ON Tuesday the twen­ty one of February, 1664. about one of the Clock in the Morning, [Page 2] the Right Honourable my Lord Henry Howard, and his Noble Brother Mr. Edward Howard, together with their Retinue, set forward to­wards Constantinople, and that night arrived at Do­ver.

The invitation to this Journey (besides the curiosi­ty of seeing that Eastern part of the World) had its rise and beginning, from the Em­perour of Germany his send­ing an Extraordinary Am­bassadour to the Grand Sig­nior, in order to the setling & establishment of that Peace▪ which not long before, on each side the Ministers of State, had agreed on and concluded. Besides, Count Lesley, the Person design'd for [Page 3] Ambassadour, was so very well known, to my Lord of happy memory, Thomas Earl of Arundel and Surrey (while his Lordship was Ambassa­dour in Germany) that as long as my said Lord of A­rundel liv'd, Letters of Cor­respondence past weekly be­tween them. His Grand-son could not therefore have a fairer pretence, to accompany Count Lesley, nor in reason doubt the least of a favoura­ble reception, which his Lordship alwayes found in the greatest measure possi­ble.

But to return to Dover, on Wednesday the twenty two, my Lord, with his Brother aforesaid, took shipping for Calice, sending part of his [Page 4] Train with the baggage to Dunkirk, where on the twenty three his Lordship met the rest of his Retinue. That day we went together to Bruges, the following to Gant, and the twenty five arrived at Bruxels, where we staid but two dayes, in which little time, to relate the many Visits, his Lordship received from Persons of the greatest Condition, as the Prince of Ligne, the Dukes of Arscott and Avry, &c. would equal­ly weary the Reader, as they did my Noble Lord, who scarce in the mornings had time to make him ready, and was forc'd to give out, he was often gone abroad, to decline that respect, which, though due to his Lordships [Page 5] great quality, was unseasona­ble then, since my Lord had many things to do in that place, where his stay was so short.

I should likewise acquaint the Reader, how nobly and civilly my Lord was received by Marquis Castle Roderigo, the then Governour of that Countrey; but being to leave Bruxels, I must post a­way to Wavre, a double Post thence, and the place of our abode for that night. The next day we passed through Gibloix, Namur, Vive l' aig­neau, Entim, and lay at Hoyne, which are all single Posts; and here began our lodging on Straw, which we were so familiar with after­wards.

[Page 6]The first of March we posted to Lignier, through Grand-Champ, Flamizoule & Michamp, and quarter'd at Asselborne, the first four being single, and the last a double Post. Thence we passed to Artsfelt, next to Bickendorf, and afterwards to Binsfelt, all double Posts. Here we rested, if we could take any rest in a lodging, where there was not the least accomoda­tion for repose. But what could we expect in so wild a Country, abounding with nothing but Hills, Dales and Woods, where we scarce met the face of a man, and for those of the feminine Sex, they well might be compared to bug-bears, which made me think of often, and as [Page 7] often remember my Coun­trey-women, whom though I did alwayes highly value, yet now I cannot estimate enough.

As for our Horses, some of them were constantly taken from the Plough, and weari­ed with labour beforehand, so as 'tis no wonder we had so many falls. But one that had not plowed that day, and so was more lusty and game­some, got loose by an acci­dent, and ran to the next Stage before us, so as two of our Company, (to help one another) were forc'd to ride by turns, and by turns to go a foot. And to mend the matter, our Guide in the night, though the Moon was very clear, like an Ignis fa­tuus [Page 8] misled us up and down, he could not tell whither, for which being rated severely, he was for a while so abomi­nably unsavoury, there was no going near him. But at last, by good fortune, we lighted on a Village, where the Peasants were so rude, or so fearful at least (hearing so many Horsemen) that we could not extract a word from them, they putting out their Candles, and lying like Coneys in their Burroughs, till partly by threats, and partly by good words, I got in amongst them, and per­swaded two of them, to shew us the way to the neighbour­ing Posthouse; which at last taking heart, they ventur'd upon; but when we got [Page 9] thither, and they found with what kindness we us'd them, they repented themselves they had been so inhospita­ble to us. There we met with a Lutheran Parson, as full of Wine as Fat, whose Latine came from him in clu­sters, which shew'd he had doubled his Glasses.

Thence we posted to Li­zer, where we passed the Mo­selle, and because we were forced to stay there for Hor­ses (which were fetcht out of the fields from their work) we din'd at that place, and had excellent Wine, which is all I can com­mend, besides the talking Host, who was a jolly fellow, and fill'd it with a grace, and drank it off as well.

[Page 10]This our stay there retard­ed us so much, we could only arrive at Laufferswiler that night, two double Posts from Binsfelt. But of all the Po­stilion we had, I must needs tell the Reader of one, who formally appearing in his Ruffe, his Cloak and high­steepl'd Hat, no sooner got up on his Horse, which was skittish, and had a Trunk be­hind him, but the Horse not enduring the ratling and weight of the Trunk, fell a kicking and dancing in that manner, that down went the Steeple, and the Cloak, Ruffe and man had followed after, but that relief ran in, and his Wife cry'd to him, If you have not Hans a care, that Horse will throw you to the [Page 11] Devil. But Hans boldly ven­turing again, sate very de­murely and gingerly, while we could do no less, than follow after and laugh, to see in what posture he sate, and how often his Hat was toss'd into the air, and his gravity disordered.

From Laufferswisel we passed through to Eckerswi­ler to Walstein, two double Posts thence, where because we could not find fresh Hor­ses enough, his Lordship thought it good to separate his Company, he himself ma­king choice of the Road to Rhinshowsen, and ordering his Brother, with the rest of the Retinue, to pass the Rhyne at Mentz, and meet all together at Ratisbone.

[Page 12]From Walstein therefore my Lord rode to Hanguisen, which was a Post off, and lodged at a Village called Boveren, half a mile beyond Worms. On the fifth his Lordship posted through Frankendale to Mowda, thence to Spire, and so to Rhinshowsen, where he cros­sed the Rhyne. The next place was Proussell, then Nitling, where there is a good Inn. Ensfinde, Canstat and Eberspoch succeeded, then Alderstat and Westerstet, Els­kinger, Lowen and Donawert follow'd after, and usher'd in Newburgh, where my Lord lay that night, and stay'd the next day.

The ninth his Lordship hired a Boat down the Da­nube [Page 13] to Ratisbone, intending his arrival there that night, but failing an hour, he lay three leagues short, and only got thither the next day at noon.

Having brought my Lord to Ratisbone, and left him well there, give me leave to post back again to Walstein, to conduct his noble Brother to that place.

We that were to road it through Franckford, depart­ed from Walstein the fourth, and lay that night at Mentz a double Post off. The City is built near the Rhyne, and the Seat of an Arch-Bishop, and one of the Electors of Germany. Here we hir'd a Post-chariot, and passing the Rhyne over a Bridge of Boats [Page 14] (for which we paid tole) ar­rived at Franckford, a great and goodly City, renowned for the Mart, and a double Post from Mentz.

From Frankford we cha­riotted it again to the City of Hanow, which admits of no Inhabitants but those of the Calvinist Religion. The place is strong and neat, but of a short continuance, being built but some fourscore years since, and is a single Post from Franckford afore­said.

At Hanow we found ano­ther Chariot, which carried us to Tetting, a single Post thence, where we lodged that night.

The sixth we past Bessen­back, a Post and a half, [Page 15] whence to Esselback (which is a double Post) we met with a Chariot and six Hor­ses, all the rest having only had three, or four at the most. But here we had three men to attend us, one riding Postilion, another on a Horse next the Chariot, and the last running afoot, who changed by turns with the Postilion; and one thing I observed, when the Horses were weary all the three men would be sure to get up. In this manner we passed the Spessaert, a vast and thick Wood, full of overgrown Oaks, and belonging to the Elector of Mentz.

From Esselback we crossed the River of Main, and lodged at Raulinghen, a single [Page 16] Post thence. Wirtzburgh we posted to next, where we past the Main again, and on the right hand, saw a regular Fortress and House, apper­taining to the Elector of Mentz aforesaid. This as Kitzinghem, Posthenhem, Launghenfelt and Emskerken, where we lodged that night, are all single Posts. But be­fore I go farther, give me leave to look back, and tell the gentle Reader, that my Lord in his passage to New­burgh, saw a certain race of men, which fasten so their Breeches to their Doublets with Points, that as others use to put down their Breeches, they pull off their Doublets, to do the necessi­ties of Nature. [Page 17] Fornback presented next it self, a single Post from No­rimberg, a City of excellent Houses, and as excellently furnished, whose Town-Hall is an admirable Structure. Thence we passed to Faicht, Postbaw and Finingen all single Posts, where we took up our quarters.

The ninth we rode through Postberge and La­bour, and at noon arriv'd at Ratisbone, all single Posts, where we met not with my Lord till the following day, for his Lordship went about, and out of the Post-road to this place.

Having viewed the City, which is famous for little, but the Dyet kept there, on the one and twentieth (for [Page 18] now I must observe the stile of the Countrey, for fear of mistakes) we hired a Boat for Vienna, and that night got to Strawbing. The next day we arrived at Vilshoven, this Town with the other appertaining to the Duke of Bavaria. Here the Ser­vant attending at Supper, be­ing asked his name, said no­thing, but ran out of the Room, as if he had recourse to his Godfather, to enquire what it was, so dull and hea­vy are some of the ordinary people.

The three and twentieth we lay at Odensham, a Town of the Emperours, where Otho was born. Here the Cano­pies of the Beds were so low, we could not sit upright, and [Page 19] the Beds plac'd so near one another, as no passing be­tween, but side-long, and with difficulty. The Beds too and Coverings are alike, being all soft Feather-beds, to stew in betwixt, but that for a remedy, the head is made so high, and the feet lye so low, that while your face is in the air, your legs are on the ground. Their Napkins are likewise extravagant, and no bigger than Chil­drens Pinners, or at best but Pocket-handkerchiefs. In one of the Stews above stairs, you have commonly but one Bed, but the other is hospital-wise, and hath usu­ally six or seven, and to mend the matter, a ne­cessary House, which needs [Page 20] no Directour to finde it.

A little before we came to St. Nicholas (some seven Leagues from Lince an Impe­rial Town) the Boat-men desir'd us to sit still, and we had indeed great reason so to do, for there between the Rocks, the Danube is con­tracted in that manner, that it runs most impetuously, and the water whirles about so in several places, as if through some Tunnel it emptied it self into a Gulph, and the Watermen assur'd us, that part of the Danube ran there under ground, dis­burthening it self after­wards in Hungary, where it made a great Lake, and this was confirmed, they said, [Page 21] by sinking a great Pole, with a proportionable weight fastened to it, which was af­terwards found again in the Lake aforesaid.

In our passage to Melke, where we lodged that night, we toucht several times on the ground, and twice were constrain'd to disingage our selves by labouring hard at the Oars, and one time were so fast, that we were in some hazard of staying all the night on the water.

The five and twentieth we lay at Tulne, and the next day arrived at Vienna, the Capi­tal City of Austria, and Resi­dence of the Emperours of Germany, and during our Journey, from the time we departed from London, till [Page 22] two dayes after our arrival at Vienna aforesaid, being three weeks and four dayes, we had not any Rain.

That day we repaired to the Golden-Hart, a great and goodly Inn, where my Lord lodg'd that night, but the next day Count Lesley, having not leisure to come himself, for he was to be present at the Emperours Councel, sent his Nephew, my Lord Hay, to complement his Lordship, and carry him to his House; where Count Lesley highly welcom'd my Lord, and after many Ceremonies, and great demonstrations of kindness and respect, carryed his Lord­ship and his Brother to the House of the Earl of Trawne who is the Land Marshal [Page 23] where they had a noble Dinner.

The eight and twentieth my Lord din'd with Count Lesley, who by means of my Lord Hay, provided his Lord­ship of Lodgings near his House, and the next day with Count Dietrichstien the Emperours Master of his Horse. The same day my Lord waited on the Empe­rour to the Convent of the Capucines, where his Imperial Majesty din'd, the Princes and Lords of the greatest condition (as the custom is there) waiting on his Ma­jesty, and walking afoot be­fore his Coach.

The thirtieth my Lord waited again on the Empe­rour, who dined that day [Page 24] with his Mother in Law the Empress, where his Lordship staying, till his Imperial Ma­jesty had drunk his first draught (a Ceremony ob­served by Ambassadours themselves) retired, and din'd with Count Lesley, attending after dinner on the Emperour, the Empress and Princesses, to a Park a­bout a mile from Vienna, where his Majesties Hunts­men inclosing some four acres of ground, with Canvas ex­tended by Poles above a mans height, and a little way farther, with Canvas afore­said, making a lane a breast high, by letting fall the Can­vas towards the East, with Beagles hunted in at a time, some eight or ten Foxes, [Page 25] which coursed up and down, were by several Gen­tlemen, who had Nets in their hands for that purpose, of a foot and half wide, and be­tween three and four yards long, toss'd up into the air, as it were in several Blankets, as they ran up and down seeking places to escape. In this manner, and with Dogs and Sticks, they sacrific'd se­venty Foxes to the Empe­rours pleasure, and after­wards baited and killed six Badgers.

The one and thirtieth my Lord din'd with the Earl of Staremberg the Marshal of the Court, and waited after dinner on the Emperour, who that day went afoot to a Church, about a mile from [Page 26] Vienna, where a Sepulchre, in imitation of that of our Sa­viours at Jerusalem, is annual­ly visited, and his Majesty kneel'd and pray'd by the way at five several stati­ons.

The first of April his Lordship din'd with Count Lesley, where he constantly din'd, unless he was invited to any other place, for still about noon, Count Lesley a­foresaid sent his Coach for my Lord, to oblige him with with his Company at Din­ner.

The second of the month the Emperour and his No­bility receiv'd the blessed Sacrament, and his Majesty wash'd and kiss'd the feet o [...] twelve men, the youngest o [...] [Page 27] which was seventy years old, and the eldest one hundred and four; and among them all they made up the age of nine hundred and eighty seven years; to every one of whom he gave a Sute of black Cloath, a pair of Shooes and Stockings, and a Purse with some Money. At dinner they had each three Courses of Fish, and four Dishes at each Course, his Imperial Majesty waiting upon them; and when din­ner was done, the youngest made a Speech to the Empe­rour, very gratefully ac­knowledging the honours they had received.

That day our Saviours Passion was represented in Italian, in Musick, in the [Page 28] Church near the Court, and on the third at the Jesuites, where the Emperour was present, and his Majesty heard five several Sermons that day.

The fourth the Emperour visited afoot the Churches and Sepulchres, in number thirty seven, at three of which the Passion of our Saviour was exhibited in Musick.

On Easter day his Imperial Majesty din'd publickly, as he usually doth four times in the year, and at the first Course, only cold and blessed Meats are served in.

The tenth my Lord, with his Brother, and several other Persons of Quality, accom­panyed Count Lesley to the [Page 29] Jesuits Colledge, where they had a noble Dinner.

The eleventh his Lordship din'd with Count Roddols. The fourteenth at Earl Ko­ningsecks, who was former­ly Ambassadour in England: And the fifteenth at the Count de Nosticks.

