The LOƲVRE.

Historians say that this Palace was first found­ed by Philip Augustus in the year 1214. Who made the great Tower, in which Ferrand Earl of Flanders was kept Prisoner after that King had won the famous Battel of Bouvines; in which the Earl who had Revolted from King Philip was made a Captive. This Tower was standing in [Page 7] the last Age, and had served not only to keep the Kings Treasure, but also had been built to receive therein the Homage and Oath of Fidelity of those who held Lands of the Crown; or rather, as one may presume, it was the Seige Seigneurial (or Head of a Tenure) upon which several Fiefs did depend. For it is well known that our Ancestors had a custom always to build in their Châteaux (or Chief Seats) a great Tower, and to raise up­on that another lesser, which they called the Don­ [...]on, this they esteemed the Mark of a Seigneurie; and without doubt this Tower at the Louvre was of the same nature. It was taken down when Francis the First began that building which at present is called the old Louvre. But Death hin­dred that Prince from performing much of what he intended. Henry the Second his Son, carried on the building after the designs of his Father, and for the performance he made use of the Ab­bot of Clugny, and John Gougeon, both Parisi­ans and the ablest Architects of their Time, since those few things which we see of theirs pass for the most regular and finest Architecture of the World. They were preferred to the illustrious Sebastian Sorlio, who was expresly sent for from Italy, but had the displeasure to see his designs not followed. In the Hall of the hundred Swisses we see a kind of Tribune of the Workmanship of this John Gougeon, it is supported by four Caria­tides, of a Design so regular and so well contri­ved that M. Perrault of the Royal Academy of Sciences hath caused it to be engraved and inserted in the Translation of the Works of Vitruvius, where he hath proposed it as a compleat Model. The following Inscription Henry II. set over one of the Gates.

Lewis the 13th. whose Designs were always Great and Magnificent, caused to be built the Great Pavilion which is over the Entrance. The Sieur Mercier had the charge of that work, in which he followed the first design and form. But being forced to raise his Work higher than the Bo­dy of the Building, upon the Corinthian and Composite orders, he added a Cariatide Order in imitation of that in the Hall of the 100: Swisses aforementioned, upon which he placed a double Fronton. The old Gate of the Louvre is under this Pavillion, the Roof of which is supported by two Ranks of Ionick Pillars of one piece, pla­ced two and two, and are extreme remarkable for their bigness. The Court in the middle of this building is great and exactly square. The King hath raised three Wings which are not yet finished. The Work consists of three Ranks of Pillars, Corinthian and Composite; the top is in the manner of a Terrasse, which appears of a Beauty most magnificently surprising. The great [Page 9] Gate is on that side next to St. Germain l'Auxer­rois placed in the middle of a long Façade (or Front of Building) adorn'd with Corinthian Pil­lars two and two of a most beautiful greatness, which standing off from the rest of the Work make a great Portico on each side of the Gate, on which stands the Fronton composed only of two Stones, of one piece, each of which is fifty foot in length; a great Terrasse runs on the top of this Façade, from which one may discover all Paris. In the old Louvre, many things are to be seen.

The Cabinet of Pictures.

The place where the Kings Pictures are kept, is in an Apartment near the end of the great Gal­lery. It is difficult to find more in number or more rare pieces in any part of Europe than are in this place. Here are some of all the most fa­mous Masters of Italy and Flanders and other parts; all which the King hath caused to be gra­ved, of which there are two great Volumes ex­tant; but of late years they have removed a great part of these Paintings to Versailles to adorn that magnisick Palace. Yet there still remain several of diverse Masters, among others the last Supper of Paul Veronnese, a Picture of an extraordina­ry greatness, so are the Battels of Monsieur l' Brun, from which they have made several Pieces of cu­rious Tapestry. The Paintings of Pousin are here preserved with care, as are also those of several other French Masters, of which he is the Chief without dispute.

[Page 10] They are continually working in Sculpture in two several places of the Louvre. M. Girardon hath his Work-house under the Cabinet of Pi­ctures where you may see some Statues which he hath finished for Versailles, those that are in the Grotto there, were made in this place; here you may see the Model of Cardinal Richelieu's Tomb, which is to be erected in the Church of the Sor­bonne.

At the end of the Court that lies before the Gate under the Pavillion on that side next the Ruë Saint Honorè, you ought to view the Sta­tues which are to be placed on the Tomb of Monsieur de Turenne which the King hath caused to be erected for him at St. Denys. You may also there observe several other curious pieces, which are all of the design and invention of Mon­sieur de Mercy one of the best Statuaries of the Kingdom. He is at present about certain figures intended for the Tomb of Monsieur the Duke of Noailles at St. Pauls. The Sieur Renaudin hath also his Work-house near that of M. Girardon, which ought to be seen by the Curious.

But above all we ought not to neglect before we leave the Louvre to visit the Hall, wherein the Gentlemen of the French Academy assemble, whom the King honours with so particular a Pro­tection, that he is willing to have them in his own Palace. This Illustrious Academy is com­posed of learned Persons who take continual pains in perfecting the French Tongue, and meet three times a Week. The names of the present Mem­bers of this Society, are

• [Page 11]M. de Besons, Counsellor of State.
• M. Corneille.
• M. Doujat.
• M. Charpentier.
• M. The Abbot Tallement, chief Almoner to Madame
• M. The Duke of Coislin.
• M. The Abbot Pelisson' Master of the Re­quests.
• M. The Bishop of Acs.
• M. The Cardinal d'Estrées.
• M. de Renoüard de Villayer, Counsellor of State.
• M. The Abbot de Furetieres.
• M. de Segrais.
• M. le Clerc.
• M. The Duke of St. Aignan.
• M. le Comte de Bussy.
• M. The Abbot Testu.
• M. The Abbot Tallement, Prior of St. Al­bin.
• M. Boyer.
• M. The Marquess d'Angeau, Governor of Touraine.
• M. The Abbot Regnier des Marais.
• M. The Abbot de la Chambre.
• M. Quinaut Auditor of the Accounts.
• M The Arch-Bishop of Paris.
• M. the Bishop of Meaux, formerly Precep­tor to Monseigneur the Dauphin, and chief Almoner to Madame the Dauphi­ness.
• M. Perault, Comptroller of the Buildings.
• M. The Abbot Fléchier, Almoner to Ma­dame the Dauphiness.
• M. Racine, Treasurer of France.
• [Page 12] M. The Abbot Gallois.
• M. de Benserarde.
• M. The Abbot Huet, formerly Under-pre­ceptor to Monseigneur the Dauphin.
• M. Roze, Secretary of the Kings Cabinet.
• M. Cordemoy, Reader to Monseigneur the Dauphin.
• M. The President de Mesme.
• M. The Abbot Colbert, Coadjutor of Roüen.
• M. The Abbot de Lavau, Library-keeper of the Kings Cabinet.
• M. Verjus, Plenipotentiary at the Dyet of Ratisbone.
• M. de Novion, first President of the Parlin­ment of Paris.
• M. The Abbot Danjau.
• M. Barbier de Haucour.
• M. .....

Every other year on the Feast-day of S. Lewis, they give here two Medals of Gold, for Prizes, the one in Eloquence, the other in Poetry, on which account a great number of Persons at such times bring in their Compositions in both kinds, in order to obtain the Reward. The same day all the Members of the Academy procure a Mass to be sung in Musick, after which a Panegyrick of St. Lewis is pronounced by some able Preacher. Monsieur the Abbot Pelisson has composed the History of the French Academy, and writ it af­ter such a polite and delightsom manner, that his Book passes for one of the finest and best things in the French Language. They have some Pi­ctures in their Hall; one of the Holy Virgin; another of the King in his [...]oronation habit; the Picture of Cardinal Richelieu Founder of the [Page 13] French Academy, that of the Chancellor Seguier who after the death of the Cardinal became its Protector, and in fine, another of Queen Chri­stina of Swedeland, who came to these Assem­blies, where she shewed her extraordinary Genius for all curious things.

We cross over here and pass into a Hall where we may see two Models made for the great Stair­case of the Louvre, the fairest of which was made by the famous Mansard, the other by M. du Veau, he who made the designs for the New Buildings at Vin [...]ennes, but the first of these excells the other infinitely for the Grandeur of the gust and hardiness of design.

In the old Tenis-Conrt, in the middle of the Court they are at work about the Model of a Sta­tue of the King on Horseback, raised on the top of a Rock with his Enemies subdued at his feet, and four Rivers with their Urns who seem ama­zed to see this great Monarch arrived to the highest step of Glory. Nothing can be greater than this Work; and if it be performed according to the de­sign, all Europe cannot shew a more magnisick Monument. It is of M. Girardons designing.

The Gard-Meuble or Repository of the Kings Moveables.

On the Bank of the River at the Corner of the Street des Poulies is the Garde-Meuble in an Old house which was formerly called the Hôrel du pe­tit Bourbon, in regard the Princes of that Family dwelt there. The outside has no fine shew, but [Page 14] it is within this place that they preserve the preci­ous moveables of the Crown; here one may see a Surprizing quantiy of Tapestry both anci­ent and Modern, here are some pieces which Francis I. caused to be made after the Designs of Julio Romano, and which were wrought at Anuers by a famous Master of that time who had an extraordinary Reputation. These pieces re­present the Acts of the Apostles, and the History of Scipio the Great. This King hath caused a­bundance to be made at the Gobelins, enriched with Gold and Silver, after the designs of M. le Brun, of which he hath no less than 24000 Ells; not reckoning a great Footcloath in the manner of Turky-work, which is working in a place built on purpose at the end of the Cours d [...] la Reine, commonly called the Savonnerie, which is to be the full length of the great Gallery of the Louvre, but is not yet finisht. Together with these you may see abundance of Vessels of Precious Stones, as Agat, Onix, Jacinth, Cornelian, Christal of the Rock, admirable as well for their Size as Workmanship, several Branches of Coral, but one among the rest very great, and black as Ebo­ny, which is extremely rare: Small Cabinets of Chrystal of the Rock, and of Amber garnished with Gold and Jewels. But that which is most observable is a great Ship of Gold inriched with Diamonds, of most curious Workmanship, made by the Sieur Balin, and valued at one hun­dred thousand Crowns. After this you may see the Vessels of Massie Silver consisting of divers Basons, upon which the History of this King is cut in Chis [...]l-work, they are of such weight, that it requires the strength of two men to bear 'em upon a kind of Handbarrows made of the same [Page 15] metal and workmanship. Here are also Tables, Stands, Looking-glass Frames, Branches for Can­dles, extraordinary great, Orangers, two great Tubs of Silver which served at the Baptism of Monseigneur the Dauphin, Branches to set upon Stands, Chenets, Cassolets or perfuming-pots, and generally all Sorts of Goldsmiths work for their weight as well as workmanship to be admi­red; most of which things were wrought by the famous Monsieur Balin, of whom I have alrea­dy made some mention. He was the chief Artist of this Age for Silver Work, and died about five or six years since. They shew here also Embroi­dered Beds, extreme Rich, with Hangings for Alcoues of the same fashion. You may see in the same place the Cup-board of Francis I. of certain pieces of Silver gilt, very well wrought. In another Room, apart, they preserve a great quantity of curious Arms of all sorts, among others the Armour of Francis I. which he wore at the Battel of Pavie, where one may discern on the cuirasse the Blows which he received before he would yield himself a Prisoner to the Spani­ards, to whom he dearly sold his Liberty. There is also a Fusil or small Gun which the City of Paris presented to Monseigneur the Dauphin, and which is here preserved because it was the first Fire-Arms he ever shot in. In fine, the Curious, and all others, may here find rarities enough to satisfie their eye, for beside the singular Beauty of the Work, one may here see a mighty quantity of Gold and Silver, which is a very great entertainment to such who are apt to be dazled with the Splen­dor of the metal and consider that, more than the excellency of the Work. Of late the King hath caused the finest things in the Garde-Meuble [Page 16] to be removed to Versailles, yet still there remains a great number that are well worth see­ing.

The Palace of the Tuilleries.

Having seen these things you ought to go next to the Palace of the Tuilleries, which extends it self along the Garden in one continued Line; it is composed at the ends of two great square Pa­vilions adorned with Pilasters of the Composite Order, and of one great Pavilion, like a Dome, in the middle, under which is the great Hall and Stair-case that leads to the Apartments. It is to be observed that the middle of this Building, namely the great Pavilion, the two Terrasses, and the two lesser Pavilions at the Ends, were built at the char­ges of Katharine de Medicis, who was very skil­ful in Architecture, as we perceive by these Buil­dings, which are all of a most curious proportion after the Ionick and Corinthian Orders, there are three Ranks of Pillars, with an Attick over head. For this work she employed Philibert de Lorme and John Bulan, the prime Masters of their Age. The rest of the Buildings were performed by Henry IV. and Lewis XIV. who in our days hath repaired this Palace as we now see it. There stood once under the Pavilion in the middle, a great Stair-case, which was one of the finest things of its kind in the whole World, for its disposition, and for the strange boldness of the Work. Which Stair­case was built after the designs of the foremen­tioned Pilibert de Lorme, but of late, to the great regret of the Curious, it has been taken [Page 17] down for the meliorating the Prospect of the Tu­illeries to the Court, and for employing the Great Hall to the enlargement of the Kings Apartment. Which Apartment, as also that of the Queen, and that of Monseigneur the Dauphin are enrich'd with excellent Paintings of the ablest Masters of France. In a Gallery which reaches the whole length of the Kings Apartment on the Court-side, you may see several Cabinets enrich'd with Migna­tures and Chissel-work extremely fine, with seve­ral Tables of inlaid Stone-work very beautiful, among others one very large, upon which is the representation of a Salamander, which was the device of Francis I. and therefore this is suppo­sed to have been his Table. Here are also some of Sicilian Marble of one Piece, of a wonderful variety of Colours. This Gallery hath often ser­ved for the Reception and Audience of Ambassa­dors, and at such times it hath been adorn'd with Rich Tapistry and other precious moveables.

In the Rooms below are preserved abundance of antient Statues, and the Bust of this King made by the Cavalier Bernin when he came from Rome to draw the Designs of the Louvre. One may see there also the Plans raised of all the strongest places of Europe, which have been drawn out with all care and exactness that is possible.

The other moity of the Building on that side next the Rüe St. Honorè contains the Chappel, which is not yet finished; and the Theater, other­wise called la Salle des Machines: in which the Court was formerly entertain'd with Comedies, of which Psyche was the last, which after it had been Acted for many years▪ did still draw a world of admirers. But since the invention of Opera's came to us from Italy, serious Playes though [Page 18] mingled with musick and Entries of Ballets have given place to Song and continued Musick on whatsoever Subject it be. This Theatre, with­out contradiction, is the most magnifick of Eu­rope, not excepting that of the Duke of Parma so much boasted of. One cannot desire any thing to be better contrived. Every Person may see and hear extreme conveniently. The Room be­hind the Stage for the Machines is very large. As for the Decorations no Costs have been wanting, all the House is painted in Marble Colours. The Galleries are supported with Pillars whose Capi­tals and Pedistals are gilded, as is also the Ceil­ing which is curiously Carved.

The Prospect of all this Palace is into the Garden of the Tuilleries, to which Garden this Palace also serves as a most Magnifick Perspective, every one of its Allies being answered with a face of the Building of most beautiful Archite­cture. This Garden is at present one of the most regular of Europe, though it be not as yet adorned with Statues, as in time it will be. There is in it an open Theatre; with all the necessary parts thereunto belonging, as the Ancients contrived them, and which we see in those of Rome: Trees are planted here which serve in the like manner with the Ordinary Deco­rations in other Theatres. It is extreme great and may contain a great number of People. On the other side of the great Ally stands the Statue of Truth, raised upon a great Pedestal. It is the Work of a famous Sculptor called Ville Franche, who came from Cambray. Monsieur le Nostre continued the Works in the Tuilleries, and it is he also who manages those admirable Garden-Works at Versailles. You must by no means [Page 19] neglect to see his Cabinet which is very well fur­nished with Pictures, and Busts of Marble, most of which came out of Italy; among others one may easily observe a Picture of indifferent size, done by Dominicain, representing Adam and Eve in the Terrestrial Paradise, this is esteemed one of the finest Pieces in all Paris.

We ought to observe that the old Louvre is joyned to the Palace of the Tuilleries by the great Gallery which extends it self all along the River; at the end which was begun first there are several Paintings and other Ornaments of the design of Monsieur Poussin, but they being found too small for the Place where they stand, the Work ne­ver proceeded further but remained imperfect as it is, the beginning of this Gallery is the work of Philibert de Lorme, and the rest of Mete­zeau, he who undertook that great service at the Ditch of Rochelle, which was the chief occasion of the taking that Rebel Town. Upon this sub­ject the following Epigram was made in his ho­nour,

The Salle des Antiques, or repository of Anti­quities, is under the end of this Gallery, it is in­crusted with Marble, and full of Ancient Statues, [Page 20] the best and scarcest that can be seen. The King has caused 'em all to be engraved by Melan. And there are two great Volumes of them extant in Folio, besides those other Pictures of which we have already spoken.

The Apartments under this Gallery are all in­habited by divers famous Artists who are imploy'd in the Kings Service, and to whom he has assign'd these Lodgings.

The Royal Printing-house is also here, of which the Sieur Mabre-Cramoisy, is the Governor or Di­rector: where you may see a small Room filled only with such Books as have been printed here.

Monsieur Silvestre a famous Graver, Monsieur Melan of whose hand the publick has several ex­traordinary fine Gravings, M Coepel a Painter; M. Herard, M. Valdor, are lodged here. M. Cas­siny hath also his Chamber here thô his ordinary dwelling is at the Observatory, so hath Monsieur the Abbot Siry so well known for those curious Italian Memoires which he hath published upon History, Madamoselle Stella in whose apartment are several curious Pictures of Poussin; Monsieur Bain, a famous Enamellor, who has found out the secret to make Enamel as bright and beauti­ful as precious stones, and who hath now under his hands, for the King, a great Bason of Gold adorned with Mouldings on the Edges, this will be without all dispute a most exquisite piece when it is finished, as well for the Workmanship as for the materials, for it amounts to an hundred thou­sand Franks, he makes commonly Enamell'd Watch-Cases, and divers things of that sort. Near him is M. Boul who makes a sort of Mosaick works extreamly neat, and which the Curious preserve ve­ry [Page 21] choicely; Messieurs Sanson, Sons of the fa­mous Geographer have also Lodgings in this place; they are continually imployed, and from time to time publish some new thing in Geography.

The Kings Balaneier (or Mony-Stamp) is also kept in these parts. Here it is where they make those Curious Medals both Stamped and Cast, in Gold, Silver, and Copper. M. the Abbot Bizot, one of the most intelligent and able persons of all the Curious in Paris, had the direction formerly of these matters, after the famous Varin. One can­not desire to see any thing more choice than his Cabinet, which is compleatly furnished with Pi­ctures, Medals, ancient and modern, Agats, Fi­gures in Brass, Porcelains, and a thousand other rarities of such sort.

The Petite Ecurie, or lesser Stable, takes up the rest of the Buildings, which is very long, and full of excellent Horses.

St. Germain l'Auxerrois.

Something may be said here of St. Germain l'Auxerrois, the Parish Church of the Louvre. It is one of the ancientest of Paris, for Childe­bert was the Founder as well of this as that of St. Germain des Prez, both which he dedicated to St. Vincent, he having deposited in these Churches some Reliques of that Saint Which he brought out of Spain. They have here on great Feasts, very magnificent Ornaments given by the Queen Mother; which are of Cloath of Gold and Silver very rich: These the Republick of [...]e­noa presented to that illustrious Queen and were [Page 22] by her immediately bestowed upon this Church. The other things most remarkable in this Church are, the Tribune (or Gallery) of Germain Pi­lon's designing, who was esteemed in his Age the ablest Workman in all France for Sculpture and Architecture, and the Chappel of Monsieur the Marquess de Rosteing, in which are some Busts in Marble of several illustrious Persons of that Fa­mily. In the Room where the Churchwardens Assemble hangs a very good copy of a Last Supper, by Leonard de Vincy, whch Picture was former­ly placed in the Church and its Beauty never ob­served, till it was known that the Cavalier Ber­nin had admired it. Upon which it was quick­ly removed and placed in this Room, for the more choice keeping. The most considerable Persons who have been interred in this Church are Monsieur Seguin, who was Dean here, very ju­dicious in the value of Medals: Joachim du Bel­lay, one of the famousest Poets of his Age: Monsieur Varin, one of the ablest Gravers of Medals that France ever had; Monsieur Balin, a famous Goldsmith, of whom we have already spoken, this was he who invented those Curious Ornaments where the History of the Old and New Testament are represented in Cartouches of admirable Workmanship. Here is also the Tomb of Madamoiselle Silvestre represented in Painting on a Black Marble fixed to a Pillar behind the Quire, after Monsieur le Bruns way. In the lesser Chappels are to be seen several well esteem­ed Pictures of le Sueur's Work.

There is a Landskip in Perspective done by Francisque, worth seeing, in one of the Houses in the Cloister.

In that great space of Ground which is between [Page 23] the old Louvre and the Palace of the Tuilleries, are many fair Houses, among others

The Hôtel de Crequi, in which lives the Illu­strious Maréchal of that name. Its outside makes no great shew, but within it is very well funished: above all the Stair-case extremely well design'd. In the Street of St. Thomas du Louvre is

The Hôtel de Longueville formerly called the Hôtel de Epernon, which wants a whole wing of Building. So much as is finished is of a very beau­tiful design, chiefly the Portal, of the Ionick Or­der, as is all the rest of the House, which wants a Square or place before it, to give the more advan­tagious view. The Apartments are convenient, and the Garden pleasant tho it be inclosed on eve­ry side. You must not forget to see a Ceiling in one of the Chambers, painted by M. Mignard, high­ly esteemed.

In the Turn-again-Lane near this place stands the House of M. de Guitry, which is very handsom.

In the same Street of St. Thomas is also the Hôtel de Montausier, formerly called the Hôtel de Ramboüillet, heretofore the most delightsom Seat of the Muses, and which still serves at this day as a Retreat and Sanctuary to all ingenious Persons by the favourable protection they find from the Duke of Montausier formerly Governor to Monsiegneur the Dauphin.

Having thus satisfied ones curiosity on the Sub­ject of the Louvre, in which many particulars may be observed which are not here mentioned to avoid prolixity, let us begin our next Journey at the nearest place which is

The Quarter of St. Honorè.

This Quarter begins at the Rüe de St. Denis, where we may see, in the first place, a handsom row of Houses, built uniform with the same Sy­metry, at the Charges of the Canons of St. Ger­main l'Auxerrois, who raise out of 'em a con­siderable Revenue. This place hath been en­larged upon the Church-yard of the holy Inno­cents, which lies behind. The Charnel-houses which are built round that Church-yard, were built, as reported, out of the Confiscate Goods of the Jews when they were expelled Paris under the Reign of Philip Augustus. In probability there is not any one place in the whole World in which more dead bodies are interred; which caused the Spanish Ambassador who resided in Paris during the League, to advise the Citizens at such time when the Famine pressed them cruelly, to grind the Bones of the dead in this Church-yard to make Bread; but this Counsel was not followed com­ing from a drolling Spaniard: M. de Mezeray, so well known of the Learned for his delicate Histo­ry of France, is here Interred. You may see in this Place a Pyramid adorn'd with Bass-releifs, much esteemed, on the top of which is erected a Cross, this was set up in the last Age during the horrible Confusions of the League. There is in the same place a Skeleton of the Workman­ship of Permain Philon. Further on, is

The Cross du Tiroüer where, as it is said, Queen Grunehault was, by the Command of Clotaire, drawn at the Tail of a Wild horse. [Page 25] But this is not well proved: and it is much dispu­ted among the Historians, whether this Queen was the most illustrious, or the most wicked of her Age. For there are as many that speak well of her, as ill. St. Gregory the Great, Pope; Gre­gory of Tours, Fortunatus Bishop of Poictiers, Paulus Aemilius, du Tillet, the Bishop of Meaux, and Pasquier in his Enquiries of France, are all full of her Encomiums. Those who condemn her are Aimoin, Gaguin, Minister-general of the Mathurins, Belle-Forest, du Hail­lant, and Vigner, whose Authorities are of great force in History. So that it will be difficult to affirm any thing positively of this great Princess, who has been more spoken of than ever any Queen of France hath been. Something lower are

The Fathers of the Oratory, whose house stands in the same place where formerly was the Hôtel de Bouchages. Tho their Church is not yet quite finished, it is however already extreme handsom, and of a design very Regular. They have here on their great Altar a Tabernacle of a magnifick sort of Architecture, the Pillars are of an admirable Sicilian Marble. It is a Dome raised very high with four Porticoes, supported with six Pillars of the composite order which stand out from the Work; the Ornaments of which are perfectly well wrought, and the Proportions ex­act. A great Fabrick after this Model might well please the most difficult Persons in matters of Architecture. The Cardinal de Berulle is Inter­red in one of the Cha pels, where his Tomb may be seen, and on it his representation in white Marble. He was their Founder, as all men know. These Fathers have a very handsom Library. The [Page 26] place in Truth is a little too dark; but that does not impair its value, in regard it contains a great number of excellent Volumes both Printed and Manuscript, among which are a good number of Greeks and Arabians, given them by Monsieur de Sancy, Ambassador of France to the Porte. Who during the time of his Embassie made an exact search and collection of such Greek Rarities which had scaped the Barbarity of the Turks Such a Library this could never be better disposed of than into the custody of these Fathers, there being among them some Persons of most profound Learning, as appears by their Works, so much sought after and bought up by all Scho­lars. One might mention here Father Cointe, and Father Senault, both which have left the World such excellent Writings, the one in Histo­ry, the other in Moral Philosophy; Father Mal­branche who composed the Enquiry of Truth; Father Thomassin who wrote the Discipline of the Church in three Volumes in Folio; Father Dubois, who by order of Monseigneur the Arch-Bishop, is now about the Ecclesiastical History of Paris. This Congregation hath also furnished us with the ablest Preachers, as Monsieur the Bishop of Agen, so famous by the name of Father Mas­caron, the Course of whose Sermons were most emphatical; Father le Boust, and Father Hubert who Preach'd a Lent at Nostre-Dame to a mar­vellous concourse of People, and the last year at Court; not to mention Father Morin, and di­vers other famous Preachers who lived not long since.

As you leave the Fathers of the Oratory, and pass on along the Rüe St. Honorè, you ought to visit

[Page 27] The Palais Cardinal, which the People now call the Palais-Royal, because the King was here Educated when young. The Hôtel de Sillery stood formerly in the little Court which is before the Gate, which Cardinal Richlieu caused to be pulled down to give the better sight to the Palace, he had then caused to be built here after the des­signs of the Sieur Mercier, who had been esteem­ed a very able Architect, had he raised his Build­ings something higher; and that is the only fault of this Palace, extremely convenient in all things else. It is composed of two square Courts, of which the first and least is compassed about with Battlements, and the second is divided from the Garden by a row of Arches which support an open Gallery which reaches from one Wing to the other, through these Arches, which are in­closed with Iron Grates you have a Prospect into the Garden, which was form'd as it is by Mon­sieur le Nostre after the same Model with the Tuilleries. As for the Apartments they are all most beautiful and convenient, and all the Court resided here a long time during the Regency. A­bove all, we ought to see the Gallery where Car­dinal Richlieu caused to be painted all the famous men of France, From the time of Suger Abbot of St. Dennis, down to the time of his Ministry: That is in effect the whole French History from Lewis the young, to the Reign of Lewis XIII. Monsieur the Duke of Orleans dwells here at present, thô the House belongs to the King, to whom Cardinal Richlieu bequeathed it in his Will, together with five hundred thousand Crowns and that Curious Suit of Tapistry which is exposed on the great Feast of Corpus Christi.

[Page 28] You must not forget to see the Cabinet of Monsieur the Chevalier de Loraine, where are curious Pictures of the best Masters, it is near the Garden which adds not a little to its beauty.

In a Hall belonging to this Palace is the Thea­tre where they represent the Opera of famous M. de Lully, which draws to it continually a mighty concourse of People lovers of Musick. No part of Europe yields more pleasing Objects, be it for the Dances, or for the Symphonie, or in fine, for the singularity of the Habits; but that which is most considerable, is the wonder­ful agreement of the French Musick with the Italian, which was once thought a thing impossi­ble, and yet even in this M. de Lully hath been mighty successful. Nor has the Age been un­grateful to his extraordinary Parts, for he draws a very great Revenue from the Representations of these Pieces. The Verse is ordinarily composed by Monsieur Quinault of the French Academy: Monsieur Corneille the younger hath also made some things, and Bel [...]rophon is of his writing. From hence you go to

The Hospital of the Quinze-Vingts, which St. Lewis caused to be built in his time for 300 blind Gentlemen whom he brought with him out of the Holy Land where they had lost their Eyes in fighting against the Sarazens. Over the Gate o [...] this Ho [...]pital there stands a Statue of that Holy King which (thò of ill Workmanship) resembles him very much, as the Antiquaries pretend.

Further in the same Street is St. Roch the Parish Church for all this Quarter, in which there is a very exquisite Crucifix wrought by Monsieur An­guerre.

[Page 29] A little higher stands the Convent of the Jaco­bins, wherein is nothing very remarkable, unless it be the Library, which is one of the finest in Paris.

After this you may take notice of the Portal before the House of Monsieur Pussort Counsellor of State, it is lately built, of the Ionick Order, with an Attick over head, in which are the Arms of the Owner. This is a small piece of Archi­tecture, very well esteemed. The inside of the Fabrick is handsom, especially on that side next the Garden, which is very curious and pleasant. Near this on the same side is

The Convent of Feüillans, Henry III. first brought them out of Languedo [...], in number sixty, with the blessed John de la Barr [...]ere, Author of the Reform of St. Bernards Order. At first they were lodged at the Bo [...]s de Vin [...]nnes, till this house which was building for 'em should be finished. The great Gate which fronts upon the Rüe Saint Honorè, is but newly built; it is com­posed of four Corinthian Pillars, that support a Fronton on which are the Arms of France. The first Court which serves as a Paruis (or open Place) before the Church, is very well; and the Building over the Gate where you enter is not ill contrived. The Portal of the Church is one of the most Regular of all Paris, and it was the first Essay of Monsieur de Mansard. Here are two Orders of Pillars, Ionick and Corinthian, fluted and set off with Ornaments. Within the Church are some Chappels handsom enough, among others that of Monsieur the Marquess of Rostaing, adorn'd almost like that at St. Ger­main l'Auxerrois, with Pillars and Busts of Marble. On one side of the great Altar you may [Page 30] see a Tomb after the ancient manner. It is of white Marble, with a great Urn of the same, cu­riously wrought; tho it has no Epitaph, yet we may conclude from the Arms in the fore part of it, that it belongs to the Illustrious House of Rohan. The Quire behind the great Altar, where the Religious Sing, is adorned with Pi­ctures representing the Principal Actions of our Saviours Life.

These Fathers have very Magnisick Ornaments which with all their Plate also were given by se­veral Persons of Quality. They have a Library, not very numerous, but however there are in it very curious Pieces. In their Cloister you will find divers Paintings representing the Life of St. Bernard their Founder. Among these Reli­gious there are some famous Preachers. As the Reverend Father Dom. Cosme, at present Bishop of Lombez, the Reverend Father Hieresme, and some others. As you go from hence you pass before the Capuchins, where there is nothing re­markable, and so on to

The Nuns of the Assumption. These Nuns had their abode formerly in the Street called Ruë de la mortellerie, where they were Hospital-Sisters under the name of Haudriettes, their House in that place having been founded by one Stephen Haudry Esquire to the King St. Lewis, to Har­bor, and they to serve the poor and sick, as Histo­rians tell us. But being too much straitned for Room in that street they removed to this place, where they changed their name as well as Situa­tion. Of late years they have raised here several Noble buildings, especially their Church, which is a Dome or Cupulo after the Roman manner, very high; the inside of which is adorned with [Page 31] Corinthian Palasters supporting a Cornish, over which is a Row of Windows, between which hang certain pictures representing the Life of the Holy Virgin, well painted. But the Plafon (or Painting within the Ceiling) of the Dome is that which is most remarkable, it was done by M. de la Fosse, and represents the Assumption, with the Angels carrying and following the Blessed Virgin into Heaven, all which is both for the boldness of the painting, and the design, the finest that can be, and one of the most finish'd things of Paris. The Nuns Quire is very handsom, but is difficult to see, by reason of the great Grate that divides it from the Church, which Grate is no ill imitation of that at Val-de-Grace. As you go out you ought to take notice of the Portico supported by eight Corinthian Pillars, with a Fronton and a Cornish, the Carving Work of which is not yet finished.

All this Building was designed by M. Herard, director of the Academy of Painters which the King maintains at Rome.

Having seen these things you need to proceed no further this way, there being nothing consi­derable in the Fauxburgh of St. Honorè, unless it be the Workhouse of Monsieur Anguerre, where you may see some works in Sculpture; and a young Garden or Nursery which in Spring time has very curious Flowers. This last belongs to the King, who caused it to be made here, from hence to furnish the Tuilleries with such Flowers as are needful to set of the Parterres, there is al­so in this place a great number of Orange-Trees, well kept and preserved.

Over against the Nunnery of the Assumption is the Hôtel de Luxembourg, belonging to Mon­sieur [Page 32] the Marechal of Luxemburg, who inhabits here. The Garden is extreme pleasant.

Next to this are the Capuchin Nuns, founded by Henry IV. in pursuance of the pious intenti­on of Loüise de Loraine, Widow of Henry III. They live very austerely. On one side of their Gate, a Fountain has been erected on which are these two Verses of Monsieur de Santeüil.

The Hôtel of Vendôme is near this, and takes up a long Space in the Street. It was built by the Duke of Vendôme natural Son of Henry IV. who always lived here. The inside is very beau­tiful. The Front of the great Stair-case which is of the dessigne of M. Mansard, is adorn'd with many Pillars which as you come in make a deli­cate shew. The Garden is great but neglected as is all the rest of the House. The Duke of Ven­dôme Governor of Provence, and Grandson of him above-mentioned lives at present in the Temple, with Monsieur the Grand Prior of France, his Brother.

Having thus run through the Street of St. Ho­norè, let us now enter upon the next Quarter which is called la Butte St. Roch.

The Quarter de la Butte St. Roch.

To view this Quarter in Order, you should begin at the Ruë de Richelieu, where as soon as you enter, you have on the right hand

The Palais Brion.

People give it that name because the Duke of Amville Earl of Brion, for some time made his abode here. This Building is part of the Palais Royal, and was begun by the Cardinal of Riche­lieu, who designed it for his Library. But some years since the King hath given it to two Acade­mies, that of Painting, and that of Architecture. The first of these was established by M. des Noyers, under the direction of M. de Chambray Brother of M. de Chant-Loup, from whose pen we have several excellent pieces in print, among others, The Parallel of the Ancient and Modern Archi­tecture, Palladio translated into French, &c. This Academy was re established by Monsieur the Chancelier Seguier, after whose death that beautiful Catafalque at the Fathers of the O­ratory, was erected to his Memory as to their Protector. Monsieur Colbert succeeded him in this Charge and in the affection he bore them. Every day here is exposed a naked man, which is the Model by which the young Scholars design, in order to attain from Nature her self the great [Page 34] Art of Painting, an Art that requires a most assi­duous Study. The great Hall where they meet is full of abundance of Pictures done by the most able Masters in the Academy, and of all those pie­ces that have been won for Prizes, which are here distributed to raise emulation among the young Artists▪, and of the Master-pieces of those who have desired to be admitted into the Academy. The Representations and Busts of several persons who have contributed to the establishment of this Academy are here also preserved. And in regard Painting is not the only thing here exercised but Sculpture also, they have got hither from Rome the models in Plaister of the most famous Statues of Antiquity, as that of Flora, of Hercules in the Palace of Farneze, of Venus, of the two Wrest­lers, and of several others. Here are also several Bass-reliefs, and Sculptures better than ordinary. The names of those who are the present Members of this Academy are

Monsieur le Brun, Escuyer, principal Painter to the King, Chancellor and chief Rector of the Academy.

• M. Anguier, Painter.
• M. Girardon, Sculptor.

• M. de Séve, the Elder, P.
• M. des Jardins, S.

• [Page 35]M. Beaubrun, P. Professor and Treasurer.
• M. Buister, S.
• M. Mauperché, P.
• M. Buiret, S.
• M. Coyel, P.

• M. Regnaudin, S.
• M. Paillet, P.
• M. de Séve, P.
• M. Blanchard, P.
• M. de la Fosse, P.
• M. le Hongre, S.
• M. Coyzevaux, S.
• M. Hoüasse, P.
• M. Tuby, S.
• M. Audran, P.
• M. Jouvenet, P.
• M. Montaigne, P.

• M. Corneille the Elder, P.
• M. Rabon. S.
• M. Monier, P.
• M. Massou, S.
• M. Verdier, P.
• M. Licherye, P.
• M. de Mameur, P.

• [Page 36]M. Leclerc, Engraver, Professor in Geometry, and Perspective.
• M. Friquet, P. Professor▪ in Anatomy.

• M. Rousselet, Graver.
• M. Yvart, P.
• M. Tortebat. P.
• M. Rabon, P.
• M. Silvestre, G.
• M. Edelinck, G.
• M. Baptiste Monoyé, P.
• M. Herault, P.
• M. Vandermeulin, P.
• M. Audran, G.
• M. Guerin. Secretary.
• M. de S. Georges, Historiogapher.
• M. Joblo, Assistant to the Professor in Geo­metry.
• M. le Maire, P.
• M. Vleugels, P.
• M. Valet, G.
• M. Picard, G.
• M. Huilliot, P.
• M. Genoelle, P.
• M. Legros, S.
• M. Mainer, S.
• M. Vignon, P.
• M. Mazeline, S.
• M. Hallier, P.
• M. Garnier, P.
• M. Bourguignon, P.
• M. Mignard, P.
• [Page 37] M. Lalemant, P.
• M. Cotelle, P.
• M. Armand, P.
• M. Baudet, G.
• M. Nocret, P.
• M. de Trois, P.
• M. Corneille, P.
• M. Bonnemer, P.
• M. Facus, P.
• M. Tiger, P.
• M. Lambert, P.
• M. le Comte, S.
• M. de Fredemontagne, P.
• M. Lespingola, S.
• M. Natiè, P.
• M. Cheron, P.
• M. Parossel, S.
• M. de la Mare Richard, P.
• M. Boulogne, P.
• M. Allegrein, P.
• M. Loir, G.
• M. Masson, G.
• M. Manier, S.
• M. Flamand, S.
• M. Vancleve, S.
• M. Vanbecq. P.
• M. Rabon, P.
• M. Beville, P.
• M. Cornu, S.
• M. Boulongue, the younger, P.
• M. le Blon, P.
• M. Toutin, P.
• M. Coypel, P.
• M. Benoist, P.
• M. Arnoul, P.
• M. Giffard, G.
• [Page 38] M. Person, P.
• M. Alexandre, P.
• M. Prou, S.
• M. Carrè, P.
• M. Hallè, P.
• M. Lemoine, P. Decorator.

In a lower Gallery they keep a many Busts and ancient Statues which the King hath sent for out of Italy. There is a very considerable number of them which are placed in Ranks one degree higher than another as in an Amphitheater; in which place there stands also a Model in Plaister of that beautiful Pillar which the Roman Senate Consecrated to the Memory of the Emperor Tra­jan, which is the best Monument that remains of the ancient Grandeur of Rome: by this we may see the Perfection to which the Ancients had brought the Art of designing. The King caused this Model to be made at a very great expence: It hath cost near two hundred thousand Franks. Francis I. had made the same thing with a design to have raised such another Pillar at Fontainebleau; but Death preventing▪ the Stones [...]ay by neglect­ed, and were after made use of to build a stable. M. Felibien hath the care and oversight of these things, to place them in their proper stations. No man understands these matters better than himself, as appears sufficiently by his Works. We shall say in its proper place how much the Learn­ed are obliged to him for those Books with which he has enrich'd the Publick, as his Dictionary of the Arts; his lives of the Painter, which he has published in four Volumes, perfectly well writ, besides which we have hardly any thing on that Subject in our Language: with several other pieces on divers subjects of Archi tecture and Painting.

[Page 39] The other Academy established in this Palais Brion is that of Architecture, which takes up all the Apartments at the further end of the Court. This Academy the King erected in the year 1672. and placed it under the Authority of the Super­intendant of the Buildings, of which the illustri­ous Monsieur Blondel is the Director. Who had the honour to teach the Mathematicks to the Dauphin, of whom we shall speak more at large when we come to treat of his Cabinet. It is he also who makes the publick Lectures of Archi­tecture in this place. The Hall where the Mem­bers of this Academy assemble is adorned with curious designs, and one may easily distinguish from the rest, the Model which the Chevalier Bernin made of the Louvre when the King sent for him from Rome on this account.

In the middle of the Court is placed a Horse of Brass a little bigger than the life. This the King caused to be brought from Nancy. It stands upon a Pedestal, and remains here till it be re­moved to some place where it may be more ex­posed to publick View.

When you go from hence you ought to visit the House of Monsieur de la Fosse, who dwells cross the way: here you may see several Pieces of Painting in his way, much esteemed.

Observe as you go that the Rüe de Richelieu for the length, and for the beauty of the Houses, which are all built in a strait Line, is one of the most beautiful and regular Streets of Paris. It takes its name from the great Cardinal de Riche­lieu, who during his Ministry, caused it to be considerably enlarged, and the Gate to be made at the end which leads out of Town on the side next Montmartre. In the same Street these [Page 40] Verses of M. de Santeüil, are engraved on a Fountain.

As you go forward you come to the house of M. Mignard, who has by him many Curiosities. From thence you go to

The Hôtel de Jarz, so called from a Com­mander of Malta, who bought the Ground of the Abbot of St. Victor, and built it. It is one of the best Works of Monsieur Mansard for de­sign.

The Gate is a curious piece, and the Stair-case is very light, and consequently pleasant: The Apartments are large and high. But to say the Truth, they are not so convenient as beautiful. On the Garden side are contrived two small Ca­binets (or Closets) supported with Pillars with much Art and Industry, but they are two small for the bigness of the Pillars which support them.

Adjoyning to this is the Hôtel de Louvois: there are many things to be taken notice of in this house, but more especially the Stair-case, and the Room of Audience. As for the Apartments they are contrived to the best advantage, and no man can desire better Furniture than is seen here. [Page 41] Rich Tapistry, Branches for Candles, Tables, Looking-glasses of Silver, Embroidered Beds, and in fine, all that can contribute to magnificence and neatness, may be here seen, every thing in its proper place. The face of the Building on the Garden side, and that next the Court correspond and are both of a curious Symetry. You must not neglect to observe as you pass, the Locks on the doors, which are very finely wrought, and kept with such care that they shew like Silver.

Over against this Hôtel is a long Gallery, in which was formerly kept the Library of Cardinal Mazarine, at present in the College of the four Nations. The Stable was underneath. The Duke of Nevers uses the Chambers that are at the end, where you may see some Ceiling pieces well Painted. Of late this Gallery hath been broken through, to make room for a new street that runs cross from the Rüe Vivien to the Rüe de Richelieu, to which they have given the name of Monsieur Colbert.

At the further end of the Rüe de Richelieu you come into the Street of S. Augustin, so called from the Religious men of that Saints Order, other­wise called les petits Peres (the little Fathers) whose house stands at the end and takes up part of this Street.

In this Street are many very fair houses. About three or four years since the Sieur Douilly Receiver of the Generalty of Poitiers, built one over against the Nuns of S. Thomas, on which he hath laid out one hundred thousand Crowns: there is nothing wanting but a little more Room, but it was impossi­ble to have allotted more to the Work, it being shut up between the Petits-peres, and the R [...]e Vivien. Otherwise all is handsom. The Stair-case [Page 42] is very light and large, and the Gate contri­ved after the manner of a Vault is very well pro­portioned; I say nothing of the Moveables, for one may well conclude that a house which appears so well without, wants for no Furniture, and that the beauty within is equal to that on the out­side.

In the same Street stands the Hôtel de Gra­mont. This House hath for a long time been justly esteemed one of the fairest of Paris. It did once belong to the Sieur Monerot, who spa­red no Cost to make it Glorious. And it still preserves its Beauty, for its Furniture is most magnificent, since it came to the Duke of Gramont. It looks towards Montmartre which renders its situation extreme pleasant.

Near this is the Hôtel de Grantè, not all out so magnificent, but very commodious and plea­sant, because of its Garden which is one of the neatest of Paris, the abode of the Mareschal of that name. This Hôtel did once belong to the Sieur Thevenin, who was a very curious per­son.

Not far from hence is the House of St. Cotte-Blanche. Here was formerly a very good Libra­ry: and it was once adorned with very good Fur­niture and curious Pictures, but its Master having changed his Fortune, all these things are now dispersed.

The House of M. Fremont, and several others that look upon the Fields, are not unpleasant.

The House of M. de Bois-Franc, Intendant of the Duke of Orleans, which is on the other side of the Street, is one of the most finished things that can be seen. The face of the Building next the Court is extreme regular, set off with a kind [Page 43] of Portico whose Pillars are of the Ionick Order, with Vases on the top done about with Festons and other Ornaments, all which give you a plea­sing object as you enter. Round about the Court are Busts of Emperors placed between the Arches that support the Building. The Stair-case is very spacious, with a Balustrade of Wood painted like white Marble, and wrought with a great deal of design. The Bas-reliefs on the Doors of the se­veral Apartments, tho they be but of Plaister, are notwithstanding very Ornamental. There is also in this House a Cabinet (or Closet) of very choice Books. As you go out you ought to ob­serve the great Gate which is extremely well con­trived on a very odd sort of a Foundation.

The Rue Vivien.

In this Street are several great Houses. That where dwells Monsieur Desmarais, Intendant of the Finances, and Nephew of Monsieur Colbert, deserves to be viewed: but above all

The Kings Cabinet.

The House wherein this is kept hath but a very ordinary appearance; and one would hardly be­lieve by the outside, that it contains within so many curious things.

First, here is kept the Kings Library, which was heretofore at Fontainbleau, which Charles V. began, and which has been since much augment­ed by Francis I. and Catherine de Medicis. [Page 44] But of late years it hath been made much more numerous, in regard that at present here are more than fifty thousand Volumes, among which are twelve, or fifteen thousand Manuscripts in He­brew, Greek, Arabick, Syriack, Latin, French, and almost all Languages. As for printed Books, there is no rare piece that can be heard of▪ but you may find here a Copy. Here are several very ancient Manuscripts of St. C [...]prian, which Cathe­rine de Medicis brought with her, as also divers other very scarce Books, out of the famous Li­brary of Laurence de Medicis. There are also some pieces of the History of France, which have been Collected very particularly and are kept here with great care. The Duke of Bethune, hath composed a considerable number touching the most important Negotiations which have been from the time of Francis I. to the Mini­stry of Cardinal de Richelieu. All these Volumes are curiously bound in Turkie-Leather of a Flame-colour, gilt, and the Kings Arms on the Covers. Books of Prints have here also their proper places, of which there are here several great Volumes Collected by Monsieur the Abbot Marolles, the most curious person of his time, in these matters. The several Masters are pla­ced in several Shelves, the Italians, Flemings, the Dutch, and the French, so that without much trouble one may observe their peculiar ways and fancies, and how these great Masters arrived to perfection in the Art of Painting, by different Roads. Here are also several Ancient Volumes of Limnings or Miniatures, well and carefully preserved, in which one may remarque the singularity of the Habits of our Ancestors, and their odd fancies in designing; but the most [Page 45] beautiful things of this kind are certain Collecti­ons of Animals and Plants, design'd upon Vellum, after the life, by Monsieur Robert, who hath la­boured a long time to render this Work com­pleat as we now see it. Here you may see a very great Volume in Folio, containing all sorts of Sea-Fish, this the States of Holland presented to Cardinal Mazarine, after a good Office re­ceived from that Minister, in a long Negotiation; and after his death it was placed in this Cabinet. In fine you may view in this Library whatsoever Book you can desire upon any Subject. Monsieur the Prior of Nogent, Son to Monsieur Colbert, is the Library keeper, M▪ Carcavi is Keeper un­der him, and M. Clement hath under him the care of placing the Books, and keeping the Cata­logue.

