

It is best entring of Hounds at young Wolves which are not yet past half a year or a year old; for a Hound will hunt such more willing, and with less fear than an old Wolf; or you may take Wolves alive in Engines, and breaking their Teeth, enter your Hounds at them.

A man may know a Dog-Wolf from a Bitch by the tracks of his Feet; for the Dog hath a greater Heel, a greater Toe, greater Nails, and a rounder Foot. Besides, the Bitch casteth her Fiaunts commonly in the midst of an High-way, whereas the Dog casteth them either on the one side or the other of the Path.

The Reward of the Dogs is thus: when they have bit and shaked the dead Wolf, let the Huntsman then open his Belly straight along, and taking out his bowels, let him throw in Bread, Cheese, and other Scraps, and so let the Dogs feed therein.

Wild-Goat-Hunting.

I Never could read or hear that there was ever any such Chase in England as the Hunting of the wild-Goat: But since there may be such sport in Wales, as there hath been elsewhere, it will not be much amiss to give some short account thereof.

The Wild-Goat is as big as a Hart, but not so long, or so long Leg'd, but is as fleshy. They have Wreaths [Page] and wrinkles on their horns, which declare what their age is: for according to the quantity of the wreaths, such is the number of their years; which wreaths he meweth, but not his beam, the which may be, if he be an old Goat, as big as a mans leg.

They have a great long beard, and are of a brownish gray colour very shaggy, having a long black list down the ridge of the back, and the track is bigger than the slot of a Hart.

They fawn as a Hinde or Doe in May, and have but one fawn, which they suckle and bring up as the tame Goat doth her kid.

They feed like Deer, onely they will eat besides ivy, moss, and such-like. In spring they make their fumets round, and afterwards broad and flat, as the Hart when he comes to feed well.

They go to rut about Alhallontide, and continue therein a month or five weeks; that season being over, they descend from the mountains and rocks, their abode for the summer-season, and herd themselves, not onely to avoid the snow, but because they can find no food any longer; and yet they come not very low, but keep at the foot of the mountains, feeding there till Easter: then they return again, every one chusing some strong hold in the rocks, as the Harts in the thickets.

About fawning-time the females separate from the males, attending till rutting-time: in this interval they will run at man or beast, and fight as Harts doe one amongst the other.

When he goeth to rut, his throat and neck is much bigger than usual: he is very strong backt; and (which is wonderful) though he should fall from on high ten poles length, he will receive no harm; and will walk as securely on the sharp tops of rocks, as a horse in the high-way.

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Alhallontide is the chiefest season for hunting these wild Goats, observing very well before you hunt, the advantages of the coasts, the rocks and places where the Goats do lie.

Having thus done, set nets and toils toward the rivers and bottoms; for you cannot expect your hounds should follow a Goat down every place of the mountains.

Also it will be needful that some stand on the top of the rocks, and throw down stones as they see occasion. Where the Goat goeth down to the small brooks or waters in the bottom, there place your relays, and let the relays never tarry till the hounds come in which were cast off: and this is your best help; for a man can neither follow on foot nor horse-back.

Hunting of the Wild-Boar.

THe Boar is ever pigg'd with as many teeth at first as he shall have ever after, which will onely increase in bigness, not number. Amongst the rest, they have four which are called tushes, or tusks, whereof the two biggest do not hurt when he strikes, but serve onely to whet the other two lowest, with which they frequently kill.

They feed upon all kind of corn and fruits which they can come at; also roots. In April and May they feed on the buds of plumb-trees, and ches-nut-trees, and all other sweet buds they can find, especially on the buds of broom and juniper, and are never measled, as our tame swine. Being near the sea-coast, they will feed on all manner of shell fish.

Their season beginneth in the midst of September, [Page] and endeth about the beginning of December, at which time they go a brimming. A Boar will commonly abide the bay before he goes out of his den; and he lies most commonly in the strongest holds of thorns and thick bushes.

If it so chance that there is a sounder of them together, then if any break sounder, the rest will run that way: and if you hunt a Boar from a thick and strong covert, he will not fail to go back by the same way he came thither: and when he is rear'd he never stays, but flies continually till he comes to the place where he was farrow'd and brought up. This Mr. Turbervile observed himself when he was in France; attesting he saw a Boar hunted from a thicket, which returned the same way he came to the place of his farrowing, which was distant seven French leagues. And this was performed by the track of his feet.

If he be hunted in a forest or hold where he was bred, he will hardly be forced out of it. Sometimes he will take head, and seem to go out, and will draw to the outsides of the wood; but it is onely to hearken on every side: and if he hear the noise of the hounds, then will he return, and will not be compell'd to go that way till night. But having broken out of a forest and taken head end-ways, he will not be put out of his way either by man, dog, voice, blowing, or any thing.

A Boar, especially a great one, will not cry when you kill him: The sows and young swine will sometimes.

Terms to be used in Boar-Hunting.

If it should be demanded what you will call a Boar of three years old; you may answer, He is a young Boar which hath lately left the sounder. An old Boar [Page] you must call a Singular, or Sanglier, that hath left the sounder four or five years since. In making of a report, if you are asked where the Boar fed the night before, you may say, he fed in the corn; but if in the fields or meadows, you must then say, he hath been routing and worming in such a place, or such a fern-field. Where note, that whatsoever he feeds on, excepting roots, is called feeding; the other is called routing, worming, or fearning: but when he feedeth and routeth not, you must then call that grasing.

Boar-Hunting with Hounds at Force.

Be advised not to hunt a young Boar of three years old at force; for he will stand up as long, if not longer than any light young Deer which beareth but three in the top: but in the fourth year you may hunt him at force, as you do a Hart at ten.

In the rearing of your Boar, you need not be afraid to come near him, for he values you not, and will lie still, and will not be rear'd by you alone.

Here note, that if a Boar intends to abide in his den, couch, or fort, then will he make some crossing or doubling at the entry thereof upon some high-way or beaten path; by such means a huntsman, being early in the woods, may judge of the subtilty of the Boar, and accordingly may make preparations for his game.

If he be a great Boar, and one that hath lain long to rest, let him hunt him with good store of hounds, and such as will stick close to him; and let him on horse-back be ever amongst them, charging the Boar, to discourage him: for if you hunt such a Boar with half a dozen couple of dogs, he will not value them; and they having chased him, he will take courage and keep them still at bays, running upon any thing he [Page] seeth before him. But if he be charged home, and hard laid unto with the hounds, he will turn head and fly.

If you strike at him with your sword or Boar-spear, strike not low, for then you will hit him on the snout, which he little values; for he watcheth to take blows upon his tusks or thereabouts: but lifting up your hand, strike right down, and have a special care of your horse; for if you strike and hurt him, so will he you if he can.

It behoveth the hunters of Boars to be very wary; for he will run fiercely without fear upon his pursuers: in which encounter, if he receive not his deaths wound, he overthroweth his adversary, except he fall flat on the ground, and then he need not fear much harm; for his teeth cannot cut upward but downward: but it is otherwise with a female; for she will bite and tear any way.

It is good to raise this beast early in the morning before he hath made water, for the burning of his bladder doth quickly make him weary.

When the Boar is first raised out of the wood, he snuffeth in the wind, lifting up his nose to smell what is with him, and what against him; and rarely strikes a man till he be first wounded himself.

The hunting-spear must be very sharp and broad, branching forth into certain forks, so that the Boar may not break through them upon the huntsman: The best places to wound him in therewith, are the middle of his forehead betwixt his eye-lids, or else upon the shoulder; either of these wounds is mortal.

If the Boar make head against the hunter, he must not fly for it, but must meet him with his spear, holding one hand on the middle of it, and the other at the end, standing one foot before another, having [Page] an especial eye to the head of the beast which way soever he windeth or turneth the same: for such is the nature of the Boar, that-sometimes he snatcheth the spear out of their hands, or else recoileth the force back again upon the hunter, by both which means he is in great danger of life: whensoever this hapneth there is but one remedy, which is; another of his companions must come and charge the Boar with his spear, and then pretend to wound him with his dart, but not casting it for fear of hurting the hunter. The Boar seeing this, forsaketh the first man, and rusheth upon the second, who must look to defend himself with all dexterity, composing his body, and ordering his weapons according to artificial Boar-hunting: in the mean time he that was overthrown must rise again, taking fresh hold on his spear, and with all courage assault his adversary, and assist his friend who was the cause of the saving of his life.

When he feeleth himself so wounded that he cannot live, were it not for the forks of the Boar-spear, he would press it on his vanquisher, and so revenge his death: For such is the fury of this beast, that he will endeavour to wound and kill, although he feel upon him the pangs of death; and what place soever he biteth, whether man or dog, the heat of his teeth causeth the wound to be inflam'd: and for this cause, if he but touch the hair of a dog, he burneth it off: nay, huntsmen have tried the heat of his teeth, by laying hairs on them as soon as he was dead, and they have shrivel'd up as with a hot-iron.

To conclude; the same devises, diligence, labour, prosecution, and observations are to be used in the hunting of the Boar, which are prescribed for the hunting of the Hart. Not but that there are several policies and stratagems which have been invented, and are still used in several countries, whereby to take [Page] them without the pursuit of dogs; to the knowledge whereof I shall refer the reader to Blondus, Oppianus, Gesner, Turbervile, and many others both antient and modern writers, who have largely treated on this subject.

Of the Nature and Properties of a Bear, and after what manner Hunted.

THere are two sorts of Bears, a greater and lesser; the last is more apt to climb trees than the other.

Bears are bred in many countries; in the Helvetian Alpine region they are so strong and courageous, that they can tear in pieces both oxen and horses; for which cause the inhabitants are studiously laborious in the taking them.

A Bear is of a most venereous and lustful disposition; for night and day the females with most ardent inflam'd desires do provoke the males to copulation; and for this cause at that time they are most fierce and angry. The time of their copulation is in the beginning of winter, and the manner of it is like to a man's; the male moving himself upon the belly of the female, which lieth flat on her back, and they embrace each other with their fore-feet: they remain a very long time in that act; in so much (as some have observed, how true I cannot say) that if they were very fat at their first entrance, they dis-joyn not themselves again till they be lean.

There is a strange report in history, (if it be true) That in the mountains of Savoy a Bear carried a young maid into his den by violence, where in a venereal [Page] manner he had the carnal use of her body; and while he kept her in his den, he daily went forth and brought her the best fruits he could get, presenting them to her as food, as courtly as he could do it; but always when he went to forrage, he rowled a very great stone to the mouth of his den, that the virgin should not make her escape from him: at length her parents, with long search, found their daughter in the Bear's den, who delivered her from that beastial captivity.

They are naturally very cruel and mischievous unto all tame beasts, and are very strong in all parts of their body but their head, whereon a small blow will kill them.

They go to mate in the beginning of the winter, some sooner, some later, according to their rest and feeding; and their heat lasteth not passing fifteen days.

When the she-Bear perceiveth her self with whelp, she withdraws her self into some cave, or hollow rock, and there remains till she brings forth her whelps, where without meat they grow very fat, especially the males, onely by sucking their fore-feet. When they enter into their den, they convey themselves backward, that so they may put out their foot-steps from the sight of the hunters.

The nature of all of them is to avoid cold, and therefore in the winter-time they hide themselves, chusing rather to suffer famine than cold; lying for the most part three or four months together and never see the light, whereby in a manner their guts are clung together: coming forth, they are so dazled by long darkness, being in the light again, that they stagger and reel to and fro; and then by a secret instinct they remedy the straightness of their guts by eating an herb called Arum, in English Wake-robbin or Calvesfoot, [Page] by the acidity whereof their guts are enlarged; and being recovered, they remain more fierce and cruel than at other times, during the time their young are with them: and this is the herb, some say, which they eat to make them sleep so long in winter without sense of cold or hunger.

They are whelped most commonly in March, sometimes two, and not above five in number; the most part of them are dead one whole day after they are whelped; but the Bear doth so lick them and warm them with her breath, and hug them in her bosom, that she quickly revives them again.

It is commonly received as a truth, (though it be a palpable vulgar errour) That the whelps of Bears at their first littering are without all form and fashion, and nothing but a little congealed blood like a lump of flesh, which afterwards the old one frameth with her tongue by licking them to her own likeness. This opinion may be easily disproved; for they are onely littered blind without hair, and the hinder-legs not perfect, the forefeet folded up like a fist, and other members deformed, by reason of the immoderate humour or moistness in them; which also is one cause why she cannot retain in her womb the seed to the perfection of the young ones, whereof Joachimus Rheticus is an eye-witness.

As soon as the dam perceiveth her cubs to grow strong, she suckleth them no longer, by reason of their curstness; for they will sorely bite her if they cannot get suck enough. After this she preyeth abroad upon any thing she can meet with, which she eates, and casts up again to her young ones, and so feeds them till they can prey for themselves: They will climb a tree for the fruit.

If they be hunted, they will follow a man, but not run upon him unless they are wounded. They are [Page] very strong in their paws, in such sort, that they will so hug a man or dog till they have broke his back, or squeez'd his guts out of his belly: with a single paw they will pull a lusty dog to their tearing and devouring mouth. They bite very severely; for they will bite a man's head to the very brains; and for an arm or leg, they will crash it as a dog may do a slender bone of mutton.

When they are hunted, they are so heavy that they make no speed, and so are always in sight of the dogs. They stand not at bay as a Boar, but fly wallowing; but if the hounds stick in, they will fight valiantly in their own defence; sometimes they stand up straight on their hinder-feet, and then take that as a sign of fear and cowardize; they fight stoutest and strongest on all four.

They have an excellent scent, and smell further off than any other beast except the Boar; for in a whole forest they will smell out a tree laden with mast.

They may be hunted with hounds, mastiffs, or grey-hounds; and they are chased and kill'd with bows, Boar-spears, darts, and swords; so are they also taken in snares, caves, and pits, with other engines.

They do naturally abide in great mountains; but when it snoweth, or in hard weather, then they descend into valleys and forests for provision. They cast their lesses sometimes in round croteys, and sometimes flat like a bullock, according to their feeding.

They go sometimes a gallop, and at other times an amble; but they go most at case when they wallow.

When they come from their feeding they beat commonly the high-ways and beaten paths: and wheresoever they go out of the high-ways, there you may be sure they are gone to their dens; for they use no doublings nor subtilties.

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They tumble and wallow in water and mire as swine, and they feed like a dog. Some say their flesh is very good food, let who will eat it for me, who are not so nicely palated as my self.

The best finding of a Bear is with a leam-hound; and yet he who is without one may trail after a Bear as we do after a Buck or Roe, and you may lodge and hunt them as you do a Buck. For the more speedy execution, mingle mastiffs among your hounds; for they will pinch the Bear, and so provoke her to anger, until at last they bring her to the bay; or else drive her out of the plain into the covert, not letting her be at rest till she fight in her own defence.

Of the Beaver.

A Beaver differeth but a little from an Otter but in his tail: his colour is somewhat yellow and white aspersed with ash-colour, which stand out beyond the shorter hairs, double their length; and are neat and soft like an Otters.

There is plenty of them in the river Pontus, whence the Beaver by some is called Canis Ponticus: They are also bred in Spain, some few in France, Germany, Polonia, Sclavonia, Russia, Prussia, Lithuania; and abundance of them in New-England.

These beasts are amphibious, living both on land and water both fresh and salt, keeping the last in the daytime, and the first in the night: Without water they cannot live; for they participate much of the nature of fish, which may be gathered from their tails and hinder-legs.

They are about the bigness of a country cur; [Page] their head short; their ears small and round; their teeth very long, the under-teeth standing out beyond their lips three fingers breadth, and the upper about half a finger, being very broad, crooked, strong, and sharp, standing very deep in their mouth, wherewith they defend themselves against beasts, take fishes as it were upon hooks, and will gnaw in sunder trees as big as a man's thigh.

Their fore-feet are like dogs, and their hinder like geese, made as it were on purpose to go on the land, and swim in the water; but the tail of this beast is most strange of all, being without hair, and covered over with a skin like the scales of a fish, it being like a Soal, and for the most part six fingers broad, and half a foot long. They are accounted a very delicate dish, and eat like Barbels: the manner of their dressing is by roasting them first, and boiling or stewing them afterwards; they must be food that is very sweet, since this proverb proceeded from them: Sweet is that fish which is no fish at all.

As for the wonderful manner of their building, I shall let that alone, since it is at large described by Gesner in his History of Beasts, page 36.

There is nothing so valuable in this beast as his stones; for they are in great esteem, and a precious commodity.

It hath been the opinion of some, that when a Beaver is hunted, and is in danger to be taken, he biteth off his own stones, knowing that for them onely is he thus pursued: but this is found to be a meer fiction; for their stones being small, and placed like a Boar's, it is impossible for them to come at them.

They are taken for their skins, tails, and cods, and that many ways. First, when their caves are found: (in which are several chambers built one over another by the water-side, to ascend or descend according [Page] as the water riseth or falleth) I say, their abode being found, they make a breach therein, wherein is put a little dog, which the Beaver perceiving, flies instantly to the end of her cave, and there defendeth her self with her teeth, till all her building be raised, and she laid open to her enemies, who kill her with instruments for that purpose. These dogs for the Beaver are the same which hunt Otters.

They cannot dive long time under water, but must put up their heads for breath; which being seen by those who are hunting them, they kill them with gunshot or Otter-spears: His nature is, if he hear any noise, to put up his head above water, whereby he is discovered, and so loseth life. Those skins are best which are blackest.

Of the Elk.

THis beast is twice as big as a Hart, whose upperlip is so great, and hangeth over the nether so far, that he cannot eat going forward; but as he eateth he goeth backward, and so gathereth up his sustenance.

His mane is divers both on the top of his neck, and underneath his throat, which buncheth like a beard, or curled lock of hair; his neck is very short, disproportionable to his body.

He hath two very large horns bending towards the back in a plain edge, and the spires stand forward to the face: both males and females have them; they are solid at the root and round, but afterwards branched; they are broader than a Hart's, and are very heavy, being not above two foot long; and these [Page] horns they mew every year: He is colour'd for the most part like a Heart, and hath cloven feet, but without joynts (like an Elephant) in his fore-legs, and therefore sleepeth leaning to posts or trees; and fighteth not with his horns, but fore-feet.

It is a most timorous creature, not desiring to stir much, unless provok'd thereunto by hunting. There is no danger in hunting this beast, except a man come right before him: for if this beast fasten his fore-feet on him, he cannot escape alive; but if it receive any small wound, it instantly dies.

They are taken by nets and toils, or as Elephants are taken: for when they have found the trees where-unto they lean, they so cut and saw them, that when the Elk cometh, he overthroweth the tree and falleth with it; and being not able to rise, is so taken alive. When they are chased eagerly, and can find no place to rest themselves in and lie secret, they run to the waters, and therein stand, taking up waters into their mouths; and in a little time do so heat it, that squirting it out upon the dogs, the heat thereof so scaldeth them, that they dare not come nigh or approach them any more.

Many more exotick beasts I might here insert, describing their natures, and the manner of their Forrain hunting; but, since they are not to be found in England, let these suffice which I have already described.

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Dogs Diseases Remedied, and their Hurts Healed, according to the best Prescriptions of Ancient and Modern Huntsmen.

Of a Five-fold Madness in a Dog: the Symptoms of the Maladies, and their CVRE.

THe ancients have derived Rabies, Madness, from Ravies, hoarseness of voice, for mad dogs have no perfect voice: but it is more probable, that Rabies cometh à Rapiendo; because when a dog beginneth to go mad; he biteth, runneth, snatcheth, and roves to and fro, to his own perdition. A mad dog is most dangerous in the Dog-days; for at that time the very foam or spittle falling on a man breeds danger.

There are properly seven sorts of Madnesses which afflict a dog, whereof two of them are incurable, and therefore I shall speak little of them; onely so much as may give you warning to shift them from your other dogs, because their disease is infectious; and that you may beware of them your self, lest they injure you; for their biting is dangerous.

The first of these incurable Madnesses is called the Hot burning Madness, and is known by these symptoms. First, when they run, they raise their tails bolt-upright, and run upon any thing that stands before them, having no respect where nor which way they run: also their mouths will be very black, having no foam in nor about them. They will not continue thus above three or four days, after which time they die, their pain being so intolerable. Where note, that [Page] all those dogs they have bitten and drew blood from, will be mad in like manner.

The second is called the running Madness, and is less dangerous, however incurable. The dogs that are troubled with this madness run not on men, but dogs, and on no other beasts. The symptoms are, they will smell on other dogs, and having smelt them, will shake and bite them, yet shaking their tails, and seeming to offer no harm: with other tokens I omit for brevity sake.

Of the Dumb Madness.

The five Madnesses (or rather Sicknesses) which are curable, are these:

The first is called the Dumb madness, and is thus known: the dog that is troubled therewith will not feed, but holds his mouth wide open continually, putting his feet to his mouth frequently, as if he had a bone in his throat.

The cure is thus: Take four ounces of the juice of Spathula putrida, and put it into a pot; then take the like quantity of the juice of black Hellebore, and as much of the juice of Rue: having strained them all well through a fine cloath, put them into a glass: then take two drams of Scammony unprepared, and having mingled it with the former juices, put it into a horn or funnel, and convey it down his throat, keeping his head up straight, lest he cast it up again: then bleed him in the mouth, cutting three or four veins in his gums that he may bleed the better; and in a short time you will find amendment. Or you may onely take eight drams of the juice of an herb called Harts-horn, or Dogs-tooth, and you will find it a most excellent receipt against any madness whatsoever.

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Of the Falling Madness.

The second is called the Falling Madness: the disease lieth in their heads, which maketh them reel as they go, and fall.

The cure is thus: Take four ounces of the juice of Piony, with the like quantity of the juice of Briony, the like of the juice of Cruciata, and four drams of Stavesacre pulverized: mingle these together, and give it your hound or dog as aforesaid: then let him blood in the cars or the two veins which come down the shoulders; and if he is not cured at first, give it him a second or third time.

Of the Lank Madness.

The third kind of madness is called the Lank Madness, by reason of the leanness of their bodies occasioned by skummering.

The cure is thus: First, purge your dog with this portion: Take an ounce and a half of Cassia fistularis well cleansed, two drams and a half of Stavesacre pulverized, and the like quantity of Scammony prepared in White-wine-vinegar, and four ounces of Oyl-olive; temper these and warm them over the Fire, and give it your dog. In the morning put him into this bath fasting as followeth: Put into six pails full of water ten handfuls of Mugwort, of Rosemary, of red-Sage, of the roots or leaves of Marsh-mallows, of the roots or leaves of Wall-wort, of the roots or stalks of Fennel, of the leaves or stalks of Elecampane, Baulm and Rue, Sorrel, Bugloss and Mellilot; let these boil together in two thirds of water and the other Wine, until one third be consumed: the bath being no hotter than your dog can endure it, bathe him [Page] therein for the space of an hour; then taking him out, put him in some warm place for sear of catching cold. Do this four or five times in the same bath, and it will cure.

Of the Sleeping Madness.

The fourth Madness is called the Sleeping Madness, and is caused by some little Worms breeding in the mouth of the Stomack from corrupt Humours, the vapours and sumes whereof ascending into the head, make the dog sleep continually, and frequently he dieth sleeping.

For the cure, you must take five ounces of the juice of Wormwood, with two ounces of the powder of Harts-horn burned, and two drams of Agarick: mingle these together; and if they be too thick, thin them with White-wine, and give it your dog to drink.

Of the Rhcumatick or Slavering Madness.

This Madness is called so, because, when a dog hath got it, his head swelleth, his eyes are as yellow as a Kite's-foot, and he commonly slavereth at the mouth.

The Cure is thus: Take six ounces of the juice of Fennel-roots, and the like quantity of the juice of Misseltoe, four ounces of the juice of lvy, four ounces of the powder of the roots of Polypodie; boil these in White-wine, and give it your dog to drink as hot as he can suffer it.

Here note, that when a dog hath any of these kinds of Madnesses he will have no desire to eat, fasting frequently eight or nine days, and so starving to death. Nay, if they are troubled with any distemper they will refuse their meat, nay, the daintiest bit you can give them, until they have eaten grass, and have cleared [Page] their stomack of what did offend it, and then they will eat.

Concerning the Madness of Dogs, and their Venomous Bitings.

I think no reasonable man ought to question why the teeth of a mad dog should do more harm than those of a sound one; because in rage and anger the teeth of every beast and creature receive venome and poison from the head, whereby when they bite at that time they do much more harm.

Against the simple biting of a dog, take the urine of a dog, which is sufficient, since there is but little venome in those wounds. To lay the hair of the same dog thereon, (though so much talkt on) I look upon as a meer foppery. Or being bit by a dog, take vinegar, and with your hand rub the wound very well; then pour into it vinegar mixed with water or Nitre; then wet a spunge in the same liquids, and so let it remain bound up three days; then take Pellitory of the wall, mingled and beaten with Salt, or any other plaister for green wounds.

Divers are the cures and remedies for biting of mad dogs; which I omit in this place, as belonging not to my subject, but to Physick.

A Remedy against the common Mange.

This distemper befalls a dog frequently for want of fresh water to drink when he desires it, and sometimes by foul kennelling, and sometimes by foundering and melting his greace.

You may cure it in this manner: Take two handfuls of wild Cresses, two handfuls of Elecampane, and as much of the leaves and roots of Roerb and [Page] Sorrel, and two pound of the roots of Frodels; make them all boil well in lye and vinegar: having strained the decoction, put therein two pound of gray soap; and when it is melted therein, then rub your degs with it four or five days together, and it will cure them.

A brief Discourse of the Cure of Maladies belonging to Spaniels, with other accidents happening.

HOw necessary a thing a Spaniel is to Faulconry, and for those that delight in that noble recreation, keeping Hawks for their pastime and pleasure, I think no body need question, as well to spring and retrive a fowl being flown to the mark, as also divers other ways to help and assist Faulcons and Goshawks.

Now since they are subject to many diseases and casualties, I shall endeavour to propound a suitable cure for them; and first, I shall begin with the Mange, as the capital enemy to the quiet and beauty of a brave Spaniel, wherewith poor creatures they are often grievously tormented, and as frequently infect others.

For the cure of this distemper, take a pound of Barrow-flick, common Oil three ounces, Brimstone well pulverized foar ounces, Salt well beaten to powder, Ashes well sifted and searced, of each two ounces; boil all these in a kettle or earthen-pot, and when they are all well incorporated together, anoint your Spaniel with this thrice every other day, either against the Sun or Fire: having so done, wash him all over with good strong Lye, and this will kill the Mange. Remember you shift his kennel and litter often.

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If the Spaniel lose its Hair, as it often happens, then bathe your Spaniel in the water of Lupines or Hops, and anoint him with stale Barrows-flick.

This ointment, besides the cure, maketh his skin look slick and beautiful, and kills the fleas, the dogs disquieters, and enemies to his ease.

If this be not strong enough to destroy this malady, then take two quarts of strong vinegar, common oil six ounces, brimstone three ounces, soot six ounces, brayd salt and searced two handfuls: boil all these together in the vineger, and anoint your dog as aforesaid. This receipt must not be administred in cold weather, for it may hazard his life in so doing.

If a Spaniel be not much troubled with the Mange, then it is easie to cure him thus:

Make bread with wheaten-bran, with the roots, leaves, and fruit of Agrimony, beating them well in a mortar, and, making it into a paste or dough, bake it in an oven, and so made, give thereof to your Spaniel, giving him no other bread for some time, letting him eat as long as he will.

Cure of the Formica.

In the summer-time there is a scurvy malady which very much afflicts a Spaniel's ears, and is accasioned by flies and their own scratching with their feet: We term it a Mange, the Italians, Formica, and the French, Fourmier.

For the cure, take Gum-dragaganth four ounces infused in the strongest Vinegar may be gotten, for the space of eight days, and afterwards bruised on a marble-stone, as painters do their colours, adding unto it Roch-allum and Galls beaten to powder, of either two ounces; mingle all these well together, and lay it on the place afflicted.

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For Swelling in the Throat.

By reason of a humour distilling from the brain, the throat of a Spaniel will often swell unreasonably. For cure whereof, anoint the grieved place with oil of Camomile; then wash it with vinegar not over-strong mixed with salt. Probatum est.

Of Worms breeding in the Hurts and Mangy parts of a Spaniel.

These worms do hinder the cure of the mange or wounds, causing them to continue at one stay, or to grow worse and worse. To remove this hindrance, take the gum of Ivy and convey it into the wound, and let it there remain a day or two, washing the wound with Wine; and after that anoint it with Bacon-grease, oil of Earth-worms, and Rue.

The powder of wild Cucumbers is excellent good to kill these worms, and will prove a good corrosive, also eating away the dead flesh, and increasing the good.

If the worms be within the body, you must destroy them in this manner: Cause your Spaniel, by fair means or foul, when fasting, to eat the yolk of an egg with two scruples of Saffron pulverized and confected with the same egg, keeping him after it fasting till night.

When a Spaniel is hurt, as long as he can come to lick the wound with his tongue he needs no other remedy; his tongue is his best Chirurgeon: but when he cannot do that, then such wounds as are not venomous you may cure with the powder of Matresilva dried in an oven, or in the Sun. If it be a bite of a Fox, anoint it with oil wherein Earth-worms and Rue have been boiled together. If by a mad dog, let him lap twice or thrice of the [Page] broth of Germander, and eat the Germander too boiled.

Others bore the skin of his neck through with a hot-Iron just betwixt his ears, so as the fire may touch both sides of the hole made: after that, plucking up the skin of the dog's shoulders and flanks backwards, thrust it through with a hot-Iron in like manner: by giving the venom this vent, it is a ready way to cure him.

To help a Spaniel that hath lost his sense of Smelling.

Spaniels, sometimes, by reason of too much rest and grease, or some other accident, do lose their sense of smelling, so as they cannot spring or retrive a fowl after their usual manner: To recover it again, take Agarick two drams, Sal Gemma one scruple; beat these into powder, and incorporate them with Oxymel, making a pill as big as a nut, cover it with butter, and give it the dog by fair means or foul. This will bring him into a quick scent, as I have oftentimes proved it.

The benefit of cutting off the tip of a Spaniel's Tail or Stern.

It is necessary for several reasons to cut off the tip of a Spaniel's stern when it is a whelp. First, by so doing worms are prevented from breeding there; in the next place, if it be not cut, he will be the less forward in pressing hastily into the covert after his game; besides this benefit, the dog appears more beautiful.

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An Abstract of such Penal LAWS As relate to HUNTERS and HUNTING.

STat. 13 R. 2. cap. 13. No man who hath not lands of 40 s. per ann. nor Clerk who hath not 10 l. revenue per an. shall have or keep any Grey-hound, Hound, Dog, Ferret, Net, or Engine to destroy Deer, Hares, Coneys, or any other Gentlemans Game, in pain of one whole years imprisoment, which Iustices of Peace have power to inflict.

Stat. 1 H. 7. cap. 7. If any shall hunt within Forests, Parks, or Warrens in the night-time, or disguised, one of the Kings Council, or a Iustice of Peace to whom information shall be made, shall by his Warrant cause the Offender to be brought before himself, or some other Councellor or Iustice of Peace to be examined; where if he conceal the Fact, such hunting shall be deemed Felony; but being confessed, the Offence is onely Finable at the next general Sessions. And here a Rescous of the Execution of any such Warrant shall be also deemed Felony.

Stat. 19 H. 7. cap. 11. None shall keep any Deer-hays, or Buck-stalls (save in his own Forest or Park) in pain to forfeit for every [Page] Month they are so kept 40 s. Neither shall any stalk with any Bush or Beast to any Deer, except in his own Forest or Park, on pain of 10 l.

Stat. 14, 15 H. 8. cap. 10. None shall trace, destroy, or kill any Hare in the Snow, in pain of 6 s. 8 d. for every such Offence: which penalty assessed in Sessions shall go to the King; but in a Leet, to the Lord thereof.

Stat. 3 Jacob. cap. 13. None shall (without the Owners License) kill or chase any Deer or Coneys in any Parks, or inclosed Grounds, in pain to suffer three months imprisonment, to pay treble damages to the party grieved, and to be bound with two good Sureties to the good behaviour for seven years: But the party grieved, having satisfaction, hath liberty to release the Behaviour.

II. By the same Statute it appears, that if any person not having 40 l. per annum in Lands, or 200 l. in Goods, or some inclosed Ground used for Deer or Coneys worth 40 s. per ann. at least, shall use any Gun, Bow, or Cross-bow to kill any Deer or Coneys, or shall keep any Buck-stall, Ferret, Dog, Net, or other Engine, it shall be lawful for any person (having Lands worth 100 l. per ann.) to take such Gun, &c. from any such person, and to convert it to his own use.

Stat. 13 Car. 2. cap. 20. None shall unlawfully Course, Kill, Hunt, or carry away any Deer in any Forest, Chase, Purliew, Wood, Park, or other Ground where Deer have been usually kept, within England and Wales, without the consent of the Owners or Party [Page] chiefly trusted with the custody thereof, or he aiding or assisting therein, upon pain, being convicted by confession, or one Witness, before any Istice of the Peace within sit months after the Offence, of 201. to be levied by distress by Warrant of the said Iustices: one moity to the Informer, the other to the Owner of the Deer: And for want of distress, to be committed to the House of Correction, or common Goal, for one year, and not discharged till sufficient Sureties be given for the good behaviour.

II. It is nevertheless provided, that upon punishment of this Statute the penalty of no other Law be incurred.

Stat. 22 & 23 Car. 2. cap. 25. It is Enacted, That all Lords of Mannours or other Royalties, not under the degree of an Esquire, may by Writing under their Hands and Seals, authorize one or more Game-keepers within their respective Mannours or Royalties; who being thereunto so authorized, may take and seize all such Guns, Bows, Grey-hounds, Setting-dogs, Lurchers, or other Dogs to kill Hares or Coneys, Ferrets, Crammels, Low-bells, Hayes, or other Dets, Hare-pipes, Snares, or other Engines for the taking and killing of Coneys, Hares, Pheasants, Partridges, or other Game, as within the Precincts of such respective Mannours shall be used by any person or persons who by this Act are prohibited to keep or use the same. And if any person or persons by this Act prohibited to keep or use any Guns, Dogs, &c. as aforesaid, be upon good ground suspected to have [Page] or keep in his or their custody, any Guns, Bows, or any sort of Dogs, &c. to destroy Hares, Coneys, &c. Then may the said Game-keeper or Game-keepers, or other person (being thereunto Authorized by Warrant under the Hand and Seal of any Iustice of the Peace of the same County, Division, or Place) in the daytime, search the Houses, Dut-houses, or other places of such persons so suspected: and if any Gun, Grey-hound, Bows, Setting-dogs, &c. be there found, the same he shall seize, detain, and keep, to and for the use of the Lord of the Mannour or Royalty where the same shall be so found or taken; or otherwise to cut in pieces or destroy, as things by this Act prohibited to be kept by their degree.

II. None having Lands or Cenements, or some other Estate of Inheritance in his own or his Wifes right, of the clear value of 1001. per ann. or for term of life, or having Lease or Leases of 99 years at least of the clear value of 1501. Nor the Son and heir apparent of an Esquire, or other person of higher degree, who are hereby declared to be the persons declared by the Laws of this Realm not allowed to have or keep any Guns, Bows, Grey-hounds, Setting-dogs, ferrets, Coney-dogs, Lurchers, Hays, Dets, Low-bells, Hare-pipes, Snares, or other Engines aforesaid: But shall be, and are hereby prohibited to have, keep, or use the same. All Owners and Keepers of Forests, Parks, Warrens, or Chases, being stockt with Deer or Coneys for their necessary [Page] use, in respect of the said Forests, Parks, Warrens, or Chases are allowed to keep, &c.

III. None may enter wrongfully into any Warren or ground lawfully used or kept for the breeding or keeping of Coneys; (although the same be not enclosed) nor take, kill, or chase any Coneys there without the consent of the Owner thereof, not having any lawful Title or Authority so to do, on pain to yield to the party grieved treble damages and cost; besides shall suffer three months Imprisonment, and after till they find Sureties for their good abearing: the person offending being convict by one Witness upon Dath, or his own confession is sufficient.

IV. No person or persons shall take in the night-time any Coneys upon the borders of any Warren, or other grounds, lawfully used for the breeding or keeping of any Coneys, except such as shall be owners of the Soil, or lawful occupier or possessor of the ground, or any persons employed by him, her, or them, whereon such Coneys shall be so killed or taken; upon pain that every Offender, lawfully convict as aforesaid, shall give the party or parties injured such recompence or satisfaction for his or their damages, and within such time as shall be appointed by the Justice before whom such Offender shall be convicted; and over and above pay down presently to the Overseers for the use of the Poor of the Parish where such Offence shall be committed, such sum of mony, not exceeding 10 s. as the said Justice shall think meet. And if such Offender or Offenders do not [Page] make recompence or satisfaction to the said party or parties injured, and also pay the said sum to the Poor as aforesaid; then the said Justice shall commit the said Offender or Offendors to the House of Correction, for such time as the said Justice shall think fit, not exceeding one month.

V. Provided that what is mentioned in this Act of 22 & 23 Car. 2. extend not to abridge any Royalty or Prerogative of his Majesty; nor to abridge, change, or alter any Forest-Laws, but the same to be of force, and remain as if this Act had not been made.

A further Abstract of some Penal LAWS as concern FORESTS, CHASES, &c.

I. There shall be three Swainmotes in the Year, viz. one 15 days before Michaelmass; another about Martinmass; and the third 15 days before Midsummer. At the first two of which none shall appear by distress, but the Fosters, Uerdors, and Gest-takers; and at the other onely the Fosters and Uerdors: howbeit the Fosters and Uerdors shall meet every forty days, to see the Attachment of the Forests, as well for Green-hue, as Hunting: And the Swainmotes shall not be kept, but in the Counties where they have used to be kept.

II. Lawing of Dogs shall be made in Forests, from 3 years to 3 years by the view and testimony of lawful men, and not otherwise: Howheit such Lawing of Dogs shall not be [Page] but where it hath been used from the Coronation of Hen. 2d.

III. No Foster or Beadie shall make Scotal, or gather Garhe, Oats, Lamb, or Pig, but by the sight of the 12 Rangers when they shall make their Range: And there shall be so many Rangers assigned for the keeping of Forests, as shall seem reasonably sufficient for the same.

IV. Any person having a Wood in the Forest may agest it, and take his pawnage there at his pleasure; he may also drive his Dogs through the Kings Woods, or elsewhere for that purpose; and if they ly all night in the Forest, he shall not be questioned for it.

V. None shall lose Life or Member for killing of Deer, but shall be fined for it if he have any thing; if not, he shall be imprisoned a year and a day: and (if he can find good Sureties) shall then be delivered; but if not, he shall absure the Realm.

VI. A Peer of the Realm, being sent for by the King, in coming and returning may kill a Deer or two in the Forest through which he passeth: howbeit, it must not be done privily, but by the view of the Foster, if present; but if absent, by causing one ta blow a Norn for him, lest he seem to steal the Deer.

VII. No Chimage or Coll shall be taken in Forests, but by a Forester in fee, that farms his Bailiwick, and onely of such as buy their Bushes, Cimber, Bark, or Coals, to sell it again, viz. 2 d. for a Cart, and 1 d. for an Dorse, to be taken half-yearly; and it shall onely he taken where it hath used to [Page] be taken, and not elsewhere: Neither shall any Chimage be taken of such as carry burthens of Bushes, Bark or Coal, albeit they sell it, unless they take them out of the Kings Demesne Woods. Thus far Charta Foresta.

A Forester, Parker, or Warrener shall not be questioned for killing a Crespasser, who (after the peace cryed to him) will not yield himself, so it be not done out of some other former malice. Stat. 21 Ed. 1.

No Minister of the Forest shall be put upon any Assize, Iury, or Inquest to be taken without the Forest. Ordin. Forestae.

Stat. 1 Ed. 3. cap. 8. None shall be taken or Imprisoned for Uert or Uenison, unless he be taken with the manner, or else indicted according to the form of the Stat. 34. Ed. 1. And then the Warden of the Forest shall take him to Mainprise, until the Eyre of the Forest, without taking any thing for his deliberance. And if the Warden will not so do, he shall have a Writ out of the Chancery of Old ordained for persons indicted to be bailed till the Eyre.

Stat. 1 Ed. 3. cap. 2. Any man having Wood within the Forest, may take Horse-boot and Hay-boot in his said Wood, without being Attached for the same by the Ministers of the Forest, so that it be done by the view of the Foresters.

Stat. 7. R. 2. cap. 4. No Officer of the Forest shall take or imprison any without due Indictment, or per main ouvre (with his hand at the work) that is, being taken with the manner, or trespassing in the Forest; nor shall constrain any to make Obligation or [Page] Ransome against his will, and the Assise of the Forest, in pain to pay the party grieved double damages, and to be ransomed at the King's will.

16 & 17 Car. cap. 16. An Act for the certainty of Forests, and of the Meers, limits and bounds thereof: See the Statute at large.

17 Car. cap. 16. No place within England or Wales, where no Justice Seat, Swainmote, Court, or Attachment hath been made, or Uindosers chosen, or Regard made within 20 years, shall be accounted Forest.

II. Tenants and Owners of all excluded Land, shall enjoy their common and other profits.

Stat. 20. Car. 2. cap. 3. Ten Thousand Acres of waste Lands in the Forest of Dean shall be enclosed, and kept in severalty, for the growth and preservation of Timber; and be under the regard and Government of Forest Law.

FINIS.

2

§

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THE GENTLEMAN's Recreation: BEING A TREATISE OF HAWKING AND Faulconry. Fitted for the Delight and Pleasure of all Noblemen and Gentlemen. Collected from Ancient and Modern Authors, and Rectified by the Experience of the most Skilful Artists of these Times. With an Abstract of such Statute-Laws as concern this Recreation.

The Second Part.

London: Printed by J C. and F. C. for N. C.

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OF HAWKING.
The Introduction.

THe Element wherein the Faulconer useth to trade, is the Air; and though he dealeth sometimes in the Water, yet he prefers the Air before it, that yielding him most Recreation; for it is unable to stop the high soaring of his generous Faulcon: in it she flies to such a height, that, being lost to the sight of Mortals, she seems to converse with Heaven alone; and, like Icarus, endangers her Wings to be scorcht by the Sun-beams; and yet is fearless, cutting the fluid Air with her nimble Pinions, making her High-way over the steepest Mountains and deepest Rivers, and in her lofty career looks down with a seeming contempt on the greatest Glories we most estimate: and yet such is her Loyalty and Obedience to her Master, that a word from his mouth shall make her stoop and condescend.

This Element of Air is not onely to be praised for the Recreation it affords the Faulconers, but for its Usefulness to all, no creature being in a condition to live without it: for if the inspiring or expiring Organ of any [Page] creature be stopt, it must speedily die, and pay the Debt that's due to Nature.

And as this Element justly merits praise, so do its wing'd Inhabitants, both feeding and refreshing Mankind: with their Bodies they perform the first, and the latter with their harmonious Voices.

The number of Heaven's airy Quire is so great, I cannot here well enumerate them; yet I must not pass by these nimble Musicians of the Air, which warble forth such curious Notes as puzzle Art to imitate.

I mean to speak of few, and first of the Lark: When she means to recreate her self and hearers, she quits the Earth, and sings as she ascends; and having made an end of her heavenly Ditty, she seems to swound to think she must descend again unto the dull Earth, which she would scorn to tread but for necessity.

Again, observe how the Black-bird and the Thrush contend who shall with their unimitable Voices bid the best welcome to the fragrant Spring.

Nor doth the Nightingale come short in breathing out her loud Musick through the small Organ of her Throat. How have I oft admired in a still night the clearness of her Airs, the sweetness of her Descants, her natural Risings and Fallings, her Doublings and Redoublings!

Much more might be said of these, which I shall wave, being a digression from my purpose, which is to treat of another Bird of Pleasure, viz. the Hawk

HEre note, that the Hawk is distinguished into two kindes; the Long-winged, and Short-winged Hawk.

[Page]Of the first kind there are these, which are here amongst us most in use:

The Gerfaulcon and Jerkin,

Faulcon and Tiercel-gentle,

Lanner and Lanneret,

Bockerel and Bockeret,

Saker and Sakaret,

Merlin and Jack-merlin,

Hobby and Jack,

The Stelletto of Spain,

The bloud-red Rook of Turkie,

The Waskite from Virginia.

Of the Short-winged Hawks there are these:

The Eagle and Iron,

Goshawk and Tiercel,

The Sparrow-hawk and Musket,

Two sorts of the French Pie.

Of inferiour sort there are these:

The Stanyel or Ring-tail,

The Raven and Buzzard,

The Forked Kite and bold Buzzard,

The Hen-driver, &c.

It is not to be expected that we should treat of all these and many others bearing different Names, but onely such which are most in use, of which I shall regularly treat concerning their Eyries, Mewings, Castings, Renovation of Feathers, &c. with their Reclaiming, Dieting, Diseases, Cures, and Method of Practice.

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Terms of Art in Faulconry, as they were used by Ancient Faulconers, and are now by Modern Practitioners, with their Explanations.

THe Age of a Hawk:

The first year, a Soarage.

The second year, an Enterview.

The third year, a White Hawk.

The fourth year, a Hawk of the first Coat.

Arms, are the Legs from the Thigh to the Foot.

Bate, is when the Hawk fluttereth with her Wings either from Pearch to Fist, as it were striving to get away.

Bathing, is when the Hawk washeth her self at home or abroad.

Beak, is the upper part of the Bill that is crooked.

Beam Feathers, are the long Feathers of the Hawk Wings.

Beavy of Quails, are a brood of young Quails.

Bewits, are the Leathers with Bells buttoned about the Hawks Legs.

Binding, is tyring, or when a Hawk seizeth.

Bowet, is when a young Hawk draws any thing out of her Nest, and covets to clamber on the bowes.

Bowsing, is when the Hawk drinks often, and yet continually thirsteth for more.

Branch or Stand, is to make the Hawk leap from Tree to Tree till the Dog springs the Partridge.

[Page]Brancher, is a young Hawk newly taken out of the Nest.

Cadge, is that circular piece of Wood on which Hawks are carried when they are exposed to sale.

Canceleer, is when a high-flown Hawk in her stooping turneth two or three times upon the wing, to recover her self before she seizeth.

Carry, is flying away with the Quarry.

Cast your Hawk to the Pearch, is to put your Hawk on the Pearch.

Casting, is when you give your Hawk any thing to cleanse and purge her Gorge.

Carvist; a Hawk may be so called at the beginning of the year, and signifies as much as to carry on the Fist.

Catarast, a Disease in Hawks so called.

Cauterizing-Irons, are Irons to sear with.

Cawking-time, is Treading-time.

Crabbing, is when Hawks, standing too near, fight with one another.

Creance, is a fine small long Line of strong and evenwound Pack-thread which is fastned to the Hawk's Lease or Leash when she is first Lured.

Check, that is when the Hawk forsakes her proper Game to fly at Pies, Crows, or the like, crossing her in her flight.

Clap, is the nether part of the Hawk's Beak.

Coping-Irons, are used in coping or paring the Hawks Beak, Pounces, or Talons, when over-grown.

Cowring, is when young Hawks quiver and shake their Wings, in testimony of obedience towards the old ones.

Crinets, are the small black Feathers like Hairs about the Sere.

Disclosed, is when the young just peep through the shell.

[Page]Dropping, is when the Hawk muteth directly downward in several drops, not yerking it streight forwards.

Endew, is when the Hawk digesteth her meat, that she not onely dischargeth her Gorge thereof, but likewise cleanseth her Pannel.

Enseame, is the purging of a Hawk of her glut and Grease.

Enter a Hawk is when she first begins to kill.

Eyess, is a young Hawk newly taken out of the Nest, not able to prey for himself.

Eyrie, is that place where Hawks build, and hatch their young.

Feaking, is when the Hawk wipeth her Beak after feeding.

Filanders, a sort of little red Worms that usually breed in Hawks.

Flags, Feathers next the principal Feathers in the Hawk's Wing.

Fly on head, is missing her Quarry, and betaking her self to the next Check, as Crows, &c.

Formale, is the Female-Hawk.

Formica, a Disease in Hawks so called.

Frounce, is a Disease common in the Mouth or Throat of a Hawk.

Gleam, after a Hawk hath cast, she Gleamith, or throweth up filth from her Gorge.

Glut, is the slimy substance that lies in the Hawks Pannel.

Gorge, is called in other Fowl the Craw or Crop.

Gurgiting, is when she is stust and suffecated.

Hack, is the place where the Hawk's Meat is laid.

[Page]Hawk keeps her mark, is when she wait at the place where she lays in Partridge, or the like, until it be retrived.

Hern at seidge, is when you find a Hern standing by the water-side watching for Prey, or the like.

Jack, is the Male-Hawk.

Jesses, are those short straps of Leather which are sastned to the Hawks Legs, and so to the Lease or Leash by Varvails, and such-like.

Imp, is to insert a Feather into the Wing of a Hawk in the place of one that is broken.

Inke, is the Neck from the Head to the Body of any Bird which the Hawk doth prey upon.

Intermewing, is from the first exchange of the Hawks Coat, till she turn white: and this is so called from the first Mewing.

Jouketh, is when she sleepeth.

Luce, that is when a young Hawk is called by the Faulconer thereunto, and is made of Feathers and Leather not much unlike a Fowl, which he casteth up into the Air.

Lease or Leash, is a small long thong of Leather by which the Faulconer holdeth his Hawk fast, folding it many times about his Finger.

Lean, is when the Hawk holds in to you.

A Make-Hawk, is an old Staunch-Hawk which used to fly, will easily instruct a young Hawk.

Managing a Hawk, is to use her with Art and Skill.

Make out, is when the Hawk goes forth at Check.

Mailes, are the Breast-feathers.

Manning, is making a Hawk to endure company.

Mantleth, is when the Hawk stretcheth one of her Wings after her Legs, and so the other.

[Page]Mew, is the place where you set down your Hawk during the time she raiseth her Feathers.

Muting, is the Excrements or Dung of a Hawk, and so it is of a Hern.

Mites, are a sort of Vermin that trouble the Head and Nares of a Hawk.

Nares, are the little holes in a Hawk's Beak.

Pearch, is the Hawk's resting-place when she is off the Faulconers Fist.

Pelt, is the dead body of any Fowl the Hawk hath killed.

Pill or Pelf, is what the Hawk hath left of her prey after she is relieved.

Plume, is the general mixture of Feathers and Colours by which the Constitution of a Hawk is known.

Plumage, are small Feathers given the Hawk to make her cast.

Pluming, is after the Hawk hath seized her Prey, and dismantles it of the Feathers.

Pannel, is the Pipe next the Fundament of a Hawk, where she digesteth her meat from her body.

Pantas, a Disease in Hawks so called.

Pendant-Feathers, those Feathers behind the Thigh of a Hawk.

Petty-singles, arethe Toes of the Hawk.

Pounces, are the Claws of the Hawk.

Principal-Feathers, are the two longest Feathers in the Hawk's Wings.

Pruneth, is when the Hawk picketh her self.

Put over, is when a Hawk removeth her Meat from the Gorge into her Bowels, by traversing with her Body, but chiefly with her Neck.

Quarry, is the Fowl which the Hawk flies at dead or alive.

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Raised in flesh, is when a Hawk grows fat.

Rake, is when the Hawk flies out too far from the Fowl.

Ramage, is when a Hawk is wild, and difficult to be reclaimed.

Rangle, is when we give a Hawk Gravel to bring her to her Stomach.

Retrive, is when Partridges, having been sprung, are to find again.

Rouze, is when a Hawk lifteth her self up and shaketh her self.

Ruff, is when the Hawk hits the Prey, and yet not trusses it.

Rufter-hood, is a plain and easie Leather-hood, being large, wide, and open behind, and is to be worn by a Hawk when you first draw her.

Reclaim, is to make a Hawk tame, gentle, and familiar.

Sails, are the Wings of a Hawk:

Sear or Sere, is the yellow between the Beak and Eyes of the Hawk.

Seeling, is when a Hawk first taken is so blinded with a Thread run through the Eye-lids, that she sees not, or very little, the better to make her endure the Hood.

Seizing, is when a Hawk gripes her Prey, or any thing else, fast within her Foot.

Setting down, is when the Hawk is put into the Mew.

Slice, is when a Hawk muteth a great distance from her.

Sliming, is when a Hawk muteth without dropping.

Sniting, is when a Hawk as it were sneezeth.

Soar-hawk, that is from the first taking her from the Eyries till she hath Mewed her Feathers.

Spring, is when any Partridge or Pheasant rise.

Stooping, is when the Hawk is aloft upon her Wing, and then descends to strike her Prey.

[Page]Summ'd, is when the Hawk is in all her Plumes.

Swivel, is that which keepeth a Hawk from twisting.

Tiercel or Tassel, is the Male-Hawk.

Tiring, is when you give your Hawk a Leg or Pinion of a Pullet, Pidgeon, &c. to pluck at.

Train, is the Tail of the Hawk.

Trassing, is when she raiseth any Fowl aloft, and soaring with it, at length descendeth with it to the ground.

Varvels, little Rings of Silver at the end of the Jesses, whereon the owners of the Hawk have their Names ingraven.

Unreclaimed, is when a Hawk is wild.

Unseeling, is when you take away a Thread that runs through the Hawks Eye-lids, and hinders her sight.

Unstrike the hood, is to draw the Strings, that it may be in a readiness to pull off.

Unsumm'd, is when the Feathers of a Hawk are not fully grown.

Urines, are Nets to catch Hawks withal.

Warbling, is after a Hawk hath mantled her self she crosses her Wings together over her Back.

Weathering, is when you air your Hawk in Frost, Sun, or by the Fire-side.

Whur, is the rising and fluttering of Partridge or Pheasant.

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The Names and Natures of Hawks in general: and first of the Haggard-Faulcon.

I Begin with the Haggard-Faulcon, since it is a Hawk which most men now-a-days covet, to fit and prepare for their delight and pleasure; although heretofore I hear less spoken of her praise by the Antients than she deserves.

Some of old have preferred the Faulcon-gentle for mettle and courage, being of a loving disposition, strong and daring, and hardy in all seasons; and by a mere mistake have undervalued the Haggard-faulcon, condemning her as being a Bird too tender to endure rough and boisterous weather.

Experience confutes this Opinion, she being known to be able to endure as much the extremity of weather, or more than the Tiercel, Faulcon-gentle, or most other Hawks whatsoever; and therefore she shall first take place in this manner.

The Haggard-faulcon, wild, and unreclaimed, takes a large liberty to her self for her abode, either by Sea or Land; and is so absolute in her power, that whereever she comes, all flying Fowl stoop under her subjection. Nay, the Tiercel-gentle, although her natural companion, dares not sit by her or come near her residence but in cawking-time, and that is in the Spring; and then for procreation sake, she will admit him to come near her with submission, which he manifests by bowing his head at his approach, and by calling and cowring with his Wings, as the young ones do, in testimony how fearful he is of incurring her displeasure.

Whilst she is very young (and so will a Passenger-Soar-faulcon) [Page] she will prey upon Birds which are too big to encounter withal; and this she doth for want of understanding: and she continues this rashness and folly, till experience and a sound beating have reclaimed her.

The Haggard faulcon will prey on any other Fowl she can meet with advantageously, especially tame Pidgeons, or such as belong to a Dove-house; for these they frequently meet withal.

This Hawk is an incessant Pains-taker; no weather discourageth her from her Game, but that onely wherein no Fowl can well stir abroad to seek for sustenance; otherwise she is continually working, either in the Air or elsewhere, unless she stoop and miss of her Prey, and then she will rest a little, to take breath and renew her courage. Nay, if she hath laboured in boisterous and tempestuous weather three or four days together, she will be so far from being the worse for it, that she will appear much better, and more lively. And therefor it is a vulgar errour, for men not to fly their Hawks but after three or four days rest, some a week or fortnight. For old Staunch-hawks, I judge a little rest will do no harm; but for the young, till she is blouded give her but little; and if you can fly her every day, you will find it so much the better.

When the Faulcon unreclaimed hath seized her Prey and broke her Neck, (in artificial terms, her Ink) she then falls on the Crop, and feeds first on what is there contained, afterwards on other parts; and having filled her Gorge, she will fly to some solitary place which is near water, or what liketh her best, and there she will sit all day: upon the approach of night she takes Wing, and flies to some convenient place she hath afore purposed, to pearch therein till the morning.

Thus much of her as she is wild and un-reclaimed. [Page] In the next place it will be requisite to inform you with the manner of reclaiming of a Haggard-faulcon, and her entry to the Lure.

Having taken or purchased one of them, set her down, and let her rest quietly the first night in a Rusterhood.

The next day take her up easily on your Fist, and carry her up and down that whole day; using a Feather to stroke her withal instead of your hand. When you find her not impatient of being toucht, take her Hood off speedily, and put it on again as speedily, observing thus to do till she is willing to feed: then frequently offer her food, but let her have but a little at a time; never pulling her Hood off or on but you must gain her love with a bit or two, using your voice unto her when you are taking off her Hood, and all the while she is feeding, and no longer; that by that means, after she is reclaimed, she may know by your voice she shall be fed.

Having thus done, teach her to come to your Fist from the Pearch by doing thus: Let her stand on a Pearch about breast-high; if lower, kneel, for this low posture will less affright than any other: after this, unstrike her Hood, and lure her, using your voice; and have a special care that you affright her not or distaste her, and so cause her to bate from you. But you must, before you unstrike her Hood, encourage her with a bit or two, which will make her the more eager to come to you: For it is her Stomach that rules her, and is the Bridle that keeps her in subjection, pricking her forward to perform her duty: wherefore if you keep not her Appetite sharp and truly edged, instead of Submission, you will find Disobedience. When you find she will willingly feed from and come to your hand, you may then let her sit bare-fac'd, now and then diverting her starting about by giving her a [Page] bit or two, to direct her face towards you: after this you may set her to the Lure.

When you find she will come readily to the Lure, garnisht with meat in the Creance, fearing lest she scorn this way of Luring, fix a live Pidgeon to the Lure, and lure her therewith. When she hath killed the Pidgeon and eaten the Head, take her up gently with a bit of meat, and put on her Hood; then unstrike her Hood and lure her to the Pelt, doing thus twice or thrice, and no more: if you do it oftner, she will become in time very loth to part with the Pelt, and by this means you will provoke her to carry. This is a great fault, and more incident to and worse in Field-Hawks than such as are fitted for the River.

But be sure you lure her not far till her Stomach be perfect; for otherwise she may discover something by the way which she hath a greater esteem for, and so be lost for that time; which will be very detrimental to her, although you should happen to recover and reclaim her afterwards.

Here observe, in the time of her making (while she is on the ground either pluming or feeding) forget not to walk round her, using your voice, and giving her many bits with your hand; continuing so to do till you have won her to a more than ordinary familiarity.

But above all, mark this; spring her some living Doves between the Man and the Lure, and let them be given in a long Creance, that she may kill them near you, in such manner that she may truss them over your head: by this means she will not be afraid when you come to her from afar off; the neglect whereof will make her timorous: thence will proceed her dragging and carrying from you; nay sometimes she will leave her Prey, and totally forsake you.

There are some Hawks will not be taken up without [Page] striking or rapping in the Creance, which must be infallibly the loss of such a Hawk without such a device: this is a great fault in the Hawk, and argueth great negligence in the Faulconer, in suffering, and not remedying that ill property in her first making.

Rules for ordering a Haggard-faulcon in the Luring: with the Causes and Remedies of Carrying, and other ill qualities.

Having thus far acquainted your Hawk with the Lure, take her out some convenient Evening, and be no farther from her than she can see and hear you; then hold in your Lure, and suffer her to fly about you, holding her as near you as you can with your Voice and Lure, teaching her to do her business, and work it on your head; and then cast up a live Dove: Which some disapprove of, because (say they) the lightness of the Dove inclines the Hawk to that ill quality of Carrying; but I rather impute that fault to the ignorance, or negligence and harshness of the Faulconer, who hath been either unskilful, remiss, or hath not used that gentleness which is requisite in Reclaiming a Hawk in her first Making: so that instead of gaining her love by fair Allurements, he hath converted it into Hatred, Abhorrency, and Disdainful Coyness.

Another cause of this Dragging or Garrying proceeds from the Keepers ill or slender Rewarding his Hawk in the Luring, in giving her the Pelt of a Pidgeon or some other dead thing, which gives her no delight. It is the pleasure she takes in the Reward that engages her coming to you: If then she chance to find her expectation frustrated in her usual satisfaction, she will ever after shun you; and though you should throw her a live Pidgeon, she may seize it, and keep close [Page] to it, or remove it as you approach, for fear that your unkindness should deprive her of it. Wherefore you must have a special care you disoblige her not in her Luring.

There are several other errours which must be rectified in a Haggard-faulcon, Faulcon-gentle, or Slightfaulcons, (which naturally are all of one kind, yet differ much in quality and condition) which I shall leave to the study of the ingenious and industrious Faulconer or Keeper. I say, the first fault is, that though you have lured your Hawk well, and given her all the content and satisfaction imaginable, yet will she not tarry with you, but take her slight and forsake you. This argueth an aversion in her from you to something else. This fault Mr. Turbervile, and Mr. Latham say they have known remedied: but because I look upon the trouble therein to be so great, and the future satisfaction so small and uncertain, I shall not lay down what means are commonly made use of in the cure of this ill quality.

But there is another fault, which at first may be easily prevented; and that is, an aspiring quality and working humour, when although the Hawk never shewed any dislike to the Keeper or discontent, yet by observation she hath been found conceited, and would not endure the society of another Hawk; and having been well blouded on Fowl, she would not be kept down near her Keeper. To remedy this, let no scope be given to the Haggard in the time of making; let her not fly high, but be held down and near you: and if you should let this Hawk in to another Hawk, and find her fall to her work without any regard or notice taken of the other Hawk, suspect her instantly, and let her see Fowl in due time, lest when she comes to her due place, she go her way; for she will prove impatient: wherefore the shorter work you make [Page] with her, the greater delight you give her, and so consequently you engage her love continually towards you.

Having taught your Hawk to sit bare-faced in the Evening among company undisturbed, and that she knows your Voice, and will come to the Lure, then give her every night stones, till you find her Stomach good: after that, profer her Casting, and let her not receive it unless she likes it well; otherwise she is apt to take a dislike, and will never afterwards receive it willingly.

These Stones aforesaid prepare and make ready the way for casting, stirring, and dissolving whatever is offensive within, and fitting it to be carried, downward in her Mutes, or upward in her Castings. The time for giving these Stones is, when she hath put away her Supper from above; then give her half a dozen above the hand, if you have so much skill; if not, otherwise as you are able. Do thus often, until such time as you shall give her such things whereof she shall take Plumage in her living or training. But of this, more hereafter.

How to know the Nature and Disposition of several HAWKS, and what must be observed from thence.

THere is a certain Hawk called a Blank Hawk, which is a kinde, loving, and docible Hawk; for she will diligently listen and give ear unto you and your voice; she will soon learn to come to hand, being very eager and hot to seize on what you shall either [Page] throw or give her, and will be very familiar: I astly, having done your will on the ground, she will look up for your Fist, and will readily jump thereon.

They are much subject to little Grubs, which are ingendered in the Guts, and discover themselves in their Mutes, crawling out from them, shrinking themselves up, and so instantly dying. These Worms do little harm, and that Hawk which hath them is seldom bad. The colour of these Worms is red in a Slight Faulcon, and red in a Barbary-Faulcon; and when dead, in both white.

There is a sort of Swarthy black-plum'd Hawk, that is good-mettled, and a high flier, yet hard to be reclaimed: for she will neither mind you nor your voice; but when you lure her, will look any other way than that she should. However, you must shew your self very loving towards her, though you shall get no more from her than what you extort by force. For her due reclaiming, lessen her pride by ordering her Diet with measure, with respect had unto the Weather; which if it be mild and temperate, you need not fear to hold her down until you have quarried her: and as you shall see her amend her manners, alter her Diet, and add to her strength according to reasonable expedition; which will be soon obtained if the be sound, and the weather moderate. But if the weather be frosty, have a care of abating flesh.

When at any time you fly any one of these black or tawny Hawks, and she stoops foul and falls in her flight, you must take her down with some living thing.

If the be young, suffer not her (or any other Hawk) to fly too long; for nothing is more prejudicial and distasteful to a young Hawk at her first making, than to let her toil and make many stoopings before the be [Page] served: by this dislike she is induced to fly wide and carelesly, and frequently to go away through displeasure.

Now to the intent I may go on methodically, and with as little confusion as may be, I shall in the next place here nominate what Hawks I intend to treat of, and in the same order as I name them, in like manner I will discourse of them. Take them thus:

Faulcon,

Gerfaulcon,

Mylion,

Merlin,

Hobby,

Goshawk,

Sparrow-hawk

Lanner,

Their Males.

Tiercel-gentle,

Jerkin,

Tiercel,

Jack,

Robbin,

Tiercel,

Musket,

Lannerct.

Here note, that the Female of all Birds of Prey are much larger, and of greater bulk than the Male, and are more serviceable, being more watchful, hardy, and bold: but of such Birds as do not Prey, the Cocks are the larger.

The Faulcon, Gerfaulcon, Mylion, Merlin, and Hobby do stoop and seize their Prey with their Foot, breaking with their beak the Neck-bone of the Fowl, without pluming or tiring thereupon till the Fowl hath left busking and bating on the foot.

The Goshawk with her Male the Tiercel, and the Sparrow-harvk, kill their Game by strength and force of Wing at random, and do instantly plume and tire upon their Prey.

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Of the Faulcon.

THere are seven kinds of Faulcons, viz.

Faulcon-gentle,

Haggard-faulcon,

Barbary or Tartaret-faulcon,

Gerfaulcon,

Saker,

Lanner, and

Tunician.

The Faulcon-gentle is so called for her familiar courreous disposition; she is withal valiant, strong, and better able to endure any sort of weather than any other Hawk.

