CR
HONI · SOIT · QVI · MAL · Y · PENSE
DIEV · ET MON · DROIT
CHARLES REX.
CHARLES the Second, by the Grace of God King of England, Scotland, France, and Ireland, De­fender of the Faith, &c.
To all the Nobility and Gentry of Our Kingdoms of England, Scotland, and Ireland, and to all other Our Loving Subjects of what Degree and Quality soever, Greeting:

Whereas Richard Blome of London, Gentleman, hath In­formed Vs, That he hath employed his Time, and been at great Expences in preparing for the Press a Volume to be En­tituled, The Gentleman's Recreation, Treating of Hawking, Hunt­ing, &c. as by his Proposals it doth further appear. And being given to understand by the Certificate of several Persons of Honour, That the Work will be of great use, and acceptable to all Our good Subjects, and especially to the Nobility and Gentry, We have thought fit, at the humble Request of the said Richard Blome, to declare Our Royal Approbation to the said Vndertaking: And out of Our Princely desire to promote all such commendable and useful Works; and the better to embolden him to finish this Volume now in hand with, We do hereby recommend his said Endeavours unto you, to the end that by your Subscriptions you may encourage him to perfect and finish the said Book. And, Whereas we are Informed, That the said Richard Blome will be at great Charges to perfect the same, by reason of its being Illustrated with divers Sculptures, as Engines, Nets, and the like, relating to the said Sports of Hunting, Fowling, &c. We do by these Presents strictly charge and prohibit all Our Subjects, within Our Kingdoms of England and Ireland, to Reprint the said Book, in whole, or in part, within the term of Fourteen Years, without the Consent and Approbation of the said Richard Blome, his Executors or Administrators, as they will answer the contrary at their Perils, whereof the Master and Wardens of the Company of Stationers are to take Notice, that the same may be entred into their Register, and due Obedience to be yielded thereunto.

By His Majesties Command.
SUNDERLAND.
THE GENTLEMANS RECREATION by R. Blome.

THE Gentlemans Recreation.

In Two Parts.

The First being an ENCYCLOPEDY OF THE ARTS and SCIENCES.

TO WIT, An Abridgment thereof, which (in a clear Method) Treats of the DOCTRINE, and GENERAL PARTS of each ART, with ELIPTICAL TABLES, comprehending a Summary and General Division thereof; being a TRANSLATION from the most Au­thentick AUTHORS, by Persons well Experienced therein.

TO WHICH Divers SCULPTURES, and SCHEMES, are added for the better Illustration, and Demonstration thereof.

THE SECOND PART, Treats of

  • HORSMANSHIP,
  • HAWKING,
  • HUNTING,
  • FOWLING,
  • FISHING, and
  • AGRICULTURE.

WITH A Short Treatise of COCK-FIGHTING; for the BREEDING, DYETTING, ORDERING, MATCHING, and FIGHTING them.

ALL WHICH Are Collected from the most Authentick AUTHORS, and the many Gross ERRORS therein Corrected, with great ENLARGEMENTS, made by those well Experienced in the said RECREATIONS.

AND For the better Explanation thereof, great variety of useful SCULPTURES, as NETS, TRAPS, ENGINES, &c. are added for the Taking of BEASTS, FOWL, and FISH; not hitherto Published by any.

The whole Illustrated with about an Hundred Ornamental and Vseful SCULPTURES, Engraven in COPPER, relating to the several SUBJECTS.

LONDON, Printed by S. ROYCROFT, for RICHARD BLOME, Dwelling at the Upper End of Dutchy-Lane, near Somerset-House in the Strand, MDCLXXXVI.

TO The most August JAMES THE SECOND, By the Grace of GOD KING of England, Scotland, France, and Ireland, Defender of the Faith, &c.

May it please your Sacred Majesty,

HAVING by the Encouragement of His late MAJESTY, and some Hundreds of the NOBILITY and GEN­TRY, Compleated a Work, which for divers Years past hath been my utmost Care and Endeavour, (with no small Expence unto me) to render it Acceptable to the most Ingenious; as only designed for the Nobility and Gentry.

[Page] And well knowing how much Your MAJESTY is affected to great Vndertakings, conducing to the Publick Good, and Honour of Your Nation; And this (which with­out Arrogance) being Inferior to none, I have therefore (with the more Confidence) taken upon me the Boldness to make this my Humble Address to Your most Gracious MAJESTY, and to Implore Your favourable Acceptance of these my Endeavours; which thus Illustrated by Your Name, will give so much the greater Lustre to the Work it self, and Honour to the Publisher thereof, who is,

Dread Sovereign,
YOUR MAJESTIES Most Obedient and Loyal Subject and Servant, RICHARD BLOME.
HONI : SOIT : QVI : MAL : Y : PENSE
DIEU ET MON DROIT
Benefactors to this Work

His most Sacred Majestie, Iames the Second King of England Scotland, France, and Ireland, Defendor of the Faith &c.a

1 His Royall Highness George Prince of Den­mark &c.a

2 The Rt. Honourable George Lord Iefferies, Baron of Wemm Lord Chancellor of Eng­land &c.a

3 The Rt. Honble. Laurell Earle of Rochester, Viscount [...] of Kenil [...]orth, & Baron of Wott [...]n▪ Basset, [...] Treasurer of England, and Kt. of the most [...] order of the Garter &c.a

4 The most noble Henry Duke of Norfolk Earle Marshall of England, Earle of Arundell Warren, Surrey Norfolk & Norwich, Baron Howard Mowb [...] [...] Leivtenant of y Counties of Norfolk Surrey & [...] Governor of [...] &c.a

5 The Right Noble Charles Seymour, Duke of Somerset, Marquess and Earle of Hertford Viscount Beauchamp & [...] Seymore Kt. of ye noble order of y [...]arter &c.a

6 The R. Noble Christopher Duke of Albemarle Earle of Torington Baron Monck of Pother [...]. champ and Toys Knight of the most noble order of the Garter &c.a

7 The Rt Noble Henry Duke of Beaufort, Marquess & Earle of Worcester Baron. Herbert of [...]

8 The Rt Noble [...] Earle of [...] of Petersh [...] in England, Duke [...] Viscount Maitland, Baron of [...]

9 The Rt. Honble. The Herbert Earle of [...] and Montgomery, Baron Herbert of Shu [...]land Cardiff. Ross of [...]dale, Pa [...], Marmion, and [...] of the Lordships of [...] New [...]rt and [...]. & L. Leivtenant of Wiltshire &c.a

10 The Rt. Honble. Iohn Egerton Earle of Bridgwater, Viscount Brackley [...] of Elfmer [...]. [...] Leivtenant of y County of Bucks, and one of the [...] of his [...] most Honble. Privy Councell &c.a

11 The Rt. Honble. Henry [...], Earle of Peterborow, Baron of Tur­vey. Ld. Leivtenant of Northampton shire Groom of his M [...].••• stool, and one of the Lords of his M••• most Honourable Privy Councell.

12 The Right Honourable Rober [...] Spencer Earle of Sunderland Baron, Spencer of Wormloi­on, his Majesties princi­pall Secretary of State &ca.

13 The Rt. Honble. [...] Earle of Book, [...]

14 The Right Honble. Robert Bruce, Earle of Alisbury and Elgin, Viscount Bruce of Ampthill, [...] Bruce of [...] and [...], Hereditary high Stewardes [...] Honour of Ampthill [...] Levte­nant [...]

15 The Rt. Honble. [...] Earle of [...] Viscount Sondes Lord Duras Baron of Hondenly and Throw [...] Cap­tain of his Maties. Troop of [...] Leivtenant Generall of his [...] Forces. [...] of y Garter and one y Lords of his [...] most Honble Privy Councell.

16 The Right Honourable William Herbert [...] Earle and Baron of [...] &c.a

17 The Rt. Honble. George Berkeley Ld. Berkeley. Mawbray Segravo and Bruce, Baron of Barkeley Castle, Earle of Berkeley, & one of the Lords of his [...] most Honourable Privy Councell &ca.

18 The Rt. Honble. George [...] Privy Councell.

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19 The Right Honourable Edw. Henry Lee, Earl of Litchfield▪ Viscount Quarenton, and Baron Spilsbury &ca.

20 ye Right Honourable. Charles Beauclaire, Baron of Heddington, and [...] Earle of Burford &c.a

21 The Right Honourable. Francis Lord Holles of Ifield in Sussex &c.a

22 The Right Honourable Sr. Edward Dering of Surren­den Dering in Kent. Bar. one of the Lords Comissioner of his Ma••. Treasury &c.

23 Sr. Iohn Rerers by of Thri­bergh in the West Rideing of York shire Bor. Gover­nour of ye City of york & Burtington.

24 Sr. Robert Iason of Broad somerford in Wiltshire Baronet.

25 Sr. Iohn Osborn of Chicksands in the Country of Bedford Baronet.

26 Sr. Thomas Mompesson of Bathampton in Wilt­shire Knight▪

27 Coll: Robert Werden of Ches­ter Comptroler to his Roy all Highness Iames Duke of York, and first Leivtenan ▪ and Major of his Guards.

28 The Right Honourable Roger Palmer, Earl of Castlemaine▪ & Bar [...]n of Lim­berick in the Kingdom of Ireland &c.a

29 Thomas Stringer of [...] Church nea [...] Salisbur [...] in [...]

30 Edward Clarke of Chipl [...]r in Somersetshire Esqr.

31 Sr. Th [...]mas Dereham K. des [...] ­ded of ye antient family of y Dere­h [...] of Dercha [...] Norfolk▪ En­voy fro [...] late [...] [...]-Charles [...] K Iames [...] to y [...] of Tuscany.

32 Thomas Davies of [...]rising▪ Temple in Essex Esqr. [...] of Sr. T [...]e Davies of Lon­don K. dec [...]ased, late Lord [...]ajor thereof. [...] 1677

33 Captaine Thomas Lucy of Charlcot in Warwickshire Esqr.

34 Henry Drax of Sibsy in Lincoln shire, and of the Island of Bar­bados in America Esqr.

35 Sr. Iohn Hobart of Blickling in Norfulk Baronet.

36 Sr. Thomas Hare of Stow Bardolph in Norfolk Baronet.

37 Gabriel Armiger of North Creak in Nor­folk, and of the Inner Temple London Esqr.

38 Sr. William Drake of Amersham in the County of Buck Kt.

39 Sr. Thomas Fitch of Eltham & Meunt. Mascall in Kent Knight & Baronet

40 The Rt. Honble. Iohn Vis. Massereen Baron of Loughneath in Ireland, Governor of the County of Londonderry. and Town of Colerain, [...]one of the Lords of his Ma••• most Honble pri [...]y [...] [...]

41 The Right Honourable William Howard [...] Baron of Es [...]rick in York-shire &c.a.

42 Sr. Robert Clayton of the City of Londen kt ▪ and Alderman and Lord Mayor thereof Anno 1681.

43 Sr. William Courtenay of Powderham Castle in Devonshire Baronet.

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44 ye Right Honourable Charles Lord Viscount Mordaunt, of Areland, and Baron of Rygate.

45 Sr. Gervas Elw [...]s of Stoke Juxta Clare, in Suffolk Baronet▪

46 Tho: Broughton of Brough­ton in Stafford Shire Esqr. Son and heyr of S. Brian Broughton Kt. and Bart.

47 The Rt. Honble [...]. Carro [...] Sleford▪ in Lincoln shire Kt. & Bar. Chanceller of y County Palatine of Lancastei, & one of his [...]. most [...] [...]rivy Councell &ca.

48 The Right Honourable Digby Gerard, Baron of Gerards. Bromley &ca.

49 The Rt. Noble Iames late Duke of Monmouth, & [...] Earle of Doncaster and Dalkeith, Baron of As [...]ale, Tendale, & Whitehes [...]er &ca.

50 The Right Honourable Charles Earle of Wilt­shire, Son and heyre to the Rt. Noble Charles Marquess of Winchester▪

51 The Honble. Henry Co­ventry Esqr. Son and heyr of the Rt ▪ Honble. Th [...] Ld. Coventry, Ld. Keeper of ye Great Seale of [...]land▪

52 Sr. Iohn Bowyer of Knipersly in Stafford shire Baronet.

53 Sr. Thomas Bellot of Moreton in Ch [...] ­shire Baronet.

54 Sr. Walter Bagot of Blithfield in Stafford shire Baronet.

55 Sr ▪ Iohn Elwes of Grove house, in the Parish of Fulham in Midd [...]. Knight.

56 The Honble. Robert Boyle of Staulbridge in Do [...]set shire Esqr ▪ Bro: to the Right Honourable Ric. Earle of Burlington.

57 Sr ▪ Godfrey Copley of Sprodbrough in the West rideing of York shire Baronet▪

58 The Rt. Honble Francis Lord Brudenell, Son & heyr to the Rt. Honble. Rob: Earle of Cardigan.

59 The Right Honourable Iohn Lord Crew, Ba [...]on of Stean in Northampton shire.

60 Colonel Sy [...]us Titus of Bushy in Hartford shire Esqr.

61 Caleb Banks of the Fryers in A [...]lesford in Kent▪ Esqr. eldest Son to Sr. Iohn Banks Baronet.

62 Sr. Iushnian Isham of Lamport, in North­arntonshire Baronet.

63 The Right Honourable Iohn Lord Haughton▪ Eldest▪ Son to the Rt ▪ Honble ▪ Gilbert Earle of Clare

64 The Right Honble. Richard Earle of Ranelagh &c.a

65 Gervas Pierreponts of Tonge Castle in Shropshire Esqr.

66 Sr. Halswell Tynte, of Halfwell in the Parish of Goat hurst, in Somer­setshire Baronet.

67 Thomas Sheridan of Cavan in the County of Cavan in the Pro­vince of Ulster in Ire­land. Esqr.

68 Thomas Iolliffe of Coften hall in Wor­cester shire Esqr.

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69 The Honble. Iames Earle of Perth Lord Drummond and Stobhall, Stewart of Struthern and Baluhidder by In­heritance: Lord Iustice Generall of ye Kingdom of Scotland, one of ye Ex­traordinary Lords of ye Session, & one of his [...] most Honble pr [...]y Councell in ye Kingdom.

70 The Right Honourable Iohn Drummond, by Right of Mariage Baron of Lundin Lord Treasurer Dep [...]te, and one of his Majesties most Honble. pr [...]y Councell in Scotland &c.a

71 The Right Honourable Alex­ander Earle of Morray Lord Doun and Abernethe & Ld ▪ High Comissioner of Scotland.

72 The Right Honourable Thomas Lord Bruce eldest▪ son to the Right Honble ▪ Robert Earle of Aylesbury and Elgin &c.a

73 The Right Honourable Charles Henry Lord Kirkho [...]m Baron Wotton of Wotton in Kent, and Earle of Bellomont in Ire­land &c.a

74 The Right Honourable Thomas Savage Earle Rivers, Viscount Colchester and Rock Savage, Lord Darcy and Baron of Chich.

75 Sr. Anthony Aucher of Bishopsbourn in Kent Kt. and Baronet.

76 Sr. Thomas Robinson of Kenwell hall in Suffolk Bart, cheif Prothonotary of his Majesties Court of Com̄on Please.

77 The Honble. Charles Heward of Grastock in Cumberland Esqr. brother to his Grace Henry now Duke of Nor­folk &c.a Anno 1683.

78 George Rodeney Bridges of Keynsham in Somerset­shire Esqr. Groom of the Bed chamber to his Ma••. K. Ch ye 2d

79 Samuel Vincent of Buckenham house in Norfolk Esqr.

80 The Rt. Honble. Ric. Ld. Maitland Ld ▪ Iustice Clarke of ye Kingdome of Scotland. one of ye Lords of his [...]. privy Councell for that Kingdome, and eldest son to ye Right Honourable Charles Earle of Lauderdale &c.a

81 Tobias Eden of the In­ner Temple London Esqr.

82 Charles Morley of Droxford in Hantshire Esqr, one of the Masters of Requests to his Ma••. K. Charles the 2d.

83 Sr. Henry Calverley of Ery holme in York­shire Kt.

84 Sr. Walter Clarges of St. Martins in the fields in Middsx Bart.

85 The Right Honoura­ble Robert Leake, Earle of Scarsdale, and Baron Deyncourt &c.a

86 Gilbert Gerard Cossein of Brafferton hall in the North Rideing of York­shire Esqr.

87 Richard Stratford of Harv­liny and Nether Getting in Glocestershire Gent descend­ed from ye antient family of the Stratfords of Farmcoat ye sd Counte▪

88 Sr. Iohn Chicheley of St. Giles in the Fields in Middsx Kt.

89 Sr. Humfrey▪ Doleman of Shaw in Berk­shire Kt.

90 Sr. Daniel Fleming of Rydall hall in Westmoreland Kt.

91 Sr. Thomas Slingsby of Skriven in the West Rideing of Yorkshire Bart.

92 Nevinson Fox of Strad­brook in Suffolk Esqr.

93 Patrick Trant of Southampton Fields in the Parish of St. Giles in Midd, Esqr.

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94 The Rt. Honble ▪ Hencage Fu [...]ch, Earle of Winchel [...]ey, Viscount Maidston Baron Fi [...]. Herber [...] of Eastwell Lord of ye Royall Manner of W [...]e & Lord Leuitenant of ye County of Rent &c.a

95 Collonell Edward Griffin of Dingley in Northamptonshire Treasurer of the Chamber to his Ma••. &c.a

96 The Rt. Honble. Charles Sarkvile, Earle of Dorset & Middsex Baron▪ Buckhurst & [...]runfeild, one of ye Gentleman of his Ma•• Bedcham­ber & Lord Leuitenant of Sussex▪

97 Georg Vernon of Sudbr [...] in Derbyshir, & of Has [...]ington in Cheshire Esq ▪ descended of ye. Vernons who were antiently Barons of Shib brook in Cheshire.

98 The Rt. Honble. [...] Viscount [...]. Baron [...] of his [...] of the [...]ords of his [...] most Hoble. privy Councell.

99 S. Robert Jenkinson of Walcot in Oxford shire Baronet.

100 The Rt. Honble. Antony Earle of Shastesbury▪ Baron Ashly of Wimbou [...]ne S. Giles, & Ld ▪ Cooper of Pawlet.

101 Sr ▪ William Glynn of Bisister in Oxford­shire Baronet.

102 The Rt. Honble ▪ Richar [...] Grayh [...]m, Visount Preston, & Lord Gray­ham of Eske &c.a

103 Sr ▪ Charles Wheler of Burbury in Warwick shire Baronet.

104 The Rt. Honble. Clan [...] Hamilton Earle of Abercorne &c.a

105 Sr ▪ Iames [...] of Cottesbrook in Northamptonshire Kt. & Ba [...] t. Sr. William [...] of Walgr [...]e in the Said County Kt: & Sr. Steph [...]n Langham of London K▪ Son [...]s of Sr: Iohn Langham▪ [...] deceast.

106 The Rt. Honoble ▪ Iohn Fitz Gerard Earle of Kilde [...], [...] Earl of ye Kingdom of Ireland &c.a

107 Sr. Thomas Travell of S. Martins in the fields in Middle sex▪ Kt.

108 The Rt: Honble: Charles Lord Cheyne, Viscount of New hauen in Scot­land &c.a

109 Iohn Hall of [...] Bradford in [...] Wiltshire Esq.

110 The Rt: Honble. Simon Lord Digby, Baron of G [...]ashill in Ireland. &c.a

111 Martin Baldwin of Castle Geshell in Kings County in Ireland Esq:

112 The Rt. Honble. Williams Lord Pugett Baron of Beaudefert in ye County of Stafford. &c.a

113 Sr: Iohn Williams of [...] house in ye [...] of Fulham in Midelsex. [...] [...]on & hey [...]f Sr. Thomas Williams of Elh [...] County in Kent K. & Baronet.

114 The Rt: Honble: Charles Lord Herbert Marqu [...]s and Earle of Woorcester, eldest son to his Gra [...]e Henry Duke of Beaufort &c.a

115 Sr. Iohn Bellew of [...] town in the County of Meath in Ireland Kt

116 The Honble. Sr. Henry Goodrick of Ribston Park in Yorkshire K. & Baronet, his Ma•• E [...]nvoy extrao [...]dinary to ye King of Spanie Anno Dom: 1682/3

117 Sr: Robert Dashwood of Norbrook, & Wickh [...] in Oxfordshir Kt.

118 The Rt. Honble ▪ Frances [...] Earle, Viscount & Baron o [...] L [...]ngford in ye Kingdom [...] of Ireland & one of ye L ▪ of his Ma•• [...] Honble. privy Councell [...] for ye said Kingdom &c.

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119 The Rt: Noble George Fitz [...] Roy; Duke & Earle of Northumberland, Vis­count Falmouth, Baron of Pontefract & Kt: of Noble order of ye Garter K▪

120 Sr. Will. Dutton Colt▪ Kt. son of George Colt of Colt-hall in Suffolk Esq.

121 The Rt. Honble ▪ Aubrey Vere, Earle of Oxford▪ Baron Bulbeck Sandford & [...] of ye [...], & one of his▪ [...] most Hon privy Councell &c.a

122 Richard Gee of Beuer­ley in Yorkshire Esq.

123 The Rt. Hon•bl•: Charles Lord Robert [...], Earle of Rednor, Viscount Bodmyn, & Baron of Truro &c.a

124 The Honble: Francis Roberts Esq ▪ third son to ye Rt. Honble: John Late Earle of Rad­no [...]

125 The Rt. Honble ▪ William Earle of Derb [...], Lord Stanley & Ld [...] of Lancashire, & Cheshire & Admirall of ye [...] belonging Chamberlaine of Chester, & Ld. of Manas of y I [...]le &c.

126 Roger Pope of Wool­staston in Shropshire Esq.

127 The Rt. Honble: Iohn Earl Bristol, Baron Digby of Sherborne &c.a

128 William Cutts of Arks dale in Essex, & of Childerley in Cambridg­shire Esq.

129 The Rt. Honble ▪ Charles Montag [...]e Earle of Man­chester, Viscount Mancle­vill, Baron Kimbolton, &▪

130 The Egerton of Broxton in Cheshire Esqr ▪ eldest son of S. Philip Egerton of Ege [...]ton▪ & Outon in ye Said County Kt.

131 The Rt. Honble: William Earle of Devonshire Baron C [...]ven­dish of Hardwick, & Lord Leuitenant of Darbyshire &c.a

132 Sr ▪ Thomas Samvell of Vpton, & Gayton [...] the County of Northamp­ton Baronet.

133 The Rt: Honble: Edward [...] Howard Earle of [...], Viscount [...]

134 The Honble: Iohn Noel of Luf­ingham in Rutlandshire Esq. 3•• ▪ son to ye Rt. Honble: Baptist Noel, Viscount Comden.

135 The Rt. Honble William Pierrepent, Earle of Kings­ton upon [...]all, Viscount [...]eloark upon Trent [...] &c.a

136 The Rt. Honble. Sr. Thomas Chicheley of Wimpley in Cambrigshir Kt. [...] Chan [...]elor of ye Dutchy.

137 The Rt. Honble: Thomas Bellasi [...], Viscount Fo [...]comber Lord Leuitenant of ye north [...]iding of Yorck [...]shire, & one of y ▪ Lords of his Ma•• ▪ most Honble ▪ privy Councell, &c.a

138 Edward Montagu of Horton in the County of Northamp­ton Esqr.

139 The Rt: Honble: Thomas Leanard Earle of Sussex & Lord Dacres of [...] Gilesland &c.a.

140 Sr. Iohn Corbet of Stoke upon Teane, and Adderley in Shropshire Bar.

141 The Rt. Honble: George Lord Nevill▪ Baron of Bergev [...]nny &c.a

142 Sr. Iohn Shelley of Michelgrove in Sussex Baronet.

143 The Rt: Honourable Charles Lord Corn­wallis, Baron of Eye in Sussex▪ &c.a

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144 The Honble: Arthur Herbert Esq: one of his Ma•••: Comissioners of the Admiralty. &ca:

145 The Rt: Honourable Iohn Lord Belasis, Baron of Worlaby in Lincolnshire. &ca.

146 Will: Duncombe of Batlesdenbury in Bedfordshir Esq son of y R. Honbl•: Sr. Iohn Duncombe of the S: place Kt. Chancellor, & vnder Treasurer of ye Exchequer, & one of his [...]: most Honble: Privy Councell.

147 The Rt. Honble: William O Brien, Earle & Baron of Insiquin, & Baron of Burren in Ireland, & one of ye Lords of his Ma•••. most Honble: privy Councell for that Kingdome

148 Sr: Thomas Gros [...]not of Eaton in Cheshire Baronet.

149 The Rt. Honble: Robert Lord Kingston, Baron of Kingston, Governour of ye Coun [...]es of Ros­comen, Slygoe, May [...] of ye fort of Ballymo [...] in y County of Gal­way in Ireland.

150 Sr: John Brownlon of Belton: in Lincolnshire Buronet

151 The Right: Honble: Will: Lord Biron Baron of Rachdale in Lanca­shire

152 Alan Bellingham of Leaben in Westmore land Esq:

153 Iohn Basset of Heanton-Punchardon in Devonshire: Esq.

154 Henry Wallop of Far [...]gh-wallop in Hunt-shire Esq:

155 Sr: Thomas Barnardiston of Kedison in Suffolk Bart. Sr: San: Barnardiston of Brightwell hall in ye S. County Bart.

156 Sr: Phillip Carteret of Sr: Oüen in ye Island of Iarsey Baronet

157 William Cheyne Esq: Son and heyre to ye Rt. Honble: Charles Lord Cheyne Viscount Newhauen in Scotland.

158 Simon Luttrell of [...]ttrest in ye County of Dubli [...] in Ireland Esq:

159 Sr. Henry Marwood of little Busby in Yorke­shire Baronet.

160 Sr: Thomas Blud: worth of Leutherhead in Surrey Kt.

161 Sr Edward Hungerford of farley Castle in Ham­shire Kt: of y Bath:

162 William Venably of Goulbu [...] in C [...]eshire. Esq:

163 Andrew Lant of Thorp vnderwood in Northampton shire Esq:

164 Richard Cheyney of Hani [...]erton in ye Par­ish of Hackney in Midd [...] Esq

165 Edmund Turnor of Sr: Pauls Covint Gar­den in Middlesex. Esq

166 Arthur Sh [...]en Esq: Son and heyr of Sr. Iames shaen of shyne in Surrey Kt: and Barone

167 Iohn Crew Offley of Crew Hall in Cheshir. Esq:

168 William Stych of Newbury in ye Parish of Barkin in Essex Esq

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169 The Right Honourble Iames Lord Bertie, Earle of [...] Baron horris of Rycot, Lord Leiutenant of Oxford shire &c

170. Sr. Arthur Rawdon [...] of Rawdon hall in yorkeshire Baronet.

171 the Right Honourable [...] E [...]le of Salisbury [...] Baron [...] of [...]

172 Sr. Richar. Myddelton of Chirk Castle in Denbighshire Baronet

173 The Rt Honble Richard Butler Baron of [...] in England, Earle of [...] & Baron of [...] in Ireland [...] Iames [...] Duke of [...] Privy [...]

174 George Hadley of East Barnet in Hartfordshire Esq.

175 Sr Theophelus Oglethorp Kt Collonell of the Martine or old Holland Regiment.

176 Samuel Rolle of Heanton-Sachfield in DevonShire Esq.

177 the Right Honourable Iohn Earle of Exeter Baron of Burleigh &ca

178 Sr Iohn Hewett of Warsley in Huntington-Shire Baronet.

179 the Honouralb S Richard Wenman of [...] in Oxfordshire Baronet Created Baron & Viscount we [...] of Ireland after ye death of ye Rt Honble Phillip Viscount W [...]man

180 Sr Edmund Fettiplace of Swinbrook in Oxford Shire Baronet.

181 Sr. Demus Hampson of Taplow in Bucking [...]t Ho [...]t shire Baronet.

182 Sr. Iames Butler of Lincolns [...] in Midds Kt Steward of his Ma•••. Palace & Marshal [...]

183 Sr Henry Pickering of Whaddon in Cambridg shire Baronet.

184 Iohn Rossington of St. Martins in the Fields in Middlesex Gent.

185 Robert Rossington of West Shean in the County of Surrey Gent.

186 Sr. Iohn Brogr [...] of Hamell in Hartford shire Baronet.

187 the Honble. Thomas Fairfo [...] Esq eldest Son of ye Rt. Honoble. Henry Lord Fairfex of Denton in yorkshire

188 Thomas Fa [...]ka [...] of Farnley in ye County of yorke Esq

189 Sr. George Downing of Ganby. and East Hatley in Cambridgshire Baronet

190 Sr. William Portn [...] of Orchard in Somersetshire Kt of ye bath. & Baronet

191 Thomas Felton of Playford in Suffolk Esqr.

192 Erasmus Smith alias Here of Sr. Iones in Middlesex Esq. son of Sr. Roger. Smith of [...] in L [...]escershirt Kt [...]

193 Sr [...] of Woberton in Buckingham shir Baronet

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194 The Rt. Honble: William [...] Earle of Bedford, Baron R [...]s [...]ell of [...], & Thorn [...]ough, & Kt. of ye not Noble Order of ye Garter &ca.

195 Sr. Richard Bacon of Redgraue in Suffolk Bart:

196 The Rt: Honble. Kenneth M' Kenzie Earle of Seafort &ca.

197 S. Iohn Baber of ye Parish of S. Pauls Count Garden in Midelesex Kt. descended of ye antient family of ye Babers of Somersetshir one of his [...] & [...] of ye peace for Midelesex.

198 The Rt: Honble: Archibald Lord Lorne, eldest son of ye Rt. Honble: Archibald Earle of Argyll, Ld: Kinbyre, Campbell and Lorne. Anno 1682

199 Sr. Philip Constable of Everingham in Yorkshire Baronet.

200 The Rt: Honble: Iohn Lord Benet Baron of Ossulston &ca.

201 William Bridgman Esq. one of ye Clerks of his Mo••: most Honourable privy Councell.

202 Sr: Richard Brown of Debden hall in Essex Ba••: Brigadeer, & eldest Leivtenant of Horse in ye second Troop of his Ma••. [...]ef. Guard.

203 Collonell Robert Feilding of Feilding Hall in Warwickshire

204 Sr: Humfrey Foster of Alder maston in Berkshire Baronet.

205 Iohn Rosseter of Somer by in Lincolnshire Esq

206 Henry Slingsby of Kippax in Yorkshire Esq: Master of his Ma. Mint.

207 Sr. Peter Rich of ye Citty of Londone Kt. and [...] de [...]manand Chamberlaine of ye sd. Citty

208 Collonell Samuel Rolle of Heanton sacth field in Devo [...] shire.

209 Iohn [...]enables of Agdon in Cheshire Esqr.

210 Sr: Iohn Thorold of Marsson in ye. County of Lincolne Baronet

211 William Forester of Wal [...]in [...]irst, and D [...]thill in Shrop-Shire Esq.

212 Robert Monckton of Cavill in ye East Riding of York-Shire Esq.

213 Henry Hawley of Branford in ye Cou [...] of Middlesex Esq

214 Thomas W [...]ndham of Tale in Devonshire Esq son of Sr. Edmund Wind­ham Kt. Marshall of his Ma•••. Household deceased

215 Iohn Speccott of Penh [...]le in ye County of Cornwall Esqr.

216 William H [...]wer Esq: one of the Comissioners of his Mo•• Navy, & Trea­surer for ye aff [...]rs of his M [...] ••. late Ga [...]ryson of Tonger

217 Iohn Tanner of Court in the County of Cornwall Esq.

218 Rowland L [...]tton of [...] in Hertfordshire [...] son of Sr. Ro [...]land Lytt [...]n of K [...]hworth [...]n the [...] County Kt: deceased

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219 David Ienkins of Hensoll in the County of Glamorgan Esqr.

220 Sr Iohn Fowell of Fort [...]ellscombe in the Coun­ty of Devon Baron [...] t

221 The Morgan of Tredegorr & Machen in the County of Monmouth Esqr.

222 Sr. William Pennigton of Muncoster in the County of Cumberland Baronet.

223 Francis Annesley of Throganty in the County of York Esqr.

224 The Right Honourable Henry Lord De Grey of Ruthin &.

225 Richard Hawkings of Marshamin Berks [...] [...] of Middle Aston in Oxfordsh [...]re Esqr.

226 Thilliam Colegrave of Can hall in the County of Essex Esqr.

227 The Right Honble: Th [...]: Grey▪ Earle of Stamford, Ld Ferrers of Grooby, Banevill, &•• Harrin­ton.

228 The Bowdler of Fe­ [...]ersham, in the County of Kent. Gent.

229 Sr: Iohn Bolles of S. campton in the County of Lincoln Bar.

[figure]

Sr. Ralph Dutton of Shevbo [...] in ye ▪ County of Glocester Baronet

Nicholas Barbon of London M. D one of ye ▪ Colledg of Phisitians of ye. Saide Citty.

[figure]

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[figure]

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AN ENCYCLOPEDY of ye Arts & Sciences.

To his Sacred Ma [...]ty

JAMES II.

By ye Grace of God King of England, Scotland, France, & Ireland, Defender of ye Faith &

This Plate in all Humility is Consecrated By Richd Blome.

To Philosophy may be attributed the Liberall Arts, which are either

Sapientia est no [...]e divina & [...] & h [...]um▪ tawcas.

To the Right Honorable Charles Earle of Wilt­shire▪ Son and heyre to ye Rt. noble Charles Ma [...]uess of Win­chester.

This Plate is hum­bly dedicated by Richard Blome.

Vox Literata, et articulata, clebito Modo pronuntiata.

THE PREFACE TO THE READER.

MANY Ages since, and even from all Antiquity, the Liberal Arts have by Just Right been esteemed most Laudable and Profitable, especially to the Nobility and Gentry, in all things that concern Human Life; there being nothing more Noble and Excellent than Instruction, the true Imbelishment of the Mind, and Proof of a truly Accomplish'd Spirit. And this is no other than what a great Philosopher prudently alledged, viz. That Human Life without Learning, was but the Image of Death. To which purpose the Poet, Ovid, in his first Book of his Pontus, speaks as followeth,

Adde, quod ingenuas didicisse fideliter Artes,
Emollit mores, nec sinit esse feros.

By Knowledge Men aspire to the height of Vertue and Wisdom, and which is more, to the understanding of Divine things. By Learning we are made worthy the Favour of Kings, and Princes; and Literature not only celebrates and renders us Praise-worthy in our Life, but makes our Renown survive to all Posterity. The Study of the ARTS and SCIENCES entertains Youth, rejoyceth Old Age; adorns Prosperity, and gives Refuge and Consolation to Adversity. 'Tis a Pleasure in the Closet, a Companion in the Field, and a Fellow-Traveller in a Journey.

Since therefore so great Advantages and Emoluments are proposed to Persons studious in Learning; how laudable would it be for the Nobility and Gentry to employ their chief Study therein.

[Page] Are we covetous of Riches? Learning brought vast Riches to Aristotle, Cicero, Virgil, Horace, Seneca, and divers others. Hunt we after Honour? Learning hath promoted innumerable many Persons to high Dignities. Desire we Recrea­tion? How many Pleasures doth Learning afford. Seek we Glory and Renown? Learning sooner purchases Immortal Praise, than the desperate Atchievments of War. Are we for Health, Activity, and Strength of Body? 'Tis Learning that shews us how to gain and preserve them.

Now seeing it is so manifest, that Nature hath nothing more advantagious, more de­lightful and excellent than the Arts and Sciences, which are by the Industrious so easily attained unto, I have attempted (for the Publick Good) the Printing an ENCY­CLOPEDY of the Arts and Sciences in our Native Tongue, to wit, an Abridgment thereof.

The usual Division of the Arts by the Ancients, were into Seven Liberal, and as many Servile.

The Liberal were Grammar, Logick, Rhetorick, Musick, Arithmetick, Geometry, and Astronomy; all which are briefly comprehended, together with their several Subjects contained in this Distick.

Gram. loquitur, Dia. vera docet, Rhet. verba colorat,
Mus. canit, Ar. numerat, Geo. ponderat, Ast. colit Astra.

The Seven Servile Arts were known by their several Professors, viz. the Agriculture, the Huntsman, the Military Person, the Navigator, the Chirurgeon, the Weaver, and that sort of Artificer which the Latins called Faber, who according to the Material he Worked in wa [...] denominated; as Faber Lignarius, the Carpenter; Faber Ferranus, the Smith, and the like. And both the Liberal and Servile are all enumerated together in another, yet more compendious and comprehensive Distick.

Lingua Tropus Ratio, Numerus, Tonus Angulus Astram,
Rus, Nemus, Arma, Ratis vulnera, lana Faber.

But in regard this Division is not large enough to comprehend all the Parts of Knowledge reduceable to a Systematical Method, 'tis thought necessary to widen the said Division into a more Ample Sphaere, which might be divided into Moral, Prudential, Mathe­matical, Liberal and Mechanical Arts. But lest by this Distinction many of them should in­terfere one upon the other, it is judged most proper, and sufficiently Methodical to treat of them apart, and that according to the Method as they are encircled about the first and general Table of the Work.

Nor will it be deemed unnecessary if I here give you a Summary of the said Work.

PHILOSOPHY, according to the general Acceptation, is the Study of Wisdom, comprehending the Knowledge of all Things both Human and Divine, as well as of the Causes whence they are derived, especially as it is now found Methodized in the several Systems of the Arts and Sciences.

Now Science is nothing but a comprehension of Definitions, Divisions, and Examples, sutable to the Natural use, by which the said Science, and all its Parts and Parcels, are Illustrated, and Explained.

Some of the said Liberal Arts are General, and some Special.

Those are called General, and Common, which have reference to all things in General, and are aptly extended through all the Parts of Knowledge, or Wisdom; for Men may either speak Purely and Simply, or Ornate and Elegant, and Dispute of all things. Thus they are the Instruments of Philosophy, and are thence properly called Organical, for that they appertain totally to Speech and Reason; and therefore they are likewise called by many Logical.

Some of the General Arts are concerned in Speech, and others in Reason.

[Page] Of the First, some in pure and congruous Speech, as Grammar; or others in Or­nate and Eloquent Discourse, and either Free and in Prose, as RHETORICK and ORATORY; or tyed and reduced to certain Measures, as POETRY. That which hath regard to Reason, is LOGICK.

The Special, or Particular Arts (which are also part of Philosophy) are distinguished and differenced by their Subjects, that is to say, those relating to the Nature of Things, or to Life and good Manners.

Nature is Corporeal, or Incorporeal. Now the Mathematicks, and Natural Phi­losophy, Treats of the Corporeal Nature of all Things; for the Mathematicks Con­template and consider the Quantities of things, and Philosophy the Quali­ties.

Quantity is either of Number, about which ARITHMETICK is im­ployed: Or Magnitude and Measure, whereof GEOMETRY Treats, on which depend several Parts or Branches of the Mathematicks; amongst which are SURVEY­ING, and GAUGING.

The Sense of Seeing Creates OPTICKS, DIOPTRICKS, CATOP­TRICKS, PERSPECTIVE, and POURTRAITURE, which compre­hends DRAWING, PAINTING, GRAVING, and ETCHING. And the Sense of Hearing is busied about MUSICK.

The Natural Body of Philosophy is either Simple, or Compound; Simple, whereof the Natural History of the World Treats, which is either Universal, and is Termed COSMOGRAPHY, being the Description of the World; or Special, and that again either Celestial, Treating about the Heavens, Sun, Moon, and Stars, which is Appropriate to ASTRONOMY, on which depends DYALLING, with its In­fluences, to wit, ASTROLOGY; or Elementary, concerning the Elements in General, which is called STAECHIOLOGICKS; or in Particular, as of Fire called PIROGRAPHY, and of Water called HYDOGRAPHY, upon which depends NAVIGATION. Of all the Earth, as GEOGRAPHY; or of se­veral Countries and Regions, as CHOROGRAPHY; or of particular places, as Mountains, Valleys, Towns, and the like, which is called TOPOGRAPHY.

Natural Bodies compounded are partly Inanimate, and Brute; and partly Inanimate and endued with Life. Again Inanimate Natures are either engendred, and bred in the Air, about which the Art therein concerned, is called Meteorologick; or in the Earth, as Minerals, whence the Art that Treats thereof is called Metallick.

The Knowledge of Animate, or Rational living Things comprehends the History of Plants, and Animals, whence followeth the Art of MEDICINE.

There are two principal kind of Plants, viz. Herbs and Trees; the Cultivation where­of belongs to AGRICULTURE, which doth Expatiate it self into divers Par­ticulars, chiefly tending to Food and Rayment, as by Cultivating the Earth, Breed­ing Cattle, &c.

Animals are either rational, as Man; or Irrational, as Beasts. The Description of Beasts belongs Generally to ZOOGRAPHY, under which are Comprehended ICHTHYOGRAPHY, or the Description of Fish; ORNITHOGRAPHY, or the way of Keeping Fowl; and CTENOTROPHY, or Pastoral. And under this Head of ZOOGRAPHY, may be comprehended the Arts of HAWKING, HUNTING, FISHING, and FOWLING.

ANTHROPOLOGY, teacheth the propriety of Man, and consequently ANATOMY and MEDICINE follows after, as to the Dieases and their Cures.

Moreover, METAPHISICKS Treat of the Simple, and Incorporeal Natures and Things which are Intelligent, as Angels, Spirits, and Human Souls.

As to the Manners and Life of Men, one is Human and Temporal; the other Spiritual and Divine.

[Page] The Doctrin that Teacheth the Moral Vertues of Human Life, hath been by the Antient Greeks called ETHICA, and by the Latins MORAL PHILOSPHY; (the same Cicero expresseth better by the Name of Offices) of which there are two kinds, one in Administration of Houshold Affairs, called OECONOMICKS; the other in that part of the Common-Wealth, called POLITICKS; to which is to be referred JURISPRUDENCE, or CIVIL LAW; and likewise HISTORY, both Prophane and Ecclesiastical, whence proceed's CHRONOLOGY.

ETHICKS contain General Theorems and Propositions; Jurisprudence, more special.

To this part of Life and Manners belongs ARCHITECTURE, both Civil, as the Building of Houses, &c. and Military, as FORTIFICATION; also TACTICKS or WAR; with the Distinctions, as Rewards of Honour, which is HERALDRY.

And whereas this Work is designed for the Accomodation of the Nobility and Gen­try, 'its thought convenient to make an enlargement of those Arts, Peculiarly Appro­priate to their Diversion, to wit, Field-Sports, as Horsmanship, Hawking, Hunting, Fishing, and Fowling, with so much of Agriculture as befits the Qualification of a Gen­tleman to understand; In which said Arts, great care has been taken to make them more correct and perfect, (according to the Practick Part now used in this our refined Age,) as doth appear by the Work it self, which is Illustrated with great Variety of useful Cop­per Plates; as also Traps, Engines, Nets, &c. for the better Explanation thereof, and the taking Beasts, Fowl, Fish, &c. the like never performed by any.

But for the Satisfying the Curious, 'tis thought Convenient to give some Account of the Building up of this elaborate Work, which hath taken up my whole time for these Seven Years past, and not without great Expences, as well to Designers and Engravers, for the Sculptures, as to Authors, Printers, &c.

When first my Thoughts were for the undertaking this Design, I consulted divers Eminent and knowing Persons, not only as to the first parts of the Arts and Sciences; but chiefly to the Se­cond, which relates to Field-Sports, &c. to which our Nobility and Gentry are most addicted; And all approved thereof so well, that they gave me great Encouragement, to prosecute my In­tentions; freely Contributing their several Assistances, giving directions what Measures to take, what Authors to make use of, and what Persons to address, that were esteem­ed Proficients in such and such things.

As to the first part, Relating to the Arts and Sciences, some French Authors were by their Advice Translated by Approved Scholars, and in particular a System, or Compen­dium thereof; which in a Brief and clear Method, Treats of the Doctrin and General Parts of each Art, with ELIPTICAL TABLES, Comprehending a Summary, and General Division thereof, Wrote by the Famous and Learned Le Sieur de Savigne, and Published by Monsieur Bergeron, Advocate of Parliament, for the Accommodati­on of the French Gentry. But by reason the said Book comprehended not all the Arts here Treated of, and that some were too short; Their Advice was to Insert those that were omitted, and to Enlarge those that were too short, and that by those that were well Experi­enced therein, whose Advice I have in all respects followed.

GRAMMAR, RHETORICK and LOGICK, were Translated from the said Author, with Enlargements by Mr. Edward Philips, who followed their Directi­ons; THEOLOGY, METAPHISICKS, and PHILOSOPHY, both Mo­ral and Natural, were done by Dr. Thomas Sault; ARITHMETICK, and GEOME­TRY were Translated from the said Author, with some Additions from Galtrichij, by the Advice and Directions of the Right Honourable Roger Earl of Castlemain; to which the Practick parts of SURVEYING and GAUGING were added by an Expe­rienced Mathematician. COSMOGRAPHY, and ASTRONOMY were Transla­ted from the said Author, and Galtrichij, by the Directions of the Earl of Castlemain; GEOGRAPHY also Translated from the said Author, and Galtrichij; with Enlarg­ments [Page] from Varenius his Cosmography, and Sansons Geography; NAVIGA­TION was taken from the said Varenius, and some Modern Authors of Esteem; and Digested into a Body by an expert Navigator, whose Name I am obliged to Conceal; HISTORY and CHRONOLOGY were Translated from the said French Author; with Enlargments taken from Eminent Authors, by a Student at Oxford; DYAL­LING was a Translation from Galtrichij, by the said Mr. Phillips; ARCHI­TECTURE was Composed by Sir Henry Hobert of Blickling in Norfolk; WAR and FORTIFICATION were Writ by Mr. George Lesslie, and approved by seve­ral Knowing and Experienced persons, both here and beyond Seas; Musick was Transla­ted from the said Author, with Enlargements made by a Person of Honour; OPTICKS and PERSPECTIVE were Translated from the said Author, and Galtrichij; POURTRAITURE, and PAINTING were taken from a Manuscript, re­commended to me by Sir Peter Lely; And HERALDRY I Composed, being an A­bridgment of the Body thereof.

Thus in brief, I have given a Candid Account of the Building of the first Part. The Second Part was gained with far more Difficulty, by reason of the many gross Errors commit­ted in all Books; who for the Generality, follow the Footsteps of one another, without en­deavouring the Corrections in any particular.

My first Foundation of this Second Part, was a Translation from a French Author, Entituled Le Ruises Innocent, being recommended as the best of that Subject, extant in any Language; This Book being Translated, my next Business was to Collect all our English Authors of the said Subjects, worth the Supervizing, as Turbervile, Mark­ham, and others, (although stuft up with more Errors than Truths,) and Methodically Digested the whole into one entire Body; Next followed my Laborious Task to get them Supervised, and Rectified by such Sports-Men as were approved Excellent; which took me up above four Years, as being Constrained to Consult so many; for some I found Expert in some part of HAWKING, and Deficient in the rest that their Genius was not Addicted unto; as some for Short-winged Hawks, as the Goshawk, &c. not regarding Long-winged ones, as the Gerfalcon, Falcon, &c. which to others were in the highest Esteem; others were good HUNTSMEN for the Chase of the Fox, as being their chief delight, but indifferent for the Hare; whilst others delighted therein more, than in that of the Fox; and others were principally for the Stag and Buck; others were good in some particulars in each Art, as some for the Setting-Dog and Partridge; others for Train­ing up, and making Dogs for the Gun, and Setting; others for Shooting Flying; others for knowing the Haunts of Beasts of Chase, and Fowl; and how to take them by Traps, Snares, Engines, Baits, &c. some again Boasted themselves great Sports­men in the whole, having some Notions and Smatches in common things, talking a great deal to no purpose; And for FISHING and AGRICULCTURE, I met with the like Difficulties, especially in the latter, some being expert in Flowers, others in Seeds and Plants, others in Raising, Grafting and Inoculating Trees, and others for the Improvement of Grounds; so that I was forced to make use of (for the Generality) as ma­ny Persons as I had Subjects to Treat upon; and for many, had the Assistance of two or three; nor was it without great Difficulty, to get many of them to impart their Knowledge unto me, as unwilling to make it publick; neither did I rely upon that which I received from one, but shewed it to others, also expert therein, who oft made Corrections and Enlargements; so that I presume in Modesty to say, it is a Work Worthy the Acceptance of any Gentle­man, as not being too long to weary the Reader with Tedious Discourses; Thus observing the humour of our Age, which is for Multum in parvo, makes me hope it will meet with a favourable Reception.

In all these Tracts of the second Part, there is only two that were done by Particular Persons, the one is HORSMAN-SHIP writ by John Cuts of Childerley in Cam­bridg-shire Esquire, a Person of approved knowledge in all things relating to the said Subject; and the other of HAWKING, which was composed by the assistance of Sir [Page] Ralph Dutton of Sherborn in Glocester-shire, and George Russel of Abbots-Aston in Buckingham-shire, Esquire, Sergeant of his Majesty's Hawks, both long ex­perienced Falconers; and I doubt not but that they are so well performed that they will give general Satisfaction. The other Treatises went through so many hands, that it were tedious to repeat their Names.

Nor do I doubt, but that the Nobility and Gentry will reap Advantage by this Work; for by this means they are furnished with what is esteemed sufficient for the true Knowledge thereof, in a pure and clear Method, and are freed from the great charge and trouble in gathering together many Volumes, and those perhaps after a Confusion of their Opinions in Method, or otherwise, not profitably useful unto them.

AN ACCOUNT of the several ARTS AND SCIENCES Treated of in this WORK.

In the First Part.
  • GRAMMAR, Folio. 1
  • Rhetorick, Folio. 6
  • Logick, Folio. 9
  • Theology, Folio. 11
  • Metaphysicks, Folio. 15
  • Philosophy,
    • Moral Folio. 24
    • Natural Folio. 33
  • Arithmetick, Folio. 45
  • Geometry, Folio. 55
  • Surveying, Folio. 60
  • Gauging, Folio. 77
  • Cosmography, and Astronomy Folio. 80
  • Astrology Folio. 97
  • Geography, Folio. 104
  • Navigation, Folio. 127
  • Dyalling, Folio. 148
  • Architecture, Folio. 157
  • War, Folio. 165
  • Fortification, Folio. 170
  • Musick, Folio. 190
  • Chronology, Folio. 193
  • History, Folio. 201
  • Opticks, Folio. 205
  • Perspective, Folio. 211
  • Drawing, and Painting, Folio. 214
  • Heraldry, Folio. 230
In the Second Part.
  • HOrsemanship, Folio. 1
  • Hawking, Folio. 27
  • Hunting, Folio. 67
  • Fowling, Folio. 119
  • Fishing, Folio. 177
  • Agriculture, Folio. 207
  • Cock-Fighting, Folio. 277

The Division of the abovesaid Arts and Sciences as to their Parts doth appear in the Eliptical Tables at the beginning of each Art.

GRAMMAR.

PART I.

GRAMMAR is the Art of well Speaking, whether in Prosodie or Orthography; that is, in true Pro­nuntiation or Writing, and con­sists of two Parts, Etymology and Syntax.

Etymology is the first part of Grammar, decla­ring the proprieties of Letters, Syllables, and Words.

A Letter is one Indivisible sound in a Syllable, whereof there are two kinds, Vowels and Conso­nants. 10

A Vowel is a Letter, which simply of it self makes an entire sound; and amongst the Alpha­bet of Letters there are these five Vowels, a, e, i, o, u (as to y it is Greek.) Out of these Vowels variously disposed, are composed five Dipthongs, viz. ae, au, oe, ei, eu; besides Tripthongs, composed of three Vowels joyned together, as eau.

The rest are Consonants, whereof eight are called Mutes, viz. b, c, d, g, k, p, q, t; the other 20 seven are Semi-vowels, viz. f, l, m, n, r, s, x, z.

A Consonant is a Letter, which can't make an entire sound of it self, but requires thereto the assistance of a Vowel.

Of the Semi-vowels, some are called Liquids, as l, m, n, r; and some Solids, as s, x, z.

The Liquids are so called, not as being never solid; but because they are sometimes liquified, and as it were dissolved in their sounds.

S is a Letter that hath its proper power.30

The Solids are those which are never liquified, as F, and also J and V, which oft-times become Consonants when they are set before other Vow­els in the same Syllable, as in Juno voluntas, &c.

The Mutes are so called, because they begin by their own power, and have the sound of the Vowel after them, of which some are pronounced more open and from the Teeth, as T and D; others from the Palate as K and Q; and some 40 more close and from the Lips, as B and P. H is not properly a Letter, but a Note of Aspiration before a Vowel, only sometimes amongst the Poets it obtains the power of a Consonant: and it never comes before a Consonant, but always before one of the five Vowels and Y; as in Habeo, Habes, Hiatus, Horo, Humus, Hydra, &c.

The Alphabet consists of these following Letters, A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, I, K, L, M, N, O, P, Q, R S, T, V, W, X, Y, Z; and all these Letters are writ­ten in greater or lesser Characters; and with the greater are generally begun all proper Names, every Sentence after a full Period, and each seve­ral Verse in Poetry.

A Syllable is that which expresseth one entire sound in a word, and consists either of one Vowel only, or of Vowels joyned one with another, or of Vowels and Consonants together, as Simple, Double, Triple, Quadruple, and Quintuple.

A joyning together of two Vowels is called a Dipthong, as ae, ai, ei, oe, oi, ou, and of three a Tripthong; but this is never known in Latin, but sometimes in French, as aou, eau, jau, jeu.

A Syllable is either long, and then it is thus marked—;or short, which is thus marked [...]; or Common.

A Word consists of one or more Syllables, and admits of Accent, Apostrophus, and Notation.

Accent is the harmony of Language, and is other­wise called Tone, being either Acute, markt thus; or Grave or Mean, and marked thus.

Apostrophus is a cutting off of any of the five Vowels, especially of the four first, as a, e, i, o, when the following Word begins with a Vowel. This Apostrophus is seldom markt, in the Latin, but only intimated by a quick passing from one Vowel to the other, and that chiefly in Verse.

Notation is that, by which the Species or Figure of a Word is distinguished. The Species de­notes, whether it be Primitive o [...] Derivative; the Figure, whether Simple or Compound.

Of Words there are two sorts, some with num­ber, and some without Number. A Word with Number is that which consists of two Numbers, Singular and Plural; varying directly or obliquely, and that in Signification only, or in Signification and Termination.

A Word of Number is either Noun, or Verb.

A Noun is a Word of Number with Gender, in which besides the two Numbers, Singular and Plural, distinguisht from each other by the difference of Termination; there is to be consi­dered the variety of Cases, which are six, viz. the Nominative, Genitive, Dative, Accusative, Voca­tive, and Ablative; as also of Genders, to wit [Page 2] the Masculine belonging to the Male Sex, the Feminine to the Female, and the Neuter to nei­ther.

From the difference of Gender, a Noun is cal­led Substantive and Adjective. The Substantive is commonly of one Gender, and sometimes of two; but the Adjective is of all three Genders. Moreover the Adjective admits three Degrees of Comparison, viz. Positive, Comparative, and Su­perlative, and is specially divided into Article 10 and Pronoun.

The Article Hic denotes the Masculine Gender, Haec the Feminine, and Hoc the Neuter.

Pronouns are principally divided into Demon­strative, as Ego, Tu, Sui, &c. into Relative, as Qui, Qu [...]s; and into Possessive, as Meus, Tuus, Suus.

The Declensions of Nouns in Latin are five, and each distinguisht by their several Termina­tions.20

A Verb is either Finite or Infinite. A Verb Finite is a Word varied by Conjugation, Mood, Tense, Number, and Person.

The Conjugations are four, differenced by A, E long, E short, and I.

The Moods are three, Indicative, Imperative, and Potential.

Tense, or Time in Verbs, is generally Three­fold, Present, Praeterit or Past, and Future or to come. The Praeterit is also Threefold, Imperfect 30 or Imperfectly past (as the Vulgar Introduction to the Latin Grammar phraseth it) Perfect or per­fectly past, and Plusquam perfect, or more than Perfectly past.

Number is common to a Verb with a Noun, and equally divided into Singular and Plural.

Each Number of the Verb consists of three Persons, the first speaks of himself, the second speaking to another, and the third also to ano­ther: Hereupon a Verb, as to its figure, is diffe­renc'd 40 into Personal or Impersonal.

A Verb Personal is that which is formed with all the three Persons throughout all the Moods and Tenses.

A Verb Impersonal runs all along in the Third Person Singular.

A Verb Personal, as to its form, is divided into Active, Passive, or Neuter.

A Verb Active is that which signifies Action, as Amo, I love. 50

A Verb Passive is that which signifieth Passion, as Amor, I am loved.

A Verb Neuter is that which signifieth Being, as Sum, I am; Caleo, I am warm.

A Verb Infinitive hath three Gerunds, ending in Di, Do, and Dum; two Supines, the first in um, and the latter in u; and four Participles, two Active, and two Passive.

A Word without Number is that which con­tains in it self no signification of Number, as an 60 Adverb and Conjunction.

An Adverb is a Word without Number, and is of Quantity and Quality, General or Special.

Quantity Special is in Number, Time, and Place; Quality, in Similitude, Affirmation, Negation, Opta­tion, Appellation, and Exhortation.

Moreover under the Word Adverb are com­prehended Interjections and Praepositions, which are used either in Composition, as Produco; or Ap­position, as In Vrbem; besides those inseparable Particles Re and Dis, which being reckoned in the rank of Praepositions are never used but in Composition, as Resilio and Dispono.

A Conjunction is a Word without Number, by which Parts of Speech are joyned, and is either Enunciative or Rationative.

Enunciative is when the Parts are ascertained, being twofold, viz. Congregative and Segrega­tive.

Congregative is that by which the Parts are sig­nified to be true together, whether Copulative or Connexive.

Copulative is when the Parts separately are ad­justed one with another, as & etiam, &c. Con­nexive, or Conditional is when the Consequent is joyned by a Condition of the Antecedent, as si, nisi, &c.

Segregative is when the Senses, as not true to­gether are separated, and is either Discretive or Disjunctive.

Discretive is, when the Parts are separated up­on a Rational Account, as Although, nevertheless, however, &c. Disjunctive is, when the Parts are separated by Effect, in such sort as more than one cannot be true, as Or, otherwise, &c.

Ratiocinative is, when one of the Parts is con­cluded by another, to wit, Rational or Causal. Rational is when a Reason proceeds, as Then, wherefore, &c. Causal, when a Reason is rendred afterwards, as For, to the end that, because that, &c.

Next follows SYNTAX, which is the Se­cond Part of Grammar, teaching the Conjucntion or Association of Words one with another, as to Concord and mutual Propriety; as of a Noun with a Noun, in Number, Case and Gender; of a Noun with a Verb Personal, in Number and Per­son; of an Adverb and Praeposition, with the re­spective Words which they attend upon.

This Conjunction, or intercourse of Words one with another, is called by Grammarians, Oratio, or Speech, being either Simple or Compound, the Form whereof is either continued or interrupted, which last is called Dialogue; and these two man­ners of Speech are indifferently used both in Prose and Verse.

Finally, A Great [...]part of Orthography consists in the right distinguishing of Sentences.

The three Notes of Distinction generally in use, but received from the Latins, are the Sub-distinction, the Middle-distinction, and the Plenary or Full-distinction; but known by their Greek Ap­pellations, viz. Comma, Colon, and Period.

The Sub-distinction, or Comma, is only a very short Pause of Respiration or Breathing time; and is expressed by this Note or Mark (,).

The Middle-distinction, or Colon, is that which stops the Carier of a Sentence much about the Mid-way, leaving as much of the Sense behind, as hath been already past over, and this is thus Marked (:).

A Full-distinction, or Period, is that which comes after the perfecting or finishing of a Sentence, and is Marked only with one single Prick (.).

[Page 3] To these some add a Semi-Colon; which in­deed is much the same with a Colon, or at least but a small diminishment thereof, only differently Marked, as thus (;).

There are also some other Distinctions of Grammatical Observations in Sentences, as first, Interrogation, or Asking of a Question, the Note whereof is thus (?). Secondly, Admiration, or making a Wonder at a thing, the Note whereof is thus (!). Thirdly, Vnion, or the Joyning of 10 two Syllables together for the making up of a Word, being one of them at the end of a Line, and the other at the beginning of the Line fol­lowing; and this is thus Marked ( [...]). Fourth­ly, Parenthesis, which is the intercepting, or inter­cluding of one Sentence with another; the said intercepted Sentence being so entire of it self, that it may be wholly taken away, vvithout spoyling or doing any great prejudice to the rest of that vvhich remains.20

As to the Curiosity and Elegance of Language, it depends not so much upon any Rule or Precept of Grammar, as upon the Wit or Floridness of him that Writes or Speaks.

There is apparently in all Languages, one and the same reason for the Distinguishing of all ex­pressive words in discourse into several Classes, which Grammarians call parts of Speech; however we find that every Language hath some or other 30 propriety, peculiar to it self; as the Greek hath more variety of Tenses in the Verb, than the La­tin; also three Numbers both in the Noun and Verb, viz. Singular, Dual and Plural; so like­wise the Hebrew, besides the differing Modes of Regimen in the Syntax; but a Noun is a Noun, and a Verb a Verb as well in Hebrew, Caldee, and Syriac, as in Latin and Greek; the Notion and Idea of them is the same in all Idioms whatso­ever. This distinction of parts of Speech is 40 the most Material part, and even the Foundati­on of Grammar; wherefore making the Latin Tongue an Exemplar for all the rest, it will not be from the purpose to examine how well our common Latin Grammarians acquit themselves, when they divide Speech into eight parts, viz. four of them Declinable, as Noun, Pronoun, Verb and Participle, and four Indeclinable, as Ad­verb, Conjunction, Preposition, and Interjection. For the first four I will leave to the consideration 50 of any Rational Man, who shall take the pains seriously to consider the matter, whether the four might not very well have been reduced to two, for all the Pronouns (except Ego and tu, which may be accounted each of them a sort of Hermaphro­dite, part Substantive, and part Adjective) are palpable Adjectives both in their Nature, use, and Declination, as Meus Liber, my Book; Ille Ho­mo, that Man: And for the Participle, whereas there generally proceeds from the Verb a nume­rous 60 Race of Nouns both Substantive and Adjective, the Participles are a more peculiar sort of Ad­jectives, derived from, and depending upon their several Verbs. 'Tis true that a Participle hath in it something of the Nature of a Verb; for it is capable of Governing Cases absolutely in the same manner as the Verb it comes from; but in all other respects 'tis perfectly Adjective. In like manner it may easily be made out, that in stead of four Indeclinable parts, two might well enough serve the turn; for all that the Indeclina­ble part hath to do, is to wait either on the Noun, or Verb. That which attends the Noun is only single indeed, by the Name of Preposition; that which at tends on the Verb, is divided into two Terms, Con­junction and Adverb. The first leads a Sentence, or couples the Classes of Sentences, and sometimes sin­gle words together; the other adds some Circum­stance or other to a Verb, according as it happens; and for that which is called an Interjection, it seems to be no other than a more than ordinary passio­nate adverbial expression; so that in fine the Inde­clinable Particle might in my Opinion be well enough divided into two parts, by whatsoever Term distinguished, namely the Attendant on the Noun, and the Attendant on the Verb. But since doubtless there hath not been wanting all along something of finess and subtilty of Argument, strong enough to prevail with the common Learn­er, who takes all things upon trust, in the main­tenance of this Octuple division of parts, let it pass, since Custom and received Opinion must sometimes obtain in spight of Sense; yet still there will be found remaining some absurdities so gross and rank, that nothing could have suffer­ed them so long uncorrupted, but the easiness of the World to be imposed upon, of which the very principal of all is the raising of seven Genders out of Hic, Haec, and Hoc, as if the Addition or Complication of any three things, could produce a fourth: Nor is the Fallacy much less to make three Moods of one, by the Advantage of some Particle added, as Conjunction, Adverb, or the like. By this that hath been said it may be Col­lected, that more mistakes have been committed in our common, Grammatical Systems, than have been observed in the System of any other Art or Sci­ence whatsoever. It would be too teedious to make farther Instances, having already insisted upon the most material, but wave them to some other opportunity, and proceed to that part of Grammar called Prosodie.

PROSODIA.

THere is also belonging to Grammar that vvhich is called Prosodia, vvhich may also be reckoned an Introduction to Latin and Greek Poesie, because it directs to the Knowledge and Composition of Latin and Greek Verse, in order to which it treats first, of the quantity of Sylla­bles, Secondly, of the various Denomination of Feet in Verse, Thirdly, of the Distinction and Names of Verses, Fourthly, of the various Di­stinction of Poems, and lastly of the Attributes of Verses.

Of the Quantity of Syllables.

OF Syllables some are long, some short, some doubtful or common, that is, either long or short at pleasure. Long and Short Syllables a­mongst the Latins and Greeks are known eight se­veral ways. First, By Position, that is, vvhen two [Page 4] Consonants, viz. a Mute and a Liquid, or a dou­ble Consonant follow a Vowel. What Mutes and Liquids are hath been already treated of. Secon­ly, By Diphthong; a Diphthong is long among the Latins, except a Vowel follow; but among the Greeks it varies. Thirdly, By Preposition, for the Prepositions a, de, e, di, dis, pro, and, se, are Long only in some few Exceptions, unless a Vowel follow. Fourthly, By Derivation. Derivatives fol­low generally their Primitives. Fifthly, By Com­position, 10 Composites follow the Rule of their Sim­ples. Sixthly, By Vowel before a Vowel, vvhich­in the same vvord is for the most part Short. Se­venthly, By Rules, as Dissyllable preterperfect Tenses are long except Scidi, Fidi, Tuli, Steti, De­di. The First Syllable of a double preterperfect Teuse is short, as in Momordi, Fefelli, Pependi, To­tondi. The First Syllable of a Dissyllable Supine is Long, as in Satum, Cretum, Itum, Motum. The final Syllable in A of the Ablative Case Singular of 20 the First Declension, as Petrâ. The final Syllable in O, of the Dative and Ablative Singular of the second Declension, as in Animo; the final Syllable in I of the Nominative Plural, as in Animi; In Is of the Dative and Ablative Plural of the same De­clension as in Animis. The final in As of the Ac­cusative Plural of the first Declension, as in Mensas; of the Nominative Singular of acute Crescents of the third Declension, as in Bonitas. The final Sylla­ble in Es in most words are all Long. The final 30 Syllable of words in B, C, D, and T, are ever short. The final Syllable in Vs of most words is short. The final Syllable in V, for the most part is long. Eigthly, By Examples and Authority of the Antients; thus the first and middlemost Sylla­bles of words are known by the frequent reading, and observation of Authors, as Ma in Mater; Mu in Musa; No in Nobis; Pa in pacis, Pu in Pudor, &c. are Long. A in Aqua, E in Equus, Ma in Mater, O in Opus are Short.40

Of the several Feet in Latin Verse.

FRom Syllables of various quantity, various Feet arise, which are of two sorts, viz. Simple, and those compounded of the Simple: The Simple Feet are either Dissyllable or Trissylla­ble; the Dissyllable a Spondee, consisting of two long Syllables, as Rēgīs; a Pyrrichius, consisting of two short, as Sŭmŭs; a Trochee, consisting of 50 one long and one short, as ārbŏr; an Iambus, consisting of one short and one long, as Mĕōs; The Trissyllable are the Molossus, consisting of three long, as Prēdīcō; Tribrachys, consisting of three short, as ănr [...]mŭs; a Dactyl, consisting of one long and two short, as Cārmĭnă; an Ana­paestus, 60 consisting of two short and one long, as Dŏmīnī; Bacchius, consisting of one short and two long, as Quĕrēlā; Antibachius, consisting of two long and one short, as Mārtālĕ; Amphi­brachys, consisting of one long in the middle and two short, viz. the beginning and end, as Prŏtēr­vŭs; Amphimachrus, consisting of one short in the middle, and two long at the beginning and end, as Vīrgĭnēs. The Double or Compound Feet are Dispondees, consisting of two Spondees, as Cōntūrbābānt; Proceleusmaticus, consisting of two Pyrrhichius's, as Mīsērēŭs; Diiambus, con­sisting of two Iambuus's, as Mīnōrītās; Ditro­chaeus, consisting of two Trochees, as Trānsīērē; Antispastus, consisting of an Iambick and a Tro­choe, as Rĕpēntīnūs; Choriambus, consisting of a Trochee and an Iambes, as Sōllīcītī; Ionicus Mi­nor, consisting of a Pyrrichius and Spondee, as Prŏpĕrāntēs; Ionicus Major, consisting of Spondee and Pyrrichius, as Clārīssīmŭs; Pean first con­sisting of Trochee and Pyrrichius, as Sūstīnēō; Pean second, consisting of Iambus and Pyrrichius, as īmāgīnĕ Pean third, consisting of Pyrrichius and Trochee, as ănīmātŭs; Pean fourth, consist-of Pyrrichius and Iambus, as Rĕgĕmĭnāns. These Feet are common to Greek and Latin Verse.

