Of Powders for Hair.

ALL white Powders are made of Starch, and there is no more Pre­paration for Powder of a high Price, than for Powder of a low Rate; there is no­thing else to be done, but to beat it and sift it very fine; you must only be very curious when you Perfume it with Flow­ers▪ because the goodness of Sweet-powder [Page 10] depends on it: But more particularly the Powder of Orange-flowers, and of Com­mon-roses; for if you are longer in sifting it than I prescribe in its place, the Powder may be spoiled, nay it will be so hot▪ that you can hardly endure your hand in it. The Flower will turn into Dung, and render the Starch damp, and turn into little lumps, and will smell musty; which may be avoided if you observe the Rules I give in its proper place. However, if it happen that the Powder should be spoiled, you must speedily use this Remedy. Sift it, break with your hands the little lumps, sift pre­sently all the Flowers and add fresh ones; sift them again every three hours, and your Powder will be good again. There is no danger in leaving these Flowers, be­cause they will not be hot, but have a care to leave them no longer than I pre­scribe in another place. You ought to know, that all sorts of Flowers are not capable to communicate their Smell to the Powder, Orange-flowers only; com­mon Roses, Musk Roses, Janquils and Jasmin are of that nature; other Flowers have a Smell too weak; Tuberose seems to have a strong Smell, but its quality is not proper, and is useless to Perfume Powder.

[Page 11] Powder of Cyprus is made of the Moss of Oaks, the Powder of Violet of the Root of the Flower Iris; the Powder of Franchipane is made in mixing Powder of Cyprus with Starch, both of equal quantity. All these Powders must be made in the Summer, because the other Seasons being moist, the Powders will participate of their moisture, you must keep them close in a dry place. Observe, that the Moss which is made use of in pre­paring the Powder of Cyprus, is not the same that grows at the Root of the Oaks, and which is green and like Fringe; but 'tis the Moss which grows upon the Boughs of old Oaks, it is white and in Leaves.

Of Wash-balls.

THE best Wash-balls were made for­merly at Bolognia in Italy, for the Bolonais had found the Secret to prepare and perfume the Soap so well, that no body a long time attempted to find it out; but they have been of late so negli­gent, and we have applied our selves that way with so good Success, that we have [Page 12] found the way to make them better than they ever did; insomuch that though the Wash▪balls which are commonly sold for Bolognia Balls were never made there, yet they are at least as good: 'Tis true we make use of their Soap, but we perfume it after the manner you'll see.

As for the other sorts of Wash-balls, the way to make them consists only in pre­paring well the Soap as I prescribe, for the Soap being of it self of an ugly Smell, you must needs clean it before you per­fume it: 'Tis the best Advice I can give on that Point.

You need not to clean the Soap for the ordinary Wash-balls, the Essences you put in will penetrate them throughly.

If you desire to mark your Wash-balls with a Seal, they must be rolled first and stiffened: And if you will gild them, stay till they are dry, then wet a little the mark of the Wash-ball with Cotton dipped in Sweet-water, lay the Wash-ball upon the leaf of Gold, and fasten it with a little dry Cotton▪

Of Benjamin-water.

A Great many undertake every day to prepare Benjamin-water, and very few succeed in it; they generally fail in one thing, viz. They put too many Drugs in it: As for Example, They imagine that without Litharge it will not whiten the Water, but it is a great Error. Observe exactly what I say in my Re­ceipts, and you will make it excellently. I only advise you to prepare it in the Summer where the Sun shines, for if you make it in the Winter it will prove dan­gerous, because if the Bottle breaks, as it happens sometimes, the Spirit of Wine takes fire, and may cause great Damage.

Essences and Oyls perfumed with Flowers and natural Essences.

THE Essences of Flowers which we use for Hair are not true Essences, and we call them Essences, because they are prepared with Oyl which takes per­fectly the Odour of Flowers, and only [Page 14] to distinguish them from the common Oyl. The common Oyls are the Oyl of Sweet Lemons, Olive-oyl perfumed with Flowers, which we make use of for Perriwigs. But the Oyl called Ben, whose figure is triangular, and whose Kernel renders an Oyl so fine, that it has no manner of Smell; having no Smell at all of it self, it takes the Smell extreamly well of the Flowers you mix with it, even of the most sweet and weak Smell, and so naturally, that there is no diffe­rence between the Smell of the Flower, and that of the Oyl: Provided you pre­pare it well, you'll see in its place how to Perfume them.

To speak now of the Natural Essences, They are true Essences, because they come from the Flower or the Fruit they have the name of. Natural Essences are▪ The Essence of Neroli, called otherwise the Quintescence of Orange-flowers; the Essence of Cedra, called Bergamotte; Es­sence of Citron; Essence of Orange strong or small: The Essence of Neroli is drawn from the Water of Orange-flowers, and is made of the Fruit which is in the Flower: The Essence of Cedra is produced of the drops you squeeze out [Page 15] of the Peels of Citron Bergamotte: Essence of Citron is drawn from the Lemons distilled, and that of Orange from Oranges distilled.

