An account of several travels through a great part of Germany in four journeys ... : illustrated with sculptures / by Edward Brown ...

AN ACCOUNT OF Several Travels Through a great part of GERMANY: In Four Journeys. I. From Norwich to Colen. II. From Colen to Vienna, with a particular Deſcription of that Imperial City. III. From Vienna to Hamburg. IV. From Colen to London. WHEREIN The Mines, Baths, and other Curioſities of thoſe Parts are Treated of. Illuſtrated with Sculptures. By EDWARD BROWN M. D. Fellow of the College of Phyſicians of London, and of the Royal Society.

LONDON, Printed for Benj. Tooke, and are to be ſold at the Sign of the Ship in St. Paul's Church-yard. 1677.

Imprimatur,

G. Jane R. P. D. Hen. Epiſc. Lond. à Sacris Dom. Sept. 26. 1676.

TO THE READER.

HAving given the Engliſh World an Account of ſome remote and ſeldome travelled Countries of Europe, in the Year, 1673. I remained indifferent, as to the publiſhing any thing more, concerning nearer, or better known places; a great part whereof hath been delivered by ſome good, and obſerving Writers; upon which conſideration, though written ſome years ſince, theſe Papers have not come abroad, and had ſtill remained private, had not the deſires of Friends ſolicited this Publication, and alſo a Promiſe in my former Book oblig'd me to ſay ſomething of Vienna; as likewiſe my Journey unto that Place from England, by the Belgian Provinces and Germany; and of my Return from Vienna by Auſtria Trans-Danubiana, Moravia, Bohemia, Miſnia, Saxonia, unto Hamburg; hereof I have therefore given ſome Account in this Work, not much engaging into the Policy and State Government of Places, which have been ſo largely delivered, as to make up juſt Volumes, but have rather ſet down what is Naturally, Artificially, Hiſtorically, and Topographically remarkable; together with ſome Cuſtomes and Occurrencies which might be acceptable unto the Inquiſitive Reader, or ſerve as hints of further Enquiry, to ſuch Perſons as may hereafter Travel into thoſe Parts.

A JOURNEY FROM NORWICH TO COLEN in GERMANY.

IN the year 1668. I left the large and pleaſant City of Norwich, and went by land to Yarmouth a Port Town in Norfolk, at the mouth of the River Hierus or Yare; large, fairly built and populous, very conſiderable for the great Herring fiſhing in the Autumn, and the commerce it maintaineth in the Streights; Baltick, Britiſh and German Seas: With Italians, French, Spaniards, Dutch, Danes, and Swedes. I was here nobly entertained by that worthy and obliging perſon, Sr. Iames Iohnſon, who alſo furniſh't me with letters of Credit, to Amſterdam, Franckfort, Venice and Vienna; Whereby I was readily and handſomely accommodated in all Parts where I had afterwards occaſion to travel.

Auguſt the 14. about ſix a clock at night I went aboard the Angel-Ketch in Yarmouth Road, a Veſſel of about 55 Tuns, and we immediately ſet ſayl for Rotterdam; we left St. Nicholas-Sand on the Larboard, and after that the Nowles, a new Sand, not taken notice of to be raiſed above twelve years before. We kept our courſe all night, Eaſt and by South and Eaſt South Eaſt. The Sea burned at the head of the Ship at the beginning of the night, but the Moon riſing there appeared nothing but froth. In the morning we diſcovered Graveſandt Steeple. It is the cuſtom upon all this coaſt to ſend out Pylot-boats continually to meet all Ships at Sea, and furniſh them with Pylots to bring them through the ſands, and no Ship is to refuſe one: Having taken in our Pylot, we ſoon diſcovered Goréé Steeple, and then the Briel. We entred the River Moſa, or Maes, a Large and noble Stream, which ariſing in the Mountaines of Vauge, or Vogeſus, paſſing by Verdun, Dinant, Namur, Liege, Maeſtricht, Ruremond, Venlo, and many conſiderable Places, doth here fall into the Ocean, we had a very pleaſant paſſage up the River, ſayling by many neat Villages, as Maeſe-ſluys, Schedam, Delfshaven, and handſome rowes of Trees upon the ſhore, and arrived at Rotterdam about ſix at night. This is one of the three chief paſſages by Sea into Holland, the other being by Fluſhing and the Texell. The neareſt cut out of England into Holland is from Laiſtoffe Point to Graveſandt, which is 28 Leagues, and the deepeſt part of the Sea is about 28 Fathoms. There lay two of the greateſt Ships in Holland at that time near Rotterdam, the Crane and the Waſſenaer; this latter built in lieu of that in which Admiral Opdam was blown up, fighting againſt his Royal Highneſs the Duke of Yorke. The Heads or Keyes between which we entred the towne by water are handſome, and Ships of great burden are received into the middle of divers ſtreets without difficulty, (their Channels being deep and large) the houſes are well built, and the town Populous, they have an Exchange or place for Merchants to meet at, the ſtreets are ſo clean that the Women goe about in white Slippers, they being paved with Bricks laid edgwiſe. The Landthuiſe hath a fair front. In the great Church the Organs, the Tower and the Monument of De wit, upon the Bridge the Statue of Eraſmus, as alſo the houſe where he was born, and the Pleaſure boats of the States are worth the ſeeing. It being then the time of their Kermis or Faire, there were playes acted and many rarities ſhewn, as Lions, Leopards, &c, and a great noiſe was made about a tall Woman to be ſhewn of ſeven foot high; but the Boor of Leckerkir'k, not far from this town, was higher. Parſons and Evans, porters to King Charles the firſt, did alſo exceed her, but I have ſeldom heard of any that was taller than Martin Wierwſki a Polander, who at the age of forty two years was preſented to the Emperour Maximilian the ſecond, as a rarity of nature, and was full eight foot high, whoſe picture, as big as the life, I ſaw, near to the Franciſcans Convent at Vienna in Auſtria.

From Rotterdam I paſſed by Overſchee to Delft, by the Powderhouſe, which is a handſome one, built now at ſome diſtance from the towne to prevent the like accident which befell when the former took fire and blew up part of the town. The Piazza or market-place is a very fair one, having the front of the town houſe at one end of it, and the high ſteeple of the new Church at the other. In the old Church, Van-Tromps Tombe is very well carved upon the ſide of the Wall, himſelf lying upon a Canon encompaſſed with Arms and trophies. In the middle Iſle of the new Church there is a noble monument, the Tombe of William of Naſſaw Prince of Orange, together with his Wife and Son, Prince Maurice; his Statua is in armour with his Dog at his feet, and four Obelisks are ſupported by ten Marble pillars. In a houſe of this Town there were ſhewn me in a Wall the marks of the bullets ſhot at Prince William, who was thereby murthered 1584. and in another Church which was broad and ſpacious I ſaw a handſome Tomb for Sr. Charles Morgans Lady, and the Monument of Peter Hein the Admiral, who took the Spaniſh Silverſleet.

The Hague, Haga Comitis, the ancient place of Reſidence of the Counts of Holland, and now of the States general; is about an hours-going diſtant from Delft; in which paſſage, at ſome diſtance, we had a ſight of two of the Prince of Orange's houſes. This place is well built; the Prince's Court handſome; The Piazza by it full of green trees; many fair Houſes. The Courſe where the Coaches meet, the Pall-mall, the Wood, the Park, do much beautifie it, and the way from hence to Scheveling, from whence his Majeſty returned into England, is very remarkable, it being a ſtreight way cut through the Sand-hills, and paved with Brick for three miles, having on each hand four or five rows of Trees, and Scheveling Steeple at the end of it.

The Hague and Mad rid in Spain are accounted the greateſt Villages, or open unwalled places, in Europe, and the Hollanders have thought it more honour to be Maſters of the greateſt Village, than of a place which, if it were walled, would come ſhort of many Cities; but this may prove a dangerous reſolution, for formerly upon this advantage, Martin van Roſſem, Captain to the Duke of Gueldres, ſacked the Hague; and it was lately in the like danger when the French Forces lay at Utrecht and Worden, if they had forced a paſſage into that part of Holland.

Leyden is three hours or three Dutch miles from the Hague, at preſent one of the neareſt Towns in Europe; Well built, hath divers large Streets, beautified with rowes of Trees, and the water paſſing through the middle of them, and alſo well fortified after the modern way; I took notice of that Antiquity called Hengiſt Caſtle, or the Berg, ſaid to be built by Hengiſt the Saxon, and went up to the top thereof: Upon the top there is now an Arbour, and a Maze or Labyrinth round it, and a Well, out of which, they told us, they took a Fiſh alive when the Town was almoſt famiſhed during the ſiege, which was ſhewed to the Enemy over the wall, endeavouring to make their condition to appear better than it was, and to diſhearten the beſiegers. There are now handſome ſtairs from the top to the bottom, and a good houſe built by it, where they have their publick ſales and entertainments. But a nobler Antiquity lieth under the Sea, than any above ground; not far from hence near Calwyck is a ſquare fortreſs called Arx Britannica, built by Caligula; in the declining of the Roman Empire ruined in part by the Normans, and afterwards neglected, & over whelmed by the Sea. But in ſome years, and great retire of the Sea, the ruines have been diſcovered, and many noble Antiquities brought from it, ſome having this inſcription Ex. Ger. Inf. ex Germania inferiori. The Stadthuiſe hath a fair front towards the ſtreet. In the Anatomy Schools are a very great number of Skeletons. Two legs of an Elephant. The Skeleton of a young Whale, of a Horſe, Deer, Cow, Cat, Fox, and many other Animals; divers Skeletons of Men and Women, ſome bodies preſerved with their Muſcles, and one intire, the fleſh, skin and all parts defended from corruption. I ſaw alſo here what Monſieur de Bils pretended towards the preſervation of Bodies, but more accurately afterwards at Dr. Ruiſch his houſe at Amſterdam The Phyſick-garden, although but ſmall, is well filled with Plants, where are alſo many other both natural, and artificiall Curioſities to be ſeen, and many ſorts of Optick glaſſes. Near the garden are the Schools built of Brick with the Officina Elzeviriana on the top. In the Churches I ſaw the Monuments of many famous men. There is a Picture in the Chamber for the Burgermaſters, repreſenting the day of Judgment, drawn by Lucas van Leyden, ſo much eſteemed that, it is ſaid, the Emperour Rudolphus would have given for it as many Ducats of Gold as would have covered it. The Table alſo upon which John of Leyden wrought whilſt he was a Taylor, is a Curioſity, becauſe he proved afterwards ſo conſiderable a diſturber of Germany, and came to be King of the Anabaptiſts.

This City endured a hard ſiege by the Spaniſh forces, and they were reduced unto great extremity, but they ſaved themſelves by overflowing the Country, and ſo forcing the Enemies to make away with great loſs; and afterwards coyned a memorial-Medall with this Inſcription.

Ut Senacherib à Jeruſalem, ſic Hiſpani a Leydae noctu fugerunt. 1574.

From Leyden I came to Haerlem, a neat City, pleaſantly ſeated and having a Grove near it. The great Church is eſteemed the largeſt in Holland, with a very high Lanthorn upon it. Within are many Inſcriptions and Monuments, moſt of which are tranſcribed and ſet down in Gotfr. Hegenitii Itinerarium Hollandicum. In the Prince's houſe are all the Earles of Holland Painted upon the wall, and in the Garden in the Summer-houſe, the Picture of Laurentius Coſterus, who is ſaid to have firſt invented the art of Printing in this Town; but others attribute it to Johannes Gottenberg, a German. On the other ſide there is a Picture of a Ship with Saws, in memory of the manner how Damiata in Egypt was formerly taken by thoſe of this Town, who, as they report, accompanied Frederick Barbaroſſa in an expedition againſt the Saracens, and when the men of Peluſium or Damiata had chamed up their Port, by this invention of faſtning ſtrong Saws to the keels of their Ships, they cut the chains in ſunder, and ſo took the Town. In the rooms are very good Paintings by Hemskerk, and Goltzius, as his Prometheus and other Peeces; but Cornelius van Haerlem moſt delighted me, in his peeces of Herods killing the Innocent Children; his feaſt of the Gods, in which Vulcans foot is eſteemed at a great rate; and another Picture of a Frier and a Nun at a Collation, not inſeriour to the reſt.

The old Mens houſe, or an Hoſpital for ſixty aged perſons, is large and handſome; having a good Quadrangle and a Garden in it. The Hoſpital alſo for the ſick is very cleanly kept.

Here I firſt ſaw the manner of puniſhing Malefactours by whipping them with rods, which is more ſevere than I imagined; they lead them to a Poſt upon a ſcaffold, their hands tyed and by a pully drawn up as high as they can be extended, and then an Iron faſtned about their waſt to keep them ſteady; in which ſtretchedout poſture they receive ſometimes fifty or ſixty ſtripes or more, according to the merit of their offence.

Not far from this place there is a great Water, or noted Lake called Haerlem Meere about twenty miles in length, which is frozen over in hard Winters, and men ſwiftly travel over it by ſliding, or in ſleds. When Haerlem was beſieged there was a Naval ſight upon it; The Dutch having about an hundred and fifty Veſſels, and the Spaniards not many fewer. The Town was afterwards taken by Compoſition, but ſuch cruelty was uſed by the Spaniards that they have not yet forgot it.

From Haerlem I went to Amſterdam, a City at preſent for Riches, Trade, Shipping, fair Streets, and pleaſant habitations, ſcarce yielding to any other of the World. It is ſeated upon the River Ye, and hath its name, as 'tis reported, from a Caſtle appertaining long ſince to the Lords of Amſtel, to whom this place alſo belonged: At the beginning, the ſeat of a few fiſhermen; but afterwards increaſing, it received many priviledges from the Counts of Holland, and was made a Town or City by the favour of their Grants and Charters. In the year 1470. it was walled about with a Brick-wall, to defend it againſt the Citizens of Utrecht, they having been in great danger to have fallen into their hands, if thoſe of Utrecht had purſued their victories. In few Months after alſo, the whole Town was almoſt reduced to Aſhes by fire, but by the increaſe of their Traffick they eaſily overcame theſe loſſes, waded through all difficulties, and rendred good ſervices to their Counts, and received the honour afterwards from Maximilian the Emperour to have the Imperiall Crown over their Armes, which are three Croſſes on a Pale

About the year 1525. Gelen, ſent from the new King of Munſter, paſſed through Frieſland and came to this City; where having made a party, and communicated his deſign, he reſolved to ſurprize the Town by night, at the time of the ſounding of the Bell; to which intent they were already entred the Market place, had ſet upon the Town houſe: and cut in pieces thoſe who reſiſted them. When by great providence the rope to the great Bell was taken away; the Magiſtrates had notice of it, and cauſed all the ſtreets and Avenues leading to the Market-place to be ſtopped up with Woolſacks and Hopſacks, whereby they were hindred in their deſign of taking the Town by night, and the next morning their number being diſcovered to be inconſiderable, they were ſet upon, driven into the Stadthuis, and defeated.

Of late years this City is mightily encreaſed and encompaſſed with a new Wall, and fortified after the modern way. The new Streets are large and uniform: and the whole Town being in a low Marſhy ground, the water is let in through all the conſiderable Streets. The River Amſtel paſſeth through the City, being let in under a handſome well-contrived Bridge of Eleven Arches, which is ſo built as to make part of the Wall and Rampart, and is 26 paces broad. The whole Town is built upon Piles, or high Firr-trees, driven down perpendicularly into the Earth ſo thick together, that nothing more can be forced in between them: And by this means they build Houſes in the Sea, and lay Foundations ſtrong enough to ſupport the greateſt Buildings whatſoever, in places where no ſolid bottom is to be found. But they muſt needs be at a great expence and labour before they can lay the firſt Stone: And the number of Trees required to each Foundation is conſiderable; ſince for the Foundation of one Tower or Steeple alone, over againſt the Church of St. Katherine, Mr. J. de Parivall, who wrote Les Delices de la Hollande, reckoneth that there was rammed into the ground a Forreſt, as he calls it, of Six thouſand three hundred and thirty four great Trees. About this manner of work, for the fixing their Foundations, I ſaw them employed in divers places, particularly at the Eaſt-India-houſe, and at a place where a Lutheran Church was then deſigned to be built, So that it was not improbably ſaid, That if a man could ſee all under this City, he could hardly behold a greater Forreſt.

The Stadthuis or Town-houſe, is the nobleſt Building in all theſe Countries. A Pile of Freeſtone of an hundred and ten paces in Front, being larger than the Magnified Front of the Church of St. Peter's at Rome, and eighty one paces deep, or on the ſides. The Chambers in it, the Pictures and Statues, are worthy to be ſeen and admired. The firſt Room on the right hand, or Judgmenthall, where the Malefactors receive their Sentence, is adorned with large Statues, hanging down their heads in mournful poſtures, as if concerned or grieving at what was then pronounced. The Floors are of Marble; the Roofs are richly gil't and painted. Upon the top of all ſtands Atlas or Columlus, holding a Globe upon his ſhoulder made of Copper, of about ten foot Diameter, which is as large perhaps as any Ball or Globe whatſoever employed to this ornamental uſe. That upon St. Peter's at Rome, as having been in it, I judge to be leſs; as likewiſe that at Florence. The Turkiſh Ornament to the Tower of their Moſques, is three Balls one above another, and an half Moon over them, but they are leſs by far, at leaſt ſuch as I have ſeen: and by relation from Eye-witneſſes, the largeſt of the three noble gilded Balls at Morocco are inferiour to this. But I will ſay nothing more of this great building, the Stadthuis, ſince there is a peculiar deſcription of it in Folio, with Cuts and Figures of the moſt remarkable Curioſities in it. The Exchange is fair and large, and above it are Shops: it is very well frequented, and he that cometh after twelve payeth ſix ſtivers.

Divers of their Churches are fair: In the new Church, the partition with Balliſters of Braſs, and the carved Pulpit, are noble. In the old Church the Tomb of Van Hulſe and Heemskerk are remarkable. Heemskerk did his Country great Services in their firſt attempts upon India: for the King of Spain having conſiſcated ſome of the Hollanders Ships, who traded to his Dominions, which were then the Staple for the India Trade. It was reſolved by the permiſſion of Prince Maurice and the States, to ſet out a Fleet of eight ſhips for the Indies; four of which were to paſs by the way of the Atlantick Ocean, and the Cape of Good-hope: And the other four were to ſearch a paſſage towards the Kingdoms of Cathay and China by the North-eaſt, whereby the paſſage alſo into thoſe parts might be expected much ſhorter than that which was known to the Spaniards.

To this intent theſe four laſt veſſels ſailed out of the Texel, June 5. 1594. and returned in September, not being able to proceed by reaſon of the Ice. But upon the relation of the Voyage by William Barenſon, there were two other Expeditions afterwards to Nova Zembla; in the laſt of which they wintered there, and Barenſon loſt his life. Heemskerk was the chief of the twelve which returned from that cold habitation, where none but Bears and Foxes could well endure the Winter, where he had been twice, and afterwards made two rich Voyages into India. Upon whoſe happy returns the Holland Eaſt-India Company was firſt eſtabliſhed, and a prohibition made for any other of that Country to trade thither for the ſpace of One and twenty years.

But to proceed to other publick Buildings in this City. The Tuchthuis or Raſpelhuis, or Houſe of Correction for debauched young men, ſuch as are incorrigible and diſobedient to Parents or Laws, hath at the entrance of the Gate two Lions bridled, a proper Embleme, with this Inſcription, Virtutis eſt domare quae cuncti pavent. This was formerly a Monaſtery belonging to the Nuns of the Order of St. Clare, and converted to this uſe 1595. They who are put in, are forced to work and gain their Bread with hard labour. I ſaw thoſe who raſped Brazil, having a certain task ſet them every day, work ſo hard, that being naked and in a ſweat, and the duſt of the Brazil wood flying upon them, they were all over painted of a beautiful red colour. Which odd ſight made me call to mind the Phanſie of my Lady Marchioneſs of Newcaſtle, of a Nation wherein the People were of Orange-tawny colour, and the King of Purple.

They told us that ſome that were committed to their charge, and not to be brought to work by blows, they placed in a large Ciſtern, and let the water in upon them; placing only a Pump by them for their relief, whereby they are forced to labour for their lives, and to free themſelves from drowning. One we ſaw put into a narrow Dungeon, and kept from meat. Some are put into this Houſe for a longer time, ſome for a ſhorter. It hath been a puniſhment for ſuch as have drawn their Daggers, or offered to ſtab any one. And ſome Citizens, though able and rich enough, contrive it ſo, that when their Sons are extravagant and maſterleſs, the Officers ſeize upon them, and carry them into this Houſe, where they are not forced to any hard labour, but kept in till they ſee ſufficient ſigns of a mending their life.

This way of Correction may ſeem ſevere to many, yet is not comparable to that which is ſaid to have been formerly uſed in Germany. Particularly at Colen, in the white Tower, at the North end of the Town, near the Rhine; where it is reported, that ſuch Youths who were not otherwiſe to be reclaimed, were in a barbarous manner ſhut up in the white Tower. The height and thickneſs of the walls ſecured them from eſcaping, or from their complaints being heard. Near the top was placed out of their reach a loaf of bread, the laſt remedy againſt ſtarving, which while their bold neceſſity forced them to reach at, they executed their laſt ſentence upon themſelves, and miſerably brake their own necks.

Somewhat like the Raſpelhuis is the Spinhuis, or Houſe of Correction, for the young women who live looſely, are taken in the night, or can give no account of their living. They are put in for a certain time, according as their fault meriteth, and are bound to make lace, ſew, or employ their time perpetually in ſome honeſt labour.

Thoſe of the better ſort are permitted to have Chambers apart. In one large Room I ſaw about an hundred of them, and ſome very well dreſſed and fine, which was an unexpected ſight to me, and would ſure be more ſtrange to behold in France and England.

The Weeſhuis, or Hoſpital for Children, where there are Six hundred Orphans carefully looked after, and well educated.

The Dolhuis, or a Houſe for ſuch as are Delirious, Maniacal, or Melancholical of both Sexes.

The Gaſthuis, or Hoſpital for the Sick, being large, and hath a great Revenue.

The Mannenhuis, or Hoſpital for old Men, and ſuch as are no longer able to labour towards their own ſupport.

Beſides all which, there are great Sums of mony collected for the poor, ſo that there is not a Begger to be ſeen in the Streets, and upon all aſſignations or appointments of meeting at the Tavern, or elſewhere, and upon many other occaſions, whoſoever faileth to come at the exact time, forfeiteth more or leſs to the uſe of the Poor.

The Eaſt-India-houſes are remarkable, and the great Stores of their Commodities, Cinamon, Green-ginger, Camphire, Pepper, Calecuts, Indico, &c. The ſhips are of a great burden: their Houſe was then enlarging, although it was great before; and a perfect Town for all Trades within it ſelf.

The Admiralteyt, or Admiralty where their Stores for War and Shipping are laid up, is encompaſſed with water; near to it there lay then 72 Men of War. In the Houſe we ſaw their Cables, Grapling irons, Pullies, Oars, Charges for Powder, Lanthorns for ſhips, &c. At the entrance of the Gate hangeth up a Canoe with a man in it, dryed up, ſo as to be preſerved from corruption, and a Paddle in his hand: he was encloſed up to the waſte in the Canoe, in ſuch ſort, as the Fiſh-skins, which were the cover to it, being ſo ſewed together that no water could get in, he might keep the Sea in the greateſt Storms without danger. The top of this Houſe, as of divers others alſo in this City, is a Reſervatory for Rain-water, which they have the more need of, becauſe they have little good water hereabouts.

The faireſt Streets in the Town are Harlem-ſtreet, the Cingel, Princes Graft, Kaiſers Graft, and the New Buildings in the Iſland towards Gottenburg. And if they continue to build with Freeſtone, they will ſtill ſurpaſs theſe, which, I'le aſſure you, are in no ſmall meaſure beautiful.

I ſaw a Globe to be ſold, made by Vingbomes, between ſix and ſeven foot Diameter, valued at Sixteen thouſand Guldens: The Meridian alone, being of braſs, coſt a thouſand Guldens. The Globe is made of Copper-plates excellently well painted, with all the new Diſcoveries in it, as that of Anthony Van Dimons Land, found out 1642. in 42 degrees of Southern Latitude, and 170 of Longitude, thoſe towards the Northweſt of Japan, and thoſe places both about N. Z. and alſo in the Tartarian Sea beyond the Streights of Voygats, New-Holland, Weſt-Frieſland, Cape d'Hyver, &c. but I have ſince met with a Book, which doth ſomewhat contradict this; entituled A Voyage into the Northern Countries by Monſieur Martiniere, who went in one of the three ſhips belonging to the Northern Company of Copenhagen, in the year 1653. and by that means had occaſion to converſe with the Norwegians, Iſlanders, Laplanders, Kilops, Borandians, Siberians, Zemblians, and Samojedes, who are Neighbours to the Tartars and Tingorſes, in his 46 Chapter he expreſſeth himſelf after this manner. There having fallen into my hands ſeveral Geographical Charts of ſundry eminent and much celebrated Authors, I am much amazed to ſee how they are miſtaken in the poſition of Zembla, which they place much nearer the North Pole than really it is; they divide it likewiſe by the Sea from Greenland, and place it far diſtant from it, when as indeed thoſe two Countries are Contiguous, the Coaſts of Greenland butting upon the Coaſts of Zembla, ſo as did not the great quantity of Snow, and the violence of the cold render thoſe Borders uninhabitable, the paſſage would be very eaſie by Land from Greenland to Zembla, and from Zembla paſſing the Pater-noſter Mountains to enter into Samojedia, from thence into Tartary or Muſcovy, as one pleaſed: But of the truth of this we ſhall be further informed at the return of Captain Wood.

I was amazed likewiſe to ſee they had deſcribed the Streight called Voygat, not above ten French Leagues in length, whereas it contains above five and thirty Dutch Leagues, which is ſix times as much. Again, they would perſwade us that through that Streight our ſhips might paſs into the great Tartarian Ocean, which is a miſtake. And although they indeed do affirm that in the time of Prince Maurice of Naſſau, a Dutch Veſſel paſſed that way into that Ocean, yet it is a manifeſt errour, that Streight being bounded, as I ſaid before, by the Pater-noſter Mountains, which are half a League high, and the tops of them covered with perpetual Snow, which never diſſolves. And of this I can give a poſitive teſtimony, having been my ſelf in that Streight under thoſe Mountains in the Dog-days, which is the hotteſt time of the year.

From the Steeple of the Old Church of Amſterdam, I had a good proſpect of the Town, and the great number of ſhips lying upon one ſide of it, like a Wood; and all the Towns about it. The Roofs of the Houſes being ſharp, it is a moſt uneven Town to be looked upon downward, as it is a handſome one to be looked on upward; and is not ſo divertiſing or pleaſing to the ſight, as ſome Towns in France and Italy, which have flatter Roofs, or elſe are covered with a fine black Slat or Ardoiſe. Upon this, and all other Towers of the Town, a Trumpet is ſounded at Midnight, and in other parts of the City at ſix a Clock night and morning. At eleven a clock, the time of going on to the Exchange, there is good Muſick at the Stadthuis, given by the Earl of Leiceſter. They make good Harmony alſo every hour in playing upon their Chimes and Bells in moſt Steeples. And there is a Muſick-houſe or Entertaining-houſe, where any one is admitted for a Stiver, hears moſt ſorts of Muſick, ſeeth many good Water-works, and divers motions by Clock-work, Pictures, and other Divertiſements.

During my ſtay at Amſterdam, I had the opportunity of ſeeing divers Learned Men, and Perſons of Note. Dr. Ruiſh ſhewed us many Curioſities in Anatomy, as the Skeletons of young Children, and Faetus's of all Ages, neatly ſet together, and very white; the Lymphatick veſſels ſo preſerved, as to ſee the valves in them. A Liver excarnated, ſhowing the Minute veſſels, all ſhining and clear. The Muſcles of Children diſſected and kept from corruption: entire Bodies preſerved; the face of one was very remarkable, without the leaſt ſpot or change of colour or alteration of the lineaments, from what might be expected immediately after death: he had then kept it two years, and hoped it would ſo continue. Dr. Swammerdam ſhewed us divers of his Experiments which he hath ſet down in his Treatiſe De Reſpiratione; and a very fair Collection of Inſects brought from ſeveral Countries; a Stagg-fly of a very great bigneſs; an Indian Scolopendria, or Forty-foot; a fly called Ephemeron, and many other Curioſities. Old Glawber the Chymiſt ſhewed us his Laboratory: And we received much civility from Blaſius the Phyſick Profeſſour who hath wrote a Comment upon Veſlingius.

The Jews live more handſomly and ſplendidly here, than in any other place: Their chief Synagogue is large, adorned with Lamps of Braſs and Silver. We happened to be there at the Feaſt of their New-year; ſo that their blowing of Horns, ſhowting and ſinging was not omitted: Some of them underſtand divers Languages. I ſaw one Moſes di Pas, a Learned young Man, and Orobio a Phyſician of Note. And I was ſorry to ſee divers here to profeſs themſelves publickly Jews, who had lived at leaſt reputed Chriſtians, for a long time in other places: One who had been a Franciſcan Frier thirty years: and another who had been Profeſſour ſome years at Tholouze, and before that Phyſician to the King of Spain. Juda Leo a Jew, hath taken great pains in making a Model of the Temple of Solomon, of Solomon's Houſe, the Fort of the Temple, the Tabernacle, the Iſraelites encamping, and other Curioſities. I was preſent at the Circumciſion of a Child; which is performed by thruſting a Probe in between the Glans and Praeputium, and ſeparating it, or dilating the Praeputium, ſo as the inward Skin may be drawn forward as well as the outward; then by applying an Inſtrument joynted like a Carpenters Rule, or a Sector, the Skin is held faſt beyond the Glans, and with a broad Inciſion-knife, or Circumciſion-knife, the Foreskin is cut off cloſe to the Inſtrument; and what remains of Skin is immediately put back, the blood ſtopped with Powders, and a Plaiſter applyed; the Relations and Acquaintance ſinging all the while, whereby the cries of the Infant are leſs heard.

Leaving Amſterdam, I paſſed by a peculiar Burialplace of the Jews, who are not permitted to interr their dead within the Walls, by Overskerk, Bamburg, and in ſix or ſeven hours arrived at Utretcht, in a Boat drawn with Horſes through artificial Cuts of Water, which is the way of Travelling in Holland, Utretcht, and divers other Provinces of the Low-Countries.

Utretcht is an ancient, large, handſome City, and chief of the Province of the ſame name, called formerly Antonina, and afterwards Ultrajectum. Long famous for its Epiſcopal See founded by Dagobert King of France, who endowed it richly with Lands and Poſſeſſions: Willebald, or Willebrode an Engliſhman, was their firſt Biſhop, who converted theſe Countries unto Chriſtianity; and the following Biſhops grew ſo powerful, that they were able to bring many thouſand men into the field, and to wage great Wars againſt the Counts of Holland: Their Succeſſion alſo continued for above Nine hundred years. It is now an Univerſity, founded by the States in the Year 1636. I ſhall not trouble you with the Names of the Profeſſors; the Learned Mr. Ray, whom I had the honour to meet in divers places abroad, having already cauſed to be printed the Series Lectionum of this and many other Univerſities in the Low-Countries, Germany, and Italy, in his Obſervations Topographical, Moral. Phyſiological, ſet forth 1673. The great Church hath a very high Tower, or three Steeples one above another: From the higheſt of which I had not only a good ſight of the Town it ſelf, which lay under mine Eye like a Platform, but of many others alſo; Utretcht being in a plain flat Country, and ſo well ſeated, and encompaſſed with ſo populous a Country, that in a days Journey a man may go from hence to any one of fifty walled Towns and Cities. The Engliſh Church here is an ancient Building; the Pillar in the middle of it, whoſe Foundation could not be laid but upon Bulls-hides, is much taken notice of: It was built 1099. and hath the Picture of a Bull upon it with this Inſcription;

Accipe Poſteritas quod per tua ſaecula narres, Taurinis cutibus fundo ſolidata columna eſt.

There is an old Library belonging to this Church, which containeth divers old Books and Manuſcripts. A large Bible in ſix Volumes, painted and gilded after a very ancient manner: Two Idols taken (in time of war) long ſince in Germany, and given to this place by the Emperour Henry the Fourth, are worth the ſeeing, not ſo much for their neatneſs, as their Antiquity and odd ſhape: As alſo a Horn made out of a Tooth, ſaid to be given at the ſame time. There are alſo three Unicorns Horns, little differing in length; the longeſt being five foot and an half: I drank out of one of them, the end being tipp'd with Silver, and made hollow to ſerve for a Cup. Theſe were of the Sea-Unicorn, or the Horn or long wreathed Tooth of ſome Sea-Animal much like it, taken in the Northern Seas; of which I have ſeen many, both in Publick Repoſitories, and in Private Hands. Two ſuch as theſe, the one Ten foot long, were preſented not many years ſince to the King of Denmark, being taken near to Nova Zembla; and I have ſeen ſome full fifteen foot long; ſome wreathed very thick, ſome not ſo much, and others almoſt plain: Some largeſt and thickeſt at the End near the head; others are largeſt at ſome diſtance from the Head: Some very ſharp at the end or point, and others blunt. My honoured Father Sir T. B. hath a very fair piece of one which was formerly among the Duke of Curlands Rarities, but after that he was taken Priſoner by Douglas in the wars between Sweden and Poland, it came into a Merchants hands, of whom my Father had it, he hath alſo a piece of this ſort of Unicorns Horn burnt black, out of the Emperour of Ruſſia's Repoſitorie, given him by Dr. Arthur Dee, who was Son to Dr. John Dee, and alſo Phyſician to the Emperour of Ruſſia, when his Chambers were burned, in which he preſerved his Curioſities. I have ſeen a walking Staff, a Scepter, a Scabbard for a Sword, Boxes, and other Curioſities made out of this Horn, but was never ſo fortunate as from experience to confirm its Medical Efficacy againſt Poyſons, contagious Diſeaſes, or any other evident effect of it, although I have known it given ſeveral times, and in great quantity. But of theſe Unicorns Horns no man ſure hath ſo great a Collection as the King of Denmark; and his Father had ſo many, that he was able to ſpare about an hundred of them, to build a Magnificent Throne out of Unicorns Horns.

I had the honour to ſee divers Perſons of Note in this City; as D. Cyprianus ab Ooſtergo, Dr. Regius, Voetius, the only Member then left alive of the Synod of Dort, and others; but miſſed the ſight of the Learned Anna Maria Skurman, who was then gone out of Town, and was forced to content my ſelf with beholding her Picture, well drawn by her own hand, with this Inſcription of hers under it:

Ceruitis hic pict â noſtros in Imagine vultus, Si negat ars formam gratia veſtra dabit.

The Painters Hall is conſiderable, wherein are many good pieces to be ſeen of ſeveral Maſters: Amongſt which there are good Heads by Van Colen and Tuart; Landskips by Soft-lever; and good Drapery, eſpecially in ſome Turkiſh Habits, by Van der Mere.

This Town is alſo beautified with a fair Piazza or Market-place, divers long Streets, and a Pall-mall with five rows of Trees on each ſide. In the Church of St. Katherino is the Tomb of my Lord Gorge. Though I had ſeen France and Italy, and the Noble Cities thereof, which are worthily admired by all, yet I was much ſurprized upon the firſt ſight of the United Provinces, eſpecially of Holland, and the adjoyning places. He that hath obſerved the eaſie accommodation for Travel therein, both by Land and Water, their excellent order and regular courſe in all things; the number of Learned men; the abundance of Varieties in all kinds; the induſtry, frugality, and wealth of the people; their numerous good Towns; their extraordinary neatneſs in their Buildings and Houſes; their proper Laws and adminiſtration of Juſtice; and their incredible Number of Shipping and Boats, will think it an omiſſion to reſt in the ſight of other Countries without a view of this. A Country of little extent, and ſoon travelled over, but ſo repleniſhed with People, with good Cities, fair Towns and Villages, as not to be met with upon ſo little a compaſs of ground, except perhaps in China.