Books are not the only Curiosity to be seen in this place. The Medals here are one of the most considerable Treasures. Here are of all sorts, Ancient and Modern, no less than twenty thou­sand. Certainly there is not in all Italy a more considerable Collection, They are placed accor­ding to the order of time in little Cabinets of Cedar, whose Drawers are▪ gilt and Titled neatly; The sequel of the latter Greek Empire is so compleat, that the Learned M. du Cange hath composed from hence the last Volume of his Bi­zantine History. As for the Moderns here are all that can be met with not only of Popes, Kings, Princes of Grmany and Italy, but of every other Nation, even the very Jettons (or Counters) which remarque any particular event of History are here preserved. Here are also a great number of ancient Agates, among others one represent­ing Constantine the Great Crowned with Lawrel, [Page 46] extremely rare for its variety of Colours, and for its bigness, besides that it was wrought in the time of that Emperour as all Antiquaries agree. Also several others representing divers matters.

But one of the greatest and most singular Rari­ties of this Cabinet, in the Judgment of all men, is the Tomb of Childeric the fourth King of France, who lived in the year 458. and was the immediate Predecessor of Clouis. This Monu­ment was discovered at Tournay in the year 1653. As certain Workmen were digging near the Ca­thedral Church in an old Burial-place in order to lay a Foundation for a Sacristy; they first disco­vered the skeliton of a Horses Head, and after that near the same place a long Stone in nature of a Tomb, which Stone the Workmen were fain to break before they could remove it; But they were surprised to find under it the Bones of a Man all lying in their natural and pro­per situation. Curiosity urging them to exa­mine this discovery still further, they found among the Bones a good quantity of Greek Medals of Gold, of the latter Empire, with a great num­ber of Flies of the same metal, with their wings half open, and enamelled with Cornelian. The noise of this spread over the Town immediately, and the Canons of the Cathedral Church came to the place to consider what these things might discover. In fine, they still found further a kind of Clasp, a great Buckle, and an Oxes head of Gold also, which last was apparently the repre­sentation of that Divinity which they at that time Worshiped. There was also a Sword garnished with the same metal. But that which effectually discovered this to be the Tomb of King Childe­ric, was a Seal-Ring of Gold, on which was cut a [Page 47] head, with these words about it, Sigillum Chil­derici Regis. We need not say that there was also certain Table-books, with their needle or pen, of gold, the Iron head of a Battle-axe almost consumed with rust, with a Ball of Christal solid and round like an egg which served in his Sickness to cool his mouth, or for some other use accor­ding to the Custom of that age, now unknown. All these things were collected together with a great deal of care. And the Arch Duke who was then Governor of the Low-Countries, desi­ring to have this precious Monument for his own Cabinet, the Canons of Turney could not refuse him; but that Prince dying, it came to the Em­perours possession. After this the Elector of Col [...]gne, who had used his utmost endeavours to obtain it from the Arch-Duke in his life-time, made now the same requests to the Emperour, who sent him the Monument as soon as he desired. This the Elector presented to the King, who caused it to be placed in his own Cabinet, where it is now preserved as an evidence of the high An­tiquity of the French Monarchy, and the original of the Flowers-de-Lis, contrary to what Chiflet hath writ in his Book called Anastasis Childerici, to which Book Monsieur de St. Amant hath ex­tremely well answered and made it apparent that those things which they found in the Tomb like Flies, were indeed Flowers-de-Lis, and not Bees, as that Author imagines.

Under M Carcavi, abovementioned, M. Vail­lant is employed in keeping the Medals, who hath been several times in the Levant, to make Collections of such things. He published in La­tin not many years since a History of the King­dom of the Seleucides, collected from the Medals [Page 48] in this Cabinet, in which he has discovered his pro­found knowledge in this Science, and hath at the same time been mighty serviceable to the Learned in explaining many things, which they would hardly have understood perfectly without his help.

Here you may see also over the Chimny several other Antiquities, as Lacrimatories, such as the Ancients used to gather the tears in of those that wept at Funerals and then place 'em in the Tombs; Lamps; little Idols, and abundance of such like things.

The Academy of Sciences, meet in this house; for whose use the King caused the Observatory to be built. The Learned Men who compose this Academy, labour continually for new Discoveries in Natural Philosopby and the Mathematicks, who being persons of extraordinary Science, the Reader will not be displeased to see their names and they are

• M. Duclos, Physician.
• M. Carcavi, Mathematitian.
• M. Huguens, M.
• M. Blondel, M.
• M. Perault, P.
• M. du Hamel, Secretary to the Academy.
• M. The Abbot Gallois, M.
• M. Mariotte, M.
• M. Cas [...]ni, M
• M. du Vernay, P.
• M. Bourdelin, Chymist.
• M. D [...]da [...]t, P.
• M. Borelli, M.
• M. de la Hire, M.
• M. Pothenot, M,
• [Page 49] M. Sedileau, M.
• M. The Abbot de Lanion, M.
• M. Couplet, M.

The Names of those Members who are de­ceased since 1666. About which time this Aca­demy was first established by Monsieur Colbert, at the Solicitation of M. Duclos, and M. the Ab­bot of Bourzay, are

• M. de la Chambre, P.
• M. Frenicle, M.
• M. Pequet, P.
• M. Roberval, P.
• M. The Abbot Picard, M.
• M. Gaïer, P.
• M. Marchand, P.

In their Hall is a great Burning-glass, which does wonderful effects when exposed to the Sun; in a Cabinet near this they have a Momie brought from Egypt, but of late they have not shewn it, it being broke. All their Rooms are filled with Books, every Author being obliged to give a Copy here, to obtain his Priviledge, which makes the Number augment daily.

The Rue des Petits Champs.

From the Rüe Vivien of which we have been treating, let us now turn to the Rüe des petits Champs which lies at the end of the other. The first thing which we find remarkable in this Street as you enter from the Rüe St. Honorè, is

[Page 50] The Hôtel de la Vrilliere, the abode of Mon­sieur de la Vrilliere de Château Neuf, one of the four Secretaries of State. This Hôtel is one of the fairest of Paris, and best exposed to view, by reason it fronts full upon the Rüe des Fossez. The Portal is supported with Pillars of the Dorick Order, with two great Statues upon Pedestals above. The forepart of the house is in manner of a Terrase, and joyns the two Wings. The Court is exactly square; and the outside of the Buildings hath all the [...] be desired, the Ornaments being [...] exceeding just and regular proportion. For the Apartments beside their Gilding and Sculpture, they are adorn­ed with most magn [...]ck Furniture, among other things one may there [...]e a Suit of Tapistry repre­senting the twelve Months of the year, of a most singular design. The Gallery is full of excellent pictures, of the ablest Masters. There is one piece of Bassan highly esteemed, and admired by all the Curious. This Beautiful House is the De­sign of Francis Mansard. Almost cross the way is

The Hôtel de Emery, in which Monsieur Fou­quet dwelt for some time, and after him Monsieur the Mareschal de Turenne: It is one of the most capacious houses that you can meet with. M. Per­rault Controller of the Buildings uses one part of it, which he has fitted up extreme neatly. Af­ter this you come to

The Hôtel de Ceneterre, which hath this pe­culiar, that it is encompassed on all sides with Streets. It is vast and Commodious, and the Garden extream pretty. The Sieur le Févre of Orleans was the Architect that built it. The Furniture is Magnifick. Going still forward in the same street you come to

[Page 51] The Hôtel Colbert, where dwelt the deceased Monsieur Colbert Minister and Secretary of State, and Controller general of the Finances (or Reve­nue.) There appears in this Fabrick much re­gularity with an excellent Gust and very peculiar. The Court is square, and the Buildings about it of such a neat contrivance that you can hardly meet with the like elsewhere. The Apartments are disposed with wonderful Judgment. But that which is most observable is the Portal on the Court-side, which is formed Vault-fashion ex­treme skilfully, with the Kings Bust in the far­ther part of it, of Chevalier Bernini's hand. This piece of Work is in its kind one of the best per­formed and handsomest things that can be seen. The Library is none of the least considerable Or­naments of this Hôtel, it is one of the fairest that we have at present, for the number of Books, but chiefly for the very considerable Manuscripts which are not to be met with else where. Among others there is a very Ancient Bible, of the time of the Emperor Charles the Bald, with a great many Volumes of Negotiations in the time of Monsieur the Cardinal Mazarine, which take up all that end of the Gallery next the House, Mon­sieur the Abbot Baluze is the Library-keeper, which Learned Person is so well known through all Europe that it is needless to say any thing here in his commendation. He hath published several Works which sufficiently discover his profound knowledge, among others Capitularia Regum Fancorum in three Volumes in Folio; certain Learned Dissertations on several contested Sub­jects, and in fine, some Pieces which time had concealed, and which with great Study and pains he daily brings to light under the Title of Mis­cellanea, [Page 52] to which he prefixes proper Prefaces, by which we are acquainted with the Lives and Me­rits of the Authors. Most part of these excellent things he draws from the Manuscripts of this Li­brary. On one side of this House lies

The Hôtel de Boüillon la Marq. Of late this is joyned to the Hôtel Colbert, and as it is now re-built it is much more commodious and neat than formerly.

The House of M. de Menars Master of Re­quests in the Generality of Paris is in the same Row next the Rüe du Mail. You may here see the famous Library of the Messieurs de Thou. The Name of those Illustrious Persons to whom it hath belonged, cannot but raise our esteem and curiosity for such a Collection, and by the print­ed Catalogue we may easily perceive the number and rarity of the Books. M. Quesnel who hath the care of them, hath placed them in the exact­est order that can be desired, and this Library hath lost nothing of the Beauty and Reputation which it formerly had when it belonged to Mes­sieurs de Thou, which makes us hope that it may also e're long be publick as it was formerly. Re­turning again from the Rüe de petits-Champs, you go to

The Palais Mazarin. There is no place in Paris where you will meet with more Curiosities. or see richer Furniture than in this Palace. The front of the Building on that side next the Court is of Brick and Free-Stone, with two Statues of white Marble, which shew curiously as you enter. The Stair-case on the right hand leads to the A­partments, composed of many Chambers whose Cielings are adorned with Gilding and Pictures of the best Masters of the Age: As for the Fur­niture, [Page 53] it is in all the Rooms Magnific, and it is continually changed with the Season of the year; In one of the Chambers, all the Gold­smiths Work, as a great Branch for lights, the Chenets, and several other things, were all de­sign'd by the famous Cavalier Bernini, which is infinitely more esteemed by the curious than the Metal of which they are wrought. After you have gone through several Chambers on the same floor, hung with rich Tapistry heightned with Gold and Silver, you are brought into a Gallery filled on each side with Cabinets adorned with precious Stones, and Chizil-work in Gold and Silver, placed upon Tables of Marble or inlaid Stone. You see there also Vases of Jasper and Alablaster of several sizes, with little Statues in Brass of delicate Workmanship. The floor of this Gallery is covered with a Turky-work Carpet all of one piece, and of an extraordinary length. The Apartments below Stairs are no less magnific than those above. All the Rooms are full of Germain Cabinets, and China, with Trunks of Japan, wonderfully light and sweet: besides this here are abundance of Marble Statues brought out of Italy with extraordinary Cost. In one of these Rooms you may see on a Table, a small Figure of the same Piece; it is about half a foot high and represents a Cibelle holding a Book in her hand, this is mightily esteemed. In another Room near this are several great Tables of Por­phyry and Marble; the Lower-Gallery and the Hall through which you pass to it, are also full of Busts and ancient Statues. This Galery is of the same length with that of which I have already spoke. In fine, no one place can shew us toge­ther so great variety of curious things; Clocks, [Page 54] Pendulums of an extraordinary nature, Statues of Silver, and Silver gilt, with Vases of the same, and all these things very numerous. On Corpus Christi Day some of the Rich Tapistry belonging to this Hôtel is exposed to publick View, of which there is enough to hang a whole street.

Before the Gate they place the rich Housses, (or Trappings) embroidered with Gold and Silver, which Cardinal Mazarine caused to be made a­gainst the Cerimonies of the Kings Marriage; they are surprisingly magnificent. Those belong­ing to the Mules and Led-Horses are embroidered upon red Velvet, with the Arms of the Cardinal in the middle, and several devices in the corners, with other Ornaments To conclude, one cannot express all the rich and brave things that are in this Magni [...]ick Palace.

Further on, is, The House of Monsieur de Saint Poüange, which belongs at present to Monsieur de Bechamel Marquess of Nointel. This House is very well Built; the inside is extraordinary neat, and so is the Garden and Stair-case, which last are reckoned among the best of Paris. But that which is chiefly to be observed, is the excellent piece of Perspective Painted by the Sieur Rousseau on one of the Court-Walls; it is in its kind the best of the Kingdom, and one cannot meet with any thing more pleasing to the Eye than that magnifick Architecture which is there represent­ed. You come next to

The Hôtel de Lionne, which the late Monsieur de Lionne, Marquess of Berni, and Secretary of State, built from the Ground, for which he em­ployed the Sieur de Veau the Kings Architect. Monsieur the Mareschal de Villeroy, and the Duke, his Son, dwell here at present. The out­side [Page 55] of this Hôtel is of a very handsom contri­vance, set off with the Ornaments of Archite­cture. The inward parts are extreme commodi­ous, and the Garden which lies behind is very ad­vantagious to its graceful View. There was a design of building a Library here, but the Ma­sters death arriving too soon, put a stop to the performance.

Near this is a great House newly built at the very corner of the Rüe St. Anne, belonging to Monsieur de Grand-Maison, heretofore Trea­surer of the Extraordinaries of War, who hath spared no cost to make it so beautiful as it is.

Almost exactly cross the Way is the House of the Sieur Baptist de Lully of whom we spoke when we treated of the Opera, this House is ador­ned on the outside with great Corinthian Pilasters.

In the Rue Sainte Anne

Is the House called les novelles Converties, (or New Converts) built about ten or twelve years ago, with the Alms of several Persons of Quality, among others, the famous Monsieur de Turenne, for the Habitation of those Families who should embrace our Religion. Their Church is but small, and there is nothing curious in it to observe.

The Convent des Petits-Peres stands in this quarter, at the further end of the Rüe Sainte Augustin. King Lewis XIII. was the Founder, and left 'em wherewithal to begin the Fabrick of their Church which is not yet finished. There is nothing observable in their house. On the [Page 56] Fountain which stands at their Gate you read this Inscription.

In the Rüe des Fossez, which is near this, is

The Hôtel de Pompone, where dwells Monsieur de Pompone, formerly Secretary of State. This House was heretofore called the Hôtel de l'Hôpital, and belonged to Monsieur the Mareschal of that name. Not far from these places of which we have spoke you go to

The Hôtel de Soisons belonging to Madam the Princess of Carignan, and Madam the Dutchess of Nemours, Heiresses of the late Monsieur the Comte de Soissons, Lewis of Bourbon, Prince of the Blood. It was first built by Catherine of Medicis for her retreat after the death of Hen. II. her Husband, and here she remained a long time during her Widow-hood. The outside of this House is but mean, but the Apartments are hand­som and extremely well furnished. The Garden is one of the greatest of Paris, and furnished with very handsom Orangers. Here is a great Pillar raised in one of the Corners of the Court, with a small Stair-case contrived within it, in imi­tation [Page 57] of that of Trajan at Rome, Report says that this was built by Catherine of Medicis, who had great skill in Astrology, and that she used fre­quently to go up to the top of this Pillar to make her Observations. Joyning to the Walls of this Hotel stands the Chappel which serves only for the use of those of the Family. It is called the Queens Chappel, because it was built at the same time with the rest of the House, and Catherine de Medicis came often hither to hear Mass in publick. Near this is the Street called Rüe de Gre­nelle in which stands

The Hôtel Seguier. This was formerly called the Hôtel de Bellegarde, it being built by the Duke of that name while he was great Master of the Horse of France under the Reign of Hen. IV. who imployed him in great Negotiations and sent him to Florence in order to his Marriage with Mary of Medicis. Monsieur the Chancellor Se­guier, when he came to dwell here enlarged it very considerably, and built that beautiful Gallery which takes up one side of the Garden. The inside is extreme handsom, and the Wain scot Work is of the best kind that one can desire to see, all is gilt and adorn'd with Pictures done by the Sieur Voëte, who had the Reputation in his time, of a good Painter. There are also some Landskips done by other good Masters, which are admira­ble. That which was very remarkable in this Gallery during the life of Monsieur the Chancel­lor, was a great number of Porcelain Vessels that were placed all round the Gallery upon the Cor­ni [...], and which made the finest shew that could be. It was difficult to find in any one place a greater quantity, and better collected. Here were also Cabinets placed between the Windows [Page 58] on both sides. At the end of this Gallery you enter on the left hand into a Chamber which was richly adorned with Tapistry, where were several rich pieces of Goldsmiths work, among others, a great Frame curiously wrought in which stood the Picture of the late Monsieur the Chancellor done by M. le Brun.

You might also have seen here a Cabinet of Ebony enriched with ancient Agates representing the Emperors heads, and in a little Cabinet near this, a great number of Animals very considera­ble, some in Vases, and some in Pictures, wrought by the best Masters of Italy, and by those who dwelt at Limoges in the last Age. Madame the Chanceliere, who deceased not long since, had here a Cabinet of Crystal most delicately cut, with abundance of Watches and Clocks, enriched with precious stones: few Houses in Europe had a greater quantity of Silver Vessels. You might have seen here a whole Service of Silver gilt most magnificently, each piece being extraordinary both for the bigness and workmanship. But that which was the greatest Ornament of this Noble House was the numerous Libary, valued at near two hundred thousand Crowns. Which Library was first begun by Monsieur the President Seguier, and by him given in his Will to his Nephew, Monsieur the Chancellor. It was situate over the Gallery of which we have already spoken. We need not say that it was full of very curious Books, that may easily be supposed since it was collected by the ablest man of his Age, and to say all, by him whom the French Academy made choice of for their Protector after the decease of the great Cardinal de Richlieu, in whose House they al­ways assembled till such time as the King setled [Page 59] them in the Louvre, where at present they re­main. There were in this Library a great num­ber of very rare Manuscripts, whose names we find cited by Authors who have here made use of them. We may expect one day to see a Ca­talogue of them, which was never yet made publick. But this will not be till the Inventory be finished, and then all these choice Books which have been so long collecting together with so much pains by the greatest men of their time, shall be exposed to publick Sale, and dispersed among those who will give the prizes demanded. Such was the state of this Hôtel during the life of Monsieur the Chancellor Seguier, who held that great Office for many years with universal applause, and that during very unsetled times:

At the end of the Rüe de grenelle, you come into the Rüe Platriere, in which Street stand two fair Houses.

That of Monsieur de Bouillon, and that of the late Monsieur de Herval, Controller-Ge­neral of the Finances. The last of these was built with much care. You may see there se­veral good paintings of Monsieur Mignard, and a Bed with its Furniture extreme Rich. This House stands in the place where were former­ly the Stables belonging to the Hôtel de Eper­non.

In the Rüe Coquéron at the end of the Rüe du Bouloy, is

The Hôtel de Gesures, whose outside is neat and Furniture within very handsom. It did once belong to Monsieur de Fontenay-Mareüil, so well known for his famous Embassies, and above all for that to Rome.

[Page 60] Further on is the House of the Sieur Monginot, built but four or five years since. On which he hath made a considerable expence. It looks very great on the Court-side, and the Apartments which are disposed in enfilades (or through Pro­spects) are magnificently furnished with Tapistry, Chenets of Silver, and all the Furniture for the Chimny of the same; In fine, all is extreme neat, and nothing seems wanting, unless it were a lit­tle more light to the Stair-case, but as it is pla­ced it is impossible to make it lighter.

The Church of St. Eustache.

This Church was formerly but a small Chappel dedicated to St. Agnes, and depended upon the Chapter of St. Germain le Auxerrois. The pre­sent Fabrick was begun to be built in the year 1521. and the first Stone was laid by the Provost of Paris, by name John de la Barre. It is at present the greatest and most spacious of the Kingdom. The Grandeur of the Building, the number of the Pillars which in truth are a little too thick crowded together, and the heighth of the Roof, with the Chappels that are round it, considered altogether, render this Edifice Maje­stick. Among other things the two Chappels which are on each side of the great Gate ought to be observed. One of which is appropriated to Baptism, and Painted by Monsieur Mignard, the other for Marriage, and Painted By Monsieur de la Fosse: Monsieur Colbert did contribute to their decoration. In the Chappel of Marriage stands the Model of the great Portal which is to be raised before this Church, which Work will be [Page 61] very expensive. The Pulpit is well wrought in imitation of that at St. Estienne du Mons, but it falls short of that. Overhead is a great Picture representing the Apparition of our Lord, painted after the manner of Monsieur le Brun; this Pi­cture was given by Monsieur Colbert, as seems by his Arms at the bottom. Adjoyning to one of the Pillars in the Nave on the left hand as you enter, you see a great Bas-relief of white Marble on a Foundation of black, which is the Epitaph of the famous Monsieur de la Chambre, so re­nowned for his Writings, this is contrived in a Medaillon held up by Immortality, and to make her more obvious and better understood, over head is a Cartel or Scroul with these words out of the Scripture graven therein

This curious piece is the Workmanship of the Sieur Baptist Turcy, who wrought after the de­sign of Monsieur le Brun. The other things in this Church are of no great consideration. Mon­sieur the Chancellor Seguier, and Monsieur de Bullion Sur-Intendant of the Finances under the Ministration of Cardinal de Richolieu, were Be­nefactors to this Work. Monsieur de la Mothe le Vayer, formerly Tutor to Monsieur, and so well known for his rare Writings, and Monsieur the Abbot of Bourfay of the French Academy, are enterred here.

IN the Rüe Coquilliere which is near St. Eusta­che, stands the House of Monsieur Berrier Secretary of the Council: in whose Garden was [Page 62] found the Bust of Cybele, formerly▪ mentioned. The Portal, tho it makes no great shew outward­ly, yet within it is of singular beauty, adorned with Corinthian Pilasters of an admirable Gust. The Garde des Sceaux (or Lord-Keeper of the Seals) de Chateau-neuf dwelt here.

These are the principal things that are to be seen in this Quarter.

Behind St. Eustache lies the Rüe Montmartre, near the further end of which Street stands the little Church of St. Joseph, in whose Church­yard is interred the famous Moliere, so well known for his Comedies.

Near St. Eustache is the great Market called la Halle which place ought to be avoided as much as may be, because of the continual Crowd of People that frequent it. Formerly they executed the Criminals here as they do now at the Greve. And we read in the History of Charles VI. that the Provost of Paris, named Montaigu, who was also great Treasurer, had in this place by means of the Duke of Bourgoyn his head chopt off; to the great regret of the Parisians, he be­ing a very good man. But the King abhorring this cruel Act of Injustice, which had been done in his Name during the time of his distraction, restored his Memory and Family again to their former honour; and the Celestins of Paris, to whom he had given his House of Marcoussy, went and took down his Body from the Gibbet at Monfaucon, four Months after his Death, and having performed his Funeral Offices in the most Magnificent manner they could, they interred his Body at Marcoussy, where they raised him a Mo­nument, which remains at this day. This was a rare example of gratitude and generosity in [Page 63] Monks, as is well observed by Juvenal des Ʋrsius Arch-Bishop of Reins, a faithful Historian of that Kings Reign.

Near the Rüe Montorgueil is the Hôtel de Bour­gogne; which House the ancient Dukes of that name formerly gaveto the Brotherhood of the Pas­sion established in the Church of Trinity-Hospital in the Rüe S. Denis, on condition that they should represent here interludes of Devotion; but since those times Peoples Relish being changed, they have since represented here other Plays of Profane Subjects. And at present the Italian Comedians are possessed of this House, since the union of the two Companies of French Players, which the King caused three or four years ago. This Thea­tre is perhaps one of the Ancientest of Europe, for it is thought that there have been publick Shows in this place six hundred years ago. In former times Comedies were only represented by wandring Companies of Pilgrims of the holy Sepulchre of Jerusalem, who were since called Jongleurs. These having no certain Residence used at the corners of Streets, to relate the Adventures which they had met with in their Travels, and People being concerned at their stories, and com­miserating the several dangers they had passed through, would give them very liberally conside­rable Alms. The ancient Dukes of Burgundy, seeing People take some pleasure in hearing them, he gave them a Room in his Hôtel, where all people might come and hear them with better conveniency than in the Street. But in time, these Masters of devout Subjects degenerated into profane Tales, and in effect so very profane that they became meer Farces and very irregular re­presentations. In such sort that Christianity could [Page 64] not honestly permit them. Thus it lasted during the ignorance of those Ages. And it was this that still gives occasion to those who do not con­sider the difference between this ancient sort of Comedies and those now acted, to consound all together. Whereas in truth the nature of Co­medy is so far changed, by the care of the great Cardinal de Richelieu, that there remains nothing of that which made it Condemned.

ADjoyning to the Rüe Montorgüeil, is the Rüe Mont-martre, and divers little streets run from one to the other, the Principal of which is the Rüe de Cleri in which stands the House of M. Bertelot, Intendant of the Houshold to Madam the Dauphiness. It is composed of two joyning Courts, of a very particular design. The Furniture is very handsom.

Near this is another House belonging to the Sieur Rolland, built after the designs of Monsieur des Argues a famous Architect: by the outward appearance you may easily conclude that it be­longs to one of an excellent Judgment. But the inside and the Front next the Court surpass all the rest. Nothing can be more regular nor bet­ter proportioned than the Staircase, which is raised upon a very odd sort of Plan, and where the Ar­chitect had need of all his Art and Study to have made it as it is.

This is all of note in this Quarter. Some other things there may be of which I have not spoke; but they appear of so little Consideration that they are not thought worth mentioning. In the next place we pass to

The Rue St. Denis.

This Street begins at the great Châtelet, which stands at the end of Pont au Change▪ as we have al­ready said. In this place the Civil and Criminal Courts are held for the City and Prevôtè (or Pro­vostship) of Paris; which Jurisdiction is at pre­sent divided into two parts, according to the course of the River, into the old and new Châtelet; and the Officers know their several Divisions.

The great Butchery, which is near the great Châtelet, is the oldest of all Paris, nay hereto­fore it was the only one. It did heretofore be­long to a Community of Townsmen, who made among themselves a kind of little Republick, which bore such Credit and Authority among the Inhabitants, that often times there happened great Disorders through the discontent of these People, who under the Reign of Charles VI. took part with the Factious. At present this Butchery is reunited to the rest of Paris. Further on is

The Hospital of the Nuns of St. Catherine, These are bound to entertain for one night such poor Maids as are in want. They are also obliged to bury the Bodies of those that are found dead in several places, and who are to be exposed some days at the Châtelet to see if they can be known.

Near this is the Church of St. Opportune. This was formerly a Priory of Nuns depending on the Abby of Almaneche in Normandy, with­in the Diocess of Seeze, but at present it is a Col­legiate Church of eight or ten Chanons, who here perform the Ecclesiastical Offices. Going still forward, you come to

The Fountain of the Holy Innocents.

This Fountain stands at the corner of the Rüe aux-Fers, a Street full of Mercers and Silk-men. It is the admiration of all that are skilled in Ar­chitecture and Sculpture, and without doubt it is one of the handsomest objects in its kind that can be seen, by reason of the Basses-tailles ex­tremely fine, both for the design and performance; most of the Figures represent Nymphs in divers Postures pouring Streams of Water out of their Urns. The Chevalier Bernin, who was of a Gust difficult enough, admired this Work, and prosessed that he had not seen any thing so fine in all France. It was made by the famous John Gougeon, who finished it in the year 1550. In the upper part you may read this Inscription

A little beyond stands the Church of the holy Sepulchre, which was first built for the Pilgrims of the Holy Sepulchre of Jerusalem, who were here entertained for some days. At present it is a Collegiate-Church the Collation of whose Cha­nons belongs to the Chapter of Nôtre-Dame. The Altar is very handsomly wrought, and the Picture over it was Monsieur Colberts gift, and Painted by Monsieur le Brun.

The Church of St. Leu, and St. Giles is a little further. In one of the Chappels here is interred the Mother of Monsieur the first President de La­moignon, [Page 67] whose Tomb of Marble is a well wrought thing and designed by Monsieur Girar­don, on it is a Bas-relief much esteemed. The Picture over the great Altar is also highly valued, it being the work of one Porbus a famous Painter.

A little higher is the Hospital of St. Jacques, on the other side of the way. It was founded by the Alms of certain Citizens who obtained a Licence of Lewis Hutin in the year 1315. It was formerly appointed for the entertainment and lodging of those who passed this way in their Journey to St. James in Galicia. At present the Revenue is annexed to the Invalides.

We say nothing of the Hospital of the Trini­ty nor of the Church of St. Saviour, there be­ing nothing curious in them, no more than there is in the Houses of the Penitent Nuns, and of those called Filles-Pieu which were built and endowed by St. Lewis; yet at the Church of these last you may observe the great Altar, which they have built of late after the same manner with that of St. Martin des Champs.

The Kings Statue.

In the Hôtel de St. Chaumont, where dwells Monsieur the Mareschal de la Feüillade, we ought to see the Kings Statue, which that illustrious Mareschal hath caused to be made at a great ex­pence representing the King in a Roman Habit Crowned with Lawrel. It is about eleven or twelve foot high and but of one block of Mar­ble, the greatest that was ever yet seen at Paris. The Pedestal on which it must be placed will be [Page 68] very high, and on the four sides will be several Bas-reliefs in Brass, representing the History of divers great Actions in this Kings Reign, as, the taking of Bezanzon, the famous Passage of the Rhine, the general Peace of Nuneguen, and the satisfaction which Spain made to the King in the year 1661. in relation to what passed at London about Monsieur the Mareschal de Estrade at that time Ambassador from France into England. Four Captives loaden with Chains lie at the bottom on a heap of ancient Arms. But of late the design of the Statue it self hath been changed; it will be of Brass, and in that habit which he wore at his Coronation, and which is always preserved in the Treasury of St. Denis, with Immortality behind him Crowning him with Laurel. This Monument is of a design most magnifick, and the Sieur des Jardins hath continually been em­ployed about it for above three years past. It is not yet known in what place this curious Statue will be fixed, where it may best be exposed to the publick view, and such a place is now under consideration. It is said however, that Monsieur the Mareschal de la Feüillade, who hath been at all this expence to demonstrate to Posterity the Gratitude he hath for the Kings Favours, hath very lately, for the sum of fourscore thousand Crowns, purchased the Hôtel de la Ferte-Seno­terre, to make a Square, in the midst of which he intends to place this Statue. Monsieur de San­teüil Chanon of St. Victor, one of the ablest Wits of this Age for Inscriptions in Verse, is now composing an Inscription for this piece which will acquaint Posterity with the Wonders of the pre­sent Reign.

[Page 69] A little higher you will see a Fountain, lately built with these verses engraven upon it,

The Gate of St. Denis.

Of all the new Gates which the Eschevins have built since they first undertook by the Kings Or­der to beautifie the City of Paris, this is the most magnificent. It is built upon the same Foundation where the old Gate stood, which was very inconvenient This new building is three­score and eleven foot high and of the same wide­ness. The overture of the Gate it self is four and twenty on each side. This overture is accompa­nied on each side with Pyramids charged with Trophies of War, under their Pedestals on each hand they have contrived a lesser Gate, as an additi­ [...]n to the great one in the middle; overwhose Arch [...] a Bass relief, representing on the town side, the [...]assage over the Rhine, and on that side next the Fauxbourg, the taking of Maestricht: and lastly, to render the whole more intelligible, under each Pyramid these inscriptions are engraven upon Ta­bles of white Marble on the side next the City,

On the side next the Faux-bourg, as follows

[Page 71] The Freese on each side hath this Inscription in Letters of Gold.

This Gate is of a most magnificent appearance, and is in its kind one of the fairest Works of the World. The Top is uncovered after the manner of the old Triumphal Arches which are seen at Rome. Monsieur Blondel designed all the new Gates, and also all the other Imbellishments that are raised in Paris of late years; the Inscriptions also are his, which make that Learned Persons abi­lity, appear extraordinary in all things.

In the Faux-burg we ought to see The House of the Fathers of the Mission of St. Laza­rus. Of late years these Fathers have raised much building for the entertainment of their nu­merous Society. Formerly this was a Maladrery, that is, an Hospital for Leprous People. But that Disease being ceased in this last Age, these Lazer houses have been converted to other uses, and this here being fallen into the hands of Father Vincent de Paul, Institutor of the Mission, it is become the head or principal Seat of all his Con­gregation. Whose Institution is to go abroad into remote Villages and there to instruct the poor Peasants, and also to teach the young Clerks the Ceremonies of the Church; hence it is that at the four times appointed yearly for Ordination, all those who are to be presented to the Arch-Bishop for Orders, ought first to pass here eleven days in exhortations and instructions, during which time these Fathers are obliged to entertain [Page 72] them freely, for on this condition they enjoy the Revenue of divers Lands that lye about their House.

The Rue St. Martin.

This Street is one of the longest and straitest of Paris. In the beginning of it, you find the Church of St. Jacques de la Boucherie, remarka­ble for its high Tower, built out of the Confis­cate Money of the Jews when they were expelled Paris. It is said that Hamel a famous Chymist was here interred, who found out the secret of the Philosophers Stone in the Reign of Philip Au­gustus. But it is more credible to believe those who think that the Jews being driven from Paris, he made use of that Money which they had entrusted in his hands and with it built the great Tower of this Church, and the Charnel-houses of St. Inno­cents, as we have already observed in its place. John Ferne, Physitian to Henry II. is also here interred. He was without dispute one of the learnedst Men in that Science that ever was in France, as one may easily conclude from those wonderful Cures which he performed in the Royal Family, chiefly on Catherine de Me­dicis. By which one may see the power of Art over Nature it self, when a Person hath once at­tained the true Mastery in that Profession. His Epitaph is is behind the Quire in these words.

The Crucifix which stands over the Door as you enter into the Quire, is the Work of Sarazin, and much esteemed.

The Church of St Mederic was formerly called S. Peters, but St. Mederic, a Monk of S. Bennet's Order, Native of Autun in Burgundy, dying here in the reputation of Sanctity, this Church took his name, after the same manner as other Chur­ches had done on like occasions. At present it is Collegiate, composed of twelve Chanons who are obliged to go to the grand Processions at Nôtre­dame, by reason this Church depends on that Ca­thedral.

St. Julien des Menestriers. Where at present a Community of Priests inhabit. Formerly this was an Hospital erected by two famous Musicians or Minstrels in the year 1330. for the Relief of poor sick Women.

Cross the way stands the Hall or Office of the Company of East-India Merchants, remarkable for certain Figures over their Gate. After that you come to

[Page 75] The Hôtel de Vic, which has been repaired ve­ry lately, and does now belong to divers particu­lar persons. Next you have

St. Nicolas des Champs, founded by King Ro­bert whose Palace stood near this place, on the ve­ry same Ground where now is S. Martins. This is the Parish-Church of a very large Parish, and full of People. M. Gassendi, one of the most famous Philosophers of this last Age, is here interred in a Chappel belonging to Monsieur de Monmort. Monsieur Bernier so well known for his profound Learning, and for those famous Travels which he made into the Indies, where he abode some time, hath translated his Works into French for the ease and satisfaction of those who do not understand the Latin Tongue. Near this is

St. Martin des Champs. This Monastery is compassed about with high Walls and Battlements after the ancient fashion, with Towers from space to space as they built in old time; the Church and rest of the Covent, have all the marks of great Antiquity. But the great Altar is according to the Modern, and designed by Mansard. It is composed of four Corinthian Pillars of Marble, of a disposition and proporti­on worthy so great a Master. The Order of St. Bennet have been a long time possessed of this house. And Monsieur the Abbot de Lionne, Son of the Secretary of State, is Prior hereof, which is a very considerable Revenue. Some think this house was founded by Philip the first or by his Father, King Robert, both which kept their Court in this place. But we read in some Au­thors that there were here even at that time very ancient Buildings, and that those Kings did only repair them for their own habitation.

[Page 76] The Gate of St. Martin, as well as the Faux­bourg on this side of the Town, take their names from the Priory of which we have been speaking. This Gate was built in the year 1674. almost at the same time with that of St. Denis. It is a kind of Triumphal Arch, consisting of three passages, of which that in the middle is higher than the other two. The work hath about fif­ty foot of Front, and as much in heighth, the Architecture is of that sort which is called Bos­sage rustique, carved with Bas-reliefs over the Arches, above which is a great Cornish of the Dorick Order, and over that an Attick on which are these Inscriptions:

[Page 77] On the side next the Faux-bourg, you may read this,

The Rampart that leads from this Gate to that of St. Denis, is planted with a large walk of Trees, which in some years time will make a most plea­sing place where to take the Air. The design is to continue it round about the Town, behind the Temple and so to the Port St. Anthoine. The Work is already so far advanced that Coaches may conveniently pass from the Porte St. Denis to the Bastille. The Publick is obliged for these ad­vantagious Works to M. Blondel who designed it thus.

In the Faux-bourg you may see the Church of St. Laurence, formerly an Abby of the Benedictin Order, but at present a Parochial Church, whose [Page 78] Parish extends a good way into the Town. The Portal of this Church is very handsom, and the Altar is of a very particular design, contrived by the Learned M. le Pautre so well known for his excellent Works in Architecture. The Orna­ments and Statues belonging to this Church de­serve to be well observed.

The Fair of St. Laurence begins on the Feast day of this Saint (Aug. 10.) and usually lasts a whole Month. Not long since it was used to be held in the Faux-bourg, but the Fathers of Saint Lazare having built up in a piece of Ground be­longing to them, certain Houses and Shops proper for this purpose, the Tradesmen found it conve­nient to remove thither, which yields those Fathers a considerable Revenue. Over against this is

The Convent of the Recollets a neat Place. Here you ought to see some Paintings of Father Luc, a great imitator of Raphael, among others the Picture belonging to the great Altar. Their Library is also very handsom, and the Books neatly bound.

Behind this Monastery stands the great Hospital of St. Lewis. It was sounded by Henry IV. in the year 1607. For those who were visited with the Plague. At present the Convalescents (or those sick who are recovering) of the Hôtel-Dieu, are removed hither for some Weeks, to take the Air.

Mont-Faucon is in the adjoyning Fields. This was formerly the place where they Executed Ma­lefactors, but serves at present for their Burying­place.

After we have gone thus far, we ought to re­turn again, and enter the Town at the nearest Quarter.

The Rue St. Avoye.

Saint Lewis whose Piety was resplendent in all things, built in this Street an Hospital for old de­crepid Women, who were attended by Beguines or Maids who observed the Rule of St. Begue a Native of Flanders, whose Church being dedi­cated to St Avoye, this Street took the same name, and hath kept it notwithstanding the alteration of the Hospital which hath been since con­verted to a Monastery of Nuns of the Order of St. Augustin.

Before you enter into this Street you ought to visit the fair House of the Sieur Jaba in the Rue de St. Mederic. It is very regularly built, the front on that side next the Court is adorned with Pilasters, and the Gate is in Bossage with Sculp­tures, which make a very handsom shew. The inside is after the same manner; and this house being taken all together, may pass for one of the handsomest that we can see. Here are some very good Pictures. And the Master knows such as well as any in Paris.

From hence we pass into the Rüe St. Avoye, where in the first place you come to the House of the Sieur Titon, neatly built.

A little higher and near the Fountain, in a House at present belonging to M. de Marillac, which promises no great matters by the outside, you ought to see the Stair case, the only thing in all the house that deserves your particular obser­vation. If you examine it as you ought, you will find that there can be nothing imagined finer, and that the disposition is extreme singular. All [Page 80] the Curious do agree that there are but few things in Paris that come near it, and tho it be but of Plaster, it notwithstanding excells those which have been built with much care, and richer Mate­rials.

Further on the same side of the Way is the Hô­tel de Montmorency, which still keeps the name of those illustrious Masters to whom it formerly belonged. Here lives at present Monsieur the President de Mesmes. Tho the outside be Go­thick, yet the apartments both above stairs and below, are of a very handsom disposition, the Rooms are en enfilade, and look upon the Gar­den; here is also one of the best furnished Libra­ries. And really this house hath some delights which you will hardly meet with elsewhere.

Cross the way is the Hôtel de Avaux, built by the deceased Monsieur the Comte de Avaux, so well known for those famous Embassies in which he was formerly employed. The Building is great and raised with magnificence. The Court is exactly square, enclosed with four Wings of Building adorned with great Corinthian Pilasters, reaching from the ground to the top of the Edi­fice, which makes the fairest and the greatest ob­ject one can desire; as you come in you see into the Garden through the doors, quite cross the house.

Passing still further, in the Rüe Michel le Compte, which lies on the left hand, dwells a Sculptor named Bertrard, in whose house you will find some pieces very well designed; he is best in Bas-reliefs of Plaster for Chimney-pieces, and he hath made some that are well esteemed. Returning again into the Rüe de St. Avoye, at the end of that Street you come to

The Temple.

This old Building still keeps the name of the Knights Templers of Jerusalem to whom it for­merly belonged. It is well known what a cruel dis­grace befel them under the reign of Philip the fair. The Croisades (or Pilgrimages to the Holy Land) being ceased, by reason of the Turks general In­vasion in all parts of Palestine, these Knights whose Institution was to conduct the Pilgrims to the Holy Places, thought themselves excused from that Office any longer, in which there was such apparent Danger: Hereupon they amassed up vast Riches, and withal became so proud and disso­lute, that as Historians say, Pope C [...]ement V. and Philip the fair agreed together to ruin and utterly abolish the whole Order, as a punishment for their Crimes and scandalous Debauchery. They began with the great Master, who with two of his Companions the most illustrious of the Order, the Pope under a specious pretext sent for out of the Isle of Cyprus. As soon as they were come to Paris they were committed to Prison, and being cruelly tortured till they confessed those in­famous Crimes which were pretended to be pro­ved against them, they were at last condemned to be burnt alive at the place now called the Greve.

It is reported, but with no great assurance, that at the instant of their Execution, Molay, who was the great Master, cited the Pope and the King to appear before God in a years time. Whether this Circumstance be true or not, certain it is that the Pope died in less then forty days and the King hardly lived to the years end.

[Page 82] From that time the Temple came to the Kings possession by Confiscation, who for some time kept here their Court, but afterwards gave it to the Knights Hospitallers of St. John of Jerusa­lem, who at last made this their Provincial House, for the French Province. Monsieur the Com­mandeur de Vendome, is at present Grand Prior, which brings him yearly a Revenue of above 20000 Crowns. This place is very spacious, in­closed about by ancient Walls; supported with Towers; the House which the Grand Prior inhabits, was built of late time by Monsieur de Souvray Grand Prior also; he was Son of the Mareschal de Souvray, Governor to Lewis XIII. But death prevented him from compleating the Edifice; so much as is done is of the design of the Sieur de Lisle, an able Architect, who had built quite round the Court, and made a Gallery sup­ported by Pillars, of which we see the beginning, had the Master lived; the Lodgings are at the further end of this Court, with two Stair-cases in the two Pavilions of the two Wings. All these things are of a very handsom Symmetry.

Within the inclosure of the Temple you ought to see the house of Monsieur Fremont de Ablan­cour, a Jeweller. Formerly there were many Jewellers who inhabited in this place, and made counterfeit Jewels very neatly, but of late years they have not been admitted to be here any lon­ger. Yet it is still to be observed that all the Artists who work here are exempt from the Ju­risdiction of the City Companies. And this is the reason that abundance of People who are no Free men and have not served their time, take refuge within the Privilege of this Place. Over the way is the Monastery of

[Page 83] The Nuns of St. Elizabeth. Whose Portal hath two rows of Pilasters, with Statues and other Ornaments well contrived. The inside of the Church is very well.

The Gate that leads into the Fields on this side the Town is taken down, and there is no doubt but another will be raised in the place, as handsom as the rest which have been new built elsewhere.

The Rue du Grand Chantier.

To see this Street in Order you ought to begin at the little Rüe des Deux Portes, in which you will see a new-built house, belonging to the Sieur Provost one of the Kings Secretaries, who has be­stowed a great deal of Care and Charges to make it so handsom as it is, in one of the vilest places in all Paris. On the Court-side it is adorned with Ionick Pilasters, and Sculpture well per­formed. The Stair-case (which stands in the middle of the Building, is) as light as it can be according to its Situation. But that which is most singular, and the handsomest thing in the house, is a great Closet, the Wainscot of which is set off with Pilasters gilt, the Pannels between which, are of inlaid Work, representing Vases full of Flowers, and which is still more ob­servable the Cieling piece and the Parquet are of the same workmanship. All these pieces appear so much the finer as they are the scarcer to be met with, they being almost the only things of this kind in Paris.

In the Street at the end of this you have the House called Les Billetes. Here formerly dwelt a [Page 84] Jew who by a most execrable impiety, burnt the Consecrated Hoast, having strook it through in several places with a Penknife. But by a singu­lar Miracle it was gathered up by an old Woman, who unexpectedly came into his House at that time, and by her was carried to the Curate of St. Johns Church, where ever after it was pre­served with great Veneration. This wicked Jew was for this Fact burnt alive, and his House given to the Carmelite Fathers where they have since that continued. The Learned Papirius Mas­son whose Writings are so well known among all Scholars, is here interred. The Knights of S. La­zarus do here use to make their Assemblies. And the Members of the French Academy perform here the Funeral Services for those who die out of their Society.

The Rüe des Billetes ends at the Rüe S. Croix de la Bretonnerie, so called from a Convent that stands there, founded by St. Lewis in the year 1268. In which he placed Religious Mendicants of the Order of St Augustin, but since that time several eminent and pious persons having confer­red upon them considerable Maintenance, they no longer beg, because they will not hinder those who have greater need, but live upon their Re­venues. The Wainscot Work of their Altar is very pretty, but that which is most remarkable is a Bas-relief of Marble over the Seats where the Religious sit, this was done by Sarazin and is highly esteemed. From hence you enter into

The Rüe du grand Chantier; the first thing that you see here is,

The Hôtel de Guise, built by the Princes of that Family, who bore so great a share in all the Transactions of these last Ages, that what relates [Page 85] to them makes the greatest part of the History of that time, especially in the Reign of Henry III. who put to death Henry Duke of Guise and the Cardinal his Brother, in the Castle of Blois, where the Estates were then assembled, and this he did in order to cure those Tumults and disquiets which at that time so much disturbed the Peace of France. This Hôtel takes up a great deal of Ground. The Gate is built after the old manner with two great round Towers. The Apartments are very handsom, since the considerable Repa­rations that have been made of late. Once we might have seen here most magnific Furniture, among which was a Suit of Tapistry representing the twelve Months of the year, of most exquisite Workmanship; this is at present at the Kings Garde-Meuble (or Wardrobe) and Monsieur Colbert hath caused it to be Copied. Madamoiselle de Guise, who at present dwells in this Hôtel, hath one of the best furnished Cabinets in Paris for Curiosities. In it are several pieces of Fila­grame enriched with Jewels, and several Minia­tures extremely fine. You may see there also di­vers pieces of Wooden Work of St. Lucie, re­presenting several Subjects of Devotion, cut ex­tremely fine; not to speak of several other Cu­riosities little inferiour to these. Cross the way is

The Church of the Fathers de la Mercy, a neat place. The Portal will be very handsom when finished, and the Altar is of a sort of Wainscot not ill wrought. The Institution of these is to go into Barbary and redeem Captives, like the Mathurins. And this they do by the assistance of Pious People who furnish them with considera­ble Sums for this purpose.

[Page 86] The Hospital of the Enfans Rouges (or Red Boys) built for poor Orphan Children, by Mar­garet Queen of Navarre, Sister of Francis I. in the year 1534. It is of late years united to the Hospital General.

It is observable that this Street is full of hand­som Houses, among which there is one at the Cor­ner of the Rüe de Quatre-fils designed by Mansard. The Front is extreme handsom, and set off with many Vases. Near this is the house of Monsieur de Grand-Maison where you will see very hand­som pictures, and a considerable quantity of Por­celanes, of the finest and best sorts. The Ma­ster to whom this House belongs, is of a very deli­cate Gust for curious things.

At the end of this Street you see the great square Tower of the Temple, with four other round ones, very high and discovered a great way off. They served heretofore for an Arsenal, be­fore that near the Celestins was built.

The old Rue de Temple.