You have now the difference between Essences and Oyls: The Flowers which we may use in our Climate to make Essences and Oyls for Hair and Perri­wigs, are Jasmin, Orange flowers, Tu­berose, Jonquil, Musk-roses, because they are most common, and have the strongest Smell, the other Flowers have a Smell too weak: Every body knows the Sun gives the strong Smell to the Flowers, therefore we cannot make use of all sorts of Flowers as in hot Countries.

Of Pomatums Perfumed with Flowers.

POmatums Perfumed with Flowers are not good for the Face, but only for Hair; they are not now so much used as they have been formerly, the Oyls are more convenient: I must say how­ever, that if Oyls are more convenient for Perriwigs, Pomatums are more fit to clean Womens Heads, and at the same [Page 16] time to nourish the Hairs, and so they are always very useful. If you will have your Pomatum, take the very Smell of the Flowers; it is necessary to clean well with Water the leaf of the Hogs Fat which it is prepared withal; observe that chiefly.

Of Perfumes for the Mouth.

AMber is extraordinary good for the Stomach, too much Musk is offen­sive to the Mouth, so the less you can put in your Compositions it is the better: Remember to put no Civet, it is very hurtful to the Mouth.

Of Sweet-waters.

ANgel-waters are made after several ways, which come to the same thing, if you remember all the Drugs which compose them, and know the quantity, as you will learn by my Receipts, you may make it as good as you please, in using more or less Drugs. You must [Page 17] only observe, that if you make it in a close Copper▪pot, it will be thick and muddy; but if you distil it in an Alem­bick it is clear like Rock-water, though it has the same Smell as the other.

The Queen of Hungary's Water cannot be made here so good as at Montpellier, because 'tis made there of Rosemary­flowers, which are there in great Plenty: However the Water we make with Rose­mary-leaves is very good, and has the same Vertue.

Concerning Waters made of Flowers: There is only Orange flowers and Roses you can make Water of, all other sorts are adulterated. Several have tried to make Jasmin-water, but could not suc­ceed; the reason why is easie to be found, A Flower to make Water of must have a good Body or Substance; else it must be a Flower of an Aromatical Tree, as Rose­mary or Myrrh, whose Leaves you may distil, because they have a strong Smell.

As for Example, Take Orange flowers or Roses, and rub your Hands with them, and they'll smell stronger than before: But on the contrary, If you do the same with Jasmin or Tuberose, they will be [Page 18] so far from communicating their Smell, that they'll be reduced into Dung, and will stink. By this you may judge, that though some pretend to sell Water made out of Carnations, there is no such thing, because that Flower has not strength enough to produce any; but because it smells much like Cloves, the Water made out of them, is sold for the Water of Car­nations.

Of Sweet Balls to burn.

TO compose Pastils good for burning, you must not mix any thing with them, but what is fit to burn and smoak sweetly; therefore if you put in Drugs, they are as good as lost. As for Exam­ple, Put Civet in them, it will rather stink than smell well; and put a Grain of Civet in the Fire, it will stink, so will the Musk, but burn Amber, &c. it will Smoak a very fragrant Smell.

Of gross Powders put in little Sweet Bags and Toilets.

OBserve that all these sorts of Prepa­rations, though different, have all relation one with another, because they are all of a strong Smell; and the best way to prepare them, is to mix all the Drugs with such Dexterity and Caution, that one can hardly distinguish which of all the Smells prevail; you'll know how to do it, if you read and follow the Dire­ctions I give in my Receipts, mixing more quantity of sweet and strong Smells with less quantity of weakest Smells; and if you have failed in your Composition, there is a remedy for it, in mixing more or less proportionably.

Of Aromatick Herbs.

THE Aromatick Herbs are not very necessary in Perfumes, but because some make use of them, I have prescribed how to prepare them, though I must confess, all the Pains you can take will [Page 20] never make them more Pleasant and Sweeter. This sort of Herbs keeping so well their Smell, that it is almost impos­sible to qualifie them, we mix them with other Drugs which cannot be alter'd, or we make a sort of Preparation you'll see in our Receipts.

Of Perfumes that we wear about us.

ALL the Perfumes we wear about us, must be of sweet and pleasant Smell, use no great quantity of Musk nor Civet, and never without mixing them, for pure Musk makes ones Head ach, and the Civet alone is not Sweet, you must pre­pare them by the mixture of other Smells not so strong; read my Receipts.

Of Preparations to perfume Gloves or Skins.