From Utrecht, in two hours, I came to Friſwick, and paſſed over the River Leck to Viaenen, where there is little remarkable beſides the Houſe and Gardens of Count Brederode, one of the Ancient Nobility of Holland, or, according to common eſteem, of the moſt Noble Family of all; the Family of the Egmonds being formerly eſteemed the Richeſt; the Waſſenaer's the moſt ancient, and the Brederodes the Nobleſt. The Mount in this Garden ſerveth for the Rampart to the Town, and on a round Bullwark are divers ſmall braſs Guns planted. The Statua's of the twelve Caeſars, of Ariſtotle, the Pyramids and Partitions, with the Paintings upon the wall, are the reſt of its Ornaments.

From hence I paſſed ſtill by Boat through the Land of Arkel, ſome ſay, derived from Hercules; belonging formerly to the Lords of Gorchom and Arkeland, till by Mary, daughter to the laſt Lord of Arkeland, it ſell to John Lord of Egmond, and afterwards was ſold to William the ſixth Earl of Holland I arrived this night at Gorchom, a Town well ſeated, near three Rivers, the Ling, the Wael, and the Maes. The Market-place is fair; the Stadthuis is ſunk ſomewhat on one ſide. The Governour hath a good Houſe, and the Church a very high thick Steeple: the Works are of Earth; the Water-gate is handſome, and over it in Great Letters is this Inſcription;

Civitas in quâ maximè Cives legibus parent, & in pace beata, & bello invicta. 1642.

The more remarkable becauſe it made good its Inſcription in the year 1672. when Louis the Fourteenth, King of France, came down with ſo powerful an Army into the Low-Countries, that in that Summers Expedition he took thirty walled Towns and Cities, this Water-gate being the Limit to his Conqueſts this way, beyond which his Forces were not able to attempt any thing.

Leaving Gorcum, I paſſed by Worcum, on the other ſide of the River, and then by the Caſtle of Loveſteyn, ſtrongly ſeated and well fortified; and therefore hath been often made uſe of to ſecure Perſons of Note. Sir George Aſcue of late years ſuffered his Impriſonment herein, and formerly Barnevelt; upon which occaſion this Caſtle hath been much ſpoken of, and hath given the name to that whole party who ſided with him, well known at preſent by the name of the Loveſtein Faction. Paſſing on further up the Maes, I left Proye on the left hand, and Hueſden on the right, and the next day morning arrived at the Boſch.

Hertogen Boſch, Sylva Ducis, Boſcum Ducis, Boiſleduc, Bolduc, takes its name from a Wood belonging to the Dukes of Brabant: It is a ſtrong pleaſant City, ſeated upon the River Diſa or Deeſe, which entreth the Maes, about two Leagues below it; one of the greateſt Cities in Brabant; and for its ſtrength, for which 'tis beholden both to Nature and to Art, the States of the United Provinces poſſeſs not any one more conſiderable, and is a very good Frontier againſt all Enemies on this ſide: It is encompaſſed on all ſides with Fenns and Marſhy Grounds. The Avenues to it are by narrow Cauſies, made turning and winding, to be commanded in all places by one or other of the ſix Sconces or Forts built at ſome diſtance without the Town for its greater Security. Beſides which, the Hollanders having ſome reaſon to be jealous of the Inhabitants, whoſe affections might incline them towards the neighbouring Princes, of whoſe Religion moſt of them are, they have built a Citadel within the Town, a Briel or pair of Spectacles to look more accurately into their Affairs. It is a handſom regular Fort of five Baſtions, each Curtain is 84 ordinary paces long; the Faces of each Baſtion 63; and the Flank or Neck 24. There is a handſome Houſe of Stone for the Centry at the point of each Baſtion, and the middle of each Curtain, every one of which coſt Seven hundred Guldens. Here is alſo a Field Canon of an extraordinary length, ſaid to be able to fling a Bullet almoſt as far as Bommel. The Piazza in this Town is Triangular.

This City was made an Epiſcopal See, 1559. The Cathedral is Dedicated to St. John. In the Quire are painted the Arms of many of the Knights of the Golden Fleece. And over the upper Stalls or Seats, an Inſcription in French, which contains the Hiſtory of the firſt Inſtitution, and Model of this Order, by the moſt High and mighty Prince Philip the Good, Duke of Burgundy, Lorain, and Brabant: Beſides divers Statua's and Pillars. There are alſo ſeveral Monuments of the Biſhops of Boſche and others.

This Town was taken from the King of Spain by the Forces of the Confederate Eſtates, in the year 1628. after a long and chargeable Siege; in which the little Sconce, one of the Forts towards the South, did excellent Service.

Divers of the Nuns were ſtill alive in this Town, but at Utretcht they were all dead.

From the Boſche we travelled through a plain Country, ſomewhat Sandy, to Breda upon the River Merck: A place very conſiderable, pleaſantly ſeated, and wellfortified. It hath formerly had more Outworks than at preſent: For they have taken away the Crown-works, and left only the Half-moons and Horn-works, and Conſerves or Contregards about the Half-moons. There is a large Ditch of Water round the Counterſcarp, and a ſmall Ravelin between each Baſtion, joyned to the Rampart within ſide of the Ditch. There is alſo a double Haye or Quickſet-hedge almoſt quite round the Town, beſides Paliſados. The Parapet is very thick, and ſtrengthned with a row of Elms, and ſeconded with another row at three or four yards diſtance, round the Town; the bodies of the Baſtions are ſunk down or h • llowed away, and filled with a thicket of Elms. The Half Moons are the like without the Town, and after all, a breſt-work between the Town and the Baſtions; and Cavaliers upon ſeveral places of the Rampart.

This Town belongeth unto the Prince of Orange, unto whom it hath deſcended by the right of the houſe of Naſſaw, by the Marriage of Engelbert the ſeventh Earle of that houſe, with Mary daughter and Heir of Philip the laſt Lord thereof, about the year 1400. It was taken by the Spaniards in the beginning of the Low Country Wars, and was afterwards Surpriſed by the Dutch, by a ſtratagem performed by eighty men hid in a Boat covered over with Turf, and ſo let into the Caſtle. In the year 1625. the Spaniards took it again, as by Inſcriptions and Chronograms are to be ſeen in divers places, as that over the door of the Church.

a MbroſI ſpIno Lae VIg ILantIa bre Da e XpUgnata.

As alſo this,

PhILIppUs hIſpanlae reX gUbernante Iſabe LLa CLarâ EUgenIa Infanta, obſIDente ſpInoLa qUaternIs regIbus frUſtra ConIUrantIbus breDa VIGtor potItur.

Afterwards it was beſieged and taken by Frederick Hendrick Prince of Orange, as an Inſcription at the Weſtend of the Church ſets it down.

Auxilio ſolius Dei, Auſpiciis confederati Belgij, Ferdinando Auſtriaco Hiſpaniae Infanta cum ingenti exercitu fruſtra ſuccurrente, a Iulij 23 obſeſſamad 19 Auguſti oppugnatam. Fredericus Henricus Princeps araUſIUs bre DaMe eXpUgnat ſeXta OCtobris.

The Church is fair and hath many good Monuments, as Reneſſe's Tombe; a Monument for Sir Thomas Aleſbury ſet up by the Lord Chancellor Hide; an old Tombe erected 1349. for John Lord of Lech and Breda; the Tombe of Grave Engleberg Van Naſſaw and his family on the ſide of the Wall; the Here Van Horne and his three Wives; but the Principal Monument is that of Grave Hendrick Van Naſſaw, whoſe Armour is ſupported by four Warriers upon their Knees; he built the Caſtle of Breda, which is at preſent both ſtrong and beautiful: I obſerved the place where the Turfe-Boat came in, and where the Prince came over into the Town. The Gallery, the Garden, the Walks, and Dials are worth the ſeeing, the Town in handſomely built, populous, and generally hath a great Garriſon in it.

Leaving Breda we ſoon came by Land to St. Gertruydenberg the laſt Town on the North of Brabant, where it joyneth to the Province of Holland, a ſmall place, but a good Town for fiſhing, lying upon a Hill near the great broad Water called de Waert, made by the falling of the Maes and many other Rivers into it. This Town is fortified and Garriſoned. The Church and Steeple have been Large and fair, and the ruines of the latter are obſervable, in regard that this Steeple was ſhot down by a Stratagem of the Prince of Orange, while the Governour and chief of the Town were upon it, to obſerve a falſe alarm in the Prince's Camp, and ſo loſt themſelves and the Town. We Paſſed from hence over a large Water which hath overflow'd a great part of the Country upon one ſide of it, no leſs than ſeventy two Pariſhes being drowned at once, the Village of Ramſdun onely eſcaping, and ſo by an old Tower called the houſe of Murney, to the Maiden Town of Dort, or Dordrecht.

Dordracum, ſo called by ſome from Duri or Dureti forum, at preſent Dort, being ſeated in the Waves of thoſe great Lakes made by the Maes and Waal, is not unaptly from its ſituation compared to a Swans neſt, it is reckoned the firſt and chief Town of South Holland, in reſpect of its antiquity, as having ſerved to ſecure Odocer in his retreat almoſt eight hundred years ſince, and alſo in reſpect of its Priviledges, in having the Mint here, and being the Staple for Rheniſh wine and Engliſh Cloath.

In this Town are many fair houſes and pleaſant Gardens. The great Church is large, the Steeple 312 ſteps high; the top thereof being made of four large Dyalls. There is alſo an Exchange or Place for Merchants to meet. The Engliſh have two Churches, and the French one. The Key or Head to the water ſide is handſome, and the Country about very pleaſant; we ſaw the Chamber wherein the Synod of Dort was aſſembled 1611. a large fair room; and took a collation in the ſame houſe, in a high turret overlooking the Town and Country: Our ſeats Moving round about the Table continually; ſo as the diverſity of the proſpect made it more delightful. The great Veſſels round-bellied, which trade between Coln and this City ſeemed ſtrange; as alſo the long Luyck or Liege-boats; and the number of People that continually live in them. At my going away from hence I embarked in a Veſſel bound for the Iſland of Walcheren, ſayling by moſt of the Iſlands of Zealand and in ſight of divers good Towns. as Willemſtadt, Zirickze, Tergoes; obſerving in ſome places where the Sea had overflow'd the Land; and in others where the Induſtry of the Inhabitants ſtill keep it out, by keeping up their banks, and thatching the Shoars of the Sea. We Landed at Ter-Vere, where there is a good Haven and Harbour for Ships, the Walls were built in the year 1357, towards the Sea are round towers. The Piazza is long. The Scotch have had a Factory here for above two hundred years, and the Marquiſs of this Place did formerly make one of the three States, by which Zealand was Governed. The Abbot of St Nicholas in Middleburg repreſenting the Eccleſiaſtical juriſdiction, and the Towns of Middleburg, Zirickzee, Ter-Veer, Fluſſing, Tolen, Martins-dike, Romerſwal and Tergoes, ſupplying the Third: over againſt this place where a Town had formerly ſunk into the Sea, the Steeple only remaineth to be ſeen. From hence to Middleburg the way is Paved with Brick; as it is alſo from Town to Town in moſt places of Holland.

Middleburg is the chief Town in the Iſland Walachria, ſeated almoſt in the middle of it, being well built, large, rich, and Populous, it is the fourth Port for the Eaſt-India trade: hath a large, broad Water within the Town, and a ſtreight cut through the Land to carry Veſſels out to Sea, the whole is very well Fortified, the Officers here are choſen by Strangers or Foreigners, the Churches are many and remarkable, the new Church is of an eightſquare figure with a Cupola, the Tower of the old great Church very high, the Stadthuiſe with the old ſtatuas, about it, the round Piazza, and many private buildings are Conſiderable, and the whole Country about it is fruitful; either divided into Gardens and Orchards, or Planted with Madder, Pompions, or Grain and Fruits. The Zealanders are generally addicted to the intereſt of the Prince of Orange, and great Lovers of his Perſon. I found them not a little delighted that the Prince had been with them ſome days before, and was made Premier Noble, or chief of the States of Zealand; which was chiefly brought about, as I was informed, by Penſioner Hubert, Le Sage, Duvelaer and Vriebergen, formerly no great friends to the Prince, eſpecially Vriebergen, who was the moſt earneſt of any to bring him in, in deſpite to the Hollanders, for General Worts his ſake, who being ſet over the Zealand forces by thoſe of Amſterdam, lately affronted Vriebergens Son who was a Colonel, at the head of his Regiment. I was entertained at Middleburg very courteouſly by Mr. Hill the Miniſter, who alſo ſent his Kinſman with me to Fluſſing. Fliſſinga or Vluſſing, hath Stone-Wals towards the Sea, and Mudworks towards the Land; a very good Port, and a ſtrong Town; the waves of the Sea waſhing its walls; it was one of the firſt Towns which the Low Country men took from the Spaniards, in the year 1572, and was made Cautionary to Queen Elizabeth together with Rammakins and the Briel. 1585. The renowned Sr. Philip Sidney being the firſt Governour of it, and ſurrendred by King James to the United ſtates. 1616. The Sea ſhoar here abouts is not only faced with ruſhes, flaggs and reeds ſtaked down as high as the Tide uſually ariſeth, but it is alſo ſtrongly bound over with Oſiers and hurdles and great Poſts driven in to break the force of the Water, and ſecure the Piles which make the Harbour or Havens mouth. The Town-houſe is handſomely built, ſtanding in the Piazza, having three rowes of Pillars in the Front one above another; the Lower Dorick, the ſecond Ionick, and the higheſt Corinthian; and on the top there is a Gallery or Balcony to Diſcover ſhips at Sea. This is the third Port for the Eaſt-India trade; Amſterdam and Rotterdam being the firſt and ſecond: here lay many great ſhips in the middle of the Town, and conſiderable men of War, as the St. Patrick, and the Admiral of Zealand: we ſaw them alſo building of divers ſhips, and when the Prince was here, they Lanched one to divertiſe him, to which he gave the name of William Frederick, they alſo preſented him with a Golden Bottle; that being the Arms of the Town: the Prince Landed at Armuyden and went from thence to Tergoes, and thence to Breda; they reported his entertainment in Walcheren amounted to fifty thouſand Guldens. The Women in this Iſland wear moſt of them red Cloth and ſtraw-Hats, if a Man dies a great bundle of Straw is layd at the Door, if a Boy, a little one, if a Woman, the ſtraw lies on the left ſide of the Door: when any Woman is brought to bed; they faſten a piece of Lawne to the ring and rapper of the Door; and make it up into a little baby or puppet finely pleated, and in ſuch manner, as to diſtinguiſh of what ſex the young Child is.

Returning to Middleburg by Land I obſerved there was a row of Trees round the Town between the moat and rampart, where ordinarily there is only a breaſtworke or a hedge, and embarked at Middleburg again, and paſſed down the River by the fort Rammakins, and ſo for the Schelde, Sayling up that noble River till we had paſſed the Fort Frederick Henrick and came to Lillo; where we ſtayd till the Veſſell was ſearched. Over againſt Lillo, lyeth another Fortification, called Lifgens hock; the Fort de la croix is the laſt that belongeth to the Hollanders, and lieth on the North ſide of the River; the Banks are cut nigh to it, and the Country drowned for its greater ſecurity. The Spaniſh Forts hereabouts to defend the Frontiers, are the Philip, the Pearl, and the Maria.

The River Scaldis or Scheld mentioned by Caeſar is a gallant River, affording plenty of fiſh, and convenience for Navigation and paſſage unto ſeveral noted places: It ariſeth in the Country of Vermandois, paſſing to Cambray, Valencienne, ſo to Tournay or Dornick, Oudenard, Gaunt, Rupelmond and Antwerp, and purſuing its courſe is afterwards divided into two ſtreams, whereof the Southern is called the Hont; the other runs by Bergen ap Zome, and ſo into the Sea between the Iſles of Zealand.

The next day morning we went on our Voyage ſtill up the Scaldis or Schelde, and arrived at Antwerp. Where I had the good fortune to ſee Mr. Hartop; one very well known in all thoſe parts and of high eſteem for his perſonal ſtrength and valour. A Gentleman alſo ſo courteous that he makes it his buſineſs to oblige ſtrangers; he ſhew'd me many curioſities in this City, carrying me with him in his Coach.

The Walls of Antwerp are very large, faced with Brick and freeſtone, having divrs rows of Trees upon them, broad walks, and conveniences for the Coaches, to make their tour upon. The Baſtions are not ſo large as generally they build now a dayes, yet after the modern way. The Ditch is very broad and deep, the Country about it, all Gardens. The Cittadel is a regular fortification of five Baſtions, wherein lies alwayes a Garriſon of Spaniſh Soldiers: upon every curtain there are two mounts or Cavaliers; and between them below, a row of building or lodgings for the Soldiers; the ears of the Baſtions are cut down, and Caſamates made, and Paliſados ſet round upon the Eſplanade; the Walls are lined with excellent Brick and ſtone, nor is there any where a more regular beautifull Fortification of five Baſtions that is finiſhed: it commands the City, the River and the Country: beſides this Cittadel there is another Fort within the Town near the Scheld, to command the River, having eight Guns in it, called St. Laurence Fort.

The Exchange is handſome, ſupported by 36 Pillars every one of a different carving, four ſtreets lead unto it, ſo that ſtanding in the middle we ſee through every one of them. The Meer or Largeſt ſtreet is conſiderable for the water running under it, and for the meeting of Coaches upon it every evening to make their tour through the ſtreets of the City, which are clean and beautiful; at one end of it ſtands a large Braſs Crucifix upon a Pedeſtall of Marble. The Jeſuites Church goeth far beyond any of that bigneſs that I have ſeen out of Italy. The Front is noble, with the Statua of Ignatius Loyola on the top, A great part of the inſide of the Roof was painted by Rubens, and ſome of it by Van Dyke: there be many Excellent peeces of flowers done by Segers a Ieſuite; the Carving and gilding of all the works is exquiſite: The Library of the Colledge is great, & the Books diſpoſed handſomely into four Chambers; the Founder hereof was Godfridus Houtappel, whoſe Monument, together with his Wife and Children are worth the ſeeing, in a Chappel on the South ſide of this Church. In the Church of the Carmelites is a large Silver Statua of our Lady, and models of Cityes in ſtone. Onſar Lieven Vrowen Kerck, or the Church of our bleſſed Lady is the greateſt in the City; and the Steeple one of the faireſt in the World, five hundred foot high: one of their feet is eleven of our inches; ſo as it is 459 of our feet. In this Church there is much Carving, and a great number of Pictures highly eſteemed, among which one piece is much taken notice of, drawn by Quintin, at firſt a Smith, who made the neat Iron work of the Well before the Weſt door; and afterwards to obtain his Miſtreſs, he proved a famous Painter; his head is ſet up in Stone at the entrance of the Church, with an inſcription and this verſe.

Connubialis amor de Mulcibre fecit Apellem.

I was at the famous Abby of St. Michael, pleaſantly ſeated upon the Scheld; where among other curioſities, I ſaw a glaſs, which repreſented the Pictures of our Saviour and the Virgin Mary, collected from the Putting together of divers other heads: One was repreſented from a Picture wherein were thirteen faces, and another from one of twelve; over the bleſſed Virgin was this Inſcription.

Diva nitet variis expreſſa Maria Figuris.

The Counteſs of Brabants Tombe, who was drowned, and her Statua, as alſo the Monument of Ortelius, are here ſhewn. Macarius Simoneus was then Abbot, the Monks 63. Near unto the Wharf-gate is the Church of St. Walburgis an Engliſh Saint, who contributed much towards the converſion of theſe Countries.

The Town-houſe is fair, the Houſe built for the Eaſtcountry Merchants is very ſtately and large, but runneth now to ruine, in this I ſaw among other curioſities, divers ſtrange Muſical inſtruments, which at preſent are not underſtood, or at leaſt not made uſe of: The Heſſen houſe hath been alſo formerly conſiderable. The water which they make uſe of in Brewing, is brought by an Aqueduct from Herentall about thirty miles diſtant from hence; and is conveyed into the Town by a large Channel, peculiarly walled in by it ſelf where it paſſeth the Ditch; in this City are many good Collections of Pictures both Ancient and Modern, and excellent Miniature or Limning by Gonſol, one fine piece, which I ſaw was peculiarly remarkable, it being the work of 35 ſeveral Maſters.

From Antwerp, I paſſed to Bruſſels by water, changing Boats five times, and going through divers locks, by reaſon that the Country is ſo much higher about Bruſſels, and the water above two hundred foot lower at Antwerp. At Fontaine a league and half from Bruſſels, three Rivers croſs one another: one of them being carried over a bridg. The Piazza of Bruſſels is fair. and oblong in figure upon one of the longeſt ſides ſtands the Townhouſe, and over againſt it the Kings-houſe, where upon a Scaffold hanged with Velvet, Count, Fgmond and Horne were beheaded, the whole Piazza being hanged with Black Cloth. Upon the top of the Town-houſe, ſtand: St. Michael the Patron of the City in Braſs, Count Marſins houſe formerly belonging to the Prince of Orange; hath a fair Court, and overlooks a good part of the City, but a quarter of it is ruined by Lightning. The Thunder bolt or Stone which they affirm to have effected it, is bigger than two Mens heads, and hangs up upon the door at the entrance. The Ieſuites Church is handſome, and in it the fair white Tower is beautifully gilded at the top. The Carmelites Church hath a noble Altar, and near unto the Church is the Statua of a piſſing boy, which is a continual Conduit. The Armory was well furniſhed, as we were informed, before the Governours of the low Countries ſold the Arms; and Caſſel Roderigo the Governour left it very bare. There remains the Armour of Charls the fifth, of Duke Albert, of the Prince of Parma, Erneſtus, and of the Duke d'Alva and of the Duke Alberts horſe who being ſhot ſaved his Maſter, and died the ſame day twelve month; Spears for the hunting the wild Boar, one with two Piſtols; The Armour of Cardinal Infante, and of an Indian King; A Poliſh musket which carrieth ſix hundred paces; Charles the Fifth's Sword for the making the Knights of the Golden Fleece, and Henry the Fourth's Sword ſent to declare war; Good Bucklers for Defence, and ſome well wrought; eſpecially one with the Battel of Pyrrhus and his Elephants; and Banners taken with Francis King of France, at the Battel of Pavia.

Somewhat like Godfrey of Bouillons ſhooting the three Pigeons near the Tower of David, is the ſhot which Infanta Iſabella made, when with an Arrow ſhe killed a Bird, in memory whereof, a Bird pierced with an Arrow is ſet upon the top of a Tower in the Count, which is large; and if the New Buildings and Deſign were continued, it would be very handſome. Before the Court ſtand five braſs Statues. The Park is pleaſant, with Trees ſet in order, and adorned with Grotto's, Fountains, and Water-works, which come very near the Italian; one piece ſomewhat imitating Fraſcati, in which all Muſical Inſtruments are imitated, and a perpetual motion attempted: and on the Front of the Buildings ſtand the Caeſars head. But the Eccho is moſt remarkable; which may perfectly be diſtinguiſhed to ten or twelve Replies. The greateſt Church is that of St. Gudula; in which is her Statua, the Devil ſtriving to blow out the Light of her Lanthorn. Two Chappels therein are remarkable; the one built by Leopoldus, very fair on the outſide: the other towards the North, hath been viſited by five Kings, in which is the Hoſt which bled being ſtabbed by the Jews. In the Dominican Church is the Monument of the Duke of Cleve and his Dutcheſs, in Gorinthian braſs. But for a New Church that of the Begennes, or Pious Maids, is very conſiderable; there being Eight hundred of them in this City, who have a particular place allotted to them, where they have built this milk white Church. The Plague was much in this place at that time, three hundred Houſes being ſhut up, and a Garland placed on the doors, in the middle of which † was written IHS. I ſaw the Engliſh Nunnery, and other conſiderable Buildings. And after I had refreſhed my ſelf at the Fiſh-Tavern, which is worth the ſeeing, eſpecially for two Rooms in it, furniſhed from top to bottom with very good Pictures, I returned to Antwerp.

Octob. 4. I travelled through an open Country, and lodged at Molin bruſlè. The Spaniſh Souldiers met us upon the Road this day, ſome of them well mounted and armed, and begged of us, and were well ſatisfied with a ſmall Benevolence. The next day we entred the Country of Liege, and paſſed great Heaths, and on the Sixth, in the morning, arrived at Maeſtreicht.

Trajectum ad Moſam, or Maeſtreicht, is a ſtrong Town, ſeated upon the Maes, four Leagues below Liege. The Out-works are very conſiderable; the Wall is old. Towards the South-eaſt lyeth a Hill, which ariſeth gently, and overlooks part of the Town. Under this Hill is one of the nobleſt Quarries of Stone in the World. To ſecure the Town from the diſadvantage it might receive from this Hill, there was formerly a Fort built upon it, but it hath been long ſince ſlighted; and they have made out an Horn-work within Musket-ſhot of it, and the Baſtion anſwering to it is made very high, to cover the Town. On the other ſide of the River ſtandeth Wicke, very well fortified alſo, and rather ſtronger than Maeſtreicht, into which they might retire if the Town ſhould be taken by Storm, it being united to Maeſtreicht by a handſome Bridge over the Maes, conſiſting of Nine Arches. All about Wicke the Country is flat: there are many Inhabitants in it, and a handſome Glaſs houſe.

The private Houſes of Maeſtreicht are generally covered with a black Slat, or Ardoiſe, otherwiſe not very beautiful. The Town houſe is fair, ſeated in one of the Piazza's, built of white Stone; it hath Nine large Windowes in a row on each ſide, and within is very well painted by Theodorus van der Schuer, who was Painter to the Queen of Sweden. In another Piazza is a Fountain, rows of Trees, and the great Church. This Town was beſieged and taken from the King of Spain by the Confederate States, in the year 1632.

October the Seventh I dined at Gallop, a ſmall place, and came that night to Aken, Aix la Chapelle, or Aquiſgrane, an ancient noble City, the Inhabitants Courteous, and much frequented by reaſon of its hot Baths, of which I ſhall ſpeak more particularly in my Journey from Colen to London. Leaving Aken I travelled towards Juliers or Gulick, but it being late before we arrived, the Gates were ſhut up, ſo as we went only under the Walls, leaving it on our right hand. Near unto Gulick runneth a ſhallow ſwift River, called the Roer. At the Mouth of it, where it falleth into the Maes, is ſeated a conſiderable Town, called Roermonde, through which I paſſed in the year 1673. when Sir Lionel Jenkins and Sir Joſeph Williamſon were ſent Plenipotentiaries to Cologne, in our Journey from Antwerp to that City. We then paſſed the Country of Brabant, by the way of Thornhaut, Weert, Roermonde, and the next Night paſſing by Erkelens, lodged at Caſtro, or Caſter, in Gulickland, where there are ſtill the remains of an old Caſtle, formerly built for the Defence of that part of the Country. Roermonde is ſeated upon a riſing Hill, near the River Roer, hath a Colledge of Jeſuits in it, a handſome Piazza, and an old Abby with divers Monuments very ancient, founded by Gerard Earl of Guelderland. From this Town their Excellencies were ſaluted with the Guns from their Walls, charged with Bullets. The Spaniards in moſt places ſtriving to expreſs the higheſt of their reſpects.

From Gulick I travelled to Cologne, where I arrived October the 10th, 1668.

A JOURNEY FROM COLEN TO VIENNA.

COlen, Coln, or Colonia Agrippina, was anciently the Capital City of the Ubii, a people who were at firſt poſſeſſed of the Countries now called Berg and March, but being over run by the Germans next to them, Agrippa, Lieutenant of Gallia, received them into protection, and placed them upon this ſide of the Roman ſhoar of the Rhine, where they built this place, and called it Oppidum Ubiorum, and the Romans ſeating themſelves here for the defence of the Country, in Honour of Agrippina, daughter to Germanicus, and wife to Claudius, whoſe Birth-place it was, gave it afterwards the Name of Colonia Agrippina. It is at preſent one of the largeſt, if not the greateſt, of any City in Germany, ſecured towards the Land by a high Wall, and two deep Trenches, and towards the Water by a Wall of Stone. The Rhine renders it delightful upon one ſide, and divers rows of Trees encloſe the Town towards the Land. They have ſome Out-works, as Half-moons and Ravelins, but their beſt ſecurity is in the great number of men which they are able to raiſe within themſelves. Many of the Streets are broad, and paved with broad ſtones.

It received the Chriſtian Faith very early, and Maternus was their Biſhop above 1350 years ſince, who ſubſcribed, amongſt others, to the Council of Arles. They have a great number of Churches, and well endowed, which take up a great part of the Town; The Prebends and Canons Houſes having in many places Vineyards, and large Gardens adjoyning. Towards the North end of the Town, the Church of St. Kunibald is conſiderable. The Convent of the Dominicans is fair, and newly built, with a Garden in the Court, and all the Chambers uniform. The Jeſuites Church is well built and ſtored with rich Copes, Altar-pieces, and other Ornaments. In the Church of St. Gereon, a Saint of great name here, martyred about Colen in the time of Maximianus, are about a thouſand Saints heads, and on each ſide of the Altar a large Statua, whereof one is of a Moor; and under the Quire another Church. The Convent of the Carmelites is alſo conſiderable, wherein the Treaty of Peace was held with good accommodation in it, though with no ſucceſs, in the year 1673. In the Church of St. Urſula is her Tomb, and the Tombs of divers of the Eleven thouſand Virgins, martyred by the Huns. Upon the Monument of St. Urſula is this Inſcription; Sepulcrum Sanctae Urſulae indicio Columbae detectum. Upon many of the Tombs which are old are Croſſes and Lamps. Many Bones and Heads of the Martyrs are alſo kept in this Church. The Cathedral is dedicated to St. Peter, and is very large, but not finiſhed. The Body of the Church hath four rows of Pillars within it. The Quire is handſome and very high: behind it are believed to be the Tombs of the three Wiſe men which came from the Eaſt to worſhip our Saviour, or the Kings of Arabia, of whom it was propheſied that they ſhould bring Gifts, commonly called the three Kings of Colen: Melchior, who offered Gold, Gaſpar Frankincenſe, and Balthaſar Myrrhe. Their Bodies, as the account goeth, were firſt removed to Conſtantinople by Helena the Mother of Conſtantine the Great; then to Milan by Euſtorfius Biſhop thereof; and they have now reſted at Colen for above five hundred years, being tranſlated from Milan hither by Rainoldus Biſhop of Colen, in the year 1164. There are alſo divers other Monuments of Biſhops, and Noble Perſons in Braſs and Stone, and one in the ſhape of a Caſtle with ſix Towers. The Canons of this Church are all Noblemen; among whom the Duke of Newburg, who ordinarily reſides at Duſſeldorff, about twenty Engliſh miles below this City, upon the Rhine, hath two Sons. In a Church dedicated to all the Apoſtles, they ſhew a Tomb, which being opened by Thieves, intending to plunder it, the woman buried in it aroſe up and went home, and lived with her Husband divers years after. In one of the Streets is a Tower, or rather one Tower upon another, which ſeems to be ancient, now made a Priſon. Upon another Ruine alſo in the Streets lies a Tombemade out of one Stone; of which ſort of Tombs there are many in this City and other places; but the greateſt number of them I ever ſaw was at Arles in Provence.

The Senate Houſe is Noble, having a fair Tower upon it, from whence there is a good proſpect over the City. Upon the Front of the Senate Houſe is a Man in Baſſo relievo, fighting with a Lyon, who, as it was related to me, was formerly one of the Conſuls, who having had a conteſt with ſome Clergy-men about the Government of the City, on a ſuddain they cauſed a Lyon to be let in upon him: upon which occaſion he behaved himſelf ſo well, as he delivered himſelf, and ſlew the Lyon.

The Elector or Archbiſhop of Colen hath two Palaces in the City, but by agreement between him and the Town, he is not to ſtay here above three days together. Only this preſent Archbiſhop, upon the coming down of the Imperial Forces, and his loſs of Bonna, took Sanctuary here in the Convent of St. Pantaleon, where he continued a great while.

The City is Imperial and Free, and yet it doth Homage to the Elector, much after this Form: We free Citizens of Colen promiſe to the Archbiſhop, to be faithful and favourable unto him as long as he preſerves us in Right and Honour, and in our ancient Priviledges, Us, our Wives, our Children, and our City of Colen. Moſt of the City are of the Roman Church, and the whole Town ſo full of Convents, Churches, Church-men and Reliques, that it is not undeſervedly ſtyled the Rome of Germany. The Lutherans have alſo a Church within the Walls, and the Calviniſts at Mulheim, half a League down the Stream on the other ſide of the Rhine.

Over againſt Colen lieth Dútz, a ſmall Village, inhabited chiefly by Jews. The Veſſels which come out of the Low-Countries hither are long, round bellied, and of great burden. Near to the Wall of the Town, upon the Quay or Key, is a kind of Harbour made for them, into which they may be drawn, and eſcape the Injuries they would otherwiſe ſuffer by the Ice in Winter.

Beſides the rich Clergy, there are many wealthy Citizens and Merchants here, and they maintain a Traffick and Correſpondence with divers Countries, eſpecially by the convenience of the Rhine. They ſpeak not the beſt High-dutch; but Latin and French are underſtood by many: Divers Hoſts in Inns ſpeak Latin, and the Servants French; which proves a good help unto Travellers. It was made an Univerſity about the year 1388. Beſides the General Hoſpitals for young and old perſons, there are two for the Sick, and well accommodated. They have a Pharmacopaea Colonienſis, or a Diſpenſatory proper to the place, whereby Apothecaries compound their Medicines. I was acquainted with one of the beſt, Mr. Elburg, a knowing and obliging perſon, who was his Majeſties Apothecary while he reſided at Colen, and whom my honoured Friend Sir Alexander Fraſer, his Majeſties chief Phyſician, made uſe of, who lived in great reputation in this City.

Two hundred years ſince Aeneas Sylvius left an high expreſſion concerning this place, Coloniâ quae de conjuge Claudii matre Neronis, Agrippina dicta eſt, & trium Magorum oſſibus illuſtrata, nihil magnificentius, nihil ornatius, totâ Europâ reperias: which though, if ſtrictly conſtrued, will hardly be admitted by any who hath beheld Paris, Naples, Venice, &c. yet doth it declare the nobleneſs of this City, even in former times.

We left Colen about four a Clock in the Afternoon, being drawn up the Stream with Horſes, they being made faſt by a very long Rope to the Maſt; we lodged in a ſmall Village, having had a good proſpect of Colen all this Evening from off the water. Near to this Place Julius Caeſar made his Bridge over the Rhine. The next day we came to Bon, the Seat of the preſent Archbiſhop and Elector of Colen, Maximilianus Henricus, Duke of Bavaria, Biſhop of Hildiſheim and Liege, and Arch-Chancellor of the Empire throughout Italy. This place was formerly called Bonna, or Caſtra Bonnenſia, the wintering place, in the time of Tacitus of the ſixth Legion. It was not long ſince very well fortified by the order of the preſent Archbiſhop, and the direction of Colonel Biſer, a blind man, having Cataracts in both his eyes. The Archbiſhops Palace is very Noble, and there is a Chamber ſeated a good way into the Rhine, to which they paſs thorow a Gallery. This Night we lodged at the foot of the higheſt of the ſeven Hills by the Rhine, which are ſeen at a great diſtance; and upon divers of them ſtand old ruined Caſtles. On the 15th we paſſed by a pleaſant Iſland with a Convent in it: at Remagen is alſo a Convent upon a Rock, fortified with round Towers. In the Evening we lodged near to a Caſtle, ruined four years before by the Electors of Triers and Colen, it belonging at that time to the Duke of Lorrain. On the 16th early in the Morning we came to Andernach, where the plague was very much at that time, and they kept a great many of their ſick in Boats upon the Rhine.

