An ACCOUNT OF Mr. R. Rogers's Three Years Travels OVER England and Wales.
FROM London, the Epitome of England it self, we took our Journy thro' Middlesex, a County famous for its goodly Edifices, as well wisely Compacted together upon the Banks of Thames; as likewise for divers stately Palaces dispersed in several Parts thereof. The first Town of Note we came to was Colebrook, which takes its Name from the River Cole; a Town of great Antiquity, and of a considerable length, and well stored with Inns: We stayed here a small time, and so set forward to Maidenhead.
[Page 2] MAIDENHEAD is Eight Miles distance from Colebrook, and so we came into the Confines of Barkshire. It is a County of near equal Length and Breadth; it was thus Denominated from the Superstitious Adoration that was given to the Brittish Maid, being one of the Eleven Thousand, which by the Conduct of St. Ursla, returning home from Rome were all Martyr'd at Cologne in Germany by the Tyrant Attila, that most cruel Scourge to the Christians. 'Tis of no long Date or standing; and it is certain, as I was credibly informed, That Julius Caesar making an Inrode into this County did pass over the River not far from this Place, and by the voluntary Submission of these People here, did soon compleat his Conquest amongst them.
Windsor.
In this County is Windsor. This Place was given away by Edward the Confessor from the Crown to the Church of Westminster; but William the Conqueror taking a very great Affection to it by reason of its pleasant Situation, made an Exchange with the Abbot of Westminster for some other Lands in the room of this, and so it returned to the Crown again. The Palace in which the King resides when he comes down hither, is inferior to none for Sight and Pleasure throughout all His Majesty's Dominions. In [Page 3] the front of it lies a pleasant Valley, checquered with the various colors of Green and Red Verdant Meadows, and fertile Tillage, melodious Woods, and the murmuring of the Noble River Thames. Behind it is a pleasant Prospect of a delightful Forrest, designed on purpose by Nature for Sport and Recreation, whilst she so liberally stocks it with numerous Herds of Deer, lurking amongst the shady. Thickets; and our Kings and Nobles did very usually resort hither from the City of London, it being so fine a Place of pleasure and delight. K. Edward the Third being born at this Town, did much augment and strengthen the Castle there upon the Hill, which Henry the First had before erected, fortifying the same with strong Walls and Trenches, which are now to be seen. After K. Edward the Third had subdued both the French and Scots, and took their Kings Captive, he Committed John, King of France, and David, King of the Scots, for some time Prisoners to this Castle, which is divided into two Partitions; in the first, which looks towards the East, is the King's Palace, splendid and glorious; in the other, which is the outward Partition, stands a stately Church, Dedicated by Edward the Third to the Virgin Mary and St. George, but beautified and illustrated with most rare and curious Work; K. Edward the Fourth lies enterred [Page 4] therein: But that which makes it still more Holy and Venerable is, the Body of our Sacred Martyr K. Charles the First, tha [...] Royal Saint of ever Blessed Memory. From hence we w [...]nt to Reading.
READING in this County is a Town of very good Note, and not inferior to any in all that County. It is situated, as it were, on the side of a little Hill, with a small ascent towards the Market-place. It is very well watered by a good River which runs along the one side of it, and hath the Noble River of Thames, which comes within a little distance, on the other side. It hath a Mayor for its chief Magistrate, and it is famous for a very great Market once a Week for all Sorts of Grain. We stayed here but one Night, having a design to take a farther view of this County by Wallingford, and so to
ABBINGTON, This is a fair Town in this County; the River Isis after it hath winded it self a long way about in a crooked Channel, makes its approach to this Town. It is a large and populous Place, and receives its Denomination from a famous Abby which was here erected, although this Monastery did, for some Years, flourish exceedingly, yet it was afterwards Subverted by the fury of the Danes; but through the [Page 5] Bounties and Munificence of King Edgar▪ was restored again to its Primitive Splendor and Greatness, and by the Industry and Care of the Norman Abbots, it grew to that pitch of Grandeur, and so exceeding Rich and Wealthy, that it began to have an Esteem of it self beyond all Comparison, and indeed the Ruins too be-speak it to have been a very glorious Structure: As for the Town, though it had its chief Dependance from this Abby, yet from the Year 1430, that one John, Surnamed St. Helena, built a strong Bridge of Stone over its River, and so made a Through-fair and High Road through the Town, it began to be populous, and much frequented, and ever since hath been most deservedly reputed the eminent, principle Town in this County. The Inhabitants are great Maulsters, and Barly is the great Commodity of the Market. The Magistrates, by their Vigilancy and Care, do keep up this Corporation in great Honour and Request, and the Mayor and Aldermen are very Circumspect in the discharge of their Offices; and for the more great and weighty Matters which are above their Sphere, the Judges, when they come their Circuit, and keep the Assizes here for the County, do ease them of that trouble, by giving a final Determination of all.
[Page 6] FARRINGDON was the next Town of Note we went to in this County, which though it be situated upon a stony Soil, yet 'tis now as famous for its great Market, as it was once Renowned for its Impregnable Fortress, which Robert, Earl of Gloucester, built here against King Stephen, which the King though with the loss of a great number of Soldiers, at last by his continual Assaults and Batteries took and utterly demolished.
But one thing is to be observed in this County; That it is very pleasant and fertile, watered with the River Isis, adorned with woody Hills and thick Groves, and in its Eastern parts thereof with fertile Valleys, and in the Western part, being called The Vale of White Horse, is extreamly delightful, and Nature compensates the Barrenness of the Soil in one place, by her manifold Gifts she bestows upon it in another.
NEWBURY was the next place we went to. 'Tis a Town of very good Note, and of a considerable largeness, governed by a Mayor and Aldermen, and hath a very commodious Market-house, which is not much inferior to any in the County. The Town is situated in a pleasant Valley, and watered by a very good River, called Newbury River, which runs through one part of the Town near the Market-house; and in the other part of it is a [Page 7] very find Rivelet, which runs from one end of the Town to the other, and is mighty necessary for all the Inhabitants. We made no long stay here, but went to Marlborough in Wiltshire, of which hereafter.
Wiltshire.
MARLBOROUGH is a Town of an indifferent largeness, and is Ruled by a Mayor and Aldermen. The Buildings of this Town, and the Market-place, are not much inferior to any Town in England; but that which is most remarkable, and to be admired at is, a Mount belonging to the Duke of Summerset, the like is not in England. The Mount it self is made round, with a Quickset Hedge which is all entire, and goes several times round about, the Mount rising with a very small Ascent till it comes up to the top; within this Hedge is a very plain Path, or Walk, and the ground seems to be so even, that you cannot well perceive the rise of it till you are at the top, which is of a very great height, and of a large circumference, but yet as you go down you may easily perceive the ground fall much. The Gardner there told us, That it is a Mile from the bottom up to the top, and go the Path-way which leads up to it. On the top of the Mount, is a very fine level piece of Ground, planted with several sorts of Fruit-Trees; [Page 8] there stands likewise on the top, a very large leaden Cestern, of about 12 foot square, and 4 foot deep, and is replenished with Water by a leaden Pipe, which comes from a Spring along the Path that leads up to the top. On the one side of this Mount is a very commodious Wilderness, and on the other a fine Garden; in a word, this Mount is the most to be admired, and must have the Respect of all Travellers, to be the greatest piece of Artificial Workmanship in our own Nation. We stayed here but one Night, and went to take a farther View of this County, in which there are many things very observable. About two Miles out of this Town is a great Down, called Marlborough Downs, where there is an exceeding Curiosity of Nature's workmanship, it is a huge number of Massy Stones, they are called by the Name of The Grey Wethers, and shew to your sight, at a distance, like a great number of Sheep, and some of them higher; but for the great number of them, and containing such a vast distance of Land, to be all in one and the like posture. It is a large Plain, or Valley, between two Hills where they stand, and is in breadth almost a Mile, and about six Miles in length, as we were informed, undoubtedly it hath as much need to be mentioned, as any thing in the Kingdom. Having made some Observations here, we went to take [Page 9] some account of Stonehenge in this County, of which I shall give you a short Relation.
STONEHENGE. This place contains in it, within the circumference of three Hundred foot, a rude and indigested Mass of vast large Stones, rough, and of a grey colour, 25 Foot in length, 10 in breadth, and 8 in thickness; they look as if they were hewen square, and are joined two and two together, and every couple hath a third Stone lying a-cross, which is fastened by Tennants that enter into Mortesses, not closed with any Morter. It appears as if they had been set in three Ranks going round, as Circles, one within another, whereof the uttermost and largest is in compass about 300 Foot, but the other Ranks are decayed, and some of them being faln down to the ground, 'tis very difficult to reckon how many there are; likewise it seems very strange, how such immense Bulks should happen here, where there is no Stones of any small demension within the Neighbourhood: Whereupon some are of an Opinion, That they are not purely natural, or had their growth in this place. 'Tis now generally credited and believed, that they were a Monument set up by Aurelius Ambrose, in Remembrance of the Brittains that were Slain and Buried there, in the Reign of Vortiger, at a Banquet and Communication of Hengist, which the Saxons and [Page 10] Brittish Chronicles testifie, That whereas the Saxons about the Year of our Lord 450. had slain Four hundred and eighty of the Brittish Nobility by Treachery, under a Colour of a Parley and Treaty; this Aurelius Ambrose being then King of the Brittains, desirous to continue their Memory, as well as the Infamy of his base and treacherous Enemies, caused these Stones to be set up in the very place of their Death and Burial, the which Stones had been first brought out of Africk into Ireland, and there placed on Mount Killare, and from thence, by the Art and Magick of Merlina, a renowned Magician in that Age, were at length conveyed to this place upon this very Occasion. Others think, that the Brittains did Erect this, as a Monument for Ambrosius himself, to perpetuate his glorious Name to Posterity, who died afterwards upon this place by the Sword, in the Answer of their Quarrel, and Vindication of their Liberties; however certain it is, that there are thereabouts certain little Hills, or Banks, under which there are sometimes found Bones of tall, gigantick Men, and pieces of Armour; and not far from hence, remains still some of the Ruins of an old kind of Fortress, which the Romans, as it is probable, did raise for themselves, during their Possession of these our Territories, &c.
From hence we went to Wilton-House, belonging to the Earl of Pembrook. It is situated [Page 11] in a pleasant Valley, and hath the Town of Wilton on the one side of it, and a spacious Park on the other side, with delightful Gardens and Meadows on the other sides, and a fine River running through the Gardens. In this House are excellent Rooms, and great variety of Pictures, and in the Gardens are undoubtedly the most curious Water-works that are in all England. We did not tarry long here, but went away to Salisbury, of which I shall inform you as briefly as I can.
Leaving Wilton-House we rode to Salisbury, and in our way beheld the place where formerly old Wilton, the Metropolis of this County, stood, called Willey. 'Tis situated, saith Cambden, where the two Rivers Willeybrook and Alderbourne meet; and here it was that Egbert, King of the West Saxons, in the Year of our Lord 821, fought the second Battle against the Mercians, so bloody on both sides, that the River Avon was all over dyed red with the Blood of the slain; and in the Year 871, Alfred having maintained a long Fight against the Danes, and upon the first Onset had success, but was at last quite routed, his Forces defeated, and himself forced to flee away to preserve his life. In the Saxons reign it flourished mightily, and Edgar built there a Nunnery, and made his Daughter Editha Lady Governess thereof; afterwards being [Page 12] long exposed to the fury of the Danes, who were its Mortal Enemies, and deserted the Bishops of Salisbury, who were at first its Supporters, it went to decay, and almost returned again on a sudden into its first Principle of Nothing; and so old Salisbury then, and since new Salisbury which hath sprang from that, have quite extinguished its Primitive Lustre and Glory. Old Salisbury was situated upon a Hill, exposed much to Winds and Storms, very dry, barren and uncomfortable▪ by reason of the great Defect of Water throughout the whole City; it was well fortified, as appears by some ancient pieces o [...] Walls which are there still to be seen. The Saxons, in the Year 553, first Sacked it, and took it, and in the Reign of Edward the Second, Osmund, Bishop of Sherbourne, Translated the See hither, and built a Cathedral Church, though the Danes not long after, having took and burnt the City, that likewise underwent the same fatal Calamity, and was levelled with the ground, till both of them were raised again in William the Conqueror's time; for after that he had made his Progress throughout all his Kingdom of England, he at last Summoned all the Three Orders of the Nation to come hither, and here to take their Oaths of Allegiance to him: But afterwards in the Reign of Richard the First, the Citizens being oppressed by the Insolence of [Page 13] the Soldiers, which then kept Garrison, and was in great want for Water, resolved to free themselves from these Burdens, by Transplanting themselves into another Soil, which they unanimously agreed upon, and seated themselves about a Mile from this place in a more pleasant Valley, where the flowry Meads, and Chrystial-stream'd Rivers, gave them a more hearty Welcome, and far better Entertainment than before they were acquainted withal. After a new Colony was Transplanted hither, Richard Pore, first Bishop of Chichester, then of Salisbury, afterwards of Durham, did likewise Transplant the Cathedral from the barren, dry place in which it was erected near to the old Castle of the Earls of Salisbury, and built it in a more plentiful Soil; this most pious Prelate, for he did not only Transplant it, but (by the Advice and Contrivance of the most excellent and ingenious Artificers, not only Natives, but Foreigners, whom he drew hither by his large Rewards) he raised it to that Splender and Magnificence, that now it matches with the staliest of Structures, for the rare Workmanship thereof throughout the Nation. The Steeple is built in the form of a Pyramid very high, and as the Pole Star directs the Pilot at Sea, so doth this Spire direct the wandring Traveller over the Plain, discovering its lofty head at the distance of 20 Miles, as we were [Page 14] credibly inform'd; but the admirableness of the Structure consists in this, That it hath as many Pillars as there are Hours in the Year, and these not close but you may see the Entertices betwixt them, and shake those that are of the lesser size, and there is as many Windows as there are Days in the Year, and these very artificially Adorned, and curiously Painted to admiration; and there is likewise as many Doors as there is Weeks in the Year, and as many Chappels as Months. Thus did this great Prelate, which by augmenting it, augment his own Fame, and even Cannoniz himself: And as the Church was then re-edified, so was the City much enlarged too by the Citizens, and for the more sweetness, as well as cleanliness of their Habitations, they made several Channels and Rivolets in the midst of their Streets very commodious and beneficial to them. Thus, by degrees, Old Salisbury is vanished away, and very little to be seen in it, but the Ruins and old Walls of the Earl's Castle, and one small Dwelling-house, and New Salisbury is become glorious and aimable, resorted to, and frequented and admired by Persons of all Qualities and Degrees; for its Houses are stately, its Churches magnificent, its Streets clean, its Rivers pleasant and well stored with Fish, its Gardens delightful and very fragrant, and nothing wanting in it to please either [Page 15] the Eye or the Pallate; it is governed by a Mayor and Aldermen. Thus have I given you a brief Account of Wiltshire, I could have wrote much more, for there are many other things very observable in this County, especially for Travellers to take notice of, which is too tedious here to relate.
Summersetshire.
The first Place of Note we came to in this County was Wells, the chief City of the Shire, and receives its Denomination from the variety of fresh and wholsome Springs which bubble up about it in great abundance. The Houses therein are well contrived, and built of Stone, the Government safe and regular, but the chief Ornament hereof is the Cathedral, built by King Ina in honour to St. Andrew; the Church hath been enriched with large Revenues by religious Benefactors; it was made a Bishop's See in the Reign of King Edward the Second, and Eadulphus was Constituted the first Bishop here in the Reign of William Rufus, and in the Year 1092, John, a Turon born, being elected Bishop, united that of Bath with this; and hence it comes to pass, that he that is Bishop of this See, is called Bishop of Bath and Wells. This Church underwent the same Calamities that other religious Places did in this Kingdom, and took [Page 16] away the Revenues annexed to it; 'tis a magnificent Structure, and the Quire of it yeilds to none for stateliness; if we consider the artificial Bosses very delicately gilded which adorn it above, or the curious Columns which uphold it below, or the Bishop's Seat of Marble, set out with most glorious Embellishments, supported with rich Pillars, and with its towring Piramids, being the Head and Ornament in a more especial manner of the Quire, as he is of the Church; to this I may add the variety of carved Images, which almost environ the Church on the out side, containing the History of the Old Testament, and the curious Architecture of the Chapter-house, supported only by one large Column which stands in the middle of it. Near unto the Church is the Bishop's Palace of great Grandeur, which becomes a Reverend Father of the Church to be seated ed in. But the remarkablest, and which cannot but have the respect of all Travellers to be the most admirable piece of Nature's Workmanship in our Kingdom, is a Place called Ochy-hole, two Miles from this City: 'Tis a Cave under a very high Rock, situated amongst the Mendippe-hills, of which I shall endeavour to give a Description as briefly as I can.