This Street begins at the Rüe St. Antoine. The first thing to be seen is

The Hôtel de Effiat, a great building very well raised, composed of four wings with a great Court in the middle. It was built by the late Mareschal of that name Sur-Intendant of the Fi­nances, and great Master of the Artillery of France under Lewis XIII. Monsieur Pelletier Con­troller General of the Finances dwells here at pre­sent. After this you come to

[Page 87] The House of M. Amelot de Bisüeil Master of Requests. Here the Curious must rest them­selves, and take time to consider all the fine things that are here, for all that is in this House deserves to be exactly viewed and considered. The first door you come at gives you a pattern of all the rest: It is adorned with Statues, the Joiners Work it self is wrought with very good Bas-reliefs, and the Locks are of very curious and particular Art. The Court is in truth something of the least, but the Entry or passage on the right hand is extraordinary. It is adorned with Pillars and Busts, and paved with Marble. Still the Stair­case is more beautiful yet. Above it is open in manner of a Lanthorn, with a Balcony gilt and a Plafon over all full of Sculpture and the best designed Ornaments, and two great Statues in the Pallier. After this you enter into the great Hall, open on both sides, with Pictures between Window and Window, repre­senting Flocks and Herds in Grottoes on the Sea­side, of a very singular design, and very pleasing to the sight. That which deserves to be consi­dered most attentively is the Plafon, in the mid­dle of which is a great Picture done by an excel­lent Master, about this is a Freeze full of Orna­ments made of Stuc, upon a Ground of Gold, marvellously well wrought. Here you may see ancient Vases adorned with Triumphs, Sphinxes, Brasiers, Vizards, and in a word, all sorts of Gro­tesque, very odd and fanciful, and yet extreme handsom. A great Cornish runs round this Hall, whose Carving is admirable, at the further end is the Chimny of the same Workmanship all gilt, and over it a great Trophy after the old Roman manner. After this you enter into an Anti Cham­ber, [Page 88] where are several great Looking-Glasses, and from thence into a Chamber whose Plafon and Ornaments are still more rare and rich than all we have yet mentioned; the Furniture is of Crim­son Velvet, embroidered with Gold and Silver, and the Tapistry within the Alcove is embroidered extremely rich. The Parquet of the Estade is of inlaid Work, where in the middle among di­vers Ornaments are the Arms of the Master of the House. On the left hand is the Chappel, which is in Truth but little, but to make amends, it is adorned as much as possible with all things con­venient. The Pictures that are in it are painted by very good Masters. On the right hand you enter into the Cabinet, the last Room of this Apartment, and the most beautiful of all. It is furnished instead of Tapistry with Wainscot, ex­quisitely well gilded; on the Pannels of which are Vases with Festons of Flowers after nature, and divers little Birds flying about, after the man­ner of Vanbouck one of the ablest Masters of his time for this sort of Work.

The Plafon and the Chimny are adorned after the same manner. All the Chambers of which we have been speaking look upon a Court, whose sides are adorned with Architectures, Figures and Perspectives, painted in Fresquo. On the other side is the second Apartment joyned to this. Where first you find a magnificent Chamber af­ter the Italian manner, whose Plafon is opened Cupulo-wise, right Angular, with a Balastrade above, very well gilt. Over the Chimney is a Bas­relief painted over like Brass, it is of extraordi­nary Workmanship, and represents Jason Sacri­ficing on the Sea shore in order to obtain a hap­py return to this Country, after he had got away [Page 89] the Golden Fleece. From this Chamber you go into the Gallery, whose sides are set off with Co­rinthian Pilasters, and with Pictures representing the Story of Psyche, painted by Corneille; so al­so was the Plafon, which is one of the finest that can be seen.

On the right hand is a small Library, whose Ornaments suit perfectly well with the disposi­tion of the place. In fine, nothing is wanting to this House, all is surprisingly neat, and you see nothing but what is Magnifick, and what deserved admiration, for even those things which in other places are of the least account, have here their peculiar Beauties, as the Window-Boards, which are of Cedar inlaid with Ebony and Ivory. The Locks and Bolts are of polished Steel, so deli­cately wrought as if they were of Silver; not to speak of the Moveables, as the Tables and Look­ing-glasses, which are inriched with Tortoise-shell and Ivory, and adorned with Mouldings of Brass gilt, and carved [...] delicately.

One cannot see in any other place more curi­ous Painting finished with more pains than here. In short those who have examined all the Beauties of this House do all agree that a greater number of delicacies cannot possibly be collected in so small a place, and that the Master to whom they belong could not have brought 'em into this condition without a very considerable Expence, and a perfect knowledge and skill in the choice of what is truly excellent. This curious Build­ing is of the Sieur Cottard's designing.

Over against this stands the Hôtel d'O, at pre­sent converted into a Convent of Nuns of the Order of St. Austin.

[Page 90] On the left hand, in the Rüe des blancs-Manteaux, you see the Convent that gave the Street this name, in which is nothing singular un­less it be the Pavement of the Quire which is all of Marble. At present it is inhabited by Monks of St. Bennet; formerly they were called Guilli­mins, being first founded by St. William, who ordered them to wear white Cloaks, which they afterwards left off.

There is nothing more considerable in the old Rüe du Temple.

From hence you enter into the Rüe Barbette, where you have the Hôtel de Estrees. This stands near the place where was formerly the Palace of Isabel de Bavieres, Wise of Charles VI. King of France, not far from which place happened the Murder of Lewis Duke of Orleans, Assassina­ted by the Duke of Burgundy, which caused all those Divisions between those two Houses, and was the Original of those horrible troubles, which troubled France, during many years, and never ended till towards the conclusion of the Reign of Charles VII.

Near the Capuchins du Marais in the Street called Rüe de Touraine is a great piece of Per­spective, in the Garden of the Sieur Turmeny. It is a Sun-dial placed on a Piece of Rustick Ar­ehitecture among Trees, which at a distance makes a very handsom shew.

Over the Fountain in the Rüe de Poitou, not far from hence, you may read this Inscription,

From the old Ruë du Temple yo go to the great Street of St. Lewis, passing through the Ruë de la Couture St. Gervais, in which is a mag­nific house built by the Sieur Aubert, where lives at present the Venetian Ambassador. This house is one of the fairest and most capacious, and the Stair-case one of the best contrived that can be seen. All the Ornaments of this building are very becoming.

The Rue St. Louis.

The first thing you discover at the end of this Street is, the Convent of the Nuns of Calvary, of St. Bennet's Order. The Church is very hand­som: the Altar adorned with Pictures represent­ing in three pieces the History of our Savious Passion. As you go on you come to

The Hôtel of the Cardinal de Boüillon, Great Almoner of France. This was formerly called the Hôtel de Turenne. Here is a piece of Ar­chitecture [Page 92] of the invention of the Sieur des Ar­gues, worthy of admiration. Here is at present a numerous Library, and magnific Furniture. On the same side of the way is

The Hôtel de Guenegaud, great and very well built, with several other Houses as far as the place Royal, which are all of an agreeable Symme­try, and make this Street very uniform through­out.

Of late years they have built here a Fountain, and placed upon it two Tritons, in Sculpture, under whom are these Verses of Monsieur de Santeüil:

The Place Royal.

This place was built in the Reign of Henry the Great: The Houses that are erected about it, are very beautiful and of the same symetry. They take up all that Ground which was formerly the Gar­dens belonging to the Palais des Tournelles which stood on the side of the Rampart, in which Palace Francis II. and several other Kings his Predeces­sors kept their Courts. But after that unhappy accident which befel Henry II. who was wound­ed to death by the Earl of Montgemmery in the fatal Turnament then celebrated in the Rüe St. Antoine upon the Marriage of Isabel of France to Philip II. King of Spain, Catherine of Medicis Widow of the deceased King sold this Palace, which had been first built by Charles V. to divers particular Persons, who turned it into many Tenements; but the whole Street which runs along near the Rampart still keeps the an­cient name.

The place of which we were speaking is exactly square, composed of six and thirty Pavilions raised of the same Symmetry; the materials are of Brick and Free-stone, raised upon a long row of Ar­ches, under the shelter of which one may walk round the place. In the middle of these Build­ings they have left a great void piece of Ground, which at present is about to be converted into a Garden and is to be inclosed with a Palisade of Iron, into which none may enter but those be­longing to the Houses about the Place, who only are to have keys. Report says this Work will cost a hundred Pistolls for every House, which [Page 94] we may easily believe, if we consider the vast quan­tity of Iron which it will require. In the middle of this Garden stands the Statue in Brass of Lewis XIII. on Horseback raised on a great Pe­destal of white Marble, on the four sides of which you may read the following Inscriptions.

In the forepart

On the hinder part, next the Minimes.

On the right side.

[Page 98]On the left side.

[Page 99] This Horse is one of the most beautiful pieces that can be seen. The famous Daniel de Voltere, an Italian, one of the ablest Sculptors of his time, made it for Henry II. but it was never set up for that King, by reason of those many troubles which overflowed all France during the following Reigns.

The most considerable Houses, and in which you will find most Curiosities, in this place, are

The Hôtel de Richelieu, in which are very excellent Pictures of divers Masters, but above all of Rubens, a famous Flemming, whose Works are highly esteemed by the curious, because of that beauty of design, and vivacity of colouring, in which he has been more successful than all other Painters. You will see in this Hôtel more than in all Paris beside: and with these very rich moveables.

The House of Monsieur the Marquess de An­geau, Governor of Touraine. On the Wall of this House is a piece of Perspective representing certain Architecture in Forest, in a very exqui­site manner. With this you may observe at the further end of the Garden a Pavilion not ill built. The great Stair-case is very lightsom, and all the rest of the House extreme neat. All which does sufficiently declare the Master to be a person of a delicate Gust.

Almost over against this on the other side of the place stands the Hôtel de Chaunes. One en­tire Wing of the Building has been raised of late years, in which may be observed much Regulari­ty. At the bottom of the Court lies the Garden, in which you have some Water-works, and at the further part of it a piece of Perspective which answers to the Gate, and as you enter makes a cu­rious [Page 100] shew. Monsieur the Duke of Chaunes, Go­vernor of Britanny dwells here.

The Convent of the Minims.

These Fathers were setled here in the year 1590: Their Church is one of the neatest and lightest in Paris, and tho the Portal is not finished, yet that hinders not but that it is very remarkable, in regard the famous Mansard made the design. The Pillars of the first Order are Doricks; but these Fathers having occasion for a Tribune they caused one to be raised over this Portal, and adorned it with Pillars on the outside, which do not at all agree with that part which was begun by such an able Master. Their Altar is also of the better sort, contrived with Corinthian Pillars of black Marble, flatted, the only in all France of this manner. The Ornaments are not superfluous; the Statue of the blessed Virgin is on one side of it, and that of St. Francis of Paula the Founder of this Order, on the other: both these Statues are well wrought. There are several Chappels in this Church well worth seeing, as that of M. the Duke of Vie-ville, whose Altar is all of Marble, in which Chappel there are several Tombs of divers Persons of that Family, of the same materials; That of Monsieur le Camus, the Wainscot in which is gilt very neatly; on one side of the great Altar is the Chappel of St. Francis of Pau­la, where the life of that Saint hath been painted by the Sieur Viete. Over against this is the Chappel of Monsieur le Jay first President of [Page 101] Parliament; and lastly that in which is the Tomb of Madame the Dutchess of Angoulesine, curi­ously adorned with Marble Figures.

Within the House, you ought to see tho Li­brary, where are some Books of no small value. But that which is most remarkable is a Collection of Rituals, gathered by M. de Launoy, Doctor in Theology, one who hath justly pass'd for one of the ablest Criticks of our times in Church-An­tiquities, who by his profound knowledge has cleared many things of which we had but very obscure Notions. He lies interred in the Church belonging to these Fathers, to whom he bequeath­ed by his Will two hundred Crowns, and half his Library The following Epitaph was made for him by Monsieur Clement Counsellor in the Court of Aydes and is to be placed on his Tomb.

There are also in this Library certain pieces of Opticks made by the famous Father de Niseron, a Parisian, one of the most knowing Men in this Science that hath perhaps ever appeared in this Age. He hath left us a Volume of that Art, very much estemed; it was he also who caused to be painted in the Dortoir of this House, the Figures of St. John, and the Magdelain, which Figures extend the whole length of the two Gal­leries, and which they cannot see in their true proportion, but from a point marked for you to stand in. This Learned Person had enriched the Publick with many other things had not death ta­ken him from us in an Age wherein he did but begin to discover his wonderful wit and parts.

[Page 103] The Refectory of this Convent is very hand­som, and of late years has been painted round about with Landskips and Solitudes, which en­tertain the thoughts of the Religious while they are at their meals with Ideas remote from the af­fairs of this World. It is well known that these Fathers live in great austerity, and that the de­sign of their institution hath taken in almost all that is rigorous in the other Orders.

Before you leave the Marais du Temple, you ought to observe that the greatest part of the Houses in this Quarter have been built within these fifty or sixty years, and that the Ground on which they stand was formerly a marish and em­ployed in great Gardens which furnished Paris with Roots and Kitchin Herbs. At present it is a handsom Quarter, whose habitations are very conveniently built, and therein a great number of Persons of Quality inhabit.

The Rue St. Antoine.

After you have seen the Maraise du Temple, you ought to pass next to the Ruë St. Antoine, one of the longest and handsomest Streets of all the Town, and which is ordinarily appointed for Shews and Entries for Embassadors. It was through this Street that the Queen made her first Entry, and through which that famous Carousel in the year 1661. made their glorious March. The Popes Legate who came hither in the year 1664. for whom a most Magnifick Entry was appointed, passed this way to the Church of Nôtre-Dame. In the past Ages this Street was also used for the [Page 104] like matters. Our Kings did here use to run at the Ring, and make their Justs and Turnaments, but since the fatal Accident that befel Henry II. these Sports have been left off. To see this Street in Order we ought to begin at

The Greve.

This is the only place in Paris where they make the publick shews of Joy and Triumph. Here are made the Bonfires on the Eve of St. John Baptist, and at other times when France hath gained any Victories over her Enemies.

The Hôtel de Ville takes up one side of this Place. It was built in the Reign of Francis I. who laid the first Stone himself. The Archite­cture is however a little Gotique; that is to say, it is not altogether according to the gust of the present age, in which the old Roman and Greek proportions are studied with more care and ex­actness, Artists endeavouring every day to re-e­stablish this curious Science in the same perfecti­on that it had under the Reign of Augustus. The Statue of Henry IV. is placed over the Gate, re­presented on Horseback in Demi-bosse, upon a Ground of black Marble. The Horse was copi­ed from that of Marcus Aurelius at the Capitol. The Court is but small and enclosed with Build­ings of the same symmetry. Under one of the Arches at the further end of the Court there is a Statue of the King in the Habit of Hercules, treading under foot that Discord which would have disquieted the beginning of his happy Reign. On the Pedestal which is of Marble as is also the Statue, they have cut some Inscriptions, but such [Page 105] as are not thought material to be repeated here, in regard they contain nothing remarkable, nor recount any passage of History that can be useful to the curious.

In the Rooms there are some Pictures repre­senting the Prevosts des Marchands and the Es­chevins of the past Age, and of this also in their proper habits. At the two ends of the great Hall over the two Chimneys there are placed the Por­traits of the King in his Royal Robes and his Scepter in his hand. In this Hall they Assemble to elect their Prevosts des Marchands and Esche­vins. The Windows that look upon the Greve at publick Shews and Rejoicings, are filled with Persons of the greatest Quality, who are some­times treated here very magnificently at the Char­ges of the City.

To make the Entry into the Greve more con­venient, they have within five or six years last past opened a way from the Pont de Nôtre-Dame to this place all along the River, which they have adorned with a very handsom Key of Free-stone. They have also built on this Key several Houses of the same Symmetry, inhabited by good Trades­men. This beautiful Enterprize was begun un­der the Prevost-ship of Monsieur Pelletier, at present Controller-general of the Finances, and all that was performed under his administration has been as well for the Publick good, as for the Beauty of the City. The People have as an eter­nal mark of their acknowledgment, given this place the new name of le Quay Pelletier, though through a modesty that hath had but few exam­ples, he himself would never suffer his name to appear in any of those Works which have been raised by his order. As you enter on that side [Page 106] next the Bridge of Nôtre-dame you will see the following Inscription in black Marble, over which is the Kings Picture in a Medaillon.

As you go from the Greve you pass by the Church of St. John, formerly a Chappel depen­ding on that of St. Gervais, and which was built, as some will have it in the Reign of Charles the Fair in the year 1326. That which deserves particular observation is the Vault that supports the Organs which is of a manner really very hardy, and the little door next the Cloister which is of the Ionick Order.

The following Epitaph will not be unpleasant to the Curious to read, for they will find it ex­traordinary, it is near the Crucifix of this Church.

A little further is the Church of St. Gervais, It is one of the ancientest Parishes in Paris, as may be seen in the History of St. Germain, Bishop of this Town, who lived in the year 578. In favour of which he wrought here a Miracle as Fortunatus Bishop of Pottiers reports in his History. The Body of this Church is very well built, but according to the Gothick way, with high raised Roofs, and Chappels round about; in one of which under the Croisée on the left hand, you may see some Paintings after the man­ner of le Sueur who was one of the best Painters of this Age, next to the famous Poussin, and of whom we shall have occasion to speak more at large hereafter; the Paintings in the Windows which represent the Martyrdom of St Gervais and the Picture over the Altar are of his hand. The Tapistry which they expose here on the great [Page 108] Feasts are very well wrought; the Originals from which these were Copied are in the Nave of the Church, and were painted by the said le Sueur and Champaigne. They represent the History of St. Gervais and St. Protais, and the manner how their holy Bodies were found at Millain through the Prayers of St. Ambrose, who mentions this matter in his Epistles.

But this is not that which ought most to em­ploy the Curious, the magnificent Portal will entertain their view with much greater pleasure, and make them acknowledge that they cannot elsewhere see any thing more handsom or regular. It is composed of three Greek Orders, one over the other, viz. of the Dorick, the Ionick, and the Corinthian, whose proportions are so handsom and so exact, that in the judgment of the famous Cavalier Bernin himself, there is nothing more finished and perfect in all Europe. The Pillars are fluted, without any other Ornaments than what are proper to themselves. These three Or­ders compose a Fabrick of a very great heighth and perfectly pleasing to the sight: Had the place before it been larger, nothing had been wanting to set off this Work in all its magnificence. The Reputation of this Building belongs to the Sieur de Brosse, he who made the designs for the Pa­lace of Luxemburg, and the Temple at Charen­ton. However we must not think him the only Artist, we must know that Clement M [...]tezeau was employed with him; this is he who under­took the Ditch of Rochel, as hath been already mentioned when we treated of the Gallery at the Louvre, and who was one of the ablest Ar­chitects of his time. He was born of a conside­rable Family at Dreux, and was much esteemed [Page 109] by Cardinal de Richelieu, who perfectly well un­derstood Persons merit. Monsieur de Fourcy, Counsellor in the Parliament, and Intendant-ge­neral of the Buildings under Lewis XIII. Father to Monsieur the President de Fourcy, a person more renowned at present for his Merit and Probi­ty, than for the dignity of his Charge, was at that time honorary Church-warden of this Church; It was he that undertook this great Work, toge­ther with M. de Onon and M. de Saint Genis, his Collegues in the Office. Lewis XIII. laid the first Stone, and in a very little time this mar­vellous Structure was finished as we now see it.

From this Church of St. Gervais, to the mid­dle of the Rüe St. Antoine is nothing conside­rable. You pass before the Church-yard of S. John where is at present a Market-place. Here formerly stood the Hôtel of Pierre de Craon who murder­ed the Constable Olivier du Clisson in the Reign of Charles VI. whose House was demolished and rased to the Ground in the year 1392. as a pu­nishment for that Fact. After this you come to

The Hotel de Beauvais, which shews a very handsom Front to the Street, adorned with three Balconies. The Masons Work is en Bossage with very neat Ornaments. The Gate is large, and tho the Court be but very small it is howe­ver compassed about with Buildings where the several Orders of Architecture are well observed. The Stair-case is supported with Pillars, and em­bellished with many Ornaments. As for the A­partments they are extreme pleasant and com­passed about with a long Balustrade of Iron, leading quite round the Court, into which the doors open.

[Page 110] As often as there hath been any great Sight to be held in the Rüe St. Antoine, this fair house hath been made use of by those of the Royal Fa­mily. At the famous Carousel that was in the year 1661. a great number of Princesses and Ladies of the Court placed themselves here to see that magnificent Train pass by from the Place Royal where they assembled to go to the open place before the Palace of the Tuilleries, in which they were to perform their Courses.

Over against this stands the Church of little St. Antoine, which hath nothing in it of Beauty, and its very simplicity hath made it sufficiently known that it formerly served for an Hospital; and was founded for those who were afflicted with that Epidemical Disease called St. Anthonys Fire. A Distemper which hath been now ceased this two or three Ages. The Confraternity of St. Claude hath been a long time established in this Church, but it is much decayed from what it was in former times, for it is evident that under the Reign of Charles VI. their Founder, all the great Lords of the Court, caused their names to be here inrolled after his Example, and made con­siderable Presents in favour of this Saint. The Community of these Fathers is but small and does not ordinarily exceed the number of twenty Religious men, they are Chanons regular of S. Au­gustin, and bear on their Breasts the Letter T. much like a Cross. The head of their Order is in Dauphine not far from Vicnne. On the same side of the way is

The Hòtel de St. Pol, where formerly our Kings inhabited, as some Historians would make us believe But at the same time others would have it that the Palace des Tournelles was so cal­led [Page 111] before it was rebuilt by Francis I. who cau­sed a great number of small Towers to be placed there upon the Walls. In short, this Hôtel is at present inhabited by Madame de Chavigny, wi­dow of the Secretary of State so called. It is one of the greatest Houses in all Paris. The A­partments look upon the Garden and are magni­ficently Furnished: The Pictures and such like beautiful Ornaments are here in abundance. The Court is great and can contain many Coaches. However one thing is wanting in this House and that is a great Stair-case. Monsieur de Chavigny had a design to have built one, and continued some other Works that seemed imperfect, but Death suffered him not to perform what he pro­posed. However that hinders not but this house is notwithstanding one of the most capacious and convenient; it is also most delicious in Sum­mer, by reason of that pleasing Odour which comes from the Orangers especially in the lower Rooms next the Garden▪

The great Jesuites.

The Church of these Fathersis dedicated to St. Lewis, and is one of the fairest and best adorned of all Paris. It is built after the Modern, with a great Dome or Cupolo raised over it. The Co­rinthian Order is observed throughout the whole Work, very regularly, and the Portal is extreme­ly well placed, in regard it stands exactly over against the end of the Rüe St. Catherine: It is composed of three Orders of Corinthian Pilllars [Page 112] placed over one another, which a French mea­sure containing about six foot English.make in all about twenty two Toises in heighth. Here is no want of Or­naments, for all parts of this Stru­cture are so filled up with Palms, Feuillages, and Cyphers that it makes such a con­fusion as is not at all pleasing to the Curious in Architecture. You see by the Inscription on the Freese of the first Order that Cardinal de Rich­elieu was a Benefactor to the Fabrick of this Por­tal

Lewis XIII. laid here the first Stone, being accompanied by M. de Gondy, the first Arch-Bishop of Paris; on which Stone was engraven the following Inscription,

The inside of this Church answers well to that without. A Gallery runs round over the Chap­pels having a Balustrade of Iron on the top of the Cornish, by which Gallery you may go round the Church. The great Altar is composed of three ranks of Corinthian Pillars of black Marble, whose Capitals are of Brass gilt. On each side of the Altar are the Statues of St. Lewis and Charle­magne. But to say the truth, this Altar is a little [Page 114] too low, which makes it sad and obscure. Yet it being on the Festivals enlightned with a great number of Candles the defect is the less taken notice of. The Tabernacle which they expose on such days is of Silver set off with Feuillages and other Ornaments Silver and gilt, and the Workmanship is of greater value than the mate­rials. One cannot see in any Church of Paris, a greater number of Reliquaries, Silver Vessels, Candlesticks, Branches, Perfuming-pots, and such like things all of Silver or Silver Gilt. Nay there are some all of Gold; but that which is most remarkable is a great Sun of Gold inriched with Diamonds and great Pearls, of a very consi­derable price. The Ornaments are almost of as great Beauty, among which there is one that re­presents the adoration of the three Kings embroi­dered with Pearls, and others of very rare work­manship, where Gold and Silver have not been spared. In fine, nothing is wanting to the mag­nificence of this Altar; besides these Fathers have such able Sacristans that they invent every day some new manner of Imbellishment. All the Chappels are adorned with Marble Pillars, and Pictures of those Saints to whose memory the several Chap­pels are Dedicated. On the left side of the great Altar, under an Arch, is the heart of Lewis XIII. supported by two great Angels under a Crown of Silver gilt. You may see there these two In­scriptions, on the Pillars of each side; viz. on one side

Over against this is placed the other Inscription which shews that this Monument was raised by the pious care of Anne of Austria his illustrious Queen.

[Page 116] There are four Bas-reliefs of white Marble, re­presenting the Cardinal Virtues, very well wrought.

Under the Dome, on the same side stands a Magnificent Monument erected to the Memory of Henry de Bourbon, Prince of Conde: which Monument Monsieur Perrault, who had been his Intendant, out of a generous gratitude, and with a great expence, caused to be raised to the Glory of that Prince. It consists of the four Virtues in Brass as great as the life, upon Pedestals of black Marble; with Bas-reliefs also in Brass▪ re­presenting the renowned actions of that Prince. These last are placed about the Chappel instead of a Balustrade, upon a Foundation of black Marble. On each side of the Overture which serves as a kind of entry are placed two Cupids, one of which holds a Shield in which are the Arms of Bourbon, on the other a Table on which is graven this Inscription

All the Pieces are of Brass and perfectly well wrought, Monsieur Sarasin whose Work it is, hath in this Monument discovered his excellent Genius in designing. Here is inclosed the heart of that Generous Prince, which in truth the Fathers Jesuits had gained long before his Death. All men know what a particular affection the House of Bourbon have always had for this Society. The Car­dinal of Bourbon, Uncle of Henry the Great was the first who established them at Paris. He bought for them the Hôtel de Amville for the sum of 13000 Livers, which the Receivers of the Abby of St. Germain advanced, and at his Death he left to these Fathers his whole Library which con­sisted of very good Books. But till the Reign of Lewis the Just they never had but a small Chappel, and no very commodious House. That great King, whose Piety was extraordinary, be­gun their Church as we now see it, and Cardinal de Richelieu contributed much to its Perfection as we have already said. Father Marlange Na­tive of Lyons, of this Society, gave the Design, but the Work was carried on by Father de Rant, a [Page 118] Lorrainer, who cast away many things which were in the first design.

I shall not say any thing here in praise of this Society, to do that were not only to deviate from the Subject of this Book, but it is really an Ar­gument reserved for much more Eloquent Pens than mine. I will only acquaint the Reader that those of this House who are of greatest Fame, are Father Bourdaloue, whose Sermons are extreme­ly frequented, and heard with much profit and applause. His true Character is Morality, which he teaches with such Eloquence, so delicate, so lively, and so penetrating, that he does even ra­vish his Auditors: Father Girou in a different way of Preaching is no less famous, and de­serves no less praise: Father Menetrier, who to­gether with his Learned manner of Preaching, enjoys several other excellent Talents; he hath published a great many Volumes upon the Art of Blazon, which he has reduced to certain Prin­ciples infinitely more clear and more Methodical than ever any other Author that writ before him, express'd on this Subject; Not long since he published the Original of Opera's, and he hath promised some other things which no doubt will be received by the Publick, with no less applause than those already Printed: Father Jourdan is also of this house, he hath composed the Original of the Royal Family of France, consisting of three Volumes in quarto, and Printed by Cra­moisi, in which one may find many particulars touching the French History, which the modern Authors have neglected or not discovered,

In that little place which lies over against this Colledge they have repaired a Fountain, formerly called the Fountain of Biragues, upon which this Inscription is graved.

The Rue de la Couture St. Catherine.

In this Street which stands just opposite to the Portal of the Jesuits Church, you see

The Church of St. Catherine, which gives name to the Street. It was built in the Reign of St. Lewis. Here are some Tombs very considera­ble; that of the Chancellor d'Orgemont, who lived in the Reign of Charles V. and is much spoken of in the History of that Reign; that of the Car­dinal of Biragues, Native of Millain, who lies buried near his Wife: he was Chancellor un­der Charles IX. and Henry III. and very fa­mous for his great Equity and Moderation; he was used to say of himself that he was a Cardi­nal without a Title, a Priest-without a Benefice, and a Chancellor without Seals: to which others did add a Judge without Jurisdiction, and a Magistrate without Authority. He died in the year 158 [...] ▪ [...]ged th [...]escore and fourteen years, his Tomb stand [...] [...]n a Chappel; it is all of Marble very well [...] Corinthian Pil­lars and [...] Chan [...]ns Regul [...] [...] Order of the Congregation [Page 120] of St. Geneviéue du Mont inhabit this House. The Portal of the Church is very pretty, adorn­ed with Architecture like Pilasters, between which are placed several Statues, and Bas-reliefs above, which make a very handsom shew as you enter, though the Rules of Art are not observed, nor the ordinary practice, which forbids the placing of Triglifes upon a Frize that is supported by Corinthian Pillars. Further on you see

The Hôtel de Carnavalet, whose Portal is the Workmanship of the famous Gougeon. It is a kind of Bossage with two Bas-reliefs above it. This Work hath been so much adorned by the skilful that the great Mansard when employed to finish this Portal, would not touch that which had been begun by such an able Master, he only proceeded to make the second Story to correspond as we see it, but it is not finished neither. The Building on the Court side is adorned with great Figures in demi-relief which are exactly well de­signed. Near this House is

The Hôtel de Angoulesme, whose Architecture is composed of great Corinthian Pilasters, which take up the whole heighth of the Building, and which are the first of this kind that have been raised in Paris, and have served as a Model to some Architects that have copied from hence their Works of this kind that have been since made.

At the end of St. Catherines Street of which we are now speaking, you ought not to forget to see the House of Monsieur de Ville an Archi­tect, who has omitted nothing to render the Building pleasing and neat. The Stair-case is on one side of the Court. At the further end of the Garden are five Statues, Laocoon, Hercules, Flo­ra, Juno, and Jupiter, which are very good [Page 121] Copies from those at Rome. They were brought from St. Maude near Vincennes, where Monsieur Fouquet had placed them, who was known to be a person very curious in Collecting good things. There are also eight others equal to these which at present remain in a low room in the house and are not yet placed in the Garden. After this di­gression you ought to return to the Rüe St. An­toine and view

The Hôtel de Suilly, whose Buildings are ex­treme regular. The Door is set off with Dorick Pillars, over which they have left a Plat-form, partly to make the Court more airy and partly that the apartments may be the more exposed to view. Which apartments are very well furnished and contrived extreme regularly.

The Nuns of St. Mary are a little further, and near the Hôtel de Maienne, which makes the Corner of the Rüe du petit Mase. Their Church is but small, but one of the neatest in all Paris: It is a Dome of reasonable heighth, supported with Corinthian Pilasters making four Arches, the great Altar is placed under the furthermost Arch, opposite to the Door. The Tabernacle is of ex­quisite Workmanship, and the Pictures repre­senting the Visitation is of an excellent Master. On Festival days they expose on this Altar a great quantity of rich Plate, and an Ornament in the middle of which is the Portrait of St. Francis of Salles their Institutor, set off and adorned with great Pearls. The Quire where the Nuns sing takes up one side, and the Chappel of that Saint the other; the design of this Church being con­trived by the famous Mansard, cannot chuse but give great satisfaction to the Curious. As you go out from this Church you see

[Page 122] The Bastille, which fronts the Rüe St. Antoine. This is an antient Citadel composed of eight Tow­ers round and very high, and Tarassed on the top, on which the Prisoners who are used with least Severity are permitted to walk and take the Air. It was built in the Reign of Charles VI. in the year 1360. by one Jaques Aubriot at that time Prevost of Paris. At present it serves for a Prison to those who are Criminals of State. And Monsieur de Bezemeaux the Governor is obliged to maintain a Company of Soliders to guard the place.

The Gate of St. Antoine.

This Gate stands on one side of the Bastille and leads to the Faux-bourg St. Antoine. It was built for Henry II. and dedicated to him as a Triumphal Arch. Some years since they have beautified this Gate considerably, in pulling down another old one near this place which caused con­tinual Stops, and in adding to this two other new ones which make the passage much more easie, and give more room for Coaches and Carts to en­ter. One may see by a small Inscription which is still preserved, that this Building was the Work of Metezeau, the worthy Father of him whom we have formerly mentioned, he was a man of extraordinary ability, as we may easily conclude from this Work, which in its kind is one of the finest things that can be seen. The famous Mon­sieur Blondel who had the Care of Ordering all the new Works which have of late been raised at [Page 123] Paris, did not think that any thing could be ad­ded to its beauty, and was contented only to make a new passage on each side, that that in the mid­dle might be the freer. The hansomest Front looks towards the Suburbs. It is in the manner of Ru­stick Bossage, with a great Entablement or Cor­nish of the Dorick Order which runs along all the Work, over which is an Attique. The Statue of the King stands above all, and two small Py­ramids on each hand at the utmost edges. On the Attique these Inscriptions are ingraved

But that which the Curious esteem more, are two pieces of Sculpture on each side the Arch of the first Work, and certain Figures of the man­ner of Jean Gou [...]on representing Rivers and an­cient [Page 124] Deities. On that s [...]de next the Town they have made the same thing, imitating the Arch­work in the middle of the Gate, which the Ar­chitects have found to be so singular and hand­som that this here hath given name to all the other Gates that have been built since. Between the three Arches under which we pass, they have placed in Bas-relief a Copy of that Medal which the Town caused to be stampt for the King, representing his Majesty with this Inscription:

On the Reverse of the Medal, which is placed on the other side, is represented Virtue sitting, and leaning on a Shield on which are the Arms of the Town with this Motto

And at the Bottom ‘LUTETIA.’ ‘PARIS.’

[Page 125] Between the G [...]te and the Bastion it has been thought necessary to make a Rampe or Winding ascent forty eight foot large, to make the access to the Rampart more easie and convenient. At the entry, near the Door of a little neat Garden, is placed the following Inscription, looking two ways. On that side next the Faux-bourg,

On that side next the Town you read these Words

The Rampart is planted with four Rows of Trees, which make a very pleasing Walk, and leads to St. Martins Gate. It is composed of one great Ally, and of two counter-Allies; that in the middle is threescore foot, and the other two between eighteen and twenty foot large. The Gate of St. Lewis which was lately new built, stands about the middle of this Rampart, on which Gate you may read this Inscription,

All these Works are of Monsieur Blondel's de­signing, who also made the Inscriptions.

Without the Porte St. Antoine, as you enter into the Faux-Bourg, is made a great round E­splanade, on which they have placed two great Statues sitting upon Trophies of Arms.

All the Faux-bourg St. Antoine consists of three great Streets only, namely the great Rüe Saint Antoine, which lies in the middle, the Rüe de Charonne, and the Rüe de Charenton. In [Page 127] the middle Street, which is the fairest, is the new Hospital built for exposed Children. Many pious persons have contributed to this excellent Charity, among others, the Chancellor de Aligre's Lady, who hath there an Apartment. The Church and the publick buildings of the House are not yet quite finished.

The Abby of St. Ant [...]ine is farther on. This Abby gives name to all this Quarter. Many very remarkable Stories are told of the Foundation of this House, but in regard they do not sute with the Gust of this Age, I do not think it proper to in­sert them here. This Abby began to be built about the year 1193. and was finished in the Reign of St. Lewis who was present and assisting at its Dedi­cation, together with Queen Blanch of Castile his Mother. The Order of Cistertian Nuns was here placed by the solicitation of Odo de Suilly Bishop of Paris. The House is extreme nume­rous and very well Governed. The Abbess is Madame Molé of Champlâ [...]reux, of one of the most Illustrious Families of the Long Robe, and Daughter of the late Monsieur the first President Molé, Keeper of the Seals of France. The Church hath in it nothing very considerable unless it be the Tombs of two Princesses, Daughters of Charles the sixth, lying on both sides of the great Altar.

As you go into the Street beyond this Abby, is the Manufactury of Looking-glasses, which were formerly brought from Venice. But Monsieur Colbert observing how great a Treasure this Trade had yearly drawn out of the Kingdom, established this Manufacture, which has had a very happy Success, as indeed all other matters have had which that great Minister hath undertaken. Here is a great number of Workmen, who are conti­nually [Page 128] employed, some in polishing the Glasses with Sand, others with Emery, and other in ma­king the Bessil. They use no others at present at Paris. And these which they make here are as beautiful as those which formerly came from Venice, with infinite greater Charges. These Workmen are placed in long Galleries round a great square Court. Which Buildings have all the Conveniencies that are requisite, being raised on purpose for this Manufacture.

The Triumphal Arch.

Near the place where you see the Triumphal Arch was a magnisick Throne erected for the Queen when she made her Entry in the year 1660. And in regard this place is the highest of all this Quarter, this beautiful Structure is placed here, though it is not yet raised much higher than the Pedestal. One may judge from the Model which is only of Plaster, that it will be when fi­nished one of the most Illustrious Monuments of all Europe. It is a great Work, consisting of two Fronts and three open thorow-Passages, be­tween each of which are placed two Corinthian Pillars, in all eight on each side, and two at the ends, or thickness of the Work. Over the En­tablements or Cornish, are placed great Tro­ [...]hies of Arms with Slaves in Chains. The top of all the Work is flat, in the middle of which is placed a great Pedestal, and thereupon the Kings Statue on Horseback is to be erected. Posterity will learn from the several Ornaments of this Beautiful Structure the glorious Actions of this [Page 129] Kings Life, which are represented in Medaillons placed in the spaces between the Pillars. This Triumphal Arch will without doubt surpass all those which are to be seen at Rome and other parts of Italy, the Remains of Antiquity; and we shall see in this more regularity, more design, and more grandeur. The Solidity of the Work will answer the beauty. They make use of the hardest and greatest Stones that can be got, which are joyned in such manner that you can­not perceive where unless you look very closely, and this without cement or any thing like it. In fine, they have forgot nothing whereby to make it one of the Noblest Monuments of this Age.

The Chateau or Royal House of Vin­cennes.

Tho we did not intend in this Description to speak of any of the beautiful houses about Paris, yet we must not neglect to say something of Vin­cennes in regard of its near neighbourhood. It is at the further end of that great Ally of Trees, which has been continued from the Triumphal Arch to this place, to serve for a passage hither, and makes a pleasing prospect. The Building is exactly square, compassed about with a Moat very deep. It has several Towers of great heighth but one higher than the re [...]t called the Donjon. The first Founder of this House was Philip Au­gustus, who also made the Park about it, in which he put a great number of Deer, sent him by Henry King of England from Normandy which he then possessed. Philip of Valois and King John his Son continued the Work, but it was not finished [Page 130] till the Reign of Charles V. called the Wise, which put it into the condition as it now is. There have been several very considerable additions made, and the Court hath often resided here for a long time together. The two great Wings of Modern Building on the Park side, are of Do­rick Pilasters and were designed by Monsieur du Vau.

They are Magnificent both without and within, and shew very great; but that which is most remarkable is the great Gate that leads to the Park, of the same Order, together with the Sta­tues that stand on each side which are very beau­tiful. The Chappel was founded by Charles V. and the Body of Monsieur the Cardinal Mazarin, who died here, is reposited in this Chappel, till that of the Colledge of the four Nations be finish­ed, in which will be raised a Monument for him, as he has ordered in his Will. You ought to take particular notice of the curious Windows in this Chappel, they being highly esteemed, in regard neither Italy nor any other parts elsewhere can equal them. Many Kings have made their abode here. St. Lewis who used oftentimes to devest himself of the State and press of his Attendants at Court, that he might have the greater freedom to exercise his Piety, would here pass his days of retreat. It is said that not long ago there was remaining in the Park a great old Oak, under which this good Prince was used to hear their Complaints who resorted to him for Justice; and that he himself would use to send abroad his Heralds about the Country to call in all such who had any need of his Authority against the oppressi­on of great men. And thus much hath been al­ready well observed by a learned Preacher in an [Page 131] Eloquent Panegyrick which he made on the Feast day of this Saint, in the Church of the Grands Jestures, dedicated to him.

At the entrance into the Park is the Menage­rie or place where they keep several sorts of Wild Beasts, which oftentimes they cause to fight together in a Court in which are Galleries that serve the Spectators to stand in and see with­out danger. Behind the Menagerie over against one of the Park Gates, are the Nuns of S. Maud, which Nuns were formerly at la Saussaïe beyond the Ville-Juif. This House did once belong to Monsieur Fouquet.

This is all you can see on this side: as you re­turn into the Faux-bourg you may take a walk in the Garden of the Piq [...]epuces, which is among the first Houses you come at. Here are some Grottoes of Shell-work, [...]ot ill wrought. In their Refectory you will see some Pictures of Mon­sieur le Brun. This Convent is one of the most pleasing and neatest of Paris, tho it be but of this last Age. On the same side as you go on towards the Town you pass before Rambouïllet, whose Gardens are extreme pleasant, composed of several Walks of C [...]momil [...], and a great Parterre, in the midst of which is a Fountain.

Near Reüill [...] stands the house of Monsieur de Chantelou, M [...]istre d'Hôtel to the King, who has the best Pieces of Poussin that are to be seen, among others the seven Sacraments of which there are so many Copies, and which the Sieun Pesne hath etc [...]t. All knowing men agree, without contradiction, that these Pieces are the best Paint­ings and the best designed things of the whole World, if we except the Works of some Italian Masters.

[Page 132] On the other side of the Faux-bourg you ought to view the house of the Sieur Titen the Kings Secretary, in the Rüe de Montreüil: It is one of the finest you can see, whose Master being rich and of a delicate Gust, one cannot but imagine that nothing can be there wanting; and in truth it is very pleasant. Both on the Court-side and that next the Garden the Fronts are very Beautiful.

In the Rüe de Charonne you will see also an other which belongs to Monsieur de Folville, who caused it to be built very lately. It is flat Roof'd after the Italian manner, with Vases and Statues over the Cornishes. It is a kind of great Pavilion with four Fronts. In the middle of this Building is a Hall that opens to all the four sides, and parts the whole into four Divisions. The Beauty of the Buildings is equal on the Garden, and on that of the Court. The Garden is great enough and very carefully kept. Strangers ought not to neglect to see these two houses, for it is certain they can hardly see finer, and where the beauties of Modern Architecture have been obser­ved with more care and Judgment. And this is all that is more than ordinarily curious to be ob­served in the Fauxbourg St. Antoine.

The first thing you see as you re-enter into the Town is the Arsenal, where you have a very handsom Garden, with a long Ally or walk of Trees which runs all along the Ditch. Near the Mail there are some apartments handsom enough which extend along the very spacious Courts, whose Prospect is upon the River. Among others, the great Hall is adorned with a Plafond, or Cei­ling, of Monsieur Mignard's Work. The Duke of Lude at present enjoys these Lodgings, as great Master of the Artillery of France. Formerly [Page 133] they cast the Ordnance here in the Arsenal, but at present, it is done in the Frontier Towns, because of the proximity of those places where they are to be employed. Over the Gate are these two Verses.

The Hôtel de l'Edig [...]ieres is in the Rüe de l [...] Cerisaïe which leads to one of the Arsenal Gates▪ You ought not to neglect to see the magnificent Furniture in that House; it is not long since they had here the best Pictures of the Kingdom, which the late Duke de l'Ediguieres had col­lected with much care and Judgment, but they are now, since his Death, dispersed into other hands.

The Celestins.

Formerly this Convent belonged to the Car­melites of the Place-Maubert, and these Cele­stines did then inhabit where they now are. But they desiring to be nearer the University, left this place in exchange with the Celestins. The first Founder was a Burgess of Paris named Jaques Marcel, who in the year 1318 bought the place which the Carmelites had left, for the sum of 500 Livers, and gave it to the Celestins. Charles V. [Page 134] surnamed the Wife, augmented the Foundation very much, and built their Church as we see it at present, himself laying the first Stone. Nor did this King stop here, he gave them also conside­rable Rents, which have been since that time aug­mented by other Donations which have been made to them by several great Lords, more espe­cially by Lewis Duke of Orleans, Brother of Charles V. who was Assassinated by the Duke of Burgundy his Coufin German, as he came out of the Palace of Isabet of Bavaria his Sister-in-law. that Prince had a very particular affection for these Fathers, and did them more good Offices than any other Person ever did since their Foundation. After his death his Body was brought to their Church, and was interred in a Chappel which he had caused to be built for himself and his Fami­ly. Before we enter into this Church we ought to pass through the little Cloister, which is ex­actly square, and built very neatly. It is all Vaulted and adorned with Sculpture. The Pillars that support the Arches have their Capitals ex­tremely well wrought. This is a Work of the last Age, and had it been done in this it would have cost much more than it did, for it is said that the whole expence did not exceed 29000 Francs. In one corner of this Cloister you ought to observe the Epitaph of Anthony Perez, Secri­tary to Philip the Second King of Spain, who being fallen into disgrace with his Master came for refuge into France, were he led a private life. And dying at Paris in the year 1611. he was interred in this place. His Epitaph is as fol­low:

[Page 135] Hic jacet Illust. D. Anthonius Perez olim Phi­lippo Secundo Hisp [...]miorum Regi à Sereti­oribus consiliis. Cujus odium male auspi­catum effugiens, ad Henricum Quartum Galliarum Regem invictissimum se contulit, cujus (que) beneficentiam expertus est, demum Parisits diem clausit, An. S. MDCXI.

Here lies the Illustrious Anthony Perez, for­merly Secretary to Philip II. King of Spain. To avoid whose unhappy displeasure, he be­took himself to Henry IV. the most potent King of France, by whom he was received into favour, and at length ended his days at Paris, in the year of Salvation MDCXI.

The Church belonging to these Fathers is all Gothick and hath nothing Curious in relation to its Structure. The Altar is not much better a­dorned: yet on the Festival days they expose here very rich Ornaments of an ancient sort of Stuff of Gold and Silver Embroidered, by whose Beau­ty we may perceive that in the Ages past they had very industrious Artists, and such who had a delicate Gust in these matters. The Kings Se­cretaries hold their Confraternity in this Church. Their Company is one of the famousest that is, as well for the number of considerable persons that compose it, as the great Priviledges which their Office gives them, one of the fairest of which is the Title of Nobility. They have a black Pall, the richest that is to be seen; made by an Italian whom Cardinal Mazarin caused to come into [Page 136] this Kingdom expresly, to design the Embroide­ry which he intended to make. This Pall is of black Velvet with a great Cross of Silver, and Cartouches about the edges, in which there are several devises delicately wrought.

You ought next to see the Tombs which are in the Chapelle de Orleans. As you go in, on the left hand you may observe a great twisted Pillar, of white Marble, adorned with Feüillages and Mouldings let into the Work, as is also the Capi­tal which is of the Composite Order; Over which is placed an Urn of Brass, and in that the heart of the Constable Anne de Montmorency, who died gloriously of his Wounds received at the Bat­tel of St Dennis, which he fought against the Hugonots on the fourteenth of November in the year 1567. This brave Lord received six several Wounds, of which the last only was mor­tal. It is reported of him that being in the Agony of Death, a Cordelier exhorting him to his last Duties with something too much Violence and Importunity, he desired him to permit him to rest a little, saying that he had not lived fourscore years, and not yet learnt what it was to die one quarter of an hour. His Funeral Pomp was Magnificent, and equal to that of Kings, his Esfi­gies being carried as is customary at the Obsequies of Kings or their Children. This beautiful Pillar is erected upon a Pedestal of red Marble, and set off with three Statues of Brass representing three Virtues. The Sword Royal of which the Con­stable hath the Charge with the other Marquess of that Dignity are also here represented in Marble. You may here read certain Inscriptions in French Verse, which at that time were much esteemed but I have omitted to insert them in this Work, they [Page 137] being not at all of the Gust of this Age. This Monument is one of the most beautiful and sin­gular that is to be seen, the work of the Pillar is exquisite, and it is said that the Sculptor was more than fifteen years in making it. The Body of this great Constable is in the Church of Mont­morency, four Leagues from Paris, where hath been raised for him one of the stateliest Mau­soleums of all the Kingdom, of which we may say more hereafter.