The eighteenth his Lord­ship saw the Emperour ride the great Horse, and four­score Colts backt by the Ri­ders; as also his Majesties Stables, where there were many brave and goodly Horses, to the number of one hundred and twelve.

The nineteenth my Lord din'd at Prince Portia's, and the twentieth at Count Al­temms.

[Page 30]The two and twentieth the Emperour (as he uses every year) retir'd to his Castle of Lauxembourgh, to fly at the Heron.

The eight and twentieth his Lordship din'd with Count Wallestein, and the following day with Count Montecuculo.

The second of May with Marquis Pio, and the third with the Marquis of Ba­den.

But now the Ambassa­dour, together with his Comrades and their Reti­nue, being pompously and nobly apparelled after the Turkish fashion, in Cloaths of Gold and Silver, on the sixth of May, in a very so­lemn manner, rode along [Page 31] through the Streets to the Emperours Palace, the Win­dows of which were throng'd with the Spectators of this sumptuous Caval­cade, which was in this or­der.

First, Two Grooms of the Emperours.

Secondly, The Quarter­master.

Thirdly, Two Coriers.

Fourthly, The Gentleman of the Horse.

Fifthly, Eight led Horses, with noble and most rich Trappings and Furniture.

Sixthly, Twelve Pages ri­ding two and two toge­ther.

Seventhly, Eight Trum­peters riding four and four abreast, [Page 32] and a Kettle-drum in the middle.

Eighthly, The Ambassa­dours Steward alone at the head of his Squadron.

Ninthly, His Excellencies own Colours carried by one of his Gentlemen, between his Physitian and Secretary, and followed by the rest of his Gentlemen, and others belonging to the Comrades of his Excellency, in number thirty and one.

Tenthly, Twelve Foot­men.

Eleventhly, The Secreta­ry of the Embassy, and Inter­preter of his Imperial Ma­jesty.

Twelfthly, The Ambassa­dour with four and twenty Halbardiers, twelve of which [Page 33] preceded, and the like num­ber followed him.

Thirteenthly, The Cava­liers, the Comrades of his Excellency, and the Empe­rours Colours of Cloth of Silver embroidered, and car­ried by Count Sterhaimb, whose names here ensue.

First, Count Herberstein.

Secondly, My Lord Henry Howard.

Thirdly, The Duke of Holstein incognito, and cal­led the Baron of Binnen­dorff.

Fourthly, Count Ster­haimb.

Fifthly, Marquis Durazzo, a Genouese.

Sixthly, The Honourable Edward Howard of Norfolk.

[Page 34]Seventhly, Marquis Pecori, a Florentine.

Eighthly, The Baron of Finvekercken.

Ninthly, Marquis Cha­steauvieux, a Frenchman.

Tenthly, Francis Hay Ba­ron of Delgate, Nephew to the Ambassadour.

Eleventhly, The Baron of Rech, Nephew to the Bishop of Munster.

Twelfthly, Baron Coronini of Friuli.

Thirteenthly, Baron Fin of the same Countrey.

Fourteenthly, Baron Korn­feil of Austria.

Besides, there were several Gentlemen of several Coun­treys, as Signore Vincenzo Marchiao of Luca, Sig­nore Casner of Austria, [Page 35] Signore Oversche of Holland, &c.

Lastly came four Coaches with six Horses a piece, and his Excellencies Litter. One of the Coaches was nobly guilt and furnisht, which his Excellency presented, with the Horses, to the Grand Sig­nior at Adrianople.

The Cavalcade being o­ver, we continued in Vienna till the five and twentieth of May, during which time, my Lord was feasted as former­ly, for on the twelfth he di­ned with Count Sincsindorff, Presidente della Camera, and the fifteenth with Count d' Iterstein.

The seventeenth my Lord went to Lauxenbourg, and [Page 36] dining▪ with Prince▪ Lobko­viz, waited after dinner on the Emperour, and saw him Hawk at the Heron, and kill four that day.

The nineteenth his Lord­ship din'd with the Marquis of Baden, and on the two and twentieth he went in the Company of the Marquisses Durazzo and Pecori, and his Brother, to see the hot Baths, some four Leagues distant from Vienna, whither Per­sons of Quality, as Earls and Countesses, very frequently resort, who go all together into the same Bath, but with this distinction, that the men keep on one side, and the women on the other. The men go with Drawers and their Shirts, wearing black [Page 37] leather Caps, with Buttons on the top, for the easier sa­luting of the Ladies and Gentlemen, when they come into the Bath. They have several Laws, and the forfei­tures go to the Poor, and commonly the Women are very great sticklers, for ex­acting and leavying of the same.

But since I must soon leave Vienna, for the five and twentieth instant is the day of our departure, I think it not amiss to give you a little description of the place.

Vienna, the Metropolis of Inferiour Austria, is seated near a branch of the Danube, the famousest River of Eu­rope. The Geographical la­titude is forty eight degrees [Page 38] and twenty minutes, and the longitude forty. The figure of the City is not perfectly round, but inclining much to it. The circuit about five thousand Geometrical paces, which with an easie walk may be compast in an hour and a half. 'Tis strong, and well fortified, and if as well provided of men, and all things appertaining to a Siege, will hardly be ta­ken.

The Houses are goodly and large, and commonly have great Cellars for stow­age of their Wines, which are in that abundance in this City, that vulgarly they say (and perhaps without vani­ty) there is more Wine than Water at Vienna, [Page 39] though the City hath ma­ny fair Fountains and Wells.

The said Wine is carried into Bohemia, Silesia, Superi­our Austria and Bavaria, Saltzburg, and several other places.

By the help of their Stoves, they have fresh and green Sallats in the Winter, so as in a very strange season of the year, when the Coun­trey is cover'd with Snow, they have Lettices and Herbs in very great plenty in the Markets.

There are four great Piaz­zo's in the City, which are beautified and adorned with Marble Fountains and Sta­tues. In one, call'd by ex­cellency, The Piazzo, two [Page 40] Fairs are yearly kept, to which in great throngs, from all parts of Germany, the Merchants resort. There are many Princes Pallaces, many Religious Houses of both Sexes, together with many Churches, though far more conspicuous for their neat­ness, than vastness of fabrick. The Cathedral is dedicated to Saint Stephen, whose Stee­ple is about four hundred sixty and five foot high, all consisting of hewn Stone, and carv'd into various fi­gures of Men, Birds and Beasts, which are fastned to­gether with Irons.

The Suburbs are bigger than the City, not for the number of the Inhabitants, which are scarce twenty [Page 41] thousand, and the City hath fourscore thousand Souls, but the largeness of the ter­ritory: And though there are many wooden Houses, where the poorer sort dwell, yet the Monasteries and Churches may well be com­pared to those in the City. Besides, there are many fair Buildings of Princes, and the richer sort of Citizens, with very fine Gardens, where you can desire nothing, that is ei­ther for pleasure or profit. But amongst all the Gar­dens, the Empresses, call'd Favorith, exceeds far the rest, for that in other Gardens is scattered and disperst, is here found united and col­lected.

[Page 42]In one of the Suburbs, seated in an Island of the Danube, the Jews do inhabit, who with Boards, and a piece of a Wall, are divided from the Christians that live in the said Suburbs. The said Island is joyned to the City with a wooden Bridge, which commonly every year is broken and thrown down by the Ice; and there is a Park in it, abounding with tall Trees, and Herds of Deer and Bores, which wander up and down in a tame and fear­less manner; and there is too a Walk four thousand paces long, with Trees on both sides, which reacheth to a place called Gruen-lust­house.

[Page 43]Some two or three miles from the City, a Structure, call'd Naugebeu, was erected by Rodolphus the Second, which, as you approach it, appears not like a Garden, but rather a City of Towers, which, together with the Walks, supported by Arches, is covered with Copper­plates, and was built in imi­tation and memory of Soly­man the Magnificent's Tent, which he picht in that place, when he came with the de­sign of besieging Vienna. Besides many things that de­serve to be seen, there's a Well of a strange work, out of which they draw Water with three hundred sixty and five Buckets, as likewise fair Fountains with Alabaster [Page 44] Statues, together with Ly­ons and Tygers kept there in a place for that pur­pose.

About the same distance from Vienna is Schoenbrun, encompast with a Wall, where there is a shady Wood on a pleasant ascent, and a fine Plain below. The House is beautified with Pictures, and the Garden very curious, whither the Empress retires, when she goes into the Country. I omit the rest, as Lauxenburg, Mariabrun, Ebersdorffe, and other sweet places, as remoter from the City.

The Inhabitants, general­ly speaking, are courteous and affable, and as well bred as any in Germany, by reason [Page 45] of the Court, and the con­course of French and Itali­ans, whose behaviour and fashion they happily emu­late: And many, besides their own Tongue, and the Latine (which they speak very fluently) speak Italian and French.

The University of Vienna, renown'd through all Germa­ny, is not the least Ornament of the City, it having great splendour and power: For besides many Priviledges in­dulged by the Emperours, and several Arch-Dukes, it hath power of life and death, not only over them that actually study, but a great part of the City and Neighbourhood, for the Do­ctors in the Town, the Sta­tioners, [Page 46] Engravers, Book­binders, Apothecaries, Chi­rurg [...]ons, and those too, who attain indirectly to Learning, are subject to the Academical Tribunal, where the Causes of Pupils and Widdows, and some apper­taining to Matrimony, are heard and determined.

The Territory of Vienna is plain, yet rising in some places into easie Hills plant­ed with Vines. It produceth Wheat enough for the Inha­bitants, as also Rie, Barley, Millet-seed and Pease, Chest­nuts too and Almonds, Pea­ches, Quinces and many sorts of Apples and Pears, and excellent Saffron, but neither Figs, Olives, or Lemmons, unless extraordinary indu­stry, [Page 47] and diligence be used. And every thing growing there, smells somewhat of Brimstone, for the Soil is sul­phureous.

The Air is sharp in the Winter, in so much as not only the Waters, which are standing and immoveable, but the Danube it self is fre­quently frozen, and serves as it were for a Bridge to the Coaches and Carts. The vigour of that Season they expel with their Stoves, in which they have the Spring, together with the Summer and Autumn at their plea­sure.

The Summer is temperate, and yet hot enough to ripen their Fruits. They have fre­quent Winds, which, if they [Page 48] cease long in the Summer, the Plague ensues often, so as they have a Proverb, If Austria be not windy, it is subject to Contagion. The Plague, when it comes there, is commonly in Autumn, and seldom spreads much, as it doth in other places, in re­gard of the exquisite dili­gence they use to prevent it, and the coldness of the Win­ter approaching, which quickly suppresseth the force of that Poyson.

The things of curiosity, that deserve to be seen in the City, are the Emperours Treasure, the Arch-Dukes Gallery, the Church and Steeple of Saint Stephen, the Treasure of the Church, and the Sepulchre of Otho, as [Page 49] likewise the Arsenals, the Colledge and profest House of the Jesuits, the Church and Convent of the Bene­dictines, the Bishops Palace, the Church and Convent of the Dominicans, with that of the Franciscans, where they shew a Hole of Strangers, through which, as they af­firm, the Devil once carried away a sacrilegious Person, and it never could be clos'd up again.

In the Suburbs, Favorith is worthy to be seen, as like­wise the Garden of the Bi­shop, the House and Garden of the Earl of Traun, with those of the Prince of Aver­sperg, and others. Nor is the Church and Monastery of the Carmelites, nor that of the [Page 50] Augustines, with the Hermi­tage of the Capucines, the lit­tle Spanish Monastery, and the Convent of the Servi, to be unregarded.

In fine, Vienna is little within the Walls, but as beautiful, as strong, and a­bounds not with only what Austria and Hungary affords, but that too which Italy can contribute. The Markets are most plentifully supply'd, and there's great store of Flesh, and fresh-water Fish, especially Crawfish, which are in that abundance, as 'tis almost incredible. And 'tis too as strange, to one that doth not know it, how infa­mous a killer of Dogs is re­puted at Vienna, which, being the Office of the Hangman, [Page 51] or his Deputies (who on Wednesdayes and Fridayes go seeking for Dogs, and kill all that are not privi­ledged with Collars) makes the Party so hated and con­temn'd, that none will keep him company.

BUt to think of our jour­ney into Turky, on the five and twentieth instant, my Lord din'd with the Prince of Lichtenstein, in the company of his Excellency Count Lesley, who that day departed from Vienna about three of the Clock, all the Persons of Quality, that ac­companied him in that Em­bassy, following him to the Water-side, in Coaches with six Horses apiece, but the [Page 52] throngs of Spectators were so great (for never the like Embassy was seen in Vienna) they could scarce get to the Barques, which, though large, and six and thirty in number, were but sufficient for his Excellency and his Company, which amounted to two hundred twenty and two.

His Excellencies Barque was bigger, and much hand­somer than the rest, and ha­ving eight Trumpetters and a Kettle-drum aboard it, which sounded all the way▪ and beautified with variety of Streamers, drew all the eyes thither.

In this manner, and in or­der (for one Barque follow­ed another, according to the [Page 53] quality of the Persons with­in it) we arrived at Vischen, some four leagues from Vien­na, on the right hand of the Danube, whither the Prince of Dietrichstein, and the Earl of Trauttmansdorff waited on the Ambassadour; and here we all lodged in the Boats, as we did all along to Belgrade, his Excellency, and the Ca­valiers with him, having Beds in the Barques, and all accommodation very suta­ble to their quality▪

We departed the next morning about seven of the Clock, and passing by Petro­nel, Taben and Haimburg, ar­rived at Presburgh about noon, whither his Excellency was welcom'd by the Canon from the Castle, and received [Page 54] and complemented at the Water-side, by the Palatine or Viceroy Vesselleni, who, accompanyed by Count Palsi and other Hungarian Lords, had eight Coaches in readi­ness for his Excellency, and the Persons of Quality with him, whom he carried to his Pleasure-house, in a Garden without the Town, and feasted most magnificent­ly.

Presburg, the Metropolis now of Hungary, is an old and neat Town, and plea­santly seated. In the Sub­urbs, on a high Mountain, is a very strong Castle, where the Regal Crown is kept, and below in the bottom, on both sides the Danube, most large and happy Pa­stures [Page 55] are presented to the eye.

The Kingdom of Hungary (to speak a little of it, now we are on the Place) was formerly extended from the Pontick Sea to Austria, and from Poland to the Adria­tick Gulph, containing with­in it ten very large Kingdoms, which as Feudators depend­ed on that Crown, so as the King of Hungary was then an Arch-King. But from the year of our Lord, one thou­sand three hundred and ninety six, to this our present Age, it hath been much and often afflicted with intestine Contentions and Discords, so as the better part is subject to the Turks, it only retain­ing a very small figure of the [Page 56] ancient Liberty, Dignity and Greatness it had, and having scarce now as many strong Cities, as it formerly had Kingdoms.

On the East it hath Tran­sylvania, on the West Austria and Styria, on the North the Carpathian Mountains, Po­land and Moravia, and on the South the River Drave and Croatia. The Meadows are so luxuriant, that the Grass in many places almost equals the stature of a man, and they have such store of Cattel, that they send very many into Italy, Germany, and other remote Countreys, and only on the way to Vien­na, 'tis reported, that four­score thousand Oxen were driven one year into Germa­ny.