Of the distinction and denomination of the several sorts of Latin Verse.

LAtin Verses are variously denominated, ei­ther from the sort of Feet of which they are composed, from the Inventor, or from the kind of Poem, to which they are most proper, and in which they are most used, and sometimes from the Number of Feet or Syllables whereof they consist, as Iambick or Trochaick Verses, from the Iambick's or Trochees of which they are composed: Sapphic from Sappho, the first Inventress of that kind of Verse; Pindaric from Pindarus; Heroic and Elegiac from Poems of that nature; Hexameter and Pentameter, from the number of the Feet, the first six, the other five; Hendecasyllable, from the number of Syl­lables, viz. Eleven.

The most usual sorts of Latin Verses, are these that follow, The Hexameter, the Pentameter, Iambic, Sapphick, Adonic, Phaleucian and As­clepiadean.

The Hexameter is composed of six Feet, Dactyl and Spondee, only variously disposed at pleasure; but in the fifth place of a Dactyl, and in the sixth a Spondee, as Virgil; ‘Incipe Maenalios mecum mea Tibia Versus.’ Yet not always, for sometimes though, very rarely, a Spondee is found in the fifth place; as in Ovid.

‘Hanc decet ornari, testudine Cyllenea.’ This kind of Verse is also called Heroic, as being commonly used in Poems of a Heroic Subject.

The Pentameter is so called, as consisting of five Feet, reckoning the two long Syllables in the middle and end, which put together, make a Spondee according to the common way of Scan­ning, as thus; In the first place a Spondee, in the second a Dactyl, sometimes a Spondee, or in the first place a Dactyl, and in the se­cond a Spondee, then a long Syllable, in the third and fourth place Dactyls, and at the end a long Syllable; but in my mind it may be scan'd, in a more facil and proper manner, with four Molossus Feet, thus; In the first place a Spondee, in the second a Choriambus, sometimes Molossus: [Page 5] Or in the first place a Dactyl, in the second a Mo­lossus, in the third a Dactyl, and in the last a Cho­riambus. An Example of the first is this fol­lowing, in Ovid.

Nonâ signa dabunt exoriente Lyra.

Of the Second, which is far more frequent in this, ‘Vulgus amicitias Vtilitate probat.10

This sort of Verse is seldom or never used alone, but still following an Hexameter; as,

Ex ego non paucis quondam munitus amicis,
Dic flavit velis aura secunda meis.
Fera nimboso tumuerunt aequora vento,
In mediis lacera nave relinquor aquis.

The Iambic, so called from the Iambic Foot,20 of which it chiefly consists, is the most various of all other sorts of Verse, being either Diameter, Trimeter, or Senarie; but the most usual of all is the Senarie Iambic, consisting most of Iambic. Feet, but now and then a Spondee, or a Trochee: The most Genuine is only composed of Iambic Feet; as, ‘Suis & ipsa Roma viribus ruit.’

Diameter is seldom used, but with other Verses; 30 but the Trimeter is a stately sort of Iambic; as,

O carminum dulces notae,
Quas ore pulchra melleo
Fundis Lyraeque succinis.

The Sapphic, so called from the Greek Poetress Sappho, who first invented and used it, consists of five Feet, a Spondee in the first and second 40 place, a Dactyl in the third, a Trochee in the fourth and fifth; as, ‘Nullus argento dolor est avaris.’

The Adonic is a Verse consisting only of Dactyl and Spondee, and is seldom or never used but with Sapphics, that is, after every third Verse; as,

Jam satis— 50
Grandinis misit pater, & rubente
Dextera sacras jaculatus arces,
Terruit urbem.

The Phaleucian consists as the Sapphic doth of five Feet, made up of eleven Syllables, and therefore is called as the Sapphic, also might be Hendecasyllabum; the Feet of the Phaleucian are in the first place a Spondee, in the second a Da­ctyl, in the third, fourth and fifth a Trochee; as,60 ‘Passer deliciae meae puellae.’

The Asclepiadean consists of four Feet, a Spon­dee, a Choriambus, and two Dactyls; as, ‘Sublimi feriam Sydera vertice.’

This sort of Verse and the Sapphic are very much used by Horace in his Odes, as the Phaleu­cian by Catullus.

Of the various division of Poems.

POEMS are divided into manifold kinds; but the most general division of them is threefold, viz. into Dramatic, Examatic, and Mixt.

Dramatic Poems are so called from the repre­sentation of things acted or done, and are chiefly of two sorts, Tragedy and Comedy; the last treats of mean and vulgar Actions, the first of more high and noble.

Exegematic Poems are those which are carried on by the Author in one entire contexture, without any interposition of Persons.

Mixt are those wherein sometimes the Author speaks, sometimes other Persons are brought in speaking.

Of the Attributes of Verses.

THe Attributes of Verses are chiefly four, Scansion, Caesura, Figura, and Permissio.

Scansion is the measuring and adjusting of a Verse by its Feet.

Caesura is the making of a short Syllable long at the end of two or three Feet, the first is called Pentimemeris; as, ‘Pectoribus inhians, spirantia consulit exta.’ The other Heptimemeris.

The Figures are usually the same as in Prose, and are particularly treated of in Systems of Rhetorick.

Mixtion is the composition of several kinds of Verses in the same Poem. The first Mixtion is called Dicolon distrophon; that is, of Hexameter and Pentameter together, as hath been noted in the description of those kind of Verses. The next is Dicolon Tetastrophon; that is, when after three Verses of the same kind a fourth of another kind follows, as in the Sapphic and Adonic before noted: The last is Tricolor Tetrastophon; that is, when after four Verses of three kinds a return is made to the same again; as,

Dianam tenerae dicite Virgines,
Intonsum pueri dicite Cinthium,
Latonamque Supremo
Dilectam peritus Jovi.
Vos laetam fluviis & memorum coma,
Quaecunque aut gelido prominet algido.
Nigris aut Erymanthi,
Sylvis aut viridis cragi.

RHETORICK.

RHETORICK is the Art of well speak­ing, or Elegantly discoursing, being ac­cording to the Eliptical Table, divi­ded into two parts, Elocution and Pronuntia­tion; To which 'tis thought not improper to prae­fix Invention and Disposition, as being handled in several accurate Systems of Rhetorick; and therefore not wholly to be omitted here, be­fore we proceed to the two parts mentioned in the said Table. 10

Invention is the Contriving, or bringing of matter together, for the Composing of any Ar­gument, Discourse, or Oration. The Topicks or Heads whence Arguments may be invented are these following, First, Definition or a Speech declaring what a thing is. Secondly, Di­vision or the Distribution of the matter propound­ed into its parts. Thirdly, Notation or Etymo­logy, which is the interpretation of a word, shew­ing both its Original and Signification. Fourthly,20 Conjugation, which shews either the various endings of words, or the derivation of several words from one Primitive. Fifthly, Genus is that which com­prehends several things under it. Sixthly, Species, any of those things that may be restored to their common Genus. Seventhly, Similitude, or the comparing of two or more things together. Eighth­ly, Dissimilitude, or the disagreeing of two or more things in some particular. Ninthly, Contra­ries, or things which cannot both at the same 30 time agree, with one and the same thing. Tenth­ly, Opposites or things that can never agree. Eleventhly, Comparison, or the comparing of one thing with another. Twelfthly, Causes, that is, such things by which any thing is in any sort produc't, being Fourfold, Essicient, Material, For­mal, and Final. Thirteenthly, Effects, that is, things propounded by their Causes. Fourteenth­ly, Adjuncts, or Things that are joyned to the thing, or person propounded. Fifteenthly, An­tecedents, 40 or things which go before the thing or matter. Sixteenthly, Consequents, that is, things which do necessarily follow after the thing or matter.

Disposition is the orderly placing of those things which are Invented; hence results Discourses or an Oration, the parts whereof are com­monly reckoned these five; First, Exordium, by which the Orator doth prepare the minds of the Auditors for that which is to follow, by be­speaking 50 their favours, by making them docible, or by beging their Attention. Secondly, Propo­sition, in which the Orator doth briefly deliver the Sum of the whole matter of which he intends to speak. Thirdly, Narration, in which a rela­tion is made of the matter or thing done. Fourth­ly, Confirmation, in which Arguments are brought to prove the Proposition, and if need be, to con­trary the Opinion of any Opposer. Fifthly, Pero­ration or Conclusion, in which the Orator useth such Figures as are most proper to move the Af­fections of the Auditors.

Elocution is no other than the Ornament and Enrichment of Speech, which is also Twofold, viz. Trope and Figure.

Trope is a part of Elocution, by which the Na­tural or proper Signification of a word is changed into another. There are two sorts of Trope, at least a double Modification thereof; viz. simple as Metonymie and Ironie, and compound as Me­taphor in respect of a comparison, and Synecdo­che in respect of Distribution. If a Trope be a little harsh, or far fetch't, it may be called Ca­tachresis, or Abusion; which if it be somewhat too ruff to the Ear, it may be sweetned and softned by such like excuses, as the Latins call Praemonitions. If the Signification be raised, or carried on to a­ny excess, it is called Hyperbole; If any ways multiplied and continued, an Allegorie.

Metonymie is a Trope, by which a word first design'd to signifie properly the cause of any thing whatsoever is made use of to signifie the effect, where that which is properly used for the Subject, is transfer'd from its proper and natural Signifi­cation, to signifie a Circumstance, or contrarie­ty, where words design'd to signifie Effects or Cir­cumstances are converted to signifie Causes and Subjects

He reads Ovids works, that is a Metonymie of the efficient cause for the Effect.

Mans life prolong'd, must yield to crooked Age, that is, Age which maketh crooked; this is a Metonymie of the Effect, for the Efficient Cuuse.

My Friend I see hath got a chirping Cup; that is, as much Wine or strong Drink as a large Cup will contain; this is a Metonymie of the Subject for the Adjunct.

I yield much reverence to your hoary Hairs; that is, you who have hoary Hairs; this is a Metonymie of the Adjunct for the Subject.

Ironie is when one contrary is understood by another; that is to say, when any word is made use of in a Signification, contrary to what it ought to be; and therefore may otherwise be cal­led Simulation, or Dissimulation.

You are a Man of your word indeed; that is, a Faith-breaker. It is simple or continued, and hereunto may be referred Preterition, as a Species of Dissimulation; that is, when we make sem­blance of not being willing, to say that which [Page]

To The Worshipfull William Stych of Newbury in the Parish of Barkin in Essex Es [...] This Plate is Humbly Dedicated By Richard Blome.

[Page] [Page 7] nevertheless we at last do utter, as

He was a wary Man, I might say covetous.

Metaphor is, when one like is understood by another, that is, when one word of a proper Signification is made use of for another like it. It may otherwise be called Translation, which is as Comprehensive as Similitude; for there is no­thing in Nature whose Name and Appellation may not be applied to some thing else.

When Spring appears the very Heavens smile; 10 that is, look pleasantly.

Synecdoche, which we call Conception, and Intel­ligence is, when a part is taken for the whole; or on the contrary, the whole for a part.

His happy Reign full forty Summers last'd; that is, forty Years. This is Synecdoche partis.

A Figure is another part of Elocution, by which the Phrase of Language is advanc't from the sim­ple and vulgar manner of speaking; for as of words some are proper, some Translate; so in 20 Language, and manner of Speech, one sort is sim­ple and vulgar, another Figurative, that is to say, a little changed or altered from the common and Familiar way.

There are two sorts of Rhetorical Figure, one of Diction, and the other of Sentence.

Figure of Diction is that which renders Language sweet and harmonious, by a resonancy of words called number, which affects the Ear, with a certain delight, being a kind of pleasant Modalu­tion 30 and Harmony of Speech made by a certain measure and quantity of Syllables made therein, or by a pleasing Repetition of words of the like sound.

The Observation of Syllables in Speech, is al­together Poetical; and is either Rhythm, or Meetre; Rhythm is made by the Observation of the ulti­mate Syllables of one, two, three, or four, or more Verses answering to each other in sound: But Meetre or Verse is the Observation of Feet, 40 consisting of two, three, or more Syllables, ac­cording to their long or short.

The Repetition of Sound is agreeable, as well to Prose as Verse, and may indifferently be u­sed by Orator and Poet at pleasure. This Repe­tition is either of the like sound; and that con­tinually in the same Sentence, as Epizeuxis; or in divers Sentences, as Anadiplosis and Gradation; or separately, and that either in a successive order, as Anaphora, Epistrophe, and Symploce; or pro­miscuously 50 as Epanalipsis and Epanodos; or of an unlike sound, as Paronomasia, and Polipto­te.

Epizeuxis is a Rhetorical Number, in which one and the same sound is subsequently repeat­ed.

Time flies, Time flies, never to be recal­led.

Anadiplosis is the same ending of one Sentence, as the beginning of the following.60

If why I take not leave she ask, ask her again, &c.

Gradation is the carrying on of any expression, from a lower to a higher Degree.

Desert begat Admiration, Admiration Esteem, E­steem procured love it self.

Anaphora or Relation, is the Repetition of one and the same sound, at the beginning of several Sentences, or Members of a Sentence.

By Art of Sails, &c. Seas are divided.

By Art the Chariot runs, by Art Loves guided.

Epistrophe or Conversion, is the contrary of Anaphora, that is, a Repetition of the same sound, at the end of several Sentences, or Members of a Sentence.

What braver People than the Romans; who more Renowned in Arms than the Romans: More Flourishing in Arts and Eloquence than the Ro­mans?

Anaphora and Epistrophe joyned together, pro­duce the Figure Symplote or Complication.

The more he strove to bring his end about, the more he failed to bring his ends about.

Epanalepsis is a Repetition of the same sound, both at the beginning and end of Sentences.

Great was his Actions, as his Fame was Great.

Epanodes or Regression is as it were a Reflexion of the like sound, at the beginning and middle, or at the middle and end of a Sentence.

The Prince desired above all things to oblige the People.

The People feared nothing more than to displease the Prince.

Paronomasia or Agnomination, is an Allusion or Resemblance of one word to another; and it is either of a whole word, or of a part thereof: Paronomasia of a whole word is called Equivocal, and sometimes is the same thing with Rythm of a Verse: Paronomasia of a part of a word is in certain Syllables; for sometimes words resemble one another in the first and last Syllables, some­times in the midlemost and last Syllables.

Polyptoton is comprehended under Agnominati­on, and is vulgarly called Traduction, by which oft times the last case is changed, yet there re­mains some Similitude betwixt the words.

Swords Clash with Swords, and Shields against Shields do hit.

Figure of Sentence is a Rhetorical Figure, ex­tended and continued through a whole Sentence: It consists either in Logism, or Dialogism; Logism is when a Sentence is Figured without Collocution, or Interchange of Discourse; and of this there are several kinds, as First Exclamation and Revoca­tion; and Secondly by Apostrophe and Prosopopaea. Exclamation is an Elevation of the Voice, for the better heightning and amplifying of what is ex­prest, and consists of several Affections, as Admi­ration, Optation, Derision, Indignation, Saluta­tion, &c. To which may also be referred Epipho­nema and Licentia.

Epiphonema is a kind of Exclamation, which comes in voluntarily at the end of the Narration of any thing.

Such horrid things Ambition brings to pass.

Licence is a Figure which pretends a kind of boldness, in speaking that which seemed to have been designed to be concealed.

Revocation is a calling back upon mature Delibe­ration, of something that was spoken in heat and vehemence in the foregoing Sentence. To this Figure belongs Correction and Reticence.

Epanorthesis or Correction, is a Bridling, or checking of our Speech, the grace whereof con­sists [Page 8] in the ingenious, and subtile calling in of what was before spoken. As,

Dy'd did I say, alas he did not dye.

Apos [...]opesis or Reticence is the shortning, or Retrenching of a Sentence by abruptly breaking off in the midst of something that seems design­ed to have been said.

Many such Injuries have I received; But if I live.

Apostrophus or Aversion is a Diversion, or 10 turning away of ones Speech, or intended Ad­dress from one thing or Person to another.

Be Witness O ye Heavens.

Prosopopaea or Sermocination is a Figure of Sentence, by which on a suddain one turns from his former manner of Speech, and speaks in the person of another; and it is either imperfect, or perfect. Prosopopaea is called imperfect, when the fiction of another Person speaking is only intima­ted, that is by recounting, or rehearsing what 20 such or such a one hath said. As,

I am, said he, of Noble Parentage.

Perfect and plain Prosopopaea is an absolute re­presenting of another Person, by our manner of Speech.

Jove me begat, things both to come and past, and also present are by me reveal'd.

Dialogismus is either in Interrogation, or Answer. Interrogation consists in Deliberation and Occupa­tion. Deliberation or Consultation consists in Ad­dubitation 30 and Communication.

Addubitation expresseth the Affection of a Man, in Doubt and Perplexity. As

What shall I do, or whither shall I fly?

Communication is a Deliberation and Consultati­on with others, as in the following Figure with our selves.

Prolepsis is a Figure of Sentence, by which we readily answer, as it were to a demand or Ob­jection before it is made: It is sometimes called Occupation, and sometimes Subjection.

Answer is in Permission and Concession.

Permission is when we give leave and power to do any thing. As,

Follow your own desires, I envy not.

Concession seems to be an Approbation of a thing proposed in such sort, that as Permission is in deeds, so Concession is in words and arguments: As when we grant that which he who disputes a­gainst us, demands to have granted.

But we will grant that all you have said is true.

Pr [...]nunciation is another part of Rhetorick, which expresseth Elocution, and utters in Speech what was first conceived in the mind; and con­sists of two parts, Voice and Gesture. Whereof the first presents it self to the Ear, and the se­cond to the Sight: By which two Senses all Knowledge is apprehended.

Vocal Pronunciation consists much in the good­ness of the Voice, which is a principal thing to be desired, for the uttering and putting forth of Accent, and Tone of Speech, all which Figures of Diction and Sentence, and all the Affections and Passions of the Mind, so that the utterance may be agreeable to the Subject spoken of.

Gesture consists in Action, and the handsom dis­position of the Body, and all its parts.

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To the R. Worshipfull Sr. Richard Browne of Debden Hall in Essex Bdron [...]t, Mr. of Arts. & fellow Commoner of Queens Colledge in Combridge. & Baristr, at Law. Brigadeer. & Eldest Lei [...]etenant of Horse in the Second Troop of his Majest [...]. Life Guard▪ & Caryer in Ordinary to ye King. This Plate is humbly Dedicated by Richard Blome.

LOGICK.

DIalect or Logick is an Art of well disputing or reasoning; and consists of Two parts, Invention and Judgment. Invention is the first part, and serves for the raising up of Reasons and Arguments.

Argument is that which is designed for the bet­er declaring of any thing that is to be discourst of, and is either artificial or inartificial.

Artificial takes upon it to make out it self and its own nature, and is either Primary, or proced­ing 10 from the Primary.

The Primary is either simple or compared: The simple is Consentaneous or Dissentaneous. The Con­sentaneous consents with the thing which it argues and declares, and is of four kinds, Cause, Effect, Subject, and Adjunct.

Cause is an Argument whence proceeds some Effect, and is also of four kinds, Efficient, Materi­al, Formal, and Final.

Efficient is the cause by which any thing is ef­fected,20 and hath a three-fold division, viz. First; It is either Procreant, or Conservant. Procreant is that which first effects any thing, and Conser­vant is that which maintains it in its first State.

Secondly, The Efficient cause is either sole, or joyned with another. The sole is that which doth a thing by its own efficiency or power. The Efficient joyned with another, is either Principal or Subservient, and assisting to the Principal.

Thirdly, The Efficient cause is either of it self,30 or by accident; the Efficient per se; or of it self, as that which acts by its own proper motion, as by Council, by Nature, &c. The Efficient by Ac­cident, is that which acts by an external motion, as Necessity, which is a force upon the Effect: Fortune is also a cause by accident, acting with­out constraint upon its Effect.

Matter is a cause of which a thing is made.

Form is that by which any things vvhat it is, and by which it is different from all other things.40

The final cause is that from which any thing is made or done.

The Effect is whatsoever issueth or proceeds from the causes: The Subject is that to which a­ny thing is adjoyn'd: The Adjunct is that which is joyned to the subject.

Dissentaneous is an Argument which dissents and contradicts the thing which is argued or de­clared, and is either Diverse or Opposite; Diverse is that which contradicts by reason alone; Opposite 50 dissents both in reason and fact. Opposite is either Disparous or Contrray; Disparous is an Opposite not differing very much as to Singulars, that is to say, one from one, but plurally, or one from many. Contrary is where one is absolutely opposed to one, and is either Affirmative or Negative. The Affirmative is either Relative or Adverse. Relative is a contrary Affirmative, whose essence is mutual; Adverse is a contrary Affirmative whose essence is separate. A contrary Negative is vvhere one thing contains a negation of the other, and is either Privative, or Contradicting; Privative is a contrary Negative, where one is the Habitude, the other the privation of the Habitude; The Contradicton is the Contrary Negative, where one affirms, the other totally denies the same.

Comparate is where one thing is compared with another, and is of two kinds, one in Quantity, and the other in Quality.

The Comparison of Quantity is by Mathema­ticians called Ratio, or Proportion; and it is either e­qual, or unequal; equal Proportions are those whereof there is one and the same quantity; une­qual are those whose quantities are unequal, and are either more or less unequal: the more une­qual is that whose quantity exceeds, the less whose quantity comes short.

Comparison of Quantity is that by which things are said to be so, and so that is to say, like or unlike. Like are those vvhereof there is one and the same quantity; unlike are those whose quantities are diverse or different.

Arguments proceding from the primary are Con­jugation, Notation, Distribution, and Definition; Con­jugation is the various mutation of Nouns by their diversity of Cases,

Notation is the Interpretation of a Nounn, or name. Distribution is a distinction of the whole into parts, that is, by the Causes, Effects, Sub­jects, or Adjuncts: Of the second [...]kind of distri­bution by Effects, is the distribution of the Genus into its Species, which is properly called Division: Genus is the whole of several things alike in Essence or alike Essence of many things: Species is a part of the Genus.

Definition is that which properly declares what any thing is, and it is either Imperfect, or Perfect: That is properly called Definition, this Descrip­tion; perfect Definition is a Definition composed of Causes constituting the Essence.

Description is a description composed also of o­ther Arguments.

Inartificial Argument is that which by it self and by its own force creates no belief but as it bor­rows its force of some Artificial Argument: This Argument is commonly called Authority, or Testi­mony, and is either Divine, or Humane; Divine as the Oracles of God, or Prophesies; Humane is common, or proper; Common as the written, or unwritten Law, famous Sentences, Proverbs or [Page 10] Sayings of wise Poets, Philosophers, and other re­nouned Persons Testimony proper, as Obligation, Confession, Question, and Oath.

Judgment is the second part of Logick, and treats how to dispose arguments to judge by a certain Rule of disposition; whence this part is called by one and the same signification Judgment and Dis­position: Judgment is either without Discourse, as an Axiom, or Discursive as a Sylogism and Me­thod. 10

An Axiom is the disposition of one Argument with another, by which it may be judged whe­ther a thing be or not; where we ought to con­sider first the parts Antecedent and Consequent; Secondly the common Affections, and Proprieties of Affirmation and Negation, of Truth or Falsity; and Thirdly the Species Simple or compound.

An Axiom is affirmed if the Copulative be affir­med, and contrarywise denied if that be deni­ed; Also an Axiom is true when it is pronounced 20 really as the thing is; and false when on the con­trary: A true Axiom is either necessary or con­tingent; A necessary Axiom is always true and can never be false: An Impossibility on the contrary cannot be true. Moreover it is either Homogeneous, that is, when the parts are Essential amongst them­selves; or Reciprocal, that is, when the Consequent is affirmed, and verifyed of its Antecedent, not only totally, and of it self, but also reciprocally.

An Axiom is either simple, or compound: An 30 Axiom simple is comprised under one word, so as from thence to make any Affirmation or Negation: An Axiom simple is General, Particular, or Pro­per.

General is when a common Consequent is ge­nerally attributed to a common Antecedent.

Particular is when a common Consequent is particularly attributed to the Antecedent.

Proper is when the Consequent is Attributed to its Proper Antecedent. 40

A Compound Axiom hath many Sentences con­joyned, of which the Copula is not a Verb but Conjunction: This compound Axiom is in respect of its Conjunction, either Congregative, or Segre­gative; the Congregative being either Copulative or Conditional; the Segregative either Discretive or Disjunctive.

An Axiom Copulative is a compound Axiom whose Copula is a Conjunction Copulative; An Axiom conditional is that whose Copula is a Con­junction 50 Conditional; An Axiom Discretive is that whose Conjunction is Discretive. A Disjunctive is that whose Conjunction is Disjunctive, and so in all others of the like nature.

Judgment Discursive is when one Axiom is drawn from another, and is either Syllogism, or Method.

A Syllogism is a Discursive Judgment by which a Question is so disposed with the Argument that the Antecedent being granted the Conclusion must necessarily follow. Of a Syllogism we are first to 90 consider the Parts, next the several Kinds.

The Antecedent of a Syllogism hath two parts, Proposition and Assumption; but the Consequent is that which contains the parts of the Question, and there concludes, whence it is the Complexion, or the Conclusion.

The Proposition is that by which the Consequent of the Question is disposed with the Argument. The Assumption is drawn from the Proposition; The Conclusion compriseth the parts of the Qesti­on which it concludes.

A Syllogism is of two kinds, Simple and Com­pound; the Simple is when the Consequent part of the Question is put in the Proposition, the Argument in the Assumption: And it is Affir­mative when its parts are affirmed; Negative when one of the Antecedent parts together with the Conclusion is denyed; It is also General, that is, when the Proposition and the Assumption are Ge­neral. Special when one of the two only are General; Proper when both of the parts are Proper.

A Simple Syllogism is either restrained in its parts, or entire; A Syllogism restrain'd is when the Argument is so adjusted to a particular Que­stion, that preceding one or the other part, and be­ing Affirmed of the Assumption it is so much the better understood.

A Syllogism entire is when the Proposition is General or Proper, and the Conclusion like to the Antecedent, or the weaker part. Of this there are two kinds; in the first the Argument is always Consequent, and concludes only the Question de­nied; and it is first General, second General, and first and second Special.

The second kind of Syllogism entire is when the Argument is the Antecedent of the Proposition, the Consequent the Affirmative of the Assumption; and it is Affirmative General, Negative General, Affirmative Special, Negative Special, Affirmative Proper, and Negative Proper.

A Compound Syllogism is when all the Question is one of the parts of the Proposition affirmed and compounded, and the Argument is the other part. This Compound Syllogism is either Conditi­onal, or Disjunctive.

The Conditional Syllogism is that whereof the Proposition is conditional, and it is of two kinds; The first kind takes back the Antecedent, and concludes the Consequent: the second takes back the Contradiction of the Consequent, and con­cludes the Contradiction of the Antecedent.

A Disjunctive Syllogism, is a Compound Syllo­gism whose Proposition is Disjunctive, as also its kinds; The first Disjunctive kind takes back the contradiction of the one and concludes the con­tradiction of the other.

Method is a Judgment discursive of divers Ho­mogeneous Axioms which are proposed to be who­ly absolutely preceding nature, more evident, more clear and notorious.

Method is twofold, the Method of Doctrine, and the Method of Prudence.

The Method of Doctrine is an artificial and per­fect Method taken and deduced from general Pro­positions more clear and notorious than nature to those that are short in the knowledge thereof.

Method of Prudence is a Natural, inartificial and imperfect Method; so called because it can hardly be Governed by any certain Art, but is almost totally managed by the Prudence and Judgment of Man.

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[figure]

THEOLOGY.

THEOLOGY is the Doctrine of the know­ledge of God and Divine things, in or­der to his glory, and the eternal Salvati­on of the Soul of Man.

I have endeavored in the precedent Scheme or Table to make use of such a Method or short Bo­dy of Divinity as might be plain and easy, and yet comprehend that which is necessary.

For this reason I have divided it into its Specu­lative and practic part, that is, into Knowledge 10 and Practice.

The Knowledge is of what we are to believe and understand, and the Practice of what we are to do to obtain Everlasting Life.

The former of these is contained in the several Symbols of the Croed; the latter in the Deca­logue or Ten Commandments, which both together are, as it were an Epitome, or Synopsis of what­ever is contained in the Holy Scriptures, necessary to Salvation. 20

This Divine Speculation consists principally in a right knowledge and belief of these Three things, to wit, the Knowledge.

1. Of the Essence of God.

2. Of the Faculties, and Immortality of the Soul.

3. Of the State after this Life.

And these three are all taught us in the Apostles Creed.

The knowledge of Gods Essence or Nature, may in regard of the Degrees and manner of at­taining 30 it, be said to be Two-fold, that is, either what may be seen and perceived by the Light of Nature, or what we have by Divine Revelation.

That which we have by the Light of Nature is from the consideration of his Works, both of Cre­ation and Providence.

God Almighty is easily perceived in his Works of Creation, whether we look upon the great, or the little World; I mean, vvhether vve consider the Structure, Beauty, and Symmetry of the Vni­verse, 40 or the Frame and Constitution of our own Selves. When we look upon this vast and Glo­rious Fabrick of the World, the beauty and Va­riety of the Creaturs, the constant order of their Dissolution, and re-production, their wonderful Harmony in the mutual support and Preservation of one another, we cannot chuse but imagin that all this is the Product of some Higher Power, than any we met with in the World, and this is the first Notion of God. 50

Again if we look into our own Bosoms, we shall there meet with strange desires and Brea­things after Eternity. And after the Enjoyments, of all Sorts of Pleasures of this World, we are still vveary and Dissatisfied, having a Principle within us that (unlike all the rest of the Creation) meets with no Adequate, proportionat Object below the Moon; a strong and Violent Presump­tion that it has it true Object somewhere else; which can be nothing but the Enjoyment of that God which Created it. Yet further, the very Checks of Conscience, and those natural inbred Notions we bring into the World with us of Right and Wrong, of Virtue and Vice, of Rewards and Punishment, are very strong and Pregnant Proofs of a Deity.

And so far the very Heathens arrived to know that there was a God, supream-Power that guided and directed all things as it pleased; and hence proceded their worshiping and Sacrificing to vvhatever they found did them good, or what they were afraid might do them hurt, as the Sun, Moon, Stars, and all the Host of Heaven.

When I consider how great a part of Man­kind the Heathens have been, and (many of them) how entire in their Morals, me thinks I cannot with the bold Censurers of the Age pass a final Sentence of Damnation upon their immortal Souls; but, if it were possible, interpret St. Pauls words in their favour, where he tells us, That they having not the Law, are a Law unto themselves. And though we are told there is no other name under Heaven by vvhich vve can be saved, but only by Jesus Christ, yet, it may be, those words are to be understood of such as have had Jesus Christ sufficiently proposed to them; for we Read, that what the Law speaks, it speaks to those that are under the Law.

The other Branch of Gods works vvhereby he manifests himself to our natural Reason, are those of his Providence, which considered either in its ordinary or extraordinary effects and productions, is such that Seneca (though a Heathen) could not believe that any Man was so blind or ignorant as not to believe a Deity; his own vvords are these. Qui dicit se credere Deos non esse, mentitur; He that saies that he believes there are no Gods, dis­sembles or Lies.

Thus you see how by the light of Nature only. Men understand, that God is, and that he is to be worshiped. But for ever blessed be his holy Name, he hath not lest us here, but hath given us a more sure word of Prophecy, the holy Scrip­tures, vvherein he hath revealed himself to us; and which is here the most material, he hath confirmed the truth of them both by Pro­phecies and Miracles, such as some of the Gentiles could never boast of, Miracles truly so, and not feigned, like those of the Egyptian Sorcerers, and the Juglars of our days, that only seem to do things.

[Page 12] The Egyptians experienced (but too truly) that their Plagues were real, and no dreams. The Children of Israel did pass through the Red-Sea; they did drink of the Water, that came out of the Rock in the Wilderness, and their Thirst was quen­ched; they did eat of the Quails and Manna and were satisfied, and sustained for forty years to­gether; and the Miracles at the delivery of the Law on Mount Sinai, deserves mentioning, for we read that the Mount burnt with Fire, and 10 thick Darkness was round about it, and there was Thunder and Lightning, and the sound of a Trumpet, which sounded lowder and lowder, and the Mount trembled; and this was done not only in the sight of the Elders of Israel, but in the presence of all the People, who quaked and trembled thereat.

To the Miracles we may add the Prophecies which we meet with in Holy Scriptures, some of which were very particular, and circumstantial.20 It was told Abraham that the Children of Israel should be Strangers, and in Bondage in Egypt 400 years before, which Prophecy was fulfilled to a Day. The Prophecy about Josiah and Cyrus, named the very Men, and that of Daniel of the four Monarchies was very remarkable, he had seen only two of them, for the Grecian and Roman were then unthought of.

To these I might add the Prophecies concerning our Saviour, and how in every little circumstance 30 they were fulfilled, a proof which will admit of no Objection, and will serve us to prove not on­ly That God is, and that his Revelation of him­self in his Word is true, but will also confirm the Truth of Christianity it self.

To what has been said I might add, that the Word of God has never been opposed, or contra­dicted by any, although it be sound to agree both as to Time, Place and Story, with many pro­phane Historiographers. 40

Now the Truth of Gods Word confirms to us the truth of that Sacred Mystery of the Trinity, or the Three Persons in the Godhead, the Father, the Son, and the Holy Ghost. The Father Created all things of nothing: The Son Redeemed us from everlasting Death, when we were lost in Adams Disobedience; The Holy Ghost inspires all God's Servants with his Grace, and comforts them in all their Troubles and Afflictions; as if all the Three Persons in the Trinity had successively un­dertaken 50 the care of our Eternal Happiness.

And yet we are not here to expect those extra­ordinary and supernatural Influences of the holy Spirit, which the Prophets and Apostles had in speaking with Tongues, they had never learn't, in Prophesying, casting out Devils, and working all sorts of Miracles: Not that Gods hand is shortned, or that he is not able to do what he hath formerly done, but for Reasons best known to himself (at which we can at the best but guess)60 he hath left off this way of proceeding with us, and now adays the Holy Ghost works only (or for the most part) in the use of means. And this shews the Vanity of our Sectaries and Enthu­siasts, who pretend extraodinary Revelations, when we all know that they are long ago ceas­ed.

Another thing we are assured of from the Re­velation of Gods Word, is that we have Souls di­stinct from our Bodies, immaterial, rational and discursive in respect of their Essence, and immor­tal and incorruptible in regard of their duration; and this is that wherein we are said to repre­sent God Almighty, and to be Created after his Image.

And to this Doctrine of the Immortality of the Soul, is also annexed and declared in Holy Writ, that of a future State, Rewards and Punish­ments.

Rewards of Everlasting bliss, and joy [...]o the good and vertuous, which are commonly shadowed to us under the Notions of those things we have the greatest esteem for; as Crowns, Treasures which fade not away, Rivers of Pleasures, &c.

Punishments o [...] endless Woe and Torment to the Wicked and Ungodly, figured in Gods Word by those things that to Flesh and Blood are most terrible and fullest of Horror, as Everlasting Fire, the Lake which burns with Fire and Brimstone, utter Darkness, &c. Of both which we may tru­ly say, that they are such as neither Eye hath seen, nor Ear heard, nor entred into the Heart of Man to conceive. Let it suffice us then, that there shall be a Resurrection of the Body, and a reunion of it to the Soul to receive its Reward; though the Manner and Circumstances both of Rewards and Punishments be to us very obscure and unknown. And thus much of Speculative Theology.

Practical Theology.

PRactical Theology, which is the other Branch of our Division is that which contains our Duty to God and Man; and this we have briefly comprehended in the Decalogue, or Ten Command­ments, wherein we are always to observe, that every Affirmative Precept, includes a Negative, and every Negative an Affirmative. That is to say, where we are commanded to Honour our Fathers and Mothers, we are forbidden to dishonour them; where we are forbidden to Kill, we are commanded to our power to preserve; and so of all the rest.

But to being with that part of our Duty, which doth immediately respect God himself; It con­sists in our diligence and sincerity in his Worship, and is briefly laid down in the four Commandments of the first Table.

The Subject Matter whereof may be reduced to these main heads of Adoration, Prayer, and Praises.

Prayer for those good things we stand in need of, and hope to receive from God Almighty, who is the giver of every good and perfect gift; and Prayer for those Mercies and Favours which he hath already given us.

Both these are either publick or private; Pub­lick when we joyn with the Church, or any lawful publick Assembly of Christians to make our requests known to God, or praise his holy Name for Mercies received; Private when we do the same things alone, or in our Closets.

[Page 13] There is this only difference between them, that our Publick performances should be more wary in Circumstances, as forms and gravity of Words, decency, and respect of Behaviour, and this so the sake of our Neighbour, that we give no occasion of scandal; though after all it must be confest that 'tis the integrity and soundness of the heart which God chiefly regards in both.

Next our Duty towards God, follows our Duty to Man, that is, our Duty towards our 10 Selves and our Neighbours.

First of all, there are some Duties we owe our Selves, and these are all briefly comprehended in the vvorking out our own Salvation, which is the main business for which vve were at first cre­ated and came into this World.

The means and Instruments we are to make use of herein are principally these Three,

Faith in Jesus Christ.
Repentance from dead works.20
Obedience, or newness of life.

Faith is a free Grace bestowed upon us by God Almighty, whereby we lay sure hold on the Pro­mises made to Mankind, through the Merits and Intercession of Jesus Christ.

In which Definition we may observe in the first place, That this grace of Faith is not attainable by any human endeavours, but is the meer volun­tary and free gift of God. And yet since he works (as is said before) in the use of Means, vve are still 30 to frequent the Word Read and Preached, to con­verse with good Men, to desire and pray for his Grace, and no doubt but he will give it us.

Again, We may take notice, that it is not a bare Historical Faith, like that whereby we be­lieve Profane History, or any thing else of that kind, but it is that whereby vve lay hold on and apply the Promises which God hath made to Be­leivers generally, to our selves particularly, so that a true Believer does not only believe that 40 Jesus Christ died for the sins of the World, but for his particularly, and so claimes a part and portion in that Satisfaction which he hath made to Gods Justice.

The next thing in order is Repentance, which is a hearty Sorrow and Contrition for sins past, joyn'd with setled purposes and resolutions of a new life.

I know not which of these two ought in right to be first placed, for there can be no true Faith 50 without Repentance, nor no true Repentance vvith­out Faith. They are Twins, as born at a Birth, nor can the vvit of Man devise to separate vvhat God has put together.

Repentance in the Greek is called [...], vvhich signifies not a bare Compunction, or At­trition, as the School men speak, but such a Sor­row and Affection of the Mind, as produceth a Change or Reformation; and hence it is that a­mendment and newness of life are the only De­monstrations 60 and concluding Arguments of a true Faith, and a sincere Repentance.

And this leads us to the last of these Instruments; whereby we are to work out our Salvation, and that is a ready Obedience, and a universal com­pliance with those Laws and Precepts which God hath laid down in his Holy Word as a Rule for us to walk by. And because Reformation and Obedi­ence are more descernible than our Faith and Re­pentance, which are only Acts of the Mind and Spi­rit, we must endeavour to satisfie both our selves and the World of the truth of the latter, by the sincerity of the former.

For trial then of our Obedience, there are Three things to be enquired into. If it be willing and chearful, and not for fear or by constraint; If it be universal and not partial; and if it be al­ways growing and encreasing, dayly getting new Advantages and Ornaments. These are the infal­lible Marks of a good Man and a good Christi­an, and the only assurance we can have of Hea­ven and Happiness, whist we are in this World. This is what we owe to our Selves; and now we shall take a short view of that Duty we owe our Neighbour.

And here (1). let me put you in mind of our Duty towards our Holy Mother the Church, both in owning her Doctrines, and submitting to her Discipline.

There are many Companies, or Sects of Men in the World, that pretend the next, and some the only way to Heaven. To say nothing of the obsti­nate Jews, who had once the keeping of those sacred Oracles that contain the Types and Figures of our Christian Religion; nor yet of the Igno­rant Mahometans, whose miscellaneous Worship seems rather formed and modelled to preserve an earthly, than to get a Heavenly Crown. I shall only put you in mind of the purity of our Church of England by comparing it with some others in point of Ceremonies, &c. that call themselves Christians.

And amongst these, the Greek Church and the Lutherans will find no room in this small Tract. I will only speak a word or two of the Roma­nists, and the Dissenters of our own Country; Men of very different Principles (if you will believe them) and that agree in no one thing, but in their violent Hatred and Ill-will to us. The Romanists complain for our quitting some Ceremonies, that are by us adjudged Useless and Superstitious; and the Dissenters, for that we retain some, though never so grave and decent; these accuse us still of Superstition, those of Sa­criledge; whence it appears, that even in these things we have still kept a Middle [...] way between both, neither burthening the weak with super­fluous Impositions, nor yet descended to those base and slovenly Familiarities with God, which the Fanaticks have both in Words and Behavi­our.

I suppose this Tract will not be look'd upon as Demonstration to prove the Excellency of our Church above others; the Learned Men of our Church have done it sufficiently; however, if a Person unbiassed and disinteressed were to consi­der but this very thing alone, he would be apt to think, even without Argument, that ours had the fairest Pretence, being placed in the middle, the Seat of Vertue her self.

Now since we find our selves thus befet with Scylla on the right, and Charibdis on the left hand, let us mind our Course and Steer steady, lest we suffer Shipwreck on the Rocks of Heresie, or be [Page 14] swallowed up in the Gulph of Schism. Let us beware of the Force and Insinuations of the one and the other, and never doubt our safety as long as we keep within our own Ark, that is, within our own Pale, which without doubt is the best and surest Bulwark in the World against the Me­naces and Dangers of them both.

2. We must be very careful of our Duty to our Magistrate; not only because our own Lives and Interests are bound up in his, but also upon a 10 Religious and Divine Account; for he is Gods Minister and Vicegerent, and he that resisteth him, resisteth the Ordinance of God.

Our Duty to the Magistrate is briefly conclu­ded in these two things, Honouring and Obeying him. The Particulars that these may be branched into would be too large for this little Tract, and make such a Body as this shew disproportionable; and therefore I refer you to such as have pur­posely writ upon this Subject.20

The Third and last Obligation we have to our Neighbour, are the Duties we owe our Fellow Sub­jects, and these are briefly comprehended under the Notion of Charity, that Grace which shall last and endure when the Sun shall be darkned, and the Moon be turned into Blood, which shall be one part of our Happiness in Heaven to all Eter­nity.

It consists briefly, In doing them all the good we can, and forbearing to do them any Evil. Or 30 its parts are giving and forgiving. Giving accor­ding to the capacity wherein God hath placed us, to such as stand in need of our Charity; and forgiving such as have any way injured us, as we hope that God for Christ sake will forgive us.

Nor must we think our Neighbours Bodies the only object of our Charity; their Souls are yet of more value, and as occasion may be offered must always experience our Love and Kindness in Ex­hortations, Reproofs, Consolations, &c.

And thus I have finisht this small Piece where­in though I have swerved from the Method which others have made use of, yet I hope I have omitted nothing that was altogether necessary to a Discourse of this kind, though a Lock of Hair may be wanting, or a Finger not so well shadow­ed, yet I hope I have not forgotten any of the principal Limbs and Members of this Body.

The Doctrines of our Chuch in general are com­prehended in the speculative part of Theology, where­of I was saying the Articles of our Creed were a short Abridgment.

As to those Doctrines which distinguish us from other Churches, and are in especial manner said to be of the Church of England, I refer the Reader to the 39 Articles.

That there ought to be some kind of Discipline in the Church, no body that is well in their Wits will deny; But there are but too many that will not only deny the Church her due Power in it, but will needs make themselves Judges where they have nothing to do but to obey.

We believe that in things indifferent, that is, in such things as are in their own natures neither good nor bad, the Church hath absolute power of injoy­ning or forbidding them as she sees cause, for the sake of publick Order and Decency, of which I am sure she is the only, and indeed the only com­pleat Judge; And I cannot but wonder that those very Men should make so little esteem of the Churches Authority in some things, that are so po­sitive and severe for it in others: For Example, that will deny her power of appoynting Rites and Ceremonies and prescribing a set Form of Prayers, whereas they are so ridged for the same Translation of the Bible which the Church of England useth, and also for the observation of the Lords-Day, of which I am sure they can give no other Account or reason than the Churches Authority.

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To the Right Honble: Charles Sackvile Earle of Dorset and Meddlesex. Baron Buckhurst and Cran­field one of Gentlemen of this Mo [...]. Bedchombe [...] and Ld. Leiutenant of Sussex. This Pla [...]e is humbly Dedi­cated by R. Blome

METAPHYSICKS.

METAPHYSICKS is a Science which contemplates Beings as Beings; that is to say, abstracted from all Matter.

The Etimology of the Word is from [...], which signifies praeter, post, or trans, and [...], naturalis; that is, something besides, above or beyond Nature. Above or beyond Nature, be­cause this Science transcends Natural things, and is above that part of Philosophy which we call Physicks; and besides Nature, because in her 10 Doctrine those Affections and Divisions of Ens or Being are not handled, which Metaphysicks treats of.

And for this Reason it is called Philosophy, ab­solutely and in opposition to all other, because it is the most sublime and noble part of it.

Again, sometimes it is called the first Philoso­phy, because it treats of the first Conceptions and first Principles, upon which the Principles of all other Sciences are founded.20

Sometimes it is called Natural Theology, be­cause it handles immaterial, incorruptible, and the highest things, as far as they are discernable by the light of Nature.

And sometimes they call it Wisdom, because it disputes of First Causes, and of the highest and most difficult things.

The Material Object of Metaphysicks is Being, the Formal Object or Manner of considering Being is as Being: so that Ens or Being is in this 30 definition of Metaphysicks the Subject; Quatenus ens, or as Being, is the Predicate, and makes the Object of this Science.

The Division of Metaphysicks is into General and Special: The General Part treats of the Nature; Distinctions, and Affections of Beings. The Special or Particular treats of their several kinds, as Substance and Accident.

A Being is that which hath a real Essence, that is, a true and not a feigned Essence, and such an 40 one as is fit really to exist.

There is a distinction between Essence and Existence. Essence is that which hath a real Being, though it do not Exist, that is, though it be not in Act, as a Rose in the Winter. But Existence supposes that Act also, as a Rose in its Season.

Again, Ens or Being is divided into that which hath a Being in Nature, as an Horse, an House, Fire, Water, &c. or that which hath no other 50 Being, but in our Thought and Conception, as a Chimera, or any Monster we can imagine that never yet was. And this is called Ens Rationis, or a Being in our Reason.

These are the most ordinary and general divi­sions of Ens, or Being; and now we come to its Affections.

That Ens or Being hath Affections is certain, because there are some things reciprocated with it, which are not at the first Conception we have of it, but follow that first Conception: For Ex­ample, Vnity, Verity, Goodness, to be in Act, or in Power, and these Metaphysicians call simple Affections.

There are some other that are not reciprocated with it, but divide it not as Genus is divided into Species, but as a Subject is divided into its Acci­dents; and so they cannot be so large, or extend as far as the Being it self. Such kind of Affecti­ons are Cause, Effect, Necessary, Contingent, and many other of the like kind, and these are called Disjunctive.

First, We are to treat of those Affections of Being which are reciprocated with it, and they are these three, Vnity, Verity, and Goodness.

By Vnity we must by the way observe, that the Vnity which is the reciprocal Affection of Be­ing is Vnity in General; so Colour is general in the Adequate Affection of a mixt Body; for it is truly said, No Body is without a Colour, and no Colour without a Body: But this is not to be un­derstood of any one Colour in particular, but of Colour in General.

One Division of Vnity is into that which is one by it self, and one by Accident.

Another is into Indivisible and Undivided. Indivisible is that which is neither divided in Act, nor yet in Power: Vndivided is that which is not actually divided, but yet hath a power or capacity of being divided.

The last division of Vnity is into Universal, Formal, and Individual.

That which is opposite to Unity is Many, actually divided.

Verity is the Conformity in the Conformity of any thing with the Understanding.

This is the general definition of Verity; but as it is Metaphysically considered to be an affecti­on of Ens or Being, it is said to be that by which a Being may be known or apprehended by the Understanding, to be real and such as it is: And the conformity and relation of the Being with the Vnderstanding is founded in this Truth. Thus we distinguish between that which is true Go [...]d, and that which only appears to be such: for true Gold hath a certain entity particular to it self▪ cognoscible by the Understanding, which ca [...]t be said of apparent o [...] seeming Gold. And thus we distinguish betwixt a true Body an [...] a Phantastick Body, or that which only appears [...]o be a Body. The true Body is apprehended [...]y us according to the essential and proper concep­tion of Body, but the other cannot apprehend so.

[Page 16] Ens Verum then (or a true Being, as Philoso­phers speak) is that which is apprehended by the Understanding to have a Being, like that which is proper and Essential to such a Nature. So the Office or Business of this Verity is to distin­guish Real Beings from Apparent ones, and there­fore excludes all sorts of Entia Rationis, or such things as only have a Being in our Understand­ing, and no real one of themselves.

The opposite or contrary thing to this Verity 10 is Falsity, which Falsity is founded in the Under­standing only, and not in the things; for Exam­ple, That Metal which only seems to be Gold is false, not but that it hath in it self a true Nature, as a Body of another kind; but it is false Secun­dum quid, and in this sense, that it agrees not with that conception which we have in our Un­derstandings concerning true Gold.

The last simple Affection of Being, is Goodness. Things or Beings are said to be Metaphysically 20 Good, as they have that Essence whereof they are capable; or more plainly, as they have that Essential perfection which is convenient or agreeable to them. And in this sense every thing in the World, whether Substance or Accident, is said to be good.

The other Affections of Being we said were called Disjoyned, because they do divide and dis­joyn it, and they are either Immediate, or Me­diate. Immediate, as Act and Power, Principium 30 and Principatum, that is, the Principle of a thing, and the thing it self; The Cause, and the Thing caused; Necessary and Contingent. These are the Immediate disjoyn'd Affections of Ens or Be­ing.

We shall begin with Act and Power.

By Act we are to understand a Being that doth exist, and by Power that which doth not always exist, but is capable of existing.

Thus a Log of Wood is a Statue in Power we 40 say, because a Statue may be made of it; but when the Carver has wrought it up, it is a Sta­tue in Act. So that this Division of Beings into Actual and Potential is Universal, and compre­hends all the Beings in the World, for whatso­ever it is, either in Power or in Act.

But here we are to observe, that sometimes the Power and Act do consist together, and the Act doth not always take away or deny the Power: For Example, The Act of Laughing in 50 Man doth not at all take away the Power. And yet sometimes the Act doth wholly take away the Power; for Example, A Rule of two Foot long hath a Power of being divided into two Rules of a Foot long apiece; but as soon as it is Actually divided, it hath for ever lost that Power.

But to give you some of the Divisions of Power.

Power is either Vnivocal or Equivocal, as they 60 speak, that is, Power either properly or impro­perly so called; that is Power improperly so cal­led, which is attributed to those things which are never really in Act. And this Power is either properto the Mathematicians or Logicians.

A Mathematicol Power is that which Mathe­maticians feign to themselves, or suppose, ab­stracted from all kind of Bodies or Matter, as when they say, A right Line is in Power a Tri­angle.

A Logical Power is a meer denial of a Contra­diction; as when they say, The Earth may or hath a Power to be removed higher or lower from the place where it is, because such a Re­moving doth not destroy its Essence, and implies no Contradiction. And to this Logical Power is referr'd that which in Metaphysicks is called Ob­jective Power; that is, a Non-repugnance of any thing to be produced by such or such a Cause. Whence it is plain that this Objective Power is not real, because it only consists in a bare Negation of an Impossibility.

Besides this Negation was true of the World, before any thing of it was Created by God, and therefore is a formal Non Ens, or no Being at all.

That Power which is Univocal or Proper, is either Active or Passive. An Active Power is in that which transmutes and produceth any thing in another Subject: The Passive is the Power of being produced, or changed in the Subject.

The Active Power is either Infinite, as that of God; or Finite, as that of the Creature.

The Active Power of God is called Omni­potence, whereby he can do every thing that is not contrary to his own Essence, or implies not Contradiction; for we must not believe, that Gods Omnipotence consists in doing whatever we can conceive. So God can't Lye, because it is contrary to his Essence; nor Create a Man which should be Irrational, for then at the same time he should be a Man and no Man, Rationality being his very Essence.

The Active Power in Creatures is either Ratio­nal, or Irrational.

Rational, which is indifferently free to several kinds of Acts, as is the Will of Man.

Irrational, which is determin'd to one Act a­lone; As the Power of burning in Fire is to burn, which if it be applyed to Combustible Matter can't suspend the Act, but must needs burn.

A Passive Power is divided, first into that which may either be, or not be, which Philoso­phers call Power of Contradiction. Such properly the Power of Contingent things is said to be.

Such a Power hath all Matter under the Moon of becoming a Body Animate, or Inanimate; and such a Power hath a piece of Timber, of being made either a Statue, or a Chair.

Again, this Passive Power is divided into Phy­sical, and Metaphysical. Physical is a power of Matter to receive Forms, either Substantial or Ac­cidental: Metaphysical is the power of any Sub­stance, whether Material or Immaterial, to receive Accidents.

Act is divided into First and Second.

The first Act is the Essence of any thing, as Reason is said to be the first Act; but to Reason or Discourse is the second Act.

Again, Act is divided into Perfect and Imper­fect; A Perfect Act is that which is directed to no further Act: An Imperfect Act is that which is directed to some more Perfect.

[Page 17] Thus Motion is an Imperfect Act, because it is the way to a more Perfect Act, to wit, the Form which is acquired by that Motion; but the Form it self, because it is no further directed, is said to be a perfect Act.

The next immediate disjoyn'd Affection of Being is Principium and Principiatum, the Princi­ple, and the thing Principiated, if we may so speak for vvant of Terms.

A Principle is that from which any thing is 10 made or known, or from vvhich any thing pro­ceeds after any manner vvhatsoever.

To give any thing the name of a Principle, there are these two things required; viz. 1. That it be before the thing Principiated, for so the very Name alone informs us. Secondly, That there be some connexion between the Principle and the thing Principiated; for the Child that vvas born yesterday can't be said to be the Prin­ciple of the Child vvhich vvas born to day; be­cause 20 though the one vvere before the other, yet there is a connexion betwixt them.

The main Division of Principles vvas implied in the Definition, and that is this, Principles are either of Things, or of Knowledge.

There is also another Division of Principles, into such as are Causes; As the Father is the Principle, and likewise the Cause of the Son: And such as are not Causes; As Privation is the Principle, but not the Cause of this or that 30 Form.

Principles are before the things that are Prin­cipiated by them, both in Time, Nature, Order, and Knowledge or being known.

The thing Principiated, is that which hath the same order to its Principle, which latter hath to former. And from what hath been said of Prin­ciples, we may judge of things Principiated.

We come to speak of the Cause, and the thing Caused, or the Effect. 40

A Cause in general, is that by whose Power any thing is.

Its Principal, and first Division, is into first and second.

That is said to be the first Cause which is first and highest in the order of Things, and that is God alone. Or else, that is said to be a first Cause which is the next to, and doth immediately pro­duce the Effect: As for Example, Rationality is the first Cause of all the Properties which are 50 found in Human Nature.

The second Cause, if it be taken in opposition to the first Cause in the former sense, it is then every Cause in Nature, every thing but God on­ly; and so the other first Cause is also a second Cause.

But if it be taken, as it is opposed to the first Cause in the second signification, it comprehends all remote Causes; that is, all those other Causes which have this Cause (called the first in the 60 latter signification) between them and the Ef­fect.

Causes are these four in Number, Efficient, Ma­terial, Formal, and Final.

The Efficient Cause is that which by it self produces any Effect, and so it is distinguished from all the other three. It is divided into Phy­sical and Moral.

Physical is every Cause that hath any real in­fluence upon the Effect, or which doth truly and by it self contribute to the Esse or Being of the Effect.

Moral Cause is such, as though it do not really operate in producing the Effect, yet it has such an influence upon our Manners (as they speak) that it seems to confer something to the produ­ction of the Effect. Such Causes are Counsellors or Instructors; and such as do not hinder when it lies in their power to do it.

Again, The Efficient Cause is divided into the Principal Cause and the Instrument; As the Smith and his Hammer.

It is further divided into Equivocal and Vni­vocal. Equivocal, as when God, the Sun, or the Stars are said to produce any thing: And Vni­vocal; when any thing produceth another of its own Species or likeness.

The last division of Efficient Cause is into Im­mediate and Mediate. Immediate, as when the Sun gives its light to the Earth by its self; and Mediately, when it reflects its light to the Earth from the Moon.

But to speak something more particularly of God Almighty; We must know, that in Meta­physicks God is considered either generally, as he is the first Cause of all Beings; or specially, as he is Himself the first of all Beings.

As He is the First Cause of all things, He may fall under a threefold Consideration in regard of his three Operations, viz. Creation, Conservation, and Cooperation, or concurring with second Causes in producing their Effects.

Concerning Creation, there are many things that may be enquired into, vvhich because they properly belong to Theology we shall omit, and only consider vvhether a Man by the meer Light of Reason may understand and prove, that God is the Efficient Cause of the World, and likewise vvhat he can by the Light of Reason discern of the Circumstances of that great Work.

As to the first, 'tis believed, that by the Light of Natural Reason alone a Man may arrive at the knowledge of a first Cause, by which all o­ther things were produced, supposing no prece­dent Matter at all. And of this Opinion were Thomas Aquinas, Scotus, Halensis, Durandus, Sua­rius, and other Learned men.

But to come to the Proof: The first Argu­ment shall be taken from the nature and condi­tion of the Materia Prima or first Matter of all things; for if we can prove God to be the Crea­tor of all this visible World. We proceed thus:

The first Matter was either from it self, or from something else: It can't have its being from its self, for then it would have the highest Per­fection that any thing can have; that is, to have infinite Power and Vertue, and to depend on nothing but it self for its Being. I say, If it had its Being from it self it is Ens perfectissimum, the most perfect Being of all other, which is ab­surd; for it is the worst and most imperfect of all Immaterial Substances.

It must needs therefore have its Being from something else; that is, it must needs be pro­duced [Page 18] by some other cause. Now if it be pro­duced by something else, it must be either pro­duced by Matter that was pre-existent to it, or by no Matter. Not from some Matter that was pre-existent to it; for that were absurd to say, there was some Matter before the first Matter (for we speak now of the first and most simple Matter.) And if it were produced by no pre­existent Matter, then of necessity it must be Created (that is to say, made of Nothing.) If 10 therefore Matter be by any Cause created or made of Nothing, that Cause must needs be of Infinite Power and Vertue; for no Being can produce something out of Nothing, but that which is of Infinite Power; the Reason is, because there is an Infinite Distance between Something and No­thing, which requires an Infinite Power.

Now if the Power of this Cause which pro­duced the first Matter be infinite, so must also its Essence; for to be Infinite in Operation, supposes 20 of necessity Infinity of Being also. Again, If this Cause be Infinite, then all other Beings are Finite, and depend upon it; for there can be but one only Infinite. And this I think sufficient to prove a first Cause, not only of all Visible, but all Invisible things whatsoever, which is God.

To this Argument some have thus Objected, That to Create there is required an Infinite Pow­er; but no such Infinite Power can be demon­strated, and therefore there can be no Creation. 30

To which we Answer, That it is not necessa­ry first to demonstrate an Infinite Power, and thence to prove the Creation; but it suffices to demonstrate the Creation, and thence to prove an Infinite Power, which I think is done in this Argument.

As for the Argument they draw from that Axiom, Nothing is made of Nothing, we say the Axiom is only to be understood of Finite or Second Causes, and so does not reach the thing in hand.

Thus 'tis proved, that by the Light of Natural 40 Reason it may be known, that there is one first Efficient Cause and Infinite Essence, which is all one as if we said, God. But the Doubt that re­mains is, That if it can be demonstrated that God created the World, may it not be as well demonstrated that he created it from all Eter­nity? Or can it be demonstrated, that it was made at the Beginning of Time, that is, at a cer­tain time?

So that there are three Opinions to be exa­mined; 50 The first is that of the Peripateticks, who think it demonstrable (that is, by Natural Reason) that the World was created by God from all Eternity.

The second Opinion is Theirs, who think that it can neither be demonstrated, that the World was Created by God from all Eternity, nor yet that it was Created at the Beginning of Time; and so they think it possible either of the 60 two may be true, and that neither of the Opi­nions can be refuted by Natural Demonstration.

The third Opinion is, that it is demonstrable by the Light of Nature, that the World was Created at the Beginning of Time. To every one of these we shall speak apart.

We shall begin with the first, where we shall prove against Aristotles own Principles, and a third, which though it be not evidently set down in his Philosophy, yet 'tis plain to Natural Rea­son.

The first Principle is, That there is one first Effici­ent Cause of all things; and this they admit who hold a Creation from Eternity.

The second is, That the first Cause or Being is endued with Vnderstanding and Will; which is plain in Aristotle.

The third is, This first Cause acts freely, and is not constrained by any Necessity of Nature: And this is plain, because Liberty is the very Essence of the Will. And again, If this first Cause did act by the Necessity of Nature, it should have a more imperfect and ignoble way of Act­ing, than Men themselves have.

Thus having laid down the Principles, the Ar­gument follows.

That which Acts freely, can Act when it will, and also forbear Acting when it will.

But the first Cause in the Creation of the World did Act freely.

Therefore it could Create the World when it pleased, and forbear the Creating when it pleased. And so it is not necessary that the World should have been from all Eternity, but it might be Created in time.

And now let us consider of those Arguments, that Aristotle brings to prove the Eternity of the World.

His first Argument is this, If the Motion of the Heavens be not from Eternity, then there was some other first Motion. If there be another first Motion, then that Motion began; and if it be­gan, then there was a Motion before the first Motion; for the beginning of that Motion sup­poses a Change or Motion, because without Change or Motion nothing begins or is generated.

To this we Answer in short, That in the Be­ginning of Time, both the Heavens and their Motion began to be at once; but they were not pro­duced by any Motion or Change, but were Created, and Creation they tell us is no Motion or Change, because Motion or Change is nothing but an alter­ing of state or condition; and this can't properly be said of that which before had no state or con­dition, as the World had not, because it was sim­ply Nothing.

His second Argument is from Time. If Time (says he) had a Beginning, once it was not, and afterwards it began to be; but Before and After, or Sooner and Later, are the very Speci­fick difference, and can't be without Time; there­fore it follows, that Time was before Time, which is absurd.

To this we Answer, That when we say that once Time was not, and that afterwards it began to be; that same Once doth not import the diffe­rence of real and true Time, but only Imaginary, and that was always. Just as Philosophers say, There was before the World was made, an Ima­ginary Space in vvhich afterwards it was made.

His third Argument is this, That either God could have made the World sooner, but would not, or would but could not; or else, that he nei­ther [Page 19] would nor could. The first of these three things is not to be said, because that would ar­gue envy in God. Nor the Second, because that would argue Weakness; Nor the Third, because that would argue both. Therefore it remains that he always both could and would Create the World and so it was Created from Eternity.

To this we answer, That God had from all E­ternity both a Power and a Will to Create the World at the beginning of Time; and that it was 10 neither Weakness nor Envy which made him de­fer it so long, but 'tis very probable it was the greater Manifestation of his own Glory and Power; Because from that late Creation it appeared plain­ly that God did not work by the necessity of Na­ture, and that he needed it not, but was from all Eternity happy in himself.

We come now to the second Opinion, the as­serters whereof are at some difference amongst themselves.20

Some say the World was just as it is from all Eternity, with its continual changes of Genera­tion and Corruption; and shall also continue to all Eternity just as it is, but yet with some de­pendance on the Creator.

But this Opinion cannot be defended, by rea­son of the Absurdities that would follow upon it; for instance take this one. If the World hath continued, and been as it is from all Eternity, and Men have from all Eternity been born, and 30 dyed, it must needs follow then that there are an infinite number of Souls separated from Bo­dies; which is point blank contrary to that Opi­nion of Aristotle, that there can be no infinite number actually. And if they say that this he speaks only of Bodies, and not of Spirits, they may consider, that if already there be an infinite number of Souls, and this number is daily increas­ed; then Infinity may be increased, or something added to it, which is absurd.40

Others there are that would limit the Opinion a little, and say, that the World and the motion of the Heavens hath been from all Eternity, though it may be Man hath not.

To these may be answered, That it is impossi­ble that infinite revolutions of Years, Months, and Days should be past and gone; because Infi­nity can't be past, no more than it can be encreas­ed; and then again there would be as many Days and Months as Years, for they would be all 50 equal if the World had been from Eternity; for infinite Days are as many as infinite Hours, one Infinite being no greater than another.

There are others, that seeing the Absurdities of both these, would yet limit the Opinion of the Worlds Eternity thus. That it may have been from all Eternity, but without all Motion, or Operation till the beginning of Time.

To these we answer, That this were inconsistent with the Wisdom of God, who doth nothing in 60 vain; and as Aristotle says▪ Always doth that which is best: Now it is better, and more con­venient things should not exist, than that they should exist without any Motion or Operation, that is, without any use or fruit.

It may be therefore concluded, That they who assert the World to have been Created in the be­ginning of Time are in the right, and that accor­ding to Natural Reason the World may (now it is created) endure to all Eternity, because it de­pends upon an infinite Being, which supports it. And yet on the other hand it may be destroyed again when God pleaseth; because his Power is infinite; and he that made All things from No­thing, can again if he pleaseth bring all things (I mean except such as he hath declared to be Eternal, as Rational Souls) to nothing again.

And thus we may arrive to the knowledge of the first Cause, and the Creation of the World by the Light of Nature.

We come now to the second Operation of the first cause, which is the Conservation of the World, or Providence. And we assert, That God from the first existence of any thing, doth continually give it Being by his Conservation, which is the same Action in him with his Creation of it; just as the Sun at first enlightens the Air with darting its Rays through it, and conserves and keeps that light with the same Action of darting its Rays through it; So that we have no Principle that is sufficient to distinguish these two Actions, (if we may so call them). Again they are the same in their Principle, and in their Terminus or End; for both proceed from one first cause, and both terminate in one thing, to wit the Being of the thing conserved. But this belongs properly to Theology, and so doth the third Operation of the first cause, which is called its Cooperation with the second cause; and therefore we purposely o­mit to speak any thing of them here.

Thus far of Efficient Causes; the next of Final Causes; and both these are External Causes, whereas Matter and Form are said to be Inter­nal.

The end or Final Cause is that for whose sake or cause any thing is done.

It hath several Divisions; as 1. It is divided into Finis Cui, and Finis Cujus; that is, the end for whom any thing is desired, as for the Sick Man, Cure is desired; here the Sick Man is the end for whom, or to whom.

Finis Cujus, the end of which is not the Sub­ject for whose sake a thing is desired, as the o­ther is, but something different from it, as Cure is desired for Healths sake; here Health is the end of which (as they speak) that is of the Cure.

2. The End is either Formal, or Objective. Formal is the Action about any Object. Objective is the Object it self of the Action. For Example, the last formal end of Man is the Beatifical Visi­on of God, the Objective end of Man is God himself.