[Page 17] OCHY-HOLE. After that we had, with some difficulty, climbed up to the top of a Rock, we went along the Brow of a Hill till we came to the Mouth of the Cave, where opening a Door that gave entrance, and lighting 24 Candles of 6 in the Pound, which we provided for that purpose, we ventured in; being got within it, we found the Cave very hollow, and so dark, that the Candles there scarce burning so bright, though there were 24, as two doth ordinary in the Night in one of our largest Rooms; we thought certainly we had been come into the Confines of the Infernal Regions, or some such dismal Place, and began to be affraid to visit it, viz. That although we entered in frolicksome and merry, yet we might return out of it Sad and Pensive, and never more be seen to Laugh whilst we lived in the World; such dreadful Apprehensions seized upon some of us; and indeed we had cause to fear some such Operations might have proceeded from this, as well as the other, since both were equally uncomfortable, by reason of our deprivation from the least glimmerings of light, and consequently had the same Circumstances to beget both Horror and Amazement: however we plucked up our Spirits, and crept in one after another as fast as we could conveniently: The Cave as we went a long was parted into several kinds of Rooms, the [Page 16] [...] [Page 17] [...] [Page 18] Names whereof our Guides informed us: The first was the Kitchin, and at the Door sticks out a large Mass of the Rock, which, they tell us, was the Porter's head, formerly the Keeper of this Cave; it bears the resemblance of a Head, and by that lies a Stone which they call The Tombstone, under which, the Report is, That his Body lies Enterred, and his Dogherd by him in the same substance; yet their Transformations are not so strange and wonderful, being something too fabulous to be given Credit to, as the variety which the Rock affords into which they are incorporated, part of it glistering like Silver, and part like Diamonds, and both appear very pleasant to the Eye: A little further on the right hand is another piece of the Rock that bears the resemblance of a Bell, and on the left hand a Vessel, which they term a But, in which the Beer of an old Sorceress, (Cousin to the famous Circe, Lady Governess of this dismal Cave,) used to be work'd in; 'tis a hollow Cestern of a considerable depth always filled with Water, and now and then flowing over, to which the drops of Water which continually trickle down from the top of the Rock add every moment fresh supplies; hard by this stands another Vessel of hers, in which, they say, she made her Mault, they call it the East Hurdle, 'tis likewise hollow, and of a pretty depth. Now [Page 19] appears unto your view the old Witch her self, heating of her Furnace which seems black and sooty; it seems to be Alablaster, by reason of its whiteness, though 'tis most probable to be the product of Nature, and not of Art, because the place is very unfit and very unsuitable for any Artist to exercise his Skill in, it being very oft so low, that it is impossible here and there for any one to stand upright in it; and therefore it was that we were forced frequently to stoop, and buckle almost double for fear of hiting our Heads against the Rock, until we came to some Steps which we were to descend, and the Defect thereto was very tedious and affrightful, for on the right hand the Rock hung down over us extream low and sloping, and on the left hand a great Rivolet which runs along through the Cave, being pretty deep, and making a loud noise in its gliding, yet at length we came sweating into another Room which is called The Hall, and here, at first sight, we were entertained with as great a Rarity as Nature hath in all her Store-houses, 'tis a Cestern almost square, about six Foot each way, and of a considerable depth, always brimful of Water, supplied by the Drops which falls from above; but that which is to be admired in it is this, tho' the Water be constantly droping, and is continually brimful, yet it never runs over, as [Page 20] our Guides told us. Round about this Hall hangs four Stones resembling four Fletches of Bacon, for the outside is blackish and the inside white; in this place the Daughter of the old Sorceress had took up her Residence, and appears to your eye like the Statue of a Woman that is great with Child; she is of a different colour from her Mother, being much more dusky than she is: But nothing more pretty to behold here than those which they call The Organ Pipes placed upon one side of the Rock, and are very like to those we have in our Churches, some being of bigger and some of lesser Dimensions, in the middle of a good reasonable thickness though at the ends sharp and slender. After some more Difficulties in our Passage, and no less dangerous than before, we came into another part of the Cave more strange than any we had yet seen. 'Tis a place they call the Dancing Room, so well Contriv'd, and so curiously set forth, that Nature hath wrought here what Art could never do or comprehend, both above and below; if you look up, the variety of Colours which are there to be seen by the light of the Candles, and the checquered Configurations of the Rock, which is now very high above your head; will both feast your Eyes and refresh your Body, which by that time is sufficiently wearied by the tediousness, as well as the trouble [Page 21] of the Passage; for there is so great a glistering, such a Lustre as it were of Silver and precious Stones round about you, that you would be ready to mistake your self, and think that you were in the Palace of some great Monarch of the Earth, and not in such a dismal Cave; and if you look down, there you will find no stony, hard, ruggy Tract to perplex you, but a fine, even, sandy Flower, and indeed beyond expectation, that we who had beheld such craggy Stones and dangerous Passages should at last arrive in so spacious and delightful a place; they told us, That it was very usual for Gentlemen and Ladies, that lived thereabouts, to bring Musick and Dance here, the Musick making a more sweeter Melody than ordinary; we paused and breathed a little here, delighting our selves as well with it, as also with the resemblance of a Chimney, which we took really to be one, it being of that fashion, and having in it a kind of black moist Matter, which, if you touch it, will stick to your fingers, and black them like Soot, and yet no fire was ever known to be there: But we were not as yet satisfied, though we were above 300 Yards under the Ground, and in a most horrid Dungeon, but went still farther to a place termed The Seller, that is curiously vaulted, and 'tis very usual to carry Bottles of Wine and drink there upon a stone Table [Page 22] which is form'd in it of natural Stone; in this place lies also a great Stone which they call The Great Gun, the nature of it is this, take it but up in your hands, and let it fall down to the ground, and a great Gun cannot give a louder Report. We tried the Experiment thrice, but we thought the very Rock we were under would have rent in pieces about our Ears, yet they that were half way the Cave, or at the Mouth of it, heard nothing of any noise at all; this we found experimentally true, for one of the Persons that accompanied us in our Journey, staying a little distance in the Cave, being unwilling to venter any farther, assured us when we came back, that he had not heard any noise at all; we ventured a little farther, and at the end of the Celler, when we had gone down some few Steps, we found a great Rivolet several Yards deep, but as clear as Chrystial, and pleasant to the Taste, but very cold; it gave a Period to our Journey. It runs under ground, though its Head from whence it first springs is like that of the River Nilus in Egypt, which is not yet, or at least very difficult to be discovered, conveying it self out of this Cave, it sets 30 Mills on work after it comes into the adjacent County, as we were informed. When we had got thus far, and almost a Mile under ground, as our Guides told us, we began [Page 23] to think how we should return and get out safe, being afraid to find the same difficulty and trouble we had encountered with in our Entrance; for tho' the Place was somewhat resembling an Infernal Abbyss, and our Passage into it proved so troublesome and irksome, yet we came back without any toil, or rather with great facility and pleasure, notwithstanding 'tis impossible to find out the way without a Guide, there being so many Turnings and Windings; nor could the Guides themselves, without a light, find the way out of this forlorn place, whereby they steer their Course: However, at last, we made a shift to creep up again to the top of the Rock, just as merry Lucian tells us old Menippus did out of a hole in Lebadia, after he returned from Hell, and had ended the Discourses with the Ghosts below. Thus have I given you a small Relation of this wonderful Rarerity.
GLASTENBURY lies four Miles from Wells, a Place of great Antiquity, as any whatsoever in the Kingdom; for the Original thereof is deducted from Joseph of Arimathea, who, together with Mary Magdalen, Lazarus and Martha, was sent hither by St. Philip the Apostle of the Gauls, to preach the Gospel about 63 Years after Christ, and were buried here themselves, upon which account it was, in process of time, very [Page 24] much enlarged by pious Princes, King Ina who was the first here, that caused his Subjects to pay Peter-Pence to Rome, rebuilt the Abby which was then gone much to decay; to which he added a very fine and stately Church, dedicated to Christ, S. Peter, and S. Paul; and that which is very remarkable here, is the Kitchin of the Abbots, being 20 foot high, built in the form of a Pyramid of pure Stone, and divided into four Angles or Corners; to each of which were allotted a Window and a Chimney: But all of them went to rack, and were razed to the ground, and there is nothing left now but the Ruins to proclaim its former Glory and Magnificence; and to reckon up all the Kings of the West-Saxons that were buried here would be too tedious.
The Walnut-Tree and Holy Hawthorn. But to come nearer to our own days, here was something not many years since very notable and strange: The Walnut-Tree in the holy Churchyard, that did never put out any Leaves before S. Barnabas day, and upon that very day grew rank and full of Leaves; and the Hawthorn in Wiral Park, that always on Christmas-day sprouted forth as if in May, both deserve Credit, as well as Admiration: For the truth of both these we were credibly inform'd of divers Persons Inhabitants of this Place; and that these Trees, through the [Page 25] Malice and Fury of some Person in the late Warrs, were cut down and destroy'd: But many things here are very observable, which I have not room to insert.
BATH. It lying low and all sides surrounded with Hills, the Town is well watered with Springs, though some of them are sulphureous and bad to the Tast; environ'd with a Wall, very commodious for its Market-place, and handsomly adorn'd with three Churches; one whereof is very large and spatious, built in the form of a Cathedral; the Steeple is four-square, and hath a Ring of very tunable Bells, and a Quire with very sweet Organs; and in it are erected several antient and stately Monuments of Persons of Quality, and Bishops of this See, who have been noble Benefactors to it; 'tis governed by a Mayor and Aldermen, and the Assizes are generally kept there in the Summer time: But that which is most remarkable here, and causeth a Concourse in the Summer not only of the Nobility and Gentry, but of the Commonalty too, from all parts of the Nation hither, are the Baths, which are not inferiour to any that ever Italy or France could glory in; they have without question cured many weak and feeble Limbs, and do cure divers Diseases which are incident and destructive to Humane Nature; by causing Men to sweat either more or less, proportionably [Page 26] to their Distempers. Who they were that first found them out is very uncertain, whether Bleyden alias Bladud the Son of Rudhudibras the Magician, or Julius Coesar, I shall not undertake to determine the Controversie: However they are of very great Antiquity, and 'tis many hundred years since their powerful Vertues were first discovered, though they are all different in their Nature, as well as their Operation; as the learned Dr. Stubbs by divers Experiments assures us. The Baths are in number six; the King and Queens Baths, the Cross Bath, the Hot Bath, the Leper's Bath, and the Horse: That which is the Chief is the Cross Bath, the Water whereof being more mild than the other, the Orders are very strict and regular. And Persons of the greatest Quality of the Nation chuse to bath themselves here, and to drink the Water thereof; hard by this stands the Hot Bath, not much frequented save by those who having quite lost the Use of their Limbs, come hither to seek remedy: Not far from this is that they call the Leper's Bath, which is believed to be very efficacious against that spreading Disease: And an Hospital, or Spittle, built by Reginald Bishop of Bath, for the Use and Benefit of poor, aged, decrepid People. About the middle of the Town, near to the great Church are the King and Queens Baths, the Water of the one flowing into [Page 27] the other; and the difference is, that the King's Bath is large, and the Queens lesser in circumference; and I was credibly informed, that there hath been found here an antient Statue of Hercules, amongst other great Monuments of Antiquity, holding a Serpent in his hand; which was found in the Ruins of a famous Temple, that once stood here, near this place: And it might be thought very convenient, as well as reasonable, that Hercules, who exposed himself to such difficulties and manifold dangers, and underwent such hard and unsupportable Labours, should now and then ease and refresh his weary Limbs by such Purgations as the Baths could afford him. In this, and other Baths, hang divers Crutches of lame and decrepit Persons, which they left behind them as Trophies of their Recovery, being perfectly cured of their Lameness and Infirmity, and restored again to their former Health and Strength. Last of all, that which is called the Horse Bath, is very effectual for the Cure of lame and foundred Horses, and the removal of some other Distempers. Thus have I given a short account of the Bath, &c. Many things there are more in this County very observable for all Travellers to take notice of, which I think too tedious to relate.
Bristol.
The next Place we went to in these Parts was Bristol, which is undoubtedly the Second City of England, which if we consider the Stateliness of the Buildings; or its Natural, or Artificial Fortifications; the Commodiousness of its Harbours, and its most pleasant Situation betwixt the two Rivers of Avon and Frome; its lofty Churches, and its stately Palaces; the great Concourse of Foreigners, as well as the great Number of Natives, Citizens: Upon which account, no Wonder if both the Counties of Somerset and Gloucester do contend which of them may be most glorious and happy, in its Superiority over them; and yet neither of them can attain to that Honour, it being both City and County of itself, and having particular Privileges, Immunities, and Laws of its own: 'Tis governed by a Mayor and two Sheriffs, twelve Aldermen, with other Ministers and Officers befitting its dignity; 'tis environ'd with a double Wall, and adorn'd with two navigable Rivers, Avon at Spring-Tides is 11 or 12 Fathom deep, and Frome; over which stands a Bridge beautified with curious Edifices, consisting of four large Arches: It is very convenient for the Ships and great Vessels to anchor in, and hath a Key in it very commodious for the exporting [Page 29] and importing of Goods, out or into the Merchants Houses: This returns back into the River Avon; and so both by their mutual Union enrich this City, and augment its Happiness At what time it was first built is very hard to determine, but it seems to have been of latter years, because we find it no where spoken of by Historians in the times of the Danes, when they made their Invade into this Nation: And it is supposed to take its rise in the Declination of the Saxon Empire, at the time when Harold is said to have sailed from Bristol, with a great Navy, into Wales; which was about 213 years before our Saviour's Incarnation. Robert, Bishop of Constance, made choice of this place first to begin his War in, which he designed against William Rufus; and did encompass it with the inner Wall, as some conjecture, part of which in some places is still to be seen; and from that time it hath received great Enlargment, and by degrees is risen to that we now behold it in: As its Houses are fair, and its Streets clear; so are its Gates strong and its Churches glorious, consisting of nineteen Parish-Churches, whereof that which is the Cathedral, and Mother-Church, dedicated to S. Austin, and endowed by King Henry the 8th. with Revenues for a Bishop's See; yet notwithstanding this, the Church of Ratcliff in the Suburbs of this [Page 30] City is a more noble Structure, being curiously Arched, and made a stately Fabrick all of pure Stone, without any Addition of Beams, or Rafters of Timber, no not one Stick to be found throughout the whole Building; the Steeple is four square, and of a great height, but most artificially carved with divers Sculptures, all at the cost and charges of one Mr. Cannius a Merchant of this City about 108 years since, who in the erecting this famous piece of Architecture, employ'd at his own Expence 800 Labourers and Artificers, besides Masons and Carpenters to the number 300, in all 1100, for 2 years together; until the Work was totally compleated; and in it his Monument doth stand in Marble: May his Memory be more lasting, than that Marble which is set to preserve it; and his Name more durable than any Monument, and remain to succeeding Generations.
S. Vincent's Rocks. On the Northern side of this City are several high and craggy Rocks, by which the River Avon gently glides along, till it returns back again into the Severn; one of the chief whereof is called S. Vincent's Rock, which hath great plenty of pellucid Stones, commonly called Bristol-stones; the learned Mr. Cambden hath observed, that their Pellucidness is beyond that of the Diamond we receive from the Indies; only the [Page 31] Hardness of the latter gives them the pre-eminence; and yet certainly Nature never made greater demonstrations of her Art, having made some of these Stones as smooth as the most expert Jeweller could have done, as round and sharp, as broad above and small beneath, as the greatest Artist could have effected; shaping some of them with four, some of them with six Angles apiece, like the Stones which we usually set in Rings. To make us still the more admire her Perfections, she hath not given them all one colour, but some of them are like Chrystal, clear; and some of a more ruddy colour, and sanguine complexion, according to the nature of the Soil; she causeth her Productions not to be unlike their great Parent.
The Hot Well. There is one thing still here very remarkable, and that is the Hot Well, which is just at the bottom of this Rock, and at the very brink of the River Avon; yet it still retains its natural Head, and by its constant Ebullitions purgeth away all the Scum and saltish froth it might have contracted by the Sea; the Water is exceeding wholesome, and very good to purge away ill Humors, and purifie the Blood; and I was there credibly informed that it hath wrought great Cures, and is much frequented and resorted to by several sorts of People.
Devonshire.
The next County we went to in these Parts, was Devonshire, where we made but little Stay: The Air is sharp and wholesome, the Soil hilly and woody; and they use here, as they do likewise in Cornwall, Sea-Sand to mend and inrich their Land. The chief Commodities of this County are, Wooll, Kerseys, Sea-Fish, and Sea-Fowl; and the West of it is well stored with Tin Mines, and Loadstones have been found upon Dartmore Rocks of good value and vertue, so at other places in this County are found Mines of Lead, and some Veins of Silver.
Upon Exmore Forest are such huge Stones, and placed confusedly as they are upon Salisbury Plain, and one of them hath Danish Letters upon it directing Passengers that way. At Hubblestow in this County was a Battle fought by the Danes, where their Banner called Reafan, in which they reposed all their confidence, of Victory and Success, was notwithstanding taken, and Hubba their General slain.
The People of this County are strong; and well made, and as they have a peculiar sort of quaking Pudding, which they call Whitepots, so the Women have a peculiar kind of Garment, which they wear upon their Shoulders, called Whittles; they are of divers Colours made like Mantles, with Fringes about the [Page 33] Edges, without which the common sort of People never ride to Market, nor appear in publick.
In divers places of this County the ways are so rocky and narrow, that it is not possible for Waggons to pass, so that the Country People are forced in Harvest time to carry home their Corn upon Horses in certain Crooks made for that purpose, which creates no small Toil and Labour to them.
EXETER is the principal City in this Province, situated upon the Eastward by the Banks of the River Ex, or Ise, upon a little Hill, gently arising with an easie Ascent to a pretty height, the Pendant whereof lies East and West, environed about with Ditches and very strong Walls, having many Turrets orderly interposed, and six Gates which gives entrance into the City, and contains about a Mile and half in circumference; the Suburbs branch forth a great way on each side; the Streets are broad, kept clean and well paved; the Houses are as gay within as trim without; there are Seventeen Parish-Churches, and in the very highest part of the City near the East Gate is a Castle, formerly the Seat of the West Saxon Kings, and afterwards the Earls of Cornwal, which Baldwin de Redures the Governor holding out against King Stephen, was by scarcity of Provisions forced to Surrender, and after the surrendry, [Page 34] he, with his whole Family was banished that Kingdom. Just without the East Gate are two pleasant Walks call Southney and Northney, beset on both sides with Rowes of high Trees, which being mounted up aloft afford a curious Prospect to Topesham, the place where all the Ships and Vessels of the Citizens lie at Anchor, from whence (since the River was stopt up by certain Dams or Wears that Edward Courtney, Earl of Devonshire, for some Distaste that he had took from the City, caused here to be made) all their Goods and Commodities are brought home by Land. In the same quarter of the City stands the Cathedral founded by King Athelstan in honour to St. Peter, and Edward the Confessor made it the Bishop's See of Cornwall and Kirton, and Constituted the first Bishop thereof, who Successors augmented it greatly both in Edifices and Revenues, and William, the Ninth Bishop after him, when the Monks were displanted brought in a Dean and Four and Twenty Prebendaries, to which has been added, in our times, four Arch-Deacons. In the Church are Six private Chappels, and a Library very handsomly built and finished by a Physician of this City; the Quire is curiously beautified and adorned, especially with Organs, whose Pipes, though they are of a larger size than any which ever we beheld in any Cathedral besides, yet the Musick is extreamly [Page 35] pleasing and melodious to the Ear. All which Additions hath been erected since the Return of K. Charles II.
On the West side of this City runs the River, over which is built a strong Stone-bridge with four Arches, and about the middle of the City is the Town-Hall, where the Assizes and Sessions are held for the City, it being both City and County of it self. 'Tis governed by a Mayor, two Sheriffs, four and twenty Aldermen, a Recorder and Town-Clerk, with other Officers befitting the Grandeur of so honourable a Place.
Plimouth.
So called from the River Plime which runs along by it, where is one of the largest and most securest Haven in England, for before the very Mouth of it lies St. Nicholas Island, strongly fortified both by Art and Nature, and in the Haven are Fortifications laid on both sides for the safe Riding of Ships, and the annoyance to Enemies. One the one side is Mount Batton, in which is a strong Garrison, having twelve Guns mounted upon its Platforms, and on the other side the Cittadel which may, for Strength, compare with most Places in the Nation, commanding both the Sea and Town at Pleasure; without the Walls of the Cittadel runs a Trench, out of which was digged a certain kind of Marble with [Page 36] which they were built, being Eleven Foot thick at the bottom, and Seven at the top, and three quarters of a Mile in compass; upon the Walls are placed divers Watch-Towers, and each of them are adorned with a round Ball upon the top, so curiously gilded and painted with the King's Arms, that they make a very great glistering shew at a distance; and round about are placed between two and three hundred Pieces of Ordnance. There are two Gates, and as many Draw-Bridges which gives entrance into the Castle, and upon the Front are admirably carved the Arms of his Majesty, by which is placed his Royal Statue, with the Arms of the Earl of Bath who is Governor hereof; within the Walls is the Governor's house, and divers Appartments for Soldiers, a Magazine for Ammunition, and a Store-house for Provisions: For the Strength and Conveniencies of this Fortress, which is almost impregnable, the Town is much obliged to the excellent Ingenuity of Monsieur Bernard de Gum, his Majesty's Engineer.