She hath a natural inclination and love to fly the Hern every way, either from her Wings to the downcome, or from the Fist and afore-head. She is most excellent at the Brook or River, especially at large Fowl, as the Shoveler, Wild-goose, &c. If she be an Eyess, you may venture her at the Crane; otherwise she will not be so hardy and bold. Where note, Hawks prove valiant or cowards according as they are first quarried: and if you take them out of the Eyrie before they are fully summed and hard penned, you must never expect their Wings should grow to perfection, but their Legs will be apt to wear crooked, and their Train, their long Feathers and their Flags also will be full of Taints.

In the choice of your Faulcon, observe that she have wide Nares; high and large Eye-lids; a great black Eye; a round Head, somewhat full on the top; a short, thick, azure Beak; and indifferent high Neck; barb Feathers under the clap of the Beak; a good [Page] large, round, fleshy Breast: let her be strong, hard, and stiff bonded, broad-shouldered; having slender Sails, full Sides, long and great Thighs; strong and short Arms; large Feet, with the Sear of the Foot soft and blewish; black Pounces, long Wings, and crossing the Train, which Train must be short and very pliable.

Here observe, that Faulcons of one kind differ much, and are diversly named, according to the time of their first Reclaiming, places of Haunt, and Countries from whence they come; as Mew'd-Hawks, Rammage-Hawks, Soar-Hawks, Eyesses: and these again are divided into large Hawks, mean Hawks, and slender Hawks. All these have different Males and Plumes, according to the nature of the Countries from whence they come; as some are black, some blank, or russet: and they differ in disposition; some are best for the Field, others for the River.

Names are bestowed on a Faulcon according to her Age or Taking.

The first is an Eyess, which Name lasts as long as she is in the Eyrie. These are very troublesome in their feeding, do cry very much, and are difficultly entred; but being well entred and quarried, prove excellent Hawks for the Hern, River, or any sort of Fowl, and are hardy and full of mettle.

The second is a Rammage-faulcon, and reserves the name after she hath left the Eyrie, being so called May, June, July, and August. These are hard to be manned, but being well reclaimed, they are not inferiour to any Hawk.

The third is a Soar-hawk, so called September, October and November. The first Plumes they have when they for sake the Eyrie, they keep a whole year before they mew them, which are called Soar-feathers.

The fourth is termed Murzarolt, (the latest term [Page] is Carvist, as much as to say, Carry an the Fist:) they are so called January, February, March, April, and till the middle of May, during which time they must be kept on the Fist. They are for the most part very great Baters, and therefore little eaters: They are bad Hawks, frequently troubled with Filanders and worms, and are rarely brought to be good for any thing.

The fifth are called Enter-mews, from the middle of May, to the latter end of December. They are so called because they cast their Coats. They were excellent Hawks, could they be trusted; therefore they must be kept hard under, and must make your Fist their Pearch. Having discours'd of the Names and Nature of the Faulcon, I next come to his Manning, Luring, Flights, and Mewing in every condition: which course I shall orderly take in my ensuing discourse of the other Hawks I have onely named heretofore. And because what Diseases or Casualties are incident to one are likewise to all, I shall put their Cures at the latter end all together.

Of the Manning, Luring, Flights and Mewing of a Faulcon, with other things properly belonging to an Ostrager.

Having taken a Faulcon, you must Seel her, in such manner, that as the Seeling slackens, the Faulcon may be able to see what provision is straight before her, which she will better see so than any other way: and be sure you Seel her not too hard.

A Hawk newly taken ought to have all new Furniture, as new Jesses of good Leather, mailed Leases with Buttons at the end, and new Bewets. You must have a small round stick likewise hanging in a string, with which you must frequently stroak your Hawk: [Page] the oftner you do it, the sooner and better you will man her. She must have two good Bells, that she may the better be found and heard when she either stireth or scratteth: Her Hood must be well fashioned, raised and bossed against her Eyes, deep, and yet straight enough beneath, that it may the better fasten about her Head without hurting her: and you must cope a little her Beak and Talons, but not so near as to make them bleed.

Take notice, if you take a Soar-faulcon which hath already past the Seas, although she be very hard to be reclaim'd, yet she is the best of Faulcons.

Her food must be good and warm twice or thrice a day, until she be full gorg'd; which food must be either Pigeons, Larks, or other live Birds: and the reason is, because you must break her by degrees off from her accustomed feeding.

When you feed her, you must whoop and lure as you do when you call a Hawk, that she may know when you will give her meat.

You must unhood her gently, giving her two or three bits; and putting on her Hood again, you must give her as much more, and be sure that she be close Seeled: and after three or four days lessen her diet: and when you go to bed, set her on some Pearch by you, that you may awaken her often in the night. Thus you must do till you observe her grow tame and gentle: and when you find she begins to feed eagerly, then give her a Sheep's-heart. And now you may begin to unhood her by day-time, but it must be far from company; first giving her a bit or two, then hood her again gently, and give her as much more. Be sure not to afright her with any thing when you unhood her. And when you perceive her to be acquainted with company, and that she is sharp set, unhood her, and give her some meat, holding her just against your Face and [Page] Eyes, which will make her less afraid of the countenances of others. If you can, reclaim her without over-watching.

You must bear her continually on the Fist till she be throughly Manned, causing her to feed in company, giving her in the Morning about Sun-rising the Wing of a Pullet, and in the Evening the Foot of a Coney or Hare cut off above the joynt, flay'd and laid in Water; which having squeez'd, give it her with the Pinion of a Hen's Wing.

For two or three days give her washt meat, and then Plumage, according as you think her foul within. If she Cast, hood her again, and give her nothing till she Gleam after her Casting: having gleamed and casted, then give her a beaching of hot meat in company; and towards the Evening let her plume a Hen's Wing in company also.

If the Feathers of her Casting be foul or slimy, and of a yellowish complexion, then be sure to cleanse her well with washt meat and Casting: if clean within, give her gentle Castings, as the Pinions of an old Hens Wing, or the Neck-bone chopped four or five times between the joynts, washt and steeped in fair Water.

Having well reclaimed her, throughly manned her, and made her eager and sharp set, then you may venture to feed her on the Lure.

But before you shew her the Lure, you must consider these three things: 1. That she be bold in and familiar with company, and no ways afraid of Dogs and Horses. 2. That she be sharp set and hungry, regarding the hour of the Morning and Evening when you will Lure her. 3. And lastly, she must be clean within, and the Lure must be well garnished with meat on both sides, and you must abscond your self when you intend to give her the length of the Lease.

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You must first unhood her, giving her a bit or two on the Lure as she sitteth on your Fist: afterwards take the Lure from her, and so hide it that she see it not; and when she is unseized, cast the Lure so near her that she may catch it within the length of her Lease. When she hath seiz'd it, use your voice according to the custome of Faulconers, and feed her upon the Lure on the ground with the Heart and warm Thigh of a Pullet. Having so lured her, in the Evening give her but a little meat; and let this luring be so timely, that you may give her Plumage and a Juck of a joynt.

In the Morning betimes take her on your Fist, and when she hath cast and gleamed, give her a little beaching of warm meat. Towards Noon take a Creance and tie it to her Lease, and go into some pleasant Field or Meadow, and give her a bit or two on the Lure; then unseize her: and if you find she is sharp set, and hath seized on the Lure eagerly, then give her some one to hold, to let her off to the Lure, then unwind the Creance, and draw it after you a good way, and let him which holds the Hawk hold his right hand on the Tassel of the Hawks Hood in readiness, so that he may unhood her assoon as you begin to lure: and if she come well to the Lure, and stoop upon it roundly, and seize it eagerly, then let her eat two or three bits thereon; then unseize her and take her off the Lure, hood her, and deliver her to him again that held her, and going farther off lure her, feeding her as before with the accustomed voice. Thus lure her every day farther and farther off, till she is accustomed to come freely and eagerly to the Lure.

After this, lure her in company, but have a care that nothing affright her: and when you have used her to the Lure on foot, then lure her on Horse-back; which you may effect the sooner, by causing Horse-men [Page] to be about you when you lure her on foot: also you may do it the sooner by rewarding her upon the Lure on Horse-back among Horsemen. When this way she grows familiar, let some body afoot hold the Hawk, and he that is on Horse-back must call and cast the Lure about his Head; then must the holder take off the Hood by the Tassel: and if she seize eagerly on the Lure without fear of Man or Horse, then take off the Creance, and lure her at a greater distance. And if you would have her love Dogs as well as the Lure, call Dogs when you give her Tiring or Plumage.

Of Bathing a Faulcon lately reclaimed; how to make her Flying, and to hate the Check.

Having wean'd your Faulcon from her Rammage-fooleries, being both ways lured, rewarded, and throughly reclaim'd, offer her some Water to bathe her self in, in a Bason wherein she may stand up to the Thighs, chusing a temperate clear day for that purpose. Then having lured your Hawk, and rewarded her with warm meat, in the morning carry her to some Bank, and there hold her in the Sun till she hath endewed her Gorge, taking off her Hood that she may prune and pick her self: that being done, hood her again, and set her near the Bason, and taking off her Hood, let her bathe again as long as she pleaseth: After this, take her up, and let her pick her self as before, and then feed her. If she refuse the Bason to bathe in, shew her some small River or Brook for that purpose.

By this use of bathing she gains strength and a sharp appetite, and thereby grows bold: but that day where in the batheth give her no washt meat.

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If you would make your Faulcon upwards, the next day after she hath bath'd get on Horseback, either in the Morning or Evening, and chuse out some field wherein are no Rooks or Pidgeons; then take your Lure well garnished on both sides, and having unhooded your Hawk, give her a bit or two on the Lure, then hood her: afterwards go leisurely against the Wind, then unhood her: and before she bate, or find any Check in her Eye, whistle her off from your Fist fairly and softly. As she flieth about you, trot on with your Horse, and cast out your Lure, not suffering her to fly long about you at first: continue thus doing Morning and Evening for seven or eight days. But if you find your Hawk unwilling to fly about you or stop to the Lure, then must you let her fly with some Hawk that loves the company of others, and will not rove at any change or check; and that must first be done at the Partridge, for they will not fly far before the Hawk. If she hath flown twice or thrice, cast out the Lure, and reward her on Horseback. If the Fowl you flew her at be killed by another Hawk, let her feed with him a little, and then farther reward her on the Lure.

If you would have your Faulcon prove upwards and a high-flying Hawk, you must let her fly with such as are so qualified. If the love the company of others, and is taught to hold in the Head, then if the Fowl be in Pool, Pit, or Plash, cast off your high-flying Hawk, and let him that hath your new-lur'd Hawk get under the Wind, and when he seeth his advantage, let him unhood her; and if she bate, then it is to get up to the other Hawk.

Let him then cast her off, and before she get up to the other near his full pitch, lay out the Fowl: if she kill her Game, reward her with the Heart, and let her participate of the Breast with the other Hawks.

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To take your Faulcon from going out to any Check, thus you must do: If she hath kill'd a Check, and hath fed thereon before you could come in, rebuke her not severely at first, but take her down to the Lure, give her a bit or two, hood her, and fly her not in three or four days; and if you do, let it be where no Checks are: but if you come in before she hath tasted the Check she hath killed, then take the Gall of an Hen, and anoint the Breast of that Check she hath killed, (any other bitter thing will do) and this will make her hate to go at Check again.

How to enseam a Faulcon with her Castings and Scowrings.

When you feed your Faulcon, call and lure as if you called her to the Lure, and every day profer her Water, and every night give her Castings accordingly as she endeweth. Take off her Hood frequently in company; and that you may hinder her from bating, hold always the Hood ready by the Tassel in your hand.

In the Evening by candle-light take off her Hood among company, until she Rouze and Mewt; then set her on the Pearch, and not before, setting a light before her.

Every Faulcon ought to have a Make-Hawk to teach her to hold in the Head: if that will not do, cut off some part of her two Principals in each Wing, the long Feather and that next to it, which will force her to hold in.

Be sure to reward your Hawk well at the beginning, and let her feed well on the Quarry; which will so encourage her, that she will have no fancy to go out to the Check. When she is well in bloud and well quarried, then let her fly with other Hawks.

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If you would make your Faulcon to the Crane, her Lure should be a counterfeit Crane. If you would make her to the Hare, her Lure should be then a Hares Skin stuft with some light matter: When she is well lured, and you would enter her, tie the Hares Skin so stuft to the end of a Creance, and fasten it to your Saddle-pummel, by which means when you gallop it will resemble a running Hare: then unhood your Hawk, and cry, Back with the Dogs, back with the Dogs. When you find she hath seized it, let go your Creance, and suffer her to fasten thereon; then instantly reward her upon it, and encourage her as much as is possible.

When she is well entred after this manner, take a living Hare and break one of her hinder Legs, and having before well acquainted your Faulcon with your Dogs by continual feeding among them, I say then put your Hare out in some fair place with your Dogs, and the Faulcon will stoop and ruff her until the Dogs may take her; then take the Hare from the Dogs, and cast her out to the Faulcon, crying, Back, back there.

If you would make your Hawk flying to the Partridge or Pheasant after she is reclaimed and made, then every time you lure her, cast your Lure into some low Tree or Bush, that she may learn to take the Tree or Stand: if she take the Stand before she sees the Lure, let her stand a while; and afterwards draw the Lure out before her, and cry with what words you have acquainted her to understand you by, and then reward her well. After this manner she will learn to take Stand.

Feed her always on the ground, or in some thick place; for in such places she must encounter with the Pheasant at Pearch.

At first fly with her at young Pheasant or Partridge, [Page] to encourage her by advantage, and afterwards at the old.

If a Faulcon will not take Stand, but keep on the Wing, then must you fly her in plain places where you may always see her upon you.

Draw your Faulcon out of the Mew twenty days before you Enseam her: If she truss and carry, the remedy is to cope her Talons, her Powlse and Pettysingle.

Never reward your Hawk upon River-sowl but upon the Lure, that she may the better love and esteem thereof.

The Crane ought to be flown at before Sun-rising; for she is a slothful Bird, and you may cast off to her a Cast or Lease of Faulcons, or a Coshawk from the Fist, without Dogs. You must fly but once a day at the Crane, after which you must reward your Hawk very well, ever succouring her with a Grey-hound, which is the best of Dogs for that purpose.

Give your Faulcon a Beaching very early in the morning, and it will make her very eager to fly when it is time for it.

If you would have her a high-flying Hawk; you must not feed her highly, but she should be fed nine days together before Sun-rising, and at night late in the cool of the Evening.

The Faulcon will kill the Hern naturally if she be a Peregrin or Traveller: yet you will do well to give her Trains.

A Faulcon may fly ten times in a day at a River, if the season be not extream; but more is inconvenient.

A Hawk ought to have forty Castings before she be perfectly made. And indeed all Hawks ought to have Castings every night, if you would have them clean and sound: for Hawks which have not this continual [Page] nocturnal Casting will be surcharged with abundance of superfluous Humours, which ascending to the Brain, bred so great a disturbance that they cannot fly so high as otherways they would. And it is good to give them Tiring or Plumage at night, especially field-Hawks, but not River-Hawks, for fear of weakning their Backs.

When your Hawk hath flown or bated, feed her not so long as she panteth, (but let her be first in breath again;) otherways you may bring her into a Disease called the Pantas.

If a Faulcon or other Hawk will not Seize nor Gorge, take the Quill of a Wild-goose, and tie it under her long Single; then will she Seize and Gripe. When she beginneth to seize, take away the said Quill, and she will seize long afterwards.

If you cannot give Covert to your Faulcon or Goshawk, then cast her off with the Sun in her back.

When you draw your Hawk out of the Mew, if she be greazie, (which you shall know by her round fat Thighs and her full Body, the flesh being round, and as high as her Breast-bone) and if she be well mew'd, and have all her Feathers summed, then give her at feeding-time in the morning two or three bits of hot meat; and at night give her less, unless it be very cold; and if she feed well and without compulsion, give her washt meat. Thus prepared, take the Wings of a Hen for her Dinner and wash them in two Waters. In the morning give her the Legs of a Hen very hot, at Noon meat temperately warm, a good Gorge; then let her fast till it be late in the Evening. If she have put over her meat, and there is nothing left in her Gorge, then give her warm meat, as in the morning. Thus diet her till it be convenient to give her Plumage, the which you may know by these tokens: First, the Flesh of the end of the Pinion of the Hawk's [Page] Wing will seem softer and tenderer than it did before she did eat washt meat. Secondly, if her Mewts be white, and the black thereof be very black, and not mingled with any other colour. Lastly, if she be sharp set, and doth plume eagerly, you may give her Casting either of a Hare's or Coney's Foot, or the small Feathers on the joynt of the Wing of an old Hen.

Having set her on the Pearch, sweep clean underneath, that you may see whether the Mewt be full of streaks, or skins, or slimy: if it be, then continue this sort of Casting three or four nights together; but if you find the Feathers digested and soft, and that her Casting is great, then take the neck of an old Hen, and cut it between the joynts, then lay it in cold water, and give it your Faulcon three nights together; in the day-time give her washt meat, after this Casting or Plumage, as you shall see requisite: and this will bear all down into the Pannel.

When you have drawn her out of the Mew, and her principal Feathers are summed, give her no washt meats, but quick Birds with good Gorges, and set her out in open places.

General Instructions for an Ostrager or Faulconer.

LEt his Jesses and Bewets be of good Leather, having Bells big and shrill according to the proportion of the Hawk, with a Hood that is bossed at the Eyes, and sizable for the Head.

He must use his Hawk in such manner, that he may make her grow familiar with him alone or in company, [Page] and to that end he must often unhood and hood her again.

In nine nights the Faulconer ought not to let his Hawk Jouk at all, nor suffer her to pearch, but keep her during that time continually on his Fist.

When the Faulconer would call his Hawk, let him set her on the Pearch, unhood her, and shew her some meat within his Fist, call her so long till she come to it, then feed her therewith: if she come not, let her stand without food till she be very sharp set. Observe this order for about nine days.

When you would lure her give her some man to hold, and call her with a Lure well garnisht with meat on both sides, and give her a bit: use her to this six or seven days; then cause her to be held farther from you, and cast the Lure about your Head, and throw it on the ground a little way from you: if she come to it roundly, reward her bountifully. Having used her to this some certain days, take your Lure garnished as aforesaid, and every day call her to you as far as it is possible for her to see or hear you, and let her be loose from all her Furniture, without Loins or Creance. If she come freely, reward her, and stop her now and then in her feeding; for that will make her come the better. You may do well to stop the Lure upon her sometimes, and let her fly upon you. Here note, it is requisite to bathe her before you take this course, lest when she is at liberty she rangle to see Water, and in the mean time you lose your Hawk; wherefore bathe her every seven or eight days, for her nature requireth it.

When you have thus manned, reclaimed, and lured your Hawk, go out with her into the fields, and whistle her off your Fist, stand still to see what she will do, and whether she will rake out or not: but if she fly round about you, as a good Hawk ought to do, let [Page] her fly a turn or two, and fling her out the Lure, and let her foot a Chicken or Pullet, and having killed it, let her feed thereon.

Unhood her often as you bear her; continue so doing till she hath endewed and mewted sufficiently.

Your Hawk being thus made and manned, go abroad with her every morning when it is fair, and let the place where you intend to fly her be plashy, or some narrow Brook; and when you cast her off, go into the Wind so far, that the Fowl may not discover you. When she is cast off, and beginneth to recover her Gate, make then to the Brook or Plash where the Fowl lie, always making your Hawk to lean in upon you: and when you see her at a reasonable pitch, (her Head being in) lay out the Fowl, and land it if you can; and if you cannot, take down your Hawk, and let her kill some Train; to which end you must always carry some live Fowl with you, as a Duck, &c. And having slipt one of her Wing feathers, thrust it through her Nares, and cast her up as high as you can underneath your Hawk that she may the better know your hand.

If you would have your Hawk fly at one particular Fowl more than at another, you must then feed her well upon a Train of the same kind, as thus: Take a Creance, and tie that Fowl you would accustom her to fly to by the Beak, with meat on her Back, and cause one to stand close that shall hold the Creance; then standing afar off, unhood your Hawk, and let the Fowl be stirred and drawn with the Creance until your Hawk perceive it stir; and if she foot it, make another Train thus: Take a living Fowl that can fly, half seel it and cast it out; then let your Hawk fly to it; and if she kill it, reward her well upon it.

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Of the Rammage-faulcon.

If a Faulconer chance to recover a Rammage-hawk that was never handled before, let him immediately seel her, and at that instant put on her Jesses made of soft leather; at the end thereof fix two Varvels, the one may bear your Coat of Arms, the other your Name, that if she chance to be lost, they that take her up may know where to return her: put her on also a pair of Bells with two proper Bewets. Having thus furnished her, you must begin her manning by gentle handling. To avoid the danger of her Beak, you must have a smooth Stick about half a foot in length, with which you must stroak your Hawk about the Pinions of her Wings, and so downwards thwart her Train. If she offer to snap at the Stick, withdraw not your hand, and let her bite thereon, the hardness whereof will soon make her weary of that sport.

If you would man her well, you should watch all the night, keeping her continually on your Fist.

You must teach her to feed seel'd; and having a great and easie Rufter-hood, you must hood and unhood her often, seel'd as she is, handling her gently about the head, coying her always when you unhood her, to the intent she may not be displeased with her Keeper.

Let her plume and tire sometimes upon a Wing on your Fist, keeping her so day and night, without pearthing, until she be weary, and will suffer you to hood her without stirring.

If your Hawk be so rammage that she will not leave her snapping or biting, then take a little Aloes succotrina, and when she offers to snap, give it her to bite; the bitterness whereof will quickly make her leave that ill quality. Garlick I have heard will do the [Page] like, the strong scent thereof being equally offensive.

How to Hood a Hawk.

Having seel'd your Hawk, fit her with a large easie Hood, which you must take off and put on very often, watching her two nights, handling her frequently and gently about the Head as aforesaid. When you perceive she hath no aversion to the Hood, unseel her in an Evening by Candle-light; continue handling her softly, often hooding and unhooding her, until she takes no offence at the Hood, and will patiently endure handling.

Take this Observation by the way, That it is the duty of a Faulconer to be endowed with a great deal of Patience; and in the next place he ought to have a natural love and inclination to Hawks; without these two Qualifications, all the Professors of this Art will prove Mar-Hawks instead of good Faulconers.

But to return where I left off: If your seel'd Hawk feeds well, abides the Hood and handling without striking or biting, then by Candle-light in an Evening unseel her, and with your Finger and Spittle anoint the place where the Seeling-thread was drawn through; then hood her, and hold her on your Fist all night, often hooding, unhooding, and handling her, stroaking her gently about the Wings and Body, giving her sometimes a bit or two, also Tiring or Plumage. Being well reclaimed, let her sit upon a Pearch; but every night keep her on the Fist three or four hours, stroaking, hooding, and unhooding, &c. as aforesaid: and thus you may do in the day-time, when she hath learn'd to feed eagerly without fear.

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How to make a Hawk know your Voice, and her own Feeding.

Having mann'd your Hawk so that she feeds boldly, acquaint her with your Voice, Whistle, and such words as Faulconers use: you may do it by frequently repeating them to her as she is feeding on your Fist, &c. But I think the best way of making her acquainted with them, is by your experience and practice.

When she feeds boldly, and knows your Voice and Whistle, then teach her to know her Feeding, and to bate at it in this manner: Shew her some meat with your right hand, crying and luring to her aloud; if she bate or strike at it, then let her quickly and neatly foot it, and feed on it for four or five bits. Do thus often, and she will know her Feeding the better.

After this, give her every night some Casting either of Feathers, or Cotton with Cloves or Aloes wrapt up therein, &c. These Castings make a Hawk clean and eager.

How to make your Hawk bold and venturous.

In the first place, to make her hardy, you must permit her to Plume a Pullet or large Chicken in a place where there is not much light: her Hood in a readiness, you must have either of the aforesaid alive in your hand; then kneeling on the ground, luring and crying aloud to her, make her plume and pull the Pullet a little; then with your Teeth drawing the Strings, unhood her softly, suffering her to pluck it with her Beak three or four times more; then throw out the Pullet on the ground, and encourage her to seize it. When you perceive she breaks it and takes bloud, you must [Page] lure and cry aloud to her, encouraging her all the ways imaginable: then hood her gently, and give her Tiring of the Wing or Fóot of the said Pullet.

How to make a Hawk know the Lure.

Your Hawk having three or four times thus killed a Pullet or large Chicken in some secret place, then thus reach her to know the Lure.

Having fastned a Pullet unto your Lure, go apart, giving your Hawk unto another, who must draw loose the strings of her Hood in readiness: Being gone a little way, take half the length of the String, and cast it about your Head, luring with your voice at the same time; then let your Hawk be unhooded as you are throwing your Lure a little way from her, not ceasing luring all the while. If she stoop to the Lure and seize, suffer her to plume the Pullet, still coying and luring with your voice; then let her feed on the Pullet upon the Lure: After that, take her on your Fist together with her meat, then hood her, and let her tire as aforesaid. And thus you may teach her to come by degrees to a very great distance.

How to make a Hawk flying.

When your Hawk or Haggard-faulcon will come and stoop to the Lure roundly without any fear or coyness, you must put her on a great pair of Luring-bells; the like you must do to a Soar-hawk: by so much greater must the Bells be, by how much your Hawk is giddyheaded, and apt to rake out at Check.

That being done, and she sharp set, go in a fair morning into some large Field on Horseback, which Field must be very little incumbred with Wood or Trees: having your Hawk on your Fist, ride up into the wind, [Page] and having loosned her Hood, whistle softly to provoke her to fly; and then you will observe she will begin to bate, or at least to flap with her Flags and Sails, and to raise her self on your Fist: then suffer her until she rouze or Mewt: when she hath done either of them, unhood her, and let her fly with her Head into the Wind; for thereby she will be the better able to get upon the Wing; then will she naturally climbe upwards, flying in a circle.

When she hath flown three or four Turns, then cry and lure with your Voice, casting the Lure about your head, unto which you must first tie a Pullet: and if your Faulcon come in and approach near you, then cast out the Lure into the Wind; and if she stoop to it, reward her as before.

There is one great fault you will often find in the making of a Hawk flying, and that is, when she flieth from the Fist she will not get up, but take stand on the ground; a frequent fault in Soar-faulcons. You must then fright her up with your Wand, riding in to her; and when you have forced her to take a Turn or two, take her down to the Lure and feed her. But if this do no good, then you must have in readiness a Duck seeled, so that she may see no way but backwards, and that will make her mount the higher. This Duck you must hold by one of the Wings near the body in your right hand, then lure with your voice to make your Faulcon turn the head: when she is at a reasonable pitch, cast up your Duck just under her, that she may perceive it: if she strike, stoop, or truss the Duck, permit her to kill it, and reward her, giving her a reasonable Gorge. Use this custom twice or thrice, and your Hawk will leave the Stand, delighting on the Wing, and will become very obedient.

Here note, that for the first or second time it is not convenient, to shew your Hawk great or large Fowl, [Page] for it often happens that they slip from the Hawk into the wind; the Hawk not recovering them, raketh after them, which puts the Faulconer to much trouble, and frequently occasions the loss of his Hawk.

But if it so chance that your Hawk so rake out with a Fowl that she cannot recover it, but gives it over and comes in again directly upon you, then cast out a seeled Duck; and if she stoop and truss it, cross the Wings, and permit her to take her pleasure, rewarding her also with the Heart, Brains, Tongue, and Liver. For want of a quick Duck, take her down with the dry Lure, and let her plume a Pullet, and feed her upon it.

By so doing, your Hawk will learn to give over a Fowl that rakes out, and hearing the Lure of the Faulconer, will make back again to the River, and know the better to hold in the Head.

A Flight for a Haggard.

When you intend a Flight for a Haggard, for the first, second, and third time, make choice of such a place where there are no Crows, Rooks, or the like, to take away all occasion of her raking out after such Check.

Let her not fly out too far on head at the first, but run after and cry, Why lo, why lo, to make her turn Head. When she is come in, take her down with the Lure, unto which must be fastned a live Pullet, and let her Tire, Plume, and feed as aforesaid.

Sometimes a Haggard out of pride and a gadding humour will rangle out from her Keeper: then clog her with great Luring-bells, and make her a Train or two with a Duck seeled, to teach her to hold in and know her keeper: take her down often with the dry Lure, and reward her bountifully, and let her be ever [Page] well in bloud, or you may whoop for your Hawk to no purpose.

How to make a Soar-faulcon or Haggard kill her Game at the very first.

If she be well lured, flieth a good Gate, and stoopeth well, then cast off a well-quaried Hawk, and let her stoop a Fowl on Brook or Plash, and watch her till she put it to the plunge: then take down your Make-Hawk reward her, hood her, and set her; so you may make use of her if need require.

Then take your Hawk un-entred, and going up the wind half a Bow-shot, unloose her Hood, and softly whistle her off your Fist, until she have rouzed or mewted: then let her fly with her Head into the wind, having first given notice or warning to the company to be in readiness against the Hawk be in a good Gate, and to shew Water, and to lay out the Fowl.

When she is at a good pitch, and covering the Fowl, then notifie that all the company make in at once to the Brook upon the Fowl, to land her: if your Faulcon strike, stoop, or truss her Game, run in to help her, and crossing the Fowls Wing, let her take her pleasure thereon.

If she kill not the Fowl at first stooping, give her then respite to recover her Gate. When she hath got it, and her Head in, then lay out the Fowl as aforesaid, until you land it at last; nor forgetting to help her as soon as she hath seized it, giving also her due Reward.

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Remedy for a Hawk's taking Stand in a Tree.

In the first place you must chuse such places where are no Wood or Trees, or as little as may be. If you cannot avoid it, then have two or three live Trains, and give them to as many men, placing them conveniently for to use them. When therefore your Hawk hath stooped, and endeavours to go to stand, let him to whom the Hawk most bends cast out his Train-Duck seeled: if the Hawk kill her, reward her therewith. If this course will not remedy that fault in her by twice or thrice so doing, my advice is then to part with the Buzzard.

How to help a Hawk froward and coy through pride of Grease.

There is a scurvy quality in some Hawks, proceeding from pride of Grease, or being high kept, which is a disdainful coyness. Such a Hawk therefore must not be rewarded although she kill; yet give her leave to plume a little; and then let the Faulconer take a Sheeps-Heart cold, or the Leg of a Pullet, and whilst the Hawk is busie in pluming, let either of them be conveyed into the Body of the Fowl, that it may favour thereof; and when the Hawk hath eaten the Brains, Heart, and Tongue of the Fowl, then take out your Inclosure, and call your Hawk with it to your Fist, and feed her therewith: after this give her some Feathers of the Neck of the Fowl to scowr and make her cast.

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To make a Hawk hold in her Head, and not mind Check.

Take a piece of a Lease, and fasten it to your Lurestring, the other end to the Wing of a Pidgeon, which you may put in and pull out of your Hawking-bag at your conveniency: when you find your Hawk apt to go out, shew your Pidgeon. I would not have you use it often; for it draws a Hawk from her place if well flown.

How to continue and keep a Hawk in her high-flying.

If your Hawk be a stately high-flying Hawk, you ought not to engage her in more flights than one in a morning: for often flying brings her off from her stately pitch. If she be well made for the River, fly her not above twice in a morning; yet feed her up though she kill not.

When a high-flying Hawk being whistled to, gathers upwards to a great gate, you must continue her therein, never flying her but upon broad Waters and open Rivers; and when she is at the highest, take her down with your Lure; where when she hath plumed and broken the Fowl a little, then feed her up, and by that means you shall maintain your Faulcon high-flying, inwards, and very fond of the Lure.

Some will have this high-flying Faulcon seldom to kill, and not to stoop: yet if she kill every day, although she stoop from a high Gate, yet if she be not rebuked or hurt therewith, she will, I can assure you, become a higher flier every day than other; but she will grow less fond of the Lure. Wherefore your [Page] high-flying Hawks should be made inwards, it being a commendable quality in them to make in and turn head at the second or third toss of the Lure, and when she poureth down upon it as if she had killed.

And as the teaching of a Faulcon, or any other Hawk to come readily to and love the Lure, is an art highly commendable, because it is the effect of great labour and industry: so it is the cause of saving many a Hawk, which otherways would be lost irrecoverably.

Mark this by the way, that some naturally high-flying Hawks will be long before they be made upwards, still fishing and playing the slugs; and when they should get up to cover the Fowl, they will stoop before the Fowl be put out: And this may proceed from two causes. In the first place, she may be too sharp set, and in the next place, it may be she is flown untimely, either too soon or too late.

When you see a Hawk use those evil Tatches without any visible cause, cast her out a dead Fowl for a dead Quarry, and hood her up instantly without Reward, to discourage her from practising the like another time: half an hour afterwards call her to the Lure and feed her, and serve her after this manner as often as she fisheth in that fashion.

Besides, to correct this errour, the Faulconer ought to consult the natures and dispositions of his Hawks, and should carefully observe which fly high when in good plight, and which best when they are kept low; which when sharpest set, and which on the contrary in a mean between both; which early at Sun-rising, which when the Sun is but two hours high; which sooner, and which later in an evening.

For know that the natures of Hawks are different; so are the time to fly each one: for to fly a Hawk in her proper times, and to fly her out of it, is as disagreeable [Page] as the flight of a Gerfaulcon and a Buzzard. Therefore the Ostrager must fly his Hawks according to their natures and dispositions, keeping them always in good order.

Where by the by take notice, all Hawks, as well Soar-hawks as Mew'd-hawks and Haggards, should be set out in the Evening two or three hours, some more, some less, having respect to their nature as it is stronger or weaker; and in the morning also according as they cast, hooding them first, and then setting them abroad a weathering, until you get on Horseback to prosecute your Recreation.

A Flight for the Hern.

This Flight hath less of Art in it than Pleasure to the beholders; and, to say the truth, the Flight is stately and most noble.

As it is less difficult to teach a Hawk to fly at Fowl than it is to come unto and love the Lure, the first being natural, and not the last; so there is less industry to be used in making a Hawk fly the Hern than Water-fowl. To the first she is instigated by a natural propensity and inclination; to the latter she is brought with art, pains, and much diligence.

At the beginning of March Herns begin to make their Passage: if therefore you will adapt your Faulcons for the Hern, you must not let them fly longer at the River, and withal you must pull them down to make them light; which is done by giving them Hearts and flesh of Lambs and Calves, also Chickens; but give them no wild meats.

To the intent you may acquaint them one with the other, so that they may the better fly the Hern and help one another, you must call a cast of them to the Lure at once; but have a care they crab not together, [Page] for so they may endanger one another in their flight.

When your Hawk is scowred and clean and sharp set, you must then get a live Hern, upon the upper part of whose long sharp Bill you must place a joynt of a hollow Cane, which will prevent her from hurting the Hawk: that being done, tie the Hern in a Creance; then setting her on the ground, unhood your Hawk, who will fly the Hern as soon as shee sees her. If she seize her, make in apace to succour her, and let her plume and take bloud of the Hern: then take the Brains, the Marrow of the Bones, and the Heart, and laying it on your Hawking-glove, give it your Faulcon. After this, rip her Breast, and let your Hawk feed thereon till she be well gorged: this being done, hood her up upon the Hern, permitting her to plume at her pleasure; then take her on your Fist, and let her tire on the Foot or Pinion.

Because Herns are not very plentiful, you may preserve one for a Train three or four times, by arming Bill, Head, and Neck, and painting it of the same colour that the Hern is of: and when the Faulcon seizeth her, you must be very nimble to make in, and deceive her by a live Pidgeon clapt under the Wing of the Hern for the Faulcon, which must be her Reward.

The Hawk having thus several times taken her Train without discovery of the delusion, you may then let the Hern loose in some fair Field without a Greance, or without arming her: when she is up of a reasonable height, you may cast off your Faulcon; who if she bind with the Hern and bring her down, then make in apace to rescue her, thrusting the Hern's Bill into the ground, and breaking his Wings and Legs, that the Hawk may with more ease plume and foot him. Then reward her as before, with the Brains, [Page] Marrow of the Bones, and Heart, making thereof an Italian Soppa.

Thus much of a Train-Hern. Now to fly the wild Hern, it is thus: If you find a wild Hern at Siege, win in as nigh unto her as you can, and go with your Hawk under the Wind; and having first loosed her Hood in a readiness, as soon as the Hern leaveth the Siege, off with her Hood, and let her fly. If she climb to the Hern and bring her down, run in (as I said before) to rescue her, thrusting her Bill into the ground, breaking her Wings and Legs, and rewarding her as aforesaid on your Hawking-glove.

Now if your Faulcon beat not down the Hern, or do give him over, never fly your Faulcon again at a Hern, unless with a Make-hawk well entred; for the Coward by this means, seeing another fly at the Hern and bind with her, takes fresh courage. And if they kill the Hern flying both together, then must you reward them both together while the Quarry is hot, making for them a Soppa as aforesaid. This is the onely way to make them both bold and perfect Herners.

Of the HAGGARD-FAULCON, why so called; her good Shape and Properties: And what difference there is between a Haggard and a Faulcon-gentle.

THe Haggard is by some called the Peregrin-Faulcon, because, say some, she is brought from a Country forrein and remote; and therefore others call them Travellers, or Passengers. But if there be no [Page] other reason for the name but this, all other Hawks coming from exotick places might borrow that appellation.

Upon a threefold consideration, I conceive they are called Haggard or Peregrin-faulcons.

First, because their Eyrie was never found in any Country by any man that ever I could hear or read of.

Secondly, because these Faulcons rangle and wander more than other Faulcon doth, still seeking strange and forreign Coasts; so that where-ever they come they may be justly called Peregrins or Forreigners.

Thirdly, and lastly, she never takes up her habitation long in a place.

This Haggard is not inferiour to any other Faulcon, but very tender, and cannot endure hard weather, say some; but my experience hath found it otherwise. The reason that may be alleadged is this; first, she travels far, as a Stranger, and comes into Countries commonly in the hardest time of the year: next, she is a hot Hawk, which may be gathered from her high flying, where the Air is much colder than below, and therefore ought to be more hardy: lastly, she meweth with more expedition (if she once begin to cast her Feathers) than other Faulcons do.

They are of shape like other Faulcons; but as to mould they are of three sorts, large, middle-siz'd, and little; some long-shaped, some short-trussed; some larger, some less.

They have a fourfold Mail, blank, russet, brown and Turtle.

The goodness of her Shape consists in having her Head plum'd dark or blank, flat on the top with a white Wreath environing the same, a large blue bending Beak, wide Nares, a great black full Eye, high stately Neck, large Breast, broad Shoulders, a great [Page] Turtle-coloured Feather, long Veins and Sails, but slender shaped, a long Train, high Thighs, and white on the Pendant Feathers, a large wide Foot, with slender Stretchers, and Talons tending somewhat to an azure colour.

You may know her in her flight from another by the stirring of her Wings; for she useth no thick stroak, but getteth up to her Mountee leisurely, without any great making out: besides she may be known by her extraordinary large Sails.

The differences between the Haggard and Faulcongentle are these:

First, the Haggard is larger, being longer-armed with longer Beak and Talons, having a higher Neck, with a long and fair-seasoned Head.

Secondly, her Beam-feathers in flight are longer than the Faulcon-gentle's, her Train somewhat larger: again, the Haggard hath a flat Thigh, and the other's is round.

Thirdly, the Haggard will lie longer on the Wing.

Fourthly, the Haggard at long flight exceeds the Faulcon-gentle; which last fleith with more speed from the Fist than the other. For maintenance of Flight and goodness of Wing the Haggard exceeds all other Hawks.

Fifthly, and lastly, the Haggard is more deliberate and advised in her Stooping than the Faulcon-gentle, who is more hot and hasty in her Actions, and missing the Fowl, is apt presently to fly on head at the Check.

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Of the BARBARY-FAULCON.

THe Barbary, or, as some call her, the Tartaret-Faulcon, is a Bird seldom found in any Country, and is called a Passenger as well as the Haggard. They are somewhat lesser than the Tiercel-gentle, and plum'd red under the Wings, strong-armed, with long Talons and Stretchers.

The Barbary-Faulcon is venturously bold, and you may fly her with the Haggard all May and June. They are Hawks very slack in mewing at first; but when once they begin, they mew their Feathers very fast.

They are called Barbary-Faulcons, because they make their passage through that Country and Tunis, where they are more frequently taken than in any other place, namely in the Isles of the Levant, Candy, Cyprus, and Rhodes. In my opinion, she is a Hawk of not much value, and therefore I shall leave her, to speak of another of greater reputation.

Of the GERFAULCON.

THe Gerfaulcon is a very fair Hawk, and of great force, especially being mewed: she is strongarmed, having long Stretchers and Singles; she is fierce and hardy of nature, and therefore difficultly to be reclaimed. She is a lovely Bird to behold, larger than any kind of Faulcon: her Eyes and Head are like the Haggard's.

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Her Beak is great and bending: she hath large Nares, and a Mail like a Lanner's; her Sails are long and sharp-pointed; her Train much like the Lanner's; she hath a large Foot marble-seared, and is plumed blank, brown, and russet. She expects great civility from her Keeper, who must exercise a great deal of patience on her.

The Gerfaulcon's Eyrie is in some parts of Prussia, and on the borders of Russia; and some come from the Mountains of Norway, and from Germany: These may be also called Passengers.

By reason of the fierceness and hardiness of this Bird, she is very hardly manned and reclaimed; but being once overcome, she proves an excellent Hawk, and will scarce refuse to fly at any thing.

Their Beaks are blue, so are the Sears of their Legs and Feet, having Pounces and Talons very long.

These Hawks do not fly the River, but always from the Fist fly the Herns, Shovelers, &c.

In going up to their Gate they do not hold that course or way which others do; for they climbe up upon the Train when they find any Fowl, and as soon as they have reacht her they pluck her down, if not at the first, yet at the second or third encounter. You must feed and reward them like other Faulcons.

They are very crafty, and covet to keep their Castings long through sloth; therefore instead of Cotton give them a Casting of Tow, and be sure to keep them sharp set.

In the Manning and Reclaiming you must by kindness make her gentle and familiar with you. When you have taught her to be lured loose, then learn her to come to the Pelts of Hens, or any other Fowl: but let her not touch any living flesh, for fear that draw her love away from your Voice and Hand.

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All this time you must be close by her, about her, and upon your Knees, using your Voice unto her, with her dinner and supper clean drest and washt, giving her still some bits thereof with your hand, that she may the more delight therein. By doing thus frequently you will so win her, that should she be guilty of Carrying, yet by this means she will be reclaimed, and forget that errour.

Let the Ostrager have especial care how he make his Gerfaulcon at first, and indeed all other Hawks; for as they are made then, he shall ever find them after; and if they are well made, they are twice made, and for ever made: and therefore have a care of two much precipitation in posting them forward from one lesson to another, before they are perfect in any thing.

If you train her with Doves, she will not carry a feather from you. But first before you spring her any Doves, let her kill four or five at Lure close by your foot, having a pair of short Creances at your Lure.

Here note, that the Gerfaulcon is most desired for her high-flying, and is best at Hern and the Mountee: and that you may bring her to perfection herein, play with your entermewed Gerfaulcon the first year, shewing her all imaginable kindness, and using all possible means to make her love you. When you have brought her forward, give her often Castings to cleanse and purge her, also to prevent the growth of too much glut and fatness in her inward parts, which will indanger her life.

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Of the SAKER.

THe Saker is a Passenger or Peregrin-Hawk, for her Eyrie hath not been found by any. They are found in the Isles of the Levant, Cyprus, Rhodes, and Candia, and in several other Islands in the Sea.

She is somewhat larger than the Haggard-faulcon; her Plume is rusty and ragged; the Sear of her foot and Beak like the Lanner; her Pounces are short, however she hath great strength, and is hardy to all kind of Fowl. She is more disposed to the Field a great deal than to the Brook, and delights to prey on great Fowl, as the Hern, the Goose, &c. As for the Crane, she is not so free to fly at her as the Haggard-faulcon. The Saker is good also for lesser Fowl, as Pheasant, Partridge, &c. and is nothing so dainty of her Diet as Hawks long-winged.

This Hawk will make excellent sport with a Kite, who, as soon as she sees the Saker (the Male whereof is called a Sakaret) cast off, immediately betakes her self to, and trusts in the goodness of her Wings, and getteth to her pitch as high as possibly she may, by making many Turns and Wrenches in the Air: which if well observed, together with the variety of contests and bickerings that are between them, it cannot but be very pleasant and delightful to the beholder. I have known in a clear day and little wind stirring, that both the Saker and Kite have soar'd so high that the sharpest eye could not discern them, yet hath the Saker in the encounter conquered the Kite, and I have seen her come tumbling down to the ground with a strange precipitancy.

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Of all Birds the Saker hath the longest Train. This Hawk will fly at Hern, Kite, Pheasant, Partridge, Quail, and sometimes at the Hare; but her chiefest excellency consists in her flying at the Crane. Now because we have but few of them in England, I shall desist from speaking farther of the Saker, onely that she is made to the Lure as other Hawks are: and indeed all Faulcons are made after the same manner, yet are not flown withal alike; for Sakers, Lanners, Gerfaulcons, Mylions, and Merlins do not fly the River; if any do, it is very rarely.

Of the LANNER, LANNERET, and TUNISIAN.

THe Lanner is a Hawk common in all Countries, especially in France, making her Eyrie on high Trees in Forrests, or on high Cliffs near the Seaside.

She is lesser than the Faulcon-gentle, fair-plumed when an Enter-mewer, and of shorter Talons than any other Faulcon. Those who have the largest and best-seasoned Heads are the best Lanners.

With the Lanner or Lanneret you may fly the River; and both are very good also for the Land.

They are not very choice in their Food, and can better away with gross Victuals than any other Hawk.

Mew'd Lanners are hardly known from the Soarhawks, (and so likewise the Saker) because they do not change their Plume.

You may know the Lanners by these three tokens. 1. They are blanker Hawks than any other. 2. They [Page] have less Beaks than the rest. 3. And lastly, They are less armed and pounced than other Faulcons.

Of all Hawks there is none so fit for a young Faulconer as the Lanner, because she is not inclined to Surfeits, and seldom melts Grease by being over-flown.

There are a sort of Lanners which Eyrie in the Alps, having their Heads white and flat aloft, large and black Eyes, slender Nares, short and thick Beaks, and lesser than the Haggard or Faulcon-gentle. Some are indifferent large, some less, and others middlesized.

Their Mail is marble or russet; their Breast-feathers white and full of russet spots; the points and extremities of their Feathers full of white drops; their Sails and Train long: they are short Leg'd, with a foot less than that of a Faulcon, marble-seer'd; but being mew'd the Seer changeth to a yellow.

The Lanner never lieth upon the Wing after she hath flown to Mark, but after once stooping she maketh a Point, and then, like the Goshawk, waits the Fowl.

If she miss at the first down-fall and kill not, she will consult her advantage to her greatest ease.

These kind of Hawks are highly prized in France and Italy, neither is she despiseable in England; but we look upon them as slothful and hard-metled: and therefore if you intend to have any good of her, keep a strict hand over her; for she is of an ungrateful disposition, and will slight your Kindnesses, contrary to the nature of the Faulcon-gentle, who for one good usage will return a treble courtesie, and the better she is rewarded, the better she will fly.

They are flown at Field or Brook, and are Hawks that maintain long flights, whereby much Fowl is killed (and more than by a better Hawk) by reason of Dogs and Hawking-poles.

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If you will fly with a Lanner, you must keep her very sharp: and because they keep their Castings long, by reason they are hard-metled Hawks, give them therefore hard Castings made of Tow and knots of Hemp.

In the reclaiming the Lanner and the Lanneret much pains and labour must be taken, and the chiefest thing is to make her well acquainted with the Lure, which must be garnished with hard washt meat, and let her receive the major part of her Reward in bits from your hand: as for the rest of her Training, take the same course which I have directed in the manning and ordering of the Haggard-faulcon. But above all take pains to stay her, and by your utmost Art restrain her from dragging or carrying any thing from you, to which ill quality she is more inclined than any other Hawk whatever.

To conclude this Chapter, I come next to the Tunisian-Faulcon, which is not much different in nature from the Lanner, yet somewhat less, but in Foot and Plume much alike. She hath a large round Head, and is more creese than the Lanner, and more heavy and sluggish in her flight.

She is called a Tunisian-faulcon, from Tunis the Metropolis of Barbary, the Country where she usually makes her Eyrie.

They are excellent Hawks for the River, lying long upon the Wing, and will fly the Field also very well.

They naturally delight to seize upon the Hare, and will strike boldly at her. Much more might be said of her, which I here omit, she being a Hawk not very common in England.

Having cursorily discourst in as good a method as I could of the seven sorts of Faulcons, with their Manning, Reclaiming, Luring, Training, Staying, &c. [Page] I shall proceed to give you an account of some other Hawks, which I propounded and promised in the beginning of this Treatise: take them thus in order.

Of the MERLIN.

THe Merlin in Plume is much like the Haggard-Faulcon, also in the Sear of the Foot, Beak, and Talons, and is much alike in Conditions.

A Merlin well mann'd, lur'd, and carefully lookt after, will prove an excellent Hawk. Their flight is swifter than any other Hawk, and naturally they flie at Partridge, Thrush, and Lark.

It is a Bird very busie and unruly, and therefore the Faulconer ought to take special heed and care of them, lest unnaturally they eat off their own Feet and Talons, which several of them have been known to do, and die thereby. For which cause, Merlins ought not to be mew'd or intermew'd, because in the Mew they often spoil themselves.

She is accounted a Hawk of the Fist, and not of the Lure; but to my knowledge she may be brought to love the Lure very well.

She is very venturous and hardy, which may appear by her flying at Birds as big or bigger than her self, with such eagerness, as that she will pursue them even into a Town or Village.

If you will flie with a Merlin at a Partridge, chuse the Formal, which is the Female. The Jack is not worth the Training.

When you have made her to the Lure, and that she will patiently endure the Hood, then make her a Train with a Partridge: if she foot and kill it, reward her [Page] well, suffering her to take her pleasure thereon. After this, fly her at the wild Partridge; if she take or mark it at first or second flight, being retrieved by the Spaniels, feed her upon it with a reasonable Gorge, chearing her with your Voice in such manner that she may know it another time. If she prove not hardy at first Train, try her with a second or third: if she prove not then, she will prove nothing worth.

If you fly the Merlin at Lark or Linnet, let it be with a Cast of Merlins at once, because they love to fly in company: besides, it is a greater delight to the Spectators to see them fly together; you shall observe the one climb to the Mountee above the Lark, and the other to lie low for her best advantage.

When your Merlin is throughly manned and made gentle, (which you must bring to pass according to the method propounded for other Hawks) I say, when she is reclaimed, you may then carry her into the fields; where having found a Lark or Linnet, get as near as you can into the Wind to the Bird; and as soon as the Bird riseth from the ground, unhood your Cast of Merlins and cast them off, and when they have beaten down the Lark, let them feed a little thereon.

There is a sort of Larks which I would not advise the Faulconer to fly at, and they are called Cut-larks, which do not mount as the long-spur'd field-Lark, but fly straight forward, to the endangering the loss of your Hawk without any pastime or pleasure.

Of the Mewing of Merlins, Faulcons, Gerfaulcons, and Mylions at Stock or at Large: and which is the best way of Mewing.

It is the opinion of some, (but how commendable, I will leave the Reader to judge) that Merlins cannot [Page] be mew'd, or if they be, that they are very rarely good afterwards. Experience tells me the contrary: for if they be hardy, and have flown well in their Soarage, they have proved much better after mewing than before.

The time of mewing for Faulcons should be about the latter end of April; at which time set down your Faulcons, diligently observing whether they be louzy or not: if they are, pepper them, and that will infallibly kill the Lice. You must also scour them, before you cast them into the Mew.

Mewings are of two sorts; the one loose and at large, the other at the Stock or Stone.

Mewing at large is thus in short: If your Room be large, by divisions you may mew four Faulcons at once, each partition consisting of about twelve foot square, and as much in height, with two Windows two foot broad, the one opening to the North, for the benefit of cold Air; the other to the East, for the beneficial warmth of the Sun. At your East-window let there be a Board two foot broad, even with the bottom of the Window, with a Lath or Ledge round; in the middle set a green Turff, laying good store of Gravel and Stones about it, that your Hawk may take them at her pleasure.

If your Faulcon be a great Bater, let your Chamber be on the ground, which must be covered four fingers thick with gross Sand, and thereon set a Stone somewhat taper, of about a Cubit in height, on which they love to sit, by reason of its coolness.

Make her two Perches, at each Window one, to recreate her self as she pleaseth, either with Heat or Cold.

Every week or fortnight set her a Bason of Water to bathe in; and when she hath bathed therein, take it away the night following.

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Your Mew must have a Portal to convey in the Hack, a thing whereon the meat is served. I need not prescribe the manner how to make it, since it is a thing so generally known already.

You ought to keep one set-hour in feeding; for so will she mew sooner and better: when she hath fed and gorged her self, then remove the Stick from the Hack on which the meat was fastened, to keep her from dragging it into the Mew.

In the opinion of most, it is better Mewing at the Stock or Stone, which must be performed thus: Make choice of a Ground-room remote from noise or concourse of people, and therein set a Table of what length you think is most convenient for the number of your Faulcons, and of about six foot in breadth, with thin Boards along the sides and ends, about four fingers high from the superficies of the Table, which must stand on Tressels about three foot high from the ground. Let this Table be covered indifferently thick with great Sand mixt with small Pebbles, in the midst whereof place a pyramidal Free-stone about a yard in height, unto which tye your Faulcon, Gerfaulcon, Merlin or Mylion: then take a small Cord of the bigness of a Bow-string, and put it through a Ring or Swivel, and bind it about the Stone in such sort that the Swivel may go round the Stone without let or hindrance, and thereunto tye the Lease of your Hawk.

Here note, that if you mew more than one Hawk in one Room, you must set your Stones at that distance, that when they bate they may not crab one another.

The reason of placing this Stone is, because the Faulcon delights to sit thereon for its coolness sake, and the little gravelly stones the Hawk frequently swallows to cool her within. The Sand is necessary to preserve their Feathers when they bate, and their Mewets [Page] are the more easily cleansed. The little Gord with the Swivel tyed about the Stone, is to keep the Hawk from tangling when she bateth, because the Ring will still follow her.

All day let your Hawk stand hooded, onely when you take her on your Fist to feed: at night unhood her; and lest any accident should happen in the night, prejudicial to the Hawk, the Faulconer ought to lie in the Mew.

Of the HOBBY.

THe Hobby is a Hawk of the Lure, and not of the Fist, and is a high flier, and is in every respect like the Saker, but that she is a much lesser Bird.

The Hobby hath a blue Beak, but the Seer thereof and Legs are yellow: the Crinets or little Feathers under her Eye are very black; the top of her head is betwixt black and yellow, and she hath two white seams on her Neck; the Plumes under the Gorge and about the Brows, are reddish, without spot or drop; the Breast-feathers are brown for the most part, yet powdered with white spots; her Back, Train, and Wings are black aloft, having no great scales upon the Legs, unless it be a few beginning behind the three Stretchers and Pounces, which are very large in respect of her short Legs; her Brail-feathers are engouted betwixt red and black; the Pendant-feathers (which are those behind the Thigh) are of a rusty smoaky complexion. The daring Hobby may be well called so, for she is nimble and light of Wing, and dares encounter Kites, Bazzards, or Crows, and will give souse for souse, blow for blow, till sometimes they [Page] seize and come tumbling down to the ground both together.

They are chiefly for the Lark, which poor little creature so dreads the sight of a Hobby soaring in the Air over her, that she will rather chuse to commit her self to the mercy of Man or Dogs, or to be trampled on by Horses, than venture her self into that Element where she sees her mortal Enemy soaring.

The Hobby makes excellent sport with Nets and Spaniels, which is performed after this manner. The Dogs range the field to spring the Fowl, and the Hobbies soar over them alost in the Air: the silly Birds, fearing a Conspiracy between the Hawks and Dogs to their utter destruction, dare not commit themselves to their Wings, but think it safer to lie close to the ground, and so are taken in the Nets. This sport is called Daring.

Of the GOSHAWK.

THere are several sorts of Goshawks, and they are different in goodness, force, and hardiness, according to the diversity of their choice in Cawking: at which time when Hawks begin to fall to liking, all Birds of Prey do assemble themselves with the Goshawk, and flock together.

The Female is the best: and although there be some Goshawks which come from Sclavonia, Sardinia, Lombardy, Russia, Puglia, Germany, Armenia, Persia, Greece, and Africa; yet there are none better than those which are bred in the North parts of Ireland, as in the Province of Ulster, but more especially in the County of Tyrone.

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Take these Rules as to the goodness of her proportion or shape.

She ought to have a small Head, her Face long and straight, a large Throat, great Eyes, deep set, the Apple of the Eye black, Nares, Ears, Back, and Feet large and blank; a black long Beak, long Neck, big Breast, hard flesh, long Thighs, fleshy, the bone of the Leg and Knee short, long large Pounces and Talons. From the Stern or Train to the Breast forward she ought to grow round: the Feathers of the Thighs towards the Train should be large, and the Train-feathers short, soft, and somewhat tending to an Iron Mail. The Brayl-feathers ought to be like those of the Breast, and the Covert-feathers of the Train should be spotted and full of black rundles; but the extremity of every Train-feather should be black streaked.

The sign of force in a Goshawk is this: Tye divers of them in several places of one Chamber or Mew, and that Hawk that doth slise and mewt highest and farthest off from her, is without question the strongest Hawk; for the high and far mewting argues a strong Back.

I might tell you the ill shape of a Goshawk; but since I have declared the good, the bad may be collected from thence: Contraria contrariis dignoscunter. However take this general rule, That Goshawk that hath pendant Plumes over her Eyes, the whites whereof are waterish and blank, that is red-mail'd or bright tawny, hath the most assured tokens of a Hawk that is ill conditioned.

The Goshawk preyeth on the Pheasant, Mallard, Wild-goose, Hare, and Coney; nay, she will venture to seize on a Kid or Goat; which declareth the inestimable courage and valour of this Hawk.

She ought to be kept with great care, because she is very choice and dainty, and looks to have a nice hand kept over her.

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How to make the Soar or Haggard Goshawk.

First trim them with Jesses, Bewets, and Bells, as soon as they come to your hands; keep them seeled some time, hooding and unhooding them often, teaching them to feed on the Fist three or four days, or till they have left their Rammageness and become gentle: having so done, unseel them by Candle-light at night, causing them to tire or plume upon a Wing or Leg of a Pullet; and be sure to deal gently and mildly with them until you have won and throughly manned them: then you may go into some pleasant field, and first give them a bit or two hooded on your Fist, and the like unhooded, cast them down fair and softly on some Pearch, and make them come from it to your Fist, calling to them with a Faulconer's usual terms; and when they come, feed them, calling all the while in the same manner to make them acquainted with your voice. The next day you may call them with a Creance at a farther distance, feeding them as before.

When you have thus called your Goshawk abroad three or four days, and that you find her grow cunning, then take her on your Fist, and mount on Horseback, and ride with her an hour or two, unhooding and hooding her sometimes, giving her a bit or two in sight of your Spaniels, that she may not be afraid of them: this being done, set her on a Tree with a short Greance tied to her Loins, and going half a score yards from her on Horseback, call her to your Fist according to art; if she come, reward her with two or three bits, and cast her up again to the Tree: then throw out a dead Pullet (to which she was used before) about a dozen yards from her; if she fly to it and seize it, let her feed three or four bits upon it; ride [Page] the mean while about her on Horseback, and rate back your Spaniels, because they shall not rebuke her at first, and make her ever after afraid of them: then alight, and gently take her on your Fist, feed her, hood her, and let her plume or tire.

Here note, that the Goshawk is a greater Poulterer, and therefore it would be more requisite to throw out a dead Partridge, or one made artificially with its Wing, Tail and Plumage; which will cause her to know Partridge better, and Poultry less.

How to make a Goshawk fly to the Partridge.

Having manned your Goshawk, go into the field with her, carrying with you a Train-Partridge, and unhooding your Hawk, bear her as gently as you can; and you will do well to let her plume or tire, for that will make her the more eager.

If the Partridge spring, let her fly: if she mark one, two, three, or more on the ground, then go to her and make her take Pearch on some Tree thereby: then if you can retrive the Partridge with your Spaniels, as soon as they spring it you must cry, Howit, howit, and retrive it the second time, crying when it springeth as aforesaid: if your Hawk kill it, feed her upon it.

If it so happen your Spaniels should take it (as it is very frequent for hot Spaniels to light upon the Partridge, being either flown out of breath, or overcharged with fear) then alight from your Horse, and taking it speedily from the Dogs, cast it out to your Hawk crying, Ware Hawk, ware, and let her feed thereon at her pleasure.

After this you must not fly her in two days: for having fed on bloudy meat, she will not so soon be in good case to fly again; for such meat is not so easily endewed by a Hawk as the Leg of a Chicken or the like, [Page] Using her thus three or four times, she will be well in bloud, and become an excellent Flier at this pleasant Field flight.

Here note, that you must do at first with her as with other Hawks, that is, feel and watch her, and win her to feed, to the Hood, to the Fist, &c. and then enter her to young Partridges till November, at which time both Trees and Fields become bare and empty: then you may enter her to the old Rewen, setting her short and eager; if she kill, feed her up with the Partridge three or four times, and this will bring her to perfection.

If your Hawk be a good Partridger, let her not fly at the Powt or Pheasant, for they fly not so long a Flight as the Partridge; and therefore the Goshawk, being more greedy of Prey than any other Hawk, (yet desirous of ease, would always covet short Flights, not caring to hold out: not but that there are some good both for long and short flights, but they are rarely sound.

Besides, you must have a great care in keeping them in good order, with Flying, Bathing, Weathering, Tiring, and Pluming.

How to help a Goshawk that turneth Tail to Tail, and giveth over her Game.

It is usual for a Goshawk to fly at a Partridge, yet neither kill it, nor fly it to mark, but to turn Tail to Tail; that is having flown it a Bow-shot or more, she giveth over her Game, and takes a Tree: then must you call in your Spaniels to the Retrieve that way your Hawk flew the Partridge; let the Faulconer draw himself that way also, and carrying with him a quick Partridge, let him cast it out to her, which will make [Page] her believe it is the same she flew at. When you cast it out, cry, Ware Hawk, ware; make her seize it, and feed her upon it: and this will encourage her to fly out her flight another time. If the next time you fly her (which must be the third day) she serve you so again, then must you do as aforesaid with alive Partridge carried about you for that purpose: if she serve you so the third time, I would advise you to rid your hands of her as soon as you can.

How to make a Goshawk fly quickly.

The Goshawk (especially Soars and Niasses) are very loving to and fond of man, and therefore should be flown with a little more Rammage, else frequently, after two or three stroaks with their Wings, they will give over the flight, and return to the Keeper: wherefore you must fly with them as soon as you can. And yet there is an evil which attends this direction, and that is, by flying over-soon you will pull down your Hawk and make her poor, from whence proceeds fearfulness and cowardise. To remedy which, you must give your Hawk some respite, and set her up again before you fly her. There are some Goshawks (but very few) which will not fly when they are in good plight: then must you bate their flesh, and pinch them with scouring, washt meat, and the like. But the best way of flying such an one is when she is lusty and high: and to adde to her vivacity and courage, let her be set abroad in the morning an hour or two, when the weather is not very cold; for being so weather'd, when she hath flown a Partridge to the Mark, she will not away until it be retrieved by the Spaniels.

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How to fly a Goshawk to the River.

A Goshawk (but no Tiercel) may fly the River at Mallard, Duck, Goose, or Hern, with other large Water-fowl: She is made for that purpose after this manner.

First, make her to the Fist, as is prescribed in her making to the Field: then carry her into the field without Bells, and with a live Duck, which you must give to one of the company, who must hide himself in some Ditch or Pit with the Duck tied to a Creance: then must you draw near him with your Hawk unhooded on your Fist, and giving him some private notice to throw out the Duck, cast off your Hawk; and if she take it at the Source, let him reward and feed her with a reasonable Gorge: then take her upon your Fist and hood her, permitting her to tire and plume upon the Leg or Wing of the Duck. The third day go again with her into the Field in like manner, or else find out some Plash or Pool where Wild-fowl lie, taking the advantage of the rising Bank: being near the Fowl, let some of the company raise them up, and your Hawk being unhooded, cast her off; if she kill any of them at Source, make in to her quickly, and cross the Fowl's Wings, so that she may foot and plume it at her pleasure, rewarding her as before. After this, take her on your Fist, and let her tire and plume the Leg or Wing of the Fowl aforesaid.

When your Goshawk is throughly nouzled, and well in bloud, you may fly her twice a day or oftner, rewarding her as before.

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An excellent way to preserve a Goshawk in the time of her flying, especially in hot weather.

Take a pint of Red-rose-Water, put it into a Bottle, bruise one stick or two of green Liquorish and put in it likewise a little Mace, and the quantity of a Wallnut of Sugar-candy, and draw her meat through it twice or thrice a week, as you shall find occasion: It prevents the Phantass, and several Diseases they are subject to: besides, it gives a huge Breath, and gently scoureth her.

How to fly the Wild-goose or Crane with the Goshawk.

Having mann'd your Goshawk, brought her to the Fist, and train'd her with a Goose in the Field, then seek out where Wild-geese, Cranes, or other large Wildfowl lie: having found them afar off, alight and carry your Hawk unhooded behind your Horse, stalking towards them until you have got pretty nigh them, holding down your Hawk covert under the Horse's Neck or Body, yet so that she may see the Fowl: then you must raise them, and casting off your Hawk, if she kill, reward her. And thus she may kill four or five in a day.

In like manner, you may make her to the Crane, and may stalk to Fowl which lie in Ponds or Pits as aforesaid.

Here note, that if you can fly at great, slight the lesser Flights, which will make your Hawk the bolder.

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How to mew a Goshawk, and draw her out of the Mew, and make her Flying.

Having flown with a Goshawk, Tiercel, Soar, or Haggard till March, give her some good Quarry in her Foot, and having seen her clean from Lice, cut off the Buttons of her Jesses, and throw her into the Mew; which Room should be on the ground, and scituated towards the North, if possible.