[Page 57]It abounds with Fowl and wild Beasts, which the Pea­sants have liberty to kill; for Fish they have store, which the Rivers of Hungary are full of, especially the Besch, of which it is commonly said, two parts of it are Water, and the third Fish.

The Soil is most fruitful, for what in other Countreys is produced with labour and charge, flows here with more ease, and without the Art of dressing and manuring the Ground. It hath several sorts of Vines, and some for the de­licacy not inferiour to the Italian.

Of all sorts of Metals it hath store, (Tin only ex­cepted) and the Gold they get out of the Mountains, is [Page 58] compar'd to, and preferred before the Arabian, and that of Peru.

But the Hungarians, from the highest to the lowest, are generally as bad as the Coun­trey is good, being treacher­ous to one, another, and ha­ters of Strangers.

And this may be enough of the Kingdom of Hun­gary.

On the seven and twenti­eth in the morning, we fol­lowing the course of the Danube, arrived at a little Island about noon, and din'd aboard the Barques; whence departing after dinner, we passed by Alfenburg, some four by Land, but by Water ten Leagues distant from [...]resburg, by reason of the [Page 59] turnings and windings of the River. The next place was Wiselburg, which is seated on the right hand of the Da­nube, over against the Isle of Schutt.

The next morning early we prosecuted our Journey, and passing by the Villages of Kymela, St. Paul, Petceier, and Samring, in a Meadow, some half a League from Raab, we disimbarqued and din'd.

After dinner we advanced to the Fortress of Raab a­foresaid, where the Ambas­sadour was saluted in this manner: On the right hand three Troops of the Hussars, or Hungarian Horse stood ranged in order, together with three Companies of the [Page 60] Heyducks, or Foot, and three Companies of German Mus­keteers. Besides, the Basti­ons commanding the River, were fill'd with the Souldiers of the Garrison, and had all the Guns planted and in readiness, so as when his Ex­cellencies Barque approach­ed the Fortress, they so re­gularly gave fire, that the Bastions all seconded one another in a moment, as the Horse and Foot did, which discharged three times.

His Excellency was in­treated to lodge in the Town, and pressed the more, in regard the night came on, but he urging, that (besides his Imperial Majesties Com­mands, to pursue with all diligence his Journey) the [Page 61] Turkish Ambassadour impa­tiently expected him, at the place of the interview and exchange, excused himself from accepting then that Honour, which he promis'd to receive at his return out of Turky. These Comple­ments ended, the Ambassa­dour went on without fur­ther stay, and passed by Mar­hoffen, the first Village Tri­butary to both the Empe­rours, and a League from Co­morro.

The next day General Souches, the Governour of the place, sent fourteen Boats to meet and wait on the Am­bassadour, in eight of which were Heyducks, and Germans in the rest. These Boats were of the fashion of little [Page 62] Galleys, long and narrow, and had thirteen Oars on a side: The back-end resembled our Barges, but was rather hoop­ed up, as our Watermen do their Boats, for two or three to sit on a side, and they carry before, some two, some three little Field-pieces, which shoot at a great distance; and along on either side stand as many Pikes as Oars, each Pike having a little Flag up­on it, which is the Armes for Horsemen, as well for the Turks as Hungarians. At his Excellencies arrival they discharged the Field-pieces and Muskets in the Boats, and six & thirty Canon from the new Fortress of Comor­ra. In the mean time Gene­ral Souches came out of the Town [Page 63] to the Danube, and going aboard the Ambassadours Boat, first saluted and com­plemented him, and the Ca­valiers afterwards, conduct­ing them all into the For­tress, at the entrance into which they were welcom'd with twenty great Guns, dis­charg'd from the inward Fort, and likewise with the Volleys of three Companies of Heyducks, one Troop of Hussars, and two Companies of Germans. In this manner the Ambassadour was re­ceiv'd into the Governours Residence, out of which, through a Gallery, he past to the Works, to take a little view of the Fortifications of the Place, while all things were drepared for his better [Page 64] entertainment, and his Re­tinues at dinner, which was splendid and magnificent; and the Canon of the For­tress, being sixty brass Pieces, all roared like thunder at the many Healths they drank, for each Health of consequence was attended by three Can­non. At night General Souches, to shew all imagina­ble respect to the Ambassa­dour, entertain'd him with rare Fire-works, not only disposed on each side of the Danube, but plac'd too (by the help of some Boats) in the middle of the River, which succeeded so happily, that generally the Spectators receiv'd all content and satis­faction.

[Page 65]The Fortress of Comorro is of a triangular form, and seated in an Angle of the Isle of Schutt, between the Rivers Danube and Waage.

The Garrison of the place, in that 'tis so considerable a Bulwark against the Maho­metans, consists most of Ger­mans, whom the Governour rather trusts than the Na­tives.

The next morning about ten of the clock, being em­barqued, and all ready to de­part, General Souches (who accompanyed the Ambassa­dour) ordered fourteen Barques to tow us to the other side of the River, while five and twenty Can­non were discharged from the Fortress, and all the small [Page 66] Guns in the boats. Here we made a halt, a little short of a Village call'd Sennack, the first of the Territories of the Turks, where we made a ha­sty Dinner, and immediately afterwards all landed for the interview. The Turks coming by land, were on horseback, and many as ill horsed as clad. Their Wag­gons and Baggage stai'd a little behind them, as our Barques likewise did, which though but thirty six, made much the better shew, espe­cially by the addition of Ge­neral Souches Boats.

The Turks as we landed lighted off their Horses, their number being less than two hundred, and ours under three, but they agreed on [Page 67] both sides to meet with a less number. We saw before us, as the Turks before them, three great Posts erected for Boundaries and limits of the borders, the middle of which was the mark of the con­fines. About twenty paces nearer to each other, we drew up to our Posts on each side, while the mutual Guards of four Troops of Horse on a side, stood facing one ano­ther. Each Ambassadour then departed at the same time from his Post, and so arriv'd together at that in the middle, each being ac­companyed only with ten of his chiefest Comrades. Ge­neral Souches was on the Ambassadours right hand, and Commissary Feichtinger [Page 68] on the left, his Excellencies Train being born by two Gentlemen of the Countrey. The Turkish Ambassadour Mahomet Bashaw, though he actually perform'd not the Office of Basha, yet being of the Councel of War, was held in great esteem with the Turks, and accompanyed with the Basha of Alba Re­galis, some Begues an Aga and Janizaries, which said Basha of Alba Regalis, the Grand Signior sent expresly to vye with the Emperours pom­pous Embassy, since no Am­bassadour had the honour be­fore, to have an actual Basha for his Commissary.

The two Ambassadours meeting at the Post afore­said, complemented each [Page 69] other by an Interpreter, and enquiring of the healths of their Masters, with their re­ciprocal wishes of a durable Peace, joyn'd hands, and de­parted, the Basha of Alba Re­galis conducting his Excel­lency to his Boat, and Gene­ral Souches consigning the Turkish Ambassadour to Commissary Feichtinger, and the Hungarian Convoy. This Ceremony ended, the Chri­stians and Turks began to sound Trumpets, and beat Kettle-drums in testimony of their joy, we entring again into our Boats, which were manned by Turks (for the Christian Watermen return­ed now back) and the Tur­kish Ambassadour pursuing his journey by Land.

[Page 70]In our passage to Strigoni­um, call'd vulgarly Gran, a Garrison of the Turks, where we arrived that night, and were welcom'd by the Cannon, and several Volleys of Shot; the Mahometan Watermen, who tow'd us down the Stream, in expressi­ons of their gladness, often cry'd out like mad-men, and utter'd uncouth words of Mahomet their Prophet.

The Turkish Souldiers that guarded us (for we lay without the Town) were civil and courteous, so as we conversed and walked fami­liarly among them. That night after Supper, two of our Barques unty'd from the rest, and driving down the Stream towards the Bridge [Page 71] (where they who were with­in apprehended some dan­ger, in regard of the swiftness of the Current) occasion'd great confusion and horror. But the Storm was soon ap­peas'd, for the Souldiers came readily to our help, and re­liev'd and secur'd us, e're the Barques arriv'd the Bridge.

The Governour of Gran, accompanying the Turkish Ambassadour a part of his way, returned back late the same night, in so much that he visited not Count Lesley till the following morning, and then he came on horse­back, and very well attended his Horses Furniture being noble and rich, with a Bag of Taffaty about his Neck, [Page 72] wherein were Horses tails, which none but those of quality are permitted to have. This Begue, (who is said to be the Favourite of the Basha of Newheusel, who procur'd him that Govern­ment) sent his Excellency a Present of Wines, four Cows, some Fowl, Fish and other Provisions.

Count Lesley, though he return'd not the Governours visit, yet sent him by Count Herberstein, and the Baron of Finvekercken, some Sweet­meats, a Clock, and a pair of Pistols, which he courteously received, with the discharge of some great Guns, in ho­nour of the Ambassadour, and when he had treated them with Coffee and Sher­bet, [Page 73] and led them round the Walls of the Castle, he civil­ly dismiss'd them, not with­out a great sense of the fa­vour done to him. This morning the Basha of Alba Regalis askt leave of the Ambassadour to go wait on the Visier of Buda, and in­form him of his Excellencies motion and advance, to the end he might have all things in readiness for his better reception.

The one and thirtieth be­ing Sunday, his Excellency heard Mass in a Tent▪ in a ve­ry open place before the Turks (having all along be­fore still heard it in his Barque) and departed after dinner; and while we were traversing the River, to pass [Page 74] the Bridge of Boats, the Gar­rison of Gran gave us twen­ty great Guns. Between two and three leagues of this place, we passed by Vicegrade, a ruinous Castle on the top of a Hill, with a Town in the bottom of that name. In our passage they discharged eight Cannon, which by rea­son of the turnings and windings of the Danube among the Rocks and Woods, made a terrible noise. The River near this place dividing it self, makes a very considerable Island, as well for the largeness, as fertility of the place.

That night we lay near Vacia, a City much decay'd, and formerly the Seat of a Bishop, which from the time [Page 75] of Solyman the Magnificent, in the space of a hundred and thirty years, had chan­ged its Master twenty times▪ and had often been plun­der'd, and once set on fire.

The first of June in the morning, we arrived at Buda, formerly the Metropolis and Royal Residence of Hunga­ry, and indeed for the plea­sant scituation, a place truly Regal, having on the one side Hills fruitful in Vines, and large and rich Meadows on the other, with the Danube gliding by them. The place looks as design'd for the Em­pire of Hungary, and though formerly beautified with many noble Fabricks, now ruinous and decay'd, being [Page 76] inhabited for the most part by Souldiers, who looking no farther than the date of their lives, make shift for their time, and so they lye but dry, and secure them­selves and Horses from the injury of the Weather, 'tis all they regard; and indeed all along as we travelled, and even at Constantinople it self, the Houses in general are mean.

Here the Ambassadour at his landing was usher'd into a Royal Tent, most sumptu­ously prepared for that pur­pose by the Kehaia, or Grand Visiers Steward, a Person of worth and civility, and when he had din'd, the Visier of Buda sent the next in office under him, to visit and com­plement [Page 77] his Excellency, who came with a splendid Reti­nue. The Ambassadour sate in State in a Chair, the Basha▪ with his Excellencies Com­rades, sitting like Taylers on Carpets, or standing as they pleased, only my Lord and Count Herberstein had the priviledge of sitting on a great Cushion by the Ambas­sadours side. They passed near two hours in this man­ner, while the Horse and Foot rang'd along the Shore▪ to the number of five thou­sand, marcht into the City near his Excellencies Tent▪ and a barbarous noise of Tabers, Drums, Trumpets and Cymbals, with other warlike Instruments of joy resounded in all places. In [Page 80] the Emperours special order, that in case Count Lesley mis­carried in the Journey, he might supply his place.

Next to this Gentleman, my Lord had priority, not for the merit of his birth (though all lookt upon him in the quality of a Duke, according to the custom of Germany) but by reason of his Lordships rare parts and endowments. For though the Ambassadour had of his Retinue, many Persons of eminent condition, of seve­ral Christian Nations, as par­ticularly the Duke of Hol­stein, who being an absolute Prince, had right to the pre­cedence of all the Cavaliers, yet still in all occurrences my Lord was preferr'd.

[Page 81]These said Lords on Hor­ses, which the Visier of Buda had sent, rode along to the Town, accompanyed by ano­ther Visier, and several Guards of Janizaries, together with the Interpreter and Secreta­ry of the Embassy. As soon as they alighted at the Pa­lace, they were first carried up, and received in the pub­lick place of audience, till the Visier was advertis'd of their coming, and then they were straight usher'd in, and plac'd face to face against him, and sate in Chairs of Velvet, as he did, such as are used in Christendom, which is an extraordinary favour and grace among the Turks. All they desired, the Visier granted readily, and treating [Page 82] them civilly, and cloathing them with Caftans (which resemble Porters Cloaks, with long sleeves to the ground, and the armes thrust out of the slits, and are of a Stuffe like Italian Brocados, of Thread and Silk with a mixture of Silver) dismist them with abundance of ce­remony and kindness.

That evening as the Am­bassadour was at Supper in his Tent, the Turks stood ga­ping and staring extreamly, to whom the Gavaliers gave Sweet-meats and Biskets (for they love Sugar dearly) and some of the Bashas, and the Aga (who that night commanded the Guard) sate down with his Excellency, and drank Wine as free­ly [Page 83] as any at the Table.

The Turks were strangely pleas'd with the Ambassa­dours Musick, both the vocal and instrumental, and indeed they had reason, for theirs is the worst in the World. One of them play'd on a Cittern, and sang before his Excellency, but it was like Tom a Bedlam, only a little sweetned with a Portugal like Mimikry. And the Mu­sick most esteem'd among the Souldiery, is the shrillest and squeakingest Trumpet that ever was heard, and a Bagpipe-like Instrument, such as accompanies the Jackanapes to the Bear-gar­den, with other ill Pipes and Hoboys, approaching the nea­rest to our worst City-Waits.

[Page 84]The third of June his Excellency had audience, and accordingly that morn­ing, the worst of the Turks, and the meanest of the Am­bassadours Retinue, marcht foremost two by two, but the Christians by themselves, on­ly the chiefest Cavaliers had each to his Companion a Basha, who rode on the left hand, the best place esteemed for Souldiers by them, as the right among Schollars.

The Prime Collonel of the Janizaries rode before the Ambassadour, and alone, with a huge and flat white Feather, like an old and large Queen Elizabeths Fan, but four times as wide, and the corner forward, not flat. There walk'd too afoot be­fore [Page 85] his Excellency, a bel­lows-mouth'd and butcher­like fellow, who made a hi­deous noise all along, which call'd the Boyes together, and caus'd young and old to repair to the Windows, to be Witnesses and Spectators of the shew, which doubtless the Women (who lookt out at Iron-grates, and are kept in great slavery) were very glad to see, for indeed it was pompous.

In the Gate, where we en­ter'd, we saw a strong Guard, and on both sides of the Streets, all along to the Pa­lace of the Visier, the Jani­zaries stood in Armes, which were excellently good, espe­cially the Gun and Musket: They are short, but wide bo­red [Page 86] and heavy, and carry twice the charge of those we have in England, and many of the Janizaries had Coats of Male down to their Knees.