In the middle of this Chappel stands the Tomb of the Duke of Orleans, for whom it was parti­cularly erected, It hath nothing magnificent; only the representation of four persons in cum­bent postures, namely of Lewis Duke of Orle­ans, who was murdered; and of Valentine his Wife, who died two years after her Husband of Grief and Sorrow, having done her utmost en­deavours to be revenged upon the Duke of Bur­gundy for his Treachery, by drawing into her quarrel the Dauphin Charles, tho against his own Mother, and the Parliament who cited the Duke to appear personally before them. The Clergy and the University did commiserate her Sorrows, and did their endeavours, tho unsuccessfully, to comfort her. France is obliged to this Princess for that incontestable Right she hath to the Dutchy of Millain, which she brought by her Marriage with the Duke of Orleans, from whom Lewis XII. and Francis I descended. She was daughter of John Galeas Duke of Millain, who left two Sons, but both dying without issue Male, this Princess became Presumptive Heir to that Dutchy. Near her Statue are engraved those Ver­ses,

The two other Figures lying on each side upon this Tomb are, that of Charles Duke of Orleans eldest Son of him we mentioned before, and Fa­ther of Lewis XII. and that of Philip Earl of Vertus, his Brother, who died unmarried. All these four Figures are of Marble, and were caused to be made by the pious care of Lewis XII. who for the mildness of his Reign and the great fa­vour and love which he had for his Subjects does merit to be called the Father of his People, a Title the more illustrious, by reason that the Empe­ror Augustus and the greatest Kings of the Earth were ambitious to deserve it. At one end of this Tomb, next the Altar, is placed the heart of Henry II. in an Urn of Brass gilt, held up by three Vertues upon their heads, which Statues are of Marble, and the best sort of Germain Pi­ton's Work. Men of Judgment admire this Piece for the Beauty of the Design. And it is said that a curious Person of the last Age offered to give for it 10000 Crowns and a Copy of the same to be made as exactly as could be and placed in the Room. The Pedestal of these three Figures, which properly speaking are but one, is triangu­lar like a Tripos. They are as big as the Life, of one Block of Marble, and hold together by the hands. Their Drapery and the air of their heads, is admirable. One may easily perceive by this [Page 139] that the past age did equal ours in delicate Work­manship, and Beauty of Design.

At the other end is the heart of Francis II. on a high Pillar of white Marble. Flames seem to issue out at the top, about this Pillar are three Cupids with their Torches reverst and extinguish­ed. This is raised upon a Pedestal of Porphyry, on the sides of which are certain Inscriptions, among others one that says that this King marri­ed Mary Stuart, who was beheaded in England through the Jealousie of Elizabeth. He died at Orleans, Decemb. 10. 1560. being but sixteen years of Age. The heart of Charles IX. his Brother, who died at Vincennes on Whit-sunday in the year 1572. is also in the same Monument.

Along the Wall on the right hand, is the Tomb of a Princess, who was sister to Valentine of Milain; that of the Admiral Chabot, the Work­manship of Paul Ponce, whose Labours are migh­tily esteemed; and that of one of the Princes of the House of Rohan. These two last Tombs tho of a different sort, are very beautiful, and the Effigies of those who are there interred are well designed. Near the door which leads out of this Chappel into the Nave of the Church, stands a great Pillar of white Marble full of Cyphers and Sculptures, and belongs to the illustrious House of Cossé-Brissac, as appears by the Epitaph. It was raised for Timoleon de Cossé-Brissac. But that which is most remarkable in this Chappel, and that which strikes the eye with most surprize, is the Curious Pyramid belonging to the house of Longueville, the Workman-ship of Monsieur de Augui [...]rre, in which are the hearts of several persons of that illustrious Family, it is adorned with Trophies and accompanied with four Vertues of [Page 140] White Marble. On the Pedestal are two Bas-reliefs gilt over, representing two of the most remarka­ble Actions of the Duke of Longueville, for whom this Monument was erected at a very con­siderable expence. You ought to observe the Picture over the Altar, it being done by Francis Salujati, a Boulonois, who was a famous Pain­ter, and whose Works are much sought after in Italy. Behind this Chappel is another little one, which Monsieur the Marquess of Rostaing caused to be built, but in it there is nothing to invite the Curious. In the Nave of this Church is a Tomb belonging to the Ancestors of the Duke of Gesvres, where you will see some Statues of Marble, kneeling, in the habits of that Age, very well wrought, but more especially that of the Duke of Tremes, his Father. In one of the Chappels is the Monument of Monsieur de la Tremoüille, and over against that the Tomb of Monsieur Zamet, Bishop of Langres, on one side of which you may see the Monument of Ca­rolus Magnus; he is represented sitting and lean­ing his head on his left arm. This is the Work of Paul Ponce a famous Sculptor, as we have already said. In that Chappel where you see the Tomb of the Duke de la Tremoüille, there is over the Altar a very curious piece of a Magdelain done by Mignard, Nephew of Peter Mignard whom we have formerly mentioned.

In the house it self there is nothing of Curio­sity. These Fathers have begun a great Building of late time, which is now almost finished, where­in they will be extreme conveniently lodged. Their Gardens are handsom enough, in one of which near the Vineyard, you may see a Grotto of Shell-work, which is committed to the care [Page 141] of one of the younger Monks. The Cabinet of Father Augereau, in the little Garden adjoyning, deserves to be seen; there are some good Pictures, and curious Prints. This Father is very skilfull in these matters, but he hath not the opportuni­ty of making any great Collection. These Monks are very regular, and never eat any flesh, unless they be sick, or happen to be above two leagues from home. They observe much the same Rule with the Cistercians, being a branch of that Or­der.

Near this, on the edg of the River is the Hôtel de Fieubet belonging to Monsieur Fieubet, Coun­sellor of State in Ordinary, and Chancellor to the deceased Queen. He caused it to be built about three or four years ago. One can hardly desire a neater house than this both within and without. The Stair-case is very light and adorn­ed with Busts between the Windows. The apart­ments are contrived in enfilade as the mode is at present; on one side they look into the Garden, and on the other side upon the River. The Furniture is of the same neatness, as well in the Rooms above Stairs as below. The great piece of Perspective on the adjoyning wall is very fine; it is painted in Fresco with a great deal of fancy. It represents a Building composed of two great Arches, between which are some Pillars and a Statue of an Hero between them. Over all there is a Sun-dial, about which are placed several Fi­gures, among others a Woman pulling Feathers out of a Cocks tail to point out the hours upon a Tablet, and Time over her head seems to approve the Action. All the Work keeps its Colours ve­ry well, which is not usual in Paintings exposed to the injuries of the Air, which last but a short [Page 142] time, especially in Paris where the Air is very moist in Winter, and the driness of the Summer very great, in such sort that it is difficult for any Plaister to defend it self against these extremities. This is the Work of Monsieur Rousseau, who did that at Monsieur Poüange's.

In the same Row you have the Hôtel de la Vie­ville, whose entrance is but dark, yet is the in­side capacious and convenient enough.

The Church of St. Paul which is the Parish Church of this Quarter, is in the Street that runs along near the last mentioned Hôtel. Formerly this Church was the Parish Church of the Kings house while the Court remained at the Palais des Tournelles. It was built, as is to be seen, in the Reign of Charles VI.

As you go towards the Isle of Nostre-Dame you come again to the Convent of the Nuns of the Ave-Maria in the Rüe des Barrieres. They are of St. Clares Order. St. Lewis had former­ly placed in this house certain Beguines, which were Nuns of the Order of St. Begue, a Fleming by extraction. They wore a Coif that hid almost all their Face, But in the Reign of Lewis XI. Queen Charlotte introduced the third Order of St. Francis, with the Reform, and her Son King Charles VIII. built for the Friers, the house ad­joyning, separated only by the passage that leads to the Church. There is not in all Paris any Con­vent of Nuns who live more austere than these. They never eat any Flesh, nor wear any Linnen, and besides that, they rise at midnight, and go continually barefoot without Sandals or Stockings, with a strict observance of a perpetual Silence. Nor can we find in any Convent a greater Stock of Vir­tue, and more disesteem and neglect of secular [Page 143] affairs. These good Nuns never think of the World but when they pray to God to forgive the disorders which are committed in it. And as they have no other Subsistence than by Alms, so have they no other trust than to the Divine Providence, which is never wanting; Paris containing so great a number of Pious People, by whose Charity they are maintained. Seldom or never are any permitted to speak with them; so that in the midst of Paris they are as much retired from the World as [...]if in the darkest solitude. On this ac­count you very rarely see my Coaches at their Gate. At such times as they are obliged to speak to their nearest Relations, it must be in the Church, they having not throughout their whole house any other Parloir or speaking Room. The Tomb of the illustrious Ancestors of Monsieur the Arch-Bishop of Paris, who have been con­cerned with honour in the greatest Employments, stands in a Chappel belonging to this Church.

A little further is the Hôtel de Sens with an old Gothick Gate but handsom enough. For­merly the Arch-Bishops of that City, who were Metropolitans of Paris, resided here. But under the Pontificate of Ʋrban VIII. Paris having been dismembred from that Arch Bishoprick this Hotel hath been since let out to several parti­cular persons who pay their Rents to the Arch-Bishop of Sens.

After this you pass over the Bridge called Pont-Marie, to go into the Isle de Nostre-Dame. Ob­serve as you go that this Bridge is not so full of Houses as it might be, in regard that in March 1657. the River being extraordinarily overflown, it carried away two Arches n the night time, to a very great loss both of Persons and Goods, [Page 144] which perished miserably. This Bridg took its name from the undertaker of the Work in the year 1614 who was called Marie.

The Isle of Nostre-Dame.

The Isle of Nostre-Dame takes its name from the Church of Paris to which it belongs as part of their Estate. All the houses which we see there at present are the work of this Age. It was formerly a Meadow ground where people of all sorts used to walk to take the Air, in the middle of which place stood a small Chappel Dedicated to St. Lewis. At present it is all compassed about with a Key of Free-stone very firm, and filled with very handsom houses, among which there are some most magnifick, and which may be compared with the most beautiful Palaces; espe­cially those which are situated at the corner on the East side, where the Seine divides it self into two Arms to make the Isle. The Streets are strait, and all end upon the edge of the River.

The first house which ought to be observed on the side of Pont-Marie, is that of Monsieur de Grand-Maison, which appears to be solidly built, and whose inside is extreme handsom. As you pass further, you come to the house of Monsieur Lambert de Terigny President of the Chamber of Accounts, whose chief Entrance is from the Rüe St. Louis which crosses the Isle from one end to the other. This House is magnifick in all its parts, the Gate is great and high, and the Lock­smiths Work is very extraordinary. But this is not that which is most observable. The four [Page 145] sides of the Court are adorned each with a Front of admirable Buildings set off with great Io­nick Pilasters, which reach from the Ground to the top of the Fabrick, with Vases upon the tops. The Staircase is placed at the bottom of the Court, with two Ranks of Pillars, directly over which the light falls full upon the Steps, without the least obstacle. The first Apartment is composed of several Chambers one beyond another, from all which you have a delicate prospect upon the River on the Garden side in such sort that in a clear day one may see six or seven Leagues into the Country, which is a very considerable plea­sure. In these Apartments you may see some Cieling-pieces of the best sort of Painting, espe­cially in the last Chamber, which is all of le Sueur's work, who in an age but very little ad­vanced gave great hopes in time to equal the best Painters of Italy, as one may perceive by the last Pictures which he made. Those things of his which are to be seen in this house are the best that ever he did, chiefly the Paintings in the Alcove representing the Muses in a Consort of Musick, the Cieling-piece is almost of equal Beauty. The Moveables of this Apartment are extreme rich. From thence you ought to go into the Gallery which is on the same Floor. All that is devised ordinarily to adorn the fairest Galleries may be found in this, gilding upon Sculpture curiously wrought, with a Ceiling enriched with Pictures of the best Masters, among which are several of le Sueur, of whom I spoke before, which one may easily distinguish from the rest, although those which are not of his hand are not however to be neglected, being very well paint­ed. [Page 146] The door, by which you enter into this Gal­lery, is sustained on the inside with two Corin­thian Pillars all over gilt, the sides are almost of the same fashion, with Païsages and Pilasters of the same Order, between which are placed Busts of Marble upon Tables of the same; the end of the Room does determine in a little Terrase in manner of a Balcony, which commands all over the River. The Apartments below are not so well adorned, tho they also have their Beauties. In the Garden are to be seen some Statues handsom enough. And you ought not to forget to see the Orangerie, which in Winter is in a Hall, where one may walk about very conveniently. Near to which place there is another, separated only by a great partition that is glased, through which one has the pleasure in the midst of Winter to see the Vertue of the Orange-trees. The face of the house on the Garden side is of the same Symmetry and Order of Building with that in the Court, which thing gives this house an air of grandeur at a great distance, and which shews extremely fine as one comes to Paris by Water from Charenton. Near this is

The house of Monsieur de Bretonvilliers, another President in the Chamber of Ac­counts. This house is yet better situated than that of which I have been speaking, in regard it stands upon the very point of the Isle, and the River is on both sides of it. It is also much more great and spacious. The Masonry tho it be of no set Order of Architecture because of the many Ornaments that are there placed, is notwithstand­ing extreme handsom to the eye. The Stair-case is on the left hand in one of the Corners of the [Page 147] Court: built with much solidity as is all the rest of the house; there has been no sparing of Vaults in those places where there appeared any occasion. This house is truely great and contains in it all things necessary for the entertainment of a great Lord. The outward Court is parted from the rest in such manner as it cannot cause the least inconvenience. As to the beauty and delights of the inside they are more considerable than that of which I treated last, in regard its Prospect is farther extended, and that it seems from the Windows of this House that all the Boats that come continually to Paris, are coming to land at its door, and here it is that they separate on the one side or the other, to go either to the Port St. Paul or to the Port de la Tournelle, where usually they unload their Burthens. The mova­bles are magnisick; consisting of Beds most rich­ly embroidered, Chenets, Tables, Sconces, Look­ing-glasses, and Ornaments for the Chimneys of Goldsmiths work, of Tapistry heighthened with Gold and Silver; all things are there in abundance. The Pictures are also of the best sort, since they are of Monsieur le Bruns hand, who is at present the chief Painter of the Kingdom. The Gallery which is on the left hand is all of his Work, the sides of which, instead of Wainscot are coverd with Paintings in fresquo, such as employ the Curious a long time in beholding them, who take a mighty pleasure to discover in these pieces that which they usually seek for in Italy with so much concern and pains. The Apartments below Stairs are very pleasant. There are Baths, and a Hall extreme convenient for Summer, by reason of that fresh air which is there gathered. In fine, [Page 148] nothing is wanting in this house, and one may find there all the conveniences that can be desired of what sort soever; he who caused it to be built having not spared the greatest of expenses to ren­der it such as it is.

Leaving this house we ought to pass along the Key called Quay Dauphin, otherwise, the Key of Balcones, almost all the Houses that are built here having Balcones before the Window, among the rest one ought to be observed more especially, which is that in which at present dwells Monsieur the Abbot of St. Croix, Master of Requests, it was built with much care, by the deceased Monsieur Hesselin, who was one of the most curious per­sons of his time, and it was designed by the Sieur le Veau. The Front is of a very handsom design, without crowding in of insignificant Ornaments. And on the inside there are very beautiful Ciel­ings, with Chimney-pieces of the best sort of Workmanship. The Court is in truth a little too obscure, but this defect is advantagiously repaired by the Symmetry of the Building on that side, and by the curious prospect from thence.

Near this is the house of Monsieur Roulier, the Stair-case of which is extreme handsom, it is sup­ported with Ionick Pillars and adorned with Bas-reliese. The face on the side of the Court is embellished with Architecture handsom to per­fection. It was built by Monsieur de Alisi. Having seen this House we ought next to go to

The Church of St. Lewis, tho it be not yet finished. That which is begun is of a very fine sort of Architecture. The Porta is supported with Dorick Pillars. And when this Church is com­pleated it will deserve to be compared to the best [Page 149] of the kind, for the design and regularity with which it is carried on. The Sieur du Vau gave the first design. M. Champagne an able Painter, being Churchwarden, hath the care of the Orna­naments of the Architecture there, and Monsieur le Duc hath carried on the Work in such manner as we now see it.

Leaving the Isle Nostre-Dame we go over the Bridge de la Tournelle, built of Free-stone, after the same Model with that of Pont-Neuf; it hath two ways raised on each side, for the conveniency of those that walk over on foot. As you pass forward you see on the left hand

St. Bernard's Gate, embellished also some years since, after the designs of Monsieur Blondel: on each side are placed great Bas-reliess that fill up both the Fronts. On that side that faces the Town the King is represented pouring out plenty upon his Subjects; and on the Attique over head, we read this Inscription

[Page 150] On the other side which fronts the Faux­bourg the King is represented Apparelled in man­ner of the Ancient Gods, holding the Helm of a great Ship under full Sail, with this Inscription,

Along the River side among the Wharss and Wood-yards, there is one Hou [...]e of a private Per­son very handsomly built. It is composed of two Pavilions or Arms, with the main building in the middle in which the Stair-case is placed that communicates to both ends. The house hath a very good face on the Court-side, and looks to­wards the Fields, which renders the Prospect ex­treme pleasing. The Apartments are very com­modious and adorned with Wainscot gilt, and Marbled of divers colours. This House is the handsomest of all this Quarter.

By the Street called Rue de Seine which passes close to the Walls of this House, you may go to

St. Victor's.

This is a famous Abby of Canons regular of the Order of St. Augustin, of which Monsieur de Coislin, Bishop of Orleans, chief Almoner to the King, and Brother of the Duke of Coislin, is Abbot. This Abby is very ancient, of such An­tiquity that we are not well assured of the time of its first Foundation. We know only that King Lewis the Gross in the year 1113. caused a great Church to be built in this place, where was be­fore but a very little Chappel: and we read in the Church-History of Paris, that Thomas de Cham­peaux Canon of Nostre-Dame, and a famous Pro­fessor of Theology, having a difference with one of his Disciples named Abaillard, retired with some of his Scholars to a place near the little Chappel of St. Victor, and that he took the habit of a Chanon Regular, which possibly might be the Original of this Abby, which from that time did always encrease more and more. This happened about the year 1105. The Quarrel between this Thomas de Champeaux and the said Abaillard is much spoken of in the Histories of that time, and there are many very remarkable passages in it which notwithstanding are not proper to be re­ported in this Work.

That which is the most curious thing to be seen in this Abby is the Library, which is very nu­merous and full of the best sort of Books that can be met with. There are also Manuscripts in the great Cabinet at the further end. It hath been considerably augmented by Monsieur Bo [...] ­chet, [Page 152] Counsellor in the Parliament, on condition that it be publick for all sorts of Persons oftener than it was before, which has made it of migh­ty advantage and wonderfully frequented by the Studious, who may come three times a Week, Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, and remain there all day long if they please. It is the only Library of all Paris that is open in this manner, but we hope in time there will be others in that City that will yield the like profit. In the other parts of this house we find nothing very curious. There is in the Church here great Devotion to our Lady of Succour, and to St. Clair, Bishop of Autun, who is invoked for sore Eyes. Among the Monks of St. Victor there are many Learned Persons, some of which are Monsieur de Santeüil, almost the only man in France who understands to make Inscriptions in Verse for publick Monu­ments, he is of an extraordinary ability in this Science and all things of this nature which we see come from him, are intirely fine. Hugh of St. Victor a famous Divine was also of this house.

After you have seen the Abby of St. Victor you ought to go to the Kings Garden; in the way thither you pass by

The Hospital of Pity, which is a Limb of the great Hospital general; in which they harbour a great number of young Boys and Girls, whom they imploy in divers sorts of Work, more espe­cially the Girls who make Point of France, from which the House does easily draw a Profit suffici­ent to maintaian them.

The Kings Garden.

This Garden is filled with nothing but Medici­nal Plants of most choice sorts, which are there nourished and looked after at the Kings Charges. Certain Months in the Year, here are Botanick Le­ctures, to the hearing of which any one may be admitted freely. There is a Doctor of Pyhsick who hath a Sallary for this purpose, and who is ordinarily more eminent than the rest for his Learning. This Lecture is made at six of the Clock in the morning, in those parts of the Gar­den where the several Simples grow. One ought to observe that half this Garden is taken up by a Mount or eminent Ground, round which they have made an Ally which mounts about it in a Spiral Line, which Ally has on the outward edge a Palisade of Bushes, on the top of this Mount is an Accacias from whence you have a Prospect over the River and Fauxbourg St. Antoine. On the left hand as you come into the Court, is a La­boratory, where they also work publickly in Chy­mistry during certain months in the year. The Compositions which they make there are given freely to such poor that need 'em.

But that which is the greatest Curiosity of all is the Cabinet of Monsieur du Vernay one of the Royal Academy of Sciences, and one of the prime Men of the Kingdom for Dissections and Anato­my. Few People ever made a farther progress than he in this sort of operation, in which he hath made a great number of Discoveries, that [Page 154] have gained him a mighty Reputation. In Win­ter he reads publickly in the great Hall, which is contrived in manner of an Amphitheatre, that may contain abundance of People. Monsieur Da­quin the Kings chief Physitian hath the oversight and the administration of this Garden; he ap­points the Doctors in Physick and Chirurgery who read the Lectures of Chymistry and Dissection, and he hath a Pension from the King for this pur­pose. The Superintendant of the Buildings is the absolute Master here, and it is under his Autho­rity that all these things are transacted. Leaving this place you may go to

The Hospital-general; altho for delicate peo­ple it is no very pleasing object to see the poor, yet it is a curious thing, and surprising at the same time, to see so great a number of all sorts and ages, whose miseries are eased with so much care and Charity, that nothing is wanting to them but only Liberty. This great Building which contains in it more than six thousand persons, ap­pears as you come in like a little Town, by rea­son of the quantity and diversity of the houses, although it be all the Work of this age, and all the poor People that are in it are maintained upon Charity only. The Church was built not above seven or eight years ago: It is of a very peculiar design; a great Dome of eight Angles raised up­on Arches, against each of which are placed eight Naves or spaces to contain all the poor people. The Altar is contrived just in the middle under the Dome, so that it may be seen on eight sides for the conveniency of all. There is nothing mag­nificent in the Work, except only the Portico by which people enter from abroad, which is sup­ported [Page 155] by certain Ionick Pillars, over which is placed a small Attick, but this is of no extraor­dinary relish however. On the two sides of this Entrance are placed two Pavilions where are lodg­ed the Ecclesiasticks who serve the Chappel, and administer the Sacraments to the poor People. It is observable that they imploy here all the young girls of the Hospital, who are very numerous, in making point of France, some embroider, others make the Loops, others the Ground, which causes much work to be dispatched by their hands in a little time, of which is made a considerable in­come. The first President de Belliévre was one of those who were most active in the Foundation of this great Hospital, which at that time was thought incredible; and this was done on the ac­count of that excessive number of Poor which were continually about the Streets and Churches of Paris, to the great incommodity of the Pub­lick. In the mean time this Illustrious Magistrate being assisted by the Cardinal Mazarin, the Dutchess of Aiguillon, and some others, persons of Authority, accomplished his design, and caused all those to be shut up in this Hospital who were found begging, or who were not able to get their Living.

Almost over against the Gate of this Hospital, in a large place, is kept the Horse-Market on the Wednesday and Friday in every Week.

Les Gobelins.

This House is almost behind the Faux-bourg of Saint Marcel. Here it is that the Curious ought to apply themselves with their utmost diligence to observe all the Rarities that are to be seen in this place, in regard there is no part of Europe that produces so many. But to give you a juster Idea, I shall make a Description.

First of all, it is not unuseful to observe that this place has been always inhabited by excellent Artists: and that heretofore it was imploy­ed by the famous Dyers of Wood, the first of which was one Giles Goblin, who, as report says, found out the secret of dying the best Scarlet, or at least that he first brought it to Paris, from whence it comes that ever since it hath been cal­led Scarlet des Gobelines. This House hath still kept the old name as well as the little River that runs behind it, which Water hath a peculiar Ver­tue for the dying of this Colour, and before that time it was called the River of Bieure. The Dutch have made it their utmost endeavour to discover this secret, but they could never do it with all their industry and expence, however they come pretty near, but they cannot arrive to that Degree of perfection, which our Dyers have in making this Beautiful colour, which makes so great a Merchan­dize through all Europe, nay in a manner through the whole World, for much goes into the Indies and America. But not to say more of this house and River called the Gobelins, let us now [Page 157] speak of the things that are there to be seen. It is to be observed that all the Artists that work here are employed only for the King, and that their Works which they perform here are for the Decoration and Ornament of the Royal Palaces. Some years since the number of the Workmen was much greater than at present; but the pro­digious quantity of Work which they did is the oc­casion that they are now much retrenched, in re­gard the Repositories where the Kings moveables are kept are sufficiently filled, in such sort that one may say at this time there is no Prince in Europe that hath more Goldsmiths work or Tapistry.

The first thing that is to be viewed are the Pi­ctures, which are, in a manner, all of the hand of famous Monsieur le Brun, the ablest Painter of France, and whose Works are so much sought after and admired by all those who are skilled in Painting. As a reward for whose great pains which he is continually engaged in, and for the Emulation of those who have any Genius in de­signing, the King hath been pleased not only to give him large Pensions, to declare him Overseer of all the Works in Painting and Sculpture which are done for him, and to name him Director of the Academy-Royal of Painting, but he hath al­so ennobled him by his Letters Patents. The Principal Pieces of this excellent Master are at Versailles. The great Stair-case is almost all of his hand, and he is working at present in the great Gallery, which takes up all that side that looks upon the Garden. In the Louvre there are also divers Cieling-pieces of his design. In the Church of Nôtre-dame are two Pieces, one re­presents the Martyrdom of St. Stephen, the other [Page 158] the Crucisying of St. Peter, both which Pieces are in the Quire on each side of the high Altar, and which one may easily distinguish from other Pictures, at the Carmelites in the Faux-bourg St. Jacques. The second great Piece which re­presents a Magdelain at the feet of our Saviour in the House of Simon the Leper, is of his hand, so also another Piece of the same Saint, in one of the Chappels of the same Church, which was much admired by the Queen Mother, who began first from the sight of this Piece to have an esteem for M. le Brun, whom soon after she made known at Court by the means of the Chancel­lor Seguier, by whom he was mightily esteemed. Most of the Works which are wrought in the Gobelins are of his design, and it is he that or­ders the Performance. His Cabinet is one of the most curious that can be seen; in which he has collected the Paintings of the most excellent Masters that have been, and several other rare Pie­ces which have a Relation to Painting. I will say one thing more to the Glory of M. le Brun that he hath under him several other Painters who do nothing else but Copy his Draughts and work after his Designs.

The second thing which one ought to see in this Place, is the Tapistry Works. Among that great number of Artists that work here in this Manufacture, there are some Flemings, who are equal to the most Renowned of the last age at Anvers. Nothing can be seen finer than what comes from their hands, be it in History or Land­skip, in both which Gold and Silver are imploy­ed even to profusion, and they have some pieces there that are all over heighthned after that man­ner. [Page 159] When we have well examind these things we must conclude that there is no part of the World where they make better Work, or better understand the perfect way of Shadowing the Wool. It is however Monsieur le Brun, who gives them the Designs, and for the most part they Copy his Paintings. Of late they have also copied some of the best things of Poussin, (the greatest man of our age without contradiction) among others, the little Moses which they had from the Cabinet of the lately deceased Madam Lescot: The Rock in the Wilderness with the Fountain of Waters flowing from it, which be­longed to the deceased Monsieur Dreux Coun­sellor of the great Council, and two other Pictures from the Cabinet of Monsieur the Chevalier de Lorraine, one of which represents the passage through the Red Sea, and the other the Worship of the Golden Calf. They have made also many Pieces from Raphael and Michael Angelo. But one of their most beautiful and curious things is the History of the King represented in divers Pieces, of which subject may be made divers Suits of Hangings, in which are contained the principal Actions of his Life, as the Battels he hath gained, the Towns he hath taken, the Ceremonies of his Marriage, the renovation of the Alliance with the Deputies of the thirteen Cantons of Swisses, and many other Passages of such like nature, the Borders of these Pieces have the Ground-work of Gold, with Grotesques, and several Devices and Cyphers at the Corners and in the middle which things are of coloured Silk, and shew delicately upon the Gold ground. The Sieur Gens and le Fevre have the oversight and direction of [Page 160] those who work at that sort of Tapistry which is called the high Lists, and the Sieurs Mozin and de la Croix, those who work at the low Lists.

After you have seen the Tapistries you ought to see the place where they carve and engrave up­on Copper and Brass for Closets and such like matters. It is here that they made those curious Locks that are to be seen at Versailles, and the Louvre, which are wrought with such delicate Workmanship.

In the first Court through which you pass to see the things of which we have been speaking, you ought not to forget to visit the houses of le Sieur Loir and le Sieur Villiers, two famous Goldsmiths, who are imployed continually for the King: You will find often under their hands Works of mighty value. Here it was where they made those two Balusters for the Alcove, which are at Versailles before the Kings Bed, and the Queens. One may know of what Beauty, Workmanship, and Riches they are, since the price of each amounted to two hundred thousand Crowns. They are all of solid Silver without any thing to help out, either within the Pede­stals or Rails, other than the thickness of the metal it self, which has been employed with Pro­fusion.

Near the Goldsmiths, in the same Court on the right hand, you may find certain Works of an extraordinary nature performed by the Sieur Branquier, and the Sieur Ferdinand de Meliori, who were both invited out of Italy to make here a kind of Mosaick Work; which will cost much time and expence. They are a sort of Pictures, the different colours of which are made of inlaid [Page 161] Stones, which represent Figures extreme like, and very well designed. These Pieces are most commonly composed of Agate, Lapis Lazuli, Jacinth, and Cornelian, which makes a colour­ing more lively and brillant than ordinary Paint­ing, which Stones are joyned together with a sort of Mastick very hard. They are ordinarily placed upon Ebony Cabinets, or Tables of great price. At the habitation of one of these Artists there is a little Garden behind his house, which is very pretty and in which are divers Ornaments of artificial Rocks and Shell-work.

After you have examined these things, you re­turn by the same way to visit other Curiosities that are to be seen in another Court. There are two Workhouses for Carvers and Statuaries, the one of which is governed by the Sieur Baptiste, in which is the Statue of Monsieur de Turenne in white Marble, which is to be placed at St. De­nis upon the Tomb which the King hath there caused to be raised for him; here is also a great Muse, bigger than the life, of excellent Work­manship, which is intended to be placed at Ver­sailles with divers other Statues of the same big­ness. The other Workhouse is governed by the Sieur Coesvau, who for the most part works af­ter the life. He hath made several Busts and other Figures of representation. This is he that made the Kings Bust which stands in the great Stair-case at Versailles.

After this you ought to see the Embroiderers, who are in a Hall near which you pass to go to the great Court. They are employed upon di­vers Pieces, in which the richness of the materi­als does most commonly vie with the beauty of the Work.

[Page 162] Near this place here are still two Statuaries more in two Low Rooms, where you may see some Pieces in Marble and some in Lead for the Fountains at Versailles. Besides those things al­ready described, there are many other Curiosities in this great House, which the Curious may ob­serve, and which would be too long to treat of in particular. We have already said that here are all sorts of excellent Artists who have been invi­ted hither from different Parts. Among whom we ought not to forget M. Audrean, one of the ablest Gravers of his time: he hath etcht and gra­ved all the great Pieces of M. le Brun, as the Triumph of Constantine the Great, the Battel of Maxentius, all the History of Alexander, in five great Pieces, and divers other things of that great Painter. All that comes from his hand, is of a singular beauty, and most exact design, the most correct that can be: which occasions that all his Work sells much dearer than others, nay often­times it is difficult to get them at any rate in re­gard all the best Proofs are reserved for the Kings Cabinet. He hath also graved several Pieces from the famous Poussin, which all Curious Persons treasure up in their Closets. The Sieur le Clere dwells here also who is very able and well esteem­ed in this Art. And these are the most curious things at the House called les Gobelins.

From hence we return again into the Town by the Fauxbourg St. Marcel, and we pass before the Church of that name, which was first found­ed by Roland Earl of Blare Nephew of Charle­magne, who was a great Benefactor to it, in con­ferring great Priviledges upon the Canons who served there. This Church did heretofore bear [Page 163] the title of S. Clement. But the Body of S. Marcel Bishop of Paris, being found here it took his name, which it hath kept ever since. The famous Peter Lombard, surnamed the Master of the Sentences, is here interred. And this is his Epitaph,

There are also in this Fauxbourg, the Cordelier Nuns. Whose Convent was first built at Troyes by Thibaut VII. Earl of Champagne and of Brie, but they were removed to Paris soon af­ter, because of the inconveniency of the place where they were first founded. Margaret de Provence Wife to St. Lewis caused the Church to be begun as we now see it, and Blanch her Daughter Widow of the King of Castile be­came a Nun there, and gave a considerable Aug­mentation to the Estate of this House, She built the Cloister where are yet remaining her Arms in several places. These Nuns observe the Rule of St. Francis somewhat nearer than the Cordelier [Page 164] Friers of the great Convent in Paris; there is nothing of singular note in their Church, no more than in that of

St. Medard, the Parish-Church of this Quar­ter; where there hapned in the last Age a furi­ous Tumult, raised by the Calvinists who came flocking with Arms in hand to Massacre the Ca­tholicks being then at Vespers; the cause pre­tended was that the noise of the Bells of this Church did disturb them in hearing their Ser­mon which at that time was in a house close by. But they were punished for their Rashness; for the Citizens taking Arms, killed all those that fell in their power. This was the first occasion of that hatred which the Parisians bear to those of the pretended Reformed Religion; and the Historians observe that from that time the Calvi­nists threw off their Mask and went arm'd in the Streets of Paris, but the Catholicks not being able to endure this, it was the occasion of many Disorders which hapned afterwards.

Monsieur Patru from whom we have a Vo­lume of Pleadings extremely fine, is interred in this Church. Monsieur d'Ablencour had so great an esteem for his Judgment that on his death-bed he recommended his Works to his Correction.

In this Quarter near the little Church of S. Hippolytus, is an ancient house built in the time of St. Lewis which is not far from the River des Gobelins, where that good King would some­times use to pass his hours of Solitude, in Prayer. It is said that under Charles VI. there happened here a very unhappy accident, which was partly the cause of the distraction with which that Prince was afflicted the greatest part of his Reign. [Page 165] The Story is thus reported. The Parisians, who always made it their glory passionately to love their King, being desirous to enter­tain Charles VI. with a Ball in this house, upon his return from a great Victory which he had gained over the Revolted Flemings; The King was at this Entertainment with ma­ny Lords disguised like Salvages, and apparelled in Linnen pitcht over and covered with Flax, like hair, and so close fitted to the Body that it seemed to be the natural skin; as he was dan­cing with the young Lords one of the Company approaching too near, a Flambeau held by a Prince who was desirous to discover the King from the rest, it hapned that the Flame caught the Flax and burnt furiously; and they being all fastened to one another, the King could find no security but by casting himself all covered with Flames as he was, into the Arms of the Dutchess of Ber­ry, who very happily being then present extin­guished the Flame by covering him all over with her great Gown. The other Masquers were all either stifled or roasted alive and died within two days after, the King and Mantoüillet only escaping, which last cast himself headlong into a Tub of Water, which he hapned to light of not far from the place. After this sad accident Charles began to fall extreme Morose and Me­lancholy, and the Idea of so great a peril prepared his brain for that madness which seized upon him near the Town of Mans, in such manner as is recorded by Monsieur de Mezeray. And this is all that is to be seen in this Fauxbourg.

The Gates by which you go into the Town are two, that of St. Victor near the Abby of that [Page 166] name, of which Abby we have already spoken. This Gate was lately repaired but not with so great expence as the others. There is only re­presented in Basse▪taille over the Arch, a great Ship of War, which are the Town Arms, with this Inscription beneath it,

The other Gate is that of St. Marcel, behind St. Geneviéue du Mont.

Near this on the Fosse between the two Gates lives Monsieur de Troyes, whose Pictures you ought not to sail of seeing. He was sent by the King into Bavaria to take the Picture of Ma­dame the Dauphiness. Few Painters have been more successful than he after the Life. This hath attained him the Practice of most Persons of Quality, who cause themselves to be drawn by his hand.

We shall say nothing of the Convent of English Nuns, nor of the House of the Fathers of the Christian Doctrine, which are also upon the same Fosse, there being nothing curious about them to remark, unless it be one of the best Prospects that we can see, by reason of the high situation of the Place where these two houses stand.

The Ʋniversity Quarter.

THIS Quarter is one of the antientest and best Peopled of all Paris. It takes up a very great space of Ground, al­most the fourth part of the Town. Philip Augustus, at such time as he went to Pa­lestine, with Richard King of England, against [Page 2] the Sarrazins, gave order that during his Jour­ney (which lasted a whole Year) this Quar­ter should be inclosed with Walls; some Remains of which one may perceive at this Day.

The University of Paris is so antient, that, as some hold, Charlemagne was its Founder. This o­pinion is built upon certain old Titles, which are preserved with great care. Notwithstanding there are many Learned Men, who are of a con­trary opinion; among others Monsieur Joli, Grand Chanter of Nostre-Dame, who has clearly proved his Sentiments, in his Little Tract of the Episcopal Schools. But if it be doubtful, whether it were founded by that Great Emperor; it is however most certain, that it began to appear in a very little time after his Reign, which was in France a Glorious one, for Learning and Learn­ed Men, to whom this great Prince shewed all the Favour that could be. And in Gratitude, they have rendered him famous to Posterity, not only as the most knowing Emperor of that Age; but al­so the Bravest and most Glorious. In the mean time, the University have taken him for their Pa­tron, and on the Day of his Feast, the Exercises cease in all Colledges. We shall say nothing of its antient Splendor, nor of the Credit and Au­thority, which it formerly enjoyed. It is well known, that most of the great Affairs, have been transacted by the advice of this University, and that Kings have not disdain'd to Consult it, in their most pressing Occasions. Popes themselves have in a manner appeal'd hither, and have of­ten sued for the Suffrages of this University, to authorise their Elections, and support them against Competitors.

Monsieur Duboulay in the History which he [Page 3] hath made of this University in three Volumes, in Folio, makes mention of many Illustrious Per­sons, who have issued from hence. It hath been so numerous and so full of Scholars, that we ought not to omit observing here, one surpris­ing thing, which happened under Charles VI. That Prince being fallen into a Distraction, pub­lick Prayers and Processions were appointed to be made for his Recovery. All the Companies and Communalties went afoot, in Procession to St. Denis in France; and the Parliament, as the prin­cipal Body of the Kingdom, begun this Act of Piety. The University had also their appointed day to go thither, and Juvenal des Ʋrsins records. That all the Scholars were obliged to assist with their several Heads and Members, who belonged to them: He adds, That they all made so great a number of Men, that the beginning of the Pro­cession, was entering into the Church of St Denis, when the Rector, who went last, was hardly gone out of the Church of the Mathu­rins, where they first met together. The num­ber of Scholars and Colledges is now very much diminished. Formerly one might have reckoned one Hundred, at present you can hardly find Thirty: Among which there are only nine that maintan Exercises (Des basses Classes) of the lower Classes, and they are

The Colledge du Plessis.

The Colledge d'Harcourt.

The Coll. de Navarre.

The Coll. de Beauvais.

The Coll. of the Cardinal le Moyne.

The Coll. de la Marche.

The Coll. de Lizieux.

[Page 4] The Coll. des Grassins.

The Coll. of Clermont, wholy employed by the Jesuits, of which we shall speak by it self.

It is needless to insert the names of the o­thers, where they do not teach; they are but little known, and serve only for the Lodgings of certain Scholars, called Boursiers, who live there upon the Pensions which the Colledge al­lows them yearly. The University had also its own Jurisdiction apart, and if any of its Mem­bers had committed any Crime, it was not per­mitted for the Publick Judge to condemn them. Of this you may read an Example in an Epitaph, in the Mathurins Cloister. Two Scholars having done certain Crimes worthy of Death, were Executed by Sentence of the Provost of Paris: The University conceiving themselves wounded in this Sentence, suspended their Exer­cises, and by this means obliged the Provost of Paris, to bring back the Bodies of these two Scholars to the Mathurins, after he had himself taken them down from the Gallows at Montfau­con, where they there hung; and after he had kist their Cheeks, tho they had been Executed above four Months. There are many Examples of this sort. But since that time things are very much changed; and though at present the Uni­versity is full of Persons of great Learning, yet her Credit and Authority are mightily diminish­ed; especially since about the middle of the last Age, she has suffered some Losses, which she will have much ado ever to repair.

In the mean time this hinders not, but that the Sciences flourish here, more than in any other part of Europe, and are here taught with much [Page 5] Success and Profit. The University is divided in­to four Faculties, and over them all they have for their Head, a Rector, who is chosen every three Months. Formerly they chose him every six Weeks, but of late four times a Year hath been thought often enough. The four Faculties are

DIVINITY,

LAW,

PHYSICK,

The ARTS.

Divinity is profest only in the Sorbonne, and in the Colledge of Navarre. For the Law, as it is divided into the Civil Law, and the Canon Law, so there are Professors for both in a Col­ledge, which stands in the Rue Saint Jean de Beauvais. About two years since, the King hath founded a new Chair for the French Law, pos­sest by Monsieur de Launay, who makes his Le­ctures in the Colledge of Cambray near St. Ben­net's Fountain. There is but one Colledge for Physick, and that is in the Rue de la Bucherie; where there is an Amphitheater (as the Physick Bills call it) in which they often make Dissections of humane Bodies.

As for the Faculty of the Arts, which is the last, that is subdivided into four Nations: The Nation of France, the Nation of Picardy, the Nation of Normandy, and the Nation of Ger­many; the last of these was put in the room of that of England, excluded by reason of those cru­el Wars, which have been between the French and English. These four Nations are again sub­divided into other Provinces, which would be too long to recite.

[Page 6] This is what may be said in general of the University, of which I shall say more in des­cribing the remarkable Places therein.

I begin this Quarter at the Key called, Quay de la Tournelle, from whence you pass before a House built by the late Monsieur Martin. In which Madam de Miramion, so well known by all pious People, hath about eight years since settled a new Company of Nuns, who live under the Rule of St. Austin, of the Congregation of St. Geneviéve. Of this new Company she is the Foundress. The House is well built and deserves to be seen. Near this is

The Hôtel de M. de Nemond, one of those Presidents, who are called Presidents a Mortier, in which House you will see very good Furni­ture, but above all a Library well furnisht, which this Illustrious Magistrate often visits. From hence you pass into

The Rüe de Bernardins, which lies on the left hand, in which Street are several very pretty Houses; among others, one wherein lives Mon­sieur du Vaurouy. Here are some Paintings of the last Age well esteemed. A little further you will enter into

The Colledge of the Bernardins, which serves for all those who are of the Order of Cister­tians. It is an antient Foundation, but that which is most observable, is the great design of Pope Bennet XII. who was formerly a Religi­ous Man of this Order, and who desired to ren­der his name Illustrious, in building this Col­ledge of a Surprising Magnificence. The Walls that enclose the Ground, are of a wonderful thickness and solidity; and one would think, that the Holy Father would rather enclose a Citta­del, [Page 7] than a Colledge of Religious Men; the Chapter-House is perfectly well Vaulted over­head, and at present serves for their School. But that which is more Beautiful is the Structure of their Church, which ought to be considered as one of the fairest Gothick Buildings in all France; its Roof is of an extraordinary heighth, with Chappels on each side. True it is, that but part of this great Work is finisht, by rea­son of the Holy Father's Death, which hap­pened too soon; however by his Last Will be appointed, That what he had begun should be compleated, and to that end he left a Summ of Money; but that falling into the Hands of Rob­bers on the way, as they conveyed it into France, during those Troubles, which happen­ed in the Reign of Charles VI. the Work re­mained imperfect as it now is. One the side next the Sacristy, you ought to ask to see a little turning Stair-Case, very curiously contrived, in which two People may at the same time ascend and descend, without being seen to each other. This is by two winding Ascents, like a Snails Shell, managed one upon the other in the same round Space or Room. Th [...]s piece is admired by such Curious Persons who have seen it, in regard there are but very few Parallels. When the General of the Cistertians comes to Paris, he usually makes his abode in this House.

We ought to observe, that several Religious Orders have a right to have Colledges in this University, whose Members may take Degrees, and pass Doctors; but some others have neg­lected this advantage, or the University hath not granted it to them for special Reasons.

[Page 8] As you go out of the Bernardins, on the left Hand, you find the Church of St. Nicolas du Chardonnet, newly Rebuilt of a very handsom De­sign. This Church is so called, in regard it stands on a piece of Ground, formerly over-run with Thistles (in French called Chardons.) Which Ground the Monks of Victor gave for the build­ing of a Parish Church, much wanting in this Quarter. The Church is not yet quite finisht. All that is Curious here, is a Chappel where Monsieur le Brun hath begun to Work. You may here see the Tomb of his Mother, designed by himself, and wrought in Marble by the Sieur Baptiste, on which there are very delicate Figures.

All this Quarter hath nothing very remark­able. From hence you go to the Carmes, at the Entry of St. Geneviéve's Hill, near the Place-Maubert, which is one of the greatest Markets of all Paris.

The Carmes of the Place-Maubert.

I Have already said, when I treated of the Celestins, that the Carmes (or Carmelites) were Founded there by Saint Lewis, which Or­der he brought with him out of Palestine. But in regard that place was so far distant from the Uni­versity, and in respect of the overflowings of the Seine, they thought it convenient to come and Inhabit in this Place, in the Reign of Philip the Long; whose Queen Jane did, by her Testament in the Year 1349, leave them great Riches; a­mong [Page 9] other things, she gave them her Crown of Gold, set about with divers Precious Stones of considerable Value; also the Flower-de-Lys of Gold, which she received at her Coronation, her Girdle set with Pearis, and all her Silver Vessels; together with the Summ of Fifteen Hundred Flo­rins of Gold, which in those days amounted very high. They made use of all this to build their Church, and their Covent, which have nothing ve­ry handsom. There is in this Church a great Devo­tion to our Lady of Mount-Carmel, to which resort a very great number of People, who are devo­ted to the Holy Virgin, in order to gain certain Indulgences, and this is every second Sunday of the Month. Not long ago they Rebuilt their Great Altar, after a design very singular; it is supported with Pillars of Free-stone, Painted like Marble, which make a very handsom shew.

On St. Geneviéve's Hill, as you go to the Ab­by of that name you pass before

The Colledge of Navarre, the Fairest and most Spacious of all Paris; it was Founded by Queen Jane of Navarre, Wife of Philip the Fair, as ap­pears by the Inscriptions under the Statue of that King and Queen, on the side of the great Gate, which are as follows:

[Page 10] Under the Queen's Statue,

In the middle are these two Verses,

This Colledge was formerly the most renown'd of all the University. The Sons of the greatest Lords of the Kingdom, were here put to Pen­sion, and that their Commerce with other Schol­lars, might not waste their Allowance; they then received none but Pensioners: But this Me­thod is changed at present, and now they admit to their Exercises, all sorts of Scholars indiffe­rently. Divinity is taught here, as hath been already said, and four Professors have Salleries to read their Lectures; two in the Morning, and two in the Afternoon.

[Page 11] Monsieur the Arch-Bishop of Auch is Provisor of this Colledge. They have here a Library, given by Queen Jane of Navarre, which was formerly of great Reputation, before the use of Printing. It contains several very curious Ma­nuscripts. This Colledge has produced more Fa­mous Men of Learning than any other. The Chief of whom is Pierre d'Ailly, Cardinal by the Title of Saint Crisogon, and Arch Bishop of Cam­bray, who was a great Benefactor here, as is to be seen by an Inscription in the Chapel. He is interred at Cambray In the middle of the same Chapel, is the Tomb of the illustrious Thomas de Clemengis, a Famous Doctor in Divinity, and on it is this Inscription;

John Textor is also here interr'd. The other Famous Men are Gerson, Joannes Major, Almai­nus de Castro Forri, Papillon, Gelin, de Villers, and Pelletier: The last of which was the great Master of this Colledge, and was present at the Council of Trent. Of late they have had Monsi­eur de Launcy, a Famous Critick, who hath Com­posed several Volumes of the Ecclesiastic History, and who, perhaps, hath best understood, of all of this Age, the Annals of the Church, as appears by his Works, so much sought after by the Learn­ed. He hath also writ the History of this Col­ledge.