The Commodiousness of the Harbour oftentimes causeth a Fleet of Ships to ride here; 'tis now so replenished with Marriners, frequented by Merchants, enriched by Traffick, that it seems to outvey some great Cities of this Kingdom. It is Governed by a Mayor, Aldermen and Common-Councel, [Page 37] who have a stately Guild-hall for their more solemn Conventions, and is adorned with two handsome Churches.
Cornwall.
This place is hilly; one cause of a very temperate heat of the Summer, and the lateness of Harvest, as its Situation is the cause of the gentleness of the Winter. Its Hills are parted with short and narrow Valleys, the Earth is but shallow, underneath is Rocks and Shelves, so that it is hard to be Tilled, and apt to be parched by a dry Summer. The middle of the Shire lies open, the Earth being of a blackish colour, and bears Heath and Spirry-grass; there is but little Meadow-ground, but store of Pasture for Cattle and Sheep, and plenty of Corn-ground.
They have a Stone called here a Moor-stone, found upon Moores and waste Ground, which serves them instead of Free-stone for Windows, Doors and Chimnies, it is white with certain glimmering Sparkles; they have likewise a Stone digged out of the Sea-cliffs of the colour of a grey Marble, and another as black as Jet, and out of the Inland Queries they dig Free-stone; nor must we omit what is here observed of some Stones, That the Sea works the Pebbles upon the shoar, by the frequent rolling of the Waves, into a kind of roundness.
[Page 38] They have a Slate of three sorts, Blew, Sage-leaf coloured and Grey, which last is the worst, and all these Slates are commonly found under another kind of Slate that they Wall with when the depth hath brought the Workmen to the Water. They also make Lime of a kind of Marble-stone by burning it. There are Copper Mines in sundry places of this County, and the Ore is sometimes shipped off to be refined in Wales: and tho' Cicero will have none in Brittain, yet Silver hath been found in this County in the time of Edward the First and Third, who reaped good profit by it: Nay Tinners do find little quantities of Gold, and sometimes Silver amongst the Tin Ore▪ as I was informed; but for the generality the Mettal that the Earth abounds with in this County is Tin.
Richard, Earl of Cornwall, Brother to King Henry the Third, was the first that began to make Ordinances for these Tin works, and afterwards Edmund his Son granted a Charter and certain Liberties, and prescribed withal certain Laws concerning the same, which he ratified or strengthened under his Seal, and imposed a Rent, or Tribute upon Tin to be paid unto the Earls; these Liberties, Privileges and Laws King Edward the Third afterwards confirm'd and augmented.
In some places on the Sea Coasts there are Pearls found that breed in big Oisters and [Page 39] Musles, yet though they are great they are not good; here are also Aget and white Coral, as they say, &c. In the West Parts of Cornwall there are Bents growing on Sandy Fields, which are knit from over the head in narrow breadths, after a strange fashion, of which they make Mats: Many other things here are very observable in this County, but I shall forbear mentioning any more, because it will seem tedious.
Dorsetshire.
'Tis a County of very fertil Soil, well shaded with Woods, enriched with Pasture, and covered with great Flocks of Sheep.
PORTLAND, although some would have deriv'd its Name for its lying over against the Port of Weymouth, yet it seems rather to have receiv'd it from one Port, a Noble Saxon, who about the Year 703, grievously infested and annoyed these Coasts. This same Portland was very much exposed to the Danish outrage, but after their Wars were over, it fell into the Possession of the Church of Winchester, when Emma, Mother to Edward the Confessor, being Accused by her Son with too great familiarity with Aldwin, Bishop of Winchester, and having cleared herself of that unjust Imputation, by suffering (which in those Days was a usual Trial of Chastity) in walking [Page 40] bear-foot upon Nine Culters of red hot Iron, which she did to a Miracle, without any harm or prejudice to her self; she for a Memorial hereof, bestowed Nine Lordships upon the See of Winchester, to which her Son added this Island, with many other Revenues, to expiate the Crime of this defamitory Suspicion, and unjust Accusation of his Mother's Honesty. The Island is about seven Miles in compass, rising up about the sides with high Rocks, but lying low and flat in the midst, inhabited scatteringly here and there, plentiful enough of Corn, and very good to feed Sheep, but great scarcity of Wood. The ancientest of their Inhabitants do find amongst the Weeds of the Sea a thing growing without Leaves like Coral, which when it is cut waxeth hard and black, but 'tis very brittle, and if it fall it soon breaketh; it grows amongst that Sea-Weed called Alga; here is likewise divers Querries of excellent Stone, which is conveyed into divers Parts of this Nation, and especially to London for the rebuilding of Churches; on the East side there is only one Church, and some few Houses standing close thereto; and on the North side is a Castle built by King Henry the Eighth, which being well Fortified, commands the Entrance into the Haven of Weymouth. From hence we went to Dorchester.
[Page 41] DORCHESTER is about 7 Miles from the Sea, and is the Head Town of the whole Shire, watered by a small River, but neither very large nor beautiful, being much decayed, and long since dispoiled of its Walls by the Danes, who raised, as it thought, certain Trenches, whereof one is called Maumbury being an Acre inditched, another Poundbury somewhat greater, and the third a Mile off as a Camp with fine Trenches containing near ten Acres called Maiden-Castle, which, in all probability, was a Roman Station; but that which argues its Antiquity is the Coin of the Romans both Copper and Silver found there, and especially at Fordington, hard by which the common People call King Dorne's Pence, whom by some Allusion to the Name they think him to be the Founder of the Town. It had anciently a Castle in that place, where the Grey-Friars built their Convent out of the Ruins thereof. It has three Parish Churches, and several Alms-houses for the support and maintenance of poor impotent People, and it was formerly a noted Place for the Manufacture of Cloth, and is now for Sheep, of which there are huge Numbers to the great benefit and enriching of the County. The next Shire we design'd to pursue our Progress in was Hampshire, of which it follows.
Hampshire.
We went out of Dorsetshire through some part of Wiltshire, which I have already mentioned, and so came into the Confines of Hampshire, and past through part of New Forrest, where along the East is the Banks of the River Avon. William the Conqueror demolished all the Towns, Villages, both Houses and Churches far and near, and likewise rejected the Inhabitants; after having done so, he made all the ground within the compass of 20 Miles into a Forrest, or Harbour for Wild Beasts, and so it was called New Forrest; and this he did, either that the Normans might arrive more securely in this place (Normandy lying just over against it) in case new Broils should arise after his Conquests, or for the Pleasure he took in Hunting, or else to encrease his Treasure; for being better affected, and more favourable to Beasts than Men, he imposed very heavy Fines and Penalties, yea, and most grievous Punishments upon all such Persons as did meddle with the Game; but it seems the Children suffered for the Cruelty of their Father, for Richard, his second Son, and William Rufus, who Succeeded him, both perished in this Forrest, the one with a Blast of pestilent Air, the other with an Arrow shot by chance by Sir Walter Tirrel: Henry likewise [Page 43] his Grandchild by his eldest Son Robert, whilst he was here in the hot pursute after his Game, was caught up by a Bough, where in a very short time he underwent the miserable Fate of poor Absolom. The first Town of Note we came to in this County was Southampton, which is situated betwixt two Rivers, the one running forth at the West side called Test, and the other on the East. The Town is fair and hath stately Buildings, with two commodious Keys which do highly adorn it, and the great concourse of Merchants which Trade to Foreign Parts do mightily enrich it. There are five Parish-Churches, with one for the French, likewise it hath a strong Wall and seven Gates, with a Castle upon a Mount cast up to a great height built by Richard the Second, and it was made a Corporation by Henry the Sixth, who Constituted it both Town and County, which doth abundantly dignifie it. It hath three Markets a week, and that for Fish is five Days in a Week; 'tis likewise of great Note for building of Merchant's Ships. After some small stay here we went to Winchester, of which take this following Account.
Winchester.
I find it to have been a Place of great Antiquity, and that it was in great Request amongst the Romans. In this City was Constance, [Page 44] who, was become a Monk, saluted Caesar by the Order of his Father Constantine, though afterwards he paid dearly for his Honour by the loss of his Life. This was the chief Seat in which the Saxons placed themselves, and made it famous by their erecting Magnificent Temples; in the Time of the Normans too it flourished exceedingly, until it was almost once or twice quite destroyed by the Sword, but now again 'tis very fair and populous, large and stately, and is computed to be within the Walls above a Mile in length; it hath six Gates which give entrance into the City, though all of them have been very much defaced in our Civil Wars, as likewise the Castle which formerly hath been very formidable for its Strength and Impregnableness. This is that Castle that Maud the Empress having took, held it out some considerable time against King Stephen, and being at last strictly besieged by the Bishop of Winchester then in being, who was Brother to the King, fearing to be took Prisoner and delivered up into her Enemies hands, she secured her self by this cunning Way; she commanded it should be given out for a most certain truth that she was Dead, and was carried out upon a Beir as if she had been so indeed, and by this means she deceived her Enemies, and secured her own Person. Upon the Wall hereof [Page 45] hangs the Round Table so much talked of, and called by the Name of King Arthur's Round Table, whether this can gain to it self so great Antiquity as is attributed to it, I shall not undertake to determine, yet certain it is, that those kind of Tables are of a very long standing; for formerly when there hath been great Entertainments amongst the valiant Champions of this Nation, it was usual for all such to sit round them, lest any Difference should arise amongst the Noblemen about Superiority of Place. About the middle of the City stands the Cathedral, built by Kenelwalchius, King of the West Saxons, who Constituted Ina the first Bishop there, and it was always had in great Veneration by the Saxons, because divers of their Kings was Enterred in it, and was called by them The Old Monastery; there is a Dean and 12 Prenbendaries belonging to it; the Church is curiously adorned with Monuments of ancient Hero's and Bishops of that See, William Wainfleet Founder of Magdelen College in Oxford lies here Entombed with his Hart in his Hand, and Cardinal Beaufort, and Bishop Gardner, that bloody Scourge to the poor Protestants in Queen Mary's days, who did so insatiably thirst for the Blood of Queen Elizabeth, but was always crossed in his most wicked Inclinations; there lies also the Lord Weston, Earl of Portland, whose Monument is [Page 46] of Brass, and by him his Father who lies in Marble; here is likewise preserved the Chair of State in which Queen Mary was Married to King Philip; the Countess of Exeter is also Enterr'd here; also the Chappel of Bishop Fox is worth ones observation which he built for his own use, together with his Study and Press for his Books all in one place. In the Quire under a plain flat Marble Stone lies the Body of William Rufus, King of England, who received his Mortal Wound as he was Hunting in the New Forrest by Sir Walter Tyrrel; Sir Walter shooting at a Deer unawares hit him on the Brest on which he died immediately, and was brought to Winchester and buried in this place, though afterwards his Bones were Translated into a Coffer. At the West end of the Quire stands in Brass two Statues very curiously wrought, the one of King James the First, and the other of King Charles the First of ever blessed Memory; there is another thing also very remarkable in the Cathedral, and that is the rich and famous Monument of William of Wickham, who was Constituted Bishop of Winchester in the Reign of Edward the Third: But to return again into our Discourse relating to the City. We find it not only to have attained a great Eminency for its Religious Houses, for its pleasant Gardens, for its Silver-stream'd Brooks and flowry Meadows, for its publick [Page 47] and private Edifices, for its great Hall wherein the Assizes are usually held for the County of Southampton, not to be parallel'd for Length and Breadth by any throughout this Nation, except Westminster, for the Antiquity of its Corporation, with the true and exact Rules of Equity and Justice prescribed by its Governors and Magistrates; 'tis likewise reported to have been very famous and renowned by its Sufferings and Ruins of its Palaces, and in the time of Adelstane, King of the West Saxons, that invinceable Hero, Guy Earl of Warwick, in a single Combat slew Colbrand the Danish Giant in Hide-Mead near to this City. After some time spent here, we travelled to Portsmouth, of which I come next to discourse of.
PORTSMOUTH is about 16 Miles distant from Winchester, and situated in a little Island called Portsey. 'Tis a place of great Strength, and of no less importance by reason of the Dock, where many of the King's greatest Men of War are built, those impregnable Wooden-Walls of our Brittish Island. 'Tis fortified with a Wall made of Timber, and the same well covered over with thick Banks of Earth; 'tis likewise environed with a double Trench, over which are placed two Drawbridges, from which about a Mile distance is another, and at all of them stands Centuries of Soldiers who are kept in Garrison, [Page 48] with a little Fortress adjoining to it which leads up the Continent; to the Seaward is a Castle and Block-houses, which being first begun by King Edward the Fourth, King Henry the Seventh, as it is reported, did afterwards compleat; which Fortifications have of late Years received exceeding great Augmentations by the succeeding Monarchs, especially in the late King Jame's Reign. Here is only one Church, and an Hospital called God's House, built by Peter Roch, Bishop of Winchester; hereabouts are divers Saltpanhouses, which make exceeding white Salt. Much more might have been wrote concerning this County, but this may suffice for these two Reasons; the first is, The smallness of the Volume will not allow it, and the second is, That what has been related is the notablest, and most requisite to be mention'd.
Sussex.
The next place of Note we went to was Chichester in Sussex. 'Tis a good large City well Wall'd, re-built by the second Saxon King of this Province; it was before the Conquest of a small Repute, Bishop Raulf built a Cathedral here, which before he had fully finished was consumed by Fire, yet by his Endeavours, and the bounteous Liberality of King Henry the First, it was raised up again, and is now a Bishop's See. The Church [Page 49] is not very large, but was formerly a curious beautiful Fabrick, having a Spire-steeple of Stone of a very great height, and an high Tower standing near the West Door, which was built by King Rinon, as they say. In the South Cross-Isle of the Church was formerly on the one side artificially pourtrayed and painted the History of the Churches Foundation, with the Images of the Kings of England on the other; there was likewise the Images of the Bishops, at the charge of Bishop Sherborne, who greatly Adorned and Illustrated this sacred Structure. The City is walled about in a circular round Form, the Lavant, a pretty River, running hard by it on the South and West sides. It hath four Gates opening to the four Quarters of the World, from whence the Streets leads directly, and cross themselves in the midst where the Market is kept, and where Bishop Read Erected a fair stone Market-house, supported with Pillars round about.
We went from hence to Amberly Castle, which is about 12 Miles from Chichester higher into the County; it was built by William Read, Bishop of Chichester, in the Reign of Edward the Third for the use of his Successors, and Leased out now to the worthy Family of the Butlers, who are the present Inhabitants. We stayed here the space of a Week, where we were generously Entertained [Page 50] with great courtesie and civility. We went from hence to Arundel, and from thence to Lewes, of which take this brief Account.
ARUNDEL is about four Miles from Amberly, situated upon the Brow of an Hill, but finding nothing to detain us here but the Ruins of an old Castle, which for many Generations hath successively appertained to the Earls of Arundel, we travell'd on to
LEWES, which was the next Town we came to. 'Tis situated upon a Rising almost on every side, and hath been Wall'd, but now there is no great sign of the Walls; there is several Streets near it as Suburbs, and in the times of the Saxons when King Athelston made a Law for the coining of Money, he appointed two Coiners in this place. There are five Churches belonging to it, and this place was very memorable for that Mortal and bloody Battel between King Henry the Third and the Barons, in which prosperous beginning of the Fight on the King's side, proved the overthrow of his whole Army, for whilst Prince Edward his Son, breaking by force through certain of the Baron's Troops, carelesly pursued the Enemy overfar, as making sure account of the Victory; the Barons having reinforced themselves, and giving a fresh Charge, so discomforted and put to flight the King's Forces, that they constrained the King to accept of unequal [Page 51] Conditions of Peace, and to deliver his Son and others into their hands. From hence we went to Pevensey, or Pemsey, of which it follows.
PEVENSEY, or PEMSEY. There is a very low Level which, some are of Opinion, hath been over-flowed by the Sea, and the Town of Pevensey is the noted place for the first Landing of William the Conqueror, and formerly there was a Haven and Castle. Hastings is not far from hence, where was fought that bloody Battel betwixt King Harold and the Norman Duke, which proved so fatal to the English, and successful to the Normans, which Ground where the Fight was hath been thought ever since to have worn the Conqueror's Livery, because always after Rain it looks of a reddish colour. I could haved cited other Remarks in this County, but what is related is most material.
Kent.
'Tis a County divided into three several Portions, the first of which is called Health without Wealth, the second is Health and Wealth, and the third Wealth without Health, to all which Nature notwithstanding hath liberally apportioned so many Blessings, that she compensates the Defects of one thing by the Collation of another, not suffering any peculiar Place to monopolize all her Favours at [Page 52] once; but thus, if the Weald be very eminent for Wooll, the same of East Kent shall be as great for Corn, and Tenham, Goddington and Otham shall be no less cried up for Orchards, and Sheppey for the best Wheat, and Thanet shall bring forth as good Crops of Barley; but if Dover and Cranbrooke hath the Name for Beer, Tunbridge shall for Water, and if either the fertility of the Soil, or safe Roads or sure Harbours for Ships, or the broad Streams of great Navigable Rivers, or the vicinity of a vast and large City can be any ways to advance it Prosperity, it must needs be one, if not the most flourishing County in the Kingdom of England: As touching the Customes and Privileges of Kent, they have been already so fully discoursed of by Mr. Lambert in his Kentish Perambulation, and what was by him omitted, have been supplied by the ingenious Pen of Mr. Philipot, so that I shall wave them, and only give a very small account of it, although I have been in most Towns and Parishes in this County. Canterbury, because the Antiquity of this City, with all its Liberties and Privileges, the Beauty and number of all its Churches and Religious Houses before their Dissolution, the Magnificence of its Cathedral, with all its renowned Tombs and Monuments are very exquisitely Surveyed and Discribed by other Pens, I shall not go about to pourtray that in any [Page 53] contracted Landskip, which hath been before represented in so large a Scheme, but referr all such as desire a particular Account of this City, to those Writters who have pencelled out every Part and Limb thereof with great Exactness and Accuracy.
Rochester.
A City which, in ancient Times, was eminent for its Strength and Granduer, and had not those violent Impressions which the rough hands of War formerly defaced and deminish'd its Bulk, and bereaved it of its Beauty, it might have been registered at this day in the Inventory of the principal Cities of this Nation. In the Year 1225, by the indulgent Bounty of King Henry the Third, it was invested with a Wall, and that this Fortification might be of more concernment, it was secured or fenced with a Ditch. It was governed by a Port Reeve, until King Edward the Fourth in the Second Year of his Reign raised it to a higher Dignit [...], and decreed, by his Royal Grant, that it should henceforth be under the Jurisdiction of a Mayor and Twelve Aldermen, and to this Monarch doth the City owe much of its present Felicity; indeed formerly many and dismal Calamities did attend it, and that so frequently, that the fury of the Elements seemed to enter into a Corrivalship, or Competition [Page 54] with the fury of the Enemies for its ruin, and the Fire and Sword seem'd to be join'd Confederates to destroy it. Nevertheless it maugres all these Casualties by the Favour of the Princes, and their Royal Munificence, it still recruits its Losses, and survives in Splender. The goodly Skeleton of the Castle, which yet courts the eyes of the Beholders to an admiration of its former Strength, and built many hundred Years since. The Cathedral, with the Bishoprick of Rochester united to it, were formerly Established by that pious Monarch Ethelbert, King of Kent, and the first Bishop to whom was entrusted the Pastoral Staff or Crosier, was Bishop Augustine, the Apostle to the Saxons. Here is likewise a very fine stone Bridge built by Sir Robert Knowles over the River Medway, which is fixed and built upon one and twenty Arches, and coped about with Iron-spikes by Archbishop Warham, and leads into Stroud.