THESE Preparations being made with the dearest and most precious Drugs, as Amber, Musk, Civet, Sweet-waters, Sweet Essences, &c. you must be very [Page 21] careful to mix nothing with them but strong Smells or Essences, for though these Perfumes are strong enough, it is certain that if they are mixed with other con­trary Perfumes, they are presently spoiled and lose their Vertues: On the other side, All the Sweet Smells preserve them­selves one with another; Perfumes made of them last for ever, when well prepared and used. To keep them Sweet a long time, they must be very well dressed and cleansed: 'Tis the chiefest thing.

Of Tobacco.

ONE of the hardest Receipts in Per­fumes, is that of Perfuming Tobacco with Flowers; for Tobacco having a very strong Smell, must consequently be very well cleansed, and the strong Smell taken away, to be fit to take another Sweeter. And it is certain, that if you do not cleanse it extraordinary well, it will ne­ver take well the Smell of Flowers; or if it does, you'll be oblig'd to use as much more Flowers than it needs, besides the Smell will never last long: All other Perfumes you put in it, as Amber, Musk, [Page 22] Civet, will signifie nothing, if your To­bacco is not perfectly clean, the Smell will never be pleasant; and the strong Smell of Tobacco will in a little while alter all other Perfumes. In short, It can never be good, therefore never be concerned if your Tobacco wastes in cleansing it, you will not lose much of it if you sift it in a strong fine Cloth; and you'll be sure that the Smell of it, when well perfum'd, will keep a whole year sound and good. The ways how to do it are easie, as you'll see in the Trea­tise of Tobacco.

The Time to gather Flowers.

WHEN you will use Flowers for Gloves, Essences, Pomatums, To­bacco, or for any other Preparations, gather them in the Morning after the Sun has shined upon them one or two hours, and in the Evening two hours before the Sun-setting: Let the Orange-flowers be flower'd and not in Buds; let them be very dry, not wet in the least, and wrap them in dry Paper, and not in Linnen.

[Page 23] The last Advice I give you, is, If you find that the quantity I prescribe in my Preparations is too great, it is easie to re­medy it, in diminishing proportionably all things, I prescribe them after the same manner I practised my self.

I do not speak a word in this Book of Paint, being perswaded that all sorts of Paints spoil the Face; I give some Rules only how to make Pomatums very curi­ous, which you may without danger make use of, for they are very good, and do not Paint at all.

Receipt of Powders for Hair.

PUT a Pound of Rose-leaves to twenty Pounds of Starch-powder in a Box, mix them all together with your hands very well, and every four hours shake them well, that the Flowers should not heat; the next day at the same time you put them in the Box, sift them and put as many Roses again, and so for three times; all that while you must let the Box be open, from the first time you put the Flowers in, till you take them out, and your Powder will be made.

Powder of Musked Roses.

MUsked Roses being more scarce than common Roses, you must put the same quantity of Powder and of Musked Roses, and let them be well mixt, leaving the Flowers in the said Powder twenty four hours; after what time sift the Flowers, and put fresh ones, and do so three times; you need not to sift them again, for they will not heat. Take care your Box be very close.

Powder of Orange-flowers.

MIX a Pound of Orange-flowers with twenty Pounds of Starch-powder, let them be well mingled, and sift them twice a day at least, or else they will heat; and in twenty four hours you must sift your Flowers, and put fresh ones in the same quantity, and so for three times. If the Smell is not strong enough, renew them again, and your Powder will be good. Keep the Box close while the Flowers are in, and when there is none left.

Powder of Jasmin.

IN a Box where you have put twenty Pounds of Starch-powder, mix a thou­sand Sprigs of Jasmin, lay them even, make a Bed of Powder, and a Bed of Flowers, and let your Sprigs lye thus twenty four hours without touching them, for they will not heat; afterwards sift your Flowers, put fresh ones in the same quantity, and continue so for three days, your Powder will be good: If you will have the Smell a little stronger, add more Flowers to it proportionably.

Powder of Jonquils.

THE Receipt I prescribed for Powder of Musked Roses, will serve for the Preparation of the Powder of Jonquils. Take the quantity of Powder to the Pro­portion of your Flowers, so that your Jonquils be well mixed with your Powder, but not over much. Having lain 24 hours, sift your Flowers, and put fresh ones: Do so three days, and your Powder will be good.

Powder of Ambret.

TAKE five Pounds of Jasmin Powder, and the same quantity of Musked Roses Powder, mix them together, then fill a Sieve of that Powder, pour in the eighth part of an Ounce or two gros of Essence of Amber, and mix them together; then sift your Powder, but not the lumps made by the Essence, which you must take out, and put them in again, and sift them till the whole be dried and run through: Mix them all together, and your Powder is done.

Though the white Powders are per­fumed with Flowers, it is not enough, you must make another Perfume as hereafter to make them excellent, then nothing will be wanting.