Andernach, of old Antenacum, was one of the Roman Fortreſſes. Upon this River, ſome think that Caligula was born, and that Valentinian was buried hereabouts. Near unto this place are alſo Mineral Springs, well frequented, and much made uſe of. The Town is encompaſſed with an old Wall; and the Gates were ſhut up by reaſon of the Plague: Notwithſtanding, there being divers Friers in our company, ſeveral of the Towns-men ſent out diſhes of Meat to them, which we eat in the Field upon Trees which were laid along near the Town. This day the paſſage by water ſeeming tedious to us, Mr. Mulſtroth, a worthy German Gentleman, with whom I travelled as far as Spire, was willing we ſhould hire a Coach together, which we did, and invited the Friers with whom we had breakfaſted, to go along with us in it to Coblentz. We paſſed through a very pleaſant Country, between rows of Walnut-trees, in ſight of two of the Elector of Triers Houſes, and near to a Houſe belonging to the Count de Wert.

We paſſed the Moſella over a hand ſome Stone-bridge of thirteen Arches, built by Archbiſhop Baldus, or Balduinus, in the year 1344. and coming into the Town, we went to the Dominican Convent, which is pleaſantly ſeated near the Banks of the River Moſella; but the Prior of the Convent, whom we had brought with us, was ſo obliging, that he would not part with us that night; and we were very civilly entertained by him in his Lodgings: He invited alſo ſome of the Convent to bear us company; and after a handſome Supper, with plenty of excellent Moſelle wine, we went to bed between two Feather-beds.

Coblentz, or Confluentia, is a Town of a Triangular Figure, ſeated at the meeting of two great Rivers, the Rhine and the Moſella, which make two ſides thereof, and the third is made by a Line drawn from one River to the other; which is now well fortified after the moſt regular Modern way. The Wall within theſe Works had many old high Towers; and formerly there was another ſtill nearer to the uniting of the Rivers, and conſequently containing a leſs ſpace of ground. This Town is under the Elector and Archbiſhop of Triers, Carolus Caſpar, of the Noble Family of the Leyen, Arch-Chancellour for the Empire in Gallia Belgica, and the Kingdom of Arles. It was given to the Church of Triers when Medoaldus was Archbiſhop above a thouſand years ſince, in the time of King Dagobert. The Situation is pleaſant and convenient, and lieth over againſt the Caſtle of Hermanſtein, or Ehrenbreitſtein, that is, The Stone of far extended Honour; at the foot of which Caſtle, upon the ſhoar of the Rhine, under a great Rock, ſtands a very Noble Palace of the Electors, two large Wings and the Front with five Pavilions ſtanding towards the River, and from it a long Bridge of Boats over the Rhine to Coblentz: when any great Veſſel paſſeth by, they let ſlip three Boats, whereby the paſſage lieth open, and make them faſt again afterwards. In the German wars the Spaniards thruſt in a Garriſon into this Town; which was afterwards beaten out by the Rhinegrave for the King of Sweden; and the ſtrong Caſtle of Ethrenbrietſtein being put into the hands of the French, the Emperours Forces ſeized upon the Archbiſhop of Triers, who then was Philippus Chriſtophorus, and carried him away to Vienna.

In places where the Rhine runneth through a low Country and a fat Soyl, it waſheth away the Banks: to ſecure which, in divers places they have made great Works of Wood, and alſo to ſecure Veſſels from the danger of the Ice. And I remember, riding near the Banks of the River Loire in France, I obſerved them in ſome places to be handſomly defended for a long way together with Freeſtone.

Near unto Coblentz, upon a Hill, is a Convent of Carthuſians. October the 17th we went up the Rhine to Boppart, a walled Town, upon the weſtern bank, where Van Trump was at that time: It is a very old Town, one of the Roman Fortreſſes againſt the Germans, called anciently Bodobriga; ſome would have it called Bopport from Beauport, Fair-haven, or Bonport, a good convenient place for Veſſels to retire into, or to ride in.

On the 18th we dined at St. Guer, a pleaſant Town belonging to the Landtgrave of Heſſe, who hath a Caſtle here. Coming on ſhoar we met with an odd cuſtome: for upon the Wall ſide there is faſtned a Collar of Braſs at preſent, but was formerly of Lead, and given by Charles the Fifth; into this moſt Strangers that come put their Necks, at which time they ask them, Whether they will be ſprinkled with water, or drink wine? and if they chooſe the latter, they give an entertainment of wine to the Company. The Queen of Sweden paſſing by this place, gave a great Silver Cup, out of which they now drink at this Ceremony. We lodged this night at Weſel, a Town ſituated between a high Hill and the River, belonging to the Archbiſhop of Triers. Here in the Market-place they ſhew us the print of St. Huberts Horſes foot in a Free-ſtone.

On the 19th we came to Baccharach, or ad Bacchi aras, belonging to the Elector Palatine; a place famous for Excellent Wines. We paſſed by an old Caſtle ſeated upon a Rock in the middle of the Rhine, being of an irregular figure, called Pfalts, where formerly the Prince Palatines of the Rhine were born, the Princeſſes being ſent hither to be brought to Bed. We came this night to Dreickſhauſen; the next day we went by a dangerous Paſſage, there being many Rocks under water, which cauſe the River to run very rapid and unequally. A little above this we came to a round Tower, on a Rock in the Rhine, called the Mouſe-tower, built by Hatto Archbiſhop of Mentz, in the year 900. who, as the Story goeth, in a time of great Scarcity, pretending to relieve the poor who wanted bread, invited them together into a Barn, where he burnt them all, ſaying, They were like the Rats and Mice which would devour the Corn. After which he was ſo perſecuted with Rats and Mice, that to avoid them he cauſed this Tower to be built in the middle of the Rhine, which did not avail him, for they followed him thither alſo, and at laſt devoured him. A little above this lieth Bing upon the Weſtern ſhoar; a conſiderable Town, belonging to the Elector of Mentz: here our Boat ſtayed to pay Cuſtome, as it had done alſo at Bonna, Liutz, Hammerſtein, Andernach, Coblentz, Lodeſheim, Bopport, St. Gower, Cub, and Baccharach. For the trade of the Rhine being great, Princes and Lords, who have Towns upon it, make uſe of that advantage, which, though it abateth the gains of the Merchant, brings conſiderable profit to themſelves.

Bing, or Bingium, was an old Roman Fortreſs upon the Rhine, where the River Navus or Naw entreth into it; over which latter there is a handſome Stone-bridge: In this Town were many of the Duke of Lorrain's Army ſick and wounded, who three weeks before had maintained a fight againſt the Forces of the Elector Palatine, near this place. From Bing we continued our Journey to Mentz: at Rudeſheim in Rhinegaw, a place noted for good Wine, they ſhewed us a Boy, whoſe hair was thick and woolly, like to the African-Moors, but of a fine white colour, which being ſomewhat an odd ſight, I took away ſome of his hair with me.

Mentz, Moguntia, Moguntiacum, and by the French Mayence, is ſeated over againſt the Confluence of the River Main, with the Rhine, or rather a little below it; in a fertile Country, abounding in all Proviſions and good Wine; it lieth at length, and is moſt extended towards the River; and that part excelleth the other towards the Land, which is not ſo populous or well-built: It is a ſtrong place, and well guarded; it hath many Churches and Monaſteries, and ſome fair Buildings, eſpecially thoſe of publick concern, as the Palace of the Elector, and others: But the narrowneſs of the Streets, and many old Houſes, take away much from the beauty of the City. It is an Univerſity, begun about the year 1486. or as others will have it 1461. This place alſo challengeth the Invention of Printing, or at leaſt the firſt promotion or perfection thereof: And the Territory about it is famous for the deſtruction of the Roman Legions under Varus, by the Germans. Guſtaphus Adolphus, King of Sweden, was wonderfully pleaſed upon the taking of this City, 1631. entring into it in State upon the 14th of December, it being his Birth-day, which began the 38th year of his life, and kept his Court and Chriſtmas here; where at one time there were with him ſix chief Princes of the Empire, twelve Ambaſſadours of Kings, States, Electors, and Princes; beſides Dukes and Lords, and the Martial men of his own Army. At the taking of the Town, they found great ſtore of Ordnance and Powder; and the City redeemed it ſelf from Pillage by giving the King a Ranſome of Eighty thouſand Dollars; and the Clergy and Jews gave Two and twenty thouſand more, of which the Jews paid Eighteen thouſand; Archbiſhop Wambold ſaving himſelf upon the Rhine, and retiring to Colen. The King cauſed alſo two great Bridges to be made, one over the Main, founded upon fifteen great flat bottom'd Boats, the reſt being built upon great Piles of Wood: Another over the Rhine ſupported by ſixty one great flat Boats, each lying the diſtance of an Arch from one another; and many Families of people living ſometimes in the Boats under the Bridge. The Bridge over the Main is taken away; but that over the Rhine is ſtill continued: Upon which I ſaw the preſent Elector paſſing in his Coach; a Perſon of great Gravity, of a middle Stature, having long grey Hair, and was very Princely attended; his Name Joannes Philippus of the Noble Family of Schoenburg, Elector and Archbiſhop of Mentz Biſhop of Wurtzburg, and Biſhop of Worms, Arch-Chancellour of the Empire for all Germany; the firſt of the Electoral Colledge; in all publick Conventions he ſits at the right hand of the Emperour, and is a Succeſſour of the famous Boniface, an Engliſh man, Biſhop of Mentz, who ſo much promoted the Chriſtian Religion in theſe parts. But though his Dignity and Place excelleth the two other Eccleſiaſtical Electors of Colen and Triers, yet his Territories come ſhort; and they lye not together, but ſcatteringly with thoſe of the Palatinate, Spier, Franckfort, and divers places in Franconia. But of late he hath much encreaſed his Power, by ſeizing the great City of Erfurdt in Turingia, which he hath ſince much beautified and ſtrengthned by a Citadel built upon St. Peters hill.

From Mentz I paſſed by water up the River Main, to Franckfort, a free City of the Empire, called Trajectum Franconum, a Paſſage or Ford of the Franks, as ſerving them for a Retreat, when they entred or returned from Gaul; at preſent Franckford upon the Main, to difference it from Franckford upon the River Oder, which is an Univerſity: It is a large Town, divided into two parts by the River; the leſſer called Saxonhauſen, or Saxonhouſes, united to the other by a Stone-bridge over the Main, of twelve or thirteen Arches. It is a place of good Trade, and well ſeated for it, as having the advantage of the River Main, which paſſeth by Bamberg, Schweinfurt, Wurtzburg, Guemund, or Gaudia mundi; and alſo the Tauber, and other Rivers running into it, affordeth conveniency for Commerce with the remoter parts of Franconia; and the Main running into the Rhine, makes a large communication both up and down that Stream.

But this place is moſt remarkable for the Election of the Emperour, which, by the Laws of the Golden Bull, ſhould be in this City, as alſo for two great Marts or Fairs kept in March and September; at which times there is an extraordinary concourſe of people from remote parts, in order to buying and ſelling of ſeveral Commodities, eſpecially for Books, as well printed here as in other parts, whereof they afford two Catalogues every year, and have no ſmall dealings that way, by the Factors of the Germans, Hollanders, Italians, French, and Engliſh: although at other times their trading in Books ſeems not great; for when I was there out of the time of the Mart, the Stationers Shops being ſhut up, made but a dull ſhow. Here are alſo a great number of good Horſes bought and ſold: and on the North-ſide of the City there is a ſpacious place for a Horſe-Fair. The City is ſtrong and well fortified; and moſt part of the Town are Lutherans. In the German wars, the King of Sweden having taken Hanaw, ſent a Meſſenger to Franckfort to know whether the City would peaceably and ſpeedily ſet open their Gates unto him, and accept fairly of a Garriſon, or ſtand to the hazard of a Siege: And although they were unwilling to yield, yet for fear of the worſt, they conſented, That the King ſhould have free paſſage for his Army through the City; and that for the better aſſurance of it, ſix hundred of his men ſhould be received for a Garriſon into Saxonhauſen; and alſo that the Magiſtrates and People ſhould take an Oath unto his Majeſty. So that upon the 17th of November, 1631. the King's Army paſſed through Saxonhauſen over the Bridge, quite through the Town. Colonel Vitzthumb was left Governour in Saxonhauſen; and the King himſelf rode bare-headed through the Streets: and by his obliging behaviour did generally win the affections of the beholders; and three days after returned thither again with the Landtgrave of Heſſen-Caſſell, and the Landtgrave of Heſſen-Darmſtadt, where they met the Seventeen Earls of the Wetteraw, or Veteravia, and were feaſted in the ſame room where the Emperours at their Coronation uſe to be entertained.

In Saxonhauſen there is a Houſe anciently belonging unto the Knights of the Teutonick Order, which hath the priviledge of a Sanctuary for Man-ſlayers and Bankrupts; but it is a ſecurity but for fourteen days. Upon this ſide there is the largeſt portion of Land belonging to Franckfort; on the other ſide very little.

This being a trading place, it is no wonder that there are ſo many Jews in it; for a diſtinction they wear great Ruffs, their Sons Bonnets, and their Wives a peculiar dreſs of their Head.

The Collegiate Church of St. Bartholomew, where many of the Emperours have been crowned, is large, hath a high Steeple, and is built of a red ſtone. There are divers handſome Fountains in the Town, and good Houſes; in one of the beſt of which liveth Monſieur Pierre Neufville, a great Merchant, and a civil worthy perſon, well known in moſt places of Commerce; who obliged me with Letters to Venice, and other places.

From Franckfort I continued my Journey through the Bergſtraes, paſſing by Darmſtadt, which belongs to one of the Brothers of the Houſe of Heſſen, commonly known by the name of the Landtgrave of Heſſen Darmſtadt; and afterwards through a fruitful plain Country, in the ſight of Hills, and ſometimes near them: the whole Country planted with Wallnut-trees, Vines, Corn, and in ſome places with Tobacco; till I arrived at Heidelberg.

In coming into this Town we paſſed over the River Neccar, Nicer, or Necarus, upon a Bridge covered over from one end to another, with a large Roof of Wood: in the ſame manner is the long Bridge covered at the entrance of the City of Aleſſandria della paglia in Italy.

The River Neccar ariſeth near the Sylva Martiana, now Swartzwald, or Black Foreſt, and paſſing through the Territories of the Duke of Wittenberg, runneth into the Rhine at Manheim: This, though none of the greateſt, yet is a conſiderable River of Germany; and hath divers good Towns upon it and near it, as Sultz, Tubingen, Wirtingen, Eſſingen, Stutgard, Canſtat, Lauffen, Hallbrun, Heidelberg.

There being wars at that time when I was in this Country, between the Elector Palatine and the Duke of Lorain: The Elector reſided for the moſt part at Frankendale, to be near his Forces.

Heidelberg is ſeated on the South-ſide of the River Neccar, between it and a ridge of high Hills, ſo as it cannot well admit of a modern Fortification, or hope to be extraordinary ſtrong, as being over-looked by the adjacent Mountains: It lieth moſt at length from Eaſt to Weſt: It hath been an Univerſity ſince the year 1346. at which time it was begun by Rupertus, Count Palatine, and at preſent is much frequented. In the great Church was kept the famous Library, which, after that the Spaniards had taken this Town 1620. was carried to Rome, and added to the Vatican, where I ſaw it in the year 1664. being placed upon one ſide of a very long Gallery belonging to the Vatican Library; and the Duke of Urbin's Library placed on the otherſide, over-againſt it: both which made a notable addition to the Papal Library. In this Church and the Church alſo of St. Peter, are divers Monuments of Princes of the Palatine Family, and of Learned and Famous Men. The French have a Church here, and the preſent Elector is of the Order of the Holy Ghoſt; and his Son a Mareſchal of France: and good French and High-dutch are both generally ſpoken here. The Lutherans have alſo a Church in this Town, by the favour of the preſent Elector; although he himſelf be a Calviniſt: and to expreſs his generous kindneſs the higher in this point, the firſt Stone was laid by himſelf and his Son; and it is called the Church of Providence, according to the Elector's Motto, Dominus Providebit.

Upon the Town-houſe is a Clock with divers Motions, and when the Clock ſtrikes, the figure of an Old man pulls off his hat, a Cock crows, and ſhakes his wings, Souldiers fight with one another, and the like. The Prince's Stables for above a hundred Horſes are ſeated upon the River very conveniently, but were fairer formerly, above half thereof having been ruined by the Imperialiſts; as alſo divers of the Statues on the outſide of the Caſtle, which is ſeated high above the Town.

The preſent Elector is Carolus Ludovicus, Son to the King of Bohemia, Frederick the Fifth; he was born in the year 1617. and paſſed his Youth an Exile from his Fathers Kingdom and Electorate: and at the pacification at Prague 1635. he was excluded from any reſtitution to be made to him. But at length, in the Treaty of Munſter 1648. he was reſtored to the lower Palatinate, and 1652. returned to the poſſeſſion of his Fortunes: a highly accompliſhed Prince, much honoured and beloved by his Subjects. In the year 1650. he married Charlotta, Daughter to William the Fifth, Landgrave, and to the famous Amelia Elizabeth, Landgraveſs of Haſſia; by whom he had the Chur Prince, or Electoral Prince Charles, and a Daughter, the Princeſs Charlotta Elizabetha; but upon ſome diſcontent the Princeſs Electreſs ſince returned to her own Friends and Country. This Elector is alſo Knight of the moſt Noble Order of the Garter, Great Treaſurer of the Empire, and together with the Elector of Saxony, Vicar of the Empire.

In his Palace or Caſtle at Heidelberg, are divers things remarkable; a very great Tower to be equalled by very few; within which is a Theatre for Comedies. This was formerly called Trutzkaiſar, or the Tower that bad Defiance, or threatned the Emperor; but ſince the Reſtauration of the Elector, there are ſome Works drawn about it in the figure of a Star, and the old diſobliging Name is by Proclamation forbidden to be continued, and it is at preſent called the Sternſchanz, or the Star-fort. By it is a handſome Garden; in the Ditch whereof there was then kept a great Bear, and a very large Wolf. The Grotto's and Water-works are very handſome: they were alſo making divers others, having the advantage of the ſide of the Hill to bring down the water, and to make Grots and Caves in the Rock. Amongſt other Fountains, that of the Lions head with a Frog in his Ear, is taken notice of. The Cellars are very large and cool, filled with Veſſels of no ordinary ſize; yet inconſiderable, if compared to the great Tun kept in a great Building joyning to the Cellars; it was built by this preſent Elector's Order, 1664. and goeth far beyond any made before: It contains 204 Faiders and odd meaſure, or about two hundred Tuns: inſtead of Hoops it is built with large knee Timber, like the ribs of a Ship, which are painted and carved, and have divers Inſcriptions upon them, and ſupported by carved Pediſtals. Upon one ſide of it is a handſome Staircaſe to aſcend to the top of the Veſſel; upon the top of which is a Gallery ſet round with Balliſters, three and forty ſteps high from the ground.

About an Engliſh mile from Heidelberg, between the Hills, is a ſolitary place, where three large Streams or Springs guſh out of the Mountain, and preſently fill five Ponds, have three handſome Caſcates or Falls, and after run into the Plain, and are ſtrong enough in a ſmall ſpace to turn four Mills; this is called Wolfsbrun, or the Wolfs Fountain, from a Princeſs who formerly retired into a Cave in this deſart place, and was here devoured by a Wolf.

While I was at Heidelberg, two Engliſh men came kindly to me, Mr. Villers, and Timothy Middleton, belonging to Lobensfeldt Cloiſter, a Convent formerly of the Jeſuits, but ſince let out to about an hundred Engliſh, who left their Country 1661. came up the Rhine, and by the permiſſion of the Elector, ſetled themſelves a few miles from hence, living altogether, men, women, and children, in one Houſe; and having a community of many things: They are of a peculiar Religion, calling themſelves Chriſtian Jews; and one Mr. Poole, formerly living at Norwich, is their Head. They cut not their Beards, and obſerve many other Ceremonies and Duties, which they either think themſelves obliged to from ſome Expreſſions in the Old Teſtament, or from ſome New Expoſition of their Leaders.

From Heidelberg I made an excurſion, and had a ſight of Spire, ſeated in a Plain, on the Weſt-ſide of the Rhine; a place of Antiquity, conceived to be Urbs Nemetum of old; a large place and populous. The King of Sweden in the German wars demoliſhed the Works about it, not willing to ſpare ſo great a number of his Souldiers as was required to Garriſon it, and make it good. It is an Epiſcopal See under the Archbiſhop of Mentz: there are many fair Houſes in it, divers Churches, and a fair Cathedral, with four large Towers. The Romaniſts, the Lutherans, and Calviniſts preach in it at ſeveral hours. It is the more populous, and filled with people of good quality, by reaſon of the concourſe of perſons from other parts of Germany, for the deciſion of Law Suits: For here the Imperial Chamber is held, and many differences which ariſe in the Empire are determined, and the Electors and other Princes, in ſome tryals at Law, may be called hither. It is a ſettled Court, which Maximilian the Firſt, for the better eaſe of all perſons, placed firſt at Worms, and not long after it was fixed at Spire, from whence it cannot be now removed, but by the conſent of all the Eſtates. Things Cognoſcible in this Court are determined by an Imperial Judge, and ſealed with the Emperours Arms, ſo that there lieth no appeal unto the Emperour.

Another day I went to Manheim, formerly a Village, ſeated at the Confluence of the Rhine and Neccar; but walled about by the Elector Frederick the Fourth, and ſince is much encreaſed; all the Streets being large and uniform, and a Noble Citadel built; within which, overagainſt the Gate, the Elector deſigns a Palace, the Model of which I ſaw: and at preſent, on the right hand, there are three Pavilions of Lodgings: in one of which lodgeth the Elector Palatine; in another the Prince his Son; and in the third the Princeſs his Daughter: behind theſe there is a handſome Garden and Lodgings for Degen Felderen, the Churfurſts Miſtreſs. Here are ſome good Pictures, as a Head of Hans Holben, and a Landskip with the Story of the Union of the Swiſſers. The Bridge over the Moat of the Citadel into the Town, is alſo remarkable, as having ſix Draw-bridges upon it, three great ones, and three ſmall ones on the ſide. There are Paliſado's all along the bottom, in the middle of the Ditch, and without upon the Eſplanade.

From Heidelberg I travelled to Nurnberg in the Company of Captain Wagenſeyl, who had been in the Poliſh and Hungarian wars, and was employed a little before in blowing up the Caſtle of Launſteyn, belonging to the Elector Palatine, to prevent its ſurpriſal by the Duke of Lorrain. He was then employed to raiſe a Company at Nurnberg, for the Service of the Elector Palatine. I had a good advantage in my Journey by his Company; for he travelled with Authority, and was a generous, knowing, and courteous perſon.

The firſt day we travelled near to the Neccar, in ſtony and rocky way; and it being dark before we came to Moſpach, the Peaſants conducted us from Village to Village with bundles of lighted Straw.

The next day we came to Poxberg, where there is an old Caſtle, and in the afternoon reached Morkenthal, or Mergetheim, the Seat of the Grand Maſter of the Herrhn Deutchern, or the Teutonick Order. The Town is wellbuilt, hath a fair Piazza, with a large Fountain in it, and a Statue of one of the Grand Maſters, with a long Corridore from his Palace. This Order hath been of great Fame, and hath had large Poſſeſſions, as may be ſeen in the exact Account of the Teutonick Knights of Pruſſia, made out from the beſt Authors, by my worthy honoured Friend Mr. Aſhmole, in his Noble Deſcription of the Order of the Garter; and as Lewis du May, Counſellor unto the Duke of Wirtenberg, hath ſet it down. For the Knights Templars and of St. John, having fought proſperouſly againſt the Infidels, raiſed an Emulation in ſome German Gentlemen, who waited upon the Emperour Frederick the Firſt, in his Expedition to the Holy Land, to take the Croiſado. And becauſe they were inſtalled in the Church and Hoſpital of St. Mary at Jeruſalem, they were called Marianites. Their Order differed nothing from thoſe above-mentioned, but in the form and colour of their Croſs, and was approved by Pope Celeſtin the Third. Afterwards when Jeruſalem was taken by Saladin, thoſe Knights betook themſelves to Ptolemais, from whence the Emperour Frederick the Second, ſent them back into Germany, and employed them againſt the Pruſſians and Livonians, who at that time were ſtill Pagans. But by the Valour and Piety of thoſe Knights, their Souls were brought into ſubjection to Chriſt, and their Bodies to the Order which began that war in the year 1220. a little while after theſe Knights found themſelves Maſters of a Country of very large Extent, which obeyed the Order, till the year 1525. at which time Sigiſmond, King of Poland, gave the inveſtiture of Pruſſia unto Albert Marquiſs of Brandenburg. In the year 1563. the Great Maſter became Secular again, and took a part of the Lands ſubject to the Order, with the name of Duke of Curland. And Livonia having been the Subject and Theatre of many wars between the Polanders, Muſcovites, and Swedes; theſe laſt did at length become Maſters of it, and have it in poſſeſſion ſtill. So that there is no more remaining of the Teutonick Order, but ſome Commanderies ſcattered here and there in Germany. And the Great Maſter hath his Seat and Reſidence at Mergenthal.

They wear on a white Mantle a plain black Croſs. The Dignity of Grand Maſter is generally held by ſome Great and Honorable Perſon; and in the Great Aſſembly he taketh place of all Biſhops. The preſent is the Baron of Amring; and the Grand Maſter before him was Leopold William, only Brother to the Emperor Ferdinand the Third.

From hence we travelled to Lauterbach, near which we paſſed through a Wood, and found a Noble Church upon the top of a high Hill, which being much frequented by Pilgrims, they have made handſome ſtone Stairs from the bottom to the top: then to Rotenburg, and lodged at Burgperner, and the next day by Schantzbach we came to Nurenberg. Rotenburg is an Imperial City, which ſome have likened unto Jeruſalem for its Situation upon hilly places, and many Turrets in it. It is Situated near the head of the River Tauber, which may be accounted the ſecond River of Franconia, paſſing by Rottingen, Landen, and Werthaim, where it runneth into the Main.

Nurenberg is the faireſt City that I ſaw in Germany; the Houſes moſt of them of Free-ſtone, very high; and divers of them painted on the outſide, and adorned with gilded Balls on the top; many are of ſix or ſeven Stories high. Der Herr Peller hath one of the faireſt. The City is very populous and full of Trade, although it ſtands in a barren Country, and wants a Navigable River. The three beſt Churches are the Hoſpital Church, lately built very fair; St. Laurence, which is very large, with two high Steeples in the Front; and St. Sebald the beſt of the three. The Body of St. Sebald being laid upon a Cart drawn with Oxen, in that place where the Oxen ſtood ſtill, they buried the Body, and erected this Church in his memory. In this Church is a Crucifix of Wood, very well carved, and eſteemed at a high rate. The Crucifix without the Church is very great, and of a black colour: and ſome fancy that the Raht Herrn, or Magiſtrates of the Town, have repoſited a Treaſure within it. The Pulpit is well carved and gilded, and the whole Church ſo ſtately, that it may paſs in the firſt rank of Lutheran Churches; that Religion being here practiſed in its ſplendour. The Prieſt every morning reads the Scripture to the people for half an hour, or preacheth a Sermon. The Town-houſe is well worth the ſeeing: In it the Hall is ſpacious, as alſo the Chambers, and furniſhed with good Pictures, and Stones well gilded and painted with white and gold, green and gold, dark coloured and gold, and the like. There is one Picture of moſt of the Great Perſons in Germany entertained in the Great Hall; another of the three Brothers of Saxony; one of an Elephant as big as the life; a piece of St. John and St. Mark, and another of St. Peter and St. Paul, both by Albert Durer: but the moſt rare piece is that of Adam and Eve, by the ſame Maſter, with this Inſcription: Albertus Durer Almang faciebat poſt Virginis partum, 1507. Another excellent one is that of St. Luke drawing the Picture of our Saviour and the bleſſed Virgin. Over the Gate at the entrance of the Shambles is a large Oxe carved in Wood, and painted over, with this Inſcription:

Omnia habent ortus ſuaque incrementa, ſed ecce Quem cernis, nunquam Bos fuit hic, Vitulus.

The Caſtle ſtandeth upon a high Hill, from whence the Town makes a handſome ſhow: In it are obſervable a very deep well, the Emperors Chappel, his Picture, and the Pictures of the Electors; good Night pieces; and one of a man behind a white Curtain tranſparent, very well expreſſed. The Armour of Hebbele van Gailinghen the great Sorcerer is here ſhown; and in the Wall of the Caſtle the marks of his Horſes feet, when he leaped from thence over the Town ditch.

The new Fountain was not then finiſhed; but the Statua's in Braſs made for it were excellent; the Sea-Horſes large, the Sea-Nymphs much bigger than the life; and Neptune, who was to ſtand on the top, is above three yards and a half high. When I came firſt into this place, I was not a little ſurprized to behold the fairneſs of the Houſes, handſome Sreets, different Habits, induſtrious People, and neatneſs in all things, more than I had obſerved in German Cities before; and no place hath greater number of curious Artificers in Steel, Braſs, Ivory, Wood, wherein they work at an extraordinary cheap rate; and there are Officers to inſpect and enquire into the works of Artificers, that they be true, perfect, and without fraud: they make ſtrong and handſome Clockwork. The King of Poland preſented the Grand Signior with a very noble Clock, who took ſo much delight in it, that when it required ſome mending (the Turks being ignorant in Clock-work) he ſent it from Adrianople as far as Nurenburg, to be ſet in order again.

Guſtavus Adolphus, King of Sweden, was more magnificently received and entertained in this City, than in any other of Germany; which ſo incenſed Wallenſteyn, that he afterwards encamped before their Town, and did great ſpoil upon their Territories: But the King of Sweden marched thither towards their Relief, and from thence towards Lutzen, where in a bloody Battel he loſt his life.

The River Pegnitz runneth through Nurnberg, and hath divers Stone Bridges over it; and below the Town, joyning with the River Rednitz, runneth into the River Main at Bamberg; and the Main runs at laſt into the Rhine. The Reduitz ariſeth at Weiſsenberg, and is not far from the River Altmul, which runneth into the Danube, towards Regenſburg. Upon this convenience, Charles the Great deſigned to make a Communication of paſſage between the Danube and the Rhine; and made a Canale thirty paces broad between the Rednitz and the Altmul, to joyn thoſe Streams for the commodity of Paſſage by Boat; but after he had proceeded two German miles in this work, Boggs, Rains, and his warlike Diverſions made him give over that noble Deſign, whereby there might have been a Commerce by water, from the Low-Countries to Vienna, and even unto the Euxine Sea.

The Roman Lieutenant in Nero's time, had a deſire to unite the River Soane and the Moſella; and to make a paſſage between the Mediterranean and the German Ocean; having been at the mouth of the Moſella by Coblentz, and paſſed from Chaalon upon the ſoft and noble River Araris or Soane unto Lyon, I cannot but think theſe very goodly Streams, and fit for ſuch a purpoſe. The preſent King of France hath a deſign to unite the River Aude with the Garonne, and ſo to have a paſſage by Boat from the Mediterranean Sea by Tholouſe and Bourdeaux, into the Ocean. When I travelled in thoſe parts, viewing the Country well, I thought it would be a difficult work, and ſo it proveth: but the King hath proceeded already very far therein.

About four Leagues from Nurnberg lyeth Altdorff, belonging unto it, made an Univerſity in the year 1623. containing, when I was there, about 150 Scholars. The Phyſick Garden is handſome, and well ſtocked with Plants, to the number of two thouſand. Dr. Hoffman the Botanick and Anatomick Profeſſour, ſhew'd me many of the moſt rare of them; and preſented me with divers. The Anatomy School is not large; yet the only one in thoſe parts of Germany: And they have divers Curioſities preſerved in it, as the Skeleton of a Hart, of a Horſe, of a Man, of a Bear bigger than a Horſe: And ſome Pictures, as one of a Ninivite, and another of Moſes, which they take to be Ancient. Dr. Wagenſeyl, Profeſſour of Law and Hiſtory, brother to Captain Wagenſeyl, who travelled with me from Heidelberg, invited us to lodge at his Houſe, and ſhew'd me his Library, and all his Rarities and Coyns, whereof he hath a good Collection, having lived in moſt places of Europe, and ſpeaks many Languages well; he gave me a piece of the firſt mony that was coined in Germany. In the Univerſity Library I ſaw a fair Hortus Eyſtetenſis, and Youngerman's Collection of Plants by his own hand.

At Nurnberg I met with the Son and the Secretary to the Holland Ambaſſador in Turky, who had travelled hither over-land from Conſtantinople, in their return into the Low-Countries, travelling in Greek Habits.

From hence I went to Newmarkt, a good Town in the upper Palatinate belonging to the Duke of Bavaria, and the next day through Heinmaw, ſubject to the Duke of Newburg, to Regensburg.

Ratiſbona, Regenſburg, Auguſta Tiberii, Colonia Quartanorum, the chief place of the Roman Forces in this limit of the Empire, where the fourth Italick Legion had a conſtant ſtation; was made a Colony by Tiberius in the year, as ſome conceive, of the Paſſion of our Saviour. It was much augmented and adorned by the Emperour Arnulphus, who had a great affection for this place, ſo pleaſantly ſeated, and in a good Country. Here the River Regen runs into the Danube; from whence it was called Regenſburg. There are two Bridges, one of wood below the Town, and another Bridge of ſtone of about fifteen Arches; which is the faireſt ſtone Bridge over the Danube. It is an Imperial City, but not without ſome acknowledgment to the Duke of Bavaria: And although it be ſtrongly fortified, yet it was taken by the Swedes in the German wars. There are many fair buildings in it, both private and publick; and though I am not able to confirm what ſome report, that there as many Churches and Chappels in this City, as there are dayes in the year; yet are there many fair Churches and Convents: As the Cathedral of St. Peter, in the South-ſide of which is the Picture of St. Peter in a ſhip; and on the North aother of the Apoſtles firſt Miſſion. In the Piazza ſtands a neat little Church, the Convent of St. Paul, founded by St. Wolfgangus Biſhop of this place, the Convent of St. Emerammus Biſhop of Ratiſbone, a Saint of great Veneration here, though but of little mention or name in other parts. The name of Albertus Magnus, Biſhop of this place, hath alſo added unto the Fame of Regenſburg.

But that which chiefly promoteth its luſtre, is the General Diet or Parliament, which is often held in this City, and is not to be called in any part out of Germany; and the place is not unfit for the accommodation of ſuch a noble Convention, as are the Eſtates of Germany. The Vice-Marſhal taketh care to provide Lodgings reſpectively to their perſons, and ſeeth that all things be brought hither, and at a juſt price; that the Hall or Place of Aſſembly be furniſhed and adorned ſutably to the dignity of the Perſons convened, and hath an eſpecial eye and regard towards the Publick ſafety. By this Convention the great Concerns of Germany are much ſecured, and their peace and quiet Eſtabliſhed. Wherein Germany ſeems to have a better advantage than Italy; For Italy being likewiſe divided into many Dominions and Principalities, hath no Common Diet or Great Council, whereby to proceed for their Publick ſafety: Which makes them often ſo divided in their common Concerns in times of Danger, and when they moſt need a joynt Combination.

I entred the notable River Danubius at this place, which hath already run a good courſe, and paſſed by many fair Towns or Cities; as the large City of Ulme in Swabenland, where it beginneth to be Navigable; as alſo Donawert, Neuburg, and Ingolſtadt, and hath already received the conſiderable River of Licus or Leck, whereby the Commodities of that great Trading City of Augſburg are brought into it. When I firſt embarked at Regenſburg, I thought I might have taken leave of the Danube not far below Vienna, but an opportunity made me ſee this great Stream beyond Belgrade, as I have declared in another Account of my Travels.

The firſt day we paſſed by Thonawſteyn, where there is a Caſtle ſeated upon a high Rock, and came to Pfeter or Vetera Caſtra of old, now but an ordinary place. The Boats upon the Danube are generally painted black and white, are flat bottom'd, and broad at the Head and Stern; there is a Chamber built in the middle; and the Rudder is very large, to be able to command the Boat where the River is rapid, and of a ſwift Courſe.