The Visier of Buda re­ceiv'd the Ambassadour, as he had done my Lord and Count Herberstein before, but with more of the same stile and state. His Excel­lency and the Visier only sate, the Cavaliers and Turks standing round, and the Room, though very large, was so crowded and throng­ed, there was scarce any stirring from one place to another.

The Complements ended, and the Visier receiving the Ambassadours Presents, gave [Page 87] sixty Caftans to his Excellen­cy and his Followers, which we put on over the rest of our Clothes, and so rode back as we came, being sixty Horse only, for the Visier gave but sixty Caftans, but the Footmen had distributed among them as many yards of Cloath, of red and purple colours, as serv'd to make Vests for each.

The four Bashas, with the Aga and Begue, which accom­pany'd the Ambassadour to, and from the Visier, din'd that day with his Excellency, and drinking very plentiful­ly of the Wine, pocketted up in their Breasts (where they carry several things as in Pockets) abundance of Sweet-meats and Sugar­plums.

[Page 88]Here the poorer sort of People wear no Turbants, but Caps with, or without Fur, according to their abi­lity, and all the Women ge­nerally (those only except­ed that are old or very young) have their Faces muffled with Linnen, so as little is seen but their Eyes, and a part of their Noses.

They have no Clocks, but at certain times of the day, some Persons appointed for the same, for which they have a Sallary, go up into a kind of Balcone round the Steeple of the Mosches or Churches, and with a noise, hideous enough to affright all unacquainted with the sound, cry alowd, how the day doth pass away.

[Page 89]Every great Person buyes, and hath a kind of Standard, which is carryed before him when he rides, or stuck in his Boat, like a small Mast or May pole, when he goes by Water, for which he payes a thousand Dollars to the Vi­sier, chief Basha, or Gover­nour of the place he belongs to, and 'tis no more than six or seven Horses tails dy'd of several Colours, and hung round the top of the Pole aforesaid. The Souldiers too use these kinds of Standards as Cornets.

In the Palace at Buda are several Courts, and in one a fair Fountain of Marble, with a Bason, or huge Shell of Brass, with the Armes of the Kings of Hungary, sup­ported [Page 90] with Snails of that Metal. On the right hand are the Stairs, the upper part of which hath Rails and Ballestres of Porphyrie. The Dining-room is prodigiously great, and the Windows pro­portionable, with the Jaumes of red Marble, as the Chim­ney-piece is, which is curi­ously carved and rich, and at the end of the said Dining-room is a noble square Chamber.

About the said Palace ma­ny pieces of Brass are enclo­sed in several places apart, which the Turks admit not Christians to see, unless by some particular favour.

The hot Bath here (for which Buda is celebrated) hath the Pavement of Mar­ble, [Page 91] and the Fountain that feeds it is so luxuriant in Water, that what runs in waste drives two Powder­mills, and a Corn-mill. The Pond, where the Spring rises, is said to have Fish, which if true, may be said to be par­boyl'd, but Frogs I saw in it. The chief Bath is so hot, that it presently causeth Sweat, and is very much fre­quented. Before your Eye can find it, you enter a square Room, with Windows on both sides, and light from the top, with places erected from the ground, and cover'd with Mats and Carpets, to repose on after bathing, with a place in the middle for the Clothes of the ordinary Peo­ple, and round about the [Page 92] Room hang Clothes in the nature of Aprons, which the Bathers put before them, and persons there attending do furnish them with, who, while they are bathing, do wash their Boots or Shooes, the way the Turks use for making them clean. Having bathed enough, and drest themselves again, on a Stall, that is cover'd with Carpets, the Receiver of the Money sits demanding his due, which is inconsiderably lit­tle.

But to return to the City (for the Bath is without the Town) Buda is at present in so tatter'd a condition, that could Solyman the Magnifi­cent return from the dead, he would change and recant his [Page 93] Opinion, of thinking it the fairest City in the World. And as for the Library, which the Visier permitted to be seen, and formerly was the glory of the World, for it had a thousand Vo­lumes of rare and choice Books, of excellent Authors of the Eastern Church, how poor a thing 'tis now, and how much disagreeing with the fame and ancient lustre it had, since the few Books it hath are of little or no use, being almost consum'd by Moths, Dust and Rats.

During our stay here, I visited a Turkish Convent, where some Religious Per­sons, call'd Dervis, inhabited, who live all in common, and have only what they get, [Page 94] each being of one Trade or other. They live morally well, and do no wrong to any, and while they live in common, they are not to marry, but if they take a Wife, they retire and live a­part, however they continue still religious, and meet in their Cloysters on Fridayes and Tuesdayes, the dayes of their Devotion and Cere­monies.

They receive and lodge Travellers, and what they have to eat, give them freely part of it, and usually have a Fountain at the door, with a Wooden-dish fastened to a Chain, with which they give Water to Passengers, and in­deed the Turks generally are hospitable to Strangers.

[Page 95]There are other Religious men among the Turks, which are known by the name of Santons, but are Vagabonds and poor, and addicted to all sorts of Vices, and particu­larly to Sodomy, yet many of the Turks are so sensless and blind, to hold them for Saints.

Over against Buda (where a Dutch man, a Painter of our Company, who was sick of a Feaver, leapt into the Danube, and was drowned) is the ruinous City of Pest, where there is a little Con­vent of Franciscans, and se­veral poor Christians, who often are subject to many affronts and insolencies of the Turks, especially when in Wine, which albeit prohi­bited [Page 96] by their Law, yet many make bold with, especially the younger sort of people, who indulge themselves the more, since they are of Opi­nion, that their punishment after death is the same, and not greater, if they drink but a little, or much, so as once having tasted of Wine, they use to drink on, having less restraint afterwards upon them. And 'tis said, an old Turk in Constantinople, when he had a Cup of Wine in his hand, and was about to drink it, first cry'd out alowd, and askt, why he did so, re­ply'd, that he admonished his Soul to retire into some cor­ner of his Body, or vanish for a time, that it might not be polluted with the Wine he was drinking.

[Page 97]From Buda we descended to Adam and Tschankurtaran, whither Solyman the Mag­nificent, when he raised his Siege from Vienna, made all the haste he could, not think­ing himself out of danger, till he got to that place, which he called, The refresh­ing of his Soul.

Thence we came to Ba­soka, and passing by Pentole and Fodwar, arrived at Tolna. The next place was Waia, then Mohachz, from whence we saw the Castle of Zetz­chuy, the ancient Seat of the illustrious Family of the Palfi. This Town was very fatal to Hungary by the loss of King Lodowick, in order to whose death various things are reported.

[Page 98]The Plain where the Bat­tel was fought is about half a League from the place, and as large, as free from Wood, and Incumbrances of that sort, but the River Carassus glides gently between, whose Water moves so slowly, it hardly seems to stir. Hither the King fled, whom the darkness of the night, and the fear of his Enemies pur­suing, gave not time to ex­plore and sound the miry passage, into which his Horse rushing, and falling, stifled him with the weight of his Armour. Many of the No­bility, together with six Bi­shops, and ten thousand Horse, and twelve thousand Foot, are said to have perisht in that Battel, in memory of [Page 99] which slaughter, Solyman, who was present at the fight, caus'd a Fabrick of Wood to be erected, which remains to this day, and now only serves as a retreat to the Beasts from the heat of the Sun.

The tenth we went to Wi­lack, and the next day to Erdeod, where the Annuntia­tion of our blessed Lady continues in painting.

The twelfth we came to Valkovar, where in the River Valpus (which abounds with good Fish) a dead Body came swimming down the Stream.

The next place was Illock, where we saw the Sepulchre of a Son of the King of Bos­nia, together with the ruines of a Monastery.

[Page 100]Hence we past by Petro­varadine to Salankemen, a City and Castle very plea­santly seated, and proud with old Buildings.

Here (where the Tibiseus is joyn'd to the Danube) we staid till the Couriers (who often went betwixt the said place and Belgrade) had ad­justed all the Ceremonies for the Ambassadours reception. Signore Giovanni Battista Ca­sanova, the Emperours new Resident for Turky, came hi­ther after dinner from Bel­grade, to wait on his Excel­lency, and discourse about all things, in order to his en­trance and stay in that Town, whither the Ambassa­dour was welcom'd by the roaring of the Cannon, the [Page 101] Volleys of the Souldiers, and Showts of the People, who flockt in that manner to see us come ashore, that the Town was quite unfurnish'd of Inhabitants. Two thou­sand or more were in Armes at our landing (for not Bel­grade alone, but other little Towns, though with less ostentation, came out to re­ceive us) but not all fit for service, for some were decre­pit, and others too young, whose Fathers the year be­fore had been drown'd in the fatal River of Raab in Hun­gary. These wearing the Caps of Janizaries, supply'd their Fathers places, and with their Armes across, and Countenances dejected, stood among the other Soul­diers. [Page 100] [...] [Page 101] [...] [Page 102] And though in appear­ance they might seem born for no other end, than to eat up the Fruits of the Earth, yet from their tender age they have a martial Spirit in­still'd into them, from which the Nerves and Sinews of the Ottoman Empire derive their force and vigour.

The Camycan or Gover­nour of the Town, the Ca­pigi-Basha, and the Hassan-Aga of the Bed-chamber to the Sultan (whom the Prime Visier had order'd to attend the Ambassadour) congra­tulating his arrival, conduct­ed him to his Tents, which were pitcht on the side of a Hill, not far from the River, where his Excellency rather chose to remain, than to [Page 103] lodge in the City, whose pro­spect from Salankemen is most pleasant and delightful, as is the scituation, the place be­ing washt by two great and famous Rivers, the Sava and the Danube, where the former soon looseth its name.

Our passage from Vienna to Belgrade was with very much ease, accommodation and de­light, for we went down the Stream, and when we came to Land, as in the afternoons we continually did) the Turks, to shew how welcome we were, made us Arbours and Bowers to secure us from the Sun.

After Supper we walk'd usually on the Shore, and sometimes stray'd a little, in­vited and transported with [Page 104] the verdure of the place, and the many pleasant Objects we met with.

The Boats lying one by one, took up much space of ground, and look'd like some Navy at Anchor, while the Passengers going to and from them, appear'd a little Army, and 'twas pretty to hear them inquire of one a­nother for their Vessels, which when they had lost, they were forc'd to use a fi­gure to find, for the Boats were distinguished by num­bers.

'Twas likewise not un­pleasant to walk among the Turks and the Greeks, and see them dress their Meat in the Fields, and sleep about the Fires they had made, [Page 105] which commonly were great, there being much Wood, and do restraint on any that cut it.

Belgrade (which is seated at the confluence of the Da­nube and Sava aforesaid, and on that side, where 'tis joyn­ed to the Land, hath the Ca­stle) was first besieg'd by Amurath, and afterwards by Mahomet, who took Con­stantinople, but the Hungari­ans and other Christians de­fending it stoutly, the Turks were repell'd with a conside­rable loss. At length Soly­man, in the beginning of his reign, finding it unprovided of men, and consequently unfit to hold out a Siege, by the negligence of Lodowick the young King of Hungary, [Page 106] and the variance and dissen­tions of the Nobility, and others, reduc'd it with much ease into his power.

The Suburbs (where se­veral Nations, as Greeks, Jews and others inhabit) are spatious and great, and usu­ally in the Confines of Turky, the Suburbs are greater than the Cities themselves.

Here while we remained, his Excellency was visited by the Ambassadours of Ragu­sa, which commonly go in pairs to the Ottoman Court. They came on horseback with forty Attendants, all waiting upon them afoot, two only excepted, and were quarter'd in the Town, which with Janizaries we had liberty to see, for tis un­safe [Page 107] for Strangers to go by themselves, and withall we were commanded to the contrary, as likewise in cases of affronts from the Turks, to support them with a Chri­stian Magnanimity and pati­ence.

The Christians of Belgrade, not accustomed to see so ma­ny persons together, of the same faith with them, espe­cially of Quality, were trans­ported with joy at the Am­bassadours arrival, and 'tis not imaginable with what great affection they receiv'd us in their Houses, particular­ly a Greek Merchant, Signore Marco Manicato, who shew­ing us all sort of harmless li­berty and freedom, made us excellent Chear, and produ­cing [Page 108] his best Wines, did put us in mind of the ancient merry Greeks, for he drink­ing like a Fish, and beating a Drum betwixt whiles with his bare Fingers only, and singing to it, was so pleasant and jocund, that he flung, as we usually say, the House out of the Windows. His Drum was remarkable, for 'twas only a huge Earthen-bottle in fashion like a wide-neck Ale-jug, with the bottom out, whose top was only co­ver'd and stopt with thin Velum or Parchment, and on this, with his Fingers, he made a pleasing noise. In fine, we were so welcom'd, that seeming to wonder at the unsutableness of his poor and mean House, to his rich [Page 109] Mind and Fortune, he began (with many cursings and in­veighings against the Grand Signior, and his slavish way of treating his Subjects and Vassals) to tell us, that if he, or any other Christian, did but seem to increase in any sort of plenty and magnifi­cence, he straightwayes was sure to be squeez'd, over­taxed and rifled according­ly, without any other reason given, or possibility of relief; though indeed this Treat­ment doth seem the less cru­el, since they are forewarned of it, and have so very little assurance of their Childrens enjoying any thing long af­ter their deaths. Yet 'tis not as many write (and we among the rest did believe, [Page 110] till otherwise informed on the place) that the Grand Signiors Subjects are all his Slaves, and can bequeath no­thing to their Children, he being the sole Heir and dis­poser of all, for albeit in some this be true, yet in others se­veral Customs are predomi­nant, and raign, and are duly enough observ'd, some inhe­riting half, some more, some less, according to their seve­ral Tenures, Capitulations and Agreements; for when the Grand Signior makes any new Conquest, those which will stay and duly pay their Tribute, their Children and Money do run the hazard only of feeling now and then his extrajudicial way of be­ing squeez'd, but otherwise [Page 111] may quietly enjoy all their Lands and Revenues, though willingly the Sultan cares for no Christian Subjects, but poor distressed Peasants, such as do feed Cattel, and till and cultivate the Lands, since no native Turk will hardly ever work, but generally they are Souldiers, and the most of them Horsemen, for the best sort of Foot, especially in Europe, are the Christians tributary Children, the Ja­nizaries, who know no other home, nor have other love, then that of their Emperours greatness.