And because (according to the Orator) every one is obliged to be serviceable to his Country proportionable to his Abilities, and every one hath an inrate Propensity to love the Native Soil which first gave him a Being, I cannot but in Duty pay some Acknowledgments of the Benefits I have received herein, both for my Nativity, and first Education, and indeed I may justly say without any partially, [Page 55] That it is a Province not much inferior to any in England, being divided into three several Parts, of which I have made some mention before. It is in all parts so sufficiently fruitful of all things necessary for the use of Man, and if we will take the pains to course over the Vallies, we shall find the Earth groaning under the burdens of bountiful Ceres, and the Fields and Meadows in contest which should shine most gay and glorious; if we range the Woods and Hills, we shall hear such charming Melodies by the mutual reciprecation of Birds and Trees, that we should fancy all had got the knack of Speaking and Pratling, Groves being now become visible to us; if we be so curious as to dig into the Entrails of the Earth, and take a view of the recondite Treasures, we shall find plenty of Iron-Ore in the South parts of this County, and great Queries of Stone in several places; also towards the North side they dig out of the Earth plenty of excellent fat Chalk, which they use to lay upon their Land for the enriching of it, and causeth it to bring forth great Crops of Corn: If we be taken with the harmonious Murmurs of Brooks and gentle Rivers there are several, the Banks of the Noble River of Thames on the North side, and the River Medway which comes out of Surrey glides along for many Miles together on the South side [Page 56] of this County, and takes its course through almost the middle of the County, and doth not run swift in many places, but glides softly, admiring, as it were, the pleasantness of its Soil; there is also at Newel in the Parish of Orpington the finest Spings undoubtedly in the Kingdom, both for the clearness of its Water, and the rising up of it in such abundance, that within two Furlongs of the Head it drives a Mill, and afterwards is called by the Name of Cray River. Most of the Rivers in this County do afford several sorts of Fish to gratifie the Pallate, and all the Towns and Villages are well inhabited, having a great many very fine Seats of Noblemen and Gentlemen, in which respect 'tis honourable; the Churches fair and uniform, and so 'tis glorious; the Air in many parts is clear, which renders it wholsome.
One word or two I must I say in relation to Maidstone. 'Tis the principal Town in the County; as in respect of its having the Assizes and Sessions kept in it, and its being situated near the middle of the County upon the River Medway, which renders it so pleasant and delightful, that even that alone might be sufficient to set forth all the other Parts of it. Leaving this place, we soon after arrived in London, where we only tarried a reasonable space of time to give our Selves and Horses some Rest and Refreshment, as [Page 57] likewise to visit our Friends and Acquaintances, and then proceeded on, designing to finish our intended purposes, and so (with God's Assistance) took Horse and went to
Essex.
RUMFORD is about 10 Miles from London, in the County of Essex. It is well stored with Inns, and hath a great Market for Cattel; the whole County is populous, having in it divers fine Seats of Persons of Quality. We tarried here not long but Travell'd on to Burntwood, and so to Ingerstone, both which Places have no great Remarks worth our tarrying, we rid on to Chelmsford, which place is situated in the heart of the County between two Rivers which meet here. It hath a great Market for Corn, and the Assizes are generally held here for the County; here are likewise several Persons of Quality's Seats in and about the adjacent Places, which do mightily enrich it. We stayed here but one Night, and the next Place of Note we came to in this County was Colchester, of which it follows.
COLCHESTER is pleasantly seated upon the brow of an Hill, and doth extend it self in length East and West, and is very numerous for Inhabitants whereby its Buildings are enlarged, and its Churches encreased to the number of fifteen; but in the late unhappy [Page 58] Civil Wars it had its share of Calamities, for being close Besieged by their Enemies, the Royalists who were within behaved themselves so bravely, that they could neither take it by Violence, nor enforce it to a Surrendry, until at last having blocked up all places whereby the least Provisions might be conveyed to them, so that they were reduced to that Want and Exigency, Hunger exercising its Tyranny within the Walls with no less Vigour than the Enemy did without, that they were compelled by one Enemy to surrender to the other, by trusting to the a merciless Sword, rather than to die thro' griping Hunger: So that the Rebels having got possession of the Town, they did not only use their utmost Cruelty upon the weaker Sort, who could make no resistance, but even in cold-Blood did they barbarously murther those very Persons, who, had they been at the Head of an Army would have made the stoutest Champion of their Party to give way to them. Sir Charles Lucas and Sir George Lisle, Persons of as great Integrity and undaunted Courage as any whatsoever, were cowardly and cruelly Shot to death by the Sanguinary of the insolent Soldiers in the Castle Yard, on which very Spot of ground where they fell down dead hath never since sprouted up any Grass, as there were wont, the Ground it self from that time being clad in mourning, [Page 59] Weeds and Grass dreading such execrable Murthers, retires and hides its head within the Bowels of the Earth, and this Plat of ground is a Monument to succeeding Generations, yet doth a Vault that belonged to the Family of Sir Charles Lucus secure both his own and his Fellow-sufferer's Bodies from any farther Attempts of the Sons of Violence, and being wrapped in Lead they were laid in that Church which was next to his own House, which formerly was a fair and sumptuous Structure, but ruinated by his Enemies who hated the House for the Master's sake. The Castle which did stand about the midst of the Town, is likewise now demolished and gone to decay; and though the Inhabitants shewed us a Brazen-gate which gives entrance into a Vault fifteen Miles under the ground, as some of the Inhabitants tell Stories of it, yet I think there is no credit to be given to it. Here are other large Towns, and a considerable many of stately Buildings, but I have not room here to insert them. From hence we went to
Suffolk.
IPSWITCH is a Town very commodious for its Haven, Enriched by foreign Commerce, replenished with Inhabitants, adorned with several magnificent Churches, and being united into a Corporation is governed [Page 60] by two Bailiffs, who have all other Ministers befitting their Granduer to attend them, tho' formerly it hath sustained great Losses by the Danes; the Streets are very clean and well paved, and in the midst of the Market-place, which is surrounded with rich Shops and goodly Houses, stands a very curious square Cross which hath the Effiges of Impartiality, bearing a pair of Scales in one hand and a Sword in the other, a sit Emblem to reminde the Magistrates of the exact Measure that they must use in the distribution of Justice. The Store-houses which are kept for the King's Ships do much promote the Trade of the Town. Before the subversion of the Monasteries, it could glory in four Religious Houses, besides a magnificent College erected by Cardinal Woolsey, who received his first Breath in this place, being only a Butcher's Son of this Town.
St. EDMUNDS-BURY, or BURY, a renowned Town; a Place for situation and wholsomness of Air so excellent, that Cambden saith, Sol non vidit urbem situ elegantiorem▪ Many of the Gentry live here. There are two Churches in one Churchyard, where there are Lectures several days in the Week. Here was born Richardus de Bury, Bishop of Durham, the Governour of Edward the Third when young, and famous especially for a Work which he Entituled Philobiblos, in the [Page 61] Preface of which he confesseth, Ecstatico quodam librorum amore potenter se abreptum. He was well acquainted with Petrark the Italian, and other learned Men of that Age. Bradwardine Archbishop of Canterbury, and Richard Fitzralph, Armachanus, Walter Burleigh, Robert Halcot, and other most famous Men of that Age were his Chaplains.
We have been at most of the Towns in this County, and there is five hundred seventy and five Parishes in it, and the whole County is very fruitful. We went from hence to Scole Inn in the County of Norfolk, of which hereafter.
Norfolk.
SCOLE is a little Village very famous for an Inn and Sign-Post built by Mr. Peck, a Gentleman, which thing cost him several Hundred Pounds. The House is of Brick very neat and uniform, and hath great variety of Objects for diversion: In the Porch, at the four corners, stands two Men playing on Wind-Musick, a Tapster filling of Drink, and a Mountebank shewing of Tricks; on the two side-Posts Hercules with his Club, and Sampson with his Jaw-bone; on the Front is the Figure of the Whale vomiting up Jonah out of his Mouth, and on the East side of the House the Statue of Peace and Hope with an Anchor and an Olive branch; but that which [Page 62] is most admirable, is the contrivance of the Sign-post which seems to contain great varieties; on the top of all is an Astronomer looking thro' a Quadrant, riding upon an Anchor with the four Cardinal-Vertues on each side of him, Fortitude with her broken Pillar, Temperance with her Cup pouring out Wine, Prudence with a Snake in her right hand, and a Horn of Plenty in her left, and Justice with a pair of Scales and a Sword; along the Sign-post stands several Images very curiously carved and painted, the first represents a Huntsman equipped and accoutred with his Horn and his green Jacket, just as if he were then very hot upon the Chase, and next to him Acteon transformed into a Stag, with his Pack of Hounds worrying and devouring him, the next is Diana with an Half-Moon upon her head, and the Planets under her feet, her Quiver in her hand, and her Horn by her side, and before her is a Greyhound, as it were, in a close pursuit after the Hare; next to this stands old Time with an Hour-glass on his head, a Sythe in his left hand, and a prodigal Youth in his right, and Death under his Feet with this Inscription, Tempus edax rerum; in the middle hangs the sign of the White Heart, ingeniously contrived into an Oval figure, with two Angels and two Lions on each corner, under one of which are placed four naked Boys treading [Page 63] of Grapes, and under the other a Mountebank shewing of Feats of Activity; on both sides are the Arms of the chief Families both in Suffolk and Norfolk, and also a Shepherd playing merrily upon his Pipes, and last of all on each side of the Post which supports the whole Fabrick, stands three-headed Cerberus the Great of the Infernal Court, and old grisle-bearded Charon with his Boat and Oars wafling a Wench over the Stigion Lake; the splendedness of this curious and costly piece of Workmanship, is worthy of any Traveller's observation. The next Town of Note we came to in this County was
YARMOUTH, which entertained us with a pleasant Prospect, the Haven being as commodious as the Town is beautiful, and is fortified both by Art and Nature, for although it be environed almost round with Water on the West side by the River Yare, from whence it borrows its Name, which hath a Drawbridge over it, and from other parts with the Ocean, unless it be Northward where there is firm Land, yet it is likewise enclosed with a very strong Wall, upon which, besides Towers, is cast up a Mount towards the East, and there are likewise planted several pieces of Ordnance to defend the Town and command the Seas; there is but one Church, but that is fair and lofty, adorned with a high Spire-steeple, built at first by [Page 64] Herbert, Bishop of Norwich; there are also divers clean and spacious Streets, on each side of which are several Rows of very uniform Buildings, inhabited by wealthy and gentle Persons. This Town is of no long date or standing, as appears by Antiquaries, for it received its beginning from the Ruins of old Garianum which was near this place, after which, in a short time, as we were informed, built this new Town which grew potent and populous, and they strengthened it with a Wall, and grew very numerous in Inhabitants, and there happened a fearful and sudden Pestilence, which in the space of a Year brought above seven Thousand Men and Women to their Graves, all which was faithfully recorded in an ancient Table, which formerly used to hang up in their Church, but since restored to its primitive Lustre, and their Wealth hath increased, and 'tis now a place of great Merchandize and Traffick, but especially renowned for its Fishery of Herrings of which, at the Season, here is very great plenty, and by their care and industry are salted and dried in particular Houses designed and appointed for that very purpose, and do supply our own and foreign Nations too. The next place of Note we went to was
[Page 65] NORWICH is one of the most renowned Cities in our Brittish Island, for whether we consider the Wealth of the Citizens, the Number of Inhabitants, the great Conference of Foreigners, the stately Structures, and beautiful Churches, the obliging Carriage of the Gentry, and the Industry of the Commons, do all concur to illustrate and dignifie it. 'Tis situated on the brow of a Hill, and environed with a Wall in which are placed divers Turrets, and twelve Gates to give entrance into the City, unless it be on the East side, where the River Yare after it hath, with many windings, watered the most part of the City, having four Draw-bridges for People to pass over, and is a farther defence by reason of its deep Channel, and high Banks; 'tis reported to be a Mile and a half in length, and half as much in breadth. It hath had great Misfortunes, and suffered very much by the Danes when they took their range in these parts, and after William the Conqueror had settled the Brittish Crown upon his head, it suffered much more, which is too tedious to relate, but in succeeding Ages it began to recruit its Strength, and hath flourished exceedingly. King Henry the First permitted the Citizens to Wall their City, and King Richard the Second gave them a Grant for the Transportation of Worsted, and to advance their Trade which was extreamly [Page 66] eclipsed. King Henry the Fourth renewed their Charter, and conferred on them the Honour to chuse every Year a Mayor for their Magistrate, whereas by a former Order from King Stephen they were only governed by Coroners and Baliffs. It containeth thirty two Parishes, forty two Chappels and Churches, of which the Cathedral is the fairest and chiefest, the first Stone of which was laid by Bishop Herbert, in the Reign of King William Rufus, who Translated the Episcopal See from Thetford to this place, and procured a Grant to have it confirmed the Mother-Church of Norfolk and Suffolk, endowing it with great Revenues, and it is a very stately and magnificent Structure, but most famous for its Roof which runs aloft over the very body of it, on which is drawn to the life the whole History of the Bible in divers little Images, curiously carved and adorned, from the Creation of the World, to the Ascention of our blessed Saviour, or the Descent of the Holy Ghost, with the perfect resemblance of our Lord's Crucifiction and Resurrection, and divers other things. The Market, Cross and Cloister of the Cathedral are the fairest in England. There is a great House that was the Duke of Norfolk's, now the Earl of Arundel's, where there are very fine Granaries, and the best Bowling-Alley in the Kingdom. There is also an Hospital, [Page 67] where an hundred Men and Women are maintained. The Arms of the City are the Castle and Lion. After some time of abode in this City, we Travelled to a little Village called
TETTLESHALL, in the Parish-Church whereof is erected a stately Monument of Marble, in honour to Sir Edward Cooke, that most famous Lawyer of his time, on the top are placed his Coat of Arms, with the four Cardinal Vertues to support them at each corner, his Effigies is of Marble laid out at full length, above which this Motto is engraven'd, Prudens qui Patiens, and underneath in golden Characters this following Inscription, The Monument of Sir Edward Cooke, Knight, born at Mileham in Norfolk, Recorder of Norwich and London, Solliciter to Queen Elizabeth, and Speaker to the Parliament, afterwards Attorney General to her and King James, Chief Justice of both Benches, a Privy Councillor, as also of Council to Queen Anne, and Chief Justice in Eire of all her Forrests, Chases and Parks, Recorder of Coventry, and High Steward of Cambridge, of which he was a Member in Trinity College. He died in the Eighty third Year of his Age, his last Words being these, Thy Kingdom come, thy Will be done. The next place of Note we came to in this County was Lynne Regis, of which it follows.
[Page 68] LYNNE, this Town, though its standing be but of latter Years, as receiving its Original from old Lynne, which is seated in the Marsh-Land, and is opposite against it, yet it is grown of far greater request, for the commodiousness of its Haven, and safe Harbour causeth a great resort of Mariners to frequent it, and the Vessels which come loaded with Coals from New-Castle, do here, for the most part, lighten their Burdens, and is conveyed into the adjacent parts in the Counties. The Town is environed with a strong Wall, the Streets are well paved and kept very clean; it is, for the most part thereof, divided by two small Rivers that have fifteen Bridges, or thereabout, over them; it is called Old Linne, and Linnum Regis, that is, King's Linne; there are five Churches to adorn it, the chief of which is a curious Fabrick dedicated to St. Margaret, upon the top of which stands a large and stately Lanthorn very admirable for its rare Workmanship. The Town is governed by a Mayor and Aldermen, which have received great Kindnesses from their Sovereigns, and especially from K. John, who, for the good Service they had done him in defence of his Quarrel, not only presented them with his own Sword from his side, (which is continually carried before the Mayor, when ever he pleaseth to appear in publick) but likewise gave them a great Silver [Page 69] Cup gilt for the use of the Town, which because they shew it most to Strangers and Foreigners who are of any Note or Repute, they generally have it filled with Wine to drink his Majesty's and Mr. Mayor's healths, for which there is a particular Allowance proportioned by the Town: Most of their little Churches over the County are Thatch'd. Here are many other things very observable which I have not room to set down. We went from hence to Cambridge, of which it follows.
Cambridgeshire
Is an extream, pleasant, open County, and a place of such Variety and Plenty throughout, that fruitful Ceres with a smiling countenance invites the industrious Peasant to behold, with joy, the Fruits of his Labour, whilst she crowns his Industry with a plentiful Harvest, and this County doth in divers places make some annual Additions of another Crop, by adorning its Fields with large Productions of Saffron, thro' which great Profits continually arise unto them; here it is that the green Banks of murmuring Rivers and sunny Hills bedeckt with diversity of Plants and Simples, call forth the Students from their musing Cells, and teach them Theory, by diving into their Natures, contemplating their Signatures, and considering their Qualities [Page 70] and various Effects: In a word, here is nothing wanting for Pleasure, Profit, or Delight; and though the Northern parts of the County towards the Isle of Ely lying somewhat low is moist and fenny, yet the gentle Gales which are frequently stirring, drive away all Mists and Fogs which may seem to annoy it, and by their means makes it a fit Seat for the Muses to inhabit, and we have no reason to complain of the Soil, since our wise Ancestors thought good and convenient to plant a Colony here, and place one of the Eyes of our Nation in this Spot of ground, the famous and most glorious University of Cambridge, which we could not, in honour, pass by without a Visit.
CAMBRIDGE was formerly called Grantbridge, from a fair large Bridge made over the River Grant, which is now called Cam, from whence the Town it self receives its Name. It is increased much by the Ruins of Grancester sometime a famous City, situtuate a little above a Mile from this place, and the Castle that is beyond the River, the Ruins of which are still to be seen, was built, as ancient Records testifie, in the first Year of William the Conqueror, or in the first Year of William Rufus in the Year of our Lord 1092, A Nobleman of the Norman Blood named Picot, a Vice Comes, or Sheriff, at the [Page 71] Request of his Wife founded a Church to the honour of God, and Dedicated it to St. Giles, near unto this Castle, but afterwards in 1102, the Canons were removed from hence, and there is only one College beyond the Bridge sacred to St. Mary Magdalen; on this side of it are very spacious Streets, adorned with fifteen several magnificent Colleges and Halls, each of which are liberally endowed with large Revenues, more or less, in the practice of Religion, and the dilligent pursuit of all kind of Learning; here are fifteen Churches, besides private Chappels in every College, the chief of which is called St. Mary's Church, set a part particularly for the use of the University, and the Commencement is kept yearly the first Sunday in July, that the Name and famous Memory of our most pious Benefactors may still flourish and be renowned, for their great Munificence and most memoral Acts. The Town is a Corporation, and is governed by a Mayor and Aldermen, and the Assizes, for the most part, are kept here for the County, which is very profitable to the Town, and 'tis observable that one High Sheriff serves for both the Counties of Cambridge and Huntingdon, which borders upon it; but one thing more is very noteable about it, and that is the great Fair annually kept within a Mile of it in September, called [Page 72] by the Name of Sturbridge-Fair; from whence it received its Denomination is uncertain, but this is most sure, that of all Fairs in England, 'tis the greatest and best stored with all kind of Wares and Commodities which the Londoners take special care to import hither; when you are within the limits, you would rather be ready to imagine your self in some great Town, by the variety of Shops and multiplicity of Booths, than in a wide open Feild, those Booths are always built for the time in which it lasts, which is well nigh a Fortnight; neither are you presented only with Booths upon the Land, but Booths on the Water too, there being particular Contrivances in the Boats for Rooms and secret retirements all covered above, for the conveniency of Strangers which resort thither, and indeed here is always a great Resorting of People from most Parts of this Nation.