The next day we came to Straubing, a handſome walled Town, belonging to the Duke of Bavaria; the Streets are ſtreight; and there is a Tower in the Market-place, painted all over with green and gold-colour: There is alſo a Bridge of wood over the Danube. We paſſed by Swartz in the Afternoon, where the Church is ſeated upon a Hill, and is frequented by Pilgrims, and lodged at Deckendorff, where there is another Bridge. Near this Town comes into the Danube that conſiderable River Iſer, or Iſara, having paſſed by divers conſiderable Towns; as Landſhut, Friſing, and München, the Seat of Ferdinandus Maria, Elector of Bavaria, Great Steward of the Empire, and at preſent the firſt of the Secular Electors, and he is to take place immediately after the King of Bohemia, it being ſo concluded on at the Treaty of Munſter, where Maximilian Duke of Bavaria was allowed to hold the Electorſhip, which was confirmed upon him by the Emperour Ferdinand the Second, when he excluded Frederick the Fifth, Count Palatine, and in lieu hereof there was an eighth Electorſhip erected for the Palatinate Family, who alſo, if the Bavarian branch doth fail, are to re-enter into their ancient Electorſhip, and the other newly erected is to be aboliſhed.

Thurſday, November the fifteenth, we came by Wilſhoven to Paſſaw, Patavia, or Boiodurum, a long and noble City in the lower Bavaria, or Bayern, made up of three Towns, Iltſtadt, Paſſaw, and Innſtadt, at the concurrence of the River Inne, the Danube, and the Iltz. As Towns are commonly of great Antiquity which are built at the Confluence of great Rivers, for the Strength of the Situation and convenience of Commerce; ſo is this accounted ancient, as being a Roman Colony, and the place of the Caſtra Batava in old times.

The Church of St. Stephen is ſtately, beſides other fair Churches. The Biſhop, who is Lord of the City, hath a ſtrong Palace upon a Hill; his Revenues are large, and beſides what he poſſeſſeth hereabouts, he hath the tenth part of the notable great Lead-Mine at Bleyberg in Carinthia. This place had lately ſuffered much by fire; but a good part was rebuilt, and very fairly after the Italian manner: So that this may well be reckoned as one of the ten conſiderable Cities, which are upon the Danube, accounting from Ulme unto Belgrade, as Ulme, Ingolſtadt, Ratiſbone, Paſſaw, Lintz, Vienna, Preſburg, Strigonium, Buda, Belgrade; all which from Ratiſbone I had the opportunity to ſee before the end of my Journey. Near to a Wall over againſt the great Church at Paſſaw, which was then repairing, I ſaw a vaſt Head cut in ſtone, the Mouth whereof was two ſpans wide, and the reſt proportionable. The River Iltz, which runneth in here from the North, is conſiderable for the Pearls which are found in it; and the noble River Inne or Oenus, from the South, is the greateſt River which hath yet entred the Danube; having paſſed by Inſbrug, and taken in the River Saltz, upon which ſtands Saltzburg; and ariſing in the Alpes in ſuch a high Country as Tirolis, it runneth in here with a great force, and addeth much unto the ſwiftneſs of the Danube.

Upon the Sixteenth we came to Lintz, the chief City in the higher Auſtria, not very great, but as neat and handſome a City as moſt in Germany. There is in it a very great Market-place, with never a bad Houſe in it, the whole Town built of a very white Free-ſtone; and the Caſtle upon the Hill is of Modern Building, and very large. There is alſo a Bridge over the Danube. The Imperial Forces rendezvouſed here when Solyman came to Vienna. This was alſo beſieged by the Peaſants of Auſtria in the time of Ferdinand the Second; they having got a Body together of Forty thouſand men, and many pieces of Ordnance, but were ſtoutly repulſed after many Aſſaults, and at laſt overcome by Papenheim. Not far below Lintz the River Draun enters the Danube; this cometh from the Gemundner Sea, or Lacus Felicis, paſſing by Lampack, Weltz, and other Towns, and hath a noted Cataract or Fall of Waters.

depiction of two flat boats or barges near a whirlpool in a river; on the left bank is a castle ruin; on the right bank is a church; in the background is a cross on top of a mountain The Whirle-poole in the Danvbe. I. Olivor Fe

THE DESCRIPTION OF VIENNA.

VIENNA, or Wien, which the Turks call Berch, is the chief City of Auſtria, in the Latitude of forty eight Degrees, twenty Minutes, not much differing from the Latitude of Paris. The old Seat of the Dukes of Auſtria, and for a long time of the Emperours of Germany. According to ancient account it ſtandeth in Pannonia ſuperior, the Bounds of Pannonia extending unto Kalemburg, or Mons Cetius, five or ſix miles Weſtward of Vienna; beyond which ſtill Weſtward all that lieth between that Hill and the great River Oenus, or Inne, which runneth into the Danube at Paſſaw, or Caſtra Batava, was anciently called Noricum.

It was an ancient place of Habitation in the time of the Romans, and called Vindobona, as the Learned Petrus Lambecius hath at large declared, where the Claſſis Iſtrica ſometimes lay, and the tenth German Legion had its ſtation; all this ſhoar or ſide of the Danube being famous for the actions of Roman Emperours againſt the Marcomanni and Quadi, who poſſeſſed the Country on the other ſide of the River, and eſpecially for the wars of Marcus Aurelius Antoninus Philoſophus, who notably defeated thoſe Nations, and who, as Aurelius Victor (who was Governour of Sirmium in Pannonia inferior, in the time of Conſtantius) affirmeth, fell ſick at Carnuntum, now Petronel, and died at Vindobona, now Vienna. And to confirm the Antiquity hereof, beſides what Wolfgangus Lazius hath delivered, not many years ſince ſome Antiquities were found. For in the year 1662. when a wall was digged up near the old Palace, the workmen digging ſtill on below the Foundation, found a Stone Trough or Coffin, containing hard Earth and Bones, with a ſmall Gold Coyn, a Glaſs Urn encloſed in a Braſs one, an Iron Knife like a Siceſpita, or Knife uſed about Sacrifices, a little Roll or Scroll of pure Gold, ſhut up with a Golden cover at both ends, wherein was an Inſcription in ſtrange Characters: Not far from the Sepulchral Monument were found a Head in Braſs, a Brazen Patera, Lamps, Lachrymatories, and other Veſſels, and a Copper Coyn of Antoninus Caracalla. The writing in the Golden Scroll, which no man could read, was conceived by the Learned Lambecius to be the old Pannonian Character, and that this might be the Monument of ſome Pannonian Prieſt in the days of Caracalla, who, as good Authors deliver, ſpent ſome time about theſe parts.

It is ſeated on the South-ſide of the Danube, on the ripa Romana, that ſide neareſt to Rome, and many Roman Colonies, according to the uſual poſition of Roman Stations, both upon this River and the Rhine, as may be exemplified in Colen, Bonna, Andarnach, Coblentz, Ments, Wormes, Spier, and Straſburg. And in like manner in the old Roman Stations, on the South or Roman ſide of the Danube, which were in no ſmall number in or near the Auſtrian ſhoar, as Carnuntum, or Petronel, Viſchmund, or Aquinoctium, Eberſdorff, or Ala Nova, Melck, or Nomale, Arlape, or Pechlarne, Lentia, or Lintz; for hereby they better ſecured their Conqueſts, and hindred the incurſions of the Barbarians before them.

It is not ſeated upon the main ſtream of the Danube, but by a branch thereof; for the River running through a low Country; it is divided into ſeveral Streams, and maketh many Iſlands. A ſmall River named Wien, runneth by the Eaſt part of this City, and entreth the Danube below it, which upon floods doth often much hurt, yet ſometimes low and very ſhallow, ſo as I have ſtepped over it; ſome will have it to give the Name unto this City: it divideth part of the Suburbs from it, and hath divers Bridges over it. For that we may have a diſtinct apprehenſion of Vienna, we muſt conſider the City and Suburbs thereof; the Suburbs are very great, and not without fair Houſes, Gardens, Walks, and all Accommodations at large.

The City it ſelf is that walled and fortified part, deſigned not only for convenience of Habitation, but alſo to ſuſtain a Siege, or any Attack from the Turk, and is now ſeparated from the Suburbs by a fair Eſplanade, or open Ground, above a Musket ſhot over. The Houſes near the wall were pulled down ſince the laſt Fortification in the Turkiſh war, when they were in ſome fear that the Turkiſh Forces about Gran and New-heuſel, would move towards them. It is fortified a la moderna, with ten Baſtions towards the Land, and a very deep Ditch, into which they can let the Danube: and with two other Baſtions towards the water, on that part of the River which lieth on the North-ſide of the Town. The Baſtions are large; upon one of them I ſaw Count Souches muſter a good part of the Militia of the City. The Ditch is large and very deep, into which although they can let in the River, yet it is commonly kept dry, leſt they might incommode their deep Cellars. There are two walls, the one old and inward, little conſiderable at preſent, built at firſt with the ranſome of our King Richard the Firſt, who in his return from the Holy War, was detained Priſoner by the Duke of Auſtria upon the 20th of December, 1192. The Auſtrians pretending they had received ſome affront from the King at Joppa, and that he had taken down the Enſign and Banner of Duke Leopold in a contemptuous way. The other outward of a great breadth, made of Earth, and faced with Brick, edged with Freeſtone, ſo well built, as to render this City one of the moſt conſiderable fortified places in Europe. The Eſplanade gently deſcendeth from the Town for three hundred Paces; there are very few Out-works.

It is very uncertain who was the firſt Builder of Vienna, and after it had been long built, it ran to decay again for Four hundred years together, till Henry the Firſt, Duke of Auſtria, in the year 1158. did much repair it; and the ranſome afterwards of King Richard beautified it.

The whole compaſs, taking in the Suburbs, makes a very large Circuit, but the City it ſelf, which is walled in, may be about three miles in Circumference, and is exceeding populous, as full of People, for the bigneſs of the place, as moſt of the great Cities. And I could not but take delight to behold ſo many Nations in it, as Turks, Tartars, Graecians, Tranſylvanians, Sclavonians, Hungarians, Croatians, Spaniards, Italians, French, Germans, Polanders, &c. all in their proper Habits.

The chief Gates are ſix: 1. Stubnthor, or the Stuben Gate towards the Eaſt. 2. Karnterthor, or the Gate of Carinthia towards the South. 3. Burgthor, the Town Gate, or Caſtle Gate. 4. Schottenthor, or the Scotch Gate. 5. Newthor, or the Newgate; theſe two laſt towards the Weſt: And 6. the Gate of the red Tower towards the North, which leadeth unto the Bridge over the Danube: and towards the water ſide, there is alſo a Port by the Emperours palace, and a Cloyſter or Nunnery in the Town hath the Name of a Port called Himmel port, or the Gate of Heaven. The five firſt of theſe Gates are vaulted and arched with long paſſages through the Townwall, and have good Bridges of Wood, with Drawbridges to paſs over the Town ditch: The ſixth is under a Tower, and leads to the Bridges of the Danube: For that River running here in a flat low Country, divideth its ſtreams, ſo that to paſs it quite over, there are at preſent ſeven long Bridges made up of many thouſand Tree laid one by another, after their way of making Bridges. There is alſo a Bridge within the City of Vienna, called the Hochbrug, or High-bridge, which is made by the croſſing of two Streets at equal Angles; the ground of one ſtreet being as high as the tops of the Houſes of the other, ſo that to continue it, they were forced to build a Bridge or Arch in the Lower-ſtreet, to let the upper paſs over it.

The City is fairly built of ſtone, and well paved; many Houſes are of ſix ſtories high; they are ſomewhat flat roofed after the Italian way; the Streets are not narrow, but the compaſs of ground will not admit them to be very broad; and their Buildings are remarkable both above and below ground; their Cellars are very deep. To ſatisfie my curioſity, I went into ſome of them, and found four Cellars one under another; they were arched, and had two pair of Stairs to deſcend into them. Some have an open ſpace in the middle of each roof, to let the Air out of one Cellar into another, and from the loweſt an adit or tube unto the top, to let the Air in and out from the ſtreet, ſomewhat after the manner of the Mines.

Aenaeas Sylvius, about two hundred years ſince, commending the City of Nurnburg, among other expreſſions lets fall this: Cuperent Scotorum Reges tam egregiè quam mediocres Cives Norinbergenſes habitare. The Kings of Scots would be content to dwell ſo well as the middle ſort of Citizens of Nurnburg. I muſt confeſs, when I firſt entred Nurnburg, I was much ſurpriſed to ſee ſuch a noble, large, ſpruce, rich, and well built City: But Vienna doth alſo deſerve the commendation which he affordeth it: Ubi Palatia digna Regibus & Templa quae mirari Italia poſſit. Where there are Palaces fit for Kings and Churches, which Italy may admire. And this being ſpoken ſo long ago, is now better verified of it.

depiction of the Mariensäule or Column of Our Lady in Am Hof, Vienna, featuring Mary and four angels A noble copper Columne Standing before the Ieſuites College in Vienna Iohn Oliuer Fecit

There are alſo many fair Churches, rich Convents, and Conventual Churches; as that of the Carmelites, of the Franciſcans, of the Benedictines, of St. Nicholas; In this Church I could not but take notice of the late Sepulchral Monuments of Count Strozzi and Cardinal Harach. The Dominican Convent is very fair. The Auguſtines have a large Church, in the middle whereof they have built a Chappel after the manner of the Holy Houſe at Loretto; upon the top of which hang the Colours taken from the Turks and Tartars, many of which Enſigns are not ſquare like ours, but made Eſcucheon-wiſe, ſome filled with Circles, wherein are expreſſed half Moons. The Jeſuites Colledges are large, who ſeldome fail of noble Convents, eſpecially in places where they have ſo good footing as in this. The Front of one of their Colledges openeth into a fair Piazza, in the middle whereof ſtands a large and high compoſite Column of Copper upon a Pedeſtal of white ſtone, with four Angels with Eſcucheons, and on the top the bleſſed Virgin; Inſcriptions alſo, in which the Emperour dedicates Auſtria unto her Patronage and Tuition. In another Market-place, where the Town-houſe is, there is a handſome Statua of Juſtice in Copper.

I could not but obſerve the Scotch Church and Cloyſter, which gave alſo the name unto the Scotch Gate of the City, becauſe I ſomewhat wondered how the Scots in old time ſhould be ſo conſiderable in this place, but I found by Information, and the Account of Lazius and Matthaeus Merian in High-dutch, that this Convent was in former times a great Receptacle for the Scots in their long Pilgrimage unto Jeruſalem, founded and endowed by Duke Henry the Firſt, in memory of St. Gregory: and it may ſeem leſs ſtrange that the Scots ſhould have a Convent here, and be numerous in theſe parts in former Ages, if we conſider that St. Colman, one of the Saints of the greateſt Veneration in this Country was a Scotchman, and ſaid to be of the Royal Blood of Scotland, who, in his paſſage to Jeruſalem was murdered by the Baurs or Country people at Stockerau, four German miles from Vienna, and hanged on a Tree, where, as the Story goes, his Body remained uncorrupted for a year and a half, and divers Miracles being affirmed of it, it was taken down, and honourably interred near Stockerau; but by Meginhard Biſhop of Aichſtadt it was tranſlated unto Melk, and afterwards ſent into Hungary, and his Head kept a long time at Stullweiſſenburg, or Alba Regalis, according to the Account which is here given of this Saint.

The Church of St. Peter is alſo conſiderable, not for its Splendour but Antiquity, as being accounted the oldeſt in the City, ſtanding in a place where in old time there ſtood an Altar in honour of Domitian, called Ara Flaviana. In this Church lieth the Body of that famous and learned Perſon Wolfgangus Lazius, with this Epitaph or Inſcription:

Magnifico Nobili Clariſſimo atque ſummâ eruditione ornatiſſimo viro Domino Wolfgango Latzio Vien. Philoſophiae atque Medicinae Doctori & Profeſſori Primario, Celeberrimi Archigymnaſii Viennenſis Rectori & Superintendenti Caeſareo, & ejuſdem Sacrae Caeſareae Majeſt. Ferdinandi Sanctiſſimae memoriae Conſiliario & Hiſtorico Peritiſſimo, defuncto Anno Domini MDLXXXVI.

In the Church of the Capucines Convent, are interred the Emperour Matthias and his Empreſs, and the Empreſs Maria, wife to Ferdinand the Third, who out of their Devotion and Humility, choſe to be buried in a Church of this poor Order. And the Capucines not admitting of Magnificent Monuments in their Churches, as in the Churches of other Orders, no Tombs are erected worthy ſo great an Emperour, and ſuch Empreſſes.

But the Cathedral Church of St. Stephen, containeth divers Monuments of many Princes and Great Perſons, and is a large ſtately Building, but ſomewhat dark by reaſon of the thick painted Glaſs: not covered with Lead, but with Tiles of wood, which is the only blemiſh thereof, yet makes a good ſhow. The Steeple and Spire are very remarkable, as being high, large, ſtrong, and handſome. On the top or Weathercock-place of the Spire ſtands a Croſs under a Star and half Moon, according to the Figure I have elſewhere ſet down, which the People think to be of Gold, or at leaſt very well gilded: and in the time of Thunder and Lightning it looked pale and whitiſh.

They have this Account how theſe came firſt to be ſet up in this place: That when Solyman the Magnificent beſieged Vienna, perceiving the Forces in the City to be obſtinate, he had an intent to batter down the Steeple about their ears: But ſome of the Baſſa's and great Commanders, advertiſing him how unprofitable a buſineſs it would prove, and withal when he took the City, what an honour it would be unto him to have ſuch a Noble Pyramid in his Dominions: He ſent word into the Town, That he was willing to ſpare the Steeple, upon condition that they would ſet up the half Moon and Star (the Turkiſh Arms) upon the top thereof. They returned Anſwer that they would, if he would ſend the ſame unto them, which he did, and they placed it where it ſtandeth.

This Spire hath the largeſt Crockets I have obſerved in any, they being above a yard long, and adorned with foliage work. The Spire of Landſhute in Bavaria, is accounted the higheſt in Germany; that of Straſburg the neateſt and faireſt; and this of Vienna the largeſt and ſtrongeſt. And therefore it is no wonder that when the Ambaſſadours of Boſna formerly came unto Vienna, they ſo often viewed and admired this Fabrick, and plainly ſaid that all the mony in their Country was not ſufficient to have built it.

This Steeple is accounted about four hundred ſixty and five foot high, being about half way up three hundred and thirty eight ſteps. Beſides other Hills, I could ſee Haimburger Hill within two miles of Preſburg, and a great part of Auſtria, which the long Courſe of the Danube rendred very pleaſant and delightful unto the eye. In the Chamber or Room from whence I had this proſpect, there is a Clock, whoſe Caſe being of wood, was in part burnt down by Lightning, and therefore there is water always kept in this place to extinguiſh the fire, and a man continually watcheth in the place where the Bells hand. There is alſo an Inſtrument of wood, or wooden Bells or Hammers, which they make uſe of from Goodfriday till Eaſter-ſunday, all the time that our Saviour was in the Grave, during which time they permit no Bells to ring.

depiction of St Stephen's Cathedral, Vienna The Cathedrall Church of S.t Stephen in Vienna

In this Church of St. Stephen, beſides many Monuments of great Princes and famous Perſons, divers learned men have Sepulchral Inſcriptions; as Johannes Faber Biſhop of Vienna; Johannes Cuſpinianus, and Sebaſtianus Tengnagelius, formerly Library-keeper, Hiſtoriographer, and Counſellor to the Emperour, an extraordinary learned man, and skilful in fifteen Languages, as the Inſcription delivers; as Hebrew, Syriack, Chaldee, Perſian, Arabick, Turkiſh, Aethiopick, Greek, Latin, Italian, French, Spaniſh, German, Belgick, and Engliſh.

The Univerſity of Vienna is alſo remarkable, if we conſsider the Antiquity thereof, the number of Scholars, their courſe of Studies, their accommodations, priviledges and advancements. This is ſaid to have been begun by Albertus the Third, above three hundred years paſt; and their Rules, Orders, and Statutes to have been borrowed from the Univerſity of Paris, and the Students were diſtinguiſhed into four Diviſions or Nations; who, beſides the General, have their particular Rules and Officers, and were comprehended under the Claſſis of Auſtrians, Nations of the Rhine, Hungarians, and Saxons.

In the Auſtrian Diviſion were contained the Friulians, all of the Dioceſe of Trent, all Italy, with the other Provinces beyond the Mountains. 〈…〉 vian the Claſſis of the Rhine were comprehended Sue ••••• , Alſatians, Franconians, Haſſians, d all the Provinces to the South-weſt, as France, Spain, Navarre, Holland, Brabant.

In the third Claſſis, or Natio Hungariae, were contained Hungarians, Bohemians, Polonians, Moravians, Sclavonians, all that ſpeak the Sclavonian Tongue, and alſo Germans.

To the Claſſis, or Natio Saxonum, were reduced Saxons, Weſtphalians, Friſlanders, Turingians, Miſnians, Brandenburgers, Pruſſians. Livonians, Luſatians, Pomeranians, with the Ultramarine Kingdoms of England, Scotland, Ireland, Sweden, Norway, and Denmark.

Theſe Diviſions take up all the Nations of Europe; and indeed there are Students here of many Nations: and upon Contentions and Differences the ſeveral Claſſes will hold unto their own, and take parts, and bandy againſt each other, but will all unite and hold together in differences with Towns-men or Jews, which happen ſometimes unto an high degree.

They follow here the old beaten way of Knowledge: and I met with few who had any good inſight in new Philoſophy; but there are many good Philologers, and are well verſed in Languages, Hiſtory and Antiquity: and there are many Learned Men either educated here, or come from other parts. Some who had taken notice of the Royal Society in London, were very inquiſitive after it; and when I had ſatisfied them in all particulars, were very much pleaſed therewith. If they ſhould fall into the way of Experimental Philoſophy, being very induſtrious, 'tis very probable they may do much therein, and they were ſure to have the countenance of the Emperour. I found them alſo much affected with the Engliſh Society in other parts of Germany. At the Univerſity of Altorff I was much enquired of concerning it: and a Magiſtrate of Nurnburg, who had got a Teleſcope from London, invited me to his Houſe, to practiſe the way of uſing it. Der Herr von Adlerſhelme of Leipſick, a Perſon of great Curioſity, was very inquiſitive after the ſame Society. And of late years the Curioſi of Germany have held Learned Conventions and Correſpondence, and printed their Obſervations at Leipſick. And ſince my Return into England, I have been ſolicited from Caſſovia in Upper Hungary, to ſend the Tranſactions into thoſe Parts.

During my ſtay at Vienna, I went unto a publick Anato my of a Woman that was beheaded: the Lecture laſted ſo long, that the Body was Nineteen days unburied. It was performed by a Learned Phyſician, Dr. Wolfſtregel, who read in Latin to the ſatisfaction of all perſons. What I moſt particularly obſerved therein was this, The Pyramidal Muſcles very plain and large; the Uterus larger than is uſually obſerved; the Cartilago Enſiformis double; the Lungs very black; the Eye was very well ſhown; he produced an artificial Eye of Ivory, and another large one of Paſtboard and Paper, contrived and made by himſelf; the Muſcles of the Pharynx, Larynx, Os Hyoides, and the Tongue, after their diſſection, he reduced very handſomely into their proper places again, to ſhew their natural ſituation and poſition. The Anatomy-Theatre was of capacity to receive above an hundred perſons; and according to the cuſtome of other places, to avoid impertinent Spectators, a piece of Mony was given for admiſſion. Of Anatomy-Theatres, until of late, there have been few in Germany, or none. And when I was in the Anatomy-School at Altorff, near Nurenburg, that learned and civil Profeſſor, Dr. Mauritius Hoffmannus, told me that the ſame was the Firſt in Germany.

Paulus de Sorbait, Prime Profeſſor, Phyſician unto Eleonora the Empreſs Dowager, and Knight of Hungary, was the Rector Magnificus. Zwelfer, who writ Animadverſions upon the Diſpenſatory of Auſburg, was in great repute in Vienna, and had built for himſelf a noble Houſe in the City, but he died ſome time before my coming thither.

In fine, the Univerſity is noble, their Advancements conſiderable, their Priviledges great, and they have the power of life and death, from ancient and latter Conceſſions of their Dukes and Emperours.

But the greateſt luſtre unto Vienna is the Reſidence of the preſent Emperour Leopoldus; he was born in the year 1638. he was Son unto the Emperour Ferdinand the Third; he was baptized by the Names of Leopoldus, Ignatius, Franciſcus, Balthazar, Joſephus, Felicianus. His eldeſt Brother Ferdinand, King of the Romans, died of the Small Pox in his Fathers time. His Brother Carolus Joſephus, Maſter of the Teutonick Order, dyed 1662. He married Margareta Infanta of Spain, daughter unto King Philip the Fourth, whoſe Children died Infants; a vertuous, affable, grave, and worthy Prince, and ſeemed to me to live very happily here, in the love and honour of his People, Souldiers, and Clergy.

His Perſon is grave and graceful; he hath the Auſtrian Lip remarkably, his Chin long, which is taken for a good Phyſiognomical mark, and a ſign of a conſtant, placid, and little troubled mind. He is conceived to carry in his Face the lineaments of four of his Predeceſſours, that is, of Rudolphus the Firſt, of Maximilian the Firſt, of Charles the Fifth, and Ferdinand the Firſt. He was very affectionate unto his Empreſs, who, though but young, was a modeſt, grave Princeſs, had a good aſpect, was zealous in her Religion, and an Enemy unto the Jews. He ſhewed alſo great reſpect and obſervance unto the Empreſs Dowager Eleonora, who was a ſober and prudent Princeſs, well skilled in all kind of curious Works, and delighted ſometimes to ſhoot at Deer from a Stand, or at other Game, out of her Coach. He was alſo very loving unto his Siſters, beautiful and good Ladies; whereof one, the eldeſt, was ſince married unto that Noble Prince Michael Wiſnowitzski, King of Poland.

He ſpeaks four Languages, German, Italian, Spaniſh, and Latin. He is a great countenancer of Learned Men, and delighteth to read, and when occaſion permitteth, will paſs ſome hours at it. The worthy Petrus Lambecius his Library Keeper, and who is in great eſteem with him, will uſually find out ſome Books for him which he conceiveth may be acceptable. While I was there he recommended a Tranſlation of Religio Medici unto him, wherewith the Emperour was exceedingly pleaſed, and ſpake very much of it unto Lambecius, inſomuch that Lambecius asked me whether I knew the Author, he being of my own name, and whether he were living: And when he underſtood my near Relation to him, he became more kind and courteous than ever, and deſired me to ſend him that Book in the Original Engliſh, which he would put into the Emperours Library: and preſented me with a neat little Latin Book, called Princeps in Compendio, written by the Emperours Father, Ferdinandus the Third.

He is alſo skilful in Muſick, compoſeth well, and delighted much in it, both at his Palace and the Church, which makes ſo many Muſicians in Vienna; for no place abounds more with them; and in the Evening we ſeldom failed of Muſick in the Streets, and at our Windows: And the Emperours delight herein makes the Church-men take the greater care to ſet off their Church-muſick, for he goeth often to Church, and not to one, but divers, eſpecially the beſt Conventual Churches: and in his own Chappel ſome of his own Compoſitions are often play'd. He hath alſo excellent Muſick in his Palace, both Vocal and Inſtrumental; and his private Chappel is well ſerved, where beſides the excellent Muſick, there are always eight or ten Counts, Pages to the Emperour, who ſerve at the Altar with white wax Torches in their hands; and after the manner of the Italian Princes, divers Eunuchs to ſing.

For his Recreations abroad, he delighteth much in Hunting, eſpecially of the wild Boar in due ſeaſons; I have known him bring home ſix Boars in a morning. Some ſtout perſons, particularly Count Nicholas Serini, would encounter a wild Boar alone, but at laſt he unfortunately periſhed by one, which hath made others more wary ſince; and therefore when the Boar is at a Bay, the Huntſmen ſo ſtand about him, that the Emperour, or other great perſons, may more ſafely make uſe of their Boarſpears upon him.

Surely there are great numbers of them about the Country, for they are no unuſual or extraordinary Diſh in the City, though of a delicious and pleaſing taſte. They feed upon Acorns, Beech-maſt, and Cheſnuts, upon the ſpring or ſprout of Broom, Juniper, and Shrubs, and upon the roots of Fern, and will range into Corn-fields, and come out of Forreſts into Vineyards. The Huntſmen are notably verſed and skilful in that Game; for though they ſee it not, they will diſtinguiſh a wild from a common Swine, and gheſs whether that which they hunt be Male or Female, old or young, large or ſmall, fat or lean; and this they chiefly conjecture from their tread or foot, and the caſting their hindfeet out of the track of their forefeet.

The Emperour being ſo good a Huntſman, it is the leſs wonder that he is eſteemed a good Horſman. Certain it is, that he hath a very noble Stable of Horſes, procured from all parts, Turkiſh, Tartarian, Polonian, Tranſylvanian, Saxon, Bohemian, Hungarian, Naples, &c. and they are well managed; and they ride them to the ſatisfaction of the Beholders.

Having ſeen the Arſenal at Venice, the Stores at Chatham, and the Naval Proviſions at Amſterdam, I am not like to admire any other, eſpecially ſo far from the Sea, and looked for nothing of that nature in this place. Notwithſtanding I found an Arſenal, and place for Naval Veſſels to be ſet out upon occaſion, and ſome thereof were employed in the laſt Turkiſh war, when they attempted to deſtroy the Bridge of Boats which the Turks had made over the Danube, a little above Gran and Barehan. They are built ſomewhat like Galleys, carry great Guns, and a good number of Souldiers, and will make a ſight upon the broad deep ſtream of the Danube, and may be handſomely brought into the Town behind one of the Baſtions, when the River is high; and hereof there are ſome at Rab and Komora, as I have declared elſewhere.

The Emperour hath many Counſellors, great Souldiers and Courtiers about him; among which theſe ſeemed of greateſt Note.

Euſebius Wenceſlaus Duke de Sagan, Prince Lobkowitz, Pirme Counſellor, Hoff-meiſter, of the Order of the Golden Fleece, a perſon of a grave and ſober Aſpect, ſomewhat blunt in converſation, but of a generous temper, and free from all covetouſneſs, who ſpent his Revenues nobly, and unto his great reputation: He was chief Favorite unto the Emperour; and though ſome had no great opinion of his Abilities, yet he was the firſt that diſcovered the laſt Hungarian defection and revolt, whereby thoſe Noble Perſons, Count Peter Serini and Nadaſti (whom I ſaw at Vienna) were brought unto their ends.

Henricus Gulielmus, Count of Stahrenberg, Ober-hoff-Mareſchal, or Lord Marſhal of the Court.

Johannes Maximilianus, Count of Lamburg, Oberſt-Kammer-Herr, or Chief of the Chamber, a Perſon of great eſteem. The Gentlemen of the Bed-chamber are numerous, and many are in extraordinary; there may be an hundred of them, all Barons and Counts. Every one of them wears a Golden Key before his Breaſt: and the Grooms of the Bed-chamber wear one of Steel: Two of each attend every Night.

Gundakerus, Count Dietrichſtein, Oberſt-Stall-Meiſter, or Chief Maſter of the Horſe.

Theſe are the Chief. Theſe following are alſo conſiderable.

Count Sinzendorff, Oberſte-Jag-Meiſter, Grand Veneur, or Hunts-Maſter, a Perſon in good favour with the Emperour, who very much delighteth in Hunting, as have moſt of his Predeceſſors.

The Count of Averſberg Oberſt Falken-Meiſter, Chief Falconer, who hath twelve Falconers under him.

The Count of Paar, Chief Maſter of the Emperours Poſt.

Leopoldus Wilhelmus, Marquiſs of Baden, Captain of an hundred Hartſhires, who are the Horſe-guard, and ride with Piſtols and Carabines out of the City; but within Vienna they cary Launces and Javelins with broad points.

Franciſcus Auguſtinus, Count of Wallenſteyn, Captain of an hundred of the Foot-guard, of a good Perſonage, and well eſteemed of by the Emperour.

Sixty, or more, Pages, for the number is uncertain, and not limited; moſt of them Counts and Barons.

Raymundus, Count de Montecuculi, was his General, Preſident of the Council of War, Governour of Rab and the Confines about it, and of the Order of the Golden Fleece; a tall Perſon, ſomewhat lean, but hath a ſpirit in his look: he is one of the oldeſt Commanders in Europe, and performed good Service in Poland, Hungary, Germany in many places, and is eſteemed a prudent, valiant, and ſucceſsful Commander.

The Count de Souches was alſo a Commander of great Fame, and in high eſteem with the Emperour. He was a Native of Rochelle: he firſt ſerved the Swedes in the German wars, and was a Colonel, but upon ſome diſguſt he forſook the Swedes, and ſerved the Imperialiſts, and was made Governour of Brin, the ſecond Town in Moravia. After the taking of Crembs in Auſtria, General Torſtenſon beſieged Brin, and ſent word unto the Governour de Souches, That if he refuſed to deliver up the Town he would give him no quarter. Who anſwered him, That he would not ask any, and alſo give none: and defended the place with ſuch reſolution, that after many Aſſaults, Underminings, and Attempts by Granado's, Torſtenſon was forced to riſe, after a Siege of four months, which was ſo advantagious unto Auſtria and the Imperial affairs, that the Emperour took eſpecial notice of him, made him a Baron, and of his Privy Council. He commanded alſo all the Forces in Vienna, and did notable Service in the laſt Turkiſh wars. He took the City of Nitra, or Nitria, not far from Strigonium or Gran; and took and ſlew ſix thouſand Turks which were ſent by the Vizier of Buda againſt him: a worthy Perſon, and of a good Aſpect. Count Souches the younger his Son, an Heroick Commander, is Governour of the ſtrong fortified place Leopoldſtadt by Freiſtadt, a Perſon of great Civility, unto whom I was much obliged.

Count Leſly, Nephew unto Count Leſly who was ſent Ambaſſadour to Conſtantinople to the Sultan from the Emperour, is a Commander worthy of that eſteem he hath with the Emperour; a Perſon of great Courage, Civility and Humanity, which I muſt ever acknowledge.

The Courts of the Empreſs, and of the Empreſs Dowager, are filled with Perſons of Note; and there are a great number of Souldiers in this place of great Fame, as the Marquiſs Pio, Spork, Cops, and many more. Many of the Clergy and Men of Learning, are in good eſteem with the Emperour; but the Jeſuites Milner and Boccabella are his near Favorites. Many Strangers, both Souldiers and Scholars, have built their Fortunes here. And ſurely Strangers of parts and induſtry, ſo they be of the Roman Church, are not like to raiſe their Fortunes any where better than in theſe parts.

Though the Emperour goeth not to war in Perſon, yet hath he been ſucceſsful in his wars, eſpecially in the laſt Battel with the Turks at St. Godart, where the buſineſs was handſomly and actively managed, to ſet upon the body of the Turks, which had paſſed the River Rab, before the whole Forces of the Vizier could come over, to the great ſlaughter of the Janiſaries and Turks, who fought ſtoutly, and were firſt put to a Retreat by the French Cavalry. For at firſt the Turks ſeemed to prevail, and had ſlain a great part of two Regiments of the Auxiliaries which came out of Franconia, and after their cuſtome, had cut off their Heads.

Among the many notable things in Vienna, the Imperial Library is very remarkable. He who hath ſeen the Bodleian Library at Oxford, and the Vatican at Rome, would be much ſurpriſed to find ſuch a notable one here, as may compare with them; eſpecially upon the extreme Borders of the Learned part of Europe.

The number and nobleneſs of the Books doth much exceed the receptacle or place which containeth them, as making no fair ſhew at the entrance, and ſomewhat wanting light. But as for the number and value of the Books, they are of opinion here that it yieldeth unto none, but rather excelleth any other Library in Europe. There was a place deſigned for the building of a fit receptacle for them; but, I know not how, a Theatre for Comedies is now built in that place.

It is divided into eight Chambers or Rooms, which are ſo well filled, that many Books are fain to lye upon the Floor; and the Shelves ſtand ſo cloſe, that there is but juſt room to paſs between them. The Manuſcripts ſtand diſtinct from the printed Books, according to their Languages, being divided into ſix Claſſes, Theological, Juridical, Medical, Philoſophical, Hiſtorical, Philological. There can ſcarce be a more admirable Collection than the Manuſcripts in part of the firſt Chamber, of Hebrew, Syriack, Arabick, Turkiſh, Armenian, Aethiopick, and Chineſe Books.