Perfumes to perfume other Powders.

TAKE twelve Pounds of Ambret Pow­der, or of another sort if you will, put in a little Mortar half a gros of Civet of the bigness of a Sugar-plum, and beat [Page 27] them together: Add to it of that Powder, and pass it through the Sieve; beat again the Lumps that remain, and pass them with the same Powder; being sifted, beat a gros of Musk, then mix them well to­gether, and your Powder will be made.

You may mix two Ounces of that Powder with a Pound of Jasmin or Orange-flowers Powder, it will make a mixture of Smells very pleasant, and help the Flowers to give a better Smell.

Powder cleansed with Brandy.

POUR a Pint of Brandy in a Box, wherein there is ten Pounds of Starch-powder, mix them very well, and let them dry; being very dry, beat them, and pass them very fine through a Sieve.

Powder of Violets, or of Iris.

THERE is nothing else to be done, but to beat the Iris, and pass it through a Sieve: That Powder is very good for Hair, and smells naturally of Violets; there [Page 28] is no other of that Smell, because the Vio­let has not strength enough.

Powder of Moss of Oak, called Powder of Cyprus.

FIRST of all dip the Moss of Oak in a great quantity of Water, during three days at least; take it after that out of the Water, and squeeze it well; then wash it again for several times till the Water be clean; then take it out of the Water, squeeze it well, and dry it in the Sun: You must stir it every two hours while it dries, that it may not heat, and being very dry follow this direction. To beat it in Powder, fill your Mortar with the Moss, pour a glass of Water upon it, and beat it, it will reduce it self in Crums, which it could never do if it had not been so moistened: Being thus prepared, put it again to dry in the Sun, and being quite dry you'll beat it easily in a Mortar, and pass it through a Sieve very fine: So your Powder will be done.

The last preparing of Powder of Cy­prus used by good Perfumers, is to mix once or twice Flowers of Jasmin and [Page 29] Musked Roses after the same manner as in other Powders, it will not take for all that the Smell of Flowers as the Starch does, but make it more susceptible to take other Smells you will give to it.

Powder of Frangipane.

TAKE six Pounds of Orange-flowers Powder, and as many of Moss Pow­der of Oak, which you shall mix well together, then heat the bottom of a little Mortar, and the end of the Pestle pretty hot, that it may melt the Froth; pour in it an Ounce of Essence of Amber, and at the same time a handful of the said Powder, which you must mix well with the Pestle, adding to it as much Powder as can fill the Mortar; then put it all in a Bag, with more of the same Powder over it, which you must sift in a Box, that it lose not its strength; and you must put again into the Mortar all the Clods which the Essence has made, beat­ing and mixing them as before, throw­ing more Powder: You shall continue so doing till the whole be wasted, then you must do this.

[Page 30] Put in the Mortar half a gros of Civet, and a bit of Sugar as big as a Walnut, beat your Civet with the Sugar very small, put to it by degrees some Powder, stirring it with the Pestle, then turn it in a Sieve, sift it gently, then put into the Mortar again the lumps made by the Civet, beat them once more, throwing over some Powder as before, and you must continue to do so till the whole be very fine, then mix it all together, and your Powder will be excellent.

That Powder is of pleasant Smell, and of Ashes colour, very good for all sorts of Colours of Hair.

Another sort.

MIX Powder of Moss or Cyprus with Starch-Powder in the same quan­tity, and put Flowers as you do to Orange and Jasmin-flowers Powder; and when you think fit, Perfume them with Amber and Civet, as 'tis said before, and it will be very good.

Another sort.

HAving observed one of the two last Receipts for the Powder of Frangi­pane, if you have a mind to have it Musked, instead of half a gross of Civet, to the same quantity of Powder put only eighteen Grains, and half a Gros of Musk, beat it small with a little Sugar, after the same manner you use it with the Civet, and the Smell will be extraordinary Sweet.

How to perfume the Powder of Cyprus, or Moss of Oak, as they do at Mont­pellier.

TAKE two Pounds of Powder of Moss of Oak cleansed with Flowers, as 'tis said in its place, infuse in it eighteen Grains of Civet with a little Sugar, as I said before; then put with it half a gros of Musk after the same manner, this being done, put it in a Box very close, it will be of an extraordinary fine Smell, a little [Page 32] will serve to Powder the Hair, and give it a sweet Smell.

Fine Powder called a la Marechale, fit and very good to make Paste for the Beads of Necklaces.

TAKE two Pounds of Moss of Oak, a Pound of Starch-Powder, an Ounce of Cloaves beaten, an Ounce of Calamus in Powder, two Ounces of Souchet, two Ounces of rotten Wood, mix the whole well together, and your Powder will be done.

The rotten Wood must be of Oak, be­cause being red, it gives a fine colour to the Powder.