Near unto Cambridge on the South East side, there appears aloft certain high Hills called Gogmagog. On top of them is a very large Fort, entrenched, strengthened with a three-fold Rampire.
There are contained in the Shire, eight Market-Towns, and one hundred and sixty three Parishes.
Having paid our Devotions, and taken a Review of that which affords so great variety, we, at last took our farewel, and biding [Page 73] it a-dieu we betook our selves into its neighbouring County of
Huntingdonshire
Is joined to Bedfordshire on the South, Northamptonshire on the North and West, and Cambridgeshire on the East. 'Tis a very fruitful County both for Corn and Grass, and is watered by two pleasant Rivers Avon and Ouse. The first Village we arrived at in this County was Fenny-Stanton, but found nothing observable, we went from hence to
GODMANCHESTER, a very great Country-Town, and of as great a Name for Tillage; situate in an open Ground, of a light Mould, and bending for the Sun. There is not a Town in all England that hath more stout and lusty Husbandmen, or more Plows a going: For they make their boast, That they have in former time received the Kings of England, as they passed in their Progress this way, with Nine-score Plows, brought forth in a rustical kind of pomp for a gallant shew.
Soon after King James the First came into England, here the Bailiffs of the Town presented him with seventy Teem of Horses, all traced to fair new Plows, in shew of their Husbandry, of which when his Majesty demanded the Reason, he was answered, That it was their ancient Custom, whensoever any King [Page 74] of England passed through their Town, so to present him. Besides they added, That they held their Lands by that Tenure, being the King's Tenants. His Majesty took it well, and Bad them use well their Plows, being glad he was Landlord of so many good Husbandmen in one Town.
It is mention'd in History to have been a flourishing City, and the old Roman Coins which have been digged up there do attest its Antiquity, and that a Bishop did formerly reside in this place, when it was in that condition.
HUNTINGDON is about half a Mile distant from this place, and is the chief Town of the County, situated upon the River Ouse, over which stands a Bridge made of Stone which gives entrance into it; the Houses are fair, and the Streets large; 'tis adorned with four Churches. and had formely an ancient Monastery belonging to it, some of the Ruins are still to be seen. Near the River, upon a high Hill, stands the remains of a Castle which was built about the Year of Christ 917, afterwards David, King of Scots, waging War against King Stephen upon the account of Maud the Empress, who was his Niece, this then was given upon some certain Terms to the Scotch King, who did exceedingly beautifie and strengthen it, by making strong Rampers and Fortifications round about it, but [Page 75] Henry the Second finding it, in process of time, a Cage for Rebels and Ring-leaders to Sedition, at last quite demolished it; from the top of the Hill is a very pleasant Prospect for some Miles. The Town is governed by a Mayor and Aldermen, and the Assizes are held here twice a Year for the Shire, and wants no kind of Provision to entertain Travellers who resort hether out of the Northern parts, the great Road to the City of London lying through this Town.
In this Town, in the Year 1599, was that Usurper and Religious Cheat Oliver Cromwel Born and Educated, whom though we have reason to curse his very Name, and detest his Memory as odious and execrable, yet since prosperous Successes of the most cruel Tirants, makes others inquisitive after those Persons which they did so fortunately attend. It will not be amiss to tell the World that this place gave him his first Being, who, Nero like, destroyed his Father and his Mother too; the Father of his Country, and his Country too, being a Murderer of the one, and a Plague to the other, who was of so unparallel'd and base a Temper of Mind from his Cradle to his Grave, that nothing could stay with him, or be pleasing to him long, but what carried even the World before it Confusion and Ruin. In this little Shire are numbred seventy eight Parishes, four Hundreds, [Page 76] and six Market-Towns. We stayed here one Night, and the next day we went into
Northamptonshire.
This County is situate in the very middle and heart (as it were) of England. On the East lie Bedford and Hunting donshires. On the South Buckingham and Oxfordshires: Westward Warwickshire: Northward Rutlandshire, and Lincolnshire, separated from it by Avon the less and Welland, two Rivers.
It is a champion County, exceeding populous, and passing well furnished with Noblemens and Gentlemens Houses, replenished also with Towns and Churches; insomuch as in some places there are twenty, and in others thirty Steeples with Spires or square Towers within view at once.
The soil very fertile both for Tillage and Pasture, yet nothing so well stored with Woods unless it be in the further and hither sides. But in every place, as elswhere also in England, it is over-spread, and (as it were) beset with Sheep.
THARPSTONE is twelve Miles distant from Huntingdon, has a great Market for all sorts of Grain, and well stored with Inns; from hence we went to another Town called KETTERING, which is of much more Note than it Neighbours, by reason of a handsome Cross beautified with divers Images [Page 77] curiously carved; the next place was HIGHAM-FERRERS. The excellent Ornament of this place was Henry Chichley, Archbishop of Canterbury, who built All-Souls College in Oxford, and another here, where he placed secular Clerks and Prebendaries, and withal an Hospital for the Poor.
FOTHERING-HAY-Castle, environed on every side with most pleasant Medows.
Here Mary, Queen of Scots, was beheaded.
There belongs unto this Shire three hundred twenty six Parishes.
Leicestershire.
The next place of Note we went to was Leicester, the Metropolis of Leicestershire. 'Tis more venerable for its Antiquity than its comeliness, or present beauty. I find that about the Year 680, it was a Bishop's Seat, though in few Years after the Sea was Translated, and the Dignity being taken away from the Town, it began to go much to decay, but in the time of the Normans it flourished exceedingly, and encreased mightily in Inhabitants, yet afterwards in the Reign of King Henry the Second it was again involved in great Calamities and Disasters. Here is to be seen an ancient Hospital, in the Chappel whereof Henry, Earl of Lancaster, and Henry, his Son, the first Duke of Lancaster, lie Interred, for that Duke being very Aged, and [Page 78] being willing to give some visible Testimony of his Charity, built this Hospital for the Use and Maintenance of divers poor, aged, decreped Persons of both Sexes; and on the other side, amongst those flowry Meadows which the River Sore enricheth with its bubling Stream, Robert, the crook-backt Earl of Leicester, built a Monastery very spacious and magnificent, and Dedicated it to the Virgin Mary, and endowed it with large Revenues. In the Chappel of this Monastery lay interr'd the great and puissant Cardinal Woolsey, who being at first a poor Man's Son of Ipswich in Suffolk, was raised by King Henry the Eighth, for his great Parts and Learning, to the greatest Degree of Honour in this Nation, being advanced to be Lord Chancellor, of England, and presented with a Cardinal's Cap from the Pope, and the unknown Incomes and Revenues, and by his great Treasures and Mints of Money, atchieved more magnificent Acts than ever any Prelate did before him, for he erected the Royal Palace of Hampton-Court, besides two famous Colleges, the one at this Native Town, and the other a most glorious Structure called Christ-Church College in Oxford; and for the height of his Living and Attendance, it is very elegantly set forth by the writer of his Life: But notwithstanding he was the Favourite of his Prince, and the Darling of Fortune, and sued to by [Page 79] Foreigners, and his own Country-men too, as to be the only Person to apply to in all accounts, yet true it is, that Fortune very oft sets great Persons upon the Hill of Honour, thereby to precipitate them with the greater Violence; we find this lofty Cardinal could no way secure himself from the reach of fretting Envy, and learn'd by the mutability of his own Condition, for being retired into the Country, after he seeing his Fortunes began to ebb at Court, having the Great Seal took from him by the King's Order, and was afterwards sent for by the Lieutenant of the Tower to appear before his Majesty; and as returning out of the North to the City of London, in his Journy he fell sick of a Flux at the Earl of Shrewsbury's house in Sheffeild-Park, which being accompanied with a Fever did so weaken his Body, that when he came to Leicester Abby, which way he took, he told the Abbot, after the Solemnities of receiving him were past, That, indeed, he was come to lay his Bones amongst them, which accordingly came to pass, for their he died, and after his death, his Corps being invested by the Monks with all such Ornaments as he was Professed in, when he was made Bishop and Archbishop, as Mitre, Cross-King and Pall, with all other things due to his Order and Dignity, and having lain some few days in State, to be visited by those who had a [Page 80] mind to pay their last Respects to his Person; he was buried in their Chappel dedicated to the Virgin Mary, with great Solemnity, though all perished in the ruin of the Monastery, Subverted not long after when Popery was banished from the Confines of England. This Town had its share of Calamities in the unhappy Civil Wars: It is well furnished with all kind of Grain; it is governed by a Mayor, Alderman and Recorder, with other inferiour Officers to attend them. The Town is strengthened with several Gates, in one whereof is kept the Magazine; it is also adorned with divers eminent Fabricks both Sacred and Civil; the Cross in high Street is a very excellent Structure; there are likewise five Churches, by that which is called St. Martins stands the new Hospital, being a stately Edifice, built and endowed by several Benefactors for the use of divers aged Men and Women, with a Chappel, and a Chaplain to read Divine Service, and to be assistful to those poor People therein, and to this joins their publick Library, which was given for the use of Ministers and Schollars who inhabit here; hard by St. Mary's Church stands the Castle, where the Assizes are kept for the County, and by St. Nicholas there is a Wall, which, by the Ruins of it, seems to be of very great Antiquity, having several hollow places in it of an oval form, of which [Page 81] the Inhabitants have strange Conjectures concerning them, as if there had been some place in which the Pagans did offer up their Children to their blood-thirsty Idols, or that they made them here pass through the fire, as the Israelites did to Moloch, but of this there is no probability at all, and these only being conjectural Guesses, I shall leave them, and observe one thing more concerning this Town. After the fatal Battel betwixt King Richard the Third, and Henry, Earl of Richmond, afterwards Henry the Seventh King of England in Bosworth-field, about the Year of our Lord 1485, in which King Richard, with four Thousand Men more were slain, and not above ten Persons on the other side. The Corps of the deceased King was brought to be buried there in great disgrace, as the day before he went out in pomp; for his Body being rifled by the Souldiers, was carried naked behind a Pursivant at Arms, and being all over daub'd with Mire and Blood, was conveyed to the Grey Friar's Church, that then was within the Town, and there buried very obscurely and meanly, whilst Richmond, with joyful Acclamations, was proclaimed King in the very midst of slaughtered Bodies round about.
CARLETON, all that are born there, whether it be by a peculiar Property of the Soil, or of the Water; or else by some other [Page 82] secret Operation of Nature, have an ill favoured, untunable and harsh manner of Speech, fetching their Words, with very much ado, deep from out of the Throat, with a certain kind of wharling, the Letter R being very irksome to them to pronounce.
Rutlandshire.
It is the least County of all England. Lying in form almost round like a circle, it is in compass so far about, as a Light-horsman will ride in one day.
It was called Rutland, as one would say Red-land, the Earth in this Shire is every where red, and so red, that even the Sheeps fleeces are thereby coloured red: The English-Saxons called Red in their Tongue Roet and Rud.
UPPINGHAM, a place upon an high ascent, whence that name was imposed, a well frequented Market Town.
The Vale of Catmose, a field full of Woods.
Okeham is in the middle of it, so called from Oaks.
This small Shire hath Parish Churches fourty eight.
Lincolnshire.
A very large County reaching almost three Score Miles in length, and carrying in some places above thirty Miles in breadth; passing good for yielding of Corn, and feeding of [Page 83] Cattel, well furnished and set out with great number of Towns, and watered with many Rivers, having great store of Fish and Fowl.
BOSTON is a famous Town, standing on both sides the River Witham, which hath over it a wooden Bridge of great height, well frequented by means of a commodious Haven unto it: The Market-place is fair and large, and the Buildings are very beautiful; also a most stately Church, with a very high Tower-steeple, and hath as many steps in its steeple from the bottome to the top, as there are Days in the Year; which Steeple salutes Passengers and Travellers a great way off, and giveth Direction also to Sailers. In the Coat of Boston for the Corporation, there are three Crowns relating to the three Kingdoms, the Crest a Ram lying upon a Wool-sack, the Ram signifying the great Sheep-walks in the Fens round about, and the Wool-sack, that it was a Staple-Town; the Supporters of the Coat are two Maremaids, signifying that it was a Port-Town.
LINCOLN. The chief City of the County, and is large, well inhabited and frequented, it is situated upon the side of an Hill, and thence hath its Name from its Situation, or because it hath been a Colony. Certain it is a Place of great Antiquity, and of a very long standing; there are fourteen Churches, whereof the Cathedral is very glorious, being [Page 84] not much in feriour to any, and in one of the Steples there is a very great Bell rung by sixteen Men, called Great Tom of Lincoln.
'Tis governed by a Mayor and Aldermen. The Diocess here is the largest in England, for after three Bishopricks were taken out of it, it contained four whole Counties, and parts of two; the whole Shire is divided into three Part, whereof one is called Holland, a second Kestuen, and the third Lindsey.
GRANTHAM, a Town of good resort, adorned with a School built by Richard Fox, Bishop of Winchester, and with a fair Church, having a Spire-steeple of a mighty height. There are in this Shire six hundred and thirty Parishes, thirty and one Hundreds, and thirty Market Towns. We went from hence into
Nottinghamshire.
It is limited Northward with Yorkshire, Westward with Darbyshire, and in some other parts with Yorkshire. The South and East parts thereof are made fruitful by the River Trent, with other Riverets resorting unto it.
NOTTINGHAM is built upon a Rock, and is environed by Rocks on one side which are washed by a crooked winding of a commodious River, and hath a very fair Park of the Duke of New Castle's adjoining to it, with the Forest of Shirewood bordering upon it. The Streets are large and well paved, the [Page 85] Market-place very handsome and convenient, the Churches spatious and well contrived, and the Houses high and stately, they are for the most part built with Brick, but some of them are rare pieces as well for Structure as Design; and, in short, the whole front of their Fabrick is beautified with Sculptures and glistering Balconies, the Inhabitants be very desirous of the new Modes and Draughts of Architecture. The Castle which is on the West side of the Town is situated upon an exceeding high Rock, and is supposed to be a place of very great Antiquity, This Castle held out a Siege by the Danes against Alfred, and it was then called Snottenham, and now Nottingham. King Edward the Second strenghened the Town by an addition of Walls, and a new Castle was built by William the Conqueror to keep the English in awe and subjection, and by Art and Nature together it became even impregnable. Edward the Fourth illustrated it with several Dwelling-houses for Commanders and Soldiers, and indeed in the Rock upon which the Castle stands, are several small Cottages hewen out of it, in which, at present, dwells divers poor people; and it is reported, that it never was taken until it was surprized by Robert, Earl of Derby, in the Baron's Wars, who having once got this entered the Town, and then used the Townsmen according to [Page 86] his pleasure; though I find too in the Life of King Stephen, that Robert, Earl of Gloucester, invaded this Town with a great Power, and when most of the Townsmen were slain and burnt in the Churches whither they fled for refuge; there is a Story of one of them who was richer than the rest, and being forced to return to his own house by the Soldiers that had taken him, to shew them where all his Treasures lay, he bringing them into a Celler, and whilst they were busy in breaking open Locks and Coffers, conveyed himself away, making the Door fast after him, and set the House on fire, so that the Soldiers, being thirty in number, perished all in the Flames, which ketching hold of other Buildings joining to it, almost burnt up the whole Town: But that which makes this Castle most signally remarkeable, was the Discovery of Roger Mortimore, Earl of March, and the Imprisonment too of David le Brase, King of the Scots, who was here confined; the relation of which I shall set down as briefly as I can.
After King Edward the Second had been Deposed and Murdered by the Plots of his own Wife, Queen Isabella, and King Edward the Third, her Son, had Reigned about four Years, a Parliament was called at Nottingham, where this Roger Mortimore, who was then the Queen's most especial Favourite, was in [Page 87] such Glory and Renown, that it was beyond all comparison: None so much Lord Paramount, as the Earl of March: None appears in so great an Equippage, and attended with so honourable a Retinue, as the Earl of March; so that the King's Train was inferiour to his, and his Majesty's Glory eclipsed, by the Pomp and Grandeur of one of his Nobles, for he very oft would presume to go foremost, and his own Officers, and was so exceeding proud and haughty, as to make all Persons cringe, and do as great Homage to him, as to Majesty it self; nay, he undertook to Order and Dispose of all Persons and Affairs to his own Will and Pleasure; and hereupon one day he very sharply rebuked the Earl of Lancaster, the King's Cousin, for presuming to appoint Lodgings for certain Noblemen near the Court, without his particular License and Assignation, and having dislodged the Earl, with some other Persons of very great Quality, and removed them a Mile out of Town, he did by this means so incense the Nobility against him, that they began to pry more narrowly into his Actions, and being enraged to see his Pride and Usurpation of his great Prerogatives, they unanimously held against him, and gave it out amongst the People, That this Mortimore was the Queen's Gallant, and the King's Master, and sought by all means he possibly could to destroy the [Page 88] Royal Blood, and to Usurp the Crown; which Report did so work upon some of the King's most trusty Friends, that they got Robert Holland, who had a long time been Governor of the Castle, and knew well all the secret Corners therein, to swear Secrecy to them, and Fidelity to the King, and accordingly to assist them in those Designs they had in hand: Whereupon one night King Edward lying without the Castle, both he, and his Friends, were brought by Torch-light through a secret place under ground, beginning a far off from the said Castle, ('tis the Vault which is still called Mortimore's Hole) till they came even to the Queen's Chamber, which, by chance, they found open; being armed with naked Swords, in they rushed, leaving the King in the same posture at the Door; being entered into the Privy-chamber, they found the Earl of March undressed, ready to go to bed to the Queen, but they crossed his Design, and cool'd his Courage, halling him away by force, upon which the Queen cried out, Good Son, take pitty upon gentle Mortimore, suspecting her Son to be there in the company: The Keys of the Castle were presently called for, and every place, withal the Furniture committed into the King's Hands, and Mortimore was forthwith sent to the Tower, who, being Tried by his Peers, Arraign'd and found Guilty, was hanged upon the [Page 89] common Gallows two Days and two Nights. The Articles that were brought against him were divers, though his Familiarity with the Queen, his Treachery to his King, and his great Service to David, King of the Scots, was the chief, whilst he also burnt the Charters by which the Scotch King stood obliged to do Homage to the King of England, and thereupon ensued a great War betwixt them; for King David being spurred on by the French King Invaded England, and having made a great Road into the Northern Counties, and spoiling and burning every where as they went along, at length, at Durham his Army was routed, and himself taken Prisoner, being first sent to the Tower, afterward committed to this Castle, where, during his consinement, he engraved upon the Walls of his Deportment, the History of our Saviour's Death and Passion, the Relicts of which are still to be seen. After eleven Years Imprisonment, he was restored against to his Kingdom, by paying a good Ransom for his Liberty; but before he returned, he was one of the four Kings that was nobly Treated by Henry Picard, a Vintner, then Lord Mayor of London: These were the four Kings, Edward the Third, King of England; John, King of France; David, King of the Scots; and the King of Cyprus, together with Edward, The Black Prince, all bearing him company at the [Page 90] same Table; this was about the Year 1358. But before I leave this Town, I cannot but take notice of one thing more memorable in our Age, this being the first place where King Charles the First set up his Royal Standard against the Rebels in the late unhappy Wars, and when the King's Forces were forced, to leave it, the Castle was quite demolished. We went from hence to view the Chair of Robin-Hood, of which it follows.