It was begun, at leaſt the Books began to be placed in this receptacle, by Maximilian the Firſt, but hath been much encreaſed by ſucceeding Emperours, moſt of them, ſince Rodolphus the Firſt, being much addicted unto Learning, there having been large acceſſions from many noble Libraries, and moſt upon the coſt of the Emperours. The choiceſt Books in the famous Library of Buda, of King Matthias Corvinus, Son unto Huniades, are now in it. The notable Library of Wolfgangus Lazius, who was Library-Keeper, was brought hither, and Three thouſand Books of Johannes Sambucus are now in this Repoſitory.

Augerius Buſbequius, ſometime Library-Keeper hereof, added much unto it; and in his two Turkiſh Embaſſies procured great number of noble Greek Manuſcripts at Conſtantinople, which are inſcribed with his own hand, Aug. de Buſbeck. emit Conſtantinopoli. A great many were added from the Library of the Learned Johannes Cuſpinianus, Library Keeper, and Counſellor unto the Emperour. The notable Libraries and Mathematical Inſtruments of Tycho Brahe, Kepler, and Gaſſendus, were purchaſed for it. But the largeſt acceſſion was made by the noble Library of Count Fugger, which conſiſting of ſixteen thouſand Volumes, was purchaſed by Ferdinand the Third. Many were brought, ſome few years paſt, from the Ambraſian Library by Inſpruck, by the Learned Petrus Lambecius, Library Keeper, Hiſtoriographer, and Counſellor unto the preſent Emperour; who hath alſo an excellent Library which is like to be added unto the Imperial. He then reckoned the Volumes in this great Library to amount at leaſt to Fourſcore thouſand; and by this time that number may be increaſed, for he addeth ſome yearly. And the number might almoſt be endleſs, if they would make uſe of their priviledge, for the Emperour hath a right to have two Books of all that are printed in Germany.

They have alſo a great advantage at Vienna, to acquire good Manuſcripts from the Turkiſh Dominions, for the Emperour is obliged to have a Reſident with the Grand Signor whereſoever he moveth or ordereth him to be; even at the laſt ſight of St. Godart, the Emperour's Reſident was in the Turkiſh Camp. And when I was at Lariſſa in Theſſaly, the Reſident Signor di Caſa Nova, was inquiſitive after Books to be found among the Greeks in Monaſteries and other places. And this Emperour, like his Father, will ſpare no coſt toward ſuch Acquiries.

By the eſpecial favour of my noble Friend Lambecius, I went many times into this Library, and he was ſo courteous as to let me have what Books I deſired unto my private Lodging: He would ſhew me divers Books upon what Subject I required, and offered me a ſight of what Books he thought rare and eſtimable; and amongſt others I could not but take notice of theſe following.

A Letter of the preſent Emperour of China, in the Chineſe and Tartarian Languages, unto the preſent Emperour of Germany, weaved in a very fine Roll.

Another old Roll written in unknown Letters, yet a little reſembling the Greek.

A Book in the Runick Language.

A very fair Manuſcript of Ptolomy, with the Mapps drawn in Colours.

The oldeſt Manuſcript and true Exemplar of Livie, in large Letters, without diſtinction of Words or Sentences, very uneaſie to be read, a thouſand years old, and brought, not many years ſince, from the Library near Inſpruck.

An old fair Greek Manuſcript of Dioſcorides, written eleven hundred years ſince, in very large Letters, without diſtance of Words, or Accents, wherein all the Plants are lively painted; alſo the Pictures of Dioſcorides, Galen, Pamphilus, Cratevas, and other ancient Phyſicians, bought of a Jew at Conſtantinople for an hundred Ducats by Buſbequius.

A Book of Geometrical Propoſitions demonſtrated in the China Language.

Another fair one in the China Tongue with Pictures.

A noble old Greek Manuſcript in great uncial Letters, without ſtops, points, or diſtance of words.

An ancient Greek Manuſcript of the Book of Geneſis, in large Letters, without diſtance or accents, thirteen hundred years ago; wherein are Forty eight Pictures or Draughts in Miniature or Water colours, much conducing to the knowledge of ancient Habits, the manner of Feaſting, poſtures at Meals, waiting of Servants and Muſical Inſtruments: Wherein I could not but take notice of the Golden Spot upon Joſephs breaſt; and the manner of the Execution of Pharaoh's Baker, his Head being put through a forked piece of wood, and his Hands tyed behind him.

A fair Book of Albert Durer, wherein are many fine Paintings in Miniature or Limning; as alſo a Sphere, and within it a Globe carved and painted by him.

A fair Book of Michael Angelo, wherein, beſides many rare things in Architecture, are all the paintings and deſigns of the Belvedere in little.

A fair Alcoran in Arabick, interlined with the Turkiſh to explain it.

The Bible in the Coptick and Perſian Languages.

Luther's own Bible, marked with his own Hand, and interlined by him with Notes in many places.

A fair Greek Manuſcript of the New Teſtament, fifteen hundred years ago written in Letters of Gold upon Purple.

There was alſo a Magical Glaſs, obtained by the Emperour Rodolphus, whereby to ſee Apparitions, and converſe with Spirits; which ſome conceive to be the ſame, or of the like nature with that uſed by Kelly.

Of ancient Greek, Roman, and Gothick Medals and Coyns, in Gold, Silver, and Copper, to the number of ſixteen thouſand. Among the Copper Coyns they pretend to have two of the Emperour Marcus Otho.

I let fall ſome Drops into this Ocean, adding ſome Coyns, Intaglia's, and Inſcriptions not to be found in that large work of Gruterus; which having found in the Emperours furtheſt Dominions and Turkiſh parts, long out of his poſſeſſion, where there had been no great enquiry after them; were ſhewed unto his Imperial Majeſty by Petrus Lambecius, and ſo well accepted by him, that he ſaid I might have the uſe of what Books I deſired: and at my return into England he gave me a formal Paſs in Latin for my ſafe Travel, and that my Trunks or Goods might not be ſearched, which takes off a great deal of trouble in paſſing ſo many Principalities and free Cities, Commanding all in his own Dominions, and Requeſting all Princes in Germany to favour me, and permit me to paſs freely without moleſtation: It was thus Subſcribed,

Leopoldus

Leopoldus Gulielmus Comes in Kinigſeggs.

Ad mandatum Sacr. Caeſ. Majeſtatis proprium Beüer.

The Rarities of the great Duke of Tuſcany, The Treaſure of Loretto, St. Mark, St. Denis in France, of the Duke of Saxony at Dreſden, and others, were very ſatisfactory to me. Yet having a fair opportunity, I would not leave Vienna without a ſight of the moſt noble Treaſury or Repoſitory of his Imperial Majeſty; eſpecially having heard ſo much thereof, and knowing it to be the Collection of many ſucceeding Emperours. I therefore took a fit opportunity to remain divers hours in it, and was extremely delighted with the rich and magnificent Curioſities thereof. To ſet down all I ſaw, were a work too large for this Volume; and the Catalogue of them, which is kept in this place, taketh up a large Volume in Folio. I ſhall therefore only mention theſe following, whereby ſome conjecture may be made of the reſt.

In the firſt Cupboard or Caſe were many noble Veſſels, turned and ſhaped out of Ivory, a Cup turned by the Emperours own Hand; another turned by Ferdinandus the Third. Gallant Cups of Amber; Spoons and Veſſels of Mother of Pearl; many noble works in Coral; a fine Galley in Ivory, and Cups made out of Rhinocerot's horn.

In the ſecond, An Elephant of Ivory with a Caſtle upon his back, and over the Caſtle a Ship, with much other fine work in the ſame piece. Two fair Pillars of Ivory; good Baſſo Relievo in Ivory; a fair Cranium or Deaths-head, and much other variety of Ivory work. A Picture in Oyl of Ganimede, by Corregio.

In the third, A fine Picture of an old Man's head in Oyl by Albert Durer: great Variety of Watches and Clock-work in Silver: a fine Centaur in Silver, which is a curious Watch.

In the fourth, More Watches and Clock-work; a gallant Ship of Silver, a Triumphal Chariot, a Turk riding and attended, a Globe and a Sphere in Silver, a curious Landskip in Oyl by Corregio, a Cupid by the ſame hand, with a fine Copy of it.

In the fifth, A curious Filigrane Handkerchief, and two fair Filegrane Plates brought out of Spain by the Empreſs Margarita; an Indian Basket of an Indian ſort of Filegrane mixed with Birds; a Baſon of Agate finely wrought with ſilver Craw-fiſhes in it.

In the ſixth, Is contained a ſtrange Collection of Intaglie and old Roman Stones, admirable for their work and largeneſs. A large Agate whereon is wrought the Hiſtory of that Victory which Auguſtus Caeſar obtained over the Dalmatians and Pannonians in the ninth year of our Lord; about five inches long, and four broad, highly valued.

An Onyx with the Head of Alexander and Olympia.

A Shell with a Battel carved in it.

A Chain with the Heads of all the Auſtrian Family.

A Dog in a very large Sardonyx.

In the ſeventh, A noble Head in Oyl by Hans van Ach. The Head of Maximilianus the Firſt in Plaiſter, with a lock of his own Hair. Mother of Pearl in many ſhapes. Fine Baſkets, and the twelve Caeſar's Heads.

In the eighth, moſt of Chryſtal, A noble Veſſel about a yard and half high, made out of one piece of Chryſtal. An Urne. The Head of the Empreſs. A fair Dragon. The Head of the Queen-Mother of France. A Chryſtal in which the Picture of our Saviour may be ſeen thrice one way, and once another way.

The ninth of Chryſtal alſo, A noble Ewer. A fair Veſſel of very clear Chryſtal, lately bought. A large Head. Fair Croſſes, and other Varieties.

The tenth of Gold and precious Stones. Five Crowns. The Imperial Crown; rich in Jewels, and hath a very large blew Saphir on the top. A Model of that Crown with which the Emperour is crowned, much richer than the Original. A Paragon Diamond of ſeventeen Carats and a half. Very large Rubies. A Scepter of Unicorns horn, ſet with rich Stones. A Locket of the greateſt Diamonds. A magnificent Scepter, Globe, Croſs, and Crown, which coſt ſeven hundred thouſand Crowns. An Opal bigger than my hand, as it was taken out of the Mine; and many other fair Opals. A very large Emerald. A Ship in an Emerald. A fair Ring-Dial.

The eleventh of Gold. A noble Baſon uſed at the Baptiſm of the Auſtrian Family. Scepters, Scimeters, Knives, and other rich Preſents from the Turk. Three rich Dog-Collars, ſent with three Dogs out of England, with this Mark on them ↃC ↃC. A large lump of pure Gold, as it was taken out of the Mine, as broad as my hand. A fair piece of Gold Ore, wherein the pure Gold ſhooteth upon a white Stone. Divers great Baſons of Gold and Coral.

In the twelfth. Veſſels of Jaſpis, Agate, Lapis Lazuli, Oriental Granates. Cups of Onyx, Sardonyx. Large ones of Lapis Nephriticus: and a great one of an Amethyſt.

In the thirteenth. A large high Veſſel of Bohemian Topaz. Flowers well made out of precious Stones. A Cup of an Hungarian Diamond. A piece of Ambergreece as big as a mans head, ſent from the Grand Signor. A noble Jaſpis-ſtone. A large Stone of Agate on the outſide, and a bed of large Amethyſts naturally in it in the middle, which is an extraordinary and pleaſant Rarity.

In the reſt, Noble Chryſolites, Jacynths, Oriental Granates, Berylt or Aquamarines. The notable rich Smaragdus, or Emerald, or a Cup out of that Stone. Three great ones having been already taken out, valued at three hundred thouſand Crowns. A Picture in Oyl of the little King Uladiſlaus Lokeli, King of Hungary. Ten rich Turkiſh Saddles with Furniture for Horſes, ſet with fair Turcois Stones. A great number of Gold Veſſels and fine Figures in Coral, Turkiſh Knives, Gauntlets, and Table men of Gold. Delicate Pictures in Wax. Very large Bezoar-ſtones, Indian-gold Cards and Counters. A vaſt Medal of the Emperours Arms, weighing two thouſand two hundred Ducats, or a thouſand pounds Engliſh. A Cup out of Solomon's Temple. Fair Amber, Rare Inlaying in Wood. Bacchus and other Statua's out of a very high Rhinocerot's horn. A fine Picture of the Mountain Veſuvius. Jewels with black Feathers given by the Turkiſh Ambaſsadours. A notable Picture of a lean Skeleton Prieſt, who lived ſo four years. A noble Cabinet-clock with large motions. A fair Baſon and Ewer of carved Ivory. King Philip the Second of Spain in Diamond Armour, ſet in Gold. A neat Picture of an old Man courting a young Woman, with this Motto:

Arctum Annulum nè geſtato.

A Knife ſwallowed by a Peaſant near Prague, which was nine months in his Stomach, and ſafely cut out 1602. The like happened alſo to a perſon in Pruſſia, of which Daniel Becker hath written a peculiar Tract under this Title, De Cultrivoro Pruſſiaco. A fair Crucifix of Pearl. Indian Pictures made of Feathers. The King of Sweden, Guſtavus Adolphus's Buff-coat in which he was killed at the Battel of Lutzen. Tilly's Sword. An Angel in Ivory with Hair and Clothes of Filegrane of Gold. A neat Crucifix of Wood by Albertus Durer, Two very large Lookingglaſſes with the Frames of Silver. All the Goſpels written and painted. Many brave Statua's and Pictures every where. The Head of Charles the Firſt King of England, in white Marble. A Pediſtal of Amber, over which a Croſs. The Head of St. Valerius Biſhop of Triers. The Picture of St. Katherine of Sienna, drawn by Sigiſmund King of Poland. A Picture of the Emperour as he giveth Audience, to be looked upon through a little round hole. A neat Table of Inlay'd Stone made by the preſent Empreſs Dowager Eleonora. A Nail of our Saviour's Croſs almoſt a foot long; our Saviour's Blood; and two Thorns of his Crown, the one whiter than the other. Prieſts Garments covered all over with large Pearl. The great and high eſteemed Agate Diſh, between three and four ſpans Diameter, with XRISOS naturally in it. Unto which one applied that of St. Luke, Dico vobis quia ſi hi tacuerint, lapides clamabunt.

Unto which magnificent Rarities there is one more added, the noble Chain of Pearl of eight yards long, taken from the Graff Tokoly in the late Hungarian war, as I underſtand ſince my Return.

I went unto divers noted Places about Vienna: I walked unto the Hill of Vienna, two Engliſh miles diſtant from the Town, going up all the way by an eaſie Aſcent; from whence I had a proſpect of the City, and the Campagnia about it, together with the high Mountains in Steirmark covered with Snow: and in my return ſaw the Palace of the Empreſs Dowager without the Town, called la Favorita, and paſſed by the Convent of the Paulini.

About two Engliſh miles Eaſtward from Vienna, there is a very noble Garden-place belonging to the Emperour, built by Rodolphus the Second, which hath been formerly well furniſhed, and provided with Plants, but now ſeems to be neglected, and ſomewhat ruinous. It conſiſteth of an inward and an outward ſquare Garden: The inward is two hundred ordinary paces ſquare, about the ſame bigneſs with the Place Royal at Paris: It hath a Portico or Cloyſter, ſupported by Forty Pillars of white Stone on each ſide, and is covered with Copper; as are alſo the Pavilions which the common people think to be Gold. Beſides this, there is an handſome row of Buildings well ſeated, called Néw-gabaú, in which at preſent are many wild Beaſts kept. Lions and Tigres breed here, and have young ones. Some ſay this was the place of Solyman the Magnificents Tent when he beſieged Vienna.

There is alſo, about two or three miles from Vienna, a noted place of Devotion, called Arnols, much frequented, eſpecially in Lent, divers carrying Croſſes very heavy all the way upon their ſhoulders. There is here a little Houſe built exactly after that of the Sepulchre at Jeruſalem; and alſo a handſome Copy of the Picture of our Saviour and the Virgin Mary, with their exact heights. That of our Saviour is about two yards high; that of the bleſſed Virgin three or four ſingers breadth lower: Theſe are taken from the Original in St. John de Lateran at Rome. Hither the Empreſs deſired to go one morning from her own Palace on foot, out of Devotion, which ſhe performed, though with a great deal of difficulty, ſhe being not uſed to walk, and the way was duſty. The Emperour accompanied her, and all the Court followed on foot, which made a handſome ſhew.

Nearer unto Vienna there is alſo a remarkable place for Devotion, called Itzing: and in the way from Vienna unto it, the twelve Stations of the Croſs are marked out in imitation of what is obſerved near Jeruſalem, in the Via Crucis, or Doloroſa, in our Saviours proceeding from the City unto Mount Calvary; the Figures thereof are printed, and the ſeveral paces between every Station ſet down. The Emperour hath a handſome Park near Vienna, called the Brater, wherein I beheld the effects of the great Lightning and Thunder which happened three days before, upon many great Trees which were torn, ſplit, or twiſted. There is a Houſe of Pleaſure in it, where among other things, I could not but take notice of a Muſical Inſtrument which I had not ſeen before, a Seat or Cheſt-drum; it hath a Cord like that of a Sea-trumpet, but ſoundeth like a Kettle-drum.

I went alſo unto Laxambourg, whither the Emperour often retireth; he hath a Houſe in this place, but it is old, and not large. There is alſo a Houſe of Pleaſure in the Mote, into which there is no other paſſage but through a high Gorridore. The Caſtle is commodiouſly ſeated for the Emperours recreation; and there is an eight-ſquare Houſe in the Marſh, from which the Nobility and the Empreſs Dowager ſometimes uſed to ſhoot, ſhe being very expert therein. Over the Gate of the Emperours Houſe hangs a great Rib and Jaw-bone, whereof I could get no better account, then they were the Rib and Jaw-bone of a heathen-maid. They ſeemed to me to be Bones of an Elephant But many things that are old or obſcure, they call, in this Country, Heathen: as Roman Coyns, they call Heathen mony. And the Peaſants brought me, in a place which had been formerly an old Roman Station, part of the bit of a Bridle digged up, which they concluded to be a Heathen Key.

From hence I went unto Mannerſdorff, ſeated not far from the River Leyta, where there is a natural hot Bath, called the Wildebath; it ariſeth under a Church, the Church being built over the Spring-head. The water of it is but Lukewarm, and therefore when they deſire it hotter, they boyl it, and ſo bathe in Tubs in a large room. From that Subſtance which ſticketh to the ſides of the Coppers in the boyling of it, they judge it to be impregnated with Sulphur, Salt-peter, and Chalk. The water colours the ſtones, and makes them look, when wet, like fine Turquoiſes. And the vapour of the Bath hanging upon the Moſs on the ſides, gives it an Amber or Gold colour. The Phyſicians of Vienna have given a good account concerning the uſe of theſe Baths in High-dutch. Not far from hence is a noted Quarry of Stone, out of which a great part of Vienna is built. The Stones being large they cut and ſquare them at the Quarry.

From hence I proceeded to the Newſidler-ſea or Lake, ſo called from Newſidle, which is a Town ſeated upon the Northern part of it, conſiſting of one ſtreet and ſome back-houſes, and a ſmall, ſquare, old Caſtle upon a Hill, from whence I had a good proſpect over the Lake. It is about three German miles broad, and ſeven miles long. The faireſt Lake in theſe parts, affording plenty of Fiſh; encompaſſed and thickly ſet about with ſmall Towns and Villages; and hath no River, at leaſt not conſiderable, running into or out of it. A little way from the Gate of Newſidle they dig out a black earth, out of which they make Salt peter. In this Journey, not far from Himburg, we paſſed by a place called Rauckward, which, though it ſeems not high, looks over a great part of Auſtria, and as far as Brin, the ſecond City of Moravia, a part alſo of the Kingdom of Bohemia, and a part of the Kingdom of Hungaria. I went afterwards four Engliſh miles up the Stream of the Danube, to ſee a noted Quarry of Stone in a Hill called Altenburg. The beds, rows, or caſes of the Stones lye not horizontally, but rather elevated Northward, about the height of the Angle forty, yet are not always ſo regularly placed, but rather follow the ſhape of the Hill, and according to that are differently ſituated. Here I alſo obſerved a Subſtance between a Clay and a Stone called Leberſtein, or Liverſtone; and upon many of theſe Stones I found the figures of Trees and Leaves, though not ſo deep or neat as upon the Stones by Florence; yet very prettily marked, and often with broader Leaves than I had elſewhere obſerved. I paſſed forward to Cloſter-Neuburg, a Town moſt of it belonging to that notable rich Monaſtery ſeated here, founded by St. Leopoldus Marqueſs of Auſtria, and ſince much enriched by ſucceeding Donations.

Matthaeus Merian hath a goodcut of the Proſpect of the Danube here abouts, and in what manner it paſſeth downwards between the two great Hills of Kalenburg and Biſnburg. Upon one Peak of Kalenburg live divers Camaldulenſes, of an Order the moſt ſevere of any, living moſt upon Roots and Herbs, in the manner of Hermites. Near their Cells they had paved the ground with thoſe Stones I mentioned, which were naturally marked with the ſhapes of Trees and Plants.

After an open Autumn there followed a ſharp Winter at Vienna, in the months of December and January. The branches of the Danube were ſoon frozen over. The main Stream, by reaſon of its ſwift Current, held out longer, but was afterwards alſo frozen. Some have thought that this River is more apt to freez than others. And we read of Battels which have been fought upon this River frozen; but I could not make any regular Obſervation thereof. This hard weather the ground being covered with Snow, afforded handſome Recreations unto men, and ſome unto the Ladies, in running Courſes in handſome Sleds and Devices upon the Snow. Their Sleds were well contrived in the ſhape of Gryphins, Tigers, Swans, Scallop Shells, Dolphins, Peacocks, and the like Curioſities, carved, painted, and gilded. The Lady ſits in one of theſe, richly habited in Velvet, lined with rich Furrs, ſet off with Lace and Jewels, in a Velvet Cap lined with Sables. The Sled is drawn by a Horſe, dreſſed up with Feathers of all colours, and Bells hanging about him, a pair of Stags horns behind his head, Ribbons and other Ornaments: one or more Pages ride by on Horſe-back with Torches in their hands. And after this manner they perform their Courſe upon the frozen Snow about the ſtreets of Vienna in the night, with good ſpeed one after another. A Gentleman ſits behind the Lady and guides the Horſe. But the Froſt breaking up put an end to theſe Recreations. The Froſt began and ended here the ſame day that it began and ended in England.

The Feſtivity of Chriſtmas was obſerved much after the ſame Manner, Ceremonies, and Solemnities as in Italy. On Chriſtmas-day the Emperour dined publickly, attended with many Nobles and great Perſons, and three remarkable low Dwarfs. Upon St. Stephens-day he went to the Cathedral of St. Stephen, and went up to the Altar, kneeled, and kiſſed the Plate whereon the Hoſtia had lain. At the Epiphany or Twelfth-tide, the old cuſtome of chooſing King and Queen was obſerved at Court. Count Leſley happened to be King, the Emperour laid the Cloath, and the Empreſs filled out Wine, together with other old Cuſtomes.

Before Chriſtmas there was extraordinary mirth and jollity at the Court upon occaſion of a Marriage: For Count Serau, Governour of Gratz in Styria, married a natural Daughter of Philip the Fourth, King of Spain, which was obſerved with many noble Solemnities and Bravery. And the Nobility and Ladies were ſo ſubſtantially ſplendid, that I was much ſurpriſed thereat.

This was followed by a Funeral Solemnity for the Count of Draun, who was Colonel of the Forces in Vienna, and who had one of the nobleſt Houſes in the City; his Corps was brought out of Italy, and interred in the Dominican Church, where he formerly built a very fair Altar, there was raiſed for him a Caſtrum Doloris, handſomely contrived and ſet round with white Wax Torches and Candles.

While I was in Vienna, the Empreſs Margarita was delivered of a Daughter, which was Chriſtned by the Name of Maria, Antonina, Joſepha, Benedicta, Roſalia, Petronella, but ſhe lived not many months. When the Empreſs came abroad, ſhe brought the Child to the Auguſtines Church, where Cardinal Carlo Caraffa, the Pope's Nuncio, received it, bleſſed it, and laid it upon the Altar.

During my ſtay here, the Election was in readineſs for a King of Poland, after the voluntary reſignation of that Crown by King Caſimir; and Couriers often paſſed between that Country and this. There were Competitors the Czar of Muſcovy's Son, the Duke of Newburg, and the Prince of Lorrain. The French moved actively for the Duke of Newburg, the Emperour for the Prince of Lorrain, who was then at Vienna, in great favour with the Emperour, who greatly promoted his intereſt; a Perſon of great eſteem, and who, if General Lubomirski had been living, who was his intimate Friend, in all probability might have obtained the Crown; and thereupon it was conceived that he ſhould have married the Emperour's Siſter. But the Poles made choice of one of their own Country, who was no Competitor, Michael Wiſnowitski, lately deceaſed, who alſo married the Siſter of the Emperour.

When I was here, there were many Ambaſſadours of Note, Don Balthaſar de la Cueva, Marquiſs of Malagon, and brother to the Viceroy of Naples, was Ambaſſadour for Spain. Cardinal Carlo Caraffa was the Pope's Nuncio. The Venetian Ambaſſadour Extraordinary, ſolicited for aſſiſtance for Candia, and he obtained the Regiment of Porcia under Marquiſs Pio. Count Souches the younger, who was Governour of Leopoldſtadt, and many noble and valiant Souldiers were preparing for that Expedition. The Turks gave aſſurance of the Grand Signor's intention to maintain the Peace inviolably; and requeſted the Emperour not to aſſiſt the Venetians or Tranſilvanians, nor to promote, but rather hinder, the Election of the Emperour of Muſcovy's Son to the Crown of Poland. The Biſhop of Beziers, ſent by the King of France to the Election of the King of Poland, came not hither, but paſſed through Nurenburg, where I lodged at the ſame Inn: They were generally here againſt the French Intereſt, and ſo were a great part of the Poliſh Nobility. An Ambaſſadour came alſo from the Cham of Tartary, to confirm a Peace, and afford mutual Aſſiſtance upon occaſion. Cha Gagi Aga was the Ambaſſadour, who brought a Preſent of the beſt Tartarian Horſes, which are of high eſteem for ſwiftneſs, hardineſs, boldneſs in paſſing frozen Rivers, and taking and ſwimming over great Streams. He was diſmiſſed with noble Preſents of Plate. The Emperour preſented the Cham of Tartary with a fair Silver Baſon and Ewer, and a curious Watch; and ſent Preſents unto the Chammine his Wife,; and alſo to his Siſter and four Brothers. His Followers were ſtout men, of good ſtature, courſe Complexions, wearing long furr'd Veſts and Calpack's, or furr'd Caps. Some of them had ſilver Rings with the ſame Signatures of the Turkiſh Seales. They took much Tobacco in very long Pipes. Their Tobacco is not in Rolls, but in Leaves, and dry. They went about wandring and gazing at moſt things, as Churches, Houſes, Shops: And took much delight to be in the Fair, where they would take much notice of ſmall trifles. Yet theſe are the men that make ſuch ſad Incurſions into the Eaſtern parts of Europe, and carrying away ſo many thouſands, ſell them to the Turks, and ſo repair the defect of People in Turky. And now after the Conſumption of men in Conſtantinople, and the Country about by the Plague, are like to be active in that Trade, hoping to find better Markets for their Plagiaries and Depredations.

There are divers Greeks who trade to Vienna, and many live in the Town, among which I met with three conſiderable perſons. One a grave Abbot, who was forced from his Convent by the Turk, upon ſuſpicion that he correſponded with thoſe of Candia. Another who went by the name of Conſtantinus Catacuzenos, and was of the Blood Royal of the Catacuzeni. The third was Jeremias a Greek Prieſt, who had travelled through Italy and France into England, and from thence through the Low-Countries and Germany to Vienna, and intended for Conſtantinople. He came into England to enquire after a young man who was in a Ship which was firſt taken by an Algerine, and afterwards by an Engliſh man of war in the Levant. He was very kindly uſed in England, and particularly at Cambridge. He did a great deal of honour at Vienna unto the Engliſh Nation, declaring that they were the moſt civil, generous, and learned people he had met with in all his Travels, and that he no where found ſo many who could ſpeak or underſtand Greek, or who gave him ſo good ſatisfaction in all parts of Knowledge: And as a teſtimony of his reſpect and gratitude, requeſted me to encloſe a Greek Letter unto Dr. Pierſon, now Lord Biſhop of Cheſter, and Dr. Barrow, now Maſter of Trinity Colledge in Cambridge.

Moſt men live here plentifully, there being abundance of all proviſion. They have great quantity of Corn, which upon Scarcity, by the help of the Danube, might be brought unto them from remoter parts. The Country affordeth ſuch plenty of wine, that they ſend a conſiderable quantity up the River. They have alſo rich wines out of Hungary and Italy, and ſuch variety, that there are more than thirty ſeveral ſorts of Wine to be ſold in Vienna. They are not alſo without good Beer. Halſtadt in Auſtria affordeth them Salt, where they make it by letting in water into the hollow parts of a Mountain, where it drinketh in the Salt of the Earth, and is afterwards let out and boiled up. This affordeth great profit to the Emperor, and therefore the Hungarian Salt is not permitted to be brought higher than Preſburg. They have alſo plenty of Sheep and Oxen; but for Oxen at preſent they are alſo ſupplied from Hungary, nor only from the Countries in the Emperours Dominions, but from the Turkiſh parts, by permiſſion of the Grand Signor; and they are brought hither by the Eaſtern Company of Vienna. They eat much wild Boar, whereof the Fat is delicious, like that of Veniſon with us. They want not Hares, Rabbets, Partridges, Pheaſants. A Fowl called Haſenhendal, or Gallina Corylorum, is much eſteemed by them, which made me the more wonder to meet with ſome odde diſhes at their Tables; as Guiny-pigs, divers ſorts of Snails, and Tortoiſes.

The Danube, and many Rivers which run into it, afford them plenty of Fiſh, extraordinary Carps, Trouts, Tenches, Pikes, Eels, ſeveral ſorts of Lampries, and many Fiſhes finely coloured; the white Fiſh, Creviſes very large; the beſt come out of the River Swechet, not far from Vienna. They have alſo that ſubſtantial large fiſh, called a Scheiden, or Silurus Geſneri, larger than Pike, Salmon, or any of our River Fiſhes; but the great Fiſhes called Hauſons, or Huſones, in Johnſtonus, for largeneſs exceed all others; ſome being twenty foot long. Some think this to be the ſame Fiſh which Aelian nameth Antacetus, and ſpeaketh largely of the fiſhing for them in Iſter. I was at the fiſhing places for Hauſons in Schut Iſland, between Preſburg and Komara, for they come not uſually higher, eſpecially in ſhoals; and it is much that they come ſo high, for they are conceived to come out of the Euxine-ſea, and ſo up the ſtream. They eat them both freſh and ſalted; they taſte moſt like Sturgeon. It is a Cartilagineous Fiſh, conſiſting of griſtles, and they have a hollow nervous chord all down the back, which being dried ſerveth for a whip. When they fiſh for them they blow a Horn or Trumpet, and know where they go by the moving of the water. From Venice they are ſupplied with Oyſters, with ſalt Sturgeon, and ſometimes with red Herrings, and great variety of other Fiſhes pickled up: as alſo with Oranges, Limons, and other Fruits. Obſerving much freedom, muſick, and jollity in the City. I wondered how they could content themſelves without Plays, for there were few while I was there, till the Players came hither out of Saxony, and acted here for a time. The Jeſuites would ſometimes entertain the Emperour and Empreſs with a Comedy at their Colledge; and I had once the favour to be at one when they were preſent.

depictions of four fish

Rutten out of the Danube

Koppen

Grondel

Biſcurn

I. Oliuer Fe.

In Treaſon and high Crimes they cut off the right Hand of the Malefactor, and his Head immediately after. I ſaw a Woman beheaded ſitting in a Chair, the Executioner ſtriking off her Head with a Fore-blow, ſhe behaved her ſelf well, and was accompanied unto the Market place by the Confraternity of the Dead, who have a charitable care of ſuch Perſons, and are not of any Religious Order, but Lay men, among whom alſo in this place there are many Fraternities and Orders; as of the Holy Virgin, of the Holy Croſs and others. Another perſon alſo executed after the ſame manner; as ſoon as his Head fell to the ground, while the Body was in the Chair, a man ran ſpeedily with a Pot in his hand, and filling it with the Blood yet ſpouting out of his Neck, he preſently drank it off, and ran away; and this he did as a Remedy againſt the Falling Sickneſs. I have read of ſome who have approved the ſame Medicine; and heard of others who have done the like in Germany. And Gelſus takes notice, that in his time ſome Epileptical perſons did drink the Blood of the Gladiatours. But many Phyſicians have, in all times, abominated that Medicine. Nor did I ſtay afterwards ſo long as to know the effect thereof, as to the intended cure. But moſt men looked upon it as of great uncertainty: and of all men the Jews, who ſuffer no Blood to come into their Lips, muſt moſt diſlike it.

At Preſburg they have a ſtrange way of Execution, ſtill uſed at Metz, and ſome other places, by a Maid, or Engine like a Maid finely dreſſed up with her hands before her. The Malefactor ſalutes her firſt, and then retireth. But at his ſecond ſalute ſhe openeth her hands and cuts his Heart in ſunder.

Though the Winter was ſharp, yet the advantage of Stoves, and lying between two Feather-beds, made it tolerable: For they uſe Stoves here as in other parts of Germany, where they lodge and eat in Stoves; and great Perſons have Stoves in the Church, or ſuch as look into the Church. There are Stoves alſo in the publick Schools where Lectures are read. And this way of lying between two Feather-beds, with a neat laced ſheet ſpread over, is more convenient in a cold Country, than moſt others they make uſe of. For in the common Inns in Germany they generally ſleep upon Straw, and alſo in Hungary almoſt every where; and more Eaſterly upon the ground, ſpreading a Carpet or Saddle-cloath under them: and more Northerly they content themſelves with the Skins of Beaſts, Bears, Elks, or the like; upon which they ſleep in the night. Thoſe that ſleep loweſt are cooleſt in a Stove; thoſe that lye upon Tables, Benches, or higher, are more expoſed to the heat. The Citizens of Vienna are well attired, and uſe Furs very much. The Women wear a high Velvet Bonnet, lined or faced therewith. The Place ſeemed to be healthful; but they ſpeak much of the Colica Auſtriaca, as an Endemial and Local Diſeaſe, very hardly yielding unto good Medicines. They ſpeak good German at the Court and in the City; but the Common and Country people ſeemed to ſpeak grumblingly, and beſides their accent, have divers words different from other parts.

They have a Cuſtome upon St. Nicholas-day to put ſome ſmall Gift into the Childrens ſhoes; among other things they put in Medals and Dollars made of paper and flower gilded and ſilvered over, yet ſcarce worth a penny. They ſell Trochies or Tablets in the Markets, made of the pulpe of the Fruit of Hip-briar, made ſharp with Spirit of Sulphur, very refreſhing. Some carry about them a Thunderſtone, as a defence againſt Thunder: and they rub their Childrens Gums with a Wolfs tooth inſtead of Coral.

When I was at Venice in the time of the Carnival, I obſerved many Recreations and Shews, as Rope-dancing, flying down the Rope, cutting off Bulls-necks with Swords, and many other. But at Vienna a notable trick which I ſaw there pleaſed me much: A man of a middle Stature laid down upon his back, and a heavy Anvil was placed upon his Breaſt, as much as two men could well lift, then two other men with great Hammers laid on, until they had given almoſt an hundred blows, and cut in ſunder a great Horſhoe of iron, about half an inch thick.