Let the Pearches therein be lined with Canvas or Cotton; for otherwise by hurting her Foot she may get the Gout or Pynn.

Let the Mew have also a Window towards the East, and another Northward. There must be also a Bason of Water in the Mew for bathing, which must be shifted every three days. Feed your Hawk with Pigeons, or else with the hot Flesh of Weather-Mutton.

About the beginning of October, if you find your Goshawk fair mew'd and hard penn'd, then give her Chickens, Lambs-hearts, or Calves-hearts, for about twenty days together, to scour her, and make her slise out the slimy substance and glitt out of her Pannel, and enseam her.

Having done thus, some Evening draw her out of the Mew, and new furnish her with Jesses, Bells, Bewets, and all other things needful for her: then keep her seel'd two or three days, till she will endure the Hood patiently; for mewed Hawks are as impatient of the Hood as those newly taken.

When you have won her to endure the Hood, then in an Evening by Candle-light you may unseel her, and the next day shew her the Fist and Glove, making her to tire and plume morning and evening, giving her sometimes in the morning (when her Gorge is [Page] empty) a little Sugar-candy, which will help her in an excellent manner to endew.

When you find your Goshawk feed eagerly, and that you think in your judgement she is enseamed, and that you may boldly fly with her, then go with her into the Field; she will then bate, (if empty) and fly of her own accord: if she kill, feed and reward her; but if she fly to the mark with a Partridge, then must you retrive it, and serve her as afore declared.

Some general Observations for an Ostrager or Falconer in Keeping and Reclaiming a GOSHAWK.

It frequently happens that a Goshawk or Tiercel, where good in their Soarage, become worse after they are mewed: and the reason may be, because she was not cherished nor encouraged, to make her take delight in her Soarage.

For in a manner the major part of a Faulconer's skill consists in coying and kind usage of his Hawk, so cherishing her that she may take delight in her Flight.

At the first entring of his Hawk he ought always to have a Train-Partridge in his Bag, to serve her with when need requires, to purchase her love: and let him take such observations which may keep his Hawk always in good order. As first, he must know naturally all Goshawks are full of moist humours, especially in the Head, and therefore let him ply them with Tiring and Pluming morning and evening; for that will open them in the Head, and make them cast water thereat. Let the Goshawk's tiring be a Rum of Beef, a Pinion or the Leg of a Chicken, given by the fire, or in the warm Sun: this not onely opens her Head, but keeps her from slothfulness in good exercise.

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Give her every night Casting of Feathers or Cotton, and in the morning mark whether it be wrought round or not, whether sweet or not, whether moist or dry, and of what colour the water is that drops out of the Casting: by these means he shall know what condition his Hawk is in.

He also ought to regard her Mewts, to see whether they be clean or not, and give remedies accordingly. He ought also to consider the season; for in cold weather he must set his Hawk in some warm place where fire is made; he must line the Pearch with Canvas or Cotton, and must set it so far from the Wall that the Hawk hurt not her Feathers when she bateth. If the weather be temperate, he may then set her in the Sunshine for an hour or two in the morning.

Let no Hens or Poultry come near the place where your Hawk doth Pearch; and in the Spring offer her water every week, or else she will soar away from you when she flieth, and you may go look her.

If your Hawk bathe her self spontaneously in cold weather after her flight, go presently to the next house and weather her with her Back to the fire, and not her Gorge, for that will make her sick: and dry your Hawk if you have carried her in the Rain.

A good Faulconer will always keep his Hawk high and lusty, yet so that she may be always in a condition to fly best.

Also he must keep his Hawk clean, and her Feathers whole: and if a Feather be broken or bruised, he must presently imp it; and to that end he must have his Imping-needles, his Semond, with other Instruments always in readiness.

The first year it is most requisite to fly your Goshawk to the Field, and not to the Covert; for so they will learn to hold out, and not turn tail in the midst of their slight: and when they are mewed Hawks, you [Page] may make them do what you will: and it is better to let her be a little rammage than to be overmanned.

Her feeding is best on hot meats: and if you would instruct her to kill great Fowl, make her Trains thereof; and if you would have her continue those Flights, never fly her at less, for that will take her off from them and spoil her. If you will make her to fly with a Dog to assist her, then feed your Hawk with great Fowl, and your Dogs with flesh tied under their Wings. If you train your Hawk with them, rewarding her upon the Train, and your Dog with her, this will make them acquainted together.

Thus continue doing till your Dog throughly knows his duty: and be sure to keep your Dog tied up; for if you let him go loose, it will spoil the best Dog that is: and never give him a reward, but when he maketh in at such Fowls to rescue the Hawk.

Call your Goshawk to no other thing than your Fist, and oftentimes spurt good wine on your Goshawks Sears: And note, that in all her Distempers sweet things are best to be administred in her Medicines.

Of the SPARROW-HAWK.

THe last Hawk which we shall treat of, is the Sparrow-hawk; of which there are several kinds, and of different Plumes.

For the kinds, there is the Sclavonian, Calabrian, Corsican, German, Vicentian, and Veronian, Alpisan, Sabbean, and Bergamascan, in the black Vale near the Confines of Valtolina. It is needless to give you a particular account of them.

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Their Plumes are different: some are small plumed and blank Hawks, others of a larger Feather, some plumed like the Quail, some brown or Canvas-mail'd, and others have just thirteen Feathers in their Train, &c.

To be short, this Character I mav justly give the Sparrow-hawk in general, that she is in her kind, and for that Game her strength will give her leave to kill, a very good Hawk. Besides, he that knows how to man, reclaim, and fly with a Sparrow-hawk, may easily know how to keep and deal with all other Hawks.

And herein lieth an excellency in the Sparrow-hawk, she serves both for Winter and Summer with great pleasure, and will fly at all kind of Game more than the Faulcon. If the Winter-Sparrow-hawk prove good, she will kill the Pie, the Chough, the Jay, Wood-cock, Thrush, Black-bird, Felfare, with divers other Birds of the like nature.

How to make a Sparrow-hawk, whether Eyess, Brancher, Soar, Mew'd, or Haggard.

Sparrow-hawks are to be considered as all other kinds of Hawks are, according to their age and disposition.

The several kinds of Sparrow-hawks may be comprehended under these five heads; the Eyesses or Nyesses, Branchers, Soars, Mew'd, and Haggards.

Eyesses, are mewed in the Wood, and are taken in the Eyrie.

Branchers, are those which have forsaken the Eyrie, and are fed near it by the old ones on Boughs and Branches.

Soar-hawks, are so called, because, having forsaken [Page] the Eyrie, and beginning to prey for themselves, they soar up alost for pleasure.

Mew'd Hawks, are such which have once or more shifted the Feather.

Lastly, Haggards, are they which prey for themselves, and do also mew in the Wood or at large.

This division of kindes is not peculiar to the Sparrow-Hawk, but common to all: give me leave to run them over in order as I have set them down.

For the Eyress or Nyess, (which is of greatest difficulty to bring to any perfection) you must first feed her in some cool Room which hath two Windows, the one to the North, and the other to the East, which must be open, and barred over with Laths, not so wide for a Hawk to get out, or Vermin to come in: strow the Chamber with fresh Leaves, and do in every respect to this Room as I have ordered in a former Chapter for the Mewing the Faulcon.

You must feed your Eyess with Sparrows, young Pigeons, and Sheeps-hearts. Whilst she is very young and little you should cut her meat, or shred it into small pellets, and feed her twice or thrice a day, according as you find her endew it or put it over.

When she is full summed and flieth about, then give her whole small Birds, and sometimes feed her on your Fist, suffering her to strain and kill the Birds in your hand; and sometimes put live Birds into the Chamber where she is, that she may learn to know to foot and to kill them; and let her feed upon them in your presence: by this course you will not onely neul her, but take her off from that scurvy quality of hiding her Prey when she hath seized it, a natural property belonging to all Eyesses. Likewise every morning go into the Room, call her to your Fist, whistle and use such terms as you would have her hereafter acquainted with. When she hath put forth all her Feathers and is full [Page] summed, then take her out of the Chamber, and furnish her with Bells, Bewets, Jesses, and Lines.

It will be altogether requisite to seel her at first, that she may the better endure the Hood and handling: and let it be a Rufter-hood that is large and easie, which you must pull off and put on frequently, stroaking her often on the head, till she will stand gently.

In the Evening by Gandle-light unseel her, giving her somewhat to tire upon, handling and stroaking her Feathers gently, hooding and unhooding her as often as you think fit.

Before I proceed any farther, I shall inform you how to Seela Hawk after the best manner. Take a Needle threaded with untwisted Thread, and casting your Hawk take her by the Beak, and put the Needle through her Eye-lid, not right against the sight of the Eye, but somewhat nearer the Beak, that she may have liberty to see backward; and have especial care that you hurt not the Web: then put your Needle through the other Eye-lid, drawing the ends of the Thread together, tie them over the Beak, not with a straight knot, but cut off the Threads near to the end of the knot, and so twist them together, that the Eye-lids may be raised so upwards that the Hawk may not see at all, but as the Thread shall slacken, she shall be able to see backwards only, which is the cause that the Thread is put nearer the Beak.

When your Eyess is well won to the Hood, and to the Fist, let her kill small birds thereon; then call her two or three days or longer, till she will come far off; then take a live Pidgeon tied by the Foot with a Creance, and stir it till your Hawk will bate at it and seize it, but not far off that you may quickly help her at the first, lest the Pidgeon struggling with her she prove too strong, and so discourage your young Hawk: [Page] then let her plume and foot her, and feed her thereupon, whistling the while, that she may know it another time: then hood her, and let her plume and tire a little.

You may use her to Trains of Chicken and Quail: and when she will seize readily by often Training, ride out with her in the morning into the Fields, where calling your Sparrow-hawk to your Fist, and giving her a bit or two, go with your Spaniels to seek some Beavy of young Quails, advancing your Fist aloft, that your Hawk may see them when they spring, flying her at advantage: if she kill reward her, &c. if she miss, serve her with the Train of a Quail.

Let your Dogs hunt on your right hand when they range, but especially when they quest and call, to the end you may the better cast off your Hawk. When your Hawk is throughly entred and well nouzled, you may then hold your hand low, for she will now bate at the Whur: but whatsoever you do, have a quick eye and a good regard to the Spaniels, not coveting to be too near them, but a little above them, that you may let your Hawk fly coasting at the advantage when the Game springeth.

Of the Brancher, Sodr, Mew'd, and Haggard Sparrow-hawk.

Having spoken of the first kind of Sparrow-haws, viz. the Eyess, the other four in the Title of this Chapter must consequently be discoursed of.

I shall give you but few instructions, for in effect the same Precepts that serve for the Eyess will serve also for the Brancher, Soar, Mew'd, and Haggard Hawks; onely this, these four last require not so much pains to be taken to make them know their Game as the Eyess, [Page] because they have been accustomed to prey for themselves.

Above all things, the Faulconer must take them off from their ill custom of carrying, and that may be done by serving them with great Trains, whereby they will learn to abide on the Quarry.

Be very mindful of coying them as much as you can, for they will remember a kindness or injury better than any other Hawk.

If the Hawk be newly taken, and will not feed, then rub her Feet with warm flesh, whistling to her, and sometimes putting the flesh unto her Beak: if she will not yet feed, rub her Feet with a live Bird; if at the crying of the Bird the Hawk seizeth it with her Feet, it is a signe she will feed; then tear off the Skin and Feathers of the Bird's Breast, and put the Bird to her Beak, and she will eat.

When she will feed upon your whistle and chirp, then hood her with a Rufter-hood, and feed her betimes in the morning; and when she hath endewed, give her a Beaching in the day-time, and every time you hood her, give her a bit or two; at evening give her the Brains of a Hen for her supper: and in every thing else order these Hawks aforesaid, as you do the Faulcon and the rest.

How to mew Sparrow-hawks.

Some use to put their Sparrow-hawk into the Mew as soon as they leave flying her, cutting off both her Bewets, Lines, and knots of her Jesses, and so leave them in the Mew till they are clean mewed.

If you will have your Sparrow-hawk to fly at Quail, Partridge, or Pheasant-powt, then you must draw her in the beginning of April, and bear her on the Fist till she be clean and throughly enseamed.

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Others keep their Sparrow-hawks on the Pearch until March, and then throw them into the Mew, pepering them for Lice, if they have any. Her Mew should be a Chamber alost from the ground, eight or nine foot long, and about six foot broad: her Windows and Pearches must be like the Goshawks.

Her Mew being thus provided, in May go in to her in an Evening by Candle-light, and taking her up softly, pull out all her Train-feathers one after another: this shall make her mew the faster, especially if you feed her with hot meat and Birds, observing a certain hour to feed her in.

Once in fourteen days set water before her in the Mew: if you perceive she hath any Feathers or Down which stand staring upon her Back, sitting as if she would rouze, then set her water sooner. If you put water by her continually, it delays her Mewing; and to keep it always from her, causeth her to mew her Feathers uncleanly: but water once in a fortnight is the best Medium for her Mewing between those two extreams.

Thus having given you a summary account of most Hawks commonly in use in England, and in most parts of Europe, shewing their Shapes, Complexions, Natures, manner of Manning, Reclaiming, Ordering, Luring, Flying, Mewing, &c. I shall next give you an account of the several Diseases and Maladies they are subject to, with their proper Cures and Remedies: but before I shall enter thereon, give me leave to inform the Ostrager or Faulconer of his necessary duties.

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The Duty of a Faulconer; with necessary Rules and Observations for him to follow.

A Faulconer ought to consult and consider the quality and mettle of his Hawks, and to know which of them he shall fly with early, and with which late.

He must be fond of his Hawk, patient, and cleanly in keeping her from Lice, Mites, and the like Vermin. He must rather keep his Hawks high and full of flesh, than poor and low, which makes them more subject to infirmities than when they are in very good plight.

Every night after flying, he must give his Hawk Casting, sometimes Plumage, sometimes Pellets of Cotton, and sometimes Physick, as he shall find her diseased by her Casting or Mewt.

Every night he must make the place very clean under her Pearch, that he may know by her Casting whether the Hawk stands in need of Scourings upwards or downwards.

Let him remember every Evening to weather his Hawk, excepting such days wherein she hath bathed; after which, in the Evening she should be put into a warm Room on a Pearch with a Candle burning by her, where she must sit unhooded, if she be not rammage, to the intent she prune and pick her self, and rejoyce by enoiling her self after bathing: and in the morning he ought to weather her, and let her cast, if the hath not done it already, keeping her still hooded till he carry her to the field.

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In feeding his Hawk he must have a care of feeding her with two sorts of meat at one time; and what he giveth her must be very sweet.

If he have an occasion to go abroad, let him have a care that he pearch not his Hawk too high from the ground, for fear of bating and hanging by the Heels, whereby she may spoil herself.

He ought to carry to the Field with him Mummy in powder, with other Medicines; for frequently the Hawk meets with many accidents, as bruises at encounters, &c. neither must he forget to carry with him any of his necessary Hawking-implements.

Lastly, he must be able to make his Lures, Hoods of all sorts, Jesses, Bewets, and other needful Furniture for his Hawk: neither must he be without his Coping-Irons to cope his Hawk's Beak, if it be overgrown, and to cope her Pounces and Talons, as need shall require: neither must he be without his Cauterizing-Irons.

Let these Instructions suffice, I being willing to leave the rest to the care and observation of the ingenious Faulconer.

Of Diseases and dangerous Accidents incident to HAWKS, and their several Cures.

IT is necessary for a skilful Faulconer not onely to know how to Man, Reclaim, Keep, Fly, Imp, and Mew his Hawks, with other things pertinent to that purpose; but also to know their Diseases, with the proper Cures of them, and other Accidents frequently [Page] befalling Hawks, both in their Fights and otherways.

Before we shall characterize their Maladies and prescribe Rules for their Cures, it will not be irrequisite to tell you that Hawks, as well as men, (which seems somewhat strange) have four Complexions, the true indicators of their natures: and as in man his natural Complection and Constitution is known by his Skin, so is the Temperament and natural Disposition of a Hawk by her Coat and Plume. This opinion hath not been onely averr'd by the Ancients, but confirmed by the modern experience of the Skilful in the noble Art of Hawking. Take it in this manner.

Faulcons that are black are Melancholick, and are to be physicked with hot and moist Medicines, because their Complexion is cold and dry; for which purpose Aloes, Pepper, Cocks-flesh, Pigeons, Sparrows, Goatsflesh, and the like, are very good.

Faulcons blank are Phlegmatick, and must have Physick hot and dry, because Phlegm is cold and moist; to which purpose Cinamon, Cloves, Cardamomum, Goats-flesh, Choughs, &c. are very good.

Faulcons Russet are Sanguine and Chelerick indifferently mix'd, and their Physick must be cold, moderately moist and dry, as Myrtles, Cassia-fistula, Tamarinds, Vinegar, I ambs-flesh, and Pullets.

Thus much for the Complexions: Now for the Diseases and their Cures.

Of Castings, and Mewtings, either good or bad according to their several Complexions and Smells.

Castings are of two sorts, Plumage, or Cotton: the latter is most commonly given in Pellets, which must be about the bigness of an Hazie-nut, made of fine soft [Page] white Cotton: after she hath supp'd you must convey this into her Gorge.

In the morning diligently observe how she hath rolled and cast it, whereby you shall know whether she be in a bad or good condition: for example, if she cast it round, white, not stinking, nor very moist or waterish, you may conclude her sound; but if she roll it not well, but cast it long, with properties contrary to the former, then she is unfound and full of Diseases.

Besides, if her Casting be either black green, yellowish, slimy, or stinking, it denotes your Hawk to be diseased. The former Casting is remedied by hot meats; the latter by feeding her well, and washing her meats in cool water, as of Endive, &c. and give her one or two Castings of Cotton, incorporating therewith Incense and Mummy. But if she continue notwithstanding in this condition, give her an upward Scowring made thus: Take Aloes pulverized one scruple, powder of Clove four grains, powder of Cubebs three grains; incorporate these, and wrap them in Cotton, and give it your Hawk empty, having no meat in her Pannel.

Casting of Plumage is to be observed as the former Casting: that is, if in the morning you find them round and not stinking, it is a good signe; but if long, slimy, with indigested flesh sticking to the same, and having an ill scent, it is very bad. Here note, that by how much the more sweet or stinking the Casting is, by so much is the Hawk in a better or worse condition.

Mewts must be observed as well as Castings, in this manner: If the Mewt be white, not very thick nor clear, having no black spot in it, or but very little, it is a signe of the healthy constitution of the Hawk; but if it be white and very thick in the middle, though it [Page] doth not import sickness, yet it sheweth her to be too gross and over-full of Grease; which you must remedy by giving her moist meats, as the Heart of a Calf or Lamb, &c. and for two mornings after give her some Sugar-candy, or else the Gut of a Chicken well washt and fill'd with Oyl-Olive: either of these will scour her, and make her to slise freely.

It is a very bad and mortal signe, to see your Hawk's Mewt full of variety of colours: therefore you must speedily prevent ensuing mischiefs by giving her Mummy purified and beaten to powder, wrapping it in Cotton.

If the Mewt be more yellow then white, then doth she abound with Choler proceeding from great Flights in hot weather, also from much Bating. This is remedied by washing her meat in Bugloss, Endive, Borage, and such-like cold Waters, wringing the said meat after you have so washed it.

The black Mewt is a most deadly signe, and if it continue four days she will peck over the Pearch and die. If she mewt so but once, there is no great danger, for it proceeds either from the Blood or Guts of the Fowl in tiring, or else-from being gorged with filthy meats: in this case give her good warm meat and Cotton-casting, with the powder of Gloves, Nutmeg, and Ginger, or Mummy alone.

If the Mewt be green, it is a bad signe, and denotes her troubled with an infected and corrupt Liver, or with some Apostume, unless she be a Rammage-Hawk, and then that signe holds not good. Her cure is, by feeding her with meat powdered with Mummy; if she will not take it with her Food, then give it her in a Scowring or Casting: but if this ill-colour'd Mewting continue still, then give her a Scowring of Agarick, and after that another of Incense pulverized to comfort her.

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The dark sanguine Mewt with a black in it is the most deadly signe of all, and differs but little, if any thing, from the former black Mewt. A Hawk mewting after this manner is irrecoverable, and therefore it is needless to prescribe a Cure.

Lastly, the gray Mewt like sour Milk, is a mortal token, yet curable, as shall be shewn hereafter.

Thus you see how requisite it is for a Faulconer to observe diligently every morning his Hawk's Castings and Mewtings, that knowing thereby their Maladies, he may timely finde out their Remedies. Let us now proceed to their particular Diseases.

Of the Cataract.

The Cataract in the Eyes of a Hawk, is a malady not easily removed, and sometimes incurable, when it is too thick and of a long continuance.

It proceedeth from gross Humours in the Head, which frequently do not onely dim, but extinguish the sight: and sometimes the Hood is the cause of this mischief.

The cure must be effected by Scowring her two or three days with Aloes or Agarick: then take the powder of washt Aloes finely beaten one scruple, and two scruples of Sugar-candy; mingle these together, and with a Quill blow it into your Hawk's Eye afflicted as aforesaid three or four times a day. This is the gentlest and most Soveraign Medicine of any yet I have tried. But if this will not do, you must use stronger Medicines, as the juice of Celandine-roots, bathing their eyes often with warm Rose-water wherein hath been boil'd the seeds of Fenugreek.

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Of the Pantas or Asthma.

The Pantas is a dangerous Distemper, and few Hawks escape which are afflicted therewith. It happens when the Lungs are as it were so baked by excessive heat, that the Hawk cannot draw her breath, and when drawn, cannot well emit it again. You may judge of the beginning of this Distemper by the Hawk's labouring much in the Pannel, moving her Train often up and down at each motion of her Pannel; and she cannot many times mewt or slise; or if she do, she drops it fast by her. It is known likewise by your Hawk's frequent opening her Clap and Beak.

The best Remedy is, to scour your Hawk with good Oyl-Olive well washed in several Waters till it become clear and white, which you must do after this manner: Take an earthen Pot with a small hole in the bottom thereof, which you must stop with your Finger; then pour therein your Oyl with a quantity of Water, and coil these together with a Spoon till the Water grow darkish; after which remove your Finger, and the Water will run out, but the Oyl remain behind floating on the top; thus do seven or eight times, till you have throughly purified the Oyl: Then take a Sheep's Gut above an Inch long for a Faulcon and Goshawk, but of less length for lesser Hawks, and fill it with this Oyl, and fasten it with Thread at both ends. Your Hawk having first cast, convey this Gut into her Throat, holding her on the Fist till she make a Mewt; an hour after she hath done mewting feed her with a Calf's Heart or a Pullet's Leg, giving her every third or fourth day a Cotton casting with Cubebs and Cloves. I shall onely adde one Receipt more for the Pantas or Asthma, and that is the Oyl of sweet Almonds poured into a washt Chicken's Gut, and given [Page] the Hawk; which is of great efficacy in the cure of this Disease.

Of Worms.

There are a sort of Worms an Inch long, which frequently afflict Hawks, proceeding from gross and viscous Humours in the Bowels, occasioned through want of natural heat and ill digestion.

You may know when she is troubled with them by her casting her Gorge, her stinking Breath, her trembling and writhing her Train, her croaking in the night, her offering with her Beak at her Breast or Pannel, and by her Mewt being small and unclean.

You may cure her of them with a Scowring of washt Aloes, Hepatick, Mustard-seed, and Agarick, of each an equal quantity; or the powder of Harts-horn dried; or lastly, a Scowring of white Dittander, Aloes, Hepatick washt four or five times, Cubebs, and a little Saffron wrapt in some flesh, to cause her to take it the better.

Of the Filanders.

There are several sorts of Filanders, but I shall speak but of one sticking to the Reins. They are Worms as small as a Thread, and about an Inch long, and lie wrapt up in a thin Skin or Net near the Reins of a Hawk, apart from either Gut or Gorge.

You shall know when your Hawk is troubled with them, by her poverty, by ruffling her Train, by straining the Fist or Pearch with her Pounces, and lastly, by croaking in the night when the Filanders prick her. You must remedy this Malady betimes, before these Worms have enlarged themselves from their proper station, roving elsewhere to your Hawk's ruine and destruction.

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You must not kill them as other Worms, for fear of Impostumes from their corruption, being incapable to pass away with the Hawk's Mewt; but onely stupifie them, that they may be offensive but seldom; and that is done thus: Take a head of Garlick, taking away the outmost rinde; then with a Bodkin heated in the fire, make holes in some Cloves, then steep them in Oyl three days, and after this give her one of the Cloves down her Throat, and for forty days after she will not be troubled with the Filanders. Wherefore a Faulconer will shew himself prudent, if, seeing his Hawk low and poor, he give her once a month a Clove of this Garlick for prevention of the Filanders.

Another approved Medicine for Filanders or Worms in Hawks.

Take half a dozen Cloves of Garlick, boil them in Milk until they are very tender, then take them out and dry the Milk out of them; then put them into a spoonful of the best Oyl of Olives you can get, and when she hath cast, in the morning give these to your Hawk, feed her not in two hours after, and be sure it be warm meat, and not much, and keep her warm that day for fear of taking cold; give her the Oyl with the Garlick: they must steep all night.

Of Hawks Lice.

These Lice do most infest the Head, the Ply of a Hawk's Wings, and her Train. In the winter you may kill them thus: Take two drams of Pepper beaten to powder, and mingle it with warm Water, and with this Lotion wash the places infested with these Lice or Mites: then set your Hawk on a Pearch with [Page] her Back and Train against the Sun; then hold in your hand a small Stick about a handful long, with a piece of soft Wax at the end of it, and with that (whilst the Hawk is weathering her self) take away those Vermin crawling upon the Feathers. You may do well to adde to the Pepper and Water some Stavesacre.

In the Summer-time you may kill the Lice with Auripigmentum beaten to powder, and strowed on the places where they lie.

A safe and easie way to kill Lice in Hawks.

Mail your Hawk in a piece of Cotton, if not in some Woollen-Cloath, and put between the Head and her Hood a little Wooll or Cotton: then take a Pipe of Tobacco, and, putting the little end in at the Tream, blow the Smoak, and what Lice escape killing, will creep into the Cloath. This is a certain way.

How to keep and maintain all manner of Hawks in health, good plight, and liking.

In the first place, never give them a great Gorge, especially of gross meats, as Beef, Pork, and such as are hard to be endewed and put over.

Secondly, never feed them with the flesh of any Beast that hath lately gone to Rut; for that will insensibly destroy them.

Thirdly, if you are constrained to give your Hawk gross food, let it be well soaked first in clean Water, and afterwards sufficiently wrung; in Summer with cold Water, in Winter with luke-warm Water.

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Ever observe to reward your Hawks with some good live meat, or else they will be brought too low: however, the serving them with washt meats is the way to keep them in health.

I shall conclude how to keep Hawks in perfect health with this most excellent Receipt. Take Germander, Pelamountain, Basil, Grummel-seed, and Broom-flowers, of each half an ounce; Hyssop, Sassifras, Polypodium, and Horse-mints, of each a quarter of an ounce, and the like of Nutmegs; Cubebs, Borage, Mummy, Mugwort, Sage, and the four kinds of Mirobolans, of each half an ounce; of Aloes Succotrine the fifth part of an ounce, and of Saffron one whole ounce. All these you must pulverize, and every eighth or twelfth day give your Hawks the quantity of a Bean thereof with their meat. If they will not take it so, put it into a Hens Gut tied at both ends, and let him stand empty an hour after.

Of the Formica.

This is a Distemper which commonly seizeth on the Horn of Hawks Beaks, which will eat the Beak away: and this is occasioned by a Worm, as most men are of opinion.

You may perceive it by this; the Beak will grow rugged, and it will begin to separate from the Head.

To remedy this Malady, you must take the Gall of a Bull, and break it into a Dish, and adde thereto the powder of Aloes-Succatrine: mingle these well together, and anoint the Clap or Beak of your Hawk therewith, and the very place where the Formica grows, twice a day; but touch not her Eyes or Nares: continue thus doing till your Hawk be perfectly cured, and bathe her with Orpiment and Pepper to keep her from other Vermin.

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Of the Frownce.

The Frownce proceedeth from moist and cold Humours which descend from the Hawk's Head to the Palate and root of the Tongue, by means whereof they lose their appetite, and cannot close their Clap. This by some is called the Eagles-bane; for she seldom dieth of age, but of the over-growing of her Beak.

You may know if your Hawk be troubled with this Distemper, by opening her Beak, and seeing whether her Tongue be swoln or no: if it be, she hath it.

There are several ways to cure this Distemper, but the best that ever yet I could find for it, is, onely to take the powder of Alume reduced to a Salve with strong wine-vinegar, and wash the Hawk's Mouth therewith.

To cure the dry Frownce.

Take a Quill and cut it in the shape of a Pen, and at the other end tie a fine little Rag; with one end scrape off the white Skin which you will see in the Mouth or Throat of your Hawk until it bleedeth: then with the other end wash it with the juice of Lemon or White-wine-Vinegar very clean; then take a little burnt Alume, and some of a Shoe-soal burnt upon Wood-coals and beaten to powder; mix them, and lay them on the place or places; but let your Hawk have no meat above, nor be ready to be fed: by this I have cured many.

Of the Pip.

The Pip frequently troubleth Hawks, as it doth Chickens, and proceedeth from cold and moistness of [Page] the Head, or from feeding on gross meat not well washt in warm Water in the Winter, and cold Water in the Summer.

The Symptoms of this Distemper are the Hawk's frequent Sniting, and making a noise twice or thrice in her Sniting.

For the Cure hereof, you must cast your Hawk gently, and look upon the tip of her Tongue, and if you find the Pip there, you must scour her with a Pill made of Agarick and Hiera picra given two or three days together with her Casting at night; this will cleanse her Head, and the sooner if she be made to tire against the Sun in the Morning: Then bind a little Cotton to the end of a Stick, and dipping it in good Rose-water wash her Tongue therewith: after this anoint it three or four days with Oyl of sweet Almonds and Oyl-olive well washed as aforesaid. Having so done, you will find the Pip all white and soft: then take an Awl, and with the point thereof lift up the Pip softly, and remove it, as Women pip ther Chickens, but remove it not till it be throughly ripe; and wet her Tongue and Palate twice or thrice a day with the aforesaid Oyl, till she be throughly cured.

How to remedy that Hawk which Endeweth not, nor Putteth over as she should do.

This happens either by being foul within, or by a Surfeit; or else when she was low and poor her Keeper over-gorged her, by being too hasty to set her up, and she being weak was not able to put over and endew, and surfeited thereupon.

The Cure whereof is this: You must feed her with light meats, and a little at once, as with young Rats and [Page] and Mice, Chickens or Mutton dipt in Goats-milk or otherwise; or give her a quarter of a Gorge of the yolk of an Egg.

If you feed her with the flesh of any living Fowl, first steep it well in the blood of the same Fowl so shall your Hawk mount her flesh apace; if you also scour her with Pills made of Lard, Marrow of Beef, Sugar and Saffron mixed together, and given her three mornings together, giving her also a reasonable Gorge two hours after.

How to make a Hawk feed eagerly that hath lost her Appetite, without bringing her low.

A Hawk may lose her Appetite by taking too great Gorges in the Evening, which she cannot well endew; or by being foul in the Pannel; or sometimes by Colds.

To remedy which, take Aloes Succotrina, boil'd Sugar, and Beef marrow, of each alike, onely less of the Aloes; incorporate these, and make them into Balls or Pills as big as Beans, and give of them to your Hawk, and hold her in the Sun till she hath cast up the filth and slime within her; then feed her not till noon, at which time give her good meat; and three days after for the same Disease it is good tiring on Stockdoves, small Birds, Rats or Mice.

How to raise a Hawk that is low and poor.

The Poverty of a Hawk happens several ways: either by the ignorance of the Faulconer of some latent lurking Distemper; or by her soaring away, and so being lost four or five days, in which time, finding little or no Prey, she becomes poor and lean.

To set her up you must feed her, a little at once, and often, with good meat and of light digestion, as small [Page] Birds, Rats, Mice, &c. Or thus: take two spoonfuls of Honey, four of fresh Butter, and boil them together in a new earthen pot of Water; then take Pork well washed, and steep it in that Water, giving your Hawk a reasonable Gorge thereof twice a day, warming the said Water when you intend to feed your Hawk; and get some Snails that breed in running Waters, and give them her in the morning, and they will not onely scour away the gross slimy humours which are within, but also nourish her exceedingly.

How to remedy a Hawk that is slothful, and is averse to flying.

A Hawk frequently hath no minde to fly, either by reason of her ill keeping, that is, when she is kept by those who know not how to give her her Rights, as bouzing, bathing, &c. or because the Hawk is too high and full of grease, or too poor and low: by the first she becomes proud and coy, and by the latter so weak that she wants strength and spirit to perform it.

For the curing of which Distemper, she ought to be thoroughly view'd by some skilful Faulconer, by whom such Remedies should be administred to her as are needful for her: but above all, there is nothing like giving her in a morning three or four Pills of Celandine well washt.

Of Swoln Feet in a Hawk.

Hawks have Swelling in their Feet upon several accounts: sometimes by chafing their Feet in flying their Prey, striking it, and taking cold thereupon; sometimes for want of rolling or lining the Pearch with some soft warm cloath; or else through gross humours and foulness within, which through exercise drop down into their Feet, and so cause them to swell: lastly, this [Page] swelling happens by pricks when they fly fiercely into Bushes after Game.

For a Remedy, you must scour your Hawk three mornings together with the pills of Lard, Marrow, Sugar and Saffron, and set her in the Sun: two days after this feed her with good meat: then take Bole-Armoniack, and half the quantity of Sanguis Draconis; and having made them into powder, temper them well together with the White of an Egg and Rose-water, and anoint her Feet twice a day three or four days together, setting her on some Cloth to keep her Feet warm.

How to scour Hawks before you cast them into the Mew.

When Mewing-time is come, you must scour and cleanse your Hawks; for in luring and flying-time by foul feeding they ingender Filanders and other Distempers, whereof they die for want of timely care and cure.

When you set down your Hawk use the same as you find Page 246, which will not only kill the Worm, but scour a Hawk also.

The best way is, (when you mean to cast a Hawk into the Mew) first to scour her well according to former directions, to cope her, and set her up well in flesh, to discharge her as near as you can of all Diseases, also to free her from Mites and Lice, to set her Water, sometimes to feed her with young Rats, Mice, Dogs-flesh, Pigeons, Rabbets, and now and then with some liquid thing and meats laxative.

Take notice of this special Observation: A Haggard is not to be cast in loose to the Mew, but is to be mewed on the Fist; for otherwise she will become too coy and strange: and if she fall to bating [Page] and beating her self for heat, then must you hood her up, or bespout her with cold water, which is the readiest way to make her leave Bating.

You must continue her on the Fist till she begin to shed her Feathers; then set her down, and tie her to a Stone or Pearch, as you do the rest; and after she hath mewed and comes to fly, then let her stand on a Block or Billet cased or rolled. In the same manner mew Goshawks, Tierces, and Sparrow-hawks; onely they will not be born on the Fist, but be at liberty in the Mew, and very cleanly served.

Fifteen or twenty days before you draw your Hawk out of the Mew, you must begin to abate her of her diet, the sooner and better to enseam her. And forget not to feed her with washed meat, which will prevent many dangers that may follow.

Many more Diseases there are incident, and Accidents happening to Hawks, of which with their Cures there are large Discourses written in Italian, French, and English, and therefore I thought fit to insert in this place no other Maladies than what most usually occur: If you desire to be further satisfied, I shall refer you to those larger and (it may be) less useful Volumes.

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An Abstract Of such STATUTE-LAWS As concern HAWKING.

STat. 11 H. 7. cap. 17. None shall take out of the Nest any Eggs of Faulcon, Goshawk, Lanner, or Swan, in pain of a year and a days imprisonment, and to incur a Fine at the King's pleasure, to be divided betwixt the King and the owner of the Ground where the Eggs shall be so taken.

II. None shall bare any Hawk of English breed called an Eyess, Goshawk, Cassel Lanner, Lanneret, or Faulcon, in pain to forfeit the same to the King.

III. He that brings an Eyess from beyond the Sea, shall have a Certificate under the Customers Seal where he lands, or if out of Scotland, then under the Seal of the Lord-Warden or his Lieutenant, testifying that she is a forrein Hawk, upon the like pain of forfeiting the Hawk.

IV. None shall take or fear away any of the Hawks abovesaid from their Coverts where they use to breed, in pain of 10 l. to be recovered before Justices of Peace, and divided betwixt the King and the Prosecutor.

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Stat. 34 Edw. 3. cap. 22. A Hawk taken up shall be delivered to the Sheriff, who after Proclamation made in the Market-Towns of the County (if challenged) shall deliver her to the right owner.

II. If the Hawk were taken up by a mean man, and be not challenged within Four Moneths, the Sheriff shall detain her, satisfying the party for taking her; but if by a man of Estate, who may conventently keep an Hawk, the Sheriff shall restore her to him again, he answering for the charge of keeping her.

III. If any do take away or conceal a Hawk, he shall answer the value thereof to the owner, and suffer two years imprisonment; and in case he be not able to answer the value, he shall remain in Prison a longer time.

Stat. 37 Edw. 3. cap. 19. He that steals and carries away an Hawk, not observing the Drdinance of 34 Edw. 3. 22. shall be deemed a Felon.

FINIS.

3

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THE GENTLEMAN'S Recreation: Containing DIRECT RULES For the Famous Game of FOWLING: With Instructions for the taking of all manner of LAND and WATER-FOWL. Whether by FOWLING-PIECE, NET, ENGINE, or otherways. With a short Account of Singing-Birds. To which is added An Abstract of all Statute or Penal-Laws relating to that curious Art.

The Third Part.

London: Printed by J. C. and F. C. for N. C.

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OF FOWLING: OR, The compleat Art and Secrets of Fowling, either by Water or by Land, according to ancient and modern Experience.

What Fowling is; with the nature and diversity of all manner of Fowl.

FOWLING is used two manner of ways: either by Enchantment, or Enticement; by winning or wooing the Fowl unto you by Pipe, Whistle, or Call; or else by Engine, which unawares surprizeth them.

Fowl are of divers sorts, which alter in their nature as their Feathers; but by reason of their multiplicity, I shall for brevity-sake distinguish them onely into two kinds, Land and Water-Fowl.

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The Water-fowl are so called from the natural delight they still take in and about the Water, gathering from thence all their food and nutriment.

Here note, that Water-fowl are in their own nature the subtilest and wisest of Birds, and most careful of their own safety: Hence they have been formerly compared to an orderly and well-governed Camp, having Scouts on land afax off, Courts of Guards, Sentinels, and all-sorts of other watchful Officers surrounding the body, to give an alarm on any approach of seeming danger.

For in your observation you may take notice, that there will be ever some straggling Fowl, which lie aloof from the greater number, which still call first. Now it is the nature of Water-fowl to fly in great Flocks, having always a regard to the general safety; so that if you see a single Fowl, or a couple fly together, you may imagine they have been somewhere affrighted from the rest by some sudden amazement or apprehension of danger: but so naturally are they inclined to society, that they seldom leave wing till they meet together again. And this is occasioned not only by the near approach of men, but also by the beating of Haggards on the Rivers, as also by the appearance of the very bold Buzzard and Ring-tail.

Of Water-fowl there are two sorts; such as live of the water, and such as live on the water: the one taking their sustenance from the water without swimming thereon, but wading and diving for it with their long Legs: The other are Web-footed and swim, as the Swan, Goose, Mallard, &c.

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Of the Haunts of Fowl.

THe thing of greatest moment for the Fowler to understand, is the Haunts of Fowl. In order thereunto you are to understand, that all sorts of greater Fowl, viz. those who divide the foot, have their residence by the edge of Rivers that are shallow, Brooks, and Plashes of water: and these appear not in Flocks, but you shall see here one single, there a couple, and the like; which makes them difficult to be taken by Engine or Device; but they are the best flights for Hawks that can be imagined.

Likewise these Fowl delight in low and boggy places; and the more sedgie, marish and rotten such grounds are, the fitter they are for the haunting of these Fowl.

They love also the dry parts of drowned Fens, which are overgrown with tall and long Rushes, Reeds, and Sedges.

Lastly, they delight in half-drowned Moors, or the hollow vales of Downs, Heaths, or Plains, where there is shelter either of Hedges, Hills, Tufts of Bushes or Trees, where they may lurk obscurely.

Now the lesser Fowl, which are Web-footed, haunt continually drowned Fens, where they may have continually plenty of Water, and may swim undisturbed by man or beast: Their haunt is likewise in the main Streams of Rivers, where the Current is swiftest and least subject to freez; and the broader and deeper such Rivers are, the greater delight these Fowl take therein, the Wild-goose and Barnacle excepted, who abide no Waters above their sounding; for when they cannot reach the Ouze, they instantly remove thence, seeking out more shallow places. [Page] These two last named are infinitely delighted with green Winter-corn, and therefore you shall see them evermore where such Grain is sown, especially if the ends of the Lands have much water about them.

Likewise these smaller Fowl do very much frequent small Brooks, Rivers, Ponds, drowned Meadows, Pastures, Moors, Plashes, Meres, Loughs and Lakes, especially if well stored with Islands unfrequented, and well furnished with Shrubs, Bushes, Reeds, &c. and then they will breed there, and frequent such places both Summer and Winter.

The readiest way of taking great Fowl with NETS.

THe first thing you are to consider, is the making of your Nets, which must be of the best Packthread, with great and large Meshes, at least two Inches from point to point: for the larger the Meshes are, (so that the Fowl cannot creep through them) the better it is; for they more certainly intangle them.

Let not your Nets be above two fathom deep, and six in length, which is the greatest proportion that a man is able to overthrow. Verge your Net on each side with very strong Cord, and extend it at each end upon long Poles made for that purpose.

Having thus your Nets in readiness, let the Fowler observe the haunts of Fowl, that is to say, their Morning and Evening feedings, coming at least two hours before those seasons; then spreading his Net smooth and flat upon the ground, staking the two lower ends firm thereon, let the upper ends stand extended upon the long Cord, the farther end thereof being staked [Page] fast down to the Earth two or three fathom from the Net; and let the stake which staketh down the Cord stand in a direct and even line with the lower Verge of the Net, the distance still observed: then the other end of the Cord, which must be at least ten or twelve fathom long, the Fowler shall hold in his hand at the uttermost distance aforesaid, where he shall make some artificial shelter either of Grass, Sods, Earth, or such like matter, whereby he may lie out of the sight of the Fowl.

Observe to let the Net lie so ready for the Game, that upon the least pull it may rise from the Earth and fly over.

Strew over all your Net, as it lies upon the ground, some Grass, that you may hide it from the Fowl. It will not be amiss (but altogether requisite) to stake down near your Net a live Hern, or some other Fowl formerly taken, for a Stale. When you observe a competent number of Fowl come within the verge of your Net, then draw your Cord suddenly, and so cast the Net over them: Continue thus doing till the Sun be near an hour high, and no longer; for then their feeding is over for that time; and so do at Evening from about Sun-set till Twilight. By this means you may not only take great quantities of larger Wild-fowl, but also Plover, which takes his food as much from Land as Water.

How to take small Water-fowl with Nets.

LEt your Nets be made of the smallest and strongest packthread, and the Meshes nothing near so big as those for the greater Fowl, about two foot and a half or three foot deep; line these Nets on both sides with false Nets, every Mesh being about a foot and [Page] a half square each way, that as the Fowl striketh either through them or against them, so the smaller Net may pass through the great Meshes, and so streighten and entangle the Fowl.

These Nets you must pitch for the Evening-flight of Fowl before Sun-set, staking them down on each side of the River about half a foot within the water, the lower side of the Net being so plumb'd that it may sink so far and no farther: Let the upper side of the Net be placed slantwise, shoaling against the water, yet not touching the water by near two foot; and let the strings which support this upper side of the Net be fastned to small yielding Sticks prickt in the Bank, which as the Fowl strikes may give liberty to the Net to run and entangle them. Thus place several of these Nets over divers parts of the River, about twelvescore one from another, or as the River or Brook shall give leave; and be confident, if any Fowl come on the River that night, you shall have your share.

And that you may the sooner obtain your desire, take your Gun and go to all the Fens and Plashes that are a good distance from your Nets, and fire it three or four times; which will so affright the Fowl, that they will instantly post to the Rivers; then plant your Nets upon these Fens and Plashes.

In the Morning go first to the River and see what Fowl are there surprized; and having taken them up with your Nets, if you espy any Fowl on the River, discharge your Gun, which will make them fly to the Fens and Plashes, and then go and see what you have taken: Thus you shall be sure to be furnished with some, though there be never so few abroad.

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How to take all manner of small Birds with Bird-Lime.

IN cold weather, that is to say, in Frost or Snow, all sorts of small Birds do congregate in Flocks, as Larks, Chaffinches, Lennets, Gold-finches, Yellowhammers, Buntings, Sparrows, &c. all these but the Lark do perch on Trees or Bushes as well as feed on the ground: If you perceive they resort about your House or Fields adjacent, then use your Bird-lime that is well prepared, and not over old; order it after this manner: Take an Earthen dish and put the Bird-lime into it, and add thereunto some fresh Lard, or Capons-grease, putting an ounce of either to a quarter of a pound of Bird-lime: then setting it over the fire, let it melt gently together; but let it not boil by any means, for if you do, you will take away the strength of the Bird-lime, and so spoil it. Having thus prepared it, get a quantity of Wheat-ears, as many as you think you shall conveniently use, and cut the Straw about a foot long besides the Ears; then from the bottom of the Ears to the middle of the Straw lime it about six inches: the Lime must be warm when you lime the straw, that so it may run thin upon the straw, and therefore the less discernable, and consequently not suspected by the Birds.

Having thus got your Lim'd-straws in this manner ready, go into the field adjacent to your house, and carry a bag of Chaff and thresht Ears, and scatter these together twenty yards wide, (it is best in a Snow) then take the Lim'd-ears and stick them up and down with the Ears leaning, or at the end touching the ground; then retire from the place, and traverse the grounds all round about; the Birds hereupon being disturbed in their other haunts fly hither, and pecking at the ears of Corn, finding that they stick unto them, they straightways mount up [Page] from the Earth, and in their flight the Bird-limb'd straws lap under their Wings, and falling are not able to disengage themselves from the Straw, and so are certainly taken.

By the way take this caution; do not go and take up five or six you see entangled, for that may hinder you it may be from taking three or four dozen at one time. If they be Larks that fall where your Bird-lim'd Straws do lie, go not a near them till they spontaneously rise of themselves, and flying in great Flocks; I can assure you I have caught five dozen at one lift.

You may lay some nearer home to take Finches, Sparrows, Yellowhammers, &c. who resort near to Houses, and frequent Barn-doors, where you may easily take them after the same manner as aforesaid. The taking of Sparrows is a very great benefit to the Husbandman, for they are his and the Farmers principal Enemies, of all small Birds; insomuch as I dare assure them, that every dozen of Sparrows taken by them in the Winter, shall save them a quarter of Wheat before Harvest be ended. In the taking of them, you may stick the top of your House if thatcht; and though you never have the Birds, yet the destruction of them will be a great advantage. Before a Barn-door if you lay your Twigs, or Lim'd-straws, you may there take them with abundance of other small Birds. The Sparrow is excellent food, and a great restorer of decayed Nature. You may also take them at roost in the Eaves of Thatchthouses, by coming in the night with a Clap-net, and rubbing the Net against the hole where they are flying out, you clap the Net together, and forsake them: the darkest night with a Lanthorn and Candle is the chiefest time to take them.

Having performed your Morning Birding-recreation, go bait the same place where you were before, and bait it with fresh Chaff and Ears of Corn, and [Page] let them rest till next Morning; then take some fresh Wheat-ears again, and stick them as aforesaid: and when you bait in the Afternoon, take away all your Lim'd Ears, that so the Birds may feed boldly, and not be frighted or disturbed against next Morning.

How to take Great Fowl with LIME-TWIGS.

YOu must supply your self with good store of Rods, which are long, small, and straight-grown Twigs, being light and apt to play to and fro.

Lime the upper-part of these Twigs, holding the Bird-lime before the fire, so that it may melt, for the better besmearing them.

Having first well acquainted your self where these Fowl do frequent Morning and Evening, you must then observe before Sun-set for the Evening-flight, and before day for the Morning, that you plant your Limetwigs where these Fowl haunt, pinning down for a Stale one of the same Fowl alive (which you have formerly taken for that purpose) which you intend to catch with your Bird-lime. Round about the Stale (giving the Fowl liberty to flutter to and fro) prick your Twigs in rows a foot distant one from the other, till you have covered all the place so haunted, that there shall be no room left, but that they must certainly fall foul with the Lime-twigs.

Prick the Rods sloaping with their heads bending into the Wind about a foot or somewhat more above ground: If you please (and I think it the best way) you may cross-prick your Rods, that is, one point into the wind, and another against the wind; by which [Page] means you may take the Fowl which way soever they come.

Place also a Stale some distance from your Limetwigs, and fasten small strings to it, which upon the sight of any Fowl you must pull, then will your Stale flutter, which will allure them down.

If you see any taken, do not run instantly and take them up if you see any Fowl in the air; for by their fluttering others will be induced to swoop in among them. It will not be amiss to have a well-taught Spaniel with you for the retaking of such Fowl (as it is common) which will flutter away with the Limetwigs about them.

If you intend to use these Twigs for smaller Wildfowl, and such as frequent the water only, then must you fit them in length according to the depth of the River; and your Lime must be very strong Water-lime, such as no wet or frost can injure. Prick these Rods in the water, as you did the others on the Land, as much of the Rod as is limed being above water; and here and there among your Rods you must stake down a live Stale, as a Mallard, a Widgeon or Teal: and thus you may do in any shallow Plash or Fen.

You need not wait continually on your Rods, but come thrice a day, and see what is taken, viz. early in the Morning, at high Noon, and late in the Evening; but come not unattended with your Water-spaniel: for if you perceive any of your Rods missing, you may conclude some Fowl are fastned to them which are crept into some Hole, Bush, or Sedge by the River side, and then will your Dog be very necessary for the discovery.

Do not beat one Haunt too much, but when you find their numbers fail, remove and find out another, and in three weeks time your first will be as good as ever.

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Of the great and lesser SPRINGES.

HAving noted the Morning and Evening feeding of divided-footed-Fowl, observing the Furrows and Water-Tracts where they usually stalk and paddle to find Worms, Float-Grass-roots, and the like; you must mark where many Furrows meet in one, and break out as it were into one narrow passage, which so descending, afterwards divides it self into other parts and branches; then mark how every Furrow breaketh and cometh into this Center or little Pit, which is most paddled with the Fowl, or which is easiest for Fowl to wade in: This being done, take small and short Sticks, and prick them cross-wise athwart over all the other passages, one Stick within half an Inch of the other, making as it were a kind of Fence to guard every way but one which you would have the Fowl to pass: if they stand but somewhat more than a handful above the Water, such is the nature of the Fowl that they will not press over them, but stray about till that they find the open way.

Having thus hemmed in all ways but one, take a stiff Stick cut flat on the one side, and prick both ends down into the Water, and make the upper part of the flat side of the stick to touch the water, and no more: then make a Bow of small Hazel or Willow made in the fashion of a Pear, broad and round at one end, and narrow at the other; at least a foot long, and five or six Inches broad, and at the narrow end make a small nick: then take a good stiff-grown plant of Hazel, clean without knot, three or four Inches about at the bottom, and an Inch at the top, [Page] and having made the bottom-end sharp, at the top you must fasten a very strong Loop of about an hundred Horse-hairs plaited very fast together with strong Packthread, and made so smooth that it will run and slip at pleasure: Let the Loop be of the just quantity of the hoop, made Pear-wise as aforesaid: then hard by this Loop you must fasten a little broad thin Tricker within an Inch and half of the end of the Plant, which must be made equally sharp at both ends: thrust the bigger sharp end of the Plant into the ground close by the edge of the water, the smaller-end with the Hoop and the 'Tricker must be brought down to the first Bridge, and then the Hoop made Pear-wise being laid on the Bridge, one end of the Tricker must be set upon the nick of the Hoop, and the other end against a nick made on the small end of the Plant, which by the violence and bend of the Plant shall make them stick and hold together until the Hoop be moved. This done, lay the Swickle on the Hoop in such fashion as the Hoop is proportioned; then from each side of the Hoop prick little Sticks, making an impaled path to the Hoop; and as you go farther and farther from the Hoop or Springe, so make the way wider and wider, that the Fowl may enter a good way before it shall perceive the Fence. By this means the Fowl will be enticed to wade up to the Springe, which shall be no sooner toucht, but that part of the Bird so touching will be instantly ensnared: And thus according to the strength of the Plant you shall take any Fowl of what bigness soever.

The Springe for lesser Fowl, as Woodcock, Snipe, Plover, &c. is made after the fashion aforesaid, only differing in strength according unto the bigness of the Birds you intend to catch.

The main plant or Sweeper you may make of Willow, Osier, or any stick that will bend and return to its proper straightness.

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This device is for the Winter only, when much wet is on the ground, and not when the Furrows are dry. Now if the waters be frozen, you must make plashes; and the harder the Frost, the greater resort will there be of these smaller Fowl.

Of the FOWLING-PIECE and the STALKING-HORSE.

THat is ever esteemed the best Fowling-piece which hath the longest Barrel, being five foot and a half or six foot long, with an indifferent bore, under Harquebuss.

Provide the best sort of Powder as near as you can, and let it not be old, for keeping weakens it much, especially if it grow damp; therefore when you have occasion to use it, dry it well in a Fire-shovel, and sift it through a fine Searcher to take away that dust which hindreth the more forcible effects, and fouleth your piece.

Let your Shot be well sized, and of a moderate bigness; for if it be too great, then it scatters too much: if too small, it hath not weight nor strength sufficient to do execution on a large Fowl.

Shot being not to be had at all times, and in all places, suitable to your occasions and desires, I shall therefore here set down the true process of making all sorts and sizes under Mould-shot.

Take what quantity of Lead you please, and melt it down in an Iron Vessel, and as it melts keep it stirring with an Iron-Ladle, and clear it of all impurities whatsoever that may arise at the top by skimming them off. Then when the Lead begins to be of a [Page] greenish colour, strew on it Auripigmentum finely powdered, as much as will lie on a Shilling to 12 pound of Lead. Then stir them together, and the Auripigmentum will flame.

Your I adle ought to have a Notch on one side of the Brim for the more easie pouring out of the Lead, and the Ladle ought to remain in the melted Lead, that the heat may be agreeable to it, to prevent all inconveniencies which may happen through excess of heat or cold. Then try your Lead by droping it into water. If the drops prove round, then the temper of the heat is right; but if the Shot have Tails, then there is want both of heat and Auripigmentum.

Then take a Copper-plate about the size of a Trencher-plate, with an hollowness in the midst about three inches compass, with about forty holes bored according to the size of the Shot you intend to cast. The hollow bottom should be thin, but the thicker the brim the better, because it will longer retain the heat. Place it on an Iron frame over a Bucket of water, about four Inches from it, and spread burning Coals on the plate to keep the Lead melted upon it.

Then take up some Lead and pour it gently on the Coals on the plate, and it will force its way through the holes into the water, and form it self into Shot. Thus do till all your Lead be run through the holes of the plate: observing to keep your Coals alive, that the Lead may not cool, and so stop up the holes. Whilst you are casting your Shot, another person may catch some of the Shot with another Ladle, placed four or five inches (underneath the bottom of the plate) in the water, and by that means you may discern if there are any defects in your process, and rectifie them.

The chief business is to keep your Lead in a just degree of heat, that it be not so cold as to fill up the holes, nor so hot as to make the Shot crack. To remedy [Page] the coolness of your Lead and plate, you must blow your Coals; to remedy the beat, you must refrain working till it be cool enough, observing, that the cooler your Lead, the larger your Shot; the hotter, the smaller.

When you have cast your Shot, take them out of the water and dry them over the fire with a gentle heat, and be sure to keep them continually stirred that they melt not. When they are dry you are to separate the great Shot from the small, by the help of Sieves made on purpose, according to their several sizes. If you would have very large Shot, you may with a stick force the Lead to trickle out of your Ladle into the water without the plate.

If it stop on the plate, and yet the plate be not too cool, give but the plate a little knock, and it will run again. Take care that none of your Instruments be greasie. When you have separated your Shot, if any prove too large for your purpose, or any ways imperfect, 'tis only your pains lost, and it will serve again at your next operation.

In shooting, observe always to shoot with the wind, if possible, and not against it; and rather side-ways, or behind the Fowl, than full in their faces.

Next, observe to chuse the most convenient shelter you can find, as either Hedge, Bank, Tree, or any thing else which may abscond you from the view of the Fowl.

Be sure to have your Dog at your heels under good command, not daring to stir till you bid him, having first discharged your Piece: for some ill-taught Dogs will upon the snap of the Cock presently rush out, and spoil all the sport.

Now if you have not shelter enough, by reason of the nakedness of the Banks and want of Trees, you must creep upon your hands and knees under the Banks, [Page] and lying even flat upon your Belly, put the nose of your Piece over the Bank, and so take your level; for a Fowl is so fearful of man, that though an Hawk were soaring over her head, yet at the sight of a man she would betake her self to her wing, and run the risque of that danger.

But sometime it so happeneth that the Fowl are so shie, there is no getting a shoot at them without a Stalking-horse, which must be some old Jade trained up for that purpose, who will gently, and as you will have him, walk up and down in the water which way you please flodding and eating on the Grass that grows therein.

You must shelter your self and Gun behind his foreshoulder, bending your body down low by his side, and keeping his body still full between you and the Fowl: being within shot, take your level from before the forepart of the Horse, shooting as it were between the horses Neck and the water; which is much better than shooting under his Belly, being more secure, and less perceiveable.

Now to supply the want of a Stalking-horse, which will take up a great deal of time to instruct and make fit for this exercise, you may make one of any pieces of old Canyas, which you must shape into the form of an Horse, with the head bending downwards as if he grazed. You may stuff it with any light matter; and do not forget to paint it of the colour of an horse, of which the brown is the best; and in the midst let it be fix'd to a Staff with a sharp Iron at the end, to stick into the ground as you shall see occasion, standing fast whilst you take your level.

It must be made so portable, that you may bear it with ease in one hand, moving it so as it may seem to graze as you go. Let the stature of your artificial Stalking-horse be neither too low nor too high; for the [Page] one will not abscond your body, and the other will be apt to frighten the Fowl.

Instead of this Stalking-horse, you may fashion out of Canvas painted an Ox or Cow: and this change is necessary, when you have so beaten the Fowl with your Stalking-horse, that they begin to find your deceit, and will no longer endure it, (as it frequently falls out.) Then you may stalk with an Ox or Cow, till the Stalking-horse be forgotten, and by this means make your sport lasting and continual.

Some there are that stalk with Stags or Red-Deer form'd out of painted Canvas, with the natural Horns of Stags fixt thereon, and the colour so lively painted, that the Fowl cannot discern the fallacy; and these are very useful in low Fenny grounds, where any such Deer do usually feed; and are more familiar with the Fowl, and so feed nearer them than Ox, Horse, or Cow: by which means you shall come within a far nearer distance.

There are other dead Engines to stalk withal, as an artificial Tree, Shrub, or Bush, which may be made of small Wands, and with painted Canvas made into the shape of a Willow, Poplar, or such Trees as grow by Rivers and Water-sides; for these are the best.

If you stalk with a Shrub or Bush, let them not be so tall as your Tree, but much thicker; which you may make either of one entire Bush, or of divers Bushes interwoven one with another, either with small Withy-wands, Cord, or Pack-thread, that may not be discerned: and let not your Bush exceed the height of a man, but be thicker than four or five, with a Spike at the bottom to stick into the ground whilst you take your level.

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How to take all manner of Land fowl by day or night.

SInce the dissolution and spoil of Paradise, no man hath either seen, or can give the names of all Land-fowl whatever, there being such great variety, every Country producing some particular sorts which are unknown to other Nations.

To avoid prolixity, I shall rank them under two heads.

The first are such who are either fit for Food or Pleasure, either for eating or singing: for eating, Pigeons of all sorts. Rook, Pheasant, Partridge, Quails, Rail, Felfares, &c. and for eating or singing, the Blackbird, Throstle, Nightingale, Linnet, Lark, and Bullfinch.

Secondly, such as are for Pleasure onely, and they are all manner of birds of Prey, as Castrels, Ring-tails, Buzzards, &c.

The general way of taking these Land-fowl of several sorts together, is either by day or by night. If by day, it is done with the great Net, commonly called the Crow-net, and not at all differs in length, depth, bigness of Mesh, manner of laying, &c. from the Plovernet; onely it will not be amiss if the Cords be longer.

This Net you may lay before Barn-doors, or where Corn hath been winnowed, also in Stubble-fields, so concealing the Net that the Fowl may not discern the Snare. When you perceive a quantity within the Net scraping for food, and you lie concealed afar off, with your Cord in your hand suddenly pull the Net over upon them.

You may do well to take notice of their Morning [Page] and Evening Haunts, to worm and feed upon the Greenswarth; and here lay your Net, and it will prove as effectual as in other places, so that you observe to abscond your self in some Covert so as not to be descried: in the next place, pull not too hastily, but wait for a good number of Fowl within the Net, and then pull freely and quickly; for the least deliberation after the Net is raised, is the ruine of your design.

Thus much for Day-fowling with the Net: now if you will prosecute your sport by Night, you must do it according to the nature and manner of the Country, or situation or fashion of the ground, whether Woody, Mountainous, or Champain.

In plain and Champain Countries you must use the Low-bell, from the end of October until the end of March; and this method you must follow.

The day being shut in, the air mild without Moonshine, take a Low-bell, (which must have a deep and hollow sound, for if it be shrill it is stark naught) and with it a Net whose Mesh is twenty yards deep, and so broad, that it may cover five or six Lands or more, according to the company you have to carry it. With these Instruments go into any stubble Corn-field, but Wheat is the best. He that carries the Bell must go foremost, toling the Bell as he goes very mournfully, letting it but now and then knock on both sides: after him must follow the Net, born up at each corner and on each side by several persons; then another must carry some Iron or stony Vessel which may contain burning, but not blazing Coals, and at these you must light bundles of straw: or you may carry Links with you. And having pitcht your Nets where you think the Game lies, beat the ground and make a noise, and as the Fowl rise they will be entangled in the Net. Thus you may take good store of Partridge, Rails, Larks, Quails, &c.

Having so done, extinguish your Lights, and proceed [Page] laying your Net in some other place as beforementioned.

Here note, that the sound of the Low-bell makes the Birds lie close, so as they dare not stir whilst you are pitching the Net, for the sound thereof is dreadful to them; but the sight of the Fire much more terrible, which makes them instantly to fly up, and so they become entangled in the Net.

Furthermore, if you intend to have the full fruition of your sport, you must be very silent, and nothing must be heard but the sound of the Low-bell till the Net is placed and the Lights blazing; but as soon as they are extinguished a general silence must be again.

The Trammel is much like this Net for the Lowbell, and may be necessarily used on the same grounds; onely it ought to be longer, though not much broader.

When you come to a place fit for your purpose where Birds lodge on the Earth, you shall then spread your Trammel on the ground; and let the farthest end thereof, being plumb'd with Lead, lie loose on the ground; but let the foremost ends be born up by two men, and so trail the Net along, keeping the foremost ends a yard or more distance from the ground.

On each side of the Net carry Wisps of Straw lighted, or Links, and let some beat the ground with long Poles; and as the Birds rise under the Nets, take them. And thus you may continue doing as long as you please, to your great profit and pleasure.

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Of BAT-FOWLING.

BAT-FOWLING is the taking of all manner of Birds, great and small, by night, which roost in Bushes, Shrubs, Hawthorn-trees, &c.

The manner is: you must be very silent till your Lights are blazing, and you may either carry Nets or none: if none, you must then have long Poles with great bushy tops fixt to them; and having from a Cresset or vessel to carry fire in, lighted your Straw, or other blazing combustible matter, then must you beat those Bushes where you think Birds are at roost; which done, if there be any in those Bushes or Trees, you will instantly see them fly about the Flames: for it is their nature, through their amazedness at the strangeness of the Light, and extream darkness round about it, not to depart from it, but they will even scorch their Wings in the same, so that those who have the bushy Poles may beat them down as they please, and take them up. Thus you may continue your sport as long as it is very dark, and no longer.

Of the DAY-NET, and how to take Birds therewith.

THe Day-Net is generally used for the taking of Larks, Buntings, Merlins, Hobbies, or any Birds which play in the Air, and will stoop either to Stale, Prey, Gig, Glass, or the like.

The season for these Nets is from August to November: the time you must plant these Nets must be before [Page] Sun-rising. Where note, the milder the Air, the brighter the Sun, and the pleasanter the Morning is, the better will your sport be, and of longer continuance.

Let the place you elect for this purpose be plain and Champain, either on Barley-stubbles, green Lays, or level and flat Meadows; and these places must be remote from any Villages, but near adjacent to Cornfields.

The fashion of a Day-net is this: you must make them of fine Packthread, the Mesh small, and not above half an Inch square each way; let the length be about three fashom, the breadth one fathom and no more: the shape is like the Crow-net, and it must be verg'd about in the same manner with a strong small Cord, add the two ends extended upon two small long Poles suitable to the breadth of the Net, with four stakes, Tail-strings, and Drawing-lines, as afore-mentioned: only whereas that was but one single Net, here must be two of one length, breadth and fashion. These Nets must be laid opposite to each other, yet so close and even together, that when they are drawn and pulled over, the sides and edges may meet and touch one the other.

These Nets being staked down with strong Stakes very stiffly on their Lines, so as with any nimble twitch you may cast them to and fro at your pleasure; you shall then to the upper ends of the foremost staves fasten your Hand lines or drawing Cords, which must be at the least a dozen, a fathom long; and so extend them of such a reasonable streightness, as with little strength they may raise up the Nets and cast them over.