3. The End is either Vltimate, which is referred to no other; or Intermediate which is not. Thus the Intermediate end of Eating is Health. The Vltimate or Matter is an inward Cause, out of which any thing is made by its own passive or receptive Power concurring. And it is either Ex qua, In qua, or Circa quam, that is, out of which, in which, or about which.

Matter out of which any thing is made, is 1. either First or Second, or 2 Permanent or Tran­sient.

[Page 20] 1. Permanent is that Matter out of which some­thing is made, and yet the Essence of the thing re­mains, as a Cup is made of Gold. Transient Matter is that which doth not retain its own Essence when something is made out of it, as when a Chicken is made of an Egg.

Matter is called in which, in regard of the Form existing in it.

Matter is called about which, in regard of the Agents operating about it disposing it to receive 10 the Form; so that the Matter is one and the same thing, but diversly considered.

Form is the Reason of any things Essence, or that which makes a thing to be what it is, and distinguishes it from other things.

The first division of Form is into Inward and Outward; By outward Form they understand no­thing but the Copy or Pattern after which and in whose likeness any thing is made, and the Exemp­lars, or Copies. Or Copies are either Real or 20 Intentional.

Real are those Exemplars which do subsist, and are without the mind of the Artificer, and are obvious to sence, and such as Artificers have for the most part by them.

An Intentional Exemplar is the Image or Idea of the thing to be made in the Mind of the Work-man.

Intrinsecal Form is that which constitutes the formed, either Substantially or Accidentally; and hence we have that division of Intrinsecal or In­ward 30 Form into Substantial and Accidental.

Accidental Form is that which subsists in the substance, either in part of it, or in all of it; As Whiteness in a Wall.

The Substantial Form is that which informs any body, and distinguishes it from other things, and is called Forma partis, in opposition to the Matter of that body.

And these Substantial Forms are such as are ei­ther separable from their Bodies (that is can, exist 40 separate from them) or not. Inseparable Forms are only Rational Souls, all other Forms whatsoever are separable.

The Causality of Forms in general consists in the manner of their union to Matter, and their actuating and possessing it.

All Inseparable Forms in Bodies are concluded to be nothing but Matter; But the separable, to­wit, the Rational Souls are perfectly Immaterial.50 And it will here be worth our while to enquire a little into the several Opinions of Philosophers con­cerning the Original of the Soul.

1. The first I shall mention is that of Philo Judaeus, who teacheth that the Rational Soul is a particle of the Divine Essence, and is neither im­mediately created by God, nor yet derived from the Seed of the Parent, but miraculously inspired from God himself. But this Opinion is so absurd, that I scarce think it worth the naming, since the 60 Essence of God is Immutable, and Indivisible.

2. The second is, that the Souls of Men were all created in the begining of the World out of no­thing, at the same time with the Angels, and growing weary and disdainful of Heaven and good things, began to love Earthly things, so that they were cast down by God into Bodies as into Prisons for their punishment. But this we must not allow, because of the many Absurdities that would follow upon it. For why then should God in the Deluge have delivered so many wicked Souls out of Prison, and have left his Servant Noah behind? The same also might be said of the destru­ction of Sodom and Gomorrah, and the preserva­tion of Lot.

Again, it would follow hence that the Resur­rection of the Body would be nothing but a re­turning to Prison again, even to the Righteous themselves.

Again, this would destroy all Philosoply, be­cause this asserts that the Rational Soul was not appointed to be a part of Man, but is a compleat Substance in its own nature, and that Man▪ con­sisting of Soul and Body, is but an Ens, or Being by Accident.

3. The Third is, That all Souls were created at first with the Angels, and sent into Bodies, as the Bodies were prepared by Generation. This Opi­nion differs form the former, because it doth not say that Souls sinned in Heaven, and for their pu­nishment were sent down into Bodies. But the chief Reason why it affirms that all Souls were created at first, is because that Text of Genesis tells us, that God rested or ceased from his Works.

The Error of this Opinion appears, in that we understand or remember nothing of that for­mer State. Nor will it suffice to say, that being sunk into these gross and earthly Tabernacles the Soul hath lost all its Memory of former things; for since it is natural for the Soul to be joyned to the Body, it is not reasonable that by being joyned to its proper matter it should thereby re­ceive so great detriment and disadvantage.

And whereas they object, that of Gods rest­ing from his Works, we understand that only thus, That he then rested or ceased from producing any new Species of Beings.

4. The Fourth Opinion is, that the Souls are be­gotten by the Parents, and that the Sons Soul is from the Fathers as his Body is. To this we shall answer by and by.

5. The Fifth is, that the Original of Souls is not known, nor should we adventure to deter­mine any thing in the matter. A modest thought indeed, but such as Baronius thinks below a Divine and a Philosopher.

6. The Sixth, and that which we hold is, That Mens Souls are not from their Parents, or from any Matter, but created by God, and put into the Matter when it is conceived and prepared for A­nimation.

The Arguments for confirming this Opinion and refuting that of Souls being begot by Parents, are these.

1. If the Soul were Generable; it would be Corruptible. To this, those of another Opinion Answer, That the Soul is Corruptible, because it depends upon Matter, both in its Production and Being, they say; but that it shall endure to Eternity, because God hath determined to pre­serve it: And if you ask them, Why the Soul considered in it self should be Corruptible, They Answer thus; Because if God should cease from that Act whereby he keeps and preserves the [Page 21] Soul, it would presently return into Nothing.

But this Answer doth not satisfie us, Because, first of all, when Divines and Philosophers divide into eternal and fading, they do not then mean that any Substances are eternal, because God doth not preserve them by his influence, but because they can't be destroyed by any action of any Creature; and in this sense not only Angels and the Heavens, but also the Souls of Men are said to be incorruptible. Again, our Adversaries own 10 that Souls can't be destroyed by any Physical or material Action; and hence we infer, That they cannot be produced by any material Action. And why cannot they be destroyed by any material Action? Because their Substance is spiritual. For the same reason they cannot be produced by any material Action, because their substance is spiri­tual.

2. A Second Argument against their Opinion is, That God would have the Soul of Man sub­sist 20 without the Body after Death, but the Souls of Beasts to perish with the Body; and ther­fore he gave the rational Soul a Nature indepen­dent on any bodily Matter, that by reason of that nature it might subsist without bodily Matter. Whence we infer, That the Soul according to its Nature is independent on bodily Matter; And if the Soul in regard of its Essence doth not de­pend on Matter, then it doth not necessarily pre­suppose Matter out of which it is made, nor is it 30 produced by the power of Matter; so then if the Soul according to its Essence doth not depend upon Matter, Matter doth not concur to give it its Being; for if Matter did concur to give it its Being, then the Soul as to its Being should depend upon Matter.

3. The Third Argument is this. No active Power acts beyond its own Genus; But the In­tellective Soul exceeds the whole Genus of bodi­ly Nature, because it is a spiritual substance, there­fore 40 no bodily Power can produce a Soul.

Now every Action of the seminal faculty is from a bodily Power, for it proceeds from the vegetative Power; Therfore an Intellective Soul cannot be produced by that Power; for so an A­gent might produce an Effect much more noble and excellent in nature than it self, which is im­possible.

4. Fourthly, Those that maintain the contrary Opinion are forced to admit of many Absurdities to avoid the force of such Arguments as are 50 brought against it, to wit, That the Soul is not a spiritual Substance; That the Soul might be de­stroyed by a Physical Action, if God did not by his special Influence preserve it; which Assertion derogates not only from the worth and excellen­cy of our Souls, but also from the Divine Wis­dom, which intending our Souls should exist without the Bodies, gave them no fit or proper Nature to do so.

The next Affections of Ens or Being we are to 60 treat of, are Necessary and Contingent; and this Division is very well placed immediately after the former, because things are said to be neces­sary or contingent, chiefly in regard of the causes from whence they proceed.

A necessary thing is that which cannot be o­therwise.

They are to divide Necessity into the Necessity of the Proposition, and the Necessity of the Thing; Where note, that the Necessity of the Pro­position is always founded in the Necessity of the Thing. For Example; because God can't but be Just, therefore this Proposition, God is Just, can't but be true.

And likewise we may here observe, That all those Divisions which are attributed to the Necessity of the Thing, may also be attributed to the Neces­sity of the Proposition: For if the Thing be thus necessary, the Proposition must needs be so too.

The Necessity of the Thing is two-fold; there is one kind of Necessity which belongs to a Thing by it self, considered alone; and there is another kind of Necessity which belongs to a Thing in its order and relation to another Thing, as they a­gree or disagree.

The former of these they call the Necessity of Existence, or simple Necessity, or incomplex; and the latter they call Necessity of the Relation or Cohesion of Things, and likewise compound­ed, or complex Necessity.

The former is of it self, and in its own nature necessary; the latter as it is conjoyned with such and such causes.

The Necessity of Existence, as to speak, is ei­ther absolute, or secundum quid, or in part.

Absolute Necessity of Existence only belongs to God, because he only so exists as to depend on nothing, and cannot have his Being taken from him.

Necessity of Existence secundum quid or in part, belongs to incorruptible Creatures; As Angels, the Heavens and rational Souls, because absolutely they may not be, because they depend on a free Agent.

The necessity of Cohesion belongs not to things considered barely by themselves, but as they are related and cohere to other things.

And if we consider the Cohesion, we shall find that in some it is Necessarium, and one of those things can't be without the other; for Example, Socrates and his Nature. There is another Co­hesion amongst things which may be dissolved, and this is said to be Contingent; As Cohesion be­tween Socrates and his several Accidents.

The Necessity of Existence then is a Necessity in any by it self; the Necessity of Cohesion is that, whereby two or more things do adhere or stick together, not to be separated.

This Necessity of Cohesion is by Philosophers divided into the Necessity of the Consequent, and the Necessity of the Consequence. The Necessity of the Consequent is when one thing so follows another, that they can't by any means be sepa­rated; As, That Man is a living Creature. The Necessity of the Consequence is that Necessity, whereby things that are not by their own nature determin'd or forced to adhere together, do yet so stay together as for the time they can't be separated, and that by reason of the determi­nation of some outward Cause or Supposition. Thus we say, That he who by an irresistible Force hath changed his place, did it by Necessity; because though the Man and Changing of Place [Page 22] be things which are by no means determin'd to stick together, yet by this outward Force they are so united, that for the time they can't be se­parated; for supposing an irresistible Force, the Man must of necessity Change his Place.

Contingent is said to be that which may be otherwise. And this Contingency is either equal on both sides, that is, it may equally be so, and not be so; or else Contingency may be said of those things which are so for the most; or lastly,10 Contingency may be of those things that are sel­dom so.

There are other particular disjoyn'd Affecti­ons of Being, which are Mediate, as Simple and Compound.

1. Simple is that which can't be resolved into more; Compound is that which may: For Exam­ple, The Heavens are a Simple substance, be­cause they can be resolved into no more kinds of Substance; but the Earth is a Compound, be­cause 20 it may.

Composition is either Real or Imaginary.

Real, which either consists of Matter and Form, or of Integral parts, or of Degrees of Intension, or of Essence and Subsistence; As An­gels.

Imaginary Composition is the Act of Reason, whereby we do in our minds joyn two different things together, and make a third of them.30

2. Whole, and its Parts. The Whole is that which contains the Parts contained, so that they are one.

There are two Things to the making up of that which is called Whole.

A Plurality of Parts, and a Union of them besides.

The Whole is said to be either.

1. Essential is that Whole whose Parts are different in Power, but one and the same in Act: 40 And this Whole is either Physical, as the Soul and Body make one Man; and Logical or Metaphy­sical, whose Parts are only distinguish'd by our Reason, as the Species are in any Genus.

2. Integral is that Whole which contains many Parts only by Continuity, or Contiguity, as they speak: And these Parts are either Similar, as Drops of Water in a Glass; or Dissimilar, as the Eye and the Hand in the Body.

3. Vniversal in regard of its Parts, which are 50 Singular, as Genus, in respect of Species; Animal, in regard of Man and Beast, and the like.

4. Numeral, as Ten contains so many Ones.

5. Potential, or Potestative. This Whole con­tains several Powers or Faculties, which like Parts make up the Whole; as the Soul contains the Vnderstanding, Will, &c.

Part is a portion of the Whole, which together with its Fellows is sit to make the Whole.

Parts are also like the Whole, said to be Essen­tial 60 and Integral, or Similar and Dissimilar.

The next Affection of Being, in the Order of our Method, is The same and Another.

The Same is that which can't be divided, or distinguished from it self; and is divided into, The Same by it Self, and the Same by Acci­dent.

The Same by it Self is either generical, as when Man and Beasts are said to be the same as to their Animality; or specifical, as Peter and Paul are of the same Species; or numerical, as Peter is the same Peter being old, that he was when young.

The Same by Accident is said of those things which agree in their Accidents, as when an Horse and an Ox are both White, &c.

Another thing may be understood by what hath already been said Of the Same. Some other Things are only distinct, and some are oppo­site.

Distinction barely distinguishes one thing from another, with supposing any contrariety in them. And is either Real, and such as is found in the things themselves; or else Imaginary, such as we make in our own Minds.

Opposition is a repugnance of things, which will not let them be in the same Subject after the same manner.

Opposition is either Negative or Positive.

Negative Opposition is either Contradictory, as Being and not Being; or Privative, as Sight and Blindness.

Positive Opposition is either Contrary, as Heat and Cold; or Relative, as Father and Son.

The next Affection of Ens or Being, is Uni­versal and Singular. And this Division of Being is only the Act of the Mind; for in Nature there is no such thing found as an Vniversal. But we understand by it something, which con­tains under it many Singulars of the same Spe­cies, or such as we imagine it to be. Singular, or Individual, is that which can't be divided into more things like it self. Thus Humane Nature is the Vniversal, in regard of the Nature of Peter and Paul; but the Nature of Peter is Singular, and can't be divided, nor doth it comprehend any more Humane Natures than his own. There are some that refer Vniversal and Singular to the common Place of the Whole and its parts.

Another Affection of Ens, is Finite and Infinite. Finite Beings are such as are contained in certain determined Bounds and Limits; as all the Crea­tures which are said to be Finite, either in regard of their Number, Quantity, Duration, Perfection, or Essence.

Infinite is that which is contain'd or compre­hended in no Bounds, and is only God, who is said to be in all those respects wherein the Crea­tures are Finite, and more if there be any.

And thus we have done with the general Part of Metaphysicks; We come now to speak briefly of the Special, which treats of Substance and Ac­cidents.

Substance is a Being which subsists by it self, and is not in any other thing as in its Subject; and it is either Compleat, or not Compleat.

Compleat Substances are either Finite, or Infi­nite. Finite are either Corporeal, as Body; or Incorporeal, as Angels and Spirits.

Infinite is only God.

An Accident is that which is in another thing, as in its Subject; and it is either Primary or Se­condary.

[Page 23] Primary Accidents are either Quantity, Quality, or Relation.

Secondary Accidents are either Absolute, or Re­lative.

Absolute, as Quality, which contains Action and Passion; and Quantity, which contains When and Where.

Relative, as Situs or Situation, which signifies the disposition of Parts in order to Place; and Habitus, which signifies those things which are adjacent and near to any Body.

And thus I have finished this short. Tract of Metaphysicks, wherein I have for Method in most things observed the Ancient Philosophers; but in Difficulties, those whom I judge to have the most Reason.

MORAL PHILOSOPHY.

MORAL PHILOSOPHY, or ETHICKS, is that which teacheth Men to live well and happily according to Vertue: It is commonly called that Part of Philosophy, which Instructs and Regulates our Manners; and thence it hath its Name, both in Greek and Latin. Man­ners are the frequent iterated Actions of Human Life, whence at length Habits are produced ei­ther Good or Evil.

It hath been often controverted whether Moral 10 Philosophy be an Art, or a Prudence, or a Sci­ence; but the most Learned of our Modern Au­thors conclude it to be a Science; for an Art they say it can't be, because Arts are only conversant about Corporal Actions and Things: And though it be true, that Liberality, Temperance, Justice, &c. are referred to External and Corporal things, yet Moral Philosophy is only concerned about the Relation which the Mind or Will hath to those Actions.

Again, a Prudence it can't be, because Prudence 20 is only found (according to its Definition) in good Men, whereas the Dicipline of Moral Philosophy may be in the worst men living, as well as Craft or Subtilty of Mind. Like Medea they may know and approve those things which are good, and yet in the mean while be stark naught them­selves.

Furthermore, Prudence consists in a deliberation about the single Actions of our Lives, accord­ing to their present Circumstances; but Moral 30 Philosophy is constant, of undoubted Truth and of certainty, and concerns all our Actions; as for Example, It is not at all doubted, nor can it possibly be the Subject of a Dispute, Whether or no we are to give every Man his own.

In short, That it is a Science, appears from the Definition of Science it self; which is this,

That is properly said to be a Science, which teaches any thing certainly and evidently from true Principles; and such is Moral Philosophy, 40 whose Discipline is always founded on the Acting according to right Reason.

The proper and adequate Object of Moral Phi­losophy are Human Actions, as they may be di­rected to a Moral Good, or an End agreeable to right Reason; where by Human Actions we are to understand, the free and voluntary Actions of the Mind.

It is defined to be a Science, directing Human Actions in order to a happy State of Life.50

Now whereas a Man may be considered singly and as a private Person, as a Husband, Father, or Master of a Family; and likewise in his rela­tion to the Publick, the parts of Moral Philoso­phy, in regard of these three several Capacities are also three; which we call Ethick or Monastick, Oeconomic and Politick.

The Ethick or Monastick part, which is the principal, is again divided into three parts, where­of the first Treats of the End of Human Actions, which is Happiness; The Second of the Principles of Human Actions; And the last of the Actions themselves; and likewise of the Passions, Virtues, and Vices.

We shall begin with the first, to wit, the end of Human Actions, or Good in general.

Good is defined to be that which all Things desire or seek, as it appears good, or conveni­ent to their Natures.

It hath been a great Question in the Schools, Whether any thing that is evil in it self, canbe the Object of Appetite. To which we Answer with this Distinction, That Good is either real or apparent, and that which is really evil or disho­nest, may be represented unto us as Good, under the notion of Profit or Pleasure; and so become the Object of our Appetite or Desire, but yet we desire it not as evil, but under the shew, or appearance of Good.

The most ordinary and best Division of Good is into Honestum, Vtile, and Jucundum, which may be thus rendred into English.

Honour, Profit, and Pleasure.

And every one of these are the proper Ob­ject of Appetite or Desire, and the end of Human Actions.

And here ariseth a Question amongst our Mo­ral Philosophers, Whether Good and the End be one and the same thing. To which is Answer­ed.

1. That they are not formally the same, be­cause Good is defined, That which is convenient: But the End, that for whose sake any thing is done.

2. They are not the same, because they are not reciprocally converted; for though every End or design of an Action be some Good, yet every Good is not the End.

3. But yet they are Potentially the same; for every thing that is good may be the End of Human Actions, as certainly, as that every End is good.

And here they enquire again, Whether every thing in the World acts for an End or not. To this it is answered with this Distinction, That to act for an End may be considered either as it is known, with the means that leads to it, or as it is not known. As the End is not known, so every thing in the World (as well as Man) acts [Page]

To the Rt. Honourable William Pierrepont, [...]arle of Kingston vpon Hull, Pijcount Newark vpon Trent Baron of Holme Pierrepont Ma [...]rers & Herris &c.

This Plate is Humbly DD. by B. Bl [...]m [...]

[Page] [Page 25] for an End, because there is always some End, and means are known, so nothing but a Ratio­nal Creature can be said to act for an End.

To conclude this, there is always some ulti­mate and absolutely last End of all human Acti­ons; and that is Beatitude, or Happiness, which every one proposes to himself, though their Opi­nions of that Happiness be different, some pla­cing it in Riches, others in Honour, and some in Recreations, and the like 10

And now we come to speak of Beatitude or Happiness it self, which is the chief Good, or last End of Man; and that is Twofold, Objective and Formal.

Objective Beatitude or Happiness, is that Ob­ject or thing that makes, us happy, which is something without us; and Formal Beatitude is our own Enjoyment of that Happiness, or the way of its being Communicated to us, and that is within us.20

And hence it follows, that this Objective Bea­titude is something more excellent and Noble than Man himself; because it is that which makes him happy. And this is the very same thing with the last End of all our Actions.

It will be our next business to determine where­in this Objective Beatitude does consist; and,

1. Negatively we say it does not consist in outward good things, those which we call the Goods of Fortune; and that because they do not 30 satisfie the Appetite.

2. Because they are not desired for their own sakes, but for their use; because they are Sub­servient only to the more ignoble part of Man, to wit his Body; Because they are not in our own power, that is, they are many times taken away from us against our Will; And lastly, be­cause many of them, as Honour, Praise, Glory, &c. depends oftimes upon the false and mistaken Opinion of the World, and many times on meer 40 Flattery.

3. Again, it does not consist in the Goods of the Body, as Beauty, Strength, or the like, nor yet in the Pleasures of the Body, as Recreations, &c. Because they are things not desirable for their own sake, but as they are referred to the Soul; Because they are not in our power, for we are not Strong, or Beautiful or Healthful as we please. To this may be added, that these things are com­mon to Beasts as well as to our selves.50

4. And lastly, this Objective Beatitude is not placed in the good things of the Mind or Soul, that is, in the excellent Faculties, Habits, or O­perations of it.

It cannot be in the Faculties, or Habits of the Mind, because those are not desired, or sought for themselves; but for some other thing, to wit in order and for the sake of the Operation of those Habits, and the bringing them forth into Act. And then again it cannot be in the Opera­tions 60 themselves, because those Actions and Ope­rations are in Man himself; and this Happiness or chiefest Good we are speaking of, must needs be without him, and of a more Noble Nature than he is.

To conclude therefore, that God alone is the Objective Beatitude, or chiefest Happiness of Man, and the great end of all his Actions; because in him only are found the most excellent Conditions, and he only can satisfie our wishes and de­sires.

This Objective Beatitude that we have hitherto been speaking of, is without the Man, we come now to speak of the Formal Beatitude that is within a Man, and is really found in him who is truly happy. Let us see now in what part or Faculty this Formal Beatitude is placed.

This Beatitude then is in the Mind; because there can be nothing in the Body to deserve it, especially when we consider that the Body is whol­ly subservient to the Mind.

Now whatever is in the Soul, is either a Pow­er which is natural to it and inbred in it, or a Habit, which is acquired by the Repetition of ma­ny single Acts, or else the Act and Operation it self.

In neither of the two former we know it can be placed, because they are only desirable, not for their own sakes, but only for the Act and Ope­ration; whence it is plain, that this Formal Bea­titude must needs consist in some excellent Ope­ration of the Mind. And hence by Boe [...]us it is described to be A State perfect by the Aggregation of all good things. Now to entitle any Man to this Happiness, it is not absolutely necessary that he should be always occupied in these O­perations; but it suffices that he be conversant in them, so often as his Reason judgeth meet, and human Infirmity will permit.

We assert again, that this Formal Beatitude must be placed in that Operation of the Mind, by which (as far as our condition in the World suffers us) we enjoy that Objective Beatitude be­fore spoken of, to wit God Almighty. Now that Operation of the Mind is Twofold, the Contem­plation of him, and the Love of him. And that this Operation of Mind consists in contem­plating on him, and in loving him both together, but in neither single or alone, is proved, I [...] that the fruition or possession of the chiefest Good, con­sists in being united to it; and hence it is [...]at not Contemplation, but a most firm and constant Love is required in this Operation. For as Contempla­tion excites and stirs up Love, so Love promotes and helps Contemplation. For the oftner we think on any thing that is good, the more vehe­mently we love it; and the more we love any thing, the more we think upon it.

Again, because the Operations of the Mind do very much depend upon the habitude, or good dispositio [...] of the Body, it is also necessary that the Body be in Health, or at least free from such Diseases, as by their grievous pains may hinder the mind from these Operations. The like may also be said of outward good things, as Riches, &c. For he who is always employed in getting what is necessary to sustain Nature, must needs want leasure to attend on Divine Love and Con­templation.

And last of all, Vertue, or the Exercise of Vertue, is not properly said to be this Felicity or Operation, but rather is referred to it. This Felicity consisting in Contemplation; and the Ex­ercise of Vertue is only in outward Actions.

[Page 26] Thus much of Natural Felicity, or Beatitude. Supernatural Beatitude consists likewise in the clear Vision of God, and a perfect Love towards him; but that is proper for Theology.

We are now come to the second part of Ethicks, or Moral Philosophy, which Treats of the Prin­ciples of Human Actions, which are either Internal or External.

Again, the Internal Principles of Human Actions are either such as are Natural, and inbred Fa­culties 10 of doing any thing; and these are called Powers; or such as are acquired by Exercise and Action, and they are called Habits.

Those which are natural to us, and born with us, are the Vnderstanding and the Will; and to these two both the Phantasy and the Sensitive Appetite, (and if there be any other in ward Prin­ciple of our Actions) may be reduced.

The Understanding moves the Will; for it is certain there can be nothing in the Will, which 20 was not first in the Vnderstanding; and then a­gain the Will moves the Vnderstanding, for we find we can easily consider of any thing as we please, and let it alone again when we please.

And now let us see how the Interior Powers or Faculties are moved by the Will, and what command she hath over them. And yet we must take notice (here by the way) that there are some of the Inferiour Powers of the Soul, that are in no ways under the command of the Will; for 30 Example, the Faculty of Vegetation or growing is perfectly without the Power both of our Will and Reason.

The Will moves the inward Senses, which are Common Sense, Phantasy, and Memory, but not absolutely, and altogether as it pleases; for they are in a great measure at their own liberty, and many times are contrary, and refractory both to the Will and Reason also. But the Will moves the outward Members in their Natural and pro­per 40 Motions, just as she pleases, without any Resistance at all. Whence it is plain, That the Memory, Phantasy, and Common Sense are much freer, and more at their own Liberty, than the Locomotive Faculty is, which seems to be wholly in the Power of the Will.

The other sort of Internal Principles are Ha­bits. A Habit is defined to be a Quality or Dis­position of the Subject; which gives it not the first Power of Acting, but makes it Act more 50 easily and steddily; and remain in the Subject, though the Action it self be absent.

And we may observe that this Definition distin­guishes Habit from Natural Power, because it is said Habit gives not the first Power; and also from these Habits which are not Operative, or pro­duce no Action, as Beauty, Strength, &c.

And lastly, it distinguishes it from the Action it self; because it remains in its Subject, to wit the Soul when the Action is not present.60

Habits are gotten, or produced by the Repe­tition of many single Acts; but those Acts must always be of the same Power, or faculty of the Soul, wherein the Habit is produced.

Thus Prudence being an Intellectual Habit can't be acquired but by Acts of the Understanding. And Justice, Fortitude, and Temperance being in the Will, can't be attained unto but by the Acts of the Will.

Some have been of Opinion that Habits are begot by the first single Actions; and that all the Subsequent Actions do but serve to confirm and strengthen the Habit already begot. Others think the Habit acquired by the last Action, and that all the former did only dispose the Power, or Faculty of the Soul to receive the Habit; But it is not probable that every single Action contri­butes something towards the acquiring of the Habit.

Again, no Habit can be increased but by more intense Actions than those by which it was got­ten; whereas it is weakned by those Actions which are more remiss, and only cherished and kept in the State it is by those Actions, which are just equal to those which produce it.

There are others of Opinion that Habit is a great help to that Faculty of the Soul in which it is, as to its ready and easy Operation; but de­ny that Habit is it self alone a Real Principle of Action, since the Action wholly proceeds from the Faculty. To which we Answer, That a piece of Work may depend at the same time both on the Tool, and the Hand of the Artificer. And so may any Action both be Attributed to the Faculty, which immediately performs it, and also to the Habits ready and easy Disposition of the Faculty, so that we conclude it to be a True and Real Principle.

Habits are Corrupted and Destroyed, either by the Destruction of the Subject they are in (as well as all other Accidents); if either the Soul, or the Facul­ties of the Soul Perish, it is likewise certain all the Habits in it must Perish; and also they are some­times utterly expelled by their Contraries, their Subject remaining still whole and Entire. For In­stance, The Habit of Justice may be quite expel­led, and banished out of the Will by Acts of In­justice.

But the great Difficulty is whether a Habit of Virtue can be utterly destroyed by a bare Cessa­tion, or forbearing the Exercise of it.

Some Distinguish very subtilely (but I know not how well) That it may, as to its use, but not as to its Substance. And indeed if we search the matter to the bottom, we shall find that 'tis very hard to conceive how the bare Ces­sation should utterly destroy the Habit; but when Sloth and Idleness lulls it asleep, the Appetite gets new Strength, and so the contrary Habit destroys the former; though it seem to perish of it self, by a bare Cessation of Operation.

And hence it is that the Ruine of good and vertuous Habits is commonly attributed to Sloth, which indeed doth really proceed from the Pre­valence and Increase of the contrary Vice.

Thus far of Inward Principles. We shall pro­ceed next to the Outward Principles of Human Actions. And first of that Principle of Human Actions, which always moves Effectually, and that is God.

And here we must know that God is not on­ly the External Principle of Human Actions, as the Final Cause is, (that is, as he is that Ob­jective Beatitude, and End of all Actions); But [Page 27] also the Efficient Cause. And that either as he is the Universal Cause of all things, and works in us both to will, and to do, or as he Influences and directs that Principle of choosing, which he hath planted in us. In either Sense he may be said to be the External Principle of our Acti­ons.

That God is the Principle of our Actions, in the first Sense is evident, because he Governs and Orders all other second Causes as he pleaseth; 10 and in the Former Sense, likewise is plain from this Argument. That which stirs up the most inward and near Cause of Action to act, is the Outward Principle of the Action. But God does so. Therefore it must be so.

And this he doth two several ways, either by concurring with our Freedom of Will, or else Moving and Inclining our Will to this or that thing. And first God concurs, as the first Cause with the second to produce the act, by this means 20 making up as it were one Entire Cause.

But yet we are told that this general Influence or concurrence of God Almighty, doth not produce the Effect with the concurrence of the Second Cause too, which is our Will. Whence we may learn by the way, That Gods general Concurrence as the first Cause, lay no Fatal Necessity upon our Actions, since the Will is still Free, and Indifferent.

And now we come to speak of Gods moving the Will to Act, besides the Univeral Concurrence 30 we have spoken of. And in this there is more Difficulty, because the Will seems to be deter­mined by God, before she hath made her own choise.

The Schoolmen salve this Difficulty thus, They say that God moves second Causes with such a Motion as is convenient, or agreeable to their Natures; Now since the Will is a Faculty not de­termined to one thing, but indifferently can make choise of any; God doth not move it with such a necessity, as doth determine it to one thing,40 by which means its Motion remains still Contin­gent and not Necessary. The words are Thomas Aquinas. But we believe that God moves our Wills sometimes irresistably, and necessarily; For I do not think that St. Paul or Mary Magda­len (though they would never so fain) could have withstood their own Conversion.

There are some other Outward Causes, which sometimes move our Wills. As the Persuasi­ons and Arguments that Men may make use 50 of, &c.

So likewise Angels either good or bad, may by changing the Phantasie; move the Will. And this may be done not by producing any new Phantasm, which was not in the Brain before; but by stirring and moving the Spirits and Hu­mours which reside there; and so bring to their Mind some past Species or Images.

This they may possibly do likewise by chan­ging the Sense, and that these two ways, viz. 60 by moving of the Spirits in the Brain, and af­ter bringing them into the Organs of Sense; or else by some change of Disposition of the outward Object.

We come now from the Principles of Human Actions, to the Actions themselves, where we shall also treat of the Passions, Virtues, and Vi­ces.

Philosophers do not call all the Actions of Man Human Actions; but only those that proceed from a Free Principle of Acting, which is the Will. Hence is that Division of Actions into Voluntary and Involuntary.

First then, Voluntary is taken largely, for that which we call Spontaneity; and is defined to be a Principle in the Agent, which knows the thing about which it Acts. And here it is requi­red that the Principle of Acting be in the A­gent it self; and likewise that it be carried to­wards the Object, with some sort of Knowledge. And therefore those things which have the Prin­ciple of Acting in themselves, but no Knowledge of the Object, are said to act Naturally, but not Voluntarily. And hence we have that common Description in the Schools, of an Action into Spontaneous, Natural and Violent.

A Spontaneous Action hath the Principle of Acti­on in it self, with some Knowledge of the End. The Natural hath in it the Principle of Action, but no Knowledge of the End. And the Vio­lent hath ever the Principle of the Action Sepa­rate from it, as when a Stone is cast up­wards.

Again, if we take Voluntary strictly, and pro­perly, it is only found in Man; and may be defined, A Principle in the Agent with perfect knowledge of the End, such as is not found in Beasts.

Now we must remember, that there is a Perfect, and an Imperfect Knowledge. The Perfect is when the End is known, and the way likewise by which the means lead to the End; and this is found only in Man, and is the Voluntary that we are here speaking of. The other is imper­fect, when the End is in some measure known; but the Reason and Proportion of the Means, which conduct to the End is not, and this is found in Fools and Children, as also in Beasts.

That which is Voluntary, and the product of our Wills, in this case one would think should be always free (speaking properly:) And yet we find it is not; for though the Will in Man can't be compelled or constrained, yet it may be ne­cessitated: As for Example, To Will that which is Good is necessary and natural to us, and so in this sense is not free. So that we see, that to Will, and at the same time to be Necessitated, may consist together.

Lastly, These Actions of the Will, or what we call Voluntary, are said to be deliberate; not that the Will it self deliberates, but that it follows the Guidance and Direction of the Vnderstanding, which it has well deliberated.

Involuntary in its largest sense is opposed to Spontaneity; but in the stricter sense it is either through Violence or Ignorance. Through Violence, as when a Man is carried whether he would not go; through Ignorance, when through some de­fault in his Judgment or Reason, he does that which afterwards he repents of.

The most common division of Ignorance is in­to Vincible and Invicible.

[Page 28] Invincible is such, as with all diligence and industry could not have been avoided; But Vin­cible is such, as if care and pains had been taken, might. And it is the former of these two which makes an Action Involuntary.

Here Moralists enquire, whether nothing else but Violence and Ignorance make an Action Invo­luntary. The greatest Question is of Fear or Desire, whether they do not do the same thing: For Example, When a Man to save his life in a 10 Storm by Lightning the Ship casts his Goods over-Board; it is questioned, whether this Action be Voluntary, or not?

It is Answered, That such Actions as these are partly Voluntary, and partly Involuntary. Invo­luntary they are, if you consider them simply and in themselves; but Voluntary, if you consider them with their circumstances: for the Man was willing to lose his Goods rather than his Life.

Thus far of Actions Voluntary and Involuntary; 20 We are now to discourse of the Goodness or Bad­ness of Actions

The Goodness of an Action is the conformity of it with right Reason, and the Badness of it is its deformity or alienation from Right Reason: I call Right a good Mind, free from all Fantastick O­pinions, knowing the Laws of God and Nature, and making a prudent Judgment of the Action to be done, according to the intent of the Law.30

And this makes a vast difference betwixt one and the same Action, which Physically and Natu­rally considered hath no difference at all. As for Instance, To kill a Man by private Authority is an Evil Action; but to do it by publick Authority makes it Good, though the Action in it self abso­lutely considered is the same.

The Goodness or Badness of the Action is taken from the goodness or pravity of the Will, for the most part: But Actions may sometimes 40 likewise be said to be good or bad according to their Object, their End, and their Circumstances.

And though it may be here objected, That nothing can be the Object of the Will, or the End of the Willing, but that which is Good; yet we must still remember, that Good is so really or apparently, and when only an apparent Good, it is a real and an absolute Ill. Thus, that which seems Good, as it hath either Profit or Pleasure in it, may yet be Evil in its deformity or digression 50 from Right Reason, and so may neither deserve Praise nor Reward, and by consequence not be Bonum honestum, that is, an Honest Good, which is one Branch of the division of Good.

The last Question about the Goodness or Bad­ness of Humane Actions is, they be all necessarily either Good or Bad, and whether some of them be not Indifferent.

And to this may be Answered, that many Hu­mane Actions, as Walking, Sitting, Standing, and 60 the like, are certainly in their own nature In­different; but as they are refer'd to any End, they must needs be either Good, or Bad; that is to say, as they regard this or that End, they are, or are not conformable to Right Reason.

The next thing which Philosophers consider in Human Actions is the Circumstances, that is, those things which are placed, or stand about the Acti­ons. They are generally reckoned in this old Verse, ‘Quis, Quid, Vbi, Quibus auxiliis, cur Quomodo, Quando.’ That is, the Person which doth the Action, the Action it self, the Place where, the Helps with which, the Reason why, the Manner how, and the Time when.

Here note, that the Circumstances many times add very much either Good or Bad to the Action, nay, sometimes they change the very nature of it; as the Stealing any thing dedicated to Holy uses makes the Offence Sacriledge, which other­wise would have been but simple Theft.

Thus of Human Actions in general; Now of the Species, or several kinds of them.

The ordinary and common division of Hu­man Actions is into Elicite and Imperate; By Eli­cite is to be understood those Actions whereof the Will her self is the first Principle, and pro­duces them in her self. By Imperate we mean Actions of which the Will is not the first Prin­ciple, which yet are not done without the Power or Jurisdiction of the Will.

The Elicite Actions of the Will are either about the End or the Means.

Those about the End are these three; Volition or Willing, Fruition and Intention.

Those about the Means are also three; viz. E­lection, Consent, and Vse.

And now because our Passions have a great in­fluence upon our Actions, in making them either Vertuous or Vicious, it will be convenient to speak something of them both generally and particular­ly, before we come to speak of the Vertues and Vices.

The Spring or Fountain of the Passions is the Sensitive Appetite, which (though it be found as well in Beasts as in Men) we speak now of it as it is peculiar to Men.

The Sensitive Appetite is either Concupiscible or Irascible, and it is necessary it should be so, for the seeking that which is good and convenient, and avoiding of that which is hurtful; and in these two are founded all the Passions of the Mind.

A Passion of the Mind is defined, to be a Mo­tion of the Sensitive Appetite from the Appre­hension either of Good or Evil, with some un­natural change of the Body, Good or Evil, that is, as it seems or appears.

They are called Motions in distinction to the other Faculties of the Soul, which are either Powers or Habits. Powers they can't be, because they are not always ready like other Powers, to be produced into Act; And Habits they can't be, because they are many times stirr'd up be­fore any Habit of them is gotten: And they are called Passions, because both Soul and Body suffer by them.

The Stoicks were wont to number but four of them, to wit, the Passion of Joy, Sorrow, Hope, and Fear; But the Peripateticks have made them by Subdivisions Eleven, attributing Six to the Concupiscible, and Five to the Iracible part of the [Page 29] Sensitive Appetite. The Six first are Love, Desire, Joy, Hatred, Flight or Avoiding, and Sorrow. The five last are Hope, Despair, Fear, Boldness, and Anger.

That Passions are not all Vitious or Blamewor­thy, appears in that Good Men, as well as Evil do Love, and Fear, &c. Again, no Man can commit a Fault, but with his Will, and Passions sometimes can't be avoided though we would. And then again, because Vertue is conversant 10 about the Passions, as about its proper Subject; It would follow, that he who wanted Passion, must needs want Vertue also; and thus it appears, that every Passion is not Evil.

And now we come to speak of the Vertues and Vices in General; and first of Vertue in Gene­ral.

Vertue is defined to be an Elective Habit, con­sisting in a Mean, which prudent Men judge, and make use of in all their Actions.20

Vertue is an Habit of the Mind, which consists in a Medium; and there are two sorts of it; the one proper to the Understanding, as Prudence and Wisdom; and the other proper to the Will.

Vertue is said to be a Habit, that's the Genus, under which it is comprehended, as well as Vice.

It is said to be Elective, to distinguish a Moral Habit from an Intellectual Habit.

We say it consists in a Mean, to distinguish it 30 from Vices which do not; for though Vices may truly be said to be Moral Elective Habits, yet they offend always either in Excess or Defect, (which Prudent Men judge and make use of in all their Actions:) This is inserted in the Definiti­on, to inform us that Men must judge of their Actions, and the mean spoken of, according to the Rule of right Reason. And this Definition agrees with every Moral Habit, except it be Prudence, and that is rather an Intellectual one.

It is here questioned Whether Vertue consists 40 in the Mean, or Middle place, between the two Extreams, which are both Vices. The Answer is, That all Moral Vertue, except Justice, consists in the Mean, or middle between two vitious Habits; As Liberality between Prodigality and Covetous­ness; Fortitude between Cowardness and Foolhar­diness; so Prudence it self between a Crafty Slyness, and Folly or Ignorance.

But Justice must always be excepted; for what­soever 50 either exceeds, or falls short in it, is Jus­tice, and so Injustice is alone and on either side op­posed to Justice. And yet the Vertue always comes nearer one of the extreams than the other, because one of the extreams is always nearer to right Reason.

All the Moral Vertues, except Prudence (which is not purely so) are seated in the Rational Appe­tite, that is, in the Will; Because all Moral Ver­tues being Elective Habits, must needs be in 60 that Faculty or Power of the Soul which makes the Election, and that is the Will.

The Cardinal Vertues (so called, because all o­ther Vertues turn upon them as Dores do upon their Hinges) are these Four; Prudence, Justice, Temperance and Fortitude.

Prudence hath a particular reference to the Reason, Justice to the Will, Temperance to the Con­cupiscible Appetite; and Fortitude to the Ira­scible.

It is a generally received Opinion amongst Moral Philosophers, That he that hath one Vertue hath them all; And it is thus proved, Every one carries along with it Prudence; and Prudence can't be destitute of all the other Vertues, and hence we conclude, That the Vertues are tied together in one common Bond.

Prudence, which is the Governess of all the o­ther Vertues, is defin'd by Aristotle, To be a Habit of acting with right Reason, about those things either good or bad for a Man.

The Subject in which it is, is the Vnderstand­ing, and therefore properly it is an intellectual Vertue; But the Object about which it is cover­sant, is Human Action in general, or whatever is to be done.

The general Office of Prudence is to dispose the Means in order to the End; that is, to direct other Moral Vertues about fit Means to attain their Ends, which is done these three ways.

By finding out fit and proper Means, and this is called Invention.

By making choise of those which are most proper, and this is called Judgment.

By teaching and instructing us in the use of them, and this is called Government, or Command.

The Integral parts of Prudence are the Memo­ry of things past.

The Knowledge or Understanding of things present.

And providing for the Future.

Prudence is a Vertue which consists in the know­ledge of Truth, with a quickness of Apprehen­sion, so that it requirs a diligent search, and a cer­tain Knowledge of what is true: for according as any one is apt to discover what is most true in any thing, and to find it out with great Sagacity, and withal to give a Reason for it, the same is com­monly and deservedly called a wise and prudent Man: Then Truth is the subject he applies him­self unto, and to take right Counsel in order to do what is good, and conducive to a happy life; and such a Uniformity should be kept in all our Actions, that all the Passages of our Life may a­gree together.

Justice, which is termed the Queen of all Ver­tues, tends to the conservation of human Society, by giving every one his due, and justly observing all Contracts and Bargains, not doing Jnjury to any; but to do as you would be done unto.

It hath its Name from the Latin Word Jus, which signifies to do that which is required by the Law both of God and Man.

It is either Vniversal or Particular. Vniversal Justice is that which respects our Duty in order to the conservation and good of the Publick, and the Notion of this Justice is as large as that of Vertue it self.

Particular Justice is that which regards our Dealings with privat Persons, and is either distri­butive, or commutative.

Distributive Justice is the giving every Man his due, both as to Rewards and Punishments, &c.

[Page 30] Commutative Justice is the doing right in Con­tracts, in buying, selling, exchanging, &c.

The former of these belongs properly to the Prince, and the latter to the People one amongst another.

And here we can't without a breach in our Me­thod, omit to say somthing of the Law, which is the Standard, and Rule of Justice, and from whence it is said to receive its very Name.

Law is a System of rational Precepts, shewing 10 Men what they are to do, and what not, in or­der to the Publick Good.

There are Three things necessary in a Law, (1) That it be just, and according to right Reason. (2) That it be made by those that have Authori­ty, and to whose care the Publick Good is com­mitted; And (3) That it be lawfully promulgated, or proclaimed, or else it doth not oblige.

Law is divided into Human and Divine (which is properly the business of Theology). 20

Human Law again is either Civil or Ecclesias­tick.

Civil is that which is in the Power of the secu­lar Magistrate, considered meerly as such Ecclesi­stical is that which is administred by the Church, either as to Doctrine or Discipline.

The Effect or consequent of the Law is Right; that is to say, a Reward proportioned to the me­rit of the Fact; And so the Law, the Fact, and the Right makes up a demonstrative Syllogism. 30 Thus.

Every Murtherer; ought to be punished there is the Law.

Milo is a Murtherer there is the Fact.

Therefore Milo ought to be punished, and there­is the Jus or Right.

Justice is also twofold; the one relates to God, and the other to Men; the first is called Religion or Piety, whereby we pay to God the Religious Duty we owe unto him; Opposite to which are 40 these two Vices, Superstition and Irreligion, each of them odious in its kind. The Justice that re­lates to Men, is either Universal, which gives us the Character of Good Men; or particular, and this is either Distributive or Corrective Justice. In this Distributive Justice must be considered Fi­delity and Gratitude, as amongst these several Re­lations of Subjects to their Princes, and Princes to their Subjects; of Parents to their Children, and Children to their Parents; of Wives to their Hus­bands, 50 and Husbands to their Wives; Brothers, and Sisters; Masters and Servants; Benefactors, and such as have received any Kindness from them; And as we ought to be just and equitable to all Men, so we are more especially bound to do Good for Good, and to retaliate Kindnesses.

To corrective Justice belongs the punishment of Crimes.

Fortitude is a certain constancy of Mind, both in undertaking Dangers, and performing Labours.60 It is sometimes said to be the Seasoner of all the rest, for unless a Man be endued with this Con­stancy of Mind, it can scarce be expected that he should stick close to his Duty, when once it comes to be separated from his Interest.

It is either Active or Passive, as you see in the Definition; Active in undertaking great and dif­ficult things, and Passive in suffering the like. The Integral Parts of them both are Magnanimity or Greatness of Mind, Patience, and Perseverance.

Temperance may in general be said to be any Vertue which observes a mean in moving of the Mind; But especially and most properly it is that Vertue which is concern'd in moderating our Pleasures, that is, the sensual Pleasures of the Body. There are three Acts peculiar to it, (1) Avoyding all excess in Meat, Drink, &c. (2). Di­recting us in the use of them, (3). Seeking what is necessary, to wit, Meat, Drink, &c.

The Subjective parts of this Vertue are Absti­nence, Sobriety, Chastity, and Modesty.

And thus considered it will direct us also in the use of Cloaths, and what else is for the outward comfort and support of the Body.

There is another sort of Vertue, which con­sists in the Will, which hath its proper Matter in its true Object, and relates to Pleasure, Fear, and Boldness. But there are two sorts of Plea­suers, the one of the Body, and the other of the Soul. To moderate Bodily Pleasures there is a Vertue called Temperance, which consists in a right ordering of our Words and Actions.

This is the Vertue that Governs all our Affect­ions and Carnal Lusts, which is an Enemy to all unruly Appetites, directing us to be ruled by our Reason, when we come either to covet, or refuse any thing be it good or bad. This is the Vertue that calms and sedates, that allays and softens our Minds by a certain Harmony. Now this Ver­tue extends not only to Food and Rayment, as also to Buildings, but likwise to Luxury and Carnal Pleasures.

Temperance in Eating is called Abstinence, in Drinking Sobriety, and in Cloaths, and Building, Frugality.

In opposition to Luxury is Chastity or Conti­nence, which relates both to a single and Conjugal Life.

As for the Pleasures of the Mind, they pro­ceed either from Riches, Praise, or Society.

Liberality is a Vertue which is most sutiable to the Nature of Man, and is the disposer of Riches; but there are many things therein to be considered.

First, That Liberality be not hurtful to those who receive it; Secondly, To those that may par­ticipate thereof; And Thirdly, That it be pro­portionable not only to the Donors ability, but likewise to the Persons Estate and Condition whom it is bestowed upon: And herein must be consi­dered his Manners, what Affection he bears us, what Acquaintance we have with him, and what former Kindness he hath done us. Now there are five different Degrees of Human Society, 1; Of all Men together, 2; Of Men of the same Nation, or Countrey, 3; Of the same Society, 4; Of Freinds, and 5; Of Kindred. And we ought to be most kind to those that are nearest unto us and from whom we have received most kindnesses.

In Society two things are to be considered, viz. Anger and Familiarity. Now there are two Ver­tues that moderate Anger, viz. Lenity and Severity, that excluding, and this admitting of Revenge; And as there is nothing more praiseworthy, and [Page 31] becoming a Great Man than Lenity and Humanity; so a Magistrate must sometimes use Rigour and Severity, as a necessary Ingredient in point of Go­vernment: But when he inflicts Punishments, he must forbear Anger, because an Angry Man can never keep a Medium.

The three Vertues that belong to Human Socie­ty are Truth, Humanity, and Vrbanity; there­fore that which is true, simple and sound, is most sutiable and proper to the Nature of Man; and 10 Truth has ever had so much Credit and Power, that it could never be subverted by Human De­vice or Artifice; and although it were left with­out any Support, yet it is able to defend it self.

The Second Vertue required in Human Society is Humanity, which may be otherwise Termed Civility, Gentleness, Affability, &c. 'tis well known how efficatious obliging good Language doth beget the good Opinion and Love of Man; 20 and therefore the higher a Man is raised above o­ther Men, the more humble he ought to shew himself; for then as this Vertue will be the more conspicuous, so it will be the more admi­rable.

The Third Vertue is Vrbanity, which relates to Pastines and Recreations, a thing we were not altogether Born unto, but only fit to be used as a Relaxation in our several Callings or Professions. We should use it as we do Sleep and Rest, for our 30 Refreshment after our Minds or Bodies are weari­ed with the Affairs of the World: and let the Game, or Diversion be Innocent, and free from Vice.

Hitherto we have spoke of those Vertues, that relate to the Pleasures of the Body and Mind; the next shall be of that which concerns Fear and Boldness, termed by Philosophers, Courage and Magnanimity.

Its Objects are all manner of Dangers and Ha­zards, 04 Prosperity and Adversity; for this Vertue raiseth a Mans Courage, and makes him slight such Accidents as usually happen to Man. In Prosperity it makes him Moderate, and keeps him from Haughtiness, and Insolence; and in­deed 'tis a great want of Vertue in a Man, when he can't keep a Medium in Prosperity and Adver­sity; and as in Prosperity we ought not to be In­solent so in Adversity we ought not to be Deject­ed. 'Tis Prudence to prevent Adversities, as far 50 as it lies in our Powers, but when it comes up­on us, we ought to bear it with Courage; and so to carry our selves, as to do nothing repugnant to that State and Degree, that is proper to a Wise Man.

And thus much of the Vertues; It follows now to speak a word or two of the Vices which are con­trary to them.

Vice is an Elective Habit, erring from the Mean, either in excess or defect.60

They have the same Seat or Place in the Soul, whence they continually endeavour to expel one another, to wit, the Will.

Here Moralists are to enquire, Whether Vice be against a mans Nature, or not? In answer to which we must consider, that though mans Nature be really, and truly but one, yet it may be consi­dered either as Animal and Sensitive, or as Rati­onal and Intellective.

The Sensitive part of Man is inclined to that which is sensibly Good, or seems so, though it be many times far distant from it: and yet such ap­parent Goods, whether they be Profit or Pleasure, are many times quite different from that which is honest.

And thus Vice may be said not to be against mans Nature, that is, his Sensitive Nature. For Sensitive Nature delights not in Vice, as it is Evil, but as it appears Good. In short, Vice is abso­lutely, and simply against mans Nature, as he is Man; for nothing is more agreable to Man, as he is Man, than right Reason, which is Vices mortal Enemy.

Again, We see that all Men have a natural in­clination or love for Vertue, because every Man that is in his right Wits praises it, and effects to have it believed he is vertuous, by a most indus­trious concealment of his Vice. Which is enough to prove, That Vice is against mans very Na­ture.

Here they again enquire Whether Vertue and Vice can consist together; that is, in their Habit in the same Person.

If we speak of Evangelical Vertues, as Fidelity and Infidelity, or the like, we say they cannot; Or if we speak of the Will, it cannot at the same time will one Vertue, and its contrary Vice. But yet a Vertue, and its contrary Vice, may be out­wardly acted by one and the same Person at the same time. And again, Vertuous and Vitious ha­bits, that are directly opposed one to another, may at the same time be in the same Person, to wit, in gradu remisso, non intenso. In a remiss De­gree not in its highest or most intense.

Concerning the division of Vice into its sever­al Species or Kinds, we shall need say nothing; For what hath been already said of the Vertues, may give us a full and perfect sight of their Ex­cesses and Defects.

And thus much for that part of Moral Philoso­phy, called Ethicks, or Monasticks. Now follows Oeconomicks and Politicks; the one teaching, &c. our Duty in our Family; and the other our Duty to the Publicks.

Oeconomicks teach a Man how to rule and govern his Family. It hath two general Parts; to wit, he that Governs, those that are Gover­ned.

A Master, or he that Governs, may be consi­dered in a threefold capacity; viz. As a Hus­band, as a Father, and as a Master; And every one of these have their particular Duties or Obli­gations; to wit, Conjugal, Paternal, and Magis­terial.

The Obligations of a Wife, Children and Ser­vants, are likewise parallel to these, and are breif­ly comprehended in Love, and Obedience. As the Master of the Families Duty is in Love and Care, and providing for them according to their several Capacities or Qualifications. For the Duty of the Master of the Family is one thing towards his Wife, another towards his Children; and still different from them both towards his Servants. And the several Duties of the Wife, [Page 32] Children and Servants are distinct and several in regard of their Relation to him again.

Politicks, which is the other part of Moral Philosophy, concerns the Government of the Pub­lick, a Country or Kingdom, and that by good Laws; whereby both King, Prince, and Sub­jects may live happily, and the Subjects in a per­fect Union amongst themselves.

A Politick State is divided into Publick and Private Persons. Those are Publick Persons, who 01 are set up as Magistrates to Rule over the Rest, either in Church or State. Such were amongst the Antient Romans, their Consuls, Aediles, Censores, Praetores, Dictators, Tribuni, Questores, and Senators.

The Private Persons are the Gentry and Com­monalty; in which are to be considered such as are eminent, either in point of Extraction, Riches, or acquired Parts, both Civil and Mili­tary.

20

Next the Persons, must be considered the Me­thod of Government, the Courts of Judicature, the Jurisdictions, Laws, Contracts, Crimes, Tres­passes, Judgments, Sentences and Decrees.

Publick Governments are Administred either By One, By a Few, or By Many.

When a Government is Administred by One, it is called Monarchy: When by a Few, it is called Oligarchy or Aristocracy: And when by Many, it is called Democracy.

And here we are to observe, That though accor­ding to the Order of Nature, Democracy doth preceed both Aristocracy, and Monarchy, (because all, according to the Law of Nature are born free, and are hard to be brought under Government), yet according to the Order of Dignity, and also for its excellency and convenience, Monarchy is to be preferred before both the one and the other, as being likest to the Government of God Al­mighty himself.

Aristocracy, or the Government by a Few, holds the next place to Monarchy and Democracy, or the Government of Many, being in the Power of the People, who Govern by Deputies, or the like, is the lowest.

NATURAL PHILOSOPHY, OR PHYSICKS, BOTH Ancient and Modern.

NAtural Philosophy, or Physicks, is the knowledge of Natural Bodies. The Subject or Object of Physicks is Natural Bodies, considered as Natural.

The first division of Natural Philosophy is in­to General and Special. The General treats of the common Principles and Affections of Bodies; and the Special or Particular treats of the several kinds of Bodies, as hereafter shall be handled.

The common Principles (as Philosophers speak) of Bodies are these three, Matter, Form, and 10 Privation.

By Matter is to be understood the first Matter out of which all things are made, considered ab­solutely without Form or Accidents, and this Matter is purely passive and susceptible of all Forms whatsoever.

Form is that which makes a Body what it is, and distinguisheth it from other Bodies; and there are several degrees of it. Some Forms on­ly give Bodies their Esse or Being, as the Forms 20 of all Inanimate Bodies. Some again give Being, Life, and Sense, as the Forms of Brutes: And some give Being, Life, Sense, and Vnderstanding. And this is the last and highest Degree of Forms, which is only the Rational Soul.

Privation is the absence of Form in a Body, or Subject, that is fit to receive one. Now be­cause no Form can be where Privation was not supposed before, it is by Philosophers numbred amongst those Principles which constitute Bo­dies. 30

The Affections of Bodies are either Internal or External. The Internal Affections of Natural Bodies are Motion, and Termination of Quantity. Motion is defined to be any change of Body, and is directly oppos'd to Rest. In all Motions of Bodies there are principally considered the Termi­nus à quo, or point from whence; and the Terminus ad quem, or Point whither, and the Time; for no Motion is made in an instant, but is succes­sive.40

The division of Motion is into Natural and Violent. Natural Motion is that which proceeds from the Natural Principle of the Body; as when Fire ascends, or heavy Bodies descend towards the Center of the Earth. So the Locomotive Fa­culty or Power in Living Creatures, of removing themselves from one place to another, is also said to be Natural. Violent Motion is that which is contrary to the Bodies Natural tendency, as when a Stone is cast upwards.

In all Motion we are still to remember there is a Circle, that is, a Succession always of a new Body into the place of the Body moved; and this Nature doth to avoid a Vacuum.

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The several Notions of Motion are so difficult to be understood, that some have Problematically un­dertaken to maintain, that there is no Motion at all in the World: For Example, The Motion of a Wheel thus marked, we will suppose this to be turned or moved upon its own Axel. That part marked with A we know is moved, because (according to the defi­nition of the Ingenious De Cartes, of Motion) it has changed its relation to the several Bodies a­bout it, say the Sides of the Room wherein it is. Now whatever is moved, is moved either into a Full, or into an Empty place: Now if A be mo­ved into a Full place, then there is a penetration of Bodies, and it is moved into B; if its moved into an Empty place, there will be a breach in the Wheel, besides a Vacuum in Nature. And what has been said of this Motion of the Whole, may in some measure be said of all Motions, as being Circular. All that I know to Answer in this case is, that a Circle being Infinite, and our Ca­pacity but Finite, we are not able to comprehend its several Phaenomena, no more than we are the Essence of God Almighty. The same may be said of Infinite, or rather the Indefinite extension of the World, and the Division of Bodies.

And thus from Motion we come to the other [Page 34] common Affection of Bodies, called Finiteness or Termination of Quantity; for all Bodies have their Superficies, and are circumscrib'd by Place, and if we take away the Notion of a Bodies Superficies, you take away the very Notion of the Body it self; it being the very definition of a Body to be measurable three ways (to wit, on the Superficies) in Length, Breadth, and Thickness. And therefore that distinction of the Schools, That Bodies are not Actually, but Potentially ex­tended 10 in infinitum, might well have been spared.

The External Affections of Body are Place and Time. Place is that which contains or cir­cumscribes Body, and is just as large as the Body contained, and yet is no part of it; notwith­standing several things are said to be in a place several ways, as Bodies are said to be in a place circumscriptively, Angels definitively, and God re­pletively.20

To Place is opposed Vacuum, or rather the Notion of it; for it is a meer Ens rationis, and there is no such thing in Nature.

Time is that whereby things are said to be sooner or later one than another. The Only (if it may be so called) is that which is not Circular, but goes strait forward.

Time and Motion measure one another.

Thus much of the general Part of Natural Philosophy, which treats of the Common Princi­ples 30 and Affections of Bodies; We come now to the Particular and Special, wherein are handled the several kinds of Bodies, which are divided into these six Parts.

1. The whole Machin of the World considered all together, as it makes one Sphere, wherein are contained both Heaven and Earth, the Planets, Stars, &c.

2. The Elements, as they are the Causes of Mixtion and Natural Changes. 40

3. Of Bodies imperfectly mixt, or Meteors.

4. Of Bodies perfectly mixt, both Inanimate and Animate.

5. Of the Parts of Mans Body.

6. Of the Soul; Vegetative, Sensitive, and Ra­tional.

The first is of the World in general, or consi­dered all together, as it makes one Fabrick.

The first thing in this great Body which Phi­losophers are wont to discourse of is Coelum, or 50 Heaven, which they call a Natural Body Simple, Spherical, Transparent, and Incorruptible, which contains within it all the rest. That it is a Body they prove, because it consists of Matter and Form. That it consists of Matter is proved from its Density, Rarity, and Quantity, which are eve­ry one of them proper to a Body only. And then its very Esse or Being proves its Form; for without a Form no Body can be, although it must be confest, that this Form is no Soul; because 60 none of those Actions which are peculiar to any of the three sorts of Souls are observed in it. Matter and Form then are its Principles; Its Af­fections are Motion, Figure, and Operation; its Motion is Circular, and its Figure is so too, which of all others is the most perfect and capa­cious; Its Operations are by its Motion, Light, and Influence.

'Tis the Opinion of the Peripatetick Philoso­phers, That the Heavens are a kind of fifth Sub­stance, distinct from all the four Elements, Inge­nerable and Incorruptible; though the Elements themselves are said to be Corruptible.

The Parts whereof the Heavens consist, ac­cording to the Aristotelian Philosophy, are these two, Perspicuous or Transparent, and Bright or Shining.

Perspicuous, as the several Spheres or Orbs; viz. 1. The Sphere of the Moon, 2. That of Mer­cury, 3. That of Venus, 4. That of the Sun, 5. That of Mars, 6. That of Jupiter, 7. That of Saturn, 8. The Firmament, 9. The Chrystalline Heaven, and 10. The Primum Mobile, or highest of all. But of this I refer you to the Treatise of Astronomy or Cosmography, to which it properly belongs.

The other Part is Bright or Shining, and com­prehends the Stars, which are either fixed or wandring, which also belongs to Cosmography.

Besides these Stars, there is observed in the Heavens that which we call Galaxia, or the Milky-way, which is thought to be a confluence of many little Stars, which by reason of their smal­ness can't be discerned one from another, and yet by their joynt Light make up that bright place of Heaven so called.

Under this common Place of the World next to the Heavens they use to place the four Ele­ments; and these they consider either absolutely, as they are Parts of the World; or respectively, as they are the Causes of Mixtion and Natural Changes in other Bodies.

An Element is defined to be a simple Body, in­to which other Bodies are resolved; and it will be hard to find any Body that has not some of the four Elements in it. They are oft-times also changed into one another, as Water into Air, Air into Water, and the like. In their own places they are neither light nor heavy, but being set in an Unnatural place, the heavy, as the Earth and Water, tend downwards; and the light, as Fire and Air, fly upwards.

But to speak a word or two of each in par­ticular, I shall begin with the highest in place, which is Fire.

Fire is a dry Element, and is the lightest of all other, which is the cause that it has the highest place of the Elements, under the Concave or Sphere of the Moon.

And whereas some have frivolously objected, That then it would feed upon all the Bodies next it, as upon Fuel, and so destroy whatever there is of mixt or compounded Bodies below it. We are to take notice, that there is a great deal of difference betwixt this Elementary Fire and our Culinary Fire, or that which is of ordinary use. For shining, or giving light and burning is not Es­sential, or Part of the Being of Fire, as it is an Element; but it is an Accident, which proceeds from the Subject or Matter which burns. And this is easily proved from the density or rarity of it, or from its degrees of intension, according to the quality of the Matter in which it is: For Example, The flame of Pitch is much hotter or more dense, than that of Spirits of Wine; and a [Page 35] Red-hot-Iron will burn much more than any Fire in Straw, or the like; so that it seems the Elemen­tary Fire does not burn as our ordinary Fire, because of its rarity of thinness: And this is also the Reason that it is not seen, it being much thinner or rarer than either Wind or the Air; whereas dense or thick Bodies only are the Object of Vision.

Again whereas our Culinary Fire stands in con­tinual need of Fuel to preserve it, this Elementa­ry 10 does not, because it is not subject, like the o­ther to the Injuries of contrary Bodies, and such as do naturally destroy it, as too much Water, or the like.

Air is a light Element, moderately Hot, but the most Moist or Fluid, and fills every place below the Fiery Region, which is not filled or supplied by some other Body.

It is divided into three Regions, the highest, middle, and lowest. The highest reaches from the 20 Fiery Region to the Middle Region, and is hot, by reason of its vicinity to the Fiery Region, and al­so from the violence of the Motion of the Hea­vens. The middle is that which lies between the highest and the lowest, and no Vapors or Ex­halations arise higher than this Region; and it is Cold, because the Beams of the Sun are reflected no higher from the Earth than to the uppermost part of the lowest Region.

The lowest Region of Air takes up that space 30 betwixt the Surface of the Earth and the middle Region, viz. just as much as is warmed by the reflexion of the Sun. Now because the Sun-beams are reflected higher in Summer than in Winter, it follows, that the lowest Region of Air is greater in Summer than in Winter, and the middle Region less.

That the Air, considered as an Element, is moderately hot is proved, because it is generated from Heat; as when Water is made Air by 40 evaporation over the Fire, and contrariwise, be­cause its reduced again into Water by Cold, as we see on the Surface of Marble and other Stones, in Sellars or Damp places. Again, the Air is light, and we know that lightness is a consequent of heat.

Water is a moist and ponderous Element, the coldest of all others, flowing between several parts of the Earth, and with it makes one en­tire Globe. 50

That it is the coldest of all the Elements is proved, because it is the most contrary, and makes the greatest opposition to Fire, which is the hottest.

And that the Surface of the Water, as well as of the Earth is Globular, appears from this Ex­periment in Navigation; Men do by little and little lose sight of the Earth as they Sail farther from Land; first they lose the sight of the Earth, then of the Trees, and lastly of the Hills and 60 Mountains, which can't possibly proceed from any other Cause than its round or rising Surface, in­terposed betwixt the Ship and Land; but this is the proper entertainment of another Science.

Earth is a cold Element, the dryest and most ponderous of all others, and is placed in the Center, according to the Ancients. That it is dryer than the fiery Element, is proved from the definition which Philosophers give of Dryness; Siccity or Dryness of any thing (they say) consists in its being easily contained in its own bounds, by which they mean no more than this; That thing is said to be Dry whose parts are easily kept together, as all Bodies of a firm consistence, such as the Earth is. Humid, on the contrary, is that whose parts are not easily kept together; so that according to the definition for Humidity, I think we may very well and properly use Fluidity, and for Dryness, Consistence. And then it will be plain and easie, that the Air is more humid than the Water, because it is more fluid, which appears, because it enters where Water can't. And so the Earth is dryer than Fire, be­cause it is of a finer consistence, or is not so easily separated. And this same consistence or closeness of the Parts, which they call Density, is the reason also, that the Earth is the most pon­derous of all Elements.

I shall here take further notice only of these two Affections, its Figure and Motion.

As to its Figure it is Globular, as aforesaid.

This they prove by many Arguments; but I shall only in passing give you these two. First, From its Shadow, which is round, and so must the Body be also: Secondly, From the Rising and Set­ting of the Stars.

It has been much controverted amongst Phi­losophers, whether the Earth have any Motion, or not. Aristotle, and some others of the Ancients, that thought the Earth had no Motion, were wont to use this Argument; If the Earth have any Motion at all, then that Motion is either Na­tural or Violent; but it can be neither Natural nor Violent: Ergo, It can't be Natural, because being in its own Center and place where it would be, it must like all other Bodies (in their proper places) rest and be quiet. And Violent it can't be, be­cause that Violence would in time cease; it being a received Maxim, That no Violent thing is per­petual.

To this I answer, That its Motion may be as Natural to it, for ought we know, as that of the Primum Mobile; for its weight and gravity can never be supposed to make it stand still, because nothing is heavy in its own place, whence it is confest the Earth is situate, and cannot weigh at all. This I would have understood of the Earths being moved about its own Axel; and I believe you may as well say, the Motion of the Primum Mobile may come to cease, because at first it was Violent. We are not therefore to enquire into the Cause or Reason of its Motion, it will be enough for us to solve all the Phaeno­mena in Nature, that depend thereupon, by sup­posing it; for those Postulata are common in all the Doctrine of Astronomy, whither of right this Motion of Earth pertains.