[Page 12] Note that this Hill was formerly called Mons Locutitius, but for what reason is not known. Higher on the Hill, where this Colledge stands, is the Abby of St. Geneviéve, and next to it

The Church of St. Estienne du Mont, a Parish Church. This Church is of so old a Foundation, that it is not certainly known in what time it was first Built. That Building which we see at present, was undertaken in the Reign of Francis the First, and after it had remain'd a long time imperfect, it was not finished till under Henry IV. Queen Margaret of Valois, his first Wife, gave a Summ of Money for making the Portal, herself laying the first Stone, on the Twelfth of August, 1610. This Portal is curiously wrought, and they have bestowed there a profuse number of Sculptures, which had made a much better show, if they had been manag'd and disposed with more care. The inside of this Church is very neat, and lightsome; the Roof is very high and well extended. There are between Pillar and Pillar, certain Arches that support Galleries of Communication, and turn about each Pillar with much Art. The Tribune over the entrance into the Quire is very hardy, as are also the little Stairs that go up thither, which wind about the thick Pillars of the Croisée. The Chapel of the Holy Virgin, behind the great Altar, is also well Built. But that which the Curious ought to observe more carefully than all, is the Pulpit, which is of excellent Workmanship, adorn'd with Sculptures and Bas-reliefs, of a wonderful Design and Performance. The Statue of Samp­son supports the whole Body of the Work, about whom are placed several little Figures of Chri­stian Virtues: Upon the Canopy over-head, is [Page 13] a great Angel, holding Two Trumpets. All these things are perfectly well design'd; and this Pulpit, is, without contradiction, the most Beautiful of all Paris. It ought to be known, that Monsieur Pascal, one of the greatest Wits that France ever had, Author of that Incompa­rable Book, called Penseés sur la Religion, (Thoughts upon Religion) and of several others of the same Beauty and Learning, is Buryed in this Church. La Sueur a famous Painter, of whom I have already often made mention, is also here interr'd.

From hence you may pass into the Church of St. Genevi [...]ve, through a Door of Communica­tion, behind the Pulpit, but this is not the ordi­nary way. The usual Entrance is by the great Gate, which is in the open place before the Church.

St. Geneviéve du Mont.

BEfore we write of the Curiosities in this House, something ought to be said of its Foundation. Clovis, as some believe, was the first Founder, and Dedicated it to St. Peter and St. Paul, whose names it bore a long time. He placed here Secular Canons, who inhabited this House till the Reign of Lewis the Young, in the Eleventh Age, at which time the King constrain­ed them to take the Rule of St. Austin, and to live in Community, they having till then led very irregular Lives. To establish this new Reform, some Persons were brought over from [Page 14] St. Victors, and Monsieur de Mezeray acquaints us with the Reasons, which occasioned that King to do this. He says, That of old time be­yond Memory, there were certain Secular Canons in this House, who had been by the Solicitation of King Robert the Religious, freed from the Visitation of the Bishop, and placed immediately under that of the Holy See: But it happenning that Pope Engenius the Fourth, flying for refuge into France, and Lodging in this House, there happened a Dispute between the Canons and the Holy Father's Officers, on occasion, that the Canons would have taken to themselves an Imbroidered Carpet, which the King presented to his Holiness, to hang before his Prie Dieu (or Seat in the Church) they pre­tending that it ought to belong to, and remain in their Church. The Controversie was so hot, that they fell from Words to Blows, and the Canons being the stronger Party, assaulted the Pope's Officers so home, that they were some of them Kill'd. The King himself coming thither to appease the Tumult, thought he should have been Wounded in the disorder: To punish the Canons for this their insolence, the King agreed with the Holy Father to Expel them from this House, and to give the care of the Re­form to Suger, Abbot of St. Denis; who thereupon drew off 12. Canons Regular from St. Victors, and placed them here in the room of the others. Af­ter this manner, the Chapter was changed into an Abby, whose first Abbot was called Odo. Since that time the Rule of St. Austin hath always been observed here with much Purity, and this House is become the Chief of all the Congregation in France: The Abbot of which, with his four As­sistants, [Page 15] is the Head of the Order. This Abby had formerly a peculiar Jurisdiction, like that of St. Germain des Prez; but in regard this was found to be the cause of much Disorder and Con­fusion, they were all united to the Body of the Châtelet. Many Kings have been Benefactors to this House, but the greatest was King Robert, who built the old Cloister, which was taken down under Francis the First, who inclosed for them 17 Arpens (or Acres) of Land. The House hath been often ruined by the Normans and the Danes, while it was out of the Town; but the Devotion which the Parisians had for St. Gene­viéve, their Patroness, was the occasion that the Ruines made by those Barbarous People, were repaired again in a very little time after. The Body of St. Geneviéve is in the Shrine behind the great Altar, supported by 4 Ionick Pillars, of an extraordinary sort of Marble. The Chest is of Silver-gilt, enricht with Precious Stones of very great value. Father du Breüil, who hath Composed a Volume Of the Antiquities of Paris, tells us, That this Shrine was made by the Libe­ralities of several pious Persons, and that the Goldsmiths Work came to, One hundred four­score and thirteen Marks of Silver, and Eight Marks and an half of Gold to gild it. The Queen Mother, deceased, whose Piety will be a long time remember'd, in divers Parts of Paris, enricht this shrine with Nosegays composed of Pre­cious Stones, of a very considerable price. There hang round about several Lamps of Silver, and divers Figures of the same Mettal, which are all so many Vows made by sundry People to this Saint.

All that is of more than ordinary Curiosity in [Page 16] this Church, is the Tomb of Clovis the first Christian King; it stands in the middle of the Quire; his Figure which lies along upon the Tomb, is the same which was made for him after his Death. Some years since they have raised it two Foot and a half, to make room for this Inscription.

The Scepter which he holds in his Hand, and the Crown on his Head, appear to have been ad­ded of later time. Antiquarles need no longer [Page 17] doubt of the Antiquity of the Flower-de-Lys, if they could but believe the Crown on this King's Head, to have been made in his time; but the Flower-de-Lys's are too well fashioned for that, and have not at all the Ayr of antient time. The Altar is Isolé, that is, so contrived, that one may go round it. The little Taberna­cle is a very Beautiful thing. It is of White Marble, in form of a Dome of Eight Angles, with four Porticos, supported with small Corin­thian Pillars of Sicilian Marble, whose Capitals are of Brass gilt, very well carved, and Figures of Angels on the Pedestals, with other Orna­ments, of the same. The Body of this Taberna­cle is inlay'd with divers rich Stones, as Lapis Lazuli, Agate, and such like. All the Work stands upon a Foot (en cul de Lampe) like the bottom of a Lamp, of a blew Marble extream rare. On each side are two Statues, of St. Peter and St. Paul, St. Denis and St. Austin; these are of a kind of material Resembling Marble for its whiteness, but much lighter.

In the Nave of the Church are several Chap­pels, very well adorned with Marble Pillars. The Door that leads into the Quire, over which is the Jubé, is of Marble also, with Bas-reliefs upon the Attick. The Organs are extream handsom, and the Wainscot exactly well wrought. The most considerable Tombs next to that of Clovis, already mentioned, are the following, viz. That of Clotilda his Wife, reputed a Saint, in regard she was the principal cause of her Hus­band's Conversion, as Gregory of Tours relates. She is interr'd near the Steps going up to the great Altar. In a Chappel on the same side, with the Sacristy in the Mausoleum of the Cardinal de la [Page 18] Rochefaucault, whose Figure we see kneeling in White Marble, upon a great Urn of Black Mar­ble: On the fore-part of which are the Armes of the Abby of St. Geneviéve, of which he dyed Ab­bot. This is one of the best wrought Peices that can be seen.

In the Nave, Strangers and generally all those who have any respect or sentiments of Esteem for great and famous Men, are extreamly pleased to read the Epitaph of the famous René Descartes, one of the most Learned and Illustrious Phi­lophers of these last Ages. The Epitaph is as follows,

In the Vault under this Church, you may still see the Tomb of St. Geneviéve, tho there remains therein nothing of her Body, which is all entire in the Shrine, with the very Boards of her Cof­fin. This Tomb is of Marble without any Or­nament. At one end, upon an Altar which stands between two Pillars, is a Cross adorn'd with certain Agates, with an Ecce Homo at the Foot of it, of one intire piece of Coral, very well wrought. These things come from the Ca­binet of the Rev̇erend Father du Molinet, whose [Page 21] Present it was. There are two other Tombs very antient, of two Bishops of Paris, who dyed with the reputation of Sanctity, and who are invo­ked on the account of some particular Distempers.

From hence you ought to go and see the Sacri­sty, which you will find very well furnisht with Ornaments of divers Colours very rich, and with a great quantity of Plate. There is no place in this Kingdom, and perhaps in all Eu­rope, where the divine Offices are Celebrated with more Devotion and Majesty, than in this Church: All the Religious are extreamly regu­lar, and one is much Edified to see them in the Ceremonies of the Church.

In the inward parts of the House there are ma­ny curious things, particularly as to the Archi­tecture; about ten years since they have made considerable Reparations. The great Gate was very inconvenient; and they have built another in the place, after the manner of a double Portico, supported by Pillars of the Dorick Order, very re­gularly proportioned, with two Square Pavilions at the Extremities. Over against this Gate is a Fountain at the Feet of a Figure of St. Geneviéve, in a kind of Niche or Arch, set off with two Io­nick Pillars. After this we enter into the Cloi­ster, or rather under a kind of Portico, suppor­ted on both sides with Dorick Pillars, like those at the Entrance, but of a handsomer Orderance. At the further end of this Portico, about thirty Paces long, stands the great Stair-case, which leads to the Dortoirs, at the further end of which is a Figure of the Holy Virgin, holding the In­fant JESUS in her Armes; it is of Excellent Workmanship, as one may easily perceive. The Dortoirs have nothing of Magnificent. Their [Page 22] only care is, that all things throughout the place should appear neat, as well as in the Low­er Rooms, in which you may see several Pictures of the antient Abbots of this House. The Gar­den is very pleasant, it is the greatest of all those that were within the antient Walls of Paris. On that side next the Portico, of which we have been speaking, you may go into a Chappel dedicated to the Holy Virgin, round which are hung seve­ral Pictures of Devotion well Painted. In the middle of this Chappel is a Tomb about a Foot high, on which is the Figure in Brass of an anti­ent Bishop, in his Pontificial Habits. After you have seen these things, you ought to visit tho Apothecary-Room, which is extraordinary neat, and where there are several Curiosities, for those who are knowing in these matters.

From hence you ought to go up to the Library, which at present is esteemed one of the fairest and best furnisht of Paris. It takes up the upper Room of one of those four great Wings, which compose this building. It is, in truth, a little too high scituated, but in recompense of that it is so much the lighter. You have there a very great num­ber of Books, placed in Presses of very handsom Wainscot, with the busts of all the great Men of Antiquity, Coppied from those at Versailles. The Reverend Father du Molinet, one of the most Learned and able Men of this Age, in the knowledge of Books, and in the curious search of Antiquity, hath the over-sight and care in these matters. They preserve here a great quantity of Prints, part of which came from one called Monsieur Hacart, who was a very curious Person, and dying left all that he had Collected to St. Victors, St. Germains des Prez, and S. Ge­neviéve's, [Page 23] but they have here a great many o­thers more rare and better kept.

At the end of the Library you enter into the Cabinet of the foresaid Father, which is extra­ordinarily well furnished with Curiosities; you may there find all sorts, but chiefly Meddals of Gold, Silver and of Brass bigger and lesser, ve­ry well chosen, and some of them extream rare. We ought to consider this sett of Meddals, which this Father himself hath Collected, as the fullest and most Compleat, in all France, next to that in the King's Cabinet.

Among other Extraordinary things, in a little Press you may see certain consecrated Knives, with which the Antients used to cut the Throats of their Victims; a great Platter in which they mixt Wheat, Flower, Oyl and Wine, with which they used to rub the Beasts they Sacrificed; certain Sphinxes or Idols, found among the Mo­mies; Antique Keys; Stiles, or steel Pens, which the Romans used to write with; a Copper Ta­ble, to which are fastened several little Balls of the same Mettal, which may be placed as a Man pleased, these the Antients used to cast account with; several sorts of Lacrimatories, or Glass-Viols, in which they used to preserve the Tears of those, who they hired on purpose to Weep at Funerals, with several little Copper Spoons that they made use of to gather the Tears up with, from Leather Aprons, which they wore before them at that time, on purpose for the Tears to fall in. In another little Press on the Right Hand, are all sorts of Measures for Liquids, and Weights to weigh things sold, according to the usage of the Antients. In another, he keeps all the Graving Tools of Parmezan, with which that [Page 24] Famous Graver used to Counterfeit the old Me­dals of the Antients so exactly, that the most skil­ful in this Art have been deceived, and have taken the Counterfeit Medals, made by that able Work­man, for true ones, and stampt in the times of those Men which they represent. This was per­haps one of the Curiousest Actions that could be done,. and those who are skilful in these mat­ters esteem them much. Together with these things, you may see here several Peices of Op­ticks, invented by Father Niseron, a Minim, of whom we have formerly made mention; the Poot of a small Mummy, very well preserved; cer­tain extraordinary Fishes; and another Rarity, which in the Ages past, was esteemed an entire Treasure of it self, and that is a great Unicorn's Horn, white as Ivory, five or six Poot in heighth, and of a considerable thickness, it is no less Beau­tiful than that in the Treasury at St. Denis; for which, as it is said, the Republick of Venice did once offer, One hundred thousand Crowns, to have Presented it to a King of Persia. In another small Cabinet, there are all sorts of Rich Stones, Shells and Minerals exceeding rare, and such like things. Over against the Door, where you en­ter, are divers kinds of Habits, made of the Feathers of Paroquets, and other Birds, wrought together with great Art, and brought from Ame­rica; a Cuirass and a Corselet of Japan, made of Vernish, and of an unusual shape; a Sheild made of Silk, probably coming from the same Country; and that which can hardly be seen elsewhere, a great number of Shoes belonging to almost all Nations in the Levant, extreamly different in Shape, from what we wear. There is also a Chain made of Wood, very light and very long, [Page 25] all made out of one piece; several petrified things very curious; and among the rest one Stone com­posed of divers Pieces, in such manner, that we cannot discern, whether it be the production of Art or Nature. There are many other Rari­ties to observe, as the Jaw of a Fish, of extraor­dinary greatness, having in it several Rows of sharp Teeth; several good Pictures, with divers other rare and well Collected things. This Re­verend Father is not only knowing in these mat­ters, but he hath Written several Learned Pieces, as, A Defence of Thomas a Kempis; A Dis­course upon the Brass-Head, which was found at Monsieur Berrier's; The History of the Popes by their Medals; The Works of Stephen de Tourney, augmented very considerably with divers Pieces, never. yet Printed; and a learned Commentary, which clears many obscure places, which would have scarcely been understood without his Assi­stance; and in fine, The History of the Roman Learn­ing estab [...]ished, and justified by many Excellent Antiqui­ties, which last he has publisht this present Year, 1684. There have been many able Men of this Abby, among others Father Lalleman, who lived not long ago, and gain'd to himself great Repu­tation by his Books of Devotion, namely, The Death of the Righteous, and the Saints desire of Death, the Reading of which is extream mo­ving. The Reverend Father de Creil, now Living, passes for one of the best Architects that are, and the Designs which he has invented, have been followed with good success; among others, those in the New-buildings of this House. In all the rest of this Quarter there is nothing Curious, be­ing all fill'd with Colledges, and those are but old Houses ill built.

[Page 26] The Colledge of Montaigu, or of the Capets, is very near. Of which Colledge the Chapter of Nostre-Dame, and the Carthusian Fathers are Ad­ministrators. Formerly they entertain'd here poor Scholars, who were obliged to live under a very severe Discipline; but at present that Custom is alter'd. It ought to be observ'd, that the famous Erasmus of Roterdam, did for some time dwell in this Colledge.

Next to this Quarter, we ought to go into the Rüe Saint Jacques, which Street begins at the Little Châtelet, at the end of the Petit Pont.

The Little CHATELET.

THis is a kind of antient Fortress, composed of a great mass of Buildings, open in the middle, and served formerly as one of the Town-Gates, as did also the great Châtelet; this was when Paris had no greater Extent than the Isle of the Palais. This Building was repair'd by King Robert, under whom France enjoy'd a Peace of two and forty years; during which that good Prince had convenient time to amass a very great Treasure, which he deposited in this For­tress, notwithstanding the great Bounties, which he bestowed upon Churches, and his great Charities, with which he relieved the Poor. Some Antiquaries will not allow this place to be so Antient, but say that it was Built by Aubriot, Provost of Paris, the same person who Built the Bastille; and that he did it to restrain the Insolences of the Scholars of the [Page 27] University, who often used to make Invasions on the Townsmen, and thereby occasioned very great Disorders.

THE RUE SAINT JACQUES.

THis Street is almost all inhabited by Booksellers, by reason of the Neigh­bouring University. The first thing of Note that you observe here, is

The Church of Saint Severin, which is very Antient, and one may think so, in regard the Patron himself was the Founder: Who lived in the Reign of Clovis, and was by him invited out of Savoy, where he was at that time a Hermite, to come into France, and cure him of a grievous Fever, with which that King was afflicted; and was at last cured through the Prayers of this Holy Man. During his abode at Paris, he dwelt in this place, at that time very solitary; where there had been already built a small Chappel in a Wood, Dedicated to St. Clement: Having re­main'd here some time, he resolved to return to his former dwelling; but as he past by Château-Landon, a small Village in Gatinois, he met with two Priests, who dwelt there in the reputation of Sanctity; he stopt his Journey, and after two years abode with them, he dyed there. Childe­bert [Page 28] caused a Church to be built in the same place, which is at present an Abby of St. Augu­stine's Order, of the Congregation of St. Gene­viéve. It is not well known when this Parish-Church was built, but according to Appearance it is not above 200. years old. There is nothing to be seen in it of Curiosity, it being but an old Go­thick Building, not very regular, and very dark in some places. The great Altar was finisht but a while ago; it is composed of eight small Marble Pillars, disposed in form of a Semi-Circle, which support a Dome cut in half, as it were, with some Ornaments of Brass gilt, which shew very handsomly; it is the Workmanship of Monsieur le Brun. In the Church-Yard, the side next the Church, is raised a Tomb, upon which in a demicumbent Posture, is the Figure of a Young Lord of East-Friseland, who dyed here, being a Scholar of this University. His Name was d'Embda. The Tomb was built by his Mo­ther's Order; a Lady extraordinarily afflicted at his Death, he being her only Son, and the Pre­sumptive Heir of Friseland. The two Epitaphs on his Monument are as follow:

On the other side of the Tomb are these Verses:

On the other side of the Rüe Saint Jacques, as you enter into the Rüe Galande, which Street butts upon the former, there stands a very anti­ent Church named

Saint Julien le Pauvre, which, doubtless, was formerly an Hospital. Gregory of Tours, in the ninth Book and the ninth Chapter of his Works mentions it; and tells us, That coming to Paris on certain private affairs, he Lodged in this place, at such time as they had taken a Notorious Cheat, who pretended he had brought from Spain certain precious Reliques, among others some of St. Vincent, and St. Felix, with which, no doubt, he would have abused the Credulity of the Parisians. But when his pretended Reliques came to be examined, they found in his Bag no­thing but the Roots of divers Plants, the Teeth of Moles, the Bones of Mice, with the Fat and Claws of Bears. Which things being appre­hended to serve only for some Magical use or other, they were all thrown into the River. The Cheat himself was committed close Prisoner, and put in Chains, according to the Custom of those times. This happen'd in the Reign of Chilperic, who was unhappily slain just enter­ing into his Palace at Chelles, as he return'd from Hunting, about the Year Five hundred Eighty four.

A little further on in the Rüe Saint Jacques, is

[Page 31] The Church of Saint Yves, built in the year 1347. at the Charge and Care of a [...]amous Confra­ternity of Bretons, at that time residing at Paris, and who caused Divine Service to be there Celebrated daily, by certain Ecclesiasticks, whom they hired. On the side of this Chappel lyes

The Rüe des Noïers, which hath been of late en­larged, and thereby render'd much more com­modious than formerly.

The MATHURINS.

THE Convent of these Fathers stands a lit­tle higher in the other side of the Street. St. Lewis was their [...]ounder, and they are of the Holy Trinity of the Redemption of Captives. Their principal Institution is to go into Barbary, and there ransom. Christian Slaves out of the Hands of the Infidels, and procure their Liber­ty. From time to time they make these Voyages, assisted by the Contributions of pious People, who supply those great Expences which they can­not avoid. It is not long since they brought over a great number, which we saw here with much Edification. Their Church is very light­som, though it is built after the Modern way. It was built in the form we now see it, by the means of Robert Gaguin, Minister, and General of the whole Order, who was an Illustrious Per­son in his time, and hath Composed divers Books; among others The History of Lewis XII. How­ever some think, that this Church was be­gun before his time, and that he only finisht [Page 32] it. He lies interr'd in the middle of the Quire. Formerly you might have read his Epitaph there; but when the Church was raised, it was removed from that place. It is this:

In the Cloister there are also some Tombs; a­mong others that of Sacro-Bosco, a very famous Mathematician. This is his Epitaph:

Near this is another Epitaph of a Famous Lawyer, who was the Master of Papirius Mas­son.

[Page 34] Lastly, here is the Tomb of the two Scholars, named Leger Moussel, and Oliver Bourgeois, who were hang'd at Montfaulcon in the Year 1408, on the 17th. of May, by Sentence of the Provost of Paris, without regard to the Priviledges of the University; who afterwards demanded that famous Satisfaction, which we have already spoken off in the 4th. Folio of this Second Part. Of late they have made many Considerable De­corations in this Church. The great Altar is a­dorn'd with Pillars of a kind of reddish Marble, very rare. The little Tabernacle upon that Altar is also very Beautiful: So are the two lesser Al­tars on each side of the great one, adorn'd with Pillars very well wrought. The Quire of this Church is separated from the Nave by a kind of Balustrade, or rather by six Ionick Pillars of Marble, supporting a Cornish, on which there are several little Figures of Angels, very well design­ed. The rest of the Church is Wainscoted with Joyners Work, full of Sculpture, with a great number of Grenades, which are the Arms of the present General of the Order, who hath been at the Expence of all these new Reparations. The University assemble in the Chapter-House of this Convent, when they make their Processions; which usually happens every three Months, at which the Rector is constantly present. He is also obliged to give a Summ of Money to all those that assist at the Ceremony. These Processions ought to be seen and observed by Strangers, and are well worth their Curiosity; the Show being very numerous, and disposed in excellent Order. The four Faculties are obliged to appear there, in the proper and peculiar Habits belonging to them. The Money which the Rector disburses [Page 35] on this occasion, arises out of the Revenues of the University, which amount to the Summ of Fifty thousand Franks, arising out of the Messageries (or Carriage of Goods) between certain Towns of this Kingdom, and also from several Houses Situated in divers places of Paris. Formerly they possest much greater Revenues, but they have been lost by the negligence of those, who of late Years have had the Administration of their affairs. From hence you pass before

The Church of Saint Benoit, supposed to be Founded by St. Denis, who Dedicated it to the Holy Trinity; if so, none can doubt it to be of very great Antiquity. It is possest by Canons Secular, who are obliged on the great Feasts to accompany the Canons of Nostre-Dame, when they make their grand Processions. The Build­ing or Structure of this Church is nothing Beau­tiful, as being carried up at several times and by pieces. The Nave was built in the Reign of Fran­cis the First, and four years since the Quire was Rebuilt anew very handsomly. The inside is embellisht with Corinthian Pilasters, which sup­port a Cornish of a very good Gust. This Church is very lightsome, and has not now the defect which it sometimes had; which was, that the great Altar was contrived on the West side; since, when it was new built in the last Age, they quite changed that Disposition; which occasion'd that it has been call'd, St. Benoist le bien tourné, or St. Bennet's the well contrived. For in those days they were very exact, in contriving the Churches East and West, even to a kind of Scruple.

On the other side of the Street St. Jacques, o­ver against the hinder part of the Quire of this [Page 36] Church is a small open-place, or Court, at the Entrance into which stands a Fountain which bears its name. The place is called La Terre de Cambray, from the Colledge of that Name there Situated. You have there also

The Colledge Royal, whose original Founder was Francis the First, the Father and Restorer of Learning in France. 'Twas he that instituted most of the Lectures in Law and Physick in this University, and invited hither the ablest Men he could find, to teach here the Mathematicks, Philosophy, and the Greek, Latin, Syriack, and Hebrew Tongues. He intended to have raised here a great Building, but his design being never executed, because of his great Expences in the Wars, which he had on all the Frontiers of his Kingdom, especially in Italy; he left the Work to be done by his Son Henry the Second, who neglected, or at least had not a Conveniency of doing it. The Professors all the while read their Lectures in the Colledge of Cambray, and remain'd in this Condition till under the Reign of Henry the Great, who in the Year 1609. on the 23. of November, sent the Cardinal du Perron, the Duke of Suilly, first Minister, the President de Thou, and a Counsellor of Parliament named Monsi­eur Gillot, to view the Situation of the place, and if there was sufficient Room, to raise the Building projected. It should have been com­posed of a main Front, and on each Hand two Wings, with a Court, in the midst of which should have been a Fountain. The lower Rooms were designed for Schools, and the first Story on one side, for the Royal Library, which was then at Fountainbleau, and is at present kept in the Rué Vivien. The Professors also should there [Page 37] have had their Lodgings, which would have been of great advantage; but these excellent Pro­jects were never executed, by reason of the Tra­gick Death of that great King, of whom France was rob'd in a time when she least expected it. Queen Mary of Medieis his Illustrious Wife, to second the Zeal of the King her Husband, re­solved to finish what he had begun; and to that purpose she her self with her Son Lewis XIII. at that time but nine Years old, went to the place. The Young King laid the first Stone, and the Work was carried on with fervency; but in the end it was once again broke off, and re­mains as we see it, having never been thought of, to be continued, from that time to this. There is but one side finisht, and that stands in the same place, where formerly stood the Colledge called de Treguier. The Professors are paid by the King, and are a kind of Body distinct from the University, to which, however, they are sub­ject. They enjoy the same Priviledges with the Officers of the King's Household; and the Re­ctor of the University is not permitted to dispose their places, nor to prohibit their Exercises, which he may do to all other Professors. They have always been persons of singular Note, and extraordinary Merit.

The most Famous have been; in the Greek Tongue Adrian Turnebe, Native of Andeli in Nor­mandy, who dyed in the Year 1565, being but Fif­ty three Years of Age. Denis Lambin succeeded him, and hath left behind him many excellent Works.

In the Hebrew Tongue, Francis Vatable, ori­ginally of Picardy; he hath writ several Com­mentaries upon divers Authors, much esteem'd. [Page 38] Gilbert Genebrard, Doctor in Divinity, of the Or­der of St. Bennet, and Prior of St. Denis de la Char­tre, near the Pont Nostre-Dame. He was Elected Arch-Bishop of Aix in Provence, and dyed in March 1597. There are extant several Works of his, the Catalogue of which are at the end of the Book Entituled La Liturgie Sainte. The formerly men­tioned Calignon was another Professor here for this Tongue; he hath composed a Grammar which is much esteemed. Ralph Baines an English-man, who writ three Books of Commentaries on So­lomon, according to the Hebrew Phrase, which he Dedicated to Henry the Second.

In the Mathematicks there have been Oronce Finé, Native of the Town of Briançon in Dau­phiné; and Paschal du Hamel, who succeeded him.

In the Latin Eloquence Barthelemy Latomus, and John Passerat.

The two most famous among those who have taught Philosophy here, were Francis Vicomereat, originally of Verona, and Peter de la Ramée of Cuth in Vermandois, who lived about the Year 1568.

Finally, those who have most excelled in Phy­sick are, Vidus Vidius, Jacques Silius of Amiens, and John Rioland. These are those whose Names are of greatest Note, on the account of the Learned Works which they have left behind them. One can hardly find out any one Colledge, that has produced more Learned Men than this, although it be of no great Antiquity.

Over against this last mentioned Colledge, is, The Commandery of St. John de Latran, which de­pends on the Order of Malta. It is a great piece of Ground full of Houses ill built, in which lodge [Page 39] all sorts of Workmen, not Masters, who may here manage their several Trades, without being disturb'd by the Jurates of the City. That which is here worth seeing, is the Tomb of Monsieur de Souvré; this is he who dyed Grand Prior of France, and who built some years before his Death, that fine House at the Temple. While he was only Commander of St. John de Latran, he caused this Tomb to be raised in the Church. It is all of Marble, his Effigies lying upon a great Urne of the same, accompanied with two Terms rising out of their Guénes, which are Channell'd and very well wrought. All this Monument is exactly Beautiful, and of a very singular Design. It is the Work of Monsieur Anguerre, one of the ablest Sculptors that France ever produced. The Body of Monsieur de Souvré, is not interr'd in this place, but only his Heart. There is no­thing else remarkable. The Church in which this Monument is Erected, is very antient and ill built.

As you leave this place and go on in the Ruë Saint Jacques, you come to

The Colledge du Plessis, which was former­ly call'd, the Colledge of St. Martin, by rea­son that its first Founder Geoffrey du Plessis, Secre­tary to Pope John XXII. had a very great Devotion to that Saint But the Cardinal de Richelieu, to Eternize the Founder's Memory, restored it to his Name; and after he had Re­built it magnificently, he caused it to be called The Colledge du Plessis de Richelieu. This Colledge hath the best contrived and handsomest Lodgings of all the University, and is also the fullest of Pensioners and Scholars. The Doctors of the Sorbonne have the Direction of this Colledge, and place the Principal and Regents. A little higher in the Street is

The Jesuits Colledge.

OVer the Gate you read this fair Inscrip­tion,

COLLEGIUM LUDOVICI MAGNI.

The Colledge of Lewis the Great.

It was formerly called the Colledge of Clermont, being built for the Scholars of that Town, in imita­tion of some other Colledges of the University. In the last Age, Messire Guillaume Duprat, Bishop of Clermont, being at the Council of Trent, on be­half of this Kingdom of France, contracted there a particular Friendship with certain Fathers Je­suits, whom he met with at that Assembly; he con­ceived so high an esteem of their Learning, and Pi­ety, that at his return he brought them with him into France, to instruct our Youth in humane Learning; but more especially in the Purity of the Romish Religion, which at that time was disturb'd with the Heresie of Luther and Calvin. This Pre­late brought in his Company to Paris, Father Pa­quier Broüet, with several others of that Society, whom so long as he lived, he entertained in his own House; but at his Death left them by his Testament Three thousand Livres of Rent, and a very considerable Summ of Mo­ney; with which they purchased a void piece of Ground, then called the Court de Langres in the Ruë St. Jacques, being the place where they now are. This they named the Colledge [Page 41] of Clermont their great Benefactor, having been Bishop of that City. Henry III. was pleas'd to lay the first Stone, on which this Inscription was then graved

There is nothing of singular Remark in the Building belonging to this Colledge; yet there are here many Observable things, which you can hardly meet with elsewhere. As first, the great quantity of Chambers and Lodgings, fill'd to the least Corner, contriv'd with very great In­dustry. [Page 42] The great number of Pensionaries, most of which are of considerable Quality; besides the multitude of Scholars that come from abroad, which sometimes amount to Two or Three thou­sand. These study together in the most regular Order and Discipline of the World. The Schools are Six in number, besides those set apart for the Study of Philosophy, Divinity and the Ma­thematicks: Which last are not used, but only by Young Jesuits, who still pursue their Course of Studies, or at least by some Pensionaries, who de­sign not to take any Degrees in the University; for those who propose to themselves to be Masters of Arts, or Doctors, are obliged to study Philo­sophy in some of the Colledges of the University. One thing extream laudable among these Fathers is, that all their Scholars are obliged to go to Confession every Month; so that at the same time the Parents are freed from the Care, both of their Childrens Consciences, as well as Studies. The Chappel of this Colledge is small and ob­scure: It stands on the Right Hand as you en­ter: There is nothing to be seen there but upon Feast days, and at such time the Altar is one of the richest and best furnisht. They have there an Antipendium all of Silver, and another of a rich Embroidery of Gold, very high raised upon a Ground of Silver. The Apartments in the hinder part of the House, are more convenient than those in the fore part; the Armes of Monsieur Fouquet in their Front, speak him to be the Builder of that part; as also of the main Body of the Edifice, which is at the further part of the Garden, near the little Colledge de Marmoutier, which has been annext to this to augment it. In this apartment they have placed their Library, which, beyond [Page 43] all contradiction, is one of the fairest and most nu­merous of all Paris, as well for the Quality, as Quantity of Books, there to be seen. There is also a good number of antient Manuscripts, and of Heretical Books, chiefly of the Socinians, which fill almost a little Room themselves. Besides this a very excellent Collection of the Spanish History, as well general as particular Histories of the several Provinces of that Kingdom, and of the Famous persons who have therein inhabit­ed; these Authors are either in Spanish or Latin. There is also a great quantity of Mathematicians and Humanists, which take up a little Gallery, which they have contrived into several Presses: for altho this Library does consist of two long Wings of building; yet it is all too little, and they are forced to employ this Gallery, for the receit of the lesser Volumes. At one end of this Gallery hangs a piece of Bassan, representing the Combat of the Centaures and the Lapithites, this Monsieur Fouquet gave, having first built the Library where it hangs, and endowed it with a Thousand Livres of Rent, for its Maintenance and Augmentation. They preserve here an excel­lent Sett of Antient Medals, but being not dispo­sed into order, they seldom are willing to shew them. In this Colledge are many able Persons, among whom may be reckoned a considerable number of Authors; such as are now living, are Father Bouhours, Author of The Entretiens d Ariste & d'Eugene, in which you find so much Sweet­ness and such Purity of Language, that it seems a Man that would speak as an accomplisht Person, must be sure to imitate his stile; his other Works are The Doubts and Remarks on the French Tongue; The History of Peter d'Aubusson, Grand Master [Page 44] of Rhodes; The Life of Saint Ignatius, and the Life of St. Francis Xavier, Apostle of the In­dies; and certain Books of Devotion. Fa­ther Rapin, he hath writ The Spirit of Chri­stianity▪ The Importance of Salvation; The Belief of the last Ages; and Curious Instructions relating to History; with some Latin Poems. Father de la R [...]e, he hath Commented upon certain Antient Authors for the use of Monseigneur the Dauphin; and the Tragedies which use to be represented on the Theater at this Colledge, are very often Writ by him: one may say that he is alike able in many things, for the French Verses which have come from his Pen, have been much esteem'd. Father d'Aroüy, before he went into Britany, where he now is, was much admired for the Ma­thematical Instruments which he invented; he invented one not long since, which shew'd us the Motions of the Stars in such a method, as is wor­thy the Curiosity of the most Skilful in that Sci­ence. They sometimes make Publick Actions in this Colledge, which draw a prodigious number of People. At the Carnaval they represent some little Latin Tragedy. After Easter they expose Enigmatical Questions to be explained, for which they have certain Prizes. They have also cer­tain Theses to be maintained, to which Persons of Quality resort; but their greatest Bravery of all is, the Grand Tragedy which they represent yearly in the Month of August, on a Theater rais­ed on purpose, which takes up all the bottom of the Court. The Actors are always Pensionaries, and Sons of Persons of Quality. The finest ob­jects of this Tragedy are the Balets of the Sieur de Beauchamp's Composition, which are danced between the Acts. When all is done they make a [Page 45] distribution of Prizes to those that merit best, without any regard to the Quality of the Person; which occasions great Emulation among the Youth, and makes them use the utmost of their endea­vours to gain a Prize, which the King gives, in the View of such an Assembly.

As you go from hence, a little higher in the Street, you have

The Church of St. Estienne des Grecs, the first and oldest of Paris. St. Denis Bishop of this Town, as some think, was the Founder. It is not any way considerable, but for its Antiquity. Report says, That St. Francis of Sales, Bishop and Prince of Geneva, made his Vows of Chastity and Poverty in this Church, before the Chappel of our Lady de bonne delivrance here, in which there is a very great Devotion. Over against this is

The Convent of Jacobius, formerly called Fri­ers Preachers of the Order of St. Dominick, whose first Foundation is alledged to be in the life time of that Saint, who lived in the Year 1217. un­der the Pontificate of Honorius the Third, and in the Reign of Philip Augustus. Historians say, that St. Dominick took great pains, about the Extirpa­tion of the Heresie of the Albigenses, who caus­ed great disorders in Languedoc: and at the same time he sent two of his Religious to Paris, who were Lodged in a place called The Citizens Par­lour, in the same place where now this Convent stands. They were called Jacobins, from the Ruë Saint Jacques. Their Church, as it now is, was built by order of St. Lewis, if we may believe Belleforest, a faithful Historian. Here are many Tombs of great Lords, who for the most part were Princes of the Blood Royal of France. But in regard I did not design to search into Antiqui­ties, [Page 46] I shall not here express their Names, which may be found in Father du Breüil. I will only ob­serve, that among these famous Monuments is that of Humbert, the last Sovereign Prince of Dauphiné, whose Title was Dauphin of Vionnois; the Tomb stands before the great Altar. History says, That seeing himself Childless, he sold this Province to Philip Augustus for a small Summ of Money, and him­self embraced a Religious Life at Lyons, and en­ter'd into the Order of St. Dominick; where he liv'd in very great Esteem with all good Men, and was chosen to be Prior of this Convent, and afterwards Patriarch of Alexandria. This is his Epitaph:

Hic jacet R. Pater & Dominus amplissimus HUM­BERTUS, primo Viennae Delphinus, deinde relicto Principatu, Frater nostri Ordinis, Prior in hoc Con­venru Parisiensi, ac demum Patriarcha Alexandrinus, & perpetuns Ecclesiae Rhemensis Administrator, & praecipuus bujus Conventus Benefactor. Obiit anno Domini 1345. Maii 22.

Here lies the Reverend Father, and Most Ho­nourable Lord HUMBERT, First Dauphin of Vienna, after that leaving his Principality, he became Brother of our Order, and Prior in this Convent at Paris, and at last Patriarch of Alex­andria, perpetual Administrator of the Church of Rhemes, and chief Benefactor to this Convent. He Dyed in the Year of our Lord 1345. May 22.

This Church hath nothing but what is ordina­ry, yet is the great Altar very handsomly con­trived; [Page 47] it is adorn'd with black Marble, and the Armes of the Cardinal of St. Cecily, Brother of Cardinal Mazarin, which you see about it, speak it to be built at his Costs; and this he did in re­gard he was of this Order. Over the Door go­ing into the Sacristy, is a Picture of Valentine's, representing the Nativity of the Holy Virgin; which Piece Cardinal Mazarin gave, to be placed over the great Altar; but when he perceived it to be too little, he left it to the Church, and it hath been placed here ever since. It is one of the most Beautiful pieces in all France, and the Cu­rious esteem it highly. Felibien, in his Book which he Composed of the Lives and Works of the most Famous Painters, tells us, it is one of the best Pi­ctures that ever came out of Italy into France. On one side of the great Altar, stands the Chap­pel of our Lady of the Rosary. The Wainscot Work of which is very handsom. Here is a very great Devotion, by reason of the Indulgences, which are here to be gain'd every first Sunday of the Month. In the Cloister are several Paintings, but they are of no great Note; so also is their Li­brary, which is not very numerous, yet it hath been made use of by very Famous Doctors. They preserve here one thing of great Curiosity, and that is the Pulpit of Great St. Thomas of Aquiu, the Angel of the Schools. It is made of Wood, and inclosed in another of the same material, that it may not be injured by time. A General of this Order was at the charge of making that in which it is inclosed; and not along ago these Fathers have caused a small Room to be made, at the end of the Library, where this Pulpit is con­veniently exposed to sight. 'Tis well known that St. Thomas of Aquin formerly profest Divinity in [Page 48] this Convent, and in the great School, which we see at this day, he made his Lectures. It hath been Rebuilt at the beginning of this present Age, through the Alms which these Fathers collected in a Jubilee. Several Preachers of this House have acquired great Reputation in the World. Among others Father Chaussemer, who is esteemed one of the most Profound and Eloquent that we have at present; he Preached this Lent at Nostre-Dame, after he had perform'd the like at the Louvre. The deceased Monsieur Coëffeteau, who hath com­posed a very Curious Roman History, past here the greatest part of his Life; with many others, whose names would be too long to insert here.

Before you leave the Rüe Saint Jacques, you ought to know, that here inhabit many Book­sellers, who sell almost all of them, the Works of the Messieurs du Port-Royal, all the Works of Mon­sieur Arnault, generally esteemed by all Learned Men: Here you will find the several pieces of the French Academicians; many Foreign Books; the several pieces that concern the Gallicane Church; all Monsieur Maimbourg's Writings; here also are sold Father Bouhour's Books; those of Father Ra­pin; of the Bishop of Meaux; of the Abbot Flé­chier, Almoner to Madam the Dauphiness, who Translated the Life of Cardinal Commendon, and composed for Monseigneur the Dauphin, the History of Theodosius the Great, and four Funeral Orations. Many other Books proper for the perusal of curious Persons, are here also to be met with. In this Street also are many Gravers and Sellers of Prints, who have in their Shops great store of Maps, and Printed Pictures. Of which I shall say no more in this place. At the end of this Volume I may (perhaps) set down [Page 49] a Catalogue of such Books as are best Writ in our Language, for the use of Strangers, who of­tentimes for want of better information, buy ve­ry scurvy Books, instead of such as may be of use and advantage to them in their study of the French Tongue.

Without the Porte St. Jacques, in the Faux­bourg of that name, you may observe many fine things, and in a greater number than in any other Faux-bourg about the Town.

On the left Hand, as you enter, is the Con­vent of the Nuns of the Visitation, which makes no great shew. The Church it self is no bigger than an ordinary Hall. Yet is their Altar one of the richest that can be seen on the Feast Days, these Nuns sparing no Costs to adorn it with Candle­sticks, Lamps, Vessels, Figures, and a Thou­sand such like things, which are all of Silver, and most of them very weighty. But the place being none of the best contrived, these rich things ap­pear not so well as they might do elsewhere. Going still forward, you pass before

The Parish Church of St. James, from which all this Quarter takes its name. It hath been re­pair'd in such manner as we now see it by the late Dutchess of Longueville Sister of Monsieur the Prince, who was one of the most pious and Charitable Princesses of this Age. The Portal is of the Dorick Order, very well perform'd; and had that Virtuous Princess lived, she had doubt­less given wherewithal to finish the Work: But she dyed about four years ago in the Convent of Carmelite Nuns, to the regret of abundance of poor People, who subsisted by her Almes.

The Seminary of St. Magloire, is near the last mentioned place. This was formerly an Abby of [Page 50] St. Bennet's Order, which was first Founded in the same place, where at present stands St. Bartholo­mew's Church, near the Pallace. But those good Religious Men, being troubled with the noise and Clutter of that place, changed their habitation in the Year 1138. and came to dwell here, which was at that time a good way out of the Town, where there was already a Chapel built and de­dicated to St. George. After that in the Year 1549. The Monks of St. Bennet did altogether quit this House, and transfer'd themselves to o­ther Houses of the same Order, the Revenue of this being given to the Arch-Bishop of Paris. And in the Room of the Monks they placed here certain Penitent Nuns, but they continued not long. In fine, the Priests of the Oratory were introduced here in the beginning of this present Age, whose Institution is to instruct the Young Ecclesiasticks in the Functions of their Mini­stry.

Further in this Street are the Ʋrsuline Nuns; whose Church is but small, yet is their Altar of a very handsom design, and adorn'd with Pillars of black Marble. These Nuns teach freely young Girles not only to Read and Write, but also seve­ral sorts of Works proper for them, which is of great advantage to the publick. They were first Founded here in the Year 16 [...]7. by Made­moisel de Saint Beuve, a Lady of extraordinary Piety, and Queen Anne of Austria laid the first Stone of their Church, in the Year 1620. June 22.

The Feüillantines are on the same side of the way, they are Nuns of St. Bernard's Order, re­form'd by the blessed John de la Barriere, and were first established in Paris 1622. through the Sol­licitation [Page 51] of Queen Anne of Austria. Their Church hath been some Years ago rebuilt anew, with considerable Expence. It is very lightsom, and the Portal is not ill contriv'd: It was design­ed by the Sieur Merot. One of their Bene­factresses hath contributed largely to the Charges. Over the great Altar is a very good Copy from Raphael, of the Holy Family, the ori­ginal of which is in the King's Cabinet. The Grate of their Quire is adorn'd with Copper gilt.

Nor far from thence are the English Bene­dictines, who have also built a new Church, which is really something of the least, but in re­compence of that, it is very well adorn'd. It is set off with Pilasters, and the Altar is accom­pany'd with Pillars and Figures, which shew ve­ry handsomly; the Wainscot Work of the Stalls for the Monks, is very pretty, and the little Cha­pel of the Holy Virgin, which stands over against the Door, is very neat. The Religious who inha­bit this House are originally English, and are come for refuge into France, on the account of Reli­gion. The late Queen-Mother gave them great Alms, as did also many other persons of Piety, and some English. There is a Person of Quality inter'd with them, who hath been a Benefactor, as may be seen by his Epitaph. On the other side of the way are

The Carmelite Nuns.

THis was sometimes call'd Nostre-Dame des Champs. The Church belonging to these Nuns is one of the oldest in Paris; most Anti­quaries believe it to be one of those which St. Denis Founded. Some modern Authors write that it was formerly a Temple of the Goddess Ceres, or else of Mars; but for this opinion they have no very good Foundation: For we find nothing in the antient Historians to warrant such a Con­jecture. It is much more certain, that it apper­tain'd a long time to the Order of St. Bennet, and that it was a Priory depending on the great Abby of Marmoutier, near the City of Tours. Whose antient Title to this place is still in being; and the Bishop of Orleans, who is Abbot there, receives from hence Four or Five thousand Li­vres per annum. In the Year 1604. were placed here certain Carmelite Nuns of St. Teresa's re­form, whom the Cardinal de Berulla fetch'd him­self out of Spain, at such time when this Reform began to be so famous in Christendom, for its great austerity. This House was the first in all the Kingdom, that took the Rule of St. Teresa, and from hence it is that all the other Convents of Paris, and in the other parts of France, took their original. At present this Nunnery is very numerous, and there are in it many persons of the greatest Quality, who quitting the World, come to end their days here.

Their Church is one of the fairest, and most magnificent that can be seen, the main Body of [Page 53] the Building is, in truth, very antient, but the modern Ornaments within it make sufficient amends for that. As you go in you may observe, that it is all painted in imitation of black Mar­ble vein'd with White; and that the Balustrades or Partitions of the Chapels are of a Wainscot, extraordinary finely gilt: But the most curious things of all are the great Pictures placed under every Window, in Frames richly Carved and gilt. There are six of these Pictures on each side, each representing some principal Pas­sage of the New Testament. They are the Work of the famousest Painters of this Age. The First, on the left hand as you enter, repre­senting the Miracle of the Five Loaves, was done by Stella. The Second represents the Feast at the House of Simon the Leper, where the Mag­dalen perfum'd our Lord's Feet, and this was done by Monsieur le Brun. The Third represent­ing the triumphal entry of our Lord into Jeru­salem, is the Work of de la Hire. The Fourth is the Story of the Samaritan Woman, and is also done by Stella; the Colours and the Dra­pery of this Picture is excellent. The Fifth is Monsieur le Brun's; and the Sixth representing the Transfiguration, is de la Hire's. Those on the other side were all done by Champaign, and that able Master never made any better Pieces than these, as one may easily observe. The Al­tar of this Church stands very high, and is all of Marble, as well the body of the Work as the Pil­lars, which are of the Corinthian Order, their Ca­pitals of Brass gilt. The Tabernacle is all of Sil­ver, and represents the Ark of the Covenant; on the forepart of which there is a great Bas-relief very well Carved. On Feast Days [Page 54] this Altar is adorn'd with Vases, Candlesticks, and divers things of that sort, which make a very handsom shew without Confusion. Over against the Grate of the Quire, where the Nuns sing, is a great Picture representing the Angelick Salu­tation. It is the Work of Guido, and ought to be esteem'd as one of the best pieces that can be seen, even in Italy it self. The several Chapels correspond to the magnificence of the Church, especially that which is dedicated to the Magda­len, in which there hangs an excellent Picture of that Saint, done by Monsieur le Brun, one of the best, perhaps, that ever he made. The Saint is represented weeping under a Rock, tearing her Hair and Ornaments, and trampling them under Foot, her Eyes are all drown'd in Tears, through which her Complection but faintly ap­pears; briefly, one cannot imagine a piece of Painting more feelingly exprest and none can see it without more compassion for such a Penitent. Over against the Altar in this small Chapel is placed, in a kneeling posture, the Statue of Cardinal de Berulle, Institutor of the Priests of the Oratory, to whom these Nuns are much obliged, as hath been already said. His Statue is of white Marble, and made by Sarazin, in the Year 1657. It is raised on a Pedestal of four sides, on which are several very good Bas-reliefs, wrought by an able Sculptor named To [...]rt, the same who made the curious Pulpit at St. Eslienne, of which I have already spoken in this Second Part p.. On each side are two Pillars of black Marble, on the top of which are certain Hames of Brass gilt, so also are the Capitals, which are of the Ionick Or­der, and very well wrought. The rest of the Cha­pel is adorn'd with Pictures of Monsieur le Brun's [Page 55] Painting, representing the Life of the Magda­len. The following Inscription is on a Grave­stone of white Marble, in the middle of this Chapel, under which lyeth buryed the Abbot le Camus, at whose sole Charges this Church was adorned and beautified.