Their best Horse are the Spahyes, and such of them, especially, who for merit are rewarded with Lands, which are called Timarrs, and are [Page 112] like our old Knights-services here: As for example, a Horseman hath a Village al­lotted him, perhaps some a Farm, some more, and some less in proportion, which they hold during life, and according to the value of the Lands, are bound to find more or less Horsemen, to serve at all times, when the Grand Signior wars and calls upon them. Some have but one, others more, to the num­ber of twenty, and few a­bove, and a Revenue of twenty or thirty Pound [...] Sterling, is reckon'd for [...] Timarre. These Tenures are still disposed of from hand to hand, on the deaths or re­spective behaviours of his Subjects, not only through­out [Page 113] the greatest part of his ancientest Dominions, but practis'd so likewise where he conquers any Land on the Christians, or others, where his usual stile is, to seize first on all the Domains of the conquered Prince, and of what belongs to such as are kill'd or fled, as also of the Churches Revenues and Royalties, which they in this manner divide into Timarrs, and the residue, which be­longs to such Christians as will stay, they suffer them to enjoy, and inherit, as I said, some all, some half, on such several Conditions, as they promised and granted to them. But their tyrannous Government, together with the laziness and pride of the [Page 114] Natives, is the reason all their Countreys lye desart in a manner, so as scarce in a dayes march we met with a Village, and all along the Danube, as we went to Bel­grade, and so in all our Jour­ney to Adrianople, we saw vast Woods and Fields, with very rich Campagnias, all de­solate as it were, or for Pa­sture at best, and here and there a little and inconside­rable patch of Corn, since, as I said before, all the cul­ture is from Christians, who though for the most part of the Greek Church, yet they, as well as Catholicks, in most great Towns have their Chappels and Churches, and every where free liberty of their Religion. Jews also, [Page 115] though inferiour in number, have the like, which joyn'd to the Christians, exceed far the number of the Turks, to whom, though many Wives are allow'd, and Concubines not forbidden by their Law, yet few but Grandees have more than one or two, and likewise few Children, which when the Parent dyes are left to Gods mercy and the Great Turks unmercifulness, since of the greatest Persons, who are born Turks among them, the Child seldom in­herits, the Wives inconside­rably little, and the Concu­bines nothing, unless some ready Money, which is like­wise done with privacy.

But to leave as well this Subject at present, as the [Page 116] Town of Belgrade, where I fear, I have detained the Reader too long, I shall only acquaint him, that as our coming thither was of great joy to many, so our going away was to many as sad▪ especially to the Captives of Austria, who deploring their slavish condition, could not hope for any liberty and re­demption, till at the Ambas­sadours return from Constan­tinople, which by his media­tion, and the great liberality of the Province of Austria▪ was afterwards very happily effected. But on Midsum­mer-day, the Feast of Saint John Baptist, the Turks on the contrary side, in memory of the Sacrifice of Abraham, expressed extraordinary joy, [Page 117] by the discharge of the Guns from the Castle, which were answered by the Volleys of the Souldiers.

In the mean time the Am­bassadour had advice from Adrianople, that the Grand Visier made extraordinary preparations for his Excel­lencies entertainment, so as if he made too much haste, he could not have so splendid a reception. The Ambassa­dour therefore was to make easie Journeys, which easily was granted and consented unto.

The six and twentieth of June, with above two hun­dred Waggons, each Wag­gon having three, and four Horses some, besides Saddle­horses for many, we departed [Page 118] from Belgrade to Isarchich, where we lost the pleasant sight of the Danube. The Ambassadour had four Coaches with six Horses a­piece, one of which he rode in himself, with my Lord and Count Herberstein. In the second and third was his Ex­cellencies Nephew my Lord Hay, with his Chaplain and others, and the fourth, which was the richest, and carried no body in it, was presented at Adrianople to the Empe­rour of Turky.

The rest of the Ambassa­dours Comrades and Reti­nue had generally Waggons for themselves, their Beds and their Baggage, and usu­ally in the mornings about one of the Clock, the Trum­pets [Page 119] gave us notice to be stir­ring, which commonly soun­ded twice, but the first time was preparatory, and only in order to the fitting of the Waggons, and packing up of things against the second sounding, at what time we marched by Torch-light, to decline the great heats, and in case any Waggons chanc'd to break on the way, or the Horses did tire, the Commis­saries appointed for that pur­pose, supply'd all defects in that kind, so as sooner or la­ter we all met together at the general Rendezvous, which was still before noon, but earlier or later, as the Conacks or Journeys were longer or shorter.

[Page 120]We had not our Quarters in Villages or Towns, but usually in the Fields, in some Plain, and alwayes near Fountains or Brooks, where before we arriv'd the Tents were still pitcht, and the Cooks very busie in getting Dinner ready, who had el­bow-room enough, for the Campagnia was their Kitch­en.

In the afternoon the Clerk of the Kitchen, with the Quartermaster and part of the Cooks (for some staid behind to get Supper ready) departed before, to have all things in order against the next day, so that as we ad­vanc'd, we still were provi­ded of what the place affor­ded. And indeed for us [Page 121] that travell'd in Waggons, we had the greatest ease, and the best accommodation imaginable such a Journey could administer, for we went into our Beds after Supper, and march'd in that posture till we came to our Quarters the following day, and then only rose and made our selves ready.

After dinner some reposed in their Tents, while others play'd at Tables or Cards, and many in the evenings would walk up and down, and visit the Turks, and par­ticularly our Commissary, who was a civil Person.

On the eight and twenti­eth we came to Colar, from whence we saw Samandria, once the famous Metropolis [Page 122] of Servia, and a Colony of the Romans, but now very ruinous. Some remains are yet there of a little Chappel dedicated to our Lady, and the Catholicks the Inhabi­tants are as celebrated for their poverty and constancy in Religion, as the place was renown'd heretofore for its Riches and Glory. Here we staid the next day, and his Excellency entertained at dinner Hassan-Aga the Com­missary.

The next place was Hassan-Basha-Palanka, a Fortress, or rather a retreat from the in­cursions of Horse, which con­sists of tall Poles only lathed and mudded, the Houses within being nothing but Smoak and Cow-dung with­out.

[Page 123]The first of July (for the last of June was spent in re­pose, and the Commissary gave his Excellency a Din­ner drest after the fashion of the Turks) we came to Bo­dauzin, and the next day to Jogada, a place naturally pleasant and fit for delights, for it abounded with Foun­tains, which in that hot sea­son of the year were of great refreshment to us. Allur'd with this sweetness, we tar­ried here two dayes, and withall because 'twas said to be the half way between Vi­enna and Constantinople. During our stay here, the Commissary invited the Am­bassadour, and the Cavaliers with him, to a House very pleasantly seated, where he [Page 124] gave them a Collation, and while they were at Table, his Excellencies Musick, both Vocal and Instrumental, transported the Turks; but one of them, a Cook of the Commissaries, was handled more roughly for running away, for he was drubb'd most severely, and on his bare feet receiv'd two hun­dred strokes with a Stick, as big and shap'd like that we play at Goff with, in so much that he was black in the Face, and lolling out his Tongue, expir'd in a man­ner, but afterwards reco­ver'd.

From Jogada, on a fine and strong wooden Bridge, we passed the River Mo­rava, which separates [Page 125] Servia from Bulgaria.

The next place was Barai­zin, then Pellacderesi, and af­terwards Aleschinti, where in a little Brook, and on the Grass thereabout, we saw many Tortoises, and caught about a hundred.

At Nissa (which was once an Episcopal, but is now a small Town) we arriv'd on the seventh, and staid the next day. Here the Courier of Vienna overtook us, and brought joyful Letters out of Christendom, which not only refresh'd us with the memory of our Friends and Alliances there, but renew'd too our desires of returning to them.

Coitina, a place three Leagues distant from Nissa, [Page 126] received us next, wherein excellent Baths a little out of the Road, many washed themselves, as the Turks of­ten do, who, most of all the Elements, are lovers of Wa­ter, which serves, as they imagine, as well for the pu­rifying and cleansing of the Soul as the Body, so as they wash often, and have Foun­tains in their Mosches, which as frequently they repair to as they pray.

On the tenth Musan-Ba­sha-Palanka was our Station, where after a new fashion the Bulgarian Women welcomed us, who meeting us, strew'd little bits of Butter and Salt on the way, presaging and wishing thereby, a prosperity to our Journey and Affairs.

[Page 127]On the eleventh we came to Sackerkoi, where we staid the next day. Here by rea­son of the Heats, the change of Diet and Air, above forty were sick, and several strange­ly recovering, some six and twenty dy'd, among whom was the Baron of Kornp­siel.

Here the Governour of the place invited the Ambas­sadour, together with the Cavaliers, and Hassan-Basha the Commissary to dinner. The Dukes of Villack had their residence here, where yet three Christian Churches remain; in one of which, (appertaining heretofore to the Dominicans) over the Tomb of the said Dukes, the Statue of a Man at full [Page 128] length, is yet to be seen, and at the Foot of the Duke, a Wheel with a Crescent, where is written as follows,

On the fifteenth we got to Sophia, the Capital City of Bulgaria, where the Begler­beg, or Vice-roy of Greece most ordinarily resides, by reason whereof 'tis most of all inhabited by Turks. The Town hath no Walls, yet a thousand Horsemen met us on the way, and when we [Page 129] enter'd into the place, the Towns-men stood in Ranks in their Armes, distinguish'd by their Trades in the Streets, as we passed along, but they had no great Guns, for Towns unwalled have none.

During our stay here, while a Courier was dis­patched to Vienna, the Bishop of the place changing his Habit, waited on his Excel­lency, and shew'd us the Church, which was without the Town, which is said to have been built above four­teen hundred years.

After two dayes repose we departed, and quitting the Plain of Sophia, disco­ver'd Mount Rodope, where Antiquity will have it, that [Page 130] Orpheus play'd so sweetly on his Harp. On the top of this Mountain seven Springs issue forth, which those of the Countrey, do call to this day, the seven Fountains of Orpheus, they imagining that the Tears which he shed for Eurydice his Wife gave be­ginning to those Sources. This said Mountain and Mount Haemus, which are joyned together, separate Bulgaria from Romania, cal­led anciently Thrace, and one of the six Provinces, which in the Romans time was compriz'd under the com­mon name of Dacia. The other five are Moldavia, Transylvania, Raslia, Wala­chia and Servia. These Daci, or Davi, for so they are cal­led, [Page 131] gave [...] that Proverb, Da [...]us sum non Aedipus.

The People of Bulgaria have had many Revolutions, and almost beyond the Ex­ample of any other Coun­trey. The Triballi were the first, who worsted King Philip of Macedon, and made him surrender the Mares he had plunder'd out of Scythia, for a breed for his Thessalian Horses. Secondly the Maesi, Thirdly the Daci. Fourthly the Romans. The Goths were the fifth. The Slavonians the sixth. The Bulgarians the seventh. The Grecians the eighth, and the Turks the ninth: Yet still it retain­eth the name of Bulgaria, from the Volgarians, who [Page 132] came from the River Volga, and by the change of V into B are called Bulgarians, whose Metropolis, call'd for­merly Tibiscum, is known now, as I intimated before, by the name of Sophia, from a Church, which Justinian the Emperour did here dedicate to Sancta Sophia.

As for Thrace in general, before the Greeks possessed and planted it, the Nation was as barbarous as any in the World. They lamented the Births of their Children, and sang at their Deaths, yet were alwayes a fighting Peo­ple, and never fully subdu'd till the Romans undertook them.

On the eighteenth we came to Kupra-Basha, the next [Page 133] day to Ictiman, and the twen­tieth to Kisterfent by a very stony way.

Sakurambeg was next, in an open and fertile Coun­trey, whence passing the day following through Dartar­bastek, we arriv'd at Philip­popolis.

This City, call'd formerly Peneropolis, and afterwards Philippopolis by Philip of Ma­cedon that repair'd it, is seat­ed near a Plain of a very great extent, and wash'd by the celebrated River of He­brus, now called Marissa, into which the Taponiza and Ca­ludris do empty themselves. The said Hebrus is famous for the very frequent menti­ons the Poets make of it, particularly for Orpheus, who [Page 134] discontented in that manner, for the loss of Eurydice his Wife, against the whole Sex, introduced the practice of Masculine Venery, for which the Ciconian Matrons tore him in pieces, and threw his Limbs into the River.

Among other things at Philippopolis, they shew'd us a little Church on a hill, which was dedicated to Saint Paul, and 'tis very memorable, that but three Leagues from hence many thousands of People are spread up and down in the Villages and Towns, which are called Paulini.

This place hath an old Tower, and in it a Clock, which seem'd the stranger to us, since in this vast and bar­barous [Page 135] Countrey we saw none before.

Not far from the City, on an eminent Mountain, is a very great Convent of Monks of the Grecian Religion, in whose Church, call'd Saint George, our Mahometan Commissary caus'd the Body of Baron Kornpfeil to be bu­ried, which the Lord Hay, and the Secretary of the Embassy attended to the Grave, but the rest of the dead were in­terr'd near the Banks of the River.

The Wine of Philippopolis is as cheap as 'tis excellent, for 'tis in great abundance thereabouts, and preserved in Vessels of an extraordinary greatness, which as I admir'd, so I wonder'd at the low [Page 136] and little Doors of their Houses, till they told me, that they had them so on pur­pose, to hinder the Turks from bringing in their Hor­ses, and turning their Dwel­lings into Stables. And I likewise observed, when we knock'd at any Door, to taste and buy Wines, the People within were still very shy to admit us, till they first had explor'd what Company we were in, so fearful they are of the Turks, from whom they are subject to many af­fronts, especially when in Wine.

From Philippopolis we went to Papasli, whose Mos­chee and Caravansaria (the Inn in Turky as well for Beasts as Men, for Men and [Page 137] their Horses are under the same Roof) was built by the Progenitour of the pre­sent Grand Visier.

The next day we came to Kiral, and the third to a great Plain, where, because we wanted Water, we went out of the way, till we came to a Fountain. Here malignant Feavers, bloody Fluxes, and other dire Diseases began to reign again, which some of the Retinue had caught and contracted, by visiting infe­ctious Cottages, as also by eating much Fruit, and drinking Wine cooled ex­cessively in Snow, which the Turks had procured, but one only dyed.

Here likewise, while the Priest was at Mass, three [Page 138] Bulgarians brought two Bears and a Cub, which were taught to dance and wrestle at the sound of a Cymball, which while some unadvi­sedly minded more than their Prayers, the Basha, that observ'd it, was displeas'd in that manner, that he com­manded them to be beaten away.

On the seven and twenti­eth we arriv'd at Ormandli, where we saw a Moschee, a Caravansaria, and a handsom Stone-bridge.

The next place was Mu­stapha-Basha-Cupri, where there is a Royal Hau, or Cara­vansaria, which I thought to describe in my return from Constantinople, for in our passage thither we say with­out [Page 139] the Towns, in the open Fields in Tents, or in Wag­gons. But this Structure being Regal, and the best I have seen, I think it now best to acquaint the Reader with it, who may easily fancy a spatious Oval Court, and op­posite to the Gate that leads in, a high and stately Porch, on both sides of which, a Building as vast, as magnifi­cently cover'd with Lead, is presented to the eye. 'Tis supported by four and twen­ty Pillars of Marble, which are of that bigness, they can­not be fathom'd, and resem­bles two huge Barns joyn'd together, as aforesaid. With­in on each hand, besides the main Wall (where the light comes in at several little [Page 140] Slits) is a Wall two Cubits high, and as broad, and about some ten foot distance from each other, several Chim­neys are erected for the ser­vice of Passengers, as well to dress their Meat, as to warm them in the Winter. The said Wall serves for Bed­steads, for Tables, Stools and other Conveniencies, which the common Inns in Christen­dom afford. There are no Partitions, but all things clear and obvious to others▪ when you eat or lye down; and the same Roof is for Camels and Horses, as I said said before, which are ty'd to Rings fastened to Posts.

'Tis easily to be imagined what sleep and repose the weary Traveller may expect, [Page 141] and what smells and what noises he must be subject to.