But methinks again, it is contrary to the order of Nature that the Earth should stand still, and the rest of the World move round about it, be­cause Nature does always things the shortest way. Now for the Heavens to be moved about the Earth, as their Center, must needs suppose such a rapidity and violence, especially in the highest [Page 36] of them, as is scarce conceivable; whereas this may easily be avoided, by supposing the Earth it self to be moved.

And now we come to consider the Elements as they are, the Cause of Mixtion and Natural Chan­ges.

In the Elements as they make up Mixt Bodies, we are to consider these several things.

Qualities, Action and Passion, Alteration, Gene­ration, and Mixtion.10

Qualities are either first or second, or hidden Qualities, as Philosophers say.

The first Qualities are these four, Heat, Cold, Moisture, and Dryness; and from these arise no less than fourteen Second Qualities, as they call them, viz. Density and Rarity, Gravity and Levity; Hardness and Softness; Thickness and Thinness, which proceeds from Dryness and Moist­ness; Slipperiness and such a Degree of Dryness as is directly opposite to it; Toughness and Brittle­ness; 20 Roughness and Smoothness.

Their Occult Qualities are scarce worth the Naming, because when they are able to give no Natural Reason of any thing, they use to say it is a hidden Quality, or it is done by Sympathy or Antipathy, which in plain English is as much as to say we know not how.

In the next place we are to speak of Action and Passion, and this we can't do without speak­ing of Contact or Touching, which is the neces­sary 30 manner of things working upon one ano­ther.

Now this Contact is said to be proper, or im­proper. Proper is a true and Corporal touching, as when the Superficies of two Bodies do so meet and touch one another, that they move one an­other, and are moved one by the other. Im­proper or Vertual, is when the Vertue or Emanati­ons of one Body, at a distance work upon a­nother so as to produce some effect, as the Sun warms the Earth, the Loadstone draws up 40 Iron, &c. By both these ways of Touching the Action and Passion, or Agent and Patient, work one upon the other. That which works or pro­duceth the effect in the other, is called the Agent, and Work it self in respect thereof, is the Action; that which is wrought upon, or in which the ef­fect is produced is called the Patient, in respect of which the Work is called Passion. And it must be always remembred, that as there is some likeness between the Agent and the Patient, other­wise 50 a thing might be said to work upon it self, that is to say, to Assimulate or make it self like it self, which vvere absurd.

Alteration is the change of any Quality or Ac­cident in a Body, and differs from Generation, in this, that Generation alters the whole Substance; and yet Alteration is as it were the way and Com­panion of Generation.

Generation is a Change from Privation (that is an Aptitude, or readiness to receive a Form) to 60 a Form (that is, an Essence which distinguishes any thing from all things else) in matter.

The Causes of Generation are four, The Effici­ent, the Matter, the Form, and the End.

The Efficient Cause in Generation is either Re­mote, as the Influence, Light and Motion of the Heavenly Bodies; and the next which is the thing begetting, which endeavours to produce another thing like it self.

The Material Cause is also either Remote, which is the first Matter which carries always with it the Principle of Privation, and is capable of all Forms, or next which is a Mixture of the four Elements.

The Formal Cause is the very Substantial Change it self, that is, from Privation to Form.

The Final Cause of Generation is the Conservation of the Species, because Nature abhors Destructi­on.

Corruption is directly opposite to Generation, and implies a Change from a Form to a Privation again. And hence it is, that the Corruption of a thing is always the Generation of another; for Matter (I mean that which I called the next Matter of any thing) which is a Mixture of the four Elements, can't possibly subsist without a Form, but so soon as it lays down or loseth one Form, it takes up or receives another.

Mixtion is the Union of two different Bodies, which are capable of being Mingled.

The Word is taken in its largest Sense for any sort of Mixture, as that of Barly, or any other Grain with Wheat. But strictly and Philosophical­ly for such a Mixture of the Elements, whereby they wholly lose their first Forms, and acquire a new one, which is the Form of the Mixt Bo­dy.

The Conditions or Circumstances required here­in, are either such as belong to Bodies mingled, or such as belong to the Act or Mixtion it self.

In the Bodies mingled, it is required that they should both be Agent and Patient, so that this be easily made small, that there be an exactness in the Quantity and Proportion.

In the Act or Mixtion it self are required a due meeting, or joyning of the Elements toge­ther, their Acting one another, and a Division of them into very little parts, which can't be done without Humidity. And the Consequence of this Mixtion is called Temperament; which is nothing else but the Complexion of the four first Qualities, as they are found in the Mixt Body, to wit Heat and Cold, Dryness and Moist­ness.

The next thing in our Order to Treat of, are Bodies imperfectly Mixt, or Meteors.

Meteors are Bodies imperfectly mixt, which are generally from the Exhalations of the Earth or Water, being Raised by the Heat of the Sun, or the Vertue of the Stars.

In this Discourse of Meteors, these three things, are to be taken notice of, their Causes, Place, and Division, or several Kinds.

Their Remote Causes are the Heavenly, which by their Influence exhale and raise up the matter of them.

The next or Instrumental Cause is either Heat or Cold. Heat by piercing into the Earth or Wa­ter Rarifies them, and raiseth them up into the Air, and Cold unites and condenses them above, when they are thus raised.

This for the Efficient Cause, the Material Cause [Page 37] is either the Remote with the Elements, but for the most part Water or Earth, or the next Cause, which is either Vapour or Exhalation.

A Vapour is hot and moist, and proceeds from Water; an Exhalation is hot and dry, and comes from the Earth; and there are these two sorts of it, one which easily takes Fire, being Matter of Fiery Meteors, the other not, being Matter of Winds.

The place of these Meteors is for the most part 10 the Air. For even those that are generated in the Caverns of the Earth, are generated in the Air, that is, the Air that fills those Caves.

They are divided into these two sorts, viz. into Hypostatical, that is, such as are Real Sub­stances, and Emphatical, or such as only make a shew or Appearance.

Those that are Substantial are again Subdivided into three Species or Kinds; Fiery which are from Exhalations easily Inflamable; Watery which are 20 from Vapours; And Airy which are produced by Vapours and Exhalations mixt together.

There is another Division of Meteors into pure and mixt, pure are such whose Matter is simple and pure, and are either Generated in the Highest, Middle or Lower Region of the Air. Those that are generated in the Highest Region, are called Torches, Beams, or Perpendicular Fires, Fiery Darts, Dancing Goats, Flying Sparkles. &c. A Torch is a Meteor of a thin and rare Substance,30 which being set on Fire, all the upper end resem­bles a lighted Torch. A Beam, or Perpendicular Fire is long and more compact, and being set on Fire shews like a Beam, hanging right downward. A Fiery Dart consists of grosser and subtiler, or rarer Parts equally mixt together, which being kindled and flying upwards, resembles a Dart or Arrow. Dancing Goats are so called, when the Me­teor is divided into Two Parts, and being set on Fire, seems to leap and skip like Goats. 40

Meteors generated in the Middle Region of the Air, are either Falling Stars or Burning Lan­ces. A Falling Star is a round Meteor, which being set on Fire, and by some Cloud droven down­wards, shews as if a Star fell from Heaven; others are of Opinion that the Exhalation it self is as long as the Line, in which the Stars seem to fall, and being lighted at one end like a Train of Gun-powder, takes Fire in a Moment.

A Burning Lance is of the same Substance with 50 a falling Star, only the Matter differs in Fi­gure, representing a Lance or Spear all the way it falls.

Meteors generated in the Lower Region of the Air, are either Fiery Dragons, or Ignes Fatui that is, Going Fires. A Fiery Dragon is a Great Ex­halation, which being raised a great Height in the Lower Region of the Air, and there sets on Fire by its oblique and crooked Motion, resembling a Flying Serpent or Dragon, as our Philosophers 60 fancy.

Ignes Fatui, or Going Fires are of two Sorts, the grosser is commonly seen in Low Grounds, or Marshes, oft times making People mistake their way.

The more Subtile or Finer is called Ignis Lam­bens, because it sticks sometimes to Mens Cloths▪ to Horses Heads or Mains, to the Shrouds and Rigging of Ships and the like, and yet doth no hurt, by Reason of its great Subtilty.

Now the manner of setting most of these Me­teors on Fire, is conceived to be either the Swift­ness and Violence of their Motion, as Millstones and the Wheels of Carts and Coaches, which some­times by their Motion produce Fire; or else by an Antiperistasis as they speak, which is a Vio­lent Fighting or Opposition between Heat and Cold, just as Stacks of Hay laid together before they be dry, grow hot, and sometimes take Fire.

These are the Meteors which are called pure, by Reason they consist altogether of Exhalations from the Earth. And now we come to speak of such Meteors as the Philosophers call Mixt; be­cause the Exhalation is mixt with Vapours, which are drawn up, as we said before, from Water, and are more impure, gross and Viscous.

And these mixt Meteors are such as continue for a certain Space, as Comets, or else such as by Reason of the little quantity of Mattter are sud­denly Dissipated, as Thunder.

A Comet has its Name from the Beard, or Tail which always accompanies it. Some have been of Opinion that Comets are either a Con­junction of several Planets together, or else an extraordinary Appearance of one Single Planet. The former Opinion is refel'd; because a Comet is sometimes seen when there is no Conjunction of the Planets; as likewise because the Planets are never seen, without the Zodiack, whereas Comets oft times are.

Again, no Comet can be a single Planet, because the Planets are always, or at least for the most part seen in Clear Nights, but Comets never; as also because no Planet, or Fixed Star is ever In­creased or Diminish't, which as Experience teach­es us Comets are.

A Comet is defined to be a Fiery Meteor, com­posed of a Dry Viscous and plentiful Exhalation close compacted together, raised up into the Higher Region of the Air, and being there set on Fire, shews like a great Star.

Philosophers say that all Comets are set on Fire, ei­ther by the violent Motion of the upper Region of the Air, or else by some little Sparks of the neighbouring Elementary Fire, which fall upon the Exhalation. The Matter of them appears to be a Fat, Gross, and very Plentiful Exhalation; because at such times as Comets appear, there are commonly great Winds and Droughts, the reason of which is the great Plenty of Terrene Exhalations, which at that time fill the Air.

The Affections of Comets are Place, which is the upper Region of the Air; and Time either of their Apparition or Duration.

The time of their Apparition is for the most part in the Autumn, there then being the greatest Plenty of such Exhalations, as are the Subject Matter of them.

The time of Duration is uncertain, which is determined by the Quantity of their Matter, though few are observed to continue more than Six Months, or less than seven Days.

[Page 38] Their last Affection is Colour, which is diffe­rent according to the rarity or density of their Matter.

Thunder is a fiery Exhalation, which breaks from the Clouds with great force and vio­lence.

It is generated by being inclosed, as in a Coat or Skin, and afterwards set on Fire, either by the violence of its Motion, or by an Anteperistasis. Its Motion is very regular for this Reason, be­cause 10 the Fire would naturally ascend upwards, and the Force with which it breaks through the Clouds presses it downwards.

The Accidents of it are these, its great Sound, and its sudden Shining. The reason of the Sound or Noise is its breaking through the Cloud, which is no longer able to contain it, by reason of its rarifaction, as soon as it is set on fire, like Powder in a Gun.

Its Shining, which we call Lightning, is nothing 20 but the appearance of the Fire at the breaking of the Cloud, which we see a good while before we hear the Blow or Noise. Sometimes we see the Lightning, and never hear the Thunder, which is either, because the Cloud is broken with less vio­lence, or it may be by reason of the great di­stance, or both.

Watery Meteors are begotten either in the mid­dle Region of the Air, or in the lower, or in the Caverns or Hollows of the Earth. 30

Those that are begotten in the middle Region of the Air are either Clouds, or Rain, or Snow.

A Cloud is a Vapor raised up into the middle Region of the Air, and there condensed by the coldness of the Place.

The Efficient Causes of it are the Sun and Stars, which exhale Vapors from the Sea, Rivers, and moist Grounds; and the Cold gathers and condenses those Vapors into the consistence of a Cloud. 40

The Material Cause is the Vapor it self, so raised by the Sun, and condensed by the Cold.

Rain is a Cloud dissolved into Water, and is either Natural or Prodigious; Natural, when it falls down in great or small Drops of Water on­ly. Prodigious, as when Frogs, small Fish, or the like, descend with it, which are generated in the Air from the same Vapors or Matter, which were fit to have generated them below, before they were raised by the power of the Sun or Stars. 50

Snow is a Cloud frozen together before the Vapor be dissolved into Drops, by the intense or vehement Cold of the middle Region of the Air, and the reason of its whiteness is the many little Particles of Air frozen up amongst it, which if the Pores were strait, as in Horn, Glass, or Ice, the Body would be transparent.

Watery Meteors, which are generated in the lowest Region of the Air, are either Hail, Dew, Hoar, Mist, or Ice. 60

Hail is Rain frozen in the Air, and is made by the Freezing of the Drops of a Cloud dissol­ved into Rain, as it falls to the ground.

Dew is a subtil or thin Vapor raised from the Earth by the heat of the Sun, but to no great height; so that as soon as the Sun is Set, is condensed by the Cold of the Air, and so de­scends upon the Earth again by its own weight.

Hoar is also a thin Vapor, raised not far from the Earth by the Sun, which in the falling down is again frozen into the form of Salt.

Mist is a thick Vapor, raised from the Earth most commonly by the Rising or Setting of the Sun, which being condensed by the Cold ob­scures the lowest part of the Air.

Ice is Water congealed in Ponds, Rivers, Lakes, &c. by the extremity of Cold.

In the Caverns or Hollows of the Earth are generated Fountains, Rivers, and Seas.

Fountains without doubt are generated in the Caverns of the Earth of Air, which striking a­gainst the Sides of them is there condens'd into Water, as we see on the Walls of Vaults and Sellars; where, as the Drops grow big, they trickle down, and meeting in the lowest place they joyn together, and come out in Springs or Fountains.

Thus Supposition makes it very intelligible, how Fountains should be perpetual, because the Air perpetually enters those Caves, and is per­petually there condensed.

Nor do I think by any means impossible to make an Artificial Spring, by building several Arches or Vaults of fit and convenient Stone, whose Sweating or Drops might by little Chan­nels on the Ground be brought to make a Spring or Fountain.

Furthermore, it adds something to the likely­hood of this Opinion, that Hilly-Countreys, as the Alps, &c. have more Springs than Plain-Countreys (as Holland, where are very few) because there are more Caverns in the Earth there.

Rivers are a confluence or meeting of Foun­tains, and so is the Sea of Rivers; only there are some Qualities and Affections of the Sea, which will be very necessary in this place to enquire in­to; viz.

1. Since all Rivers flow continually into the Sea, how comes it to pass that it doth not over­flow its bounds, and cover the whole Earth? The Reason is, because as much Water as is brought into the Sea by the Rivers, is exhaled up again by the heat of the Sun, which rarifies it so, that it is scarce or very seldom perceived. So that in this, as well as in many other Courses of Nature, there is a perpetual Circulation.

2. Another thing we are to enquire after, is the Saltness of the Sea. Since all the Rivers that flow into it are fresh, how comes it to pass that the Sea it self is Salt?

To this may be Answered, That the Sun by lying upon its vast Surface continually exhales many of the thinnest and subtilest Parts of it, and leaves the more Gross and Earthy behind, which being in some measure concocted and heated in the Sun, do thereby acquire that Salt savour. There are many Reasons that confirm this; As,

1. When we boyl Salt-Water, we find that the Parts which evaporate are Sweet and Fresh, and those that remain become the more Salt.

2. Another Argument is, That the Water of [Page 39] the Sea in Summer is salter towards the South; which is, because the heat of the Sun hath there exhaled more of the Sweet or Fresh parts.

Lastly, The Sea-Water is by experience found to be salter at the Top than the Bottom; which is, because the Sun hath taken away the Fresher and Sweeter parts next the Surface.

3. The last Affection of it is the Tide, or Flux and Re-flux.

That the Great Philosopler Aristotle should 10 drown himself, because he could not dive into this secret in Nature, I believe is but a Fiction; But certain it is, that in all those Books of his there is not a Word of it; yet his Scholars, and most of the old Philosophers, having considered the exact correspondence between the Tide and the Moon, and also between the Moon, and many o­ther Watry Bodies have ascribed the Tides to the influence of the Moon; though for my part I can­not see any Natural Connexion between the Cause 20 and the Effect, which is the first thing should be enquired into. And if there be no other Reason to be assigned, but their exact keeping of Time. I can't see why the Full Moons may not as well be said to depend on the Spring Tides; but it may be there is a third thing yet undiscovered, which is the cause of both. In short, whatever hath been offered hitherto by any, hath given some Men no great Satisfaction, especially when they call to mind the setting of Currents, and the vast 30 difference of Tides, both in respect of Time and Measure. However all conclude, that the end or design of Nature (which still does every thing for the best) is hereby to keep the Waters of the Sea from any Stench, Putrefaction, or Corruption, which of necessity must happen if they did stag­nate or remain unmovable.

Airy Meteors are either Winds, or Earth-quake; Wind, the Philosophers say, is a copious Exhala­tion raised by the Sun and Stars to the middle 40 Region of the Air, and thence violently driven back again by the coldnesss and density of that Region: The Matter of this Exhalation should seem to be hot and dry, because it is observed that Winds are most frequent at such times as these Exhalations do most abound.

An Earth-quake is a Trembling of the Earth, proceeding from certain hot and dry Exhalations, shut up within the Bowels of the Earth, and en­deavouring to get forth.

Thus of Substantial Meteors; Those Meteors 50 that are only apparent I shall in brief name, which are these Five, 1; Vocugo, which is a Gulph or Ditch, 2; Halo, which is a certain brightness about the Moon, or any Star, 3; Virge, or Rods, from the resemblance which the Beams of the Sun make by refraction, when they fall upon a Watery Cloud, 4; Parrelins, which is the Image of the Sun, re­fracted in some thick and Watery Cloud near its own Body, and which seems to stand still some­time according to the disposition of the Clouds a­bout 60 the Sun; and there are more of them than one: The same happens sometimes also to the Moon, 5; And last, is the Rain-Bow, which is nothing but Reflection of the Rayes of the Sun from a Watry-Cloud near the Earth; It is always a part of a Circle, but greater or less, as the Sun is nearer or further from the Horizon.

The next thing in our Method is to speak of Bodies perfectly mixt.

A Body perfectly mixt, is that which has a per­fect Form of its own, distinct from that of the Elements.

The Affections of the Bodies perfectly mixt pro­ceed from their Qualities which are either Active, as Heat and Cold; or Passive, whereby they are said to be capable of Melting, Softning, Bending, Breaking, Sharpning, and the like.

Bodies perfectly mixt are either Inanimate or Ani­mate. Inanimate as Metals, Stones, and Half or Bastard Metals.

A Metal is an Inanimate Body perfectly mixt, made or growing in the Bowels of the Earth of Sulphur and Mercury.

Their principal Efficient Cause is the Vertue of the Stars, but especially of the Sun.

The Instrumental Causes are Heat and Cold.

Their Affections are these three; First, They may be all melted; but these which have more of the Terrene Concretion, with more difficulty. Secondly, All Metals are ductile and Malleable; but especially those which are more compact and soft. Thirdly, They are all weighty by reason of the closeness and compaction of their Matter.

Their Species are either Pure, as Gold and Sil­ver, or Impure as Lead, Tin, Brass, and Iron.

Stones are Inanimate Bodies perfectly mixt, of a hard Earthy Substance, mingled with a sort of unctuous Moistness, and in length of Time grown together by the Vertue of Heat and Cold.

They are divided into Vulgar or Common, as the Pumice, Free stone, Marble, Alablaster, Flint, &c. and into Precious, as the Diamond, Ruby, Saphir, Carbuncle, Amethist, Chrysolite, Jas­per, Emerald, Onix, &c.

There are other Bodies distinct from these which are placed in this Topick by the Name of half or Bastard Minerals. And these are such as have (as it were) a middle Nature, between Stones and Minerals, and partake of something with each of them, and yet in something differ from them both.

Some of them may be softned but not melted, as some kind of Earths, viz. Chalk, Plaister, Oker, Potters Clay, Terra Sigillata, so called, be­cause they use to set a Seal upon it.

Some again may be melted, as Salt, Alom, Pitch, Sulphur, Vitriol, &c.

Bodies Animate have either no Sense, as Plants: or that have Sense, as Animals.

Plants are Animate Bodies, which grow or encrease, and have the faculty of Nutriment and Generation.

The Parts of Plants are Principal, or less Prin­cipal. The Principal Parts again are either Similar or Dissimilar. The Similar Parts are the Juice, which is as it were their Blood; Their Tears are those Humors which Naturally and of their own accord sweat; Their Flesh or Pulp, which is like the Muscles in an Animal; Their Fibres resemble the Veins or Nerves, and their Bark resembles the Skin. The Dissimilar Parts are the Root, which is like the Mouth in the Earth to receive Nourishment; The Stalk, which receives the Nu­triment from the Root, and carries to all the Parts of the Bodies; The Marrow or Pith is the in­ward [Page 40] Part of the Stalk. The Branches are spread abroad every way like Arms.

The less Principal Parts are such as are neither of the Plants Essence, nor yet necessary for its Propagation, as Leaves.

The Corruption of a Plant is either Natural or Violent. Natural is when the Natural Heat hath overcome the Natural Moisture, and so it withers and dries of it self: Violent when it is Corrupted or Perishes by any outward Principle,10 as Heat, Frost, or the like.

Their several sorts are Trees, Shrubs and Herbs.

An Animate or Living Creature is an Animate Body, which hath Sense, and moves it self from one place to another, and is either Rational or Irrational. The Irrational are either imperfect or perfect. Imperfect as Insects, which have Bodies distinguished into certain Joynts or Sections, and the life almost equally spread through all parts; 20 they have no Blood, nor do they Breath. There are two sorts of them, the one hath Wings as Flyes, Gnats, Wasps, Bees, Beetles, &c. The other not, as Gnats, Spiders, Flees, Locus, &c.

Perfect Irrational Animals are either Amphibi­ous, that is, such as live in both the Elements of Air and Water, As Otters, Frogs, Tortoises, Rats, &c. Or such as live but in one of the Elements; and those are either Fish, as Whales, Salmons, Herrings, 30 Pikes, Eles, Carps, Tench, &c. which inhabit the Water; or Beasts, as Horses, Cows, Lyons, Dogs, Deer, Hares, Foxes, &c. which live on the Land; or Fowls, as Turkeys, Pigeons, Phea­sants, Partridges, Woodcocks, Snipes, Black-Birds, &c. with innumerable others of each sort, too tedious to repeat, which live in the Air.

Rational, as Man. The Masterpiece of the vi­sible World, for whose Use and Service all other things were made. As also the Structure of his 40 Body is the most curious of all others. His Parts are Body and Soul. And here we shall take notice, first of his Body; because thereby we may also at the same time arrive to a good Degree of Knowledge in the Bodies of other Animals.

The Parts of Mans Body are divided into these Parts, which are contained, and those which con­tain. Those contained are either Humour, or Spirits. Humour in General is defin'd by a li­quid Part of the Body, contained in certain Ves­sels, for the Conservation of the whole Body. 50 Humours are either Excrementitious as Sweat, Vrin, Dung, &c. or not Excrementitious, but of use; as Blood, Chyle, Choler, and Melancholy.

Spirit is a Substance the most Fine and Aery in the whole Body; and it may be the immedi­ate Instrument, whereby the Soul Acts upon the Body.

Spirits are divided into Natural, Vital and A­nimal. The Natural Spirits are such as are ge­nerated 60 in the Liver of the purest Blood, for the support of Nature. The Vital Spirits are those generated in the Heart of the Natural Spirits; and from thence by the Arteries, spread into every Part of the Body. The Animal Spirits are those generated in the Brain of the Vital Spirits, which are the immediate Instruments of Sense.

The Parts of the Body which contain the Rest, are either Similar or Dissimilar; Similar, as Bones, Cartilages, Ligaments, Membranes, Fibres, Nerves, Veins, Arteries, Flesh, Skin.

Dissimilar or Heterogeneous Parts are either External or Internal. External, as the Head, the Trunk, the Limbs. The Parts of the Head are the Skull and Face. The Parts of the Trunk are the Breast and the Belly. The Limbs are the Hands and Feet. The Internal Parts of the Bo­dy are such as are in the lower, or middle, or the highest Ventricle of the Body. The Lower Ven­tricle contains those which we call the Natural Parts, which are either for Nutrition or Generation. Those that are for Nutrition are again divided into two Classes the first and second.

The first contains the Gullet or Neck of the Stomach; the Stomach it self; the Intestines or Guts, which are either Small or Great.

The Small ones are Duodenum, Jejunum, and Ilion. The Great ones are Caecum, Colon, and Rectum; the Messentery.

Those of the second Class are the Liver, Milt, Spleen, Reins, and Bladder.

Those Parts which are for Generation are ei­ther such as are common to both Sexes, as Testi­cles and Seminal Vessels; or to either Sex apart, which are the Pudenda.

The Middle Ventricle contains the Vital Parts, which are the Heart and the Lungs.

The upper Ventricle contains the Animal Parts, which in one word is called the Brain; wherein we are to consider the Membranes, being two, which in Latin are called the Dura Mater, and the Pia Mater; one thicker than the other, and both encompassing the Brain.

The Parts of the Brain are two, the former and the hinder; the former hath three Ventricles, the Right, the Left, and the Middle.

We come now to the last thing to be con­sidered in Natural Philosophy, and that is the Soul, which in Vegetables is that by which they grow; in Animals, that by which they grow and have sense; and in Men, that by which they grow and have sense, and are Rational.

The Faculties of the Vegetative Soul, which is found in Plants, are these Three; First, That by which they are nourished and preserved. Se­condly, That by which they encrease and grow bigger: And Thirdly, That by which they gene­rate other Bodies of the same Species or like­ness.

The Effect or Consequence of the Vegetative Soul is Life.

The Nutritive Faculty of the Soul is that, whereby it converts another Substance into its own, for its own preservation; so that herein there are Three things necessary, viz. something that nourishes, and that is the Soul; something which is nourished, which is the Animate Body; and something by which it is nourished, which is the Aliment it self.

That which nourishes is the Soul, wherein it makes use of the Natural heat as its Instru­ment.

That which is nourished is the living Body, which as it wastes is still repaired with fresh Nu­triment.

[Page 41] The Nutriment it self is such as has a Power, or is capable of being Animated by the same Soul, after Digestion and Concoction.

That Faculty of the Soul, by which the Body grows, has by some been thought to be the same, by which 'tis nourished, because it ha's the same Object, viz. Nourishment; the same Subject, viz; An Animate Body; the same Efficient Cause, viz, the Soul; and the same Instrument, which is Natural Heat. 10

Hence Scaliger, and some others, have thought the Nutritive and Augmentative Faculties of the Soul to be the same.

But it appears that they differ. First, In regard of their End. The End of the Nutritive Faculty is only the restoring or supplying of those Parts which are continually consumed and wasted. But that of the Augumentative Part is the Acqui­sition of a just Magnitude or Proportion to do those Operations that are proper to the Body. 20

2. The different Form. The Form of Nutrition is the bare hanging, or Assimilation of the Nutri­ment to the Body; But the Form of Accretion con­sists in a Motion of Extension.

3. They differ in regard of the manner of Muta­tion or Change In Nutrition there is no Change of the Body as to its Place or Extension; but in Aug­mentation there is.

4. They differ in regard of Time. The Nutritive Faculty indures as long as the Body has the same Form. But the Augmentative no longer than till 30 the Body arives at a certain Magnitude.

The third Faculty of the Vegitative Soul is the Generative, whereby it produces another thing like it self, for the perpetual conservation of its own Species, and this is the most noble Facul­ty of all the three.

Here we are to observe, That nothing that hath Life can have this Generative Faculty, except it be perfect in its kind, and not mutilated, or cas­trated,40 as Eunuchs, &c. And except it self be gene­rated by the ordinary, or Natural way, as all those things that are generated of Putrefaction.

The Affections of a Vegitative Soul, as well of the Sensitive as Rational, are Life, and Death.

Life is the Conjunction or Union of the Soul with the Body, and consists in an equal tempera­ment or proportion of the Natural Heat, and Radical Moisture.

Death is the Separation of the Soul and Body, 50 and is either Natural or Violent. Natural, when through length of Time the Natural Heat is per­fectly Cunsumed or spent; and Violent, when the Heat is destroyed by the Force, or Power of any external Agent.

The Sensitive Soul is that by which an Animal, or Living Creature perceives or apprehends those things which are without it (to wit, Sensible Ob­jects) so as to desire those things which are for its Preservation, and by which also it is moved from 60 one place to another, so that it hath these three different Faculties.

The Cognostive, or that of the Senses.

The Appetitive, or the Faculty of Desiring.

The Locomotive, or the Faculty of Moving up and down.

The Cognoscitive, or Faculty of Sense, is that whereby Living Creatures by the mediation of the Instruments of the Body, perceive and judge of Sensibles Objects, and direct them to a certain End.

This Faculty is commonly called Sense, and its operation Sensation.

The Senses are either External, or Internal.

The External are Seeing, Hearing, Smelling, Tasting and Feeling.

The Internal Senses are such as retain Sensible Objects, and represent them to the Animal, or Living Creature; not only Present, but Absent; and are these three, viz. Common Sense, Phantacy and Memory.

The Affections of the Senses are Sleeping and Waking. Sleep is a binding up (as it were) of all the outward Senses in order to the Repose, and Refreshment of the Body.

The Remote Cause of it is the Natural Heat, which forces gently the Uapours of the Aliment received up into the Brain: The next cause is the Vapours themselves which are thus raised from the Stomach, and stop those passages through which the Animal Spirits have their course.

The Affection of Sleep is Dreaming, which is an Apparition presented to the Body Sleeping by the Internal Sense.

Some of these are Natural, and they proceed from the Image or reflexion of the Thoughts, or Actions of the Day; and some are Supernatural, and sent either by God himself, or Good Angels, and do many times presage things to come; or else by the Devil, or Evil Angels to work and ter­rifie us, and both these last kinds are proper on­ly to Man.

Waking is the Freedom, or Liberty either of all, or of some of the Senses; and the cause of it is ei­ther Internal, or External.

Internal, as the finishing of the Concoction of the Meat, for after Concocction and Separation made in the Stomach the Vapours cease, and so the Body Wakes, or else the Native Heat, which by degrees dissolves and dissipates those Vapours, or it may be both together.

The External Cause of Waking are such out­ward things or Accidents as may disturb us, as Noise, Motion, and the like.

The Appetitive Faculty is that, whereby the Animal, or Living Creature is moved to seek that which its Senses tells is good, and avoid that which its Senses represent to it as Evil. This Faculty is called the Sensitive Appetite, as it is taken for the power of desiring; and the Action it self is called seeking or desiring.

The Object of it is every thing that is the Object of the External Senses, which the Phantasie jud­ges good, and desires them; or Evil, and avoids them.

The Sensitive Appetite is either Concupiscible, whereby the Living Creature is carried to desire any Good which seems pleasant and delightful; or Irascible, when it is carried to desire any Good which cannot be obtained without difficulty and labour. The Affections of the Sensitive Appetite are either Simple or Mixt; the Simple are either good, as Joy, Love, Hope, &c. or Evil, as Grief, and Fear.

[Page 42] The mixt are Anger, which is an Affection compounded of Sorrow, and desire of Revenge; and its Kinds are Hate and Shame. Or Zeal which is a mixt Affection of Love and Anger, when the thing Loving is angry with that which offends the thing Loved.

The Locomotive Faculty is that whereby a liv­ing Creature is moved from place to place, either in whole or in part to seek Good or avoid Evil; and in this there are three things required.10

(1). That which moves it, which is either the Final or Efficient Cause.

(2). The Bodily Instrument which moves it, which is remotely the Brain, whence the Animal Spirits Flow into the Nerves, which the Soul makes use of in moving the Body, and Proxi­mately or Particularly the Muscles, which are formed so, as to be easily contracted or exten­ded in the performance of all Locomotion.

(3). That which is moved, to wit either the whole Body, or some certain part of it, as the 20 Tongue, Hand, Foot, Eye, &c.

The Rational Soul is the Form of Man, where­by he has the Power of Vnderstanding, Reaso­ning, and Willing.

The Faculties of it are the Vnderstanding and the Will.

Here they lay down certain Theorems or Spe­culations, containing in general Terms the Nature of the Soul: As (1) That the Rational Soul is a Substance Spiritual, and Immaterial. (2) The Ra­tional 30 Soul is Incorruptible, and Immortal. (3) The Ra­tional Soul is not the same Numerical thing in all Men.

The Vnderstanding is a Faculty of the Rational Soul, by which a Man Vnderstands, Knows, and Judges things that are Intelligible.

The Word Vnderstanding which the Latins call Intellect, is taken for the Mind, or Soul it self, in which it doth Vnderstand.

Sometimes it is taken for a Habit or Know­ledge of Principles, and is called in Latin Intelli­gentia. 40

Sometimes it is taken for the Act of the Mind or Soul, which in Latin is called Intellectio.

Sometimes it is taken for the Faculty of the Power of Vnderstanding, and so it is in this place.

The Vnderstanding is said to be either Specula­tive, when it takes Knowledge of any thing on­ly for Truths sake, and rests in the bare Cogniti­on. Or Practical, which takes Knowledge of a thing, not only for Knowledge sake, but also in order to the doing it, vvhen it considers it a thing to be done; and hence it begins to move the Ap­petite, not by compelling, but by directing and shewing it what is to be done.

The Operations of the Intellect, or Vnder­standing, are these three, (1) The Apprehension of simple things, when a Man conceives only one thing alone, as the Heaven, the Earth, a Man, a Beast, &c. (2) Composition and Division, when simple Conceptions are joyned together, so as something is affirmed or denyed, but yet without any Discourse or Reason; as when he conceives that a Man is a Living Creature. (3) Discourse or Reasoning, when the Vnderstanding gathers one thing from another.

And here we are to take notice, that Sense is only concerned, and only comprehends Singulars, but the Vnderstanding Vniversals: As also, That nothing is in the Vnderstanding, vvhich vvas not before in the Sense.

The Will is a Faculty of a Rational Soul, whereby a Man desires, or avoids things known from the Vnderstanding, and this is called the Ra­tional Appetite.

The Object of it in general is any thing which is Represented by the Vnderstanding, as Good; and also its contrary, any thing which is repre­sented to it as Evil.

The Will is either Simple or Determinate. Sim­ple or Universal is that whereby a Man is carried to every thing that is good in General, whether Real or Apparent.

Determinate or Particular, is that whereby our Will is determined upon this or that particular Object.

And thus much in Brief of the Philosophy of the Antients. Now follows a short or Brief Dis­course of the Doctrins of the Modern Philosophers, wherein they Receed from the Antients.

A BRIEF ACCOUNT OF Des Cartes's Philosophy; BEING The New and general Received Philosophy.

IN all Sciences there are certain Principles or Postulata's supposed, upon which the whole Frame or Contexture of the Work depends. In this Philosophy▪ Des Cartes hath made use of new ones distinct from all that ever have hand­led that Subject before him.

He calls his Book the Principles of Philoso­phy, which he has divided into four several Parts.

The first concerns the Principles of Human 10 Knowledge, wherein he shews, that they who enquire after Truth, must once doubt of every thing in the World, even of Sensible Things, and Mathematical Demonstrations.

Of Sensible Things, because we find the Senses often err; and also because in our Dreams we often think we see those things which neither are, nor ever were; and there are no certain signs to a Man thus doubting, whereby he can distinguish Sleeping and Waking. 20

Of Mathematical Demonstrations, because we can have no certainty of the truth of our Facul­ties; But that we our Selves really are he proves, because we Think; for even out Doubting or Thinking necessarily supposes or implies something that doth doubt or think.

And hence he infers, That our Minds are more cognoscible or obvious to our Knowledge than any Substance or Body; because by their help and assistance it is, that we come to understand Bo­dies 30 with all their Notions and Affections; and the more we learn of the Nature or Being of our own Minds.

Nor can we (as he saith) having finite Minds; judge or comprehend any thing rightly concern­ing Infinity. And hence it is, that we are always at a loss about Infinite Extention of Body or Space, and Infinite Divisibility of Matter; and hence he would teach to distinguish betwixt Infi­nite and Indefin [...]te. And then he concludes his 40 first Book of Principles with shewing the Principal Causes of all Errors, which he reduces to these Four:

1. The first are the Prejudices of our Infancy, before we come to the right use of our Reason.

2. The second Cause of Error is, because we can't forget or drive out of our Minds those Preju­dices.

3. The third is, That we weary and busie our selves in attending to those things that are not present or obvious to our Senses; and so we do not judge of them from our own Perception, when present; but from a former conceived Opinion or Imagination.

And 4. The Fourth and last Cause of Error is, That we tye our Conceptions to Words and Terms, which do not rightly and justly answer the Nature of things.

His Second Part of Philosophy treats of the Principles of Material Things.

Here he proves the Existence of Things Mate­rial, or such as are without us, because they do affect our Senses. Now we can't make our Selves perceive one thing more than another, so that this Affection of our Senses must needs pro­ceed from the Things themselves, and consequent­ly those Things must be.

He places the Nature or Essence of Matter in its Extension, and not in any other of its Affe­ctions; and hence takes occasion to shew the Prejudices which we commonly have of Rare­faction and a Vacuity.

His Notions of Place and Motion are also new; to which he adds (after he has spoken God as the first Cause and Mover of all Things) the Laws of Nature. And in short In this Book of his Princi­ples he shews that, which in Aristotle's Philosophy is called, The Affections of Body in general.

His Third Part treats of the Visible World, and of its several Parts.

He places the Sun in the Center, and supposes all the rest of the Planets to be moved about it.

[Page 44] And according to this Hypothesis he solves all the several Phaenomena of the Earth, the Planets, fixed Stars, and the like.

Afterwards, for the Exposition of the Phaeno­mena of Nature, he assumes certain Principles; to wit, That one part of the Matter or Substance of the Heavens consists of many little Particles, and these he calls his Globuli. And then about these Globuli, or little Parts, he places another Matter, whose Parts are much less, and much more 10 fluid; and these he calls his Materia Subtilis, which fills up the Corners or Spaces, as he sup­poses, amongst his Globuli. And then he supposes some other Parts of Matter, whose Figures are not so apt or fit for Motion; and these he calls his Particula Striatae. And out of these three, as out of so many Elements, he supposes all Bo­dies to be made.

According to this Supposition he expounds the Nature of Light, and how it is dispersed by 20 the Sun, and the rest of the Luminary Bodies; as also the Nature of the Comets, with their Mo­tions.

He assigns every Star and Comet its several Vortex or Whirl-pool; and according to that Supposition, he demonstrates their Spots and Changes.

According to his own Principles, he shews how all the Bodies might at first be generated; and gives an Account of their several Changes and 30 Revolutions, together with the Reason of the E­quality of those Motions which are found in all Bodies.

His Last Book of Principles contains a Dis­course of the Earth and Sea, with the Nature of the several Bodies therein. And here he gives you his Notion of Gravity and Levity, and tells you why Bodies are not heavy, according to his, as well as Aristitle's Hypothesis, in their own Natural places. How it comes to pass, that heavy Bodies tend towards the Center of the Earth, whence proceeds the Flux and Re-flux of the Sea, and how it comes to differ upon several Shores, and how it comes to pass that there is none in Pools, Lakes, and standing Waters.

He treats also in this Book concerning Heat, Vapors, Spirits, Exhalations, and the Saltness or Freshness with the different Tasts of Water.

He treats likewise of Metals and Minerals; of Fire, and Combustible Bodies; of the Motion of Nitre, and the spreading of Gunpowder when set on fire; of the Load-Stone, and how it is that it draws Iron to it; as also of the Attractive Power of Jet, Amber, and such like Bodies.

And in the Latter end of this Book, he treats of the Senses, both External and Internal; where­in his Notions are all New and Curious. And indeed the Design of Philosophy being principally to quicken and perfect the Judgment, this of his being of a more fine and sublime Nature than that of Aristotle's, and the other Old Philosophers, must certainly very well deserve Reading, espe­cially since (as he tells us) he hath omitted no­thing in Nature (yet excepting those things which Philosophers in former times used to call Occult Qualities) whereof he hath not given an Account, or at least laid down such Principles in his Dis­courses upon other Subjects, that any of those may easily be solved by them.

And whereas some may possibly think his Hypothesis (especially about the Creation, wherein Moses is very particularly) may seem to be different from all received Doctrines of the Church, he at last entirely submits all his Writing to her Censure.

[Page] [Page]

T [...] ye. Worshipfull Gilbert Gerard Co [...]sine of Brafferton hall in ye. north Rideing of Yorkshire Esq? son & heyr of Sr. Gilbert Gerard Kt. and Baronet by Mary Daughter to ye. Rt. Rererend father in God Iohn Cossu [...] late Ld Bishop of Durham. This plato is humbly D. D: by Ric. Bl [...]m [...]

ARITHMETICK.

ARITHMETICK is the Art of well numbring, which is divided into two parts, Simple and Compound.

The simple is that which simply considers the Nature of Number.

Number is that by which every thing is coun­ted, either by an intire Number, or by Parts, where first must be considered the Notation, and then the Numeration.

The Notation of Number has 10 Characters, viz. 10 9 Digits, or Figures, and a Cipher, and they are these, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 0. And three Degrees of Amplification repeated again in like manner by Periods, once, ten times, a hundred times, for every Character of a Number when put in the last place of the whole Number, ex­presses its Number once; If in the last place but one, ten times, and if in the last place but two, a Hundred times. This is then the considerati­on of the first Period; the second is of Thou­sands, 20 and tens of Thousands; as in the fourth place we count 1000, in the fifth place 10000, and in the sixth 100000, In the third Period 1000000, 10000000, 100000000; So like­wise in the fourth Period, Thousand of Millions, where there are also three Degrees which are re­peated in like manner with the rest, and so to Infinites.

Numeration finds by two Terms proposed a third, and if it can't be performed altogether,30 makes use of Induction of parts; for 'tis the same thing to Accompt by the whole as by parts; besides every Character is considered distinctly and by it self, and if it serve to the following Numeration, it must be born in Memory to a­void greater Trouble.

Numeration is either Primary, or conjoyned, the first, or principle is that which joyns once one number with another, as Addition and Subtraction.

Addition is the first Numeration, by which 40 one number is added to another, and afterwards the Total is gained. Addition is either of Numbers conjoyn'd (which is the first and most easy part by which the Total ariseth); or sepa­rate. In which sort of Addition the Mediation of the Table of Numbers is to be considered; and first in Characters single amongst themselves, where the single may be easily added with the single.

Subtraction is the first Numeration, by which 50 one Number is taken away from another; and then presently the remainder is found.

Conjoyn'd Numeration, compounds Number with Number as often as it may be proposed, which is Multiplication or Division.

Multiplication is that by which the Number that is Multiplyed is adjoyned or made use of, so often as the Unite is contained in the Number which Multiplies; and so the Product of both is found.

Division is that by which the Divisor is so many times taken from that which must be divi­ded, as it is contained, and then you have the Product which is called Quotient.

From Division proceeds the difference of Num­ber equally even and uneven. An equal or even Number, is that which may be divided into two parts without Fraction, as 2, 4, 6, 10, 16. An unequal or odd Number is that which cannot be divided without Fraction, as 3, 5, 7.

Again, an Even Number is subdivided into e­qually even, or equally uneven, and into une­qually uneven.

An equally even Number, is that which may be divided into equal parts, to 1, as 4 is divided into 2 by 2, and 2 by 1. In like manner 32 in­to 16, 16 into 8, 8 into 4, 4 into 2, and 2 in­to 1.

Equally uneven is that which can only once be equally divided, as 10, 30, 50. Unequally even is that which has several equal parts, but can't admit of Division as far as to one, as 12, 24, 36, 48.

Secondly Number is principal, or compoun­ded; A principal Number is not divided by ano­ther Number of Multitude, as 3, 5, 7, 11, 13, and others; It is also called an uncompounded Number, that is to say, it doth not consist of any other Number of Multitude.

A Compounded Number is that which may be divided by another Number of Multitude, as 4 is divided into 2 by 2.

From these ariseth another difference of Num­ber, viz. principals, and compounded between themselves; The principal Numbers between themselves, are such as are not commonly divi­ded by any Number of Multitude, as 2 and 3, 5 and 6.

Compounded Numbers amongst themselves, are such which are frequently divided by a Number of Multitude, as 4 and 6 are compounded between themselves; because they are commonly divided by 2, which is a Number of Multitude.

But before the Parts of Number be Counted, they require some proper Notation and Reducti­on.

Notation is of the Parts which has only two Marks, which are separated by an interposing Line, the Number above is called the Numera­tor, that below be Denominator.

Reduction is of Terms, Intigers and Parts.

[Page 46] Reduction of Terms is made of the least Term proportionate, and is General or Special; the General is a Division of Terms composed a­mongst themselves, by the greatest and most common Divisor, as 8 by 4; Special by the Species of Numeration to the Terms of two parts.

Reduction of Intigers is a Multiplication of In­tigers by the Name of the parts.10

Reduction of parts or Fractions to Intigers, is a Division of parts by its own Name; Redu­ction of Parts to Parts, is a Multiplication of Terms, by a Name Alternate to two proportio­nals of the same Name.

Reduction of Parts to Equal Unites, is a Re­duction of several Parts.

The other compounded Part of Arithmetick, shews the Composition of Numbers in Quantity and Quality.

The Terms of the Ratio of a compounded 20 Number are called Antecedent, and onsequent; the Antecedent is is the first Term of the Ratio, or Reason; the Consequent is the second.

Composition in Quantity is either of Equali­ty, which is alone, and individual, as 1 to 1, 2 to 2, from 4 to 4, from 9 to 9; or of Inequa­lity which is called difference, or Ratio.

Difference is a Composition of as much as a Term, differs from a Term; and so it is known by Subtraction; so the difference of 2 to 3, of 30 3 to 5, and of 5 to 8 is 1, 2, 3.

The Ratio is a Composition so long as one Term is contained in another, and therefore it is known by Division; and so after the Ratio or Rule is given, the Terms are known by contra­ry Multiplication, as the Ratio of 3 to 2, is 2 and a half, because 3 contains 2 once and a half. The Ratio of inequality is either more or less. The Ratio of the greater inequality is Termed the Major Term, but of the lesser by putting the 40 word Sub before, as the Ratio of 2 to 1 is called double, of 1 to 2 Subduple.

Ratio is either Primary or conjoynd, the first has a Species of Ratio, and is simple, or Mul­tiplyed; simple when the Major Term contains the lesser but once and something more, as the Superparticular and Superpartient.

The Superparticular Ratio is when the Term comprehends one Term once, and one part more; so one Second, Third, Fourth, or Fifth is cal­led 50 a second and a half, a third and a half, a fourth and a half, a fifth and a half, and so of others; as for Example 3/2, 4/3, 5/4.

The Superpartient Ratio is when one Term comprehends another, once and some part over and above, so 2 thirds, 3 fourths, 4 fifths is called Superbipartient third; Supertripartient fourth, superquadripartient fifth, and so of others; as for Example 5/3, 7/4, 9/5.60

The Multiplyed Ratio is, when one Term ex­actly contains another more than once, so twice, thrice, four times is called the Double, Triple and Quadruple Rule, as 2/1, 3/1, 4/1.

The conjoyned Ratio is that which contains di­vers sorts of Ratio's, as the manifold Superparti­cular Ratio, when one Term contains another more than once, and some part more, as a Double Sesque Second, a Triple Sesque Third, a Quadru­ple Sesque Fourth, as for Example 5/2, 10/3, 17/4.

The Multiplyed Super partient Ratio, is when one Term contains another more than one, and several parts more, as the double Superbiparti­ent third, that is 2 and ⅔, the Triple Supertri­partient fourth 3 ¾, the Quadruple Superquadri­partient fifth 4 ⅘, as for Example 15/4 24/5.

The Comparison of Number in quality is cal­led proportion, which is either Arithmetical, or Geometrical.

Arithmetical proportion is an equality of diffe­rences; Geometrical proportion is in the equality of the Ratio; this is properly the Portion of Numbers, and are called proportionable Num­bers, as 3, 6, 4, 8.

Partly direct as 3 to 6, so is 4 to 8; partly reverst as 8 to 4, 6 to 3, and alternately as 3 to 4, 6 to 8.

Proportion is separate or continued; proporti­on separate or disjoyn'd, is that in which there are actually 4 Terms, as 12, 8, 6, 2, for through­out the difference is 4.

Proportion conjoyn'd, or continued, is that whose middlemost Term, is compared to all the Extreams, which also is comprehended in 4 Terms, as in 8, 6, 4, the differences are equal, for the Number of 2 is throughout, and the middlemost is taken twice, for as 8 is to 6, so is 6 to 4.

Separate proportion is Simple, or Multiplyed; the simple is in 4 Terms and is direct, as the Golden Number so called from its singular use, in which amongst many other things is chiefly com­prehended all the Invention, and supputation of Parts and Ratio's; where it is reciprocal, when it is as the First Term of the First Ratio, to the First Term of the Second Ratio, so the Second Term of the Second Ratio, is to the Second of the First.

Separate Multiplied Proportion is when more than Four Terms are used in Composition, or Con­tinuation; Composition of Terms is either Pri­mary, Secondary; Primary as Addition, and, Alligation.

Addition, which is called the Rule of Fellowship, is when the Terms of proportion given are added, and is Triple 1, 2, 3; the First is the Addition of the Antecedent with the Consequent, to the Consequent, as 4 to 3, so 8 to 6; then as 7 to 3, so 14 to 6. The Second is an Addition of di­vers to one Consequent, or of one Antecedent to divers Consequents, as 2 to 4, so 3 to 6, and 8 to 4. The Third is an Addition of all the An­tecedents to all the Consequents.

Alligation, or Deduction, is a mixture of the, several kinds, whereof the Mean is tempered.

Alligation is of a Mean either acquired, or given; the Alligation which seeks the Mean is that, which having the Terms proposed seeks the Mean in the Division, of those which are added by their Num­ber, as if there are 2 Terms by 2, 3 by 3, and so consequently. The Alligation which gives the [Page 47] Mean is the Equation of the Mean proposed by reciprocal differences to that of unequal Terms.

The second Composition of Terms is made by the Multiplied Terms, when for 2 simple we take 2 which are made by them.

Multiplication is sometimes alone, which is Vul­garly called the Double Rule, or the Rule of Six quantities. Sometimes there is both Multiplica­tion and Addition, which First Multiply the 10 Terms proposed, and afterwards add together those that are Multiplied.

Proportion continued by the Terms is when any Term of the Antecedent Ratio is continued to the consequent, as the Invention of less Numbers into proposed Ratio's and Equation, that is, the continuation of two proportionate Orders in two Numbers, which is orderly, or confused.

Orderly Equation is that which is according to the same order of Numbers, so the First are pro­portionable 02 to the Second, the Second to the Third; as for Example, [...]/12, 6/8, 3/4, for as 9 is to 6, so is 12 to 8; and as 6 to 3, so is 8 to 4.

Confused Equation is when all as the First of the First Order is to the Second, so the Second of the Second is to the Third; and as the Second of the First is to the Third, so the First of the Second is to the Second; as for Example, 9/24, 8/18, 6/16, for as 9 is to 8, so is 18 to 16; and as 8 is to 6, so is 24 to 8.30

Proportion continued is when the whole Ratio of the First Term is to the Second; In like manner it is of the same with the Second to the Third, as in 2, 4, 8.

Proportion continued, as separated, is simple in Three Terms, or Multiplied in those which are long continued, as the Invention of Terms, and the sum of the Geometrical Proportion, and so the Ratio of the First to the Second is doubled to the Third, tripled to the Fourth, and so consequent­ly 40 in less, as in 1, 2, 4, the Ratio 1 to 4 is the First Ratio doubled to the Second, that is to say, twice put down and so Multiplyed by it self. So much for the Invention of continued, or conjoyned Numbers: Here follows the sum of Geometrical Progression.

If the First is taken from the Second and Last, it will be as the Remainder of the Second to the First, so the Remainder of the Last to the Last all preceeding; and then if 4 (which will be e­qual to the Remainder of the Last, as the Remain­der 50 of the Second to the First) be added from the whole to the last, the Sum will be as here 2/0, 4/2, 8/6, taking 2 from 4, and from 8 as 2 which remain of the Second are to the First (so 8 which remain of the Last) are to 4, and the two preceeding; for there is an Equality throughout, as 2, 2, 6, 6, are proportionable, the which 6 being added to 8 which is last, the Sum of the Progression will be 14.

Amongst the many Assistances I received from 60 several Experienced Persons, for the building up this, Volume, I had this following Compendious Tract of Arithmetick recomended unto me by a Person of Honour, as worthy to be inserted for its Excellency, being (Multum in Parvo) which said Tract I was the rather induced to insert as be­ing Composed by an Ingenious Gentleman that has freely contributed his assistance in some o­ther parts of the Mathematicks, and in particular in Fortification, wholly composed by him. The said Tract is as followeth.

NVMERATION.

NVmeration is a Series of Numbers by a Deci­mal Progression, every place towards the Left-Hand being 10 times the Value of the next place to the Right.

The best way of reading any Number is to distinguish them into Hundreds, as in this Exam­ple, 986, 157, 432; Or Nine Hundred Eghty Six Million, a Hundred Fifty Seven Thousand, Four Hundred Thirty two; and so of any other Num­ber.

ADDITION.

HAving placed the Vnites of the respective Progressions in Ranks and Files: begin and add together the Vnites of the Right-Hand File, setting down the Sum underneath (if it be under 10), but if just 10, then set down a Cipher (viz. 0) and carry 1 to the next place, and if above 10, set down the Excess, and carry for every 10 an Vnite. [...]

The reason of this is nothing else than all the Parts added together make up the Whole, as in the Line a, c, a, b, (14), and b, c, (24), together make the Line [...]

The best proof of Addition is thus; After you have added all the Numbers, cut off the first Line, and then add the rest; then Subtract the one Product from the other, and the Remain­der is equal to the upper Number, for the Pro­duct of the one Addition is lesser than the other by the First Number only, therefore their differ­ence must be equal to the First Number.

In Numbers of divers Denominations, when the Sum of them amounts to an Integer, or Integers of the next greater Denomination, add these In­tegers to those of the next Denominations.

4 Farthings make a Penny; 12 Pence, a Shil­ling; and 20 Shillings a Pound.

7 92-/100, Inches make a Link; 160 square Links a Pearch; 40 Pearch a Rood; and 4 Rood an Acre.

SVBTRACTION.

HAving placed the less Number under the greater, according to their respective Pro­gressions, beginning at the Right-Hand, Subtract the lower Figure out of that above it set down, the Remainder under it; but if the Figure chance to be less, then there must be a Vnite borrowed from the next place, or Progression to supply the 10 defect, which must be paid again by adding one Vnite to the next lower Figure on the Left-hand, which is the same thing as if the Figure above it was diminished by an Vnite; and for a Proof of the Operation, the Number subtracted, and the Remainder must still take that out of which it was substracted.

For out of a Number a, c, let a less Number a, b, be Deducted; then by the Hypothesis a, b, with the Remainder a, c, are equal to the whole 20 Number a, c, seeing the parts united are equal to the whole, [...]

From2834405
Subtract15726
Remain1327379
Proof28 405

30

In Number of divers Denominations, when the Number to be Subtracted is greater than the other, then Borrow one from the next Denomina­tion.

MVLTIPLICATION.

FIrst, To Multiply any Number betwixt 30 and 100. In the two Numbers proposed you are to observe how many Vnites each of 40 them wants of 10; then (all your Fingers be­ing open) lay down so many Fingers as the Numbers want of 10.

[figure]

Note, All that stand up are Tens, those that are down Multiplied one by another are Vnites, which added to the Tens gives the Num­ber,50 or Product desi­red, as in this Figure and Example, 6 times 8 is 48.

Place the Numbers one under the other, as in Addition, then Multiply the last Right-hand Fi­gure of the Multiplicand by the same of the Multiplicator, and set the Product (if less than 10) under; but if greater, carry the Excess (that is, for every 10 one Vnite) to the next place: And if the Multiplicator have more places than one,60 set down the first Figure of each respective Pro­duct under that figure of the Multiplicator, by which it was made, and so on to the Left, ob­serving ranks and files.

 CM.XM.M.C.X.V.
    426
    327
1    42
1. Product 2   140
3  2800
4   120
2. Product 5   400
6  8000
7  1800
3. Product 8  6000
9120000
Total Sum139322

426Multiplicand.
327Multiplicator.
2982First Product.
852Second Product.
1278Third Product.
139332Sum of all the Products.

The reason of which (as in the Table) is, that if all the particular Sums of the Products of the Multiplicand, arising from each Multiplicator be set down and added together, they will equal the Sum of all the Products taken together.

Example.

If a Souldier having Weekly 7 Shillings, how many Shillings must you have to pay 7693.

7693 
7 
53851Souldiers to Pay.

DIVISION.

DIvision is nothing else but the Deducting a less Number from a greater, as oft as may be, and so finding at last the Number, by whose Vnites that less Number being repeated, makes a Number equal to the greater, or near to it.

The greater Number is called the Dividend, the lesser the Divisor, and the last the Quo­tient.

Set the Figures of the Divisor under an equal number of figures of the Dividend on the Left-hand; if those figures of the Dividend be of greater, or at least of equal value with those of the Divisor; otherwise you must place the first figure of the Divisor under the second of the Dividend: Then having set down the Divisor right, make Points over the figures of the Divi­dend from the Vnite place of the Divisor inclu­sive; the number of Points denote the number of Figures in the Quotient.

For facilitating the Division prepare such a Table (if your Number to be Divided, or your Divisor, consist of many figures) as this following, [Page 49] by which you may find how often the Divisor is contained in the Dividend, or the respective figures in it; by which Multiplying the Divisor, deducing the Product out of the upper figures of the Dividend, what Remains must be con­sidered in the next Operation, if there be more places than one in the Dividend: The next figure of the Dividend must be taken down, and set next to the Remainder (if there be any,) and the Divisor must be again set under, if the value 10 of the upper figures be sufficient; if not, there must be a Cipher set in the Quotient, and then the next figure of the Dividend taken down, and the very same Operation repeated until the Work be done.

[...]
20

The Reason of the Table is, if you Multiply 30 the Divisor by 2, and you would find the double value of it; if you add the double value to the Divisor, you will find the Triple, and so on.

REDUCTION.

REduction is performed by Multiplication and Division, in bringing all sorts of Coins, or Measures to a greater or lesser Species; that is,40 to a lesser by Multiplication, and to a greater by Division. As for Example, 20 l. Multiplied by 20 s. makes 400 s. divided by 20 s. makes 20 l.

The GOLDEN RVLE.

THis Rule is either Single, or Double.

The Single Rule of Three is when three Numbers are given, and a fourth demanded; and 50 it is either Direct, or Inverse.

The single Rule of Three Direct is when three Numbers are given, and a fourth is demanded, which bears the same proportion to the third as the second doth to the first. For Example, If four Acres of Ground cost 80 l. what will eight cost of the same Ground.

Note, That in all Questions the several Coins and Measures must be exprest, and made known.60

Secondly▪ The Number to which you are to find a Proportion, must be the last in or­der.

Thirdly, The Number which is like in quantity to that whereunto you are to find a Proportion, must be first set down, and if it be not alike in quantity, it must be brought to it. As if 7 l. maintain 15 Men a Mouth, how many will 9 l. 10 s. maintain: Here the Pounds are to be brought to Shillings.

Having stated the Questions, they are to be resolved thus:

First, If the Number that asketh the Question be greater than that of the same Denomination, and also require more, or if it be less, and yet require less; then the Number which is of the same Denomination with the Number asking the Question is the Divisor, and the Rule is Direct: But if the Number that asketh the Question be greater than that of the same Denomination, and requires less, or if it be less, and requires more; then the Number asking the Question is the Divi­sor; and if thus, the Rule is Inverse.

The Reason of the Operation of the Direct Rule is demonstrated from the 19th Proposition, Lib. 7. Euclid. viz. If there be four Numbers in Proportion, the Number produced of the first and fourth is equal to the Number produced of the second and third; and if it be so, then these four Numbers shall be in Proportion, as in the Example, the fourth Term found, 160 being Multiplied by 4 (the first Term) the Product will be the same with the Product of the third, Mul­tiplied by the second, viz. 640.

Wherefore if the Product of the second and third Terms, viz. 640, be divided by the first, viz. 4, the Quotient, viz. 160, is the fourth Pro­portional.

[...]

The SINGLE RVLE of THREE Inverse.

THis Rule is when there are three Numbers given, and a fourth demanded, which bears the same Proportion to the second, as the third to the first.

Example.

If a quantity of Hay will keep 8 Horses 12 Days, how many Days will the same quantity keep 16 Horses.

[...]

The same Proportion 8 Horses bears to 12 Days, so do the 16 Horses to 6 Days.

The DOVBLE RVLE.

THis Rule is when there are five. Terms given, and a sixth in Proportion to them is demanded; As if 4 Men spend 19 l. in 3 Months, how many Pounds will 8 Men spend in 8 Months.

[Page 50] Of the five Numbers given three, imply a Supposition, and two more a Question.

For ranking the Terms, observe amongst the Terms of Supposition, which of them is of the same name with the Number sought, and place that Term in the Middle; or second Place, write the two other Terms of Supposition one above the other in the first Place, and the Terms of demand one above the other in the last Place, in such manner that the uppermost may have the same 10 Denomination with the uppermost in the first Place; as thus,

Men4—19—8Men.
Months3—00—8Months.

There it is resolved by two Single Rules of Three, observing still the above-mentioned Rules.

419 838
  152  
  152  
338 9114 20
  342  
  342  

FARCTIONS.

IF in the Division of the Operations there remains any thing, then the Remainder is the Numerator of the Fraction, whose Denominator is the Divi­sor, and doth express one of the Integers in the 30 Quotient into so many parts, the value of which in the known parts of one Integer is found by Multiplying the Numerator of the Fraction by the Number of known Parts of the next inferiour Denomination, which are equal to the Integer, and divide that Product by the Denominators in that inferiour Denomination.

And if there happen to be any Fraction in the Quotient, you may find the value thereof in the next inferiour Denomination by the same Rule; 40 and so proceed till you come to the least known Parts; so the value of 2/16, of a Pound will be found in Shillings and 3 diviz. Multiply the Numerator 9 by 20 (the Number of Shillings in a Pound) the Pro­duct 180 which divide by the Denominator 16, the Quotient is 2 Shillings 4/16, Parts of a Shilling, which by the former Rule is found in value 3 d.

To reduce a Fraction to its least Terms is by finding the greatest common Measure of both the Fractions (that is the greatest Number which will 50 measure or divide each of the given Numbers without a Remainder) which is thus found; divide the greater Number by the less, then divide the last Divisor by the Remainder (if there be any) and so continue dividing the last Divisors by the Remainders until there be no Remainder (neglect­ing the Quotients) so is the last Divisor the great­est common Measure to the given Numbers.

A single Fraction is reduced to its least 60 Terms by dividing the Numerator and Deno­minator by their great­est Common Measure, then the Quotients will be the Numerator of the Fraction, equal to the former, and in the least Terms.

  • 177 (132
  • 91
  • 26
  • 13 last Divisor.
  • 26
  • 00
91/117 by 1391 (7
 13 thus 117 (9
 —7 13
 00—
 9 00

When the Numerator and Denominator are Even Numberst, hey may be measured by two.

Note, The Rule of Three is to be proved by Transposition, viz. the last Number in the sum must be set first in the Proof, and the first last; the product found in the Middle place. Then working as is before taught, the midlemost Num­ber will come forth (if it be right performed); you must also in the Proof draw into the Multiplicati­ons the Remainder of the Divisions, as in the Ex­amples following.

Example to Exercise the GOLDEN RVLE.

First for the Direct Rule.

1. IF 1 lb. of Powder cost 4 d. 2 What will 595 Pound cost?

 4
18
18
4760 
595 
—(2 (1 
10710 2677 (22 3 
4444 1222 (11 
11 

Answer 2 l. 3 s. 1 d. 2 l. Transposition, or Proof.

If 595 lb. 2 l. 3 s. 1 d. 1 lb.

2. If of one Circle the Diameter being 7, the Circumference 22 Inches, what is the Circum­ference of a Circle whose Diameter is 75 Inches?

 Proof.
7—22—7575—235 5/7—7
227—
—1650
150525 7
150
—(511550 (22
1650 (235 5/75255
77752

Note, that in such Questions with Fractions, you must Multiply the first Number by the Denomi­nator of the Fraction of Second and Third Num­bers; and the Fraction of the first must be set down under the second Number, that all may be reduced equally, as in the fore-going, and this Example.

If one Man work one Day 3 1/9 Rod, how much will 10 Men work in one Day?

¼—3 ¼—1010—37 ½—1
—152 1
15—(2—(2
150 (37 ½20 75 (3 ¼
4420

For the Inverse Rule.

If 3 Men work a Raveline in 72 Days, in how long time will 18 Men work the same?

 Proof.
3—72—1818—12—3
312
246 (12 Days.36
18818
11—261 (72 Days.
 261 33

10

There is a Castle besieged, which is sufficient­ly Victualled for 12 months, 10 Ounces of Bread, 7 Ounces of Cheese, and 3 Ounces of Butter e­very day. The Governor is advertised, that if the Castle can hold out 15 Months with the same 20 Provisions, that the Siege shall be raised; How much then shall be allowed to every Souldier a Day, that they may be able to hold out the time?

12—10—1512—7—1512—3—15
121212
—(9—(6
2084 (5 9/15 Ounces of Cheese.36 (2 2/5 Oun­ces of Butter.
101515
120 (8 Ounces of Bread.  
15  

30

Examples in the Double Rule.

If four Souldiers can make up 12 Rood of a Trench in 24 Hours, how many Roods can 32 Souldiers make up in 72 Hours?40

Souldiers. Rood. Souldiers.Hours. Rood. Hours.
4—12—3224—96—72
1272
64192
384 (Rood. 32672 Rood
44 96——6912 (288
3846912 24

If 3 Horses cost in keeping 6 Days 16 s. what 50 will cost the keeping of 24 Horses 48 Days?

3—16—246—128—48
1648
1441024
384 (128 s. 24512
333——shill.
3846144 (102 4 (4 shill.
 6666 51 l.

60

If 2 Souldiers have 4 for Months Entertainment 9 l. 12 s. what shall 756 Souldiers have in 12 Months?

2—9—12—756
20192
1921512
 6804
 756
 —(1
 145152 (7257 (6
 22222—
 3628—16

Of the SQUARE ROOT.

Every Number being multiplyed by it self of what value soever, gives a Square Number, and the Number whereof the Square is produced by the Multiplication of it in it self, is called the Side, or Root of the Square.

Therefore to find the Quadrate, or Square Root, or side of any Number which Multiplyed in it self maketh the Number proposed. You are to take Notice that all Squares under 100 are found by the following Table, or by Multiplying any of the nine Simple Numbers in themselves; but the sides of greater Squares are to be found out only by Art.

The Table.

123456789
149162536496481

This Artificial Device is taken from the 4 Propositions of Euclid, where by Demonstration it is proved, that if a right Line be cut into any 2 Parts, or Segments, the Square of the whole Line is equal to the Squares of the Segments, and to the 2 right angled Figures made of the Segments; as in the Figure, the 2 Diagonals K, G, and b, f, are the Squares of the Segments a, b, and b, c, also the Complements B, K, and f, G, are the right angled Figures, made by Multiplying the Line a, b, by b, C.

[figure]

The same parts are to be found in any Square Number; as for Example, let the Number be 169, whose side is 13, the side divided into 2 parts, viz. 10 and 3, multiplying each part by it self one, viz. 10 by 10, and 3 by 3, then multi­ply one by the other, as 10 by 3, and 3 by 10, so you shall have 4 plain Numbers, whereof 2 are Squares. Therefore as the Square 169 is made by adding these four Numbers together, so by sub­ducting of them severally it is resolved. To which First Mark each odd, or third place with Points, because the particular Squares are to be found in the odd places, and how many Points there be of so many Figures the Root is to consist of. Then for so much as the Vnity standing under the first Point next the Left Hand is both a Square,.. and the side of a Square, that Figure therefore being set in the Quotient alone, and Subducted from the Vnity, standing under the Point, nothing remains.