The other Chapels want but little of the same Beauty. The further part of the Church ter­minates in a great Tribune (or Gallery) the Windows of which are grated, into this Gallery [Page 56] the Religious Women come to hear the Sermon, when the Preachers preach in the Nave of the Church. In the fore part of this Gallery are placed two Statues, one of St. Peter and the other of St. Paul, and on the top, the representation of St. Michael overcoming the Devil, which is of a very curious Invention: It was the Work of Stella, before mentioned. All the Roof is very well Painted after the manner of Cartouches: Between the Cordons you ought to take notice of a Crucifix, accompanied with the Holy Vir­gin and St. John, which are wrought with so much Art, that the Figures seem to stand upon a real bottom. This is a pleasing fallacy to those that mind it. Finally, the last remarkable thing to be observed in this Church, is the Crucifix of Brass over the Balustrade, that divides the Quire from the Nave. The Curious esteem it highly; it was made by Sarazin, who had the reputation of one of the ablest Men of his time.

As you go from hence through the Court, you may observe a small House, built after the Italian manner, composed of two Pavillions, very handsom, with a Garden before the House, through which you pass as you go in. This House also was built at the Charges of the before mention'd Monsieur the Abbot le Camus

From this place you go to see the famous

VAL de GRACE.

HEre it is that all Strangers are forced to grant, that we can raise in France as fine Buildings and as regular, as those in Italy so much admired by Travellers. We may also af­firm, without vanity, that this magnificent House, if consider'd in all its parts, is one of the most beautiful Works of all this Age.

It ought to be observed that the Nuns of Val de Grace were formerly Founded near the Village of Bierre, about Three Leagues from Paris, in a very incommodious place by reason of the Ma­rish Grounds, called there le Val profond, or the deep Vale; being very Sickly in this place, they Petition'd Lewis XIII. for his permission to come and inhabit in Paris. Queen Anne of Austria, his Illustrious Wife, being acquainted with their merit, chiefly from one of their Company, named Margaret d'Arbouse, by whose means she took a particular affection to them, declar'd her self their Foundress. She caused them in the Year 1621. to be lodged in the Faux-bourg St. Jac­ques, in an old House then called the Hôtel d [...] Valois, which was pull'd down to make way for those Buildings, which have been since erected. Some Years after, that illustrious Queen, by way of thanksgiving for the happy Birth of the now King, whom God gave to France after Twenty Years expectation, caused the Foundation to be [...]aid of that glorious Edifice which we now see. Monsieur Mansard, so often already mention'd, [Page 58] who was at that time the most esteemed Architect of France, was made choice of for this Work, and the designs which he drew were admired by all Men. He carryed up the work as high as the first Floor, but then for some Reasons he was changed, and other Architects employed in his place, to wit, le Due, le Muet, and du Val, who perform'd their parts so well, that Mansard was not mist, tho' so great a Master. In disgust to be thus used he undertook to build the Chapel at Château de Fresne, seven Leagues from Paris, for Monsieur de Guenegaud, Secretary of State; where he per­formed in little that magnificent design, which he drew out at first for Val de Grace, and thereby made that Chapel one of the finest Structures in the Kingdom, as all who have seen it unani­mously agree. But though the building at Val de Grace, is admirable in its present condition, yet it hath been effected with abundance of pains, and with excessive Charges, chiefly in laying the Foundation, by reason of the Quarries which they met with in digging. The present condition of this place is as follows:

First you enter into a great Court, which lies before the principal Door; this Court is separa­ted from the Street by a Pallisade of Iron, at the extremities of which are two square Pavillions; on the right Hand and on the left it is bounded with certain Stone Works, adorn'd with rustick Pillars, which make a very handsom Shew. At the further part of this Court is the great Portal, raised upon Six steps. But that which makes it most remarkable, is, that it is after the manner of a Portico composed of Four great Corinthian Pillars, with Niches on each side, in which are placed St. Bennet, and St. Scholastica, of white [Page 59] Marble. On the Frise is this Inscription in Let­ters of Gold:

The Front of the Portal is of two Orders of Pillars, the Corinthian and the Composite, with all their proper Ornaments. If the outside appears great, the inside is still infinitly more magnificent. All the Church is paved with Marble of divers Colours. And the compartments are correspon­dent to the Cartouches of Sculpture, and to the Guillochis (or Flourishings) in the Roof, where there are several Bas-tailles of admirable Work­manship. This Roof is of Stone as white as Mar­ble, and it is throughout enriched with Orna­ments of the best sort, in which Monsieur An­guerre has surpast all. On each side of the Nave are Three Chapels, divided asunder by Two great Pilasters, which support the Cornish that runs round the Church, and supports the Arches of the Roof. The Quire is directly un­der the Dome at the further end of the Nave, from which it is parted only by a grate of Iron gilt. Four great Arches support the Dome; and the great Altar is placed under the futher­most Arch. It is of a very singular design, com­posed of Six great twisted Pillars of the Composite Order. They are of black Marble vein'd with [Page 60] white; of which sort there are hardly any others to be found in Europe; they are raised upon Pe­destals of Marble also, and they are all over en­riched with Palms and Feüillages of Brass gilt, which make a wondrous beautiful Show. One may truly say that the contrivance of these Pillars is, in some respects, more magnificent, than those of the great Altar at St. Peter's in Rome, which were designed by the Cavalier Bernin. These excel in number and in the beauty of the Workmanship. They stand in a great Circle, raised about two Foot, and make a kind of Pa­villion open on all sides, forming Six Conso [...]nes, at the feet of which are Angels holding Censing­pots. These Pillars are joined together by great [...]estons of Palms, about which little Angels hold certain Scrowles, in which are writ seve­ral Verses of the ‘Gloria in Excelsis Deo.’ ‘Glory be to God on high.’ The whole is of the best sort of gilding without any Colours Upon the Altar, which is placed in the middle of these Pillars, the Infant JESUS is represented lying in his Cradle, all of white Marble, accompanied by the Holy Virgin and St. Joseph▪ these are all of Monsieur Anguerre's Work, and reckoned among the best things that ever he did. Behind the great Altar you see a Grate in a kind of Pavillon, of Marble also. To this place the Nuns come to make their Pray­ers, when the Holy Sacrament is exposed. The inside of this place is very beautiful, but in re­gard it is difficult to be seen, I shall not here say [Page 61] any thing of that subject. Between the Arches which support the Dome, in the Corners stand the [...]our Evangelists in Sculpture, well worth your exact Observation; and a little lower are as many gilt Balconies placed over the like num­ber of little Chapels, which are contrived out of the thickness of the Work. But tho' all these things are admirable, yet these are not the chief Rarities, the Painting on the inside of the Dome will give much more pleasure to the lovers of Art; it represents the Glories of the Blessed in Heaven, who are placed in several Groupes, the Apostles, the Prophets, the Martyrs, the Vir­gins, and the Confessors, each of which are di­stinguisht and known by some particular remarks, the Kings, the Patriarchs, the Heads of Orders, the Fathers of the Church, St. Bennet and St. Sch [...]l [...]stioa; in the lower parts are placed the Altar, and the Candlestick of Seven Branches, and in a word, all that the Scripture discovers to us of Paradise. In the upper part the sight loses it self in an infinite space, which appears full of confused and faint Objects, by reason of a vast distance, and a great light that strikes out from the highest of all. All this delicate Painting is in Fresco, and the Work of M. Mig­nard, who did the Hall and Gallery at St. Cloud. In the Frise at the bottom you may read this In­scription:

On the right Hand and on the left of the great Altar, are the two Grates which take up all the void space between the side Arches. They are of an extraordinary greatness, and the like were never made of the bigness, besides they are wrought with such delicate Art, as if the Iron had been as soft and easie to form as Lead. That on the right side encloses the Nuns Quire from the Church, which is large and well Wainscot­ted▪ They have in it a small Organ which they use on Festivals, at such time as they sing their Service Musically, which they perform to the great pleasure of their hearers, they having among them some very excellent Voices. On the other side is a great Chapel▪ all hung with Mourning, in the middle of which is erected a Hearse of black Velvet upon Four or Five Steps; here are reposited the Hearts of the Queen-Mo­ther their Illustrious Benefactress, the Queen whom we have so lately lost, with others of several Prin­cesses of the Blood Royal, among the rest that of Madam the Dutchess of Orleans.

Before we leave this place we ought to observe the Cyfer, which is at the bottom of the steps of the Altar, composed only of two Letters L. and A. encompassed about with Palms, and other Feüillages of white Marble. There are here ma­ny [Page 63] other things worth observation, which would be painful to set down in writing, but the Curi­ous when they come hither will easily find 'em out. The inside of the Convent corresponds ex­actly well to the magnificence of the Church. The several Cells and the Offices are regularly disposed, and built with solidity, particularly the Apartment of the Queen-Mother, disposed in such manner as may befit a C [...]puchin Nun. The Nuns are very austere, for they observe the reformed Rule of St. Bennet. They choose their Abbess from among their own Community, whose Authority is only Triennial. Their chief Revenues arise from the Abby of St. Corneille in Compiegne, which is annext to this House.

As you go from hence you must not forget to observe the outside of the Church, and the Or­naments about the Dome, which appears of a very great height: it is cover'd with Lead, with great Bands gilt; and on the top a Balustrade of Iron, round about the little Lanthorn open on all sides; over that is the great Ball, and there­upon the Cross. All these things are set off glo­riously with Gildings, and which way soever you enter into Paris, this Dome is so big and so high, that it may be easily discover'd a great way off.

After you have seen Val de Grace, you ought next to go to

The Convent of the Capuchins, behind which there lies a very great enclosed piece of Ground, which extends a great way into the Fields, and serves in Summer for a very delightsom Walk. their Cloister is but small, according to the manner of building used by those good Friers. [Page 64] Within it on the Walls they have set up several Inscriptions in French Verse, to excite the Devo­tion of such as walk there.

In the Street over against the Capuchins going into the Rue d'Enfer, stands

The Convent of the Bernardin-Nuns, according to the Reform of Port Royal. Their Church is very neat; it was designed by the Steur le Pau­tre; tho' it be but small, yet it hath some Beau­ties which are not found in greater. The late Queen-Mother brought these Nuns from the famous Abby of Port Royal des Champs near Ver­sailles, in the Year 1625, in which place they were very numerous and of great Reputation, and placed them here; this House being then called the Hôtel de Clagni. They have in this Church a great Devotion, by reason of one of the Holy thorns of our Lords Crown, in favour of which some great Miracles have been done. Their Altar-piece representing the last Supper, was painted by Monsieur Champagne. They have also here an antique Amphora or Waterpot, which as some pretend, was one of those which were made use of at the Marriage of Cana.

There remains nothing more that is remarka­ble in this Faux-bourg, but

The Observatory ROYAL.

THE King who takes no less care to make the Arts flourish, than to extend the Limits of his Kingdom, caused this Structure to be erected in the Year 1667. for the Habitation of [Page 65] Mathematicians. It consists of a great Body of Stone-work two Stories high; the Windows of which are round at the top, and about fourteen Toises high (a Toise is Six Foot.) The forepart of the Building is made with Towers Eight An­gular of the same height, with a great Esplanade in manner of a Tarrass, with fronts about the whole Building. The Tower on the East side is open at the top, and without any Roof, that so one may see the better from the bottom. Between these two Towers are several great Rooms, which are not yet furnisht with such things as are to be there. But that which is most remarkable in this Building, is, that there is not used about it either Iron or Wood, and yet the Roof of it is extreamly solid. The Stair-case is the finest that can be imagined; it is all of Stone laid after a way extraordinary, hardy and bold from the bottom to the top; and the Iron Rail that winds the whole length of these Stairs is very well wrought. It is 156 Steps high and leads to the Tarrass. In regard this Building consists of seve­ral stories, it hath several vaulted Roofs one over the other, the uppermost of which consists of an Arch of a large extent, flat on the outside, and paved with Hint-stones, cut exactly and bound together with Cement, that the Rain may not penetrate and damnifie the Vaults be­neath. The Curious may if they please go down into the Caves or Grotto's which are extream deep, since the Stair-case that leads down con­tains One hundred threescore and eleven Steps; in the middle of which they have contrived a void hollow space in manner of a Well, which pierces through all the Rooms, and extends up to the top of the Tarrass, so that through this hole you [Page 66] may see the light to the very bottom of the Cave. It is said that this was made on purpose to see the Stars at Noon-day. But it seems it fails of effect, for no body has yet seen them, tho' it hath been often endeavour'd. This place which they call le Puits (the Well) contains 28 Toises (56 yards) from the bottom of it to the vent at the top.

In the several Apartments, especially in those belonging to M. Cassini, are several curi­ous Mathematical Instruments, as Globes, Pen­dulums, and chiefly Glasses of very great Di­mensions, with which these Learned Men ob­serve the course of the Stars. There are only Four Mathematicians who lodge in the Observa­tory, part of those who compose the Academy of Sciences, established at the King's Cabinet, as we have formerly noted; and they are M. Cassini, originally an Italian, and formerly one of the great Dukes Academy at Florence, where he had attain'd great Reputation. He takes here a great deal of pains in Astronomy, and hath made many discoveries in that Art, for which the King gives him a considerable Pension. M. de la Hire, M. Couplet who teach the Mathematicks to the Pages belong-to the great Stable; the Deceased M. the Abbot Picard was one of those, but his place is not yet supply'd, and M. Hugens, a Hollander, hath here also an Apartment, tho' he doth not com­monly abide in it. These Gentlemen meet to­gether upon certain days, and communicate the Observations which they have severally made, and sometimes they Print them also for publick satisfaction. Every Year M. Cassini publishes about Newyearstide a small Volume, called La Connoissance des temps, by which one may know [Page 67] the Course of the Planets, and other Curiosities of that nature, much more exact and regular than any thing hitherto seen on the subject. They have here a small square Chamber over the forepart of the Tarrass, in which those who speak at the oppo­site Corners may easily understand one another, and yet those in the middle not perceive it. This is occasion'd by reason the Roof is Vaulted hol­low, and the Angles are continued along the Roof from one side to the other, without any ob­struction. After you have seen the Observatory, as you go out you ought to take notice of

The Water-House, which stands near the Gate as you go out next the Ruë d'Enfer. This House was built to receive the Water that comes from the Village of Rongis in that Curious Aqueduct, which Queen Mary of Medicis caused to be built at Arcüeil, which the Curious ought to visit as one of the finest in all France. You ought to know that most of the Fountains in Paris come from this Receiver or Conduit, which makes its first discharge at Luxembourg-House, from whence afterwards the Waters divide themselves to all parts of the City.

As you return back to the Town again, through the Ruë d'Enfer, you first come to The House of the Fathers of the Oratory, which they call The Institution, and serves them as a Noviti­ate. The Church is well built, but there is no­thing here of singular Note. From hence you go to

The Convent of the Carthusians.

THis Monastery was built by the King St. Lewis, who gave to the Religious of St. Bruno's Order, the old House or Château of Vauvert, where at that time, as Historians say, Devils did inhabit, and caused there so many disorders, that by Arrest of Parliament the Town Gate which led into that Street was wall'd up. The Street which lies before the House does still retain the old name, and it is for this reason that it was first; called the Rüe d'Enfer (or Hell Street.) But since these good Fathers became possest of the place, they quickly expell'd the evil Spirits; and St. Lewis having a great esteem of the Austere and Holy Life that they led, made them a Visit with his whole Court, and confer'd upon them sufficient Lands and Demesnes for their Subsistence. Many persons did contribute to the building of their House, which takes up more Ground than any other Religious House does at present in all the Town and Suburbs of Paris. Besides that the Cells are large, and that they have each a separate Garden; they have also a great Close containing many Arpens of Land, which encompasses the whole House. The Church hath nothing in it extraordinary, except the Seats of the Religious, which were made about two Years ago, and are the finest wrought that were ever yet seen. The Wainscot is per­fectly handsome, and adorn'd with Sculpture that makes a delicate appearance: These are [Page 69] composed of small Corinthian Pilasters which support the Cornish; one of the Fathers of the House designed them and managed the Work. They now begin to place some Pictures between the Croisées. The first which hath been placed here is done by M. Audran, the second by Monsi­eur Coipel, and in time the whole Quire may be furnisht in this manner, which will considerably beautifie the Church.

The little Cloister which lies on one side of this Church, is the only thing that is rare and singu­lar belonging to these fathers. It is adorn'd with a Dorick Architecture of Pilaster fashion. Between the Arches are several Pictures repre­senting the Life of St. Bruno their Founder, and in certain Cartouches adjoyning to each Picture, the Life of that Saint in Latin Verses. The Pictures which hang at the Corners of the Cloi­ster, represent the views of several remarkable places, among others of the City of Rome, of the Grand Chartreuse near Grenoble, of Paris on the Louvre side as it shew'd before the old Tow­er was taken down, and the Port-neuve, which stood not far from the Pont-rouge; the rest are only fancies of the Painter. All the Painting of this Cloister was done by Le Sueur, who never did any thing finer than these Pieces here. Of late days they have contrived Wooden Shuts in which they shut them up, that they may not be inju­red, as certain persons who envy the Merit and Reputation of that incomparable Man, have at­tempted to do. They do not open these Pictures but upon certain Days, or when Curious Peo­ple desire to see them. It is apparent that bet­ter Paintings than these cannot be; yet had he lived we should have had from him things in­finitely [Page 70] more perfect; but his fate was like that of Raphaël, who dyed in an Age when his admirable Genius began to make him known. That which remains to be seen in this House is the Refectory, which is very lightsom. Here the Religious never Eat but upon Festivals, Sundays and Thurs­days; upon other days they take their repasts in their several Cells, which are disposed in a square place round about their Church-Yard or Cemetery. These Cells are composed of Four or Five small Rooms all on a Floor, Boarded throughout, and very simply furnisht. Some of these Fathers have by them very curious Libra­ries, the Father Vicar hath one which is much esteemed. Some of them employ themselves in­dustriously in divers Works, thereby to pass more easily their time of Solitude, which is very rigorous in regard they are never permitted to go out of the House, nor to receive any Visits but at certain hours. And it is well and judici­ously observed by one of our Historians, that the principal reason why these Fathers have preserved the purity of their first Institute better than the other Orders, is because they have always shun'd with extream care the great Commerce of the World, and the Visits of Women: Two Dangerous Rocks for the Monastick Life.

Near the Carthusians stands the little Convent of the Feüillans, in which is nothing extraordina­ry. But not far from this Convent dwells M.—who hath a very neat Garden of the design of M. le Nostre.

From hence you descend to the Porte St. Mi­chael, which was taken down two Years since, to enlarge the Passage, which before that was very strait and inconvenient. In the same place where [Page 71] the Gate stood, is built a Fountain under a great Arch in manner of a Niche, with a small Porti­co of the Dorick Order beneath; but the Or­naments are not yet quite finished. Here you come into the Ruë de la Harpe, and so you may go on to the Colledge of

The SORBONNE.

THis beautiful House requires to be treated of with a particular application, in regard it is one of the principal Ornaments of Paris, as well for the great reputation of those Learn­ed Men which come from hence, as for the beau­ty of the Architecture in its buildings. Cardi­nal de Richelieu beautified it as we see it at present. Before that it was but an old Colledge consist­ing of very mean building, yet was it however a place of mighty great Reputation. It was first Founded by Robert de Sorbonne, Almoner to St. Lewis, who furnisht him with means wherewith to perform the Work, as apears by the following Inscription in the Church, graved on a Brass plate.

[Page 72] The Cardinal de Richelieu, who took all occasions to Immortalize his Name, caused this Colledge to be Rebuilt, and spared no Costs to make it truly magnificent. For this purpose he employed the Sieur Mercier an able Architect, who after some Years time brought the work almost to the point of per­fection as we see it; however it was not quite finisht by him, for he dyed before he could give it his last Hand. That which we are first to observe is the square place before the Church Door, and hath a Passage into the Ruë de la Harpe. This place is, in truth, not large, by reason of some Houses built before it, belong­ing to the Colledge des Tresoriers, however this hinders not but that it is very handsom. On both hands it is fronted with very fair Houses. On one hand is a great Body of Lodgings stone built of Two Stories high, in Bossage Rustick; and here is the Divinity School for those Scholars who come from abroad to hear the Lectures which are made here by Six Doctors, Three in the Morning and Three in the Afternoon, who change from hour to hour. This School is great and high, and it is sometimes made use of when a Thesis is maintain'd by some Person of Qua­lity. On the Right Hand in this Court is the Chapel belonging to the Colledge of Clugni. It takes up almost one side of this Court, and makes no unhandsom Show, although it be of Go­thick building; but gives the Beholder occasion to observe with pleasure, the difference between that gross and Rustick sort of building in the Ages past, and the regular and studied manner now used in this. As you enter into this open place or Court, and cast your Eyes upon [Page 73] the Portal of the Church, you cannot desire a finer object. The proportions are so true, and the points of the view so well contrived, that the distant parts of this Edifice seem to stand over the Portal, and to be placed in the stand­ing where they are, to serve for a greater Or­nament to the Front. The Dome is none of the highest. It is accompanied like that of Val de Grace, with Four little ones, with Statues, with bands of Lead gilt, and with a Balustrade of Iron about the little Lanthorn which is on the top of all the work. All these different things do agree so well one with another, that one can­not wish to see a more beautiful piece of Ar­chitecture. The Portal of the Church consists of Two orders of Pillars, Corinthian, and Com­posite. The second Story are only Pilasters. Both above and below, between the Pillars, are Niches, in which are placed Statues of very good Workmanship; as also are those on the outside, and those within, between the Corinthian Pila­sters that support the Roof. The inside of the Church is but small, and is not altogether so light as it might have been; however, all things there are well disposed: The Pavement is of Marble: The Dome is very well painted, and so are the Four Fathers of the Church which are between the Arcades that sustain it; these are in Fresquo, and of colours very shining. The great Altar is not yet begun; but doubt­less it will be magnificent, if they follow the de­signs which are shewn: It is to be all of Mar­ble, composed of Six great Pillars of Jasper, with their Capitals and other Ornaments gilt. The lesser Altars, which are already finished, do promise, that if the great Altar be of the [Page 74] same gust, one cannot see any thing more deli­cate. The Altar of the Virgin was finish'd not long ago; it is of white Marble, with Orna­ments of Brass gilt, which shew admirably. From hence we ought to go into the inward parts of the House, in the midst of which is a square Court encompast about with Buildings, part of which are higher than the rest, which gives an air of Grandeur and Majesty to the Portico of the Church. As you see it on this side, hardly can any thing appear better: At the bot­tom of this Court it appears raised upon Fifteen steps, and consists of ten great Corinthian Pillars, distant from the building more than Six Foot: These Pillars support a Fronton in which are the Armes of Cardinal de Richelieu, with two Statues on each side. On the Freese you read this In­scription:

Under this beautiful Portico you see the Door into the Church, which is of the same disposition [Page 75] with that of the Rotundae in Rome: The Archi­tect has imitated it as near as he could. All the Apartments about this Court are inhabited by the Doctors of this House, who have a particular right to dwell here. Some of these Doctors have very pretty Libraries of their own, but these are not so easie to be seen as the great Library which is common to all the House, where all the Doctors study. It is very long and very high, and runs over the head of two great ground Rooms, in which the Sorbonnists maintain their Theses and Disputations. M. le Masle, Prior des Roches, and Secretary to Cardinal de Richelieu, gave the greatest part of the Books you see here, which are very good ones. Monsieur the Cardinal gave his also, among which are some very rare Manuscripts, distin­guisht from others by his Armes on the Covers; among the rest, there is one of Titus Livius in two great Folio Volumes, written in Parchment, it is of an old Translation into French about the Reign of Charles the Fifth, adorn'd with Mineatures at the beginning of every Chapter, and with Flourishes in the Margin, which are curiously Painted with that delicate Gold colour, the secret of which has been lost for these two last Ages, it having been formerly used as an ordina­ry Colour, and is of such an admirable brightness that it never sullies. Besides this there are ma­ny other very rare Manuscripts in one of the Presses at the end, on that side next the Chim­ney, most of them bound in red Turkey Lea­ther. In this Library are a greater number of Divinity Books than of any other sort. Besides you may may see here a great quantity of Bi­bles of different sorts, which have been Collect­ed [Page 76] together with great care. At each end there is a Chimney, over which are placed the Pi­ctures of Monsieur the Cardinal in his Ceremo­nious habit, and of Monsieur le Masle, both in their full length; over that next the door is a Bust of the Cardinal, in Brass, wrought by the Sieur Varin, which came from among the Goods of the Dutchess of Aiguillon, who after her death bequeath'd this, with other Goods, to this House, she having had the use of them during her Life, by the Will of the Cardinal de Richelieu her Un­cle. There is also another lesser Library in a private place of the House, but it contains only those Books of which there has happen'd to be two of a sort in the great Library, or such as the other Library cannot hold, in regard the number does increase daily, because most Au­thors present their Works here. The King himself hath presented to this place all the curi­ous Prints which he has caused to be graved, of which there are four or five great Volumes in Folio, neatly bound, which are the Carousel, the Tapistries, the curious Dissections which have been made at the Academy of Sciences, and some others; in such sort as this Library ought to be esteem'd as one of the best and most numerous that can be seen, tho' it be not yet quite perfected. But it is with this as with others which are in greater esteem, it being almost im­possible to render any one Library compleat, be­cause of the difficulty of recovering some scarce Books, which oftentimes make the chief beauty of a▪ Library, and which cannot be met with without mighty pains. Besides since Printing, the number of Books is so increast, and there are so many publisht in all parts of the World, that all cannot be had.

[Page 77] Over the Church Door, on that side next the Place is the following Inscription:

After you have seen the most Remarkable things in the Sorbonne, you pass forward in the Rüe de la Harpe; turning back again through the open place before the Church, you come next to

The Colledge d'Harcour, one of the best of the University, in which they keep Exercise for the lower Schools, which are full of Pensioners, and such as come from abroad. The Gate is fair and of a very regular design, it is Vault fashion, adorn'd with Bossages, with a great Cornish, and an Attique over that. If they had contrived a Court before it, it would have appear'd with more advantage.

As you descend lower you pass by the Col­ledges of Justice, of Baïeux, of Narbonne, and that of Séez, in which the Schools have been laid down for some years past.

Lower is the Church of St. Cosmus, in which there is nothing remarkable unless it be the Epitaph of Monsieur Dupuy, so well known to all Men of Learning. The House of St. Cosmue stands near this Church, in which House the Chirurgions do ordinarily meet to make their [Page 78] Dissections in relation to the Anatomy of humane Bodies, upon which sometimes they make Learn­ed Lectures.

Over against the Rüe de Sorbonne, in the Rüe de Mathurins, stands the Hôtel de Cluni, belong­ing to the Abbot of that name. This Hôtel was formerly call'd the Palais des Termes, because of some old Ruines here remaining of the Thermae or Baths, as some thought, of the Emperor Julian the Apostate. And you ought not to neglect going for this purpose to a Neighbouring House in the Rüe de la Harpe, at the sign of the Iron-Cross, where the Messenger of Chartres lodges; you will see there several old Arches, which ar­gue great Antiquity, and within them a kind of Hall whose Roof is very high, and contrived without Cordons; this is very likely to have been used for some profane Temple. The three Niches in the South Wall sorve to support this Conjecture, in regard they might have been so contrived for Statues, but we cannot determin any thing, and the silence of Historians in this matter leaves People at Liberty to make what Conjectures they please. The other parts are very well built, and assure us it was hereto­fore some great House. The Roof is so strong that they have laid upon it so much Earth as to make a little Garden, in which are Flowers and small Trees growing; and those who dwell in the Hôtel de Cluni, come and walk here as on a Tarrass made on purpose.

This is all that is to be seen in this Street. Further on, and at the end of the Rüe de la vielle Bouclerie, which determines at the little open place before the Pont St. Michael, near to a House which almost makes the very Corner of the [Page 79] Street, you may observe a great stone, which serves for a Boundary, upon which is cut after an ugly fashion the Figure of a Man; but as ill as it is one may easily distinguish the Head. Historians tell us, That this is the representa­tion of one call'd John le Clerc, a Locksmith by trade, and Porter of the Gate de Bussi; who in the time of those Troubles which happen'd in the Reign of Charles the Sixth, after the Pari­sians had expel'd the Burgundians out of this City, where they had committed a thousand Disor­ders, had the Treachery to open to them that Gate in the night time, which put the Burgesses into an Alarm. After all these troubles were over, the Parisians intending a revenge upon the Author of them, and not able to apprehend his person, he being fled, they caused his Esfigies to be made in stone, and by Sentence of the Provost of Paris, all the Inhabitants were order­ed to cast something in his Face, in detestation of his Treason, and this was accordingly executed. Since that time this Statue has been removed to this place to keep off the Wheels of Coaches and Carts, from injuring the House where it stands. Turning on the left Hand you enter into

The Street of St. Andrew des Arcs. The Parish Church which gives name to this Street is consi­derable for several things, which the Curious will meet with in it. It was formerly but a small Chapel, and stood in the middle of a Field, planted with Vines or Fruit-Trees, belonging to the Monks of St. Germain des Prez. But all these things have been alter'd a long time. Some think that this Church is called St. Andrew des Arcs, by reason of some old Arches that were [Page 80] hereabouts. The building it self hath nothing singular, but you ought not to neglect to go into this Church to see the Tombs of several Fa­mous persons; such were Messieurs de Thou, whose Monuments are in the Chapel of St. Christo­pher, which they built from the Ground. The name of these great Men hath attain'd so great veneration among the Learned, that most of them make no difficulty to say, That France ne­ver produced more Illustrious Persons. And the History which was writ by one of them, is look'd upon as the very Model and best thing of the kind in these last Ages. It is writ in Latin, which has occasion'd Strangers not only to read it, but to have so great an esteem for it, that they apply themselves to this Historian more than any. In this Chapel you may see a Bust of Monsieur de Thou in Marble, with his Epitaph, which recites at large the great Imployments which he enjoy'd.

You may also read in the same Chapel the Epitaph of his Eldest Son, and of several other [Page 82] persons of this Family who are here interr'd.

In St. Anthony's Chapel, near this, are the Tombs of several Ancestors of the Chancellor Seguier, to whom France owes a great part of her Renown in Learning. These Illustrious Fa­thers of a Son no way degenerating, were of the same name with him, Peter Seguier, and did execute in their times the principal Charges in Parliament, as may be seen by the Inscriptions in this Chapel.

On the same Church you may read the Epi­taph of the Princess of Conti, who deceased in the Year 1668. and whose Piety is still Reve­rend in the Eyes of the whole World. This is in the Quire on one side of the high Altar. Up­on the Monument is placed a handsom Figure of White Marble representing Hope Afflicted: it was wrought by M. Girardon. Felow the Fi­gure is this Inscription:

In all this Quarter there is nothing considera­ble but only the Hôtel de Thou, where formerly lived the Famous persons of that Name, who also built it. The Famous Library, of which we formerly made mention, and which Monsieur de Menars purchased some Years ago, did for a long time remain in this House.

The Hôtel de Megrigni is not far off; this is also in the Rüe des Poitevins. This last is built with much regularity; and though the Apartments are not very spacious, yet are they convenient.

In the Rüe Haute-Feüille, at the further end next the Cordeliers, stands the Colledge of the Premonstrantes. In this Colledge the Religious of that Order study in the way, to attain their degrees in the University. The Church hath been considerably repair'd of late Years by the care of Monsieur Colbert, Abbot, and General of this Order, who hath caused it to be adorn'd within, throughout, with a handsom Wainscot.

The Convent of Cordeliers.

THis Monastery was built about the Year 1217. in the Pontificate of Pope Honorius the III. while St. Francis was yet living at Assisium in Italy. Some of the Religious Men of the new Order, which that great Saint did institute, came into France; the first who arrived at Paris were Lodged in the Houses of certain Burgesses; but afterwards at the Solicitation of the fore­mentioned Pope, who writ to William then Bi­shop of this City in their behalf, they were taken notice of; and in the Year 1230. Eudo, Abbot of St Germain des Prez, gave them the place where they now inhabit at this day. The Kings of France did after this become great Benefactors to them, St. Lewis gave more than all; he cau­sed their Church to be built, not as we see it at present, but as it was before the Fire which hap­pened here in the Year 1580. and reduced all into Ashes, and part also of the Convent, ruin­ing many Marble Tombs of several Princes and Princesses of the Blood-Royal, which then stood in the Quire, but can hardly now be remem­ber'd. However according to the report of Giles Corozet, these were the Principal; namely, that of Mary Queen of France, Wife of Philip the hardy, Son of St. Lewis; of Jane Queen of France and Navarre, Wife of Philip the Fair, and Foundress of the Colledge of Navarre, as we have already said; the Heart of Philip the Long, and others whom it would be to no pur­pose to mention. The Body of the Cordeliers is [Page 86] one of the most numerous of all Paris. There are always here resident a great number of Students, who come hither from divers parts of the King­dom in order to take their Degrees of Doctor in Divinity, which makes them considerable among themselves. We have seen very great Men come from this House; among others Ni­cholas de Lira, esteemed the most knowing of his Age in the Tongues, but more especially in Divinity; and John Scot, surnamed Doctor Subtilis, who through his profound Science hath raised a Singular Tenent taught and read in their Schools, which notwithstanding is founded on the Principles of Aristotle. The only Curiosity to be observed in the Convent of these Fathers, is their new Cloister which contains near a hundred Chambers all very neat and very light­some, it is Square, and in the middle is a small Garden adorn'd with a Parterre and a Foun­tain. The Four Coridors or Walks, which com­pose this Cloister, are vaulted and adorn'd with the Armes of those pious Persons, who did con­tribute to the Charges of the Building, which were not small. The Refectory, the Chapter-House and the Library are worth seeing; as for the Church it hath nothing Curious. There are in it two famous Brotherhoods, one of the Pilgrims of Jerusalem, and the other of the third Order of St. Francis, who have here their several Chapels. As you go forth you ought to ob­serve the Statue of St. Lewis, over the Door, which Antiquaries think to be one of the likest to that great King that we have.

This Quarter hath been of late time much improved and beautified: they have made two new Streets that go into the Fossez of the Hôtel [Page 87] de Conde. In that next the Convent of the Cor­deli [...]rs is contrived a little place (or open Court) before the Church door, which is not inconvenient: this Street is called Ruë de l'Ob­servance, and the other Ruë de Tourain, because of the adjoyning Hôtel de Tours.

Near this place did formerly stand the Porte Saint Germain, which some years ago was pulled down. In the place of which is erected a Foun­tain, with this Inscription:

THE FAUX-BOURG SAINT GERMAIN.

SInce the taking down of the four Gates which divided this Faux-bourg from the rest of Pa­ris, it hath been call'd ‘The Quarter of St. Germain's;’

And doubtless this is the fairest and largest of all the other Quarters, on the account of [Page 88] its extent, the number of its fair Houses, and the quantity of its Inhabitants: on those accounts this one Faux-bourg may be compa­red with some great Towns in Europe, which are much talk'd of, according to the Opinion of Strangers themselves; to whom the dwellings here appear so pleasing, that they prefer this part of the Town to all the rest of Paris: and they have reason for so doing, since all things a­bound here, and the Air is very pure, the Houses being divided from one another by se­veral Gardens. Besides other advantages, all sorts of Exercises are taught here; and perhaps there is not in the whole World any one Town in which one may reckon no less than Six Acade­mies, as you may in this Quarter; filled, for the most part, with all the illustrious Youth of France and Germany; who come hither to learn all things that can make a Gentleman accom­plished and capable of gaining Reputation in the World. Sometimes in one Winter there has been reckoned here Twelve Foreign Princes, and more than Three hundred Earls and Ba­rons, not counting a much greater number of ordinary Gentlemen, whom the reputation of France draws hither with a mighty desire to learn our Language, and those Exercises which are no where taught in their parts with equal perfection. The Six Academics bearing the names of the Six principal Riding-Masters who Teach at them, are,

• Monsieur Coulon, near Saint Sulpice.
• M. Bernardi, near the Hôtel de Cond [...].
• M. de Long-prect, at the end of the Ru [...] St. Mar­gurriie.
• [Page 89] M. de Rocfort, in the Ruë de l'Ʋniversity.
• M. de Vandeüil, in the Rüe de Seine.
• M.—On the Fossez de Monsieur le Prince.

This Quarter takes its Name from the Abby Royal of St. Germain des Prez in the midst of it, which is one of the Ancientest and Richest of the Kingdom. Of which we must speak in a parti­cular manner.

The Abby of St. Germain des Prez.

KIng Childebert, Son of the Great Clouis was the Founder. Monsieur de Mezeray re­ports the particulars of the Foundation, and tells us, That that King being in Spain in the year 543. in a War against the Visigoths, he laid Siege to the Town of Sarragossa in which they were refu­ged: the Inhabitants finding themselves severe­ly prest by the French, and thinking in imitation of the ancient Romans, to move their Enemies by some surprizing Action, they concluded to make a Procession about their Walls, in which they carried the Coat and other Reliques of St. Vin­cent. At this sight Childebert was so effective­ly concern'd, that he yeilded so far, that he was contented to depart with certain Presents which the Bishop made him, among other things that Coat, and those Reliques of St. Vincent, which he brought with him to Paris, and to the honour of them built the Church, of which we are now about to speak.

This Abby hath had several Names; it was sometime called St. Croix, because of a piece of [Page 90] that Holy Wood placed here among the other Reliques which he brought with him: at present it bears the name of St. Germain, who was Abbot here, and Bishop of Paris, and is here interr'd. On his Festival day, which is the 28th of May, they expose to publick view his Shrine, which is of Silver gilt, adorn'd with a great quantity of Precious Stones: It is of a Gothick kind of Work, but as curious and handsome as one can see. All that remains of Childebert's Building is the principal Gate at the end of the Church, and the great Steeple over it, which appear ve­ry ancient. The Statues of the Kings and Queens which are on the sides of this Gate, are of such a design as discovers that in that Age the Gust of good Sculpture was not known; for we can hardly distinguish whether the Statues re­present Men or Women. The Tomb of the aforementioned King is in the middle of the Quire, raised about two foot and an half, with some Inscriptions added to it when they removed it hither from St. Germain's Chapel, where it for­merly was behind the Quire. This translation hapned about thirty or forty years ago, when the Church was Repair'd and Beautified as it now is. At the same time they made over it a Vault of Stone instead of one of Wainscot as was be­fore, and adorned the Pillars that supported it with Corinthian Capitals. This Church is not lookt upon at present, as any Curiosity, yet is the Disposition of its parts well enough. The Great Altar is in the middle of the Croisée; and so con­trived, that one may go round it: In the fore­part of this Altar is a Table of Silver gilt, which is a great Ornament, and is shewed only on Festival Days. It is adorn'd with the Figures [Page 91] of the Apostles, and a Crucifix in the middle, of an ancient sort of Work, not unhandsom. This was the Gift of William, Abbot of this House▪ whose Body was found intire not long ago, tho' he had been buried several Ages. The Quire where the Religious sing is behind, in which their Stalls or Seats are of a very handsom Workmanship. At the Feet of Childebert's Tomb you may read the following Epitaph of Monsieur the Duke of Verneüil, natural Son of Henry the Fourth, who before he marryed with the Dutchess of Sally, was Bishop of Metz and Abbot of St Germains. The Epitaph was made by the Learned Dom. Jean Mabillon.

[Page 92] Some time since, here hath also been interred near this Monument, Monsieur the Comte de Vexin, naturalized Son of France, over whose Bo­dy is this other Inscription.

On each side of the great Altar are three Tombs, which belong to certain Kings of the first Race, namely that of Chilperic, with this Inscription on the edges in ancient Letters:

[Page 94] That of Queen Fredegonde, which is composed of a kind of Mosaick, of pieces laid in with Veins of Brass couched in the Stone. This Queen is re­presented holding in her hand a Scepter with a double Flower de Lis at the end of it, which makes one believe that in those ancient times the Flowers de Lis were in use; the Crown on her Head may further authorise this Opinion. She deceased at Paris in the year 601. Clotaire se­cond Son of Childeric the Second, and of his Wife Fredegonde, with his Wife Bertrude are also here interr'd: so likewise are Childeric the Second, and his Wife. This King was Son of Clouis the Second, who was murder'd in hunting in the Woods of Bondis, by a Gentleman of Liege called Bodile, whom he had caus'd dishonourably to be whipt, not respecting his quality.

Before the Normans and Danes ruin'd this Church, here were many other Monuments of famous persons whose memory now is loft. The Kings of the First Race did affect to be buryed here, in like manner as those of the second and third Races made choice▪ of St. Denis for the same purpose. They have lately built here two very handsom Chapels of the same Symmetry, in the two Wings of the Church: they are adorn'd with Composite Pillars of Marble vein'd, with Pedestals of the same, so also the Frise. That on the right hand is dedicated to St. Margaret, whose Girdle these Fathers keep here; and Women with Child, who have a very great de­votion to this Chapel, are usually girded with it. The Tomb belonging to some of the fami­ly of Castelan is over against this Chapel, and is of the design of M. Girardon.

The other Chapel is dedicated to St. Casimir, [Page 95] King of Poland, Patron of King Casimir, who dyed here in France, Abbot of this Abby, and whose heart is under the Monument, which stands on one side of this Chapel. This King is represented kneeling, in white Marble, apparel­led in his Royal Robes, and offering his Crown and Scepter to God, on a Tomb of black Marble, supported with a great Pedestal; in the fore part of which is placed a Bas-relief in Brass, re­presenting a victory by him gain'd over the Turks. This Monument is one of the finest that can be seen, and one can hardly meet with the like. A Lay Brother of this House named Brother Jean Thibaut, who passes for one of the most able men that are in these Works, did erect it. On each side are represented Captive Turks in Chains, sitting on heaps of Arms, in manner of Trophies. The Epitaph was written by Fa­ther Delfau, one of the Monks of this Abby, and is as follows:

In one of the Chapels behind the Ouire, you may further observe two Tombs of Marble be­longing to two of the House of Duglas, one of the principal Families in Scotland.

Having seen these things, there remains no­thing more of singular note in the Church. On Festival Days the divine Office is here Celebra­ted with great Pomp and Majesty, and there is scarce any Company of Regulars who per­form better. The Order of St. Benet hath been in the Possession of this House, ever since it was first Founded by King Childebert. And the Church, according to the opinion of some Hi­storians, stands in the same place where was formerly a Temple dedicated to the Goddess Isis, whose Statue remain'd here till the last Age; at which time an old Wom [...]n being seen saying her Prayers before it, it was by order of the Superiours removed out of the Church, and broken to pieces.

In the inward parts of this Convent the Re­fectory is worth seeing, which is great, and one of the fairest of the Kingdom. It hath lights on both sides: The Glass of which is very hand­some, tho' old. At the end of this Room is a Stair-case that leads up to the great Dortor: which Stair-case is a hardy piece of Building. And you must not neglect to visit the Chapel of our Lady; behind which is something of the same design with the Holy Chapel at the Palais. [Page 102] Report says, That both were built by the same Architect, who lies buryed here.

But without tarrying long in viewing thes [...] things, you ought to go to the Library, which takes up all the upper Room of that Arm of the Cloister next the Church. It is, in truth, none of the fullest, but in recompence of that, all the Books are the choicest and of the best Editions that can be met with. In the last Age, when there was not such plenty of Libraries as at present, this here, was esteemed the principal Library of Paris. And at this day, if it doth not continue all out of the same reputation for Printed Books, yet for Manuscripts none will dispute the precedency, of which we can no where meet with so great a Quantity nor such Choice ones, unless it be in the King's Library. These Ma­nuscripts are kept at the further end, in a little Chamber by themselves; which Room is full of them from the top to the bottom. Here are some of all Subjects, but chiefly of Religion; by means of which great Lights, several faults of Printers and ill Copiers have been discover­ed and amended. In a little Press in the great Library, they preserve several Volumes more choice and rare than the rest; amongst which is one called The Psalter of St. Germain; it be­ing supposed to have been used by that Saint, who lived about the Year 560. in the Reign of Childebert, King of France, and Justinian, Em­peror in the East. Formerly this Book was kept in the Sacristy, among the Reliques; but in regard it was so often desired to be seen by curious persons, it was removed hither: It is written in Letters of Gold and Silver, upon a Purple coloured Velom; and contains all the [Page 103] Psalms of David. There is also in the same place a very ancient Missal, which according to all appearance, is more than 900. Years old: Certain Tablets of the Antients, made of small Boards of Cedar, with a kind of Wax or Varnish finely spread over them, upon which they writ with their Stile (or Steel Bodkin); and several other singularities of such sort, which deserve to be considered; above all, one great Volume, full of Attestations of the Belief of several Greek Bishops, touching Transubstantiation: Which Attestations the Learned M. Arnauld, with much pains, procured from Constantinople, by the means of Monsieur de Nointel, Ambassador from France to the Port, for Authorities against those of the pretended Reformed Religion, who maintained that the Greek Church was of their Opinion.

Having said thus much of the Library, the Reader will not be displeas'd if I give some ac­count of those Excellent Works, which the Learned Monks of this House have lately pub­lisht; of which the most useful and most consi­derable is St. Augustin's Works, which they have interpreted and corrected according to the most antient and authentique Manuscripts in all the Libraries in Europe, of which they have had an account. We have already received five great Volumes, to which the publick have given an universal applause, and they are continually employ'd about publishing the rest with the same Purity. One may justly say, That there has not been any thing undertaken in this Age, of greater importance and advantage to Reli­gion; in regard all the Disputes that of late Years have happen'd among Divines on the sub­ject [Page 104] of Grace, have risen from the different interpretation of that Father. The Church is obl ged to these Learned Monks, who deserve no less Glory for their Pains, than they have had Trouble in the undertaking, before they could bring the Work to this Condition. Father Dom Luc d'Achery, a Monk of this House, hath pub­lisht the Spicilegium, and hath continued it to the Thirteenth Volume in Quarto, in which he hath collected together several antient Pieces, hitherto hid in the Libraries of his Order, and which had been lost in oblivion, without his care in thus shewing them to the light; to these Vo­lumes he hath added learned Prefaces, which are a great help to the Curious.

But after the incomparable Book, which Fa­ther Dom Jean Mabillon has publisht two Years ago, nothing further can be wisht for; it is Entituled, De Re Diplomatica, in Folio, with a great number of Figures of antient Charters, which this Learned Author has deci [...]er'd after the happiest way that can be; and thereupon he hath made most learned Remarques, to teach us how to know if they be Counterfeits, which will appear an easie thing to him who has read this Book. Those who have perused it can never sufficiently admire the Pains and Patience of the Author, in making such Learned Discoveries as are in it; and there is hardly any Work in which there appears more solid Judgment than in this; which is the cause that of the small number of Authors which we can reckon among the Learned, he is one of those who is most esteem'd and hath the greatest Reputation. We have also from his hand several Volumes of Analects (or Fragments) in Octavo, which he continues daily, with much care.

[Page 105] There are also in this Society, many other Learned Men who are continually employed upon divers subjects, from whose hands we shall have in a little time the Works of St. Ambrose. One may say further, to their Commendation, that there is not any Religious House where Idleness is more strictly avoided than in this.

We must know, that this Abby hath been in former times often Ruin'd, at the Incursions of Foreigners, it then standing out of the Town. The Normans and the Danes have Pillaged and Burnt it three or four times, and it hath stood out some Sieges like a Fortified Town. It was at that time enclosed about with deep Ditches and strong Walls, which from one space to ano­ther were defended with round Towers, most of which, of later time, have been pulled down to build the Houses round about it; and there remain but two which are at the Gate, on that side next the Rile St. Benoist.

In regard it is difficult to observe the course of the Streets in St. Germains Quarter, as we have done in other parts of the Town; because things are not here in a Row as elsewhere: We shall therefore speak of the observable places severally, endeavouring, however, as near as we can, to describe them to the Curious in the [...] course, and thereby to spare their pains as [...] as may be.

The Palace of ORLEANS,

OTherwise call'd The Palace of Luxembourg, because it stands in the same place where formerly stood a Hôtel of that name.