At the Gate, Hay and Bar­ley (for I saw no Oats in Turky) and Wood too are commonly sold, but the pro­vision for the Horses is ordi­narily the best, for besides ill Bread, and Wine (which is usually good) if the Tra­vellers meet with any Flesh or Fish, they must dress it themselves, if they have no Servants with them.

These are the Inns in Turky, and the place takes the name from Caravana, which is a Company that tra­vel together, for 'tis not safe in Turky to travel a­lone.

[Page 128]This place is likewise fa­mous for an excellent Bridge of white Stones, which re­sembles that of Ratisbone, or Prague, as well for the breadth as the length. Hither Cavalier Simon A Rheningen, who had been the Empe­rours Resident seventeen years in Constantinople, came to wait on the Ambassadour, who receiv'd him with all kindness and respect, by whom, when his Excellency had gladly been inform'd, the Grand Signior was at Adrianople, preparation was made for our departure; but before we went hence, Has­san-Basha, our Commissaries Son (a Youth of good meen, and of a comely Counte­nance) came to wait on his [Page 143] Father, who sent him after dinner to kiss his Excellen­cies Hands, who treated him courteously, and gave him a Watch of good value.

In the morning betimes we marched away, and the same day arriv'd in a Cam­pagnia, within two hours of Adrianople, where the Am­bassadour continued two dayes in his Tents, which were pitch'd near the Banks of the River Hebrus afore­said.

On the first of August, the glorious and anniversary day of the Battel of Saint Go­tard, where the pride of the Ottoman Scepter was depres­sed in some measure, by the slaughter of above twelve thousand Men of the Flower [Page 144] of the Army, the Ambassa­dour, in a very solemn man­ner, past through the Tur­kish Camp (the Army, to the number of thirty thou­sand, lying then near the Ci­ty in Tents) towards Adria­nople in the following or­der.

The Quarter-master, with two of the Turkish Atten­dants, preceded, and vvas followed by the Gentleman of the Horse to the Ambassa­dour, vvith his Excellencies led Horses. The Pages vvere next, and after them eight Trumpetters, with their Trumpets of Silver, but they vvere not to sound them, and the Kettle-drum was as si­lent. Signore Lelio de Luca, the Ambassadours Steward, [Page 145] with the Squadron of his Excellencies Servants, and those of the Cavaliers his Comrades followed next, to whom two hundred Chiau­ses were added, and among them many Sons of the bet­ter sort of Turks. Several Persons of Honour of seve­ral Nations went next, as Baron Fin, Baron Coronini, the Baron de Rech, the Lord Hay, Marquis Chasteauvieux, the Baron of Funffkerken, the Marquis Pecori, Marquis Durazzo, the Duke of Hol­stein incognito, and the Ho­nourable Edward Howard of Norfolk. Then the Banner of the Embassy very richly embroyder'd, was carried by Count Sterhaimb, which (though rouled up, the ar­rogancy [Page 146] of that Monarchy permitting no Potentates Colours to be display'd be­fore the Sultan) yet on one side our Lady trampling on the Head of the Dragon, and on the other the Imperial Eagle were sufficiently dis­cover'd. On Count Ster­haimbs right hand my Lord rode, and the Earl of Herber­stein on his left. The Empe­rours Resident was next with a Train of his Servants, then the Ambassadours Guard, and his Excellency himself, whose venerable Beard joyn'd to his tall Sta­ture, together with his very rich Habit, and Cap, where he wore a rare Feather of Herons beset with noble Diamonds, allur'd the Spe­ctators, [Page 147] and drew their Eyes upon him. On the right hand of his Excellency rode the Chiaus-Basha, the Marshal of the Court, and the Aga of the Spahyes on the left. Signore Panniotti a Grecian, and Interpreter to both the Emperours, came behind with the Secretary of the Embassy, John Frederick Metzger, Doctor of the Civil Law, and Signore Wachina the Ambassadours private Interpreter. On both sides his Excellency, a hundred Janizaries attended, to keep off the People. Two hun­dred Spahys with their Coats of Mail, Quivers and Lances follow'd in the Rear, and behind them the Ambas­sadours Litter, with four [Page 148] Coaches with six Horses a­piece: And lastly, a hundred and ninety Waggons with the Baggage.

In this manner we passed to the City of Adrianople, through the midst of the Ottoman Camp, by the Grand Visiers Tent, and near the Serraglio, while the Grandees of the Court stood admiring and gazing on the pomp of this Embassy, which rather represented the Glory and Triumph of the Emperour of the West, then a Salutati­on and an Address to the Monarch of the East. And afterwards we heard, that the Sultan himself, who, together with his Mother, his Wife, and two Brothers, sate be­hind a thin Curtain, and with [Page 149] joy and admiration was a Spectator like others, and observ'd all things curiously, said, That in all kinds he had never seen the like.

It was noon e're we came to our Quarters, which were in the Suburbs on the other side of the Town, and how gladly we got thither, the Reader may imagine, since the Heats were so excessive, we could hardly endure them.

The next day the Grand Visier sent his Excellency a Present, of several sorts of Fruits, to the number of thirty Baskets; to the bring­ers of which, the Ambassa­dour commanded thirty Crowns to be given. Some other few dayes were [Page 150] spent in receiving and giving reciprocal Complements.

The City of Adrianople (call'd anciently Oreste) is partly seated on the top, and partly on the descent of a Hill, on that side, where the Rivers Tunza and Harda loose their names in the Ma­rissa. 'Tis the best, and most considerable Town between Strigonium and Constantino­ple, the Buildings whereof are as good as any other in Turky, and the Air more sweet and temperate than any in Romania.

On the sixth his Excellen­cy was conducted by the Chiaus-Basha to the Grand Visiers Tent, where after the Ceremonies perform'd on each side, the Ambassadour [Page 151] delivered him the Empe­rours Letters, which had this Address: Strenuo & magni­fico viro, Achmet Bassa Sere­nissimi Turcarum Imperatoris supremo Vezirio sincere nobis dilecto. His Excellency like­wise presented him from the Emperour, with Gifts of a very great value, and the Grand Visier gave him a Caftan lin'd with Sables, to the worth of a thousand Dollars, as also the Horse and Furniture he had lent him, when his Excellency made his entrance into Adrianople. A hundred Caftans were likewise then distributed among the Ambassadours Comrades, and others of the Retinue.

[Page 152]Here we had the news, that part of the Serraglio at Con­stantinople was burnt, and above two hundred Houses consum'd, in so much that a little before the Queen-Mother and the Sultana re­turn'd in haste thither. And now since the season of the year put the Sultan in mind of visiting his Maritine Ca­stles (a thing he had design­ed before) the Ambassa­dours Audience was hasten­ed.

On the eleventh a hundred Chiauses and two hundred Janizaries, very early in the morning, came to wait on the Ambassadour, and con­duct him to the Serraglio, and the Grand Visier, as formerly, sent Horses accordingly, so [Page 153] as we marched thither in a very solemn manner. In the inward Court his Excellency alighting, was usher'd into the Divan (the place where the Visiers meet three times a week to do justice) here six of them (the Arbiters and disposers of all things in Asia and Europe) expected his arrival, and the Grand Vi­sier met him, and courteously receiving him, made him sit in a rich Chair. Then that the pomp and ostentation of the Ottoman Greatness might more visibly appear, he cau­sed the sum of three hun­dred and seventy five thou­sand Dollars, to be distribu­ted before us, among the Souldiers and Officers of the Court, (the Pay for three [Page 154] months) which they usually receive on the dayes the Grand Signior gives Audi­ence to Ambassadours.

The Janizaries stood un­arm'd in a row, with their Armes across and their Faces downward, but towards the Divan, and over against them fifteen little Field-pieces of Brass. On the other side were the Spahys; and as the several Captains were call'd by a List, some of that Troop or Company followed them, to receive their Pay in red Leather-purses (each Purse containing five hundred Dollars) which they threw on their Shoulders, and car­ried away in that man­ner.

[Page 155]This lasted near two hours, and then Dinner fol­lowed.

At the first Table was the Ambassadour, with the Resi­dent, the Grand Visier, and another of great Quality. The Cavaliers were disposed here and there at other Ta­bles, with the other Visiers. The rest of the Retinue sate like Taylers on the Ground, where Skins of red Leather were spread in the nature of Carpets, where the Meat was set thick. The greatest pomp of the Dishes, besides Flesh and Fish, were things made of Sugar, of Musk and Amber­greece, and the Drink was only Water and Sherbett, but the Attendants finely clad, and very numerous.

[Page 156]While we were at dinner, the Presents from the Empe­rour (which were in great abundance, and inestimable in a manner) were carried by the Turks through the Court, that the People might see them, and all Curiosities be satisfied, as well with the number as the variety of the Gifts.

Dinner being ended, and forty Caftans distributed, (without which no access to the Sultan, who gave fewer than the Grand▪ Visier his Minister) the Capigi-Basha inform'd the Visiers, the Grand Signior was ready for the Audience, who immedi­ately waited on him, and af­ter their low reverences stood about him in their pla­ces▪ [Page 157] Then the Ambassadour was led and usher'd in, and the Cavaliers soon after in­troduced in order, between two of the Turks of good Quality; and no sooner were admitted, and had made their Obeissances, but dismissed as soon.

The Persons that had ad­mittance, were the Residents, the Cavaliers A Renninghen, and Casanova, my Lord, Count Herberstein, the Mar­quisses Durazzo, and Pecori, the Honourable Edward Howard of Norfolk, Count Sterhaimb, the Barons of Bin­nendorff, Funffkercken, Hay, Coro [...]ini, Fin, Vernavel, and Ree [...], together with the S [...] ­cre [...] and Interpreter of the Embassy.

[Page 158]All being retired and gone, but the Ambassadour, the Resident, and the Interpre­ter, this last presented the Emperours Letters to the Ambassadour, and he to the Sultan, who resplendent and glittering with his Gold and his Gems (which no where are fixed, but carried by Ca­mels wheresoever he goes) look'd rather like one from a Bed than a Throne. After the Complements on the part of the Emperour, the publick and private Causes of the Embassy were briefly recited. The Sultan reply'd, he was glad to hear of the Emperours Health, and bad the Ambassadour welcome. As to what might conduce to the happiness of both Em­pires, [Page 159] he said very little, but bad the Ambassadour go to Constantinople, whence he would not long be absent, his Maritime Expedition be­ing over, after which the Ambassadour (who alone kist the Hem of his Gar­ment) repeating his Obeis­sances, returned to his Quar­ters.

On the thirteenth his Ex­cellency sent the Gentleman of his Horse, to present the Grand Signior with a Noble and Rich Coach, together with seven Neopolitan Hor­ses, and four Irish Grey­hounds.

On the sixteenth the Grand Visier entertained the Ambassadour, and the Cava­liers with him, at a Dinner, in [Page 160] a Palace without the City, belonging to the Mufti, who is as a Pope, or High-Priest to the Turks▪ and was also there.

When they had din'd, a hundred Turks well mount­ed and clad, for the diver­tisement of his Excellency, shew'd rare Feats of Horse­manship, darting Staves at one another, with such vi­gour and agility, that 'twas a kind of wonder, how they possibly could decline them, though two or three were dangerously hurt, if not kill'd.

On the three and twenti­eth the Grand Signior came out of the Serraglio with great pomp and state, and passed through the City to [Page 161] his Tent in the Camp, in or­der to his motion towards Gallipolis, but staid there some dayes, by reason of the Heats, not returning into the Serraglio, unless by disguize, or in the night, as the fashion is there, when he publickly comes forth, in order to any Progress or Journey.

During our stay at Adria­nople, which was near a month, I had the opportunity of conversing with an Itali­an Renegado, who acted there the part of a Physitian. By his and others help on the place, I had the information of some things, which usually to Strangers are not so clear and obvious▪

And having now some lei­sure, I shall prosecute the [Page 162] Relation I left off at Bel­grade.

And first of the Rigour of the Turks.

The Mahometans are se­vere in their Punishments, and for the least Fault beat commonly the Offenders on the Soles of their Feet, some­times on the Belly, and But­tocks, and other parts of the Body, which is used most to Janizaries, from which the best and greatest amongst them are hardly exempt, but when they pay the forfeiture with their Heads.

For at Mahomet Agas Tent, who was our Condu­ctor, at a small Town be­tween Buda and Belgrade, be­cause the Captain of the Ca­stle, who commanded in [Page 163] chief in that and many other petty Places adjacent, came not early enough to pay him his Respects, as soon as he ar­riv'd, he was by our Condu­ctor aforesaid, as he sate cross-legg'd, after a little rubbing in Turkish, kickt down with a Foot on his Breast, and so lying on his Back, his Leggs (as the cu­stom is there, which I wrote of before) were straight­wayes held up, till our Aga, in six or seven Blows, broak the biggest end of a great and strong Stick on his Feet, which was done in a trice, e're my Lord (who was in the Tent with the cholerick Aga) could rise up, and catch him by the Arm, to hinder him from striking any [Page 164] more; for his Lordship was struck with compassion, to behold a reverend old Man of seventy years of age, with a long and milk white Beard to his Girdle, so treated and us'd; and had not my Lord tugged hard, and been of some credit with the Aga, he swore he would have given him at least threescore Blows, and bad the poor old Governour thank only my Lord for his Clemency. Yet as soon as e're 'twas over, he sate down again with the rest in the Tent, and had Coffee given to him, which by rea­son of his smarting, he seem­ing not so readily to drink, and muttering only, that in almost sixty years, that he had serv'd the Grand Signior, [Page 165] he had not been beaten be­fore; had not my Lord, with others there present, intreat­ed for him, he had been put in Chains, and sent away that evening to the Visier of Bu­da, who, as they affirm'd, would have caused his Head to be quickly strucken off, without hearing him speak, or examining the mat­ter.

The like or worse treat­ment was intended to the Cadis of the Place, for ha­ving, like the Captain afore­said, deferred his duty; but he hearing, it seems, of the others rude fate, fled away, and lay concealed all night in the Vineyards, not return­ing to his Station till after our departure. This Cadis [Page 166] is a Judge in all respective places, as well of civil Per­sons as Affairs, and hath as great a Power in all legal matters, as the Governour in military, they two being the Sharers and Arbiters of all things within their Juris­diction and Verge, and only accountable to the next Vi­sier or Basha, whose Govern­ment it lyes under; and yet notwithstanding our Com­missary aforesaid, so deputed by the Visier of Buda, bore all along the journey such ab­solute authority, as I said, over all such Persons in eve­ry place we passed.

Another Example occurs to my Memory, while we actually resided at Adriano­ple.

[Page 167]'Tis the fashion in the Ot­toman Serraglio, when the Sultan goes publickly a­broad, to give a gracious Nod to the Officers of his Court, for which the Chiaus-Basha, in the name of the rest, gives thanks to his Majesty, and cryes out alowd, Long live our Emperour, the King, &c. The said Chiaus-Basha, when the Sultan went into the Camp near the City of Adrianople, forgetting his duty, or employ'd about some business, neglected or omitted the usual Ceremo­nies, his Princes gracious Nod oblig'd him to. The Emperour dissembled it then, but arriving at the Camp, inform'd the Grand Visier of the fault, who hast­ning [Page 168] to his Tent, caus'd the Instruments to be brought, where the Feet of Offenders are put in and beaten. While all the great Officers, which standing round about, beheld one another (for none was yet design'd for the punish­ment) were guessing at the Nocent: The Chiaus-Basha was commanded to lie down, and had a hundred Blows on the Soles of his Feet, which no sooner were over, and he recovering his Legs, but he fell down at the Grand Visi­ers Feet, endeavouring to kiss his Vest, and be restor'd to his Favour. But the Grand Visier raging, turn'd his Back upon him, and calling him Villain, bad him ever for the future to be carefuller of his [Page 169] duty, for otherwise he would order him to be strangled. The Wretch indur'd this u­sage with patience, and the next day they were both again at Court, each one in his Office, as if nothing the day before had at all inter­ven'd.