169 (1
1
0

[Page 52] This Vnity set alone by it self in the Quotient doth signify 10, when another Figure is set by it, representing the side of the other lesser Square, as this doth the side of the greater. Wherefore the greater Diagonal K, G, is now Subducted from the whole Square, and the side thereof, if K, c, or a, b, they being equal to one another, and also the side of one of the Complements is found out: and this is the first Step. Moreover double the Figure in the Quotient, because being doubled it is 10 the side of both the Complements taken together, viz. K, 1, and G, 1; then setting 2,.. the double Number, under 6, divide 6 (each in this place is as much as 60, and represents both the Complements) by 2, the Quotient is 3 representing the other side Remaining of the Com­plements, viz. j, f, or b, C, which Number place in the Quotient, and reckon it for the Segment remaining 20 of the right Line given. Wherefore because 3 is the side of the Remaining Diagonal, that is to say, of the lesser Square b, f, therefore being set by the Divisor on the Right-Hand, and Multiplyed by it self, and also by the Divisor, it brings forth 3 plain Numbers, viz. the Square b, f, and the 2 Complements a, j, and a, L, which be­ing subducted from the Numbers standing over them, nothing Remains; and so in any other Ex­ample: As in this, 625 the Root is found to be 30 25; but if this 625 had been 655, which is a greater Number than 625 by 30 Vnites, the Inte­gers of the Square Root had been still 25, only there had been left 30 which had been the Nume­rator of a Fraction, whose Denominator must ever be the double of the Root augmented by an Vnite, and the Operation had been 25 30/51.

To prove if you have extracted right, multiply the Root in it self, if there remains any thing, add it to the Product, which if rightly performed will 40 give the Square Number.

169 (13
1
023
3
69
00

Some Examples.

1. A Colonel having 1849 Men, he would set them in a square Battalion, how may Souldiers must there be in Rank and File?

1849 (43 in Rank and File. 
16 
Proof.
249 
8343
343
249129
 172
000
 1849

50

2. There is one equal sided Square piece of Ground the content of which is 6098 Square 60 Rods; to know if the length of one of the sides answer 78 Rods.

3. A Colonel having by him 2048 Men, he would place them in a Battalion, which shall be twice so long as broad, how many Souldiers must there be in length and breadth?

To resolve any Question of this nature, divide the Number of Men by the Number of the pro­portion of the Battalion, then extract the Root out of the Quotient, which is the Souldiers in breadth, which Multiplyed by 2 the Proportion gives the Souldiers in depth, or length.

2048 (1029 (32 in Breadth32
22222

And so of any other Proportion. 64 in length.

4. A General having an Army of 33756 Soul­diers, would have them set in form of Battle 3 times so long as broad; how many Men must there be in breadth and length?

33756 (11252 (106 Souldiers in Breadth.

(16 
 106
 3
 318

To find how much of the Remainder of the Extraction is in Souldiers, multiply the Remain­der by the Proportion (3); the aforesaid Example being in a Triple Proportion, and therefore it is divided by 3, and to bring it to the first again multiply by 3.

16 Remainder in the Extraction.

3 Divisor.

48 Souldiers remains of the whole Body.

For Measuring of Land it is not material to come so precisely to the knowledge of the Re­mainder of the Extraction, unless it be Acres, Perches, or any great Measure, which you may reduce to Inches, and then draw forth the Extra­ction, and quit the Remainder.

Of the CVBE ROOT.

A Cube in Geometry is a right Angled Parallel­lipipedon, having 6 equal Surfaces, 8 solid An­gles, and 12 sides, as in the Figure a, B, C, D, E, f, G, h, whose sides are a, b, or a, d, also B, C, or C, d, either C, E, or E, f, also E, h, or h, G, likewise G, f, or d, f, or d, a, and G, a.

[figure]

A Cube in Arithmetick is a Number made by three equal sides, or of two Multiplications by three Numbers, that is, of any Number Multiplyed in it self; and that Pro­duct again by the first Number, expressing Length, Breadth and Thickness.

The Number whereof the Cube is produced by the Multiplication of it in it self is called the side, or Root of the Cube, which being found out in whole Numbers, the Cube in known.

As for the Cubes under a 1000, whose Roots are simple Numbers, they are found by the fol­lowing Table.

123456789
149162536496481
182764125216343512729

[Page 53] But it searching out the sides of greater Cubes, proceed as the following Theorem directs.

This Artificial Device is taken out of the Theo­rem.

If a right Line be cut into two Segments, the Cube of the whole Line shall be equal to the Cubes of the Segments; and to the two Solid Fi­gures comprehended three times under the Square of his Segment, and the Segment remaining.

As the Line E, j, which is 13, is cut into two 10 Segments 10 and 3; therefore the Cube of the

[figure]

whole Line, viz. 2197, is equal to the Cubes of the Segments, viz. 1000 and 27, and also to the Two­fold solids, or Parallellipepidons thrice taken; 20 wherefore three have the like So­lidity. The Solidi­ty of each of the three lesser is 90, being made of the Square of the Segment 3, that is, of 9 Mul­tiplyed by the other Segment 10, these three Parallellipipedons taken together make 270; but of the three greater Parallellpipedons each con­taineth 300, made of 100, the Square of the greater Segment, 10 Multiplyed by the lesser Seg­ment 30 3, and they taken joyntly together make 900.

The Cube of the greater Segment.

[figure]

The Cube of the lesser Segment.

[figure]

40

The three greater Parallellipipedons.

[figure]

50

The three lesser.

[figure]

60

The Cube whereof hath eight particular Solids in Number, which are made of the Parts of the Number given, viz. of 10 and 3 in this man­ner.

First let there be four plain Numbers made, each part being Multiplyed by it self, and one by ano­ther.

103
103
1009
 30
 30
 100

If again you Multiply the plains by the same parts, there will arise eight Solids, as you here see.

99
3030
3030
100100
310
2790
90300
90300
3001000

All which being added to­gether, are equal to the Cube of the whole.

Therefore the same way that is used in making the Cube, is to be followed in resolving the Cube: As for Ex­ample.

Mark the Cube given with points, omitting each two Figures continually, beginning at the right Hand, as 2197; then subduct the particular Cube of the Number set underneath the last point, but that Number being no Cube, take the nearest to it, viz. an Unite, which set in the Quotient, the Unite in the Number given is 1000, but in the Quotient it is but 10, the Unite subducted from 2, the remainder is 1; which must be writ over the Number given, so that the greater Cube A, is sup­posed to be subducted from the Number given; this is the first step.

1
2 197 (1
1

Triple the Quotient found out (that is, Mul­tiply it by 3) this Triple represents the 3 sides taken together of the 3 lesser Solids marked C. then place the Triple Number under 9. again Multiply the Quotient Squarewise, and Triple the Product which likewise makes 3. this Pro­duct represents the 3 square sides of the 3 greater Solids, taken together marked D. then place the Product 1 Degree lower towards the left Hand underneath, with it divide 2 which is writ above it, the Quotient is 3, the Segment or Quoti­ent 3, being Multiplyed by 3, the Devisor makes 9, which in respect of the place where it stands is 900, and represents the 3 greater Solids mar­ked D, taken together.

Moreover the same Quotient being Multiplied Squarewise maketh 9, and Multiplied afterwards by the Tripled Number, standing under 9, makes 27, which in respect of the place it is in is 270, and represents the 3 lesser Solids marked C. Last of all the same Quotient Multiplied Cubically, brings the lesser Cube B, 27. These three Products therefore being added together▪ and the Total Subducted from the Number standing over it, there remains nothing which imports but the given Numbers is a Cube; As in the Example.

[Page 54]

1 2197 (13 the greater Cube.
2197 (13 1000
1 3
3 3
Or, thus,—Solids
9 900 the 3 greater.
27 270 the 3 lesser.
27 27 the lesser Cube.
2197 2197

10

The use of this will appear in casting up the Solidity of the Ground of a Fort, which is here inserted only to shew the Sections of a Solid Body.

To ye. Honble. Francis Robartes Es [...]. third son to ye. Rt. Honble. Iohn Earle of Radnor &c. This Plate is hum­bly dedicated by Richard Blome

GEOMETRY.

GEometry is an Art of well Measuring any Magnitude or Bigness, that is to say, any continued Quantity, by which a thing is called Great, or Small.

The continued Quantity is that in which the parts are continued to a common Term.

A Term is the utmost part or point of Mag­nitude.

A Point is an indivisible Sign, or Mark in Magnitude; where first are to be considered the 10 common Affections, and then the Division, or Difference.

The common Affections taken from Number are the Proportion and Ratio: those taken from themselves are the Convenients, and Adscription, in which are to be considered the Inscription, and the Circumscription.

Proportionable Magnitudes are those which are measured by the same Measure; those that are not Proportionable are Measured a contrary 20 way.

Rational Magnitudes are those by which the Ratio is easily explicated by the Number of the Measure proposed; the Irrational on the con­trary.

The Congruous are those from which parts ap­plied to parts take equal place. Adjunct Magni­tudes amongst them are when the Terms of one are terminated by the Terms of another. That within is called the Inscribed, that without the 30 Circumscribed. The Division or Difference of Magnitude is a Line or Lineament. A Line is only a long Greatness, whose Termination is in a Point: In this must be considered the Affections of one alone, or of two; The Line alone is streight or crooked.

A Streight Line is that which extends it self equally within its Terms: On the contrary the crooked Line extends it self unequally within its Terms. 40

A Crooked, or an oblique Line is divided into a round or wreathed Circumference. A round Circumference is that which is equally distant from the middle of the space comprehended and enclosed; The wreathed on the contrary is that which is equally distant from the middle of the space any way enclosed and comprehended, of which there are several Species.

A double Line is perpendicular, or Angular, Parallel, or Equidistant.50

Streight Lines between themselves are those, one of which falling under the other extends it self equally; Oblique or crooked on the con­trary.

Parallel or equal-distant Lines, are those that are equally distant throughout.

A Superficies is a Magnitude more than long in which there are to be considered the Affections and the Species.

The Affections of a Superficies are Angle and Figure.

An Angle is the Concourse of two Lines meeting together in the common Section of Terms, whose sides are the Terms comprehend­ing the Angle; Of which are two Species, streight and oblique.

A streight or right Angle is that whose Sides are right among themselves; Oblique on the con­trary which is Obtuse or Acute.

The Obtuse Angle is an Oblique Angle, more than a right Angle; The Acute Angle is less.

Figure is a Superfices terminated and bound­ed on every side, in which we are to consider its Parts and Affections.

The Parts are the Center, the Circumference, the Semidiameter, the Diameter, and the Alti­tude.

The Center is a Point in the middle of a Fi­gure; The Circumference is the comprehension of the Figure.

The Semidiameter is a right Line drawn from the Center to the Circumference.

The Diameter is a right Line drawn through the Center of a Figure which is flat: And streight Line Figures are properly called Diagonal; and in Solids the Axis.

The Altitude, or height is a Perpendicular from the Sommet or top of the Figure to the Basis.

In every Figure the Affections are of a simple or double Figure; of a simple Figure, as Order, Primariness, and Ratio.

An Orderly Figure is a Figure of equal Terms and Angles: A primier Figure is that which doth not divide it self into other Figures more simple. A Rational Figure is that which is comprehended in heighth and depth rational amongst them­selves.

The Affections of a double Figure are in the Ratio of Isoperimetre, or equally Circumference Figures, and in proportion of the primary Figures, and in likeness, complement of place, and round­ness.

For the Isoperimetrical Figures are those of e­qual Circumference, like Figures, as those that are of equal Angles, and proportioned to the Basis of equal Angels: Figures filling a place are those which being set in whatsoever manner a­bout the same Point leave nothing void. A round Figure is that whose Radious's are equal and a­like. These are the Affections of a Superficies. Now follow the Species and Differences, viz. the Superficies and the Body.

A Superficies is a Dimension only large, whose Term is a Line, and is either flat like a Plate, or swelling.

A flat Superficies is that which extends it self equally in its Terms, and is of streight or crook­ed Lines.

[Page 56] The Superficies of streight Lines is flat, which is comprehended in streight Lines, and divides it self into a Triangle, or a Triangular.

A Triangle is that which is made of three streight Lines; A Triangle is of a streight Angle, or a crooked Angle.

A Triangle of a streight Angle is called Ortho­gon, which hath a right Angle whose dimension is taken by the Reglet, which is the most excel­lent Instrument, and most useful of all the Geome­trical 10 Instrument, and most Antient; It is vulgar­ly called the Jacobs Staff.

A Triangle of a crooked Angle is that which hath not a streight Angle, and is called Amblygon, or Oxygon.

The Amblygon is that which hath an obtuse Angle: Oxygon is that which hath all the Angles sharp: A Triangulat is a flat Superficies of a streight Line which is composed of Triangles, and is ei­ther Quadrangle, or Multangle. 20

A Quadrangle consists of four streight Lines, and is a Parallellogram, or Trapezium.

A Parallellogram is a Quadrangle equally dis­tant of the sides which are opposite; whose Species must be considered, for there is a Paral­lellogram of a streight, and of a Crooked Angle,

A Right Angle Parallellogram hath all right Angles; and is either square, or oblong.

A Square is a Right Angle Parallellogram of 30 equal Sides; The oblong is of unequal Sides.

A Parallellogram of an oblique or crooked Angle is called a Rhomb, or Rhomboides.

A Rhomb is a Parallellogram of a crooked Angle, and of equal Sides.

A Rhomboides is of a crooked Angle, and of unequal Sides; These are the Species of a Pa­rallellogram.

A Trapezium is a Quadrangle of four Sides with is not a Parallellogram. 40

A Multangle is a Triangulat comprehended in more than four streight Lines.

The flat Superficies of a crooked Line is cal­led a Circle, which is a Superficies flat and round, whose Segment is the Sector and Section.

The Segment of a Circle is that which is com­prehended Exteriorly in the Circumference, Interi­orly in a streight Line. A Sector is a piece of a Circle contained within one streight double Line, making One Angle at the Center, which is called 50 the Angle at the Center; as the Circumference is called the Base of the Sector.

A Sector is likewise a piece of a Circle which is contained within a streight Line, called the Base of the Section, and is a Demicircle or un­equal to a Demicircle.

A Demicircle is half of the Section of a Circle; An unequal to the Demicircle is not the half of the said Section.

A Gibous, or swelling Superfice is that which 60 extends it self unequally within its Terms; and is Circular or Various.

The Circular or Spherical Superficies is the Gib­ous Superficies, which is equidistant from the Center of the contained Space.

The various Superficies is also Gibous, whose Basis is the Circumference; The Side one streight Line from the Term of the top to the Term of the Basis; It is called Conical, or Cylindrical.

A Conical, or pointed Superficies, is that which riseth equally in a Point from the Subject sub­sected Circumference towards the Top.

A Cylindrical, or long and round Superficies is drawn and rises equally in a Point from the sub­ject Circumference towards the heighth Circum­ference equal and equidistant.

So much for the Superficies and all its Parts and Species.

A Geometrical Body that hath thickness is a Dimension large and deep, whose Term is the Su­perficies, the Axis is the Diameter about which it turns; it is flat and Gibous.

A Flat Body is comprehended of flat Superfi­cies, and it is a Pyramid, or Pyramidate.

A Pyramid is a flat Body, raised equally high from the Basis of a Right Line, and hath but one Species ordained it, which is a Tretradon, viz. an orderly Pyramid comprehended in four Tri­angles.

A Pyramidate is also a flat Body which con­sists in Pyramids, and is a Prisme, or mixt Po­lyedron.

A Prisme is a Pyramidate Body, whose two opposite Flats are equal, alike, and equidistant; the rest Parallellogram; and hath two Species, Pentadron, or composed of Pentadrons.

A Prisme compounded of Pentadrons is a Hexadron, or a Poludron.

The Hexadron is Parallellipipedon, or Tra­pezium.

A Parallellipepidon is a Hexadron, whose op­posite Flats are Parallellogram; and it is either right Angle, or oblique Angle.

The Right Angle Parallellipipedon is like a Die, which is a right Angle, Isocedron, or oblong.

An Oblique Angle is like a Rhomb, or a Rhom­boides.

The mixt Polyedron is a Pyramidate compo­sed of Pyramids that assemble themselves from the upper part to the Center, and raising them­selves from the Basis, alone, and is of a Triangular Basis, as the Octodron, which is comprehended in eight Angles; the Isocedron consisting of twenty Angles, or of a Quinquangu­lar Basis, which is comprehended in twelve Quinquangles, and is called Dodecadron.

The Convex Geometrical Body is that which consists of a Convex Surperficies, and is called a Sphere, or Globe.

A divers Body is comprehended in a divers Superficies, and Basis, and it is a Cone, or Cylin­der.

A Cone or a round Pyramid is comprehended in a Conick Superficies, Basis.

A Cylinder is contained in a long and round Superficies, and opposite to its Basis.

Hitherto hath been treated of the Definitions and proprieties of Magnitude, and all their parts and Species: There remains only Measure, and to Measure the Magnitude is the part of Geome­try. But there are two sorts of Measuring, one which is natural and common, and known al­most to all, by which we apply the Measure to the thing Measured: So we know that [Page 57] each—is of six Foot, or six Ells, whench we have experimented, that the Foot or [...]ll is not found so often in it.

According to this, Euclid makes demonstra­tion from the fourth Proposition of the first Book, when he puts one Triangle to another.

Moreover the common Propositions, and Ques­tions relate to this natural Measure.

Common Sentences are clear, and manifest Propositions of themselves, and therefore called by 10 Cicero Natural Judgments; But for as much as Euclid sets down but three Demands, all the Theorems and Propositions always which tend to instruct to Measure, and teach what is most easy to do, relate to the Demands; as may be under­stood by the Definition of the Question; 'tis this that falls commonly under a natural Measure. But for as much as it would be a long and most difficult thing to Measure the Places and Sides of great Figures by this natural sight, there is ano­ther 20 way more short found out to Measure the Mag­nitudes, and all their Parts and Spaces, which is called Surveying, which shall be treated of more at large apart by it self.

I shall conclude this Tract of Geometry with some necessary Problems: And First as to the Practick Part thereof.

To cut a Line into two equal Parts.

FRom the Extream Point 30 of the given Line c, d Figure 1, opening your Com­passes at pleasure, describe the Arches intersecting each other, as well above as beneath; and through the Intersections of these Arches draw a Line a, b, c; this Line will cut the given Line directly in the midst, and 40 by the same Method you may divide any Angle equally into two Parts: For Example, In the second Figure from a, by whatsoever opening of the Compasses fix the Points c, and b, and from those Points des­cribe the Arches intersecting each other in e, from that In­tersection drawn the Line e, a, and it will cut the 50 Angle in the midst.

[figure]

[figure]

Any middle part being given in a Line, to raise from thence a Perpendicular.

FRom the Point, suppose a, in the first Figure at any convenient opening of the Com­passes, you make Points on each side in the said Line, as c, and d; then from those Points at what 60 opening of the Compasses you please, draw the Arches intersecting each other, as at a, and from their Intersection draw the Line a, b, to the given Point; so a, b, is the Perpendicular.

At the end of any Line to raise a Perpen­dicular.

FRom a, which is the given extream, describe the Arch e, at any opening of the Compass; then from the Point e, at the same opening make a Point in the said Arch; from the Point describe another Arch e, d, and on the Arch, opening the Compass to thrice the interval; mark a third Point, from whence the desired Perpendi­cular c, a, is to be drawn, and by this Method you may ex­amine whether any Line be truly Perpendicular.

[figure]

If a given Point, or distance be given to draw a Parallel.

LEt the Line, a, b, be gi­ven and the distance be fixed at the Point, c; from the said c, draw at pleasure the right Line c, b; then from the Point c, describe the the Arch b, d; In like, and at the same opening of the Compass from b, describe the Arch c, a; take the distance a, c, and transfer it on the Arch b, d, which makes out the Point d, through which is drawn the Parallel Line c, d.

[figure]

To divide a given Line into given Parts.

TAke a Line at pleasure; for Example, g, e, which must be bigger than the given Line. This Line divide by opening the Compass into as many equal Parts as are designed; as suppose, from both Extremities of the Line so divided, describe the Arches intersecting each other in v, whence the Aequilateral Triangle u, g, e, is to be made; then from the Point u, draw Lines to the designed Sections in the lower Line; this done, if the Line a, o, be given to be divided into 5 Parts; mark out the length thereof in both sides of this Triangle, by fixing the other Point of the Compass in the Point u; then make the said Line a, o, between the Points thus marked, and thus the designed Division will be finish'd; and in the the same manner may any other Division what­soever be made.

[figure]

Two right Lines being given, to find a mean Line proportional.

LEt 2 Lines be given, and both placed in a direct Line, one by the other, viz. l, u, and u, r, which are to make as it were one Line in all, out of the middle whereof m, make a Semy­circle l, t, r; then erect the Perpendicular u, t, [Page 58] in the Point of the Conjunction of the Lines, l, u, and u, r. This Perpendicular Line touching the Circle will be the middle Proportional Line sought; for as the Line l, u, is to the Line u, t, so is the Line u, t, to the Line u, r, which in Numbers hath the same Propor­tion to the 2d, as the 2d hath to the 1st, as is de­monstrated from Euclid. 10

[figure]

Three points being given, so as not placed in a direct Line, to describe a Circle, which shall strike through them all.

MAke the three Points a, b, c, described at pleasure, keeping the same opening Arches from the Points o, and b, cutting each other double in one of the opposite Parts; then alter­ing 20 the opening of the Compasses, as occasion re­quires, describe in like manner double in the o­ther opposite Part Arches intersecting each other from the Points b, and c; then through the Sections of these Arches draw right Lines; the Point of Con­course will be the Center of 30 the Circle drawn.

[figure]

A Circle being given, to find the Center thereof.

DRaw from one part of the Circle, to the op­posite Part; as suppose the Line a, b; this Line divide into 2 equal Parts, which will pass through the Center of the Circle; but if this Line 40 be also divided by the Line c, d, into 2 equal Parts, they will intersect each other in the Center. And thus a Circle is divided into 4 equal Parts, if a Line being drawn through the Center, this Line will be also divided into 2 equal Parts, and by this, means also a Square may be inscribed in a Circle, if Lines be drawn through the extremities of those 50 Lines; So likewise by divi­ding it into 6 Parts a He [...]agon may be described, and proportionably an Octagon, and Dodecagon, &c. according as more are drawn, and more Divisions made.

[figure]

To make an Elipsis, or Oval Figure.

DEscribe two Circ [...]es, one through the Center of the other, fixing the Foot of the Com­p [...]s 60 at the same opening in its Circumference; then from a, or any other part of the Circle draw a Line through the Center to the Circumference in b, which Line is the extention of the Compass, by which the Elipsis is made, by placing one Foot in the inter­sections of the Circles, and joyn­ing them by Arches.

[figure]

A right Line being given, to describe upon it an Equilateral Triangle.

THe Compass being opened to the length of the Line a, b, from a, and b, the 2 ex­treams of the said Line, des­cribe the Arches intersecting each other in c; then from the Point of that Section draw the Sides c, a, and c, b, and thereby the said Triangle is compleated:

[figure]

A right Line being given, to describe a Square up­on it.

THe Line a, b, being given, erect upon a, the extremity of the said Line the perpen­dicuar a, c, according to the length of the Line a, b; then from the Points b; and c, describe the Arches in­tersecting each other in d; then draw 2 other Lines to the Point of that Section, and the work is perfected.

[figure]

To describe a Pentagon, or to find the Sides of it in a given Circle.

A Circle being drawn, and divided into 4 equal Parts, divide the Semidiameter a, b, into 2 Parts in f; then from the Point f, ex­tend the Compass to the Point c, and in that ex­tention f, c, describe the Arch c, h; then again ex­tend the Compass from c, to the Point h, and this last ex­tention will give the Side of the Pentagon g, or five-sided Figure. How to draw a sixth seventh or eighth to a twelfth-sided Figure, or a Dodecagon, which is taught in Fortifica­tion.

[figure]

An Oblong being given, to constitute a Square equal to it.

IF a mean proportion be found between the 2 Lines containing the same Angle of the Oblong, that mean proportioanl will be the Side of the said Square.

A Square being given, to find an Oblong equal to it.

DIvide the Side a, c, and afterwards the Side d, e, into 3 equal Parts; then by a third [Page 59] Part to a, and likewise by a third Part to f; from the Point b, extend at pleasure the Lines b, c, and b, f, and the Sides a, c, f, and d, c, e; so by the In­tersections made in the Points c, and f, the quan­tity of the sought Rect­angle is resolved.

[figure]

A Circle being given, to make a Triangle equal to 10 it.

LEt a Perpendicular be erected, or the ex­tream Point of the Semidiameter of a Cir­cle, and let the length of the Perpendicular be e­qual to the Perimeter, or Circumference of the Circle; then from the Center draw a Line to the extremity of the Perpendicular, and this will produce a Triangle equal to a Circle. 20

ALTIMETRY.

ALtimery or the Art of taking Altitudes, or the Heighth of the Sun Moon, or Stars; al­so of Hills, Trees, Steeples, &c. is performed by several Instruments, but chiefly by the Quadrant; 30 the Figure of which is here described.

[figure]

40

The Quadrant may be made of any bigness, the larger the more exact.

The Arch of the Quadrant is divided into 50 90 Degrees, viz. the fourth part of a Circle; and these Degrees into Parts, or Minutes, if so possi­ble, numbred from 10 to 90 Degrees. In this Quadrant is inscribed the Quadrant C, E, F, G, whose Sides G, F, and F, E, are divided into 50 equal Parts; On the Side C, F, are the Parts of the right Shadow; on the other Side E, F, are the Parts of the contrary Shadow. In the Center at C, there is a Thread fixed with a Plummet hanging at it; and on the Sides C, E, there are 60 placed 2 Sights.

The use of the Quadrant.

THe use of the Quadrant is for the finding the Altitude of the Sun, Moon, or Stars, which is as follows; First in observing the Altitude of the Sun, hold up the Quadrant, the String and Plummet hanging at the Center C; then turn the Sights to the Sun till the Shade of the Sight next the Center C, strikes on the other Sight at E, and un­til the Sun Shine through both the Sights. Mark what Degree the Thread cuts on the Arch of the Quadrant, and that is the Suns Altitude, reckoned from 10 to 20.

In observing the Altitude of the Moon, or Stars, hold up the Quadrant, and look through both Sights, until you see the Moon, or Star you observe, and the Degree the Thread cuts is the Altitude observed.

The best and surest way in taking the Heighth of any Land-Object, is by the Rule of Proportion, because then any Station will do the work. But Heights may be taken without it, provided the Ground admit. Mark the place whose Heighth you would know, and look through the Sights to the place, going backwards and forwards un­til the Thread and Plummet hanging at C, fall on 45 Degrees of the Quadrant, or else upon one half of the Parts of the right and contrary Shadow; then conclude the Heighth to be equal to the Distance. If it fall upon one half of the Parts of the right Shadow, then is the Heighth but half the Distance; if upon one Quarter, then the Heighth is but a Quarter of the Distance; and if it fall on three Quarters, then is the Heighth three Quarters of the Distance.

Now of the Parts of Contrary Shadow; if the Thread fall upon half the parts, then is the Heighth double to the Distance, if it fall half way, then this and the Line whereon the Sights are placed, is the Heighth 4 times the Dist­ance.

To perform this by Arithmetical operation; take any Station, and look through or by the edge of the Sights, to the top of any Tree or Steeple; then mark whether the Thread fall upon the Parts of right or contrary Shadow; if on right Shadow, then the proportion is as the whole parts, viz. 50 are to the parts cut, so is the distance to the Heighth; And on the contrary, if the Thread and Plummet fall on the contrary Shadow, then say, as the parts cut are to the whose Scale, or 50, so is the distance to the Heighth: observing this for a general Rule, It is easy to find any Heighth that is accessable.

To find the Heighth of any Steeple that you cannot ap­proach to Measure the distance, because of Water, or other Obstructions.

THis is done by two Observations; First stand, and observe the Heighth, and you'l find the Thread fall on 35 Parts of right Shadow; and because you cannot measure to the Steepl [...], suppose the distance 90 Yards; then say, as 50 the whole Parts of right Shadow is to 35 Parts cut by the Thread; so is 40 Yards the supposed distance to 28 the supposed Heighth.

Then going a little farther in a Streight Line from the Steeple observed, you'l find the Thread to fall upon 33 Parts of right Shadow; then say as 33 Parts cut by the Thread is to the [Page 60] whole Scale 50, so is 28, the supposed Heighth to 42 Yards 1 Foot, 3 Inches, the supposed dist­ance of the Second Station, viz. 2 Yards, 1 Foot, 3 Inches.

But in measuring the Sationary Distance, you'l find it to be only 2 Yards, 3 Inches; then say as 2 Yards 1 Foot 3 Inches the supposed distance is to 2 Yards 3 Inches the true one, so is 28 Yards the supposed Heighth to 44 Yards, 4 Inches the true one. Then you may by this find the true 10 distance to the Foot of the Steeple, by saying, as 28 Yards, the supposed Heighth is to 24 Yards 4 Inches the true one, so is 42 Yards, 1 Foot, 3 Inches the supposed distance from the second Station, to 36 Yards, 1 Foot 7 Inches the true distance from the second Station to the Foot of the Steeple; and for the distance of the first Station taken away, the difference of the two Stations 2 Yards, 3 Inches, and the remainder will be the distance of the first Station to the Steeple.

If the Thread fall upon the Parts of contrary Shadow, observe only the Rules before laid down.

Note, when you are to find a distance, the Heighth given, or supposed, you are to use the proportion of contrary Shadow in right, and right in contrary; as in the last example in right Sha­dow, that is, as the parts cut is to the whole Scale, which is the proportion of contrary Shadow, and in contrary Shadow as the whole Scale is to the parts cut.

Note also, that in taking the Heights you are to add always the Heighth of your Eye from the Ground.

PLANIMETRY, OR SURVEYING.

AMongst the many Instruments that have been invented for the Surveying of Land, none is in more esteem than the plain Ta­ble, as it is at this Day improved, it being the most absolute of all others for the said purpose, in that it performs whatsoever may be done either by the Theodolite, Circumferentor, or any other Instru­ment, and that with the same ease and exactness.

For a particular Description of it I refer you to the fourth Chapter of the Second Book of Ley­borns 10 compleat Surveyor.

The Chain that is made use of in this Treatise is Bathburns of two Statute Poles or Perches, each Pole being in length 16 ½ Foot, or 198 Inches, which is divided into 10 equal Parts, called Primes, containing 19 9/5 Inches; and these Primes subdivided into 10 other equal Parts, called Se­conds.

In the eighth Chap. of Leyborns Second Book you have the Description of the Protractor, and 20 the ninth the Description of several Scales, very useful for the ready laying down of Lines and Angles, according to any assigned quantity, all which Instruments may be had at any Instrument-makers.

The Principles of Geometry necessary to the practice of Surveying being handled in the Treatise of Parctical Geometry, are omitted here; so that I shall proceed to the Art it self.30

CHAP. I.
Of the ordinary Scale, with the Line of Cords thereon described.

FOr this purpose be provided with a Ruler con­teyning in length 7 or 8 Inches, and in breadth 1 ½ Inch, upon which (on the one side) place 2 Scales, one of 11, the other of 12 in an Inch. Also on the same Side Describe a Line of Cords, 2 Inches in length, or less, of 60, or 90 Degrees, whose Radius, or 60 Degrees thereof will be equal to the Semidiameter of the same Circle.

On the other side after the order of these, place divers other Scales, as of, 16, 20, 24, &c. in an Inch, so that you have an Instrument useful for divers occasions. To use with this Scale you must have a Pair of Brass Compasses with steel Points, as also a near Pair of Callem Compasses, with Screws to alter the Points, as to draw with Black Lead, or the like, which will be useful for the beautifying your Plats after protracted.

CHAP. II.
How to reduce Statute Measure to that which is Customary.

BY the Statute of 33 Edw. 1. an Acre of 10 Ground is to contain 160 Square Perches; but in many parts of this Kingdom, through long Custom, other quantities have been received, cal­led Customary, viz. 18, 20, 24, and 28 Foot to the Perch; so that the Surveyor should be well experienced to reduce one to the other. For Ex­ample of which.

To reduce 5 Acres, 2 Rods, 20 Perches measu­red by the 18 Foot Pole into Statute Measure, seek out the least proportional Terms between 18 Foot 20 and 16 ½ Foot; to effect which do thus: Because 16 ½ beareth a Fraction reduce it into Halves, and to make them of one denomination also, reduce 18 into Halves, and they will stand thus 11/36 which abbreviated by 3, by saying How many times 3 in 33; the Answer is 11; The like do by 36, which will be 12; so will the two proportional Terms between 16 ½ and 18, be 11 and 12.

This done, reduce your given quantity 5 Acres, 2 Rods and 20 Perches, into Perches, which 30 makes 900 Perches: and considering that what proportion the Square of 11, which is 121, bears to the Square 12, which is 144, the same pro­portion doth the Acre of 16 ½ Foot Pole, bear to an Acre of 18 Foot.

Now for that the greater Measure is to be re­duced into the lesser, multiply the given Quantity 900 Perches, by 144, the greater Square, and the product will be 129600, which divided by 121, the Quotient will be 1071 9-/121 Perches, which be­ing 40 reduced into Acres giveth 6 Acres, 2 Rods, 31 Perches, and -9-/121 parts of a Perch for the quan­tity of Acres according to Statute Measure.

But contrary-wise suppose it had been required to reduce Statute Measure into Customary, then you should have multiplied 900 Perches (your given Quantity) by 121, your lesser Square, (be­cause the lesser Measure is to be reduced into the greater) the Product will be 108900, which be­ing divided by the greater Square 144, the Quo­tient 50 will be 756 ¼, which reduced into Acres, is 4 Acres, 2 Rods, 36 ¼ Perches.

The same Method is to be observed with any other Customary Quantity, as when you measure with the Perch of 20, 24, or 28 Foot.

CHAP. III.
To reduce Perches into Acres, and 60 the contrary.

BY the Statute of 33 Edw: 1. as aforesaid, an Acre of Ground is to contain 169 square Perches, and is every Rod of Land 40 Square Perches: Therefore if any Number of Perches be required to be put into Acres, the Number given is to be divided by 160, and the Quotient shews the Acres; But if any thing remain (if under 40) they are Perches; and if they exceed 40, divide it by 40, which are the Number of Perches con­tained in a Rod, and the Quotient are Rods, and the Remainder Perches.

For Example, 5267 Perches being given to be reduced into Acres: First divide the 5267 by 160, and the Quotient will be 32, and 147 re­mains, which divide by 40, and the Quotient will be 3, and 27 remaining, so that the whole a­mounts to 32 Acres, 3 Rods and 27 Perches.

To reduce Acres into Perches.

THis is but the converse of the former, for whereas before to bring Perches into Acres you divided by 160, you must now to turn Acres into Perches, multiply by 160.

For Example; Let 32 Acres, 3 Rods and 27 Perches be given to be reduced into Perches; First multiply the 32 Acres by 160; and the Pro­duct will be 5120; then multiply the 3 Rods by 40, the Product will be 120; these 2 Products, and the 27 Perches being added together, the Sum will be 5267, and so many Perches are con­tained in the foresaid Number of Acres, Rods and Perches.

CHAP. IV.
Sheweth how to multiply the several Fractions of your Chain together, as if they were whole Numbers.

SUppose you were to multiply 16 Vnites, 2 Primes, by 1 Vnite, 3 Primes, 2 Seconds. Place your Numbers in all respects as if whole Num­bers, but over every Fraction of your Multipli­cand place a Prick, or Point, as in this Example; The Multiplicand contains only one Fraction, which is 2, over which place a Prick, and at the end of your Multiplier place as many Pricks as there are Fractions contained in that Number, which in this Example are 2, viz. 3, and 2; behind which Figures place 2 Pricks, and the Number will stand thus; Under which draw a Line, and Multiply these two Numbers together in all respects as if they were whole Numbers, and then the Work will stand thus, your Product of your Mul­tiplication being 21384. Now because in your two Numbers, viz. your Multi­plicand, and your Multiplier there are 3 Fractions, viz. one in your Multipli­cand, and 2 in your Multiplier, you must therefore with a Dash of your Pen cut off the 3 last Figures of your Product towards your Right Hand, and then will your Product

  • 162
  • 132
  • 162
  • 132
  • 324
  • 486
  • 162
  • 21384

[Page 62] stand thus: 21384. The 3 last Figures whereof are the Numerator of a Fraction, whose Denominator is 1000, and the other 2 Figures towards your Lest Hand are Integers of your Multiplication; so that the Sum of this Multiplication is 21 Perches 114/1000 parts of a Perch, which is something more than a third part of a Perch.

CHAP. V.10
Sheweth how to take the Plot of a Field (upon your plain Table) at one Station, taken in any part of the same Field, from whence 20 all the Angles of the Field may be perceived.

FOr effecting this, go round the Field, placing at every Angle Marks, then chuse some convenient place, about the middle thereof, from whence you may see all the said Marks, and there place your Instrument, with a Sheet of Paper; stretch thereon the Needle, hanging directly over 30 the Meridian Line in your Card, which is much to be observed, especially when you Survey ma­ny Severals; then making a Mark about the mid­dle of your Paper, which represents that part of the Field where your first Instrument stands, and laying your Ruler upon this Point, direct your Sights to the several Angles where you before placed your Marks, and draw Lines by the Side of your Rules upon your Paper; then measure the distance of every of these Marks from your In­strument, 40 and by your Scale set the same distances upon the Lines drawn upon your Table, mak­ing small Marks with the Points of your Compas­ses, or Black-lead at the end of every one of them; then Lines being drawn by these Points from one to another, you shall have upon your Table the exact Plot of the Field, with all its Sides and Angles.

Suppose you were to take the Plot of the Field A, B, C, D, E, F. having placed Marks in 50 several Angles thereof, as at A, B, C, D, E, F, make choise of some convenient Place about the mid­dle of the Field, where you may see all your Marks before placed in the several Angles, and there place your Instrument; which Place let it be O; then turn your In­strument about until the Needle hang directly o­ver the Meridian Line of the Card noted at the 60 South end with a Cross, and at the North end with a Flower-delis, which Line is represented in the following Figure, with M, N.

[figure]

Your Instrument thus placed, with a Sheet of Paper thereupon, make a Mark with Black-lead, or otherwise upon the Paper, which Mark repre­sents the place of your standing; then applying your Index to this Point, direct your Sight to your first Mark at A, and the Index resting there, draw a Line by the Side; then measure the dist­ance from O, the place of your Instrument, to A, the Mark, which suppose to be 40 Perches; then take 40 Perches from one of your Scales, and apply that distance in your Table from O, to A, and at A, make a Mark; then direct your Sight to B, your second Mark, and draw a Line by the side of your Index, as aforesaid; then mea­sure the distance from your Instrument at O, to your Mark B, which suppose 45 Perches. This distance must be taken from your Scale, and set upon your Table from O to B, and at B, make another Mark.

Then direct your Sight to a third Mark at C, and draw a Line by the Side of the Index, and measure the distance from O, to C, which suppose 42 Perches; this distance being taken from your Scale, and applyed to your Table from O, to C, shall give you the Point C, representing your third Mark.

In this manner you must proceed with the test of the Marks at D, E, and F, or more, if the Field had consisted of more Angles.

Lastly when (according to the former Direct­ions) you have found all the Marks A, B, C, D, E, and F, upon your Table, draw Lines from one Mark to another, till you conclude where you began. For Example, suppose you began at A, and then to B, and C, so proceeding round a­bout the Field, till you come to A, again; then draw a Line fram A, your first Mark, to B, your second Mark, and a Line from B, your second Mark to C, your third Mark, and sron C, your third Marck to D, your fourth Mark, and like­wise from D, to E, from E, to F, and from F to A, where you first began; then will the Lines AB, BC, CD, DE, EF, and FA, be the exact Figure of the Field; the Sides and Angles of the said Figure bearing an exact proportion to those in the Field, and the Pricked Lines, M, N repre­sent the Meridian Line.

Another Example to take the Plot of a Field by help of the Degrees on the frame of your Plain-Table, when either Rain, or Wind so obstructs you that you cannot keep a Sheet of Paper upon your Table, and by measuring as aforesaid.

HAving placed Marks at the several Angles of the Field, as before directed, and made choise of some convenient place about the mid­dle thereof, as aforesaid, place there your Instrument as already directed; then direct your Sights to your first Mark at A, noting the Degrees cut by the Index on the frame of the Table, which sup­pose 40 Degrees, 15 Minutes, which must be noted down in your Field-Book in the first and second Colums thereof; then measure the distance from O, the place of the Instrument, to A, your first Mark, which suppose 40 Perches, which [Page 63] must be placed in the third Colum of your Field-Book. Then direct your Sight to B, your second Mark, noting the Degreees cut by the Index, which suppose to be 88, and the distance O, B, 45 Perches; the 88 Degrees must be noted in the first Colum of your Field-Book, and the 45 Perches in the third Colum.

Then direct your Sight to C, the third Mark, and note the Degrees cut by the Index, which sup­pose 130 Degrees 45 Minutes, and let the dist­ance 10 O, C, be 42 Perches; the 130 Degrees, 45 Minutes must be noted in the first and second Co­lums of your said Book, and the 42 Perches in the third Colum.

Then direct your Sights to D, your fourth Mark, noting the Degrees out by the Index on the Frame of the Table, which let be 200 Degrees, 30 Minutes.

By the way note, that in the using the Degrees on the Frame of your Table, that having passed 20 180 Degrees, which is the Line M, N, represent­ing the Meridian-Line, you must then count the Degrees backward, according as they are num­bred on the Frame of the Table, from 190 to 360.

Then Measure the distance O, D, which let be 60 Perches 4 Primes; these 200 Degrees, 30 Minutes must be noted in the first and second Colums of your Field-Book, and 60 Perches, 4 Primes in the third and fourth Colums there­of.30

Then direct your Sight to E your Fifth Mark, the Index cutting 250 Degrees, and the distance O, E, being 39 Perches; these must be noted in your said Book, the 250 Degrees in the first Co­lum, and the 30 Perches in the third.

Lastly direct your Sights to F, your last Mark, the Index cutting 310 Degrees, and the distance O, F, being 50 Perches; these must be no­ted down in your Field-Book in all respect as be­fore,40 viz. the 310 Degrees in the first Colum, and the 50 Perches in the third, and then will your Notes collected in your Field-Book stand, as in the following Table.

 Deg.Mi.Pe.Pri.
A4015400
B88 450
C13045420
D20030604
E250 390
F310 500

50

Further Directions how to Protract, or lay down upon Paper any Observations taken according to the Directions aforesaid.

DRaw upon a Sheet of white Paper a Line 60 at length, representing the Line M, N, in the aforesaid Figure; then make choise of some Point or other in that Line to represent your Station in the Field, upon which place the Center of your Protractor, so that the Line N, S, of your Protractor may lye directly upon the Line M, N; then laying your Field-Book before you, and see­ing that at your first Observation noted with A, the Index cut 40 Degrees, 15 Minutes, you must therefore against the 40 Degrees, 15 Minutes of your Protractor, make a Mark upon your Paper, which must be represented by A.

Secondly, Seeing the Degrees cut at your second Observation were 88, make a Mark upon your Paper against 88 Degrees, which Mark with B.

Thirdly, The Degrees cut at your third Obser­vation were 130, and 45 Minutes, therefore a­gainst the same make a Mark upon your Paper, as C.

Fourthly, The Degrees cut by the Index at your fourth Observation, being 200 and 30 Minutes, you must against 120 Degrees, 30 Minutes of your Protractor make a Mark upon your Paper, as signified by D.

Fifthly, Seeing the Degrees cut at the fifth Ob­servation were 250, make a Mark thereat, as E.

Lastly, The Degrees cut at your last Observa­tion were 310, therefore make a Mark thereat, as F.

Having thus Protracted all the Degrees of your several Observations, take away your Protractor, and laying a Ruler to the Center O, draw Lines by those Points, which will be OA, OB, OC, OD, OE, and OF. This done, you must observe by your Field-Book the length of every Line.

As the Line A, O, your first Observation was 40 Perches, therefore 40 being taken from your Scale and set upon your Paper from O to A, shall give you the Point A, upon your Paper.

Secondly, The length of your second Line be­ing 45 Perches, which take from your Scale, and place it on your Paper from O, to B.

Thirdly, The Line O, C, being 42 Perches, which take from your Scale, and set upon your Paper from O to C.

And in this manner must you proceed with the rest of the Lines, as OD, OE, and OF.

Lastly, Draw the Lines AB, BC, CD, DE, EF, and FA, and so you shall have the exact Figure of your Field upon the Paper.

CHAP. VI.
Sheweth how to take the Plot of a Field upon your Plain Table at one Station, taken in any Angle of the same Field, from whence all the other Angles of the Field may be discerned, by measuring from the Stationary Angle to all the other Angles.

MAke choise of some Angle in the Field, from whence all the other Angles may be [Page 64] seen, and there place your Instrument Horizontal, the Needle directly over the Meridian-line, and a sheet of Paper stretched on your Table, then make choice of a Point on your Paper to repre­sent your Station, which let be G; then direct your Sights to A, and draw a Line on your Paper as G, A, and measure the distance G, A, as is directed in the foregoing Chapter; then direct your Sights to B, your second Mark, and there likewise draw a Line G, B, measuring the distance 10 G, B, as is directed in the said Chapter. In like manner direct your Sights to C, D, E, and F, drawing Lines by the side of your Index at e­very Observation, and measuring with your Chain the distance from G, the place of your

[figure]

standing, to the several Angles of the Field A, B, C, D, E, and F, which distances being taken in your Compasses from 20 your Scale, and set upon your Paper from G, up­on the Lines GA, GB, GC, GD, GE, and GF, so shall you have on your Paper the Marks, A, B, C, D, E, and F, by which Marks draw Lines, as GA, AB, BC, CD, DE, EF, and FG, and so shall you have the true Figure of the Field des­cribed on your Paper,

To draw the Plot of a Field at one Sta­tion 30 taken in any Angle of the said Field, and by measuring round about it without crossing it.

LEt the the Figure A, B, C, D, E, F, G, be the Figure of the Field to be measured. Then having placed Marks at the several Angles, and made choise of an Angle for your Instrument, suppose G, direct your Sights to A, and draw up­on 40 the Table the Lines G, B; then direct your Sights to B, draw the Line G, B; then direct your Sights to C, draw the Line GC, and conse­quently the Lines GD, GE, and G, F.

Having thus done, measure with your Chain the distance from G, to A, which suppose 40 Perches, which take from your Scale, and 1 Foot of the Compasses placed in G, with the other draw the Arch A, and draw the Line G, A.

Secondly, Measure with your Chain the side 50 A, B, which suppose 53 Perches; this being taken in your Compasses from your Scale, place 1 Foot in A, and with the other Foot draw the Arch B.

Thirdly, Measure the side B, C, which let be 59 Perches; and that being taken in your Com­passes from your Scale, place one Foot in B, and with the other draw the Arch, C.

Fourthly, Measure the side C, D, 28 Perches, and take that distance in the Compasses, placing one 60 Foot in C, and with the other drawing the Arch D.

Fifthly, Measure, the Side D, E, 54 Perches, and take that distance from your Scale, placing one Foot of the Compasses in D, and with the other draw the Arch E.

Sixthly, Measure the Side E, F, 49 Perches; and taking the distance from your Scale, place one Foot of your Compasses in E, and with the other draw the Arch F: And thus shall the several Arches cut the several Lines GA, GB, GC, GD, GE, and GF, in the Points A, B, C, D, E, F.

Lastly, By these Points draw Lines from one to the other, as AB, BC, CD, DE, EF, FG, and GA, and so shall you have upon your Paper on your Table the exact Figure of the Field, the Sides and Angles thereof being in all respects propor­tional to those taken according to the Doctrine of the last.

To take the Plot of a Field at one Sta­tion, taken in any Angle thereof, from whence all the other Angles may be seen, by help of the Degrees described on the Frame of the Plain-Table, and by mea­suring from your Station to every of the other Angles.

PLanting your Instrument at G, as aforesaid, direct your Sights to B, as your first Mark, (for the Line G, A, lying under the Meridian Line M, N, must be measured in the last place) noting the Degrees cut by the Index on the Frame of the Table, which suppose 47 Degrees, which must be noted in the first Colum of your Field-Book; then with your Chain measure the distance from your Station at G, to the Angle B, which let be 50 Perches, which place in the third Colum of your Field-Book, according to the former Directi­ons.

2. Direct your Sights to C, noting the De­grees there cut, which suppose 88 Degrees, 15 Minutes, which place in the first and second Co­lums in your Field-Book; then measure the dist­ance G, C, which let be 60 Perches, and note them in the third Colum of your Field-Book.

3. Direct your Sights to D, the Degrees cut being 120, and the distance G, D, 65 Perches; note these in your Field-Book as aforesaid. And in this manner proceed with the other Marks E, F, and A, and then having noted them all, your col­lected Notes in your Field-Book will be as fol­low.

 Degrees.Minutes.Perches.Primes.
B4700500
C8815600
D12000650
E16530567
F19300402
A34845340

To protract any Observations taken according to the Doctrine aforesaid.

HAving collected into your Field-Book the quantity of the several Angles, and the Length of the Lines, proceed to Protraction in this manner.

1. Draw the Meridian Line M, N; then make choise of a Point therein, representing your Sta­tionary [Page 65] Angle, as at G, to which Point apply the Center of your Protractor the Semicircle upwards; then laying your Field-Book before you, you may perceive that at your first Observation (which was at B) your Index cut 47 Degrees, and make a Mark against it, drawing a Line G, B.

2. The Degrees cut at your second Observa­tion at C, being 88 Degrees, 15 Minutes, make a Mark likewise against 88 Degrees, 15 Minutes of your Protractor, and draw the Line G, C. 10

3. The Degrees cut at your third Observation being 120 Degrees of your Protractor, draw the Line G, D. And in this manner must you proceed with the rest of your Observation, viz. with the Line GE, GF, and GA.

Having thus finished your Angular Observations, proceed to your lineal, to wit, the length of your Lines noted in the third and fourth Colums of your Field-Book.

And seeing that the Length of your first Line 20 GB, was 50 Perches, take 50 from your Scale, and apply that distance to your Paper from G, to B.

2. The distance of your second Line GC, be­ing 60 Perches, take 60 from your Scale, and apply the distance to your Paper from G, to C.

3. The distance of your third Mark GD, be­ing 65 Perches, take that distance from your Scale, and apply it to your Paper from the Point G, to D. 30

In all respects as before proceed with the mea­suring of all the other Lines about the Field, were they never so many.

Lastly, If you draw the Lines AB, BC, CD, DE, EF, FG, and GA, you shall have upon your Pa­per the exact Figure of your Field.

And if you find these Operations not to a­gree, you had best examine, and reform the Error.40

CHAP. VII.
How to take the Plot of a Field at two Stations, upon a Sheet of Paper stretched on your Table,50 and by measuring from the Sta­tions to the visible Angles, the Field being so irregular that from no one place thereof all the An­gles can be seen.

SUppose A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, I, is the Figure 60 of the Field to be drawn upon the Plain-Table, now because you cannot from any one place thereof see all the Angles at once, there­fore make choise of two several Stations, which let be O, and Q. Then upon the Paper on your Table make a Mark, as Q. representing your first Station. This done, place your Instrument at Q, the Needle hanging directly over the Meridian-Line of your Card, as represented by the Line M, Q, N.

The Instrument being there fastned, direct your Sights to C, and draw upon your Table the Line Q, C, measuring the distance from Q to C, and setting that distance on the Table from Q to G.

2. Direct your Sights to D, and draw your Line Q, D, measuring the Distance Q, D, as be­fore.

3. Direct your Sights to E, and draw the Line Q, E.

4. Direct your Sights to F, and draw the Line Q, F.

[figure]

5 Direct your Sights to G, and draw the Line Q, G.

6. Direct your Sights to H, and draw the Line Q, H.

7. Direct your Sights to O, your second Sta­tion, and draw the Line Q, O, measuring the dist­ance from Q, to O, and by your Scale and Com­pass set off your Stationary distance upon your Table from Q to O.

Having thus made your Observation of all the Angles visible from the Station Q, and drawn Lines from Q, upon your Table, and likewise measured the distance from Q, to every one of them, you may then according to the Directions in the first part of the aforegoing Chapter draw the Line CD, DE, EF, FG, and GH, and so you have that part of the Field finished from your first Station at Q.

Then remove your Instrument to O, your se­cond Station, and there place it in all respects as before, the Needle hanging over the Meridian-Line of your Card represented in the second Sta­tion by the Line M, O, N.

Having thus placed your Instrument at O, make observation of the Angles I, A, and B, in all respects as you did before with the Angles, C, D, E, F, G, H, and having drawn the Lines OI, OA, C, B, and measured their distances from O, draw the Lines HI, IA, AB, and BC, and so you shall have upon your Table the Figure of the Field.

To perform the work of this Chapter by the Degrees on the Frame of the Table.

THis differeth nothing from the work of the middle part of the sixth Chapter. Having therefore placed your Instrument at Q, according to the aforesaid Directions, guide your Sights to C, observing the Degrees and Minutes cut by the Index on the Frame of your Table, which Degrees and Minutes place in the first and second Colums of your Field-Book. Then measure with your Chain the distance from your Station Q to the Angle C, and set that distance down in the third and fourth Colums of your Field-Book, as alrea­dy treated of. After this manner do with all the Angles visible at your first Station, viz. with the [Page 66] Angles, C, D, E, F, G, H, measuring the distance of every Line, as aforesaid.

Then remove your Instrument to O, your se­cond Station, and make observation of the sever­al Lines and Angles, I, A, and B, in all respects, as you did before with the Lines and Angles C, D, E, F, G, and H, which being collected into your Field-Book according to the directions afore­said.

  Degrees.Min.Perches.Prime.
 C4715252
 D8800370
1 Station Q.E13530351
 F20000280
 G27015484
 H34100330

10

The Stationary distance O, Q, 50 Perches, and the Angle O, Q, M, or N, O, Q, 10 Degrees, be­ing the Declination of your Stationary Line from 20 the Meridian Line.

 I34130230
2 Station O.A3000211
 C8445354

CHAP. VIII.30
To take the Plot of a Field upon your Plain Table at two Stations taken within the same Field, with­out tedious travelling about it, by measuring only the Stationary distance.40

IT may so happen that the plotting of a Field must be according to these following Direct­ions; yet make as little use thereof as may be, in regard of the acutness of the Angles, which is more lyable to Error than any of the former ways, though grounded upon a firm Geometrical Principle.

[figure]

50

Let A, B, C, D, E, F, and G, be the Figure of 60 a Field, and let the two Stations within the same be O and Q.

Having placed your Instrument at O, for your first Station, the Needle hanging directly over the Meridian-Line of the Card, you must 1st. Di­rect your Sights to your first Angle at A, and draw the Line O, A. Secondly Direct your Sights to B, and draw the Line O, B. Thirdly to C, and draw the Line O, C. Fourthly to D, and draw the Line O, D. Fifthly, to E, and draw the Line O, E. Sixthly to F, and draw the Line O, F. Seventhly to G, and draw the Line O G, and Eightly direct your Sights to H, and draw the Line O, A.

This done, direct your Sights to your second Station at Q, and draw the Line O, Q, upon your Table; then with your Chain measure out your Stationary distance O, Q, 40 Perches; and re­moving your Instrument to Q. (the Needle over the Meridian Line of the Card) make observation as before at O. that is, direct your Sights first to A, drawing the Line Q, A, and so proceed to the rest as aforesaid.

By the Figure you may see where the correspon­dent Lines at each Station intersect; as first the Lines O, A, and Q, A, intersect, or cross each other at A. Secondly, The Lines O, B, and Q, B, cross at B. Thirdly, The Lines O, C, and Q, C, cross at C. Fourthly, The Lines O, D, and Q, D, cross at D. Fifthly, The Lines O, E, and Q, E, cross at E. Sixth­ly The Lines O, F, and Q, F, intersect at F. Seventh­ly, The Lines O, G, and Q G, cross at G, and Eightly, The Lines O, H, and Q, H, cross each other at H.

Therefore if from these Points of intersection you draw Lines from one to the other, you have upon your Paper the exact proportion of your Field, to wit the Lines AB, BC, CD, &c.

And by this kind of plotting, you will find a quick dispatch, as not obliged to observe De­grees cut, or to measure any Distances, except only between you Stations; but by reason of the acuteness of the Angles, (without exact draw­ing of your Lines, and observing the precise Points of intersection) you may run into gross Absurdities, and Mistakes.

CHAP. IX.
To take, or draw the Plot of a great Champain Plain, by the help of the Degrees on the Frame of the Table.

LEt A, B, C, D, be the Champain Plain; then first place your Instrument at A, laying the Index on the Diameter of the Table, and turning the whole Instrument about until through the Sights you see the Angle at B; where fix the In­strument, and turn the Index about until through the Sights you see the Angle on the other side of your Station at D, ob­serving the Degrees cut by the Index, which sup­pose 71, which is the quantity of the Angle B, A, D. Then measure with

[figure]

[Page 67] your Chain the distance A D, which is 31 Per­ches, 2 Primes; the 71 Degrees must be noted in the first Colum of your Field-Book, and the 31 Perches, 2 Primes, in the third and fourth Co­lums, as hath been shewed before.

Secondly, Remove your Instrument to the next Angle at D, and laying the Index on the Diame­ter thereof, direct your Sights to the last Station at A, and there fix the Instrument; then turn the Index about until you see the next Angle at C, 10 observing the Degrees there cut, which suppose 86, which is the quantity of Degrees of the Ang­le A, D, C; then measure the distance. D C, 31 Perches in the third Colum of your Field-Book.

Thirdly, Remove your Instrument to G, and laying the Index on the Diameter thereof, direct your Sights to D, and then fasten the Instrument. Then turn the Index about until through the Sights you see the next Angle at B, observing the 20 Degrees cut, which suppose 73, and 30 Minutes; and measure the Distance C B, 22 Perches, 3 Primes, the 73 Degrees, 30 Minutes must be pla­ced in the first and second Colums of your Field-Book, and the 22 Perches, 3 Primes in the third and fourth Colums.

Lastly, Remove your Instrument to B, and laying the Index on the Diameter thereof, direct your Sights to C, and then fix the Instrument; then move the Index about until through the 30 the Sights you see the Angle at A, where you be­gan, noteing the Degrees there cut, which are 129, and 30 Minutes, which is the quantity of the Angle C, B, A; then with your Chain the distance from B, to A, 25 Perches, 5 Primes, these 129 Degrees, 30 Minutes, and the 25 Perches, 5 Primes must be noted in your Field-Book, as a­foresaid, and then will they stand thus.

 Degrees.Minutes.Perches.Primes.
A7100322
D8600310
C7330223
B12930255

40

The work of this Chapter may be performed upon your Plain-Table, the operation differing nothing from what is here delivered, except only, that here you have the Angles by the Degrees on the Frame of your Table, and you must by the 50 other attain them by drawing of Lines upon the Table. 60

CHAP. X.
To take the Plot of a Wood, or over­grown Ground upon your Plain-Table, by going round about it, making Observations at every Angle, when through the thick­ness of the Wood you cannot see the Angles from any Station taken in the midst thereof, nor from any Angle to all the rest.

IT hath been already treated of plain and o­pen Grounds; it will also be necessary to speak of Wood-lands. Suppose A, B, C, D, E, F, G, were a Piece of Wood-ground to be measured: By reason of the thickness of the Wood, you can­not come to measure the inside thereof; therefore work with­out.

[figure]

1. Place your In­strument at the Angle A, and directing your Sights to the next Angle B, and by the Side thereof, draw a Line upon your Table, as the Line B, A: then measure by the Hedge-side, from the Angle A, to the Angle B, which suppose 66 Perches; then from the Scale take 66 Perches, which distance set upon your Table from A to B.

2. Remove your Instrument from A, and set up a Mark in the place thereof, and place your Instrument at your second Angle B; then lay the Index upon the Line A B, and turn the whole Instrument about until through the Sights you see the Mark which you set up at A; and then with your Screw fasten the Instrument there; then lay­ing the Index upon the Point B, direct your Sights to the third Angle at C, and draw the Line B C, upon your Table; then measuring the distance B C, 63 Perches, take that distance from your Scale, and set it on your Table, from B, to C.

3. Remove your Instrument from B, and set a Mark in the room thereof, placing your Instru­ment at C, laying the Index upon the Line C B, and turn the whole Instrument about until through the Sights you see the Mark at B, and then fasten your Instrument; then laying the Index on the Point C, direct your Sights to D, and [...] upon your Table the Line C D; then measure from C, to D, 54 Perches, and set that distance upon your Table from C, to D.

4. Remove your Instrument to D, [...] a Mark at C, where it last stood, and lay the In­dex upon the Line D C, turning the whole In­strument about till through the Sights you see [Page 68] the Mark at C, and there fasten the Instrument: Then lay the Index on the Point D, and direct your Sights to E, and draw the Line DE; then with your Chain, measure the distance DE, 76 Perches, and set that distance upon your Table from the Point D, to E.

5. Remove your Instrument to E, placing a Mark at D, where it last stood, and lay the In­dex upon the Line DE, turning the whole In­strument about until through the Sights you see 10 the Mark at D, and there fasten the Instrument; then lay the Index upon the Point E, and direct your Sights to F, and draw the Line E, F; then measure the distance E, F, 100 Pearches, and set that distance upon your Table from E, to F.

6. Remove your Instrument to F, placing a Mark at E, where it last stood, and lay the In­dex upon the Line E, F, turning the whole In­strument about, until through the Sights you see 20 the Mark at E, where fasten the Instrument: and laying the Index on the Point F, direct your Sights to G, and draw the Line F, G, then mea­sure the distance F, G, 69 Perches, and set off that distance upon your Table from the Point F, to G.

7. Remove your Instrument to G, placing the Mark at F, where it last stood, and lay the In­dex upon the Line F, G, turning the whole In­strument about, till through the Sights you see 30 the Mark at F; and then fasten the Instrument; then laying the Index upon the Point G, direct your Sights to A, your first Mark where you be­gan, and draw the Line G, A, which shall pass directly through the Point A, where you first be­gan, if you have truly wrought.

CHAP. XI.40
To Protract, or lay down any Ob­servations taken according to the Directions of the tenth Chap­ter.

YOu must consider which way your Plot will 50 extend, and that way draw the Line AB; then upon the Point A, protract an Angle equal to the Angle B, A, D, 71 Degrees, and draw the Line AD; then from your Scale take 32 Per­ches, 2 Primes, and set it upon your Paper from A, to D.

Then on the Point D, protract an Angle equal to the Angle C, D, A, 86 Degrees, and draw the 60 Line D, C, then from your Scale take 31 Per­ches, and set it upon your Paper from D, to C.

Then on the Point C, protract an Angle of 73 Degrees, 30 Minutes, equal to the Angle D, C, B▪ and draw the Line C, B, which will intersect the Line BA, in B, and so the Angle C, B, A, will contain 129 Degrees 30 Minutes, as aforesaid; and the Lines C, B, and B, A, being measured upon your Scale, will give you the exact Lengths as found them measured in the Field.

[figure]

CHAP. XII.
To take the distances of several places one from another; as also the distance of any of them from your place of standing, it being of excellent use to draw a Plot of the most considerable Marks, or Bounds of a Town, Mannor, &c.

MAke choise of such a Place from whence you may see all those Places whose dist­ances are required, and there place your Instru­ment exactly level; then move your Index a­bout till through the Sights you see your first Mark, observing what Degrees your Index cuts on the Frame of the Table, which Degrees note down in a Book; then your Index to your se­cond Mark, and there set down the Degrees cut as before, and set them down; then direct your Sights to your third Mark, which set down as aforesaid, and so if there be more, or less till you have gon over them all.

Then for your second Observation, chuse some other convenient Place, from whence you may see all the Marks, which Stationary dist­ance let be as large as your Ground with con­venience will permit, and so situate that the In­dex lying on the Diameter of your Table at your first Station, through the Sights thereof you may see your second Station, and likewise at the se­cond you may see your first, so that in both Stations the Diameter of the Table, may be in a right Line, at which second Station make Obser­vation, as aforesaid, by noting your Degrees cut, and setting them down in a Book by themselves with a distinction between your first and second Station, as also Figures to your several Marks, as 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, &c. at both Stations, so that you may not mistake when you come to Protract­ion.

Let A, B, C, be three several Marks in the Fields, or other observable Marks, as Churches, Houses, &c. and let it be required to find the distance of either of them from one another, as as also the distance of any of them from A, or B.

Then make choise of your first Station at A, where placing your Instrument, direct your Sights to your first Mark at C, and suppose the Index cuts 70 Degrees, 30 Minutes, which must [Page 69] be noted in a Book, as you see here following, with the Figure 1, before it signifying your first Mark, then direct your Sights to D, your second Mark, and let the Degrees cut be 100 Degrees, 15 Minutes, which must be likewise noted in your Book as aforesaid, with the Figure 2, before it; signifying your second Mark; then turn your Index about, till through the Sights you see the third Mark at E, the Index cutting 10 150 Degrees which note down in your Book, with the Figure 3, before it, signifying your third Mark. This Figure sheweth the whole.

[figure]

This done bring your Index to the 20 Diameter of your Table, that through your Sights you may see your second Station at B, and mea­sure the distance of your Station A, B, which let be 40 Yards.

Then bring your Instrument to B, and the In­dex lying on the Diameter thereof, move the Instrument about, till through the Sights you see your first Station at A, and there six your Instru­ment.

Then move the Index about till through the 30 Sights you see your first Mark at C, the Index cutting 36 Degrees, 30 Minutes, which note in your Book as aforesaid, with the Figure 1, be­fore, it signifying your first Station; Then direct your Sights to D, your second Mark, and Index cutting 58 Degrees; and lastly direct your Sights to E, the Index cutting 90 Degrees, 15 Minutes, which note in your Book with the Figure 3, be­fore it, for your third Mark, and then will they stand as thus.40

 Deg. Min. Deg. Min.
 1—70—30 1—36—30
1, Station2—100—152, Station2—58—0
 3—150—00 3—90—15

Your Stationary distance 40 Yards.

By the help of this Table of your Observations you may at any time protract the same on Pa­per,50 or otherwise, and then making a Scale of equal Parts, answerable to the Parts of your Stationary distance, you may with your Com­passes measure the Distance of any of these Marks one from another, or from either of your Stations.60

CHAP. XIII.
To know whether you have truly wrought, and whether your Plotwill close, or not, when you make Observation at every Angle of a Field, as in Chapter X.

COllect the quantity of all the Angles found at your several Observations into on Sum; the Multiply 180 Degrees by a Number less by two, than the Number of Angles in the Field, and if the Product of this Multiplication be e­qual to the Total Sum of all your Angles, then have you wrought right, otherwise not: For Ex­ample.

Take the work of the tenth Chapter, where the Angles found were as followeth, the Sum of them being 360 Degrees.

Now because the Field consisted but of four Sides, you must Multiply 180 Degrees by 2, (which is a Number less by 2 than the Number of Angles in the Field) and the Pro­duct will be 360, which exactly agreeth with the Sum of all the Angles in the Field, as found by Observation.

Deg.Min.
7100
8600
7330
12930
36000

CHAP. XIV.
How to find the Area, or Superficial content of any plain Figure, and to reduce irregular Figures into regular Forms, and to find the content thereof.

HAving shewed how to draw the Plot of a Field upon Paper, it will be convenient to shew how the content thereof may be attained, that is, how many Acres, Rods and Perches any Field so plotted, doth contain. For effecting of which, consider that the Original of the men­suration of all superficial Figures, such as Land, Board, Glass, or the like, do depend upon the exact measuring of certain regular Figures, as the Geometrical Square, the Long Square, the Triangle; the Circle, and the Trapezium: so that any Plot of Land to be measured, if it be not in the Form of one of these Figures it must (before it be measured) be reduced into some of these Forms. I shall first shew how to measure any of the said [Page 70] Figures severally by themselves, and then how to reduce any other Figure (how irregular soever it be) into some of these Forms, and then how to measure it by the same Rules; And first.