Having pleasured our selves with the Antiquities of this Town, we took Horse and went to visit the Well and ancient Chair of Robin-Hood, which is about a Mile within the Forest of Shirwood: Being placed in that Chair, we had a Cap, which, they say, was his, very formally put upon our Heads, and having performed the usual Ceremonies befitting so great a Solemnity, we received the Freedom of the Chair, and were incorporated into the Society of that renowned Brotherhood; but that we may not receive such Privileges without an honourable mentioning of the Persons that left them to Posterity; know, we must, that the Patent was bequeathed to the inferior Rangers of this Forest, by Robin Hood and Little John, honourable Personages indeed, being the chief Lords of some most renowned Robbers in the Reign of King Richard the First: This same Robin Hood entertained one Hundred tall Men, all [Page 91] good Archers, with the Spoil he daily made himself Master of, whom four Hundred, tho' every way well Accoutred to give Battel, durst scarce make an Onset. He suffered no Woman to be violated, oppress'd, oa any ways molested; poor Men's Goods he spared, and did relieve them very liberally with what he got from the rich Carles: He killed none, and by this means he did, for a long time, keep up the Order of Knight Errants. Having, for some time, pleased our selves with our new Brothers that very curteously entertained us, we went from hence into
Yorkshire.
The County of York is the greatest Shire by far of all England, and is thought to be in a temperate measure fruitful. If in one place there be stony and sandy barren ground, in another place there are for it Corn-fields, as rich and fruitful; if it be void and destitute of Woods here, you shall find it shadowed in another place with most thick Forests. The Length extendeth from Hart-hill in the South, to the Mouth of Tees in the North, which is near seventy Miles; the breadth from Flambrough-head to Horn-Castle upon the River Lun is Eighty; the whole circumference three hundred and eight Miles.
HELMSLEY, a Mannor in Yorkshire hath two Parks and a Chase in it, said to be about [Page 92] 146 Miles in compass, and had 40000 Timber-Trees, and 200 Acres of Wood. There are many Free-holders there.
The whole Shire is divided into 3 parts, which, according to the 3 Quarters of the World, are called The West-Riding, The East-Riding, The North-Riding. West-Riding, for a good while is compassed in with the River Ouse, with the bound of Lancashire, and with the South limits of the Shire, and beareth toward the West and South: East-Riding looketh to the Sun-rising, and the Ocean, which, together with the River Derwent, encloseth it. North-Riding reacheth Northward, hemmed in (as it were) with the River Tees, with Derwent, and a long race of the River Ouse.
YORK is the fairst City in all this County, and deservedly reputed the Second of England; for its Greatness and Munificence, the pleasantness of its Situation, the Buildings are stately and beautiful. The whole City is rich, glorious and honourable, both in respect of its being governed by a Lord Mayor, who moderates in all Cases of Temporal Affairs, as also by an Archbishop who is Judge in all Spiritual Matters. The River Ouse flowing with a gentle Stream from the North part cutteth it in twain, and divided (as it were) into two Cities, which are conjoined with a stone Bridge, having one mighty Arch. There is a Cathedral Church dedicated [Page 93] to Saint Peter, an excellent fair and stately Fabrick, near unto which there is the Prince's House, commonly called, The Mannour.
York was a Colony of the Romans, Ptolomey and Antonine; and also by a piece of Money coined by the Emperour Severus, in the reverse whereof we read, ‘COL. EBORACUMLEG. VI. VICTRIX.’
Severus had his Palace in this City, and here at the hour of death gave up his last breath, with these words: I entered upon a State every way troublesome, and I leave it peaceable even to the Britains.
There are many fine Seats of Persons of Quality, by reason of the Pleasantness of its Soil, which abounds in Plenty of all things, and for Pleasure and Recreation it affords the most of any County in England.
In the North-Riding of this County is Ounsbery-Hill, or Rosebery-Topping, which mountup a mighty height, and maketh a goodly shew a farre off, so often as the Head thereof hath his cloudy Cap on, lightly there followeth rain whence they have a proverbial Rhime,
I could have particuliz'd several other Towns and Villages in this Shire, but what [Page 94] has been related is most material, and again the Volume is but small, and would not bear it. In this County there are 459 Parishes, under which are very many Chappels, for number of Inhabitants equal unto great Parishes. We went from hence into the Bishoprick of Durham, of which it follows.
Durham.
The chief Town; in Latin, Dunelmum, a County Palatine, and a Bishop's See; 'tis situated upon a Hill, and encompassed almost round by the River Were, is also shaped in form of an Egg, and strongly fortified both by Art and Nature. There is a stately Cathedral which makes a fine and lofty shew, with an high Tower in the midst, and two Spires at the West end. The County in general is very pleasant, and rich in its Mountains with Iron and Coals, and its Vallies with Corn and Grass: But before I leave this County, I cannot omit the mentioning of a certain place near Derlington, which is 3 Pits full of Water of a wonderful depth, called by the common People Hell Kettles, concerning which Sir Richard Baker in his English Chronicles gives this Account, That in the 24th Year of King Henry the Second the Earth in this place lifted up it self in the manner of an high Tower, and so remained from Morning till Evening unmoveable, and presently after that time [Page 95] fell with so horrible a noise, that it affrighted all the Inhabitants thereabouts, and the Earth swallowing it up made those 3 deep Pits, which are still to be seen. The next place we took notice of was
Northumberland.
The Ground appears to be very barren and rough, and is Mountainous and Rocky in many parts of it. Towards the Sea and Tine, by diligence and good Husbandry, it becometh fruitful, but elswhere 'tis hard and rugged. By reason of the sharpness of the Air, and coursness of the Soil, the Inhabitants are lookt upon, and esteem'd to be a War-like People, and excellent Light-horsemen. The Nobility and Gentry of the North are of great Antiquity, and can produce more ancient Families than any other Part of England, many of their Gentry taking date before the Conquest, the rest came in with William the Conqueror.
NEW-CASTLE upon TINE, (so called because Robert de Curtois, Son of William the Conqueror, built there a New Castle out of the ground against the neighbouring Scots) the very Eye of all the Towns in these Parts, enabled by a notable Haven, which Time maketh, being of that depth, that it beareth very tall Ships, and so defendeth them, that they can neither be easily tossed with Tempests, nor driven upon Shallows and Shelves. The [Page 96] Town is situated on the rising of an Hill, adorned with four Churches, and fortified with strong Walls which have 7 Gates in them, with many Towers. It is wealthy, partly by entercourse of Traffick with the Germans, and partly by carrying out Sea-coals, wherewith this Place aboundeth, both into foreign Countries, and also into other parts of England.
BERWICK is the utmost Town in England, and the strongest hold in all Britain. It is well near compassed about with the Sea, and Twede together. Upon the West of Northumberland the Picct's Wall is to be seen of great height, and almost whole. There are about 46 Parishes in Northumberland.
Cumberland.
This County is like the rest of the Northern Counties, and hath a sharp piercing Air; the Soil is fertile, for the most part, both with Corn and Cattel, and in some parts hereof with Fish and Fowl. Here are likewise several Minerals which have of late been discovered, not only Mines of Copper; but Veins of Gold and Silver too have been found here, as I was credibly inform'd; and of all the Shires we have, it is accounted the best furnished with the Roman Antiquities. Nor it is no less renowned for its high Mountains than for its Mines, of which there are three, Skiddow, Lanvellin and [Page 97] Casticand, and these Words goes much concerning the height of them,
CARLISLE, is commodiously Situated, and is fortified with a strong Wall, Castle and Cittadel; the Cathedral Church there being formerly a very stately and magnificence Structure, adorned with rare Ornaments. Not far from this City, is a Trophy of Victory, as is supposed, called by the Country People Long-Megg and her Daughters, being Seventy and seven Stones, each of them Ten Foot high above-ground, and one of them is fifteen foot. There are in Cumberland 9 Market-Towns, and 58 Parishes.
Westmorland.
It is so called because it lieth amongst Moors and high Hills, and was, for the most part, unmanured; such barren places the Northern Englishmen call Moors; and Westmoreland is a Western Moorish-county. The Air is sharp and cold.
KENDALE-KIRKE by Kendale, a very great Town of Trade and Resort, with two broad and long Streets crossing the one over the other; a place excellent for Cloathing, and for Industry so surpassing, that in regard thereof it carrieth a great Name. For, [Page 98] the Inhabitants have great Traffick, and vent of their Woollen-cloaths throughout all parts of England.
APELBY, memorable for its Antiquity and Situation only. It standeth in a pleasant Site, encompassed for the most part with the River Eden; for its Antiquity it deserves to be counted the chief Town of the Shire. The Castle is the common Goal for Malefactors, and the Sessions and Assizes are there kept.
In this Shire are contained 26 Parishes.
Lancashire.
It is a large, populous and well wooded County. The County Palatine of Lancaster (famous for the four Henries, the Fourth, Fifth, Sixth and Seventh Kings of England, derived from John Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster,) is upon the South-confined and parted by the River Mersey, from the County Palatine of Chester, the County of Darbyshire bordering upon the East; the large County of Yorkshire, together with Westmorland and Cumberland, being her kind Neighbours upon the North, and the Sea called Mare Hibernicum imbracing her upon the West. Their Kine and Oxen have goodly Heads and fair spread Horns, and are in body well proportionate withal; but the Ground, for the generality, is Hilly and Mountainous.
[Page 99] MANCHESTER, a Town of great antiquity, from Main, a British Word, which signifieth a Stone: It is seated upon a stony Hill, and beneath the Town, there are most famous Quarries of Stone. It far excelleth the Towns lying round about it, for the Beautiful shew it carrieth, for resort unto it, and for Cloathing: In regard also of the Mercate place, the fair Church and Colledge.
LANCASTER, or Loncaster from the River Lone, the chief Town of this Region. I shall now give a short Account of the Seven Wonders, which are as follows,
The First Wonder
Is at the Divel's Arse, near a Village called Castleton, sufficiently Noted for that wide Subterraneons Cavarn, known by the Name of the Devil's Arse, which runs under the Hill upon which the Castle stands; and at its Entrance, it is Large and Capatious, tho' the further you go in, the more narrower it is Contracted; within the Mouth of it are several poor Cottages Erected, the top of this Cave is an exceeding great Height, and appears to the Eye as if it were Arched above and Chequer'd with diversity of culloured Stones. At the Entrance the poor People are very ready to attend with Candles, and Lanthorns, to conduct Strangers in, tho' it belonged to Satan's Territories, and it [Page 100] is very Dark and Slippery by reason of several Currants of Water which runs along the Cave, which puts a stop to your Journey; there is a Story of a Shepherd that past over all these Currents, and at last came into a very fair and delightful Meadow, which savours too much of a Romance to be credited; however, 'tis supposed could all these Waters once be gone over, there might be made some new Discoveries, but it is a dismal place both for its Name and Nature, and hath so near a Relation to the Diabolical Regions.
The Second Wonder
Is Mamtar; 'tis a high steep Cliff, and from the top of which Cliff or Rock the Sand tho' the Air be never so Calm, doth continually trickle to the bottom Night and Day, and now and then great Stones fall down with a very great Noise, and do much affright the poor Neighbouring Inhabitants. On the top of it, bubbles up a Fountain which in some places streams down the Cliff.
The Third Wonder
Is a Fountain which Ebbs and Flows like the Sea, receiving an influence from the Moon, and observing the same regular Motions by which the Ocean it self continually is regulated.
The Fourth Wonder
Is called the Marble Stones by their orderly Dispositions, into several rows, one row higher than another; it seems rather to be the contrivance of Art than of Nature, but that we ought not to Derogate from that great Parent, whose production are continually Rare and Unimitable.
The Fifth Wonder
Is Elden Hole, near unto the Fourth Wonder; 'tis reputed a bottomless Abyss, and could never as yet by any Art be Fathomed: The Mouth of it is wide and craggy, but the inward recesses contracted and intrecate. There is a Story that they let a Man down by Ropes, and Candles to light him, to give an Account of this infernal Pit, but paid dearly for his Presumption with the loss of his life for his Boldness.
The Sixth Wonder
Is Buxtons-Well, about two Miles from the fifth Wonder; it glories in a hot Well; 'tis inclosed in a very fair Stone Building, erected formerly by the Earl of Shrewsbury; the Operation is very near to that of the Cross Bath, having two Springs of Water, the one within a hand breadth of the other, and one is Hot, the other cold as Ice.
The Seventh and last Wonder
Is Pool Hole; 'tis a Hollow Cave under a very high Rock, bearing some resemblance with that by the City of Wells, called Ochy Hole, but not containing in it self half so great Varieties. From hence we went into
Cheshire.
It is a County Palatine, and of great Note for plenty of several Commodities; as also for most excellent Cheese, and the Men and Women are generally Acounted very Handsome here. There is in this County great store of Salt-Springs, Mettals and Mines, and in the River Dee is plenty of Salmons; on the South part of Cheshire, Trees are very frequently found by Diging under the Ground, which is believed have been here ever since Noah's Flood.
The chief Town of this County is West Chester, a City famous for its Antiquity and Situation, and no less for its Renown; 'tis Built in the form of a Quadrant, with very spacious Houses, neat and uniform, and environed with a very strong Wall, and hath a Castle stands upon a high Hill near the River Dee strongly Fortified. Here are several Churches which are very Antient and goodly Fabricks, but especially for the Cathedrals. The Houses are very fairly Built, [Page 103] and along the chief Streets are Galleries or Walking-places; they call them Rows, haing Shops on both sides, through which a Man may walk dry from one end to another.
NANTWICH, which the River Wever first visiteth, is reputed the greatest and fairest built Town of all this Shire after Chester. It is called the White-wich or Salt-pich, because the whitest Salt is there boiled. This Shire containeth 13 Market Towns, and 68 Parishes. We went next into
Shropshire.
Or the County of Salop, is for the most part Rich in Corn and Cattle, and glories in in its most famous City of Shrewsbury, which is compassed almost round by the River Severn, having two fair Bridges upon it, and is Fortified both by Art and Nature. It is like a Horse-shew in the opening place, and doubtless deserves the Observation of all Travellers, more than any Town or City in this Nation, and is built upon the Riseing of a Hill; the Churches are very fair and Spacious, it is inhabited with both Welsh and English, speaking both Languages. One of their Rarities there is their Cakes, such as cannot be made so well in any other place of England, and many things here is very observable, which I shall not mention, because [Page 104] they have been allready so well set fourth by other Pens. From hence we went into
LUDLOW, is one of the chiefest Towns in this County, and is of greater Antiquity than Beauty; 'tis Situated by a pleasant River, and is famous for its Castle built by Roger, Earl of Mountgomery, who environed it with a Wall a Mile in compass; afterwards when Robert, Earl of Shrewsbury, and Eldest Son to Mountgomery, was taken in his Rebellion against Henry the First, and was banished out of the Land; the King took this Castle into his own Hands; after this it was given away from the Crown, by King Henry the Second, and came into the Family of the Lacys and Mortimors, at last to be the inheritance of the Princes of Wales. And by this means beginning to be in great request, the Inhabitants erected a very large Church to make it more Famous; and in a little time, it excelled all its Neighbourhood, and out-shin'd them in Lustre and Dignity; for King Henry the Eighth instituted here the Counsel of the Marches of Wales, in which he Ordered there should be a President, Secretary, Attorney and Solicitor, four Justices of some of the Neighbouring Counties of Wales, and as many other Privy Counsellours, as the Prince of Wales should Elect to be Assistant to himself in this [Page 105] Court, being erected for his own particular Use and Service. We staid in this Town but two Nights, and went from hence into
Staffordshire.
Is very Rich in Pasture and Cattle, and enriched by the River Trent, Trigenta as some will have it; because there are Thirty several Streams or Rivolets which run into it, or Thirty several sorts of Fish which Swims within its Streams: However, 'tis very Advantageous to the whole County; the first Town of Note we came to in this County was
STAFFORD is situated on a pleasant Soil, sweet Air, Environed with a Wall, and Fortified with Gates, and adorned with two Churches, and a Spacious Free-School, and a large Market-place, and the Houses very Handsome and Beautiful; it is Governed by a Mayor and Aldermen; not far from the Town are to be seen the Ruins of an old Castle, Situated upon a Hill, heretofore belonging to the Barons of Stafford.
LICHFIELD. This City is low Seated, of good Largeness, and Fair withall, divided into two parts with a shallow pool of clear Water; which Parts notwithstanding join in one by the means of two Bridges, or Causeys, made over, that have their Sluces made, to let out the Water.
[Page 106] It was beautified with a very goodly Cathedral Church, which being round about compassed with a fair Wall-Castle-like, and garnished besides with fair Houses of Prebendaries, and with the Bishop's Palace also, mounting up on high with three Pyramids or Spires of Stone, making a lovely shew, and for elegant and proportional Building it did yield to few Cathedral Churches, but is now demolished. There are accounted an Hundred and Thirty Parishes in this Shire. We went next into
Warwickshire.
It is bounded on the East-side with Northamptonshire, Leicestershire, and the Watlingstreet-way; on the South with Oxfordshire and Glocestershire; on the West for the greatest part with Worcestorshire; and on the Northside with Staffordshire. It is divided into a plain Champion, and a woody Country; which parts the River Avon, running crookedly from North-East to South-West, doth after a sort sever one from the other.
WARWICK is the principal Town of the whole Shire. It standeth over the River Avon upon a steep and high Rock, and all the Passages into it are wrought out of the very Stone. It stands in a dry and fertile Soil, having the benefit of rich and pleasant Medows on the South part, with the [Page 107] lofty Groves and spacious Thickets of the Woodland on the North. It hath a very strong Castle, the seat in times past of the Earls of Warwick, the Town it self is adorned with fair Houses.
COVENTRY. It is a City very commodiously Seated, large, sweet and neat, was fortified with a strong Wall, and is set out with right goodly Houses; among which there rise up on high two Churches of rare Workmanship, standing one hard by the other, and matched (as it were) as concurrents; the one consecrated to the Holy Trinity, the other to Saint Michael. One and the self same Bishop carried the name both of Coventry and Lichfield.
Leofrick, the first Lord of this City, being much offended and angry with the Citizens, oppressed them with most heavy Tributes, which he would remit upon no other condition, at the earnest suit of his Wife Godina, unless she would her self ride on Horseback Naked through the Greatest and most inhabited Street of this City; which she did indeed, and was covered with her fair long Hair, and also a Proclamation was publish'd, commanding all People to keep close within their Houses, as also their Doors and Windows shut, no Person on pain of Death to appear in that Street, nor so much as to look into it, whether out of a Window or [Page 108] otherwise; upon which, as she was riding along Naked, one Man curious than Ordinary, ventures to peep out of a Garret Window, and being immediately discovered, was Apprehended and Hang'd, as by the Effigies of a Man, that is continually kept up as a Memorandum, in a full proportion, looking out of a Garret Window, and called by the Inhabitants, Peeping Jack: And thus she did set free her Citizens of Coventry from many Payments for ever.