When your Nets are laid, some twenty or thirty paces, beyond them place your Stales, Decoys, or playing Wantons, upon some pearching Boughs, which will not only entice Birds of their own Feather to stoop, but [Page] but also Hawks and Birds of Prey to swoop into your Nets.

Remember to keep the first half dozen you take alive for Stales, and to that end have a Cage or Linnen-bag to put them in: The rest squeez in the hinder-part of the head, and so kill them. And thus do every day.

Of taking small Birds which use Hedges and Bushes with Lime-twigs.

THe great Lime-bush is best for this use, which you must make after this manner: Cut down the main Arm or chief Bough of any bushy Tree, whose branches or Twigs are long, thick, smooth and straight, without either pricks or knots; of which the Willow or Birch-tree are the best: when you have pickt it and trimm'd it from all superfluity, making the Twigs neat and clean; take then of the best Bird-lime, well mixed and wrought together with Goose-greace or Capon's-greace, which being warmed, lime every Twig therewith within four fingers of the bottom. The body, from whence the branches have their rise, must be untouch'd with Lime.

Be sure you do not dawb you Twigs with too much Lime, for that will give distaste to the Birds; yet let none want its proportion, or have any part left bare which ought to be toucht: for, as too much will deter them from coming, so too little will not hold them when they are there.

Having so done, place your Bush on some Quick-set or dead Hedge neer unto Towns-ends, back-yards, old houses, or the like; for these are the resort of small Birds in the Spring-time: in the Summer and Harvest in Groves, Bushes, White-thorn-trees, Quick-set-hedges [Page] neer Corn-fields, Fruit-trees, Flax and Hemp-lands; and in the winter about Houses, Hovels, Barns, Stacks, or those places where stand ricks of Corn, or scattered Chaff, &c.

As near as you can to any of these haunts plant your Lime-bush, and plant your self also at a convenient distance undiscovered, imitating with your mouth the several Notes of Birds, which you must learn by frequent practice, walking the Fields for that very purpose often, observing the variety of several birds sounds, especially such as they call one another by. I have known some so expert herein, that they could imitate the Notes of twenty several sorts of Birds at least, by which they have caught ten Birds to anothers one that was ignorant therein.

But if you cannot attain to it by your industry, you must then buy a Bird-call, of which there are several sorts, and easie to be framed, some of Wood, some of Horn, some of Cane, and the like.

Having first learned how to use this Call, you shall sit and call the Birds unto you; and as any of them light on your Bush, step not to them till you see them sufficiently entangled: Neither is it requisite to run for every single Bird, but let them alone till more come, for their fluttering is as good as a Stale to entice more.

This Exercise you may use from Sun-Rising till ten a clock in the Morning, and from one till almost Sun-set.

You may take these small Birds with Lime-twigs onely, without the Bush. When I was a boy, I have taken two or three hundred small Twigs about the bigness of Rushes, and about three Inches long, and have gone with them into a field where were Hempcocks; upon the tops of half a score, lying all round together, I have stuck my Twigs, and then have gone [Page] and beat that field, or the next to it, where I saw any Birds; and commonly in such fields there are infinite numbers of Linnets and Green-birds which are great lovers of Hemp-seed. I say, they fly in such vast flocks, I have caught at one fall of them upon the Cocks eight dozen at a time.

But to return, there is a pretty way of taking Birds with Lime-twigs, by placing near them a Stale or two made of living Night-baits, placing them aloft, that they may be visible to the Birds thereabouts; which will no sooner be perceived, but every Bird will come and gaze, wondering at the strangeness of the sight: then they having no other convenient lighting-place but where the Lime-twigs are, you may take what number you list of them.

But the Owl is a far better Stale than the Bat, being bigger, and more easily to be perceived; besides, he is never seen abroad, but he is followed and persecuted by all the birds near adjacent.

If you have not a living Bat or Owl, their skins will serve as well being stuffed, and will last you twenty years. There are some have used an Owl cut in Wood, and naturally painted, with wonderful success.

It is strange to me that this Bird above all others should be so persecuted by all Birds whatsoever, especially by the Goose; and therefore some arch Cracks in Lincoln-shire and other places where are great quantities of Geese, observing their tempers, have made great advantage of them; for by only throwing a live Owl among a flock of Geese, they got as many Quills as they knew what to do with; for the Geese endeavouring to beat the Owl with their wings, never left till they did beat the Quills out of their wings, and commonly the best, which are Seconds.

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How to make the best sort of Bird-lime, and how to use it.

TAke at Midsummer the bark of Holly, and pill it from the Tree, so much as will fill a reasonable big Vessel; then put to it running Water, and set it over the fire, and boil it till the grey and white bark rise from the green, which will take up sixteen hours in the boiling: then take it from the fire, and separate the barks after the water is very well drain'd away: then take all the green bark, and lay it on the ground in a close place and moist floor, and cover it over with all manner of green Weeds, as Hemlock, Docks, Thistles, and the like; thus let it lie ten or twelve days, in which time it will rot, and turn to a filthy slimy matter. Then take it and put it into a Mortar, and there beat it till it become universally thick and tough, without the discerning of any part of the bark or other substance; then take it out of the Mortar, and carry it to a running Stream, and there wash it exceedingly, not leaving any more or foulness within it; then put it up in a very close Earthen pot, and let it stand and purge for divers days together, scumming it as often as any foulness arises for four or five days: when you perceive no more Scum, you shall then take it out of that Pot, and put it into another clean Earthen Vessel, cover it close, and keep it for your use.

When you are about to use your Lime, take what quantity you think fit and put it into a Pipkin, adding thereto a third part of Goose-greace or Capons-greace finely clarified, and set them over a gentle fire, and there let them melt together, and stir them continually till they are well incorporated: then take it from the fire, and stir it till it be cold.

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When your Lime is cold, take your Rods and warm them a little over the fire; then take your Lime and wind it about the tops of your Rods, then draw your Rods a sunder one from the other, and close them again, continually plying and working them together, till by smearing one upon another, you have equally bestowed on each Rod a sufficient proportion of Lime.

If you lime any Strings, do it when the Lime is very hot and at the thinnest, besmearing the Strings on all sides, by folding them together and unfolding them again.

If you lime Straws, it must be done likewise when the Lime is very hot, doing a great quantity together, as many as you can well grasp in your hand, tossing and working them before the fire till they are all besmear'd, every Straw having his due proportion of Lime: having so done, put them up in cases of Leather till you have occasion to use them.

Now to prevent the freezing of your Lime either as it is on Twigs, Bushes, or Straws, you must adde a quarter as much of the Oyl called Petroleum as of your Capons-grease, mix them well together, and then work it on your Rods, &c. and so it will ever keep supple, tough, and gentle, and will not be prejudiced should it freeze never so hard.

The best and most Experienced way of making Water. Bird-lime.

BUy what quantity you think fit of the strongest Bird-lime you can procure, and wash it as long in a clear Spring-water till you find it very pliable, and the hardness thereof removed; then beat out the water extraordinary well, till you cannot perceive a drop to appear, then dry it well; after this, put it into a Pot made of Earth, and mingle therewith Capons-grease [Page] unsalted, so much as will make it run; then adde thereto two spoonfuls of strong Vinegar, a spoonful of the best Sallet-Oyl, and a small quantity of Venice-Turpentine: This is the allowance of these Ingredients, which must be added to every pound of strong Bird-lime, as aforesaid. Having thus mingled them, boil them all gently together over a small fire, stirring it continually; then take it from the fire and let it cool: When at any time you have occasion to use it, warm it, and then anoint your Twigs or Straws, or any other small things, and no Water will take away the strength thereof. This sort of Bird-lime is the best, especially for Snipes and Felfares.

In what manner a man may take Snipes with this Bird-lime:

TAke what number you shall think most expedient for your purpose, of Birch-twigs, and lime fifty or sixty of them very well together. After this, go and seek out those places where Snipes do usually frequent, which you may know by their Dung.

In very hard frosty or snowy Weather, where the Water lies open, they will lie very thick: Having observed the place where they most feed, set two hundred of your Twigs, more or less, as you please, at a yard distance one from the other, and let them stand sloaping some one way and some another; then retire a convenient distance from the place, and you shall find there shall not one Snipe in ten miss your Twigs, by reason they spread their Wings, and fetch a round close to the ground before they light. When you see any taken, stir not at first, for he will feed with the Twigs under his Wings; and as others come over the place, he will be a means to entice them down to [Page] him. When you see the Coast clear, and but few that are not taken, you may then take up your Birds fastning one or two of them, that the other flying over, may light at the same place. If there be any other open place near to that where your Twigs are planted, you must beat them up: The reason why they delight to haunt open places, and where Springs do gently run, is because they cannot feed, by reason of their Bills, in places that are hard and stony; and about these Plashes, in snowy Weather, they very much resort.

The manner of taking Felfares by Water-Bird-lime.

ABout Michaelmas, or when the cold Weather begins to come in, take your Gun and kill some Felfares; then take a couple of them, or one may serve, and fasten them to the top of a Tree, in such manner that they may seem to be alive: Having so done, prepare two or three hundred Twigs, take a great Birchen-bough, and therein place your Twigs, having first cut off all the small Twigs; then set a Felfare upon the top of the bough, making of him fast, and let this bough be planted where the Felfares do resort in a Morning to feed; for they keep a constant place to feed in, till there is no more food left. By this means others flying but neer, will quickly espie the topbird, and fall in whole flocks to him. I have seen at one fall three dozen taken.

How to take Pigeons with Lime-twigs.

PIgeons are great devourers and destroyers of Corn; wherefore when you find any ground much frequented [Page] by them, get a couple of Pigeons, either dead or alive; if dead, put them in such a stiff posture as if they were living and feeding; then at Sun-rising take a quantity of Twigs, as many as you think fit, let them be small, (but I judge Wheaten-straws are better for this purpose) and lay them up and down where your Pigeons are placed, and you shall find such sport at every fall that is made, that you may quickly be rid of them without offending the Statute: If there come good flights, you may easily take four or five dozen of them in a morning.

How to take Mag-pies, Crows, and Gleads with Lime-twigs.

WHen you have found any Carrion on which Crows, Pies, Kites, &c. are preying upon, over night set your Lime-twigs every where about the Carrion; but let them be small, and not set too thick; if otherwise, being subtile Birds, they will suspect some danger or mischief designed against them. When you perceive one to be fast, advance not to him presently; for most commonly when they are surely caught, they are not sensible thereof.

You may take them another way, and that is by joyning to a Packthread several Nooses of Hair up and down the Packthread, and peg it down about a yard from the Carrion: for many times when they have gotten a piece of Flesh, they will be apt to run away to feed by themselves; and if your Nooses be thick, it is two to one but some of the Nooses catch him by the Legs.

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How to take Rooks when they pull up the Corn by the Roots.

TAke some thick Brown-paper, and divide a sheet into eight parts, and make them up like Sugarloaves; then lime the inside of the Paper a very little; (let them be limed three or four days before you set them) then put some Corn in them, and lay threescore or more of them up and down the ground; lay them as near as you can under some clod of Earth, and early in the Morning before they come to feed; and then stand at a distance, and you will see most excellent sport; for as soon as Rooks, Crows, or Pigeons come to peck out any of the Corn, it will hang upon his head, and he will immediately fly bolt upright so high, that he shall soar almost out of sight; and when he is spent, come tumbling down as if he had been shot in the Air. You may take them at Ploughing-time when the Rooks and Crows follow the Plough; but then you must put in Worms and Maggots of the largest size.

How to take Birds with BAITS, either Land or Water-fowl.

IF you have a desire to take House-doves, Stock-doves, Rooks, Coughs, or any other-like Birds, then take Wheat, Barley, Fetches, Tares, or other Grain, and boil them very well with good store of Nux vomica in ordinary running water: when they are almost boil'd, dry and ready to burst, take them off the fire, and set them by till they be throughly cold. Having so done, scatter this Grain in the Haunts of those Birds you [...] [Page] [Page] [...] [Page] [Page] [...] [Page] [Page] [Page] have a mind to take; and as soon as they have tasted hereof, they will fall down into a dead swound, and shall not be able to recover themselves in a good while.

And as you take these great Land-fowl with this drunken device, so you may take the middle and smaller sort of Birds, if you observe to boil with what food they delight in, a quantity of this Nux vomica.

Some, instead of Nux vomica, use the Lees of Wine, the sharper and quicker they are, the better, boiling their Grains in these Lees, also Seeds or any other food, and strewing them in the Haunts of those Birds you would surprize. These do as effectually as Nux vomica; and it's the cleanlier and neater way, there being not that poysonous quality in them.

You may chuse whether you will boil your Grain or Seed in the aforesaid Lees; for they will be every whit as effectual if onely steeped a considerable while therein, giving them leave to drink in the Lees till they are ready to burst before you use them.

Others, having neither Nux vomica, nor Wine-lees, take the Juice of Hemlock, and steep their Grains therein, adding thereto some Henbane-seed or Poppy-seed, causing them to be infused therein four or five days; then draining the Grain or Seed from the Liquor, strew them as aforesaid. The Birds having tasted hereof, are immediately taken with a dizziness, which will continue some hours, so that they cannot flie; but they will recover again, if you kill them not. If you intend them for food, let them be first recovered.

Thus much for the Land; now let us speak of the Water-fowl.

The ready way by Bait to take such Fowl as receive part of their food by land, and part by water, as Wildgeese, Barnacle, Grey-plover, Mallard, Curlew, Shoveler, Bitter, Bustard, with many more; I say, the best way my experience hath found out is, to take Bellengeleaves, [Page] Roots and all, and having cleansed them very well, put them into a Vessel of clear running Water, and there let them lie in steep twenty four hours; then never shift them from the Water, but boil them together till the Water be almost consumed: then take it off, and set it a cooling. Then take a quantity hereof, and go to the Haunts of any of the aforesaid Fowl, and there spread of this Bait in sundry and divers places; and those that shall taste hereof will be taken with the like drunken dizziness as the former. To make this Confection the more effectual, it will be requisite to adde a quantity of Brimstone thereunto in its boiling.

How to recover Fowl thus entranced.

If you would restore any of these entranced Fowl to their former health, take a little quantity of Sallet-oyl, according to the strength and bigness of the Fowl, and drop it down the Throat of the Fowl; then chafe the head with a little strong White-wine-Vinegar, and the Fowl will presently recover, and be as well as ever.

And thus much for taking Fowl of all sorts by Baits.

A most excellent and approved way how to take the HERN.

A Hern is as great a devourer of Fish as any is; nay some dare affirm, ten times as much as an Otter, and shall do more mischief in one week than an Otter shall do in three months: for I have been told by one that hath seen a Hern that hath been shot at a Pond, to have had seventeen Carps at once in his Belly, which he will digest in six or seven hours, and then betake [Page] himself to fishing again. I have been informed by another, that he saw a Carp taken out of a Hern's Belly which was nine Inches and an half long.

Several Gentlemen that have kept Herns tame, have put Fish in a Tub, and tried the Hern how many small Roaches and Dace he would eat in a day, and they have found him to eat about fifty in a day, one day with another.

One Hern that haunts a Pond, in a Twelvemonths time, shall destroy a thousand Store-Carps; and when Gentlemen sue their Ponds, they think their Neighbours have robbed them, not in the least considering an Hern is able to devour them in half a years time, if he put in half as many more.

Now since this ravenous Fowl is so destructive to Ponds and Fish of the River, it will be very necessary to find out a way to destroy that, that destroys so many; which may be done in this manner.

Having found out his haunt, get three or four small Roaches or Dace; and have a strong Hook with Wyre to it, draw the Wyre just within the skin of the said Fish, beginning without side of the Gills, running of it to the Tail, and then the Fish will live five or six days. Now if the Fish be dead, the Hern will not meddle with him. Let not your Hook bee too rank; then having a strong Line with Silk and Wyre, about two yards and a half long, (if you twist not Wyre with your Silk, the sharpness of his Bill will bite it in two immediately) and tye a round Stone about a pound-weight to the Line, and lay three or four Hooks, and in two or three nights you shall not fail to have him if he comes to your Pond. Lay not your Hooks in the water so deep that the Hern cannot wade unto them. Colour your Line of a dark green, for an Hern is a subtile Bird. There are several other Fowl devourers of Fish, as Kings-fisher, More-hens, Balcoots, Cormorant, [Page] &c. but none like the Hern for Ponds and small Rivers.

How to take PHEASANTS several ways.

THe taking of Pheasants is to be performed three several ways, by Nets, by Lime-bush, or else by other particular Engines, which shall be discours'd of hereafter.

The taking of Pheasants with Nets, is done either generally, or particularly: generally, when the whole Eye of Pheasants is taken, that is the old Cock and old Hen with all their Powts, as they run together in the obscure Woods; or particularly, when you take none but the old Pheasants, or the young, being of an age fit to couple or pair.

For the greater facility of taking Pheasants, you must first understand their Haunts, which are never in open Fields, but in thick young Copses well grown, and not in old high Woods.

Having thus found out their Coverts, which must be solitary and untraced by Men or Cattel, the next thing will be how to find out the Eye or Brood of Pheasants.

The first way, is by going into these young Copses, and carefully viewing the same, searching every where; and by that means at last finding where they run together, as Chickens after a Hen. Or, secondly, you must rise early in a Morning, or come late in the Evening; and observe how and when the old Cock and Hen call their young ones to them, and how the young ones answer back unto them again; and so from that [Page] sound direct your Path as near as you can to the place where they are, lying there down so close you may not be discerned; by which means you will know where they meet, and how accordingly you may pitch your Nets.

But the most certain way of finding them out, is to have a natural Pheasant-call, which you must learn how to use, understanding all their Notes, and how to apply them: For they have several Notes, and all different; one to cluck them together when the Hen would brood them, another to chide them when they straggle too far, a third to call them to meat when she hath found it, a fourth to make them look out for food themselves, and a fifth to call them about her to sport withal. You must use your Call in the morning early, at which time they straggle abroad to find Provender; or else in the Evening just about Sun-setting, which is their time likewise for feeding.

Now although these are the best times to use your Call, yet you may call them at any other time of the day, onely altering your Note. Just at, or before Sun-rising, your Note must be to call them to feed, and so at Sun-set: but in the Forenoon and Afternoon your Notes must be to cluck them together to brood, or to chide them for straggling, or to give them notice of some approaching danger.

Knowing your Notes, and how to apply them, with the places where Pheasants haunt, which you shall know by the strength of the under-growth, obscureness, darkness, and solitariness of the place, you must then lodge your self as close as possible, and then call at first very softly, lest the Pheasants being lodg'd very near you, should be affrighted at a loud Note; but if nothing reply, raise your Note higher and higher, till you extend it to the utmost compass: and if there be a Pheasant within hearing, she will answer in a Note as loud as your [Page] own, provided it be not untunable, for that will spoil all.

As soon as you hear this answer, if it be from afar, and from one single Fowl, creep nearer and nearer unto it, still calling, but not so loud; and as you approach nearer to it, so will the Pheasant to you; and as you alter your Note, so will she: and in all points you must endeavour to imitate her, and in fine you will get sight of her, either on the Ground or Pearch: Then cease your calling, and spread your Net between the Pheasant and your self, in the most convenient place you can find, with all secrecy and silence, making one end of the Net fast to the ground, and holding the other end by a long Line in your hand; by which, when any thing straineth it, you may pull the Net close together: which done, call again, and as soon as you perceive the Pheasant come underneath your Net, then rise up and shew your self, that by giving the Pheasant an affright, he may offer to mount, and so be entangled within the Net.

Now if it so fall out that you hear many answers, and from divers corners of the Wood, then stir not at all, but keep your place; and as you hear them by their sounds to come nearer and nearer unto you, so shall you in the mean time prepare your Nets ready, and spread them conveniently about you, one pair of Nets on the one side, and another on the other side; then lie close, and apply your self to the Call till such time as you have allured them under your Nets; then stand up and shew your self, which will affright them and make them mount, whereby they will be entangled.

The fashion of Pheasant-Nets.

You must make these Nets of double-twined brown Thread dyed blue or green; let the Mesh be reasonably [Page] large and square, almost an inch between Knot and Knot; let the length of it be about three fathom, and the breadth about seven foot, and verge it on each side, with strong small Cord, and let the ends be also so, that it may lie compass-wise and hollow.

Some make these Nets of a much larger size; but then they are too cumbersome, and hardly to be ruled with one hand: but the others are readier to pitch, and better to take, also more nimble for any purpose you shall employ them to.

Of Driving of Pheasant-powts.

The driving and taking young Pheasants in Nets is done after this manner. Having either by your eye or Call found out an Eye of Pheasants, you must then (taking the wind with you, for they will naturally run down the wind) place your Nets cross the little Pads and ways which you see they have made, (for they will make little Paths like Sheep-tracks) and as near as you can, come to some special Haunts of theirs, which you shall know by the bareness of the ground, Mutings, and loose Feathers which you shall find there: and these Nets must be placed hollow, loose, and circularwise, the nether part thereof being fastened to the ground, and the upper side lying hollow, loose, and bending, so that when any thing rusheth into it, it may fall and entangle it: which done, you must go before where you found the Haunt, and there with your Call (if you find the Eye is scattered and separated one from the other) you must call them together.

Then take your Instrument called a Driver, which is made of strong white Wands or Osiers set fast in a handle, and in two or three places twisted about and bound with other Wands, bearing the shape of those [Page] things Cloath-dressers usually dress their Cloath withal: I say, with this Driver you must make a gentle noise, raking upon the Boughs and Bushes round about you; which as soon as Powts do hear, they will instantly run from it a little way, and then stand and listen, keeping all close together: then give another rake, at which they will run again as before: And by thus raking, you will drive them like so many Sheep before you which way or whither you please, and consequently at last into your Nets.

In using your Driver there are two things to be observed. The first is Secrecy, in concealing your self from the sight of the Pheasants; for if they chance to see you, they will instantly hide themselves in Holes and bottoms of Bushes, and will not stir from thence by any means whatever, as long as any day endureth.

The other thing to be observed, is Time and Leisure in the work; for there is nothing obstructs this Pastime more than too much haste: for they are very fearful Creatures, and are soon startled; and when once alarm'd, their fears will not suffer them to argue or dispute with the affrighting object; but the very first apprehension is sufficient to make them all fly at an instant, without staying to behold what they are so much afraid of.

Of taking Pheasants with a Lime-bush.

Having observed their Haunts as aforesaid, take a Bush, or single Rods, and trim them with the best and strongest Lime that can be got: let your Rods be twelve inches; your Lime-bush must not contain above eight Twigs, being the Top-branch of some Willow-tree, with an indifferent long Handle, made sharp [Page] either to stick into the ground, or into Shrubs and Bushes. You may plant your Bush near the branch of some little Tree which the Pheasant usually pearcheth on.

When you have placed your Bush or Rods, take out your Call, but remove not from your place, lying close without discovery. If your Call be good, and you have skill to use it, you will quickly have all the Pheasants within hearing about you; and if one happen to be entangled, she will go near to entangle all the rest, either by her extraordinary fluttering, or their own amazement and confusion. And as they are taken by the Rods on the ground, so you will surprize them with your Bushes; for being scared from below, they will mount to the Pearch or Bushes, to see what becomes of their fellows, and be there taken themselves.

Here note, that it is very requisite to count all your Rods, and when you have gathered up your Pheasants, see what Rods you have missing, and then conclude from the miss of them, that some Pheasants are run with them into the Bushes; and therefore it will be necessary to have a Spaniel which will fetch and carry, and one that will not break nor bruise either Flesh or Feather.

The Seasons for the use of Nets or Lime.

The Lime is onely for the Winter-season, beginning from November, when the Trees have shed their Leaves, (and then Lime-bushes and Branches of Trees are alike naked and of the same complexion) and ending at May, at which time the Trees begin to be furnished with Leaves.

The true use of the Nets is from the beginning of May till the latter end of October.

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So that there is no time of the year but their Breeding-time, which may not be exercised in this pleasure; whence what profit may arise, I shall leave to the judgment of those who keep good houses, and such as have good Stomacks.

How to take PARTRIDGES several ways, either by Net, Engine, Driving, or Setting.

PArtridges are naturally cowardly, fearful, simple, and foolish, and therefore most easily to be deceived or beguiled with any Train, Bait, Engine, or other Device whatever, whether by Enticement, Call, or Stale.

It will he necessary in the first place to consider their Haunts, which are not (like the Pheasants) certain, but various; any covert will serve their turn, and sometimes none at all.

The places they most delight in are the Corn-fields, especially whilst the Corn grows; for under that covert they shelter, ingender, and breed. Neither are these places unfrequented by them when the Corn is cut down, by reason of the Grain they find therein, especially in Wheat-stubble; and the height thereof they delight in, being to them as a covert or a shelter. Now when the Wheat-stubble is much trodden by Men or Beasts, then they betake themselves to the Barley-stubble, provided it be fresh and untrodden; and they will in the Furrows amongst the Clots, Brambles, and long Grass, hide both themselves and Covies, which are sometimes twenty in [Page] number, sometimes five and twenty: nay, I have heard of thirty in a Covie.

Now after the Winter-season is come, and that these Stubble-fields are plough'd up, or over-soiled with Cattle, then do these Partridges resort into the up-land Meadows, and do lodge in the dead Grass or Fog under Hedges, amongst Mole-hills, or under the Roots of Trees: Sometimes they resort to Copses and Underwoods, especially if any Corn-fields are near adjacent, or where grows Broom, Brakes, Fern, or any Covert whatsoever.

In the Harvest-time, when every Field is full of men and Cattle, then you shall find them in the day-time in the Fallow-fields which are next adjoyning to the Corn-fields, where they lie lurking till the Evening, and then they feed among the Shocks or Sheaves of Corn; and so they do likewise early in the Morning.

When you know their Haunts according to the scituation of the Country and season of the year, your next care must be to find them out in their Haunts; which is done several ways. Some do it by the Eye onely; and this Art can never be taught, but learned by frequent Experience, distinguishing thereby the colour of the Partridge from that of the Earth, and how and in what manner they lodge and couch together: for which purpose you may come near enough to them, for they are a very lazy Bird, and so unwilling to take the Wing, that you may even set your foot upon them before they will stir, provided you do not stand and gaze on them, but be in continual motion; otherwise they will spring up and be gone.

There is another way to discover them, and that is by going to their Haunts very early in the Morning, or at the close of the Evening, which is called the Jucking-time, and there listening for the calling of the [Page] Cock-Partridge, which will be very loud and earnest; and after some few calls the Hen will answer, and by this means they meet together; which you shall know by their rejoycing and chattering one with another: upon the hearing of which, take your range about them, drawing nearer and nearer to the place you heard them juck in; then cast your eye towards the Furrows of the Lands, and there you will soon find where the Covie lies, and so take them as your fancy shall lead you.

The best, safest, and easiest way for finding of Partridges is by the Call, having first learn'd the true and natural Notes of the Partridge, knowing how to tune every Note in its proper Key, applying them to their due times and seasons.

Being perfect herein, either Mornings or Evenings (all other times being improper) go to their Haunts, and having convey'd your self into some secret place where you may see and not be seen, listen a while if you can hear the Partridges call; if you do, answer them again in the same Note, and as they change or double their Notes, so must you in like manner: thus continue doing till they draw nearer and nearer unto you. Having them in your view, lay your self on your back, and lie as if you were dead without motion, by which means you may count their whole number.

Having attained to the knowledge of discovering them where they lie, the next thing will be a ready way how to catch them.

Of taking Partridges with Nets.

The Nets wherewith you ensnare Partridges must be every way like your Pheasant-nets, both for length and breadth; onely the Mesh must be smaller, being made of the same Thread, and dyed of the same colour.

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Having found out the Covie, draw forth your Nets, and taking a large circumference, walk a good round pace with a careless eye, rather from than towards the Partridges, till you have trimmed your Nets, and made them ready for the purpose: which done, you must draw in your circumference less and less, till you come within the length of your Net: then pricking down a a Stick about three foot in length, fasten one end of the Line of your Net, and make it fast in the Earth as you walk about; (for you must make no stop nor stay;) then, letting the Net slip out of your hands, spread it open as you go, and so carry and lay it all over the Partridges.

But if they should lie straggling, so that you cannot cover them all with one Net, then you must draw forth another, and do with that as you did with the former; doing so with a third, if occasion require: having so done, rush in upon them, who affrighted, will flie up, and so be entangled in the Nets.

How to take Partridges with Bird-lime.

Take of the fairest and largest wheat-straws you can get, and cut them off between Knot and Knot, and lime them with the strongest Lime. Then go to the Haunts of Partridges, and call: if you are answered, then prick at some distance from you your limed Straws in many cross rows and ranks cross the Lands and Furrows, taking in two or three Lands at least: then lie close and call again, not ceasing till you have drawn them towards you, so that they be intercepted by the way by your limed Straws, which they shall no sooner touch, but they will be ensnared; and by reason they all run together like a brood of Chickens, they will so besmear and daub one another, that very few of them will escape.

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This way of taking Partridges is onely to be used in Stubble-fields from August till Christmas. But if you will take them in Woods, Pastures, or Meadows, then you must lime Rods, as was afore expressed for the Pheasant, and stick them in the ground after the same manner.

How to drive Partridges.

The Driving of Partridges is more delightful than any other way of taking them: The manner of it is thus.

Make an Engine in the form and fashion of a Horse, cut out of Canvas, and stuff it with Straw, or such light matter: with this artificial Horse and your Nets you must go to the Haunts of Partridges, and having found out the Covie, and pitcht your Nets below, you must go above, and taking the advantage of the Wind, you must drive downward: Let your Nets be pitcht slope-wise and hovering. Then, having your Face covered with something that is green, or of a dark blue, you must, putting the Engine before you, stalk towards the Partridges with a slow pace, raising them on their Feet, but not their Wings, and then will they run naturally before you.

If they chance to run a by-way, or contrary to your purpose, then cross them with your Engine, and by so facing them, they will run into that track you would have them: Thus by a gentle slow pace you may make them run and go which way you will, and at last drive them into your Net, and so dispose of them at your pleasure.

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How to take Partridges with a Setting-dog.

There is no Art of taking Partridges so excellent and pleasant as by the help of a Setting-dog: wherefore, before we proceed to the Sport, we shall give you an account what this Setting-dog is.

You are to understand then, that a Setting-dog is a certain lusty Land-spaniel, taught by nature to hunt the Partridge more than any chace whatever, running the fields over with such alacrity and nimbleness, as if there was no limit to his fury and desire, and yet by art under such excellent command, that in the very height of his career by a Hem or sound of his Master's voice he shall stand, gaze about him, look in his Masters face, and observe his directions, whether to proceed, stand still, or retire: nay, when he is even just upon his Prey, that he may even take it up in his mouth, yet his obedience is so framed by Art, that presently he shall either stand still, or fall down flat on his belly, without daring either to make any noise or motion till his Master come to him, and then he will proceed in all things to follow his directions.

Having a Dog thus qualified by Art and Nature, take him with you where Partridges do haunt, there cast off your Dog, and by some word of encouragement which he is acquainted with, engage him to range, but never too far from you; and see that he beat his ground justly and even, without casting about, or flying now here now there, which the mettle of some will do, if not corrected and reproved. And therefore when you perceive this fault, you must presently call him in with a Hem, and so check him that he dare not do the like again for that day; so will he range afterwards with more tem perance, ever and anon looking in his Master's [Page] face, as if he would gather from thence whether he did well or ill.

If in your Dog's ranging you perceive him to stop on the sudden, or stand still, you must then make in to him, (for without doubt he hath set the Partridge) and as soon as you come to him, command him to go nearer: but if he goes not, but either lies still or stands shaking of his Tail, as who would say, Here they are under my nose, and withal now and then looks back; then cease from urging him further, and take your circumference, walking fast with a careless eye, looking straight before the nose of the Dog, and thereby see how the Covy lie, whether close or straggling.

Then commanding the Dog to lie still, draw forth your Net, and prick one end to the ground, and spread your Net all open, and so cover as many of the Partridges as you can; which done, make in with a noise, and spring up the Partridges; which shall no sooner rise, but they will be entangled in the Net. And if you shall let go the old Cock and Hen, it will not onely be an act like a Gentleman, but a means to increase your Pastime.

How to take RAILS, QUAILS, MOREPOOTS, &c.

FRom what is contain'd in the foregoing Chapters, you may collect a method how to take other Fowl, as Rails, Quails, Morepoots, &c. all which are very good flights for Hawks.

Their haunts are much alike with those of the Partridge; onely the Quail loves most the Wheat-fields, [Page] the Morepoot most the Heath and Forest-grounds, and the Rails love the long high Grass where they may lie obscure.

The way of finding them is like that of the Partridge, by the Eye, the Ear, and Haunt: but the chief way of all to find them out is the Call or Pipe, to which they listen with such earnestness, that you can no sooner imitate their Notes, but they will answer them, and will pursue the Call with such greediness, that they will play and skip about you, nay run over you, especially the Quail.

The notes of the Male and Female differ very much, and therefore you must have them both at your command; and when you hear the Male call, you must answer in the Females note; and when the Female calls, you must answer in the Males note: and thus you will not fall to have them both come to you, who will gaze and listen till the Net is cast over them.

The way of taking these Birds is the same with that of the Partridge, and they may be taken with Nets or Lime, either Bush or Rod, or Engine, which you must stalk with; or by the Setting-dog, which I shall treat of in the next Chapter.

How to elect and train a SETTING-DOG from a Whelp till he come to perfection.

THe Dog which you elect for Setting must have a perfect and good scent, and be naturally addicted to the hunting of Feathers. And this Dog may be either Land-spaniel, Water-spaniel, or Mungrel of them both; either the Shallow-flewed Hound, Tumbler, [Page] Lurcher, or small bastard Mastiff. But there is none better than the Land-spaniel, being of a good and nimble size, rather small than gross, and of a courageous mettle; which though you cannot discern being young, yet you may very well know from a right breed, which have been known to be strong, lusty and nimble Rangers, of active Feet, wanton Tails, and busie Nostrils; whose Tail was without weariness, their Search without changeableness, and whom no delight did transport beyond fear or obedience.

When you have made choice of your Dog, begin to instruct him about four months old, or six months at the uttermost.

The first thing that you shall teach your Dog, is to make him loving and familiar with you, knowing, you from any other person, and following you where-ever you go. To effect this the better, let him receive his food as near as you can from no other hand but your own; and when you correct him to keep him in awe, do it rather with words than blows.

When you have have so instructed your Dog that he will follow none but your self, and can distinguish your frown from your smile, and smooth words from rough, you must then teach him to couch and lie down close to the ground; first, by laying him often on the ground, and crying, Lie close. When he hath done any thing to your mind and pleasure, you must then reward him with a piece of Bread: if otherwise, chastise him with words, but few blows.

After this, you must teach him to come creeping unto you with his Belly and Head close upon the ground, as far or as little a way as you shall think fit: and this you may do by saying, Come nearer, come nearer, or the like; and at first, till he understand your meaning, by shewing him a piece of Bread or some other [Page] food to entice him to you. And this observe in his creeping to you, if he offer to raise his Body or Head, you must not onely thrust the rising-part down, but threaten him with your angry voice; which if he seem to slight, then add a sharp jerk or two with a Whipcord-lash.

You must often renew his Lessons till he be very perfect, still encouraging him when he does well.

If you walk abroad with him, and he take a fancy to range, even when he is most busie speak to him, and in the height of his pastime make him fall upon his Belly and lie close, and after that make him come creeping to you.

After this teach him to lead in a String or Line, and to follow you close at your heels without trouble or straining of his Collar.

By that time he hath learned these things aforesaid, I conceive the Dog may be a twelvemonth old; at which time the season of the year being fit, take him into the field and permit him to range, but still in obedience to your command. But if through wantonness he chance to babble or open without cause, you must then correct him sharply, either with a Whipcord-lash, or biting him hard at the Roots of his Ears.

Having brought him to a good temper and just obedience, then, as soon as you see him come upon the Haunt of any Partridge, (which you shall know by his greater eagerness in hunting, as also by a kind of whimpering and whining in his voice, being very desirous to open, but not daring) you shall speak to him, bidding him take heed, or the like: but if notwithstanding he either rush in and spring the Partridge, or opens, and so the Partridge escapeth, you must then correct him severely, and cast him off again, and let him hunt in some haunt where you know a Covy lies, [Page] and see whether he hath mended his fault: And if you catch any with your Nets, give him the Heads, Necks, and Pinions for his future encouragement.

Many more observations there are, which are too numerous here to recite; wherefore I shall desist, and give you an account of a Water-dog, and so finish this present Discourse.

How to train a WATER-DOG, and the use thereof.

I Shall begin with the best proportion of a Water-dog, and first of his colour. Although some do attribute much to the colour, yet experience lets us know they are uncertain observations.

To proceed then, your Dog may be any colour and yet excellent; but chuse him of Hair long and curled, not loose and shagged: his Head must be round and curled, his Ears broad and hanging, his Eye full, lively and quick, his Nose very short, his Lip Hound-like, his Chaps with a full set of strong Teeth, his Neck thick and short, his Breast sharp, his Shoulders broad, his Forelegs straight, his Chine square, his Buttocks round, his Belly gaunt, his Thighs brawny, &c.

For the training this Dog, you cannot begin too soon with him; and therefore as soon as he can lap, you must teach him to couch and lie down, not daring to stir from that posture without leave. Observe in his first teaching to let him eat nothing till he deserve it; and let him have no more Teachers, Feeders, Cherishers, or Correctors but one; and do not alter that word you first use in his information, for the Dog takes notice of the sound, not the language.

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When you have acquainted him with the word suitable to his Lesson, you must then teach him to know the word of Reprehension, which at first should not be used without a Jerk. You must also use words of cherishing, to give him encouragement when he does well: and in all these words you must be constant, and let them be attended with spitting in his mouth, or cherishing of the hand. There is also a word of Advice, instructing him when he does amiss.

Having made him understand these several words, you must next teach him to lead in a string or Collar orderly, not running too forward, nor hanging backward. After this you must teach him to come close at your heels without leading; for he must not range by any means, unless it be to beat Fowl from their Covert, or to fetch the wounded.

In the next place you must teach him to fetch and carry any thing you throw out of your hands. And first try him with the Glove, shaking it over his Head, and making him snap at it; and sometimes let him hold it in his mouth, and strive to pull it from him; and at last throw it a little way, and let him worry it on the ground: and so by degrees make him bring it you where-ever you throw it. From the Glove you may teach him to fetch Cudgels, Bags, Nets, &c.

If you use him to carry dead Fowl, it will not be amiss; for by that means he will not tear or bruise what Fowl you shoot.

Having perfected this Lesson, drop something behind you which the Dog doth not see; and being gone a little way from it, send him back to seek it, by saying, Back, I have lost. If he seem amazed, point with your Finger, urging him to seek out, and leave him not till he hath done it. Then drop something at a greater distance, and make him find out that too, till you have brought him to go back a mile.

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Now may you train him up for your Gun, making him stalk after you step by step, or else couch and lie close till you have shot.

Many more necessary Rules there are, which for brevity sake I must omit.

The last use of the Water-dog is in moulting-time, when Wild-fowl cast their Feathers and are unable to fly, which is between Summer and Autumn: at this time bring your Dog to their Coverts, and hunt them out into the stream, and there with your Nets surprize them, driving them into them; for at this time sheep will not drive more easily. And though some may object, that this sickly time is unseasonable; yet if they consider what excellent food these Fowl will prove when cramm'd, the taking of them may be very excusable. I have eaten of them after they have been fed a while with Livers of Beast, Whey, Curds, Barley, Paste, scalded Bran, and such-like; they have proved exceeding fat, and have tasted not so fishy as they do by their natural feeding, but exceeding sweet, and deserve to be preferred before any Fowl whatever.

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How to take, preserve, and keep all sorts of Singing-birds that are commonly known in England. Giving also an account of their Nature, Breeding, Feeding, Diseases of the same, with their Remedies.

IN the preceeding Discourse I have given you a Summary account of the several ways and artifices which are used to take either Land-fowl, or Fowl properly belonging to the Water. Upon second thoughts I look upon this Third part of the Gentlemans Recreation, called a Treatise of Fowling imperfect, if I add not now what I omitted before; a small Essay as to the Taking, Preserving, and Keeping all sorts of Singing-birds commonly known in these his Majesties three Kingdoms. They are thus called.

The Nightingal.

The Black-bird.

The Wood-lark.

The Linnet.

The Chaff-finch.

The Rob. Red-breast.

The Starling.

The Tit-lark.

The Bull-finch.

The Canary-bird.

The Throstle.

The Skie-lark.

The Gold-finch.

The Green-finch.

The Wren.

The Red-start.

The Hedgesparrow.

Lastly, their Diseases and Cures.

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Of the NIGHTINGAL.

ACcording to the judgment of most men, the Nightingale carries the Bell from all other Singing-birds, opening her charming Mouth not onely sweetly, but with much variety of pleasant Notes: It is but a small Bird, yet hath a loud voice; which made the Poet call her-----Vox, & praeterea nihil. They are so well known, a description of them would be needless; and are not onely esteemed of here, but in Italy and other parts.

They appear to us at the latter end of March, or beginning of April, and very few know where they inhabit all the Winter; some think they sleep all that season.

She makes her Nest commonly about two foot above ground, either in thick Quick-set-hedges, or in Beds of Nettles where old Quick-set hath been thrown together. She hatcheth her young ones about the beginning of May, and naturally delights to frequent cool places, where small Brooks are garnished with pleasant Groves, and Quick-set-hedges are not far distant.

That Nightingale which in my opinion is the best to keep, is he that is the earliest Bird of the Spring; for he will sing the better, having more time to hear the Old one sing than those that are hatched later.

The young Nightingales must be taken out of their Nests when they are indifferently well fledg'd in a mediocrity: for if well feathered, they will become sullen; and if too little, they are so tender the cold will kill them.

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For their meat give them lean Beef, Sheeps-heart, or Bullocks-heart, taking away first the fat Skin that covereth it, and take away the Sinews; after this, soak the like quantity of white Bread in water, and squeeze out some of the water; then mince it small; then feed them with a Stick, taking upon the point thereof the quantity of a Grey Pea, and give every one of them three or four such gobbets in an hour, as long as they shall endure to be in the Nest: when they are able to flie out of the Nest, then put them into a Cage with several Pearches for them to sit upon, and line them with some green Bays, for they are very subject to the Cramp at first; and at the bottom of the Cage put in some Moss or Hey, as well for other Birds as the Nightingale: it is safe to line their Cages against Winter, or keep them in some warm place. When they are first Caged, continue for a while to put some of their Meat by them mingled with Ants, which will induce them to feed themselves.

In the Summer you must feed them every day with fresh Meat, otherwise it will quickly grow stale or stink. When they begin to moult, give them half Egg hard boiled, and half Sheeps-heart mingled with Saffron and Water. Here note, Duck-eggs will kill them: you may give them sometimes red Worms, Caterpillars, and Hog-lice; Meal-worms make them familiar, suffering them to take them out of your hand.

The way of taking Old and Young is thus: For the Young, observe where the Cock sings; and if he sings long, the Hen is not far from that place, who oftentimes betrays her Off-spring by being too careful; for when you come near her Nest, she will Sweet and Cur: if notwithstanding this, you cannot find her Nest, stick a Meal-worm or two upon a Thorn, and then lying down or standing, observe which way [Page] it is carried by the Old one, and drawing near, you will hear the young ones when she feeds them. When you have found out the Nest, touch not the young; for if you do, they will not tarry in the Nest.

The way to take Branchers, by others called Pushers, (because when throughly fleg'd the Old ones push them out of the Nest) I say, you must take them after this manner: When you have found where they are, which you shall know by their Curring and Sweeting; (for if you call true, they will answer you immediately:) having your Tackle all ready, scrape, in the Ditch or Bank-side, the Earth about three quarters of a yard square, that it may look fresh; then take a Bird-trap, or Net-trap, which you must make after this fashion.

How to make a Net-trap for Nightingales.

Take a Net made of green Silk or Thread, about the compass of a yard, made after the fashion of a Shove-net for Fishes; then get some large Wyre, and bending it round, joyn both ends, which you must put into a short Stick about an Inch and an half long; then you must have a piece of Iron with two Cheeks and a hole on each side, through which you must put some fine Whip-cord three or four times double, that so it may hold the piece of Wood the better unto which the ends of the Wyre are put, and with a Button on each side the Iron, twist the Whip-cord, that so the Net may play the quicker: you must fasten the Net to the Wyre as you do a Shove-net to the Hoop; then get a Board of the compass of your Wyre, and joyn your two cheeks of Iron at the handle of your Board; then make a hole in the middle of your Board; and put a piece of Stick of about two Inches long, and a Hole at the Top of your Stick, which you must [Page] have a Peg to put in with two Wyres, an Inch and half long, to stick your Meal-worm upon; then tye a String in the middle of the top of your Net, drawing the Net up, having an eye at the end of the handle to put your Thread through, pull it till it stands upright, then pull it through the hole of the Stick that stands in the middle of your Board, and put your Peg in the hole, and that will hold the String that the Net cannot fall down: you must put two Worms upon the Wyres, before you put it into the hole, and set it as gently as you can, that it may fall with the first touch of the Nightingale: When you have your Net and Worm ready, having first scraped the place, then put some Ants in your Trap-cage, and upon your Board put some Worms upon Thorns, and set them at the bottom of your Trap-cage, little holes being made for the same purpose to stick in the ends of your Thorns: Then plant your Trap near to the place where you heard them call, either in the Ditch, or by the Bank-side, or corner of a Hedge, and then walk away; you may set what number of Trap-cages you think convenient. Do what is here proposed, and you need not doubt the having of your desires satisfied.

Having taken your Nightingales, (the times is in July or August) tye the ends of their Wings with some brown Thread, that so they may be disenabled to hurt themselves by beating their tender bodies against the top and Wyres of the Cage.

Let the Cage be covered above half with green Bays, and for four or five days let him be very little disturbed by company; but withal forget not to feed them half a dozen times every day with Sheeps-heart and Egg shred very fine, and mingle red Ants therewith, and a few red Earth-worms would not do amiss.

Here note, that no Nightingale at first taking will eat any other food than what is living, as Worms, [Page] Ants, Flies, or Caterpillars; which through sullenness if he will not eat, then take him out, and upon the point of a Stick (first opening his Bill) give him four or five gobbets one after another; then turn him into the Cage, strowing the bottom thereof with Egg and minced Sheeps-heart mingled with some Pismires. These Nightingales that are taken at this time of the year, will not sing till the middle of October, and then they will hold in song till the middle of June: But the Nightingales that are taken from the first of April to the twentieth, are the best Birds for Song in the whole Universe; and these are taken with Trap-cages or Trap-nets, as the Branchers aforesaid, in June, July; and August. Here observe, that Nestlings nor Branchers (except they have an old Bird to sing over them) have not the true Song for the first twelve months. When you have so tamed them that they begin to Cur and Sweet with chearfulness, and record softly to themselves, it is a certain signe that they eat, and then you need not trouble your self with feeding them; but if they sing before they feed, they commonly prove most excellent Birds: Those Birds that are long a feeding, and make no Curring nor Sweeting, are not worth the keeping. If you have a Bird that will flutter and bolt up his head in the night against the top of the Cage, keep him not, for he is not onely good for nothing, but his bad example will teach the best of your Birds to do the like.

Now to the intent you may not keep Hens instead of Cocks, and so not onely be at useless charge, but be frustrated of your expectation, you shall distinguish their Sexes by these observations. The Cock in the judgment of some is both longer and bigger: others say the Cock hath a greater Eye, a longer Bill, and a Tail more reddish: others pretend to know them by the Pinion of the Wing, and Feathers on the Head. [Page] These Rules I look not upon as infallible, having found them contrary to truth by my own experience: Now to undeceive you, take these true Experimental Observations. First, take notice that if any of your Nestlings (before they can feed themselves) do Record a little to themselves, and in their Recording you perceive their Throats to wag, you need not doubt that they are Cocks; but when they come to feed themselves, the Hen will Record as well as the Cock; therefore mark them when young, for it is very difficult to distinguish afterwards.

Branchers, whether Cocks or Hens (when taken and do feed themselves) will Record; but the Cock does it much longer, louder, and oftener.

The best sort of Nightingales frequent High-ways, Orchards, and sing close by houses: these when taken will feed soonest, being more acquainted with the company of people; and after their feeding will grow familiar, and sing speedily. Observe, not to untye too soon the Wings of your Nightingale; for if he be not very familiar and tame when he is untyed, he will be apt to beat himself against the Cage, and so spoil himself.

Now as to their Diseases and Cures, observe this, that at the latter end of August they grow very fat, either abroad or in a Cage: when it begins to abate when they do not sing, it is a dangerous signe; wherefore to remedy this, keep them very warm, giving them Saffron in their meat or water: when you perceive the growth of their fat, purge them thrice a Week for a Month, either with a Worm which is found in Pigeon-houses, or with a speckled Spider, which you may find plentifully about Vines, Currans, or Goose-berrybushes in August, and at no time else. If they are melancholy, put into their Drinking-pot some Liquorish with a little white Sugar-candy, giving them to feed [Page] on Sheeps-heart shred small, some Meal-worms, and Eggs mingled with Pismires. It is strange that some of these Birds when fat will fast three weeks, which I have known; but it is better when they eat.

Nightingales kept in a Cage two or three years, are subject to the Gout: for their Cure, take fresh Butter and anoint their Feet four or five days, and they will be well again. Here note, that for want of keeping them clean, their Feet are clog'd, and then their Claws will rot off, and are subject to Gout and Cramp, and will take no delight in themselves; to prevent these mischiefs, put dry Sand into the bottom of their Cages.

They are likewise troubled with Aposthumes and breaking out about their Eyes and Neb; for which, use Gapons-grease. And thus much of the Diseases of the Nightingale.

Of the CANARY-BIRD.

THough many of these Birds are lately brought from Germany, and therefore are called by the name of that Country, yet undoubtedly their Original proceeded from the Canary-Islands. They are in colour much like our Green-birds, but differ much in their Song and Nature; and in this they differ from all Birds: For as others are subject to be fat, the Cocks of these never are, by reason of the greatness of their mettle, and their lavish singing; either of these will not suffer him to keep hardly flesh upon his back.

The best of them are shaped long, standing straight and boldly.

Before you buy either these German or Canary-birds, hear them sing, and then you will know how to please [Page] your Ear or fancy, either with Sweet-song, Lavish-note, or Long-song, which is best, having most variety of Notes. Some like those that whisk and chew like unto a Tit-lark; others are for those that begin like a Skie-lark, and so continue their Song with a long, yet sweet Note; a third sort are for those that begin their Song with the Skie-lark, and then run upon the Notes of the Nightingale, which is very pleasant if he does it well: The last is for a loud Note and lavish, regarding no more in it than a noise.

If you would know whether your Canary-bird be in health before you purchase him, take him out of the Store-cage, and put him into a clean Cage alone; where if he stand boldly without crouching, without shrinking Feathers, and his Eyes looking brisk and chearfully; these are good signes of a healthy Bird: But now observe, if he bolts his Tail like a Nightingale after he hath dunged, if shews he is not well; though he seem lively for the present, there is some Distemper near attending: likewise if he either dung very thin and watry, or of a slimy white, and no blackness in it; these are dangerous signes of death approaching.

These Birds are subject to many Diseases, as Imposthumes which afflict their head, and are of a yellow colour, causing a great heaviness, and withal a falling from the Pearch, and death ensuing, if this Malady be not speedily cured. The most approved Cure is to make an Ointment of fresh Butter and Capons-grease melted together, and anoint therewith the Bird's Imposthume three or four days together: if it become soft, open it gently and let out the matter; then anoint the place with some of the same Ointment, and this will immediately cure him: during the Cure, give him Figs, and Liquorish, and white Sugar-candy in his Water.

Canary-birds above three years old are called Runts; [Page] at two years old they are called Eriffs; and those of the first year are called Branchers; when they are new flown and cannot feed themselves, they are called Pushers; and those that are brought up by hand, Nestlings. Now since there are but few Canary-birds which breed in England, it being so great a trouble to look after them, I shall here insert nothing concerning the ordering when they intend or begin to build; what things are necessary for them when they begin to breed; how to order them when they have young ones; or how to breed the young ones when taken out of the Nest: Those who intend to be informed of every thing hereunto belonging, may easily be instructed by applying themselves to several Germans in and about the City, who make it their business to breed Canary-birds after the best (German) fashion.

Of the BLACK-BIRD.

AS some do esteem the Nightingale to be the best Singing-bird in the World, so in my opinion the Black-bird is the worst; yet they are as frequently kept as their betters, and are in great estimation amongst the Vulgar; for no other reason that I know, than for the loudness and coarseness of his Song, as they are Borish in their Speech, and have little but rusticity in their Conditions. To be short, he is better to be eaten than kept, and is much sweeter to the Palate when dead, than to the Ear when living.

She builds her Nest upon old Stumps of Trees by Ditch-sides, or in thick Hedges. As they begin betimes, that is, in the beginning of March, (when many times the Woods are full of Snow) so they breed [Page] often, that is, three or four times a year, according as they lose their Nest.

The young Black-birds are brought up almost with any meat whatsoever; but above all, they love Groundworms, Sheeps-heart, hard Eggs, and white Bread and Milk mixt together.

This Bird sings somewhat more than three months in the year; his Note, as I said, is harsh, therefore to adde a value to him, let him be taught to whistle; yet put Song and Whistle together, in my judgment it is fitter for a large Inne than a Lady's Chamber.

Of the THROSTLE.

OF Throstles there be five kinds; the Mistle-throstle, the Northern-throstle or Felfare, the Wind-throstle, the Wood-song-throstle, and the Heath-throstle.

The first is the largest of all the five, and the most beautiful; it feeds for the most part on the Berries of Mistletoe: and since that they are so good against the Falling-sickness and Convulsions, these Throstles, when dried and pulverized and drank in the water of Mistletoe, or Black-cherry-water, are much more effectual against those two Distempers. He sings but little, and therefore though the young ones are easie to be brought up, being hardy, yet he is not worth the keeping; for his Notes are rambling and confused, yet not lavish neither.

The second is the Felfare, who comes into England before Michaelmas, and goes away about the beginning of March. In hard weather they feed on Hips and Haws; but when it is indifferently warm, there being neither Frost nor Snow on the ground, they feed on young Grass and Worms.

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They breed upon certain Rocks near the Scotish Shore three or four times a year, and are there in very great numbers: They are not so fit for the Cage as the Spit, having a most lamentable untun'd chattering tone: in Frost and Snow they are very fat, and then are most delicate food; but being killed in open weather, they are so bitter, that they are not worth the eating.

Thirdly, the Wind-throstle, (or Whindle) which travels with the Felfare out of the North, is a smaller Bird, with a dark red under his Wing. He breeds in Woods and Shaws as Song-throstles use to do, and hath an indifferent Song, exceeding the two former; but yet they are fitter for the Pot or Spit than for a Cage of Avery.

The fourth is the Wood-song-thrustle, and sings most incomparably, both lavishly, and with variety of Notes: To adde to his estimation, he sings at least nine of the twelve months in the year.

They build about the same time, place, and manner as the Black-bird does: her policy in the building of her Nest is much to be admired, since the composure cannot be mended by the art of Man: Besides the curious building, she leaves a little hole in the bottom of her Nest, as I conceive to let out the Water, if a violent shower should come, that so her Eggs or young ones may not be drowned.

They go very soon to Nest if the Weather favour them, and breed three times a year, that is, in March or April, May and June; but the first Birds usually prove the best.

Take them in the Nest when they are fourteen days old, and keep them warm and clean, not suffering them to sit on their Dung, but so contrive it, that they dung over the Nest. Feed them with raw Meat and some Bread chopped together [Page] with bruised Hemp-seed, wetting your Bread before you mingle it with the meat.

Being throughly fledg'd, put them into a Cage where they may have room enough, with two or three Pearches, and some Moss at the bottom of the Cage, to keep them clean; for otherwise they will be troubled with the Cramp, and for want of delighting in themselves the singing will be spoil'd.

Bread and Hemp-seed is as good food for them as can be given: and be mindful of furnishing them at least twice a week with fresh water, that they may bathe and prune themselves therein, otherwise they will not thrive.

The fifth and last is the Heath-throstle, which is the least we have in England, having a dark breast. Some are of opinion that this bird exceeds the Song-throstle, having better Notes, and neater Plume.

The Hen builds by the Heath-side in a Furz-bush, or stump of an old Haw-thorn, and makes not Shaws and Woods her haunt as other Throstles do. She begins not to breed till the middle of April, and breeds but twice in a year; and if kept clean and well fed, will sing three parts in four of the whole year. Their manner of breeding is in like-sort as the former.

To know the Cock from the Hen, according to old Country-judgment, is to chuse the top-bird of the Nest, which commonly is most fledg'd. Others think that to be the Cock which hath the largest Eye, and most speckles on his breast. Others chuse the Cock by the pinion of his Wing, if it hath a very dark black that goes across it; but above all, chuse him thus: If his Gullet be white with black streaks on each side, his spots on his Breast large and black, having his head of a light shining brown, with black streaks under each Eye and upon the pinion of the Wing; these are the best marks that ever I observed.

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Of the ROBIN-RED-BREAST.

IT is the opinion of some, that this little King of Birds for sweetness of Note comes not much short of the Nightingale. It is a very tender Bird, and therefore must have its Cage lined. They breed very early in the Spring, and commonly thrice a year.

When the young are about ten days old, take them from the old ones, and keep them in a little Bowerbasket: if they tarry long in the Nest, they will be sullen, and therefore more difficultly brought up: you must feed them as you feed the Nightingale in all respects: finding them grow strong, put them into a Cage, put Moss in the bottom thereof, and let them stand warm.

The way of taking a Robin-red-breast is so easie and common, that every Boy knows how to take him in a Pit-fall; but with a Trap-cage and a Meal-worm you may take half a score in a day: Hearing them sing, keep those birds which most delight you. If you take any without hearing them sing, thus you shall know whether he be Cock or Hen; if a Cock, his breast will be of a darker red, and his red will go farther up upon the head than the Hens.

Of the WREN.

THis Bird in my opinion is a pretty sweet dapper Songster, being of a nature chearful; as he is pleasant to the Ear, so he is to the Eye; and when he [Page] sings cocks up his Tail, and throws out his Notes with so much alacrity and pleasure, that I know not any bird of its bigness more delights the sense of Hearing.

This Bird builds twice a year, about the latter end of April, in shrubs where Ivy grows thick, and sometimes in old Hovels and Barns. They lay a numerous quantity of Eggs; and I can assure you I have seen a Nest containing two and twenty: herein are two things greatly to be wondred at; first, that so small a bird should cover such a great quantity of Eggs; secondly, when they have hatched, to feed them all, and not to miss one bird, and in the dark also.

Their second time of breeding is in the middle of June: of either breed, what you intend to keep must be taken out of the Nest at thirteen or fourteen days old. Let their food be Sheeps-heart and Egg minced very small, or Calves or Heifers-heart; but be sure to clear them of the Fat and Sinews, which must be a general rule to be observed for all Meat-birds. Feed them in the Nest every day very often, but a little at a time; let the instrument you feed them with be a Stick; and when you observe them to pick it off of their own accord, then eage them, and putting meat to them in a little Pan, and about the sides of the Cage, to entice them to eat; however, have a care to feed them too, lest they neglect themselves and die. When they can feed themselves very well, give them once in three days a Spider or two. You may teach them to whistle tunes if you so desire it; for they are easily taught, being a bird that's very docible. Here note, if they be fed with Paste, they will live longer than if they fed upon Hearts. The brownest and largest of the young Wrens are the Cocks.

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Of the WOOD-LARK.

SOme prefer the Wood-lark before the Nightingale; but it is of this bird as all others, some are more excellent in length and sweetness of Song.

This bird breeds the soonest of any we have, by reason of his extraordinary mettlesomeness: and therefore if they are not taken in the beginning of February at least, they grow so rank that they will prove good for nothing.

The places this bird most delights in are gravelly grounds, and Hills lying towards the Orient, and in Oat-stubs. Their building is in your Laiers grounds, where the Grass is rank and russet, making their Nests of Bennet-grass, or dead Grass of the field under some large Tuffet, to shelter them from the injury of the weather.

This Bird hath very excellent pleasant Notes, with great variety, insomuch that I have observed some have had almost thirty several Notes; which if they sing lavish, is a most ravishing melody or harmony, if the Nightingale joyn in consort.

These Birds are never bred from the Nests as ever I could hear: I have several times attempted it, but to no purpose; for notwithstanding my greatest care, they died in a Week, either of the Cramp or Scowring.

The times of the year to take them are June, July, August; and then they are called young Branchers, having not yet moulted. They are taken likewise at the latter end of September; but having then moulted, the young and old are not distinguishable.

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Lastly, they are taken from the beginning of January to the latter end of February, at which time they are all coupled and returned to their Breedingplaces.

The way to take them in June, July, and August, is with an Hobby, after this manner: get out in a dewy Morning, and go to the sides of some Hills which lie to the rising of the Sun, where they most usually frequent; and having sprung them, observe where they fall; then surround them twice or thrice with your Hobby on your Fist, causing him to hover when you draw near, by which means they will lie still till you clap a Net over them, which you carry on the point of a Stick.

If three or four go together, take a Net like one made for Partridges: when you go with a Setting-dog onely, the Mesh must be smaller, that is, a Lark-mesh; and then your Hobby to the Lark is like a Setting-dog to Partridges, and with your Net at one draught you may take the whole flock.

The Wood-lark that is taken in June, July, and August will sing presently, but will not last long, by reason of their moulting. That which is taken in January and February will sing in five or six days, or sooner; and these are the best, being taken in full stomack, and are more perfect in their Song than those taken at other seasons.

If in the Cage you find him grow poor at the beginning of the Spring, give him every two or three days a Turff of Three-leav'd-grass, (as is used to the Skie-lark) and boil him a Sheeps-heart and mince it small, mingling it among his Bread, Egg, and Hemp-seed, which will cause him to thrive extraordinarily.

If he be troubled with Lice, (a Distemper he is commonly afflicted withal) take him out of the Cage, and [Page] smoak him with Tobacco; give him fresh gravel, and set him in a hot place where the Sun shines, and this will cure him if he have strength to bask in the Sand.

If you would have him sing lavish, feed him with Sheeps-heart, Egg, Bread and Hemp-seed mixt together, and put into his water a little Liquorish, white Sugar-candy, and Saffron: Let this be done once a week.

Upon the first taking of your Wood-lark thus must you do; you must put into your Cage two Pans, one for minc'd meat, and another for Oat-meal and whole Hemp-seed. Then having boil'd an Egg hard, take the crums of white Bread; the like quantity of Hemp-seed pounded in a Mortar, and mingle your Bread and it with your Egg minc'd very small, and give it him. Let there be at the bottom of the Cage fine red Gravel, and let it be shifted every week at farthest; for he delights to bask in the Sand, which will not be convenient if foul'd with his Dung. Let the pearch of the Cage be lin'd with green Bays, or which is better, make a pearch of a Mat: and lest they should not find the Pan so soon as they should do, to prevent famine, strew upon the Sand some Oat-meal and Hemp-seed.

How to know the Cock is thus: first, the largeness and length of his Call: Secondly, his tall walking: Thirdly, at Evenings the doubling of his Note, which Artists call Cuddling; but if you hear him sing strong, you cannot be deceived.

Here note, that if a Bird sings not that is taken in February and January within one month after, you may conclude him not worth the keeping, or else is an Hen infallibly.

The Wood-lark as it is naturally endewed with incomparable notes, so it is a tender Bird, and difficult to be kept; but if rightly ordered, and well look'd to, [Page] will be a most delightful Songster to its Master growing better and better every year even to the very last.

These Birds are very subject to the Cramp, Giddiness in the Head, and to Louziness. The best remedy to prevent the Cramp, is to shift the Cage often with fresh Gravel, otherwise the Dung will clog to their feet which causeth the Cramp. The giddiness of the Head proceedeth from feeding upon much Hemp-seed: perceiving this distemper, give him some Gentles, (the common Bait for Fisher-men) Hog-lice, Emmets and their Eggs, with Liquorish, all put into water, we serve in their stead, and will cure immediately. Louziness (which causeth leanness in this bird) is cured as said before by smoaking Tobacco.

Of the SKIE-LARK: The several ways to take them; and when taken, how to order them.

THere is a great difference between one Skie-lark and another; for one may not be worth two pence, when another shall be worth two pounds.

This Bird is very hardy, and will live upon any food in a manner, so that he have but once a weeks Turff of Three-leav'd-grass. As the Wood-lark hath young ones in March, the Skie-lark hath rarely any till the middle of May. They commonly build in Corr or thick high grass Meadows, and seldom have more than four: take them at a fortnight old, and at fir [...] give them minced sheeps-heart with a chopt hard Egg mingled: when they can feed alone, give them Bread Hemp-seed, and Oat-meal; let the Bread be mingled [Page] with Egg, and the Hemp-seed bruised: Let them have Sand in the bottom of their Cage; Pearches therein are to no purpose.

As the Wood-lark is taken with Net and Hobby, so may the Skie-lark be taken also. They are taken likewise in dark nights with a Trammel; this Net is about six and thirty yards long, and six yards over, run through with six ribs of Pack-thread; which ribs at the ends are put upon two Poles sixteen foot long, made taper at each end, and so is carried between two men half a yard from the ground; every six steps touching the ground, to cause the Birds to fly up, otherwise you may carry the Net over them without disturbing them: hearing them fly against the Net, clap it down, and they are safe under it. This is a very murdering Net, taking all sorts of birds that it comes near, as Partridges, Quails, Woodcocks, Snipes, Felfares, and what not, almost in every dark night.

The next way of taking them is with a pair of Day-nets and a Glass, which is incomparable pastime in a Frosty Morning. These Nets are commonly seven Foot deep, and Fifteen long, knit with your French Mesh, and very fine Thread. These Nets take all sorts of small Birds that come within their Compass, as Bunting-larks, and Linnets in abundance.