Of the Geometrical Square.

A Geometrical Square is a Figure, consisting of 4 equal Sides, and Angles, as is the Square 10 P, R, R, V, whose Sides PK, KV, VR, and RP, are all equal, viz. 6, be they either Inches, Feet, Perches, or any other measure whatsoever.

[figure]

20

Now to find the Superficial content thereof, Multiply any of the Sides in it self, and the Product of that Multiplication shall be the content of the Square. For Example, Suppose the Square P, K, R, V, to be a Piece of Land, and the Side thereof to contain 6 Perches, therefore Multiply 6 in it self (that, is 6 by 6) and the Product is 36, and so many Perches doth the Square Piece 30 of Land P, K, R, V, contain, as you may perceive by counting of the little Squares within the great one.

Of the large Square.

A Long Square is a Figure consisting of 4 Sides, as in the Figure A, B, C, D, the two opposite Sides whereof are equal, as the Sides A, B, and C, D; and likewise the two other opposites 40 AC, and BD, the two shorter Sides containing 3 Perches, and the longer Sides 15.

[figure]

To find the Superficial content of this long 50 Square, multiply one of the shorter Sides by one of the longer, and the Product is the Superficial content thereof. For Example, The longer Side of the Square contains 15 Perches, and the shorter 3; now if you multiply 15 by 3, the Product will be 45, which is the content of the Square in Perches.

Of the Triangle.60

ALthough there be several sorts of Triangles, yet in respect they are all measured by one and the same Rule, one Example therefore shall serve, which take for a general Rule.

In all right-lin'd Triangles whatsoever, half the length of the Base being multiplyed by the length of the Perpendicular, shall be equal to the Area, or content of the Triangle: Or half the length of the Perpendicular being multiplyed in the length of the whole Base, shall be the content of the Triangle. Also if you multiply the whole Perpendicular by the whole Base, half the Pro­duct shall be the content of the Triangle. For Exam­ple, Suppose you were to find the Area of the Triangle S, R, Q, First from the Angle R, let fall the Perpendicular R, E, and let the length thereof be 24 Perches; Now if you multiply 12, the half of the Perpendicular by 44, the length of the whole Base, the Product will be 528, and that is the Area, or content of the Triangle. Or if you multiply 24 which is the length of the Perpendicular, by 22 the length of half the Base, the Product will be 528. Also if you multiply 44 the length of the Base by 24, the whole length of the Perpendicular, the Product will be 1056, the half of which is 528 the Area, or content of the Triangle.

[figure]

Of the Trapezium.

A Trapezium is a Figure consisting of 4 un­equal Sides, and as many unequal Angles, as is in the Figure A, C, B, D.

To measure this Trapezium, first reduce it in­to 2 Triangles, by drawing the Diagonal Line A, R, by which means your Figure is reduced to 2 Tri­angles, viz. the Tri­angles A, C, B, and A, D, B; then if you let fall the Perpendi­culars from the Points D, and C, you may measure them by the last Example, as if they were 2 Triangles, the Sum whereof being added together will be the Area, or Content of the whole Trapezium.

[figure]

For Example, having drawn the Line A, B, and so reduced the Figure into 2 Triangles, and let fall the Perpendiculars from C, and D, (the Base A, B, being common to both Triangles) sup­pose the Perpendicular at C, were 20 Perches, the Perpendicular at D, 10, and the Base, AB, (serving for both Triangles) 42 Perches. If therefore according to your former Directions you multiply 42 the Base, by 10, half the Perpen­dicular, the Product will be 420 for the content of the Triangle A, C, B. In like manner if you Multiply 42 the Base by 5, half the other Perpen­dicular, the Product will be 210, for the content of the Triangle A, D, B. Then if you add the Contents of these two Triangles together, viz. 420 and 210, the Sum of them is 630, which is the content of the whole Trapezium A, C, B, D. But this Work may be performed with more bre­vity thus.

In respect the Base A, B, is common to both the Triangles, you need therefore do no more but add the two Perpendiculars together, the half whereof being Multiplyed by the whole Base, the Product shall be the content of the Tra­pezium. For Example, The two Perpendiculars [Page 71] 10, and 20, being added together make 30, the half of which is 15, which being Multiplyed by 42 (the whole length of the common Base) mak­eth 630, which is the Content of the whole Tra­pezium.

How to reduce Irregular Figures into Tra­peziums, and Triangles, and to cast up the Content thereof.10

LEt A, B, C, D, E, F, G, be the Figure of the Field drawn upon your Plain-Table, or protracted on Paper, according to any of the for­mer directions; In regard the Field is irregular, that is to say, it is neither a Circle, Triangle, Square, or Trapezium, it must therefore before it is measured, be reduced into some of these Forms; which to perform, do thus; Draw Lines to every other Angle, as the Lines, GB, BD, DE, and FB, 20 then will the whole Figure be reduced into five Triangles, as.

[figure]

1. The Triangle G, A, B.

2. The Triangle B, C, D.

3. The Triangle D, E, F. 30

4. The Triangle F, B, G.

5. The Triangle F, B, D.

These five Triangles must be all measured se­verally, according to your former Directions shew­ed to find the Content of a Triangle, and then the Contents of the five Triangles being added together into one Sum, shall be the Area or Content of the whole Field. As suppose the Triangle G, A, B, should contain 53 Perches, the Triangle B, C, D, 47 Perches, the Triangle D, E, F, 40 39 Perches, the Triangle G, B, F, 74, and the Triangle B, F, D, 68 Perches.

These five Numbers added together make 281 Perches, which is the Area or Content of the whole Field in Perches.

Here note that at any time when you reduce any Irregular Plot into Triangles, your Number of Trangles will be less by 2, than the Number of the Sides of your Plot; as in this the Plot consisted of 7 Sides, and you see it is reduced 50 into five Triangles.

Of the Circle.

THe Proportion of the Circumference of any Circle is to his Diameter, as 7 to 22. Now to find the Area, or Content of any Cir­cle, Multiply the Diameter thereof in it self, and Multiply that Sum by 11, which Product being divided 60 by 14, shall give you the Area of the Circle.

[figure]

For Example, In the Cir­cle. D, F, G, E, let the Di­ameter thereof D, E, be 28, which Multiplyed in it self, giveth 784, which being Multiplyed by 11, giveth 8624, and being divided by 14, the Quotient will be 616 which is the Area of the Circle.

The Circumference of a Circle being given to find the Diameter.

MUltiply the Circumference by 7, and di­vide the Product by 22, the Quotient shall be the length of the Diameter. For Example, Let the Circumference of the Circle D, E, F, G, be 88, which Multiplyed by 7, giveth 616, which being divided by 22, giveth 28, for the length of the Diameter D, E.

CHAP. XV.
Treats of certain ARITHME­TICAL, and GEOME­TRICAL PROPOSI­TIONS, for the Separation, and Division of Land.

Proposition I.
A right Line being given, to divide the same ac­cording to any Proportion assigned.

SUppose A, be a Line given, and let it be re­quired to divide the same into two parts, bearing Proportion the one to the other, as the Line B, doth to the Line C.

First draw the Line F, D, equal to the given Line A, then draw the Line E, D, to contain any Angle at pleasure, and from D, to H, place the Line C, and from H, to E, place the Line B; then draw the Line E, F, and lastly draw the Line H, G, Parallel to the Line E, F, which shall cut the Line F, D, in the Point G: so is the Line F, D, (which is equal to the given Line A,) divided in the Point G, in Proportion as the Line B, is to the Line C.

Proposition II.
To perform the same Arithmetically.

LEt the Line A, be 72, the Line B, 50; and the Line C, 40, according to which Pro­portion let it be required to divide the Line A: First say by the Rule of Proportion, if 90 (which is the Sum of the 2 Proportional Terms) give 72, the whole given Line, what shall 50, the grea­ter part give? Multiply and Divide and you [Page 72] shall have in the Quotient 40 for the greater part of the Line A, which being subtracted from 72, the whole Line, there remains 32 for the lesser part.

Proposition III.
To divide a Triangle into 2 parts, according to any Proportion assigned, by a Line drawn from any Angle thereof.10

LEt A, B, C, be a Triangle given, and let it be required to divide the same, by a Line drawn from the Angle A, into two parts the one bearing Proportion to the other, as the Line F, doth to the Line G.

By either of the two last Propositions, divide the Base of the Triangle B, C, in the Point D, in Proportion as the Line F, is to the Line G; then draw the Line A, D, which shall divide the Tri­angle 20 according to the given Proposition.

Proposition IV.
The Base of the Triangle being known, to perform the former Proposition by Arithmetick.

SUppose the Base B, C, to be 40, and let the Proportion into which the Triangle is to be divided be, as 2 to 3.

First, Add the 30 two proportional Terms together, 2, and 3, which make 5; then say by the Rule of Proportion, If 5 give 40, which is the whole Base, what shall 3 the greater Term give? Multiply, and Divide, and the Quotient will give 24, for the greater Segment of the Base D, C, which being deducted from the whole 40 Base 40, there remains 16 for the lesser Segment B, D.

[figure]

Proposition V.
To divide a Triangle given into two parts, accord­ing to any Proposition assigned, by a Line drawn from a Point limited in any of the Sides there­of.

LEt the Triangle given be A, B, C, and let 50 it be required from the Point E, to draw a Line that shall divide the Triangle into two Parts, bearing Propor­tion the one to the other, as the Line I doth to the Line K. First, from the limited Point E, draw a Line to the opposite Angle A, then di­vide the Base B, C, in Proportion as I, to C, 60 which Point of Division will be at D; then draw D, F, parallel to A, E. Lastly, from F, draw the Line F, E, which will divide the Triangle as I, to K.

[figure]

Proposition VI.
To Divide a Triangle, whose AREA is known, into two Parts, from a Point limited in any Side thereof, according to any number of Acres, Rods, or Perches.

LEt the Triangle be A, B, C, whose quantity is 5 Acres, 1 Rod; let the limited Point be E, in the Base; and let it be required from E, to divide the Triangle into two Parts between M, and N, to wit to M, 3 Acres, 3 Rods thereof, and to N, 1 Acre, and 2 Rods.

First, reduce the quantity of N, being the les­ser, into Perches, which makes 240; then con­sidering on which Side of the limited Point this Part is to be laid, as towards B, measure that Part of the Base from E, to B, 30 Perches, whereof take half, which is 15, and thereby divide 240, the part of N, and the Quotient will be 16, the length of the Perpendicular F, H, at which parallel distance from the Base B, C, cut the Side A, B, in F, from whence draw the Line F, E, which shall include the Triangle F, B, E, containing 1 Acre, 2 Rods, and the Trapezium A, F, E, C, contains the residue, viz. 3 Acres and 3 Rods.

CHAP. XVI.
How to lay out several quantities in Common Fields unto several Tenants.

ACcording to the aforesaid Directions, Plot out the whole Field, Common, or Se­veral, with its particular Bounds, as you observe them in the Survey of the whole Mannor; or if you only Survey that Particular, take no­tice of all the Bounds thereof; then provide a particular Book, or Paper Ruled into 10 Colums, in the 1 towards the left Hand write the Ten­ants Name, and the Tenour by which he holds the same Land; the next three Colums are to con­tain the Breadth of every mans Parcels of Land, noted over the Head of every Colum with these 3 Characters 0, 1, 2, answering to the several Divisions of your Chain, o, signifying Vnites, 1 Prime, and 2 Seconds. In the next 3 Colums is exprest the length of every Tenants Parcel, having the like Characters of 0, 1, 2, over the Head of each Colum as that of the Breadth; and in the three last Colums is to be exprest the quantity of each Tenants Parcel.

In laying out of several Parcels in this kind, you will use only your Chain; then when you begin your Work, first write the Name of the Field, and in the first Colum write the Ten­ants Name, and the Tenour by which he holds the same, from what place you begin to Mea­sure, and upon what Point of the Compass you [Page 73] pass from thence, and observing this Direction in all the rest you may, if need require, Bound e­very Parcel.

This being noted in your Book, observe the Species or Shape of the Furlong, whether it be all of one Length, or not; if all of one Length then take the Length thereof but once for all; but if different Lengths, then take the Length thereof at every second, or third Breadth, and express the same in your Book under the Title of 10 Lengths. As for the expressing the several Breadths only cross over the whole Furlong, taking every mans Breadth by the middle there­of, entring the same as you pass along. But in case there be a considerable difference at either end, then take the Breadth at either end, adding them together into one Sum; then take the half of that Sum for your mean, or true Breadth, and enter it in your Book or Paper under the Title of Breath. 20

In this manner you may proceed from one Furlong to another, until you have gone through the whole Field; which when you have done, and noted down the several Lengths and Breadths in your Book, Multiply the Length and Breadth of every Parcel together, and so shall you have the quantity of every Parcel by it self, which quantity must be noted down in the three last Colums of your Book, as in the following Ex­ample appears.30

GRAVEL-PIT FIELD.
TenantsBreadthLengthQuantity
Names012012arp
John Price from the Lane East­ward, free68216200230
Thomas Jones for two Lives13216200021
William Smith by Copy5631542027
Robert West, at Will8411423030

40

CHAP. XVII.
To take the Plot of a Mannor,50 or of divers Severals, whether Wood-lands, or otherwise.

ALthough Practice in the performance hereof is better than many Words; and that the Rules already delivered are sufficient to perform the Work, yet I shall render it as plain as possi­ble.60 Suppose therefore that the following Figure were part of a Mannor, as the Mannor of Cain­sham, you must first write the Title thereof in your Field-Book, thus.

Mannor of Cainsham in Com: sur: pro Reg. incip 2 Mar. 1685.

THen having your Field-Book in a readiness, Ruled and fitted as aforeshewed, write over every Close as you Survey, the Tenants Name, and the Tenure by which he holds the same, as in the following Example; for the first Close, Richard Price, Birds Close Pasture Free; then beginning to Survey this Parcel, first place your Instrument at A, and direct your Sights to B, obser­ving the Degrees there cut, which let be 195, which must be noted in the first Colum of your Field-Book; then with your Chain measure the di [...] ­ance from A, to B, and you shall find it to con­tain 30 Perches, 4 Primes, which place in the third and fourth Colums.

2. Remove your Instrument to B, and direct your Sights to C, the Index cuting 205 Degrees, 30 Minutes, which note in the first and second Colums of your Field-Book; then measure the distance B, C, 26 Perches, 7 Primes, which ob­serve in the third and fourth Colums; Then in regard you are to leave the Hedge, or Border A, B, C, adjoyning to Smiths Close, (which be­longs to another Mannor, and therefore naming is sufficient for your remembrance) draw a Line quite cross your Field-Book, and in the last Co­lum thereof, which is very broad, write the name of the Bounder which you went against, as in the Ex­ample. These two Observations being made by the Hedge, or Bounder of Smiths Close, therefore a­gainst these Observations write Smiths Close; and being you are now to leave that Bounder, therefore draw a Line quite through your Field-Book, which denotes that you leave the Bounder of Smiths Close.

3. Place your Instrument at C, and direct your Sights to D, the Degrees cut being 120, and 45 Minutes, and the distance C, D, being 27 Perches, 8 Primes; these 120 Degrees, 45 Minutes, must be noted in the first and second Colums of your Field-Book, and the 27 Perches, 8 Primes in the third and fourth Colums. Now because at these three Observations you went against the Hedge, or Bounder of Grays-Field, you must against them in the broad Colum of your Field-Book set down Grays Field; and because at your next Observation you are to leave that Bounder, there­fore draw a Line Cross your Book, shewing that you have done with that Bounder.

4. Place your Instrument at D, and direct your Sights to E, the Index cutting 86 Degrees, 15 Mi­nutes, and the dist­ance D, E, being 10 Perches, 4 Primes, the De­grees and Minutes must be noted in the first and [Page 74] second Colums of your Field Book, and the 10 Perches, 4 Primes, in the third and fourth.

[figure]

5. Remove your Instrument to E, and direct your Sight to F, the Index cutting 300 Degrees, and the distance E, F, being 12 Perches, 3 Primes, the Degrees and Minutes set down in the second and fifth Colums of your Field-Book, and the 12 Perches, 3 Primes in the third and fourth Co­lums.

6. Place your Instrument at F, and direct your 10 Sights to G, the Index cuting 55 Degrees, 30 Minutes, and the distance F, G, being 16 Perches, 4 Primes; the 55 Degrees, 30 Minutes must be noted in the first and second Colums of your Field-Bood, and the 16 Perches, 4 Primes in the third and fourth.

Now because in these three last Observations you went against the Hedge or Bounder of Barns-wood, and that you are now to leave it, you must against these three Observations, in the broad 20 Colum of your Book, write Barnes-wood, and being now to leave that Bounder, draw a single Line cross your Book.

7. Place your Instrument at G, and direct your Sight to H, the Index cutting 324 Degrees, 15 Minutes, and the distance G, H, being 36 Per­ches, 2 Primes, the Degrees and Minutes must be noted, in the first and second Colums, and the Perches, and Primes in third and fourth.

8. Remove your Instrument to H, and direct 30 your Sights to A, where you began the Index, cutting 107 Degrees, 15 Minutes, and the dist­ance H, A, being 34 Perches, 6 Primes. The De­grees and Minutes must also be noted in the first, and second Colums, and the Perches, and Primes in the third and fourth. Now because in these two last Observations you went by the River­side, therefore against them write the River; and because you have now finished your first Close, draw a double Line for a remembrance.40

Then consider which Close is next fitting to be Surveyed, which let be Grays Field, and with­all at what Angle it is best to begin, which let be at C, and here (for your help when you come to protraction) express in the Title of this second Close at what Angle you begin, (unless you had begun where you ended the last): Wherefore seeing you begin at C, look in your Book on the Work of your last Close, at what place the Line B, C, ended, as at the end of 205 Degrees, 30 50 Minutes, and 26 Perches, 7 Primes, and against that Number make this * or any other Mark, on the right Side of your down-right Lines, and then write your Title for your second Close thus:

Thomas Rich, Grays Field, Free, begin at *

BY this means you shall readily know when 60 you come to protraction, where to begin with this Close, and in the Margin place (2) for the Number of your second Close, and then pro­ceed in your Work, as before taught for your last Close, until you come to K; where observ­ing that you want but one Line, as K, D, to in­close this second Close, and also that this Angle R, is the [...]ittest place to begin your third Close at, placing there your Instrument, and directing your Sights to D, where you are to inclose, and then write in the Margin of your Book (against the De­gree here taken) draw a short Line, as thus— 21, 30, 40, 2, which serves to put you in mind when you come to Protraction, that you are to begin your third Field, where now you are at the Angle K, where you took your last Sight; and then having inclosed this second Close, proceed to the third from K, in the Title whereof you need not make mention at what place you begin, for the former reason, but working in that and all the rest, as before shewed, and if there were never so many Inclosures you may without con­fusion easily distinguish the Work of the one from the other, and be able to draw a Plot there­of at any time, remembring always that these Numbers in the Margin of your Book, are to be placed severally in your Plot in these Closes they represent; And by this means you are eased of much trouble that you must by the other ways be put to in protracting upon the Table it self: for then in every Plot you must write the Name of the Tenant, or the Close, or the Tenure or qua­lity thereof, which breeds confusion, and occa­sioneth much trouble in casting up the Con­tents.

These Instructions being sufficient for the appli­cation and use of the Field-Book, it were con­venient to practice the same, and compare his Book with the Plot, and protracting the same according to the Directions hereafter given.

An Example of a Leaf of the Field-Book, as it ought to be Ruled, and taken ac­cording to the preceeding Example.
 Ric:Price,Birdsclose,Pasture,Free▪
 Deg.Min.Perch.Prin. 
(1)19100304Smiths Close.
 20530267*
 12045278Grays Field.
 8615104 
 30000123Barns Wood.
 5530164 
 32415362The River.
 10615346 
 Tho:Rich,Grays Field,free from*
(2)16000123 
 18045162The Common
 9515147 
(3)2130402Barns Wood.

CHAP. XVIII.
To protract, or lay down Mounta­nous, and uneven Grounds, with the best way to find the Area, or Content of such Irregulars.10

LEt A, B, C, D, E, F, G, be a Mountanous Piece of Ground to be measured; First, place your Instrument at A, and direct your Sights to B; then measure the Line A, B, draw the same by the Side of the Ruler upon the Ta­ble; then in regard that from B, to C, there is an Ascent, find the Horizontal Line thereof, and draw it upon your Table, reckoning thereon the length of the Hypothenusal Line; then measure 20 round the Field according to former Directions, and having the Figure thereof upon your Table, reduce it into Trapeziums, as A, B, E, G, and B, C, D, E, and the Triangle G, E, F; then from the Angles A, C, E, F, fall the Perpendiculars.

Now by reason there are many Hills and Val­leys all over the Field, you must measure with your Chain in the Field over Hill and Dale from B, to D, and to the Line B, D, set the number of Perches as you find them by measuring, which 30 will be much longer than the streight Line B, D. measured on the Scale; then by the help of your Instrument find the Point H, in the Line B, D, and measure with your Chain from C, to H, over Hill 40 and Dale, as afore­said, and to the Perpendicular C, H, set the num­ber, as you find it by the Chain; then likewise find the Perpendicular I, E, and likewise mea­sure that with your Chain; all which Lines in respect of the Hills and Valleys will be found much longer than if measured by your Scale: Then by the Measured Lines BD, CH, and IE, cast up the contents of the Trapezium B, C, D, E, and in this manner cast up the content of the 50 Trapezium A, B, E, G, and the Triangle G, E, F; and this is the exactest way to be prescribed from the mensuration of uneven Grounds, which be­ing carefully peformed, will not much vary of the true Content. And to distinguish these from other Grounds, Shadow them off in your Plot with Hills and Valleys, lest any should mea­sure your Plot by your Scale, and find your work to differ.60

[figure]

CHAP. XIX.
Directions to beautify your Plot when Protracted.

YOUR Plot being protracted as intended, and written the content of each Close about the midst of the same, about the Bounds of every Field, with a fine Pensil and Colours, neatly wash over the same which several proper Colours, and use those Colours that are transparent, as Copper-Green, and Sap-Green, for Greens; Yellow Berys, Combogeum, and Saffron for Yellows; Littmus for Blue; Couchanea, Lake, Virmillion and Red-Lead for Reds; and for mixture of other Colours as your fancy pleaseth for the adornment thereof. Also in your Wood-land Grounds draw small Trees, and shadow your Hills, and uneven Grounds, and for Rivers and High ways distinguish them by proper Colours. It were also necessary in some convenient corner to draw the Mariners Compass according to the Situation of the Ground, with the Flowerdelis pointing North, and from each Point you may draw Lines thwart the Plot, the better to know the Point. Also draw your Scale, and if there is a convenient place it were conve­nient to affix the Coat of Arms of the owner thereof.

CHAP. XX.
Of the use of Gunters four Pole-Chain.

IN this Chapter for variety's sake, and to ren­der the Treatise of Surveying the more com­pleat, it will be necessary to let you know how Ground is to be measured with Gunters Chain.

This Chain containing 4 Poles, is divided in­to 100 Links, each Link consisting of 7 Inches 91/100 Parts of an Inch in Length, which make 66 Feet to the whole Chain, and 16 ½ Feet for each Pole.

The Form of the Field-Book when you measure with this Chain, is as you see, consisting of three Co­lums, the first for the De­grees of the Angles of the Field, and the other 2 for Chains and Links.

Deg.Chains.Links.
601000
601000
601000

After having protracted the Field, according to the Field-Book, and reduced the Figure into Triangles, let fall Perpendiculars, or the Base of each Triangle, and measuring them with the same Scale into which you protracted the Plat, Multi­ply the half of the Perpendiculars in their whole Bafes, or the half of the Base into the whole Per­pendicular, adding all the Sums of the Triangles [Page 76] together; then if from the total Product you cut off by a Dash, or Comma the 5 last Figures towards the right Hand▪ (if there be so many) the Figures on the left Hand of the Comma are Acres, and those to the right Hand of the Com­ma 500000 Parts of an Acre. If you Multiply the 5 Figures cut off by 4, the Number of Rods in an Acre, and cut off 5 Figures to the right Hand, before the Comma, are Rods, and the 5 cut off are 10000 Parts of a Rod. If you Multiply 10 these last 5 by 40, the Number of Poles in a Rod working as before you have Perches or Poles before the Comma, and the remainder Links, as accor­ding to the Field-Book, the Field being Triangular, the Base of the Triangle is 10 Chains, 00 Links, the Per­pendicular let fall from one of the Angles on the Base; 20 as suppose 6 Chains, 7 Links, then by Multiplying the whole Base 10 Chains 00 Links by the half Perpendicular 3 Chains 35 Links, the Product is 335000, the Content of the Triangle; by cutting off 5 Figures to the right Hand you have 3 Acres before the Comma. By Multiplying the remain­der by 4, and Cutting off the Product 5 Figurs, there is 1 Rod, and by Multiplying the Product by 4, and cutting off 5 Figures, there is 16 30 Pole.

Chain.Links.
1000
335
3 (35000
 4
1 (40000
 40
16 (00000 

If the Figure or Plot of the Field did consist of more Triangles, it is but adding all their Sums together and working as before.

STERIOMETRY.40

CHAP. XXI.
Giving directions how the Content of most Regular Figures may be attained; also how to find the Crassitude, or solid Content of any 50 Timber, either standing, rough, or squared.

PROP I.
To Measure the Solidity of a Cube.

A Cube is a Figure comprehended under 6 e­qual 60 Sides, and each being a Geometrical Square. Now for the finding the Solidity thereof do thus; Measure one of the Sides, which Mul­tiply in it self, which being again Multiplyed by by the Side, will give Solid Content thereof. For Example, Let the Figures A, B, C, D, be a Cube, whose Side A, B, suppose 6 Foot, this 6 be­ing Multiplyed in it self produceth 36, which Mul­tiply by 6, and the Pro­duct will be 226, and so many Solid Feet of Tim­ber, or Stone are contained within the Cube A, B, C, D.

[figure]

PROP II.
To measure the Solidity of a long Cube.

LEt M, N, O, P, Q, be the Figure of a long Cube, or oblong, the Side whereof O, P, is 4 Foot, which being Multipli­ed in it self, gives 16 Foot for the Square M, N, O, P; this 16 be­ing Multiplied by 8, the length of the Side O, Q, gives 128, and so many solid Feet of Stone or Timber are contained in the whole Figure M, N, O, P, Q.

[figure]

PROP III.
To Measure the Solidity of a Cilinder, or Pillar.

LEt the Cilinder given be A, B, C, the Crassitude, or solid Content whereof is requi­red. Let the Diameter of the Circle at the end A, B, be 7 Foot; then as the superficial Content thereof (by Chapter 15) 38 ½ Foot.

[figure]

This Number being Multipl­ed by 12, the Length of the Cilinder, giveth 462 for the Cras­situde of the whole Cilinder.

PROP IV.
To Measure the Content of a Cone.

LEt the Cone given be A, B, C, the Heighth whereof A, C, is 12 Foot, and the Diame­ter of the Base is 10, by which the superficial Content of the Circle will be found to be 78 4/ [...], which Multiplied by 4, the third Part of the Perpendicular giveth 314 2/7 for the Content re­quired.

[figure]

But by reason it is not easy to measure the Alti­tude of a Cone, without the true knowledge of the Perpendicular, it will be necessary to shew how that may be found; First take half the Diameter C, B, which [Page 77] is 5, and Multiply it in it self makes 25, which Number keep; then measure the Side C, A, 13, which Multiply in it self, makes 169, from which take the Square of half the Base, which is 25, (your Number being found) and there remains 144, the Square Root whereof is 12, and that is the Length of the Perpendicular.

PROP V.
To find the Content of a Sphere.10

CVbe the Diameter, which Multiply by 11, and Divide by 21, gives the Solidi­ty.

[figure]

In this Figure, let D, E, the Diameter contain 14 Inches; First Multiply 14 in it self, which makes 196, which being again Multi­plyed 20 by 14, gives 2744; this Number Multiply­ed by 11, makes 30184, and divided by 21, is 1437 ⅔ the Content of the Sphere.

PROP VI.
How to measure a Piece of Taper-grown Timber.

A Piece of Taper-grown Timber, is thus measured according to the usual way.30 Add both the ends together, and take the half of them, and Square it; then Multiply that Square by the length, and you will have the Content: For Example, Decimally, Let A, B, C, D, be a Piece of Timber, and let the end A, B, contain 2 Foot, and the part C, D, 1 ½ which added together makes 3 Foot 5 Primes, the half whereof is 1 | 75 Seconds, which Multi­plied in it self gives 3 | 0625 Fourths, which a­gain Multiplyed by the Length 27, gives 82 40 | 6875 Fourths, that is 82 Foot, and 6875/10000 Parts of a Foot, for the Content of the whole Piece.

PROP VII.
Another way to measure a Taper-grown Piece of Timber more exactly,

EVery Piece of Taper-grown Timber, the Sides 50 thereof being extended, would be a Pira­mid, as this Piece A, B, C, D; if the Sides A, C, and B, D, were extended till they meet at E, they would include the Piramis A, E, B. Now to measure the Segment A, B, C, D, First find the Length of the whole Piramis, E, F, which is thus done. Subtract 1 | 5 Primes, the Length C, D, from the Base, gives 5 Primes for the difference; then say by the Rule of Proportion. 60

As the Difference 5 Primes, is to the Base 2 Foot, so is the Length 27 to the whole Length F, E, 108 Foot, out of which Subtract the Length of the Piece 27 Foot, and there re­mains 81, for the height of the lesser Piramis C, D. Secondly the Base A, B, Squared, makes 4 Foot, which Multiplyed by 2 third Parts of 108, the Length of the whole Piramis, which is 36, gives 144 Foot, the Content of the whole Piramis. Last­ly, find the Content of the lesser Piramis C, E, D, by Multiplying 1 | 5 Primes; the Base C, D, in it self, and it makes 2 | 25 Seconds, which Multiplied by one third part of 81, the Heighth of the lesser Piramis 27, which makes 60 | 75 Seconds, that is 60 ¼ Foot of the Content of the lesser Piramis, which be­ing deducted out of the whole Piramis, the remain­der will be 83 | 25 Seconds, the true Content of the Piece A, B, C, D,

[figure]

PROP VIII.
To measure any Timber-Tree as it is standing.

WIth a Cord or Ring girt the Tree about the middle thereof; then measure the Length, which is equal to the Circumference of a Circle, described upon the mean Diameter of the Tree, by help of which Circumference you must by the 2 last Rules of the Fifteenth Chapter find the Diameter, and Area thereof; Then measure the Length of the Tree, which being Multiplied by the Content of the Circle, gives the Content of the whole Tree. For Example; Let A, B, be a standing Tree to be measured; then first girt the same about the middle there­of at C, then measure the Length of the String, which let be 7 Foot, 4 Inches, that is 88 Inches, which being Multiplied by 7, gives 616, which divided by 22 gives 28 for the Length of the Diameter. Having attained the Diameter. of the Circle, find the Area thereof thus; Multiply the Diameter 28 in it self, which makes 784, this again, Multi­plyed by 11, produceth 8624, which divide by 14, and the Quotient will be 616, the Content of the supposed Circle, which being Multiplied by 10 Foot (which is 120 In­ches) the Heighth of the Tree A, B, the Product will be 73920, and so many Square Inches are in the Tree; which being divided by 1728, the Num­ber of Inches in a Foot of Square Timber, the Quo­tient gives 42 21/27, and so many Foot is in the whole Tree.

[figure]

CHAP. XXII.

GAGING.

ALL the difference between Gaging, and Mea­suring other Solids, is only in this, that the [Page 76] [...] [Page 77] [...] [Page 78] Solids are Measured by Feet and Inches, the Vessels by Gallons, Quarts, &c.

In this Art are two things to be obser­ved; First, that those Vessels, being for the most part of Irregular Forms how to reduce them to Regular Propotion; Secondly, to find the true quantity of the Gallons in Cubick Inches, or parts of a Foot: For the first of these, the best way is to measure the Diameter of the Cask, both at the Bung and Head; and by their Diameters find 10 out the Area of their Circles; then take 2 Thirds of the Area at the Bung, and 1 Third at the Head, which added together, will be the mean Area of the Vessel. And if you Multi­ply this mean Area by the Length of the Vessel, it will shew how many Solid Inches the Vessel contains; which if you divide by the Number of Solid Inches in one Gallon, the Quotient will shew how many Gallons the Caskholds.

For Example, Sup­pose 20 the Wine Cask A, having the Diameter at the Head 18 Inches, and the Diameter at the Bung 32 Inches, and the Length 40 Inches, what is the Content?

[figure]

⅓ Of the Area at the Head is—84, 823 ⅔ of the Area at the Bung are—536, 166 The Sum of these two—620, 909 30 being Multiplyed by the Length—40 959 makes Solid Inches—24839, 560 which being divided by the Solid Inches in one Gallon of Wine, which are 231 Inches, yields for the Content 107 Gallons, 530 Parts, that is, some­what above ½ a Gallon.

But there is a difficulty to resolve, that is, How many solid Inches there are in a Gallon. 40

As for the Wine Gallon it is generally conclud­ed to contain 231 Cubick Inches; but some say it is some thing less; but this difference is not so much as others make it in the Ale-Gallon, for al­though most Gagers, and the Coopers make the Ale-Gallon [...] the Wine-Gallon 4 to 5, so that the Wine-Gallon being 231 Inches, the Ale-Gallon is 288 ¼ Inches; yet since the Excise, it is account­ed by them but 282 Cubick-Inches.

According to these Rules and Observations,50 this ensuing Table is calculated, shewing the ⅓ of the Area at the Head, and ⅔ of the Area at the Bung, of any Cask ready cast up in Gallons, and 1000 Parts for Wine measure; so that measuring the Diameter of any Cask at the Head, and Bung, and adding the Numbers together, and Multiply­ing their Sum by the length of the Cask, you shall find the Content thereof in Wine-Gallons. For Ex­ample, Suppose the Diameter at the Head to be 18 Inches,—0, 367 60 at the Bung to be 32 Inches,—2, 321 the Sum of these two,—2, 688 Multiplied by the length 40 Inches,—40 make very near as before,—107, 502 that is, 107 Gallons, and 502 Parts of a Gallon, which is a little above one half of a Gallon.

A Table for Gaging of Wine Cask.
 Head.Bung. Head.Bung.
 G PartsG Parts G PartsG Parts
10 0010 002311 0892 178
20 0040 009321 1602 321
30 0100 020331 2342 468
40 0180 036341 3102 620
50 0280 056351 3882 776
60 0450 081361 4692 938
70 0560 111371 5513 102
80 0720 114381 6363 272
90 0920 183391 7243 448
100 1130 226401 8133 625
110 1370 274411 9043 809
120 1630 326422 0004 000
130 1920 383432 0964 191
140 2210 444442 1944 388
150 2550 510452 2954 588
160 2900 580462 3984 796
170 3180 657472 5045 007
180 3670 734482 6115 222
190 4090 818492 7215 442
200 4530 906502 8335 665
210 5001 000512 9485 895
220 5481 097523 0656 129
230 6001 199533 1846 609
240 6531 305543 3056 865
250 7081 416553 4287 108
260 7661 532563 5547 364
270 8261 692573 6827 625
280 8881 777583 8137 890
290 9531 906593 9458 100
300 0202 040604 080 

To Gage a Cask that is not full

A Table for Gaging Wine-Cask that are not full
GPartsGPartsGPartsGPartsGParts
0000132630264338395913527672
½295 2707 4400 5976 7758
1470142775274462406040537829
 620 2847 4542 6094 7909
2720152918284585416158547990
 830 2986 4646 6223 8072
3935163056294706426288558154
 1038 3123 4766 6353 8236
41138173189304826436418568319
 1235 3255 4885 6483 8404
51339183321314943446548578491
 1420 3387 5000 6613 8580
61502193452325057456679588661
 1596 3517 5115 6745 8765
71681203582335174466811598862
 1764 3647 5234 6877 8962
81846213712345294476944609065
 1918 3777 5354 7012 9170
92010223842355415487082619280
 2091 3906 5476 7153 9398
102171233960365535497225629530
 2242 4024 5600 7297 9705
1123282440873756625073706310000
 2405 4150 5724 7444  
122481254213385787517519
 2556 4276 5850 7595  

The use of this Table is as followeth.

FIrst measure the Diameter of the Cask at the Head and Bung, and thereby you will find the Content of the whole Cask; Then measure how many Inches deep the Liquor in the Cask is, and then work by the Rule of Proportion; As for Example.

Let the Cask be as before, 32 Inches at the 10 Bung, and the Liquor 24 Inches deep.

  • As the Diameter at the Bung in Inches 32
  • To the depth of the Liquor in Inches 24
  • So the Radius of the Table 10000
  • To the part Proportional 7500

Find this Number 7500 in the Table, and it an­swers very near to 50 ¼ Gallons.

Then work again thus, omitting the smaller Fractions, which are of little concernment.20

 Gal.Part.
As the Gallons of the Radius6300
to the Proportional Gallons found5075
So the content of the whole Cask10750
to the Content of the Liquor being 
24 Inches deep8661

That is somewhat above 86 ½ Gallons.

Note that one Foot Square is near ½ a Gallon; for there is 144 Inches in a Foot, which doubled makes 288, which should be the Content of the Ale Gallon, although here it is alittle lessened un­to 282 Inches. 30

To Gage a Ship, and cast up how many Tuns her Burthen is.

MEasure the Length of her Keel, the Breadth at the Mid-ship-Beam, and the Depth of the Hold; Multiply these three one by the o­ther, and divide the Product thereof by 100, and so you shall find how many Tuns her Bur­den 40 is; For Example.

Suppose a Ship having the Length of her Keel 50 Foot, and the Breadth at the Mid-ship Beam 20, and the Depth in the Hold 10 Foot; how many Tuns will the Ship carry?

Multiply 50 by 20, which makes 1000; and that Multiplyed by 10, makes 10000, which di­vided by 100, cutting off the two last Figures, shews the Ships Burden to be 100 Tuns.

But this reckoning is only for the Kings Ships; As for Merchants Ships, who give no allowance for Ordinance, M [...]sts, Sails, Cables, and Anchors, which are all a Burden▪ but no Tunnage, you must divide your Product by 95; so the foresaid Ship will be found to be 105 Tuns, 25/95 Parts.

But this way of reckoning the Tunnage of Ships, though it may come near in some Ships, yet it may miss much in others; for all Ships are not built of the same Fashion; therefore it is the best and surest way to cast up the Content of the Ship more exactly according to the Rules of Art, with respect had to the Mold, and shape of the Ship, and so to find out how many Cubick Feet the Ship doth contain; and every Cubick Foot of Water according to some, weighs 55 li. Averdupoiz; but a Cubick Foot of Water according to some Artists, weigheth 62 li. 588 parts. Now every Tun being 20 hundred Weight, and every Hundred 112 li. which makes 2240 li. divide this by 62 li. 588 parts, it makes 35 Foot, 79 parts; so that about 36 Cubick Feet makes a Tun weight.

But observe that if you measure thus a Ship within, you shall find the Content or Burden the Ship will hold, or take in. If you mea­sure the Ship on the out-side to her Light-mark, as she swims being unladen, you shall have the Weight or Content of the empty Ship; and if you measure from the Light-mark to her full Draught of Water, being laden, that will be the true Burden or Tunnage of the Ship.

Knowing the Measures of a Ship of one Burden, to make another Ship of the same Mold, which shall be double, or treble, or in any Proportion, more or less, to the said Ship.

Multiply the Measurs of the Length, Breadth, and Depth of the Ship Cubically, and then double, or treble the Cube, and extract the Cube-Root thereof. [Page 78] [...] [Page 79] [...]

COSMOGRAPHY, OR ASTRONOMY.

COSMOGRAPHY is an Art that de­scribeth the whole Universe. It hath two parts, General, or Special.

General teacheth the universal History of the World, which is a great Spherical Body com­posed of Heaven, and the Elements; that is to say, the Theatre of the Universe, which is divi­ded into two Parts or Regions, to wit, Superiour and Constant, as the Heavens; or Inferiour, In­constant and Elementary, as the Earth. 10

Heaven is the highest Region of the transpa­rent World, exquisite, and not subject to change, which for its perfection and perpetual Motion, as well as for those Luminary Ornaments which God has placed in it, may be said to consist of Divine Matter, which moves about all the Ele­mentary Region.

The Heavens, which contain several Globes one within another, are divided into two, viz. Empyreal and Aethereal. 20

The Empyreal Heaven (which is called the Heaven of Heavens, or the Third Heaven) sur­rounds all the other, and is so called from its great brightness and splendor; and because it is purer than all the rest, it is thought to be the Throne of God, and the habitation of the blessed Spirits.

The Aethereal Heaven is that where the Stars, and other the Coelestial Luminaries are placed, which is extended like a Pavillion, and is double; 30 one is called the Primum Mobile; the other the Chrystalline, as the Region of the fixed Stars, the Firmament, or of the Planets, of which there are seven Globes or Spheres.

The Primum Mobile is the last Coelestial Globe of the Concentrick Vniverse, which has only one daily Motion of Twenty four hours from the East to the West, between the two Poles of the World, carrying with it self all the other Infe­riour Heavens, Spheres, and Coelestial Bodies. 40

The Chrystalline Heaven is another Coelestial Globe, which is carried on the Ecliptick Line, and Poles of the Zodiack by its own proper Motion from West to East, contrary to the Mo­tion of the Primum Mobile.

The Firmament is another Coelestial Globe, a­dorned and studded with an infinite number of fix'd Stars, which sometimes appears slow, some­times faster; sometimes advanced, and sometimes depressed; sometimes tending to the North, and sometimes to the South; retaining to it self one proper Motion called Motus trepidationis, which is so slow, that it makes but three Minutes, and five Seconds, in the space of a Year, and its whole Revolution in seven hundred Years.

Under this Firmament or Heaven of fixed Stars are other Globes or Spheres, every one of which carries its proper Planet; as Saturn, which is nearest the Firmament goes round once in thirty Years, Jupiter in twelve, Mars in three, the Sun (or rather the Earth) Venus and Mercury in one, and the Moon in a Month.

The Inferiour or inconstant Region of the World is called Elementary, because the four Ele­ments are contained in it, of which there are also three sorts, viz. the highest or Fiery Region, the middlemost being the Region of Air, and the two lowest, that of the Water and the Earth.

The Figure of the whole Universe is repre­sented in a Material Sphere, which is a Mathe­matical Instrument, round and solid, consisting of Circles accommodated and distinguished in such manner, that it represents to the Eye the rest; also the Motions of the Circles and Orbs supposed to be in the first Mobile, and the Natural Sphere; the Figures represent the same.

There are two sorts of Spheres, viz. strait and oblique; the Strait shews the two Poles beneath the Horizon, and Aequator over head; but the Oblique elevates one Pole above the Horizon, and depresses the other.

The Artificial, or Material Sphere, which re­presents the form and likeness of the Imaginary World; and the Coelestial Motions are fitted to these parts, as well to the Center, as to the Dia­meter, Poles and Circles.

The Center is a Point in the midst of the Sphere, supplying the place of the Earth, whose dimensions contain the number of Degrees and Affections of the Zones, no less than the Circum­ference it self.

The Diameter is a strait Line that passes through the Center, and touching both sides of the Circumference divides the Sphere into two equal Parts, about which the Sphere turns.

The General Opinion is, that the Imperial Heaven doth not move, but all the rest do.

The Primum Mobile hath but one Motion, which is from East to West, but so swift and violent, that it makes it Revolution (although so [Page]

To his Excellency Roger Pa [...]mer. Earle of Castlemain & Baron of Limberick in Ireland, Embassadour Extraordinary from his Ma [...] ▪ King Iames y. [...] d. to his Holy­ness Pope Innocent y ▪ uth. Anno Do [...] [...]86.

This Plat [...] is [...].

[Page] [Page 81] vastly great) in 24 Hours; turning also in the same time and manner, the other Heavens under it; although contrary to their own proper Motion, which is from West to East, which is the reason they can't make their own proper Revo­lution, but in a much longer time; and so much the longer, the nearer they are unto it. This Motion of the Primum Mobile is called Diurnal, as finishing its Revolution in 24 Hours. 10

The Primum Mobile is without Stars, being a Heaven of a pure and clear substance, like unto the Imperial.

The Heaven next the Primum Mobile is also without Stars, and of the same Substance; but it differs from it in that this hath two Motions, and the other but one; that is, one upon the Poles of the World, according to the Diurnal Motion, and the other from West to East upon its own Poles, but turns so slowly about, that according to Copernicus, and some other Astrono­mers, 20 it finisheth its Revolution but once in 2500 Years.

The general Opinion of the Astronomers, con­cerning the thickness and distance of the Hea­vens, how the Stars appear through them, and the Magnitude of the Planets and fixed Stars, is as followeth. The Heaven of the Moon contains in thickness 105222 Miles; that of Mercury 253372 Miles; that of Venus 3274494; that of Mars 2630800; that of Jupiter 1899654; 30 and that of Saturn 19604454 Miles: Yet al­though these Heavens are so vastly thick, they are so transparent and clear, that the Stars by reason of their great Light appear with ease through them, indeed being no Impediment thereunto, but appear so small unto us through their great distance; for were not the Heavens so thick, they could not have contained each one his Planet or Star; for according to the Opi­nion of some Philosophers and Astronomers, every 40 fixed Star is greater than the Earth; the like are the Planets, except the Moon, Mercury, and Venus. And according to the Judgment of the Ancients, Saturn is 79 times bigger than the Earth; Jupi­ter 81, Mars 2, and the Sun 167 times greater than the Earth. As for Venus, she is said to be 28 times less than the Earth; Mercury 3143 times, and the Moon 39 times less than the Earth, which is 21600 Miles in Compass.

The Opinion of Ticho Brahe, concerning the 50 distance of the Firmament, Sun, Moon, &c. from the Earth, is thus; from the Center of the Earth to the Sun there is 3923912 Miles, or 1142 Semidiameters▪ from the Center of the Earth to the Moon there is 56 Semidiameters; and from the Center of the Earth to the Firma­ment 48104000 Miles, or 14000 Semidiameters, Now the Diameter of the Earth contains 6872 Miles, and the Semidiameter the Moity, which is 3436 Miles. 60

A Planet from the Greek is termed a wan­dring Star, which moves in a Heaven by it self; but their various Motions do occasion them to be at a nearer distance sometimes, than at others.

The SPHAERE.

THe Sphaere is a Solid Body, contained un­der one Super [...]cies, having in the midst thereof a Prick, or Point, which is the Center of the Sphaere, from whence all right Lines drawn to the Circumference are equal the one to the other, as this following Figure demonstrates.

By the Center is to be understood the Terre­strial Globe, and the outward Circumferences the Celestial.

The Sphaere is distinguished by 10 Circles, whereof 6 are great, and 4 less; and there are only 8 described upon the Body of the Globe. limiting the Zones and Motion of the Planets; as the Equinoctial, the Ecliptick, the Equinoctial Colure, the Solstitial Colure, the Tropicks of Can­cer and Capricorn, the Artick Polar Circle, the Antartick Polar Circle; the Horizon and Meridian are not described upon the Body of the Globe, but Artificially annexed thereunto, for the better and more ample use.

The AEQVATOR.

[figure]

THe Aequator, or Aequinoctial, is a great Circle, being that strait Line drawn through the middle of each Hemisphere which is parallel to the top and bottom of a Map of the World; It is that great Circle which is equally distant from both Poles, dividing the Earth into two Parts. It is called the Aequator, or Aequinoctial Line, because when the Sun comes to this Line, which is twice a Year, viz▪ on the 10th of March▪ and on the 12th of September, the Days and Nights are of an equal length. It likewise shews the Aequinoctial Points by cutting the Z [...]diack in the beginning of Aries and Libra. It is also the Measure of the Hours; for by its Elevation 15 Degrees above the Horizon a compleat Hour is finish'd. It is also the Measure of the rising and setting of the Stars, the Term from which the Declinations are numbred, and the beginning of Geographical-Latitudes.

[Page 82] The Explanation of the Figure of the Sphaere; A, B, is the Aequinoctial Line; C, D, the Zodiack; E, D, the Tropick of Capricorn; F, G, the Tropick of Cancer; H, the Pole-Artick, or North-Pole; L, the Pole Antartick, or [...]outh-Pole; M, N, the Artick Circle; O, P, the Antartick Circle; Q, R, S, T, the Coloure of the Aequinox; and I, K, V, W, the Meridian and Colure of the Solstice.

The Aequator, or Aequinoctial Line, is of great use in Geography, marking out the distances of 10 places both in Latitude and Longtitude; for from this Line the Degrees of Latitude are begun to be reckoned, going towards either of the Poles; and the Degrees of Longitude are also reckoned on this Circle.

Of the Poles.

THe Poles are the Pricks or Specks at both ends of the Axis, or two Points which 20 terminate the said Axis, for every Line is termi­nated by two Points. Or the Poles are two Points that are directly at the top and bottom of either of the two great Meridians, and are distant from the Aequator 90 Degrees. In these two Points all the Merdians meet.

In the Sphaere there are two Poles, the Artick, and Antartick, which are called the Im­moveable Points of the Vniverse about which the Heavens are turned.30

The Artick, or North Pole, is frequently visible to us in Europe, and to the greatest part of Asia: The Antartick, or Southern Pole, is not to be seen to us, as being opposite to the Artick, so that it is visible to our Antipodes.

There are 10 Circles of the Sphaere, viz. fix great, and four lesser▪ of which the Pole are rec­koned; and the lesser Circles have their Centers contrary to that of the Sphaere, which is the rea­son that they do not divide it into two equal 40 parts, as the Polar Circles, Artick and Antortick, and likewise the Tropicks of Capricorn and Can­cer.

The Artick is one of the less Circles of the Sphaere, which describes the Pole of the Zodiack when it moves about the Artick Pole; The An­tartick is that which describes the other Southern Pole of the Zodiack about the Antartick Pole of the Vniverse.

The Horizon.50

THe Horizon is one of the great Circles, which divides the Sphaere into two Hemi­sphaeres, viz. into that which is above and visible to us, and that which is beneath and invisible unto us, whose Poles are the Zenith, and the Nadir. In this Circle the Azimuths, or Vertical Circles are numbred; and by this Circle our Days and Nights are measured out, for whilst the 60 Sun is above our Horizon it is Day, and when un­der it is Night.

The Horizon is either Natural, or Mathemati­cal. The Natural Horizon is that apparent Cir­cle which divides the visible part of Heaven from the invisible: It extends it self in a strait Line from the Superficies of the Earth, every way round about the place on which you stand, even into the very Circumference of the Hea­vens; It is only discerned at Sea, or on plain Ground free from Hills, Trees, or the like Im­pediments. The Mathematical Horizon is that Circle that can't be described on the Map, as be­ings alterable, according to the motion of any Man from the place he stands on.

The Horizon is of great use for divers occasi­ons: It shews what Stars appear to us, and what not, with their Rising and Setting. It di­rects us to find the height of the Pole, Sun, and Stars, by which the Latitude is found out; and by this Circle the Artificial Days are distinguished from the Artificial Nights, as being the Measure thereof.

Although there is properly but one Horizon, yet those that Travel by Sea or Land, do from time to time change their Horizon, disco­vering some part of the Heavens, which before could not be seen, be­cause of the roundness of the Sea and Land; for although one change his Horizon, he doth not change it in its kind; for in what place soever he is in, he will see no other Horizon, by reason he seeth half of the Heavens.

[figure]

This Figure further explains it: The Globe A, B, represents the Earth; the Circle C, R, D, S, the Heavens; R, the Zenith; S, the Nadir; C, E, D, F, the Rational Horizon; O, the place of the Spectators Eye; T, the Antipodes, and O, A, B, the sensible Horizon, whose Semidiameter O, A, or O, B, is not above three Miles, when the Eye is not above six Foot from the Surface of the Earth, but increaseth proportionably to the height of the Eye, or thing seen.

Of the Zodiack, Ecliptick, Line, Signs, &c.

THe Zodiack is another great Circle, which alone doth comprehend 16 Degrees, and divides the Sphaere into two equal Parts by cutting the Aequator at Oblique Angles, or slo­pingly, into two Points, the one in the beginning of Aries, and the other in the beginning of Libra; so that one half of the Circle decli­neth towards the North as far as the Tropick of Cancer; and the other half towards the South, as far as the Tropick of Capricorn, as appears by the Figure of the Sphaere. In the middle thereof is the Ecliptick Line, in which the Sun moves; for when the Sun and Moon are in Conjunction, Eclipses happen beneath this Line. The other Plane [...]s pass under the aforesaid Latitude; but the Sun never goes beyond the Ecliptick. This Ecliptick Line is divided into 360 Degrees, and the Division begins at the first Point of Aries, which is the Equinox on the 10th of March; from which Point the Longitude of the Stars are also reckoned, according to the Succession of the Signs, viz. from Aries to Taurus, and so forth. The Declination or Distance of the Ecliptick [Page 83] from the Aequator is 23 Degrees, 31 Minutes: And by the Obliquity of the Ecliptick Line with the Horizon, the inequality of the Days and Nights are known; also it distinguisheth the time and season of the Months and Year, as likewise the Degrees at which the Stars rise and set.

The Zodiack is divided into 12 equal Parts, which are called the 12 Signs, which are noted by certain Names and Characters, as followeth, Aries, or the Ram ♈; Taurus, or the Bull10 Gemini, or the TwinsCancer, or the Crab ♋; Leo, or the Lion ♌; Virgo, or the Virgin ♍; Libra, or the Ballance ♎; Scorpio, or the Scorpion ♏; Sagittarius, or the Archer ♐; Capricorn, or the Goat ♑; Aquarius, or the Pourer of Water ♒; and Pisces, or the Fish. ♓. Of these Signs the first six are called Northern, by reason of their being on the North-side of the Aequator; and the other six last named are called Southern Signs, as being on the South-side of the Aequator. And 20 every Sign is divided into 30 Parts, called De­grees, each Degree containing on Earth 60 Eng­lish Miles, so that the Sun is 30 Days (or there­abouts) in each Sign; entring on the 10th of March into Aries, on the 10th of April into Taurus, on the 11th of May into Gemini, on the 11th of June into Cancer, on the 13th of July into Leo, on the 13th of August into Virgo, on the 13th of September into Libra, on the 13th of October into Scorpio, on the 12th of November into 30 Sagittarius, on the 11th of December into Capricorn, on the 10th of January into Aquarius, and on the 8th of February into Pisces.

The Zodiack contains in Breadth 16 Degrees, that is, 8 on each side of the Ecliptick, in which the Planets, as also the aforesaid Signs do move.

Now all these Circles of the Sphaere are divi­ded into two equal Parts, each containing 360 Degrees, so called from the Motion of the Sun 40 in the Zodiack, making almost all the Spaces by its Diurnal Motion. Again, each Degree is di­vided into 60 other Proportions, which are cal­led the first Scruples or Minutes: Each of these are again divided into 60 Seconds, every Second into 60 Thirds, every Third into as many Fourths, and so consequently into Decimats, or Tenths, so that one Minute is the 60th part of a Degree, one Second the 60th part of a Minute, one Third the 60th part of a Second; and so consequently 50 according to the Multitudes produced of an Vnite.

500 Furlongs on Earth is equavalent to each Degree in one of the Great Circles in the Sphaere, so that the Zodiack is divided (according to Longitude) into four equal parts, which are called Quadrants, as all the other Great Circles of the Sphaere.

The QVADRANT is likewise divided into three Signs, each Sign into 30 Degrees, each De­gree 60 into six Minutes, and each Minute as afore­said, and so to Decimats; from whence may be observed, that all before Minutes are intire Spaces, or Distances; but those that follow are but parts of the Intire.

All the Circles of the Sphaere were invented to separate the Heavens into certain Spaces and Regions, called Zones and Climates; and as we imagine them in the Regions of the Heavens, in like manner are they described on the Surface of the Earth: And hence it may be concluded, that the four little Circles (which hereafter shall be dis­coursed of) distinguish five Spaces in the Surface of the Heavens and Earth, which are called Zones from their likeness to a Girdle.

The MERIDIAN.

THe MERIDIAN is likewise another great Circle passing through the Poles of the World, and the Zenith, or Vertical Point to any place. It is called Meridian, as dividing the Day into two equal parts, being as far from the Hori­zon, or Sun-Rising to Mid-day, as from Mid-day to Sun-Setting; and there are as many Meridians as you may suppose Points in the Aequator; never­theless Hydrographers and Geographers do gene­rally draw them but at 10 Degrees distance from one another on their Plats.

There are not so many Meridians as Zeniths, for all Places scituated North and South one from another have the same Meridian, so that should you Travel never so far North from South, or South from North, you would not change your Meridian, as being always under the same Circle: But it is not so going from East to West, or from West to East, for then you change your Meridian. And the Meridian that passeth through the Ze­nith, passes also through the Nadir.

Amongst the Meridians there is one most re­markable, which hath the Name of the first Me­ridian, because that from it Eastward the Longitude is reckoned upon the Aequator; and this Meridian on the Globe, or Maps, is commonly placed with us at the Island Gratiosa, which is one of the Isles of the Azores; but formerly at the Canary Islands, which was the furthest part of the World then discovered.

The use of the Meridian sheweth the greatest Altitude of the Sun and Stars, and their nearest distance from our Zenith, their Declinations and Right-Ascensions. It also makes the Longitude; and by it the Latitude is reckoned, and come to the knowledge of the East-part of the World from the West-part thereof; and likewise the Midst of the Artificial Days and Nights, from which the Hours are begun to be reckoned.

The COLVRES.

THe Colures are two other Great Circles in the Sphaere, which passing by the Poles divide the Sphaere, and themselves into two equal parts, one of which when it comes by through the Points of the Aequator, is called the Aequi­noctial Colure, as cutting the Ecliptick in the begin­ning of Aries and Libra, which makes the Days and Nights equal; the other, when through the Point of the Solstice is called the Colure of the Solstices, which is called the Circle of the Decli­nation, shewing how far the Sun is retired behind the Aequator, which is on the 11th of June, and the 11th of December, at which time the Sun seems to stand, for that he can go no further by [Page 84] reason of the Tropicks, which are his Bounds.

The Solstices are distinguished by the Summer Solstice, which is when the Sun enters the Tro­pick of Cancer, which maketh our longest Days; the other the Winter Solstice, which is when the Sun enters the Tropick of Capricorn, the time of our shortest Days.

These Colures (by intersecting one another) di­vide themselves into four Semi-Circles, and these Semi-Circles divide the Ecliptick into four equal 10 Parts.

The Points of the Ecliptick, that those Inter­sections pass through, are called the four Cardinal Points, and are of great use in Astronomy; for according to the Suns approach to any of them the Season of the Year is altered into Spring, Summer, Autumn, and Winter; for the Spring be­gins at the Vernal Equinox, or beginning of Aries, which is the 10th of March; the Summer at the Summer Solstice, which is the beginning of Can­cer, 20 being the 11th of June; the Autumn at the Autumnal Equinox, which is the beginning of Libra, being the 12th of September; And the Winter, at the Winter Solstice, which is the begin­ning of Capricorn, being the 11th of December.

Of the four Lesser Circles, viz. the two Tropicks, and the two Polar Circles.

THe TROPICKS are so called, because 30 that when the Sun cometh at either of these two Circles he turneth back again; and be­cause one of the Tropicks passeth through the first Point of Cancer, it beareth the name of the Tropick of Cancer, and maketh the Summer Sol­stice, the Sun never going beyond it. The other Tropick is of Capricorn, so called by reason of the Suns passing through the first Point, or Degree of Capricorn, and maketh the Winter Solstice.

Now forasmuch as we are to imagine the 40 same Circles upon the Earth, as in the Heavens. This Fi­gure sheweth the same, with more than upon the Sphaere.

[figure]

Suppose then you are in a right Sphaere (where the Poles are at the Horizon) A, B, 50 is the Aequinoctial.

C, D, the Tropick of Cancer, and E, F, the Tro­pick of Capricorn; and both distant from the Ae­quinoctial 23 Degrees, 31 Minutes.

G, H, the Artick Circle, and I, K, the Antartick Circle; C, F, the Ecliptick.

The Points, or occult Circle L, M, is the Hori­zon.

The Distance between the Tropicks C, D, and E, F, is the Torrid Zone. 60

The Distance or Interval between the Tropicks, and the Polar Circles, viz. between CG, HD, and EI, KF, are the two Temperate Zones.

And the Intervals between the Polar Circles, and the Poles, are the Frigid Zones.

The use of the Tropicks is to mark the longest and shortest Days, as also to limit the Torrid Zone, as well as the Suns Course.

The Polar Circles are each distant from the Poles of the World 23 Degrees, 30 Minutes.

They are called Polar, as being supposed to be in the Heaven, exactly where the Poles of the Ecliptick turn about the Poles of the World.

Of these Polar Circles one is called Artick, and the other Antartick; the Artick, because it passeth through the Constellation of Vrsa Ma­jor; and the Antartick, as being opposite to the Artick.

These Circles bound the Temperate Zones on the North, and South sides of them.

Of the ZONES.

A Zone is a Circular part of the Heaven and Earth, contained between two Parallels, or Circles, of a considerable breadth. Of these Zones there are five, viz. two Frigid, two Tempe­rate, and one Torrid.

The Frozen Zones are two parts of the Earth, the one comprehended betwixt the North Pole, and the Artick Circle; and the other between the South Pole, and the Antartick Circle; They were supposed by the Antients Uninhabited, by reason of the extream Cold there always predominat­ing, occasioned by the remoteness of the Sun, which strikes his Beams so obliquely and weakly upon them.

The Temperate Zones are also two parts of the Earth, the one between the Tropick of Cancer, and the Artick Circle; and the other between the Tropick of Capricorn, and the Antartick Circle. These Zones the Antients allowed Habitable, by reason of their Temperateness.

The Torrid Zone is that Space of Earth▪ contain­ed between the two Tropicks, Supposed by the Antients Uninhabited, through the rageing heat, the Sun never moving out of this Zone, but dart­ings its Beams perpendicularly upon it.

But by Experience 'tis found otherwise, for both the Torrid, and Frigid Zones are inhabited, es­pecially the Torrid by sundry Nations, or sorts of People; and 'tis found that those Europeans that have transplanted themselves into those parts, especially the American Plantation, have enjoyed a liberal measure of Health, and that they are Countreys of great fertility and plenty.

The PARALLELS.

THe PARALEELS that distinguish the Climates, are Circles drawn round the Globe between the two Poles, as the Aequator and the Tropicks, which are separate from those of the Aequator by a certain equal Space, which is called a Climate, by which they serve to distinguish the Climates, which shew the length of the Day in every Region or Countrey; and are also of use for the knowing the Degrees of Latitude.

The AZIMVTHS.

THe AZIMVTHS, or Vertical Circles, are great Circles passing through the Zenith and Nadir, whose Poles are the Zenith and Nadir; And as the Meridians cut the Aequator, and all [Page 85] the Parallels to the Aequator at right Angles, so the Azimuths cut the Horizon, and all Almican­thars, at right Angles also.

The Azimuths (as the Meridians) are infinite, and are numbred by Degrees from the East, and West Points, towards the North and South, in the Horizon.

The Azimuths take their beginning from the Point, at which the Sun rises, when it is at the Aequator, which is the true East and West, from 10 whence they are reckoned Southwards, and you may suppose as many Azimuths as Points, or Degrees in the Horizon which are 360. And the Azimuth of the Sun and Stars, is the number of Degrees comprehended on the Horizon, between the Azimuth that passeth through the Center, of the Sun and Stars, to the Horizon; and the true East and West Point, as aforesaid: Now by the Latitude of your place, the Declination of the Sun and Stars, and their Altitude above your 20 Horizon, you may know the Azimuth of the Sun and Stars. Likewise the Azimuth sheweth at what part of the Heaven, or point of the Compass the Sun and Stars are at any time, be­ing above the Horizon; also it sheweth the variation of the Compass, and how two places bear from one another; for the Compass being divided, into 32 parts, are the same as so many half of Azimuths, or Vertical Circles falling down flat as they appear on the Compass. 30

The ZENITH, and NADIR.

THe Zenith, and Nadir, are two Points op­posite to one another. The Zenith is that Point in the Heaven, which is directly over our Heads; and the Nadir is that Point in the Hea­ven, directly under your Feet.

The ALMICANTHARS.40

THese are little Circles, Parallels, to the Horizon, whose Poles are the Zenith, and the Nadir as ap­pears by the Figure, where AB, being the Horizon, CD, EF, GH, IK, and the other Cir­cles, 50 Parallel to the Horizon, are called Almican­thars.

[figure]

The Almicanthars are also Circles of Altitude, because when the Sun, Moon, or any Star, is in any number of Degrees, above the Horizon, 'tis said to have so many Degrees of Altitude, which said Degrees are numbred upon the Verticle Circle, from the Horizon, upwards towards the Zenith. The Almicanthars are also infinite as the Parallels, Meridians, and Azimuths are; nevertheless there 60 is seldom more reckoned than there are Degrees from the Horizon, to the Zenith, which is 90. These Circles are of no great use; for those of the Azimuth, perform the same, only serving to mark the Altitude of the Sun and Stars.

Of LATITVDE.

THe Latitude is an Arch of the Meridian, comprehended between the Aequator, and the Zenith, or place enquired after. It is num­bred on the first Meridian, from the Aequator, both ways, viz. Norths and South, until it comes to the Poles, or 90 Degrees.

Of LONGITVDE.

THe Longitude of a place is the distance from the first Meridian, to the Meridian it passes through the Zenith, or Vertical Point of the place whose Longitude is desired to be known; It Sig­nifies the Length of the Earth, from East to West. But of this more anon.

Of the difference in Latitude, and Longitude.

THe difference in Latitude, is the Degrees and Minutes, comprehended between two Latitudes; and this is known by adding the lesser Latitude to the greater, when they are on diffe­rent sides of the Aequator, the one being North, and the other South Latitude: And by Subtract­ing the lesser from the greater, when they are both on the same side the Aequator.

The Difference in Longitude, is also the Degrees and Minutes comprehended betwixt the two Me­ridians; And this is known by Subtracting the lesser Longitude from the greater, and the remain­der will be the difference in Longitude. But ob­serve, that if one Longitude be on the West side of it, and the other on the East; or that one be on the East, and the other on the West side of it; that you always add 360 Degrees to the least of the Longitudes to have their differences

Of the Meridian Altitude of the SUN and STARS, and of their Declination.

THe Meridian Altitude, is the greatest Height of the Sun or Stars above the Horizon, which is when they come to our Meridian.

The Declination is the distance of the Sun or Stars from the Aequator; that is to say, it is an Arch of the Meridian comprehended between the Aequator and the Sun, or Stars.

The Suns greatest Declination at present is 23 Degrees, 30 Minutes; for so soon as it comes to the Tropicks, it returns towards the Aequator, and so by little and little his Declination lesseneth. But when the Sun is at the Equinoctal, or first Point of Aries, and Libra, which is the 10th of March, and 11th of September, he hath no Declination.

The Declination of the Stars differ according to their Latitude and Longitude.

The Complement of the Altitude of the Sun, Stars, and Pole above our Horizon, is the De­grees that the Sun, or Star, is distant from our Zenith, which being added to the Degrees of Al­titude, makes up the 90 Degrees that our Zenith is distant from the Horizon.

[Page 86] The Complement of the Declination is an Arch, or number of Degrees, comprehended between the Sun or Star, and the nearest Pole of the World.

The Complement of the Latitude is the Height of the Aequator above the Horizon.

The distance of the Sun, or Stars from our Zenith, is the Degrees and Minutes, comprehend­ed between the Zenith and Center of the Sun or Star; so that the Altitude is always the Comple­ment 10 of their distance from our Zenith.

Of the Amplitude Ortive, and Occasive.