At Gosford-Gate there hangeth to be seen a mighty great Shield-bone of a wild Bore, (or rather of an Elephant, being not so little as a yard in length) which Guy of Warwick slew in Hunting, when he had turned up with his Snout a great Pit or Pond, which is now called Swansewell, but Swineswell in times past. In this County there are an Hundred and Fifty Eight Parish Churches.
Worcestershire.
At the first entring on the Confines of this Shire, we found it a very Healthfull and plentiful County: One part is of Note for its excellent Cheese, but mostly for its great number of Pear-trees growing all along the very Hedges, of which the Inhabitants make a very pleasant Drink, called Perry; 'tis likewise very full of Salt Pits, and hath formerly been admir'd for the abundance of [Page 109] Salt-Springs, which have very oft been discovered in this County; but that which makes it most renowned, is the River Severn, which streams along the County. This, as also the River Avon, which comes out of Warwickshire, are well replenished with all sorts of Fish, but more particularly seem to have been designed on purpose, as Stews and Ponds for the preservation of Lampreys; a Fish of great Esteem in that Country, and sent far and near as a very great present throughout divers parts of England. They are called Lampreys, from the Latin word Lampretra, as if they had their Denomination from licking of Rocks; they are like Eels, slippery and blackish, however on their Bellies they are of a blewish Collour; in the Spring they are most wholesome and sweet, for in the Summer the part which is to them instead of a Back-bone, waxeth very hard: Naturalist observe that these Fish receive and let in Water at seven Holes, for that they have no Gills visible at all; the Romans allways thought this a very Noble Dish, and when any Person of Quality desired a Sumptuous Feast, he would be sure to be provided with these; and the Italians at this day are very much delighted with them, and upon that Account are very exquisite in their Dressing of them, and consequently by their Cookery, make them exceeding delicate to [Page 110] the taste. The first Town of Note we came to in this County, was the City of
WORCESTER, It is the chief City of this County, and gives its Name to it; the River Severn, which in other parts of the County runs along in a swift Currant here, glides more softly with a more gentle Stream, admiring as it were this City as it passeth by. It is famous both for its Antiquity and Beauty, 'tis supposed that the Romans built it, at that time when they first planted Cities on the Eastern-side of the Severn, to hinder the Incursion of the Britains, who were on the other side, even as they did on the South-side of the Rhine in Germany, to repress the Germans, and keep them within their own Boundaries. 'Tis situated partly upon the brow of a Hill, rising with a gentle Ascent, and hath a very fair Bridge over the River, and is of great Repute by Reason that the Citizens are generally great Clothiers. The Houses are Neat and well Built, the Streets clean and well Paved, the Churches in Number many, in Order and Beauty excellent, but especially, the Cathedral built many Hundred Years since; in this Church are divers small Pillars, all of pure Marble, which stand in Rows, and do uphold that vast Bulk and Fabrick, somewhat strange to see the Body larger then the Supporters, that so small props should be able to bear [Page 111] up so great a Weight. This City hath suffered great Calamities by Fire, having almost been quite Burnt up by the Danes three times, and in the Year 1113. by an unknown Casualty, and once again in the Reign of King Stephen: And, sure I am, 'tis not long since it fell into the Hands of some Barbarous and merciless Rebells, who were as raging as the Flames, and whose Fury was as unquenchable as the Fire. Witness the grevious Pressures it groaned under for its Loyalty, Love and Obedience to the King in the Year 1651. For here it was, That after His Majesties long Exile, he arived with an Army of Scots and some English the 22d. of August, and by the Assistance of the Citizens beat out the Soldiers, who kept it for the Common-wealth, and being Proclaim'd by the Mayor that then was, and one of the Sheriffs, King of England, Scotland, France, and Ireland; nevertheless was attended with the same ill Fortune and Success which had been too long his Attendance. And having but a small Army in comparison of the numberless Number of Rebells that were poured in upon him, was totally Defeated; in this City several of his Nobles slain and took Prisoners, the rest forced to fly for their Lives, and himself constrained to make his Escape as privately as he could, and to betake himself into a [Page 112] Wood in Staffordshire, where he hiding himself in the Shady Bows of a well spread Oak, he found more pitty and security from the Trees and Woods, than from his own unnatural and Bloody Subjects; who for the fear of God by whom Kings Reign, as well as their Allegiance which they have sworn to him, ought to have been his continual Protection and Safe-good: However, 'tis restor'd again to its Lustre, and like the Phenix is raised again out of the Ashes to its native Splender and Magnificence, being still Governed by a Mayor, two Sheriffs, and a Court of Aldermen, with other Officers fit to preserve it in that Bravery, to which it hath now attained. From hence we went next into.
Herefordshire.
Having sufficiently satisfied our selves with the Varieties of that City, we came into the Confines of the Eastern part of Herefordshire, which is very Rocky and Mountainous at the first; but having passed those Rocky parts, we began to find the County more pleasant to the Eye. We discovered it to be a fertile Soil, the Vallies thick with Corn, and the Meadows abounding with Grass, and well watered with Rivers, the Hills covered with Sheep, and the Hedges full of Apple-trees, which bear a sort of [Page 97] Fruit, called Red Streaks, of which they make the best Cyder in England; in a word, we found it according to the usual report which is made of it, to yield to no County in this Nation for three W. W. W. Wheat, Wool and Waters, to which formerly might have been added Wood, but the Iron Works have destroyed it very much, and made it now become less plentiful. The first Town of Note we came to in this County was
LEOMSTER, Is a Town of great Request in this County, and is of great Antiquity: Some are of an Opinion, that it received its Denomination from Linen, Hemp or Flax; because, that grows thereabouts in plenty, but it may be so called from Lana, because it is reported to have the best Wool known by the Name of Leomster Ore, and is said to make the finest Cloth in England, and as its Wool makes the finest Cloth, so doth its Wheat the purest Bread; and they say hereabouts, that for Leomster Bread, and Weobly Beer, none can Compare. Concerning the Town it is Situated in a pleasant Valley, and is Governed by a Bayliff and Aldermen, and is Adorned with a very handsome Hall, for the dispatching of publick Affairs. We went from hence to
HEREFORD, The chief City hereof, is Situated almost in the Middle of the County, and Watered by two pleasant Rivers [Page 98] Wye and Lugg, which by their happy Union not far from this City, advance her Felicity and enrich her Soil: Antiquaries are of an Opinion, that this City had its Rise from Ariconium, which at this Day hath no form at all of a Town, as having been over-turned by an Earthquake, as some do imagine it to have been in this Place, which they now call Lenchester, some three Miles distant from this City, which they conceive to be so from the Ruines of old Walls that are here to be seen, as likewise from four square Pareing Stones and thick Bricks, as well as several Roman Coins digged up in the Earth, though now all grown over with Trees, Bushes and Brambles: We observed when we went to Visit this place, we saw several peices of an old Wall, which do Argue the place to continue in it very great remains of Antiquity; however, her Sister Hereford, which now is Beautiful by the pains of others, claims rightly the Pre-eminence before all other places in this County, wanting nothing for Pleasure and Profit to make her Renowned. She is thought first to have shewn her Head in the time of the Saxon, and it is supposed to have received great Helps and Increase by Religion, and the Martyrdom of Ethelbert, King of the East Angels, who when he courted the Daughter of Offa, King of the Mercians, was treacherously [Page 99] put to death by Quendred, Offa's Wife; hereupon, being Registered for a Martyr, he had a Church built and dedicated to him by Milsred, a petty King of this County, which after the Establishment of a Bishop's See, it grew to great Wealth and Honour, and is thought never to have suffered any Misfortune until Edward the Confesser's time, when Griffith, Prince of South Wales, and Algarus had raised a Rebellion against King Edward, and led away Captive the Bishop, Sacked the City, and burnt the Cathedral; afterwards the Normans, at the East end of the Church by the River Wye, built a strong Castle, and fortified the City with a Wall, and by the Trench near the Castle, is a very fine Spring called St. Ethelbert's Well. Within this City are four Parish-Churches, and Bishop Reinelin, in the Reign of King Henry the First, founded the Cathedral which now is, being a beautiful and magnificent Structure, adorned with divers ancient Monuments of Bishops and Abbors. The City is governed by a Mayor, (who is annually Sworn upon Michaelmas-Day, 12 Aldermen, a Recorder, and divers Common-Councel-Men, and by their Charter have Privileges for particular Companies and Societies amongst themselves, who have several distinct Halls and Petty-laws Enacted, for Regulating and Ordering their Affairs in Trade. It hath three Markets a-Week, [Page 100] in which there are plenty of Corn, and all sorts of Provisions.
About two Miles from this County stands Rotheram, as formerly belonging to the Family of Boddenham, now in the Possession of the Family of Van Arker, and is one of the delightfullest and sweetest Seats in all the County having a spacious Park before it, the River Nye behind it, pleasant Meadows on the one side, and fruitful Tillage on the other; and having had such great plenty of Appletrees belonging to it, as I have been credibly informed by those that then knew it, That take but one Apple from each Tree, it would make a Hogshead of Cyder.
Concerning some remarkable Things in this County, &c. BONE-well near Richard's Castle, we went to visit, to take some notice of Nature, who is never more curious than in her Water-works, presented us with another new Rarity; a Well called Bone-well, in the Water whereof are always bubling up several little Bones, like Bones of Fishes, and altho' they which be upon the Surface are, with as great care as can be, taken off, yet others will immediately succeed in their room.
HOPTON's-well is not far from this, the Water whereof is found very effectual for the Curing of several Maladies which have seized upon Poor, Languishing, Decriped Mortals; it hath likewise been observed to [Page 101] by very good for the restoring of Eye-sight to the Blind, and is also of great use in strengthening the Limbs of weak Persons.
SUTTON WALLS. Amongst the other Varieties we were entertanied with in this County, there were some Remains of Antiquity, called Sutton walls: Near to the Village of Marden, are the Ruins of some antient great Buildings, in all probability, supposed to be the Mansion-house of Offa, when Renchester flourished, or, at least, when Hereford was but in its Infancy: This Offa being King of the Mercians, having invited Ethelhert, King of the East-Angles into his Palace under colour and pretence of bestowing his Daughter upon him in Marriage; by the Councel of his ambitious Wife (in hopes to succeed him in his Kingdom,) basely and treacherously caused his Head to be stricken off, by one Grimbert, his Servant, and his Body being buried on the Banks of the River Lugg, was afterwards removed to Hereford, and over it was built a Cathedral by King Milfred, which was since dedicated to St. Ethelbert. Having sufficiently recreated our selves with all the pleasure, pastimes and rarities in this County, we began to think to return towards London, and went from this City to a place called Ross, in this County, a Town noted for its famous Houses of Slates and Stones, as also for a great number [Page 102] of Blacksmiths, hammering out their living upon their Anvells, and when we were past that Town we soon came into the Confines of Gloucestershire, of which hereafter.
Gloucestershire.
Being within the Confines of this County, we found it most fertile, watered by the River Severn, and be-set with Woods and thick Groves; 'tis happy in the enjoyment of all things which are necessary for the Use and Service of Man; the very Hedges and Land are well stored with Apples and Pear-trees, and their fragrant blushing Colour invites the wandering Travellers to refresh himself with their most Wholesome Juices: And as Concerning this County in General, the Towns stands thick together in most parts of this County, and so 'tis populous; the Houses numerous, and well built, the Churches fair and handsome and so 'tis honourable; but that which is one of the greatest Blessings of all is, the River Severn; there is not any River in all our Nation for its Channel broader, for a Stream Swifter, and for Variety of Fish better stocked, though sometimes it overflows the Banks, and when it hath roved a great way it retires back again, as it were, triumphing over the Conquest of the Land. This River Severn, or Sabrina, was so called from [Page 103] Sabenia, a fair Lady, concerning whom there goes this Story; Loarnie, the eldest Son of Brutus, who came first into Britain, took to Wife the Daughter of the Duke of Cornwall, but notwithstanding this he kept a very beautiful Mistriss, and by her he had a Daughter, whom he named Sabenia; whereupon he grew so enamoured of her, that after the Death of his Father-in-law, the Duke of Cornwall, he put a way his Lawful-Wife, and Wedded his Mistriss; his Wife was so extreamly netled at this, that she immediately repaired into Cornwall, and made her Complaint there amongst her Friends and Relations, and having gathered a great Power to revenge her Injury, she fought with her Husband Loarine, and Slew him, and buried him at Trynobant, or London, afterwards executed her Revenge still in the highest Degree: She took the Lady, with her fair Daughter Sabenia too, and drowned them both in this River. The first place of Note we came to in this County was the City of
GLOCESTER. This City is well seated, and as well inhabited, and of a considerable Trade by reason of the Severn, which being Navigable, Boats of great Burden come up to their Key side loaded with several Commodities. 'Tis governed by a Mayor and Aldermen, and is adorned with several [Page 104] fair Churches, amongst which the Cathedral is the chief and most glorious, Erected by Alfred, Archbishop of York and Bishop of Worcester, it hath been, by the charity of good Benefactors, much enlarged. King Edward the Second lies here Interred under a Monument of Alablaster, and in the Quire under a wooden painted Tomb lies Robert, the Eldest Son of William the Conqueror, who was deprived both of his Life and Kingdom by his younger Brother. Here is likewise to be seen the Monument of Lucius, the first Christian King that ever was in England, about the Year 179. The Pillars of this Church are of an extraordinary thickness, scarce to be parallel'd in any Church in England; but that which makes it more remarkable, is a place at the East end of the Quire called The Whispering-place, 'tis a Pentagone-Arch in the from of a Semicircle 30 Yards in circuit, and so rare a piece of Art, That if any Person stands at one end of it, and whispers never so softly, he that lays his Ear to the other end will discover distinctly the Words he speaks. Then next Town of Note we went to was
TEWKSBURY, a Market-Town of good Note, and of a great Trade for Cloth and Stockins. 'Tis situated amongst the pleasant Rivers, Severn on the one side enricheth it, on the other side Avon, and another small [Page 105] River which comes from the East, over each whereof stands Bridges which give entrance into it. It hath been counted famous for the great Battel fought here between the House of York and Lancaster utterly Subverted; In the Reign of King Henry the Third, there is a story of a Jew that lived in this Town Recorded, That falling into a Jakes, or Privy, on the Sabbath, or Saterday, by no means, for Reverence of that Day, suffer any Helping-hands to come and pluck him out of that unpleasant Hole, whereupon the then Earl of Gloucester having some Intilligence of his refractory Sullenness, gave a strick Charge that no one should dare to take him out on the Sunday, for the Reverence of that Day, and so the poor Circumsized-Wrecth perished in that most Loathsom Dugeon through his own folly. This was about the year 1259. The next place of note we went to was
CICITER, which the River Ornus, or Churne, Rising amongst the Woods near Corbely, is very commodious for Mills. This Place doth appear to have been of great Antiquity and Renown, The Brittish Chronicles shew that this Town was burnt, being set on fire by a Company of Sparrows through an Invention devised by on Gurmund; certain it is, that the Inhabitans shew a Mount below the Town which they report this Gurmund did cast up, they corruptly call it Gurmund's [Page 106] Tower. Hear is likewise to be seen some ruinated Wall of an old Abby; 'tis now beautified with a very handsome Church having a high spired Steeple, and a Market once a week. Many other things are very observeable, which will be too tedious to relate. We went from hence to
FAIREFORD, a place well known for its curious Church-Windows, in which are most rarely pourtrayed in Painted-glass, the whole history of the Bible. From hence we went into
Oxfordshire.
Which being once entered into, we could not sufficiently enough admire the pleasantness of the Soil: There it is that Cerces bestowes her Gifts most Liberally upon the Labours of Husband-men: There it is that the Meadowes are garnished with variety of Plants, allure and intice the industrious and studious Herbalists into a more strict Inquiry of Names, Natures and Properties there; 'tis where the Hills are adorned with shady Woods, and afford most delightful Bows to the waried Students, whilst the Silver-stream'd-Rivers with their Murmures nimbly coursing along, do whet their fancies, and screw up their Intellectuals to the highest pitch. The first Town of Note we came to in this County was.
Burford.
Is a Town of good Note, situated, as it were, on the side of a Hill very pleasantly, and if we will give Credit to ancient Records, 'tis storied, That Cuthred, King of the West Saxons, when he was no longer able to bear the severe Tributes and Exactions of Ethelbeld, King of the Mercians, who did most cruelly oppress him, and began to suck the very Blood and Marrow of his Subjects, came into the Field against him, and in a pitcht Battle routed him totally, taking from him his Banners on which was painted a golden Dragon, and so raised his Subjects from their Tributary-Vassalage. The next place we came to was.
OXFORD, a Ford for Oxen to pass over, as is called by the Germans, Oxhenfurt. It hath a most healthy Air, and commodious situation, and is well adorned with private Structures, as also with goodly and magnificent Colleges and Halls, and is thought, by Antiquaries, to have been a place of publick Study before the learned Saxon King Alfred's time, who very much angmented it out of his Princely Favour and Love to Learning and Religion. It boasts in Univesity-College, founded, at first, by King Alfred, afterwards re-edified by William, Arch-Deacon of Durham, or, as others write, by William, [Page 108] Bishop of Durham, in the Twelfth Year of William the Conqueror, and of New-College, built by William of Wickham, Bishop of Winchester, and the Magnificence Christ Church, erected by Cardinal Woolsey in the Reign of Henry the Eighth. This City is adorned with 22 Colleges, besides the curious Fabrick of the Schools, and the admirable Sructure of the Theatre, built at the sole Cost and Charges of the most Reverend Father in God, Gilbert, late Lord-Archbishop of Canterbury; the famous Library, not much inferiour to the Vatican at Rome; the delightful Physick-Garden, replenished with divers both of Foreign and Domestick Plants, surrounded with a strong stone Wall at the sole Expence of the Right Honourable Henry, Earl of Danby, together with all the Customs, Privileges, Offices and Dignities, which are already elegantly set forth by the ingenious Author of the Present State of England: And as concerning the South side of this County, What can be more pleasant than Thamiss? branching it self forth into several Veins, gives refreshment to several parts of this County; at last, by several Turnings and Windings, lodgeth it self again in its natural Couse. We went from hence to.
DORCHESTER. It seems to be a Town of great Antiquity, and is credibly reported that this was formerly a Bishop's see, [Page 109] which was Transplanted from this place to Lincoln by William the Conqueror's dislike, that the Bishop's Seat stood in so small a City, from which time it began to decline into a low and mean Condition, and is now only famous for its venerable Relicts and Ruins, and for the mutable Union of the two noted Rivers Tama aud Isis, which here unanimously embrace each other. From hence we went to Hendly, in this County, of which it follows.