Here is no Chriſtian Religion publickly permitted but the Roman, and therefore thoſe of the Proteſtant and Reformed Religion are fain to reſort unto Preſburg, Forty miles off, for which they have ſome convenience by the Danube, and a Coach which goeth every day. In the time of Maximilian the Second, they were permitted the Exerciſe of their Religion in the Church of the Holy Croſs, in the City of Vienna. But afterwards were prohibited by Rodolphus the Second. The Emperour Matthias gave them permiſſion to meet at Hernals, a little more than an Engliſh mile from Vienna; and gave leave to their Miniſters to come into the City, and there to chriſten, marry, baptize, and viſit the ſick. From which time they encreaſed very much, till Ferdinand the Second, returning from the Battel of Prague, baniſhed their Miniſter from Vienna and Arnols; ſent the Freyherr Jorger, to whom the Caſtle of Arnolds belonged, Priſoner unto Lintz; and never gave over till he had taken away their Priviledges and Freedom of meeting publickly in any part of lower Auſtria.

But here are no ſmall number of Jews, who have a diſtinct Habitation aſſigned them over the Water. They have alſo a Street allowed them in the City for the day time, but they muſt all depart at night beyond the River into the Suburbs.

They are much diſtaſted by the Citizens and Tradeſmen, and the Scholars agree but ill with them. While I was at Vienna there was a quarrel between them to an high degree. For the Scholars aſſaulted the Jews Town, beat, wounded, and threw divers of them into the River. Divers Scholars were wounded, ſome killed, and alſo ſome Souldiers who were commanded out to compoſe the Fray: and the Jews Town was guarded many days by the Souldiers of the City. This begot ſuch ill Blood and Complaints; that a good number of the Jews were to be baniſhed at a certain day. The Jews, to ingratiate with the Empreſs, then with Child, preſented her with a noble Silver Cradle, but ſhe would not receive it. And there was great danger of the general baniſhment of them when I left that City, which was afterwards effected, they being ſeverely prohibited from living, not only at Vienna, but in any part of Auſtria, where there were formerly whole Villages of them, ſo as they were forced to betake themſelves into the Dominions of the Turk, unto Venice, into Poland and Bohemia. They being not permitted to dwell in the Neighbour Countries of Hungary ſubject to the Emperour, Styria, or Carinthia.

I muſt confeſs they ſeemed uſeful unto the place for ready accommodation of any thing, either by ſale or exchange, but the people looked with an evil eye upon them, as taking away much of their Trade and Employment. They alſo looked upon them as uſeleſs in war for defence of the place; and were not without ſome jealouſie that they held correſpondence with the Turks, and gave Intelligence of their Affairs unto them. Yet the Souldiery dealt much with them, and Captains for the ſuddain habiting, furniſhing, and accommodating of their Companies. And dining one day with a Commander at a Jews Houſe, amongſt other Diſcourſe I asked the Jew concerning the ten Tribes, and where they were? He ſaid they were far off in Aſia, beyond a great Lake which was continually ſtormy, and ſcarce paſſable, but upon their Sabbath-day, upon which days the Jews do not willingly travel.

I have ſeen their Circumciſion at Rome, Padua, and other parts. Their Phyſicians ordinarily profeſs great skill in Urines; and the common people reſort unto them rather than unto Chriſtians, and are ſo credulous, and have ſuch an opinion of them, that they might be made to believe they have ſome old Receipts of King Solomon.

There are many Jews in Italy, yet they ſeem to me to be in greater numbers in Germany. In Amſterdam they are alſo grown very numerous. At Franckfurt they told me there were ſeven thouſand of them, which ſeemed ſcarce credible. At Colen they are in great numbers: at Hamburg not a few. But the greateſt number ſurely is in Prague.

Though they be permitted in many Countries, yet divers Chriſtian Princes and States have aſſigned them ſome mark in their Habits, to diſtinguiſh them. In Avignon their Hats are yellow. In Italy their Hats are covered over with Taffate. In Germany they wear Ruffs and Gowns with great Capes. In Holland I obſerved no diſtinction. But the Jews there, moſt of them having come out of Portugal, there may be ſome ſuſpicion of them from their Complexion.

Laſtly, when I conſider the old ſtrength of Vienna, conſiſting in an old wall and a deep ditch, I cannot much wonder that Matthias Corvinus, King of Hungary, took this City. And I muſt aſcribe it, under God, unto the ſingular valour and reſolution of the Defendants, that Solyman the Magnificent, with two hundred thouſand men, was not able to take it, and though he made large breaches, could never enter it, but loſt ſome thouſands at an Aſſault, and departed at laſt with the loſs of a great part of his Army. But this place is now in a far better condition, ſtrongly fortified, and able to reſiſt the greateſt Forces of Turky. The houſes are cleared from the wall; and yet for better ſecurity, when I was there, Count Souches adviſed the Emperour to pull down part of the Suburbs upon the other ſide of the neareſt branch of the Danube, leſt the Turks might take advantage to play upon the two Baſtions on that ſide.

It would be a ſad loſs for Chriſtendome if this place were in the hands of the Turk; and no man knows where he would reſt. If he ſhould begin with this place, and take it, the ſtrong holds of Rab, Komara, and Leopoldſtadt would want their ſupport, and ſoon fall into his poſſeſſion; and if he were Lord of Auſtria, a great part of Germany would lye bare unto him: and probably it would not be long before he viſited Italy, into which Country he would then find other ways than by Palma nova.

A JOURNEY FROM VIENNA IN AUSTRIA TO HAMBURG.

TAking a farewel of the Imperial City of Vienna, I ordered my Journey for Prague in Bohemia, which is uſually ſix days Journey by Coach in the Summer, and eight in the Winter. I went over the great Bridge of Vienna, upon the large Stream of the Danube, paſſing by the Chappel of St. Bridget, of an eight-ſquare Figure. This Bridge is a very great and maſſy work, ſupported by many high Trees, and Timber, and hath between two and three thouſand Trees laid upon it croſs, or ſide by ſide, from one ſide of the Bridge to the other, for the paſſage over it, after the German manner of making Bridges. At Ratiſbone there is a handſome Stone-bridge over the Danube, and between that place and Vienna, divers of Wood; but from Vienna to Belgrade I obſerved none but what were made with Boats.

Having paſſed the River, I entred into the Tranſ-Danubian Auſtria, or that part of Auſtria which lieth between the Danube and the River Theya, and came unto Corneuburg, a pretty Town, about which place the Emperour often hunteth; it is near the Hill Biſneberg, which is oppoſite unto Kalenberg. The Swedes advanced far when they took this place in the laſt wars, and held it ſo well, that they were not eaſily forced out of it. From thence I came to Stockerau, near the mouth of the River Mida, where it runneth into the Danube. A place much noted for the death of St. Colman a Scotch Saint, highly honoured in theſe parts. From thence to Gunterſdorff, ſo to Colnedorff or Koldorff, which although it be on the South of the River Theya, is accounted the firſt Village of Moravia, and then came unto Znaim.

In all this part of Auſtria, which extendeth a great length on the North-ſide of the Danube, conceived to have been anciently inhabited by the Marcomanni and Quadi, there are few or no Towns of antiquity, largeneſs, or note; for the Romans made their Stations and Colonies upon the South-ſide of the Danube; but the Country is full of Villages, and populous. One of the chiefeſt Towns is Crembs, which ſome call Cremona Auſtriae, which I ſaw as I came down the Danube. A great part of this Country was notably harraſſed and plundered by the Swedes. The Soyl is light, and eaſie to be ploughed.

Znaim is a handſome place, with many painted Houſes in it, and accounted the fourth chief Town in Mahren, or Moravia; Olmütz, Brün, and Iglaw being the other three, famous for the death of the Emperour Sigiſmund. It is ſeated by the River Theya, which divideth Moravia from Auſtria, and running at laſt into the River Mark, affordeth accommodation of paſſage into the Danube.

From thence we paſſed by Ulverskirken, Paulitz, and Moravian Budweiſſe to Zimmaw, and by Byrnitz came to Igla, or Iglau, upon the River Igla, which at laſt runneth into the great River Marck, a very pleaſant place, ſeated upon a Hill, on the Frontiers of Bohemia. It is well fortified à la moderna, upon one ſide, and hath one of the largeſt Piazza's that I have ſeen.

Moravia, is a pleaſant and fruitful Country affording plenty of neceſſaries for life; the people are plain-dealing, ſtout, and make good Souldiers. It is commodiouſly furniſhed with Rivers, the greateſt whereof is the Mora or Marck, which ariſing in the Northern part thereof, runneth quite through the Country, and entreth the Donaw not far from Preſburg. The other conſiderable Streams are the Theya or Thaiſa, the Swarta, the Schwitta, which run into the Marck. In the laſt Turkiſh wars the Tartars having paſſed the Wag in Hungaria, made incurſions into Moravia, and carried away ſome thouſands of the Inhabitants.

Leaving Igla, we ſoon came into Bohemia, firſt coming into Stecken, then to Teutchin Broda by the River Saczua, formerly a ſtrong place, taken by Ziſca the famous Bohemian General, who then forced the Emperour Sigiſmund to fly out of Bohemia by the way of Igla. From thence we came to Heberne, and ſo to Janikaw: At this place, upon the 24th of February, 1643. was fought that memorable Battel between the Swedes, commanded by Leonard Torſtenſon, and the Imperialiſts under Count Hatzfield, Goetz, and other Commanders. The Imperialiſts had the better at firſt; but falling upon the Enemies Baggage, and being too greedy of Booty, they were defeated, three thouſand ſlain, four thouſand taken priſonners, with their General Hatzfield, and ſix or ſeven Colonels. The ſucceſs hereof gave the Swedes advantage to proceed further, and into Sileſia and Auſtria. In this Town meeting with a Gentleman who came from Schaclitz, which is not far from the Riſgeburg, or Mountain of Gyants, about the Head of the River Elbe, I enquired of him concerning the ſpirit Ribenſal, which is ſaid to infeſt that Country, but he could ſay nothing therein of his own knowledge; and though he was confident that there was ſuch a Spirit, yet he confeſſed that for twelve years it had done no hurt. In Hills, Mountains, and places of Mines ſuch reports are ordinary. It is reported that a Spirit haunts the Silver Mines of Brunſwick: And another to be in the Tinn Mine of Slackenwalde in this Country of Bohemia, and to walk in the ſhape of a Monk, who ſtrikes the Miners, ſings and plays on the Bag-pipes, and doth many ſuch Tricks. And Agricola in the latter end of his Sixth Book Dere Metallica, gives this for one reaſon why Mines, or paſſages in Mines, are given over.

From Janikaw I travelled to Czaſlaw, a good Town, and the chiefeſt in the Czaſlawer Circle: In this place they ſay that Ziſca was buried, that famous Bohemian General; he loſt one Eye by an Arrow, and was at length blind of both, yet gave not over the war, and proved ſucceſsful in it. He wiſhed his Friends to make a Drum of his Skin, which ſhould ſerve to fright away their Enemies. And though he cared not for any Sepulchral Monument, yet he had one in this place.

From Czaſlaw we came to Guttenberg, or Cottenberg, about eight Bohemian miles from Prague, every mile being five or ſix Engliſh miles. A large Town, and much frequented, not far from the River Albis or Elbe, of eſpecal note for the Silver Mines about it: The Hills near it are not high, and conſequently the Mines are not ſo deep as thoſe of Hungary, and ſome others in Germany; yet ſome are above ſeventy or eighty Fathoms. They have wrought at theſe Mines ſeven hundred years, and there are about thirty of them. I went down into that which was firſt digged, but afterwards left for a long time, but they work there now again, it is called the Cotna, or Auf der Cotten, upon the Cotten, or Coat-hill; and as the Story goeth, a Monk walking over this Hill found a kind of a Silver Tree ſticking to his Garment, which was the occaſion that they afterwards digged and built theſe Mines, and the place retains the name of Cottenberg.

The Mine into which I deſcended near the Town, is but nineteen Fathoms deep; the chief Vein of the Ore runneth South, and is about a foot in breadth: the Ore holdeth or containeth in it Silver and Copper, ſo that out of an hundred pound weight of Ore, they ordinarily get an Ounce of Silver, and eight, nine, or ten ounces or more of Copper, even to pounds, but it is not well known, for the Copper-works are the Emperours. The Undertakers get out what Silver they can, and afterwards ſell the Ore unto the Emperours Officers; but ſome Ore is ſorich as to contain eight or nine ounces of Silver. A blew Earth which they meet with in digging, affords the beſt hopes of Ore. Two men lately periſhed in this Mine, having made a fire in it, being either choaked with the ſmoak, or, as they thought, by the poyſonous exhalations forced out of the Minerals by the fire. I have read that Libuſſa the Princeſs, and reputed Sorcereſs of Bohemia, foretold many things concerning theſe Mines; but certain it is, that for the advantage and profit theſe bring, the Town hath ſuffered much in many wars. The Emperour Sigiſmund made haſte out of it upon the approach of Ziſca, and ſeeing he could not hold it, burnt the Town; but it was ſoon rebuilt and poſſeſſed by Ziſca, whoſe party called it the Purſe of Antichriſt.

Leaving Cottenburg, I came to Colline and to Bohemian Broda, ſo named to diſtinguiſh it from Dutch or Teutonick Broda before mentioned, a conſiderable good Town, and from thence came to Prag, or Prague, the Capital and Royal City of the Kingdom of Bohemia. The Walls of this City ſeem to encloſe the greateſt Citcuit of ground of any I have ſeen in Germany, but the Hills and void ſpaces within it take up a large Tract, and therein it is like the City of Lyon in France; it is ſeated upon the River Muldau, by the Bohemians named Ultaue, a large rapid River, ariſing in the South part of Bohemia, and before at arriveth at Prague, receiveth the River Sarſua and the Watta into it; and Northward of Prague the River Egra, and joyneth with the Elbe.

This great place conſiſteth of three Towns, named the Old, the New, and the Kleine Seitten, or leſſer Town. The old Town lieth upon the Eaſt of the River Muldau, is very populous, full of Buildings, private and publick. Very conſiderable in this part is alſo the Univerſity, wherein are great numbers of Students and Scholars, there being but one Univerſity in Bohemia; many perſons alſo reſorting thither from other Countries. It is ſcarce credible what is reported of the number of Scholars in Prague in former Ages, as hath been delivered by divers Authors. And Lewis du May, Counſellor unto the Duke of Wittenburg, affirmeth, That there are at preſent ſcarce ſo many Students in all Germany, as there were at Prague in the year 1409. when they reckoned above Forty thouſand under the Rectorſhip of John Hus. Charles the Fourth, Emperour, and King of Bohemia, founded the Univerſity of Prague, giving equal priviledges to the Bohemians, Polanders, and Germans: and when he would retrench his favours towards Strangers, there went out of the Town in a weeks time twenty four thouſand Scholars, and a little after, ſixteen thouſand, whereby we may judge there were more Scholars in Prague than other perſons in ſome great Cities. There are alſo in this old Town divers Colledges and Cloyſters. The Jeſuites have a fair, handſome Colledge, near unto the Bridge, but the Buildings of the old Town are inferiour to thoſe of the leſſer Town.

The new Town is large, and together with the River, encompaſſeth the old, and is divided from it by a large Trench or Ditch, in o which they can let in the River. The Iriſh have a Cloyſter of Franciſcans near unto an old Tower in the Wall of the old Town. The Jeſuites have alſo begun a large Cloyſter, which, if finiſhed according to its beginning and deſign, will be very ſpacious and noble. They are now making Baſtions about the Town at one end thereof; there is alſo a Citadel, but not finiſhed, at Wiſſeraht, or Wiſſegrade, formerly the Seat of the Princes of Bohemia, and alſo of the famous Princeſs Libuſſa, the Daughter of Crocus, and Wife unto Primiſlaus.

The Kleine Seitten, or leſſer Prague, far exceedeth the other for pleaſantneſs and beauty of Buildings and fair Palaces. This part lieth Weſtward of the River Muldaw, which between this and the old Town, is paſſable by a ſtrong Stone-bridge, conſiſting of ſixteen great Arches, being about Seventeen hundred foot long, and Thirty five foot broad, and two open Gates under two high Towers of Stone at each end. A great part of this Town lieth high, and upon the Hill ſtandeth Hratſchin, or Upper Prague, and a Summer Houſe of the Emperours, beſides a Magnificent Palace of the Emperours, as King of Bohemia; and by it a fair Cathedral Church dedicated to St. Veit, firſt built by St. Wenceſlaus, Duke of Bohemia, 923. from whence the Town and River is beſt viewed. In this Church are divers old Monuments for great Perſons; as for Pogiebrachius a Bohemian King, Wenceſlaus, Rodolphus the Second, Charles the Fourth, Ladiſlaus, Maximilian the Second, and other Arch-Dukes and Emperours. There are alſo many Houſes of the Nobility in this part of the City. The Palace and Garden of Colaredo is exceeding neat, though ſmall. But I was moſt pleaſed with the Palace of Count Wallenſteyn, Duke of Friedland, General unto the Emperour Ferdinand the Second, who being ſuſpected to Uſurp that Kingdom, was afterwards killed at Egra. This Palace was built upon the Ruins of an hundred Houſes, purpoſely plucked down to make room for it; wherein the Hall is large, the Garden handſome; upon one ſide whereof there is a place to manage Horſes, and near unto it a Fiſh-pond: in another part there is a noble Aviary with a Garden and Trees in it, after the manner of the Aviary of Prince Doria at Genoa, which is eighty paces long, and eighteen broad. The Stable is large, and worth the ſeeing, wherein there is a Marble Pillar between each Horſe, and for every Horſe there is placed in a nich of the Wall a Rack of Steel, and Manger of Marble, and over his Head hangeth a Picture of the Horſe, as big as the Life, with his Name under it. Among the reſt, I obſerved that a Bay-horſe had for his Name Monte d'Oro, a Mare, Bella donna, another Eſpagnoletta, and his moſt beloved Horſe was named Mas Querido.

Some have thought that the beſt high German is ſpoken in this part of Prague; and there living ſo many of the Nobility and great Perſons, it is not to be wondred at, that their Language is better than ordinary. But the common Language of Bohemia is a Dialect of the Sclavonian, though very many ſpeak alſo High dutch, as we found in all our paſſage through that Country. Koningſmark being with his Forces on the Frontiers of Bohemia, a diſcontented Colonel of the Imperialiſts came unto him, making it probable that he might ſurprize Hratſchin, and the leſſer ſide of Prague, which he ſuddainly attempted, and ſo ſucceſsfully, that he ſurprized many Officers, and old Colaredo in his Bed, getting ſo great a Booty, that he could ſcarce carry it away.

A part of Prague is inhabited by Jews, and called the Jews Town; there are no ſmall number of them, and many rich, as trading in all Commodities, and have good skill in Jewels, and ſeveral ſorts of Stones digged out of the Mines in Bohemia: I bought ſome Bohemian Topazes of them, neatly cut and well-figured, and ſome which were very large and clear, were at the rate of ſeven or eight Dollars. During my ſtay here, I had a great deſire to have ſaluted Johannes Marcus-Marci, a famous Phyſician and Philoſopher of Prague, and alſo to have induced him to a Correſpondence with the Royal Society, but I underſtood that he had left this World, to the great grief of Learned Men in theſe and other parts.

Many here do ſpeak ſtill of John Hus and Jerome of Prague, and I have ſeen Silver Medals of them. They were ſurely very notable men; and I ſhall only ſet down what Aeneas Sylvius, or Pope Pius the Second ſaid of them. Johannes aetate major & authoritate, doctrinâ & facundiâ ſuperior Hieronymus, pertulerunt ambo conſtanti animo necem, & quaſi ad Epulum invitati ad incendium properarunt, nullam emittentes vocem quae miſeri animi poſſet ferre indicium: ubi ardere ceperunt, hymnum cecinere quem vix flamma & fragor ignis intercipere potuit, nemo Philoſophorum tam forti animo mortem pertuliſse traditur quam iſti incendium. In Hiſt. Bohemica. John was or greater years and authority, Jerome of more Eloquence and Learning: both of them endured their Death with great conſtancy, and went unto the fire as though invited to a Banquet: when they began to burn, they ſung an Hymn, which the flame and fire could ſcarce intercept. None of the old Philoſophers endured their death with ſuch a courageous mind as theſe the fire.

The ſame Author compareth Prague unto the City of Florence in Tuſcany, wherefore having ſeen both places, I cannot omit to ſay ſomething. I had a view of the City of Florence from the top of the Domo, or Cathedral, and of Prague from the Church of St. Veit, upon the Hill in the leſſer Town: Prague ſeemed to my eye to contain a far greater Circuit than Florence; it ſeemed alſo more populous, and to exceed it very much in the number of People, the Streets larger, and the Windows of Palaces and fair Houſes being of Glaſs, looked not ſo tatterdly as the ragged Paper Windows of Florence. The River Arno, which runs through Florence, is not to be compared with the Muldau at Prague, having run about an hundred miles from its Head. The large, maſſy, long Stone-Bridge exceedeth any of, if not all, the four Bridges of Florence. The Emperours Palace alſo upon the Hill is very ſtately: But as for the well-paved Streets of Florence, the Domo or Cathedral with black and white Marble, with a Cupola, ſecond only to that of St. Peters of Rome, for the incomparable Chappel of St. Laurence, and the Dukes Gallery and Rarities, I muſt confeſs I ſaw not any thing in Prague which anſwered them. At Weiſſenberg, or the white Hill near Prague, that deciding Battel was fought Novemb. 8. 1620. between Frederick Prince Palatine of the Rhine, elected King of Bohemia, and the Forces of the Emperour Ferdinand the Second, which gave ſuch a deep blow unto the Proteſtant Party, wherein ſo many of Frederick's Forces were ſlain and drowned in the River in their ſlight, wherein alſo that famous Commander Papenheim was found lying among the dead, who notwithſtanding died not of his wounds, but was reſerved to end his days with the King of Sweden in the memorable Battel of Lutzen.

From Prague I deſigned to paſs by water down the Muldaw, which uniteth with the Elbe about Melnick, and ſo down the Elbe unto Hamburg. But the Winter advancing, and the Weather proving cold, the Boats did not go as in Summer, and therefore I took my Journey by Land, and leaving Prague and the Muldau on the right hand, I paſſed the firſt day to Zagethal, the next to Weluerne, and ſo to Budin and Labaſitz upon the Elbe. Having paſſed over the Egra, a conſiderable River, ariſing not far from the City of Egra, and at laſt running into the Elbe; the next day by the Caſtle of Kriegſtein, or Warreſtone, ſeated upon a high ſteep Rock, I came to Auſig, a ſmall City not far from the Elbe, having little remarkable in it, like many other ſmall Cities of Bohemia, and ſo forward to Nolndorff, where we lodged upon Mount Kninſberg, the day after we entred into Miſnia, paſſing by Peterſwald, and Hellendorff the firſt Village in Miſnia, and Kiſibel, where are Iron Mines about eighteen Fathoms deep, and Iron works.

We now underſtood that Bohemia was a larger Country than we expected; it lieth round, and ſome ſay it is three days poſtage over; others that the Diameter extendeth two hundred miles. From Igla upon the Confines unto Hellendorff, it took me nine days Journey in November by Coach, not reckoning the time I ſtaid at Prague. In many places there are very ill Paſſages, and ſo rudely mended with great Trees, laid ſide by ſide, that they are often very troubleſome to paſs.

We travelled afterwards towards Dreſden, in a fruitful Country, wherein were many Deer in moſt parts of the way, in ſight of the Caſtle of Pilnitz, a ſtrong place, and ſeated high. I could not but caſt an eye on the Rocks behind us in the Foreſt of Bohemia, which looked like the Ruines of a Wall which formerly encloſed Bohemia, which Country is deſcribed with a Foreſt or Woods round about it. But I confeſs I did not really perceive that there was ſuch a Wood round about it as is commonly ſet forth in Mapps; only both within, and alſo in many parts of the Borders, there are great Woods which are conceived to have been part of the Hercinian Foreſt.

The Bohemians are a ſtrong, ſtout, and hardy People, make good Souldiers, and have made great wars both at home and abroad; and Hiſtories are full of their warlike Exploits. The chief Magazine of the King is at Egra, a ſtrong City, accounted the Second of Bohemia. The Country affordeth alſo luſty and ſtrong Horſes. The common ſort of People are boyſterous, rough, and quarrelſome, eſpecially in drink, whereto they are too much addicted. The Nobility and Gentry are civil and kind unto Strangers. There are many great Families of the Nobility, among which that of Roſenberg and Popel is ancient, and of high eſteem. Since the unhappy accepting of the Crown by Frederick Count Palatine, and the ill ſucceſs upon it, there hath been a great alteration in this Country, both as to People and their Manners; for thereupon many thouſands left the Kingdom, and many who remained, turned their Religion. And the Emperours have uſed the like ſeverity upon others in their Hereditary Dominions.

The next conſiderable place we came unto was Dreſden in Miſnia, as well worth the ſeeing, as almoſt any Town in Germany. Dreſden is the Seat and Reſidence of the Elector of Saxony, ſeated upon the River Elbe, over which there is a very noble Stone-bridge of Seventeen Arches. The City is very well fortified after the Modern way, the Baſtions Reveſtues, and in each Baſtion a Cavallier: It hath alſo a large Trench or Ditch about it, in ſome places double; and the River Elbe addeth unto its ſtrength. The Walls are very ſtrong: and they ſay, that when the firſt Stone was laid to build them, there was placed in the Earth a Silver Cup gilded, a Book of the Laws, and another of Coyns, and three Glaſſes filled with Wine. It hath alſo three Gates. The places moſt worth the ſeeing are theſe: The Italian Garden in the Suburbs; the Hunters Houſe in the old Town beyond the River; the Electors Palace; his Houſe for wild Beaſts; his Stablehouſe and Arſenal, of which I ſhall ſet down ſome things obſervable in their kind. In the Electors Palace, the Hall is very large, and handſomely painted with Cities, Gyants, and the Habits of ſeveral Nations, and ſet out with ſeven large branched Candleſticks: But that which affordeth the greateſt delight is his Kunſtkammer, Art-Chamber, or Collection of Rarities, both of Art and Nature. In the firſt Partition are to be ſeen all manner of well-made Inſtruments belonging to moſt Trades, as Joyners, Turners, Barbers, Smiths, Chirurgeons, and other Artificers: Inſtruments to force open Doors, Cheſts, &c. In the other Chambers theſe and the like are obſervable.

A Tube-glaſs four Ells long. A large blew Turkiſh-glaſs. Variety of Coral and artificial Works of it. Fowls made out of Mother of Pearl. Drinking Cups in the ſhape of Dragons, Elephants, &c. Caſtles of Gold and Mother of Pearl. Many Fowls and Cups made out of Nautili, and other Shells, and out of Oeſtrich-eggs. A fine Oeſtrich made out of its Egg, with the Feathers of Gold. A Cup made out of the Ball taken our of an Oxes Stomach, richly ſet, about a foot long. A Stone as big as my fiſt, like a Bezoar-ſtone, taken out of a Horſe. A Purſe made out of the Linum Incombuſtibile. Silver Ore from the Mines of Freiberg, almoſt pure, in ſtrings and ſhoots. A Natural Croſs of Silver Ore. One hundred and twenty one Heads carved on the outſide of a Cherry-ſtone. A Religious Man or Frier of Japan carved in Box. A Chryſtal Cabinet, ſold by Oliver Cromwell, wherein is kept a Ring which hath Stones in it in the ſhape of a Caſtle. His Majeſty King Charles the Second on Horsback, carved out of Iron. A Head of King Charles the Firſt. A Glaſs Organ, Topazes unpoliſhed, ten Inches in Diameter. A Cup out of a Topaze. Emeralds an inch in Diameter, as they grow in the Rock, reſembling the Vitriolum Nativum, as I ſaw it in Paradiſe-hill by Schemnitz in Hungary. Stones named Thunder ſtones, ſmelling of Fire. Rocks made out of all ſorts of Ore, and the names of the places written upon them from whence they were digged.

The Figures of Fiſhes in Stones out of Mansfield; the Stones are dark-coloured, but the Fiſhes of a Gold or Copper colour. All ſorts of Stones which are to be found about Saxony and Miſnia poliſhed. Two large pieces of pure Virgin Gold out of the Mine. A Cabinet of all ſorts of Apothecaries Inſtruments and chief Druggs. A Hart with a Cabinet made in his ſide, containing all Medicines taken from a Hart. A white Hart as big as the Life, made out of the ſhavings and filings of Harts horn, and looking like Plaiſter. Figures printed in Trees. A Spur in part of a Tree. Horns in Trees.

A Chamber of all manner of Mathematical Inſtruments and Charts. A good Library of Mathematical Books An Unicorns-horn, which they will have to be of a Land Unicorn, being neither wreathed nor hollow. A Dart of Unicorns-horn. Among the Pictures in the ſame Chambers theſe ſeemed remarkable: A Picture by Colier, of the Siege of Jeruſalem, with great number of Figures, and highly eſteemed. Four Heads of the Elements made out of the Creatures which belong to them in Caricatura. A painting of Merchants Letters ſtuck behind green Tape. A Storm by Rubens. Two Nuns by Lucas van Leyden. A Picture of Dr. Luther in the Cloyſter, in his Gown, and after his Death. There is alſo great variety of excellent Clockwork, and an attempt for a perpetual motion by a rowling bullet. A Cuckow ſingeth by Clockwork, a Horſman rideth, a Ship ſaileth, an old Woman walketh, a Centaur runneth and ſhooteth, a Crab creepeth upon a Table ſo well as to amaze and delight; but among all, the Crab ſeems to be moſt naturally imitated.

In the Stable houſe, beſides the extraordinary noble Stable of Horſes, wherein every Horſe eats out of a Rack of Iron, and Manger of Copper; and on a Pillar by him his Comb, Bridle and Saddle, and other Neceſſaries, hang; beſides a handſome Window with a Curtain before him. There are obſervable a very fair Fountain and pond ſet about with handſome Balliſters, where the Horſes are watered. A long walk arched and painted with Horſes; over which is a Gallery with the Pictures of all the Dukes and Electors of Saxony, both in their Military and Electoral Habits. Two Beds of Marble. Drinking Cups which ſeem not great, yet ſo contrived as to hold divers quarts. A Spring which cauſeth a Horſeman in Silver to come riding in, bringing a Cup of Wine in his hand. A pair of noble Piſtols with all the Stories of the New and Old Teſtament upon them. A Glaſs Gun. A Gun which ſhoots off Forty times without charging again. A Piece which ſheweth the manner of the firſt invention of ſtriking Fire in Guns. A Lock without a cock.

A Chamber of rich Sleds for Horſes, made uſe of in Jollity and pompous Courſes upon the Snow. A white Bears skin ſtuffed. Tigers and Lyons Skins. A Caſſowares Skin. Good Armour for Men and Horſes. Many ſorts of Indian Mony, Duntans, and other ſorts. A Picture of Laplanders and their Cuſtoms. A Lapland Drum with Figures to conjure by. A Chamber of all Hunting Arms and Neceſſaries.

The Armamentarium-Armory or Arſenal, is a long, ſquare Building, wherein are about Four hundred braſs Pieces of Ordinance, great number of Muskets and Armour in the Upper Room. Silver Coats of Male. Pieces of Ordinance to be charged behind. Retorts and Alembicks in the ſhape of Granados. The Steeple of the chief Church was lately burnt by Lightning, and the Canon melted which were upon it.

In the Hunting-houſe, in the old Town, are fifteen Bears very well provided for and looked unto. They have Fountains and Ponds to waſh themſelves in, wherein they much delight: And near to the Pond are high ragged Poſts or Trees ſet up for the Bears to climb up, and Scaffolds made at the top to ſun and dry themſelves; where they will alſo ſleep, and come and go as the Keeper calls them. The Horn Gallery is alſo remarkable in this place, out of which there are three Chambers; one painted with ſeveral ſorts of Hunting; another with all ſorts of Fowl; and a third with great variety of Beaſts.

depiction of the bear garden at Dresden, Meissen, Germany, featuring five bears, three on poles or platforms, one on the ground, and one swimming in a pool or pond

The Elector of Saxony his Beare Garden at Dresden in Misnia.

Oliuer. Fe

In the Houſe for wild Beaſts I took notice of a Marian, which is a four-footed Beaſt, that hangeth upon Trees by the Tail. Alſo a wild or Mountain-Cat of a large ſize. Five young Bears. Five old black Bears. A white Bear very large; the feet, the head, and the neck are longer than thoſe of the black, but not ſo thick. Two Lyons. Ten Luekſes; very fine Beaſts, in bigneſs, colour, and ſhape between a Tiger and a wild Cat; the tips of their Ears and Tails are black, their Eyes lively, their Skin Lyon coloured, and ſpotted, eſpecially about their Eyes.

The Italian Garden and Summer-houſe in the Suburbs is very noble, wherein are two Obelisks, two gallant Fountains, a Theatre and good Landskips. This Garden and Summer houſe were built by two of the Prince Electour's Eunuchs, and afterwards ſold unto the Prince for Six and twenty thouſand Dollars.

Dreſden is but a late City, and was formerly a Village. The Churfurſt, or Elector, was not in the Town; but the Chur-prince his Son was there: A Perſon rather of low than middle Stature, his Hair long and yellow, his Face ruddy, his Body well ſet and active, and he is very well beloved. The preſent Elector of Saxony is John George the Second, Grand Marſhal of the Empire, a great and powerful Prince, who keeps a Royal Court and Attendance, having his Guards and Officers after the manner of Kings. His Dominions lye in Miſnia, Thuringia Voytland, and part of Luſatia. His Revenues are large, from Impoſitions upon Commodities. His Profits great, from the Tax upon Beer, which ariſeth to no ſmall ſum, eſpecially in Wittenberg, Torga, and Leipſick. And his Silver Mines are conſiderable. And the Funeral of the laſt Electour Joannes Georgius the Firſt, was very magnificent 1657. at which there were twenty four Horſes of State covered with black, and the Electoral Eſcutcheon embroydered thereon, and every one led by two Gentlemen, and three thouſand five hundred perſons in mourning.

Dr. Luthers Holiday was kept when I was there. The chief Church is very fair: They preach every morning at ſeven a Clock. The Lutheran women mourn in white, as others do in Black: and the woman of the Houſe doth ordinarily ſay Grace inſtead of the man. The beſt Highdutch is ſpoken in this place, and other parts of Miſnia, which is a very pleaſant fruitful Country, and full of good Towns and Villages.

Leaving this noble place, I took not the neareſt Road, but turned out of the way unto Freiberg, a place noted for Silver Mines; whereof I had read ſomething in Agricola, and heard very much in theſe parts. About an Engliſh mile or two from Freiberg, there are many remarkable Mines. I took notice of three of them: One called Auff den hohen berg, or upon the high Hill, which is the deepeſt in theſe parts, as being ſeventy ſeven of their Fathoms deep; each of their Fathoms contains twelve of their Ells, and three of their Ells makes one of our Fathoms. So that the depth of this Mine exceedeth any of thoſe wherein I was in Hungary. There is another Mine called Himmelfurſt, or the Prince of Heaven, wherein not long ſince there was Ore found ſo rich, as in an hundred pounds weight to contain an hundred and thirty Marks of Silver, or ſixty five pounds in the hundred, but there was not much of it: And where the Veyns are richeſt, they are obſerved to be thineſt, about two ſingers broad; but the ordinary Ore is but poor, holding an ounce, or an ounce and a half, in an hundred pounds weight; and if it holdeth but half an ounce they work it. Nor is this much to be wondered at, for in the vaſt rich Mines of Peru and Chili, they will work the Silver Ore which containeth four or five ounces in a hundred pound weight, and ten or twelve ounces is the ordinary rate of the common Ore of that rich Mountain of Potoſi, out of which Hill alone, if we believe Albero Alonſo Barba, Curate of the Pariſh of St. Bernard in that City, there hath been more Silver taken than would cover all Miſnia over and over: For thus he ſaith, Potoſi hath already yielded between four and five hundred Millions of pieces of Eight. A quantity ſufficient to make ſuch another Hill of Silver: It is hard to form a conception equal unto ſo exorbitant a heap of Riches; but the better to help our imagination herein, know, that if the Ground were covered with ſo many pieces of Eight, laid as cloſe to one another as is poſſible, they would take up the ſpace of ſixty Leagues ſquare.