THis is the Degrees and Minutes, that the Sun, or any Star rises distant from the true East Point. Or to explain it more, It is an Arch of the Horizon, comprehended between the true East, and the Point that the Sun, or Star riseth at, either Southwards or Northwards. For when the 20 Sun hath North Declination, his Amplitude is also North; and when his Declination is South, his Amplitude is also South, which makes it, that from the 10th of March, to the 11th of Septem­ber, the Sun rises and sets on the North side of the Equinoctial; and from the 11th of Septem­ber, to the 10th of March, his rising and setting is on the South side.

Of CLIMES, or CLIMATES.30

A Climate is a Space comprehended between to Parallels, in which there is half an Hours alteration of Day, presently after the be­gining of it to the end of the same. Where it is to be noted, by how much the further the Cli­mate is from the Aequator, so much by half an Hour shall the longest Day of that place, exceed the Day that is equal to the Night.

On each side of the Aequator, there are 24 40 Climates; the furthest of which ends at that part of the Earth, where the longest Day in the Year is 24 Hours, which is in the Latitude of 66 De­grees and 30 Minutes, being right under the Po­lar Circles, viz. the Artick, and Antartick, and no further, by reason the longest Day is no more to be accounted by Hours, but rather by Weeks, and Months; in so much that those inhabiting right under the North Pole, have six Months Day, whilst the Sun is in the Northern Signs, and six 50 Months Night, when the Sun is in the South Signs, or hath Declination South; Also those that dwell right under the South Pole, have the like quanti­ty of Months Day, the Sun being in the six South­ern Signs, or having South Declination, and the like space of time Night, whilst the Sun is in the six Northern Signs. But although it is said to be so long Night, yet it is not so dark as our Nights. for as the Sun never goeth lower under the Hori­zon of those People there inhabiting than 23 60 Degrees, the Twilight, or Dawning of the Day, doth almost always appear; and there is one part of that time in which it is considerable light, and that is when the Sun appears to them by Re­fraction, which is when the Sun is near the Ho­rizon.

If you would know in what Climate a place is situate; subtract the length of the Aequinoctial Day, which is 12 Hours from the longest Day of the proposed place, and doubling the remainder to reduce it into half Hours, will shew in what Climate the place is situated; for Example, Sup­pose that at Oxford the longest Day in Summer, is 16 Hours and an Half, if you subtract 12 Hours from it, the Remainder is 4 ¼ Hours, which being reduced into half Hours, makes 9; so that Oxford is in the 9th Clime, from the Equinoctial Northwards.

A Table shewing the longest Day, in every Degree of Latitude.
Latitud.Longest Day.
DegreesH. M. S.
112 3 28
212 6 56
312 10 24
412 14 0
512 17 28
612 20 56
712 24 48
812 28 0
912 32 36
1012 35 12
1112 38 48
1212 42 41
1312 46 8
1412 49 44
1512 53 28
1612 57 20
1713 1 4
1813 4 46
1913 8 56
2013 12 48
2113 16 48
2213 21 4
2313 25 4
2413 29 20
2513 33 35
2613 38 0
2713 42 24
2813 46 16
2913 51 36
3013 56 16
3114 1 12
3214 6 8
3314 11 12
3414 16 24
3514 21 52
3614 27 20
3714 33 4
3814 37 36
3914 44 56
4014 51 12
4114 57 44
4215 4 24
4315 11 20
4415 18 40
4515 26 8
4615 34 8
4715 42 24
4815 51 4
4916 0 8
5016 9 24
5116 19 52
5216 30 52
5316 41 52
5416 54 8
5517 7 4
5617 21 4
5717 36 16
5817 52 48
5918 10 48
6018 30 56
6118 53 20
6219 18 24
6319 48 40
6420 24 24
6521 10 32
6622 20 40
DegreesDays H. M.
6742 1 40
6842 1 16
6954 16 25
7064 13 46
7174 0 0
7282 6 36
7389 4 58
7496 17 0
75104 1 4
76110 7 27
77116 14 22
78122 17 6
79127 9 55
80134 4 58
81139 31 36
82145 6 43
83151 2 6
84156 3 3
85161 5 23
86166 11 23
87171 21 47
88176 5 29
89181 21 58
90187 6 39

The Position of the Sphaere,

IN respect to the Horizon, 'tis found that the Sphaere is constituted into a threefold Posi­tion; As First, into a direct Sphaere; Secondly, into a Parallel Sphaere; and Thirdly, into an Ob­lique Sphaere.

A Direct Sphaere hath both the Poles in the Horizon, and the Aequinoctial transiting the Ze­nith. 10 In a Direct Sphaere all the Circles Parallel. to the Aequator make right Angles with the Ho­rizon, and are also divided into two equal parts, by the Horizon; and in a Direct Sphaere the Sun, Moon, and Stars are always 12 Hours above the Horizon, and 12 Hours under it, and so by con­sequenee make 12 Hours Days, and 12 Hours Night.

It is called a Direct Sphaere, because all the Celestial Bodies, as the Sun, Moon, and Stars, 02 viz. by the Diurnal Motion of the Primum Mo­bile ascend directly above, and descend directly below the Horizon.

Those that Inhabit under the Aequator have the Sphaere thus posited, as in the Isle of St. Thomas, Sumatra, Bor­neo, Celebes, a great part of Africa, and America. A, is the South Pole. 30 B, is the North Pole. A B, is the Horizon. C D, the Aequinoctial. E F, the Tropick of Cancer.

[figure]

G H, the Tropick of Capricorn.

The Space betwixt G C, C E, and H D, D F, are the Parallels that the Sun describes in making his Revolution. The Arches under the Horizon A B, are the Night Arches, and those above it 40 the Day Arches.

A Parallel Sphaere hath one Pole of the World in the Zenith, the other in the Nadir, and the Equinoctial Line in the Horizon.

In a Parallel Sphaere all the Circles that are Parallel to the Equinoctial, are also Parallel to the Horizon; and in a Parallel Sphaere from the 10th of March to the 11th of September (the Sun being then in the Northern Signs, and conse­quently on the North side of the Hemisphaere) there are six Months Day in the North, and six 50 Months Night in the South; and on the contrary, from the 11th of September to the 10th of March (the Sun being then in the Southernly Signs, and by consequence on the South-side of the Horizon) there are six Month Day in the South, and six Months Night in the North.

It is called a Parallel Sphaere, because the Sun, Moon, or Stars, in the Diurnal Revolution of the Heavens neither ascend, or descend, but always move Parallel to the Horizon. 60

That is, When one of the Poles is in the Zenith, and the other in the Nadir, and that the Aequator is Parallel to the Horizon; as in this Figure, which shews how the Earth is posited to those suppo­sed to dwell under the Pole.

[figure]

An Oblique Sphaere hath the Axis of the World, neither Direct, nor Parallel to the Horizon. but lies slopwise from it.

In an Oblique Sphaere all the Celestial Bodies, as the Sun, Moon, Stars, &c. have (in respect of the Horizon) oblique and unequal Ascensions and Descensions, and all the Lines Parallel to the Aequator make unequal Angles with the Horizon, and are cut by the Horizon into unequal parts; for those Lines towards the Elevated Pole have a greater proportion of a Circle under the Horizon, than above it; only the Aequator, because it hath the same Center with the Horizon, doth di­vide the Horizon into two equal parts, and is also divided into two equal parts by the Hori­zon.

[figure]

According to which it follows, that when the Sun is in any part of the Ecliptick that declines towards the elevated Pole, the Days in the ele­vated Hemisphaere shall be longer than the Nights, and when the Sun is in any part of the Eclipstick that declines towards the depressed Pole, the Nights shall be longer than the Days; but when the Sun is in the Aequinoctial (because whether the Pole be raised, or depressed) equal proportions remain both above, and under the Horizon; therefore the Days are of the same length with the Nights, and the Nights with the Days.

Also in an Oblique Sphaere all those Stars that have as great, or greater number of Degrees of Declination, than is the elevated Poles Complement of Latitude to 90, never set, nor come under the Horizon; and those Stars that have the same Declination above the depressed Pole, never rise.

It is called an Oblique Sphaere, because all the Circles of the Sphaere move Obliquely above the Horizon. The Earth is thus oblique­ly posited to all those Nations that Inhabit under any Degree of Latitude, either North or Southwards, be­tween the Aequator and either Pole, as may be seen by this Fi­gure.

[figure]

Of ECLIPSES.

THere are two sorts of Eclipses, the one of the Sun, and the other of the Moon; and of these there are four every Year, viz. two of each, although not always visible unto us.

[Page 88] Eclipses are occasioned when the Sun and Moon are at the same time under the Ecliptick, or when they meet at the Head or Tail of the Dragon: that is, those two Points on the Eclip­tick, under which the Moon passeth in making her own proper Revolution.

An Eclipse of the Moon, is when the Sun and Moon are Diametrically opposed one to another, and that the Earth is betwixt them, which is the cause thereof, keeping from her the Light that 10 she borrows of the Sun. And these Eclipses of the Moon do always happen when she is in her Full: And the Eclipses of the Sun, only when the Moon is in Conjunction with him, that is, being interposed betwixt him and the Earth; but the Sun being so much bigger there can't be a total Eclipse, as there may be of the Moon, which is less than the Earth.

To find the Distances and Magnitudes of the 20 STARS, and their swift Motions proper for them.

WE will instance in the Moon, whose distance may be thus found: First, Find the Moons Elevation above the Horizon by the help of an Astronomical Quadrant; as suppose 30 De­grees; then according to this Fi­gure conclude the Arch e, d, will be 60 Degrees: Then to go on to 30 find the quantity of the Triangle from the quantity of the Arch d, e, judge the Angle c, to be 60 Degrees; also the quantity of the Arch h, f, and consequently of its opposite Angle being known, conclude the quantity of the internal Angle e, a, c; which for Example, if it be found to be 100 Degrees, there will remain 20 Degrees for the Angle e. Upon this foundation suppose c, a, the Diameter of the Earth to be 1718 Leagues, 40 then from the Precepts of Trigonometria proceed thus: If the Sign of the Angle e, being 20 De­grees, gives 1718 Leagues for the Side a, c, op­posite to it; how many will the Sign of the Angle c. give for the Side a, e, which is the di­stance of the Moon from the Superficies of the Earth, to which the Semidiameter of the Earth is to be added to gain the distance from the Center of the World?

[figure]

But this is the more common Method of 50 finding the distance of any Planet, which by the help of the Parallaxis is per­formed as followeth, accord­ing to this Figure. Let the lesser Circle h, g, be for the Globe of the Earth, whose Semidiameter is b, a; then sup­posing l, to be the Planet, let m, the true place of the said Planet in the Firmament l, m, e, be Elevated 60 above the Horizon 40 Degrees; but let l, the Suns apparent place, be Elevated only 30 De­grees. Then the Parallaxis will be only 10 De­grees, and consequently the Angle opposite to the Arch l, m, will be 10 Degrees. Therefore so much likewise must the Angle be, which is op­posite to it at the Vertex within the Triangle b, j, a, whereof b, a, is known to be 1718 Leagues.

[figure]

Moreover the Angle a, becomes known from the Arch in e, which must of necessity be 50 Degrees, from this Hypothesis, that the Elevation of the place m, was 40 Degrees. These things thus laid down, it may be thence inferr'd; If the Paralletick Angle i, or rather the Sign of the Angle i, being 10 Degrees, gives the Side b, a, 1718 Leagues: How many will the Sign of the Angle a, give for the Side b, j, which is the di­stance of the Superficies of the Earth?

Much after the same Method, by the Doctrine of Trigonometria some find the Suns Altitude as in this Figure; Suppose the Sun to be in the Horizon, and the Moon in i, c, o, n, to be distant from it 87 Degrees; then sup­pose the Line n, o, to be per­pendicularly drawn from the Sun to the Moon, constituting right Angles in the Lunar Body it self.

[figure]

Hence if the Angle at the Center of the World under the Arch, d a, be granted to be 87 Degrees, it will follow that the Angle a, in the Sun will be only 3 Degrees; whence it may be thus conclud­ed; As the Angle of the 3 Degrees, at the side of the Lunar distance from the Center of the World, which by the former Problem is taken for known; so is the Angle a, o, b, to the side b a, which is the Suns distance, from the Center of the World. Whence if we Subtract, the Semidiameter of the Earth, the Suns distance from the Earths Super­ficies will be thence known.

Secondly, From the common Observation, and Computation of Astronomers; The Moons Apogaean, (that is in its farthest distance,) is distant from the Center of the Earth, or which is the same thing, 104798 Leagues, which number ariseth from the Multiplication of 1718, the number of Leagues in the Earths Semidiameter by 61.

The Moons Perigaean, (that is its least dist­ance from the Earth,) is 89336 Leagues.

The Suns Perigaean, (that is its least dist­ance from the Earth,) is 1101 Semidiameters, or 1891518 Leagues.

But according to the opinion of Clavius, the Sun is distant from the Earth, 2089088 Leagues.

The Stars of the Firmament are distant from the said Centers of the Earth, 14000 Semidia­meters, or 20452000 Leagues.

Here we follow the common Observations of Bourdinus, and Clavius, although some there be that differ, as Lanspergius, &c.

Thirdly, As to the Magnitude of these Heaven­ly Bodies, and the Heavens in which they are; it may be determined divers ways. In the first place several Arguments may be drawn to prove the Magnitude of the Sun and Moon from the Shadow of the Earth, For suppose the Suns Sha­dow cast from the Earth to be finite, and the Beams at lenghth to meet, as in this Figure, otherwise if the said Shadow should be cast in Infinitum, it would not only involve the Moon when it suff­ers an Eclipse, but also Mars, Ju­piter, and the other Planets, and even the very [Page 89] Stars of the Firmament; the contrary whereof is found by experience. Also certain it is that this Shadow of the Earth, becomes Conical, as appears by the Moon, when she is in the Wain, for then the Confine of the Shadow, is always Circular. which proceeds from no other cause, than from the round form of the said Shadow. Moreover this is certain, that the Moon suffers not an Eclipse, except so far as it falls out up­on the Shadow of the Earth: whereupon that 10 Eclipse of the Moon, is longest where she is less distant from the Earth, because that part of the Cone is always biggest which comes nearest to the Basis. These things thus supposed; It is first to be inferr'd that the Sun is bigger than the Globe of the Earth, because as oft as the Shadow of the Opac Body is Conical, and the extream Rays at length meet, then always the Lucid part is bigger than the 20 Opac Body, as appears by the Figures at the Letter c.

[figure]

[figure]

Likewise it is to be inferr'd, that the Moon is lesser not only than the Sun, but also than the Globe of the Earth, forasmuch as it is sometimes all hid within the Shadow of the Earth, which Shadow nevertheless, when as it proceeds from the Earth in fashion of a Top, or Cone, it always so much the more Decreases, by how much the farther it is cast from the Earth it self, as is manifest by the 30 aforesaid Figures.

Moreover the determined Magnitude of those Bodies might be assigned from the Principles of Geometry, after this manner, according to this Figure. If from a known di­stance by a proper Instrument, the Diameter of the Star b, c, be taken from the Eye a, from thence will be produced 40 the Isosceles Triangle a, b, c, whose Angle a, being known, consequently the quantity of those An­gles will be known, which are at the Base b, c. Whence the Astronomers make this Conclusion; As the Sign of the Angle b, is to the Side, or known distance a, c, so is the Angle a, to the op­posite Side b, c.

[figure]

There is another very common and safe way of inquiring into the Magnitude of Stars, for that of the Sun is particular, since Astronomers 50 have by certain reason and experience found, that the Diameter of the Suns Body possesseth the dimidiated, or half Degree of that Circle which it runs through in its Diurnal motion: And when by the Suns distance from the Center of the World, the circumference of the Circle is found, it will be easie by Arithmetical Division to find the quantity of the dimidiated Degree. And from thence they affirm, that the Suns Dia­meter contains five Diameters and an half of 60 the Earth; whence also according to the Precepts of Cyclometry, they easily judge of its other Magnitudes.

Thus, whereas the Suns Diameter is to the Diameter of the Earth, as 5 ½ to 1; and whereas the Sphaeres are in a Triplicate proportion of their Diameters; it follows, that the Suns Body contains the Magnitude of the Terrestrial Globe above 166 times, when at the same time the Moon is 40 times less than the Globe of the Earth.

In like manner by Geometrical Proportion, it is found by Astronomers that the Magnitudes of other Stars; affirming, that those Stars of the Firmament, which are said to be of the first Magnitude, are 107 times bigger than the Globe of the Earth; and that those which are said to be of the sixth Magnitude exceed the said Globe of of the Earth 18 times, or thereabouts.

Note, that the Duplicate distance of any Star from the Center of the Earth, makes the whole Diameter of the Heaven, or of that Circle which the Star runs through in its Diurnal motion. Thus the Diameter thereof being known, the Circumference is easily found by the Rule of Three. So that.

Fourthly, The Circle of the Moons Perigaean is 561540 Leagues, of the Moons Apogaean 658730 Leagues.

The Compass of the Suns Perigaean is 11889541 Leagues, of the Suns Apogaean 13131410 Leagues.

The Compass of the Firmament, as to its greater Circles; for Example, the Aequator is 151184000 Leagues, from which Number (ac­cording to the Precepts of Geometry) may be collected the Concave Superficies of the Firma­ment, or Capacity of the whole World; and this Capacity however thus slupendiously great, if [...]ed up with little Sands, the number thereof will yet not consist of above 50 Figures, as according to Archimedes may be easily made out by the triple Rule of Proportion, which is the proper Subject of Geometry.

The Substance and Motion of the Stars.

PHilosophers are of Opinion, that the Stars are of the same Substance with the Hea­vens, in which they are, yet differ as to their thickness of Body, being thereby capable to receive and retain their borrowed Light of the Sun, and by that means become visible unto us in the Nights, when the Light of the Sun is de­parted from our Horizon.

These fixed Stars have no other Motion than the Heaven in which they are placed; yet sometimes seem nearer the Meridian than at other times, and the reason is, because of the several Motions of the Firmament, in which they are placed. But the Planets change their place; yet not by their own Motions, but only through the Motion of the Heaven, in which they are fixed.

Of the Coelestial Motions, and their various Af­fections.

WE come to treat of the various Aspects of the Stars, and of their swiftness in Motion, and of their [...]ising and setting.

These Aspects are certain Habitudes, or Dispo­sitions of the Planets under the Zodiack, from whence certain particular Effects in nature are [Page 86] [...] [Page 87] [...] [Page 88] [...] [Page 89] [...] [Page 90] produc'd; the principal of these Aspects are five, which this Figure represents.

[figure]

10

The first is the Synodos, or Conjunction; that is, when two Planets are both under some De­gree of the Zodiack.

The second is the Hexagon, Sextile, or Sex­angular Aspect; that is to say, when two Planets are distant from each other a sixth part of the Zodiack, or two Dodecatemories. 20

The third is a Tetragon, Quadrat, or Qua­drangular Aspect, that is, when they are distant from each other three Dodecatemories.

The fourth is a Trigon, or Triangular Aspect, when they are distant four Dodecatemories.

The fifth and last is Opposition, or a Diametrical Aspect; that is, when they are distant from one another six Dodecatemories, being the Interval of six Signs.

Note, that a Planet is said to be Exalted when 30 it is in that Sign with which it exerciseth its greatest vertue; to which Exaltation of a Pla­net, is opposed its debility, that is, when it is in that Sign with which it exerciseth its least vertue.

Now as to the swiftness of the Coelestial Moti­ons; The slower Motion is that by which the Stars are moved from West to East, contrary to the rapid Motion of the Primum Mobile, as the Ancients term it. And thus the Stars of 40 the Firmament are moved according to the order of the Signs under the Zodiack of the Primum Mobile, that they do not finish their Period till after the expiration of about 28800 Years, which course of time is by some called the Platonick Year.

Now as to the Planets, or Wandring Stars: The Sun runs through the Zodiack in 365 Days, 5 Hours, and 48 Minutes. Whence we may note.50

First, That the Sun daily advances under the Ecliptick about one Degree; and that hereupon he marks out new Points, in the Horizon, both rising and setting; and that he thus moves gradually from one Tropick to the other by Spiral Lines, and by Circles which they call Parallels, such as are 60 described in these Figures. And of these Parallels, some are Northern, and some Southern, which taking their beginning from the Aequator, begin also to be numbred from thence.

[figure]

[figure]

[figure]

Secondly, That the Sun spends 87 Days in passing through the Northern Signs, and then becomes Apogaean; whereas in the Southern he is Perigaean, in which he stays not above 178 Days.

Thirdly, That the Sun thus ascending and de­scending from one Solstice to another, describes about 182 Parallels, according to the number of Days in which he runs that Course. And al­though these Parallels are not altogether Circles, but Sphaeres, yet because there is no sensible error in them, they are wont nevertheless to be called Circles, and amongst them the Tropicks and Aequator are numbred.

Fourthly, That the Suns Apogaeum is found to be about the 7th Degree of Cancer, whence it advances by little and little towards the follow­ing Signs, and that after this manner it runs through the whole Zodiack in the space of about 21000 Years. And this is collected from thence, that in the time of Hipparchus it was about the 5th Degree of Gemini. Observing therefore the proportion of time in which it hath advanc'd so many Degrees, it is easie to conclude how much it proceeds further almost every Year.

Fifthly, That the Moon finishes her Course through the Zodiack in 27 Days, 7 Hours, and 43 Minutes; so that vulgarly the Course of the Moon each Day is computed to be 13 Degrees, and some odd Minutes; in which Course there are to be observed in the Moon (both Increasing and Decreasing) several Phases. On the first Day, which is her Congress, or Conjunction with the Sun, she is void of Light, and is therefore called Luna silens, and is then in her Apogaeum. On the fourth Day, having a Sextile Aspect in a middle Longitude, she becomes Corniculate, or Horned. On the 7th Day, being in her Peri­gaeum, or Quadrat Aspect, she is called Dividua, or Half-Moon. On the 11th Day she is in her Trine Aspect, and repeats her middle Longitude, being on either side Gibbous. On the 15th Day she becomes again Apogaean, and is in her Dia­metrical Aspect, which is commonly termed Op­position; and this makes the Plenilunium, or Full Moon: From which Full Moon, going back she repeats the same Aspects in a Retrograde order, turning her Horns towards the West, and ap­pearing in the Morning; whereas on the contrary Increasing, she was visible in the Evening, and turn'd her Horns Eastwards; for the Illuminated part of the Moon is always towards the Sun, as is to be seen by this Figure.

[figure]

The Swiftness of the Diurnal Motion is more or less, according to the Magnitude of the Cir­cle made by this or that Stars Motion; and the computation of this Velocity is made by divi­ding the number of Leagues contained in the said Circuit by [...]4; for the Quotient will shew how many Leagues are hourly finish'd: As for [Page 91] Example, According to the above-mentioned computation of the intire Circuits, the Moon in her Per [...]gaeum hourly finishes about 23230 Leagues, in her Apogaean about 27447.

So the Sun in his least distance from the Earth dispatches about 494564; in his Apogaeum, or greatest distance, about 547142 in an Hour.

So likewise the Stars of the Firmament, to­wards the Aequator, compass in one Hour about 6299333 Leagues, and in one Minute above 10 104988; that is, generally about such and such Numbers, omitting those Fractions allowed to belong to all, or most of them.

It is to be understood, that all Astronomers do not consent in these Measures, partly because the Measure of a League is different in several parts of the World, and some Measure by Miles, which also differ; to which may be added the Errors possible to be made through Ignorance, however the Principles upon which Skilful A­stronomers 20 build their Operations, agree in the main.

Seventhly, The beginning and end of Coelestial Motion above the Horizon, is called Rising and Setting; for the Sun (when it ascends above the Horizon) is said to rise to all that live in the He­misphaere above; on the contrary, when it sinks beneath the Horizon it is said to be set.

Now Ortive, and Occasive Latitude, is the distance of that Horizontal Point in which on 30 any Day sought, the Sun Rises or Sets from the Aequinoctial Point, in which the Horizon is cut by the Aequator.

The Rising or Setting of any of the Signs of the Zodiack, is properly called by Astronomers, Ascent, or Descent. The Ascent, or Ascension of any Sign, is some part of the Aequinectial Circle, or Aequator, reckoned from the beginning of Aries, which ascends above the Horizon, together with a certain Arch of the Zodiack, or Eclip­tick, 40 which (in respect of the parts of the Zo­diack) is either Right Ascension, that is, when more Degrees arise from the Aequator than from the Ecliptick; or Oblique, that is, when fewer Degrees arise from the Aequator than from the Ecliptick; and so proportionably of the Right, and Oblique Descension.

Besides this Astronomical Rising and Setting of the Sun, and other Stars here treated of, there is another sort, which being much used by the 50 Poets is therefore called the Poetical Rising and Setting, and this is threefold; viz. First, Cosmical; that is, when any Sign of the Zodiack riseth with the Sun. Secondly, Chronical; that is, when a Star riseth at the time of the Suns setting, when as Cosmical and Chronical Setting are quite con­trary. Thirdly, Heliacal, Rising or Setting; for a Star riseth Heliacally when it becomes conspi­cuous at the Suns setting, which could not before, by reason of the brightness of the Suns Beams; 60 and sets Heliacally, when being visible before, it becomes obscure by the Beams of the Rising Sun.

Of the Principal Stars, and into how many Constel­lations they are divided.

AStronomers do take notice of 1377 Stars, of which said number (according to Tycho and other Ancient Astronomers) 1241 appear in our Horizon, and 136 about the South Pole. The knowledge of which said Stars were found out by certain proper Instruments made for the taking their Latitude and Longitude.

These Stars were afterwards reduced into Constellations by the Egyptians, alloting such a number of Stars together as best represented the Thing, or Image they appropriated to it. Of these Constellations there are 62, of which 12 are the Signs of the Zodiack, 27 more in the South Hemisphaere, and 23 in the North.

The Names of the Constellations are as fol­loweth, as they are taken notice of by Sir Jonas Moore, deceased; and first with those in the Zo­diack, which are 12, viz.

ARIES, which contains 19 Stars, of which the most noted is that in his Ear, being of the third Magnitude.

TAVRVS, which contains 48 Stars, one of which is in the Eye, being of the first Magnitude, and called Aldebaran; another in the tip of his Horn, being of the second Magnitude; and this great Constellation hath two smaller belonging to it, the first the Plejades, or Seven Stars, being in his Neck; and the second called Hyades, being Five Stars near his Eye.

GEMINI, which contains 34 Stars, of which three are of the second Magnitude, one in the Head, called Castor, another in the Neck, called Pollux, and the third in the Foot.

CANCER contains 32 Stars, two being of the third Magnitude, the rest of the fourth, fifth, and sixth.

LEO, containing 43 Stars, two of which are of the first Magnitude, viz. Ragulus, or the Lions Heart, and Cauda-Leonis in the Tail; also two of the second Magnitude, viz. one on the top of his Loins, and another in the middle of the three in his Neck.

VIRGO, which contains 45 Stars, one of which is of the first Magnitude in her Left hand, called Spica Virginis.

LIBRA, which contains 14 Stars, of which two are of the second Magnitude, the one in the end of the Handle, called Lanx Septentrionalis, and the other in the Southern Scale, called Lanx Meridionalis.

SCORPIO contains 35 Stars, one of which is of the first Magnitude, being in the Body, and called Cor Scorpionis.

SAGITTARIVS contains 30 Stars, two of which are of the second Magnitude, the one in the Knee, and the other in the Heel of the right Leg.

CAPRICORNVS contains 28 Stars, but none of the first or second Magnitude.

AQVARIVS contains 42 Stars, but none likewise of any considerable Magnitude. And,

PISCES, contains 36 Stars, but none of the first or second Magnitude.

The Constellations on the South side of the Zo­diack, are

ORION, A signal Constellation of 56 Stars, one of which is of the first Magnitude in his left Shoulder, and another in his right Foot also of the said Magnitude, called Rigel; also four of the second Magnitude, of which one in 10 his Shoulder, and three in his Girdle, called the Yard-wand; there are also two others in his Shoulders, two in his Feet, three in his Yard-wand, and three in the Sword.

CETVS, or the Whale, contain 29 Stars, two of which are of the second Magnitude, the one near his Mouth, and the other near his Tail.

ERIDANVS, or the River, contains 44 Stars, one of which is of the first Magnitude, called Enar; the rest are all small.20

CANIS MAJOR, or the Great Dog, con­tains 19 Stars, one of which is of the first Mag­nitude, being in his Mouth, and called Sirius; also one of the second Magnitude near his left Knee; the rest are small ones.

CANIS MINOR, or the Little Dog, hath 10 Stars, one of which is in his Belly, called Procyon, and of the first Magnitude; the rest are small.

LEPVS, or the Hare, contains 13 small 30 Stars.

ARGO NAVIS, or the Ship, hath 51 Stars, one of which being in the Rudder, called Canopus, is of the first Magnitude; also seven Stars of the second Magnitude up and down in it.

CRATER, the Goblet, a small Constellation of 11 Stars.

CENTAVRVS contains 41 Stars, two of which are of the first Magnitude, the one in his left Thigh, and the other in the extremity of his 40 right Foot.

HYDRA, or the Serpent, contains 29 Stars, one of which of the first Magnitude, called Al­phard, being in the third Wreath, and sometimes called Cor Hydrae.

CORVVS, a small Constellation of 8 little Stars.

LVPVS, a Constellation of 20 small Stars.

The ALTAR, or a Constellation of 6 small Stars. 50

The SOVTHERN FISH, a Constellation of 12 Stars, of which one is of the first Magnitude; the rest all small.

The SOVTHERN CROWN, a Constella­tion of 13 small Stars.

There are also 12 Constellations more towards the South Pole, as Piscis volans, the Peacock, In­dus, Hydras, Triangulum, Chamelion, Toucan, Apis, Apis Indica, Gros, Doradu, and Phoenix.60

The Constellations on the North side of the Zodi­ack; are

THE GREAT BEAR, or Vrsa Major, contains 35 Stars, of which 7 are of the second Magnitude, 3 of the third, 12 of the fourth, 8 of the fifth, and 5 of the sixth. Of the 4 that make up the Wain, that in his Shoulder is called Dubbe, and the Thill-Horse, Alioth, be­tween which and the Pole-Star lieth the Pole.

The LESSER BEAR, or Vrsa Minor, contains 10 Stars, of which two are of the second Magnitude, three of the fourth one of the fifth, and three of the sixth. This Constellation is next the Pole, and therefore called the Pole-Star; as also the Sea-Star, as being of great use to Ma­riners. In this Constellation, as also in that of the Great Bear there is a Wain, called Charles's Wain, each composed of 7 Stars, 4 of which are for the Wain, and 3 for the Horses, the brightest in the Wain being called by Sea-men, the brightest of the Guards.

DRACO, or the Dragon, contains 35 Stars, lying betwixt the two Bears, and noted for that it hath Stars in every one of the 12 Signs, as also by reason the Pole of the Ecliptick lieth in the midst of this Constellation:

ANDROMEDA, or the Chained Woman, freed and married to Perseus, contains 27 Stars, of which three are of the second Magnitude, one in her Head, another in her Leg, and the third in her Girdle.

CASSIOPEA, the Mother of Andromeda sitting in her Chair, contains 28 Stars, the prin­cipal of which is in her Breast, being a bright Star of the third Magnitude, and called Sche­der.

PERSEVS, the Son of Dance, who cleared Andromeda, and brought away Medusa's Head. It contains 42 Stars, of which two are of the second Magnitude, the one in his left Side, cal­led Algenib; and the other in Medusa's Head, called Algol.

CEPHVS, an Ethiopian King, contains 21 Stars, but none of any considerable Magni­tude.

HERCVLES with his Club, watching the Dragon, contains 62 Stars, of which 9 are of the third Magnitude, amongst which that in his Head, called Ras Algethi is of chiefest note.

AVRIGA, the Carter, contains 40 Stars, of which one is in his Back of the first Magnitude, called the Goat Star, Hircus, and Capella.

BOOTES, the Keeper of the Bear, contains 32 Stars, of which one is of the first Magnitude betwixt his Legs, called Arcturus, being a noted Star.

SERPENTARIVS, that holds the Ser­pent, contains 30 Stars, of which one is in his Head, of the second Magnitude.

PEGASVS, or the Winged Horse, contains 23 Stars, of which four are of the second Mag­nitude, and that in the Tip of the Wing is called Markab; these four Stars make a Square.

The NORTHERN CROWN, or Ari­adne's Crown, contains 21 Stars, of which one is of the second Magnitude, called the bright Star in the Crown.

The SERPENT contains 35 Stars, of which one is in his Neck, being of the second Magnitude.

The HARP, or Vultur Cadens, contains 15 Stars, of which one is of the first Magnitude, called Lucida-Lyra, or the bright Star in the Harp.

[Page 93] SAGITTA, or the Dart, contains 8 Stars, none of any considerable bigness.

The SWAN contains 40 Stars, of which one is of the second Magnitude near the Tail.

The LESSER HORSE contains 4 Stars of the second Magnitude.

The EAGLE, or Flying Vulture, contains 27 Stars, of which one is of the second Magni­tude in its Neck, called Aquila, or Vultur volans.

The TRIANGLE contains 6 small Stars. 10

The DOLPHIN contains 10 small Stars.

BERENIC ES HAIR contains 13 small Stars.

COR CAROLI, a small Constellation of three Stars, newly discovered by Sir Charles Scarbo­rough, and so called in memory of King Charles the First.

Besides these Constellations aforesaid, there is the Milky-way fit to be taken notice of, described on the Globe, appearing to the Eye like a small 20 Cloud, or White-way; but if viewed with a good long Telescope, are found to be an infinite num­ber of small Stars close set together.

The Magnitude of the STARS, with their Pro­portions to the Earth.

THe Magnitude of the Stars appears by comparing the one with the other; for those of the first Maguitude are most considerable,30 and give a greater Light than those of the se­cond, and those of the second more than those of the third, and so on.

The Magnitude of the Stars compared to that of the Earth bears this proportion; Those of the first Magnitude are 107 times greater than the Earth, those of the second 90, those of the third 72, those of the fourth 54, those of the fifth 36, and those of the sixth 18 times bigger than the Earth. 40

To find the Latitude of the fixed Stars.

THe Latitude of the Stars, is the distance of any Star from the Ecliptick, so that those Stars that are distant from it Northernly have North Latitude; and those that are Southernly, or be­twixt the South Pole and the Ecliptick, have South Latitude, according to this Figure. 50

[figure]

60

AB, is the Ecliptick.

CD, the Poles of the Ecliptick.

EF, the Poles of the World.

CAD, CGD, CHD, CID, CKD, and CLD, are the six Circles of Position, that divide the Firmament into 12 equal parts; by which it is known under what Sign any Star is situated; for the Circles of Position pass through the be­ginning of every Sign, according to the Figure.

The Latitude of a Star is reckoned from the Ecliptick towards either of the Poles, so as the Arch MN, is the Latitude of the Star at M. The Longitude of a Star is to be reckoned in the Ecliptick, from the first point of Aries to the Star, according to the Succession of the Signs, viz. from Aries to Taurus, and so forwards.

The Longitude of the Stars.

THe Longitude of the Stars, is the distance of any Star from the Vernal Equinox, or first Point or beginning of Aries, and so forwards: Or to define it otherwise, It is an Arch of the Ecliptick, comprehended between the first Point of Aries and the Circle that passes through the Body of the Stars and Poles of the Zodiack, as appears by the aforegoing Figure.

The Declination of the Stars.

THis is the same as the Declination of the Sun, viz. the distance of any Star from the Aequinoctial, as well Southwards or North­wards.

The Stars change in Declination as well as in Longitude, so that the newest Tables should be made use of.

The Right Ascension of the Sun and Stars, also the Oblique Ascension, and Ascentional difference.

THe Right Ascension, is the Point, or Degree and Minute of the Aequinoctial, which comes with the Sun or Star to the Horizon, and that riseth or goeth down with it in a right Sphaere.

The Oblique Ascension, is the Point or Degree of the Aequinoctial, that riseth or goeth down with the Center of the Sun, or Star in an Oblique Sphaere.

The Ascential Difference, is the difference be­twixt the Right and Oblique Ascension; that is to say, the number of Degrees contained betwixt the Point of the Aequinoctial, that riseth with the Center of the Sun or Star; and that Point of the Aequinoctial that comes to the Meridian, with the Center of the Sun, or same Star.

To find the Suns place in the Zodiack.

THe true place of the Sun, or any other Pla­net, is that Sign, or Degree of the Sign, to which it answers in a direct Line, which is drawn directly from the Center of the World through the Center of the said Planet to the Zodiack, or Ecliptick.

Now to find out the true place of any Planet; As for Example, of the Sun; first, the Motion of [Page 94] the Longitude is to be considered, whose begin­ning is drawn from the Vernal Aequinoctial of the Primum Mobile. Next, regard is to be had of that motion of Longitude, by which the Sun makes his Progress from his Apogaeum to the following Signs; for then from the fore-mentio­ned motion of Longitude is subtracted the Arch of that Interval, which is the distance of the Apogaeum from the Aequinoctial, and the Remain­der is called the Suns Anomaly; which being di­gested 10 into Astronomical Tables, declares the Pro­staphaeresis to be subtracted from the middle motion of Longitude, so long as the Sun con­verses in that Hemisphaere, which is extended from the Apogaeum to the Perigaeum: But when he is conversant in the opposite Hemisphaere by repeating the Apogaeum, then it is to be added to the middle Motion, to find the true place of the Sun.

Besides this, there is another more common 20 way for the ready finding the Suns place. First, remember what are the Signs proper to every Month, although the Sun enters not into the said Signs till towards the latter end of the said Months; for except Pisces (which he enters on the 19th of February) he enters into none of the rest until after the 20th Day.

These things thus premised, the Problem is thus resolved: Number the Degrees of the Eclip­tick according to the Day given from the time of 30 the Sun's Ingress into such a Sign, and you will come so near the matter that there will be hardly one Days difference.

To find the Sun's Declination for any Day given.

SEek the Sun's place in the Zodiack according to the preceding Problem; then apply that Part, or Degree of the Ecliptick to the Meridian, and reckon the Degrees of that Arch, which ex­tends 40 from the Aequator to the part of the Sun assigned, and the Problem is resolved.

There is also another more common way of finding the Sun's Declination, which is as follows: The Altitude of the Aequator being known when the Meridian Hour arrives, make use of the A­stronomical Quadrant, directing its Dioptra to­wards the Sun; If it points at an equal Degree with the Aequators Declination, 'tis to be conclu­ded that it declines not from the Aequator. If 50 it makes more Degrees, as in the Summer, or fewer, as in the Winter, that difference is the very Degree of the Sun's Declination. For Ex­ample, On the 22th of June (in any City where the Aequator is Elevated 42 Degrees) I find in the Instrument the Sun's Meridian Elevation to be 65 ½ Degrees; hence it is to be concluded, that the Sun then declines 23 ½ Degrees, which is the difference between 65 ½ Degrees, and 42, and so proportionally of the rest. But for the more 60 ready finding out the Sun's Declination in any Degree of any Sign whatsoever, these following Tables are inserted. In the first Column whereof the Degrees of the Signs are only set down; in the rest over against it are mark'd the Degrees and Minutes of the Sun's Declination for each Degree of the Signs.

The Knowledge of the Sun's Declination is highly necessary in many respects, particularly in the making of Dials, and describing the Arches of the Signs, and determining of the Al­titude of the Pole; where every Day at Noon it useth to be sought from that place which the Sun obtains in the Zodiack, and is of great use also in Navigation.

A Table of the Sun's Declination.
Signs of the DegreesIn Aries, & LibraIn Taurus, & Scorpio.In Gemini, & Sagittarius
 Deg. Min.Deg. Min.Deg. Min.
10 011 3020 12
00 2411 5120 25
20 4812 1220 37
31 1212 3320 49
41 3612 5321 0
52 013 1321 11
62 2313 3321 22
72 4713 5321 32
83 1114 1321 42
93 3514 3221 51
103 5814 522 0
114 2215 1022 9
124 4515 2822 17
135 915 4722 25
145 3216 522 32
155 5516 3322 39
166 1916 4022 46
176 4216 5022 52
187 517 1422 57
197 2817 3123 3
207 5017 4723 8
218 1318 323 12
228 3518 1923 15
238 5818 3423 19
249 2018 4923 22
259 4119 423 24
2610 419 1823 26
2710 2619 3223 28
2810 4719 4623 29
2911 919 5923 30
3011 1020 1223 30

[Page 95]

Another Table of the Sun's Declination.
Signs of the Degrees.In Cancer, & Capricorn.In Leo, and Aquarius.In Virgo, & Pisces.
 Deg. Min.Deg. Min.Deg. Min.
023 3020 1211 30
123 3019 5911 19
223 2919 4610 47 10
323 2819 3210 26
423 2619 1810 14
523 2419 49 42
623 2218 499 20
723 1918 348 58
823 1518 198 35
923 1218 38 13
1023 817 477 50 20
1123 317 317 28
1222 5717 147 5
1322 5216 576 42
1422 4616 406 19
1522 3916 335 55
1622 3216 [...]5 32
1722 2515 475 9
1822 1715 284 45
1922 915 104 22 30
2022 014 513 58
2121 5114 328 35
2221 4214 138 11
2321 3213 532 47
2421 2213 332 23
2521 1113 132 0
2621 012 531 36
2720 4912 331 12
2820 3712 120 48 40
2920 2511 510 24
3020 1211 300 0

To find out the Altitude or Elevation of the Sun, or any other Star every Hour.

USe either the Astronomical Quadrant, or the Astrolabe rightly disposed. Direct the Di­optra towards the Object, or receive through its 50 Pins the Radius; then you will see how many Degrees the Dioptra cuts, by reckoning them from the Horizontal side.

Note, first, That the greatest Elevation or Al­titude of the Sun, or any Star is Meridian, that is, when it comes to the Meridian, or Mid-Circles of Heaven. Secondly, That the Altitude of the said Star is either greater or lesser, according as it is in that part of the Meridian, which is more or less distant from the Horizon. 60 But for the finding out this Meridian Altitude of the Sun, or Stars, let the Meridian Line be rightly drawn in any Horizontal Plain, by the help whereof the Meridian Constellation may exactly be found. Then near that Meridian Line, the Back of the Astrolabe, or any other fit Instru­ment of that kind being applied, the Alhidad will point out the Degree of Elevation above the Horizon; and this will be the Magnitude of that Arch which extends from the place of the Star to the Horizon.

To set forth the Face of Heaven, and what Stars are above the Horizon, and what part of Hea­ven each of those Stars possesseth.

MAke use of the Astrolabe, and apply the Degree of the Ecliptick in which the Sun is upon the Almucantarath, or Circle of Elevation agreeing to the Altitude, which answers to the given Hour; then it will appear what Constella­tion is East, and what West.

Note, That the Degree, or Sign, and part of the Zodiack which is then found at the Horizon, is called by Caloulators of Nativiti [...]s, The As­cendant Degree, the Angle of the Orient, and the Horoscope: The part opposite to it is called the Angle Occident: That part of the Meridian Line is called the Angle at the Mid-Heaven. Lastly, The part opposite to it is the Angle of the Earth, or the Degree of Midnight. These four parts of the World Astrologers call the four Angles of Heaven.

To find the Altitude, or Elevation of the Aequator above the Horizon.

AS it is to be supposed, that they only have the Aequator Direct, or Right, who live under it, and have the Poles of the World at the Horizon. But it inclines, and becomes Oblique to us in such a proportion, as we recede from it, so that if we were distant from it; for Example, 40 Degrees, so much of Obliquity, or Inclination it hath towards the Horizon; but so many De­grees as it is distant in Obliquity, or Inclination from the Horizon, so much it is said to be Ele­vated above it.

Now what, and how great this Elevation is at any set time, is the Question at present and it may be commodiously determin'd upon Aequinoctial Days, if at the very Hour of Noon the Instrument being disposed to the Meridian Line, you receive through the little Sights the Rays of the Sun then in the Aequator; for the Dioptra, according to the Line of Direction, will mark out the Degree of that Elevation, by numbring from the side of the Instrument. In brief, It is in effect but the same thing, as the finding the Sun's Me­ridian Altitude in the time of the Equinox.

Moreover in the time of Summer, or Winter Solstice the way of this Invention is very facil, and obvious; for the Suns Declination being known to be 23 Degrees and an half, it is but subtract­ing them from the Degrees of the Summer Solstice and the Question is resolved; for Example, On the 22 of June, at the hour of Noon, the Sun be­ing in the Tropick of Cancer, or in the first Degree, of that Sign, gives in the Instrument 64 Degrees and 30 Minutes of Elevation; from which 23 De­grees and 30 Minutes being subtracted, there will remain 41 Degrees, the Altitude of the Aequator in the said City.

To find the Distance of the Vertical Point from the Aequator.

THe Aequators Elevation being found, the Complement thereof to 90 Degrees gives the sought distance: For Example; If in the said City, the Alitude of the Aequator be 40 ½ De­grees, it will follow that the Vertical is distant from the Aequator 49 ½ Degrees. 10

To find the Poles Altitude.

THis is very Easy to be done, from what hath been said, for the Suns Meridian Altitude in either of the Aequinoxes being granted, you have consequently the distance of the Vertical Point from the Aequator, and the Meridian Lati­tude. And this distance, and Latitude is equal (as hath been said) to the Elevation of the Pole; 20 or otherwise, is equal to the Arch of the Meri­dian plac'd between the Elevated Pole of the World, and the Horizon; so that to have the Altitude of the Pole, the Suns Meridian Altitude is to be sought either by adding or subtracting the Degrees of Declination, if it be at the time of either of the Aequinoxes.

But this is to be noted, that this way the Alti­tude of the Pole is only indirectly found, neither 30 can it be directly had in it self, since no Star is visible to us at those Points of Heaven, which are called the Poles: so that Geographers use to apply themselves to those Stars that are nearest the Pole, especially to that which is called the Pole Star to judge thereof; And thus they pro­ceed, In the first place, the Meridian Altitude of that Star is sought when it arives at the Meridi­an Circle; Secondly, 12 hours after when it comes to the opposite part of the Meridian, then its Al­titude 40 being sought again, the difference of those Meridian Altitudes is to be considered, which done, the half of the difference found is to be added to the lesser Meridian Altitude to find the Poles Altitude; For Example, If one of the Stars nearest the Pole be found in its highest Meridian Altitude to be 60 Degrees, and in its lowest only 40, the Difference of these Altitudes is 20, and the half of that number 10, which added to 40 makes 50, whence we infer that the Pole is then Elevated 50 Degrees.

To find the Longitude.

THis is a troublesome thing and cannot be very exactly performed, the best way is by Lunar Eclipses, for we must suppose the dist­ance of Longitude; for Example, Between one Town and another to be the distance of their pro­per Meridians. The better therefore to understand what distance of Longitude Rome and Paris have one from another, there ought to be observed both at Rome, and Paris, by able Astronomers, some certain part of any Lunar Eclipse; as perhaps the beginning, but rather the middle. Then the business is to know at what Hour this hapned at Rome, and at what Hour at Paris; for since the Ingress of the Moon within the shadow of the Earth appears at the same time throughout all the whole Hemisphaere, and yet the Hours differ with the Meridians, then it being found the be­ginning of the Eclipse was at 9 of the Clock, and at Paris at 10. It must thence be concluded that Paris is distant from Rome the Longitude of 15 Meridians, as passing through 15 several De­grees of the Aequator, there going (as before taken notice of) 15 Degrees of the Aequator to one Hour.

But to Conclude, It must be understood, that the Longitude, and Latitude which is now treated of, is that which is properly called Mun­dane, or Geographical; for in Astronomy, as hath been already observed, the Latitude properly spoken of, is the Latitude of a Star, which is its distance from the Ecliptick, or the Arch between the Ecliptick, and the true place of the said Star: So likewise Longitude is the distance thereof from the beginning of Aries, or the Vernal Aequi­noctial Point towards the Signs of Taurus, Cancer, and those that follow; or as some express it, an Arch of the Zodiack, drawn from the beginning of Aries through those Signs.

ASTROLOGY.

ASTROLOGY is the Art of fore-telling things to come, and of giving Judgment of Human Affairs and Revolutions, by the mutual Aspects of the Planets, and their dis­position towards any of the Twelve Signs of the Zodiack.

The Twelve Signs are thus Named and Characte­rized.

10 Aries.Note: Taurus.Note: Gemini.Note: Cancer.Note: Leo.Note: Virgo.Note:

Libra.Note: Scorpio.Note: Sagitary.Note: Capricorn.Note: Aquarius.Note: Pisces.Note:

The Division, Nature, and quality of the Twelve Signs.

♈ ♌ ♐ are fiery, hot, and dry, and are there­fore 20 called the fiery Triplicity.

♉ ♍ ♑ are cold, dry, and earthly, and are called the Earthly Triplicity.

♊ ♎ ♒ are airy, hot, and moist, which make the Airy Triplicity.

♋ ♏ ♓ are cold, moist, and watry, and are named the Watry Triplcity.

The Signs are again divided into Moveable, Fixed, and Common; the Moveable are ♈, ♋, ♎, ♍, the Fixed ♉, ♌, ♏, ♒; the Common ♊, ♍, ♐, ♓. They are called Moveable, because that when the Sun 30 enters those Signs, the season and temperature of the Weather soon changeth; Fixed, because when the Sun enters them, the temper of the Air is more fixed and stable; And lastly, they are called Common, because they partake both of the preceding and consequent Sign.

But herein note, that the Moveable Signs, be­hold each other with □, the Fixed behold each other with □, and the Common behold each other with □. The Fiery Signs behold each other 40 with △, the Earthy Signs behold each other with △; so likewise the Air and Watry, &c. Which this Table following will inform you more at large.

The Table
  * *
Dexter Dexter Dexter 
         
Sinister Sinister; Sinister  
Dexter Dexter Dexter
         50
Sinister Sinister Sinister 
Dexter Dexter Dexter 
         
Sinister  Sinister Sinister 
DexterDexter Dexter 
         
Sinister Sinister Sinister 

The use of this Table is very easie, as thus; you may observe Aries is in Sextile Dexter to Aquarius, and Sextile Sinister to Gemini; and in Quartile Dexter to Capricorn, and Quartile Sini­ster to Cancer; in Trine Dexter to Sagittary, and Trine Sinister to Leo, and his Opposition to Libra. Observe the like in the rest; where note a Pla­net in Aries beholds another Planet, if he be in the same Signs, with the like Aspects, so that they be within the half of each others Orb; as thus, a Planet in Aries beholds another in Aqua­rius with Sextile Dexter, and so of the rest.

The Names and Characters of the Planets.

  • ♄ Saturn.
  • ♃ Jupiter.
  • ♂ Mars.
  • Sol, or the Sun.
  • ♀ Venus.
  • ☿ Mercury.
  • Luna, or the Moon.
  • ☊ Dragons Head.
  • ☋ Dragons Tail.

Of the Aspects.

BEsides the Five common Aspects mentioned in Astronomy, and of the general use there­in, there are several others added by the most Famous Astrologers, as very much conducing to their Art, so that 'tis thought expedient to joyn this compleat Table of them all in general.

A Table of the Aspects.

  • Conjunction, in the same Sign and Degree. S. D.
  • SS Semisextile, when Planets are distant 30 Degrees, or—1 00
  • Sextile, when they are distant 60 Deg. or 2 00
  • Q Quintile, when distant 72 Degrees, or 2 12
  • Quartile, when they are distant 90 Deg. or 3 00
  • Td Tredicile, when they be distant 108 De­grees, or—3 18
  • Trine, when distant 120 Degrees, or 4 00
  • Bq Biquintile, when distant 144 Degrees, or 4 14
  • Vc Quincunx, when they are asunder 150 Degrees, or—5 00
  • Opposition, when distant 180 Degrees, or 6 00

Of the Division of the 12 Houses.

IN the next place, I think it most convenient (before I teach the young Student how to erect a Figure of Heaven) to shew him the di­vision of the 12 Houses of Heaven.

The whole Sphaere of Heaven is divided into four equal Parts by the Meridian and Horizon, and every one of these Parts or Quadrants are divided into three other Parts, according to other Circles, drawn by Points of [Page 98] Sections of the aforesaid Meridian and Horizon; so the whole is divided into Twelve equal Parts, which the Astrologers call Houses, or Mansions, taking their beginning from the East.

The first Part or Quadrant is described from the Angle of the East to the Mid-Heaven, viz. from the Line of the first House to the Line of the tenth House, and contains the twelfth, ele­venth, and tenth Houses. It is called the Orien­tal, Vernal, Ascending, Masculine, Sanguine Infant 10 Quarter, verging to the South.

The second Quadrant is from the Cusp of the Mid-Heaven, to the Cusp of the seventh House, and contains the ninth, eighth, and seventh Houses; and is called the Meridian, Estival, Fe­minine, Touthful, Cholerick Quarter, verging to the West.

The third Quadrant, is from the Cusp of the seventh House, to the Cusp of the fourth House, and contains the sixth, fifth, and fourth Houses; 20 and is called, Occidental, Autumnal, Masculine, Melancholick, Manhood, Cold and Dry, verging to the North.

The fourth Quadrant, is from the Cusp of the fourth House, or Imum Caeli, to the Cusp of the first House, and contains the third, second, and first Houses. Its called, Northern, Feminine, Old Age, of the Nature of Winter, Phlegmatick, verg­ing East.

The first, tenth, seventh and fourth Houses are 30 called Angles; the eleventh, second, eighth and fifth, Succedents; and third, twelfth, sixth and ninth, Cadents. The Angles most powerful, the Succedents next in force, the Cadents weak: The Succedents are next to the Angles; the Cadents next to the Succedents.

1. 10. 7. 411. 5. 2. 89. 3. 12. 6
Angles.Succedents.Cadents.

40

Note, That the first House is preferred before the tenth, and the tenth before the seventh, &c.

How to Erect a Figure of Heaven.

SInce I have shewed you the division of the Twelve Houses, it is also requisite to shew the use of them, and how to erect a Figure. First, draw the Figure following; and note that the Twelve empty places are the Twelve Houses, as 50 the Figures standing on the Cusp or beginning of each House doth inform you, and the vacant place in the middle may note to you the Earth, which is surrounded with the Heavens; in which it is usual to write the Year, Month, Day, and Hour when the Figure was made. Thus have you a Figure of the Heavens and Earth in plano.

Note, Where you see the Figure 1 placed, that is called the Cusp of the first House, or Ascendent, 60 the Figure 2 shews you the Cusp of the second House, and the Figure 3 the Cusp of the third House, &c. and so of the rest.

[figure]

Having drawn your Blank Figure, then seek the place of the Sun in the Ephemeris; and ha­ving found the Suns place, then enter the Table of Houses, and in the Column of the Tenth House, find the Sign and Degree the Sun is in; and if you find not the just place of the Sun, then take the nearest to it, for many times there be odd Minutes adhering to his place; which if the odd Minute be above 30, then take the next whole Degree; but if under 30, you may reject them, and take the even Degree; and right a­gainst it in the Column towards the Left hand, entituled [Time from Noon] you have the time in Hours and Minutes of the Suns right Ascen­sions to be added to the time of the Hour and Minute you make your Figure for; and the Hours and Minutes thus added (if they be under 24 Hours) seek out in the Column of Time from Noon; but if they exceed 24 Hours, then cast away 24 Hours, and the Remainder seek out under the Column of Time from Noon, and right against it in the same Line you have the Signs, Degrees, and Minutes; to be placed upon the 10, 11, 12. 1, 2 and 3 Houses, so have you six of the Houses, the other six are easily found only by placing the same Degree and Minute of the opposite Sign on the opposite House; if you cannot tell what Signs are opposite to each other, look at the beginning of the Tract, and you may see that Aries is opposite to Libra, and Taurus is opposite to Scorpio, &c. Take example by that Figure at the beginning of the Ephemeris, when Sol enters Aries. Next you must learn to place the Planets in the Figure aright, as you may see in the same Figure; as thus, you may observe, Saturn being more Degrees than the Cusp of the fourth, is placed in the fourth; Jupiter being in fewer Degrees than the Cusp of the As­cendent, is placed above the Ascendent: the like Rule observe in all the rest, &c.

Here note, That the Figure of Sols entring Aries, is erected for London by the Table of Houses of 51 Degr. 32 Min. which is the Elevation of that place; but if you chance to be in ano­ther Elevation when you make your Figure, then take that Table of Houses which is nearest the Elevation you are in.

How to reduce the Ephemeris, and Suns declina­tion to any other Meridian.

FOrasmuch as the Suns Declination is of great use, I shall first shew an Example of that: Observe this, that a Table of Declination, or an Ephemeris made for any particular place, will not serve generally for all places, but only for such places as have the like, or near the same 10 Longitude. The reason is, because the Declination (or the Ephemeris) is calculated according to the true place of the Sun at Noon, at which time the Sun is upon the Meridian at that place for which the said Tables are made: But you must note, that the Sun doth not come to the Meridian in all places at a like time; although that in all places the Sun being upon the Meridian makes the Middle of the Day; but for every 15 De­grees difference of Longitude between any two 20 places, the Sun comes sooner or later to the Meridian by so many Hours: So that if a place be 15 Degrees to the Eastward of the place pre­fixed, then the Sun comes sooner to the Meri­dian by an Hour, and if it be 15 Degrees to the Westward, later by an Hour, and so consequently more or less, according to the difference of Lon­gitude; by which reason, in what Part of the World soever you be, you may work for the Declination of the Sun in that place by the pro­portional 30 parts of 24 Hours Declination to the Hour of difference in Longitude.

Note, That what is said of the Declination, by the same Rule you may reduce the Planets also to another Meridian.

Example.

SUppose you were in Brasilia, or in any other place Westward, the 10th of April, 1686.40 whose Meridian is distant from the Meridian of London to the Westward about 45 Degrees, which is three Hours of Time that the Sun comes to their Meridian later than here at London, where the Table and Ephemeris is made: For when it is Twelve of the Clock here, it is but Nine there, and being Noon there, it is Three of the Clock here; therefore to apply this Table to that place, I find the Declination for the Day 50 aforesaid under our Meridian to be a 11 Degr. 38 Min. at Noon, and by reason that when it is Twelve of the Clock at Brasilia, it is then at London three Hours past; therefore by the Rule of Proportion, I seek what Declination the Sun hath at Three of the Clock in the Afternoon, as followeth: I take the difference of Declination between the Day aforesaid and the next follow­ing, which is 20 Min. then I say by the Rule of Three, If 24 Hours give 20 Min. what gives 3 Hours, the time of the difference in Longitude? 60 Facit 2 Min. and 30 Seconds, which because the Declination increases I add to the number of the Day proposed: So I conclude the Declination of the Sun to be the 10th of April at Noon in the Kingdom of Brasilia 11 Degr. 40 Min. 30 Seconds. Do the like in the Planets that are direct; but to the Retrograde Planets and ☋, subtract their three Hours Motion from their places at Noon.

Again, the Day and time aforesaid in the Bay of St. Sebastian, whose Longitude is 58 Degr. to the Eastward of London; answering near to four Hours Time, shewing that the Sun comes sooner to the Meridian in the Bay of St. Sebastian by four Hours, than at London, by which reason the Declination is less there than at London, be­cause the Declination doth increase: For if the Declination did decrease, it would be more there than at London. And to know the Declination of the Sun in the Bay aforesaid, I take the difference betwixt the Declination of the 10th of April, and the Declination of the Day next before, being 20 Min. then I say, If 24 Hours give 20 Min. what do 4 Hours? Facit 3 Min. which deducted from 11 Deg. 38 Min. the Declination of the Sun the 10th of April aforesaid, at London, leaveth 11 Degr. 35 Min. the Declination of the Sun at Noon in the Bay of St. Sebastian, being that when it is Twelve of the Clock there, it is but Eight of the Clock at London, or in any place having the same Longitude. Do the like in the Planets that are Direct; but in the Ret [...]ograde Planets, and ☋, add their four Hours Motion to their places at Noon.

An Example in reducing of Aspects to other Me­ridians.

OBserve this as a general Rule, That if you add in Motion, you must subtract in A­spect; and if you subtract in Motion, you must add in Aspect.

In the first of the foregoing Examples, your difference of Meridians was three Hours to the Westward of London, and the Motion of three Hours was added to give you the true Degree and Minute of what was sought. The Day fol­lowing, which is the 10th of April, 1686. here at London we have a New Moon at 30 Min. past, at Noon subtract three Hours from that, and there Remains 9 Hours, 30 Min. which is the time of the ☌, or new Moon at Brasilia.

Again, In the second Example, your difference of Meridian was four Hours Eastward, and the four Hours Motion was subtracted to give the true Degree and Minute of what was sought for. Now for this ☌, or New Moon aforesaid, here I add 4 Hours to the time of the ☌ at London, which is 0 H. 30 Min. P. M. and that is 4 H. 30 Min. P. M. or Afternoon at St. Sebastian.

Herein note, That Astronomers begin their Day at Noon, so that One of the Clock Afternoon is their first Hour, Two of the Clock the second, and so forward; Six of the Clock the next Morning the 18th Hour, and Eleven of the Clock the 23th. Hour. This Rule you must observe in all Astro­nomical Calculations, and in your time when you erect Figures, for every Ephemeris is calculated to the Meridian of some particular place.

Of several Terms, Words of Art, and Accidents of the Planets.

APplication is, when two Planets draw to­wards each other by Body or Aspect; by Body, that is by Conjunction; by Aspect, that is by beholding each other from several Signs. And this happens three several ways.

First, When a Planet that is swift applies to 10 one more slow and ponderous, they being both Direct, as Mars in 10 deg. of Aries, and Mer­cury, five here, Mercury applies to the Conjun­ction of Mars.

The second Application is, when both Planets are Retrograde, as Mercury in 10 deg. of Aries, and Mars in 9 deg. of Aries, Mercury not being Direct until he hath made Conjunction with Mars. This is an ill application, and an Argu­ment of either suddenly perfecting, or breaking 20 off the business, according as the two Planets have signification.

The third Application is, when a Planet is Direct, and in fewer Degrees, and a Retrograde Planet in more Degrees of the Sign; as Mars being Direct in 15 deg. of Aries, and Mercury Retrograde in 17 deg. of Aries: This is an ill Application, and in the Air shews great change, in question sudden alteration. But more particular Application followeth, It is when two Planets are 30 drawing near each other by Conjunction or Aspect, viz. ⚹ △ □ ☍; where note, that ever the lighter Planets apply to the more ponderous, unless they be Retrograde.

Separation is first, when two Planets are de­parted but 6 min. distance; but they are not fully separated till they are distant half of each others Orb.

Prohibition is, when two Planets that signifie the effecting of any thing demanded; are apply­ing 40 by Conjunction or Aspect; and before they can come to a true Aspect, another Planet inter­poseth his Body or Aspect, so that thereby the Matter propounded is hindred or retarded; as Mars in 7 deg. of Aries, and Saturn in 12 deg. of Aries; here Mars signifies the effecting of any business when he comes to the Body of Sa­turn, who promises the conclusion; but Sol at the same time in 6 deg. of Aries, and he is swifter in Motion than Mars; he overtakes Mars and 50 comes to Conjunction with Saturn before Mars, whereby whatever Mars or Saturn did formerly signifie, is now prohibited by the Sun's first im­pediting Mars, and then Saturn before they can come to a true Conjunction; this is called Conjunctio­nal or Bodily Prohibition. You must note, there is a Prohibition by Aspect also: It is necessary to ob­serve this in change of the Air, as well as in Ho­rary Questions.

Refrenation is, when a Planet is applying to 60 another by Conjunction or Aspect, but before he comes to the other be becomes Retrograde; as Saturn in 12 deg. of Aries, and Mars in 7 deg. here Mars hastens to a Conjunction of Saturn; but before he comes to the 10 or 11 deg. he be­comes Retrograde, and so refrains to come to a former Conjunction of Saturn, who still moves sor­ward in the Sign: Nothing signified by the former Conjunction will be effected.

Translation of Light and Nature is, when a Planet separates from one more weighty, and applies to another more heavy; as Saturn in 20 deg. of Aries, and Mars in 15 deg. of Aries, and Mercury in 16 deg. of Aries; here Mercury being a swift Planet separates from Mars, and translates the vertue of Mars unto Saturn. It is done also as well by any Aspect, as by Con­junction.

Reception, is when two Planets are in each o­thers Dignities, as Sol in Aries, and Mars in Leo; here is reception by House, it may be by Tripli­city, Term, or Face, or any essential Dignities: The use of it is much, for when the effecting of a Matter is denied by the Aspects, or when the Sig­nificators have no Aspect to each other, or when it seems doubtful what is promised by Quartile or Opposition of the Significators; yet if mutual Re­ception happen between the Significators; the thing is brought to pass, and without any great trouble, and suddenly to the content of both Par­ties.

Frustration, is when a lighter Planet would come to Conjunction with another; but more weighty before they come to Conjunction, the more weighty Planet is joyned to another, and so the Conjunction of the first is frustrate: As Mercury in 10 deg. of Aries, and Mars in 12 deg. and Jupiter in 13 deg. of Aries; here Mercury strives to come to Conjunction with Mars, but Mars first goes to Conjunction with Jupiter, whereby Mercury is frustrated of the Conjunction of Mars. In Questions it signifies, as our common Proverb is, Two Dogs quarrel, the third gets the Bone: but in the Air (if three Planets happen so near together) it breeds sudden alteration.

Peregrination; a Planet is Peregrine when he hath no essential Dignity in the Sign where he is, neither by House, Exaltation, Triplicity, Term, nor Face. It is very material in all Questions to know the Peregrine Planet, especially in Questions of Theft, for ever almost the significator of the Thief, is known by the Peregrine Planet posited in an Angle, or the second House.

Combustion; a Planet is Combust when he is not 8 deg. 30 min. distant from the Sun, either before or after him, the Significator of the Querent Combust shews he is in great fear, and over-powered by some Great Person. Many times in change of the Air, it shews the higher Winds, and great Storms.

Vnder the Sun Beams; a Planet is said to be so until he be distant from him 17 Degrees.

Cazami; a Planet is in the Heart of the Sun, or in Cazami, till distant from him 17 min. While a Planet is in Cazami he is accounted very strong.

Void of Course; a Planet is so when he is sepa­rated from another, and doth not, during the time of his being in that Sign, apply to any other: This is most usually in the Moon, in Judg­ments carefully observe if she be void of Course, or no, for you seldom see a Business go hand­somly forward when She is so. Some say, that if a Planet be above 12 degr. distant from the [Page 101] Conjunction or Aspect of another Planet, that he shall be counted void of Course till he be within 12 deg. of some Aspect.

Besieging; A Planet is besieged, when he is between the Bodies of the two Infortunes or Malevolents, Saturn and Mars, Pulsation or Mis­sion; some call it rendring of Vertue; it is thus, Saturn in Virgo, and the Sun in Capricorn; here the Sun gives vertue unto Saturn, because the Sun casts an Aspect to Saturn from his House.10

Almuten; It is that Planet that bears chief Rule of any Sign in any Figure.

Almuten of a Figure, is that Planet that hath most Dignities, or is most powerful in the whole Scheme of Heaven.

Haiz, is when a Masculine and Diurnal Planet in the Day time is above the Earth, and in a Masculine Sign; or a Feminine Nocturnal Planet in the Night time under the Earth, and in a Fe­minine Sign. In Questions it usually shews the 20 content of the Querent at the time of the Que­stion when his Significator is so found.

Oriental; that is, when a Planet riseth before the Sun.

Occidental; that is, when a Planet sets after the Sun, Saturn, Jupiter and Mars are called Su­periors and primary Planets; they are Oriental of the Sun from their Conjunction with him till their Opposition, from whence, till again they come to his Conjunction, they are Occidental. 30

Venus and Mercury are called Inferiors, and they cannot make any Sextile, Quartile, Trine, or Opposition to the Sun, because they are never elongated the quantity of a Sextile from the Sun; for Mercury is seldom above 30 deg. distant from the Sun, and Venus seldom above 48 deg. in their greatest Elongations from the Sun. Their Orientality is when they are fewer Degrees of the Sign the Sun is in, or in the Sign proceeding their Occidentality, when they are in more De­grees 40 of the Sign the Sun is in; or in the next following, Luna is Oriental of the Sun from her Opposition to Conjunction, and Occidental from her Conjunction to her Opposition of the Sun.