These Larks are also taken by a Low-bell, with a great light carried in a Tub both by one man, and the Net by another; this Bell and Light so amazeth them, that they lie as dead, and stir not till the Net overcast them. By this Bell are all sorts of Fowls and Birds taken, as Partridge and Pheasant; and if the Bell be loowd, or very deep, Duck, Mallard, Woodcock, and Snipe may be taken.

The last way of taking Larks is in a great Snow, by taking an hundred or two hundred yards [Page] of Pack-thread, fastning at every six inches a Noose made with Horse-hair; two hairs are sufficient. Now since I have already described this way of taking Larks, I shall desist, and onely inform you that those Larks you intend to preserve for singing, must be taken in October or November: Chuse the straightest, largest, and loftiest Bird, and he that hath most white on his Tail, for these are the marks of the Cock. Observe in this Bird, as in all others, that you give no salt Meat, nor Bread season'd with salt.

Of the LINNET.

THeir Nests are usually in Thorn-bushes and Furt-bushes; and some of the hotter sort of them will breed four times a year. The young ones may be taken at four days old, if you intend to teach them to whistle, or learn the Song of other Birds: for being so young, they know not the tune of the old Bird. Being so young, keep them very warm, and feed them often, and a little at a time: there must be bruised soaked Rape-seeds, with the like quantity of white bread, of which there must be fresh made every day to prevent sowring, which will make them scowr to death: let not their Meat be too dry, for fear of being Ventburnt. If you intend they shall whistle, do you whistle to them in the time of Feeding, being more apt to learn before they can crack hard seeds. Whatever Bird you intend your Linnet shall learn his Notes of, hang him under it, and he will perfectly imitate him: nay, so docible this Bird is, as I have been credibly informed, that some of them have been taught to speak. To know the Cock from the Hen, must not alway [Page] be discovered by their Breasts; but the Cock is best known by the brownness of his Back and the white in his Wing; that is to say, take your young Linnet when the Wing-feathers are grown, and stretch out his Wing, holding his body fast with the other hand; and then observe the white upon the fourth, fifth, and sixth Feather; if it cast a glistering white, and the white goes close to the Quil, this is a sure sign of a Cock.

Many are the Diseases of this Bird, as the Ptisick, known by his panting, staring Feathers, lean Breast, and spilling his Seeds up and down the Cage; and this Disease happens for want of Water, or for want of green Meat in the Spring: He is troubled also with Streins or Convulsions of the Breast: Sometimes he is afflicted with hoarsness in his voice, being overstrein'd in singing: he is sometimes melancholy, at other times afflicted with scowring, of which there are three sorts; the first is thin, and with a black or white substance in the middle, not very dangerous; the second is between a black and white, clammy and sticking, this is bad; but the third and last is most mortal, which is the white clammy scowring: The several Cures I shall not here set down for brevity sake, but refer you to the care of the Bird-merchant.

Of the GOLD-FINCH, or CHRISTMAS-FOOL, so called in Norfolk.

THey are taken in great plenty about Michaelmas, and will soon become tame. The beauty of this Birds severally-colour'd Feathers is not much taken notice of, because they are so common among us; but [Page] they have been so noted and valued beyond Sea, that they have been transported in great quantities for great rarities.

They breed commonly in Apple-trees and Plumtrees thrice a year. You must take the young ones with the Nest at ten days old, and feed them after this manner: Take some of the best Hemp-seed, pound it, sift it, and mix it with the like quantity of white bread, with some flower of Canary-seeds; and taking up the quantity of a white Pea upon a small Stick, feed them therewith three or four bits at a time, making fresh every day: You must keep these Birds very warm till they can feed themselves, for their nature is very tender.

For the purgation of this Bird, as well as all others which feed on Hemp-seed, take the seeds of Mellons, Succory, and Mercury, which is a principal Herb for the Linnet; but the best for the Gold-finch are Lettice and Plantain; and nothing can be more wholesome for him than Wall or Loom-earth, and some fine Sand, and a lump or two of Sugar put always into his Cage.

Of the TIT-LARK.

THis Bird is very short in his Song, and no variety in it; yet some fancy him for his Whisking, Turring, and Chewing: He commonly appears at that time of the year that the Nightingale does, which is the beginning of April, and leaves us at the beginning of September: They are fed when taken as the Nightingale; you must cram him at first, for he will not feed himself, by reason he always feeds on live [Page] meat in the field, for which cause he is unacquainted with the meat we offer him: when he comes to feed of himself, he will eat what the Wood-lark eats, or almost any other meat.

This Bird breeds about the latter end of April, or beginning of May, and builds her Nest on the ground by some Pond-side or Ditch-side, and feeds her young with Caterpillars or Flies. They are easily brought up being hardy, and are not subject to Colds or Cramps as other Birds are, but live long if preserved with care. If you breed up this Bird young and cleanly, you may please your self with his Song; all that I can say of it is, Short and sweet.

Of the CHAF-FINCH.

THere is no scarcity of this Bird, and in my mind fitter for the Spit than a Cage, having but one short plain Song, yet for that he is admired by some, and kept very charily.

They build their Nests in Hedges and Trees of all sorts, and have young ones twice or thrice a year; they are seldom bred up from the Nest, because they are not apt to take another Birds Song, nor to whistle. The Essex-finch is best both for length of Song, and variety, concluding it with several Notes very prettily. He is very little subject to any Disease, onely he is inclinable to be very lousie, if he be not sprinkled with a little Wine twice or thrice a month.

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Of the STARLING.

THis Bird is generally kept by all sorts of people above any other bird for whistling; but their greatest fault is, they have them too fledg'd out of the Nest, and that makes them retain commonly so much of their own harsh Notes: therefore those who do intend to have them excellent, and avoid their own squeaking Notes, must take them from the old ones at the end of three or four days; and thus you must do to all birds you would learn to whistle, or speak, or learn another birds Song by hanging under him.

Of the RED-START.

THis Bird is a Fore-runner of the Nightingale, and is of a very sullen dogged temper in a cage; but abroad is very chearful, and hath a very pleasant kind of whistling Song.

The Cock is fair and beautifully coloured, and is delightful to the eye. They breed thrice a year; the latter end of April, in May, and towards the latter end of June.

They build usually in holes of hollow Trees, or under house-eaves: She is the shiest bird I know of her building; for when she is about her Nest, if she perceive any look on, she forsakes it; and if you touch an Egg she never comes more to the Nest, and if she have young ones and you do the like, she will either starve them, or break their Necks over the Nest. [Page] Now though the old ones are thus dogged, yet if you bring up their young, their nature will alter, and become very tame.

You must take them out of the Nest about ten days old; if they stay longer, they will learn somewhat of the old one's sullen temper. You must feed them with Sheeps-heart and Eggs chopped and mixt together, about the quantity of three white Peas, upon the end of a Stick, when they open their mouths: when they will thus feed, put them into a Cage with meat about it, and a Pan of meat therein; and though he feed himself, yet it will be very sparingly for four or five days, wherefore you must now and then feed him your self. Keep him warm in the Winter, and he will sing as well in the night as the day.

Of the BULL-FINCH.

THe Bull-finch hath no Song of his own, nor whistle neither, but is very apt to learn any thing almost, if taught by the mouth.

Of the GREEN-FINCH.

THis Bird is not worth a keeping for his Song, but for his colour, and being a hardy heavy bird to ring the Bells.

They breed very sillily by the High-way-side, and early before the Hedges have leaves upon them; which causes every one to see their Nests at first, so that seldom their first Nests come to any thing. They breed three [Page] times a year, and the young ones are very hardy birds to be brought up. You may feed them with white Bread and Rape bruised and soaked together: He is apter to take the Whistle than another Bird's Song. All that can be said of him, he is a very dull Bird, and will never kill himself either by singing or whistling.

Of the HEDGE-SPARROW.

THis is not so despicable a bird as some would have it; for if you will mind its Song, you will find very delightful Notes, and sings early in the Spring with great variety. Old or young become tame very quickly, and will sing in a short time after they are taken; so that you take them at the latter end of January or beginning of February: they will feed almost on any thing you give them.

They commonly build in a White-thorn or private Hedge, laying Eggs much different from other Birds, being of a very fine blue colour. This Bird is very tractable, and will take any bird's Song almost, if taken young out of the Nest. I shall only speak a few Experiments of others, and deliver some Observations of my own concerning the length of Birds lives, and which are most proper for whistling, and so shall end this Treatise.

First, As to the length of Birds Lives: Among Nightingales some live but one year, some three, some five, some eight, and some twelve; singing better and better for the first seven or eight years, and after that decline by little and little: They must have careful keepers that can preserve their lives to the fifth year; [Page] experience informs us, where one lives to that age, an hundred die.

The Wood-lark seldom lives in a Cage above six years, and hardly five.

The Robin-red-breast rarely lives above seven years; for he is a tender Bird, and much subject to the Falling-sickness, Cramp, and Oppression of the Stomack.

The Skie-lark as he is a hardy Bird, so he is long liv'd also. All sorts of Seed-birds live longer than any soft-beak'd Birds, especially the Canary and Linnet. I have known a Canary-bird live and sing within a year of twenty; in like manner the Linnet.

So much as to the Lives of Singing Birds; let us now consider which are most fit for Whistling.

In the first place I look upon the Starling to be the best; and never heard better than at the Grey-Hound in St. Mary Ax, taught and sold by the ingenious Master of that House. But since I have spoken of the Starling and Bull-finch already, I shall insist no farther.

The Black-bird hath a kind of rude Whistle; and if young taken out of the Nest, is very apt to learn.

The Robin-red-breast is a most incomparable Bird for the Whistle, and to Speak also. A Robin is a hot-mettled Bird, and therefore he must not be in the hearing of another; wherefore if you breed two, let them be separated into two several Rooms, that they may not hear, and so consequently spoil each other.

The Canary-bird will learn to Whistle any thing almost, if taken young out of the Nest, otherwise not; for being a very hot-mettled Bird, he will run upon his own Song do what you can.

The Linnet will learn any Tune almost, if not too [Page] long, and too full of variety. Learn him one Tune first, then another, keeping him dark and still, out of the noise of other Birds.

Take this for a general Rule for all Birds, That the younger they be, the better they will prove, and answer your expectation for all your trouble and pains in bringing up and keeping them.

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An Abstract Of such STATUTE-LAWS As concern FOWLING.

Stat. 11 Hen. 7. cap. 17. NOne shall take Pheasants or Partridges with Engines in another's ground without License, in pain of 10 l. to be divided betwixt the Owner of the Ground and Prosecutor.

Stat. 25 Hen. 8. cap. 11. None shall destroy or take away the Eggs of any Wild-Fowl, in pain to forfeit for every Egg of a Crane or Bustard so taken or destroyed 20 d. Of a Bittern, Hern, or Shoveland 8 d. And of a Mallard, Zeal, or other Wild-Fowl 1 d. to be divided betwixt the King and the Prosecutor.

[Page] Stat. 23 Eliz. cap. 10. None shall Kill or take any Pheasants or Partridges with any Net or Engine, in the night-time, in pain to forfeit for every Pheasant 20 s. And for every Partridge 10 s. which if the Offender pay not within ten days, he shall suffer one months Imprisonment without Bail, and enter into Bond (for two years) with good Sureties before some Justices of Peace, not to offend in the like kind.

II. None shall Hawk or Hunt with his Spaniels in standing Grain, or before it is Stocked (except in his own Ground, or with the Owner's consent) in pain to forfeit 40 s. to the Owner of the said Ground, to be recovered as aforesaid.

This Act shall not restrain Fowlers who unwillingly take Pheasants or Partridges, and forthwith let them go at large.

Stat. 1 Jacob. cap. 27. Every person convicted by his own Confession, or by two Witnesses upon Oath, before two or more Justices of Peace, to have Killed or Taken any Pheasant, Partridge, Pigeon, or other Game; or to have taken or destroyed the Eggs of Pheasants, Partridges, or Swans, shall by the said Justices be committed to Prison without Bail, unless he immediately pay to the use of the Poor where the Offence was committed, [Page] or he apprehended, 20 s. for every Fowl or Egg so killed, taken or destroyed; and after one Months Commitment, shall before two or more Justices of Peace be bound with two sufficient Sureties in 20 l. apiece, with condition never to offend in the like kind again.

II. Every person convicted as abovesaid, to keep a Grey-hound, Dog, or Net to kill or take Deer, Hare, Pheasant, or Partridge (unless he have Inheritance of 10 l. per Annum, a Lease for life of 30 l. per Annum, or be worth 200 l. in Goods, or otherwise be the Son of a Baron or Knight, or Heir apparent of an Esquire) shall suffer Imprisonment as aforesaid, unless he pay 40 s. to the use abovesaid.

III. None shall sell, or buy to sell again any Pheasant or Partridge, (except by them reared up or brought from beyond Sea) in pain to forfeit for every Pheasant 20 s. and every Partridge 10 s. to be divided betwixt the Prosecutor and the Poor of the parish where such Offence is committed.

Stat. 7 Jacob. cap. 11.Every person convicted by his own Confession, or by two Witnesses upon Oath, before two or more Justices of Peace, to have Hawked, or destroyed any Pheasant or Partridge, betwixt the first of July and the last of August, shall suffer one Moneths Imprisonment without Bail, unless he pay to the use of the Poor where the Offence was committed, [Page] or be apprehended 40 s. for every time so hawking, and 20 s. for every Pheasant or Partridge so taken or destroyed: But this offence shall be prosecuted within six months after it shall be committed.

II. It shall be lawful for the Lord of a Mannor, or any having free Warren, Inheritance of 40 l. per Annum, Free-hold of 80 l. per Annum, or Goods worth 400 l. or their Servants (Licensed by them) to take Pheasants or Partridges within their own Grounds or precinct, so they do it in the day-time, and only betwixt Michaelmass and Christmass.

III. If any person of a mean condition shall be convicted by his own Confession, or by one Witness upon Oath before two or, more Justices of the Peace, to have killed or Taken any Pheasant or Partridge with Dogs, Nets, or Engines, he shall by the said Justices be Committed to Prison without Bail, unless he pay to the use of the Poor where the Offence was committed 20 s. for every Pheasant or Partridge so killed or taken: And also become bound before one or more Justice of Peace in a Recognizance of 20 l. never to offend in the like kinde agaiu.

IV. Every Constable or Headborough (upon Warrant under the hand of two Justices of Peace) hath power to search the Houses of persons suspected to have [Page] any Setting-Dogs or Nets for the the taking of Pheasants, or Partridges; and the Dogs or Nets there found to kill and cut in pieces at pleasure, as things forfeited unto the said Officers.

V. He that shall be punished by vertue of this Act, shall not be punished again by vertue of any other Law for the same Offence.

4

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Barbel

Tench

Roach

Dace

Gudgion

Pearch

Loach

Eele

Grayling

Salmon

Trout

Carp

Bream

Pike

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THE GENTLEMAN'S Recreation: Containing DIRECT RULES FOR THAT Noble and Delightful ART OF ANGLING: Whereunto is annexed An Abstract of all such Statute for penal Laws relating to that Curious Art.

The Fourth Part.

LONDON, Printed by J. C. for N. C.

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OF FISHING. The Introduction.

ANGLING is an excellent Art, which as it pleads great Antiquity, so the knowledge thereof is with much difficulty to be obtained: and indeed it bears some similitude to Poetry in this, that as it is said, Poeta nascitur, non fit, so ought the Piscator or Fisher-man to have a natural inclination unto the Art of Angling, or his knowledge therein will be always dull and imperfect; not but that it may be much heightned by practice and experience.

Now he that intends to be his Crafts-master in this harmless Pastime or Recreation, must not onely diligently search and enquire into the mysteries and depths of this Art, but must also be furnished, as aforesaid, with a natural propensity thereunto, attended with observation and Patience: And having gotten by observationand practice a competent knowledge, or having [Page] conquer'd the difficulties of Angling, it will then not onely prove pleasant, but profitable, and be like Vertue, a Reward to it self.

Now that I may farther commend this ingenious profession, be pleased to take notice of the Antiquity thereof; some saying it is as ancient as Deucalion's Flood. Some attribute it to the invention of one Belus, the first Author of vertuous Recreations. Others say that Seth left the knowledge of Angling to his posterity ingraven on brazen Pillars with the first Rudiments of the Mathematicks, and other useful Arts; by which means they were preserved from perishing in the universal Deluge

Divers are the opinions of men concerning the Antiquity of this Art: let it suffice, that certainly it is older than Christ's Incarnation; for both Job and the Prophet Amos make mention of Fish-hooks, and consequently there must be Anglers then in those days

The next thing that offers it self in the commendation of this Art, is the benefit of Contemplation, which is acquired hereby; which is a thing (according to the opinion of some learned Cloister'd men) to be preferred before Action, because say they) it makes us mortals the nearer to come to the Creator by way of imitation; for he is all Contemplation of his own infinite Power Goodness, &c.

But waving this, I cannot let slip the expression of an ingenious Forreiner, who said, That Rivers and the Inhabitants of the watry Element were made for wise men to contemplate, and fools to pass by without consideration. Modesty will not permit me to rank my self in the number of the first; and I shall endeavour to clear my self from the scandal of the last, by giving you a short account of Rivers and their watry Inhabitants.

I shall first discourse of Rivers: one whereof I have [Page] read of, scituate in Epirus, which hath a strange double and contrar property; the one is, that it will extinguish any Torch that is lighted: and the other is, to light a Torch never lighted before.

The River Silarus in a few hours will (as report saith) convert a Rod into Stone. And I my self know a Lough in Ireland, that in some years will convert Wood into Stone, of which are made the best Hones. Cambden makes mention of a Well near Kerby in Cumberland, that ebbs and flows several times every day.

The same Author makes mention of the River Mole in Surrey, which, running several miles under ground, being opposed by Hills, at last breaks out again so far off, that the Inhabitants thereabout boast (as the Spaniards of the River Ama) that they feed several Flocks of Sheep on a green Bridge. There is such another green Bridge in Wales, the River running a great way under ground, and there di [...] emboguing it self into the Sea. Some thereabout report, that they have put a living Goose into the Hole where the Water falls, and she hath swum out at the other end; but with no Feathers on her back.

Mr. Thomas May in his History of The Reign of King Henry the Second, relates two strange things from Gricaldus Cambrensis, of certain Wells in Ireland. His Words are these:

A Well there is in Munster to be seen,

Within whose Waters whosoe're hath been

Once drench'd, his Hair streight takes an hoary dye.

Another Fountain of quite contrary

Effect to that in Ulster Springs; for there

Those that have washed once, how old soe're,

Shall never after have an hoary Hair.

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Another thing, though against Nature, yet for the strangeness of it I cannot choose but relate, and that is of a certain River near Harwood in Bedfordshire, which in the year of our Lord 1399, (a little before the Civil Wars between the Houses of York and Lancaster burst forth) of a sudden stood still, and divided it felf asunder, so that men might pass three miles together on foot down the midst of the Channel, leaving the Waters like a Wall behind them. Speed in his Descript. Bedford.

I shall conclude with two of the strangest Rivers that ever were heard of. The first is a River called Eleusina, which is so merrily disposed, (if you will believe a man of no less Authority than Aristotle) that it will dance to a Fiddle, bubling at the noise of Musick, and will grow very muddy; but as soon as the Musick ceaseth, it ceaseth its motion, returning to its former calmness and clearness. The other is as wonderful, and (if you will believe Josephus that learned Jew) it is a River in Judaea, which runs very swisth all the six days of the Week, but resteth on the Seventh, which is the Jewish Sabbath.

And now a word or two concerning Fish: Plinsaith, That Nature's great and wonderful powers more demonstrated in the Sea than on the Land: and this may appear by those numerous and various Creatures which inhabit in and about that Element; which will appear more at large, if you will read their History written either by Rondeletius, Gesner, Johnstonus, or Aldrovandus. The number and the various shapes o [...] these Fishes are not more strange, than their different Natures, Inclinations and Actions. Give me leave to speak a little hereof.

There is a Fish called the Cuttle-fish, which w [...] cast a long Gut out of her Throat, with which she a [...] gles: For lying obscurely in the Mud, she perm [...] [Page] small Fish to nibble at it, and by that means draws them near her by little and little, till coming within her reach, she leaps upon them and devours them: hence she is called the Sea-Angler.

The Hermit is a Fish that when she grows old will seek out a dead Fish's shell, fit for her purpose, and there dwell secluded from all company, studying nothing more than how to defend her self against the injuries of Wind and Weather.

The Sargus is a Fish so lascivious, (as Du-Bartas expresseth it rarely well) that when he cannot find change of Mates enough in the Sea, he will get ashore and Cuckold a Goat.

Goes courting She-Goats on the grassy Shore,

Horning their Husbands that had Horns before.

Whereas it is reported that the Mullet is so chast, that when she is deprived of her Mate, she will follow him to the shore and dye.

The Torpedo, or Cramp-fish, is a Fish of so baneful and poysonous a nature, that all other Fish that come within her reach are immediately stupified and without motion, so that they easily become her prey; nay, she will so suddenly convey her Poyson up the Rod and Line of the Angler, when she feels her self entangled, that his Hands and Arms immediately losing their strength, become nummed and senseless.

The Scolopendra hath as rare and strange a way of defending her self from the Anglers subtilty, as any Fish whatever, if we may credit the relation of Du-Bartas, whose words are these:

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But if the Scolopendra have suckt in

The sowre-sweet morsel with the barbed pin,

She hath as rare a Trick to rid her from it;

For instantly she all her Guts will vomit;

And having clear'd them from the danger, then

She fair and softly sups them in again,

So that not one of them within her Womb

Changeth his Office or his wonted room.

The Remora is a Fish of so strange and secret a property (and for that reason is often used for a Metaphor) that as the same Du-Bartas saith,

Let all the Winds in one Wind gather them,

And (seconded with Neptune's strongest stream)

Let all at once blow all their stiffest gales,

Aftern a Galley under all her sails;

Let her be holpen with an hundred Oars;

Each lively handled by five lusty Rowers;

The Remora fixing her feeble Horn

Into the Tempest-beaten Vessels Stern,

Stays her Stone-still.

In the year of our Lord 1180, near Orford in Suffolk, there was a Fish taken in the perfect shape of a Man; he was kept by Bartholomew de Glanvile in the Castle of Orford above half a year; but at length, not being carefully looked to, he stole to the Sea, and was never seen after. He never spake, but would eat any Meat that was given him, especially raw Fish, when he had squeezed out the juice: He was often had to Church, but never shewed any sign of Adoration.

Let what is already spoken of Fish suffice, since it will not onely be impertinent to enlarge farther, but [Page] impossible here to give an account of the natures of all Fish: I shall therefore refer you to such Authors who have made it their business to write large Volumes.

Before I put an end to this Introduction, permit me to insert something in the praise of Fishermen and Fishing.

A short Encomium, or somewhat in Praise of Fisher-men and Fishing.

IT is very remarkable, that amongst the Twelve Holy Apostles there were four of them Fisher-men, whom our Saviour elected and inspired to preach the Gospel. And the reason that some give for this choice is, that he knew and found the hearts of such men naturally more fitted for Contemplation and quietness, having Spirits mild, sweet, and peaceable.

Besides, our Saviour seems to have a more than common respect for their Ocupation, for two reasons. First, He never reproved these for their profession, as he did others, viz. the Scribes and Money-changers. Next, He dignified these poor Fisher-men with the priority of Nomination in the Catalogue of his Twelve Apostles. Nay, that which is more observable is this, that our Saviour took only three of these Fisher-men with him when he ascended the Mount to bear him company at his Transfiguration.

Now as to the lawfulness of Fishing, I think none can speak against it, since our Saviour himself commanded St. Peter to fish to pay Caesar his Tribute.

And as the Ancients have highly applauded and approved [Page] of this ingenious Exercise, several of the Hero's of old, in the height of their glory, having exercised themselves herein: so several of our eminent late Divines have done the like; as Dr. Whitaker, learned Perkins, Dr. Nowel Dean of St. Pauls London, and the incomparable Sir Henry Wotton Provost of Eaton Colledge, who was a great lover of Angling, and would frequently say thereof, that it was after his Study a Rest to his mind, a chearer to his Spirits, a diverter of sadness, a Calmer of unquiet thoughts, a Moderator of Passions, a procurer of Contentedness; and that it begot habits of Peace and Patience in those that profess and practice it. And thus I conclude the praise of Angling, though much more might be spoke thereof.

How to Improve Fish-ponds, and the Fish therein contained.

BEfore I shall lay down such Observations and Instructions, which with much pains and cost I have collected, to render a Fisher-man compleat in that delightful Exercise of taking Fish: I shall give an account of Ponds, and how they may in the best manner be improved.

Imprimis. Consider the scituation of your Pond, and the nature of those Currents which run into it. In the next place, observe whether it be a Breeder, or not; if it be a Breeder, Experience will instruct you never to expect any large Carps from such Ponds, for the greatness of the number of the Spawn will over stock the Pond; therefore for large Carps a Store-pond is ever accounted best.

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Now to make a Breeding-pond become a Store-pond, when you cannot make a Store-pond become a Breeding-pond, thus you must do. When you sue your Pond, consider what quantity of Carps it will maintain; then put in all Milters, or all Spawners, by which means in a little time you will have Carps that are both large and fat beyond your expectation. By puting in but one Sex of them, there is an impossibility of encreasing of them; but of the Roach it will notwithstanding multiply abundantly: Therefore it is needful, and altogether necessary for such who keep Breeding-ponds, to sue them once in three years, for fear of the encrease of Roaches, though none were ever put in, which may seem very strange, if the truth thereof could not be made manifest; as thus: there are several Ponds frequented by Wild-ducks, which usually come at nights to feed with the Tame ones there abiding: Now those Wild-ducks bring these Roaches with them, for their feeding amongst weeds in Rivers.

Besides the Spawn of Roaches will hang about their Feet and Feathers, which is washed off by the water of those Ponds they are accustomed to haunt; by which means in a few years they become so numerous though you your self did not put one into the Breeding pond; for which cause you sind your Carps so lean, and almost hunger starved.

By the way, give me leave to insert this true story. A Gentleman not far from the City of London, had a large pond of about four Acres of ground; a Gentleman standing by at the suing thereof, and seeing not only a great quantity of Fish, but the best grown that ever he saw, he advised him to put in two or three hundred of stores of Carp, about three or four years growth, out of a pond that was over stocked, and to put Sixty of those he had taken out; which [Page] accordingly he saw done, fancying to see stately Carps at the next suing.

After the expiration of four years, this Gentleman was advised to sue his Pond, to see what Monsters four years addition to their growth would produce; for those sixty Carps were from Eye to Fork from fifteen Inches to eighteen Inches when he put them in: now having sued his Pond, he found almost the whole number of his Carps; but they were in such a lean condition, that he did not know them; for they were Monsters in Nature their heads being bigger than their whole bodies, and almost as heavy and this happened it seems by his own foll, by putting in but twenty Roaches; and when the Pond was sued there were bushels of small Roaches, and these Roaches eat up all the sweet feed from the Carps; for Roaches are like sheep to great Cattle, which eat up and devour all the sweet feed, and what affords the greatest nutriment. This Gentleman was very much frustrated of his expectation; and the Fish-monger which came from London to buy a penny-worth as soon as he perceived the Monsters, he mounted his Horse, and rid as if the Devil drove him, not so much as bidding the Gentleman farewel. Here is to be noted, that Ponds which will not breed one Carp; Roaches in one year will multiply by thousands; therefore you must be careful every year to view your Pond, and observe if any such fry appears, lest when you come to sue your Pond, you be deceived in your expectation.

How to make Carps grow to an extraordinary bigness in a Pond.

PErceiving about the month of April that your pond begins to grow low in Water, then with an Iron-Rake, [Page] rake all the sides of your pond where the water is fallen away; then sow some Hay-seeds, and rake it well; by this means at the later end of Summer there will be a great growth of Grass; which when winter comes, and the pond being raised by Rain to the Top, will overflow all that Grass; and then the Carps having water to carry them to the feed, will fill themselves, and in a short time become as fat as Hogs that are kept up for that purpose: Do this every Summer till you sue your Pond, and you will find no River-Carp to surpass them either in fatness or sweetness.

General Observations to be understood by all such who desire to attain to the compleat and perfect Art of Angling.

BY no means fish in light and dazling Apparel but let your Cloathing be of a dark dusky colour.

Wheresoever you use to angle (for the Angler hath his peculiar haunt) cast in once in four or five days Corn boiled soft; if for Carp and Tench, oftner: also you may cast in Garbage, Livers of Beasts, Worms chopt in pieces, or Grains steeped in Blood and dried. This will attract the Fish unto the place: and to keep them together as you fish, throw in half a handful of Grains of ground Malt. This must be done in still water; but in a Stream you must cast your Grains above your Hook, and not about it; sor as they float from your Hook, so will they draw the Fish after them.

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If you will bait a Stream, get some Tin-boxes made full of holes no bigger than just fit for a Worm to creep through; then fill these Boxes with them, and having fastned a Plummet to sink them, cast them into the Stream with a string fastned thereto, that you may draw them forth when you please, by the smalness of the holes asoresaid, the Worms can crawl out but very leasurely, and as they crawl the Fish will resort about them.

If you would bait for Salmon, Trout, Umber and the like, in a Stream, then take some blood, and therewith incorporate fine Clay, Barley, and Malt ground adding thereto some Water; make all in a Paste with Gum of lvy; then form it into Cakes, and cast them into the stream. Some will knead or stick Worms therein fast by the head. If you find your bait take no effect in the attracting of the Fish, you may then conclude some Pike or Pearch lurketh thereabout to seize his Prey, for fear of which the Fish dare not venture thereabout: you must therefore remove these obstructions of your sport, by taking your Trowl; and let your Bait be either Brandlings or Lob-worms; or you may use Gentles, or Minows, which they will greedily snap at.

Keep your Rod neither to dry nor to moist, lest the one make it brittle, and the other rotten. If it be very soultry dry Weather, wet your Rod a little before you Angle: and having struck a good Fish, keep your Rod bent, and that will hinder him from running to the end of the Line, by which means he will either break his hold or the Hook.

If you would know what Bait the Fish loves best at the time of your fishing, having taken one, slit his Gill, and take out his Stomach, and open it without bruising, and there you will find what he last fed on and had a fancy to; by which means you may bait your Hook accordingly.

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When you fish, shelter your self under some Bush or Tree, or stand so far from the brink of the River that you can only discern your Float: for Fish are timorous, and are affrighted at the least sight or motion. The best way of Angling with the Fly is down the River, and not up, as you will find by experience.

You never need make above half a dozen trials in one place, either with Fly or Ground-bait, when you angle for Trout; for by that time he will either offer to take, or refuse the Bait, and not stir at all.

If you will have Fish bite eagerly and freely, and without suspition, you must present them with such Baits as naturally they are inclined to, annd in such manner ar they are accustomed to receive them.

If you use Pastes for Baits, you must add Flax or Wool, mix a little Butter therewith and that will preserve the Paste srom washing off your Hook.

The Eyes of such Fishes as you kill, are most excellent Baits on the Hook for almost any sort of Fish.

Lastly, make not this or any other Recreation your dayly practice, lest your immoderate Exercise therein bring a Plague upon you rather than a pleasure.

Astrological Elections for Angling in general.

IF as the Wise man saith, (and I think there is none that dare question his Authority) that There is a proper time and season for every action under the Sun, I hope it will not be offensive nor impertinent to show what time and seasons the intelligent Angler ought to make choice of, that may answer his expectation. For my own part, I have so often experimented the truth of these Rules, that by my good will I would [Page] never: Angle but at an elected time: the ingenious will not despise them, and for others they were not intended: And they are these;

If you would Neptune's scaly Subjects get,

Nights horned Queen in the Midheaven set: ☽

Thence let her on the Paphian Goddess shine ♀

I th'West, and greet her with a friendly Trine.

Be sure you always fortify the East;

And let the Maiden-Star possess the West: ♏

However let some Aquatick Sign ascend, ♋. ♍. ♓.

And let all power his happy Lord attend.

Then see the setting Constellation be

Afflicted by some hateful Enemy, ♂

At least his Lord, the sixth with strength defend;

Let active power his Radiant Lord attend.

Then may you boldly venture to the Flood,

And take from thence what Fishes you see good.

What provision is to be made for Angling-Tools.

THE time of providing Stocks is in the Winter-Solstice, when the Trees have shed their Leaves, and the Sap is in the Roots: For after January it ascends again into the Trunk and Branches, at which time it is improper to gather Stocks or Tops.

Let your Stocks be taper-grown, and your Tops the best Rush-ground-shoots you can get, not knotty, but proportionable aud slender; otherwise they will neither cast nor strike well, and by reason of their unpliableness your Line will be much endanger'd.

Having gathered your Stocks and Tops all in one season, [Page] and as straight as you can, bathe them, saving the Tops, over a gentle fire, and use them not till fully seasoned, till about a year and four months: they are better if kept two years.

Now to preserve these Stocks or Tops from rotting, or worm-eating, rub them over thrice a year with Sallet or Linseed-oyl; sweet Butter will serve, if never salted; and with any of these you must chafe well your Rods: if bored, pour in either of the Oyls, and let them bathe therein twenty sour hours, then pour it out again; and this will preserve your I ops and Stocks from injury

How to joyn the Stock or Top together, or how to make all sorts of Rods for Fly, Ground, or otherwise, with what lengths are best for several sorts of Fishing, I need not here relate; since without putting your self to the trouble, you may purchase them of such as sell them at no dear rates.

How to make a Line after the best manner.

LET your Hair be round, and twist it even, for that strengthens the Line; and let your Hair, as near as you can, be of an equal bigness: then lay them in Water for a quarter of an hour, bv which means you will find which of the Hairs do shrink; than twist them over again.

Some intermingle Silk in the twisting, but I cannot approve of it; but a Line of all Silk is not amiss; also a Line made of the smallest Lute-string is very good, but that it will soon rot by the Water.

The best colour for Lines is the sorrel, white, and grey; the two last for clear waters, and the grey for muddy Rivers: neither is the pale wacry green to be contemned, which colour you may make after this manner.

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Take a pint of strong Ale, half a pound of Soot, a small quantity of the juice of Walnut-leaves, with the like quantity of Alum; put these into a Pipkin, and boil them together about half an hour: Having so done, take it off the fire, and when it is cold put in your Hair. Or thus:

Take a pottle of Alum-water, somewhat more than a handful of Marigold-flowers, boil them till a yellow scum arise; then take half a pound of green Copperas, with as much Verdegreece, and beat them together to a fine powder: put these with the Hair into the Alum-Water, and let it lie ten hours or more; then take the Hair out, and let it dry.

In the making your Line leave a Bought at both ends, the one to put it to and take it srom the Rod, the other to hang your lowest link upon to which your Hook is fastned; and so you may change your Hook as often as you please.

Of the Hook, Flote, and other things worth the Observation.

YOur Hook ought to be long in the shank, somewhat round in its circumference, the point standing even and straight; and let the bending be in the shank.

Use strong, but small Silk, in the setting on of your Hook, laying the Hair on the inside of your Hook: for if it be on the outside, the Silk will fret and cut it a sunder.

As for the Flotes, there are divers way of making them: Some use your Muscovy-Duck-quills, which are the best for still Waters; but for strong streams take good sound Cork without flaws or holes, and bore it through with a hot Iron; then put into it a [Page] Quill of a fit proportion; then pare your Cork into a Pyramidal form of what bigness you think fit; after this grind it smooth.

To plum your Ground, you must carry with you a Musquet-bullet with a hole made through it, or any other sort of Plummet, tying this to a strong twist, hang it on your Hook, and so you will find the depth of the Water.

And that you may not incommode your Tackle, it will be very requisite to make several partitions in pieces of Parchment sowed together, by which each Utensil may have a place by it self.

In any wise forget not to carry a little Whetstone with you to sharpen your Hooks if you find them blunt and dull.

I need not advise you how to carry your BOB and PALMER, or put you in mind of having several Boxes of divers sizes for your Hooks, Corks, Silk, Thread, Lead, Flies, &c. or admonish you not to forget your Linnen and Wollen Bags for all sorts os Baits; but let me forwarn you not to have a PAUNDER that is heavy, for it can never be light enough: those which are made of Osiers I think are the best.

Lastly, forget not carry with you a small Pole with a Loop at the end thereof, to which you may fasten a small Net to land great Fish withal.

There is another way much better, and that is by the Landing-hook, which hath a Screw at the end of it to screw it into the Socket of a Pole: to which Socket may be fitted also two other Hooks, the one to pull out Wood, and the other sharp to our away Weeds.

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Of Flies Natural and Artificial, and how to use them.

NAtural Flies are innumerable, there being as many kinds as there are different sorts of Fruits: to avoid prolixity, I shall onely name some of them, viz. the Dun-fly, the Stone or May-fly, the Red Fly, the Moor-fly, the Tawny-fly, the Shel-fly, the Cloudy or Blackish-fly, the Flag-fly, the Vine-fly; also Caterpillers, Canker-flies, and Bear-flies, with Thousands more which frequent Meadows and Rivers, for the contemplation of all, but particularly the recreation of Anglers.

These come in sooner or later, according to the season of the year, that is, sooner, or later according to the forwardness or backwardness of the Spring; for Flies being bred of Putrefaction, commence their being according as the Heat doth further their seminal vertue unto animation

I cannot prescribe you Rules to know when each Fly cometh in, and is most grateful to every sort of Fish; and therefore I shall leave the knowledge hereof to your own observation.

Moreover, there are several sorts of Flies according to the several natures of divers Soils and Rivers, or diversity of Plants; yet some there are common to all, although but few.

All Flies are very good in their seasons for such Fish as rise at the Fly; but some more peculiarly good, as being better beloved by some sort of fish.

Fish generally rise at these Flies most eagerly when most sorts of Flies resort to the Water-side, hanging in a manner in clusters on Trees and Bushes, delighting themselves to skip thence and play upon [Page] the water; and then do the fish shew their craft in catching them.

To the intent you may the better know what kind of Fly the Fish then most covet, observe thus to do; coming in the Morning to the River-side, beat the Bushes with your Rod, and take up what variety you may of all sorts of Flies, and try them all; by which means you will quickly know which are in greatest estimation among them. Not but that they will change their Fly sometimes, but then it is when they have glutted themselves there with for five or six days together, which is commonly upon the going out of that Fly: for Fish never covet that Fly more than when there is greatest plenty, contemning them at their first coming in.

There are two ways to fish with these natural Flies; either on the surface of the water, or a little underneath it. Now when you angle for Chevin, Roach, or Dace with the natural Fly, move it not swiftly when you see the Fish make at it, but rather let it glide spontaneously towards it with the Stream: If it be in a still and slow water, draw the Fly slowly sideways by him, that will make him eager in pursuit of it; whereas if you should move it swiftly, they will not follow it, being a lazy fish and slow of motion. These fish delight to shew themselves in a Sun-shiny-day almost on the very surface of the Water, by which means you may pick and choose.

The Artificial Fly is seldome used but in blustering weather, when by the Winds the Waters are so troubled, that the Natural Fly cannot be seen, nor rest upon them.

There are (according to the opinion of Mr. Walton, a very ingenious man, and an excellent Angler) twelve sorts of Artificial Flies to angle with on the top of the Water, of which these are the principal.

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The first is (to use his own words) the Dun-fly, in March, made of dun Wool, and the Feathers of a Partridge's Wing.

The second is a Dun-fly too, and made of black Wool, and the Feathers of a black Drake; the Body made of the first, and the Wings of the latter.

The third is the Stone-fly, in April; the Body is made of black Wool made yellow under the Wings and Tail.

The fourth is the Ruddy-fly, in the beginning of May; the Body being made of red Wool, and bound about with black Silk, with the Feathers of a red Capon, which hang dangling on his sides next his Tail.

The fifth is the Yellow or Greenish Fly, in June; the Body is made of black Wool, with a yellow List on either side, and the Wings taken off the Wings of a Buzzard, bound with black braked Hemp.

The sixth is the Moorish-fly; the Body made of duskish Wool, and the Wings made of the blackish Mail of the Drake.

The seventh is the Tawny-fly, good until the middle of June; the Body made of tawny Wool, the Wings made contrary one against another, of the whitish Mail of the white Drake.

The eighth is the Wasp-fly, in July; the Body made of black Wool lapt about with yellow Silk, the Wings made of Drake-feathers.

The ninth is the Shel-fly, good in the middle of July; the Body made of greenish Wool lapt about wirh the Herle of a Peacock's Tail, and the Wings made of Buzzards Wings.

The tenth and last is the Drake-fly, good in August; the Body made of black Wool lapt about with black Silk, his Wings of the Mail of the black Drake with a black head.

And then having named two more, he concludes wittily, [Page] Thus have you a Jury of Flies, likely to betray and condemn all the Trouts in the River.

This in my opinion seems a tedious and difficult way. I should rather think it better to find the Fly proper for every season, and that which the Fish at that time most eagerly covet, and make one as like it as possibly you may, in colour, shape, and proportion; and for your better imitation lay the natural Fly before you.

There are several ways of making these artificial Flies, which I shall forbear here to relate, thinking it more proper to leave it to the ingenuity of every particular person, which will be very much help'd by seeing and observing the Artist's method in their composition.

The best Observations I can collect for artificial Fly-fishing, are these:

First, Observe to fish in a River somewhat disturbed by Rain, or in a cloudy day, when the Waters are moved by a gentle breez: the South-wind is best, the West indifferent, but the East is stark naught. But as to this I give not much credit; for let the Sky be cloudy, and the Season not too cold, I'le bid defiance to any Wind that blows not too hard. If it blow high, yet not so high but that you may conveniently guide your Tackle, they will rise in plain Deeps, where you shall kill the best Fish: but if the Wind be small, then is the best angling in swift Screams; and be sure to keep your Fly in continual motion.

Secondly, Keep as far from the Water-side as you can, whether you fish with a Fly or Worm; and fish down rhe Stream, having the Sun on your back, not suffering your Line to touch the Water but your Fly onely. Here note, that the light Fly makes most sport in a dark night, and the darkest or least Fly in a clear dry.

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Thirdly, In clear Rivers ever Angle with a small Fly with slender Wings; but in such as are muddied by Rain, use a Fly that is larger bodied than ordinary.

Fourthly, When the water beginneth to clear after Rain, and becomes brownish, then use a Red or Orange Fly; if the day be clear, a light-coloured Fly, and a dark Fly for dark Waters; if the Water be of a wheyish complexion, then use a black or brown Fly. I will not say these Directions or Rules are without exceptions.

Fifthly, Let your Line for Fly-fishing be twice as long as your Rod, unless the River be cumbred with Wood.

Sixthly, For every sort of Fly, have several of the same differing in colour, to sute with the different complexions of several waters and weathers.

Seventhly, You must have a nimble eye, and an active hand to strike presently with the rising of the fish, or else he will be apt to spew out the Hook, finding his mistake.

Eighthly, Let your Fly fall first into the Water; for if your Line fall first, it scares the fish, and therefore you must draw again and cast.

Ninthly, When you angle in slow Rivers or still places with your Artificial Fly, cast it over cross the River, and let it sink a little in the water, and draw it gently back again, so as you raise no Circles, nor break the Water; and let the Fly float gently with the Current, and hereby you will find excellent sport.

Lastly, Take notice that your Salmon-flies must be made with their Wings standing one behind the other, whether two or four, He delights in the finest gawdiest colours you can choose, in the Wings chiefly, which must be long, and so must the Tail.

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Of Ground Angling.

IF you fish under the Water for a Trout, it must be without a Float, onely with a Plumb of Lead, or a Bullet, which is better, because it will fowl on the ground. And this way of fishing is very good in cold weather, when the Fish swim very low: you must place this Bullet about nine Inches from the baited Hook; your Top must be very gentle, that the Fish may more easily run away with the Bait, and not be scared with the stifness of the Rod. You must not strike as soon as you feel the Fish bite, but slack your Line a little, that he may the better swallow the Bait and Hook. When you strike do it gently, for the least matter does it.

Let your Tackle be fine and slender, for that is better than your big and strong Lines, which serve onely to fright the Fish.

You will find it a better way of Angling to do it without Float or Lead, onely making use of a Garden-worm, drawing it up and down the Stream; by which you will take more Trouts than any other way, especially if it be in a clear day. The Morning and Evening are the chiefest seasons for the Ground-Line for Trout: but if the day prove Cloudy, or the Water muddy, you may Angle at Ground all the day.

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Of Night-Angling.

GReat Fish (especially Trouts) are like Bucks, wary and circumspect in their self-preservation, and know the seasons most fit for them to feed without danger; and that is the Night, as they suppose, thinking then they may most securely range abroad.

In your Night-angling take two great Gardenworms of an equal length, and place them on your Hook; then cast them a good distance, and draw them to you again upon the superficies of the Water, not suffering them to sink; to which end you must not use a Plummet. You may easily hear the Fish rise, and therefore give him some time to swallow your Bait, then strike him gently. If he will not take it at the top, sink your Bait by adding some Lead, and order your self as at Day-angling on the Ground.

I have frequently experienced it, that the best Trouts bite in the Night, rising most commonly in the still Deeps, but unusually in the Streams.

Instead of these Garden-worms you may use a black Snail, or a piece of Velvet in its likeness: this is a most excellent Night-bait for a Trout, and nothing like the black Snail for a Chub in the Morning early.

You may bait your Hook with a Minnow for a Trout thus: put your Hook through the point of his lower Chap, and draw it through; then put your Hook in at his Mouth, and bring the point to his Tail; then draw your Line straight, and it will bring him into a round compass: But be sure you so order his Mouth that the Water get not in.

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What times are seasonable, and what unseasonable to Angle in.

CAlm and clear weather is very good to angle in; but cool cloudy weather in Summer is best; but it must not be so boisterously windy as that you cannot guide your Tackle. The cooler the weather is in hottest Months, the better it is: and if a sudden violent shour hath disturbed and muddied the River, then is your time to angle in the Stream at the ground with a red Worm.

Likewise a little before the Fish spawn is a very good time for Angling; for then their Bellies being full, they come into sandy Fords, and there rub their Bellies to loosen them, at which time they will bite very freely.

If you intend to fish for Carp and Tench, you must commence your sport early in the Morning, fishing from Sun-rising till eight of the Clock, and from four in the Afternoon till Night; and in hot Months till it be very late.

In the heat of Summer Carps will shew themselves on the very Rim of the water; at which time, if you fish with a Lob-worm as you do with a Fly natural, you will have excellent sport, especially if it be among Reeds.

In March, April, September, and all the Winter, (in which season Fish swim deep very near the Ground) I say, in those Months it is best fishing in a clear serene warm day, for then they bite fastest: But all the Summer-time Mornings, Evenings, and cool cloudy weather are the best times for Angling.

Here note, that by experience you will find that Fish rise best at the Fly after a shour of Rain that have [Page] onely beaten the Gnats and Flies into the River without muddying them. The proper Moneths and times of the day for the Fly, are March, April, May, and the beginning of June; in which Months let your times be in the Morning about nine, and between three and four in the Afternoon. A warm Evening is very seasonable, if the Gnats play much.

After a clear Moon shiny-night, if the day succeeding prove cloudy, it is a very good time for Angling; for, having abstained from food all the night, (for they will not stir for fear in bright nights) the next day they become hungry and eager, and the gloominess of the day makes them bite boldly.

At the opening of Sluces or Mill-dams go along with the course of the water, and you will find Trouts and other fish will then come out to seek for what food the water brings down with it.

Having shewn you what seasons are most proper and profitable to Angle in, I will demonstrate to you such as are not.

And First, In the extremity of Heat, when the Earth is parched with Drought, there is little sport to be obtained, especially in muddy or clear shallow Rivers.

Secondly, In the Winter or Spring-time, when there happeneth any hoary Frost, then will not the fish bite kindly all that day, unless it be in the Evening, and if that prove serene and pleasant: but it is not convenient to fish at any time when the Wind bloweth so high that you cannot manage your Tools to advantage.

Thirdly, Sheep-shearing time is an an Enemy to the Angler, for then the Fish glut themselves with what is washt off the Sheep, and will scarcely bite till that season be over. Likewise sharp East and North nipping-winds do very much prejudice the Anglers Recreation: neither is it good to fish immediately after [Page] Spawning-time; for at that time their appetite is much abated.

It is a very strange thing to consider the natural instinct in Fish in foreknowing the approach of a showr of Rain; for I have tried, that upon the rise of a Gloud that threatned a sudden Showr, they would not bite; from which observation I have often sav'd my self from being wet to the Skin.

Lastly, If the preceding night prove dark and cloudy, the succeeding day will prove ineffectual for fishing, unless for small fish; for at such times the great ones prey abroad for the lesser, who, by instinct knowing the danger, hide themselves till the Morning; and having fasted all night become then very hungry, whilst the great ones having gorg'd themselves lie absconded all the day long.

The next thing we shall insist on, is the way of taking several sorts of fish (as they are here alphabetically set down) with several proper Baits according to the best of experiences.

Of the BARBEL.

THE Barbel is so called by reason of the Barb which is under his Nose or Chaps. He is a leather-mouth'd-fish, that is, such a one as will not break his hold when hook d; but will frequently break, if big, both Rod and Line.

They swim together in great Shoals, and are at worst in April, though not very good at any time.

The places where he loves most to resort, are where Weeds grow, or in a gravelly rising ground, wherein he will dig and root like a Hog with his Nose: not [Page] but that he frequents the strongest swifts of water sometimes, as deep Bridges or Wears, where he will so settle himself among the Piles and hollow places, or amongst Moss or Weeds, that let the Water be never so swift, he will remain immoveable. This is his custome in the Summer-time; after which times he retires into deep waters and there helps the Female to dig a hole in the Sand for her to hide her Spawn from being devoured by other Fish.

This Fish is of a delicate Cast and handsome shape, with small Scales placed after a most curious manner; and as his shape is curious so is his palate, for he will not eat any thing but what is clean; and therefore if you intend to make any sport with him your Bait must be very well scowred. The best for him is a Lobworm, at which he will bite boldly, if you bait your ground the night before with big worms cut in pieces. For him you can never bait the Ground too much, nor can you fish for him too early or too late.

Gentles also are a very good Bait for him, if green; and so is Cheese made tough by keeping it in a wet Linnen Bag a day or two: This Cheese steeped in clarified Honey, and the Ground where you intend to fish baited therewith, will give you an opportunity to catch store enough of Barbels, if there be any thereabout. You may do well to bait your Hook with Cheese that is sost, and Sheeps-tallow wrought into a Paste: but there is no bait like the well-scowred Lob-worm, or Cheese steeped in Honey an hour or two.

When you fish for this Barbel, let your Rod and Line be both loug and strong; on your Line let there be a running Plummet, that is a Bullet with a hole throw the middle, let a knot or little bit of Lead be placed a Foot or more above your Hook, to keep your Bullet from falling down on it: so your Worm [Page] lay at the bottom where they always bite, and when he takes your bait the Plummet will lye and not check the fish, and you may know by the bending of the top of your Rod when he bites, and likewise feel him with your hand make a strong snatch, then strike and you rarely fail, if you play him well and tire him; for as he is very subtile, so is he extraordinary strong and dogged to be dealt withal, and will so struggle, that if you manage him not dextrously, he will break your Line.

His best time of biting is about nine of the Clock, and the chiefest time of fishing for him is at the latter end of May, June, July, and the beginning of August.

Of the BREAM.

THere are two sorts of Breams, the one a fresh and the other a salt water-Fish, yet neither differ much in shape, nature, or taste.

I shall onely speak of the fresh-water Bream, which at full growth is a large and stately Fish, and breeds either in Ponds or Rivers; but chiefly delights in the former, which if he likes, he will not onely grow exceeding fat, but will fill the Pond with his issue, even to the starving of the other Fish.

As for his shape, it is very broad, and thick scaled very excellently, with a forked Tail; his Eyes are large, but he hath a very little sucking Mouth, disproportionate to his Body.

The flesh of this Fish is accounted more pleasant than wholesome by some: but as for my part, I am of the judgement of the French, who have a great estimation for it; and if you will but taste his Belly or Head, you will say it is most excellent food.

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The Bream spawneth in June, or the beginning of July, and is easily taken; for after one or two gentle turns he will fall upon his side, and so you may draw him to Land with ease. The best time of Angling for him, is from St. James-tide till Bartholomew-tide; for having had all the Summers food, they are exceeding fat.

The Bream is a great lover of red Worms, especially such as are to be found at the root of a great Dock, and lie wrapt up in a round clue; also he loves Paste, Flag-worms, Wasps, green Flies, Butter-flies, and a Grass-hopper with his Legs cut off.

The way of taking Breams is thus: First bait the ground (where you know they resort) with a convenient quantity of sweet-ground Barley-malt, boyled but a little while, and strained when it is cold: go with it to the place about nine a Clock at night, then take your Malt, and squeezing it between your Hands, throw it into the River, and it will sink: If the stream run hard, cast in your squeezed Balls a little above the place you intend to angle in. Having thus baited your ground, in the Morning bait your Hook with the greatest red Worm you can get; you may find them in Gardens or Chalky Commons after a showre of Rain; of which you must store your self beforehand, keeping them a Month at least in dry Moss, changing the Moss every three daies. Having baited your hook so that the worm may crawl to and fro, for the better inticing of the Fish to bite without suspition, observe where your fish play most and stay longest, which commonly is in the broadest, deepest and stillest part of the River generally in deep and still back Waters: then plumb your ground, and fish within half an Inch of it; for although you shall see some Breams play on the top of the Water, yet these are but the Sentinels for them beneath.

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You may have three or four Rods out at a time stuck in the Bank-side, and let them be long, the Floats Swan or Goose-quills, which must be sunk with Lead, the tops bearing above water about half an Inch. Let your Rods be cast in one above the other about a yard and a half distant, and then withdraw your self from the Bank so far that you can perceive nothing but the top of the Float; and when you perceive it sink, then creep to the Water-side, and give it as much Line as you can: if it be a Carp or bream, they will run to the other side; then strike gently, and hold your Rod at a bent a little while, but do not pull, for then you spoil all; but you must first tire them before you can land them, being very shie. Of the two, the Carp is the worst, being more brisk and strong.

Here take notice by the way, if Pike or Pearch be thereabout, it will be but a folly to think of killing Carp or Bream; and therefore you must remove those obstacles, by fishing them out first. And to the intent you may know whether there be those Fish of Prey thereabout, take a small Bleak or Gudgeon, and bait it, setting it alive among your Rods, two foot deep from your Float, with a little red Worm at the point of your Hook: if a Pike be there, he will certainly snap at it.

Of the BLEAK.

THE Bleak is an eager fish, and is caught with all sorts of Worms bred on Trees or Plants, also with Flies, Paste, Sheeps-bloud, &c You may angle for them with half a score Hooks at once, if you can fasten them all on. Also in an Evening the Bleak will take the natural or artificial Fly.

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If it be a warm clear day, there is no Bait so good for the Bleak as a small Fly at the top of the water, which they will take at any time of the day, but especially in the evening: there is no fish that yields better sport for a young Angler than this, for they are so eager that they will leap out of the water at the Bait.

If the day be cold and cloudy, Gentles or Cadice are best about two foot under water.

This same Bleak by some is called a Fresh-watersprat, or River-swallow, by reason of his continual motion.

Some would have him called Bleak from the whitish colour, and that is onely under his Belly, for his Back is of a pleasant Sea-green.

There is another way of taking Bleaks, by whipping them in a Boat or on a Bank-side in swift Water in a Summers evening, with a Hazel-top about five or six foot long, and a Line twice the length of the Rod; but the best way is with a Drabble that is tie eight or ten small Hooks along a Line two Inches above one another the biggest Hook the lowermost, by which you may sometimes take a better Fish, and bait them with Gentles, Flies, or small red Worms, by which means you may take half a dozen or more at one time.

Of the BULL-HEAD, or MILLER'S-THUMB.

THE Bull-head is a Fish which hath a broad Head and wide Mouth, with two broad Fins near his Eyes, and two Fins under his Belly: instead of his Teeth his rough Lips assist him in nibbing at the bait. He hath Fins also on his Back, and one below the Vent; and his Tail is round, his Body being all over [Page] covered with whitish, blackish, and brownish spots.

They begin to spawn about April, and are full of Spawn all the Summer-season. The Bull-head's common habitation is in Holes, or among Stones in clear Water in Summer; but in the Winter he takes up his quarters with the Eel in the Mud: So doth the Loach and Minnow; or we cannot guess otherwise where their Winter-abode should be.

He is easily taken in the Summer, for he is lazie and simple. You may see him in hot weather lie Sunning himself on a flat Stone or gravelly Ground, at which time you may put your Hook (which must be baited with a small Worm) very near the Mouth, at which he seldom refuseth to bite, so that the veriest bungling Angler may take him.

He is an excellent fish for tast, but of so ill a shape, that many women care not for dressing him, he so much resembles a Toad.

Of the CHEVIN.

THE Chevin spawneth in March, and is a very strong (yet unactive) fish, yielding in a very little time after he is struck. The larger he is, the quieter he is taken.

As for his food, he loveth all sorts of Worms and Flies, also Cheese, Grain, black Worms, slitting their Bellies that the white may appear: he loveth to have his Bait large, and variety of Baits at one Hook. He delights very much in the Pith that grows in the bone of an Ox-back, os which you must be careful in taking off the tough outward Skin, without breaking the tender inward Skin

Early in the Morning angle for your Chevin with Snails; but choose some other Bait for him in the [Page] heat of the day, for then he will not bite at them. In the Afternoon fish for him at Ground or Flie. There is no Fly he loveth better than a great Moth with a great head, whose Body is yellow, with whitish Wings; which is to be found commonly in Gardens about the Evening. He will not stick sometimes to snap at a Lamprey.

Of the CHAR.

I Could never read nor hear that the Char was taken any where but in a Mere in Lancashire, called Winander-mere, the largest, according to report, that is in the Kingdom of England, being ten miles in length, and as smooth as a Bowling-green at the bottom.

This Char is spotted like a Trout, and its dimension seldome exceeds seventeen Inches or a foot and half. This Fish is delicate food, having scarce a Bone but what is on the Back. Now since the place is so remote from London where these Chars are taken, I shall for bear to trouble our City-Angler with Rules and Directions how to angle for him, and pass to such Fish as are frequently found in every River here near adjacent.

Of the CHUB.

THis Fish hath several appellations; for he is called a Chub, a Chavender by the French, by some a Villian, by others a Cheven. As for my part, call him what you please, I like him not for these reasons: first, he is full of small forked Bones dispersed every where throughout his Body; next, he eats very waterish; and lastly, this Fish is unfirm, and (in my opinion) in a manner tasteless.

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Of all fish he is the best to enter a young Angler, for he is very easily taken: however give me leave to prescribe you some more Rules than what I have already shewn in the Angling for the Cheven, which is the same with the Chub or Chavender

You must find out some hole, where you shall have twenty or more of them together in a hot day floating almost on the very surface of the water: let your Rod be long and strong, and your Line not above a yard or two long, very strong, and an indifferent large Hook; then bait your Hook with a Grashopper, bob your Grashopper up and down one the top of the water, and if there be any Chub near he will rise; but so abscond your self that you may not be seen, for he is a very fearful fish, and therefore the least shadow will make him sink to the bottom of the water, yet he will rise again suddainly; this is called Bobing.

Having baited your Hook drop it gently some two foot before that Chub you have elected by your eye to be the best and fairest, and he will instantly bite greedily thereat, and be held so fast by reason of his Leather-mouth, that he can seldom break his hold: and therefore you may do well to give him play enough, and so tire him; otherwise you may endanger your Line.

If you cannot find a Grashopper, then bait your Hook with any kind of Fly or Worm, as I said before, as Dors, Beetles, Bobs, Cod or Case-worms.

When you fish for the Chub with a Fly, Grashopper, or Beetle, it must be at the top of the water; if with other baits, underneath.

In March and April angle for your Chub with Worms; in May, June, and July, with Flies, Snails, or Cherries. Where note he will rarely refuse a Grashopper on the top of a swift Stream, nor at the bottom [Page] the young Humble-bee. In August, September, &c. make use of a Paste made of Parmisan, or Holland cheese pounded with Saffron in a Mortar, adding thereunto a little Butter. Others make a Paste of Cheese and Turpentine for the Winter-season, at which time the Chub is in his prime; for then his forked Bones are either lost, or converted into a Gristle; and he is excellent meat baked.

In hot weather angle for him in the middle of the water, or near the top thereof; but in cold weather fish for him near the bottom.

To finish all other discourse of this Chub, Cheven, or Chavender, I shall only say that his Spawn is excellent; and if he be large, the Head, when the Throat is well washt, is the best part of the Fish.

Of the CARP.

IT is confess'd by all, that the Carp is the Queen of all Fresh-water-fish, being not only a good, but subtile fish and living longest of all fish (excepting the Ecl) out of his proper Element. Those that die soonest are Herrings, for salt-water; and for fresh-water, Trouts.

Carps are observed to breed several Months in one year; and for this reason you shall hardly ever take either Male or Female without Melt or Spawn. They breed ever more naturally in Ponds than in running water: in the latter very seldom or never; and where they breed, they breed innumerably.

He that intends to Angle for a Carp, must arm himself with a world of Patience, by reason of the extraordinary subtlety and policy of that Fish: They alwaies choose to lie in the deepest places either of Ponds or Rivers where is but a small running Stream. Next, you are to observe that the Carp will seldom [Page] bite in cold weather; and in hot weather you cannot be too early or too late at your sport: and if he bite, you need not fear his hold, for he is one of those leather-mouth'd-fish, who have their Teeth in their Throat.

When you angle for the Carp, your Rod and Line must be strong; and because he is so very wary, it is good to intice him by baiting the Ground with course Paste: In March he seldom resuseth the red Worm, the Cadice in June, nor the Grashopper in July, August, and September.

The Carp takes delight in Worms or sweet Pastes, of which there are great variety: the best are made up of Honey and Sugar, and ought to be thrown into your Water some hours before you intend to angle; or if you throw in your Paste made into small Pellets two or three days before, it will not be the worse, especially if you throw in also Chickens-guts, Garbage, or Bloud incorporated with Bran or Cow-dung.

You may make your Paste in this manner: Take a convenient quantity of Bean-flour, or any other Flour, and mingle it with the flesh of a Cat cut small; make up this Composition with Honey, and then beat them all together in a Mortar so long, till they are so tough as to hang upon a Hook without washing off. For the better effecting thereof, mingle therewith some whitish Wool; and if you would keep it all the year, add thereunto some Virgins-wax and clarified Honey.

If you fish with Gentles, anoint them with Honey and put them on your hook with a piece of Scarlet dipt in the like. This is the most approved way to deceive and captivate the subtile Carp. Honey and crums of White-bread mixt together is a very good Paste for a Carp.

An approved way how to take Carp in a muddy Pond. Vide Chap. Of the Tench.

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Of the DACE and DARE.

THE Dace, Dare and Roach, are much of a kind, both in manner of feeding, cunning, goodness and commonly in size

The Dace or Dare will bite at any Fly, but especially at the Stone-cadice fly or May fly, the latter end of April and the begining or most part of May is a most excellent bait, floating on the top of the water; which you may gather great quantities of from the Reeds and Sedge by the water side, or from Hawthorne bushes which grow near the bank of a shallow Gravel-stream, on which they very much delight to hang: also at Ant-flies, of which the blackish is the best, which are found in Mole-hills about the Months of June, July, August and September. The way of preserving them for your use is, to put them alive into a Glass-bottle, having first laid therein some of the moist Earth from whence you gatherd them, with some of the Roots of the Grass of the said Hillock: having laid your Ant-flies in gently without premdicing their Wings, lay a clod of Earth over it: thus you may keep them a Month, if you bruise them not. If you would keep them longer, put them into a large Rundlet, having first wash'd the inside with water and Honey: having thus kept them three Months, they are an incomparable Bait in any Stream and clear Water, either for Dace, Dare or Roach, and are good also for a Chavender, fishing within a handful from the bottom.

The best time for making use of the Ant-flie, is when they swarm, and that is generally about the latter end of July, and begining of August: they will cover a Tree or Bush with their multitude, and then if you [Page] make use of them, you may load your self with Roach or Dace in a small time.

In a warm day he rarely refuseth a fly at the top of the water: but remember that when you fish under water for him, it is best to be within an handful or something more of the ground.

If you would fish for Dace or Dare in winter, then about Alhallontide, where ever you see Heath or Sandy grounds ploughing up, follow the Plough, and you will find a white worm with a red head, as big as the top of a mans little finger. You may know where most of them are, by the number of Crows and Rooks which sit on the plowed land. The worm is very soft and is by some termed a Grub, which is nothing but the Spawn of a Beetle. Gather what quantity you think fit, and put them into a Vessel with some of the Earth from whence they were taken, and you may keep them all the Winter.

Lastly the young brood of Wasps and Bees having their heads dipt in Blood, are an excellent bait for Dace or Dare.

Of the EEL.

I Shall not trouble you with variety of discourses concerning the being of an Eel, whether they breed by some Generation, or Corruption as Worms or by certain Glutinous dew drops, which falling in May and June on the Banks of some Ponds or Rivers; are by the heat of the Sun turned into Eels: and these are by some called Yelvers, of which I have seen Cakes made, and have eaten thereof when fried, with much satisfaction. I say waving away all Discourses of this nature, I shall onely tell you that some have differented Eels into four sorts chiefly: namely, the Silver-Eel, [Page] a Greenish Eel, (which is called a Creg;) a blackish Eel, with a broad flat head; and lastly an Eel with reddish Fins.

I shall onely speak of the first, which is the Silver Eel. This Eel is generally believed to have its being from Generation, but not by spawning, but the young coming from the Female alive, and no bigger than a small Needle.

This Eel may be caught with several sorts of Baits but principally with powder'd Beef. A Garden-worm or Lob, or a Minnow, or Hen's-gut, or Garbage of Fish, is a very good bait: but some prefer a Pride, which others call a Lamprey, beyond any yet named.