HENDLY, which the Thames, after it hath fetch'd a handsome compass, enricheth with its silver streams, the Inhabitants herein being most of them Bargemen, and get good Livelihoods by carrying of Corn and Wood out of the neighbouring Counties to London; there is now a very large and strong Timber-bridge over the River, which, they say, was formerly arched, and of Stone, but whether this be the Bridge that the Romans went over, when Casar pursued the Britains who fled into these Parts, is hard to determine; however it is very probable that this was the place. We went from hence into.
Buckinghamshire, or Bucks.
Which might possibly be so called from Beech-trees, there being such great plenty in that County; or likely from a Country in [Page 110] Germany called Buchonia, from its great plenty of those kind of Trees. The County generally is of a plentiful Soil, and passing full of Inhabitants, who chiefly employ themselves in grazing of Cattle. There is store of Mutton and Beef.
WICKHAM, or Weicombe, situated above a pleasent Valley, by which runs a-long the Currant of a small Rivolet, and possibly from this situation it might take its Name, for Combe, in the Saxon Language, signifies a Valley, and Wick, any Turning or Winding of a River or Sea. 'Tis a Town for Largeness and Buildings not much inferiour to any throughout the Shire, and hath a Mayor and Aldermen. It is a place well known for the abundance of Bone-lace that is made here, which brings good Advantage and Profit to the Inhabitants. The next Town we arrived at was.
BEACONSFIELD, a Town better known for that it was formerly the Inhabitants by Succession to the Lord Scudamore, than for any thing it contains in it self. We tarried not long here, but went to.
UXBRIDGE, formerly called WOXBRIDGE, a Town built of latter times, and well stored with Inns. We past from hence to see some part of Harfordshire and Bedfordshire, which Counties we found very rich in Corn and Cattle; but in relation to these [Page 111] Counties, and their renowned Towns of Bedford, Dunstable, and St. Albans, and divers other Towns, they having been so well set forth by others, I shall forbear mentioning them. We went to.
WARE in Hartfordshire, where we tarried two Nights. This Town, according to Writers, was built by Edward the Second, King of the West Saxons, in the Year 914. 'Tis wartered by the River Ley, and hath a great Market for all sorts of Grain; it is populous, and well Inhabited by Persons of very good Quality, and lying in the great Road to London, is frequented constantly by Persons of all Degrees; and altho' Hartford be the Eye of the County, 'tis now inferiour to this place; but the most remarkable thing in Ware is the New-River, or Aqueduct, conveyed above 20 Miles together in a continued Channel from this Place to Islington, from whence the Water thereof is dispersed in Pipes laid a-lond in the ground for that purpose, into abundance of Streets, Lanes, Courts and Alleys of this City and Suburbs of London; the great Contrivance whereof all the Citizens have daily Experience, and ought to immortalize the Name of their Inventor Sir Hugh Middleton, who bestowed this most excellent Gift upon them, and Consummated this good Work so useful and beneficial to the City at his own proper Cost [Page 112] and Charges. I have not mention'd the County of Surrey distinctly as yet, and indeed, had almost forgot it, but I will give some brief relation of it, tho' not in its proper place.
Surrey.
From the West it boundeth partly upon Barkshire and Hantshire; from the South upon Sussex; and from the East on Kent; towards the North it is watered with the River Thames, and by it divided from Middlesex.
It is a County not very large, yet wealthy enough, where it beareth upon Thames, and lieth as a plain and champion Country.
FERNHAM, so named of much Fern growing in that place.
GUILFORD, a Market Town well frequented, and full of fair Innes.
KINGSTONE, a very good Market Town for the bigness, and well frequented. It had begining from a little Town more ancient than it of the same name, in which, when England was almost ruinated by the Danish Wars, Aethelstan, Edwin and Ethelstred were crowned Kings upon an open stage in the Market place, whence it was called Kingstone.
SHENE, so called of its shining brightness, now Richmond, wherein the most mighty Prince, King Edward the Third, when [Page 113] he had lived sufficiently both to glory and nature, died.
King Henry the Seventh built it, and gave it that name of Richmond, of the Title he bore, being Earl of Richmond, before he obtain'd the Crown of England. He had scarce finished this new work, when in this place he yeilded unto Nature, and ended his Life. Here Queen Elizabeth also died.
CROIDON, there was the Archbishop's House of Canterbury: There are Charcoles.
LAMBETH, Canutus, the Hardy King of England, there amidst his Cups yeilded up his vital Breath. It is the Palace of the Archbishop of Canterbury.
This County hath in it an hundred and forty Parish Churches.
I have been both in North and South Wales, of which other Pens have already set forth, so that I do not intend to deliver any thing to the Publick that hath been already set forth by others, but only give a short Account of several things very observable, not yet set forth by any.
WALES.
Flintshire.
THe Air is healthful, without any Fogs or Fenny-Vapours, and the People generally are very Aged and hearty. The Snow lies here very long upon the Hills; the County affords great plenty of Cattel, but they are small; Millstones are also digged up in these Parts, as well as in Anglesey. Towards the River Dee the Fields bears, in some places, Barley, in others Wheat, but generally throughout Rye, with very great encrease, and especially the first Year of their breaking up their Land, and afterward two or three Crops together of Oats.
Holy-Well, or St. Winifrid's-Well.
This County is most remarkable for a little Village called Holy-Well, where is the Well of St. Winifrid, so famous for the strange Cures which have been wrought by the Vertue of it, as it is supposed; the Water hereof is extream cold, and hath likewise a very great Stream that flows from it, which is presently able to drive a Mill; the Stones which are at bottom being of a sanguine colour, are believed to receive that colour from the Drops of Blood which trickled [Page 115] down from her Body, when she was here beheaded, by the bloody Tyrant that would have ravished her, and the Moss which grows upon the sides, and bears a very fragrant Smell, is averred to have been the product of her Hair, though I find, by some we brought away with us, that in process of time it loseth all its sweetness. Over the Well stands a Chappel dedicated to her built of Stone, after a curious manner, to which, formerly, was much resorting by Pilgrims, who came hither out of blind Devotion, and the generality of the Commonalty hereabouts do believe, That this Martyred-Virgin, and the great Miracle that was wrought by St. Benno, who restored her to life again, as they say, by claping on her head immediately, after it was cut off, upon her Shoulders, which Relation those Inhabitants thereabouts do verily believe to be true. So having made some small stay here, in which time we conversed with the Welshmen, and gathered up a true Account of this County, which was as follows.
Radnorshire.
In the East and South parts thereof 'tis more fruitful than the rest, but is uneven and rough with Mountains, yet it is well stored with Woods, watered with running Rivers, and, in some places, with standing [Page 116] Pools; the Air is very cold and sharp, because the Snow lying long unmelted under the shady Hills and hanging Rocks, whereof there are many, and upon the Borders of it which lies next to Herefordshire, runs a-long a famous Ditch, which Offa, King of the Mercians, with great toil and labour caused to be cast up from Dee mouth to Wye mouth, for the space of 90 Miles, to separate the Britains from the English: Several other things there are very observable, which are too tedious to relate.
Brecknockshire.
Lies beneath Radnorshire. It is thick with Hills, and fruitful in the Valleys.
MOUNTH-DENNY, three Miles from Brecknock, is a Hill so called, that hath its top above the Clouds, and if a Cloak, or Hat, or the like, be thrown from the top of it, it will never fall, but be blown up again, nor will any thing descend but Stones or Mettals, or things as heavy.
LYNSARATHAN-MERE, two Miles East from the same place is a Mere called Lynsarathan, which (as the People dwelling there say) was once a City, but the whole City was swallowed up by an Earthquake, and this Water, or Lake, succeeded in the place; they say likewise, That at the end of Winter, when aftr a long Frost, and the Ice of this Lake breaks, it makes a fearful noise [Page 117] like Thunder, possibly because the Lake is encompassed with high steep Hills which pen in the sound, and multiply it; or else the ground may be hollow underneath, or near the Lake.
LIVENNY-River. Through this Lake runs a River called Livenny, without mixture of its Waters, as may be perceived both by the Colour of the Water, and also by the Quantity of it, because it is no greater afterwards, than when it entered the Lake.
CADIER-ARTHUR, or Arthur's Chair, a Hill so called on the South side of this County; from the Tops resembling the form of a Chair, proportionate to the Demensions of that great and mighty Person; upon the top whereof riseth a Spring as deep as a Well, four square, having no Streams issuing from it, and yet there are plenty of Trouts to be found therein.
Glamorganshire.
Hath a temperate Air, and is generally the most pleasant part of all South Wales.
MINYD-MORGAN Hill. On the top of a certain Hill so called, is a Monument with a strange Character, which the Inhabitants thereabouts say, if any Man read the same, he shall die shortly after.
[Page 118] The Springs by Newton. Upon the River Ogmore, and near to Newton, in a sandy Plain, is a Well, the Water whereof is not very clear, in which, at full Sea in Summer-time, can hardly any Water be took up, but at the Ebb it bubbleth up amain; in Summer-time, I say, for in the Winter the Ebbing and Flowing is nothing near so evident, because of the Veins of Water coming in by Showers, or otherwise; besides it is observed, this Spring never riseth up to the top brink, or over-floweth.
ABERBARRY Cave. There is in this Shire a Cave so called, under the bottom of a Hill, and on the top of it a gaping Chinck, where, many times, is heard as it were a Musical-noise, and sometimes other very strange Noises, which is very observable for all Travellers to take notice of.
LANDAFF, a small Town, but of good Repute in that it is a Bishop's See, and adorned with a Catheral-Church.
Carmardenshire.
A most hilly Country, yet it hath a wholsome Air, and though the Soil be not very fruitful in Corn, 'tis well stored with Cattel, and in some places yeilds very good Pit-coal for Fuel: On the South side, the Ocean hath with so great violence encroached upon the Land, that the Country seems to have shrunk [Page 119] back in a fright, and withdrawn it self more inwardly for security.
The Cave and Well near Carreg-Castle. Near Carreg-Castle are many Undermines, or Caves of very great wideness within the ground, now covered all over with Green-sword and Turf, wherein, it is probable, the Multitude unable to bear Arms, when the Normans made their first Incursion into these Parts, hid themselves during the heat of the War: There is also a Well that, like the Sea, Ebbs and Flows twice in 24 hours.
Pembrokeshire.
Hath a good temperate Air, considering it lies so near to Ireland; the Inhabitants are many of them Dutchmen, but by their Manners and Language they are much like the English, that upon this Account this County is called Little England beyond Wales.
In the Rocks of this Shire there breeds a rare kind of Falcon which is thus described, The Head is flat and low, the Feathers laid in rows, the Legs pale and wan, the Claws slender and wide spread, hooked round.
About 300 Years a-go, it was reported, That for five Generations, the Father of the Family in the Earldom of Pembroke, their Name was Hastings, never saw his Son.
At the time when Henry the Second made his Abode in Ireland, there were extraordinary [Page 120] violent and lasting Storms of Wind and Weather, so that the Sandy-shoar on the Coasts of this Shire were laid bare to the very hard ground, which had lain hid for many Ages, and by farther search the People found great Truncks of Trees, which when they were digged up were apparently lopped, so that they might see the Stroaks of the Ax upon them, as if they had been given not long before; the Earth looked very black, and the Wood of these Truncks altogether like Ebony, as the Inhabitants informed us. At the first discovery made of these Storms, the Trees, we spake of, lay so thick, that the whole Shoar seemed nothing but a lopped Grove; from whence may be gathered, That the Sea hath over-flowed much Land on this Coast, as it had upon the Shoar of many Countries bordering upon the Sea.
The Salmon's-Leap at Kilgarran. About Kilgarran are abundance of Salmons taken, and there is a place called The Salmon's-Leap, as there is also in other Rivers, for this reason, The Salmon coveteth to get into fresh-water Rivers to Spawn, and when he comes from places where the Water falls down-right almost perpendicular, as some such like Places there be, he useth this Policy, He bends himself backwards, and takes his Tail in his Mouth, and with all his force unloosing his Circle, on a sudden with a smart [Page 121] Let-go, he mounteth up before the Fall of the Stream; and therefore these down-right Falls are called The Salmon's Leaps.
St. DAVIDS is in this County, formerly an Arch-Bishop's See: There is a Cathedral, erected in the Time of King John, and near unto it stands the Bishop's Palace, and several other Houses belonging the Bishop's See, all enclosed round with a Wall, whereupon they call it The Close.
Cardiganshire.
Being a hilly Mountainous County like the rest of Wales, was not formerly planted or garnished with Towns, but little Cottages, as may be gathered by that Speech of their Prince, who being taken Prisoner and carried to Rome, after he had throughly viewed the Magnificence of that City, What mean you, said he, when you have such stately Buildings of your own, to covet our poor small Cottages?
Many other things here might be mentioned in relation to this County, but I must omit them by reason I have not room enough.
Montgomeryshire.
In this Shire there is nothing more observable than its excellent Breed of Horses, which (as I have been informed) are of most excellent Shapes and strong Limbs, and incomparable for Stoutness.
[Page 122] The Hill Plim-limmon. It raiseth it self up to a wonderful height, and on that part where it boundeth on part of this Shire it poureth forth the Severn, the greatest River in Britain next the Thames, as likewise in the other parts of it riseth the River Wye, and the River Rideal.
The Hill Cerdon. Upon Cerdon Hill are placed certain Stones, in a round Circle like a Coronet, in all probability, to commemorate some notable Victory: In this County are several old Castles, and other things very observable.
Merionethshire.
The Air may be wholsome, but the Soil is very barren, for 'tis exceeding full of spired Hills, being the most mountainous place in Wales (except Caernarvonshire) upon which account it is subject to many and extraordinary great Winds.
The Pool near Bala. Near Bala is a great Pool of Water that drowns, at least, 200 Acres of ground, whose Nature is such, as they say, That the Highland Floods cannot make this Pool swell bigger though never so great; but if the Air be troubled with violent Tempests of Wind, it riseth above the Banks: The River Dee runs into with a swift Stream, and glides through it without mixture of Water, for in this Pool [Page 123] is bred a sort of Fish which are never seen in Dee, and in Dee River, Salmons are taken which are never found in this Pool. Upon the Sea-Coasts of this County, great store of Herrings are taken at time of Year, and upon the West side of it the Sea beats so sore and hard, that it is thought it has carried away part of it.
Caernarvonshire.
In this County the Air is sharp and piercing, and in it are the highest Hills in Wales, on some of which the Snow lies long, and on others all the Year long, hard crushed together. 'Tis affirmed likewise, That on the high Hills of this Shire are two Meres, one of which produceth Fish that have but one Eye, and the other a floating Island: I do not verifie the truth of this, because I think it meer Fables.
SNOWDEN-HILLS, altho' they have always Snow lying upon them, yet they are exceeding rank with Grass, insomuch that they are become a Proverb amongst the Welshmen, That those Mountains will yeild sufficient Pasture for all the Cattle in Wales, if they were put upon them together; and 'tis certain that there are Pools and standing Waters upon the top of these Mountains, and they are so coated with a snowy Crust that lies on them, That if a Man does but lightly set [Page 124] his foot any where upon the top of them, he shall perceive the Earth to stir for several Foot from him, which probably might occasion the Story of the floating Island before mentioned.
PEN-NEANMOUR, The great stony Head, a Hill so called in this County. It is an exceeding high and steep Rock, which hanging over the Sea when it is Flood, afordeth a very narrow Way for Passengers, having on the one side huge Stones over your heads, as if they were ready to fall upon you, and on the other side the raging Ocean lying off a wonderful steep depth under it; but after a Man hath passed over this, together with Pen-mean-Lythan, The less story Head, he shall come to an open broad Plain that reacheth as far as the Conway, in which are bred a sort of Shell-fish, which being Conceived of an Heavenly-dew, as is conjectured, bring forth Pearl.
BANGOR-PENCHOR, so called, is also in is this County, a Bishop's See; the Church was Consecrated to Daniel, Bishop hereof, but that which is now standing is but a mean Structure; for Owen Glender, that notorious Rebel, who designed to destroy all the Cities in Wales, set it on fire, because the Inhabitants of this Place chose rather to side with the King of England than with him: Hereupon the ancient Church being defaced, [Page 125] Henry Denry, Bishop hereof, did afterwards, repair it, about the Reign of Henry the Seventh, as we were credibly inform'd by the Inhabitants,
Anglesey.
In this Island (which is computed to be in compass 85 Miles, or thereabout) are frequently found and digged up in the lower Grounds, Bodies of huge Trees with their Roots, and Firr-tres of a wonderful bigness and length, which Trees, some believe, were cut down by the Romans, as the Inhabitants do say, That when the Romans had Conquered this Island, they caused all the Woods to be cut down and destroyed. This Island was in time past, full of Woods and Timber but instead thereof now it yeildeth plenty of Corn, Sheep and Cattle. The Air is indifferently healthful in most parts of it; here are likewise great store of Mill-stones and Grind-stones, and in some places a sort of Earth of which they make Allum and Copperas; also it yeilds such plenty of Wheat, that it seems to be deserving of the Title of, The Mother of Wales.
Denbighshire.
The Air is cold, but very wholsome; the Snow lies long on the Hills, being a hilly Country, the high Hills resembling the Battlements of Walls.
MOILENLLY-hill is the highest Hill in this Shire, having a Spring of very clear Water upon the top of it.
WREXHAM in this County is about 16 Miles from Holy-well, and is much admired for its Church-steeple, being a very curious Fabrick, contrived according to the most exact Draught and Models of Architecture, no where to be parallel'd in those parts for Workmanship, of which taking some small view, we passed into Shropshire, of which I have already made mention.
I having already given a Relation of most of the Shires in Wales, and omitted Monmouthshire, of which I could not in honour to the County pass by without a Visit, so staying at Hereford some days, we set a-part some time to go see Monmouth, of which it follows.
Monmouth.
We found the Ways near Monmouth hard and rugged, and that Town to be environed with Hills on all Sides, the Ruins of its Walls and Castle argue its Antiquity. It hath a fair Church and Market-place, with [Page 127] a Hall for the Assizes and Sessions. 'Tis governed by a Mayor, Recorder and Aldermen, and the Inhabitants do generally speak both the Welsh and English Tongue: They told us there, of great Immunities and Privileges granted to them by the House of Lancaster, but for no other thing is it so much renowned, as that it was first the Native place, and gave Breath to Henry the Fifth, that Scourge of the French, and glorious Pillar of the English Nation, who Conquered Charles the Sixth King of France, and all his Army, and made him surrender up his Crown unto him, and Acknowledge him the triumphant Conqueror: Here we were entertained with no other Objects but what the stony Rocks, the dangerous Clifts, the towring Mountains, and craggy Precipices did afford us, being now and then covered with Flocks of Sheep, and Herds of Goats; the Inhabitants told us, That upon the Black Mountain there, as they call it, or thereabouts, are some Hills so high, whose Tops are so sharp, that two Persons may stand upon two different Points thereof and discourse with one another, and understand each other very well, although they must be forced to go some Miles before they can embrace each other, but the truth of this I will not averr; certain I am▪ there are many of them of so unconceivable a height, [Page 128] and so steep an Ascent, that they seem, as it were, Nature's Stair-cases, by which we may climb up to some higher Region, and have Entercourse with the Inhabitants of the Moon.
Thus have I given a true and faithful Relation of my Travels over England and Wales, but cannot much commend the latter for their Cookery, yet for their Linen it was indifferent sweet and clean: I could have mentioned several other things, but what has been spoke of is most material.