Of all the Houses in Paris, and even in the whole Kingdom; there is none more regular, better design'd for Architecture, or more mag­nificent than this Palace. Mary de Medicis, Wi­dow of Henry IV. caused it to be built, and for that purpose made use of the ablest Artist of her time, named Jacques de Brosse, the same per­son who designed the Portal of St. Gervais, of which I have already spoken. That great Queen spared no Costs to leave Posterity a Mo­nument of her magnificence. All Foreign Tra­vellers do agree, that in all Italy, there is no­thing to be seen, where Art hath been observed with more exactness, and where more Grandeur and Majesty appears, than in this building. It is composed of a great Square Court, at the fur­ther end of which is the main Body of the Build­ing, accompanied at the ends with four Pavilli­ons, and in the middle the Avant-corps, which makes a fifth, set off with Pillars. On each side of the foresaid Court are two long Galleries a little lower than the rest of the Building, each supported with 9 Arches, under which one may walk dry round about the Court. The Front of all this Palace is after the manner of an open Gallery, with a kind of Dome in the middle supported with Pillars, under which is the great [Page 107] Door butting upon the Ruë de Tournon; at the upper part of which Street this Palace is situa­ted, which adds much to the beauty of its Ave­nu [...]. At each end of the Galleries, and also of the two Tarrasses, which run along the fore-part of the Court, are two other great Pavillions, which stand in the same Line with the Face of the Build­ing. The Architecture of this Palace consists of Pilasters, except about the great Portal, and on the Garden side before a little Dome, which serves for a Chapel, where are some Pillars which stand off from the Work. The Orders observed in this Work are the Tus­can, and the Dorick, with an Attique above; and on the Garden side over the Tuscan and Dorick, is an Ionick, which makes a third Or­der compleat, with Balustrades round about the top; as also Frontons and Faces, on which are great Statues in cumbent postures, supporting Crowns. This excellent Architecture is still more beautiful, by reason of the Bossage that runs all over the Work, no other Ornaments being necessary. All that you see here is ac­cording to the plain and true Rules of Art, which is the cause that all those who are any thing knowing in Architecture, take more delight in considering this Palace, and observe more beau­ties in it, than those who regard only the things without knowing the true value. This Palace is at present inhabited by two illustrious Princesses, Daughters of the late Duke of Orleans, only Brother of Lewis the XIII. On the left hand as you come in are the Apartments of Mademoisell d'Orleans, and on the right those of Madam the Dutchess of Guise, her Sister. In the first men­tioned are several excellent Plasons, and very [Page 108] rich Furniture; in the last among other things, you ought to see the Gallery painted by the Famous Rubens of Antwerp, who was invited from Flanders on purpose to paint it. These Paint­ings are great Pictures on the Pannels between the Divisions, in which are represented the prin­cipal actions of Henry the IV his Life, more espe­cially those in which Mary of Medicis had any concern. No Man can desire to see any thing more exactly designed or better perform'd: but that which is most to be admired is the excellent Colouring which this famous Master used in his Works, in which thing he surpast all others. Often do the Young Painters come and study in this Gallery, and in regard it is all throughout of his manner, they may easily here learn the Ideas of Excellent Peinture. The Garden was formerly very beautiful, and full of little Groves and co­ver'd Walks; but several hard Winters having killed many of the Trees, it hath been thought necessary to cut up the rest to make room for others, which they have already begun to plant; at the end of the great Walk, before the Parterre, they designed to make a Fountain; so much of it as is already made, is of a very good kind of Architecture. It is a kind of Niche, adorn'd in the fore-part with four great Tuscan Pillars, charg'd with Congelations, on which are Sea-Gods holding Vases, with a great Cartouche, in which are the Armes of France, and those of Me­dicis impaled.

There is nothing more, very remarkable, un­less it be the Balustrade of white Marble in the forepart of the Tarrasses, which inclose the Parterre; but it is not yet finisht. From hence you ought to go and visit

The Hotel de CONDE'.

HEre lives Monsieur the Prince, first Prince of the Blood, with all his Illustrious Fami­ly. The building of this House is not extraor­dinary. It was formerly the Hôtel de Reiz, and being built at divers times by snatches, as conveniency would allow, the Symmetry was not over carefully observed; but as to the Furniture it is difficult to see any elsewhere more magnificent or more numerous. There are Pictures done by all the excellent Masters, extraordinary Tapistries, which did formerly belong to the illustrious House of Montmorency, and Jewels fairer than in any House of Europe. Here is also a Library very numerous, in which you may meet with some very curious Books and Writings extream rare. But that which you ought most to endeavour to see is the Gar­den, which in a space of Ground small enough, shews all the beauties and singularities which Art and Nature joyned together can produce. There are here certain Rooms or Arbours, made by Hollanders, with abundance of Industry: At the end of each walk stands a small Triumphal Arch of the same work. In Summer this Gar­den is full of Oranges and Jasmins, which makes the Walk here in the Evening most de­licious.

In the Ruë Vaugirad, which [...]uns along be­fore Luxembourg House, stands the Little Hôtel de Bourbon, otherwise called the Little Luxem­bourg, [Page 110] which Cardinal de Richelieu caused to be beautified for his Niece the Dutchess of Ai­guillon, with great Expence, as one may easily perceive by the Excellent Plafons, and more e­specially that in the great Hall, which cost a great price: Here was in those days very mag­nificent Furniture, and all sorts of Curiosities extreamly rare; but they have been since di­spersed into several hands upon the Death of that Dutchess.

Hard by, and on the same side of the way, are the Nuns du Calvaire, of Saint Benet's Order▪ here Founded in the Year 1020. by Queen Mary of Medicis. Their Church and Convent hath nothing of extraordinary, no more than

The Convent of the Nuns du Precieux Sang, which stands in the same Street. A little high­er is

The Convent of the Carmes Dechaussez, or discalced Carmelite Friers.

THis Monastery was Founded about the beginning of the last Age, by the Libe­ralities of certain Burgesses of Paris; who be­stowed a small House, Situated in this place, on the Carmelite Friers, who came from Spain, and brought into France the Reform which St. Teresa had made in the Order of Mount Car­mel. In the Year 1613 they began the Foun­dation; and Mary de Medicis laid the first Stone of their Church, as we may perceive by [Page 111] this Inscription, which was set over the place:

Chancellor Seguier declared himself their Pro­tector, and became a great Benefactor; among other things he gave them wherewithal to build their great Altar; which is of a very handsome design, adorned with Corinthian Pillars of black Marble, and several Figures representing the principal Saints of this Order. All the Church is of the Tuscan order of building; yet, in truth, it is none of the most regular. In the middle there is a Dome, painted in the top by a Chanon of the Church of Leige, named Bertolet, who was no bad Painter, as one may well judge by this Work; which represents the As­sumption of Elias, in a Chariot of Fire, and his Mantle falling on his Disciple Elisha, who receives it with open Arms.

There are in this Church two Chapels that deserve a particular consideration. The first of which is on the left hand, under the Dome, and Dedicated to the Holy Virgin; in which there is a Statue of white Marble, the finest that can be seen: It was made at Rome, by a Disciple of the Famous Cavalier Bernin, and cost a great expence to bring it from thence. It is [Page 112] not easie ever to meet with a better figure than this. It represents the Holy Virgin sitting and holding her Infant on her Knee, who smiles and extends his little Arms to embrace her. All that one can wish to see in a compleat and finisht Statue, is to be found in this; and all Men ought to consider it as the best Piece in the Kingdom. The Niche in which it stands over the Altar is of the Design of Cavalier Bernin, it is adorn'd with four Corinthian Pillars of a vein'd Marble. The other Chapel is over against this, and dedicated to St. Teresa, as appears by the Picture in the middle. This Chapel is adorn'd with Marble Pillars, of a composite Order, but very singular, with Festons on the Freese; but this is the Architects own fancy, and there are but few examples of such Work. How­ever the whole is very handsom and pleasing to the view. The Balustrades of these two Al­tars, and that also of the great Altar which stands between 'em, are of a choice sort of Marble. The rest of the Church hath nothing at all extraordinary, unless it be the white painting, with which it is all over painted, which has a Gloss, and shines like Marble. It is said that these Fathers have a Secret to make it thus, and that they are not willing to discover the mystery to any.

In the inner part of the House there is no­thing remarkable but the Library, which tho' it be but little, and the number of Books very small, yet it ought to be seen if it were only for the delicate prospect which it hath over the Neigh­bouring Fields. These Fathers have the hand­somest Gardens and the best kept in all Paris, which is not to their small advantage, for in re­gard [Page 113] they eat no Flesh, they have from their own Gardens sufficient of Roots and Pulse, and the like, whereon to subsist without buying.

In a Street at the end of this, which is call'd the Ruë du Regard, is a small House lately built, whose prospects are all upon the Neighbour­ing Gardens, and is extream neat and hand­som.

The Fortress where the Academists of M. Ber­nardy exercise is not [...]ar off. It stands near the Walls of the Palais d'Orleans, inclosed in a little piece of Ground, and serves for this use only. Here they make their attaques as regular, as if at the taking of a place of the greatest impor­tance.

In the Ruë Cassette near the Carmes of which I have been speaking, is, The Monastery of the Nuns of the Holy Sacrament, who owe their Foundation to the late Dutchess of Orleans, Second Wife of Monsieur Gaston of France, Duke of Orleans, [...]on of Henry the IV. and Brother of Lewis the XIII. This Illustrious Princess who was of a most exemplary Piety; was their great Benefactress, and gave them wherewithal to build their Church▪ and their great Altar▪ which last is of a very handsom Wainscot work, Marble painted and the Ornaments gilt, all which shows very handsomly, but this is all that is here to be seen▪ [...]very Thursday they sing here a Salutation of the Holy [...]acrament, at which a great number of Devout Persons assist, and offer up their P [...]ayers.

In the Street call'd Ruë du Pot de fer, which al­so butts against the Ruë Vaugirard, is

The Noviciat of the Jesuites.

THE Church of these Fathers is but small, but in recompence of that, it is one of the handsomest and best designed for Architecture in Paris. It is said that one of the Fathers of this Society named Father Marlange, drew the design, and having well observed the faults of that in the Ruë St. Ant [...]onie, of Father de Rant's designing, he alter'd many things. This Fa­ther being consulted with about the work of this Church, would not meddle till the General had given him permission to do what he thought proper, without being obliged to observe the orders of any one whatsoever of the Society. After this he undertook the building, which is not so big as the other, but it infinitely sur­passes it in Regularity. The Portal is of Pila­sters of the Dorick Order, and over them the Ionick Order. The inside is also of Dorick Pi­lasters supporting a Cornish, between the Trig­lifes, of which are several Ornaments repre­senting the Instruments of our Lord's Passion. The great Altar is but very plain of Jovners Work, adorn'd with two Corinthian Pillars. But that which sets off this Altar infinitely be­yond the fairest of the Kingdom, is the great Picture which you see there of the famous Poussin, one of the best which that able Master ever did. All the Curious esteem this piece extreamly, and look upon it as the best in France for ex­actness of design: Notwithstanding the objection [Page 115] of some Criticks, who say the Ear of St. Francis Xavier, who is here represented on his Knees, working a Miracle, is bigger than it ought to be.

After you have seen the Church, you ought to ask to see the Chapel of the Congregation, which lies on the left Hand of the Door, as you come in. It is adorn'd with a gilt Wainscot, and Pictures from space to space; and in the Ceeling a Plafon well Painted. On the Festivals the Altar is adorned with a rich Furniture of Silver, which the Members of this Society have given.

The whole House is very Commodious, tho' it be of no great extent, by reason it is all enclosed by four Streets on every side. The following Inscription is cut on the first Stone of the Church, which was laid by the late Duke of Verneüil.

Posterity ought to know that Monsieur Des­noïers, Secretary of State built this Church at his own Expence.

The next thing of Note is The Church of S. Sulpice, the only Parish Church in all the Quarter of [...]t. Germains, and upon this account it is the greatest of Paris. This was former­ly but a small piece of building as is easily to be observed▪ by the remaining part of the Nave, which as yet is not quite pull'd down, which was so small that it could not contain the tenth part of the Parishioners. On this account [Page 117] about 25. or 30. Years ago, they begun the new Edifice which we see at present, an under­taking so large, and the expence so great, that the Quire is hardly yet finished, with all the Liberalities the Parishioners can raise. So much as is done is the whole Quire, which is of a no­ble design. The inside is supported with high Arches, and between Arch and Arch Corinthian Pilasters, over which a Cornish that supports the Vault, which is perfectly well made and very solid, tho' very high. Round about between the Quire and the Chapels is a long Corridor, which is capable of holding a great number of People, who may from thence behold all that is done at the great Altar, where divine Offices are performed with great edification, especially on the Festival days.

At one of the Pilasters standing between two Chapels, you may read the Epitaph of the famous Monsieur de Marolles, Abbot of Ville­loin, the greatest Translater into our Language we ever had, and who enriched it with abun­dance of Authors which were never before in French. Mons [...]eur the Abbot de la Chambre, his intimate Friend and Executor of his Will, caused it to be set up in this place to his Memo­ry. It is a Medaille of white Marble, and in it his Picture, on which a weeping Cupid leans, holding in his Hand a Torch reversed. This is the Inscription.

He was, perhaps, the ablest person of his Age in the knowledge of Prints. He had Collected a very great number which are now to be seen in the King's Cabinet. Amian Marcellin was the last Author which he Translated, at the end of which Book you may see a Catalogue of all the pieces that have been published in his name.

In the rest of this Church there is nothing ex­traordinary, unless it be a little Stair-case of one direct Line, winding like a Snail shell from the bottom to the top. It is all of Free stone and [Page 119] very high, it reaching to the Roof of the Church.

The Seminary House of St. Sulpitius is near the Church; the building i [...] [...]reat and spacious, and was raised at the expences of Mousieur de Bretonvilliers, who also hath furnished it at his own Costs. Observe here, especially the Chapel, the Plafon of which was Painted by M. le Brun, in which he hath represented the Assumption: This is one of the finest things that he ever did.

St. Germain's Fair is kept near St. Sulpice at the end of the Ruë de Tournon; it begins at the Feast of the Purification. 2 Feb. and lasts to the first Day of Lent, nay it continues often to Easter. The place is not extraordinary; it is composed of several cover'd Walks, disposed in a square form, and crossing one another. Here the Shop-keepers and Merchants keep their Sta­tions, and sell here generally all kind of Mer­chandize whatsoever. Tradesmen are privi­ledged to come to this Fair from all parts. There are some Shops here full of very rich Commo­dities and very curious things. And in that of M. Herot, you may meet with some Pictures of very great price.

Monsleur the Abbot Bourdelot dwells in the Ruë de Tournon, whose profound Learning has gain'd him mighty reputation. Every Wed­nesday he holds Conferences in his House, and the principal Discourses are in the Phy­sicks.

In the Ru [...] Gerance behind St. Sulpice, is the Hôtel da Leon, belonging to the Marquess of Sourdiac, who built it after the Designs of the Sieur Robellini: but it being unfinished, we see but a small part of those Beauties, which would [Page 120] have appear'd in case the Work had been con­tinued.

From hence we go to the Premontrez, whose House stands in a [...] place as you enter into the Ruë de Seve, at the meeting of Six Streets. Their Church is small, the Portal is of the Sieur Dorbay's Work. The Queen-Mother gave where­withal to raise it. And these Fathers owe the [...]r Establishment to that pious Princess.

Further on is the Abbaïe aux Bois, of the Ci­stercian Order. They were removed hither from Picardy about Sixty years since. Near this is

The Hospital for Distracted people, call'd Les Petites-Maisons, here you may see a Crucifix of great esteem, and done by an excellent Ma­ster.

In the same Street also is the Hospital call'd Les Incurables, the lower Rooms of which Hospi­tal are curiously vaulted, and the Diseased peo­ple lookt after very carefully. The Church hath nothing in it extraordinary. It is con­trived in the middle of the Apartments, equal­ly distant from the Men and Women. They re­ceive none into this House, but such as are af­flicted with incurable Diseases.

From the Ruë de Seve you pass into the Ruë de Grenelle, which begins at the Carrefour or open place of the Red Cross, near the Premontrez. The first thing you take notice of in this Street is the Hôtel d'Auvergne, in which dwells Monsi­eur the Count d'Auvergne▪ Colonel General of the Light Horse of France, Brother of the Duke of Boüillon, and Nephew of the famous Monsieur de Turenne. This Hôtel is not extraordinary well built, but the Garden is large and very pleasant. Further on at the Corner of the Ruë [Page 121] du Bacq. stands a large House, and very conve­nient habitation, in which the Spanish Embassador used to live.

Near this place dwells a Sculptor, at whose House you may see several Bas-reliefs, not ill designed, they are of the manner of one named Vanobstal, originally of Bruxelles, who was the first that brought the gust of Bas-reliefs into France, out of Italy. There are some things of his at Versailles, which are very much esteem'd, more especially those over the Doors of the Grotto.

Beyond this is the Hôtel de Navailles, a well built House; it consists of one great square Pa­villion, high raised, and overlooking all the ad­jacent Gardens, which renders the aboad very pleasant. Here formerly dwelt Monsieur de Cogneux, who built it. From hence you come to

The House of the Sieur Roland, one of the most knowing and Curious Men of all Paris in Buildings. This House, as also the Gardens, which have all the delights one can desire, are worth seeing. Here are Fountains, Arbours, Perspectives, and Parterres of the best sort. The Apartments are neatly furnish'd, and all things handsom, especially the Stair-case, which is of a singular design, and well approved by the Curious. At the end of this Street, in the ad­joyning Fields, you discover

The Hotel Royal, called Les Inva­lides.

OF all the King's Buildings, there is not any in which there appears more of mag­nificence and piety together than in this, since all that prodigious expence which hath been be­stow'd on this Work is solely intended for the maintenance of crippled Souldiers; who being disabled to serve any longer in the Army, would be forced to lead a Languishing and Miserable life, were it not for the support which they find in this House, where they are supply'd with all things, and may end the course of their Lives in the Exercise of Christian Piety. But that which is not a little surprising is, that all this vast Edifice was compleated, as it now is, in less than Eight Years, and in the height of the War.

About the Year 16**. they began to lay the first Foundations of this curious Structure, which at present makes one of the Chief Orna­ments of Paris. It is exactly square, and con­tains in its Circumference five Courts of the same Figure, one great one in the middle, and two lesser on each side, all which are compa [...]t about with Apartments, in which the Souldiers have their several Lodgings. That in the mid­dle is much greater than the rest, and the build­ings about it are of a handsom Symmetry. They are composed of two rows of Arches, one above the other, which makes so many Corridors or [Page 123] Galleries, by means of which you may walk dry round the Court. The top of the Buildings are adorn'd with Ornaments, representing Tro­phies of Armes, and such like things, which make a very handsom Show. At the end of the Court, just opposite to the principal Entry, is the Por­tal of the Church, composed of two ranks of Pillars, the first or lowermost of the Compo­site order, and the second of the Corinthian. Here you may enter into that part of the Church which is appointed for those of the House: as for those who come from abroad they are building another part already somewhat advan­ced, and this will be incomparably more mag­nificent. The Model in little may be seen in a Pavillion raised on purpose; if it be performed according to this Model, nothing can be seen more glorious or of a greater design. It will be a Dome very high raised, under which the great Altar is to be placed, which will be enricht with all the most beautiful Ornaments, which the most studied Architecture can produce. The Cove­ring is to be gilt like that at Val de Grace, but they intend this to be more regular, and better perform'd, both for the disposition and the Or­naments. You ought to see the Infirmaries, which are divided from the rest of the House, but not far off. The Beds are neat, and the Sick receive there all the help and assistance that is necessary, they are served by the Sisters of the Charity of St. Lazar's, who make it their parti­cular profession to wait upon the Sick in all parts of the Town, as well as in this House. But that which Strangers ought to observe more especi­ally, are the four great Refectories which are on each side of the middle Court, where you will [Page 124] see painted in Fresquo, the principal Sieges and Battels which France has gain'd against her Ene­mies. Few Pictures are more exactly design'd, or can shew more variety and life than these; the sight of which things cannot choose but give a very great pleasure, to those who were con­cern'd in the Actions represented. There is in this House a certain Souldier works in Tapistry, whom you ought not to forget to visit. As you go out you may observe the Front of the build­ing, with the great Court before it, compast about with a dry Ditch, and a Wall of Freestone, from which you have a delicate Prospect. They keep Guard at the Gates here in the same man­ner as in a Citadel, thereby to preserve the Souldiers in Health, and free from Idleness. The Discipline which they observe in this House is admirably exact; and the Fathers of the Mis­sion, who have the Care and Conduct of the place, acquit themselves very worthily.

All that remains of Note in this Quarter, after you have seen the Invalids is

The Hôtel, in which dwells Monsieur the Com­mandeur de Haute-Feüille, Embassador from Mal­ta, in a Street behind the Peutes-Maisons. Here you may see very Curious Pictures, with many other great Rarities, which can hardly be met with elsewhere.

Near this, in the Rüe du Bac, is the Seminary of the Foreign-Missions, where of late they have built a Church, the Roof whereof is very sur­prizing, it is indeed but low, because they design to raise a second Church upon this. It is the Invention of the Sieur du Buisson, an able Ar­chitect. From this House are sent Missionaries into the Indies to Preach the Gospel there to Infi­dels, [Page 125] in which office they acquit themselves with a very great Zeal, and their endeavours are blest with marvellous Success, as we perceive by the Relations of Monsieur the Bishop of Heliopolis, and all the other Travellers that come from those parts, who relate most surprizing things.

In the Rüe St. Dominique is the Noviciat of the Reformed Jacobins, whose Church is now build­ing, and will be none of the least handsom of Paris. The Sieur Bulet, who is the City Ar­chitect, hath undertaken the building of this Church, as also of the Houses round about; which bring these Fathers a considerable Reve­nue, and are well built. On the other side of the way is

The Hôtel de Luines, heretofore call'd the Hô­tel de Chevreuse, whose name has been changed since the death of the Dutchess of Chevreuse, on whose account it was first built. The Apartments are very handsom and convenient, and the Sieur le Muet made the design.

In the same Rüe Saint Dominique, you may perceive a new House built by order of the Hôtel-Dieu, whose Porch is very pretty, it stands at the further part of the Court, and is supported by Dorick Pillars, which shew curiously as you enter. The whole House is of the design of the Sieur le Duc.

In the Petite Rüe Guillaume, stands a large House in which dwells Monsieur Talon, Advocat General; the Structure is extream handsom, the Apartments very pleasant, having all their prospects upon the adjoining Gardens, the Court is great, and, in fine, it appears that there were no costs spared in the building; but that which gives it the best Ornament is the [Page 126] excellent Library in it, composed of the rarest and scarcest things, both for Manuscripts and Printed Books.

The Hospital call'd La Charite

THis Hospital is situated in the outermost part of the Town, in which the Curious must not expect to find any pleasing Sights; but Poor Sick People, who are served very neatly by the Brothers of the Order of St. John of God, who mind no other business but to assist and comfort these poor People, and to procure for them freely all such things as they need. Here are three or four great Rooms full of Beds on each side. In their Church you may see the Tomb of P. Bernard, who dyed in the Reputation of Sanctity, his Statue here represents him to the Life, kneeling.

Near the Door of this Church, on that side next the Rüe Tarane, is a new built Fountain of a very handsom design, on which these Verses of Monsieur Santeüil are graven:

In the Rüe des Saints Peres, adjoining is the Hôtel de Brissac, whose building is very regular: Here is a Gallery with several Apartments very delightsom.

The Hotel de S. Simon is in the same Street. This is very well placed, having the great Street call'd the Rüe Tarane over against it, which gives it an advantagious View. It was built by M. Salvois, who made use of the Sieur Gittar's de­signs.

The House where now dwells the Princess of Wirtemberg, is not far from hence. The Garden behind which hath a delicate air.

Almost over against the last mention'd House, stands another, which tho' it makes outwardly no great show; yet at the further part of the Court there you may see a piece of Perspective very well Painted, wherein at a distance you dis­cover a Triumphal Arch [...] l'antique, which shows well afar off.

THE RUE DE L'UNI­VERSITE.

YOU must observe that this Street changes its name in three places, all a­long by the Garden Walls of St. German's Abby, it is called the Rüe du Columbier; fur­ther about the middle it is call'd the Rüe Jacob, and at the end, the Rue de l'Ʋniversité. It is full of handsom Houses, and most new built. But the most remarkable and the greatest Curiosity to see, is

The Cabinet of Monsieur Blondel.Before we speak any thing of the Rarities in this rich Cabinet, it is convenient to say some­what of those excellent Works which Monsieur Blondel hath written. This learned person is so well known among all Scholars, that it would be difficult to say any thing in his commendation which is not known already. It is sufficient to give the Reader an Idea of his merit and pro­found Knowledge, to say only that the King made choice of him to teach the Mathematicks to Monseigneur the Dauphin, and appointed him Director of the Royal Academy of Archi­tecture, establish'd in the Palais Brion, and com­posed as all men know of the ablest Men of the [Page 129] Kingdom in this Science. The names of the pre­sent Members are,

• M. Blondel, Director, Maréchal de Camp to the King's Armies, and Mathematick-master to Monseigneur the Dauphin.
• M. Perault.
• M. le Vau, the Elder.
• M. le Pautre.
• M. Gittard.
• M. Bruan.
• M. D'Orbay.
• M. Mansard.
• M▪ Filibien, who is the Secretary, and has pub­lish'd several excellent Works, as we have al­ready mention'd in the first part of this Book P. 38. where we treated of the Kings Antique Statues at the Palais Brion.

Monsieur Perault of this Academy, hath pub­lish'd a Learned Translation of Vitruvius, enrich­ed with a great number of Figures; and but a while ago another Book of Architecture Entitu­led, L'Ordonnance des cinq especes de Colonnes des Anciens, highly esteemed by the Curious.

But to return to Monsieur Blondel, we are ob­liged to him for the new Plan of Paris, it being performed by his directions, according to the ex­press Order which the King gave to the Bur­gesses, not to suffer any one to undertake this Work but him, since it is well known, none could perform it so well as himself. It is to be seen at his House only, and contains 12 Sheets. The new Embellishments, as also the Town Gates lately raised, and all designed by him, are in­graved in the Edges. The same Author hath [Page 130] also publish'd A Treatise of Architecture in three Volumes, which were read as Lectures in the Academy, the Preface before which is very elo­quent and full of Instruction: A Treatise of Geo­metry Speculative and Practical, in two Volumes in Quarto; and another Of Arithmetick, in the same manner as he taught them to Monseigneur the Dauphin: Also The manner of Fortifying Places, wherein are ingraved very curious Plans of the best Fortifications that are in the World: The Comparison of Pindar and Horace, Dedicated to M. le Premier, President de Lamoignon: The Soluti­on of the four principal Problemes of Architecture, in Folio: Of the Royal Impression in the Louvre, adorn'd with Figures: The Art of casting Bombes, in Quarto; and lastly, another which came forth but the be­ginning of the last year, Entituled, The History of the Roman Kalendar, in which you may see not only all the several Manners which the antients made use of to count their Time, but also all that has past in reducing the Computation of time to the form that is now used, and the difficulties which have been met with before it was brought to the present regulation. This Book is so full of cu­rious Learning, that there is hardly any sort of People to whom it is not profitable: He hath also given us hopes of several other Books, which may be publish'd in time, they being ready for the Press; and they are these:

Galileus promotus de resistentia solidorum.

Geometrick Elements of Medieties.

A Treatise of Algebra.

A Treatise of the Motion of Celestial Bodies.

A Treatise of Dialling▪

A Treatise of Mechanick Arts.

[Page 131] A Treatise of the Proprieties of Püllies.

A Treatise of Attacking and Defending of Places.

Miscellanies of divers pieces of the Mathematicks and Physicks.

A Translation of Sermotsi's 3d. and 6th. Book of Architecture.

A Second Edition of Francis Savot's French Ar­chitecture, augmented with a great number of Notes.

But Books are not the only things that have made M. Blondel famous, the great Exploits which he hath perform'd in the Wars as well by Sea as Land: The Negotiations in which he has been employed with Foreign Princes; and in fine, the long Voyages which he has performed in the four parts of the World, wherein he has seen all that is observable, and thereby attained so perfect a Knowledge in all things, that the reputation of his Experience and Abilities hath justly acquired him the quality of a Counsellor of State.

He hath here one of the most curious Cabinets that is at present in Paris, in which are several Rarities of all the best and choicest kinds, and no less choicely preserved. Among other things, he hath here several original Pictures of Palma, of Paul Veronese, of Guido, and of the famous Poussin, several Land-skips of Paul Bril, of Cor­neille, of Breugle, of Fouquiere, of Lucas, and of divers others. Pieces of Fruit of Labrador, of Sommes; and of Flowers of Picard, of Mariv Del­siori, and of others: Also a great number of Limnings and Miniatures after the best Pain­ters; as Raphaël, Carache, and Poussin. Here are [Page 132] also 200. Leaves of the same Work representing Birds, besides those of Animals, which they made at Limoges in the last Age upon Gold and Silver; the secret of which work is at present lost, and which things are now sold at excessive Rates. Here are some Pictures of inlaid Wood, whose Colours are as beautiful as if they had been wrought with a Pencil.

But that which is infinitely more curious than all the rest, is the great number of Agates, a­mong which there are 40 greater than the rest, most of them are antique, and represent Deities, Emperors Heads, and Sacrifices, and are admi­rably well cut: Those which are modern are graved by Coldoré, a famous Lapidary, and by several others as great Artists; with these a small Chain of six great grains of Agate also.

Still these are not the most precious things of this Cabinet, there are some things of greater esteem, as 12 Bracelets composed of Agates, Cornelians, Onyx, Jasper, and of prime Eme­ralds adorn'd with Gold, which altogether make 150. antique Gravings, representing Roman Dei­ties, and all the Emperors from Julius Caesar to Labienus Posthumus, with 36. Empresses; among the Emperors the Heads of Pescenius Niger, and the 2 Africans are very curiously cut in Onyx. This Suit is lookt upon as one of the most singular Rarities that is at present, and it is without dis­pute the only thing of this kind in the whole World. For we never yet knew of any Man who collected a Suit of antique graved Stones as has been usually done of Medals; and this here hath been the Work of four of the most famous Vertuosi that ever were in France, who have above 50 Years used their endeavours to [Page 133] render this Collection compleat as it now is. Be­sides these there are four other Agates graved hollow representing the History of the Triumvi­rate, the Heads of Caesar, Mark Anthony, and Lepidus, are upon the three principal, and that of Cleopatra on the other. On a green Oriental Jasper of an Oval Figure which is placed in the middle, is represented a Pillar, at the [...]oot of which a Souldier holds up the point of his Dag­ger: This Pillar was call'd by the Antients Co­lumna execrata, in regard the Senate and M. Anthony caused it to be raised to the me­mory of Julius Caesar, and that all the Souldiers might come before this Pillar, and here swear to Revenge the death of that great Emperor. This Pillar was taken down by Dolabella. The Inscription graven about this curious Agate ex­plains the History, and is this, ‘MART VL. AUX. D. JUL. LACRI.’ Which signifies, Marti, ultori, auxiliatori, Di­vo Julio Lacrimae.

To Mars, the Revenger, the Helper, to Divus Julius Tears.

Upon this Pillar stands an Urn, and the Sidus Julium on one side, which, as Historians say, ap­pear'd after the Death of Caesar.

The other things are several Rings of Gold, adorn'd with precious Stones, as Rubies, Eme­ralds, and Oriential Topazes, a great Diamond [Page 134] in manner of a Button, very perfect; another Yellowish but very lively; an Aigue of the Sea, oriental; a great Violet-colour Ruby of 28. grains; an Opal of the East in the form of a little Lion; three great Boxes full of Stones graved of the antique, some hollow'd, and some in relief; several rare Shells of strange fashions; a Suit of one hundred Imperial Medals of Silver, and one hundred others of Greek and Roman, the best chosen of Padoüan.

As there want no Rarities in this rich Cabi­net, you may see here also several Persian and Turkish Armes, as Cimeters, Daggers, and Knives of Damask't Steel, whose hilts and handles are of Stone inlaid with Gold, and enricht with Jewels. There are also Japan Works, and the best sort of Porcelains; curious Books; some pie­ces of Ivory wrought in Sculpture, with a good quantity of Rosary-Beads of Agate; and a thou­sand other things of such sort, which would re­quire a long description, if we should mention all in particular.

All that you see in this Cabinet is of unusual Beauty, the Collection having been made by one who was perfectly knowing in these matters, and who spared no Costs to attain the thing which pleased him. On this account you will find in this House sufficient to satisfie any Mans Curio­sity. And the Civility with which they are shewn gives no less satisfaction to the Beholders, than the Rarities themselves occasion Admira­tion.

Beyond this on the same side of the way in the Rüe de l'Ʋniversité, stands the Hôtel Tambon­neau, perfectly well built, and designed by the Sieur le Veau.

[Page 135] The rest of this Street, deserves not much pains to examine it, tho' there be several good Capacious Houses in it, among others that of Monsieur the Grand Provost.

Also the Sieur Logeois otherwise call'd the Mar­quess of Imbercour, one of the Farmers General of the five great Farms, hath built here a great and convenient House, which will cost him a­bove 24000. Crowns before it be quite fi­nish'd.

You must not neglect to visit M. Pelitot, over against the Hôtel Tambonneau; he is one of the ablest Enamellers in Europe, and makes those curious Pictures in Enamel, which are set about with Diamonds, and presented to Embassadors; and sometimes they are set in Bracelets, being commonly no bigger than a Shilling, and often much less: One may confidently affirm that no Man did ever better understand this Art, nor has made his Pictures more like.

At the end of this Street in a House near the Hôtel de les Mousquetairs, you may see a Burning Glass which does wondrous things when exposed to the Sun, so far as to dissolve the hardest and the most incombustible Bodies that are. It is greater than any we have yet seen; and the Foot on which it stands is no less sin­gular, it being also of Steel, and wrought with much Art and Patience.

The Little AUGUSTINS.

THE Convent of these Fathers is in the Street which bears their Name, leads from the Rüe Columbier to the Edge of the Seine. Their House hath nothing extraordi­nary no more than their Church. The great Altar is of Joyners Work, well enough wrought, Marble Painted, and adorn'd with Statues of great esteem, especially that of the Dying Fi­gure. They are made, Clay baked, by one call'd Biardeau of Anjou, and so are all the rest, which are of a very good manner. M. Varin esteem'd the Head of this dying Figure worth its weight in Gold. Margaret of Valois, Wife of Henry IV. and Sister of Henry III. was one of their principal Benefactors, and by her Testament left them part of her Plate, which they use in adorning their Altar with that rich Furniture, which they expose on Festival Days. This Queen built entirely of her own Cost the Cha­pel on the right hand of the great Altar, which is in manner of a Dome, and the first which has been raised at Paris of this sort. The follow­ing Inscription is there ingraved on black Mar­ble.

One may perceive by this Inscription that these Fathers were formerly more austere than they are at present, in regard they were then Dé­cháussez or barefooted. That Queen built this Monastery in favour of her Confessor who was of this Order; his name was Francis Amet, origina­ry of the Town of Montargis. You ought to see their Library, which is very neat. Among these Fathers is Father Lubin, who is esteem'd one of the most skilful Geographers that we have. This is he who Translated the Relation of Lapland, which is sold at the Widow Varenne's at the Palais.

In the Ruë de Seine, behind the Colledge of the four Nations, is the Hôtel de la Roche-foucault, which was formerly known by the name of Hô­tel de Liancourt, whose building is very regular, and of a beautiful Ordinance. Here were for­merly very excellent Pictures, but they have been dispersed since the Death of the Duke of Liancourt who made the Collection.

Parallel to this Street lies the Ruë Mazarin, so call'd, since the building of the Colledge of the four Nations which takes up part of the Street, of which Colledge Cardinal Mazarin was the Founder. In the middle of this Street is the Theater of French Comedies over against the end of the Rüe Guenegaud; this is the only place where at present they act French Plays. Former­ly there were three places in Paris, where you had such Spectacles, at the Palais Royal, at the Marais du Temple, and at the Hotel de Bourgogne; but since the Invention of Opera's, these things [Page 139] have been changed, and these here are the only Company of French Comedians that remain at present. They often Act here new Pieces that are very pleasant, but are not of equal Beauty with those of M. Corneille, nor of M. Racine for serious Matters, no more than they are equal to those of the famous Moliere for Comick. All Strangers agree however that the French Scene is the handsomest and most magnificent of Europe, as well for the decoration of the Thea­ter, as for the Beauty of the Pieces there repre­sented; the Comedians moreover spare no Costs to satisfie the Spectators in the richness of their habits. There are some among them who com­pose Plays themselves, which makes them more expert, and enables them more thorowly to understand the Character which they repre­sent.

From the Ruë Mazarin you may turn into the Ruë de Guenegaud, in which dwells Monsieur the Abbot de la Roque, Author of the Journal des Sçavans, which he publishes every Fifteen days: The Curious receive this piece with extream satisfaction, since he shews so great care to en­rich it with all the fine things he can collect. M. de Salo, Counsellor in the Parliament, was the first who began this Journal in the Year 1665. and gave the Idea to Strangers, who found the invention so profitable and so pleasant, that they have imitated the same thing in divers parts of Europe. M. the Abbot Gallois continued the Journal for some years after, from 1666. to 1674. at which time M. the Abbot de la Roque undertook the Work, in which he hath always labour'd since then, with such success as has ac­quired him a very great Reputation in the [Page 140] World. He holds at his House every Thursday Conferences, at which many Learned Persons meet, and propose to him the Discoveries they have made in the Arts and Sciences.

From this Street you go upon the Key of the Augustines, which begins at the Pont Saint Mi­chael, and runs all along the River as far as the Pont-Neuf.

The Convent of the Grand Augustines.

THE House of these Fathers is of no greater Antiquity than that of the other Mendi­cants, of which I have already spoken. Histo­rians say, that they came to Paris about the Year 1270. and that they were then call'd the Hermites of St. Augustine. Their first Habitation was near the Gate of Mont-martre, in the Street call'd Rüe des Vieux Augustines, which still keeps that name, and while they dwelt in that Quarter they made use of the Church of St. Mary Aegyptian, which is still remaining. They changed their abode some years after, and came into the Rüe des Bernardins, where there is at present St Nicho­las du Chardonnet: but finding that place no more Commodious than the former, they shifted once again▪ and came at last to this place, intending to associate with the Penitents called Sachets, who were apparel'd in a kind of Sackcloth, and were placed by St. Lewis on the Bank of the Seine, in the same place where the Convent stands at this day. This habitation the Sachets left en­tirely to them, and became themselves dispersed [Page 141] into divers places. The Church belonging to these Father; was not built till the time of Charles the Fifth, called the Wise, as one may observe from the Inscription placed at the Foot of his Sta­tue, placed at the entrance of the great Door on the Right Hand.

The Church was dedicated by William Chartier, Bishop of Paris, in the year 1453. assisted by a great number of Prelates, who performed this Ce­remony with much Solemnity. The Great Altar is a modern Work; it is but two years since it was finisht. M. le Brun made the Design, which is not much different from that of St. Severin: you may observe that the Joyners Work of the Quire, is of the best sort in Paris, as is also the Tribune between the Quire and the Nave adorn'd with black Marble Pillars of the Corinthian Or­der. On each side of the Door under this Tri­bune, are two Chapels, one dedicated to the Holy [Page 142] Virgin, and the other to St. Nicholas of Tolentin. The Pulpit is also adorn'd with certain Carvings gilt, and the Bas-reliefs which are round about, are carefully preserved, they being wrought by Germain Pilon, yet these Fathers have been not long since perswaded to gild them.

In this Church are several Tombs of illustri­ous Persons, among which Philip de Comines is the most famous; he lived under Lewis the Eleventh, and was his principal Secretary. The Memoires which he hath left us are so excellent and so profitable, that they have been translated into Latin, with Commentaries and Notes upon them: And M. Godefroy, Historiographer of France, hath printed a French Edition of them at the Louvre, according to the Original, in the Language of the time, which he hath illustra­ted with many curious Remarks. That learned Man is buried with his Wife in a little low Cha­pel behind the Altar belonging to the Knights of the Holy Ghost, and one cannot see his Tomb unless the Sacristan open the Door of the place in which it is, it not appearing outwards. You must not forget to observe the great Picture in this Chapel, representing the Descent of the Holy Ghost upon the Holy Virgin, and the Apostles; it is the Work of—a Famous Painter. There is another Picture on the side of the same bigness, representing Lewis the Thirteenth in his Ceremonial Robes giving the Collar of the Holy Ghost to a Lord, assisted with the principal Officers of the Order, in their pro­per Habits also. In this Chapel are perform'd the Ceremonies of the great promotions, and Henry the Third made choice of this place when he first Instituted the Order of the Holy Ghost [Page 143] on the last day of December, 1579. as did appear by an Inscription which was not long since taken away, but this is a Copy:

You ought not to neglect to read the Epitaph [Page 144] of the Learned M. de Sainte-Beuve, a Parisian [...] of the Sorbonne, and a person most fa­mous for his profound Knowledge, and extraor­dinary Probity, both which did acquire him the esteem and confidence of the most illustrious Prelates of his time: The Epitaph was made by his Brother, and is placed on one side of the great Altar, on a Table of black Marble, of which this is a Copy:

In their Cloister is a Statue of St. Francis kneeling, it represents him in the posture he might be in when he received the Stigmata. This Statue is much esteemed, it being made by Germain Pilon, and by him presented to these Fathers in the year 1588.

The Assemblies of the Clergy are usually held in this Convent▪ of which we have seen some these last years.

Not far from this Monastery is the Rüe Dau­phine, so call'd, because built at such time when Lewis 13th. came into the World. Before that here were only certain old Gardens full of Ruins, across over which they cut this Street, at the end of the Pont-Neuf. It had at the end of it a Gate of the same name, which about 10 or 12 years ago was taken down, for the better uni­ting the Suburbs and the Town together. After [Page 147] you have past this Street, as you follow the course of the River you come to

The Hôtel de Conti. This was formerly call'd the Hôtel de Nevers; but that name being de­termined after the Marriage of the two Princesses who were the last of the Family, one of which was Married to Casimit King of Poland, and the other to Prince Edward of the Palatine [...]amily, the H [...]tel de Nevers passed into other hands; Monsieur de Guenegaud, Secretary of State, bought it, and made here very considerable augmentations. Who, being one of the Richest and most Magnifi­cent persons of his time, spared no Costs to adorn it without and within, and raised also several Houses in the Street behind the Walls of the Garden, which Street is call'd after his name to this day. The Entrance into this Hôtel appears great, and the inside is very sutable. You ought to endeavour to see the Chapel which is really very handsom, adorn'd with Corinthian Pillars, and other Ornaments of a very good gust. It is the Work of Mansard, as is also the great Stair-case which is highly esteem'd. The Garden is very pleasant, planted with an Ally of Trees, and has a great Parterre. The Apart­ments have their several Prospects, which ren­ders them very pleasant in Summer. The late Princess of Conti, one of the Wisest and most Virtuous Ladies of this Age, changed away to M. de Guenegaud for this House, her fair House of Bouchet, together with the old Hôtel de Conti, where lives at present Monsieur the Duke of Crequi. In one Corner of this Hôtel stands a great House, which makes no distinct appearance outwardly, but depends upon this Hôtel. One can hardly desire a better contrived building [Page 148] or neater than this. Monsieur the Prince de la Roche-sur-Yon dwells in it at present, that so he may be near his Brother the Prince of Conti.

Between this Hôtel and the Colledge de Quatre Nations, Monsieur the Abbot de la Chambre, one of the French Academy, hath his Lodgings, where you may see many fine Curiosities. He hath a very great number of all sorts of excellent Books, among which are many Prints and pieces of Architecture. But the greatest Rarity of all is a Marble Bust of the famous Cavalier Bernin, made at Rome a little before his Death; and another Bust of Christ, made by the same Master; with another of M. de la Chambre, his Father, whose name is so famous among all Men of Learning, for those many excellent Works which he hath publish'd, and for that particular Cha­racter which he hath, of treating of the most pro­found Matters, with a stile so neat and polite. Beside this you may see at M. the Abbot de la Chambre's several Copies of Poussin's best pieces, and some Models in Wax of some of Bernin's Sta­tues. Near this is

The Colledge des Quatre-Nations.

HEre stood formerly the old Gate call'd Porte de Nesle, with a very high Tower, which did much incommode this Quarter. The Heirs of Cardinal Mazarin, who by his Testament ap­pointed the Foundation of this Colledge, bought this place for that purpose, and caused those [Page 149] Buildings to be pull'd down, which obstructed the form of that Plan which the Cardinal himself had drawn out. The Key, which was broken off in this place, was continued as far as the Pont-Rouge, and at last they raised the Buildings in such manner as we now see them, of a most curious Ordinance without. They consist of two great Pavillions, square and very high, adorn'd with Corinthian Pilasters, which standing in a Demi-Circle, enclose a small Place or open Court; at the further part of which is the Portal of the Chapel raised upon some steps, and adorn'd with six Corinthian Pillars, which make a kind of Portico. Over all the Work, which stands some­thing higher than the Wings, are placed twelve Statues, representing the four Evangelists, the Fathers of the Greek Church, and the Fathers of the Latin Church; these serve for an Ornament to the Dome which rises above them, and is en­rich'd without with all the Ornaments one can desire, as gildings upon the Lead in manner of Festoons, and Fe [...]illages over the Slates, which are cut and placed like the Scales of Fishes. The inside of the Church is not in the splendor at pre­sent which it is like to have in time. And the Tomb of Cardinal Mazarin, which is to be placed here, is not yet begun. On the Frise over the Portal you may read this Inscription:

The inner part of this Colledge is very spa­cious; it is composed of two Courts, the first of which and also the least, is adorn'd with two Portico's, one of which leads to the Church, in the other is the Stair-case that goes up to the Apartments of the foremost buildings. The other Court is very great and all the buildings run along one side only, in which are convenient Lodgings for a very great number of People. The Schools are below in the Ground Rooms, level with the Court. But these things ought not to detain you long, you ought to see the Library which is composed of Thirty five thou­sand Volumes, collected together by Cardinal Mazarin, with great Care and Charges. They are placed in excellent order, and the Presses are wrought of Wainscot adorn'd with Pillars and Sculpture. This Library is of great length, and it takes up one of the Pavillions that runs out upon the Key. Monsieur de la Potrie one of the most intelligent men of the Kingdom in Books, hath the care of this Library, and shews it to the Curious very obligingly. It is said that it will be made publick, and that people will have allowance to study there on certain days every Week, as is done in that of St. Victor's, but no body knows when this will be. The Revenue which is ap­propriated [Page 151] for the maintenance of this Colledge is considerable: For beside the Abby of St. Michael en Herme, which is of a great Rent; there are several Houses in the Rüe Mazarin, from which arises a very great Summ of Money. The De­sign of Cardinal Mazarin was to entertain here the Gentlemen of those four several Nations, whose Country hath been so long time the Theater of War, and that they might be here Instructed in all those Exercises that are proper for Persons of Quality. Here are to be Sixty in all; Fifteen from the parts about Pignerol, for Italy; as many out of Alsatia for Germany; Twenty out of the Catholick Low Countrys; and Ten from Rous­sillon; that so these people being acquainted with the French manners, may have an affection for that Nation from whom they have received such Benefits. The Doctors of the Sorbonne are to have the Government of the Colledge, and to teach here Humanity. Here is also to be taught the Riding the great Horse, and there is already a place set out for a Manege (or Rideing School.) They are also to be taught to Dance, to handle their Armes, to Vault; the Mathematicks, and all belles Lettres, (or Polite Learning.) And these Gentlemen have all this and all sort of Enter­tainment gratis, without costing them one [...]ar­thing, which makes this Foundation esteem'd as one of the best, and most useful that could be in­vented.

On the Key that runs along the River side, is placed this Inscription, in black Marble, front­ing towards the Louvre, composed by M. Blon­del.

On the same side is the Hôtel de Crequi. In which Monsieur the Duke of Crequi, Governor of Paris and one of the four principal Gentlemen of the Chamber, makes his abode. You may see here very Curious Pictures, and very rich Furni­ture.

The Hôtel de Boüillon is next, whose Apart­ments are magnificent, adorn'd with Plafons. Here is no sparing in furnishing the House with the best sort of Ornaments.

The House which makes the Corner of the Rüe des Saint Peres, at present possest by Monsi­eur the Marechal d'Humieres, Governor of Flan­ders. It is a very regular building, and wants [Page 153] nothing but a little more Room, to make it lighter.