For the Government of their Provinces, 'tis alwayes triennial, and ordinarily the Grand Signior sends Persons from the Court, who have seen no other light than that of the Serraglio, and yet when the Emperour bestows a charge on any, they say, at the same time, God gives him understanding and con­duct to exercise and manage the same.

[Page 170]The Grandees, when out of the Field, lead luxurious and lazy lives, passing most their time in eating and de­bauchery, the worst of which Sodomy is so frequent among them, as when 'tis not forced, 'tis hardly look'd upon as a Vice.

For their Military Disci­pline in general, it is a meer confusion, and supply'd alone by force. And as for their Forts, they are naked and pi­tiful Works, for they repair nothing, except peradven­ture some frontier Town or Castle, and those but poorly neither, for unless by the help of Renegadoes (of which, though they have of all Na­tions, yet [...] of any note, or consi [...]) they [Page 171] know not how well to go a­bout to do it.

The like want of care is observed in their Houses, and Gardens, and all sorts of Buildings (except the pub­lick Works) which we may the less wonder to see go to ruine, in regard, as I told you before, almost all look no farther, then for their own Lives, which depend upon the Malice or Caprise of the respective Governours; nay, should they make the least ostentation and pomp of be­ing rich (as I intimated be­fore) straight that is Crime enough to cut off their Heads, and confiscate their Estates, as it often arrives to some wealthy Basha or Visier, whose Head is cut off by a [Page 172] couple of Chiauses, or Mes­sengers, in his own House or Tent, though he have a hun­dred Servants about him, nay, perhaps many thousands of Souldiers in his view, and under his command.

Many of their Villages are built like Souldiers Huts, few or none of the Houses being cover'd with Tile, and the Cow-houses commonly in England much sweeter and cleanlier. The Village Walls resemble those in Hungary, but are something worse, being only long Stakes thrust into the Ground, and crossed through like Basket-work, and so dawbed all over on both sides with Mud and Dirt.

[Page 173]But their publick Build­ings, as Garavansarias or Hanes, as also their Baths, Bridges, Causies and Foun­tains, which almost all the way, in every dayes jour­ney we met with, are very stately things, their Religion directs them to make, and the more easily great Persons perswade themselves to, in regard they know not some­times which way to dispose of their Riches when they dye, having little assurance, that other dispositions will stand good and take place.

Wherefore to eternize their Memories here, they make often vast expences of this kind, and endow them with perpetual Revenues, for the publick good of Pas­sengers. [Page 174] Nay, some out of particular Devotion and Charity, give Meat to Dogs and Birds, causing holes to be made on their Grave-stones and Monuments, as Recepta­cles of Water for the Fowls of the Air, some of which, as particularly Turtles, are so tame and so foolish (being seldom shot at, or molested by the Turks) as I have seen in the Journey, when some of the Company had shot and kill'd several from a Tree, the others would sit still unconcern'd, and the same Bird, if missed at first, would commonly sit still to be afterwards kill'd.

This priviledge and liber­ty of shooting on the way was not indulged to us, be­cause [Page 175] we were Strangers, and of another Faith, but as be­ing of the Ambassadours Train, whose Errand and Bu­siness, in that it related to Peace and Commerce, which then was very grateful to the Turks, gave us all sort of harmless conversation and freedom, and generally made them civil and obliging to us, since never any Embassy was so pompous and glorious, nor any Ambassadour so wel­come, as the insuing Relation will instance to the Rea­der.

The Hungarians averse to the Peace with the Turks, in regard his Imperial Majesty (of whom they had desired, that one of their own Nati­on might be joyn'd with [Page 176] Count Lesley in the Embassy into Turky) had denyed their request, the Hussars of Filleck, with several of the neighbouring Inhabitants, uniting themselves to the number of six hundred, made an Incursion thirty Leagues into the Country, and plun­dering all the Villages about Waia, the very day before the Ambassadour arrived there, return'd with a considerable Booty.

This insolency of the Hun­garians, in a time of Peace and amity, and so near the Ambassadour (whom they had a design to involve in some Labyrinth of trouble and affront) was as highly re­sented by his Excellency as the Turks, who (considering [Page 177] the enormity of the Fact) as they made very just, and very grievous Complaints to the Ambassadour, so they might by requiring satisfa­ction, in all probability, have lessen'd their Civilities to his Person; yet they ceas'd not to treat him with all respect and honour, and the Gover­nour of the Place sent his Excellency a Present of se­veral sorts of Provision. But many of the Commonal­ty were as clownish and ig­norant, as the better sort were courteous; for when on the Road we askt by an Interpreter, how far, or how many hours journey it was to such a place, they knew not what an Hour or Mile meant. 'Tis true, that near [Page 178] the Confines of Hungary they have some great Clocks, else generally they measure the day by their several times of praying and eating, which is sooner or later, as the Dayes and Nights lengthen or decrease.

At dinner time often, as we travell'd along, they would come and stand round about the Table, and won­der at our Hats (which ma­ny carried with them) our Fans, Gloves, &c. and some among them bolder than the rest, with civil meen enough, would take them up into their hands, when laid aside by us, to feel and put them on. The ordinary sort also, when we plaid at Cards or Tables, would gaze, and [Page 179] stand so near about the Ta­ble, that often we were for­ced to becken to the Janiza­ries, to make them stand off, who, on the least sign of dis­pleasure, would baste them like Dogs, as they served an Arabian, who being a Bravo amongst them, and marching with a Spear, thrust through his naked Body on purpose, with several Arrows pierced through the flesh of both Armes, for not making haste enough out of the way, as we passed along, was cruelly cudgell'd and bang'd by a Janizary, sometimes on the Back, and sometimes on his Sides, and even the Arrows or Spear as it lighted, with­out the least regard to the posture he was in, which to [Page 180] us, unacquainted with Spe­ctacles of that nature, was pitiful and compassionate, as others were bizarre and extravagant, particularly those of the Horsemen, some having huge Wings on their Backs, and others odd▪ and various kinds of Feathers on their Heads, with phantasti­cal Caps, and other strange marks, to shew how ma­ny Christians they had kil­led.

The Foot too, to demon­strate their Actions in the Wars, are distinguish'd from the rest, by their several sorts of Dresses and Caps, of ma­ny shapes and colours, which they animate one another to deserve, by perswading themselves, that he, who dyes [Page 181] fighting in the Field against the Christians, gains Paradise presently, a place (as they describe it) most sutable to their sensual delights.

We met with very few that are literate, and those which are so, reap little sa­tisfaction by their reading, since they have no printed Books.

But I cannot omit the cleanliness of the Turks, who, as they had occasion to▪ urine, still kneel'd with one Knee at the least on the Ground, and afterwards wash'd their Hands, as they do still before and after their eating, which with them is as often as their Prayers, four or five times a day, for though at several hours they do eat, [Page 182] yet the chief time with them is about ten of the Clock in the Morning, when they they usually feast best; as when our Conductor en­tertained and treated the Ambassadour, which was in this manner.

First, He rose up when his Excellency came into the Tent, and bidding him wel­come, and the Cavaliers with him, sate down again with them, who had each a Cushi­on on the Ground, the Am­bassadour alone having two, to raise him a little higher, for his Legs were not so ply­able in sitting Tayler-wise like the rest, yet he would not use a Chair, though they offered him one, he being then incognito, and that [Page 183] no time of ceremony.

When they were thus set a little, two Pages of the Commissary (tall Fellows, and forty years old) came to each of the Guests, and covering their Heads and Fa­ces with a fine striped Taf­faty, which they held over them, continued it so, till ano­ther with a Silver Incense had perfum'd and smoak'd their Faces and Heads.

That done, and the In­cense remov'd, another Silk Cloath was laid cross the Lap and the Knees of the Guests, whom another great Page brought Rose-water to, with which they wash'd their Faces and Beards.

When that was taken a­way, a Linnen-cloath was [Page 184] laid, as the other, on their Knees, and Coffee given to them.

After this they brought Sherbett, which is pleasant enough, when perfum'd with Amber-greece, and made of several Juyces of Fruits, according to the Season, which is mixed and dissolved in Water, and then brought to drink.

And lastly, Tobacco (un­less in or near the Court, where it is prohibited) is offer'd those that like it, when commonly the Di­scourse doth begin.

When Dinner time ap­proached, they all first wash­ed as they sate, then they spread in the middle, about the upper end of the Tent, a [Page 185] round Leather-table-cloath on the Ground, the Floor being almost all over (espe­cially at the head of the Tent, and round the sides of it) ever cover'd with Carpets.

To this Table they re­mov'd, and sate round as ma­ny as could, which is seldom above ten, on the middle of which is set first a Foot, and then a round Table, which is commonly of Pewter or Tin (for the Grand Signior only uses Gold, though forbidden by their Law) and rais'd about two handfuls high, in shape (though much bigger) like our Assiets or Stands. In the middle of this Table is set (and never but one at once) a great round Bason of the same Metal, fill'd full [Page 186] of Meat, the first being ever of tender roasted Mutton, or the like, cut all in joynts and bits, which often on great Dayes, and Feasts, is smoaked with Perfumes e're it comes to the Table.

The boyl'd Meats are also so tender, as with ease they may be pulled in pieces, since Knives are never used at Meals.

Many Soops of Milks and Spoon-meats are served in afterwards, which with long Wooden-spoons, or Oval­ladles rather, they reach.

Brown Bread is cut before­hand, and in long Slices thrown on the Table, both to eat and serve for Trenchers, on which they gave and put away their Bones, as they [Page 187] pleased, or flung them on the Table, as the Turks us'd to do, and fresh Bread was as frequently given as demand­ed, though the Turks eat commonly their Trench­ers.

Sherbetts are also given as oft as called for, and not as some write, only once at the end of the Dinner, which being now over, 'tis fit I should rise and be gone.

On the seven and twenti­eth of August, very early in the morning, we departed from Adrianople, and passing the River Hebrus, over a great and long Bridge, march'd by the Turkish Camp, the Trumpets all sounding, and the Kettle­drum [Page 188] beating by his Excel­lencies command.

About noon we arrived a Hapsa, and the next day a Baba, a pretty little Town.

The next place was Bor­gas, and afterwards Cariste­ran, near which in a Campag­nia, by a fine little Stream, we took up our Quarters.

On the last of the Month we came to Chiurlu, and the first of September to Simenly, a very poor Village.

The next day betimes we got to Selivrea, call'd former­ly Selymbria, or the City of Selys, for Eria in the old Thra­cian Language doth signifie a City, other Cities of Thrace having the like termination, as Olymbria and Mesembria.

[Page 189]The Town is very plea­sant, being seated on a Hill, [...]nd by the Sea-side, where usually (when the Wind is propitious) Boats are hired [...]or Constantinople.

From hence we remov'd to Ponte grande, where we pas­sed four stone-bridges, with­ [...]n a little distance of each other, which crossed an arm of the Sea.

Ponte Picciolo received us [...]ext, where we met with fresh occasions of joy, for [...]ere the long-look'd for Ro­dolphus, the Courier from Vienna overtook us, and brought welcome Letters out of Christendom.

Our last Station but one was within two hours jour­ney of Constantinople, where we [Page 190] staid two dayes in Tents, while all things were pre­par'd for our advance to that City; in order to which, the same day we removed, my Lord of Winchelsea, his Ma­jesties then Ambassadour sent his Secretary and Train, together with the English Merchants, to complement and accompany his Excel­lency, whose entrance into Constantinople was pompous and solemn, and with all the usual Ceremonies of great­ness.

My Lord, (though he had a fair Quarter assign'd him near his Excellency) yet in­vited before to my Lord of Winchelseas House, directly went thither, with his Bro­ther and Retinue, and was [Page 191] very nobly receiv'd and en­tertain'd. I, who for a while had been sick (even to death) in the Journey, soon found my recovery there, by my noble Lord of Winchelseas favour, and my Ladies great­est charity and goodness, whose incomparable Ver­tues surpassing all expressi­on, I can only with gratitude commemorate, and with si­lence admire.

Byzantium, the ancient name of the City, was repu­ted little bigger than the Serraglio is now. The prin­cipal Trade for fishing, espe­cially for Tunny, which in very great quantities the Bosphorus yielded yearly, and o're against the point of the Serraglio (which was call'd [Page 192] the Golden Horn from the gains of the Fishermen) vast numbers were taken, being driven and frighted thither from the Chalcedonian shore, by a white Stone appearing in the bottom of the shal­low and transparent Water. Constantine the Great, and first Christian Emperour, en­larging and beautifying it with very fair Buildings, and walling it round, establish'd there his Seat, and nam'd it New Rome, but after his death, his Successor, in ho­nour of his memory and name, caus'd it to be called Constantinople.

It hath since been the Seat of the Emperours of the East, but not without great changes of Fortune, for in­stead [Page 193] of Christian Emperours, 'tis under the Power and Domination of a Mahometan Prince, Mahomet the Second having taken it by assault, and sacrific'd it to the fury of his Souldiers. This great disaster to Christendom arriv'd in the year of our Lord, one thousand four hundred fifty three, on the nine and twen­tieth of May, and the second day of Whitsuntide, the Feast of the Holy Ghost, against whom the Greeks so often had sinn'd, God punishing them that day with the loss of their capital City, to shew them the enormity of their sin.

This City, by its apt and advantagious scituation, may seem to be built to command [Page 194] all the World, for 'tis in the extremity of Europe, and se­parated only from Asia by an Arm of the Sea, some half a League broad. The Haven is so deep, and so safe, that Ships of the greatest burthen may ride near the Shore with the greatest secu­rity.

The City is in general ill built, and the Streets very narrow, so as in many places neither Chariots nor Wag­gons can pass. There is only one fair Street, and that is but indifferently large, which traverses the Town to the Adrianople-gate. But the Moschees built by several Emperours are very noble Structures, and all in imitati­on of Sancta Sophia, which is [Page 195] the only Church preserved from ruine at the taking of Constantinople, and which for the beauty of the Edifice, the Turks were contented to profane, by converting it into a Mosque.

This Church was built by Justinian the Emperour, who for the building of it im­ploy'd the Revenue of Egypt, which continu'd seventeen years, and when he had fi­nish'd it, and saw the beauty of it, he bragg'd he had sur­passed King Solomon in the structure of his Temple.

Near it he erected a very fair Monastery, where the Serraglio is now, and endow­ed it with a Revenue of eight hundred thousand Crowns, maintaining nine [Page 196] hundred Priests there for the service of the Tem­ple.

Near Sancta Sophia, the Serraglio (divided from the City by a Wall, and wash'd on two sides by the Sea) contains three miles in cir­cuit, which, the goodly Groves of Cypresses consi­dered, the Gardens and Fountains, with the Plains, and other Objects of de­light, is a place of variety of pleasure.