As Eels abscond themselves in Winter, taking up their constant residence in the Mud, without stirring out for six Moneths; so in the Summer they take no delight to be abroad in the day, and therefore the most proper time to take them is in the night, with any of those Baits aforesaid, fastning your Line to the Bank-side with your Laying-hooks in the water. Or you may throw in a Line with good store of Hooks baited, and plumb'd with a Float to discover where the Line lieth, that in the Morning you may take it up with your Drag-hook.

There is another way of taking Eels, and that is by Sniggling. This Sniggling is nothing else but taking in the day-time a strong Line and Hook baited with a Lob or Garden-worm, and marking such Holes and places where the Eels use to abscond themselves in the day-time near Wears, Mills, or Flood-gates, and gently by the help of a Stick putting your bait into such holes where you imagine Eels are: and if there be any, you shall be sure to have a bite; but then have a care you pull not too hard, lest you spoil all. Here note, that the Top of your Stick must [Page] be cleft, wherein you must put a strong Hook, but of a narrow compass; which Stick must guide the Bait into the Hole where the Eel is, by which means, if your Tackling hold, you may get as large Eels as any are in the River, Mill-pond, or Flood-gate, &c. And as this way of fishing is called Sniggling, so it is called Broggling for Eels.

Bobbing fot Eels is done after another manner: that is, Take very large Lobs, scowr them well, and with a Needle run some strong-twisted Silk through them from end to end; take so many as that you may wrap them about a board a dozen times at least, then tie them fast with the two ends of the Silk, that they may hang in so many Hanks; then fasten all to a strong Cord, and about a handful and a half above the Worms fasten a Plumb of three quarters of a pound in weight, and fasten your Cord to a strong Pole: having so done, fish in muddy Water, and you will feel the Eels tug lustily at them. When you think they have swallowed them as far as they can, gently draw up your Line, till you have brought your Eels to the top of the water, and then bring them ashore as fast as you can. The Gentleman (and an experienced Angler) from whom I received this Instruction, told me, he hath taken six or seven large Eels at a time this very way.

There is another way also for taking of Eels (though it be somewhat laborious, and for that reason is best to be made use of in cold weather) and that is by an Instrument called an Eel-spear: it is made for the most part with three Forks or Teeth, jagged on the sides; but those are better that have four. This you are to strike into the Mud at the bottom of the River; and if you chance to light where they lie, you need not fear taking them if your Instrument be good.

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If you would take verv large Eels indeed, bait your Night-hooks with small Roaches, und let the Hooks lie in the Mouth of the Fish.

Of the FLOUNDER.

I shall not go about to tell you the nature of a Flounder, or give you his description, since he is a Fish so well known to every one.

In April, May, June and July, you may fish for the Flounder all day long, either in a swift Stream or in the still Deep, but best in the Stream. Your most proper Baits are all sorts of red Worms, Wasps and Gentles.

Of the GRAILING.

WHen you angle for the Grailing, you must head your Hook upon the Shank with a very slender narrow plate of Lead, and let it be slenderest at the bent of the Hook, that the Bait which must be a large Grashoper, may with more facility come over it: At the point let there be a Cad bait, and keep the bait in continual Motion; and forget not to pull off the Grashopper's Wings which are uppermost.

In the Months of March and April, there is an excellent Bait for the Grailing, which is called a Tagtail: This worm is of a pale Flesh-colour, with a yellow Tag on his Tail, somewhat less then half an Inch long; which is to be found in Marled Grounds and Meadows in fair weather, but not to be seen in cold weather, or after a showre of Rain.

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Of the GUDGEON.

THe Gudgeon, though small, is a fish of so pleasant a taste, that in my opinion it is very little inferiour to the Smelt. I need not describe him, he is so well known.

He spawns three or four times in the Summer season. His feeding is much like the Barbel's, in sharp Streams and on Gravel, slighting all manner of Flies. He is easily taken with a small red Worm, fishing near the ground.

This Fish is Leather-mouthed, and will not easily be lost off the Hook when struck. You may fish for him with Float, your Hook being on the ground; or by hand with a running line on the ground, without either Cork or Float.

Wasps, Gentles, and Cad-baits are good baits for the Gudgeon, but the small Red worm the best; you may fish for them with two or three hooks at once and find very pleasant sport where they rise any thing large. When you Angle for them, stir up the Sand or Gravel with a long Pole, which will make them gather to that place, and bite faster and with more eagerness.

Of the GUINIAD.

I Cannot say much of this Fish, only that it is excellent food; and therefore I shall conclude my discourse of the Guiniad with a very strange observation; and that is, This Fish is not found any where but in a large Water called Pemble-Mere: but that which is most remarkable is this, That the River [Page] which runs by Chester hath its Head or. Fountain in Merionith shire and in its course runs through this Pemble-Mere, which abounds as much with Guiniads, as the River Dee doth with Salmon, of each both affording great plenty; and yet it was never known that any Salmon was ever caught in the Mere, nor ever any Guiniads taken in the River.

When Dee that in his course fain in her lap would lie,

Commixtion with her store, his stream she doth deny,

By his complexion prov'd, as he through her doth glide,

Her Wealth again from his she likewise doth divide:

Those white fish that in her do wondrously abound,

Are never seen in him; nor are his Salmons found

At any time in her; but as she him disdains,

So he again from her as wilfully abstains.

Draytons Polyolb. Song 9.

Of the LOACH.

THe Loach, though a small yet a dainty fish: his breeding and feeding is in little and clear swift Brooks or Rivulets; here and in sharp Streams Gravel is his usual food. He is small and slender, seldom exceeding three Inches in length: he is bearded like a Barbel, having two Fins at his sides, four at his Belly, and onely one at his Tail and is freckled with many black or brown spots.

This Loach is commonly full of Spawn, which is, with the flesh, a very grateful food to weak Stomacks affording great Nourishment. He is to be taken with a very small Worm neer the ground, for he delights to be neer the Gravel, and therefore is seldom seen on the top of the water.

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Of the MINNOW.

THe Minnow is a fish without Scales, and one of the least of the watry Inhabitants; but for excellency of meat he may (in my opinion) be compared to any fish of greatest value and largest size; and little things should not be despised. The Spawners are usually full of Spawn all the Summer long, for they breed often, as it is but necessary, being both Prey and Baits to other fish. They come into the Rivers generally about March and April, and there continue till the cold weather drive them into their Winter quarters again.

Of colour this fish is greenish, or wavy sky-coloured; his Belly is very white, but his Back is blackish. This Fish will bite sharply at a small Worm; and if you will trouble your self to catch enough of them you may make an excellent Tansie of them, cutting off their Heads and Tails, and frying them in Eggs, saucing them with Butter, Sugar and Verjuice.

Anglers use to find him oftner then they would: Deep places he seldom frequents. It is a Fish no way curious of his feeding, for any Bait pleaseth him if he can but swallow it, he will strain hard for what he cannot gorge. The chiefest food he loveth is a small red Worm, Wasps, or Cad-baits.

Of the POPE, or RUFF.

THis Fish with a double name is small, and seldome grows bigger than Gudgeon; in shape he is not unlike a Pearch, but esteemed better food, being of tast as pleasant and delightful as any fish whatever.

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The Ruff frequents the deepest running places in a Gravel River, the exact bottom of which being found by plumbing, and your Hooks being baited with small red or brandling Worms, (for I would have you fish with two or three) you will have incomparable sport as long as you desire.

The Ruff makes excellent sport with an unexperienced Angler, for he is a greedy biter; and they are in great Shoals together where the Water is deep, smooth, and calm. If you would catch a good round quantity, bait your ground with Earth, and angle for them with a small red Worm.

Of the PIKE.

THE Pike is a very long-liv'd creature, and if we may credit Sir Francis Bacon, or Gesner that famous Brutologist, he outlives all other Fish; which is pitty, he being as absolute a Tyrant of the Freshwaters, as the Salmon is, the King thereof.

The larger the Pike, the courser the food, the smaller being ever best; contrary to the nature of Eels, which improve their goodness by their bulk and age.

He is a melancholick Fish, because he never swims in Shoals, but rests himself alone; and he is as bold as any fish whatever, if we may believe Report, which informs us a Pike hath been known to fight with an Otter for a Carp he had taken, and was carrying out of the Water. Another bit a Mule by the Lip as he was drinking, and stuck thereunto so fast, that by that means the Owner of the Mule took him. Another bit a Maid by the Foot as she was washing. He will frequently devour his own kind unnaturally; from whence I suppose he may obtain the name of a Freshwater-wolf.

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As the Pike is in nature like the Hawk, a Bird of Prey, so he is like her in generation, neither of them breeding but once a year: and when the Pike spawns it is between February and March. The best Pikes are found in Rivers, the worst in Meres or Ponds.

His common Food is either Pickerel weed, Frogs, or what fish he can procure. This Pickerel-weed some say, both feeds and breeds them.

There are two ways of fishing for the Pike; first by the Ledger, secondly by the Walking-bait.

The Ledger-bait is fix'd in one certain place, whilst the Angler may be absent; and this must be a living Bait, either Fish or Frog. Of Fish the best are a Dace, Roach, or Pearch: for Frogs, the yellowest are the best. How to keep them alive on your Hook, your own ingenuity will inform you.

When you intend to use the Ledger-bait, if it be a Fish, stick your Hook through his upper Lip; and then fastning it to a strong Line at least twelve or fourteen yards in length, tie the other end of the Line either to some Stake in the ground, or to some bough of a Tree near the Pike's usual haunt or where you think 'tis like he may come. Then winde your Line on a sorked stick, (big enough to keep the bait from drawing it under water) all except about half yard or somewhat more; and your stick having a small celft at the end, fasten your Line therein; but so, that when the Pike comes, he may easily draw it forth, and have Line enough to go to his hold and pouch.

If your Bait be a Frog, put the Arming-wyre in at his Mouth, and out at his Gills; and then with a fine Needle and Silk sow the upper part of his Leg with one stitch onely to your Arming-wyre, or tie his Leg above the upper joynt to the Wyre; but as gently as you can, lest you hurt him.

I have seen excellent sport with living baits tied [Page] about the Bodies of two or three couple of Ducks, driven over a place where store of Pikes have frequented. I have observed the Pike to strike so violently at the living Bait, that being hung he hath drawn the Duck clear under water. The like may be done with such baits tied to bladders, suffering them to float down the River, whilst you mind your sport walking on its Banks.

The next way of Angling for a Pike is with a Trowl with a Winch to wind it up withal. As this Fish is very strong, so must your Tackle; and your Rod must not be very slender at top, where must be placed a Ring for your Line to run through. Your Line must be Silk two yards and a quarter next the Hook, which mast be double, and strongly armed with a Wyre about seven Inches: the rest of your Line may be strong Shoemakers-thread. Upon the shank of the Hook fasten some smooth Lead; and having placed your Hook in the Mouth of a Minnow, Dace, or Roach; with your Lead sink your Bait with his head downward. Having so done, cast your Bait up and down: if you feel him at the hook, give him length enough to run away with the Bait and pouch it; which when you think he hath done, strike him with a smart jerk, and so continue your sport with him as long as you shall think fit. Take likewise this next Direction from a friend that speaks not much different.

When you intend to Trowl, you may make choice either of Roach, Dace, Bleak, or Gudgeon to bait withal, (but for my own part I always prefer the Guogeon) which you must do thus: put your Arming-wyre in at the Mouth, and thrusting it along by the Back bring it out again at the Tail, and there faslen it with a Thread Having your Reel in your hand, and your Line fastned to your hook through a Ring at [Page] the top of your Rod, cast your bait into some likely place, and move it up and down in the water as you walk gently by the River-side: when you have a bite (which you may easily feel, for he will give a good tug) be sure to give him Line enough. You may let him lie almost a quarter of an hour before you strike; and then have a care you do it not too fiercely, lest you endanger your Tackle, and lose the Fish to boot.

If you fish at Snap, you must give him leave to run a little, then strike, striking the contrary way to which he runneth. For this way of Angling, a Spring hook is best; and your Tackle must be much stronger than that for the Trowl, because you must strike with greater force.

Here note, that a large Bait more invites the Pike to bite, but the lesser takes him more infallibly, either at Snap or Trowl.

If you fish with a dead bait for a Pike, this is a most excellent bait: Take a Minnow, Frog that is yellow, Dace, or Roach, and having dissolved Gum of Ivy in Oil of Spike, anoint your baith therewith, and cast it where Pikes frequent. Having lain a little while at bottom, draw it to the top, and so up the Stream, and you will quickly perceive a Pike follow it with much eagerness.

A Pike will bite at all baits, excepting the Fly, and bites best about three in the afternoon in clear water with a gentle gale, from the middle of Summer to the latter end of Autumm; he then bites best in still places or a gentle Stream: but in Winter he bites all the day long. In the latter end, and beginning of the Spring, he bites most eagerly early in the morning, and late in the evening

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Of the PEARCH.

THE Pearch is a fish that is hook-backt, somewhat bow'd like a Hog, and armed with stiff Gristles, and his sides with dry thick Scales. He is a bold biter, which appears by his daring to adventure on one of his own kind with more courage than the Pike by much.

Some say there are two sorts of Pearches, the one salt-water, and the other fresh: the first hath but one Fin on his Back, the latter two, which is more than most Fishes have.

He spawns but once a year, and that is in February or March, and seldome grows longer than two foot. His best time of biting is when the Spring is far spent, at which time you may take at one standing all that are in one hole, be they never so many.

His Baits are a Minnow, or little Frog; but a Worm called a Brandling is best, if well scoured. When he bites give him time enough, and that can hardly be too much.

The Pearch biteth well all the day long in cool cloudy weather; but chiefly from eight in the Morning till ten, and from three till almost six.

You may angle for him with Lob-worms well scoured, Bobs, Oak-worms, Gentles, Colewort-worms, Minnows, Dors, Wasps, and Cad-baits.

He will not bite at all the seasons of the year, especially in Winter, for then he is very abstemious; yet if it be warm he will bite then in the midst of the day; for in Winter all fish bite best about the heat of the day.

If you rove for a Pearch with a Minnow, (which of all baits yields the most delightful recreation to the [Page] Angler) it must be alive, sticking your Hook through his upper Lip or back Fin, and letting him swim about mid-water, or somewhat lower; for which purpose you must have an indifferent large Cork with a Quill on your Line.

I always make use of a good strong Silk-Line, and a good Hook arm'd with Wyre, so that if a Pike do come I may be provided for him, and have by this means taken several. I use also to carry a Tin-pot of about two quarts or three pints, in which to keep my Minnows or Gudgeons alive: the Lid of the Pot is full of little holes, so that I can give them fresh Water without opening it; which ought to be about every quarter of an hour, lest they die.

If you take a small Casting-net with you, you may at a cast or two take baits enough to serve you all day without farther trouble.

When you fish with a Frog, you must fasten the Hook through the skin of his Leg towards the upper part thereof.

The Pearch is none of the Leather-mouth'd sort of fishes; and therefore when he bites give him time enough to pouch his bait, lest when you think all sure, his hold break out, and you lose your fish and your patience too.

The best place to fish for Pearches is in the turning of the Water, or Edwing in a good Gravel Scoure, where you will not fail of them, and Ruffs before spoke of.

He that will take a Pearch must first take notice that this fish feeds well, and bites freely. Let the Angler over-night bait his ground with Lob-worms chopt in pieces; and in the morning let him come to the place, where he must first plumb his ground, then gage his Line and bait his hook with a red knotted worm, or a Minnow, which is better in my opinion: the hook [Page] must be put in at the back of the Minnow betwixt the fish and the skin, that the Minnow may swim up and down alive, being buoyed up with a Cork or Quill, that the Minnow may have liberty to swim a foot off the ground. Let these directions be carefully observed and followed, and the Angler need not fear the frustration of his expectations.

Of the RUD.

THE Rud hath a forked Tail, and is small of size: some say he is bred of the Roach and Bream, and is found in Ponds; in some they are in a manner innumerable.

There is little less difference between the Rud and Roach, than there is between the Herring and Pilchard, their shape being much alike, onely differing in bulk or bigness. Since the Rud is but a Bastard-Roach, I shall speak no more on him, but discourse of the genuine Roach onely.

Of the ROACH.

THE Roach is not looked on as any delicate Fish at all; if there be any thing prizable, it is his Spawn.

The Roach is a very silly fish, being every whit as simple as the Carp is crafty. They are more to be esteemed which are found in Rivers than in Ponds, although those that breed in the latter are of a much larger size; yet the Thames below Bridge abounds with very large fat Roach, such as I may confidently affirm exceed in magnitude all others either in Ponds or Rivers.

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The Roach is a Leather-mouth'd-fish, having his Teeth (as I said before) in his Throat, as all Leather-mouth'd Fish have.

In April the Cads or Worms are proper Baits to angle for Roaches; in Summer fish for them with small white Snails or Flies: but note, they must be under water, for he will not bite at the top. Or, take a May-fly, and with a Plumb sink it where you imagine Roaches lie, whether in deep water, or near the Posts and Piles either or Bridge or Wear having so done, do not hastily, but gently pull your Fly up, and you will see the Roach (if any there) pu sue and take it near the rim of the water lest by flight it should escape.

In Autumn you may fish for them with Paste onely made of the crums of sine White-bread, moulded with a little water and the labour of your hands into a tough Paste, colour'd not very deep with Red-Lead, with which you may mix a little sine Cotten or Lint, and a little Butter; these last will make it hold on and not wash off your Hook. With which you must fish with much circumspection, or you lose your bait. In like manner in Winter you may angle for Roach with Paste; but Gentles are then the better bait.

Take these next Observations experimentally tried by some of us, viz. There is another excellent bait either so: Winter or Summer, and that is this: Take an handful of well dried Malt, and put it into a Dish of Water, and then having grubbed and washed it betwixt our hands till it be clean and free from Husks, put that water from it, and having put it into a little fresh water, set it over a gentle Fire, and let it boil till it be pretty fest; then pour the Water from it, and with a sharp Knife, turning the sprout-end of the Corn upward, take off the back-part of the Husk with the point of your Knife, leaving a kind of inward [Page] Husk on the Corn, or else you spoil all: then cut off a little of the sprout-end, that the white may appear, and also a very little of the other end for the Hook to enter. When you make use of this bait, cast now and then a little of it into the water; and then, if your Hook be small and good, you will find it an excellent bait either for Roach or Dace.

Another good bait is the young brood of Wasps or Bees, if you dip their Heads in Blood. So is the thick blood of a Sheep being half dried on a Trencher, and then cut into such small pieces as will best fit your Hook: a little Salt will keep it from turning black, and make it the better.

Or you may take a handful or two of the largest and best Wheat you can get, boil it in a little Milk till it be soft, then fry it gently with Honey and a little beaten Saffron dissolved in Milk.

The Roach spawns about the middle of May; and the general baits by which he is caught are these: small white Snails, Bobs, Cad-baits, Sheeps blood, all sorts of Worms, Gnats, Wasps, Paste, and Cherries.

The way of fishing for Roach at London-Bridge is after this manner: In the Moneths of June, and July, there is great resort of those Fish to that place, where those that make a trade of it take a strong Cord, at the end whereof is fastned a three-pound weight; a foot above the Lead they fasten a Packthread of twelve foot long to the Cord, and unto the Packthread at convenient distances they add a dozen strong Links of Hair with Roach-Hooks at them, baited with a white Snail of Perriwinkle; then holding the Cord in their Hands, the biting of the Fish draweth the Packthread, and the Packthread the Cord, which admonisheth them them what to do: whereby sometimes they draw up half a dozen, sometimes less, but commonly two or three at one draught.

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Of the STICKLEBAG.

THis fish is small, prickly, and without Scales and not worth the consideration, but that he is an excellent bait for Trouts, especially if his Tail on the Hook be turned round, at which a Trout will bite more eagerly than at Penk, Roach, or Minnow. The Loach is every whit as good a bait as the Sticklebag, provided you place either aright on the Hook. To the intent you may do it, take this observation: the nimble turning of the Penk, Minnow, Loach, or Sticklebag, is the perfection of that sort of fishing. That you may attain thereunto, note, that you must put your Hook into the Mouth of any the aforesaid Baits, and out at his Tail tying him fast with white thread a little above it, in such manner that he may turn: after this sow up his mouth, and your design is accomplished. This way of baiting is very tempting for large Trouts, and seldome fails the Angler's expectation. This fish in some places is called a Banstickle.

Of the SALMON.

THE Salmons evermore breed in Rivers that are not brackish, yet discharge themselves into the Sea, and spawn commonly in August, which become Samlets in the Spring following. The Melter and Spawner having both performed their natural duty, they then betake themselves to the Sea. I have known that when they have been obstructed in their passage, they have grown so impatient, that, clapping their Tails to their Mouths, with a sudden spring they have leapt clear over Wear, or any other obstacle [Page] which stood in their way: Some having leapt short, have been taken by that means. If they are so obstructed that they cannot find their way to the Sea, they become sick, lean, and pine away, and die in two years. If they spawn in the mean time, from thence proceeds a small Salmon called a Skegger, which will never grow great. It is the Sea that makes them grow big; but it is the fresh Rivers that makes them grow fat; and so much the farther they are from the Sea up in the River, the fatter they grow, and the better their food.

From a Samlet (which is but little bigger than a Minnow) he grows to be a Salmon in as short time as a Goslin will grow to be a Goose.

A Salmon biteth best at three of the clock in the Afternoon, in the Moneths of May, June, July, and August, if the water be clear, and some little breeze of Wind stirring, especially if the Wind bloweth against the Stream, and near the Sea.

Where note, that he hath not his constant residence, like a Trout, but removes often, coveting to be as near the Spring-head as he may, swimming generally in the deepest and broadest parts of the River near the ground; and he is caught like a Trout, with Worm, Fly, or Minnow. The Garden-worm is an Excellent bait for the Salmon, if it be well scoured, and kept in Moss about twenty days, after which time those Worms will be very clear, tough and lively.

There is a way of fishing for Salmon with a Ring of Wyre on the top of the Rod, through which the Line may run to what length is thought convenient, having a Wheel also near the hand.

I have been told that there is no bait more attractive of and eagerly pursued by the Salmon and most other fish, than Lob-worms scented with the Oil of Ivy-berries, [Page] or the Oil of Polypodie of the Oak mixt with Turpentine; nay, Assa Foetida they say is incomparably good.

The Artificial Fly is a good bait for a Salmon; but you must then use a Trowl as for the Pike, he being a strong fish. As the Salmon is a large fish, to must your Flies be larger than for any other, with Wings and Tails very long.

You shall observe, when you strike him, that he will plunge and bounce, but doth not usually endeavour to run to the length of the Line, as the Trout will do; and therefore there is less danger of breaking your Line.

If you will angle for Salmon at ground, then take three or four Garden-worms well scoured, and put them on your Hook at once, and fish with them in the same manner as you do for Trouts.

Be sure to give the Salmon (as well as all other fish) time to go gorge the Bait, and be not over-hasty, unless your bait be so tender it will not endure nibbling at. Much more may be said of Salmon-fishing, which I shall pass by, leaving the rest to your own practice and observation.

Of the TENCH.

I Shall now discover an approved way how to take Tench and Carp in a muddy Pond: but know, I do not make publick this following Secret, to teach Knaves how to rob Gentlemens Ponds, but that the proper Owners may be able upon cases of necessity to supply themselves with Fish, without being put to so much trouble and charge as to sue their Ponds. But to the purpose. In the first place you must provide your self with a very good large Casting-net, well [Page] leaded; let not the Meshes from the Crown to a full yard and a half be too small; for then if the Pond be any thing of a depth, the fish will strike away before the Net comes to the ground: the whole Net ought to have a large Mesh, well leaded, and deep Tucked.

The second thing to be done is, to make the place clean from Stakes and Bushes, and try with the Net before you intend for the sport: if your Net happen to hang, then all your pains will prove ineffectual; therefore you must be sure before you cast in your Net that you clear and cleanse the place very well twice or thrice with a Rake. Then take a quarter of a peck of Wheat, baking it well in an Oven, putting in near three quarts of Water; when it is well baked, take five pints of Blood, and incorporate the Wheat and Blood together, adding thereto as much Bran as is sufficient to make a Paste thereof: and that it may the better hold together, put some (lay to it; after this, knead it well together with a quart of Lob worms chopt in pieces, and worked into Paste as aforesaid: then roll it into balls as big as a Goose-egg, and throw it into the Pond within the circumference of your Casting-net; and between whiles throw in some Grains; and when you think the fish have found out the Baiting-place, then come in the close of the Evening (having baited very early in the Morning) and cast your Net over the baited-place: then take a long pole with a large Fork made for the purpose, and stir all about the Net; for the Carps and Tench are struck up beyond their Eyes in Mud, and stand exactly upon their Heads: let the Net lie near an half hour, still stirring with your Pole, if the place be not too deep: when you have covered the Fish, you may go into the Pond, and take them out with your hands; but if the water be deep, when you find the Carps begin to stir, [Page] (for they cannot stand long on their heads in the Mud) then lift up the Crown of your Net bolt upright with a long Staff, that so the fish may play into the Tuck of the Net.

Here note, that should you draw up your Net suddenly after you have cast it in, it is an hundred pound to a penny whether you should take one Carp or Tench; but letting the Net lie, the Mud will choak them if they remove not out of it.

Now here I cannot omit a very pleasant story in my opinion: A Gentleman having special Carps in his pond, but not knowing how to take one of them, unless it were by chance with Hook and Line; I desired him that we might taste of his Carps, and modestly told him, a brace of them would serve our turns: He answered, I might freely have them, if I knew how to catch them. Hereupon I prepared some ingredients, and having baited a convenient place very early in the Morning, at the dusk of the Evening we came with a Casting-net, and at the first throw covered a great quantity of fish, as hereafter will appear; but not one seem'd to stir a jot under the Net, being all struck into the Mud. Hereupon the Gentleman fell a laughing heartily, saying, Sir, If I had no other provision to trust to but what fish you shall catch this night, I believe I shall go supperless to Bed. Hearing him say so, I desired that he would have a little patience, for the fish were asleep, and I was as yet loath to disturb them; but half an hour hence, if he would stay so long, I should make bold to awake them with a witness: So the Gentleman having smoaked a pipe of Tobacco a Carp began to play in the Net; and after this in a very little time a great many more began to dance and skip: whereupon I lifted up the Crown, that they might play in the Tuck; and when I thought they were all got out of the Mud I began to draw, [Page] and at one draught drew up in the Net Seventy odd Carps, great and small, to the admiration and great satisfaction of the Owner and the rest of the company, having in all their life-time not seen the like before.

The Tench hath but small Scales, (and they smooth) yet very large Fins, with a red Circle about his Eyes, and a little Barb hanging at each corner of his Mouth.

The Slime of a Tench is very medicinal to wounded Fishes; and therefore he is commonly called the Fishes Physitian.

The Pike is so sensible of his vertue, that he will not injure the Tench, though he will seize on any other fish of his size that comes in his way: And when the Pike is sick or hurt, he applies himself to the Tench, and finds cure by rubbing himself against him.

The Tench hath a greater love for Ponds than clear Rivers, and delights himself amongst Weeds, and loves to feed in very foul Water; and yet his food is nourishing and pleasant.

The time of Angling for him is early and late, both morning and evening, in the moneths of June, July and August, or all night in the still parts of the River.

He is a great lover of large red Worms, and will bite most eagerly at them, if you first dip them in Tar. The Tench loves also all sorts of Paste made up with strong-sented Oyls, or with Tar, or a Paste made of brown Bread and Honey. He will bite also at a Cad-worm, a Lob worm, a Flag-worm, green Gentle, Cad-bait, Marsh-worm, or soft boyled Bread-grain.

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Of the TORCOTH.

THe Torcoth is a fish having a red Belly, but of what estimation I know not; for that, let the Welshmen speak, who best know him: for as I have heard he is only to be found in the Pool Lin-peris in Carnarvanshire. I only name him that you may know there is such a fish.

Of the TROUT.

IT is observed that the Trout comes in and goes out of season with the Stag and Buck, and Spawns about October or November: which is the more to be wondred at, because most other fish Spawn in warm weather, when the Sun by his heat hath adapted the Earth and Water making them fit for generation.

All the Winter, the Trout is Sick, Lean and unwholsome, and you shall frequently then find him Louzy. These Trout-lice are a small Worm with a big Head sticking close to his sides, and sucking moisture from him that gave them being: and he is not freed from them till the Spring or the begining of Summer, at which time his strength increaseth; and then he deserteth the still deep waters, and betakes himself to gravelly ground, against which he never leaves rubing till he hath cleansed himself of his Louziness; and then he delights to be in the sharp Streams and such as are swift, where he will lie in wait for Minnows and May-flies; at the latter end of which month he is in his prime, being better and fatter in that Month, especially at the latter end thereof, than in any other throughout the whole year.

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There are several sorts of Trouts highly prizable; as the Fordidge-Trout, the Amerly-Trout, the Bull-Trout in Northumberland, with many more which I shall forbear to mention, but only tell you what is generally observed; and that is, that the red and yellow Trouts are the best, and as'to the Sex, the Female is the best, having a less head and a deeper body then the Male. By their Hog-back you shall know that they are in season, with the like note for all other fish.

The Trout is usually caught with a Worm, Minnow or Fly natural or artificial. There are several sorts of Worms which are baits for the Angler; the Earth-worm, the Dug-worm, the Maggot or Gentle; but for the Trout, the Lob-worm and Brandling are the best, or Squirril-tail, having a red head, streakt down the back, and a broad Tail. The Brandling is found commonly in an old Dung-hill, Cow-dung, Hogs-dung, or Tanners-bark. Here note, that whatever Worms you fish withal are the better for keeping; which must be in an Earthen pot with Moss, which you must change often in Summer, that is, once in three or four daies, and in twice as long time in Winter.

When you fish for a Trout by hand on the ground, take a Lob-worm and clap your Hook into him a little above the middle, and out again a little below the same; then draw your Worm above the arming of your Hook, making your first entrance at the Tail end, that the point of the Hook may come out at the Head-end.

When you fish with a Minnow, take the whitest and middle-sized, for those are the best, and place him so on your Hook, that he may turn round when he is drawn against the Stream.

The best Instructions (for putting the Minnow on the Hook) which I can lay down are these: Put your [Page] Hook in at his Mouth and out at his Gill, drawing it through about three Inches; then put the Hook again into his Mouth, and let the point and beard come out at his Tail; then the Hook and his Tail you must tie about with a fine white Thread, and let the body of the Minnow be almost straight on the Hook: then try against the Stream whether it will turn; where note, it cannot turn too fast. If you want a Minnow, a small Loach or Sticklebag will serve the turn: if none of these can be gotten, you may in their season have an Artificial one made of Cloath by one that is living, which I have found to be every whit as good a Bait as what are natural.

If you fish with a Natural or Artificial Fly, then follow such directions as I have already prescribed in a foregoing Chapter, which particularly discourses of Flies Natural and Artificial.

Of the UMBER.

IT is the opinion some, that the Umber and Grailing differ onely in Names, and are of a Trout-kind, but seldom grow to the bigness of a Trout, I having never seen nor heard any exceed the length of eighteen Inches.

He frequents such Rivers as the Trouts do, and is taken with the same Baits, especially the Fly; and; being a simple Fish, is more bold than the Trout is.

In the Winter he absconds himself, but after April he appears abroad, and is very gamesome and pleasant. He is very tender-mouth'd, and therefore quickly lost after he is struck. For what more may be said, I refer you to the Chapter of the Grailing.

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THus have I given you an Alphabetical and summary account of the Nature of Fish, and the several ways to take them, according to ancient and modern experience: I shall onely give you more a short discovery of their Haunts; and so I shall conclude this Treatise.

Next to the Art of taking Fish, the knowledge of their Haunts and proper places to find them in according to their kinds is rightly to be considered: for not knowing what Rivers or what parts of them are fittest for your Baits, or what Baits best sute with each River and the fish therein contained, you onely angle at adventure, and, instead of reaping satisfaction, you onely lose your pains and your labour.

Wherefore in the first place you are to understand, that fishes change places with the season. Some in the Summer keep always near the top or rim of the Water; others are continually at the bottom. For the first, you may angle with a Float or Fly; the latter are to be found at the Arches of Bridges, Mill-ponds, Wears, Flood-gates, &c. In Winter all fish in general fly into deep Waters.

The Barbel, Roach, Dace, and Ruff delight in sandy gravelly ground. The deepest part of the River and the Shadows of Trees are equally grateful.

The Bream, Pike, and Chub choose a Clay and Ouzie ground. The Bream delights most in the midst of a River whose Stream is not too rapid, but gently gliding: the Pike is for still Waters full of Fry; and that he may the better and securer seize his Prey, he frequently absconds himself amongst Water-docks, under Bushes or Bull-rushes.

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Carp, Tench, and Eel frequent still Waters, and what are foul and muddy. Eels lie lurking under Roots or Stones: The Carp is for the deepest place of the Water; and where there are green Weeds the Carp and Tench delight most of all.

Pearch delight in gentle Streams not too deep, yet they must not be shallow; and a hollow Bank is their chiefest refuge.

Gudgeons love sandy ground in gentle Streams, they affect small Rivers above the large, or small Brooks, and bite best in the Spring till they Spawn.

The Salmon delights most in Rivers which ebb and flow, are large, and have a swift current, in such Rivers are the greatest plenty. If the Rivers are rocky or weedy, so much the better.

Shad, Thwait, Plaice, and Flounder have the greatest love for salt or brackish Waters which ebb and flow.

The Umber affects Marly Clay grounds, clear and swift Streams; but they must then be far from the Sea, for they seldom come near it.

There are many more Rules to be observed, which generally hold good, but I will not conclude them infallible, since I have found some of them (well credited) very false; wherefore let every man's experience be his guide in the knowledge of the nature of Rivers, and the Fish their Inhabitants. And therefore it will be very requisite for him that would be compleat in the Art of Angling, diligently to observe whatever River or water he fisheth in, whether it be [...] [Page] [Page] [Page] muddy, slimy stony, gravelly, swift, or of a slow motion. And as he must have a competent knowledge in Rivers, Ponds, or all fishable waters he is acquainted with; so must he know the nature of each Filh, and what Baits are most proper for every kind, or he shall never attain to the reputation of a good experienced ANGLER.

I shall conclude this Treatise with the experimental observations of an ingenious Gentleman, who hath practiced the Art of Fishing many years, and therefore the more fit to give Directions for the right use of the Angle.

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Experimental Observations and useful Directions for the right use of the Angle; and is a true and brief Epitome of the whole Art and Mystery of the Fishing Recreation.

NOne certainly is so ignorant to address himself to the River for Recreation, but he will be mindful to carry necessary Tackle with him: being compleatly furnished therewith let him in the first place consult Sun, Wind, Moon, Stars, and change of Air; for without observing Times and Seasons, his Tackle, though never so good, will prove ineffectual.

Wherefore observe, if the Sun be obscured with Clouds, and his Face hidden from your Eyes, then set forth your Ground-baits, and use your brightest Flies. If the Sun shine out gloriously, then use the darkest of your Flies. Here note,

If that the Wind be in the South,

It blows the Fly in the Trout's Mouth.

If the weather be warm, it is no matter in what point of the Compass the Wind lieth, so that it blow [Page] not too high; the same observation holds good at Night as well as Day. If the Sun shine bright, the Moon prove clear, or the Stars glitter, there is but little sport to be expected.

Gentlemen, I write to you that have more than common experience in the Art of Angling, and therefore I hope you will not expect that I should here inform you how to prosecute the little recreation of the Thames, how to catch Bleak, Dace, &c. since there is hardly any young beginner that is ignorant thereof: Whereof omitting such trifling discourse, I shall fall upon that which is somewhat more material, and first, how to take Eels. When the Angler stays a night or two, let him take five or six Lines (or what number he thinks fit) each of them about sixteen yards long, and at every two yards long make a Noose to hang on a hook armed either to double Thread, or Silk-twist, for it is better then Wyre. His Hooks must be baited with Millers-thumbs, Loaches, Minnows or Gudgeons: to every Noose there must be a Line baited, and all the Lines mustly cross the River in the deepest place, either with Stones or pegged lying in the bottom, you must watch all night, or rise as soon as ever it is break of day (or else you will lose divers that were hung) and draw up the Lines, on each of which I have known two or three Eels or Grigs.

Every one that delights in Fly-fishing ought to learn the way of making two sorts of Artificial Flies, the Palmer ribbed with Silver or Gold, and the Mayfly, both which are the ground of all Flies.

In the making of the Palmer-Fly he must arm his Line on the inside of the Hook; then with a pair of Sizers let him cut so much of the brown of a Mallards Feathers as he shall think sufficient to make the Wings; then let him lay the outermost part of the Feather next the Hook, and the point of the Feather [Page] towards the Shank of the Hook; let him whip it three or four times about the Hook with the same Silk he armed the Hook; then make his Silk fast: then let him take the Hackle of the neck of a Cock or Capon (but a Plovers Top is best) and let him take off the one side of the Feather; and then he must take the Hackle-silk, or Gold or Silver thread; and let him make all these fast at the bent of the Hook, working them up to the Wings; every bout shifting his Fingers, and making a stop, then the Gold will fall right, and let him make fast: then work up the Hackle to the same place, and make it fast: after this let him take the Hook betwixt his Finger and Thumb in the left hand with Needle or Pin, and part the Wings in twain; then with the Arming-silk (having fastned all hitherto) let him whip it about as it falleth cross between the Wings, and with his Thumb he must turn the point of the Feather towards the bent of the Hook: then let him work it three or four times about the shank, so fasten it, and view the proportion for other Flies.

If he make the grounds of Hogs-wool, sandy, black, or white, or Bears-wool, or of a red Bullock two years old, he must work these grounds on a waxed Silk, and must arm and set on the Wings as aforesaid.

The body of the May-fly must be wrought with some of these grounds, which will be admirably well when ribbed with black Hair. The Oak-fly he must make with Orange-Tawny and black, for the body; and the brown of the Mallards Feather for the Wings.

The next thing to be observed, is the Floating for Scale-fish in Pond, or River: First, take notice that the Feed brings the Fish together, as the Sheep to the Pen; and there is no better in all Angling for Feed, than Bloud and Grains; though Paste is good yet inferiour to these.

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Next, let him observe to plumb his ground, Angling with fine Tackle, as single hair for half the Line next the Hook, round and small plumbed according to his Float. There is a small red worm with a yellow tip on his Tail, which is an excellent bait for this sort of Fish or any other. Other special baits are these: Brandlings, Gentles, Paste or Cadice (otherwise call'd Cock-bait.) They lie in Gravelly husk under the stones in the River.

There is a way of Trowling for Pike with an Hazle rod of Twelve foot long, with a Ring of Wyre on the top of the Rod for the Line to run through: within two foot of the bottom of the Rod, there is a hole made to put in a Wind to turn with a Barrel, to gather sip the Line and loose it at pleasure: This is the best manner of Trowling.

There is another way to take more Pikes either in Meere, Pond, or River, than any Trowler with his Rod can do, which is done after this manner.

Take a forked stick with a Line of Twelve yards long wound upon it; at the upper end leave about a yard, either to tie a bunch of Flags, or a Bladder to buoy up the Fish, and to carry it from the ground. The Bait must be a live fish, either Dace, Gudgeon, Roach, or small Trout: The forked stick must have a slit in the one side of the Fork to put in the Line, that he may set his live fish to swim at a gage, that when a Pike taketh the Bait, he may have the full liberty of the line for his feed. He may turn these loose either in Pond or River, in the Pond with the Wind all day long, the more the better: at night let him set some small weight that he may stay the Buoy till the Fish taketh it.

For the River he must turn all loose with the Stream; the Hooks must be double, the Shanks must be somewhat shorter then ordinary; for the shorter [Page] the Hook is off the Shank, without doubt it will less hurt the fish: and it must be armed with small Wyre well softned; but certainly a hook armed with twisted Silk is better.

If you arm your hook with Wyre, the Needle must be made with an Eye; then must he take one of those living Baits, and with one of his Needles enter within a Straws breadth of the Gill of the Fish, so pull the Needle betwixt the Skin and the Fish, then pull the Needle out at the hindmost Fin, and draw the Arming thorough the Fish, until the Hook come to lie close to the Fishes Body having so done, let him put off in Meere or pond with the Wind; in the River with the Stream: the more that he pulls off in Meere or Pond, he is the likelier to have the greater Pastime.

There is a time when Pikes go a Frogging in Ditches, and in the River to Sun them, as in May, June, and July; at these times you shall hardly miss one in twenty; and thus must the Angler deal with them. Let him take a Line of Seven or Eight foot, and let him arm a large Hook of the largest size that is made, and arm it to his Line; let him lead the shank of his Hook neatly, of such a weight that he may guide the Hook at his pleasure. He may strike the Pike that he sees with the bare Hook where he pleases. This Line and Hook doth far exceed Snaring.

In the taking of a Carp either in Pond or River, if the Angler intends to add Profit to his Pleasure, he must take a Peck of Ale-Grains and a good quantity of any Blood, and mix the Grains together, with which let him bait the Ground wherein he intends to Angle. This feed will wonderfully attract the Scale-fish, as Carp, Tench, Roach, Dace, and Bream. In the Morning early let him prosecute his pastime, plumbing his ground, and Angling for a Carp with a strong Line: the bait must be either paste, or a knotted red [Page] Worm; by this means he shall find sport enough.

In the Taking of a Trout with Ground-baits thus must the Angler do: In the first place he must have a neat taper Rod, light before, with a tender Hazle top. He may Angle with a single hair of five lengths, one tied to the other for the bottom of the Line, and a Line of three hair'd links for the upper part; and so if he have room enough he may take the largest Trout that swims in the River. He that angles with a line made of three hair'd links at the bottom, and more at the top, may take Trouts; but he that Angles with one Hair, shall take five Trouts to the others one: For this Fish is very quick sighted; therefore the Angler both day & Night must keep out of sight. He must Angle with the point of his Rod down the Stream.

He must begin to Angle in March with the Ground-baits all day long: but if it prove clear and bright, he must take the Morning and Evening, or else his labour will be in vain.

He that Angles with Ground-baits, must fit his Tackle to his Rod, and begin at the upper end of the Stream, carrying his Line with an upright hand, feeling the Plummet running on the ground some ten Inches from the Hook, plumbing his Line according to the swiftness of the Stream that he Angles in, for one Plummet will not serve for all Streams.

For his Bait let him take the red knotted Worm, which is very good where Brandlings are not to be had. The Minnow (or as some call it a Penk) is a singular Bait for a Trout; for he will come as boldly at it as a Mastiff-dog at a Bear. It will be advantageous to him in his angling to use a Line made of three Silks and three Hairs twisted for the upper most part of the Line, and two Silks and two Hairs twisted for the bottom next the Hook, with a Swivel nigh to the middle [Page] of his Line, with an indifferent large hook. Let him bait his hook with a Minnow, putting the hook through the lowermost part of his mouth, so draw the Hook through; then put the hook in at the mouth again, and let the point of the hook come out at the hindmost Fin; then let him draw his Line, and the Minnows mouth will close, that no Water will get into his Belly. As I said before, he must angle with the point of his Rod down the Stream, drawing the Minnow up the Stream by little and little nigh the top of the Water: the Trout seeing the bait will come most fiercely at it; but the Angler must not then presently strike: this is a true way without Lead; for many times they will come to the Lead, and forsake the Minnow.

The next direction is how to angle with a Fly for a Trout. In the first place let the Angler fit himself with a Hazle of one piece or two set conveniently together, light and pliable. The lower part of his Line next the Fly must be of three or four hair'd Links; but if he can attain (as aforesaid) to angle with a single Hair, he shall meet with more profit and pleasure.

Before he begin to angle, having the wind on his back, let him try how far he can cast his Line, or at what length his Fly, and let him be careful that the Fly fall first on the Water; for if any of the Line light upon the Water, he had better to have stood still than to have thrown at all. He must always cast down the Stream, with the Wind behind and the Sun before him; it is a great advantage to have either Sun or Moon before him.

March is the moneth for him to begin to angle with the Fly; but if the Weather prove windy or cloudy, there are several sorts of Palmers that are good at that time: The first is a black Palmer ribbed with Silver: The second a black Palmer with an Orange-tawny Body: Thirdly, a Palmer whose body [Page] is all black: Lastly, there is a red Palmer ribbed with Gold, and a red Hackle mixed with Orange Cruel. These Flies serve all the year long Morning and Evening, whether Windy or Cloudy Weather. But if the Air prove serene, he may then imitate the Hawthorn-fly, which is all black and very small, and the smaller the better.

In May let him take the May-fly and imitate that, which is made several ways: Some make them with a shammy Body; 'tis best with black Hair: Others make them with sandy Hogs-wool, ribbed with black Silk, and winged with a Mallards Feather several ways, according to the humour of the Angler. Another called the Oak-fly, is made of Orange coloured Cruel, and black, with a brown Wing. Lastly, there is another Fly, the Body whereof is made of the strain of a Peacock's Feather, which is very good in a bright day. These several sorts of Flies will serve the whole year, observing the times and seasons.

Here note, that the lightest Flies are for cloudy and dark Weather, the darkest for bright and light, and the rest for indifferent seasons, for which his own Judgement, Discretion, and Experience must guide him. Of late days the Hogs-wool of several colours, the Wool of a red Heifer and Bears-wool are made use of, which make good grounds, and excellent pastime.

The Natural-fly is a sure way of Angling to Augment the Anglers Recreation. Now how to find them take notice that the May-fly is to be found playing at the River side, especially against the Rain.

The Oak-fly is to be found on the But of an Oak, or an Ash, from the beginning of May to the end of August: It is a browntsh Fly, and stands always with his head towards the Root of the Tree, very easy to be found.

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The Black-flly is to be found on every Hawthornbush, after the Buds are come forth.

Now with these Flies he must use such a Rod as to angle with the ground bait: the Line must not be so long as the Rod.

Let the Angler withdraw his Flie as he shall find it most couvenient and advantageous in his Angling. When he comes to deep Water (whose motion is but slow) let him make his Line about two yards long, and dop his Fly behind a Bush, and he shall find incomparable sport.

The way to make the best Paste, is to take a convenient quantity of fresh Butter, as much Sheeps-suet that is fresh, a sufficient quantity of the strongest Cheese can be gotten, with the pith of an old stale white Loaf: Let all these be beaten in a Mortar till they come to a perfect paste; and when the Angler intends to spend some time in Angling, let him put hereof the quantity of a green Pea upon his Hook, and let him observe what pleasant effects it will produce.

An Angling SONG.

COme lay by all cares, and hang up all sorrow,

Let's Angle to day, and ne're think of to morrow;

And by the Brook-side as we Angle a long;

Wee'l cheer up our selves with our sport and a Song.

Sometimes on the Grass our selves we will lay,

And see how the watery Citizens play;

Sometimes with a Fly stand under a Tree.

And choose out what Fish our Captives shall be:

Thus void of all care we're more happy then they

That sit upon Thrones and Kingdoms do sway;

For Scepters and Crowns disquiet still bring,

But the Man that's content is more blest than a King.

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An Abstract of such Penal STATUTES As Relate to FISHING.

13. EDw. 1. cap. 47. No Salmons shell be taken from the Nativity of our Lady unto St. Martin's day. Young Salmons may not be destroy'd nor taken by Nets nor other Engines, at Mill pools from the midst of April until St. John Paptist. The Penalties you may see in the said Statute at large.

I. Eliz. cap. 17. None shall take and kill any young Brood, Spawn, os Fry of Eels, Salmon, Pike, or any other Fish, in any Flood-gate, Pipe at the tail of a Mill, Wear, or in any Straights, Streams, Brooks, Rivers fresh or salt. Nor take or kill any Salmons, or Trouts not being in season, being Ripper Salmons, or Ripper Trouts, Shedder Salmons, or Shedder Trouts.

II. None shall take or kill any Pike or Pickeril not being in length ten inches Fish, nor Salmon not being in length sixteen inches Fish, nor Trout under eight inches, nor Barbel under twelve inches.

III. None shall take Fish with any manner of Trammel, &c. in any River or other places, but onely with Net or Trammel, whereof every Besh or [Page] Mask shall be two inches and ½ broad. Angling excepted.

IV. Nevertheless this Statute allows Smelts, Loaches, Minnows, Gudgeons, Eeles, &c. to be taken by Net, &c. in such places, and such ways as heretofore they have been.

V. The penalty for every offence is 20s. and the Fish so taken, as also the Engine or Device whatsoever whereby the offence was committed.

5 Eliz. cap. 21. None may by day or night break down, cut out, or destroy any Head or Dam of any Ponds, Pools, Motes, &c. where any Fish shall be put in or stored withal by the owners thereof. Nor shall Take, Kill, or Steal away any of the said Fish in the said Ponds, &c. against the will of the Owner.

22 & 23 Car. 2 cap. 25. It is not, lawful for any person to use any Casting-net, Thief-net, Trammel, Shove-net, or other Net; nor to use any Angle, Hair, Noose, Spear, or Trowl: Not to lay any Nets, UUears, Pots, Fish-hooks, or other Engines; Or to take any Fish by any other means or device whatsoever, in any River, Sew, Pond, Bote, or other UUater; Nor be aiding or assisting thereunto, without the License or consent of the Lord or Owner of the said Water. And in case any person be convict of any of these Offences, by his own confession, or by Oath of one sufficient Witness, within one moneth after the Offence be committed, before any Justice of the Peace of such County, Riding, Division, or Place, wherein such be committed; every such person in Taking, Stealing, or Killing Fish, shall for chery such Offence give to the Party or Parties grieved or injured such recompence for his or their Damages, and within such time as the said Justice shall appoint, not exceeding treble Damages: And over and above pay down presently unto the Overseers for the Poor where such [Page] Difence is committed, such sum of Money, not exceeding 10s. as the said Iustice shall think meet. And in default of payment, as aforesaid, the same to be levied by distress of the Difenders Goods, by Warrant under the Hand and Seal of such Iustice before whom the Difender shall be convicted, rendring the overplus, if any be: And for want of Disteess the Difender or Difenders shall be committed to the house of Correction, for such time as the Iustice shall think fit, not exceeding one Month, unless the party offending shall enter into Bond with one competent Surery or Sureties to the party iniured, not exceeding ten pounds, never to offend in like manner.

II. And rvery Iustice of Peace, before whom such Difender shall be convict, may take, cut in pieces, and destroy all such Angles, Spears, Hairs, Nooses, Trowls, Wears, Pots, Fish-hooks, Nets, or other Engines whatsoever, wherewith such Difender as aforesaid shall be taken or apprehended.

III. Nevertheless, any person aggrieved may appeal to the Iustices of the Peace in their next quarter Sessions; who may give relief, and make such Order therein as shall be agreeable to the Tenor of this Act: whose Order therein shall be final, if no title of Land, Royalty, or Fishery be therein concerned.

FINIS.

§

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THE TABLE FOR HUNTING: Being the First PART.

Page.

INtroduction

1

Terms of Art

4

Some general names of Hounds and Beagels

19

Terms relating to Forests, &c.

20

Of the Hound Rache and Sluth-hound

28

Of the Blood-hound

29

Of the Gaze-hound

33

Of the Grey-hound

34

Of the Harrier and Terrier

36

Of the Hound Levyner or Lyemer

37

Of the Tumbler

ibid.

Of the Spaniel

39

Of the White Hound

40

Of Fallow-Hounds

ibid.

Of the Dun-hound

41

The marks of a good Hound

42

The election of a Dog and Bitch for good Whelps

43

How to enter young Hounds at the Hart, &c.

44

Of Coursing with Grey-hounds

46

The Laws of the Leash or Coursing

49

The Stiles of Hunting different from the English, both Antique and Forrain

52

Of Hart-Hunting

56

The Nature of a Hart

57

Of the Rut of Harts

62

Of the time of Harts Mewing

67

Of the Coats and Colours of Harts, and their diversities

66

How to know an old Hart by the Slot, Entries, &c.

67

The names and diversities of Harts-heads according to Hunters Terms

69

How to seek a Hart in his [...] or feeding place according to the seasons of the year

[...]

In what manner the Huntsman shall go drawing in the Springs

71

Directions for Harbouring a Stag

72

How to find a Hart lost the night before

73

How, to find a Hart in high Woods

74

How to unbarbour a Hart and cast off the Hounds

75

What subtilties are used in hunting a Hart at force

76

How to kill a Hart at Bay.

79

Directions at the death of a Buck on Hart

80

Buck-Hunting

81

Roe-Hunting

83

Rain-Deer-Hunting

86

Hart Hunting

91

Of Parks and Warrens

100

Of Coney catching

102

Of the Ferret

104

Of Fbx-Hunting

105

Of Badger-Hunting

111

Of Otter-Hunting

115

Of the Squirrel

118

Of the Martern or Wild-Cat

120

A short Account of Beasts not Hunted in England, and first of the Wolf

123

Of Wild-goat-Hunting

126

Of Wild-boar Hunting

128

Of Bear-Hunting

135

Of the Beaver

137

Of the Elk

139

Diseases and Cures of Hounds

140

Diseases and Cures of Spaniels

146

Penal Laws relating to Hunters and Hunting

150

Penal Laws concerning Forests and Chaces, &c.

155

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The Table for HAWKING: Being the Second PART.

THe Introduction

Page 1

Terms of Art

4

Of the Haggard-Faulcon

11

How to know the Nature and Disposition of several Hawks, and what must be observed from thence

17

Of the Faulcon

20

Of the Manning, Luring, Flights, and Mewing of a Faulcon, with other things belonging to an Ostrager

22

Of bathing a Faulcon lately reclaimed; how to make her, and to hate the Check

26

How to enseam a Faulcon with her Castings and Scowrings

28

General Instructions for an Ostrager or Faulconer

32

How to hood a Hawk

36

How to make your Hawk know your Voice and her own feeding

37

How to make your Hawk bold and venturous

ibid.

How to make a Hawk know the Lure

38

How to make a Hawk flying

ibid.

A Flight for a Haggard

40

How to make a Soar-Faulcon, or Haggard kill at the very first

41

Remedy for a Hawks taking stand in a Tree

42

How to help a Hawk froward and coy through pride of grease

ibid.

How to make a Hawk hold in her head and not mind Check

43

How to continue and keep a Hawk in her high flying

ibid.

A flight for the Hern

45

Of the Haggard-faulcon; why so called, her good shape 'and properties, &c.

47

Of the Barbary-faulcon

50

Of the Gerfaulcon

ibid.

Of the Saker

53

Of the Lanner, Lanneret, and Tunisian

54

Of the Metlin

57

Of the Mewing of Merlins, Faulcons, &c. And which is the best way of Mewing

58

Of the Hobby

61

Of the Goshawk

62

How to make the Soar or Haggard-Goshawk

64

How to make a Goshawk fly to the Partridge

65

How to help a Goshawk that turneth Tail to Tail, and giveth over her Game

66

How to make a Goshawk fly quickly

67

How to fly a Goshawk to the River

68

An excellent way to preserve a Goshawk in the time of her flying, especially in hot weather

69

How to fly the Wild-goose or Crane with the Goshawk

ibid.

How to Mew a Goshawk, and draw her out of the Mew, and make her flying

70

Some general Observations for an Ostrager or Faulconer in keeping and reclaiming a Goshawk

71

Of the Sparrow-hawk

73

How to make a Sparrow-hawk, whether Eyess, Brancher, Soar, Mew'd, or Haggard

74

How to Mew Sparrow-hawks

78

The duty of a Faulconer, with necessary Rules and Observations for him to follow

80

Of Diseases and dangerous accidents incident to Hawks, and their several Cures

81

Of Castings and Mewtings, either good or bad according to their several complexions and smells.

82

Of the Cataract

85

Of the Pantas or Asthma

86

Of Worms

87

Of the Filanders

ibid.

Another approved medicine for Filanders or Worms in Hawks

88

Of Hawks Lice

ibid.

A safe and easie way to kill Lice in Hawks

89

How to keep and maintain all manner of Hawks in health, good plight, and liking

ibid.

Of the Formica

90

Of the Frownce

91

Of the Pip

ibid.

How to remedy that Hawk which endeweth not, nor putteth over as she should do

92

How to make a Hawk feed eagerly that bath lost appetite, without bringing her low

93

How to raise a Hawk that is low and poor

ibid.

How to remedy a Hawk that is slothful and averse to flying

94

Of swoln feet in a Hawk

ibid.

How to scour Hawks before you cast them into the Mew

95

Penal Laws relating to Hawks and Hawking

97

The Table for FOWLING: Being the Third PART.

WHat Fowling is, with the nature and diversity of all manner of Fowl

Page 101

Of the haunts of Fowl

103

The readiest way to take great Fowl with Nets

104

How to take small Water-fowl with Nets

105

How to take small Birds with Bird-lime

107

How to take great Fowl with Lime-twigs

109

Of the great and lesser Springs

111

Of the Fowling-piece and Stalking-horse

113

How to take all manner of Land-fowl by day and night

118

Of Bat-fowling

121

Of the Day-net, and how to take Birds therewith

ibid.

Of taking small Birds which use Hedges and Bushes with Lime-twigs

123

How to make the best sort of Bird-lime, and how to use it

126

The best and most experienced way of making Water-bird-lime

127

In what manner Snipes may be taken with Bird-lime

128

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Of the Bull-finch

179

Of the Green-Finch

ibid.

Of the Hedge-Sparrow

180

An Abstract of such Penal Laws as concern Fowling

183

The Table for FISHING: Being the Fourth and last PART.

THe Introduction

Page 1

An Encomium, or somewhat in praise of Fisher-man and Fishing

7

Fish-ponds to improve, and the fish therein contained

8

Carps to make them grow to an extraordinary bigness in Pond

10

General Observations to be understood in the Art of Angling

11

Astrological Elections for Angling in general

13

What provision is to be made for Angling-tools

14

A Line after the best manner, how to make

15

Of the Hook, Flote, and other things worth the observation

16

Flies Natural and Artificial, and how to use them

18

Of Ground-angling

23

Of Night-angling

24

What times are seasonable, and what unseasonable to angle in

25

Of the Barbel

27

Of the Bream

29

Of the Bleak

31

Of the Bull-head or Millers-Thumb

32

Of the Chevin

33

Of the Char

34

Of the Chub, Cheven, Chavender

ibid.

Of the Carp

36

Of Dace or Dare

38

Of the Eel

39

Of the Flounder

42

Of the Gudgeon

43

Of the Guiniard

ibid.

Of the Loach

44

Of the Minnow

45

Of the Pope or Ruff

ibid.

Of the Pike

46

Of the Pearch

50

Of the Rud

52

Of the Roach

ibid.

Of the Stickleback

55

Of the Salmon

ibid.

Of the Tench

57

Of the Torcoth

61

Of the Trout

ibid.

Of the Umber or Grayling

63

Fishes Haunt, &c.

64

Experimental Observations and Directions for Angling

67

An Angling Song

75

An Abstract of such Penal Laws as relate to Fishing

76

The Table for the HUNTING-HORSE, Being an Appendix to the First Part.

OF Hunting-Horses in general, their excellency, and the necessity and benefit of the Art of Keeping

Page 1

Of Breeding; the choice of a Stallion, and Mares, with some general Remarks on Marks and Colours

8

Of the Age a Hunter should be of, before he be put to Hunting: Of the Stable, and Groom, and of the Horses first taking up from Grass, in order to his further dieting

24

How to order the Hunter for the first Fortnight

34

Of the second Fortnights Diet, and of his first Hunting, and what Chases are most proper to Train him

50

Of the Horses third Fortnights Keeping, and first Thorough-sweating

64

Of making a Hunting-Match, its advantages and disadvantages

70

Of the ordering the Hunter for a Match or Plate

77

Of the means to judge of your Horses state of Body, and of curing all Casualties that may happen after Matching

87

Of Riding a Hunting-Match, or Heats for a Plate, and the advantages belonging to each

91

FINIS.

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The Hunter. A DISCOVRSE of HORSEMANSHIP: Directing The right way to breed, keep, and train a HORSE, for ordinary Hunting and Plates.

OXFORD, Printed by L. Lichsield, Printer to the University, for Nicholas Cox. 1685.

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The HUNTER. CHAP. I. Of Hunting-Horses in general, their Excellency, and the necessity and benefit of the Art of Keeping.

I Shall omit to speak in praise of Hunting in general, since I would avoid (as much as might be) Repetitions, and that it is already done at the Begining of the foregoing Book, with more Address than I am Master of. But since that Author hath spoken nothing of the Hunting-Horse, which is a principal Instrument of that Excellent Recreation, I desire leave to speak a word in his Behalf. In Behalf, I say, of this noble Creature, to whom all that are Followers of Hunting are oblig'd: since it is by his Strength and Vigour that we gratifie at ease our Eyes and Ears with all the Pleasures that Hunting affords; and without whose Assistance, a great part of us could enjoy it a little more than in Imagination.

But tis not to us only, that are Huntsmen, but to all Mankind, that the Hunter is (or may be) serviceable. Has our Prince, or Country occasion for our Service in the Field: on what Horse can we venture our Lives more securely, than on the Hunter? His Readiness to obey the Hand and Heel, equals him to the [Page] Mannag'd Horse. His being us'd to gallop on all sorts of Grounds, as well steep places as deep Earths, has so steel'd his Couragc, that he declines no Military service you can put him on. Are there Ambuscado's to be laid, Discoveries to be made, speedy and long Marches to be perform'd; or any other Service, wherein Strength of Body, Purity of Wind, or Swiftness, are requir'd? The General may in any of these cases rely on the Hunter, with as much Confidence, as on the Horse that is dress'd in the Mannage.

In times of Peace he is equally Useful, not only for Pleasure, but also for Necessity, and Profit. How diverting to the Eyes, is a Beautiful Horse after a Pack of Dogs? and with how much ease to our Bodies, and delight to our Minds, are we carried up to them; with so much Vigour and Pride to be discern'd in his Countenance, as if he emulated the Hounds in their Speed, and was desirous to excell them, in his Obedience to their common Lord.

How Necessary is the Hunter beyond all other Horses, if his Masters urgent Affairs (where either Life or Fortune are in hazard,) exact the performance of a long Journey in a short Time. If his Master, in hopes of Advantage, has match'd him against any other Horse; how ready and willing is he, to persorm the Utmost that Nature is capable of, or his Master can reasonably expect from Him? and having Art joyn'd to his natural Abilities, will not only excell all other Horses, but accomplish things beyond his Masters Hopes, or Expectations; for without its Assistance in Dieting and Exercise, no Horse can follow the Hounds, or indeed undergo any other extreme Labour, without hazarding the melting his Grease, the breaking of his Wind, or foundring him either in Feet, or Body: all which are consequences of immoderate Labour, and Ignorance in this Art.

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That I may therefore give you some Light into its Mysteries, I shall first direct you how to breed such Horses that may be for Training; or else instruct you, how otherwise to procure them. Secondly, how to know by Shapes, Marks, and other Tokens, what Horse may be most convenient for your purpose. Thirdly, how to diet him so, that he may perform all things within his Power, without Danger. Lastly, what manner of Exercise is most conducive to this Design: and on these Heads I intend to inlarge in my following Discourse.

But before I enter upon my Subject propos'd, I think it necessary to answer Four Objections, that may be made against this Art of Dieting and Training Horses, that I may remove all prejudice from the minds of those, who think they may have Reason to oppose it; and that I may vindicate (with Truth) this Art, and clear it from all Aspersions.

The first Objection I shall mention, is made by de Grey in his Epistle to the Reader, (Edit. 4th.) where under the Umbrage of his Love to Horses and in pity of the Hardships they undergo in Hunting, he extreamly inveighs against it, as the Sourse of all their Miseries. But that I may not be tax'd of Prevarication by my Reader, and for his satisfaction I shall set down his Words, which are these.

‘If the Nobility and Gentry of this our Isle of Great Britain, did truly know how honourable, and how commendable Horsemanship were, and how much they are esteem'd and admir'd, who are the true Professors thereof, they would labour more than they now do, to breed and to have good Horses; but it much troubleth me to see, how little Esteem Gentlemen have thereof. Some Horses they have, though not for Mannage, yet for Hunting: but what manner of Hunting? Fox-hunting forsooth, or Harriers, which be as fleet as petty Grey-hounds, wherewith [Page] they do so much over-strain the strength of these poor Horses, (forcing them over deep Fallows, tough Clays, and wet and rough Sands,) that albeit those Horses be strong and able, yet are they so toil'd out therewith, as that when they come home at night they would pity the Heart of him that loveth an Horse to see them so bemired, blooded, spurred, lamentably spent, and tyred out; whereas if such Horses had been ridden to the Great-Saddle and Cannon, they would infinitely have delighted all men that should have beheld them.’

To this I answer, that for my own part I am not very fond of Fox hunting; but I can see no Reason why Persons of Honour should not gratifie their Fancies with this Recreation, since from the beginning Horses were made for the service of Man; and doubtless for their Recreation, as well as more necessary Uses. And I am very confident, that if Horses be train'd, dieted, and ridden according to Art, there will be left no ground for this Objection. For by good Feeding Faintness would be prevented; and by Airing, and due Exercise, the Horses Wind would be so improv'd, that no moderate Labour would hurt him; nay, though a Horse by immoderate Riding, were reduc'd to such Tragical Exigencies, as De Grey mentions, yet by the Assistance of Art Nature may be in Twenty four hours space so reliev'd, that all those dangerous Symptoms shall be remov'd, and all the Natural Faculties act as formerly.

Now as to the last part of his Argument, I appeal to all the greatest Masters of Academies here, or in Foreign Parts; whether in the Mannage, the Spurs are not as much us'd, (not to say more,) as in Hunting; and the Duke of Newcastle in his Methode Nouvelle in 80. p. 85. says, il n'y a point d' Exercise si violent pour les Chevaux que celuy de Manege; that is, There is no Exercise so violent for Horses as the Mannage; [Page] so that you see Hunting is not the only violent Exercise: and Salomon de la Brove goes further in his Cavalarise Frangoise, telling us, that Mannag'd Horses should sometimes be us'd to the Chase, since hunting assists his wind, and brings him to a civil Acquaintance with other Horses: inferring from hence, that hunting procures to an Horse two Benefits, viz. Speed and Strength, and reforms in him two Vices, Salvageness and Restiveness.