Here at Freiberg they have many ways to open the Ore whereby it may be melted; as by Lead and a ſort of Silver Ore which holds Lead in it. They have alſo Sulphur Ore found here, which after it is burned, doth help much towards the fuſion of Metals: And beſides theſe, Slich, or pounded and waſhed Ore; and Slacken, which is the Droſs or Cake, or Skum taken out of the Vortiegel, or Pan which receiveth the melted Minerals let out at the bottom of the melting Furnace. Their Treibſhearth, or driving Furnace, where the Litharge is driven off, agreeth better with the Figure of it in Agricola, than thoſe of Hungary; ſome of the Litharge is green: Their Buckwork and their Engines which pound the Ore, the Coal, and Clay, are alſo very neat. Much of their Ore is waſhed, eſpecially the pooreſt, and that which is mixed with ſtones, quarts, or ſparrs.

This is peculiar in their working, that they burn the pounded and waſhed Ore in the Roaſthearth, before they melt it in the Smeltzoven, or melting Furnace.

At theſe Mines of Hungary where I was, they uſed not the Virgula divina, or forked Hazel, to find out Silver Ore, or hidden Treaſure in the Earth; and I ſhould little depend thereon: but here they have an eſteem of it. And I obſerved the uſe thereof, and the manner how they did it. But I ſhall omit the Deſcription of it, becauſe it is ſet down in divers Books, and it cannot be ſo well deſcribed as ſhown to the Eye.

I ſaw alſo another Mine, called Auff der Halſbrucker, about eighty of our Fathoms deep, and much worked: They have divers ſorts of Ore; but they contain either Silver and Copper, Silver and Lead, or all three; but they work them only for Silver. They have divers damps in theſe Mines, where it is deep. The Mines are cold where the outward Air comes in; but where not, warm. The greateſt trouble they have is by duſt, which ſpoileth their Lungs and Stomachs, and frets their Skins. But they are not ſo much troubled with water; and have very good Engins to draw the water out.

The Sulphur, or Brimſtone Ore which is found here, is alſo rich; it is hard and ſtony, as other Ores are: that which hath red ſpots is accounted the beſt. They uſe a peculiar Furnace to melt the Brimſtone from the Ore; ſome whereof yieldeth three pounds of Sulphur out of an hundred weight of Ore, which as it melteth runneth out of the Furnace into water, or the Exhalations from the Ore near or in the Fire, are condenſed into Brimſtone by the Surface of the Water placed to receive it; this is once again melted and purified. Some of the Brimſtone Ore containeth Silver, ſome Copper, and ſome both in a ſmall proportion.

depiction of two German miners and their tools Two Miners in their habits

Virgula Divina

The figure of an Iron retort ſuch as are vſed at the quickſilver worke at Idria.

The other uſe, and which is more conſiderable, is for the making of Vitriol, or Copperoſe in this manner: They take the Ore out of which the Brimſtone hath been already melted, and burn it once again, or let it ſtill burn in the open Air; then putting it into a large Fatt, they pour water upon it, ſo as to imbibe and drink in the Vitriol; this Water is afterwards boyled to a ſufficient height, and let out into the Coolers, where ſticks are ſet in it, as in the making of Sugar Candy: The pureſt Chryſtallized Vitriol ſticks unto the wood, the reſt to the ſides and bottom. Thus the Sulphur Ore, after the Sulphur is taken out of it, ſtill worketh upon the Silver Ore, and openeth the Body of it in the Fire; but when this Ore is alſo deprived of its Vitriol, it worketh no more upon Metals.

Friberg is a round well-walled City; hath handſome Streets, a Piazza, the Elector's Caſtle, and five Gates. the Church of St. Peter is fair, where many of the Dukes and Ducal Family have been buried, and have fair Monuments; eſpecially Duke Mauritius, Elector of Saxony, whoſe Monument in black Marble is raiſed three piles high, adorned with many fair Statua's in Alabaſter and white Marble, and eſteemed one of the nobleſt, if not the beſt, in Germany. And when this Town was ſurrendred unto Holck and Gallas, Octob. 5. 1632. the Duke of Saxony paid 80000 Dollars to ſave the Monuments of his Predeceſſours from being ranſacked and defaced, it being the faſhion of divers German Princes to be buried in their Robes, with their Enſigns of Honour, Rings, Jewels, and the like, which would have been booty, and probably have run the ſame fortune as the Cloiſter of Haibron, within twelve Engliſh miles of Nurenberg, where ſome of the Marquiſſes of Onſpach, who are of the Electoral Houſe of Brandenburg, lye entombed, where Tillie's Souldiers brake open the Vault, and robbed the dead Corpſes of the Marquiſſes, George Frederick, and Joachim Erneſt, of the Jewels, Rings, and other rich Ornaments with which they were entombed.

There are ſome Vaults and Subterraneous Cavities in the City, by which there are paſſages into the Mines. This place was formerly ſtreightly beſieged by the Emperour Adolphus, for the ſpace of a year and a month, and at laſt betrayed by a Fugitive, who let in a party of the Emperours into the Town by a Subterraneous Paſſage near St. Donats Gate, and upon the continual Batteries made at the Town, and concuſſion of the Earth about it, the Earth ſunk down in many places, and ſwallowed great numbers of the Emperours Army.

Theſe Mines afford great benefit unto the City, and alſo unto the Elector; They are ſaid to have been found out in the year 1180. But there have been other Silver Mines diſcovered ſince; as at Schneeberg, at Anneberg, and at Joachims Dale, 1526.

Having paſſed ſome time at Friberg, I ordered my Journey for Leipſick, and travelling by Waltheim and Coldick, came unto it.

Leipſick is ſeated upon the River Elſter, which ariſing in Vortland, or Terra Advocatorum, paſſeth by it, and afterwards runneth into the River Sala. It is a rich and great trading City; hath three Marts in the year, and great reſort unto it from many parts: It is well-built, and divers Houſes are ſeven ſtories high. The Caſtle is ſtrictly guarded, and hath in it a ſtrong white Town: But the Works about the Town are not very conſiderable, although they might be made ſtrong.

The Church of St. Nicholas is well adorned, and hath the name to be the faireſt within ſide of any Lutheran Church in Germany; they have alſo a remarkable Burialplace or Godtſaker, walled about, and cloyſtered near the Wall, wherein the better ſort are buried, as the reſt in the middle and open part. Which put me in mind of that noble Burial-place which I ſaw at Piſa in Tuſcany, called Il campo Santo, becauſe the Earth which the Emperour Frederick Barbaroſſa brought from the Holy Land, for the Ballaſt of his Ships, was laid upon that Ground.

Leipſick is famous for two great Battels fought near unto it in the laſt Swediſh wars; one between Guſtavus Adolphus, King of Sweden, and Count Tilly, General of the Imperialiſts, 1631. wherein the Swedes obtained a great Victory. Tilly was wounded, fled, and lived not long after. Another ſome years after in the ſame place, wherein Leonard Torſtenſon the Swede, overcame Archduke Leopoldus Gulielmus, and Octavio Piccolomini, Generals of the Imperial Army. And about a mile and a half from hence, at Lutzen, another great Battel was fought, 1632. between the King of Sweden and the Imperial Army, commanded by Albert Wallenſteyn Duke of Friedland, wherein the Swedes obtained the Victory, but the King of Sweden was ſlain; and on the Imperial ſide that famous Commander, Godfrey Count of Pappenheim.

There is alſo an Univerſity at Leipſick, firſt occaſioned by the German Scholars of Prague, who in the troubles of the Huſſites came hither, to the number of Two thouſand in one day; and is ſtill one of the Three Univerſities in the Elector's Dominions; the other being Jena by the River Sala, and Wittenberg upon the Elbe. In this Univerſity they are much addicted to the ſtudy of the Law, but there are alſo Learned men in other Faculties.

The Magiſtrates of Leipſick are alſo conſiderable. Der herr von Adlerſhelme was the Burgomaſter, a courteous Learned Perſon, and great Virtuoſo, who had collected and obſerved many things: He hath had five fair Daughters brought up in all commendable ways of working, Drawing, Painting, Inlaying with Flowers, with Mother of Pearl, Stones, and other pretty Works. And they ſpeak divers Languages, which they learned at a School in Holland: So that his Houſe hath a great deal of excellent Furniture of his Childrens work, and is one of the moſt conſiderable Curioſities to be ſeen in Leipſick. His Summer-houſe is handſome, painted both within and without: And in the Water about, are Muſcovy Ducks, Indian Geeſe, and divers rare Fowls. In his Chamber of Rarities there are many things conſiderable: But I have ſeen divers of them in other places, and lately ſet down ſome Varieties of the Elector of Saxony, I ſhall mention but a few.

An Elephants Head with the dentes molares in it. An Animal like an Armadillo, but the Scales are much larger, and the Tail broader. Very large flying Fiſhes. A Seahorſe. Bread of Mount Libanus. A Cedar-branch with the Fruit upon it. Large Granates as they grow in the Mine. A Sirens hand. A Chameleon made out of a Fiſh. A piece of Iron, which ſeemeth to be the head of a Spear, found in the Tooth of an Elephant, the Tooth being grown about it. The Iſle of Jerſcy drawn by our King. A piece of Wood with the Blood of King Charles the Firſt upon it. A Greenland Lance with a large Bell at the end of it. Much Japan painting, wherein their manner of hunting and working may be obſerved. A Picture of our Saviour, the Hatches of which are writing, or written, and contain the ſtory of his Paſſion. Bevers taken in the River Elbe. A Picture of the murther of the Innocents, done by Albert Durer. Pictures of divers ſtrange Fowls. A Greenland Boat. The Skins of white Bears, Tigres, Hilves, and other Beaſts. And I muſt not omit the Garter of an Engliſh Bride, with the ſtory of it; of the Faſhion in England for the Bridemen to take it off, and wear it in their Hat, which ſeemed ſo ſtrange to the Germans, that I was obliged to confirm it to them, by aſſuring them that I had divers times wore ſuch a Garter my ſelf.

Leaving this buſie and trading City of Leipſick, I directed my Journey unto Magdeburg, and travelled through a plain Country, between the River Sala and the Elbe, by Landſberg, nigh to Peterſdorff, where there is a ſmall Hill which overlooks all the Country, ſo to Kihten, the Reſidence of the Prince of Anhalt, then to Caln, and over the River Sala, before it runneth into the Elbe, which ariſing at Mount Fichtelberg, now haſtneth towards it. Fichtelberg is a conſiderable Mountain, near which are divers Mines, Bathes, and Mineral-waters, of which Gaſpar Bruſchius hath written a Deſcription. And from it ariſe four Rivers, running to the four quarters of the World. The Maine or Moenus, towards the Weſt; the Nab or Nabus, towards the South; the Aeger towards the Eaſt; and the forementioned Sala towards the North. Theſe four afterwards fall into the three greateſt Rivers of Germany, the Danube, the Rhine, and the Elbe. Then to Sals or Saltz, a placed noted for Salt-ſprings, and that night to Magdeburg.

Parthenopolis, or Magdeburg, is ſeated by the River Elbe, formerly the Metropolitan City of Germany, now under the Marquiſs of Brandenburg, of very great Circuit, but little more than half built again, ſince it was ſacked and burnt by Tilly, and Thirty ſix thouſand perſons put to the Sword and deſtroyed. I could not but obſerve the ruinous and deſtructive effects of the late wars in many parts of Germany, but not in any ſo great and flouriſhing a place as this: And a man might think, that after this great deſtruction of Houſes and People, this place ſhould not be able to ſtand a Siege; yet a few years after it was beſieged by General Hatzfield, unto whom (Bannier the Swede not being able to relieve it) it was yielded. The Cathedral Church is very fair, and built like an Engliſh one, by the Emperour Otho the Firſt, and his Empreſs Editha, an Engliſh woman, Daughter unto King Edmund, whoſe Effigies in Stone I ſaw in the Church, with nineteen Tuns of Gold by her which ſhe gave thereto. And to ſay the truth, Engliſh mony hath done great things in Germany, for hereby, or with a good part thereof, this Church was built or endowed. Leopoldus, Duke of Auſtria, built the old Walls of Vienna with the ranſome of King Richard the Firſt, whom he detained in his return through Auſtria from the Holy Land. King Edward the Firſt ſent a great Sum of Mony unto the Emperour Adolphus, for the raiſing of Souldiers in Germany, which the Emperour employed in purchaſing a great part of Miſnia for himſelf.

The Lutheran Churches are handſome, and their Pulpits are extraordinary noble, and richly ſet off, as I obſerved, through all Saxony, Norimberg. And where they are Maſters of the Places, and have not their Churches only by permiſſion; here they ſhewed me in the Cathedral Church of St. Maurice, the Statua's of the five wiſe Virgins ſmiling, and of the five fooliſh Virgins lamenting, which are very well expreſſed: They ſhewed me alſo two odd Reliques, which they ſtill kept as Rarities; that is, the Baſon wherein Pilate waſhed his hands, when he declared himſelf free from the blood of our Saviour; and the Ladder whereon the Cock ſtood when he crowed after St. Peter's denying of Chriſt.

In the Ruines of the Cloiſter of the Auguſtines, there is ſtill to be ſeen Luther's Chamber, his Bedſtead, and Table, and upon the Door are theſe German Verſes.

Dis war Lutheri Kammerlin, Waner in's Cloſter kam herin, Gedachnis halb wird noch it zund Herin geſehen ſein Betteſpund.

i. e.

Luther did lodge within this little Room, When firſt he did into the Cloiſter come; In memory whereof we ſtill do keep The Bedſtead upon which he us'd to ſleep.

I lodged at Magdeburg, in an old man's Houſe, who would tell me many ſtories of the burning of the Town, the cruelties and bloody uſage of the people, who were deſtroyed without exception: The Nuns, many of them being drowned in the River Elbe. After which ſome obſerved that Count Tilly never proſpered in his wars. He told me alſo that Dureus lodged with him, who was employed by King Charles the Firſt, to endeavour a reconciliation between the Lutherans and Calviniſts in Germany, and to unite them if poſſible. We were now in the Territory of the Elector of Brandenburg, Fridericus Wilhelmus, Great Chamberlain of the Empire, who is in effect poſſeſſed of Magdeburg, and next unto the Auſtrian Family, is the moſt potent Prince in Germany, being able to raiſe great Armies, and his Dominions ſo large, that they are reckoned to extend two hundred German miles in length, from the further part of Pruſſia unto Cleve, but they lay not together, but interſperſed with many other Princes Countries: Howſoever, a Horſe-man may ſo order his Journey, as to lye every night in one of the Electour's Towns, in travelling from one end of his Territories to another.

I had now left the pure German Language behind me, for at Magdeburg comes in another kind of German, called Plat-Deutch, Broad-Dutch, Niderſachſiſche, or the Language of lower Saxony; a great Language, ſpoken in the North part of Germany: They ſpeak it at Hamburg, Lubeck, and many great Cities: But they can converſe with the other High-dutch, and with ſome difficulty alſo with the Netherlanders; the one ſpeaking in his Language, and the other replying in his.

At this City of Magdeburg was performed the firſt Turnament that was in Germany, which was opened in the year 635. by the Emperour Henry, Surnamed the Fowler, who coming from the war of Hungary, exceedingly ſatisfied with the Nobility, would oblige them to exerciſe themſelves in handling their Arms, and managing their Horſes, and therefore inſtituted theſe Sports, whereby the Nobility was powerfully attracted to Valour and Gallantry, and induced to perfect and accompliſh themſelves in all kind of Chevalry. No new Nobility, no Baſtard, no Uſurper, none guilty of High Treaſon, no Oppreſſor of Widows and Orphans, none born of Parents whereof one was of baſe Extraction and Ignoble, no Heretique, Murderer, Traytor, no Coward that had run away from the Battel, nor indiſcreet Perſon that had given offence to Ladies by word or deed, were admitted to this Honour, nor above One of the ſame Family at a time. Princes came into the Liſts with four Squires a piece, Counts and Barons with three, a Knight with two, and a Gentleman with one.

The hour and place for the Turnament being appointed, he that had a deſire to break a Lance there, came to the Preſidents Lodgings to have his Name written down, which was done in the preſence of three Heralds, to whom the Champion delivered his Helmet and Sword, and after he had been at Confeſſion, preſented himſelf in the Liſts with one or more Squires, according to his quality. The Horſes of the Combatants were to be without fault or exception; the Capariſons and Furniture ſuch as gave no offence; their Saddles without any extraordinary riſing before and behind, and all things equal. After which they performed all kind of Exerciſes on Horſe-back: and after the Jouſts were ended, every man repaired to the Preſident of his Nation, to wait for the Sentence of the Judges; and he that beſt deſerved the Prize, received it either from the hand of ſome Lady, or from the Prince that gave it.

Theſe Paſtimes were afterwards diſuſed, upon the Emulation it cauſed between the Princes and Nobility, who ſtrove to outvie one another; or upon wars, in which there was no leiſure for ſuch Exerciſes; or perhaps upon conſideration that divers brave men loſt their lives in theſe Encounters: And no leſs a Prince than Henry the Second, King of France, neglecting to wear his Beaver down, was ſlain in a Turnament. And at Darmſtadt alſo, in the year 1403. at the Three and twentieth Turnament which was held in Germany, the Gentlemen of Franconia and thoſe of Heſſe, drew ſo much blood upon one another, that there remained dead upon the place ſeventeen of the former, and nine of the latter.

The Winter growing on called me to make haſte to Hamburg, from whence I intended to paſs by Sea into England, and therefore I took the advantage of the Stage-Coaches at Magdeburg, and in four days came to Hamburg; I travelled through a Country for the moſt part barren, of little accommodation, or ſcarce any thing very remarkable, through part of the Electour of Brandenburg, and then through the Duke of Lunenburg's Country, paſſing by the City of Lunenburg, a handſome walled City, beautified with divers fair Churches, with high Spires. The Church of St. Lambert, the Town-houſe, and the Duke's Palace, are fair. Here are Salt-ſprings in the Town, very beneficial to the place, and ſupplying the neighbour Countries. The Town is commanded by a Hill near to it, called Kalkberg, which lieth on the North-ſide.

In this Road through lower Saxony, I could not but take notice of many Barrows or Mounts of Earth, the burial Monuments of great and famous Men, to be often obſerved alſo in open Countries in England, and ſometimes rows of great Stones, like thoſe in Wormius his Daniſh Antiquities: And in one place I took more particular notice of them, where three maſſy Stones in the middle, were encompaſſed in a large ſquare by other large Stones ſet up an end.

Hamburg is a fair City, and one of the great ones in Germany; it is ſeated in a Plain, being populous, rich, and remarkably ſtrong: It is fortified a la Moderne, much after the way of Holland, with works of earth, but in no place yet Reveſtues, or faced with brick or ſtone: The Territory belonging to it is but ſmall; it is divided into the new and the old Town. There are five Gates: The Stone gate, leading towards Lubeck; the Dome-gate; the Alten-gate, or which leadeth unto Altenaw, a place near the Town, belonging to the King of Denmark, where the Romaniſts and Calviniſts have their Churches; the Bridge-gate; and the Dike-gate. The Buildings of this City are handſome, and commonly have a fair entrance into them. The Senate-houſe is noble, adorned with carved Statua's of the Nine Worthies. The Exchange or place of meeting for Merchants, was then enlarging, it being too ſmall to receive thoſe Numbers which frequented it. Many of their Churches are very fair, with high Steeples, covered with Copper. The Front of St. Katherines is beautiful. The Steeple of St. Nicholas is ſupported with great gilded Globes. The other great Churches, are the Dome-Church, St. Peters, St. Jacob. The greater and leſs, St. Michael, the New-Church in the New town. The leſſer Churches, are St. Gertrude, St. Mary Magdalen, and the Holy Ghoſt. They have a Sermon every day, as in other Lutheran Cities.

The River Alſter runs through it into the Elbe, and turneth many Mills: and the Tide comes up into divers Streets through Chanels, although it be diſtant eighteen German miles from the Sea, or Mouth of the Elbe. This place aboundeth with ſhipping, and many of good Burden, and is well ſeated for Trade, as having an open paſſage into the Ocean, and being but a days Journey from the Lubeck on the Baltick Sea, and being ſeated upon the long River Elbe, the third great River of Germany, whereby it may have Commerce with a great part of that Country, and as far as Bohemia.

Hamburg is full of Strangers and Merchants of ſeveral Countries. The Engliſh Company have good Priviledges and a rich Trade, and Ships come laden thither with Cloath to the value of an hundred thouſand pounds ſterling; and they live here in good Reputation, and to the honour of their Country: they are Perſons of worth, courteſie, and civility; and I heartily wiſh them all ſucceſs in their Affairs. I muſt not omit the acknowledgment of my particular Obligation to that learned and worthy Perſon, Mr. Griffin, Preacher unto the Company, Mr. Free the Treaſurer, Mr. Banks, who hath been in many places of Natolia, and the Holy Land, Mr. Jenkinſon, and my very obliging Friends Mr. Catelin and Mr. Townly.

This place hath the happineſs to be quiet when the great Princes of Europe are at war; for it deſires to hold a ſtrict Amity with Princes, and declines all Diſſention with them.

I found a Ship at Hamburg bound for London, and while it was fitting for Sail, I made a ſhort excurſion into part of the King of Denmarks Country; and returning to Hamburg again, I ordered my affairs for England upon the firſt wind, and hoped the next Tide to get over the Altenaw ſand, and to paſs the Blanckneſs, but a croſs wind prevented, ſo that I left not Hamburg till the tenth of December, and then I had the good Company of Mr. Hoyle, who came from Narva, and ſet Sail in a new Ship; but the days being at the ſhorteſt, and the nights dark in the New Moon, the Tide falling alſo in the day time, we were able to get no further the firſt day than Stadt, or Stoade, upon the River Zwingh, a ſtrong Town, belonging to the King of Sweden, where the Ships that come up the River pay Cuſtome, and where the Engliſh Merchants had formerly their Reſidence, when they left Hamburg upon a Diſcontent.

December the 11th. we came by Gluckſtadt, belonging to the King of Denmark, where the Caſtle, the King's Palace, and the Church are handſome, and Anchored that night before the Mouth of the River Oaſt, which ariſeth in Bremerland, and falleth into the Elbe a mile from Brunſbüttel, on the other Holſatian ſhoar.

December the 12th. we loſt ſight of the Northern ſhoar, and paſſed Cook's Haven, in full hopes to put out to Sea that night; but about Three in the Afternoon we were becalmed a League and a half below it, where we were forced to come to an Anchor again, leſt the ſtrong Ebbe ſhould ſet us on ground among the Sands: So we lay that night between Thickſand on the North, and Newark on the South, right over againſt a Light-houſe.

December the 13th. the wind turning Weſternly, and blowing hard, we returned to Cook's Haven, and came to Anchor. Here I came a ſhoar, and went up the Land to the Fort in this place belonging to the City of Hamburg: It is a high ſquare Work, with a double Ditch, and ſome Veſſels come up to the Fort; but the Ditch or Chanel which comes thither out of the Elbe, is dry at low water. The Town is called Reutſbüttel, not far from the Lands end. Two or three days after, with a cold North-Eaſt-wind, we ſet Sail for England. Coming out of the Elbe, we were all the Afternoon in ſight of an Iſland, called Heilige-landt, or Holy-land, belonging to the Duke of Holſtein, which being very high Land, is to be ſeen at a good diſtance, and is of excellent uſe to direct and guide Ships into the Mouth of the Elbe, without which they would be at a great loſs, the Country about that Rivers Mouth being all very low Land.

Heiligeland is a ſmall Iſland, having about two thouſand Inhabitants, and ſix or ſeven ſmall Veſſels belonging to it, which are imployed a great part of the year in bringing Lobſters and other Fiſh to London or Quinborough, the Inhabitants living moſt upon Fiſh. We bore out to Sea all night, and the next day made towards the Land again, and ſailed in ſight of Schiemoniekeoghe, Amelandt, and Schelling: in the Evening we ſaw the Lights at the Vly and Texel; when we were near the Land, we were much troubled with the Froſt and cold Weather, and leſs when we were off at Sea. The next day we had a fair wind, and made ſuch way, that in the Evening we took down our Sails, and let the Veſſel drive, not being willing to deal with the ſhoar in the night. The next morning we ſoon diſcovered the Northforeland covered with Snow, and came to an Anchor in Margarite-Road, where the wind growing very high, we rode it out for two days and two nights, and came ſafe on ſhoar (praiſed be God) upon Chriſtmas-day morning.

Now having made ſo long a walk in Germany, I muſt confeſs I returned with a better opinion of the Country, than I had before of it; and cannot but think it very conſiderable in many things. The Rivers thereof are noble, and ſeem to exceed thoſe of France and Italy. Of the Rivers of Italy, the Padus or Po, is the moſt conſiderable, which notwithſtanding, hath no very long courſe, before it runneth into the Adriatick Sea. And Italy being divided by the Appennine-hills, running from Weſt to Eaſt, the Rivers which ariſe from either ſide, cannot be long, neither on the South-ſide, before they run into the Mediterranean, as the Arno, Garigliano, and others: Nor on the North ſide, before they run into the Adriatick, or the Po.

The chief Rivers of France, as the Loyre, the Seine, the Rhoſne, and the Garonne, I cannot but highly commend, having paſſed upon them for divers days. There are alſo four great Rivers in Germany; the Danube, the Rhine, the Elbe, and the Oder, but none of France ſeem comparable unto the Rhine and Danube. France having the Sea upon the North, the Weſt, and the two large Provinces of Languedoc, and Province upon the Mediterranean Sea, hath the opportunity of Noble Cities and Seaports: But ſome doubt may be made, Whether any thereof do exceed Hamburg, Lubeck, and Dantzick.

The great number of populous, large, and handſome Cities, doth afford great content unto a Traveller in Germany; for beſides about Sixty ſix free Imperial Cities, are many more of good note belonging to particular Princes, and divers highly priviledged. And ſurely a true Eſtimation of the Cities and Towns of theſe days, cannot be duly made from the Accounts and Deſcriptions thereof left an hundred years ſince or more, for ſince thoſe times, Buildings have been better modelled and ordered; Fortifications and Out-works more regularly contrived; Convents and Publick Houſes more neatly and commodiouſly built; and the fair Colledges and Churches of the Jeſuites, which are now to be ſeen in moſt, do much ſet off the Beauty of great Places. Every where we meet with great and populous Towns, Villages, Caſtles, Seats of the Nobility, Plains, Foreſts, and pleaſant Woods. And beſides the ſatisfaction we may have from Objects above ground, we may find no ſmall content in the wonders thereof under it, in Mines, Minerals almoſt of all ſorts, of Gold, Silver, Copper, Iron, Tinn, Lead, Quickſilver, Antimony, Coal, Salt, Sulphur, Cadmia, and others, where there are alſo ſingular Artificers and Workmen, in the ſeveral Artifices thereof. Converſation with the People is eaſie, they behaving themſelves without much Formality, and are plain-dealing and truſty, ſo that a Traveller needs not to be ſo ſolicitous and heedful of what he hath, as in ſome other Countries, which are eſteemed of greater Civility. The Women are generally well-complexioned, ſober, and grave, and they have not yet learned the cuſtome of their Neighbours of France and Holland, to admit of being ſaluted by Men: faithful to their Husbands, and careful in the affairs of their Houſes.

They make good proviſion againſt the cold of their Country, by ſleeping between two Feather-beds and Stoves.

The common Stoves in Inns, wherein there are for the moſt part ſeveral Companies eating, drinking, and in the night ſleeping, are convenient, conſidering the great cold, or at leaſt tolerable; but they being rooms cloſe ſhut up, the ſmell of the meat, and eſpecially of Cabbage, an uſual Diſh amongſt them, makes them unpleaſant, ſo that ſometimes I preferred the courſe of hot Countries, while I called to mind, that in Province and Italy we drank frozen Julebs, which we diſſolved with the heat of our hands; ſlept upon a ſheet, on the outſide of the Bed, with all the Windows of the Chamber open; and as we ſate at dinner, there was a Fann in the middle of the Room, hanging over our Heads, about two yards broad, which with a ſtring was pulled backward and forward to cool us, and divers had Pans filled with Snow, to cool the ſheets when they went into their Beds.

Germany is a great Hive of men, and the mighty deſtruction of men made by the laſt German wars, and by the Plague is ſo repaired, that it is ſcarce diſcernible. They are fruitful, and full of Children: They are not exhauſted by Sea, Colonies ſent forth, or by peopling American Countries; but they have ſome conſumption by wars abroad, when they be at peace at home: few wars being made in other parts of Europe, wherein there are not ſome Regiments of Germans; the People being naturally Martial, and perſons well deſcended, very averſe from a Trading courſe of Life.

While I read in Tacitus of the old barbarous and rude State of Germany, how poorly they lived, that they had their Houſes at a diſtance from one another; how ignorant they were in Arts; and it was doubted whether their Country afforded Mines; that they lived by exchange of things, making little or no uſe of mony, and the like, I may juſtly wonder to behold the preſent advance and improvement in all commendable Arts, Learning, Civility, ſplendid and handſome Cities and Habitations, and the general face of things incredibly altered ſince thoſe ancient times; and cannot but approve the expreſſion of a Learned Man, though long ſince, That if A ••• v • ſtus, Civilis, and thoſe old famous men of Germany, ſhould revive in their Country again, and look up to Heaven beholding the Conſtellations of the Bears and other Stars, they might probably acknowledge that theſe were the ſame Stars which they were wont to behold; but if they ſhould look downward, and well view the face of all things, they would imagine themſelves to be in a new world, and never acknowledge this to have been their Country.

A JOURNEY FROM COLEN IN GERMANY TO LONDON.

DUring the Treaty of Peace at Colen in the year 1673. between the United States of the Netherlands, the King of Great Britain, and the French King; many Engliſh Gentlemen having accompanied their Excellencies the Lords Ambaſſadours and Plenipotentiaries in their Journey, had a deſire alſo to view ſome of the Neighbouring Territories, and to divertiſe themſelves during the heat of the Summer, at the Spaa, the Baths of Aken, and other places. Having therefore, in order to our Journey, obtained a Paſport for our Safety from Count Blondel, one of the Spaniſh Plenipotentiaries, and from their Excellencies Sir Joſeph Williamſon, and Sir Leoline Jenkins; we left Coln on Munday the Fourth of July, and upon the Road overtook my Lord of Peterborough, who had been at Duſſeldorp, at the Duke of Newburg's Court, and went afterwards into Italy to Modena, and brought over her Highneſs the preſent Dutcheſs of York. We dined at a ſmall walled Town, called Berckem, which ſome think to be a name corrupted from Tiberiacum, where we ſtayed a great part of the Afternoon, to accommodate an unlucky Accident which happened: A Servant of one of the Engliſh Gentlemen having caſually ſhot a Horſe, which belonged to a Commander under the Duke of Newburg, lying at that time with a party of Horſe at this Town, ſo that we travelled in the Evening through the Woods, and came late to a place called Steinſtraſſe, and the next day morning we went to Juliers.

Gulick, or Juliers, is a ſmall Town by the River Roer, but very ancient, and called by the Romans, Juliacum, conceived to have been founded by Julius Caeſar; the Seat ſometimes of the Dukes of Gulick, before the uniting hereof with Cleve; and ſince the diſſolution of that Eſtate, poſſeſſed by the United Provinces; and then again by the Spaniards; but at preſent in the hands of the Duke of Newburg. It being agreed at the concluſion of Peace between the Spaniards and the Hollanders, That the Marqueſs of Brandenburg ſhould have Marck and Cleve, and the Duke of Newburg, Gulick and Berg. This is a handſome well fortified Town, the Streets ſtreight, and the Houſes of Brick. The Citadel conſiſts of four Baſtions, of a regular Fortification; within which is the Princes Palace. The Piazza in the Town is handſome; and the whole conſiderable for its beauty and ſtrength.

July the 5th. we came to Aken, or Aquiſgranum, ſive Leagues diſtant from Gulick; the French call it Aix la Chapelle, from a Chappel in the great Church, much viſited by Pilgrims from many parts; and famous for the great number of Reliques preſerved therein. When the Romans made war upon the Germans, they poſſeſſed themſelves of divers places between the Rhine and Maes. And Granus, a noble Roman, being ſent into theſe parts of Gallia Belgica, about the year of our Lord Fifty three, diſcovered among the Woods and Hills theſe hot Springs, which to this day are ſo much celebrated in many parts of Europe; who afterwards made uſe of them, and adorned them after the manner of the Roman Baths, and built a noble Habitation near them; part of which the Inhabitants would have ſtill to be ſtanding, retaining the name of Turris Grani, an old Tower at the Eaſt-end of the Town-houſe; a noble Antiquity: But the manner of its building gives ſuſpicion it cannot be ſo old. Hence theſe Thermae from their Diſcoverer have been named Aquae Graniae, and came to be frequented; and the Town of Aquiſgrane built and flouriſhed, till Attila, the King of the Huns, or Hungarians, deſtroyed it.

About four hundred years after, Charles the Great riding out a hunting in theſe parts, as he paſſed through the Woods, his Horſes Foot ſtrook into one of theſe Hotſprings; near which he alſo took notice of the Ruins of ancient Palaces and Buildings long before forſaken; and being ſtill more and more delighted with the pleaſant Situation of the place, and conveniency of theſe hot Rivolets, he renewed and adorned the Baths, built his Royal Palace near them: and appointed that the King of the Romans ſhould be crowned with an Iron Crown here as with a Silver one at Milan, and a Gold one at Rome. He alſo built a noble Collegiate Church, dedicated to the bleſſed Virgin, in the preſence of many Princes and Biſhops, in the year 804, and endowed it with Revenues for the maintainance of Canons, who lived together in a Colledge at firſt, but at preſent ſeparately in the manner of Prebends. He built alſo the old or inward Wall of the City, ſo that it flouriſhed till the year 882. at which time it was again ruined by the Fury of the Normans, and the Emperours Palace burnt to the ground. This City, beſides theſe Devaſtations from the Irruptions of the Huns and Normans, hath been divers times ſince deſtroyed by Fire; as in the year 1146. which loſs it overcame in ſuch manner, that Twenty ſix years after, it recovered not only its former greatneſs, but was ſo much increaſed, that the large outward Wall was built by the command of the Emperour Frederick the Firſt.

In the year 1224. happened another great Fire, in which, not only the Buildings, but many of the Inhabitants periſhed. And the Roof of the Church was burnt in another Fire 1236. And now of late, for it is not long ſince it hath recovered its loſſes by the Fire in the year 1656. when twenty Churches and Chappels, and about five thouſand private Houſes were deſtroyed.

The Town-houſe, or Senate-houſe, was built 1353. being all of Free-ſtone, handſomely adorned with the Statues of the Emperours. The firſt and ſecond Story of this Building is divided into Chambers; but the higheſt is all one entire Room or Hall, 162 Foot long, and 60 Foot broad. It is well painted in divers parts by Amiſaga: Two Pieces of whoſe drawing are much eſteemed here; one of the Reſurrection, and another of Charles the Great, giving the Charter to the City of Aken. Here the Emperours, at the time of their Coronation, uſed to keep their Feaſts, together with the Electours and other Princes. The Roof is ſupported by four Pillars; through the middle of which, the ſmoak of all the Chimneys of this Building, is by a handſome contrivance conveyed away.

Over againſt this Houſe, in the middle of the Piazza, is a Fountain, conſiderable both for largeneſs and neat ſtructure, contrived by a great Artiſt, Gerard Coris: where four Springs perpetually empty themſelves from above into a large Baſon of Copper, of thirty Foot Diameter; from whence again it deſcends by ſix Pipes into a Ciſtern of Stone, handſomely engraved, and paſſeth to many other Fountains in the Town. On the top of this Fountain ſtands a large Statue of Charles the Great, Patron of this City, made of braſs, and gilded over. He is in Armour, and looketh towards Germany. About the edges of the great braſs Baſon is this Inſcription:

Hic aquis per Granum Principem quendam Romanum, Neronis & Agrippae fratrem inventis, calidorum fontium Thermae à Principio conſtructae. Poſtea verò per D. Carolum Magnum Imp. conſtituto ut locus hic fit caput & regni ſedes trans Alpes, renovatae ſunt: quibus Thermis hic gelidus fons influxit olim quem nunc demum hoc aeneo vaſe illuſtravit S. P. Q. Aquiſgranenſis, Anno Domini 1620.