I speak very sparingly of the Serraglio, because several others have said enough of it, and more than is usu­ally discover'd to Stran­gers.

In the great Piazza (which the Greeks call'd the Hippo­drome, [Page 197] and the Emperours design'd for the Races of Horses) we saw two an­tick Pyramids, three bra­zen Serpents so wreathed and twined together, that nothing is free but the Head.

Near the end of the Town, towards the North, the ruines of the ancient Pa­lace of Constantine remain, where so many Christian Emperours had formerly their residence, and near the said ruines, is the Church and Habitation of the Patriarch of Constantinople.

There are several great places in the City, which are called Besestines, which re­semble our Exchanges, where all sorts of things may be [Page 198] bought, and there is too a Market of Slaves, where they sell Men and Women, in the last of which the Jews traf­fick much, and gain extream­ly by, for they buy them young and handsome, and teaching them to work with the Needle, to dance, sing and play on several Instruments, put them off with great ad­vantage, which they do too out of policy, as well as for lucre, for the Women thus preferr'd to the Court, out of gratitude to the Jews, do them many good offices.

In the middle of the City is the old Serraglio, which Mahomet the Second built, as well for his own, as his Successours residence, but they liking the new better, [Page 199] as being more healthful and pleasanter, abandon'd it to the service of the Grand Signiors Women when he dyes, where they languish out the residue of their dayes.

The Armenians have a great space inclos'd in the City, where the Patriarch inhabits, whose Church is poor and little, and there are yet the remains of a Hall, where a Councel was held.

There are two great In­closures, where the Janiza­ries are lodg'd, when the Army is out of the Field, where they live in great or­der and discipline.

[Page 200]In an Angle of the City is the Castle of the seven Towers, where the Sultan keeps the Prisoners of note he puts not to death, and here Sultan Osman was stran­gled by his Subjects.

The Burrough of Galata, which is separated by the Haven, hath much better Houses than the City, for it belonging to the Genoueses was surrendred on compo­sition, and so kept from ruine, and this is the reason the Churches of the Catho­licks were preserv'd and in­tire. Here and at Pera the Christians for the most part inhabit, where they have the free exercise of their Chur­ches and Religion.

[Page 201]O're against the Serraglio, on the Asian Shore, is the Burrough of Scutary, where the Caravanes meet together, which go into Persia, to Alep­po, and Damascus, and other Eastern parts. On the side of the said Scutary, are the Fragments and remains of the ancient City Chalcedon, so celebrated for the general Councel in the time of the Emperour Martianus.

The Shore of the Thraci­an Bosphorus▪ (which dis­charges its Waters into the Mediterranean) is full of pleasant Villages and Houses of delight, and at the mouth of it (some eighteen miles distant from Constantinople) on a Rock which advances into the Sea, in the form of [Page 202] near an Island, is a Pillar of white Marble, which is cal­led Pompey's Pillar, erected, as reported, when he defeat­ed Mithridates.

About two or three Leagues from the Town, where the Channel is most narrow, two Castles well pro­vided of Artillery are built, to hinder the passage of Vessels they are willing to stop.

Round about the Town there are nothing but Grave­stones and Monuments of the dead, which no sooner we had past, but the Countrey was as fertile as pleasant, the Valleys and Hills being va­riously beautified with Ob­jects of pleasure.

[Page 203]Three Leagues from the City there is a vast conflu­ence of Waters, conserv'd in a Cistern of a very great cir­cuit and magnitude, not far from which place, to joyn and bring two Mountains to­gether, three Arches are erected, the one above the other, from whence the Wa­ter runs in that plenty to the City, that besides the publick Fountains, and those in the Houses of Bashas, eight hun­dred are supply'd in the Mos­chees.

As for the Provisions of Constantinople, there is no want of any thing, Wheat, Wine and Flesh of all sorts, being there in great abun­dance and cheapness, and as for the Fish, there are al­wayes [Page 204] great quantities of the same, and those very good, as Turbuts, Soles, Mullets and the like, as during our stay there, which was above three months, we found by experi­ence.

But to return to the Am­bassadour, the Camacan of Constantinople sent two Gal­leys to his Excellency (each Galley, having four hundred and eighty six Oars, and five Men at an Oar, all Christians, but most of them Russians and Polanders) to carry him with his Comrades▪ and Re­tinue, to a pleasant Garden­house on the Bosphorus, where he feasted us nobly, and for the Ambassadours divertisement, caused dan­cings▪ and tricks to be shew'd [Page 205] after dinner, but on our way thither, the Galley his Excel­lency was in, ran foul on another, and was in some danger.

On the third of October the Sultan return'd from his Maritime Expedition, and the Grand Visier feasted the Ambassadour at his Gar­den.

On the tenth of Novem­ber his Excellency had his second and last Audience of the Sultan (no Ambassadour having oftner than twice, to wit, at his coming and going away) in order to which, the Grand Visier sent him Horses and Furniture for himself and his Retinue. He enter'd into the Serraglio at the prin­cipal Gate near Sancta Sophia, [Page 206] which was guarded by five and twenty Capigis, or Por­ters, where we saw a spacious Court, and a Fabrick on the left hand, which anciently was the Sacristy to Sancta Sophia, but the Turks keep the Armes there at present which they took from the Christians, as well as the ta­king of Constantinople, as in other Rencounters. On the right hand is a Structure, which serves for an Infirma­ry for the sick of the Ser­raglio. This Court we rode into, but alighted at the se­cond, which was guarded as the former, and his Excellen­cy was received with the same state and ceremony, as before at Adrianople.

[Page 207]On the eighteenth the Ambassadour and Resident din'd with the Grand Visier, who gave them Caftanns, which were lined with Sa­bles.

On the third of December the Grand Signior hunted, a sport he loves much, and is in this manner. Several thou­sands of Peasants beat and drive a whole Wood, while the Sultan and his Followers stand in an open place with the Dogs, which run at any Game, sparing nothing that comes forth, though unfit to be kill'd.

When the Sultan had done, the Grand Visier pre­sented him with five Purses of Dollars, as also with two Vests, the two Vests he disli­ked, [Page 208] and four of the Purses he gave to his Pages, and the other among the Peasants, who frequently, when the Grand Signior hunts, through extremity of Cold, are frozen to death in the Woods.

On the seventh the Am­bassadour had audience of the Grand Visier, and on the tenth of the Testardar, or Treasurer general, both of which gave Caftanns.

But the day of our depar­ture being come (which was on the one and twenti­eth instant) the Ambassa­dour full of glory (though many of his Train had been swept away by death) went away with a greater Retinue, by the addition of the Cap­tives, which he carried with [Page 209] him. O how the poor Chri­stians, which he left sad be­hind, regretted the loss and the absence of that Guest, from whom they had re­ceived such abundance of comfort, and now were ap­prehensive, they should never see again.

We went not away in the order and manner we came, for the Ambassadour being gone, all that were in Wag­gons, afraid to be hindmost, made all the haste they could, and some made more haste than good speed, for between Constantinople and Ponte Picciolo (the place of our abode for that night) many Waggons were unser­viceable by their jostling one another, till refitted and [Page 210] amended, and here lay a Wheel, and there a broken Axeltree.

The next morning we de­parted, and continuing our journey towards Belgrade, returned the same way by which we came thence, no­thing intervening of mo­ment, only at Sackarcoi, an Arabian with his Torch in his hand (who led us in the dark) and some others with their Bufali, were frozen to death, while they slept on the ground. Doctor Metz­ger likewise, the Secretary of the Embassy, as also of the Councel of War to the Em­perour, who fell mad at Con­stantinople, expired at Nissa, and was buried near the Town in the Sepulchre of the Raguseans.

[Page 211]At Belgrade (where we staid till the thirteenth of February, the day of our departure) I wanting some Gloves, desired a Jew to help me to a pair, which he readily undertook, and brought se­veral to me, but all for one hand, for the Turks were but one.

Two dayes being spent in ferrying the Horses, the Coaches and Waggons over the River of Sava, (where the Turks with their Whips forced all idle gazers to lend a helping hand) on the fourteenth we came to Co­lombitza, a Village under ground, the Houses of which we were glad to creep into on our Knees.

[Page 212] Nitrovitz was next, where we staid the following day, and then came to Valkovar and Esseck, the latter of which is a walled Town, where we saw a great Gun, which was nineteen foot long, and several Heads of Christians, which were set up on Poles. The Streets were plank'd with Timber, and we past a Wooden-bridge three or four miles in length, which was over the Drava, and the many Moorish places we met with.

Without the Town was a Gaunch, or double Gallows, full of Hooks, on which Ma­lefactors were thrown head­long down, and as they were caught, had either a quicker, or a lingering death.

[Page 213]The next place was Berno­var, then Mohachz, and after­wards Battaseck.

Secksar, a place finely seat­ed (where we saw the re­mains of an old Christian Church, and the ruines of a large Building) was our Station for two dayes, and Pax received us next. Foot­var, Tschankurtaran and Er­chin, all Towns on the Da­nube, we passed through af­terwards, and arrived at Bu­da, some two miles from whence we were met by the Spahyes, and march'd through the Janizaries, which on both sides the way stood expecting us in their Armes, while many great Guns were discharged from the Castle and City. Here [Page 214] we staid thirteen dayes, and sixty Slaves, Hungarians and Germans, were released; the Visier shewing the Ambassa­dour all imaginable civility, and causing the like Skirmish on horseback, to be done and perfomed at Buda, as was be­fore at Adrianople for his Excellencies divertisement. While we staid in this Town, the Turks had their Rama­san or Lent, which continues a whole Moon, and changes every year, during which time, they neither eat nor drink till the Stars do appear, and then they eat and drink what they will, and all the night too if they please, at what time burning Lamps are set round all the Steeples of the Moschees, which make [Page 215] a fine shew. The Ramasan being over, they feast three dayes together and rejoyce, that being their Biram or Easter.

On the fourteenth of March we departed from Buda, two hundred Horse conducting, and the Turkish Trumpets sounding as we march'd, for at least a League together.

That day we came to Ve­ruwar, and the next to Stri­gonium or Gran, the Begue of which place in his Coat of Male, met us out of the Town with five hundred Horse, and two Companies of Foot.

The Castle is on a Hill, and the prospect from thence to­wards the Danube most plea­sing [Page 216] and alluring, the eye be­ing boundless and wearied, as it were, with Objects of delight; but the Town looks like a Carcass, no care being taken for repairing of the Walls.

The Seat of an Arch­bishop is turn'd into a Cot­tage, and of sacred become profane. The Chappel of Saint Adalbert is employ'd in Mahometan uses, yet still on the Wall the Annunciation of our Lady remains, and escaped the fury of the Soul­diers, which destroy'd all things else.

In the Suburbs there's a Pond which continually smoaks, where Frogs croak all the Winter, which is cau­sed by the much sulphureous [Page 217] matter in the bottom. And not far from the City a sad Spectacle was seen, to wit, many Heads of poor Christi­ans pil'd up on a heap, which exceeded a thousand. They were taken at Barchan, and kill'd in cold blood by the Visiers command, who to sa­tiate his unquenchable thirst of humane slaughter, had them pickt out one by one, and kill'd before his face, as he lay in his Tent.

After three dayes stay at Gran, we advanced to Nemeth, and the next day arrived at Hatch, the place of exchange, and our much desired Ha­ven. But we met even here with some difficulties and stops▪ The Turkish Ambas­sadour returning from Vien­na [Page 218] to Comorra, and minding more his interest then the honour of his Master, ho­ver'd there up and down, on one pretence or other, but would not quit the place, un­less he first receiv'd an arrear of some Pay of the Empe­rours Allowance. In the mean time Count Lesley, who on a great Plain (where no Meat could be had, nor any the least shelter from the Wind and the Cold, which were very piercing and great) stood expecting his arrival, and had continued there some six or seven hours, grew impatient at his stay.

The five hundred Horse, which convoy'd us from Gran, and were ignorant of [Page 219] the cause, were amaz'd, and so unsatisfied, that they drew up together, and began to look about them: The mo­tion and agitation of our Bodies, was the only means we had of resisting the Wea­ther, while the Messengers went between, but still with­out success.

The Obstacle was disco­ver'd at last, and 'twas pub­lickly divulg'd, that the Ottoman Ambassadours pre­tensions to Money, which had been made good, and otherwise allow'd him, occa­sion'd that disorder.

This no sooner was known, but resented by his Excellency, with the greatest indignation, who in so long a Journey had not made the [Page 220] least scruple in any thing of that nature, but still preferr'd the glory of the Emperour his Master, and the publick advantage, before his own private concerns. When he therefore saw with whom he was to deal, he resolv'd to go back with all his Retinue to Buda, and acquaint the Vi­sier there with the Turkish Ambassadours sordid nature and avarice; in order to which he caused his Coach­man to turn about his Hor­ses, and bad him go on. But the Basha of Funfkircken and the Begue of Strigonium (more sensible of the Grand Signiors honour than the Turkish Ambassadour) be­sought him to desist from that purpose, and promis'd [Page 221] their Ambassadour should quickly leave Comorra, and if he should be refractory, they with their own hands would force him from the Town.

The Turkish Ambassa­dour was summon'd accord­ingly, and durst not disobey, but came towards the even­ing, and the Ambassadours soon after, with the same state and ceremony as be­fore, arriv'd at the middle Post, and made the ex­change.

Passing by Comorra (which welcom'd our return into Christendom with the dis­charge of many Cannon) we came very late to a Village; which was Tributary to the Turks.

[Page 222]The next day about noon we arriv'd at Raab, where Count Montecuculi the Go­vernour met us out of the Town, to which as we ap­proached, the great Guns proclaimed our arrival and welcome, and not only the Souldiers drawn out of the Garrison, but those too on the Works gave us several Volleys.

The next day was dedi­cated to feasting and mirth, the Cannon in the Garrison amounting to one hundred and sixty, being all discharg'd for joy.

The Mahometans (when Masters of the Town) made under the Market-place, a deep and dismal Prison, which hath no other light, [Page 203] but that which goes in at the top through great Iron Bars. Thither several poor Turks (faln into the Pit designed for others) came up to breath fresh Air, and beg some relief, which was readily given them.

We lodg'd the three and twentieth at Altemburg, and dining the next day at Pruk, came to Swehet that even­ing.

Hither the Emperour sent Horses for our entrance into Vienna, which when we came near, we made a halt a while, and put into order, march'd two and two abreast to the Emperours Palace; all the Streets we past through, and the Windows on both sides being throng'd with Specta­ctors.

[Page 224]The Ambassadour alight­ting at the Palace aforesaid, went up the great Stairs, and passing through the Rooms came to the Presence-cham­ber, all the Cavaliers, and those of his Retinue of fa­shion attending his Excellen­cy.

Then the Emperour with­drew with the Ambassadour alone, and when they had be [...]n private a while, the Ca­valiers were called in, who likewise for some time were together with his Majesty; after which we were admit­ted, and all had the honour to kiss the Emperours Hand. The like order was observed in our waiting on the Em­press, whose Hand we like­wise kist.

[Page 225]I should now relate, with what joy and feasting Count Lesley was received by his Friends and Alliances, but the Embassy ending here, I shall end too my Relation, and give no further trouble to the Reader.