Secondly, there are others, that though they may approve of keeping their Horses clean, yet are not reconcil'd to hunting; but being either Admirers of Coursing, or else keeping Horses only for the benefit of their health, and the taking the Air; will not be perswaded, but that they can bring their Horses to the same Perfection without hunting, as with it.

To answer the first of these, I mean Coursers; I affirm, 'tis impossible to attain the end of this Art by that Means: for being oblig'd in search of their Game to toil their Horses all day, over deep Fallows, in a foot-pace only, they are likelier to bring their Horses to Weariness than Perfection.

And the same Answer may serve the Others likewise: for Riding a Horse up and down the Field after nothing, brings a Weariness and Dislike to an Horse in his Exercise, through his Ignorance of the Time, when his Labour shall cease; whether, or to what End he is so labour'd. Whereas on the contrary, an Horse naturally takes delight in following the Dogs, and seems pleas'd with their Musick, as is evident by his pricking up his Eaers, gazing on them, and preffing to gallop towards them, when ever he hears them in full-cry, (though at a distance.) Nay further, I have been Master of a Stonehorse, that so entirely lov'd the Hounds, that when at any time (through eagerness of Sport, and desire to save the Hare from being [Page] eaten) I have rid in amongst the Dogs, he would so carefully avoid treading on them, that he has more than once hazarded my Limbs (by making a false step) to save theirs. From hence I infer, that doubtless Horses extreamly delight in hunting, and consequently, that it is a fit Exercise for them.

Thirdly, Others Object, That what soever Pleasure there may be in Hunting, they had rather deny themselves that satisfaction than hazard the Laming their Horses, which, (as they are told few, or no Hunters escape.

That Hunters are sometimes Lame, I do not deny: but cannot allow, that it proceeds alwaies from this Exercise. For 'tis the Indiscretion of the Riders, in overstraining their Horses at Leaps; and by that meanes, sometimes clapping them on the back-sinews, catching in their shoos, and such like, and not the Sport, that is the cause of Lameness. But on the contrary, I will undertake to shew any man Twenty other Horses lame (which never knew what belong'd to Hunting) for One Hunter. There are several other Reasons besides Hunting to be given for Lameness; as for Instance. Much Travel though but moderate, if care be wanting) will produce Wind-galls, and Splints, which are the fore-runners of Lameness. Want of Exercise will straiten the Hoofs, and dry up the sinews; and too much negligence in Travail occasions Surbating, Foundring, and Gravailing. Horses on the Road oftentimes stumble, and now and then fall, and so become Lame. Nav, a Slip, or an Over-reach are as incident to the Pad, as to the Hunter. And to conclude, the Horse that is Dressd, is more liable to a Strain in the Back, and Fillets, than the Hunter; by meanes of his short-turns: so that you may perceive that Lameness is Epidemical, and therefore no more to be objected against Hunting-Horses, than the rest of that Species.

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Fourthly, Some again are. Enemies to this Art of Dyeting Horses in particular: affirming, that such exact Diet makes them tender, sickly, and takes them off their Stomach: and that the Charges are not only great, but likewise unnecessary.

To the First part of this Obiection, I answer, that an Horse is so far from being made tender, or losing his Appetite, by such extream and several Feedings, if he have proportionate Exercise, that it rather inures him to hardship. For much Labour (if not too violent) either in Man or Beast, instead of weakning the Ssomack, and causing Sickness, does rather advance the Appetite and preserve his Health; and it may be observed, that it doth oftner heighten than decay the Stomack. In like manner moderate Airings purify his Wind, and both together render him Healthy, and fit for Service.

As to the several sorts of Food, we shall prove in the sequel, that every part of it is both nourishing, and natural to all Horses Constitutions; so that consequently, tis not only allowable, but necessary: And to prove this, needs no more; than to ride an ordinary Horse drawn clean, a days Hunting, or three Heats, and a Course, against the best of those Horses, which are kept by such Persons who think that half a Peck a Day, and fetching his water at the next Spring is Horsemanship sufficient; and they will find by keeping and Exercise, the Ordinary Horse will become long winded, and stick at Mark: when the other that is Foul-fed, and fat, will soon give out, for want of Wind; or otherwise if he be hardy will dy under the Spur; whereas if the untrained Horse had been rightly ordered he would have worsted Twenty such Horses.

Now to the Charges of Keeping, Fifty Shillings a Year disburs'd for Bread, besides Hay, Straw, Corn [Page] and Physick, (which all Horses of Value must be allowed) is all that will be requisite, to keep an Horse in as good State for Ordinary Hunting, as any Horse whatsoever. Lastly by being Skilful in the Art of Keeping, this Advantage will insue; that no Distemper relating either to the Head or Body can conceal themselves from his keepers knowledge, whose Skill will inform him, how to put a stop to them, before they have made any considerable Advances to the Horses Prejudice. And he that grudges so small an Expence on so noble and useful a Creature as an Horse is, deserves never to come on the back of one.

CHAP. II. Of Breeding, the Choice of a Stallion, and Mares, with some general Remarks on Marks and Colours.

SInce Creation and Generation preceeded the Art of Riding, and that the first thing which is of Course to be treated of, is the Choice of an Horse fit for this exercise of Hunting, I shall speak somthing cursorily of the Art of Breeding, before I treat of the Hunter ready for service. To them therefore that have grounds convenient for Breed, I shall direct this part of my discourse: and lay them down some few Rules that may be serviceable to them, though I shall be as brief as possible, and refer them to Markham, de Grey, Morgan, Almond, and Farring Compleated, (which is collected from the forementioned Authors [Page] Markham and de Grey) all which have treated of the Art of Breeding more at large.

First therefore I wonld advise you to buy either an Arabian Horse (if you can procure him,) a Spaniard, a Turk, or a Barb, for your Stallion, that is well shap'd, of a good Colour to beautify your Race, and well mark'd, to agree with most mens Opinions; though otherwise they are not so significative as Mr. Blundevile, and his Italian Author Frederigo Grissone, would have us believe.

To begin with the Arabian; Merchants, and other Gentlemen that have travell'd those parts, report, that the right Arabians are valu'd at an incredible, as well as an intolerable Rate; being priz'd at Five hundred, others say at one, two, and three thousand Pounds an Horse; that the Arabs are as careful of keeping the Genealogies of their Horses, as Princes in keeping their Pedigrees; that they keep them with Medals; and that each Son's Portion is usually two Suits of Arms, two Cymeters, and one of these Horses. The Arabs boast, that they will ride fourscore miles a day, without drawing Bitt: which has been perform'd by several of our English Horses. But much more was atchiev'd by an High way-man's Horse; who having taken a Booty, on the same day rode him from London to York, being One hundred and Fifty Miles. Notwithstanding their great value, and the difficulty in bringing them from Scanderoon to England by Sea; yet by the care, and at the charge of some Breeders in the North, the Arabian Horse is no stranger to those parts; where Persons who have the curiosity, may (as I presume) at this Day see some of the Race, if not a true Arabian Stallion.

The Spanish Horse (according to the Duke of Newcastle) is the Noblest Horse in the world, and the most Beautiful that can be; no Horse is so curiously shap'd [Page] all over from Head to Croup, and he is absolutely the best Stallion in the world, whether you design your Breed for the Mannage, the War, the Pad, Hunting, or for Running Horses. But as he is excellent, so he wants not for price, Three or Four hundred Pistols being a common Rate for a Spanish Horse. Several have been sold for Seven hundred, Eight hundred, and a Thousand Pistols a piece; and One particular Horse, called el Bravo, that was sent to the Arch-Duke Leopold, was held worth as much as a Mannour of a Thousand Crowns a year. The best Spanish Horses are bred in Andalouzia, and particularly at Cordova, where the King has many Studds of Mares, and so have several of the Spanish Nobility and Gentry. Now besides the great price at first, the Charges of the Journey from Spain to England will be very considerable: for first, he must travel from Andalouzia to Bilbo, or St Sebastien, the neerest Ports to England, and is at least Four hundred Miles: and in that hot Country you cannot with safety travel your Horse above twenty Miles a day, then there is the Expence of your Groom and Farrier, besides the casualty of Lameness, Sickness, and Death: so that though he do prove an Extraordinary good Horse, by that time he arrives at your own home he will likewise be an Extraordinary dear one.

The Turk is little inferior to the Spanish Horse in Beauty, but somewhat odd-shap'd, his head being somewhat like that of a Camel: He hath excellent Eyes, a thin Neck excellently risen, and somewhat large of body: his Croup is like that of a Mule; his Legs not so underlimb'd as those of the Barb, but very sinewy, good Pasterns, and good Hoofs: They never amble, but trot very well: and are accounted at this present better Stallions for Gallopers than Barbs, as when I come to speak of them) I shall shew.

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Some Merchants affirm, that there cannot be a more noble and divertive sight to a Lover of Horses, than to walk into the Pastures near Constantinople, about Soyling-time, where he may see many hundred gallant Horses tethred, and every Horse has his Attendant or Keeper, with his little Tent (plac'd near him) to lie in, that he may look to him, and take care to shift him to fresh Grass, as occasion requires.

The Price of a Turk is commonly One hundred or One hundred and Fifty Pounds a Horse, and when bought tis difficult to get a Pass; the Grand Segnior being so very strict, that He seldom (but upon extraordinary oecasions) permits any of his Horses to be exported his Dominions. But if (when obtain'd) you travel by Land, without a Turk or two for your Convoy, you will be sure to have them seiz'd on by the way. Then, as in the former, so here, you will find the same difficulties of a long Journey, (for you must come through Germany, which is a long way,) aud the same charges attending it, I mean your Groom and Farrier, who must be careful that they entrust no Persons whatsoever with the care of him, but themselves, especially in shooing of him: For tis the common practice beyond Sea, (as well as here) where they discover a fine Horse, to hire a Farrier to prick him, that they may buy him for a Stallion.

But some People chuse to buy Horses at Smyrna in Anatolia, and from thence, as likewise srom Constantinople, transport them to England by Sea; which, if the Wind serve right, arrive in England in a month, though generally the Merchants make their Voyages little less than a Quarter of a year.

The Barb is little inferior to any of the former in beauty, only he is accounted by our Modern Breeders too slender and Lady-like to breed on: and therefore in the North, at this instant, they prefer the Spanish [Page] Horse and Turk before him. He is so lazy and negligent in his walk, that he will stumble on Carpetground. His Trot is like that of a Cow, his Gallop low, and with much ease to himself. But he is for the most part sinewy, and nervous, excellently winded, and good for a Course, is he be not over-weighted.

The Mountain-Barbs are accounted tbe best, because they are the strongest and largest. They belong to the Allarbes, who value them as much themselves, as they are priz'd by any other Nations, and therefore they will not part with them to any Persons except to the Prince of the Band to which they belong; who can at any time, at his pleasure, command them for his own use. But for the other more ordinary sort, they are to be met with pretty common, in the hands of several of our Nobility and Gentry; or if you send into Languedoc and Provence in France, they may be there bought for forty or fifty Pistols a Horse. Or if you will send into Barbary, you may have one for Thirty Pounds, or thereabouts. But here too the charges and journey will be great; for though from Tunis to Marselles in France be no great Voyage, yet from Marselles to Callais by Land measures the length of all Franee, and from thence they are shipt for England.

The next thing of course to be treated of, is the choice of your Mares, and the fittest Mare to breed out of, according to the Duke of Newcastle's opinion, is one that has been bred of an English Mare, and a Stallion of either of these Races; but if such a Mare be not to be got, then make choice of a right bred English Mare by Sire and Dam, that is well fore-handed, well underlaid, and strong put together in general; and in particular, see that she have a lean Head, wide Nostrils, open Chaul, a big Weasand, and the Windpipe straight and loose, and chuse her about five or six year [Page] old, and be sure that the Stallion be not too old.

Now for the Food of the Stallion, I would have you keep him as high as possible for four or five months before the time of Covering, with old clean Oats, and split Beans, well hull'd; to which you may add, if you please, Bread, (such as in this Book shall be hereafter directed) and now and then, for variety, you may give him an handful of clean Wheat, or Oats washt in strong Ale; but as for Bay-salt, and Anniseeds, which Mr. Morgan, in his Perfection of Horsemanship, advises should be scatter'd amongst his Provender, I hold them superfluous whilst the Horse is in health, but be sure let him have plenty of good old sweet Hay, well cleansed from Dust, and good Wheat-straw to lie on; and let him be watred twice every day at some fair running Spring, or else a clear standing Pond-water (where the other is not to be had) near some Meadow or level piece of Ground, where you may gallop him after he hath drunk. When you have brought him to the water, do not suffer him to drink his Fill at the first, but after he has taken his first draught, gallop and scope him up and down a little to warm it, and then bring him to the water again, and let him drink what he please, and after that gallop him as you did before, never leaving the Water till you find he will drink no more. By this means you will prevent raw Crudities, which the Coldness of the Water would produce to the detriment of the Stomach, if you had permitted him to drink his fill at first; whereas you allowing him his fill (though by degrees) at last, you keep his Body from drying too fast. And this I take to be much better for your Horses than (according to the forecited Morgan) to incourage his Water with Whitewine, to qualifie the cold quality thereof: for Nature it self is the best Directress for the expulsion of her Enemies. [Page] especially in Brutes, where usually she can command the Appetite: and therefore I esteem his own natural heat, for warming his water, to be better than that which proceeds from any other. Now as to Morgan's Direction of Sweating him every day early in the Morning, which he says ‘will not only perfect disgestion; and exhaust the moisture from his Seed, but also strengthen and cleanse his Blood and Body from all raw and imperfect humors’; I am of opinion twill both dry up the radical Moisture too fast, and likewise instead of heightning his Pride and Lust, (which he alledges,) weaken him too much. Other Rules might be given as to the ordering of them after Water, and the Hours of Feeding, with the quantity &c. but these will be fitter to be handled in another place, and therefore no more of them here.

Now when your Stallion is in Lust, and the Time for Covering is come, which is best to be in May, that the Foles may fall in April following, otherwise they will have little or no Grass, if they should be put together (according to Markham's opinion) in the middle of March tho he holds that one Fole falling in March is worth two falling in May, ‘because (saith he) he possesseth, as it were, two Winters in a year, and is thereby so hardened, that nothing can almost after impair him.’ The time I say being come to put your Stallion and Mares together, pull off his hinder Shoes, and lead him to the place where the Stud of Mares are, which you intend for covering, which place ought to be close well fenc'd, and in it a little Hutt for a Man to lie in, and a larger Shed with a Manger to feed your Stallion with Breud and Corn, during his Abode with the Mares, and to shelter him in the heat of the Day and in Rainy weather, and this Close ought to be of sufficient langeness to keep your Mares well for two months.

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Before you pull of his Bridle, let him cover a Mare or two in hand, then turn him loose amongst them, and put all your Mares to him, as well those which are with Foale, as those which are not, for there is no danger in it; and by that means they will all be serv'd in their height of Lust, and according to the intention of Nature. When your Stallion has cover'd them once, he tries them all over again, and those which will admit him he serves; and when his business is finish'd, he beats the Pale, and attempts to be at Liberty; which when your Man finds, (who is Night and Day to observe them, and to take care that no other Mares are put to your Horse, and to give you an Account, which take the horse, and which not, &c.) let him be taken up, and let him be well kept as before; only you may at the first give him a good Mash or two, to help to restore Nature, for you will find him nothing but Skin and Bones, and his Mane and Tail will rot off. Be sure give him never above Ten or Twelve Mares in a Season, at most; otherwise you will scarce recover him against the next Years Covering-time.

When your Stallion is past this use, then buy another; but be sure never make use of a Horse of your own Breed, for by so doing the Best Kind would in time degenerate: but you cannot do better (the Duke of Newcastle says) than to let your own Mares be cover'd by their Sire, for (according to his own words and opinion) there is no Incest in Horses: and by this means they are nearer one degree to the Purity and Head of the Fountain, from which they are deriv'd, since a fine Horse got them, and the same fine Horse covers them again.

Now though the Duke of Newcastle affirms this to be the true way for covering Mares, alledging that Nature is wiser than Art in the Act of Generation, and [Page] that by this way, of a dozen Mares he dare affirm that two shall not fail: yet it may not correspond with the Interest of some private Gentlemen who turn Breeders for Profit as well as Pleasure; for a good Stallion bearing such an extraordinary rate, and they having but One, have reason to be cautions, to avoid as much as can be all hazardous Experiments; which (with submission to the Duke's Judgment) this in some cases may prove. For first, there have been Horses of great spirit, that have kill'd themselves through excess of Lust, being left to range at their liberty; and those that have been confin'd to an Enclosure, & a select number of Mares, have yet in one Weeks space so weaken'd Nature, that not above half the Mares have held. Secondly, some Mares are of so hot a constitution of Nature, and their Lust so violent, that if they are permitted to run long with the Horse, after they have conceived, will (if they be high in flesh and lusty) desire the Horse again, which generally hazards the Loss of the Embrio they go with.

To prevent therefore these Inconveniences, I shall lay you down an other Method (as briefly as may be,) which is called covering in hand, as the former is generally term'd out of hand, and the way is this: viz. when you have brought both your Horse and Mare to as proper condition for Breed by Art and good feeding, then set some ordinary Ston'd-Nag by her for a day or two to wooe her, and by that means she will be so prone to Lust, that she will readily receive your Stallion; which you should present to her either early in a Morning, or late in an Evening, for a day or two together, and let him cover her in hand once, or twice if you please, at each time, observing always to give the Horse the advantage of Ground, and that you have some one ready with a Pucket of cold water to throw on the Mare's Shape, [Page] immediately on the dismounting of the Horse, which will make her retain the Seed received the better, especially if you get on her back, and trot her about a quarter of an Hours space, but in any case have a care of heating, or straining her: and it will not be amiss, if after every such act you let them fast two Hours, and then give each of them a warm Mash; and tis odds but this way your Mares may be as well serv'd as the other, and yet your Stallion will last you much longer.

I shall say no more as to the keeping the Mares during the time of their being with Foale, nor of their foaling; only this, that if you take care to house them all the Winter, and to keep them well, their Colts will prove the better. When they are foaled, let them run with their Dams till Martin-mass, then wean them, and keep them in a convenient House, with a low Rack and Manger on purpose; litter them well, and feed them with good Hay, and Oats and Wheat-bran mix'd, which will make them drink, and belly well. The first year you may put them all together, but afterwards they must be separated, the Stone-Colts from the Fillies; and if you have choice of Houses, you may put Yearings together, Two years old together, and so Three years old together, for their better satisfaction and agreement; as little Children best agree together.

In a warm fair Day you may grant them liberty to run and scope in some enclosed Court or Back-side, but be sure to take care to put them up again carefully, that they be not hurt. When Summer is come, and there is plenty of Grass, put them out in some dry Ground, that hath convenient watring, and so let them run till Martinmass again: then house them as before, and order them in all points as older Horses, till they are full Five years old, then take them up for good and all, [Page] and let your Groom back them if he have skill, or else some skilful Rider. You may if you please just break your Fillies at Two years and half old, and let them be cover'd at Three; and by that means they will be so tame and gentle, as not to injure themselves or their Foals. But in case of sickness, or any accidental calamity, as Lameness, &c. you must then commit them to the Farrier's Care.

The reason why I propose the Housing of them every Winter, with dry Feeding and Lodging, is, that they may be the liker their Sire in Beauty and Shape. For the primary Cause of the sineness of Shape and Beauty in Horses is Heat, and dry Feeding. And this is prov'd from the several Races we have already mentioned, viz. the Spanish Horse, Barb, and Turkish Horse, all which Countreys are under an Hot Climate, and by consequence afford little Grass: Therefore in our more moderate and cold Countries we are to assist Nature by Art, and to supply the want of Heat by warm Housing, and dry Feeding. This is easily made evident by Example. For take two Colts begot by the same Sire, on Mares of equal Beauty, and house the one every Winter, and feed him as directed, and expose the Other, till they are Four years old, and fit to be back'd; and you shall find the former like his Sire in all respects, and the other fitter for the Cart than Hunting, as being a dull, heavy, flabby, scarce animated Clod; and all this proceeds from the Humidity of the Air and Earth. From hence you may infer, that 'tis not only Generation, but, as I may term it, Education, that makes a compleat Horse; and such yours will be, if you order them according to the former Directions; for you may with ease break the Colt that is by such good management made gentle, and half-back'd to your hand.

But I have dwelt longer on this Subject than I intended, my business being chiefly to inform the Groom [Page] (not the Master) what belong'd to his Office; and therefore I will wander no further from my purpose, but leave it to the Rider to follow his own Method in rendring Colts fit for his Masters Service: whilst I give some few Directions to those Gentlemen who will not bestow either trouble or charges on Breeding, or have the Will but not the Convenience to do it, how to elect an Horse fit for this Exercise.

The way for a Gentleman to furnish himfelf with an Horse, that may be worth training for Hunting, is either to enquire out some noted Breeder (of which there are many in the North,) or else to go to some famous Fair, as Malton and Rippon Fairs in Yorkshire, the former held on the 23. day of September yearly, and the latter on May day: Or to Richmonds in the same Shire, (which, as I am inform'd, does now of late years exceed both the fore-mention'd, being scituate in the middle of the most celebrated part of the breeding Country;) its Fairs are held in Easter week, and at Rood tyde. Northampton has several Fairs in the year likewise, as on the 23. day of April, the 8th. of September, 17th. of November, with several others. There are several other Fairs, as Lenton-Fair in Notinghamshire, Pankridg-Fair in Staffordshire, &c. which for brevities sake I omit. At any of these places he may make choice of a Horse, which as near as can be ought to have these following Shapes: viz.

His Head ought to be lean, large, and long; his Chaul thin, and open; his Ears small, and pricked, or if they be somewhat long, provided they stand upright like those of a Fox, it is usually a sign of Mettle and Toughness His Forehead long and broad, not flat, and as we term it Mare-fac'd, but rising in the midst like that of a Hare, the Feather being plac'd above the Top of his Eye, the contrary being thought by some to betoken blindness. His Eyes full, large, [Page] and bright; his Nostrils wide, and red within, for an open Nostril betokens a good Wind; his Mouth large, deep in the Wykes, and hairy; His Thropple, Weasand, or Windpipe, big, loose, and streight when he is rein'd in by the Bridle; for if, when he bridles, it bends in like a Bow, (which is called Cock-throppled) it very much hinders the free passage of his Wind His Head must be so set on to his Neck, that there must be a space felt between his Neck and his Chaul; for to be Bull-neck'd is uncomely to sight, and prejudicial to the Horses wind, as aforesaid. His Crest should be firm, thin, and well risen; his Neck long, and straight, yet not loose, and pliant, which the Northern-men term Withy-cragg'd; his Breast strong, and broad; his Chest deep, his Chine short, his Body large, and close shut up to the [...]ucklebone; his Ribbs round like a Barrel, his Belly being hid within them. His Fillets large, his Buttocks rather oval than broad being well let down to the Cascoins. His Cambrels upright, and not bending, which is called by some sickle-hough'd, though some hold it a sign of Toughness and Speed. His Legs clean, flat, and streight, His Joynts short, well knit, and upright, especially betwixt the Pasthorns and the Hoof, having but little Hair on his Fetlocks. His Hoofs black, strong, and hollow, and rather long and narrow, than big and flat. And lastly, his Main and Tail should be long, and thin rather than thick, which is counted by some a mark of Dulness.

As to his Colour and Marks, I rather incline to believe them grateful to the Eye, than any infallible Indexes of Goodness; for as the Goodness or Badness of a Man does not consist in his Complexion, but in his inward Vertues, so neither do Colour or Marks certainly demonstrate the Goodness or Badness of an Horse, because his Qualifications proceed from his inward Disposition.But yet I wholly dissent from the opinion [Page] of Mr. Morgan, p. 31; who holds, ‘That Colour and Marks are no more assurance of a good Horse; than the having a Feather in a Mans Hat does prove him a good Man or a bad;’ inferring that inherent Colours are of no greater Eminency or Value, than those external ones are which may be taken or laid aside at a man's own will and pleasure.

Now I say, that altho Marks and Colour do not absolutely give testimony unto us of a Horses goodness, yet they as well as his shape do intimate to us in some part his Disposition and Qualities. For Nature, not being defective, frames every part of the same matter whereof the whole is formed, and therefore the Foetus being formed of the copulative Seed of its Sire and Dam, does from them derive as well the accidental as the more essential Qualities of its temperament and composition. And for this Reason Hair it self may osten times receive the variation of its Colour from the different temperature of the Subject out of which it is produced. And to confirm this, I dare pass my word, that wherever you shall meet with an Horse that hath no White about him, especially in his Fore-head, though he be otherwise of the best reputed Colours, as Bay, Black, Sorrel &c. That Horse I dare affirm to be of a dogged and sullen disposition; especially if he have a small pink Eye, and a narrow Face, with a Nose bending like a Hawks Bill.

But yet I am not positive, that Horses even of the most celebrated Colours, and Marks answerable, do always prove the best; because I have seen those Horses worsted by Others, whose Marks and Colour have been esteemed the worst; as bright Sorrel, and Mouseblack with bald Faces, and all the Leggs white above the knee. But I rather attribute the Cause thereof to the Ignorance of the Rider, that had the training [Page] of those best marked Horses, than to any defect in Nature; for Nature is no Counterfeit, as Art often is, to make a thing shew to the Eye, contrary to what it is in reality. And therefore as I would not have men put too great Confidence in Marks and Colours; so I would not have them esteemed of so lightly, as the former comparison of Mr. Morgans would make them; for it is a constant and inseparable quality for Horses to produce Hair, which is given them by Nature as a Tegument and Defence against the Cold: and if it be shaved off, gall'd, or any waies else removed or taken away, yet it will grow again; but a Feather may be put to, or taken from a Mans Hat at his pleasure.

Therefore since Colour seemeth to set forth the Beauty of an Horse, you may for Ornament sake and to please your Eye, make choice of an Horse that is either a Brown-Bay, Dapple-Bay, Black, Sad-Chessnut with Flaxen Main and Tail, so that they have either a White Star, Blaze, or Snip, with a White Foot; Dapple-Grey, or White Lyard with Black Muzzle, Eye, and Ear. Any of these are reputed by most men to give a Grace to shape; tho in themselves they are no perfect signs of Goodness.

But for his internal Endowments, they are more material, and therefore take care that he by Nature be of a Gentle Disposition, to his Keeper tractable and docile free from those ill Qualities of Biting, Striking, Restiffness, Lying down in the Water, Starting, Running away with his Rider, Plunging, Leaping, &c. Not but that most, if not all these ill habits may be rectified by Art; For Experience has shewn us, that Horses which have not been of such a perfect Natural Composition, [Page] as might be desired, have yet been tempered by Art, and have not only been reclaimed from their vicious Habits, but have been likewise brought to great performance in Heats, as well as Hunting, as I could Instance in several if it were necessary.

And therefore since Art was invented to perfect Nature; if (notwithstanding your care) you have met with a Horse subject to any of these ill Qualities aforesaid, you must search into the causes of it, which Art will help you to discover and remove: and then the Cause being taken away, the Effect will cease. So that probably, contrary to most peoples Opinions a Vicious Horse, by good management and Government may be brought to excell an Horse that has a better Reputation and Fame in the judgment of the generality of Horsemen.

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CHAP. III. Of the Age a Hunter should be of before he be put to Hunting; of the Stable, and Groom, and of the Horse's first taking up from Grass, in order to his further Dieting.

HAving gotten a Horse answerable either to the former Descriptions, or your own Satisfaction at least, I am to suppose that by a skilful Rider he is already grounded in the Fundamentals of this Art, by being taught such Obedience, as that he will readily answer to the Horseman's Helps and Corrections both of the Bridle, the Hand, the Voice, the calf of the Leg, and the Spur; that he can tell how to take his way forward, and hath gained a true temper of Mouth, and a right placing of his Head, and that he hath learn'd to stop and turn readily; for without these things are perfectly taught, and as it were laid for a Foundation, he can never proceed effectually.

I had thoughts of enlarging upon this particular Subject, but I find my Discourse is like to swell beyond its bounds, so that I am forced to omit it, and therefore I shall refer you to the Directions and Prudence of your Rider, and only tell you that tis convenient, your Horse should be Five years old, and well way'd before you begin to Hunt him. For though it be a general Custom amongst noted Horsemen to train [Page] their Horses up to Hunting at Four years old, and some sooner, yet at that Age his Joynts not being full knit, nor he come to his best strength and courage, he is disabled from performing any matter of speed and toughness: and indeed being put to sore Labour and Toil so young, he runs a very great hazard of strains, and the putting out of Splents, Spavins, Curbs and Windgalls, besides the daunting of his Spirit, and abating his natural Courage, insomuch that he will become melancholly, stiff, and rheumatick, and have all the distempers of old Age, when it might be expected he should be in his Prime.

Your Horse then being full Five, you may if you please put him to grass from the middle of May till Bartholmew-tide, or at least from the middle of Summer till that time; for then the Season being so violently hot, it will not be convenient to work him: where whilst he is sporting himself at liberty in his Pasture, we will if you please take care to provide a good Stable for his Reception at his taking up, and a good Groom to look after him; both which are more essentially necessary to the Hunter than to other Horses, which require not that exact care in keeping.

First then as to the Stable, I could wish every Gentleman would be careful to scituate it in a good Air, and upon hard dry and firm ground, that in the Winter the Horse may go and come clean in and out: and if possible let it be seated on an Ascent, that the Urine, Foul Water, or any Wet, may be convey'd away by Trenches, or Sinks cut out for that purpose. Be sure to suffer no Hen-houses, Hog-styes, or Houses of Easment, or any other filthy Smells to be near it; for Hen-dung, or Feathers swallow'd, oftentimes prove mortal, and the ill Air of a Jakes as often is the cause of Blindness: likewise the very smell of Swine will frequently breed the Farcy, and no Animal whatsoever [Page] more delights in cleanliness, or is more offended at unwholesome savours than the Horse.

Let vour Stable be built of Brick, rather than Stone, since the latter is subject to sweating in wet weather: which Dampness and Moisture is the Original of Rheums, and Catarrhs. Let your Wall be of a good convenient thickness, as about Eighteen or Twenty Inches thick, both for safety and warmth in Winter, and to keep the Sun from annoying him in Summer, which would hinder Concoction. You may (if you please) make Windows both on the East and North sides, that you may have the benefit of the Air during Summer, from the North, and of the Morning Sun during Winter from the East. And I would advise you to Glaze your Windows, and make them with Sashes, to let in Air at pleasure, and to keep out Poultry, for the reasons afore recited; and likewise to make close Wooden shutters, that during the middle time of the Day the Stable may be dark, which will cause him to take his Rest as well in the Day as the Night. Let your Floor, (I mean that part on which he is alwaies to stand, or lye down on, be made of Oaken Planks, and not pitch'd, for tis easier and warmer for the Horse to ly on Boards than Stones. be sure to lay them level; for if they are laid higher before than behind (as they generally are in Inns and Horse-coursers Stables, that their Horses may appear to more advantage in Stature,) his hinder-leggs will swell, and he can never lye at ease, because his Hinder parts will be still slipping down. Lay your Planks cross-way, & not at length; and underneath them sink a good Trench, which receiving the Urine thro holes bor'd on purpose in the Planks, may convey it into some common receptacle. Let the ground behind him be raised even with the Planks, that he may continually [Page] stand on a Levell. Let the Floor behind him be pitcht with small Pebble: and be sure let that part of your Stable where the Rack stands be well Wainscoted. I would have two Rings placed at each side of his Stall, for his Halter to run through; which must have a light wooden Logger at the bottom of it, to poise it perpendicularly; but not so heavy as to tire the Horse, or to hinder him from eating. Instead of a fix'd Manger, I would have you have a Locker, or Drawer, made in the Wainscote partition, for him to eat his Corn out of, which you may take in and out to cleanse at pleasure. And whereas some may object the narrowness of the Room, you may remedy that at your pleasure, by allowing it to be the larger: tho considering the small Quantity of Provender, you are to put in at a time, (as you see hereafter) you need not make it very large. I would not advise you to make any Rack, but instead thereof (according to the Italian fashion) to give your Horse his Hay on the ground, upon the Litter; or else you may (if you please) nail some Boards in the form of a Trough, in which you may put his Hay, and the Boards will prevent him from trampling and spoiling it.

Some possibly may object, that this way of Feeding him, may spoil his Crest, and that the blowing upon his Hay will soon make it nauseous to his Palate. For the spoiling his Crest, it rather strengthens it, and makes it firm, whereas, on the contrary, to lift up his Head high to the Rack will make him withycragged: but the way forementioned, he will feed as he lyes, which will be for his ease and satisfaction. As to the quantity of his Hay, you are to give it him in such small Proportions, (tho the oftener) that it may be eaten before his Freath can in the least have tainted it. But the chief Reason why I [Page] advise you to this way is this, because the receiving his Hay down upon the Ground, will help to cleanse his Head from any Rheum or Dose, which he may have gotten by negligence and over-exercise and induce him by sneezing to throw out all manner of watry humors that may annoy his Head. If your Stable will allow, you may build several Partitions of Boards, and at the Head towards the Manger let them be advanc'd to that height that one Horse may not molest or smell to another; and so divide the Whole into as many equal Stands or Staulls as it will admit of; allowing to each, Room enough to turn about in, and lie down at pleasure. You may make one of your Staulls close, which may serve for your Groom to lie in, in case of a Match, Sickness, &c. and where he may burn Candle without the Horse's discerning of it. Behind the Horses I would have a Range of Presses made with Peggs in them to hang up Saddles, Bridles, Housing-cloaths, &c. as likewise Shelves to place your Curry-combs, Brushes, Dusting-cloaths, Oyntments, Waters, or any other Necessaries upon.

Now that you may not cumber your Stable with Oat-Binns, I think it necessary to tell you, that the best way is to make use of the Invention of Mr. Farmer of Tusmore in Oxford-shire. Which is done (according as it is described by the Ingenuous Dr. Plot, in his Natural History of Oxford-shire) ‘by letting the Oats down from a Loft above, out of a Vessel like the Hopper of a Mill, whence they fall into a square Pipe let into the wall, of about four Inches Diagonal, which comes down into a Cupboard also set into the wall, but with its end so near the bottom that there shall never be above a Gallon, or other desireable Quantity in the Cupboard at a time, which being taken away and given to the Horses, another Gallon presently succeeds; so that in the lower part of the [Page] Stable, where the Horses stand, there is not one Inch of room taken up for the whole provision of Oats; which Contrivance hath also this further Convenience, that by this Motion the Oats are kept constantly sweet, (the taking away one Gallon moving the whole Mass above,) which laid up any otherwise in great quantities, grow frequently musty.’

Now I would have you have two made, the one for the Oats, the other for your split Beans, and both let into your Range of Presses; the Partitions may easily be made over head, to separate your Oats from your Beans. Or if you like not this way, you may convert it into an Hay-loft, or Chambers for your Grooms, which you fancy; but whatever you make choice of, let the Floor overhead be seil'd, that no Dust from above fall upon your Horses. But if you have the convenience of a Rick-yard, so that you keep your Hay abroad, it is the opinion of some knowing Horsemen, that to tuck it out of the Rick by little and little, as you have occasion to use it, makes it spend much better than it would otherwise do out of the Hay-Tallet.

As to the rest of its Perquisites, a Dung. yard, a Pump, or a Conduit, are necessary; and if you can have that convenience, some Pond or running River near hand. But be sure, never let the Front of your Stable be without Litter, that by frequent practice your Horse may learn to empty his Bladder when he is come from Airing, which will be both healthful for your Horse, and profitable for your Land.

Having thus laid down a Modell for a Stable, my next business is to tell the Groom his Duty; I mean not those which generally appertain to all Servants, such as are Obedience, Fidelity, Patience, Diligence &c. but those more essentially belonging to this Office. First then he must love his Horse in the next degree [Page] to his Master, and to endeavour by fair Usage to acquire a reciprocal Love from him again, and an exact Obedience, which if he know how to pay it to his Master, he will the better be able to teach it his Horse; and both the one and the other are to be obtain'd by fair means, rather than by Passion and Outrage. For those who are so irrational themselves, as not to be able to command their own Passions, are not fit to undertake the reclaiming of an Horse, (who by nature is an irrational Creature) from his.

He must then put in practice that Patience, which I would have him Master of, at all times, and by that and fair means he shall attain his End: For nothing is more tractable than an Horse, if you make use of Kindness to win him. Next, Neatness is requisite in a Groom, to keep his Stable clean swept and in order; his Saddles, Housing-cloaths, Stirrops, Leathers, and Girths, cleane, and above all his Horse clean dress'd and rubb'd. Diligence in the last place is requisite both in a daily practice of his Duty, and in observing any the smallest Alteration whether casual or accidental, either in his Countenance, as Symptoms of Sickness, or in his Limbs and Gate, as Lameness, or in his Appetite, as forsaking his Meat, and immediately upon any such Discovery to seek out for Remedy. This is the substance of the Groom's Duty in general, and which I shall treat of more at large as Occasion shall offer it self.

In the mean time since Bartholomew-tide is now come, and the pride and strength of the Grass nipp'd by the severe Frosts, and cold Dews which accompany this Season, so that the Nourishment thereof turneth into raw Crudities, and the Coldness of the Night (which is an Enemy to the Horse) abates as much Flesh and Lust as he getteth in the Day, we will now take him up from Grass whilst his Coat lies smooth and sleek.

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Having brought him home, let your Groom so that Night set him up in some secure and spacious House, where he may evacuate his Body, and so be brought to warmer keeping by Degrees; the next day stable him. But tho it be held as a general Rule amongst the generality of Grooms, not to cloath or; dress their Horses, till Two or Three days after their stabling, I can find no Reason but Custom to perswade one to it; But it being little conducive either to the advantage or prejudice of the Horse, I shall leave it to their own Fancies: But as to the giving of Wheat-straw, to take up his Belly, (a custom us'd by Grooms generally at the Horse's first Housing,) I am utterly averse from it. For the Nature of a Horse being hot and dry, if he should feed on Straw, which is so likewise, it would straighten his Guts, and cause an Inflammation of the Liver, and by that means distemper the Blood; and besides it would make his Body so costive, that it would cause a Retention of Nature, and make him dung with great pain and difficulty; whereas full Feeding would expell the Excrements, according to the true Intention and Inclination of Nature. Therefore let moderate Airing, warm Cloathing, good old Hay, and old Corn, supply the place of Wheat-straw.

To begin then methodically, that your Groom may not be to seek in any part of his Duty, I shall acquaint him, that his first business is, after he hath brought his Horse into the Stable, in the morning to water him, and then to rub over his Body with a hard Wisp a little moisten'd, and then with a woollen cloath, then to cleanse his Sheath with his wet hand from all the Dust it had contracted during his Running, and to wash his Yard either with White-wine, or Water. Then he may trim him according to the manner that other Horses are trimm'd, except the inside of his [Page] Ears, which (though some still continue that fashion) ought not to be meddled with, for fear of making him catch cold.

When this is done, let him have him to the Farrier, and there get a Sett of Shoos answerable to the shape of his Foot, and not to pare his Foot that it may fit his Shoo, as too many Farriers do, not only in Brabant and Flanders, but here likewise. Be sure let his Feet be well open'd betwixt the Quarters and the Thrush, to prevent Hoof-binding; and let them be open'd straight, and not side-ways, for by that means in two or three Shooings, his Heels (which are the strength of his Feet) will be cut quite away. Pare his Foot as hollow as you can, and then the Shoo will not press upon it. The Shoo must come near to the Heel, yet not be set so close as to bruise it; nor yet so open as to catch in his Shoos, if at any time he happen to over-reach, and so hazard the pulling them off, the breaking of his Hoof, or the bruising of his Heel. The Webbs of the Shoos must be neither too broad, nor too narrow, but of a middle size, about the breadth of an inch, with slop'd Spunges; and even with his Foot; for though it would be for the advantage of the Travelling Horse's Heel, to have the Shoo sit a little wider than the Hoof, on both sides, that the Shoo might bear his Weight, and not his Foot touch the ground; yet the Hunter being often forc'd to gallop on rotten spungy Earth, to have them larger would hazard Laming, and pulling off his Shoos, as hath been shown before.

There is an Old Proverb, Before behind, and Behind before; that is, in the Fore-feet the Veins lie behind, and in the Hinder-feet they lie before. Therefore let the Farrier take care that he prick [Page] him not, but leave a space at the Heel of the Fore-feet, and a space between the Nails at the Toe. When your Shoo is set on according to this Direction, you will find a great deal of his Hoof left to be cut off at his Toe. When that is cut off, and his Feet smooth'd with a Filé, you will find him to stand so firm, and his Feet will be so strong, that he will tread as boldly on Stones as on Carpet-ground.

By that time he is shod, I presume 'twill be time to water him, therefore rake him to the River, and let him, after he has drank, stand some time in the Water, which will close up the holes (according to the opinion of some Horsemen) which the driving of the Nails made. Then have him gently home, and having ty'd him up to the Rack, rub him all over Body and Legs with dry Straw; then stop his Feet with Cow-dung, sift him a Quarter of a Peck of clean old Oats, and give them to him; then litter him, and leave him a sufficient Quantity of old Hay to serve him all Night, and so leave him till the next Morning.

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CHAP. IV. How to order the Hunter for the first Fortnight.

I presume by this your Horse will have evacuated all his Grass, and his Shoes will be so well setled to his Feet, that he may be fit to be rid abroad to Air without danger of surbating. Therefore 'tis now necessary that I begin in a more particular manner to direct our unexperienc'd Groom how he ought to proceed to order his Horse according to Art.

First then you are to visit your Horse early in the Morning, to wit, by Five a Clock if in Summer, or Six, if in Winter, and having put up his Litter under his Stall, and made clean your Stable, you shall then feel his Ribs, his Chaule and his Flank, for those are the cheif signes by which you must learn to judge of the good, or evil state of your Horses body, as I shall now shew you.

Lay your Hands on the lower part of his shortribs, near the Flank, and if you feel his Fat to be exceeding soft and tender, and to yield as it were under your hand, than you may be confident it is unsound, and that the least violent Labour, or Travail will dissolve it: which being dissolv'd, e're it be hardned by good Dyet, if it be not then remov'd by scouring, the Fat or grease belonging to the outward parts of the Body will fall down into his Heels, and [Page] so cause gowtiness and swelling. I need not trouble you with the outward signs of this Distemper, they are evident to the Eye: but tho every Groom can inform you when a Horse is said to have the grease fallen into his Heels, yet may be he cannot instruct you in the cause why Travail disperseth it for a time, and when the Horse is cold it returns with more violence than before. The reason therefore is this: The Grease which by indiscreet Exercise, and negligence in keeping is melted and fallen into his Legs, standing still in the Stable cools and congeals, and so unites it self with other ill Humours, which flow to the affected part, so that they stop the natural Circulation of the Blood, and cause inflamations, and swellings as aforesaid but Travail producing warmth in his Limbs thaws as it were the congeal'd Humours, and disperses them throughout the Body in general; till Rest gives them opportunity to unite and settle again. Now tho most Grooms are of opinion that this Distemper is not to be prevented by care or caution, that when it has once seaz'd a horse it remains incureable; yet they are mistaken in both, for by Art it may be prevented, and by Art cured: altho the cure is so difficult to be wrought, that a Groom cannot be too careful to prevent it.

As for the nward Grease which is in his Stomack, Bag, and Guts, if when once' melted it be not remov'd by Art, Medicine and good keeping, it putrifies, and breeds those mortal Diseases, which inevitably destroy the Horse, tho it be half a year or three quarters of a year after. And this is generally the source of most Feavers, Surfeits, Consumptions, &c. and such other Distempers which carry off infinite numbers of horses, for want of the Farriers knowledge in the first Causes of the Distemper: which to prevent you shall follow the ensuing Directions.

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After by feeling on his Ribs you have found his Fat soft and unsound; you shall feele his Chaule, and if you find any fleshy substance, or great round Kirnells or Knots, you may be assured that, as his outward Fat is unsound, so inwardly he is full of glut, and pursive, by means of gross and tough Humours cleaving to the hollow places of the Lungs stopping so his Windpipe that his Wind cannot find free passage, nor his Body be capable of much Labour. Therefore the chief end and Intention of Art is by good sound Food to enseame and harden his Fat, and by moderate Exercise, warm cloathing, and gentle Phisick to cleanse away his inward Glut, that his Wind, and other parts being freed from all grossness, his courage and activity in any labour or service may appear to be more than redoubled.

The same Observations you must make from his Flank, which you will find alwaies to correspond, with the Ribs and Chaule, for till he is drawn clean it will feel thick to your gripe, but when he is enseam'd, you will perceive nothing but two thin skins; and by these three Observations of the Ribs, Flank, and Chaps, you may, at any time pass an indifferent judgment of your Horses being in a good condition or a bad.

When you have made these Remarks, you shall sift your Horse a handful or two (and no more) of good old sound Oates, and give them to him, to preserve his Stomack from cold Humours that might oppress it by drinking fasting, and likewise to make him drink the better. When he hath eaten them, pull off his Coller, and rub his Head, Face, Ears, and Nape of the Neck with a clean Rubbing Cloth made of Hemp, for 'tis soveraign for the Head, and dissolveth all gross and filthy Humours. Then [Page] take a small Snaffle, and wash it in fair water, and put it on his head, drawing the Reins through the Headstall, to prevent his slipping it over his head, and so tye him up to the Rack, and dress him thus;

First in your Right-hand take a Curry-Comb suitable to your Horses skin, (as if your horses coat be short and smooth, then must the Curry-Comb be blunt, but if long and rough, then must the Teeth be long and and sharp, standing with your Face opposite to the Horses, hold the Left cheek of the Headstall in your Left-hand, and Curry him with a good hard hand from the Root of his Ears, all a long his Neck to his Shoulders: then go over all his Body with a more moderate hand, then Curry his Buttocks down to the hinder Cambrell with an hard hand again: then change your hand, and laying your Right Arm over his Back, joyn your right-side to his left, and so Curry him gently from the top of his Withers, to the lower part of his shoulder, ever now and then fetching your stroke over the left side of his breast, and so Curry him down to Knee, but no further: Then Curry him all under his Belly, near his Fore-bowels, and in a word all over very well, his Legs under the Knees and Cambrels only excepted. And as you dress'd the left-side, so must you the right likewise.

Now by the way take notice, whether your Horse keeps a riggling up and down, biting the Rackstaves, and now and then offering to snap at you, or lifting up his Leg to strike at you, when you are Currying him: if he do 'tis an apparent sign of his displeasure by reason of the sharpness of the Comb, and therefore you must file the Teeth thereof more blunt: but if you perceive that he plays these, or such like Tricks through Wantonness and [Page] the Pseasure he takes in the Friction, then you shall ever now and then correct him with your Whip gently for his Waggishness.

This Currying is only to raise the Dust, and therefore after you have thus curried him, you must take either a Horse-tail (nail d to an Handle) or a clean dusting-Cloath of Cotten, and with it strike off the loose Dust rais'd by your Curry-comb Then dress him all over with the French-Brush, both Head, Body, and Legs to the very Fet-locks, observing always to cleanse the Brush from the filth it gathers from the bottom of the Hair, by rubbing it on the curry-comb. Then dust him the second time. Then with your Hand wet in water rub his body all over, and as near as you can leave no loose hairs behind you; and with your wet hands pick and cleanse his Eys, Ears, Nostrils, Sheath, Cods, and Tuel, and so rub him till he be as dry as at first. Then take an Hair-patch, and rub his Body all over, but especially his Fore-bowels under his Belly, his Flank, and between his hinder Thighs. Lastly, wipe him over with a fine white linnen Rubber.

When you have thus drest him, take a large Saddle-cloath (made on purpose,) that may reach down to the Spurring-place, and lap it about his Body; then clap on his Saddle, and throw a cloth over him for fear of catching cold. Then take two Ropes of Straw twisted extream hard together, and with them rub and chafe his Legs from the Knees and Cambrels downwards to the Ground, picking his Fetlock-joynts with your hands from Dust, Filth, and Scabs. Then take another Hair-patch kept on purpose for his Legs, (for you must have two) and with it rub and dress his Legs also.

Now by the way let me give you this necessary [Page] Caution, be sure whilst you are dressing your Horse let him not stand naked, his Body being expos'd to the penetration of the Air, whilst you are telling a Banbury-story to some Comrades, that accidentally come into the Stable, as I have seen some Grooms, that would stand lolling over their Horses, when they were uncloath'd, and trifle away their time by listning to some idle Discourse; but when you have stripp'd him fall to your Business roundly, without any intermission till you have sadled him, and thrown his Cloth over him.

And the reason why I advise you to throw a Cloth over him, whilst you are dressing his Legs is this; that although tis a general Rule amongst Grooms, that an Horse cannot take cold whilst he is dressing, yet is that Saying to be understood only of his Body, not of his Legs; for the rubbing of his Legs will not prevent catching cold in his Body

When this is done, you shall with an Iron Picker pick his Feet clean, (that the stopping of his Feet may not be a means of his taking up Stones in them,) comb down his Main and Tail with a wet Main-comb, then spirt some Beer into his Mouth, and so draw him out of the Stable.

Being mounted, rake or walk him to some Running River, or fresh clear Spring, distant a Mile or two from your Stable, (which will refine his Mouth which he may have lost, during his Summers Running, and will likewise settle his Body upon his Rake,) and there let him drink about half his draught at first, to prevent raw Crudities arising in his Stomach. After he hath drunk bring him calmly out of the Water, and so ride him gently for a while; for nothing is more unbeseeming a Horseman, than to thrust his Horse into a swift Gallop, as soon as he comes out of the Water, for these three Causes. First, it is not [Page] only hazards the breaking of his Wind, but also assuredly endanges the incording, or bursting of him. Secondly, it begets in him an ill habit of running away, as soon as he hath done drinking. Lastly, the foresight he hath of such violent Exercise, makes him oftentimes refuse to quench his Thirst: and therefore (as I said) first walk him a little way, and then put him into a gentle Gallop for 5 or 6 score, then give him wind: and after he hath been rak'd a pretty space, then shew him the Water again, and let him drink what he pleases, and then gallop him again; and thus do till he will drink no more, but be sure to observe always that you gallop him not so much as either to chafe, or sweat him.

Now by the way observe, that in his galloping after water, (after the first weeks enseaming,) if sometimes you give him a watering Course sharply, of twelve or twenty score, (as you find your Horse,) it will quicken his spirits, and cause him to gallop more pleasantly, and teach him to mannage his Limbs more nimbly, and to stretch forth his Body largely.

When your Horse hath done drinking, then rake him to the Top of the next Hill, (if there be any near your Watring-place,) for there in the morning the Air is purest, or else to some such place, as he may gain best advantage both of Sun and Air, and there air him a foot-pace an hour, or so long as you (in your discretion) shall think sufficient for the state of his Body, and then ride him home.

During the time of your Horses Airing, you will easily perceive several marks of your Horses satisfaction, and the pleasure which he takes in this Exercise. For he will gape, yawn, and as it were shrug his Body. If he offer to stand still, to dung, or stale, which his Airing will provoke, be sure give him leave, as likewise to stare about, neigh, or listen after any noise.

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Now Airing brings several Advantages to the Horse. First, it purifies the Blood, (if the Air be clean and pure,) it purges the Body from many gross and suffocating Humors, and so hardens and enseams the Horses Fat, that it is not near so liable to be dissolv'd by ordinary Exercise. Secondly, it teaches him how to let his Wind rake equally and keep time with the other Actions or Motions of his Body. Thirdly, it sharpens the Appetite, and provokes the Stomach, (which is of great advantage both to Hunters and Gallopers, who are apt to loose their Stomach through excess or want of Exercise): for the sharpness of the Air will drive the Horses natural Heat from the exterior to the interior parts, which Heat by furthering Concoction creates an Appetite. Lastly, it increases Lust and Courage in him, provided he not too early air'd.

But whereas Mr. Markam, in his Way to get wealth, 4o. pag. 44. directs, if your Horse be very fat to air him before Sun-rise, and after Sun-set; and that the Author of the Gentleman's Jockey, 8o. pag. 14. says, that nothing is more wholsome than early and late Airings; I think the contrary may be made out from Experience. For in this Art, all things that any ways hinder the strength and vigor of Nature, are to be avoided; now, that extreamity of Cold, and being out early and late do so, is evidently seen by Horses that run abroad all Winter, which however hardily bred, and kept with the best care and Fodder, yet cannot by any means be advanc'd to so good case in Winter as an indifferent Pasture will raise them to in Summer. And this holding true of the Nocturnal Colds, must needs be verified in some proportionate measure of the Morning and Evening Dews, and that piercing Cold which is observ'd to be more intense at the opening and close of the Day, than any [Page] part of the Night. Besides that, the Dews and moist Rimes do as much Injury to a Horse, as the sharpest Colds or Frosts: since (as I have found by experience) a Horse any ways inclinable to Catarrhs, Rheums, or any other cold Distempers, is apt to have the Humors augmented, and the disease most senbsily increasd by these early and late Airings.

But if he be not had forth to aire till the Sun be risen, (as you must cast to have him dress'd, and ready to lead forth against that time) his spirits will be chear'd and comforted by that universal Comforter of all living Creatures; and indeed all Horses naturally desire to enjoy the Sun's warmth, as you may observe by those Horses which lie out all Night, who as soon as the Sun is risen, will repair to those places where they may have the most benefit of his Beams, and by them be in part reliev'd from the coldness of the foregoing Night. And besides the benefit of the Sun, the Air will be so mild and temperate, as it will rather invigorate than prey upon his spirits, and more increase his Strength than impair it

Neither, tho we disallow of Early and Late airings, need we be at a loss to bring down our Horses fat, and from being pursive, and too high in Flesh, to reduce him to cleanness, and a more moderate state of Body: For if you do but observe this one Rule of keeping a fat Horse so much longer out at a time both Morning and Evening, you will undoubtedly obtain your end by such long Airing, joyn'd with true sound Heats, which you may expect indeed, but will never find from those that are shorter, how early and late soever: for this Method joyn'd with good feeding is the best Prescription can be given in this case, and tis from the length of your Airings only, that you must hope to bring your Horse to a perfect Wind, and true Courage. And therefore a Horse that is high in Flesh, is a fitter subject to work on, than [Page] One that is low, because he is better able to endure Labour, whereas the other must of necessity be so favoured in training, to improve his Strength and Flesh, that he is in danger (without he be under the care of a very Skilful keeper) of proving thick wind ed for want of true Exercise in Training.

When you are returned from Airing, and are dismounted, lead your Horse on the Straw, which (as I told you before) should always lye before the Stable door; and there by Whistling and stirring up the Litter under his Belly will provoke him to Stale, which a little practice will bring him to, and is advantagious for the Horses Health, and the keeping of your Stable clean; Then lead him into his Staul (which ought likewise to be well littered) and having ty'd up his head to the empty Rack, take off his Saddle, rubb his Body and Leggs all over with the French-brush, then with the Hair-patch, and last of all with the Woollen cloath.

Then you shall cloath him with a Linnen cloath next to his Body, and over that a Canvas cloath, and both made so fit as to cover his Breast and to come pretty low down to his Legs, which is the Turkish way of Cloathing, who are the most curious People (sales the Duke of Newcaslle) in keeping their Horses, and esteem them the most of any Nation. Over the forementioned put a Body-cloath of six, or eight Straps, which is better than a Sircingle and Pad stuft with wisps, because this keeps his Belly in Shape, and is not so subject to hurt him.

Now these Cloathes will be sufficient for him at his first Stabling, because being inur'd to the cool Air he will not be so apt to take cold, the weather likewise at that season being indifferently warm; but when sharp weather approaches, and that you find his Hair rise about his outward parts that are [Page] uncloathed, as Neck, Gascoins, &c. then add another Cloath, which ought to be of Woolen, and for any Horse bred under this Climate, and kept only for ordinary Hunting, this is cloathing sufficient.

Now the design of cloathings is only by their help joyn'd to the warmth of the Stable, and the Litter (which must alwaies lye under the Horse) to keep his Body in such a moderate Natural Heat, as shall be sufficient to assist Nature, that skilful Physitian in expelling her Enemies, by dissolving those raw and gross Humours which are subject to annoy the Horse, and which would very much prejudice him if they were not removed; which warm cloathing does in a great measure by dispersing them into the outward parts, and expelling them by sweating as he sleeps and lyes down, which will be a meanes to purge his Body, and keep it clean from glut, and redundant Humours.

But yet (as in all things the golden mean is best) there is a meane to be observ'd too here: for as too few Cloathes will not assist Nature sufficiently in the expulsion of her Enemies, so too many will force her too much, and cause weakness in your Horse by too violent sweatings. Therefore you must have a care of following the Example of some ignorant Grooms, who because they have acquired a false Reputation by living in some Noblemans or Gentlemans Service, that are noted Sportsmen, think they are able to give Laws to all their Fraternity, and therefore without any reason heap Multiplicity of Cloaths on the Horse as if they meant to bury him in Woolen. You must know, that both the temperature of the Weather and the State of his Body are to be observed; and that all Horses are not to be cloathed alike. Your fine-Skined Horses, as the Barb, Turk, Spanish horse &c. require more clothes then our English common [Page] Horses, that are bred in a colder climate, and have naturally thicker skin's, and a longer Coat. But that you may not erre I have told you already how you are to cloath your Horse, and therefore shall only add this one General Rule, That a Rough Coat shews want of Cloaths, and a Smooth Coat Cloathing sufficient: ever observing, that by his Countenance, his Dung, and other outward Characters (which I shall by and by give you more at large) you perceive your Horse to to be in health, and yet notwithstanding your Horses Coat still stares, you must add more cloathes till it lye; as on the other hand if it will lye withe the assist- of a single Linnen Cloath it is sufficient.

But if when he has been in keeping some time, you perceive him apt to sweat in the Night, 'tis a sign that he is over-fed, and wants exercise: but if he sweat at his first coming from Grass, you must know that there is cause rather to encrease, than diminish the Cloathes I have alloted at his first Housing; for it proceeds from the foul humours which oppress Nature, and when by exercise they are evacuated, Nature will cease working, and he will continue in a temperate state of Body all the year after.

When he is cloath'd up, pick his Feet cleane with an Iron Picker, and wash his Hoofs clean with a Spung dipt in fair watet, and then dry them with Straw or a Linnen cloath, and if there be occasion and that you find your Horses, Legs durty, you may bathe them likewise, only you must be sure to rub them dry before you go out of your Stable, then leave him on his Snaffle for an hour, or more, which will assist his Appetite.

When an Hour is expired, you shall come to him again, and having tuck'd an handful of Hay, and [Page] dusted it, you shall let your Horse tease it out of your hand till he hath eaten it; then pull off his Bridle, and having rub'd his Head and Neck clean, with the Hempen-cloth, as before, pull his Eares, and stop his Nostrils to make him snore, which will help to bring away the moist Humours which oppress his Brain, and then put on his Coller, and give him a Quarter of Oats clean drest, in a Sive, having first made his Locker, or Manger clean with a Wispe of Straw, and a Cloth.

Whilst he is eating his Corn, you shall sweep out your Stable, and see that all things are neat about him, and turning up his Cloaths, you shall rub his Fillets, Buttocks, and Gascoins over with the hairpatch, and after that with a Woolen-cloth; then spread a clean Flannel Fillet-cloth over his Fillets and Buttocks (which will make his Coat lye smooth) and turn down his Housing-cloaths upon it. Then anoint his Hoofs round from the Cronet to the Toe with this Ointment, viz.

Take Four Ounces of Venice Turpentine, Three Ounces of Bees wax, Two Ounces of the best Rosin, One pound of Dogs-grease, Half a Pint of Train Oyle, Melt all these Ingredients (except the Turpentine) together, being melted remove them from the Fire, and then put in the Turpentine, and keep it stirring, till all be well incorporated, then put it in a Gally pot, and when it is cold cover it close from dust, and reserve it for use.

After this pick his Feet with an Iron Picker, and stop them with Cow-dung; and by this time your Horse (if he be not a very slow Feeder) will have eaten his Oates, which if you find he does with a good Stomack, sift him another Quart, and throw them [Page] to feed him by little and little, whilst he eats with an Appetite; but if he fumbles with his Corn, then give him no more at that time.

And this I think a better Direction than to prescribe a set quantity of Provender, as all Authors I have yet met with have done. For without doubt no certain Quantity of Meat can be allotted for all sorts of Horses, any more than for all sorts of Men; and therefore proportion the quantity to the Horses Appetite: but be sure at all times give him his full feeding, for that will keep his Body in better state and temper, and increase his strength and vigor. Whereas on the contrary, to keep your Horse always sharp-set, is the ready way to procure a Surfeit, if at any time he can come at his fill of Provender; according to the common Proverb, Two hungry Meales make the third a Glutton. But tho you perceive he gather Flesh too fast upon such home-feeding; yet be sure not to stint him for it, but only increase his Labour, and that will assist both his Strength and Wind.

When these things are done, you shall dust a pretty of Hay, and throw it down to him on his Litter, after you have taken it up under him; and then shutting up the Windows and Stable door, leave him till One a Clock in the Afternoon; at which time you shall come to him, and having rubb'd over his Head, Neck, Fillets, Buttocks, and Legs, as before, with the Hair-patch and Woollen-cloath, you shall feed him as before, and then leave him till the time of his Evening watring, (which should be about three of the clock in Winter, and four in Summer;) and then having put back his foul Litter, and swept away that and his Dung, you shall dress and saddle him as before, and mounting him you shall rake him to the water, and [Page] after drinking and galloping you shall air him along by the River side, till you think it time to go home; then order him in all points, as to rubbing, feeding, stopping his Feet, &c. as you did in the morning; and having fed him at six a clock, be sure feed him again about Nine; and having litter'd him well, and thrown him Hay enough to serve him for all Night, you shall leave him till the next Morning. And as you have spent this day, so you must order him in all respects for a fortnight together, and by that time his Flesh will be so harden'd, and his Wind so improv'd; his Mouth will be so quicken'd, and his Gallop brought to so good a stroke, that he will be fit to be put to moderate Hunting.

Now during this Fortnights keeping you are to make several Observations, as to the Nature and Disposition of your Horse, the temper of his Body, the course of his Digestion, &c. and order him accordingly. As first, if he be of a churlish Disposition, you must reclaim him by Severity; if of a loving temper, you must win him by Kindness. Secondly, you must observe whether he be a foul Feeder, or of a nice Stomach; if he be quick at his Meat, and retain a good Stomach, then four times of full Feeding, in a Day and a Nights space, is sufficient; but if he be a slender Feeder, and slow at his Meat, then you must give but a little at once, and often, as about every two hours, for fresh Meat will draw on his Appetite; and you must always leave a little Meat in his Locker for him to eat at his own leisure betwixt the times of his Feeding; and when at any time you find any left, you shall sweep it away, and give him fresh, and expose that to the Sun and Air, which will prevent mustiness and reduce it to its first sweetness, before it was blown upon.

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Now as to the manner of Feeding, you may sharpen his Stomach by change of Meat, as giving one Meal clean Oats, another Oats and split-Beans, and (when you have brought him to eat Bread) you may give him another meal of Bread, always observing to give him oftenest that which he likes best; or if you please you may give him both Corn and Bread at the same time, provided you give him that last which he eats best, and which has the best Digestion.

Tis observ'd of some Horses, that they are of so hot a Constitution, that without they may drink at every bit they cannot eat, and those Horses usually carry no Belly; in this case therefore you must let a Pale of Water stand continually before them, or at least offer them Water at Noon, besides what they fetch abroad at their ordinary times.

Next you are to observe the nature of his Digestion, that is, whether he retains his Food long, which is the sign of a bad Digestion; or whether Nature does expel the Dung more frequently; which if he do, and that his Dung be loose and bright tis a sign of a good habit of Body; but if he dung hard, and seldom, then on the contrary tis a sign of a dry Body; and therefore to remedy this, you shall once in a day give him a handful or two of Oats, well wash'd in good strong Ale, for this will loosen his Body, and keep it moist, and you will sind it also good for his Wind, notwithstand-the opinion of some to the contrary.

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CHAP V. Of the Second Fortnights Diet, and of his first Hunting, and what Chases are most proper to Train him.

BY that time you have spent this Fortnight, according to the foregoing Rules, your Horse will be in a pretty good state of Body; for the gross Humors will be dry'd in his Body, and his Flesh will begin to be harden'd, which you will perceive (as I told you at first) by his Chaul, his short Ribs, and his Flank; for the Kernels under his Chaps will not feel so gross as at first they did, his flesh on his short Ribs will not feel so soft and loose, nor the thin part of his Flank so thick as at his first housing; so that now you may without hazard adventure to hunt him moderately.

But before I proceed, I think it necessary to clear one point, which I have heard much discuss'd amongst Horsemen, which is, What sort of Chase is most proper for the training of a young Horse? some being of one Opinion, some of another. For some would have a Horse, which is design d either for a Buck-hunter or Fox-hunter, us'd from the beginning to the Chase which they are design'd for. Others think those Chases too violent for a young. Horse, and therefore chuse to train him after Harriers; and of this Opinion I must own my self to be, since Exporience has fully shewn me the Advantages of the one, and the Inconveniences [Page] of the other. Now to prove this Assertion, let us take a slight view of the several Chases which are commonly used by our Nobility and Gentry, where the Horse is made a Companion and Member of the Sport, and they are these; the Stag, Buck, Hind, Fox, Otter, and Hare.

As for the three first here mention'd, as there is not much difference in the hunting of them, so the Inconveniences from each Chase are in a manner the same also. For which soever you hunt, tis either in Covert, or at force. Now if Deer be hunted in a Park, they usually chuse the most woody parts of it, as a Refuge from the pursuits of their Enemies, which is both unpleasant to the Rider, and troublesome to the Horse, to follow the Dogs thro the thick Bushes; and besides, usually the Ground in Parks is full of Mole-banks, Trenches, &c. which is dangerous for a young Horse to gallop on, till he has attain'd to some perfection in his Stroke. But if they be turn'd out of the Park, and be hunted at force, you will find, that as soon as you have unharbour'd or rous'd them, they will immediately make out end ways before the Hounds five or six, nay sometimes ten Miles, they following in full Cry so swiftly, that a Horse must be compell'd to run up and down hill without any intermission; leaping Hedg, Ditch, and Dale, nay often crossing Rivers, to the great danger of the Rider, as well as of the Horse. So that in my opinion tis altogether improper to put a young Horse to such violent labour at the first, till by practice and degrees he hath been made acquainted with hard service.