The Church of our Lady, built by Charles the Great, is of an odd Figure. At the Weſt-end is a Steeple adorned with divers Pyramids; and on the top a large Globe and Croſs. From hence, higher much than the Church, paſſeth a Gallery, ſupported by a large Arch to a Cupola near the middle of the Church. At the Eaſt-end is alſo a ſmall Turret or Lanthorn. The inſide of the whole is adorned with Marble Pillars of divers ſorts, with Pillars of braſs, gilded Statues, braſs Doors and Partitions, and much Moſaick work.

In the middle of the Church, where Charles the Great was buried, hangeth a very large Crown, given to this Church by the Emperour Frederick the Firſt. This Crown is made of ſilver and braſs gilt, adorned with ſixteen little Towers, and eight and forty Statues of ſilver, of about a Foot high, and thirty two which are leſſer. Between theſe ſtand eight and forty Candleſticks to receive the Lights burnt here upon Feſtivals.

Of theſe large Crowns I have ſeen at Colen, and other parts; and it hath been an ancient Ornament in Churches. The Greeks have a Crown, or large Circle much like this, in the middle of moſt of their beſt Churches; on which they hang many Oſtrich Eggs, and the Pictures of the Apoſtles and Saints. The Turks do likewiſe imitate it in their Moſques, but inſtead of Pictures place Lamps.

Frederick the Firſt took up the Body of Charles the Great out of its Sepulchre in the middle of the Church, and afterwards buried it again; partly in a ſilver Coffin under the Altar of the Quire, and partly near the Wall of the old Building, covering it with the ſame Tomb-ſtone, as before; which is here reported to have been firſt taken from the Tomb of Julius Caeſar. It is of white Marble, and hath the Figure of Proſerpina upon it. Out of this Tomb of Charles the Great, were taken up a great number of Reliques and conſiderable Rarities, which he had got together in his life time; ſome of them given him by Aaron King of Perſia, by the Patriarch of Conſtantinople, and others; divers of which are ſtill preſerved here: and theſe following we had the opportunity to ſee. Some of the bleſſed Virgins hair. One ring or link of the Chain with which St. Peter was chained in Priſon. The Head of Charles the Great. The bones of his Arm. His Sword which the Emperours wear at the time of their Coronation. The Picture of the Virgin Mary, with our Saviour in her Arms, emboſſed upon a Jaſpis, done by St. Luke, hanged about the Neck of Charles the Great, and ſo found in his Tomb. A Noble Manuſcript of the Goſpels found in the ſame Tomb. Charles the Great's Horn which he uſed when he went a hunting. His Crucifix made out of the wood of the Croſs. Our Saviour's Girdle of Leather, with the Seal of Conſtantine the Great at each end. A piece of the true Manna. Some of the Bones and Blood of St. Stephen, richly enchaſed, upon which the Emperours are ſworn at their Inauguration. A piece of one of the Nails of the Croſs. An Agnus Dei ſent from the Pope to Charles the Great; and many other Reliques. Here is alſo the Tomb of the Emperour Otho the Third, in black Marble, who in the year 1000, firſt conſtituted the Electors of Germany.

Near to this City are many ſorts of Minerals found; as Lead ore, the Sulphur, and Vitriol-ſtone, Iron, Coal, and Cadmia, or Lapis Calaminaris: With this latter we ſaw them make Braſs, or multiply Copper, in this manner. They take calcined Cadmia, or Calmey, as they call it, Copper from Sweden, and the melted droſs of both; to twenty eight pounds of Copper they put an hundred pound of Calmey: They put firſt into very large Crucibles, ſome old pieces of braſs and ſlacken, or the droſs, and afterwards the Calmey and Copper, and let them ſtand in the Furnace twelve hours; after which, they put eight Crucibles full into one, and let what will run over, the beſt ſinking always to the bottom; and then caſt it into a Frame made of ſtone, bordered with bars of Iron; and ſo run it into braſs Plates, which are afterwards cut in pieces with large Ciſſars.

The hot Bathes are very much frequented at preſent. Within the inward Walls are three convenient ones: The Emperours Bath, the Little Bath, and the Bath of S. Quirinus. The Emperours Bath is in the ſame place, and fed with the ſame Springs with that in which formerly Charles the Great took ſo much delight, that he frequently uſed to ſwim therein; in which Exerciſe few were more expert than himſelf; and ſpent the latter end of his days here, and would often invite to the Bath, not only his Sons, but his Nobles, his Friend and Guards; ſo as it was cuſtomary to Bathe a hundred together in thoſe days. But now they are divided into leſſer Partitions. The Emperours Bath having five Bathing Rooms; and the Little Bath which cometh out of it three. Theſe are reckoned to be Nitro-Sulphureus; and ariſe ſo hot, that they let them cool twelve hours before they uſe them. From under a great round Stone which covered a Well, in which there were ſome of theſe Hot Springs, I ſaw Brimſtone, hard, above an inch thick, and Salt-peter, and a petrified Subſtance finely variegated, taken out.

Beſides theſe, near unto the inward Wall of the City, there are Baths which are not ſo hot as the former, eſteemed to be Sulphureo-nitrous: The ſmell of them is ſomewhat offenſive, and the water in the Ciſterns not tranſparent. The firſt is the Bath of St. Cornelius, which hath two Receptacles. The ſecond, the Roſe Bath, ſo called from Mr. Roſe, a Citizen of Aken, who built it. The third, Compus Badt, or the Poor man's Bath. Of this ſort of warm Water there is alſo a Fountain, much reſorted to, and drank of every morning in the Summer for many Chronical Diſeaſes. About a Furlong out of the South-gate of Aken, is a Village called Porcetum, or Borſet, from the great number of wild Hoggs, which formerly frequented that place; in which are many Hot Springs upon both ſides of a little Rivolet, and let into Houſes, where they are diſtributed into ſeveral Baths of Stone. There are fourteen of theſe Houſes, and twenty eight Baths; the Baths holding ordinarily about fifty Tuns of Water, each of them: the Water is clear and pleaſant, without any offenſive ſmell; exceſſive hot when it cometh firſt out of the Ground, hotter than the hotteſt of Aken, and is left to cool about eighteen hours before they uſe it. They uſe alſo an Inſtrument of Wood, pierced with many holes, to help to cool them ſooner, or to ſtir the Water when any one goeth in, whereby he is not ſo ſenſible of the heat. There are many cold Springs riſe near theſe hot ones, whereby they might be tempered; and ſurely the quantity of the hot Water being ſo great, no place might be made more delightful, nor no Baths more noble. The Turks in our times, do moſt of any Nation beautifie their Baths, and render them ſerviceable to their health and pleaſure.

In Auſtria at Baden, the Sawer Bath is built after the Turkiſh manner, with a Cupola over it: and if any one hereafter ſhall build or beautifie theſe, they will yield to very few in Europe. At preſent moſt of them are of a ſquare Figure, of about five or ſix yards over; and the Houſes in which they are, very near one another. The firſt Houſe hath the name of the Ladies Bath; the ſecond is the Snake; the third and fourth the Sword; the fifth the Golden Mill; the ſixth the Fool; the ſeventh the Cock; the eighth the Great Bath; the ninth the Fountain; the tenth the Crab; the eleventh the World Inverted; the twelfth the Glaſs; the thirteenth the Angel; and the fourteenth the Roſe. There is alſo another in the open Air, called the Poor man's Bath. In the Street is a Well or Fountain of theſe Hot-ſprings, of as great a heat as any I have ſeen; perpetually boyling or bubling. But of all theſe Baths Dr. Blondel and Dr. Didier have written ſo particularly, as I need not to add any thing more, and particularly of their Uſes.

Within two Leagues of Aken, in the Country of Limbourg, is a Mine of Lapis Calaminaris, which we went to ſee, having a Corporal and eight Muſquetiers for our Security to paſs the Wood. This Mine heth over againſt the Caſtle of Einenberg. As ſoon as I had delivered a Letter to Mr. John Franck, Comptroller of the Mine for his Catholick Majeſty, he went along with us, to ſhew us the manner how the Cadmia groweth in the Earth, and other Curioſities. This Mine having been wrought Three hundred years, and being one of the moſt remarkable of that kind, it may not be impertinent to ſet down ſome particulars concerning it. It is about eighteen or nineteen Fathoms deep, lying all open like a Chalk Mine, of an Oval Figure; they digg at preſent in ſeveral places, and the beſt Calmey lieth between the Rocks, in the deepeſt part of the Mine: They have now found an excellent Veyn ſo placed, of eleven or twelve Foot thick, which they digg out with Pickaxes, with ſome difficulty, by reaſon that the Lapis Calaminaris is ſo very hard. The colour of this Stone is of a dark yellow and red, and hath Veyns of natural Brimſtone mixed thinly in it. The Veyns of the Lapis Calaminaris being ſo large, they follow them not only in one place, but digg over one anothers heads, and frame their work into the ſhape of large Stayrs, and one throws up what another diggs, and ſo upward till they lade the Carts with it. Some of the Cadmia is blackiſh and dark brown; and there are Fluores between the Cavities of the Stone handſomely figured, but moſt of a blackiſh colour. The works about the Mine the moſt remarkable, are theſe: 1. An Overſhot-wheel in the Earth, which moves the Pumps to pump out the water; and this not placed in the Mine, but on one ſide of it, and a paſſage cut out of the Mine to the bottom of it, by which the Mine is drained; and another paſſage or cuniculus, out of the place where the wheel is turned, which lets out the water which turns the wheel, and alſo the water which cometh out of the Mine into the Neighbouring Valley. 2. The waſhing of the Ore or Stone, which they perform, as at other works, by letting the water over it, and ſtirring it; and this they do whereſoever they begin to work near the Superficies of the Earth, for there the Calmey is leſs, and more mixed with Clay and Earth: but the moſt remarkable work is the calcining of the Ore (for all our Lapis Calaminaris of the Shops is the calcined Calmey) and it is worth the ſeeing; for they place Faggots in a handſome order firſt, and cover a large round Area with them, of about Forty or Fifty yards Diameter, upon which they place Charcoal in as good an order, till all be covered and filled up a yard from the ground; then they place ranks of the largeſt Stones of Calmey, and after them ſmaller, till they have laid all on; and then by ſetting fire to the bottom, the fire comes to each ſtone, and all is handſomely calcined. From hence we went to Limburg, meeting with divers Souldiers upon the Road, who deſired mony of us, but did not attempt any thing againſt us, we being many of us together in Company.

Limburg is ſeated upon a high Rock, which overlooks all the Country, and a little River runneth almoſt round it at the bottom. The Avenue to the Town on the Northſide is difficult all along upon the edge of the Rock; and the Gate of the Town, over which is the Governour's Houſe, ſpreads it ſelf from one ſide of the Rock to the other, and locketh up the paſſage. Here we ſhew our Paſports from the Spaniſh Plenipotentiaries; and in the Afternoon had a pleaſant Journey to the Spaa. In the way we ſaw where the French Army had paſſed the Country towards Metz, having lain about a Fortnight at Vichet, after the taking of Maeſtreicht.

Spà is a neat Villedge in the Foreſt of Ardenna, ſeated in a bottom, encompaſſed on all ſides with Hills, and on the North with ſteep Mountains. So that it happening to rain while we were there, the place was, in ſome hours time, filled with water, the Hay waſhed out of the Meadows, the falls in the River made even, and Pohunt, one of the Mineral Fountains, was drowned. There was not much Company when we were there, although it were in the hotteſt time of the year, which is moſt ſeaſonable for drinking the waters; by reaſon of the wars, and the danger of coming through the Country to them. But in Spà it ſelf all people are free from danger, all the Neighbouring Princes protecting it, and would count it very diſhonourable to diſturb a place, which by the virtue of its Mineral Springs, is ſo beneficial to Mankind. Theſe Waters are not only drunk upon the place, but are alſo ſealed up in Bottles, and ſent into many parts of Europe. And Mr. Coquelet, at whoſe Houſe we lodged, told me that he ſent it as far as Saragoſſa in Spain: and that he had at that time Thirty thouſand Bottles empty, and waited for a good ſeaſon to fill them, which is the hotteſt, dryeſt time of the Summer, and the hardeſt Froſt in Winter; at which times the water is ſtrongeſt, ſparkling, and brisk, The chiefeſt of theſe Mineral Fountains are theſe, Geronſter, Saviniere, Tonnelet, and Pohunt.

Geronſter is in the middle of a thick Wood, about an Engliſh mile and a half Southward of the Spà; it is the ſtrongeſt of any, and the beſt adorned, being built up with ſtone, and a Pavilion over it, ſupported with four handſome ſtone Pillars. There is a green place cleared in the Wood near to it, and a little Houſe for the Patients to warm themſelves in early, in the morning, or in cold weather. The Arms of Sr Conrad Bourgſdorff, who adorned this Fountain, are placed over, on two ſides; and on the other two this Inſcription in French and High-dutch, in a handſome Oval.

Le Reverendiſſime & Excellentiſſime Sr Sr Conrade Bourgſdorff, Grand Chamberlan, & premier Conſeiller d'Eſtat, Colonel & Gouverneur General de tous les Forts & Fortereſſes du Sereniſſime Electeur de Brandebourg dans ſon Eſtat Electoral, Grand Prevoſt des Egliſes Cathedrales d'Halberſtadt & Brandebourg, Chevalier de l'Ordre de St. Jean, & Commandeur du Baillage de Lagow, de gros Machenau, Golbeck, Bouckow, Oberſtorff, &c. &c. &c.

This Fountain ſmelleth very ſtrong of Brimſtone, and cauſeth vomiting in a great many, yet paſſeth chiefly by Urine, as they do all; and ſtrikes a purple with Nutgalls more inclining to red, than the waters of Tunbridge. The Sediment is of a light blew in the Fountain, but of a dark dirty red every where elſe. Not far from this is another large Spring in the Wood much like it, but not as yet built and beautified.

Saviniere is another Fountain, almoſt as far from the Spà Eaſtward, and built after the manner of a Tower: the Acidulae are not ſo ſtrong as the former. There is another Fountain hard by this, almoſt the ſame, held to be particularly good for the Stone and Gravel.

The third is Tonnelet, ariſing in the Meadow, and built up with ſtone: But being there are no Trees nor Shades about it, it is not ſo delightful as the others. And Henricus ab Heers in his Spadacrene, ſaith that this is more nitrous than the reſt, and cauſeth ſuch a coldneſs in the mouth and ſtomach, that few can drink of it.

The fourth is Pohunt, in the middle of the Town, from whence moſt of the water is drawn which is ſent abroad, if no particular one be ſent for. This was beautified with handſome Stone-work, by the Biſhop of Liege, to whom this place belongeth, and this Inſcription ſet over it, Sanitati Sacrum. It is alſo called the Fountain of St. Remaclus, to whom it was dedicated; and theſe Verſes are likewiſe engraven upon it:

Obſtructum reſerat, durum terit, humida ſiccat Debile fortificat, ſi tamen arte bibis.

i. e.

This opens all Obſtructions, And wears away hard Tumours; This ſtrengthneth much the weaker parts, And dries up cold moiſt Humours.

Being at the Spà, we viſited Franchimont one Afternoon, paſſing through a thick Wood, there is an old Caſtle, and good Brimſtone and Vitriol-works, the ſame Stone affording both; and I preſume may alſo make the Spa-water under ground, or at leaſt be a principal Ingredient in it. We ſaw the manner here how they melted, and caſt their Brimſtone firſt into great Pails, the florid and clear parts remaining at the top and middle, the thick and more obſcure ſubſiding and adhering to the bottom and ſides, and is that which is ſold for Sulphur Vivum. We ſaw alſo the manner of caſting the Brimſtone into Rolls, or Magdaleons: And near unto this place a ſmoaking, burning, little Hill, which is thus cauſed: They throw out the burnt Pyrites, out of which Brimſtone hath been diſtilled, and the Vitriol drawn out by infuſion, upon this Hill, which conſiſts all of the ſame matter, which ferments in time, grows hot, ſmoaks, and burns perpetually, and withal, drinks in a new Vitriol into its ſelf.

From the Spà we croſſed over to Frapont, a Village ſeated upon the pleaſant River Uta, or Ourte, where we took Boat and went down a rapid Stream, yet one of the pleaſanteſt I ever ſaw, winding and turning between ſo many green Hills, in part of the Foreſt of Arduenna. We deſcended afterwards thirty or forty ſmall Falls in a long Boat made on purpoſe. The Oar or Paddle being only a ſquare piece of Board fixed to the end of a Pole, the Pole ſtanding perpendicularly in the middle of it. The delightful River Veſa, or the Weſdret, ſoon met us, and joyning together, we fell down with them into the Maes near Liege. Upon the Banks of theſe Rivers all the Arms, Guns, and other Inſtruments are made, for which the Country of Liege is remarkable.

Liege, Luick, Leodium, or Auguſta Eburonum; Learned Men think this City to be ſeated near that Valley, wherein two Legions of Julius Caeſar, under Sabinus and Cotta, were deſtroyed by Ambiorix, chief Commander of the Eburones. It is ſeated upon the River Moſa, which entring with two Streams, makes ſome pretty Iſlands. Three other ſmall Rivers ariſing in the Foreſt of Ardenna, are alſo here received into the Maes, whereby they have plenty of Fiſh and other Conveniencies. The City is very populous, and ſo it hath been in former Ages, when as Charles Duke of Purgunay, ſacked it, and deſtroyed an hundred thouſand of the people.

It aboundeth with fair Churches, ſtately Convents, and Religious Foundations, richly endowed, ſo that it hath been called the Paradiſe of Prieſts, and is in that kind the moſt notable in all theſe parts. The Palace of the Biſhop is a noble Fabrick, built by Cardinal Erardus, Biſhop of Liege. The Cathedral beareth the Name of St. Lambert, who being Biſhop of Maeſtreicht was murdered by Dodo and others, about the year 622. The See was afterwards tranſlated unto Liege by Hubertus, as it had been formerly from Tongres to Maeſtreicht, and the Body of St. Lambert removed unto this Church, which is at preſent very noble, being built of a reddiſh Stone, very much carved without, and handſomely adorned within. Between the Quire and Sacriſty, is this Inſcription in very large Letters:

D. O. M.

Intemeratae Virgini Mariae, Sancto Lamberto, Eccleſiae & Patriae Divis Tutelaribus, Maximilianus Henricus utriuſque Bavariae Dux, Archiepiſcopus & Elector Colonienſis, Epiſcopus & Princeps Leodienſis, Erneſti & Ferdinandi Bavariae Ducum, Epiſcoporum & Principum Leodienſium Nepos & Succeſſor in ſui & Praedeceſſorum memoriam Ponebat. MDCLVIII.

The Canons hereof are of great riches and power, and have the Election of the Biſhop and Prince, who hath alſo had the Titles of Duke of Bouillon, Marquiſs of Franchimont, and Count of Lootz and Haſbania. In the Coin of Maximilian, the preſent Elector of Colen and Biſhop of Liege, I find this Inſcription:

Maximilianus Henricus Dei gratiâ Archiepiſcopus Colonienſis, Epiſcopus & Princeps Leodienſis, Supremus Bullonenſis Dux.

Speutus the Biſhop of Liege, bought the Principality of Liege of Godfrey of Bouillon, when he went to the Holy Land: And in the Treaty of Cambray, 1559. the poſſeſſion of Bouillon, and precedency of Title, was granted to the Biſhop of Liege, although at this time alſo the Houſes of La Tour and Mark do bear the ſame.

Of the Pariſh Churches that of St. John, and of St. Servaſius are fair. Of the Abbies that of St. Jacob within the Town, and of St. Lawrence, built by Biſhop Raginardus upon an Hill out of the Town, are noble. There is alſo a Colledge of Engliſh Jeſuites, well-ſeated upon a Hill, where the Garden is handſome, and the Dyals made by Franciſcus Linus, are worth the ſeeing: And an Engliſh Nunnery handſomely built. In the Church of the Gulielmites, out of the Town, lieth the Body of our famous Country-man Sir John Mandeville, who, after he had travelled through ſo many parts, took an affection unto this place, and here paſſed the remainder of his life, and whoſe Epitaph, and ſome Rarities of his, are ſtill to be ſeen.

Biſhop Notger, who was conſecrated by St. Gereon, Arch-biſhop of Colen, and died in the year 1007. built the walls of this City, and being Tutor to Otho the third, he found means very much to beautifie it, to repair and build divers Churches, and endow them with rich Revenues, and let the River Maes into the Town, which before ran upon one ſide of it.

As their Churches are fair and numerous, ſo are their Bells and Chimes remarkable. In the Cathedral of St. Lambert there are eight large Bells, and twelve leſſer; and there is one ſo great, as it is ſaid to require Twenty four men to ring it. In the Church of St. Paul the Bells and Chimes are conſiderable; as alſo at St. Lawrence and the croſſed Friers. It is alſo an Univerſity, and was ſo famous in former Ages, that they ſtill take notice that at one time there have been Nine Sons of Kings, Twenty four Dukes Sons, Twenty nine of Counts, beſides many of great Barons Students therein.

Their Speech here, as alſo at Spaw, is called Roman, and is a kind of old French, or Dialect of that Language, a great part of which is made up of Latin, or Roman words: and they call the Neighbouring Language of the Dutch, Tuiſcon. But many ſpeak very good French. They have ſome Vineyards affording a ſmall Wine. The Hills about furniſh them with Quarries of good Stone, and of ſeveral kinds. They have alſo divers Mines and Minerals, and great quantity of Pit-coal for Fire, in ſome places fetched deep out of the Earth, in others nearer the Surface: and in one place I ſaw them beginning to dig where they immediately found Coal. Their Pumps and Engines to draw out the water, are very conſiderable at theſe Mines; in ſome places moved by Wheels, at above a Furlongs diſtance, to which they are continued by ſtrong Wood-work, which moves backwards and forwards continually.

The Citadel ſtandeth upon a Hill, and is of great Strength; It was built to keep the City of Liege under Subjection. For 1649. there being ſome diſturbances in the City, Ferdinand, the Elector of Colen, offering to come into the Town to appeaſe it, was oppoſed by the Conſul, Jacobus Hennet, who was ſoon after ſurpriſed and beheaded, together with Bartholomaeus Rolandus; the Conſul having ſworn the Elector ſhould never come in whilſt he were alive. And the Citadel ſoon after was ordered to be built. The Bridges are handſome: that over the great Stream of the Maes is very broad and fair, and hath large Arches. From hence we could read the Elector's name upon the Citadel, Maximilianus, although it were at a very great diſtance, the Letters were ſo large.

From Liege we had a pleaſant paſſage down the Water to Maeſtreicht, paſſing by Argentau, a Caſtle ſeated upon a high Rock on the right ſide of the River, belonging then to the King of Spain, afterwards by Vichet in the half way, and then by Navagne, a ſtrong Fort in the Maes, which commands the River, and at that time did the Spaniard ſervice; then by pleaſant Rocks on our left hand, wherein many Cuts and Paſſages have been digged, till we came in ſight of Maeſtreicht.

This Town having been a little before taken from the United States by a ſharp Siege, was full of French, and had a Garriſon in it of about Ten thouſand men; and in the Market-place ſtood about Two hundred large Fieldpieces. We ſaw the places where they had their Batteries and their Mines, and the Half-moon which the Duke of Monmouth took: the Out-works were very numerous, and many of them undermined. Colonel Storff ſhew'd us a handſome Draught of all the Works, Approaches and Manner of taking of the Town.

About a quarter of a Mile out of the Town we went into the great Quarry of Stone, which is one of the nobleſt ſure in the World. Between Padoa and Vicenza I had formerly ſeen the famous Cave of Cuſtoza, or Cubola, ſaid to be above Five hundred Fathoms in breadth, and Seven hundred in length, but this doth far ſurpaſs it: the Roof is very high and ſtately in moſt places, the Pillars not to be numbred, all very large; we paſſed two miles under ground amongſt them: No Labyrinth can be contrived more intricate, and yet all parts are uniform. The Floor all in a level, and the Roof in moſt places of the ſame height, and ſo much hath that uniform rule, which I ſuppoſe was ſet to thoſe who firſt digged, and ſo hath ſucceſſively been obſerved, added to the beauty of this place, that there is ſcarce any thing more noble. It put me in mind of the hundred Chambers of Nero, which he cauſed to be made under Ground in the Rocks at Baiae. And the Water which we met with in one place, made me think of Nero's admirable Fiſh-pond, built in the like manner within the Earth. We came out again near to a Convent upon the Banks of the River, and returned by water to Maeſtreicht.

The next day we parted Company. Mr. Newton, Mr. Ettrick, Mr. Grove, Mr. Carlton, and Mr. Newcomb went for Aken and Colen; Mr. Bates and Mr. Daſton went up the River again to Liege, at which place, ſtaying a day or two to find a convenience to paſs to Bruſſels, we were nobly entertained at a Dinner with Veniſon, Wild-boar, and other Diſhes, by that worthy Perſon and Learned Mathematician Franciſcus Sluſius, one of the great Canons of Liege, who alſo continued his high Civilities to us to the laſt Minute we ſtayed in Town.

Leaving Liege we ſoon came in ſight of Tongres, or Tungrorum oppidum, the moſt ancient place in all theſe Countries. Ortelius would have it to be called of old Atuatuca: It was a ſtrong hold before the coming of Julius Caeſar into Gaul, and was afterwards made a Roman Station, and in proceſs of time became ſo great, that Attila the Hun deſtroyed an hundred Churches in it, it being at that time a Biſhops See, which in the year 498 St. Servatius removed unto Maeſtreicht. Many old Coins and Antiquities are ſtill found here; and part of an old Chappel, ſaid to be built by St. Maternus, Diſciple to St. Peter, is ſtill remaining. When the King of France made his great inroad into the Low Countries, 1672. he borrowed this Town of the Elector of Cologne, and then paſſed on to Maſeick, where croſſing the Country to the Rhine, by the ſides of theſe great Rivers, Rhine and Maes, he made that notable Incurſion, and quitted not Tongres till he had taken Maeſtreicht the year following. We dined this day at Borchloe, and lodged at St. Trurn, or St. Truden, a handſome little Town, ſo called from a Church and Abby herein dedicated to that Saint.

The next day we dined at Tienen, or Tilmont, on the little River Geet, once one of the chief Towns in Brabant, but long ſince decayed. In theſe Plain Countries, in many places we ſaw ſmall Hills, or Sepulchral Eminences of the Ground: And near unto the Walls of Yienen, are three very remarkable ones, ſaid to be the Tombs of great Commanders. In the Evening we came to Lovain.

Lovain is the chief City of that quarter of Brabant, which comprehendeth Arſchot, Halen, and Judoigne; an ancient and large City, pleaſantly ſeated upon the River Dele; it is of great Circuit, and the compaſs of the wall accounted above four miles about: but there are many void Spaces, Hills, Fields, and Gardens within it, which makes it very pleaſant and delightful. There are herein divers good Buildings, Convents, and Churches: the chief whereof is the ſtately Church of St. Peter, the Convent of the Carthuſians, the Hoſpital. The publick Palace or Senate-houſe are alſo Noble.

It is the great Univerſity of theſe parts, ſaid to have had its beginning about 926. but endowed by John the Fourth, Duke of Brabant, and confirmed by Pope Martin the Fifth, 1425. There are Forty three Colledges in it; whereof the four chief are Lilium, Falco, Caſtrum, Porcus. Goropius Becanus, a Learned Man, and Native of Bruſſels, affirmeth, That no Univerſity in Italy, France, Germany, or Spain, is to be compared unto it for its elegant and pleaſant Situation. The Univerſity is under the Government of Rector, who is in great eſteem and honour among them. This Univerſity hath produced many Learned Men: But neither the Buildings of the Colledges, nor their Endowments do equal thoſe of our Univerſities, and the Situation thereof ſeems not to exceed that of Oxford.

We travelled from hence to Bruſſels, being moſt part of the way in the ſight of the very high Tower of the Church of St. Rombald at Machlin.

Count Monterei was then Governour of the Low-Countries, and reſided at Bruſſels, the ordinary Seat of the Governours of the Spaniſh Netherlands; which City he had taken care to fortifie, and to make it more tenable, if it ſhould be attempted by the French.

From Bruſſels we paſſed to Antwerp, where we were handſomely treated by Mr. Wauters and Mr. Hartop, and having viſited ſome of our Friends, the next day we paſſed the River Schelde, and took Coach in the morning, travelling through a fruitful, plain, flat Country, ſet with rows of Trees in moſt places, and arrived in the evening at Ghent.

Gaunt, Gandavum, or Ghent, is eſteemed to be the greateſt City, not only of Flanders, but of all the Law-Countries, and challengeth a pace amongſt the greateſt in Europe; but at preſent it decreaſeth and decays rather than encreaſeth. And if Charles the Fifth were now alive, he could not put Paris into his Gant, a greater Glove would not fit that City, which is ſo much increaſed ſince his time. In Ghent are many noble Convents, among which the Jeſuites is one of the faireſt: There is a Cloiſter alſo of Engliſh Nuns. The Cathedral is ſtately, and the Tower belonging to it being very high, gives a proſpect of a pleaſant and fruitful Country round about it. There are divers Piazza's, large and fair; in one of which ſtands a large gilded Statua of Charles the Fifth, Emperour and King of Spain, who was born in this City. The whole Town is generally well-built, and the Streets are fair and clean. The Inhabitants hereof have been taken notice of to be extreamly given to Sedition, and for their ſakes a great many other Cities in Europe are puniſhed, and have in a manner totally loſt their Liberties: For the Spaniards, to curb the Seditious humour of the People of Ghent, were put upon the Invention of building Citadels in Cities, whereby a few Souldiers are able to ſuppreſs any Commotion, or beat down the Town, ſo that here I ſaw the firſt Citadel that was built in Europe by Charles the Fifth: It is not large, and the Baſtions little, and though of a Regular Figure, yet not ſo convenient as thoſe of latter days, ſince that Art hath been improved.

From Ghent we paſſed by water about Twenty Engliſh miles to Bruges, a very elegant large City, and formerly a place of very great Trade, being within three Leagues of the Sea; ſo that from the tops of their higheſt Buildings, the Ships under Sail are viſible, and at the ſame time a Fleet of Ships, and a large Territory of a fruitful, pleaſant Country, cometh under your eye. It is fortified with Works of Earth and deep Ditches. The Convents are numerous: The artificial Cuts of Water from this Town to all places, maketh it of eaſie acceſs; and though it hath no Port, the Paſſage from hence to Oſtend by water is ſhort: And they are at preſent upon a Deſign of bringing Ships up to this City.

Oſtend is about Ten Engliſh miles from Bruges, ſeated upon the waves of the German Ocean, which waſh it continually on one ſide: And they have now contrived it ſo, as to let the Sea in almoſt round the Town for a great ſpace, whereby it is become much more ſtrong and defenſible than before. For when I looked upon it, and conſidered what it was when it was beſieged by Archduke Albertus, and taken by Marquiſs Ambroſius Spinola, 1604. with an honourable Surrender after three years Siege, I cannot but aſcribe very much unto their Supplies from England, and the obſtinate Valour of the Defendants, eſpecially the Engliſh under Sir Francis Vere. Sluys being in the hands of the States of the United Provinces, and Dunkirk under the French. The Spaniards poſſeſs no other Port in Flanders but this and Newport; and this being the moſt conſiderable, they are now making the Haven large, and are upon a conſiderable Work in order to the carrying of their Ships over into that Cut which goeth from Oſtend to Bruges, out of their Harbour, by the means of a very great Lock or Receptacle of Water, which is to communicate with both; which, when it is finiſhed, may be very advantageous to the Traffick. of the Spaniſh Netherlands. This Town ſtands very low, but the Streets are ſtreight, large, and uniform

From hence I went all along upon the Sea-ſhoar to Newport, a handſome Town, with large fair Streets, but low built. There were then a great number of ſmall Ships in the Harbour. This place is famous for the Battel of Newport, fought here by Albertus, and Count Maurice, wherein the Spaniſh Forces loſt the day, and much of the honour of the Field was due unto the Engliſh under Sir Francis Vere; ſince which time, although there hath been much blood ſhed in theſe Quarters, yet there hath not been ſo conſiderable a Battel ever ſince, although the Engliſh had alſo the fortune to do great Service hereabout at a fight called the Battel of the Sandhils, when a part of the Army of French and Engliſh, which beſieged Dunkirk, fought with the Spaniſh Forces by Newport, and overthrew them.

From Newport we put to Sea, ſailing out of the Harbour, and intending for England; but the wind being very high and contrary, after having been at Sea all the night, and had leiſure to take notice of the great number of Sands upon that Coaſt, in the morning we put into Mardike, where at preſent there is only a Fort of Wood juſt above the High-water mark, with ſome few Guns mounted. The other Fort, more into the Land, being demoliſhed.

Dunkirk is much increaſed of late, and the King of France hath not ſpared mony to render it conſiderably ſtrong. He hath very near finiſhed a noble Citadel, begun by the Engliſh while this Town was in their poſſeſſion, which hath the Sea on one ſide of it, the Haven on another, and the Sandhills towards the Land, which when the wind is at South-weſt, doth ſomewhat annoy it: To prevent which, the French have made divers Cuts and Chanels through the Sands, into which the Sea entring, doth moiſten and fix the Sand, ſo as they are not ſo apt to fly. And every Baſtion is ſprucely kept and covered within with green Turf. Beyond the old Wall of the Town, there are now great Works drawn, which encompaſs ſo large a ſpace of Ground, that the Town is made bigger by half: And in this part ſtands the Engliſh Nunnery, and many handſome Buildings. The new Fortifications are very large; and the Baſtion towards the North the moſt ſtately, upon which the King of France entertained the Duke of Monmouth. The Port is large, and capable of receiving a great number of Ships, but at low water it is almoſt dry; and there are ſo many Sands before it, that at that time the Sea comes not in any depth within a mile of it.

From Dunkirk we travelled by Land to Graveling, where the Works are of Earth, large and high, the Church ſtately, the Streets broad, but the Houſes low, and at preſent not populous.

From Graveling I came to Calais, from whence ſetting Sail in the morning, we came to Dover, and the ſame day to London.

FINIS.

A Catalogue of ſome Books Printed for Benj-Tooke at the Ship in St. Paul's Church-yard. THe Works of the Moſt Reverend Father in God, John Bramhall, late L. Arch-Biſh. of Ardmagh. Fol. Several Chirurgical Treatiſes, by Richard Wiſeman Serjeant Chirurgion to his Majeſty. Fol. Skinneri Etymologicon Linguae Anglicanae. Fol. Biſhop Sanderſon's Sermons. Fol. Bentivolio and Urania, by N. Ingelo, D. D. Fol. Mr. Faringdon's Sermons compleat, Three Vol. Fol. Dr. Heylin on the Creed. Fol. Lord Bacon's Advancement of Learning. Fol. Lightfoot. Horae Hebraicae in Johannem. Quarto. Dr. Brown's Travels in Hungaria, Servia, Bulgaria, Macedonia, Theſſaly, Auſtria, Styria, Carinthia, Carniola, and Friuli, with Sculptures. Quarto. A Repreſentation of the State of Chriſtianity in England, and of its decay and danger from Sectaries as well as Papiſts. Langhornii Elenchus Antiquitatum Albionenſium. Oct. Batei Elenchus Motuum Nuperorum in Anglia. Johannis Stearne de Obſtinatione Opus Poſthumum. Praefixa ſunt Prolegomena Apologetica. Octavo. Two Letters of Advice; 1. For ſuſception of H. Orders. 2. For Studies Theological, eſpecially ſuch as are Rational. Oct. Some Conſiderations of preſent Concernment, how far the Romaniſts may be truſted by Princes of another Perſwaſion. 8. Two ſhort Diſcourſes againſt the Romaniſts. 1. An Account of the Fundamental Principle of Popery, and of the Inſufficiency of the Proofs they have for it. 2. An Anſwer to Six Queries, 12. Theſe four by Henry Dodwell M. A. ſometimes Fellow of Trinity Colledge near Dublin.