Further on is the House of the late President Perault, Intendant of Monsieur the Prince, which has been built with much Cost. You ought above all to see the Gallery which fronts the Ri­ver, open on both sides correspondently, and adorn'd with several Pictures representing the principal Persons of the Royal Family of France, with a long Genealogick Chart in Vellom of the House of Bourbon, in which are the Por­traits of all those Princes from St. Lewis, down to the present Reign, in miniature. In the Garden are some very good Statues, two Gladia­tors, colour'd like Brass, the Venus Medicis, and a young Bacchus of the same kind, with some others, very well cast off from the Antiques at Rome. The great Iron Arbour is remarkable for its heighth, and for its being the first that ever was made of this sort. We ought not to forget the Chapel, in which is a Picture done by Albert Duret, and highly esteemed, with some Copies of the Sacraments from the Famous Pous­sin. This is a general account of what is here remarkable, not mentioning the Furniture, which was very neat during the Master's Life, who past for one of the Curiousest and best Judging men of the Kingdom.

We come next to the Theatins. Cardinal Mazarin was their principal Founder, having left them at his death a great Summ of Money for the building of their Church, which was be­gun with much Cost, but is since left off imper­fect, the enterpr [...]ze being much greater than the Legacy, which was left 'em. These Fathers are the only Men of this Order in France, and Car­dinal [Page 154] Mazarin was the first that brought them out of Italy.

The last house that you see in this Row, on the side of the River, is the Hotel de Mailly, now building. It will stand very convenient and pleasant, in regard its prospects are extended over the Tuilleries, and over the Cours de la Reine, the two most beautiful Walks of Paris.

The Cours de la Reine, is on the other side of the River, at the end of the Tuilleries; it was planted with four rows of Trees, as we see it, by the care of Mary of Medicis, who gave the publick this agreeable Walk: The Marechal de Bassompierre has been at the charge to enclose it on that side next the River, all along with a Wall of Freestone. It is in length a Roman Stadium, and at each end hath a Door of Iron, supported with certain Stone Works of a Rustick Order, which make a very handsom effect. This Walk is the pleasanter in regard it is upon the Banks of the River, from whence it hath such a fresh Air, as in Sum­mer draws hither all the Gentry, and persons of Fashion in Paris. You may count here often times no less than seven or eight hundred Coaches, which drive about in the exactest order that can be, and without the least embarrass imagina­ble.

These are the principal things that are to be seen in the Quarter of the Faux-bourg St. Germain. There may be here other Rarities no less singular than these, but in regard they are in particular hands, whose owners do not care to have them known, I think it best to make no mention of them, as well to oblige the owners, as to save the Labour of the Curious that they may not ask to see what they are in great hazard to be deny'd.

L'ISLE DU PALAIS, (Or Island of the Palace.)

THIS is the last Quarter that remain [...] to write of, tho' according to Hi­story and Antiquity, it should have been first mention'd; but we did not think that proper for some reasons, mention'd in the begin­ning of this Book. Formerly the whole Town of Paris contain'd no more than that space of Ground which lies between the two Armes of the Seine, which place still retains its ancient name of the City. This is the fullest of People of any Quar­ter of Paris; but withal the most incommodious, by reason of that great confusion of Houses, very high for the most part, which make the Streets narrow and obscure.

The most remarkable things in this Quarter, are some Churches and the Palais, or place where the Parliament sit.

The Church of Notre-Dame.

THis Church is the Cathedral of Paris, and the Seat of an Arch-Bishoprick, which was erected in the Pontificate of Pope Ʋrban the VIII. in the Year 1622. It was before that only a Bishoprick, but that very ancient; since St. Denis who lived but a little time after the Apostles, was the Founder. This Church, in the first Ca­tholick Ages, was call'd by the Christians of those times, by the name of that Saint its Founder; but it being rebuilt in the Reign of Childebert, eldest Son of Clovis, about the year 522. it was then dedicated to the Holy Virgin, whose name it has ever since retain'd. King Robert one of the most pious and wisest Princes that France ever had, perceiving the antient Building not to have all that Beauty and Magnificence, which it might have; begun another, but the design being a vast undertaking, it was not brought to perfection till many Years after. Henry the First his Son, Philip the First, Lewis the Gross, Lewis the Young, and Philip Augustus his Succes­sors, did all assist in the Work, and it was finisht under the glorious Reign of the last, as we may presume, because he is the last of those 24. whose Statues are set up on the great Frontis­piece.

The Structure of this Church is of the Gothick manner, but the handsomest and best perform'd in France. It is very remarkable for its Gran­deur and Solidity. The Vaults are very high [Page 157] raised, and contain 17. Toises (a Toise is six Foot) in height, the breadth is 24. and the length 65. The 2. great squate Towers in the Front, are 34 Toises high, flat on the top, so that from this place one may easily and conveniently dis­cover all Paris. The Bells that hang in the Towers are very fair ones, the biggest of them was cast but a while ago, for which purpose the Chapter hath been at a very considerable ex­pence, and yet it hath no very pleasing Sound. All the Body of the Church is cover'd with Lead, and it is easie to judge what a prodigious quantity there goes to cover so great a Roof.

As for the inside of the Church, the Curious who are Lovers of Painting, will here find suffi­cient satisfaction in viewing those great Pictures which all the Pillars are adorn'd with. Those in the Quire are much better than the rest. Here are two of M. Le Brun's hand, one representing the Crucifying of St. Peter, the other the Mar­tyrdom of St. Steven. Here is also one piece of le Sueur's, representing St. Paul in the midst of a Publick Assembly, casting into a Fire the Books of Magick, before the Gate of the Temple, whose Portico is supported with Pillars: This Picture ought to be esteem'd as one of the choicest that can be seen, it being of the best manner of that excellent Master, who in the Judgment of some able Men, is esteem'd the Se­cond French Painter of this Age, and next to the famous Poussin. In former Years on every first day of May, the Company of Goldsmiths did use to present a Picture to this Church, for the ma­king of which they employ'd some renowned Painter, who had made himself known and gain'd a Reputation; but this Year the Custom [Page 158] hath been intermitted, tho' we hope it will be continued again hereafter. There are few Cathe­dral Churches in Europe, wherein the Divine Service is perform'd with more exactness and Reverence. The Chapter is composed of 50. Canons, among whom there are some very fa­mous and of great Merit.

Among the rest, Monsieur Joli, the Chanter, and one of the Canons, is known to be a person of extraordinary Probity and Diligence in his Office, and who to his singular Merit hath ad­ded a profound Learning. He hath made pub­lick several Works, some of which are already very scarce to be met with. The principal are

An Historical Treatise of the Episcopal Schools, 1678.

Christian propositions for relief of the Poor, 1652.

A Voyage to Munster in the Year 1646.

A Translation of two Books of the State of Mar­riage, composed by Francis Barbaro, a Noble Venetian.

A Christian Instruction for the Financiers, 1667.

Christian and Moral Advice for the Education of Children.

The Christian Widow, Dedicated to the late Queen-Mother.

Divers small Tracts collected from the Memoires of M. Antoine Loisel. Advocate in Parliament, his maternal Grandfather.

De Verbis Ʋsuardi quae in Martyrologio Ecclesiae Pari­siensis referuntur in festo Assumptionis B. Mariae Virginis, in 12. 1662.

Traditio antiqua Ecclesiarum Franciae seu totius Imperii Occidentalis, quae in ipsius Martyrologio ad festum Assumptionis B Mariae Virginis referun­tur, Vindicata, 1672.

[Page 159] There are also some other Books ascribed to him, Entituled

Recüeil de Maximes veritables & importantes pour l'institution du Roi.

Codicille d'Or, ou petit Recüeil tirè de l'Instution du Prince Chr [...]tien, composé par Erasme, mis en Francois sous le Roi Francois I. & a present pour la deuxiéme fois, aves d'autres petites pieces, 1665. in 12.

Traitè de la restitution des Grands, precedé d'un [...] Lettre touchant quelques points de la Morale Chrè­tienne, 1665. in 12.

De Reformandis horis Canonicis & rit [...] constitu­endis Clericorum muneribus, Consultatio, 1643. in 12.

This last mention'd Book is a most curious piece. He hath also compiled together the Works of Monsieur Guy Coquille, containing many Curious Tracts relating to the Liberties of the Gallican Church, in two Volumes in [...]olio. He had a numerous Library, but gave it away to the Chapter about two years since, on Condition that it be publick, and that all sorts of People may have liberty to come and study in it freely. It is at present in a house in the Cloifter, behind the Draw-wells, on that side next the Church; and we may e're long see it considerably augmented, some other of the Canons having promised to add their [...]ooks to it.

It ought to be observed that the Canons of this Church rise at midnight to go to Matines, which they still say at that hour, according to the ancient usage of the Church. There are some [Page 160] antient Men among these hanons, who for 30. or 40. Years together, have not omitted one single time: and this is almost the only Church in the Kingdom, that hath Religiously conti­nued this pious Custom, tho' so painful and troublesom, especially in Winter. The Ca­nons places are of no great Revenue, yet they are much esteem'd, because they are very honou­rable.

On Festival days you may see here very rich Ornaments. Their Silver Vessels, or Altar Plate, is of the best Workmanship. It consists of six great Candlesticks, and a Cross made by Monsieur Baslin. Over the Copper Pillars, be­hind the great Altar, is the Shrine of St. Marcel, one of the first Bishops of Paris. It is of Silver gilt, adorn'd with precious Stones, and Enamel of a delicate Colour. On Whit-sunday they ex­pose here a Suit of Ornaments of Crimson Sat­tin, Embroidered with Pearls, some of which are very large. This was the gift of Queen Isabel of Bavaria, Wife of Charles VI. Which Present she made in order to obtain of God her Husbands Cure, being afflicted with a troublesom Distem­per. The fair Suit of Tapistry, which they dis­play here on the great Festivals, representing the Life of the Holy Virgin; is the gift of M. le Masle Prior of Roches, Chanter of this Church, and Secretary to the Cardinal de Richelieu, the same who gave his Library to the Sorboune. The Statue which we see on a Pillar on the left hand of the great Altar, represents Philip Augu­stus, whose Wife is interred here in the Quire; as is also a Son of Lewis the Gross, who refused to be Bishop of this Church, because he would not by his own promotion, hinder that of the fa­mous [Page 161] Peter Lombard, who was chosen in his stead. The Tomb of Copper raised about one Foot from the Ground, near the Quire Door, belongs to a Bishop of Paris, named Odo de Sulli, in whose Pontificate this Church was finish'd; he lived in the Reign of Philip Augustus, and died in the year 1208.

In the Chapels behind the Quire there are more Tombs, the most considerable of which are those of the House of Gondi, originally of Italy, who came into France with Catharine de Medicis, the Cardinal de Retz, who died about 3. years since Abbot of St. Denis, and had been Arch-Bishop of Paris, was the second Cardinal of this Family. The Chapel of the Virgin, which is on one side of the Door that leads into the Quire, is adorn'd with many Silver Lamps, and abundance of other curious Offerings that have been made here. Some years ago they placed before the great Altar, that huge Lamp of Silver, given by the late Queen-Mother, which weighs 120. Marks, (a Mark is 8 Ounces) and is six Foot in Diameter. This Chapel of the Virgin, has been sometimes called the Sluggards Chapel, because of the very late Masses which were said here for such as lay long a bed: It was the only place in Paris that enjoyed this priviledge, contrary to the Custom of the past Ages, when it was forbid to say Mass after 10. a Clock. Over against this is the Statue of Philip de Valois, on Horse­back Armed, and Caparison'd as the fashion was in his time. He is represented in such manner, as when he came into this Church, to return his Thanks for a Battel gain'd over the Flemings near Cassel; a Battle so Bloody that he saw 22000. of his Enemies dead upon the place. [Page 162] Near this is a great Picture, representing Lewi [...] XIII. in his Royal Robes, kneeling at the Feet of Christ taken down from the Cross; it is the Vow of that King made in a dangerous fit of Sick­ness. I shall say nothing of the several Chapels round the Nave, all well Wainscotted and Pain­ted; nor of the Galleries over the sides capable of holding a vast number of People; for this would be to engage too far into particulars. I shall only say that Paulus Aemilius, that famous Historian, is interr'd in this Church on the North side, but the precise place is not known. However you might have read this Epitaph not long since.

PAULUS AEMILIUS VERONENSIS, hujus Ecclesiae Canonicus, qui praeter eximiam Vitae sanctitatem, quantâ quoque Doctrinâ prae­stiterit, judex atque testis erit Historia de rebus [...]estis Francorum, posteris ab eodem edita.

OBIIT A. P. 152 [...]. DIE 5. MENSIS MAII.

Paulus Aemilius of Verona, Canon of this Church, of whose great Learning, besides his extraordinary Sanctity▪ his History of France will be a sufficient testimony to Posterity.

He died in the Year 1526. the 5. of May.

In the Sacri [...]ty, you may see an excellent Bust of Cardinal de Richelieu, made by Cavalier [Page 163] Bernin, which the Dutchess of Aiguillon gave to this Church by her Testament.

On the South side of this Church, stands the Archiepiscopal Palace, on the bank of the River Seine. The House makes no very handsom show on the outside, but is within very commodious and neat. Here is very handsom Furniture, and a Cabinet of choice Books. The Garden is but little, and consists only of one or two Alleys along the River.

Behind the Church of Nostre-Dame, stands another little one very ancient, call'd St. Denis du Pas, because the first Torment that they in­flicted upon that Saint was in this place, where they put him into a hot Oven, from which he was deliver'd by a Miracle.

The Cloister where the Canons live is in­closed with ancient Walls, within which they have their several Apartments. Formerly when they lived in Community like the Religious, Women were not suffered to dwell here; but since they have been Secularized, they have had distinct Lodgings, and it hath been permitted to those who have room to spare, to let out their Apartments, which has been the occasion to in­troduce here all sorts of People.

M. Menage, so well known among the Learn­ed for all his excellent Works▪ dwells in this Cloister. Every Wednesday he hath in his House a Meeting for the improvement of the Sciences, to which all Men who make any profession of Learning are freely admitted.

These are the most remarkable matters in this Cloister, which is join'd to the Isle of Nostre-Dame, by a Bridge of Wood, over which lies a Commu­nication.

[Page 164] From hence, you pass before the Hôtel-Dieu. This Hospital is the principal and greatest of all Paris; they receive here indifferently all poor Sick People, and you may sometimes reckon here to the number of 4000. who are all enter­tained and nourished with exceeding great Care. They are served by Nuns of St Augustine's Order, whose Rule is the more severe, in regard they are to spend their whole Life in this Exercise, which they could never undergo without admi­rable Virtue and Patience, by reason of all those incommodities which they pass through, near so many poor Sick People, whose Miseries and Diseases render them equally froward and insup­portable. This Hospital hath very great Re­venues, and they encrease daily more and more, by reason of the gifts that are continually given to it. The building is not handsom, nay it is very incommodious, because it is straitned for Room; the Ground on which it stands being shut up on all sides. They have been therefore con­strained to extend their buildings upon the very River, and to erect a great Room upon a long Vault, under which the Stream runs. Tho' there be here a very great number of Beds, they are not sufficient for that greater quantity of Sick which are brought hither every day; and some­times they are constrained to put 3. or 4. in the same Bed. They have several and distinct Rooms, where they lodge those who are afflicted with like Distempers, that so the Disease may not spread. The Hall on that side next the Petit-Pont, whose outside is adorn'd with Figures, was built by Cardinal Anthony du Prat, Chancel­lor of France, and Legate of the Holy See, about the Year 1535. It is thought that the first [Page 165] Foundation of this great Hospital was laid by St. Landri, the 28th. Bishop of Paris, who lived under Clovis the 2d. in the Year 660. In the first Ages of Christianity, Bishops were, by a laudible Cu­stom, obliged to Nourish and Lodge the Poor, as being the Dispensators and Trustees of the Poors [...]state. For this reason they built Hospitals near their Cathedral Churches, to the end that so they might be the principal Administrators themselves; as at this Day the Arch-Bishop hath the chief direction here, with the Primier Presi­dent, and the Procurer General; the Canons of Nostre-Dame have the Direction of the Spiri­tuals.

St. Lewis, as William de Nangis, who hath com­pos'd a History of France much esteemed, tells us▪ was a great Benefactor to this Hospital, and did considerably augment its revenue. Henry the 4th. did the like, giving wherewithal to build one of the fairest Halls, which is that of St. Thomas, raised upon a Stone Bridge, very solid, and finisht 1602. It is a very Edifying Curiosity to see in what manner the Poor are served in this Hospital. Princesses have sometimes performed here the vilest Offices of Ser­vants; and even in our days we have known The Dutchess of Nevers, Mo­ther of Madam R [...]iale, & of the Queen of Portu­gal deceased.one dye of a Dis­ease which she caught here in giving some Broth to a Poor Creature. sick of the Small Pox.

Over against the principal Gate that goes into the Parvis de Nostre-Dame, you may see a great Stone Statue, very high, which represents a Man holding a Box in his hand, and a Serpent by his side. It is supposed to be the Statue of [Page 166] Esculapius, God of the Physicians, who is presu­med to have had some Temple in this place. On the Fountain behind this Statue, these Verses are ingraved.

All this Quarter is full of Churches, which in truth are but small but very ancient. Their names are

St. John le Rond, standing on one side of the Church of Nostre-Dame, and is the Parish Church of the Cloister.

St. Christophers, over against the same Church.

St. Geneviéve des Ardens, which has been so named, by reason of a famous Miracle, which happen'd through the Intercession of that Saint, when her Shrine was carried in procession to Nostre-Dame, in order to the obtaining a Cure for an Epidemical Disease, call'd Les Ardens, because those who were afflicted with this Distemper were inflamed with such a Thirst, that no Remedy could abate. This Miracle happen'd in the Reign of Lewis VI. in the year 1130. under the Ponti­ficate of Pope Innocent the 2d. And for a perpe­tual Memorial, this Church was built, it being [Page 167] before that but a small Chapel; but in process of Time it is become a Parish Church, tho' the Parish be but of sinall extent.

St. Peter aux Boeufs, where they touch Cat­tle with a hot Key, to keep 'em from running Mad.

St. Marine, the Parish Church of the Arch-Bishop's House, to the Curate of which Church are sent all Marriages, that are gain'd by Sentence n the Officialty.

St. Landri.

St. Symphorian.

St. Denis de la Chartre, where according to some Mens Opinions, that great Apostle of France, was put into Chains, and for some time cast into an obscure Prison, when he came to bring the Faith and Light of the Gospel into France. The late Queen-Mother, whose piety extended into many places, repair'd the Altar, and placed there all the Figures which you see, repre­senting a Miracle which happen'd to the Saint, when he was shut up in this place; they are the Work of M. Anguerre. This Church is a Priory of the Order of St. Benet, enjoyed by M. l'Abbè Testu, one of the French Academy. Near to this is the Church of

Saint Magdelain. Some hold that this is one of the oldest in Paris, and that for this reason it is exempted from making Processions as others do. Here is a Fraternity that was formerly of so great Reputation, that the greatest Lords entered themselves of it, after the Examples of the King, and the Princes of the Blood. The other Churches are

[Page 168] Sainte Croix.

St. Peter des Arcis.

St. Martial.

St. Germain le Vieux. Whose great Altar is of a very handsom Wainscot Work, adorned with Corinthian Pillars of black Marble, with a Pi­cture representing the Baptism of our Lord, Painted by Stella, an excellent Master. This Church was formerly dedicated to St. John Baptist, before they brought hither the Reliques of St. Germain, in the Reign of King Pepin, for fear they should be plundered by the Barbarians, if they remained in the Abby of his name, which at that time stood without the Town. That King himself assisting in carrying the Shrine upon his own Shoulders from the Abby to this place. In memory of the Miracle which then happened as they past by the little Châtelet, he gave to St. Germains the Estate at Palaiseau, six Leagues from Paris.

Lower in the Street near the Palais, are the Bar­nabites. These Religious have been in the Possessi­on of this Priory, but since the beginning of this Age before that time it belonged to the Order of St. Benet, under the name of St. Eloy. And the Re­venues are re-united to the Arch-Bishoprick of Paris. Their Church is unfinisht. The House which they have erected here, about four or five years since▪ hath cost them more than 50000. Crowns; but it was a very necessary building, for before that they had hardly any Lodgings to lye in.

St. Bartholomew is also over against the Palais, to which and to all this Quarter it belongs as the proper Parish Church. This was formerly also a Priory of the Order of St. Benet, dedicated to [Page 167] St. Magloire, but the Monks left it, to avoid the Tumult and Noise of the place, and removed to the Faux-bourg Saint Jacques, near the little Chapel of St. George, belonging to them at that time. This Translation was made, as hath been already said, in the Reign of Lewis the Young, in the Year 1138. This Benefice was since re­united to the Arch-Bishoprick, and the Church made Parochial, the Extent of which Parish reaches to the Rüe St. Denis, St. Zue St. Giles was once annext to this; and we have known a Curate who was possest of both these Benefices, but they have been since divided because of the great distance.

The Church is obscure and ill built. The great Altar is of Wainscot Work, and of a hand­som design. There is a Chapel on the right hand, in which you may see two Pictures of M. Herault's Work, one represents St. William, and the other St. Charles B [...]romeus. That over the Altar is of M. Loir's hand, and represents St. Ca­tharine kneeling, and receiving on her Finger a Ring, which is put on by the Infant Jesus. The rest is not much remarkable.

Missire Lewis Servin, Advocate General in the Parliament of Paris, is interr'd in St. Bartholo­mew's. He was a person who had gain'd by his extraordinary Merit, the Respect and Love of all those who knew him; and his Reputation was so great throughout all Europe, that the most Famous Men of Learning of his time, made it their glory to hold a Commerce by Letters with him, as we see in their Printed Works, where are some Letters of his, of wonderful Wit and Genius. His inviolable Fidelity for the Right side, gain'd him the Confidence of Henry III. [Page 168] who made him his Advocate-General, after the dismission of Messire Jaques Faye Despesses, which Office he perform'd with a most exemplary Inte­grity, until the Year 1626. in which he died, as he was making an Oration to Lewis XIII. then sitting on his Throne of Justice in the Par­liament. The University, to whom he had done great Service, made him a solemn Fune­ral at the Mathurins, where his Elogium was pro­nounced in Latin. These two Verses may serve for his Epitaph:

THE PALAIS.

IF I had obliged my self in this Collection, to speak of the Antiquities of those things which I treat of in Paris, I should have had occasion here to mention many particulars; but after all it had been only a repetition of what many Authors have already said. Those who have the curiosity to be informed in these Affairs, let them consult du Tillet, Giles Corrozet, Father du Breäil, in his Theater of Antiquities at Paris, M. du Chesne in his Antiquities of Towns, and several others who have writ on the French Histo­ry, [Page 169] I will only say to the honour of those who compose this great Body, that Pepin Father of Charlemagne did first Institute it; and that it was ambulatory till the Reign of Philip the Fair, who, as Belforest reports, was the first who made it Sedentary, in quitting his own proper Palace to the Officers of Justice. To make it the more spacious, he caused to be built the greatest part of the Chambers, and the whole work was fi­nisht in the year 1313. Notwithstanding it is certain that there were in this place several great Buildings before that time, in regard several Kings made this place their usual abode. Clovis himself kept his Court here; but St. Lewis dwelt here longer than any, for finding the Situation commodious in the middle of Paris, he made here several great Works, especially the Holy Chapel, of which more by and by.

The chief remarks in this great building is, first, the great Hall, admired by the Cavalier Bernin, as one of the handsomest things in France. It is built upon the same Plan, with another very old which was burnt down in the beginning of this Age, in which the Statues of all our Kings were placed round about the Walls, as big as the Life. In this Hall the Kings did use to receive Embassa­dors, and made publick Feasts on certain days in the year, and also here they celebrated the Nup­tials of the Sons and Daughters of France. At the Marriage of Isabel of France with Richard the Second, King of England, there was in this place so great a Croud of People, that many persons were stifled. Charles the Sixth who Reign'd at that time, was himself in danger of his Life.

This Hall is all Vaulted with Freestone, with a row of Arches in the middle, supported with [Page 170] great Pillars, round which are several Shops employed by divers Tradesmen; the Dorick Or­der of Pilasters run round the Hall. At one end is a Chapel where Mass is said every day; the Procureurs (or Attorneys) to whom this Chapel belongs, have about a year since laid out 40000. Francs to beautifie it as we now see.

Above this is the Clock, according to which the Hearings or Audiences in the several Courts are regulated. At the bottom of the Dial, you may read this neat Verse made by M. de Montmort, one of the French Academicians.

SACRA THEMIS MORES UT PENDULA DIRIGIT HORAS.

Justice does guide us, as the Ballance this.

The inside round about this Chapel is adorn'd with Gilding, and painted like Marble of vari­ous Colours, which makes the place very hand­som.

You must not neglect to see the several Cham­bers where they plead. The great Chamber is on one side of the great Hall; it was built in the time of St. Lewis, who used here to give his Publick Au­diences, in which, with the kindness of a Father, and the Majesty of a great King, he endeavoured to pacifie the disorders that rise among his Subjects, or received the Embassadors sent from the Neigh­bouring Princes. Lewis the XII. repair'd it as it is at present. The Plafon composed of Culs de Lampe (Work in the Ceiling swelling down with knobs) was heret fore esteemed as an excellent piece of Work; but time has decayed a great part of that which made it esteem'd. This is the Room [Page 171] where all the Parliament assemble when the King comes hither to sit on his Tribunal of Ju­stice, or at such times when there is any great Affair for them to deliberate upon. In this place also the Dukes and Peers of France come and demand to have their Patents Register'd, which they obtain'd of the King, for the Erection of their Dignities. The other Chambers are much handsomer than this, and in some of them the Pla­fons (or Ceilings) are gilt and painted very richly. The 2d. and 3d. Chambers of Inquests, and the Chambers of Requests are the best adorn'd.

The Court of Aids.

THis is a separate Jurisdiction from the Par­liament, which fits in three distinct Cham­bers, that are beautified with costly Plafons. The face of the building, on that side next the Perron du May, is of Stone enricht with Sculpture of a good design.

The Chancery, whose coming in is in the Gallery of Prisoners, has been repaired of late years.

The next day after St. Martin, being the day on which the Parliament opens, there is here a Ceremony which strangers must not neglect to see. All the Members of that great Court are present, apparelled in Scarlet Robes on that day, and assist at a solemn Mass in the great Hall. The principal Presidents, call'd Presidens à mortier, are distinguished from the rest, by their [...]acings of Minever, or a kind of spotted Fur. When [Page 172] these last go up to Offer, they make a kind of Reverence which was used in old time, and is never practised now adays but upon this occasi­on. After the Mass is ended, they go to hear the Speeches, which are usually made by the first President, by the Procureur General, and by the Advocates General, who are no less remark­able by their Eloquence, than by their Dignities.

The Sainte Chapel.

OF all the Monuments of Piety which St. Lew­is raised, there is none more beautiful or more magnificent than this. Who making his usu­al aboad in this Palace, caused this Chapel to be erected for the conveniency of his own Devotion. In the same place where it now stands there was formerly a small Church Founded by King Hugh Capet, under the title of The Adoration of three Kings, in which Church Robert his Son did insti­tute an Order of Knights, called Knights of the Star. This Order was of great Reputation in the beginning of its Institution, and the greatest Lords accepted of the Collar. But in process of time it became so vilified, that it came to be confer'd on the Town Watch, who go about in the Night time to prevent disorders, that might happen in the Streets from Thieves and Robbers. From whence it comes, that at this day, the Captain who commands that Watch is called the Chevalier du Guet (the Knight of the Watch). This little Chapel remain'd in such Estate till the time of St. Lewis, who built the [Page 173] Structure which we now see, a building of sur­prising Delicacy. The Vaults are very high, and the Windows of it pass for the handsomest that can be seen, by reason of their bigness and almost infinite Variety of Colours, representing some particular History of the Old and New Te­staments, the Glass of which is of such thickness, that it hath resisted the injuries of time down to this day. This beautiful Work was but five years in doingand was finisht in the year 1247. In a lit­tle time after which, they brought hither the Re­liques which are kept here. These were redeem'd by that holy King out of the hands of the Veneti­ans, to whom Baldwin Emperor of Constantinople, had engaged them for a very considerable Summ of Money, which they lent him to carry on his War against the Bulgarians. This Redemption of these precious Pawns by St. Lewis, was not done without the Emperors knowledge and consent to take them, upon paying to the Venetians the Moneys for which they were engaged. They were as follows, A great piece of Wood, part of the true Cross; our Lord's Crown of Thorns, and certain drops of his precious Blood; some of the Cloths which belonged to his Infancy; another piece of the true Cross, some Blood which bled Miraculously from an Image of our Lord struck by an Infidel; one link of Iron, part of the Chain wherewith he was bound; the Napkin or Towel with which he washed his A­postles Feet; a piece of the Stone of his Sepul­cher; some of the Holy Virgins Milk; the Iron head of the Lance that pierced our Lord's side; the Purple Robe with which they Clothed him; the Spunge which they used in giving him Vinegar and Gall to Drink; a piece of the [Page 174] Shroud in which he was wrapped: Together with these things there is kept in the same Treasury, a Cross which our Ancestors used to carry with the Oriflame, which is at St. Denis, when they marched out to any Wars of Consequence, which Cross was call'd on that account The Cross of Tri­umph; and many other things beside, as Moses's Rod; the upper part of St. John Baptist's Head: all which things are enclosed in the great Shrine of Copper gilt, which you see raised upon four Pillars, supporting a little Vault behind the great Altar: But with the sight of these things one must not expect to satisfie his curio­sity, for these precious Reliques hardly ever are exposed, but when some Queen desires to see them, which happens very rarely. Upon the great Altar, in a kind of Tabernacle or Box of Wood, gilt and powder'd with Flowers-de-Lis, is the model of the Holy Chapel in little of Silver gilt, and of most excellent Workmanship, en­richt with Stones of considerable value. It is shew'd only on Festival Days. There are also in the Sacristy other things to be seen that are very rare, especially a great number of Reliquaries of Gold and Silver; a great Cross all of Gold, in which is enclosed a piece of the Wood of the true Cross, which is exposed every Friday in Lent. You may here also see the Chanters Staff, on the top of which is placed a great Agate, represent­ing St. Lewis to the Wast, holding in one hand a little Cross, and in the other our Lord's Crown of Thorns. Here are also several Books whose Co­vers are enricht with great Pearls and precious Stones.

But that which is extraordinary rare is a great antique Oriental Agate, very fine, of Figure [Page 175] almost Oval, a little bigger than an ordinary▪ Trencher-Plate; it is cut in Bas-relief, and re­presents the Apotheosis of Augustus, the Work­manship is really most admirable, by reason that the design is so contrived, that the Natural Co­lours of the Stone serve for Shadows in their proper places, where they should be according to Art, and make the same effect as if the Work of the Pencil. Monsieur de St. Avant, a Famous Antiquary, hath explain'd all the Figures in this Piece, and discovered to us very curious things, which may be read in his great Treatise of Me­dals. This fair Agate was a Present made by an Emperor of Constantinople to Charles VI. in order to obtain some Succors from him against the Turks; but this he could not have, by reason of those Troubles which the English and the Duke of Burgundy then caused in this Kingdom.

The Ornaments of the Altar in this Church are magnificent, especially those which are ex­posed on the Feast of St. Lewis, whose Head you see of Silver gilt supported by two Angels of the same materials formerly kept in the Treasury of St. Denis. As you go out you ought to observe a handsom Figure of our Lady of Pity, placed under the Organs on the left hand as you enter; 'tis the Work of the famous Germain Pilon, who lies buried in the lower Holy Chapel: this is esteemed as one of his best pieces. The Chapter of this Church is not numerous, yet are the Ca­nons places of a good Revenue and enjoy fair Pri­viledges. They have for their Superiour a Treasurer, whose place is double the Revenue of the other Canons. The Abby of St. Nicaise at Reins, worth 3000. Crowns per annum, is ap­propriated to this Chapter, with many Houses [Page 176] besides round about the Palais. In the same Court over against the Holy Chapel, is

The Chamber of Accouuts.

VVIthin the inclosure of the Palais, is also this Sovereign Jurisdiction se­parate form the Parliament. Here all the Re­ceivers of the Finances make up their Accounts. And all those who have had the management of any of the King's Money, ought here to justifie their proceedings. Here also they keep the Ar­chives, and antient Charters of the Crown; among which there are a great many which our Historians have made use of. The famous Mon­sieur du Cange, among others, hath collected from hence a great number of Memoires, to serve him in Commenting upon those antient Histo­rians. which he hath publisht. The reading of which Pieces will give us a sufficient Idea of his profound Knowledge. The principal are

The History of Constantinople under the French Emperors, Writ by Geoffry de Ville-Hardoüin, and by Philip de Mou [...]es, in the Language of their time, in Folio; ‘The History of St. Lewis, by the Sire de Join­ville.’Beside these, this Learned Author hath Pub­lished.

This last Book hath gained him a greater repu­tation than all, and that as well in Foreign Parts as in France. And it stands with reason, since this is esteemed one of the greatest Works that has been undertaken in this Age, for which the Author had need of all the time he had, even for many years, to treat of all those various Sub­jects therein contained, with so much Learning as he hath done.

I might here name many other Learned Men, who have drawn great Light for History out of the Chamber of Accounts; among others the Mes­sieurs Godefroy, who have made publick a great many of our old Historians, now lately Printed at the Royal Press in the Louvre, with excellent Commentaries at the end. Monsieur d'Herouval, Auditor of the Accounts, hath assisted them, in procuring for their sight all the helps that lay in his power, as we may perceive in their Works; they acknowledging in express terms, how ob­liging he hath been in searching out for them those things, that might be useful for their occa­sions; and one may justly say, that without him the greatest part of the best Monuments of our History had been unknown and remained buried in dust.

The buildings of the Chamber of Accounts, hath been in its time esteemed as a handsom piece of Work. It was at first raised by Lewis XII. [Page 178] whose Device is to be seen in several places of it, which is a Porcupine with these words,

In one of the Chambers are several very curious antient Pictures, representing, according to the Life, several Princes and Princesses of the Blood Royal, in the Court of Charles the V. and of some other Kings, whose Pictures we cannot elsewhere meet with. Father Menétrier thought them so curious and so singular, that he caused them to be graved, and we may meet with the Prints in some places, with Historical explicati­ons of the Persons and Blazons represented, which are writ by the said Father.

La Cour des Monnoys, or Court belonging to the Mint and Coynage, is over the Chamber of Accounts. in which there is nothing singular to be observed. Monsieur Croussin is one of the Presidents, to the praise of whom it may be said, that no Man hath laboured with more Success for the improvement of the French Tongue. He has Translated out of Greek all the Authors that have writ of the Constantinopolitan History; in the beginning of which he hath adjoin'd very Learned Prefaces, for the better understanding of those Historians, who for the most part are so obscure and intricate, that, without his helps, we should hardly be able to understand any thing in them. Never did any body before un­dertake this Work, because so very difficult; those Historians being lookt upon as half Barba­rous. But now by the assistanc eof this Learned [Page 179] Man, they may be read in French, Translated with all the Elegancy and Fidelity that can be expected, in a piece writ on purpose for the Language only. They begin with the antient Justin, and continue to Constantine Paleologus; un­der whom the Eastern Empire ended. They all make Nine Volumes in Quarto. He hath also Translated the Roman History of Xiphilinus, of Zonaras, and of Zosimus. The Ecclesiastical History of Eusebius, of Socrates, Sozomen, The­odoret, and Evagrias, in Quarto. Certain pra­ctical Books of Devotion of Cardinal Bona; and lastly the History of the Empire of the East, written by Eginard, and other Authors, which was pub­lish'd about the beginning of this year, 1684.

The Hôtel of Monsieur the Premier President, behind the Chamber of Accounts, has nothing remarkable.

The Place Dauphine.

THis Place is at the very end of the Isle of the Palais next the Pont-Neuf. It is in figure triangular; the Houses that compose it are built of Brick, with Cordons of Freestone, and all of the same fashion, They were erected in the Year 1606. four or five years after the birth of Lewis XIII. on which account they are thus named.

Of late years they have opened a way on this side to the Palais, and have raised several great Houses in the Garden belonging to the H [...]tel of the Premier President, with a long Gal­lery, [Page 180] in which many Tradesmen keep Shops, as in the other Halls belonging to the Palais. This way saves a great deal of going about, which those who came from the Pont-Neuf were for­merly forced to make.

The little Street that lyes behind is named. The Rüe de Lamoignon, because it was built in the time of the famous Premier President of that name; who did himself contribute all his en­deavors to procure the conveniency of this Passage for the good of the publick.

THE BRIDGES of PARIS.

IN regard the Bridges of Paris make a con­siderable part of the beauties of this great City, we have thought it proper to make a particular Chapter of that subject; and there­by to have the more liberty in explaining the singularities thereof.

The Bridge of Notre-Dame.

THis is the oldest and the first that was built with Stone. It was finish'd as we now see it, in the Year 1507. A Cordelier, originally of Verona, undertook the work, at the Charges [Page 181] of the Hôtel de Ville. Historians say his name was Joannes Jucundus, and that he was in great reputation for his wonderful knowledge in all sorts of Learning: They add also, That the famous Julius Scaliger was his Scholar. On one of the Arches you may read these Verses gra­ved in the Stone:

This Bridge is loaden with Houses on both sides, but they are not so high built as those on the other Bridges. These Houses are beauti­fied in the front, with great Termes A Terme is a kind of Pila­ster in the lower half, and to­wards the top fashion'd like a Man or Woman without Armes.of Men and Women, supporting on their Heads Bas­kets of Fruit; between every two are certain Medals▪ in which are represented all the Kings of France, with every one a Verse sutable to him. Time had much decay'd these things, but they were well repaired a­gainst the late Queen made her Entry, she pas­sing over here as she went to the Louvre. And of a long time it has been the Custom for the Queens to pass over this Bridge, when they make their first [Page 182] Entrys into Paris, at which time these Buildings are adorned Magnificently. It is reported that when Isabel of Bavaria made hers, it was cover'd from one end to the other, with a kind of Pavillion of blue Taffaty, powder'd with Flowers-de-Lis of Gold, they say also that by means of a wonder­ful and suprising Machin, an Angel flew down from one of the Towers of Nostre-Dame Church, and placed a Crown of Gold upon her Head. But though this Deed is recorded by an Historian of that time, it seems to me that one may reaso­nably doubt the truth of it.

In the middle of this Bridge are erected two Machins, which draw up the River Water for the use of those Quarters of the Town which are far distant. The Gate belonging to this place is of the Ionick Order, set off with certain Orna­ments which make no bad effect. The following Verses of Monsieur Santeüil's, whom we have so often mention'd, are ingraved upon black Mar­ble in Letters of Gold:

One of these Machins raises 24. Pouces of Water, and this is the Invention of Monsieur Mance; the other which raises but half so much, was invented by M. Joli. On the same Arm of the River is

The Pont au Change.

THis is the next Bridge to the Pont-Neuf. It has this name because formerly there were a great many Money-Changers, or Banckers, who inhabited the Houses on this Bridge, and made a kind of Exchange or Bource in this place. It has been also formerly called the Pont aux Oiseaux, or Bridge of Birds, because no doubt of Birdsellers here dwelling. But be­ing in the Year 1629, burnt down by an ex­traordinary Fire, it being then of Wood, it was afterwards rebuilt of Freestone, as we now see it, with so much solidity, that they have erected upon it two Rows of double Houses [Page 184] four Stories high, all of them arched with Free­stone. These Houses are inhabited by Traders, who have their Warehouses on the side next the Water, and their Shops in the forepart. This Bridge has the most Passengers of all in Paris, because of the Palais which stands at the end of it.

At one end, over a house which fronts the Bridge, you may see the King's Statue about the Age of 10. years old, Crown'd with Laurel by the Figure of a Victory. This Statue is raised on a little Pedestal; and on each side of it are the Statues of Lewis the 13th. and Anne of Austria as big as the Life, in Brass. These Statues are very well design'd, and very like.

The Key or Wharf, called Qua de Gesvers, leads from this Bridge, to the Bridge of Nostre-Dame, under cover all the way. It is supported by Vaults, whose Foundation is in the River, of a sort of Work extraordinary hardy, those who affect such things ought to go down and observe it.

At the other end of the Pont au Change, at the Corner of the Quay de Morfondus, is the Clock belonging to the Palais; the Dyal of which is adorned with certain figures of one of the most famous Sculptors of the last age. In regard it was done in the Reign of Henry III. the Arms of France and Poland stand over it, with this Verse, still legible, which that King used as his Device or Motto.

This Clock guides the sittings in the Parli­ament; and as often as there are any publick rejoycings, they ring the great Bell for some hours together.

The Pont St. Michel is also near the Palais' and opposite to the Pont au Change. It takes its name from the little Church of St. Michel, which stands within the Inclosure of the Palais; or perhaps because it leads to the Gate of that name, which once stood at the upper end of the Ruë de la Harpe, and was not long since demo­lish'd, as we have already said in the page of this Second Part. This Bridge is also built upon; the Houses are of Brick and Freestone. Formerly it was of Timber only, like those of which we have already spoken; but it being broke down by a high flood, in the beginning of the Reign of Lewis XIII. it was in a little time after re-built as we now see it.

The Petit Pont, one of the oldest Bridges of Paris, is on the same arm of the River that runs under the Pont St. Michel; the Houses on each side of it and the Little Châtelet at the end of it, hinders you from perceiving that you go over Water when you pass this way.

Within the limits of the Hôtel Dieu, are two other Bridges built: One of which is wholly belonging to that Hospital, the other is partly used for a conveniency of passage on foot to the Church of Nôtre-Dame, every one that goes o­ver that way paying a Double for passage. Both these Bridges are of Stone, and very well built.

I shall say nothing here of the Pont Marie; [Page 186] nor of the Pont de la Tournelle; I having described them in my discourse of the Isle of Nostre-Dame, as also of the little wooden Bridge that leads from the Isle du Palais to that Quarter.

The Pont-Neuf, or New Bridge.

IN fine, we are now arrived at the last Arti­cle of this Description, which cannot be better concluded than with the Pont-Neuf, from which one may discover part of the most magnificent objects of all Paris. The Pont-Neuf was begun under Henry III. who laid the first Foundation in the Year 1578. and gave the conduct of the Work to a famous Architect, named du Cer­ceau. That King being accompanied with Catha­rine de Medicis, his Mother, (who as some say did first think of this great Work) the Queen his Wife, and with all the illustrious Persons of his Court, at that time laid the first Stone, with a great Show and Ceremony, upon which Stone this Inscription is graved:

[Page 187] They began the Work with much eagerness at that end next the Great Augustins; but the Troubles of that King's Reign prevented this great Enterprise from being finish'd in his time. It remained imperfect from its first undertaking in the Year 1578, as I have said, till the Year 1604, when Henry the Great, of happy memo­ry, compleated the Work, by the means of Wil­liam Marchand.

It is observable that this Bridge is one of the most beautiful that can be seen for its length, which extends over the two arms of the Seine, which unite here into one Channel; for its breadth, which is divided into three ways, one in the midst for Coaches and great Carriages, and two on each side raised higher for those who go on foot; and lastly for its structure, which is of such solidity and of such an ordinance, that has but few equals.

Among these advantages one may also add the delicate Prospect which the Passenger has from it: A view which passes for one of the most pleasing and finest of the World; and if we may believe those who have seen foreign parts, and the report of one of the greatest Travellers in this age, he tells us, That he never observed any Prospect more magnificent, naming this for the third of those which he hath observed, to wit, That of the Port at Constantinople: that of the Port at Goa in the Indies; and this of the Pont-Neuf in Paris, which extends on one side over the Louvre which runs along the Seine, with a long row of magnificent buildings; and on the other side the Hôtel de Conti, the Colledge of the Quatre-Nations, which is very remarkable for its Dome, and for the two great square [Page 188] Pavillions which stand before it; and in fine, for many other great Houses which extend a great way, with the Cours de la Reine, which de­termines this Prospect, and Mount Valerien which appears over all; which Views altogether make a most beautiful Prospective as they ex­tend into a Landskip. I say nothing of the continual press of People passing over this Bridge, by which one may guess at the infinite number of Inhabitants in Paris.

The Statue of HENRY IV.

THis Monument stands at the middle of the Pont-Neuf, at the corner of the Isle du Palais: It was set up in the Year 1635, by Lewis XIII. to the memory of Henry IV. who is represented on Horse-back, as big as the life, all of Brass, and raised upon a Pedestal of White Marble; where the principal Actions of that great King are represented in Bas-Reliefs of the same Metal also, these are placed two and two of every side. At the four corners of the Pedestal are placed four Slaves of Brass also, treading upon certain Antique Arms, All these pieces, except the Horse, were designed and cast by one named Francheville, originally of Cam­bray; who was esteemed as one of the best Scul­ptors of his time, of whose hand you may see several other Works, much esteemed: among others, the Marble Statue representing Truth, in the Tuilleries.

[Page 189] But the Curious will not be offended perhaps if I set down here the particular History of the Horse, which was made in Italy by the famous John de Bologne, or as the Painters commonly call him, Bologness. Cosmus the Second, great Duke of Tuscany, gave it as a Present to Mary de Medicis, during her Regency, Lewis the 13th. being then under Age.

The Chevalier Pescholini, was appointed to come into France to Present this Horse, in the name of the great Duke Cosmus the Second. The care of Imbarking at Legorn was committed to him; but it met with several accidents at Sea: A horrible Tempest forced the Vessel, in which it was, with so much impetuosity against a Bank of Sand, that it was Wrackt, and all its Freight lost; however this Statue was recover'd from the Sea, with much pains and cost, and once again it was Shipt in another Vessel; this last unhappily met with Pirates on the Coast of Spain; but in fine, after all these Troubles and Labour, it arrived at Havre de Grace in the beginning of May, 1615. And on the 2d. of June following, King Lewis the 13th. laid the first Stone of the Pedestal, accompanied with Monsienr de Liancourt Governor of Paris, and several other Persons of Quality. Notwithstand­ing all the Ornaments and all the outward parts of the Work were not quite finisht, till the Year 1635.

And lastly, that Posterity may be fully in­structed of all that past, the Inscriptions on the four sides of the Pedestal were not thought suffi­cient alone; they writ another upon Vellom, which they inclosed in a Pipe of Lead, and put that into the Belly of the Horse, which they [Page 190] filled full of Cole dust, the better to preserve it from Humidity, the Inscription is as fol­lows:

[Page 193] This Inscription may suffice to make known all that past about the Brass Horse, without saying more.

The following Inscriptions are to be read about the Pedestal, they are of Letters of gold raised up upon Brass Plates, and were composed by M. Millotet, Advocate General in the Parlia­ment of Bourgogne.

On the forefront thus,

Above that this other Inscription,

The two following Inscriptions are under the Bas-reliefs, on that side next the Colledge of the Quatre-Nations, one of which represents the Bat­tel of Arques, and the other the Battel of Yvry, both gain'd by Henry the Fourth.

For the Battel of Arques.

For the Victory at Yvry.

[Page 196] His Triumphal Entry into Paris, is represented on the side next the River, and under the Sculp­ture is placed this Inscription.

For the taking of Amiens from the Spaniards.

For the taking of Montmelian in Savoy.

These two last are under the Bas-reliefs, on the side next the Samaritaine.

On the Iron Gate, that incloses all this Work, is this following Inscription, to show that this Monument was raised by the care of Lewis XIII. and that Cardinal de Richelieu caused it to be fi­nisht.

The SAMARITAINE.

AT the second Arch of the Pont-Neuf, on that side next the Louvre, was erected in the Reign of Henry III. a little House for a Pump to raise the River Water for the use of the Louvre. They have had here formerly certain handsom Machins for that purpose, but time has de­stroy'd them. This Water runs into a receiver [Page 199] near the Cloister of Saint Germain l'Auxerrois, where one may still see the remains of certain Arches on the side next the River, which are of no ill design; but all these things are now no longer in the Condition which they were once in, no more than the Clock, whose Chimes do not now go as formerly. The Statues of our Lord and the Samaritan Woman, which stand on the side of the Cistern, are but Copies of those which stood here formerly, and were the work of Germain Pillon.

The Pont-Rouge, is over against the Louvre, which tho' at present, of Timber only, it is pre­sumed that in regard to the Beauty and Majesty of the place where it stands; it will not remain long in this Condition, but that another will be built of freestone, to avoid the troubles and inconveniencies to which this is exposed every Winter by the Ice, which often breaks it down, as it has happen'd this present year, 1684. It is call'd Pont-Rouge because it was painted for­merly of a Red Colour.