Now besides the swiftness and violence of this Chase, and the danger of cracking his Wind, and bursting his Belly; besides the straining of his Limbs by such desperate Riding, and the creating in a young Horse a loathsomness to his Labour, by undergoing [Page] such violent and unusual service; the seasons for these Chases begining about Midsummer, and ending about Holy-Rood-tide, which is that part of the year in which the Sun's heat is excessive, and so scorches the Earth, that a violent Chase would hazard the melting his Grease and the weight of the Rider, by reason of the hardness of the Ground, would occasion Foundring, Splents, and Windgalls, insomuch that in short time the Horse would prove altogether vseless.

But here I cannot but desire to be rightly understood, since tho I object against these Chases as improper for young Horses, yet I do not mean that Horses should be excluded this Recreation; but I would have those which are imploy'd herein, to be Horses of stay'd years, and by long practice and experience have been rightly train'd to Hunting. ‘Young Horses (as the Duke of New castle says) being as subject to Diseases as young Children, and therefore he advises any man that would buy a Horse for use in his ordinary occasions, as for Journeys, Hawking or Hunting, never to buy a Horse until the Mark be out of his Mouth, and if he be sound of Wind, Limb, and Sight, he will last you Eight or Nine years with good keeping, and never fail you; and therefore (pursues he I am always ready to buy for such purposes an old Nag, of some Huntsman, or Falconer, that is sound, and that is the useful Nag, for he gallops on all Grounds, leaps over Hedges and Ditches; and this will not fail you in your Journey, nor anywhere, and is the only Nag of use for Pleasure or Journey’ Thus far the Duke. And if it may be permitted to add to his Advice, I would have them strait-bodied clean-timbred Nags, such as may be light, nimble, and of middle stature, for those Horses are not near so subject to Lamness as those of bulk and [Page] strength, the causes whereof have been already declar'd.

The next Chase propos'd was that of the Fox, which although it be a Recreation much in use, and highly applauded by the generality of the Nobility and Gentry; yet with submission to their judgment I never could find that pleasure in it which has been represented to me by some of its Admirers: and I am sure it is inconvenient for the training of a young Horse, since it is swift without respite, and of long continuance, both which, as I have already fhew'd, are distastful to him; but the greatest Inconvenience that happens to a Horse in this Chase is this; that when a Fox is unkennel'd, he seldom or never betakes himself to a champion Countrey, but remains in the strongest Coverts, and in the thickest Woods; so that a Horse can but seldom enjoy the pleasure of accompanying the Hounds, without hazarding being stubb'd, or other as dangerous Accidents. The fittest Horses sor this Chase are Horses of great strength and ability, since this Chase begins at Christmas, which is the worst time of Riding, and ends at our Lady-day, when the Ground is best for it.

The next Chase to be spoken of is the Ottexs, which although it may seem delightful to some, yet I cannot by any means think it convenient for a Horse: for he that will truly pursue this Amphibians sport, must often swim his Horse to the equal hazard both of the Rider and the Horse.

But to conclude with the last, and the best of Chases, and that is the Hare. It is in my opinion the most pleasant and delightful Chase of any whatsoever, and the most beneficial for training a young Horse. It [Page] is swift, and of some indurance, like that of the Fox, but far more pleasant to the Horse, because Hares commonly run the Champion Country; and the scent not being so hot as the Foxes, the Dogs are oftner at default, and by that means the Horse has many Sobbs, whereby he recovers Wind, and regains new strength. This Chase begins at Michaelmass, and lasts till the End of February.

Now the best Dogs, to bring your Horse to perfection of Wind and Speed, are your fleet Northern Hounds; for they, by means of their hard-running, will draw him up to that extraordinary speed, that he will not have time to loiter, and by continual practice will be so inur'd and habituated to the violence of their Speed, that in a short time he will be able to ride on all sorts of Ground, and be at such command upon the hand, that he will strike at what rate you please, and three-quarters speed will be less troublesome to him than a Canterbury-gallop.

I have often thought this one of the Reasons why your Northern Breeders for the generality excel those of the South; since certainly the speed of their Hounds contributes much to the Excellence of their Horses, and makes them endure a four mile Course without Sobbs, which some Horsemen call Whole-Running: but of this more in another place.

The time being now come that he may be hunted, you shall order him on his days of Rest in all points, as to his Dressing, hours of Feeding, Watring, &c. as in the first Fortnight afore directed; only since his Labour is now to be increas'd, you must endeavour to increase his Strength and Courage likewise; and this will be effected by adding to his Oats a third part [Page] of clean old Beans spelted on a Mill, and as an overplus to allow him Bread made after this manner.

Take four Pecks of clean old Beans, and two Pecks of Wheat, and grind them together, and sift the meal thro a Meal-sieve of an indifferent fineness, and knead it with warm water and good store of Barm, and let it lie an hour or more to swell, for by that means the Bread will be the lighter, and have the easier and quicker Digestion; after which being with a Brake or any other way exceedingly well-kneaded, make it up into great Houshold Peck-loaves, which will be a means to avoid Crust, and prevent its drying too soon; bake them thoroughly, and let them stand a good while in the Oven to soke, then draw them, and turning the bottoms upwards let them stand to cool.

When your Bread is a day old you may venture to feed your Horse with it, having first chipt away the Crust; and sometimes giving him Bread, sometimes Oats, and now and then Oats and spelted Beans, according as you find his stomach; you need not fear but such Feeding will bring him into as good condition as you need desire for Ordinary Hunting.

When your Bread is prepar'd, and you first Fortnight expir'd, you must then pitch upon a Day for his first going abroad after the Dogs, and the Day before you hunt you must always order him after this manner. In the morning proceed in your usual method as before, only observe that day to give him no Beans, because they are hard of digestion, but give most of Bread if you can draw him on to eat it, because it is more nourishing than Oats; and after your Evening Watering, which ought to be somewhat earlier than at other times, give him onely a little Hay out of your hand, and no [Page] more till the next day that he returns from Hunting: and to prevent his eating his Litter, or any thing else but what you give him, you shall instead of a Muzzle put on a Cavezone joyn'd to a headstall of a Bridle, being lin'd with double Leather for fear of hurting him, and tying it so straight as to hinder his Eating; and this will prevent Sickness in your Horse, which is incident to some Horses when their Muzzle is fet on, notwithstanding the invention of the Lattice-window, now adays so much in use; but this way your Horses Nostrils are fully at liberty, and he will never prove sick. But as to his Corn, give him his meals, both after his Watering, and at nine a clock, at which time be sure to litter him very well, that he may the better take his Rest, and leave him for that Night.

The next morning come to him very early, as about four a clock, and having dress'd a Quarter of a Peck of Oats very clean, put them into his Locker, and pour into it a Quart of good strong Ale, and after having mix'd the Oats and Ale very well give him them to eat, whilst you put back his Dung and foul Litter, and make clean his Stable, but if he will not eat wash'd Oats then give him dry; but be sure put no Beans to them. When he has done eating, Bridle him, and tie him up to the Ring, and dress him. When he is dress'd saddle him; then throw his Cloth over him, and let him stand till the Hounds are ready to go forth. But be sure not to draw your Saddle Girths straight till you are ready to mount, left by that means he become sick. But generally old Horses are so crafty, that when an ignorant Groom goes to girt them up hard, they will streth out their Bodies to such a bigness by holding their Wind, (on purpose to gain ease after they are girt) that twill appear difficult to girt them; but afterwards they let go their Wind, and their Bodies fa l again.

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When the Hounds are unkennell'd, (which should not be till Sun-rising) go into the Field along with them, and rake your Horse up and down gently till a Hare be started; always observing to let him smell to other Horses Dung, (if he be desirous of it) which will provoke him to empty himself, and let him stand still when he does so: and if you meet with any dead Fog, Rushes, or such like, ride him upon them, and by whistling provoke him to empty his Bladder.

When the Hare is started, you are not to follow the Hounds as the other Hunters do, but to confider, that this being the first time of your Horses hunting, he is not so well vers'd in the different sorts of Grounds as to know how to gallop smoothly, and with ease on them; and therefore you are not to put him as yet to above half his speed, that he may learn to carry a staid body, and to mannage his Legs both upon Fallows, and Greenswarth. Neither are you to gallop him often, nor any long time together, for fear of discouraging him, and breeding in him a dislike to this Exercise; but observing to cross the Fields still to your best advantage, you shall make in to the Hounds at every default, and still keep your Horse (as much as these Rules will allow you) within the Cry of the Dogs, that he may be us'd to their Cry; and you will find, that in a very short time he will take such delight and pleasure in their Musick, that he will be desirous to follow them more eagerly.

Now if at any time the Chase be lead over any Carpet ground, or sandy High-way, on which your Horse may lay out his body smoothly, you may there gallop him for a quarter or half a mile, to teach him to lay out his Body, and to gather up his Legs, to enlarge and shorten his Stroke, according to the different Earths he [Page] gallops on, as if on Green-swarth, Meadow, Moore, Heath, &c. then to stoop, and run more on the Shoulders; if amongst Mole-hills, or over high ridges and furrows, then to gallop more roundly, and in less compass, or according to the vulgar phrase two up and two down, that thereby he may strike his Furrow clear, and avoid setting his Fore-feet in the Bottom of it, and by that means fall over; But by this way of galloping, tho he should happen to set his Feet in a furrow, yet carrying his body so round and resting on the Hand in his gallop, would prevent his Falling; and to this perfection nothing but use, and such moderate Exercise can bring him.

According to these Rules you may spend your Time in Hunting, till about Three a Clock in the Afternoon, at which time you shall have him home in a foot pace as you came out in the Morning, and besure that he be cool before you bring him out of the Field; and as you are going home consider with your self, whether or no he hath sweat a little, (for you must not sweat him much the first time;) but if not, then gallop him gently on some Skelping Earth, till he sweat at the Roots of his Ears, a little on his Neck, and in his Flanck, but it must be done of his own voluntary motion, without the compulsion of Whip and Spur: and then when he is cool as aforesaid, have him home and Stable him, and besure avoid walking him in hand to cool him, for fear he cool too fast, or washing him, for fear of causing an obstruction of the natural course of the Humours, (which are thought by some Horse-men to abound most in Winter) and by that means cause an inflamation in his Legs, which is the Parent of the Scratches.

When you set him up in his Staul (which must be well litter'd against his coming home) tye up his [Page] Head to the Ring with the Bridle, and then rub him well with dry Straw all over both Head, Neck, Fore-bowels, Belly, Flank, Buttocks and Legs; and afterwards rub his Body over with a dry cloth till there be not a wet hair left about him, then take off his Saddle and rub the place where the Saddle stood dry likewise, and so cloath him with his ordinary Cloaths with all speed, for fear least he take cold; and if you think him too hot throw a spare cloath over him, to prevent his cooling too fast, which you may abate when you please, and so let him stand on his Snaffle Two Hours or more, stirring him with your Whip now and then in his Staul, to to keep his Legs and Joynts from growing stiff.

When that time is expired, and you think it may be throughout cold, then come to him, and having drawn his Bridle rubbed his Head, and pick'd his Feet from Durt and Gravel which he may have gather'd abroad, put on his Coller, and sift him a Quart, or three Pints of Oates, and mix with them a handful of clean dusted Hempseed, and give them to him; but give him not above the quantity prescribed, for fear of taking away his stomack, which will be very much weakned through the heat of his body, and want of water. Then remove the spare-cloth (if you have not done it before,) for fear of keeping him hot too long, and when he has eaten his Corn, throw a pretty quantity of Hay clean dusted, on his Litter, and let him rest two or three Hours, or there abouts.

Whilest you are absent from him, you shall prepare him a good Mash, made of half a Peck of Mault well ground, and water that is boiling hot, observing to put no more water than your Mault will sweeten, and your Horse will drink, and then stir them together with a Rudder, or stick and then cover it over with cloths, till the water has extracted the strength [Page] of the Malt, which will be evident to your taste and touch, for twill be almost as sweet as Honey, and feel ropy like Birdlime; then when it is cold, that you can scarce perceive it to smoak, offer it to your Horse, but not before, lest the steam ascend into his Nostrils, and thereby offend him with its scent; and when he has drunk the water, let him if he please eat the Malt also. But if he refuse to drink, yet you must give him no other water that night, but by placing it in one Corner at the head of his Stall, in such manner that he may not throw it down, (which you may effect by nailing a Spar across before the Bucket) let it stand by him all Night, that he may drink at his pleasure.

Now you will find this Mash, or (as some call it) Horse-Caudle, very beneficial to your Horse on several Accounts; for it will comfort his Stomach, and keep his Body in a due temperate heat after his days Hunting; it will cleanse and bring away all manner of Grease and gross humours, which have been dissolved by this Days labour, and the fume of the Malt-grains, after he has drunk the water, will disperse watry Humours, which might otherwise annoy his head, and is allow'd by all Horsemen to be very advantageous on that account.

When he has eaten his Mash, then strip him of his Clothes, and run him over with your Curry-comb, French Brush, Hair Patch, and Wollen Cloath, and clothe him up again, and then cleanse his Legs as well as his Body of all Dirt and Filth which may annoy them, as you have been directed in Dressing; then remove him into another Stall (that you may not wet his Litter) and bathe his Legs all over from the Knees with warm Beef-broth, or, which is better, with a quart of warm Urine, in which four Ounces [Page] of Salt-Peter hath been dissolv'd; then rub his Legs dry as when you came in from Water, set him into his Stall, and give him a good Home-feeding of Oats, or Bread, (which he likes best) or both, and having shook good store of Litter under him, that he may rest the better, and thrown him Hay enough for all night on it, shut up your Stable close, and leave him to his Rest till morning.

The next morning come to him betwixt six and seven a clock, for that is time enough, because the Mornings rest is as pleasant and refreshing to the Horse as it is to a Man, for then the meat being concocted the sleep is more sweet, and the brain is at that time more thin and pure. If he be laid disturb him not, but stay till he rises of his own accord, (and to know this you ought to have a private peep. hole) but if he be risen, then go to him, and the first thing you must do is to put back his Dung from his Litter, and to observe what Colour it is of: observe whether it be greasie, and shining outwardly, and break it with your Feet, that you may see whether it be so inwardly; for if it be greasie and foul either within or without, (which you may know by its outward shining, and by spots like Soap, which will appear within) or if it appear of a dark brown colour, and harder than it was, it is a sign that your former days hunting was beneficial to him, by dissolving part of the inward glut which was within him; and therefore the next time you hunt you must increase his labour but a little. But if you perceive no such Symptoms, but that his Dung appears bright, and rather soft than hard, without grease, and in a word that it holds the same pale yellow colour it did before you hunted him, then tis a sign that days Hunting made no dissolution, but that his Body remains in the same state still, and therefore the next days Hunting you may almost double his Labour.

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When you have made these Remarks from his Dung, you shall then proceed to order him as in his days of Rest; that is to say, you shall give him a handful or two of Oats before Water; then dress, water, air, feed, &c. as in the first Fortnight.

Now as to his Feeding you must remember the way I have already shew'd, of changing his Food; as giving him one while Bread, another Oats, a third time Oats and Beans, which you find he likes best; observing always, that variety will sharpen his Appetite. But Bread being his chief Food, as being more nourishing and strong than the others, you must feed him often'st with it.

And as in the first Fortnight I directed you to observe his Digestion, whether it were quick or slow, so likewise must you do now that he begins to eat Bread. If you find him quick, and that he retains his Bread but a little while, then (as I have already directed) you shall only slightly chip your Bread; but if he be slow, and retains it long, cut away all the Crust, and give it to some other Horse, and feed your Hunter only with the Crum; for that being light of Digestion soon converts to Chyle and Excrements, but the Crust being slow of Digestion requires by reason of its hardness longer time before it be concocted.

The next day after he has rested, you shall hunt him again as you did the first day, observing from the Remarks you have made, to hunt him more or less, according as you find the temper and constitution of your Horse; and when you are return'd home, observe to put in Practice the same Rules which you have just now read; and thus hunt your Horse three times a week for a fortnight together, observing to give him his full feeding, and no other Scowrings but Mashes, and Hempseed, which is equal in its Vertue to the former, [Page] and only carries off superfluous Humours in the Dung.

And here before I conclude this Chapter, I cannot but take notice of the Abuse of Scowrings, and my own Ignorance, being led away by the perswasions and my mistaken opinion of other mens Skill, who because they could talk of giving a Scowring, (tho Experience has since taught me, that they never knew the Operation of them, nay nor the Disposition of the Horses which they kept) I thought most eminent and skilful Horse-Doctors. But indeed I found to my Cost, that my Ignorance led me into the same mistake with those men, that take Physick by way of Prevention, and by that means render their Bodies more lyable to Diseases, their Pores being so much opened by Physick. In like manner I found that tho I bought Horses of sound and strong Constitutions, yet by following the false Rules and Practices of Others I quickly brought them to weak habits of Body; and by continually using them to unnecessary Physick, to be tender, and apt to take Cold and Surfeits on every small occasion: which taught me to know, that as Kitchen Physick is best for a Man, (unless he languish under some more than ordinary Distemper) so natural and true sound Feeding is best for a Horse, it strengthning his Constitution, and keeping his Body in good temper; for a Horse that is full-fed with good natural Diet is not subject to costivencss; and from hence I infer, that a Horse which is sound, and in health, and of a strong Constitution, needs little Physick more than good wholsom meat, and his fill of it, provided you order him as he ought to be when he is come from Hunting.

But as Horses no more than Men are free from Distempers; [Page] but by reason of abuses and unkind Masters are rather more liable to them, (it being become a Proverb, As many Diseases as a Horse); so when at any time they happen recourse must be had to Physick: and as it is good in its true use, so I shall in the subsequent part of my Discourse set down when, and what manner of Scourings are useful, and how they are to be applied with skill, and safety; of which in its proper place.

CHAP. VI. Of the Horses Third Fortnights Keeping, and first thorough-Sweating.

BY this time your Horse will be drawn so clean, his Flesh will be so inseam'd, and his Wind so improved, that he will be able to ride a Chase of three or four Miles without much blowing, or sweating; and you will find by his Chaul and Flank, as well as his Ribs, that he is in an indifferent good state of body, and therefore this next Fortnight you must increase his labour, by which means you will come to a true knowledge of what he is able to do, and whether or no he will ever be fit for Plates, or a Match.

When your Horse is set over night, and fed early in the morning, (as in the last Fortnights Preparation for Hunting was directed) then go into the Field with him, and when your Horse is empty, as he will be by that time you have started your Game, you shall follow the Dogs at a good round rate, as at half-speed, [Page] and so continue till you have kill'd or lost your first Hare. This will so rack your Horses wind, and by this time he will have so emptied himself, that he will be fit to be rid the next Chase briskly; which as soon as begun you shall follow the Dogs at three quarters speed, as near to them as is consistent with the discretion of a good Horseman, and a true Huntsman; but be sure as yet not to strain him.

During this daies Riding you shall observe your Horse's sweat, under his Saddle, and Forebowels, if it appear White like Froth, or Soap-sudds, 'tis a sign of inward glut and foulness, and that your daies sport was fully sufficient, and therefore you shall have him home, and order him as before you are directed. But if your Sport has been so indifferent, as not to sweat your Horse thoroughly, then you shall make a Train-sent of Four Miles long, or thereabout, and laying on your Fleetest Dogs, ride it briskly, and then having first cool'd him in the Field, ride him home and use him as aforesaid.

Now that I may not leave you in ignorance what a Train-scent is, I shall acquaint you that it has its Name, as I suppose, from the manner of it, viz. the trailing or dragging of a dead Cat, or Fox, (and in case of Necessity a Red-Herring) three or four Miles, (according to the Will of the Rider, or the Directions given him) and then laying the Dogs on the scent.

But this Caveat let me give all Huntsmen, to to keep about two or three Couple of the fleetest Hounds you can possibly procure for this purpose only. For although I have seen skillful Sportsmen use their Harriers in this Case, for their diversion; [Page] yet I would perswade them not to use them to it often; for it will teach them to lie off the Line, and fling so wide, that they will never be worth any thing.

When you unbridle your Horse, give him instead of Hempsecd and Oates, a handsome quantity of Rye bread, (to which end I would advise you to bake a Peck Loaf for this purpose) which being cold and moist will assist in cooling his body after his Labour, and prevent Costiveness, to which you will find him addicted, then give him Hay, and afterwards a Mash, and then order him in all points as formerly.

The next morning if you perceive by his Dung that his Body is distempred, and he is hard and bound, then take some Crumms of your Rye-bread and work it with as much sweet fresh Butter as will make it into Paste, and then making it into Balls about the bigness of a large Wallnut, give him 5 or 6 of them in the morning fasting; and then setting on your Saddle upon his Cloth, mount him, and gallop him gently in some adjoyning grass-Plat, or Close till he begin to sweat under his Eares, then lead him into the Stable, and let him be well rub'd, and throwing a spare Cloth over him, and good store of fresh Litter under him, let him stand two hours on the Bridle, then give him a quantity of Rye-bread, then throw him some Hay to chew upon, and after that get him another warm Mash, and then feed him with Bread and Corn as much as he will, and be sure to allow him what Hay he will eat. The next day water him abroad, and order him as in his daies of rest.

The day following Hunt him again, but by no [Page] meanes so severely as you did the time before till the Afternoon, but then ride him after the Dogs briskly, and if that does not make him sweat throghly make another Train-scent, and follow the Dogs three quarters speed, that he may sweat heartily. When you have a little cooled him, have him home, and upon his first entrance into the Stable give him two or three Balls as big as Wallnuts, of this most excellent Scowring; viz.

Take Butter four Ounces, Lenitive Electuary two Ounces, Gromell Broom and Parsly seeds, of each one Ounce, Aniseeds, Liquorish and Cream of Tartar, of each half an Ounce, Jallap an Ounce make the Seeds into Powder, and stir them into a Paste, with the Electuary and the Butter; knead it well, and keep it close in a Pot for use.

As soon as you have given your Horse these Balls rub him dry, then dress him and cloath him up warm and let him stand two or three hours on the Snaffle, then give him two or three handfulls of Rye-bread, and order him as you did before as to Hay Provinder, Mash &c. and so leave him till the Morning.

Then come to him and first observe his Dung whether it keep the true Colour, or whether it appear dark, or black, or red and high coloured; next whether it be loose and thin, or hard and dry. If it be of the right colour I mean Pale yellow tis a sign of health, strength and cleanness; if it be dark, or black, then tis a sign there is Grease and other ill humours stirred up which are not yet evacuated: if it be red and high coloured, then tis a token that his Blood is Feaverish and distempered through inward heat: if it be loose and thin, tis a sign of Weakness, but if hard and dry, it shews the horse to be hot inwardly, or else that he is a foul feeder: But if his dung carry a [Page] medium betwixt hard and soft, and smell strong, tis a sign of Health and Vigour.

When these Observations have been taken notice of concerning his Dung, then you shall feed, dress, water, &c. as in his former days of Rest; observing always to give variety, and his belly full of Corn and Bread. The next have him abroad in the Field again, but by no means put him to any labour, further than to rake him from hill to hill after the Dogs, to keep him within sound of their Cry; for the design of this Day's Exercise is only to keep him in breath, and get him an Appetite. Observe as you ride, that you let him stand still to dung; and look back on it that you may draw Inferences from the Faeces. When the Day is well nigh spent bring him home without the least sweat, and order him as at other times, only observe to give no Scourings, nor Rye-bread. You may if you please water your Horse this day, both at your going into the Field and at your coming Home, observing to gallop after it, to warm the water in his Belly. The next is a day of Rest.

In the same manner in every respect as you have spent this Week you must spend the next likewise, without alteration in any point; and by that time assure your self that your Horse will be drawn clean enough for any ordinary Hunting; so that afterward observing to hunt your Horse moderately twice or thrice a week, according to your own pleasure, and the constitution of your Horses body, you need not question but to have him in as good state and strength as you would desire, without danger of his Wind, Eye-sight, Feet, or Body.

Now when you have thus according to art drawn your Horse clean, you will perceive those signs which [Page] I told you of, verified; for his Flesh on his short Ribs and Buttocks will be as hard as a Board, his Flank will be thin, and nothing to be felt but a double skin, and chaps so clean from Fat, Glut or Kernels, that you may hide your Fists in them; and above all his Exercise will give plain Demonstration of the Truth of this Art, for he will run three or four Miles three quarters speed without sweating, or scarce blowing, I say when this is perfected, you must avoid all scourings after hunting, (because Nature has nothing to work on) but Rye-bread and a Mash, except your Horse be now and then troubled with some little Poze in the Head; and then you shall bruise a little Mustard seed in a fine linnen Rag, and steep it in a quart of strong Ale for three or four hours, and then untying the Rag mix the Mustard-seed and the Ale with a quarter of a Peck of Oats, and give it your Horse.

Lastly, when your Horse is drawn clean, you must beware that he grows not foul again thro want of either Airing, or Hunting, or any other Negligence, lest by that means you procure to your self and your Horse double pains and labour, and no thanks from your Master.

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CHAP. VII. Of making a Hunting-Match, its advantages and disadvantages.

SInce many Persons of Honour delight in good Horses, both for Hunters as well as Gallopers, it may not be improper to speak a word in this place concerning the Advantages or Disadvantages which happen in making of Hunting-Matches; since he that proceeds cautiously and upon truegrounds in matching his Horse is already in a great measure sure of gaining the Prize, at least if the Proverb be true, that a Match well made is half won.

The first thing to be consider'd by him that designs to match his Horse, for his own advantage and his Horses credit, is this; That he do not flatter himself in the opinion of his Horse, by fancying that he is swifter than the wind, when he is but a slow Galloper; and that he is whole-running, (that is, will run four miles without a sobb at the height of his speed) when he is not able to run a mile.

And the ground of this Error I suppose arises from a Gentleman's being mistaken in the speed of his Hounds, who for want of Tryal against other Dogs that have been really fleet, has suppos'd his own to be swist, when in reality they were but of middle speed; and because his Horse (when trained) was able to follow them all day, and at any hour to command them upon, deep as well as light Earths, has therefore [Page] falsly concluded him to be swift as the best; but upon tryal against a Horse that has been rightly train'd after Hounds that were truly fleet, has to his cost bought his Experience, and been convinc'd of his Error.

Therefore I would perswade all Lovers of Hunters to get two or three Couple of try'd Hounds, and once or twice a week to follow after them a Train-scent; and when he is able to top them on all sorts of Earth, and to endure Heats and Colds stoutly, then he may the better relie on his Speed and Toughness.

That Horse which is able to ride a Hare-chase of five or six miles briskly, and with good courage, till his body be as it were bath'd in sweat; and then upon the death of the Hare, in a nipping frosty morning can endure to stand still, till the sweat be frozen on his back, so that the cold may pierce him as well as the heat; and then even in that extremity of Cold to ride another Chase, as briskly and with as much courage, as he did in the former: That Horse which can thus endure heats and colds oftenest is of most value amongst Sports-men. And indeed tis not every Horse that is able to endure such extraordinary Toyl; and I my self have seen very brave Horses to the Eye, that have rid the first Chase to admiration, that when the Cold had struck to them, and they began to grow stiff, have flagg'd the second, and given quite out the third Heat.

Therefore to make a judgment of the goodness of your own Horse, observe him after the death of the first Hare, if the Chase has been any thing brisk; if when he is cold, he shrinks up his Body, and draws his Legs up together, tis an infallible token of want of Courage; and the same you may collect from the slackning of his Girths after the first Chase, and from [Page] the setting of his Teeth, and the dulness of his Countenance; all which are true marks of Faintness, and Tyring: and therefore there is no reliance on such a Horse, in case of a Wager.

But if on the contrary, you are Master of a Horse (not only in your own judgment, but in the opinion of knowing Horsemen) that is approv'd for Speed, and Toughness, and you are desirous to match him, or otherwise to run for a 'Plate; I will to the best of my power tell you the advantages that are to be gain'd in Matching.

But before I enter upon the subject propos'd, I think it convenient to tell you the way our Ancestors had of making their Matches, and our modern way of deciding Wagers. First then the old way of Tryal was by running so many Train-scents after Hounds, as was agreed on between the parties concern'd and a Bell-Court, this being found not so uncertain and more durable than Hare-hunting, and the advantage consisted in having the Trains led on Earth most suitable to the nature of the Horses. Now others chose to hunt the Hare till such an hour prefix'd, and then to run the Wild-goose-Chase, which, because it is not known to all Huntsmen, I shall explain the use and manner of it

The Wildgoose Chase received its Name from the manner of the flight which is made by Wildgeese, which is generally one after another: so the two Horses after the running of Twelvescore Yards, had liberty, which Horse soever could get the leading, to ride what ground he pleas'd; the hindmost Horse being bound to follow him, within a certain distance agreed on by Articles, or else to be whipt up by the Triers or Judges which rode by, and which ever Horse could distance the other won the Match.

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But this Chase was found by Experience so inhumane, aud so destructive to good Horses, especially when two good Horses were match'd; for neither being able to distance the other, till ready both to sink under their Riders through Weakness, oftentimes the Match was fain to be drawn, and left undecided, tho both the Horses were quite spoyl'd.

This brought them to run Trainscents, which afterwards was chang'd to three Heats, and a straight Course; and that the Lovers of Hunting-horses might be encourag'd to keep good Ones, Plates have been erected in many places of this Land, purposely for Hunters, and some their Articles exclude all others, (namely Gallopers) from Running.

But whether you design to match your Horse against any One Horse in particular, or to put him in for a Plate, where he must run against all that come in general; yet tis necessary that you know the nature and disposition of your Horse, before you venture any wager on his head; that is to say, whether he be hot and fiery, or cool and temperate in Riding; whether he be very swift, but not hard at bottom, or slow, but yet sure, and one that will stick at mark; on what sort of Earths he most delights to gallop on, whether to climb or run down hills, or else to skelp on a Flat; whether to run on deep, or light Grounds; whether on rack-ways, or Carpet-ground; whether amongst Mole-hills, or on Meadow ground; whether he be well-winded, or thick winded, so that tho he will answer a Spur, and mend upon Lapping, yet he must have ease by Sobs. All these things must be known, to the end that you may draw those advantages from them which may be offer'd in matching; as this for Example.

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If your Horse be hot and fiery, tis odds but he is fleet withall (for generally those Horses are so) and and delights to run upon light and hard flats; and must be held hard by the Rider that he may have time to recover Wind by Sobbs; or else his Fury will choak him. But whereas it is the general opinion that nothing that is violent can be lasting; and therefore that it is impossible that such hot mettled Horses can be tough and hard at bottom. this I conceive may be but a popular Errour; for I have sometimes seen by Art those two Qualities reconciled, at least so far, as to make the most Fiery Horse managable, and to endure both Whip and Spur; and then tho he should not prove at bottom so truly tough as the craving Drudge, yet by his Riders management his Speed shall answer it in all points and serve in its stead; But to return to my Subject..

The best way to Match such a Horse is to agree to run Train-scents and the fewer the better for you, before you come to the Course: Also in these Train-scents the shorter you make your distance the better: and above all things be sure agree to have the leading of the first Trayn, and then making choice of such grounds as your Horse may best shew his Speed, and the Flectest Doggs you can procure, give your Hounds as much Law before you, as your Tryers will allow, and then making a loose try to win the Match with a Wind; but if you faile in this attempt then Beare your Horse, and save him for the Course at last.

But if your Horse be slow, yet well Winded, and a true Spurr'd Nagg; then the more Trainscents you run before you come to run the straight Course the better. Observing here too, to gain the leading of the first Train, which in this case you must lead it upon such deep Earths that it may not end near any light Ground. For this is the Rule received among [Page] Horsemen that the next Train is to begin where the last ends, and the last train is to be ended at the starting Post of the Course. Therefore observe to end your last on deep Earths as well as the first.

In the next place have a care of making a Match of a suddain, and in Drink, for fear least you repent when you are Sober. Neither make a match against a Horse, which you do not know, without first consulting some skilfull or trusty Friend, on whose Judgment and Honesty you can safely rely, and who is able to give a good Account of your Adversaries Horse's Speed and his manner of Riding; and if you find him any ways correspondent to your own in speed or goodness be not too Peremptory to venture, but upon some reasonable probabilities of Winning: for tis neither Braggs nor Fancy that will make your Horse run one jot the better, or your Adversarys the worse: and remember this, that there is no Horse so good, but there may be another as good; and then if you proceed on good Grounds, and true Judgment, you may be the bolder to go on, and stand to your Match, notwithstanding the opinion of other men may be against you.

One material Advise I had like to have forgot and that is this; be sure at no time give advantage of Weight, for you will find the inconvenience of it at the latter end of the Day: for tho a Horse seel it not when he is fresh, yet it will sink him very much when he grows weak a Horse-length lost by odds of Weight in the first Train, may prove a distance in the streight Course at last; sor the Weight is the same every Heat tho his strength be not.

But if on the other side you gain any advantage of Weight, article that the Horseman shall ride so much weight as you are agreed on, besides the Saddle, for by this means the Rider (if he be not weight of [Page] him self) must carry the dead weight somewhere about him, which will be troublesome to the Rider as well as the Horse; and the more to the latter, since tis more remote from his Back then if it were in the Saddle, and by consequence will more disorder his stroke if the Rider incline to either side then if it were nearer the Center; as you may see by a pair of Scales, where if the Pin be not placed exactly in the midst of the Beam, the longest part (as being most distant from the Center) will be the heaviest.

Now as to the time that you take for dyeting, that must be according to the Nature of your Horse, and the present state of Body he is in; for tho he may be clean enough for ordinary Hunting, yet he may be far distant from that perfect State of Body, that is required in a Match, and to keep him in such strict Dyet all the Season, (except on such extraordinary Occasions) would be an unnecessary Expence.

As to your Horses Disposition for Running, you must know it by use and Observation, for in this Point Horses very much differ, for some run best when they are high in case, others when they are in middle Condition of Flesh, and some again when they appear to the Eye Poor, and Low in Flesh; there fore according to your Horses Nature, and the time required to bring him into his best State, you must order your day for the tryal of your Match to be.

But if you design to put him in for some Hunting Plate; there neither the choice of your Ground, the Weight, nor the Horses you are to run against are at your disposal, but you must take them as you find them; only the time for bringing your Horse into a good Condition is at your own discretion, since you may begin as soon or as late as you please to keep him in strict Dyet, the time for all Plates being usually fixt, and annually the same.

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CHAP. IX. Of the Ordering the Hunter, for a Match or a Plate.

WHen you have either Matcht your Horse, or entertained thoughts of putting him in for a Plate, you must consider that you ought to reserve a Month at the least, to draw his Body perfectly clean, and to refine his Wind to that degree of perfection which Art is capable of attaining to.

First then you must take an exact view of the State of his Body; both outwardly and inwardly as whether he be low or high in Flesh, or whether he be dull and Heavy when abroad, and this occasioned through too much hard riding, or through some Grease that by hunting has been dissolved, but for want of a scowring has not been removed.

If he appear sluggish and Melancholy from either of these causes; than give him half an Ounce of Diapente in a pint of good old Malligo Sack, which will both cleanse his Body, and revive his Spirits: and then for the first week you shall feed him continually with Bread, Oats and Split Beans, giving him sometimes the one and sometimes the other, according as he likes, always leaving some in his Locker to eat at his own leisure when you are absent; and when you return at your Hours of Feeding to take away what is left, and to give him fresh till you have made him wanton and playfull. To which end you shall observe that though you ride him every day morning [Page] and evening on Airing, and every other day on Hunting, yet you are not to sweat him, or put him to any violent Labour, the design this week being to keep him in Wind and Breath, and to prevent pursiveness.

But you are to observe that both your Oats, Beans and Bread are to be now ordered after another manner then you did before, for first you must dry your Oats well in the Sun, then put them into a clean, Bag and beat them soundly with a Flail or Cudgel, till you think they are hulled; then take them out of the bagg and winnow them clean both from hulls and dust and so give them to your Horse as you have occasion. Your Beans in like manner must be separated from the hulls which are apt to breed Glut, and must either be thrown away or given amongst chaf to some more ordinary Horse. And for your Bread whereas before you only chipt it, now you must cut the Crust clean away, and dispose of it as you please; for tis hard of digestion, and will be apt to heat and dry his Body. And now that you are to put him into stricter keeping, you are to make a finer sort of Bread then before, as thus;

Take two Pecks of Beans, and two of Wheat, and grind them together, but not too fine, to prevent too much Bran being in the Bread; and dress one Peck of the Meal through a fine Range, and knead it up with new Ale-Barm, and the Whites of a dozen new layd Eggs, and so bake it in a Loaf by it self, and the rest dress through a Boulter, and knead it only with Ale and Barm; and use it in all other points as the former: Now the Peck-loaf is to be given your Horse when you set him, and the other at ordinary times.

This Bread assists. Nature much in increasing the Strength, Courage and Wind of your Horse; provided [Page] you add thereto (as I have always told you) true Labour, as any Bread whatsoever; nay even as either of M. De-Greys sorts of Bread, which he mentions in his Compleat Horseman 4o p. 232. ed. 4o especially his last, which he says is better Bread, and a greater Cooler; and which he prescribes to make thus, ‘Take Wheat Meal one Peck, Rye-meal, Beans and Oat-meal, all ground very small, of each half a Peck, Aniseeds, and Licorish, of each one Ounce, White Sugar-Candy four Ounces all in fine Powder, the yolks and whites of Twenty Eggs well beaten, and so much VVhite-wine as will knead it into a Paste, make this into great Loaves, bake them well, and after they be two or three days old, let him eat of this Bread, but chip away the Out side.’

Now the Reason why I have cited this is, because I have heard several (who would be thought knowing Horsemen) applaud this very Bread beyond any other to be met with in any Book, tho for my part I can find nothing excellent in the whole Composition.

For first Oat-meal tho it be strong, yet it is a dry grain, hard of digestion, and a great dryer up of the Blood. The Wheat is of a drying quality likewise, tho it be light; for the Aniseed and Licorish, they are not only Physical but hot also; so that the Body becomes over heated, and thereby costive. And yet these People will not be perswaded, but these Drugs will make him long-winded; possibly they might assist him in Neighing, as some men say it doth Songsters in Vocal Musick, wherein there is no Exercise of the Body used; but where bodily strength is required, I am apt to believe it more prejudicial than profitable.

But here some will object that there is Rye and Beanes both which are moistning; especially the Rye which is both cold and moyst, and is the very reason DeGrey himself gives why he put Rye into his latter [Page] Bread, because (says he) Rye is a Loosner and a Cooler, and therefore it will make the Horse more soluble.

I have already said, that if his Body have Feeding proportionate to his Labour, the Horse will continue in a right state of Health. Yet since he is hot by Nature, and Labour might increase his natural Heat, and render him costive, therefore I have all along prescribd him Rye-bread alone as Physical. But here let the Horse be in what condition soever, whether bound in his body or laxative, yet Rye being a part of your Bread, your Horse must continually feed thereon, which has this undeniable disadvantage, that if he be loose in his body, this Bread (to use de Grey's own words) will make him more soluble.

And now whilst I am discoursing of Horsebread, I cannot but condemn another curiosity in some Feeders, who think, by dressing their Meal to the utmost degree of Fineness they do wonders, and that such pure Food must of necessity bring him to the greatest perfection imaginable both of Body and Wind.

But in this point I think they are deceiv'd, for the Meal being dress'd so very fine, nothing remains but the quintessence of it; which tho it be lightned by Barm and Whites of Eggs, yet when it is above a day old twill begin to harden, (as may be observ'd by Manchet) and especially if Oatmeal be in it, by reason of its drying quality, whereby it will not be so easie of digestion as it would be otherwise if it had no Bran in it; and by consequence will be more apt to oppress his Stomach, if he be heated, before it be throughly digested, and so breed raw crudities, and an inflammation of the blood, and by that means hazard a Surfeit, than which nothing can be of worse consequence to a Horse that is match'd.

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And therefore tis that I advise, that your Horsebread should only be made of Wheat and Beans, and that it should not be dress'd too fine, nor too course, but so, as that there may be neither so much Bran left as to annoy the blood, nor so little as to make your Bread too close and solid; but you may leave some on purpose to scowr the Maw, and further your Horses Digestion. And thus much by way of Digression.

Having spoken to the first condition of Horses which we propos'd, viz. melancholly, and low in flesh, we are now to speak of those which are brisk and lively; which if your Horse be so, that when you lead him out of the Stable he will leap and play about you, then you must not only avoid giving him the Scowring last mention'd of Sack and Diapente, but any other whatsoever: for there being no foul Humours, or any superfluous matter left in his body for the Physick to work on, it will prey upon the strength of his body, and by that means weaken it, which it must be your utmost endeavour to preserve by full Feeding and sound Labour, which will necessarily produce a perfect Wind, which is the Support of Strength, for when his Wind once fails, his Strength avails nothing.

As to the manner of it, if your Horse be ingag'd in a Hunting-match, you shall sweat him twice this week, but not by hunting him after the Hare, as formerly, but by Train-scents, since the former on this Occasion may prove deceitful; for tho the Hounds be very swift, yet the Scent being cold the Dogs will often be at fault, and by that means the Horse will have many Sobs, so that when he comes to run Train-scents in earnest your Horse will look for case, his Wind being not so perfect as in Art it ought to be.

Therefore lead your Train-scents with a dead Cat [Page] over such Grounds as you are likely to run on and best agrees with yous Horses Humour, and be sure make choice of the Fleetest hounds you can get, and then your Horse will be kept up to the hight of his speed.

As to the Number of Train-scents that you are to ride at a time, I hat you must order according to your Match, or (which is better) according to your Horse's strength, and ability for performing his Heats. For if you labour him beyond his strength, twill take him off his speed, weaken his Limbs, and daunt his Spirit. If you give him too little Exercise, it will give opportunity for pursiveness and ill humours, as Glut, &c. to increase in him, and gain in him a habit of Laziness, that when he comes to be put to labour above his usual rate, he will grow restiff, and settle like a Jade, either of which will redound to your discredit, and therefore it must be from your own knowledge in the state of his Body, and not from any general Directions in writing, that you must steer your Course.

Only this Direction may be given you, that if you are to run Eight Train-scents and the straight Course, more or less, you are to put him to such severe labour not above twice in your whole Months keeping; and and if it be in the first Fortnight, twill be the better, for then he will have a compleat Fortnight to recover his strength again; and for his labour in his last Fortnight, let it be proportionate to his strength and wind, as sometimes half his Task, and then three parts of it. Only observe that the last Tryal you make in the first Fortnight be a Train-scent more than your Match, for by that means you will find what he is able to do. And for the proportion of his Exercise, twice a week (as I have already said) is sufficient to keep him in breath, and yet will not diminish or injure his Vigour.

But if your Hunting-match be to run sewer Trainscents, [Page] then you may put him to his whole Task the oftner, according as you find him in condition; only observe that you are not to strain him for Ten daies at least before he ride his Match, that he may be led into the Field in perfect strength and vigour.

If you intend him for a Plate, let him take his Heats according to this Direction, only let it be on the Place, that he may be acquainted with the Ground; and as for the Hounds you may omit them, as not being ty'd to their speed, but that of your Adversaries Horse's. But as to your Number of Heats, let them be according to what the Articles exact; only observe that as to the sharpness of them, they must be regulated according to the temper of his strength, and the purity of his Wind. And when you heat him provide some Horses upon the Course to run at him, which will quicken his spirits, and encourage him, when he finds he can command them at his pleasure. And here too the same Rule must be observed, not to give your Horse a Bloody heat for Ten daies or a Fortnight before the Plate be to be run for: And let his last heat which you give him before the day of Tryal be in all his Cloathes, and just skelp it over; which will make him run the next time much more vigorously, when he shall be stript naked, and feel the cold Air pierce him.

But now that I am speaking of sweating, it may be expected that I should lay down some Rules how to order a Horse that is in keeping for a Match in Frosty weather, or in case he be an old strain'd Horse, so that you dare not heat him in hard weather, for fear of Lameing him a fresh.

In these cases some Horsemen have practic'd sweating their Horse in the House, by laying on him multiplicity of Cloathes, being first made hot at the Fire; which is the most unnatural way of sweating a Horse [Page] that can be, since 'tis provok'd by heat arising from the outward parts, and is too violent, the extreamity of the heat joyn'd to the weight of the Cloathes, not only weakning, but almost smothering him.

The next way in use, is to give him his Heat ahroad, as I just now mention'd in his Cloathes, but this too is not so natural and kindly, as without his Cloathes, since here too the heat is augmented from without, and consequently abates his strength the more, and yet doth not altogether so well improve his Wind.

Therefore if either you have a Horse that has been strain'd, or otherwise the weather be unseasonable, find out some dead Jog, or sandy way, though of but half a Miles length, and there breath your horse till he sweat as you would have him. I remember to have heard of a Gentleman having match'd his horse for a very considerable summ; and the weather proving hard, took this course to keep his horse in breath; he caused Straw, and foul Litter to be spread all along round an adjoyning Close, and every morning his Servnats shook it up and turn'd it, to keep it hollow and soft, and then the Horse was had forth to gallop on it after his Water, and by this meanes kept his Horse in tollerable Wind.

Now during this Month both on his Resting-daies, and after his sweats on Heating-daies, you are to observe the same Rules which you were taught in the first week of your Third Fortnights Keeping; only you are to omit all scourings, but Rye-bread and Mashes; since your Horse being in so perfect a state of Body has no need of any. Only if you think there may be any occasion, and that your Horse prove Thirsty, about Eight or Nine a Clock at Night you may give him this Tulip to, cool him and quench his Thirst.

Take Barly-water Two Quarts: of Syrrup of Violets 3 Ounces, of Syrrup of Lemmons 2 Ounces, mix [Page] them together, and give them to your Horse to drink; if he refuse, fasten it from falling as you did the Mash, and so let it stand by him all Night.

During the last Fortnight, you must not only dry your Oats, and hull them by beating, but likewise take half a Strike of Oats and wash them in the Whites of a dozen or twenty Eggs, and stirring them therein let them soke all Night; then the next Morning take them and spread them abroad in the Sun, till they be as dry as at first, and so give them to your Horse, and when they are spent prepare more in the same manner. This Food is light of Digestion, and very sovereign for his Wind.

[...]isBeans must be order'd as before, only give them not so frequently, if he will eat his Oats without them; and for his Bread this Fortnight let it be three parts Wheat to one of Beans, and let it be ordered as before directed. And likewise if you find him inclin'd to costiveness forget not to relieve Nature by giving him Oats wash'd in two or three Whites of Eggs and Ale beat together; for that, as I have told you already, will cool his Body, and keep it moist.

During the last Week omit giving him a Mash, only give the Barly-water as before; but as to Hay let him have as much as he will eat (which will not be much, if he have his fill of better food) till a day before he is to ride his Match, but then you must hold your hand, that he may have time to digest that which he has eaten, and then and not before you may muzzle him with your Cavezone; and be sure that day, and so till the morning he is led out, to feed him as much as possible, for such a days Labour will require something to maintain strength. Therefore in the Morning, an hour before you are to lead out, give him a Tost or two of White-bread steept in Sack. which will revive his Spirits, and so lead him into the Field.

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But if you are to run for a Plate, which usually is not till three a clock in the After-noon, then by all means have him out early in the morning to air, that he may empty his Body, and when he is come in from Airing feed him with Tosts in Sack; for you must consider, that as too much fulness will endanger his wind, so too long fasting will cause faintness. When he has eaten what you think fit to give him, put on his Cavezone, and then having chaf'd his Legs soundly with Piece-grease and Brandy warm'd together, or Trainoyl, (which ought likewise to be us'd daily at Noon for a Week, before the Match, or longer if you see cause,) shake up his Litter, and shutting up your Stable close, and preventing any Noise to be made near him, leave him to his Rest till the hour come that he is to go into the Field.

As to platting his Main and Tail, shooing him with Plates, pitehing his Saddle and Girths, and the like preparations, they are things which every Groom can instruct you in, and therefore I shall not trouble you with Rules concerning them, but in lieu thereof shall add some farther Directions how to judge of the State of your Horses Body, and if you find any thing amiss therein how to redress it.

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CHAP IX. Of the Means to judge of your Horses State of Body, and of curing all Casualties that may happen after Matching.

THere are several Observations to be made by you during your Dieting your Horse, which if you miscarry in, may be the loss of your Match, or your share in the Plate. Therefore, that you may know how to proceed regularly in this Art, I shall endeavour to summe them up.

First then you are to observe his Chaule, his Ribs, and his Flank, according to the Rules formerly laid down; for if he be clean within, he will also be clean there; but yet he may feel clean there, when he is not clean within; and therefore those Grooms are very conceited, who upon their first view of a Horse and handling of his Flank, pronounce him to be in a true state of Body; for gentle Airing, warm Cloathing, scanty Feeding, may disperse the gross Fat and Glut, and drive it from the outward parts, so that he may appear clean, when in reality he is not so: and therefore you are only a competent Judg, who know how he was cleansed.

Therefore you are to observe, first, whether in all points you have proceeded according to Art in his Training; as whether he performs his Heats with vigor and true courage, whether he have been all along home-fed, whether you have not suffer'd pursiveness to increase by too little labour, or abated his Flesh and [Page] strength by too much. These things are the very grounds of Keeping, and therefore ought to be scan'd and consider'd with judgment.

Next you are to observe his manner of Feeding, as whether he holds his Appetite or no; and observe what sort of Food he likes best, and of that give him oftenest; and in case his stomach abate, keep him out longer Morning and Night, at his airings.

In like manner you must observe his Dung, which tho it be as fallacious oftentimes as a Sick-man's Water, it being liable to alteration on the change of Dyet, or being influene'd by the air, yet being clean and in health it will usually be a pale yellow colour, and be voided in round Pellets; but if it be loose, and soft, it is an infallible sign of weakness, and therefore must by good Feeding be remedied as soon as possible. But if it be hard and dry, so that he cannot dung but with difficulty and straining, then you must endeavour to relieve Nature, but not with scowrings, which would weaken too much, but rather chuse to give him this Glister, which will both cool and refresh him.

Take a Quart of Whey, of Syrrup of Violets, and Pulpe of Cassia, of each Four Ounces and of Manna half an Ounce; this will Purge him gently, and is most excellent to cool his Bowels.

The next thing to be considered is Lamness, which if it proceed from old strains you must make use of this Oyntment, which I have several times experimented with good success.

Take fresh Butter, Oyle of Bayes, Dialthea, and Turpentine of each Two Ounces, mix and boyle them together on a soft fire, and when they are well incorporated, as hot as the Horse can suffer it, annoint [Page] the Horse twice a day, and give him exercise, by Airing him abroad Morning and Evening a foot pace, and you will find it a certain Remedy for any Strain in the Shoulder, Clap on the back sinews, or any grief what soever, that proceeds from Strains.

But if you only fear Lameness from Old Strains, then you must be careful that your Exercise be moderate, and alwaies when you come in from Water and his Legs are rub'd dry, annoint them with such supple Oyntments, as are accounted good for the Limbs, as Linseed, Train, Sheepsfoot, Neatsfoot, Nerve-Oyle and the like; all which may be used on his daies of Rest, but on his heating daies Urine and Salt-Peter. Some Horsemen make use of Brandie and Sallet Oyl mix'd, and bathe his Legs, and afterwards heat it in with a hot Iron, and commend it as the best thing for the Limbs of an Old stiff Horse.

But if your Horse through Negligence, or any casualtie happen to have the Grease fall into his Heels, you must endeavour ro remove it by a good sound heat, and a scowring after it, and apply to his Legs this Poultiss.

Take of Honey a Pound, of Turpentine, common Gum, Meal of Linseed, and the Meal of Fenugreek, of each 4 Ounces, and the Powder of Bay-berries well search'd 3 Ounces, mix and boyle all these well together; then take it off, and put to it a Pint of White-wine, then boyle it again, till it be very thick: and with this, as hot as the Horse can suffer it, lap his legs about Plai ster-wise, and renew it only once in three daies, and it will certainly bring his Legs within compass.

If your Horses Feet be bad, either surbated, or foundred, then instead of Cow-dung, you may stop them with blew-clay and Vinegor temperd together, [Page] and on his Heating-daies at Night stop them with grey-sope, and keep it in with a peice of an old Shoo-sole.

If your Horse be troubled with any Dose in his head give him Mustard-seed amongst his Provender, but if it be a worse Cold, which you will perceive by his Ratling, then give him this Lambitive, or Electuary.

Take of Honey and Treacle, each half a Pound, having mixt these together, add to them Powder of Comminseed, Liquorish, Bay-berries, Anniseeds, each an Ounce, mix all these together, and put them to the Honey and Treakle, which will make it of a thick consistance. If your horse hath a Cold, instead of his Oates before Water, give him the quantity of a Walnut of this Lambitive on the top of a stick or in a Spoon, and let him lick it off; and the same do after Airing, when first you come in, and you will find the advantage of it.

These at present are all the Inconveniencies that I can call to mind, which are lyable to Hunters, or Gallopers in their Keeping; and tho through inadvertency, or want of memory I should have omitted any, yet from these Grounds, you may form your Remedies for any common Accident or Distemper; and now that we draw near to the Match-day, and the End of our Discourse, we will only discuss some few Rules relating to the Tryal of the Hunting Match. I mean Rules to be observed in Riding, and so conclude.

[Page]

CHAP. X. Of riding a Hunting-Match, or Heats for a Plate, and the Advantages belonging to each.

I Have endeavoured to shew the Necessity and the Manner of Training and Dieting Horses, but this alone is not sufficient to the winning of either Match or Plate without a knowing and an honest Rider, and a skilful Judge or Tryer be joyn'd thereto; but since no man is fitter to ride the Horse than he that has the training of him, I shall lay down some general Rules how to ride to the best Advantage either a Hunting-Match, or three Heats and a Course for a Plate.

The first Requisite in a Rider, next to faithfulness in his Trust, is to have a good close Seat, his Knees being held firm to his Saddle-skirts, his Toes turn'd inward and his Spurs outward from the Horses sides, his left hand governing his Horses Mouth, and his right commanding his Whip; observing during all the Tryal throughout to sit firm in his Saddle, without waving, or standing up in his Stirrops, which very much incommodes the Horse, notwithstanding the conceited Opinion of some Jockeys that it is a becoming Seat.

When you spur your Horse, strike him not hard with the Calves of your Legs, as if you would [Page] beat the wind out of his body, bust iust turn your Toes outwards, and bring the Spurs quick to his sides; and such a sharp stroke will be more serviceable to the quickning of your Horse, and sooner draw blood. Be sure not to spur your Horse but when there is occasion, and avoid spurring him under the fore bowels, between his Shoulders, and his Girths near the Heart (which is the tend'rest place) till the last Extremity.

When you whip your Horse let it be over the shoulder on the near side, except upon hard running, and when you are at all; then be sure with a strong jerk to strike your Horse in the Flank, for there the skin is tender'st, and most sensible of the Lash.

Observe when you whip or spur your Horse, and that you are certain he is at the top of his speed, if then he clap his Ears in his Pole, or whisk his Tail, be sure that you bear him hard, and give him as much comfort as ever you can, by sawing his Snaffle to and fro in his Mouth, and by that means forcing him to open his Mouth, which will comfort him, and give him wind.

If there be any high wind stirring when you ride, observe if it be in your Face to let your Adversary lead, and to hold hard behind him till you see your opportunity of giving a Loose; yet you must observe to ride so close to him, that his Horse may break the Wind from yours, and that you by stooping low in your Seat may shelter your self under him, which will assist the strength of your Horse. But if the Wind be in your Back, ride exactly behind him, that your Horse may alone enjoy the benefit of the Wind, by being as it were blown forward, and by breaking it from him as much as you can possible.

[Page]

Next observe what Ground your Horse delights to run best on, bearing your Horse (as much as your Adversary will give you leave) on level Carpet-ground, because your Horse naturally will be desirous to spend himself more freely thereon. But on deep Earths &c. give him more liberty, because he will naturally favour himself thereupon. Be sure, if you are to run up hill, to favour your Horse and bear him, for fear of running him out of wind; but down hill, (if your Horses Feet and Shoulders will endure it, and you dare venture your own Neck) always give him a Loose.

Only take this for a general Rule, that if you find your Horse to have the Heels of the other, that then you be careful to preserve his Speed till the last Trainscent, if you are not to run a straight Course, but if so, then till the Course, & so to husband it then too, that you may be able to make a Push for it at the last Post.

Next you are to observe the nature of your Opposites Horse, and if he be fiery, then to run just behind, or just cheek by joul, and with your Whip make as much noise as you can, that you may force him on faster then his Rider would have him, and by that means Spend him the sooner. Or else keep just before him upon such a slow Gallop, that he may either over reach or by treading on your Horses Heels (if he will not take the leading) endanger falling over.

Observe on what ground the contrary Horse runs worst and on that Earth be sure to give a loose that your Adversaries being forced to follow you, may hazzard stumbling, or clapping on the back Sinnws.

Observe likewise in your Riding the several Helps and Corrections of the Hand the Whip and the Spur, and when and how often he makes use of them; and when you perceive that his Horse begins to be blown by any of the former Synptoms, as Whisking his Tail, [Page]clapping down his Ears, holding out his Nose like a Pig &c. you may then take it for granted that he is at the top of what he can do; therefore in this case observe how your own rides, and if he run cheerfully and strongly without Spurring, then be sure keep your Adversary to the same speed without giving him ease and by that means you will quickly bring him to give out, or else distance him.

Observe at the End of every Train-sent what Condition, the other Horse is in; and how he holds out in his Labour; which you may be able to give a judgment of by his Looks, the Working of his Flank, and the slackness of his Girths. For if he look dull tis a sign his Spirits sail him; if his Flanks beat much, tis a token that his Wind begins to fail him, and then of necessiity his Strength must too. If his Wind fail him, then his Body will grow thin and appear tuckt up, which will make his Girths appear slack to the Eye. And therefore take this for a Rule that there is no greater Sign of Weakness then this which I have last mentioned; so that if your Adversaries Horse want girting after the first Scent, provided he were closegirt at his first starting, you need not much dispair of winning your Wager.

When each Train-scent is ended (and so likewise after every Heat for a Plate) you must have dry Straw, and dry Cloaths both Linnen and Woollen which have been steep'd in Urine and Salt-Peter a day, or two, and then dryed in the Sun; and likewise one, or two of each which have been so steeped, must be brought wet into the Field; and after the Train is ended you must have two or three Helpers, and after your Groom has with a Knife of Heat (as the D. of New-Castle calls it) which is an old piece of a Sword blade, scrapt off all the Sweat from your Horses Neck, Body &c. you must see that they first with Straw, and [Page] then with their dry Cloaths rub him dry all over, whilst others are employed about his Leggs; and as soon as they are rub'd dry then chafe them with your wet cloaths, and never give over till you are called by the Judges to start again. This will keep his Joynts plyant and nimble, and prevent any inflammation which might arise from any old Strain.

The next thing to be considered is the Judges, or Tryers Office, which is to see that all things are ordered according to the Articles, which to that end ought to be publickly read before the Horses Start.

Next that each Tryer on whose side the Train is to be led, according to the Articles give directions for its leading according to the advise of the Rider, or his Knowledge of the Nature and Disposition of that Horse on whose side he is Chose.

Next that each Tryer be so advantageously Mounted, as to ride up behind the Horses, (but not upon them) all day; and to observe that the Contrary Horse ride his True-ground, and observe the Articles in every particular, or else not to permit him to proceed.

Next that after each Train scent be ended, each Tryer look to that Horse against whom he is chosen, and observe that he be no ways reliev'd but with rubbing, except Liberty on both sides be given to the contrary.

Next, as soon as the time which is allow'd for rubbing be expired, which is generally half an hour, they shall command them to mount, and if either Rider refuse, it may be lawful for the other to start without him, and having beat him the distance agreed on, the Wager is to be adjudg'd on his side.

Next, the Tryers shall keep off all other Horses from crossing the Riders, or leading them; only they themselves may be allow'd to instruct the Riders by [Page] word of mouth how to ride, whether slow, or fast, according to the Advantages he perceives may be gain'd by his Directions

Lastly, if there be any weight agreed on, they shall see that both Horses bring their true weight to the starting place, and carry it to the end of the Train, on penalty of losing the Wager.

The same Rules are to be observ'd (especially this last) by those Gentlemen which are chosen to be Judges at a Race for a Plate; onely they usually stay in the Stand, that they may the better see which Horse wins the Heat.

Now for running for a Plate, there are not so many Observations to be made, nor more Directions requir'd than what have been already mention'd; onely this, that if you know your Horse to be tough at bottom, and that he will stick at mark, to ride him each Heat according to the best of his performance, and avoid as much as possible either riding at any particular Horse, or staying for any, but to ride each Heat throughout with the best speed you can.

But if you have a very fiery Horse to manage, or one that is hard-mouth'd, and difficult to be held, then start behind the rest of the Horses with all the coolness and gentleness imaginable; and when you find your Horse to begin to ride at some command, then put up to the other Horses, and if you find they ride at their Ease, and are hard held, then endeavour to draw them on faster; but if you find their Wind begin to rake hot, and that they want a Sob, if your own Horse be in wind, and you have a Loose in your hand, keep them up to their speed, till you come within three quarters of a Mile of the End of the Heat; and then give a Loose, and push for it, and leave to Fortune and your Horses Goodness the Event of your Success.

[Page]

Many more Rules there are which may not occur at present to my memory, and others which I purposely omit; but these may serve the honest Jockey, and for the others which relate to Foul-play, as crossing, hanging on the Posts, leaning on the other Horseman, yoking, &c. I desire not to instruct any one in them, and could wish that they might never be made use of, but be wholly relinquish'd by all honest Horsemen.

Lastly, when either your Hunting-Match, or your Tryal for the Plate is ended, as soon as you have rubb'd your Horse dry, you shall cloath him up, and ride him home, where the first thing you give him shall be this Drink to comfort him.

Take a Pint and a half of sweet Milk, and put three Yolks of Eggs beaten into it; then make it lukewarm, and put in three penny-worth of Saffron, and three Spoonfuls of Sallet-oyl, and give it him in a Horn.

When this is done dress him slightly over with your Curry Comb, Brush, and Woollen Cloth; and then bath the place where the Saddle stood with warm Sack to prevent Warbles, and wash the Spurring-places with Piss and Salt, and then afterwards annoint them with Turpentine and Powder of Jet mix'd together; and be sure let the Stable be very well litter'd; and then cloath him up with all speed, and so let him stand two hours. Then feed him with Rye-bread, after that with a very good Mash: then give him his Belly full of Hay, and what Corn or Bread he will eat. Then bathe his Legs well with Urine and Salt-peter, leave him Corn in his Locker, and so let him rest till the next Morning; at which time order him as before directed in his days of Rest.

Thus I have imparted to the Publick what my own [Page] Experience has taught me, relating to this part of Horsemanship. I desire no Person to rely on it further then they shall find it advantageous upon Practice and Tryal. If others more skilful would be as free to communicate their Observations on this Subject, this profitable part of Knowledge might then perhaps be improv'd to perfection. The giving a Specimen was all that is here design'd. If the Reader finds any Errors, he is desir'd either to pardon or amend them. To those that either know no better, or want other Helps, this possibly may prove no unwelcome piece of Service.

ERRATA.

Pag. 15. l. 19. for rot read moot. p. 22. l. 22. for lyare r. lyard. p. 28. l. 3. for Doser. Pose. p. 45. l. 7. for that by r. that if by. p. 47. l. 1. for to feed him &c. in some copies, r. him, and so feed him by little and little. p. 51. l. 26. for Daler. Pale. p. 73. l. 1. for so inhumane, r. too inhumane ib. l. 2. dele so.

FINIS.

Information about this book

Title statement

The gentleman's recreation in four parts, viz. hunting, hawking, fowling, fishing : wherein these generous exercises are largely treated of, and the terms of art for hunting and hawking more amply enlarged than heretofore : whereto is prefixt a large sculpture, giving easie directions for blowing the horn, and other sculptures inserted proper to each recreation : with an abstract at the end of each subject of such laws as relate to the same.

Cox, Nicholas, fl. 1673-1721.

Edition statement

1686

Publication

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Text Creation Partnership,

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Ann Arbor, MI ; Oxford (UK) :

Date

2003-01 (EEBO-TCP Phase 1).

ID [DLPS]

A34843

ID [STC]

Wing C6705

ID [STC]

ESTC R33687

ID [EEBO-CITATION]

13549337

ID [OCLC]

ocm 13549337

ID [VID]

100171

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(EEBO-TCP ; phase 1, no. A34843)

Transcribed from: (Early English Books Online ; image set 100171)

Images scanned from microfilm: (Early English books, 1641-1700 ; 1547:49)

Source

— The gentleman's recreation in four parts, viz. hunting, hawking, fowling, fishing : wherein these generous exercises are largely treated of, and the terms of art for hunting and hawking more amply enlarged than heretofore : whereto is prefixt a large sculpture, giving easie directions for blowing the horn, and other sculptures inserted proper to each recreation : with an abstract at the end of each subject of such laws as relate to the same., Cox, Nicholas, fl. 1673-1721., Langbaine, Gerard, 1656-1692. Hunter, a discourse in horsemanship.. The third edition,.

Extent

445 p. in various pagings, [4] folded leaves of plates : ill.

Printed, and are to be sold by Jos. Phillips ... and Hen. Rodes ...,. London :: 1686.. ("The epistle dedicatory" signed: Nicholas Cox.) (Each part has special t.p.) (The "Hunting horse" [by Gerard Langbaine], 98 p. at end, has special t.p.: The hunter, a discourse in horsemanship.) (Errata: p. 98 at end.) (Reproduction of original in the Harvard University Library.)

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