Direction, is when a Planet moveth forward in the Sign, as going out of 13 deg. into 14 deg. and so along.

Retrogradation, is when a Planet goes back­ward, as out of 10 deg. into 9, 8, 7, &c.

Stationary, is when a Planet moves not, as the 50 Superiors do not two, three, or four Days before they turn Retrograde.

Longitude of a Planet or Star, is their distance from the beginning of Aries, numbred accord­ing to the succession of the Signs.

Latitude of a Planet, or Star, is their distance from the Ecliptick, either toward the North or South.

Declination of a Planet, or Star, is their distance from the Aequator, as they decline from thence 60 either Northward or Southward.

The Orbs of the Planets.
    • is
      • 9 Deg.
      • 9 Deg.
      • 8 Deg.
      • 15 Deg.
      • 7 Deg.
      • 7 Deg.
      • 12 Deg.
        • before and after.
          • Some do allow the Pla­nets Orbs to be (in some of them) greater by a Degree or two, than what I have inserted here.

Right against every Planet are the Degrees of this Orb; for when any two Planets are not in the Degrees of the Signs which make their party Aspect, yet if they be within half the Degrees of each others Orb, they are in Platick Aspect.

Example.

Suppose Saturn in third Degree of Aries; and Jupiter in the ninth Degree of Gemini; here they are in Platick Aspect, because they are within the half of each others Orb: But the Partile Aspect is of greatest force; had Jupiter been in the third Degree of Gemini, then the Aspect had been Partile.

A Table of the Fortitudes and Debilities of the Planets, both Essential and Accidental.

Essential Dignities.
  • A Planet in his own House, or in mu­tual Reception with another by House, shall have Dignities, 5
  • In his Exaltation, or in Reception by Exalta­tion 4
  • In his own Triplicity, 3
  • In his own Term, 2
  • In his Face 1
Accidental Fortitudes.
  • IN the 10th House, or Ascendant 5
  • In the 7, 4, or 11 Houses, 4
  • In the 2, or 5 Houses, 3
  • In the 9th 2
  • In the 3d 1
  • Direct to Sol and Luna, this is void 4
  • Swift in Motion 2
  • Saturn, Jupiter and Mars Oriental 2
  • Venus and Mercury Oc­cidental 2
  • The Moon Increasing, or Occidental 2
  • Free from Combustion, and Sols Beams, 5
  • In the Heart of the Sun, or Cazami 5
  • In Partil Conjunction with Jupiter and Venus, 5
  • In Partil Conjunction with the Dragons Head, 4
  • In Partil Trine to Jupi­ter and Venus 4
  • In Partil Sextile to Ju­piter and Venus, 3
  • In Conjunction with Cor Leonis in 25 of Leo, 6
  • In Conjunction with Spica Virginis, in 19 deg. of Libra 5
Debilities.
  • IN his Detriment, 5
  • In his Fall 4
  • Peregrine 5
Debilities.
  • IN the 12th House, 5
  • In the 8th and 6th Houses 2
  • Retrograde 5
  • Slow in Motion 2
  • Saturn, Jupiter, or Mars Occidental 2
  • Venus and Mercury Ori­ental 2
  • Luna Decreasing in Light 2
  • Combust of the Sun, 5
  • Under the Sun Beams, 4
  • Partil Conjunction with Jupiter or Mars, 5
  • Partil Conjunction with the Dragons Head, 4
  • Besieged of Saturn and Mars 4
  • Partil Opposition of Sa­turn or Mars 4
  • Partil Quartile of Sa­turn or Mars 3
  • In Conjunction with Caput Algol, in 24 deg. of Taurus, or within 5
  • Degrees 5

[Page 102]

Fortitudes of Pars For­tunae.Debilities of Pars For­tunae.
IN Taurus or Pis­ces 5IN Virgo, Capricorn, or Aquarius 5
In Libra, Sagittarius, Leo, or Cancer, 4In Aries neither gets nor loses 0 10
In Gemini 3In the Terms of Saturn or Mars 2
In Virgo, so it be in the Terms of Jupiter or Venus 2In Conjunction with Sa­turn or Mars 5
If in Conjunction with Jupiter or Venus, 5In Opposition with Sa­turn or Mars 4
In Trine with Jupiter or Venus 4In Quartile of Saturn or 20 Mars 3
In Sextile with Jupiter or Venus 3In Conjunction with the Dragons Tail, 3
In Conjunction with the Dragons Head, 3In the 12th House, 5
 In the 8th House, 4
In the 1st or 10th Hou­ses 5In the 6th House, 4 30
In the 7th, 4th, or 11th Houses 4Combust 5
In the 2d or 5th, 3With Caput Algol, in 21 deg. 16 min. of Taurus.
In the 9th House, 2 
In the third House, 1  40
In Conjunction with Re­gulus, in 25 deg. of Leo 6 
In Conjunction with Spi­ca Virg. in 19 deg. of Libra 5 
Not Combust, or under the Suns Beams, 5 

50

These foregoing Tables are so plain and easie, that they need no Explanation; only when you have collected the Fortitudes and Debilities of the Planets in any Figure; then observe which is the greatest in number, and subtract the least from the greatest, and the Remainder shews you what Dignities or Debilities the Planet hath, and according to the number thereof give your Judgment.60

And note, That the first of these three Tables, which is the Table of the Essential Dignities, and Debilities of the Planets, is of greatest use in change of the Air.

[figure]

Of the Faces of the Signs.

THe first Face of Aries is the Face of Mars, and signifies Boldness, Fortitude, Prefer­ment, and Immodesty; it is compleat and strong in its properties and vertues.

The second Face is the Face of the Sun, and signifies Nobility and Preferment, Rule and Do­minion.

The third Face is the Face of Venus, and signi­fies Women, and their skill in Manual operation and Trades belonging to that Sex, Courtesies, Play, Joy, and Mirth.

The first Face of Taurus is Mercuries, and is compleat in his Nature; is good to Plow, Sow, and build; to frequent the company of Lawyers, learned and wise Men; to measure and divide Land; to practice Geometry.

The second Face is belonging to the Moon, and signifies Power, Nobility, and Honour; to spoil Towns, and dispeople them, and bring great ne­cessity upon People.

The third Face is the Face of Saturn, and sig­nifies Misery and Bondage, Slavery, Necessity, Want, and Vileness.

The first Face of Gemini is Jupiters, and is compleat in its Nature, and signifies Writing, Casting of Account, receiving and paying Mo­neys, delivering Petitions, and exercising such Feats of Wit by which little Money is gotten.

The second is the Face of Mars, and signifies Oppression and Labour, obtaining things by much study and difficulty, and if it signifie any at all it is Knavish Wit.

The third is the Face of the Sun, and signifies Forgetfulness, Disdain, Jesting, and Playing.

The first Face of Cancer is the Face of Venus, compleat in its own Nature, and signifies Strength and Sensibility, Community, Subtilty, and fa­vour of the Men they desire.

The second is the Face of Mercury, and signi­fieth Mirth, Jesting, and playing with Women. [Page 103] Riches and Fruitfulness: So proportionably of the rest.

The Radiations of the Signs and Planets.
 
  
  
  
  
  
  
 

10

BY this Table you may know when any As­pect is; as suppose a Planet in Aries calls his Sextile Aspect to the same Degrees in Aquarius 20 and Gemini, and a Square to Capricorn and Can­cer, and a Trine to Sagittarius and Leo, and an Opposition to Libra, as you see in the upper Line; and so of the rest in the Left-hand Co­lumn.

Likewise a Planet in Libra, casts a Sextile Aspect to the same Degrees in Sagittarius and Leo, and a Square to Capricorn and Cancer, and a Trine to Aquarius and Gemini, and Opposition to Aries; as you may see by the Right-hand Co­lumn, and the Aspects in the lower Line. The Example being easie, I will say no more.

By the foregoing Table you may also know when exact Crysis, or Critical Days fall; As for Example, If the M [...]n should be in 10 Degrees, of Aries at the Decumbiter, she takes her first Crysis when she comes to be in 10 Degrees of Cancer, that being in a Square to the same Degree [...] Aries at the Decumbiter; and when she is in 10 Degrees of Libra, her second Crysis being [...] Opposition to Aries; and the third Crysis, when she is in 10 Degrees in Capricorn; and the fourth Crysis, when she comes to the same Degree in Aries▪ as she was in when the Patient first [...] sick.

The Second Part of COSMOGRAPHY, VIZ. GEOGRAPHY.

GEOGRAPHY, is an Art that teacheth to make a true description of the Super­ficies of the whole Earth. It is divided into General and Particular.

The General comprehends not only the whole Earth, as far as is discovered that is habitable, but also that part that lies under the Water. Now the description of the Waters belongs to Hydrography, of which more anon.

The Particular description of the Earth, ex­tends 20 only to some Particular parts thereof, and is divided into Chorography, and Topography; so that as Cosmography is a description of the whole World, and Geography of the Earth; so is Cho­rography a description of every Particular Countrey, or part of the Earth, such as is described by par­ticular Maps, as of England, France, Spain, and the like. And whereas Topography is a descrip­tion of every particular place, as Cities, Towns, Forests, Desarts, Woods, Mountains, Valleys, Lakes, 30 Marshes, Gulphs, Bays, Rivers, Streights, Havens, &c. the knowledg thereof cannot but be of great use, and delight to all men, especially to Travel­lers.

Of the Motion of the Earth.

IN the Copernican Hypothesis, neither the Sun, nor Firmament have any Motion, but the 40 Sun is said to be so disposed in the middle, that the Globe of the Earth, together with the Sphaere of the Moon is continually carried about it, with a most rapid Motion; according to this Figure.

[figure]

50

The Arguments, and Answers pro, and con, are many on both sides; but the most unanswer­able proofs of the truth of the Ptolomaean, or 60 common received Hypothesis are these.

First, If our Terrestrial Globe were not placed in the midst or Center of the World, it would not be plainly made out, how the mid part of Heaven should be conspicuous to us, or how in the New Moon, the Sun and the Moon could be seen both at the same time in parts Diametrically opposite. And whereas they answer, That the Earth is but a small Punctum or Point in respect to the Heavens, and that therefore all this night well enough be without any contradiction to their Hypothesis, a greater Absurdity would still fol­low, that is, that all the part of Heaven beneath the Horizon, would be equally seen by us with those parts above. Moreover, if the Earth were not placed in the middle of the World, there could not be a perpetual Aequinoctial in the Sphaera recta, in regard all the Circulations of the Sun, would be unequally cut by the Horizon. Also if the Earth were not in the middle of the World, there would not always be an Eclipse of the Moon, when she is Diametrically opposite to the Sun, since it would often happen that the Globe of the Earth, would not be exactly in the mid­dle, and equally opposite to both those Planets, within the Line drawn from the Sun, through the middle part of the World to the Moon; whereas in Lunar Eclipses are never known, but when the Moon keeps her opposition with the Sun, through the middle of the World; the Moon then being exactly in the middle, as Astrono­mers have always observed.

Next, there is this Pyhsical reason to be given, why the Earth is in the Center, namely, because all heavy things have their tendency thither, and consequently the Earth, as being of that Gravity which renders it unfit for Motion, and inclines it to a settlement in the lowest place, or Center.

Lastly, in the Copernican Hypothesis, the Globe of the Earth, is affirmed to be moved, not only about the Center of the World, but also about its own Axis; so as successively to receive the diurnal Light according to its different parts; but to refute this Assertion, hereafter it shall be made appear, that the Earth is a Magnetick-Bo­dy, and consequently uncapeable of being moved about its own Axis, and this is the opinion of Galtruchij. But a larger Dicourse of this subject, which recites the Opinions of the Pythagoreans, Ptolomains, and Copernicans, you will find in the fifth Chapter of Varenius his Geography.

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To the Rt. Honble. George Berkeley [...] Berkeley. Ma [...]bray. Segrave, & Bruce, Baron of Berkeley Castle, & Earle of Berkeley, & one of the Lords of his Majestyes most Honble. Privi Councell &c. [...] Anno Dom 1678.

This Plate is humbly. Dedicated By Ricd. Blome.

The Figure of the Earth.

THat the Earth is a round Figure, is proved by several Arguments. First, by the rising of the Stars; for in their rising they appear first to those that live most Easternly; next by the Elevation of the Pole; for the nearer any one comes to the Pole, the higher he is elevated above the Horizon; another Egregious proof is this,10 That a Perpendicular falls in any part whatsoever at right Angles upon the Earth, which could not be if the Earth were plain, and not round according to this Figure. Moreover, If the Superficies of the Earth were plain, and not round, as the Chineses are of opinion, it would not 20 be every where habitable, in regard few Men would be able to stand upright in it; for as ex­perience makes it out, they only can stand up­right upon the Earth, whose Longitude of Body is in the Line of Direction; for thence it is that they stand Perpendicularly upon the Center of the World, excepting in this case, those that possest the middle of the plain of the Earth; which the better to demon­strate 30 observe this Figure, where there is described a right Line for that right Pavement, which tends directly to that Point of Heaven, which answers to the Horizon. Next there are imagined to pro­ceed from the Center of the Earth, Lines passing at rights Angles through the Superficies of the said Earth.

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The Earth excavated in several parts takes in the Waters, so that the Water together with the 40 Earth makes one perfect Globe, which is thereup­on called the Terraqueous Globe; However some are of opinion, that the Globe of the Earth is distinct from that of the Water, but the absurdi­ty of this opinion is easily evinc't by the Eclipse of the Moon, whereas it is plainly evident, that there is but one Shadow of Earth and Water, and that Conical, and consequently that the Globe of the Earth and Water is one and the same, which the better to confirm, it must be consider­ed,50 that there is but one Center, to which both the weight of the Earth and Water tend; for let Water be thrown down any where, it will certain­ly fall the same, as Earth directed from the same place. Nor can it be imagined, if there were two Globes, how there could be any passing from the Globe of Water to that of the Earth. And those that frequent the Seas easily from the sight of either Pole, shew that they are carried a­bout the same Center with that of the Earth. 60 Moreover it is certain; that the Sea in its out­wards Superficies is of a Form so Spherical, that it makes but one rotundity, and consequently but one Globe with the Superficies of the Earth; and this is very manifest by a Ship homeward bound, and returning into the Haven, when those aboard her see first the Turrets and Battlements of publique Edifices, and afterwards the lower parts, which can proceed from no other cause, but from the swelling, and rotundity of the Water. as appears by this Figure, And for the same reason the Pole appears by De­grees more and more elevated above the Horizon to him that Sayls towards it, under the same Meridian.

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Note, that the Superficies of the Sea towards the extream Shoars falls more sensibly from its main bulk, than from any part of the Superficies of the Earth; in regard there is a descent to the Sea from all parts of the Earth, as the fall of Rivers demonstrates; for the Waters by their own natural gravity descend not but from a high­er place to a lower, and consequently it may be laid down for a Maxim, That the whole Mass of Water, or Sea in its utmost Superficies is low­er than the whole Superficies of the Earth; for were that part of the Sea which is near the Shoar, higher than the Shoar, it cannot be otherwise i­magined, but that it must needs pour it self up­on it; and by the Rule of Proportion, the same may be affirmed of any other part of the Sea; for were one part more imminent than another, the higher part according to its fluxible nature would still fall upon the lower, as tending to a Level, and to keep an equal distance from the Cen­ter of the World. And whereas to those that look upon the Sea from the Shoar it seems to rise, and swell up more and more. This ariseth from the fallacy of the Sight, as by the Rules of Opticks may be more plainly demonstrated.

Of the Magnitude of the Earth.

THough the Globe of the Earth, only con­sidered in it self may be said to be a vast Bulk; yet in respect of the Heavens it is but a little Point.

The Compass of the Earth, is to be found out several ways; the first is that of Mauroly­cus, according to this Fi­gure, where the Altitude c, a, of the Mountain; for Example, Aetna is said to be 2 French Leagues, which is four Eng­lish Miles, from whence the prospect upon the Sea by the Line a, d, will consequently be the Longitude of the sensible Horizon, and the Line touching the Circle d, h, i, which is taken for the Compass of the Earth; then suppose that distance, or Line a, d, to be 200 Furlongs, the square whereof is 40000. Likewise let a right Angle be imagined from the Line, a, h, cutting the whole Circle through the Center thereof, under the Latitude a, g, which is the same with c, a, These things thus laid down, whereas the said right Angle a, g, h, i, according to the 36th Pro­position of the said Book of Euclide, is to be e­equal

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[Page 106] to the Square of the Tangent Line a, d; It will be thence easy to determine of the said Right Angle, and the Longitude thereof.

But the more clear way of finding out this Compass, is by the Elevation of the Pole in two places: For Example, Two Cities so far distant from each other under the same Meridian, that the Pole Elevated in one more than in the other one Degree, or some known part of a Degree; For Example, a fourth part, from whence the 10 whole Degree may easily be computed: Now one Degree in Heaven answering to 30 French Leagues, and there being 360 Degrees in all, Multiply 360 by 30, and the Product is 10800 which is the compass of the Earth. But accor­ding to the English Account, the Circumference is 21600 Miles. From whence the Diameter accor­ing to the Triple proportion allowed by Geome­tricians, between that and the Circumference, will be found to be 3436 Leagues omitting all Fracti­ons, 20 and the distance from the Surface to the Center, 1718 Leagues. Hence also may be made the Computation of the whole Superficies of the Earth, which will be 37114200 Square Leagues; and in like manner the whole solidity 21254065200.

Note, that this universal Bulk of the Earth, considered as to its solidi­ty,30 or depth, is di­vided into several Regions, according to this Figure, whereof the first is that which is cal­led the outward­most of the Sur­face; the second is the next beneath, where for the most part Stones, Metals, and the like are generated, in which also are certain Passages, 40 and as it we [...]e Channels, through which Waters from the Sea, are devolved towards the Genera­tion of Rivers and Fountains. Also hitherto belongs Subterranean Fires. The third reaches from thence to the Center, and this according to the whimsical fancy of some, is said to be the place or Prison of the damned.

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However, Geographers affirm the Surface of the Waters, to be double to that of the Earth; yet 50 certain it is, that as to the whole Mass, the Earth is much the biggest, of which there is this material proof, viz. that neither all the Earth is covered with Water, neither are there any Wa­ters in any part under which there is not Earth of far greater profundity than the Water above; for the greater profundity of the Earth, is ac­counted to be above 1700 Leagues, whereas the Sea where it is deepest, scarce exceeds one League in depth, as the skillfullest Mariners have ex­perimented 60 by founding the Depth.

That the Earth is a Magnetick Body, and first of the nature of the Magnet, or Loadstone.

IT is to be understood, that the Loadstone is a Stone that hath the virtue of attracting cognate Bodies, and directing it self to certain parts of the World; those are said to be cognate Bodies which have a Magnetick virtue, either pro­per to themselves, as other Magnets, or borrowed from the Magnet, as Iron. But these kind of Notions are best made good by Experiments.

First, we observe that Iron, that is Iron Rings moved to the Magnet, presently cleave to it, and draw each other successively in manner of a Chain; especially if the Iron be substantial, well pur­ged and clear of Dross. Secondly, That a Mag­netick virtue is contracted by the Iron, but not retained by it when the Magnet is removed, ex­cep it be drawn out very long, and in form of a Rod, or Staff. Thirdly, That the Magnet exer­ciseth its attractive force only in certain determi­ned Points; and that these Points are as it were two Poles, and placed as it were at the extremi­ties of a certain Axis, as a, b, in this Figure. These Poles are best discovered by the tendency of a Needle that way. Fourthly, That these Poles are directed to the contrary parts of the World, one to the North, and therefore called the North Pole, and the other to the South, and called the South Pole. These Magneticks besides their attractive, have also a directive virtue, whence the Needle in the Mari­ners Compass is of such great use for the Naviga­ting of Ships from Port to Port; nor is it of small use in Dyalling for the drawing the Meri­dian Line. Fifthly, That the Poles as they are of a contrary direction, viz. North and South, so also they are of a contrary virtue; for that which one draws to it self, is repelled by the o­ther; the virtue which one contributes to the Iron is destroyed by the other. Moreover the same Pole is sometimes contrary to it self; for what virtue by one kind of Motion it gives to the Iron, by another Motion it takes away. Sixthly, Magneticks keep exact concord amongst themselves when they meet near Poles of a con­trary

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direction, such as this Fi­gure represents; but on condition that no more than two be pre­sent at a time; for if a third comes in the way all is disturbed. Also those disagree, and exer­cise Hostility one with another, which tend both to the same term, and draw virtue from the same Fountain, as is to be seen in the first Figure of this Problem; where three Needles fixt all to the same Pole, depart one from another. Seventh­ly, As to propagation and extension of the Magnetick virtue in its subject, observe that this virtue from the Magnet, within the Sphaere of its proper Activity is diffused in an instant; for of many Versories those which are distant are a­gitated [Page 107] at the same time with the nearest, for as much as interposed Bo­dies hinder that propaga­tion. Moreover, as is re­presented in this Figure, it so affects its subject, that it is divided as it were by an Aequator into two contrary parts, each 10 whereof as it were flows by certain Rays to a Point, being that which is termed the Pole; and it is therefore called the Center of Magnetick virtue, in which sense they say that the Magnet hath the Center of its vir­tue in the Circumference. And more than this, that in the same Circumference it hath two Centers, of an opposite virtue. Eighthly, It is to be observed, that in Magneticks there is a manifold kind of Verticity, Motion, or Agitation; the first and 20 chiefest is that Verticity by which it is directed to the Poles of the World, and conforms as much as may be to its own Axis, with the Axis of the World; nor is there any other reason to be given, why Poles of a different direction are most friend­ly, and mutually conserve themselves, but that they may be united together to constitute the Axis, and more firmly affixt to those opposite parts of the World; whereas on the contrary, Poles of the same direction have an antipathy,30 and mutually destroy each other, by Reason they cannot be joyned together near the same Axis; for the Poles that are alike, regard both the same part of the World, whereas of those parts which meet into a Closure, one ought to regard the North, the other the South.

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The second Verticity is the Declination, or Variation, by which it declines from its Pole either Eastwards, or Westwards. But this is different in different parts of the World. Now 40 to find its quantity for any given place, set the Versory directly in the Meridian Line Astrono­mically drawn; for the Angle which it will make with that Meridian Line gives the Degrees.

The third sort of Verticity is Inclination; for if a Needle not yet touch'd be placed in a Rhomb, and six'd upon a Cork in swiming Water, or so hung upon a Thread, as to keep its Aequi­librium, as soon as it shall draw the Magnetick Virtue by the application of the Magnetick, it 50 will incline it self by certain Degrees to the Ho­rizon, and to the Pole of the Earth, as in this Figure; though if you stand under the Aequa­tor of the World, it will become Parallel to the Horizon; but it will always incline to the Pole of the Earth in 60 such a proportion as you shall recede from the Aequator, till at length it erects perpendicularly when you come to the Pole. From the Inspection of this Magnetick Decliration, a Circle divided into its Degrees be­ing made use of, true Judgment may be made of the Elevation of the Coelestial Pole, as that famous Author Grandamicus hath sufficiently de­monstrated; who also shews, how from Decli­nation and Inclination joyn'd together, conjecture may be made of Geographical Longitudes, if from certain Observations there be any Informa­tion of the proper Inclination and Declination of the Countrey whose Longitude is sought, although the variation of the Magnet seems somewhat too uncertain for any true Judgment to be made thereof.

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Note, That the Magnet hath not that power of staying it self at the East and West, in some Oriental or Occidental Points, as it hath in its Poles, but is rather situate in a certain Meridian Circle, which of its own nature composeth it self to the Worlds Meridian. Whence consequent­ly it comes to pass, that in certain parts it fixes to the East and West, but that in reality it hath not that virtue plac'd in it, except in some kind of Meridian, as is hereby proved; viz. be­cause the same Meridian being kept, though that part which was turned to the East becomes Occidental, nevertheless it perfectly rests. This is to be observed in a Vertical Needle swiming, such as this Figure shews.

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From what hath been said, may very well be inferr'd; First, That the Magnet hath not only its Aequator, by which it is divided into the Septentrional, and Meridional Pole, but that there is also found in it a Meridian by which it is divided in the Oriental and Occidental Parts. Se­condly, That the Circular Motion is no less na­tural to the Magnet, than it is to a Stone to move downwards, or to Fire to move upwards, and that from an inward Principle of Nature; inso­much, that being by any Accident diverted from its proper Site, it betakes it self to it again, by cleaving either to the Poles of the World, or to the Oriental and Occidental Parts. Thirdly, That such is the nature of Magnetick virtue, that it renders whatsoever Subject it effects every way quiet and immoveable about its Center, foras­much as from one part through the Poles its Axis is rendred immoveable; then through the Meridian the Motion about the Axis is hin­dred.

From what hath been said of Magnetick vir­tue in general, we pass on to affirm, that there is actually in the Earth a Magnetick virtue, being confirmed in this Opinion by the Authority of the most Learned in Magnetick Philosophy, that later Ages have produc'd. For this part of Science hath not been long revealed to the World, and the many substantial Reasons they give for this their Assertion: First, That there is a Mag­netick virtue derived from the Earth to Iron, is apparent from the Observation of long Iron Bars [Page 108] set upright on the Earth, their lowermost part being always imbued with the virtue of that Pole which is next, and which is proper to that Countrey in which they are, as with us the North; and hereof any one may be himself an Eye-witness, by applying the Versory to any of these Bars or Rods of Iron. Secondly, No other Reason can be given of the Magnetick Inclina­tion than now treated of, but because the Pole of the Earth draws the Needle to it; neither is 10 there any other Reason of Declination, but the various temper of the Earths, whence either more or less the Virtue is infused, and the Ver­sory disturbed from its Natural course; for in this matter we may Philosophize in the same manner as concerning the Magnet Stone, which the inequality of parts performs the same thing, as is often found by Experience.

Thus it may also be asserted, that the Ter­restrial Pole is the cause of that Verticity, by 20 which the Needle touch'd declares to us the Poles of the World; for as the Magnet or Load-Stone conforms to it self the friendly Poles of the Versorian Needle; so the Earth, which is in the nature of a certain great Magnet, will con­form to it self all these lesser Magnetick Bodies, and so will change their proper Site; that is to say, that Pole which inclin'd towards the South will be attracted towards the North, by the force of the Terrestrial Pole. 30

Neither can that Verticity, and Magnetick Direction be ascribed (as some Write) to Heaven on the Coelestial Pole; for if it had that force of attracting, the Needle would not incline to the Pole of the Earth, but rather would be erected upwards to Heaven. Moreover, if the Coelestial Pole had the efficacious force of attracting to it the Magnetick Needle, the said Needle would decline from it. Nor have these Parts that lye near the Pole this attractive force; for were it so,40 for as much as their Motion is Circular, there must needs be a variation of the Magnetick Needle: But this common Experience contra­dicts.

Note, That this force of the Terrestrial Pole is only exercised upon the Poles of the Magnet, which nevertheless being by greater force, may possibly decline elsewhere. But so long as the Magnet vertically constituted can act freely, as when it swims upon Quicksilver, or the like, it 50 will compose its Meridian within the Meridian of the World, without any Declination, by reason the Magnetick Meridian is not moved by any other, nor hath it any Antipathy, or Sympathy with the Polar virtue. The same thing may be as conveniently done by a Vertical Needle float­ing on the Water, as in the last Figure; and by this means may be had the Vniversal Meridian, without Declination, in any Countrey what­soever.60

But when we treat of the Magnetical virtue that is in the Globe of the Earth, it is not to be understood of any piece of Earth, but only of that which is pure and unmixt.

Of the Immobility of the Earth, both at the Center, and about the Center of the World.

THe Terraqueous Globe, by reason of its in­nate gravity, hath this property, that be­ing placed in the midst of the World it resists all Motion, as well upwards as side-ways: (For that is the proper effect of Gravity.) But however it is thus moveable in the Center, or at the Center of the World; yet it is moveable about its Center. For this is certain, That a Globe of equal Gravity hung in an Aequilibrium, may without any great force be inclined and moved Orbicularly. Nor can the Terraqueous Globe from any part resist that Motion, resting only upon its Center. Nei­ther doth it press hard upon it self, forasmuch as heavy things placed in their proper place dis­cover no heaviness or weight. Therefore it is from the weight of the Earth that it is immove­able about its Center; nor doth that hinder but that it might be every way moved Orbicularly, either by the ebbing and flowing of the Seas, or by the violence of the Winds. Yet that it is not thus moved, since in one and the same place of the Earth there always appears the same Elevation of the Pole; to which may be added the Testimony of Holy Writ, affirming, that the Earth stands firm for ever upon its own Foundation. Besides, that there is a necessity of this Immobility of the Earth, about, in, and at its Center, for the better succeeding of all Na­tural Productions and Conveniences of Man­kind.

Now to apply what hath been said herein, I shall not doubt to affirm, (following the Autho­rity of that eminent Author Grandamicus,) That this Immobility of the Earth about its Center proceeds from the Magnetick virtue; for it im­ports no less that the Earth be immoveable about its Center, than in the Center. GOD in his Providence enduing all Natural things with those Qualities that are requisite for their preservation and consistence: But there is no Quality fitter for this purpose than the Magnetick virtue; nor was it indeed given by GOD to any other end, being it comprehends all things that conduce to this sort of Immobility, and since it renders the Poles and the Meridian of themselves Immove­able; nor is there any other thing required to the Immobility.

Of the EARTH, its Circumference, Superficies, &c.

THe Circumference of the Earth (which if considered with the Firmament, is but a Spot) is divided into 360 Parts or Degrees (as the Heavens are) and each Degree contains 60 English Miles, by which Account the whole Cir­cumference is 21600 Miles, the Diameter (as all round Bodies being one third) is 7200 Miles; so that by consequence, the Semidiameter which reaches to the Center, is 3600 Miles. But as it properly belongs to Geography, to give an Account of the Latitude and Longitude of Places, so to find out the Thickness of the Earth seems to be­long to Geometry.

[Page 109] The whole Superficies consists of Earth and Water, as already treated of; which is divided into two parts, the one Visible, and the other Invisible: And divided into five Zones, which are treated of in Cosmography, or Astronomy.

The Visible part of the Earth, which was ap­pointed by Gods Providence for the Seat of Man, and other living Creatures, lay at first all under Water; but at the Command of God at the Crea­tion, the Waters were separate from the Earth, 10 and are now its Bounds, which according to their various Shapes have their Names. The Borders of the Sea serve likewise for the Continent, some of which Borders are of easie Access, and pro­per for Navigation; others Inaccessible, and hard to be approached, as those places where there are Precipices, Rocks, and high Hills. Such as are convenient, are either more or less commodious: Of the first sort are the Sea-Ports, Harbours, and Bays, which said places are (or ought to be)20 secure from all danger of Seas, Winds, and the like: But there is this difference between a Har­bour, and a Bay, that Ships may safely Ride in an Harbour, but not in a Bay.

The Habitable Land is divided into Continents, and Islands. A Continent is a great part of the Surface of the Earth, as Russia, Tartary, Germany, &c.

An Island is a part of Earth surrounded with Water, as Great Britain, Ireland, Madagascar,30 Japan, Jamaica, Barbadoes, &c.

A Peninsula, or Chersonesus, is a part of Land almost encompassed with Water, being only joyn­ed to the Main Continent by a narrow Isthmus, or Neck of Land; as Morea in Greece, Panama in South America, &c.

A Cape, or Promontory, is a Hill that shoots it self forth into the Sea; as the Cape of Good-Hope, in the South part of Africa.

A Point, or Foreland, is a narrow piece of 40 Ground Point-wise into the Sea.

The other Invisible Superficies of the Earth, is either Uninhabitable, or covered with Running, or standing Waters.

The Runing-Waters are either lesser, as Springs, Brooks, and Rivulets; or greater, as large Rivers, and Terrents.

The Standing-Waters are sweet, salt, or the like. These gather naturally in long places, as Lakes, and Marshes; or Artificially, as Wells, Cisterns, 50 and Ponds.

The Waters are generally divided into Seas, Lakes, and Marshes; or Artifically into Wells, Cisterns, Ponds, Gulphs, Rivers, &c. as by the Hydrographical Table following the division of the Waters will better appear.

The Latitude and Longitude of Places.

THe Latitude and Longitude of Places should 60 next follow; but having largely treated thereof in Cosmography, or Astronomy, 'tis thought convenient to omit them here, rather than to have two Discourses of one and the same Sub­ject.

☞ The Art of GEOGRAPHY, as also that of COSMOGRAPHY, are of so large a Latitude, that it cannot be comprehended in so narrow a Compass; however the most essential things are taken notice of. But having lately published a Volume in large Folio of that Sub­ject, entituled Cosmography and Geography, in two Parts (the first containing the General and Abso­lute Part thereof, Translated from the Works of that eminent and much esteemed Geographer VARENIVS. The Second Part being a Geo­graphical Description of the World, taken from the Notes and Works of the Famous Monsieur Sansen, late Geographer to the French King; Il­lustrated with Maps; And for the further com­pleatment thereof are added about 100 Geogra­phical and Hydrographical Tables of the King­doms and Isles in the World, with their chief Cities, Ports, &c.) I have thought fit to give the Reader an Account of the Heads therein treated of, with some Cosmographical, Geographical, and Hydrographical Tables, taken notice of in the Second Part, viz. Sansons Geography. Which said Work having been so well received and ap­proved of by experienced Cosmographers and Geographers, I may be bold to recommend it for the best of that kind yet extant in our Native Tongue.

The Heads of the respective Things in the several Chapters of VA­RENIUS, with the Folio's where Treated of.
In the First Part, being the ABSOLVTE, or COMPLEAT PART.

Chapter 1.—Folio 1.

COncerning the Precognita's, or things known before the handling the Art it self; as the Definition, Division, Object, Properties, Principles, Order, Method, Original, Excellency, and other Affections of Geography.

Chap. 2.—Fol. 6.

TReats of certain things taken out of Geo­metry, and Trigonometry, necessary to be known in Geography.

Chap. 3.—Folio 11.

COncerning the Figure of the Earth.

Chap. 4.—Folio 15.

COncerning the Dimension and Magnitude of the Earth.

A Table of the Quantity of one Degree in every Parallel; or the Degrees in which the Parallels are distant from the Aequator, or the Elevation of the Poles of the Parallels.

Chap. 5.—Folio 23.

THe Motions of the Earth, according to the Opinion of the Pythagoreans, Ptolomaians, and Copernicans, with some others.

Chap. 6.—Folio 27.

COncerning the Situation, or place of the 10 Earth, in respect of the Planets and Stars.

Chap. 7.—Folio 30.

COncerning the Substance and Constitution of the EARTH; declaring of what Simple and Simular Bodies it may consist, or be com­pounded of. That it is divided into Dry and Moist parts, viz. Earth and Water, and how they hold, or cleave together, making the Land, 20 whose Superficies, or Surface, is continual, but that of the Water is not so. That the sticking or cleaving fast together of the Earth is occa­sioned from Salt. That the kinds of Earths are divers ways mixed together in the Earth; And that the Cavities of the Earth, and the out­ward Disposition thereof, are not always the same.

Chap. 8.—Folio 35.

TReats concerning the Natural division of 30 the Parts of the EARTH, made from the Ocean flowing round about it; as Islands, both great and small, Peninsula's, and Isthmusses.

Chap. 9.—Folio 40.

OF MOVNTAINS and HILLS, in General, and how how to find the height thereof; also the Height being known, to find the 40 distance thereof from us. The length of the Shadow that a Mountain casts, with the height of the Sun to that time being given, to find the Alti­tude of the said Mountain. Why Showers of Rain, Mists, and Snows, are frequent on the Tops of Mountains, when as in the Valleys the Air is serene and calm without any such Meteors.

Chap. 10.—Folio 46.

TReats of the Differences, and tract of 50 MOVNTAINS, and in Particular concerning the most famous Chains or Cliffs of Mountains; also those famous for their great Al­titude; and for their burning and casting forth Flames. That Mountains that run forth in a narrow Neck into the Sea, are called Promontories. Of Caves, and deep Abysses, that are in some parts of the Earth.

Chap. 11.—Folio 54.60

OF Mines, Woods, and Desarts.

Chap. 12.—Folio 57.

TReats of the Division of the OCEAN throughout the Earth. That the Ocean is a continued Tract, encompassing the Earth, and the Terrestrial Parts; that the Ocean may be di­vided into three kinds, viz. Ocean, or Seas, Bays, or Gulphs and Streights, the chiefest of which are taken notice of.

Chap. 13.—Folio 65.

TReats of some properties of the Ocean, and its part. That the Superficies of the O­cean, and all Liquid Bodies are round, Sphaerical, or else in part of a Sphaerical Superficies, whose Center is the same with that of the Land. That the Ocean is not of a greater height than the Shoars of the Earth, so that the Earth and Water are almost of the same Altitude, high Mountains ex­cepted. The reason why the Sea, being beheld from the Shoar, seemeth to arise in a greater Al­titude and Tumor, by how much it is more re­mote. The cause and original of Gulphs, Bays, and Streights. Whether the Ocean be every where of the same Altitude. That the depth of the Ocean in most parts may be sounded That the Ocean hath no Fountains, but is contained with­in the Cavities of the Earth. That the Saltness of the Waters proceed from the particles of Salt mixed with it. Whether that Water be the fresher in the Ocean, by how much it is nigher the bottom, and why in some parts fresh Water is found in the bottom. That the Water is less Salt nearer the Poles, and more Salt the nearer to the Aequator. The reason why Rain-Water in the middle of the Sea is found sweet, but the Water separated from the Salt-Water is yet found Salt; when as the Rain Water proceedeth from the Vapours exhaled from the Sea. That Sea-Water is more ponderous than Fresh; and the Water of one Sea, is more heavy than of ano­ther. That Salt-Water doth not so soon freez as Fresh. Why the Ocean is not bigger, seeing that it receives so many Rivers. That certain parts of the Ocean differ in Colour. That certain pe­culiar things are found in certain parts of the Ocean. That the Ocean, or rather all Water casts out Terrestrial Bodies on the Shoar, especially in the Full Moon.

Chap. 14.—Folio 83.

TReats of the MOTION of the SEA in general, and in particular of the Flux and Reflux; shewing what Water hath no natural Motion, except one, by which it moveth from a more higher place unto those more low; but if the vicine place or Body be equal, or of a greater Al­titude than the Superficices of the Water, then the Water naturally resteth, that is, being without Motion, except compelled by a violent Cause. That when part of the Ocean is moved, the whole is likewise so; but by so much the more, that every one is nearer the part moved. That the Quarter into which the Sea that is moved tend­eth, [Page 111] is to be observed. The Motion of the Sea, is either Direct, or a Vortex, or a Concussion. That Wind is the cause of the contingent cause of the Sea, forceing the Sea to a quarter, opposite to the Wind, nor is the Sea ever free from such Mo­tions; this Motion of the Sea is twofold, the one continually from East to West; the other com­posed of two contrary Motions, termed the Flux, and Reflux, in which the Sea floweth at certain Hours, to the Shoar, and at others back again:10 But the Winds oft-times change the general Motion of the Sea, especially those Fixed Winds. That the cause of the general Motion, from East to West, is uncertain; and that the Flux and Re­flux, in which the Sea in the space of about 12 ½ Hours Floweth unto most Coasts, and so Floweth back again, is when the Moon approacheth, to the lowest Meridian, and refloweth when the Moon recedeth from the Meridian, towards the West, and towards the East; and the reason thereof.20 In Full and New Moons, the general Motion of the Sea, from East to West, is more violent; al­so the intumescency of the Sea, is found great in most parts; Also in the Vernal and Autum­nal Equinox, the intumescency of the Sea, is greater than in other Seasons, but least in the Solstices. That in some parts of the Ocean, as Gulphs and Shoars, the encrease and decrease of the Water in the Influx, and Deflux is great; in other parts it is very small, and in some not dis­cernable.30 That in those places of the Sea, to which the Moon is Vertical, the Flux and Re­flux is greatest, except impediments. That the quantity of the Flux, and Reflux is inconstant in every place, and divers on several Days, and by so much the greater or lesser, by how much the Moon is more remote, or nearer to the place. The variety of peculiar, or proper Motions of the Sea, in which a certain part of the Ocean is either moved perpetually, or in some certain 40 Months is great and considerable. Now unto the special perpetual Motions of the parts of the Ocean also these do pertain, caused by great Ri­vers discharging themselves therein. That the Motion of the Sea termed a Concussion, or Trem­bling, is caused from a Spiration of Wind, which moveth the Earth, or Water it self, causing it to rise. The reason why the Pacifick Ocean is more Calm, and without great Floods or Waters, and the reason it is easily moved, and rough with 50 a Wind.

Chap. 15.—Folio 102.

TReats of LAKES, POOLS, MA­RISHES, and the like, standing Wa­ters; giving an Account thereof, and the reasons why some neither send forth, nor receive Rivers; of others that receive Rivers, but let out none; and others that both receive and let out Rivers. 60 That many Lakes contain Fresh Water, and but few Salt. That Marishes have a Sulphurous, Bitumenous Earth in them.

Chap. 16.—Folio 108.

TReats of RIVERS in General. That Torrents and Rivulets sometimes proceed from a quantity of Rain, and dissolved Snow. That most Rivers proceed from Fountains; but great Rivers have their original, either from the Congress of many Rivulets, and small Ri­vers; or flow from Lakes and Marishes. That Rivers are very much augmented by frequent Rains, and dissolved Snow, and that in divers Seasons and Months of the Year. From whence Rivers are generated; and what may be the Original of that Water which floweth from Springs. That certain Rivers hide themselves in the midst of their passage under the Earth, and in another place rise up again, as it were new Rivers; and all Rivers do discharge themselves into the Sea, or else the one into the other, which at last emp­tieth it self into the Sea. The reason why no Salt-Water Rivers are found, seeing that Salt Springs are found in many places. The reason why Rivers have, or acquire a greater Latitude in one part of them, than in another; and why some run with a more swift Current, and others with a more slow. Also why one River is car­ried with a swift Current in once place, and a slow in another. That most Rivers have their Course in divers windings. The Water of Rivers carrieth with it many particles of various Metals, Minerals, Sands, and Oily, fat Bodies; and that the Waters of most Rivers differ in colour, gravity and other qualities. That some Rivers at a certain time every Year, are so augmented, that they over flow the adjacent Lands. The Rea­son how Springs and Fountains break forth. Rules to know if a Spring or Well may be made there, and to know if the Water is good. That Whirl­pools are found in the Channels of some Rivers. That River-Water is more light than that of the Sea.

Chap. 17.—Folio 130.

TReats of MINERAL WATERS, BATHS, and SPAWS. That no Water is pure, and elementary, but contains, or hath mixed Particles, such as are found in Ter­restrial Bodies, as Oyls, Spirits, and the like, The reason how Mineral Waters are generated; for there are innumerable kinds of these Waters, according to the variety and diversity of the Par­ticles which they contain of divers Minerals; some being acid or sowr, others hot, as Baths, others fat and Oily, others bitter, others cold, others Poysonous, and others Salt.

Chap. 18.—Folio 142.

TReats of the mutations, of the Places of the Water, and Land, or of the mutations of Watery Superficies into the Earthy, or the contrary. To know the Superficies of the Earth, which the Water possesseth, how great it is, and that which the Earth occupieth. That the Super­ficies of the Water, as also of the Land is not [Page 112] at all times of the same Magnitude, but some­times greater, and sometimes lesser; and that when one augmenteth, the other diminisheth. The Water may leave the Shoar for divers causes, and become dry Ground; likewise Rivers leave their Channel, or Shoar, and afford new Land; Lakes are also dried up, and become Land; Streights are exsiceated, and changed into Isth­musses or Continents; and Bays, or Gulphs, in course of time become dry places. The gene­ration 10 of Sandy-Banks in the Sea, and elsewhere. Islands are produced in the Sea, and Rivers, after the same Mode that Sand-Banks are: yet Islands may proceed from Sand-Banks, although made after another Mode. That the Ocean now pos­sesseth part of the Land which formerly it did not. The reason why in the middle of the Ocean no Islands are found.

Chap. 19.—Folio 154.20

TReats of the ATMOSPHAERE and AIR. That from the Parts of the Earth, as well Dry as Moist, or from the Earth and Water, Vapours and Fumes do continually ex­hale into that Space which is about the Earth. The Atmosphaere is a Space about the whole Earth, in which the Exhalations raised from the Earth are always present; and it is uncertain whether any Thing or Body else be contained 30 in it, besides these Exhalations; and sometimes more, sometimes less Exhalations are drawn from the Earth, especially in divers places. The Exhalations which constitute the Atmosphaere are of divers kinds (especially in sundry Regions) viz. Waters, Saltish, Earthy, Sulphurous, and Spi­rituous. The least Particles of the Air, and those all insensible repel and reflect the Rays, as a Looking-Glass; but some of the Particles of the Air being sensible and compounded, do 40 transmit many Rays, but reflect fewer; others (on the contrary) transmit fewer Rays, and re­flect more. Exhalations do not ascend of them­selves, and of their own nature upwards, but are forced by a violent Motion; or the Air is not light but heavy, in a proper Mode of Expres­sion. The upper parts of the Atmosphaere are more subtile than the lower, yet it may so come to pass, that the middle parts may be more gross and condensed, than the lower parts 50 about the Earth. The Atmosphaere, or Air, be­ing heated, possesseth more Space than before. Instructions to make a Thermometer, Thermoscope, or Weather-Glass, to discover the Mutations of the Air in Heat and Cold. The serene Air may be so carried by a most vehement Fire, that it may occupy a Space 70 times greater than it did before: on the contrary, it may be so con­densed in a Wind-Gun, that it may only possess a 60th part of the former Space; but the heat 60 of the Sun bringeth not so great a Rarification, or the cold so great a Condensation to the Air. The reason why the places in the Frigid Zone, at the time in which the Sun ariseth not altoge­ther unto them, on some days the Air is serene. but for the most part foggy. Whether the Al­titude of the Atmosphaere above the Earth, be the same in all places at one and the same time, and whether its Figure be Sphaerical. That Con­densations, or Rarefaction of Air changeth not its Altitude. By how much the Air is the more cold, by so much the more it is condensed; and therefore the more condensed in the Winter. By how much that place of the Earth unto which the Sun is vertical recedeth to the Pole, by so much the less distant the place of the Air is from the Earth, in which the Rain, Snow, and Hail begin to be generated. The Atmosphaere, or Air, causeth the Sun, or the rest of the Stars and Planets to be seen before they arise in the Horizon, also to appear higher than they are. By how much the Air is thicker, by so much the more the Star is depressed beneath the Horizon, when it first begins to appear; and by how much the Air is lower, by so much the Star is the more depressed beneath the Horizon. The reflection of the Rays of the Sun from the Par­ticles of the Air is the chief cause of the Twi­light, that is, of the Light before the rising, and after the setting of the Sun; from which Twi­light the Altitude of the Air may be found. To find the Altitude of the Clouds by a Geodetical dimension. That the Air in some places hath some things peculiar.

Chap. 20.—Folio 179.

TReats of the WINDS in general, and the QVARTERS of the WORLD. The Wind is a commotion of the Air, sensible by touch, or with some force. Most Winds tend from one Quarter to the opposite Quarter, and force Bodies with them. A Quarter is an ima­ginary Point, extended from any place of the Earth perpendicularly, towards one Point of those which circularly stand about that place. These Quarters are infinite in number, seeing that Plains may be drawn through every Point of the Horizon, but 32 only have Names ascribed to them; which said 32 Points or Quarters are equally distant one from another. The causes of the Winds are various; for seeing that the Wind is nothing but a continued protraction of the Air, all those things that are able to effect such a protrusion will be the cause of Winds. Why the Winds blow by an interrupted force, so that sometimes they cease, and at other times (as it were) with redoubled strength, they return with the greater importunity; and the reason that they seem more continually to blow on the Sea, so that it is discovered less calm. The reason that Westerly-Winds are less frequent than Easterly; and the Northern and Eastern Winds are more impetuous and stormy, and on the contrary the Southern and Western more calm: Also why the Southern and Western Winds are more hot than those of the North, or East. Why from the sight of a Cloud of a pale and duskish colour, a Wind proceeds from that Quar­ter. Why in the Spring and Autumn the Winds are more frequent, and stronger than in the hot Summer, or cold Winter. Unto what Space one and the same Wind may extend it self.

Chap. 21.—Folio 187.

TReats of the WINDS in particular, and of TEMPESTS. That one Wind is constant, and another inconstant; one Wind is general, and another particular. Some Winds are Periodical and fixed, others wandring and Er­ratick. Of the most noted Winds: The Ete­sian Winds, that are Anniversary in Greece, pro­ceed 10 from Rain and Snow dissolved on the Moun­tains. Some Winds are proper, and almost per­petual to some place, others are ceasing. Unto the Periodical, or State-Winds, appertain those also termed Day-Winds, which in some Regions, and at a certain time of the Year blow for some hours every day. By how much you draw near the Aequator from the Artick-Pole, by so much the North-Winds are found to be less vigo­rous; and having past the Aequator in part of 20 the South Continent Southern Winds are vigo­rous, which in these places are cold and dry. There are differences of Winds, some are sudden, impetuous, and violent, not continuing long; An Exhydrias, is a Wind breaking from a Cloud with great abundance of Water; A Ty­phon, is a violent Wind passing swiftly through all the Quarters about a place, and for the most part rushing from the top. Whether that a cer­tain Wind may arise from the flowing of the 30 Sea, and of the Rivers. Why Ignes-fatui, Castor. and Pollux, and Helena, are amongst Tempests. Why there is so frequent a Calm in the Sea near Guiny, and under the Aequator, in the Atlantick Ocean, between America and Africa. That in some Regions the Tempests are Anniversary.

In the Second Part, being GENE­RAL 40 GEOGRAPHY.
Treats of the Affections of the Places of the Earth, depending on the apparent Motion of the Stars.

Chap. 22.—Folio 203.50

TReats of Things necessary to be fore­known in Geography.

Chap. 23.—Folio 207.

OF the LATITVDE of Places, and the Elevation of the Pole. Shewing, that the Latitude of a place in the Superficies of the Earth is the distance of the same from the Aequator. That 60 the Elevation of the Pole of any place, or above the Horizon of any place, is called the Arch of the Coelestial Meridian of that place intercepted between one and the other Coelestial Pole, and the Horizon of that place. The place being given in the Superficies of the Globe, so to constitute the Globe, that the Wooden Horizon may be the Horizon of that place. A place being given in the Superficies of the Globe, or the Latitude of any place being given, to shew all the places of the Earth, which may have the same Latitude, or Distance from the Aequator, or Elevation of the Pole; or to find all the places of the Earth, which may have the distance given from the Aequator. How to find the Meridian, and Point of the North and South in the given place of the Earth. To place a Globe, so that the Car­dines of the same, may respect the Cardines of the Earth, that is, that the Brazen Meridian may be seated in the true Meridian of the Place. To find the Latitude of the place from the Hea­ven, or the Elevation of the Pole above the Ho­rizon of any place by the benefit of the Stars. The places of the Earth (under the Aequator) have no Latitude, but both Poles lye in their Horizon. The places under the Poles have the Latitude of 90 Degrees; viz. the Pole in the Vertex, and the Aequator in the Horizon. The places between the Poles and the Aequator, have a less Latitude than 90 Degrees.

Chap. 24.—Folio 213.

TReats of the Division of the Earth into ZONES; and the Caelestial Appearances in the divers Zones; Shewing, that from the proper or Annual Motion of the Sun, there ari­seth a certain Division of the Superficies of the Earth into five Zones, as already treated of; and that the Aequator of the Earth passeth through these places there taken notice of. In the places that lye in the Tropicks, the Sun once a Year is only vertical on the Meridies, or Noon­stead; but in places under the Torrid Zone he is vertical twice a Year, viz. two Days, which are equally distant from the longest Day. But in places without the Torrid Zone, and seated with­out the Tropicks, the Sun never in any Day of the Year is vertical. To Places seated in either of the Frigid Zones, the Sun every Year (some Day or other) setteth not, and so many Days riseth not; and that so many Days the more, by how much those Days are nigh the Poles; so that in a whole place of the Pole for six Months it setteth not, and riseth not to another. But in places in the Artick and Antartick Circle the Sun setteth not one Day in the Year, and one Day riseth not; but other Days it sets and riseth. That in Places seated without the Frigid Zone, that is, in the Temperate, or Torrid Zones, the Sun every Day riseth and setteth.

Chap. 25.—Folio 220.

TReats of the LONGITVDE of the Days in divers places of the Earth; and of the Division of the Earth into Climates, which proceed from them. That in two Days of the Year are the Aequinoxes, or the Night is equal to the Day in all places of the Earth. In places seated in the Aequator, the Days and Nights are always equal: In the places of the Poles there is only one Day and one Night in the whole Year: Now the Day is longer than the Night in [Page 114] the North Pole, and in the South Pole, the Day is shorther than the Night. In places lying beneath the Aequator, and the Pole, no Days are equal to the Nights, except the two Days of the Aequino­ctial, all the rest being either greater, or lesser than the Nights. In all places seated between the Aequator, and the Pole Artick, the longest Day and shortest Night, is when the Sun enters the first Degree of Cancer; and the shortest Day and longest Night, is when the Sun enters the first 10 Degree of Capricorn; but in the places seated be­tween the Aequator and the Antartick Pole, it is just contrary; And whilst the Sun in the Northern Places, moveth from the first Degree of Capri­corn, to the first of Cancer, the Days encrease; and whilst he moveth from the first of Cancer, to the first of Capricorn, decreaseth; but in Nor­thern Places quite contrary, encreasing from the first of Cancer to the first of Capricorn, and de­creasing from the first of Capricorn to the first of 20 Cancer. All places of the Earth, seated in one and the same Parallel have all the Days of the Year equal, and therefore the same quantity of the longest Day. If more places of the Earth, be taken from the Aequator towards the Pole, whose distance from the Aequator equally aug­menteth from one Degree to, 10, 20, 30, or 40, the longest Days in these places shall not be e­qually greater, or not equally augment; but they shall more augment in places more remote, and 30 where the place is more near the Pole. How to compose a Table of the Climates, with a Table thereof, and its use.

Chap. 26.—Folio 231.

TReats of the LIGHT, HEAT, COLD, and RAINS, in divers parts of the Earth, or Zones, with other Properties of the Zones, as the Seasons of the Year, and the 40 reason thereof. That in the places in the Tem­perate and frigid Zones, the Seasons of the Year, are almost equal, consisting of an equal number of Days; But in the places of the Tor­rid Zone, they are unequal. In places of the Torrid Zone, as the Sun by Day is very near the Vertex, so on the contrary by Night he is be­neath the Horizon, and very much removed from the Vertex of those places; so that those places by Night, lie almost in the middle Shadow of the 50 Earth; neither can the Air possibly any ways be warmed by the Suns Rays by frequent reflect­ion. In places of the Frigid Zone as the Sun by Day is not very nigh the Vertex, so by Night he doth not profoundly remain beneath the Ho­rizon; but for the greatest part of the Night doth so turn round beneath the Horizon, that many Rays from him by reflection do penetrate into the Air. And in places in the Temperate Zone, as the Sun by Day cometh to the Vertex, of those 60 places by a moderate vicinity, so by Night by an easy distance he is depressed beneath the Horizon; so that some Rays at least are in the Air. In Places of the Torrid Zone the Twilights are small, very long in those of the Frigid, and moderate in those of the Temperate Zone. Rea­sons given to shew how the four Seasons of the Year are made, and behave themselves, and in what Months of the Year they commence in the divers places of the Zones.

Chap. 27.—Folio 259.

TReats of the SHADOWS, which the Bodies erected in the Earth, and illumi­nated by the Sun do cast, and of the Division of the Earth, arising from thence. That Sha­dows of Bodies, erected above the Horizontal Plain, fall upon the Quarter opposite to it, in which the Sun existeth. In places seated in the Aequator the Meridian Shadow falls half the Year towards the North, the other half towards the South. In the places seated in the Aequator, the Shadow of the Stile perpendicularly erected in the whole Days of the Aequinoxes, remains in one right Line, whether before Noon, it be continually cast into one Quarter of the West, or after Noon into a Quarter of the East; Now in the other Days of the Year the Shadow is carried round into the Semicircle. The Longitude of the Shadows decreaseth, the Altitude of the Sun in­creasing; and on the contrary the Altitude of the Sun decreasing, the Shadow increaseth. By how much the places of the Earth, every Day are more remote from the Aequator, or from the Parallel of the Sun, by so much the more, both the Meri­dian Shadow as well as the Shadows of the rest of the Hours, are longer. Directions from the Ae­quinoctial NightDyal, as also the Horizontal Scioterick, or Horizontal Plain.

Chap. 28.—Folio 269.

TReats of the comparison of the CELS­TIAL AFFECTIONS, in divers places of the Earth; shewing that those who live in the same Semicircle of the same Meridian, have also the same Merides, or 12 Hours; and also reckon together all the other Hours. Those that dwell in divers Hemisphaeres of the Earth, which the Aequator makes, or those that live in the divers Quarters of the Aequator, have contrary Seasons of the Year, at the same time, and the same Seasons in a different time of the Year; so that in one Hemisphaere it is Winter, when in the other it is Summer. Those who live in the North Hemisphaere of the Earth, when they turn their Faces towards the Aequator, the East is on their left Hand, and the West on the right, the South before them, and the North be­hind them: And those that live in the South He­misphaere the Stars rise on their right Hand, and set on their left. Those who live in the same Parallel of the same Earth, have every Day and Night equal; every one of the Stars also remains an equal time above their Horizons, the same Stars never set, the same Stars never rise; the Sun every Day, and also all the Stars rise and set to them in the same Quarter; and in the same Hour also the Stars are equally elevated above the Horizon, or depressed beneath it; They have the same Pole equally elevated; their Faces being turned to the Aequator, or the same Pole, the Stars rise to them from the same side: they have the same Seasons [Page 115] of the Year, and at the same time, except the singular properties of some places.

Chap. 29.—Folio 272.

TRreats of the Computation of time in the divers places of the Earth, wherein are divers Questions stated, and resolved, concern­ing time, or the Hour of the Day of several Na­tions, and places.10

Chap. 30.—Folio 280.

TReats of the various rising, setting, Altitude of the Sun, and other appearances in the divers parts of the Earth; shewing how to place or hang a Terrestrial Globe so, that when the Sun shines, those parts of the Globe, may be illum­nated which the Sun enlightneth in the Earth, at any time; and that it also may appear, unto 20 what People the Sun riseth, and to whom it set­teth; to whom it makes the Meridies, and to whom it is quite absconded; to what place it is vertical. Also to find the place of the Sun in the Ecliptick, and the Day of the Year; Also the Hour of the place. That the Globe being so placed when the Moon shines, to whom it ariseth, to whom setteth, and to whom vertical. By how much the places of the Earth, are remote from the Parrallel of the Sun on any Day, by so 30 much the more the Sun is elevated to a lesser Altitude in the same Hours above their Horizons: Also by how much the places of the Earth are remote from the Aequator, or more near the Pole, by so much the more the Parts of the Horizon are distant, in which the Sun riseth on the Day of the Solstice, and the Day of the Winter; as also those in which he setteth: The same is true con­cerning the Moon, and all the Planets. Stars pla­ced between the Parallel of any place (being 40 without the Aequator) and the Pole, are less ele­vated above the Horizon, of the places between this Parallel, and the other Pole of those situated there, then above the Horizon of the places seat­ed between the Parallel, and the neerer Pole. In places seated in and near the Aequator, the Sun and Stars directly ascend above the Horizon, even to the Meridian, and so descend again: But in places above the Aequator they ascend and de­scend obliquely; and so much the more, by 50 how much the place is more remote from the Aequator. By how much the place is more re­mote from the Aequator, by so much the more the Signs of the Zodiack, and other Constellations, require the greater time to rise and set; and they pass through the Meridians of all places at an equal time, with several Questions laid down, and resolved, relating to the Rising, Setting, and Altitude of the Sun. 60

In the Third Part of GENE­RAL GEOGRAPHY, to wit, the Comparative Part, Treats of the Affections from comparing of Places.

Chap. 31.—Fol. 291.

TReats of the LONGITVDE of Places. Shewing, that Nature hath put no begin­ning or end to the Dimension of the Earth, or of the extension from West to East, or according to the Aequator; but all and every one of the Places may be taken for a beginning, and the first Meridian may be placed in them. The La­titude and Longitude of any place, or the distance of any place from the Aequator, or a certain Meridian being given, which is found in Maps, or Globes, to exhibit the Situation and Point of that place on the Maps, or Globes. The Sun, Stars, and all the Points conceived in the Hea­vens, are every Hour removed, or recede 15 De­grees from the Meridian of any place, in one Scruple of an Hour, which is the 1/60 part, they are removed 15 Minutes, and so in four Scruples they recede one Degree. With other Questions proposed, relating to the Longitude of Places.

Chap. 32.—Folio 309.

TReats of the mutual Situation of Places, and composition of the TERRESTRIAL GLOBE, and MAPS; Shewing, that a place being given in the Earth, how to find the Situa­tion of other places at that place. That a Place being given on the Earth, or Globe, to exhibit all those places, at which the given Place hath some one given Situation, or Quarter. Directions to make a Terrestrial Globe; and how to compose Geographical Maps.

Chap. 33.—Folio 335.

TReats of the Distance of Places; Shewing, That two Points or Places being given on the Globe, to draw a Line or Arch from one to the other, which may be part of the greatest Periphery of the Globe; or to describe on the Superficies or Periphery of the greatest Circle, which may pass through the two given Points. That the distance of two places on the Super­ficies of the Earth is very short, or the shortest way from one place to the other, is only one (except the places of the Antipodes) viz. the Arch of the greatest Periphery, which is intercepted between those two places. The Distances of Places are not changed. No Maps of the Earth are distant a greater Interval than 2700 German Miles, whereof 15 are said to be a Degree; for the Distance of the Antipodes is 2700 German Miles, or 180 Degrees. The reason why the Itinerary Distance is greater than the true, or short and Geographical. The Latitude and Lon­gitude [Page 116] of two places being given, to find their Distance.

Chap. 34.—Folio 342.

TReats of the Visible and Sensible HORI­ZON. That the Stature of a Man being given from the Foot to the Eye, and the Semi­diameter of the Earth being given, to find out the Semidiameter of the Sensible Horizon. The 10 Altitude of the Eye being given on a Tower, or Mountain, to find the Distance of the last point unto which the Eye extends it self, or which the Eye can see. The Altitude of the Eye being given, and of some erected seen Magnitude, as a Tower, Mountain, or the Mast of a Ship, to find the Distance thereof from that of the Eye. The Refraction of Rays in the Air, augmenteth the apparent Semidiameter of the Sensible Horizon. 20

Chap. 35.—Folio 342.

TReats of the three Parts of the Art of Navi­gation, to wit, the Building of Ships, Lading them, and guiding or Navigating them from Port to Port. And this concludes the first Part, viz. of Varenius's Cosmography, and Geography. 30

The Second Part, to wit, SAN­SONS GEOGRAPHY, viz. Special Geography, Treats of these following Heads.

THe Subject of Special Geography, is to de­scribe the Limits and Circumscription of Countreys, with their Latitudes, Longitudes, and Situation of Places; their Mountains, Vallies, Woods, Desarts, Forests; describing their Appel­lation, Situation, &c. their Properties, with the things contained in them, as Mines, Minerals, &c. Their Waters, as the Sea, Lakes, Rivers, and Marshes; shewing their Springs, Inlets, Tracts, Cateracts, with the quality and nature thereof; their Capes, Bays, Sea-Ports, Cities, Towns, &c. Their Fertility, Sterility, and Soil. Their Fruits, Cattle, Fowl, Fish, and Insects; Their Inhabitants, as to their Original, their Stature, Life, Meat, Drink, and Habits; Their Customs, relating to Marriages, Children, Funerals, Laws, Religions, Government; Their Language or Speech; Their Arts, Manufactures, Commodities, and Traffick; Their Military Discipline, Force, and Arms; Their Vertues and Vices, Genius and Erudition; Their Memorable Histories, with their Famous Men and Women, Artificers, Inventions, &c.

These and the like Heads, being the Subject of Special Geography, being too capacious to be hand­led in this small Tract, are thought fit rather to be omitted than to be only glanced upon; so that I refer the Reader to the above-said Book, as also to other famous Geographers; and so con­clude with some necessary and useful Tables.

  • [Page 117]The Earth is divided into Land, and Waters. The Su­perficies of the Earth extant out of the Wa­ter by the In­terflux of the Sea, is distin­guished into these four parts,
    • 1. Into great Conti­nents or great Islands, of which four are rec­koned by us.
      • 1. The Old World; whose parts are
        • Europe, Asia, and Africa.
          • The Bounds of this Continent are
            • On the North, the Frozen and Tartarian Ocean.
            • On the East, the Pacifick and Indian Ocean.
            • On the South, the Southern Ocean.
            • On the West the Atlantick Ocean.
      • 2. The New World, or America, whose parts are
        • Meridiona­lis,
        • Septentrio­nalis,
          • The bounds of it are
            • On the North, Davis Streights.
            • On the East, the Atlantick Ocean.
            • On the South, the Pacifick Ocean.
            • On the West, the Streights of Magel­lan.
      • 3. The Polary North-land, or Greenland, is every were encompassed by the Sea and Streights.
      • 4. The South-land, and Land of Magellen, yet undiscovered.
    • 2. Into Penin­suals, or Cher­sonesus, which are parts of those Con­tinents,
      • Round, whose Latitude and Longitude are equal about,
        • Africa it self.
        • Peloponesus, the Chersonesus of Grecia.
        • Chersonesus Taurica, or Tartaria Precopensis.
        • Cambaja.
      • Long, among which are
        • The Chersonesus of Malacca, adjoyning to India.
        • Cimbrica or Jutland, adhering to Holsatia.
        • Borea adjoyning to Tartaria.
        • The North and South parts of America.
        • California.
        • Jucatan.
        • The Chersonesus of Thracia.
        • Nova Francia.
        • Ionia, Cindensis, Mindensis.
      • Of Affinity to Peninsu­las,
        • Italy, Greece, Acaia, Spain, Norway, Sweden, Lapland, Asia mi­nor, Arabia, Beach a Region of Magellan, and New Guiney, Indostan, Cochinchina, New-England, Monomotapa, Camboia.
    • 3. I­slands, which may be consi­dered in four sorts, viz.
      • Great, as
        • England
        • Japan
        • Island
        • Canada
        • Sumatra.
          • Madagascar,
          • Borneo.
          • Nova Zembia.
          • California.
      • Indifferent, as
        • Sicilia
        • Ireland
        • Hispaniola
        • Cuba
        • Java Major
        • Celebes
        • Creet.
          • Luconia,
          • Sardinia,
          • Friesland,
          • Terra Nova,
          • Mindanoa,
          • Ceilan.
      • Small, as
        • Gilolo, Amboina, Timor.
        • Corsica, Majorca, Cyprus, Negropont.
        • Sealand, Jamaica.
      • The very small ones, in which we consider
        • 1. The more famous, Solitaria, Rhodes, Malta, Lemnos, Helena, St. Thomas.
        • 2. A knot, or heap of Isles together, as
          • The Canary Isles.
          • The Flandrian or Caribbe Isles.
          • The Hesperides.
          • Those of the Gulph of Mexico.
          • Of Maldives.
          • Of Japan.
          • About Madagascar.
          • The Mollucoes & Isles of Bauda
          • The Philippine Isles,
          • The Isles of Theeves.
          • The Isles in the Aegean Sea.
          • The Isles about England.
          • The Isles of Solomon.
    • 4. The Isthmusses,
      • Between Egypt and Arabia, or Africa and Asia.
      • That of Corinth between Peloponesus and Achaia.
      • The Isthmus of Panama or America the longest of all.
      • Between Jutland and Holsatia.
      • Between Malacca and India.
  • [Page 118]On, or a­bove the Surface of the Ter­restrial Globe, and Maps of the World, ought to be understood and noted,
    • Ten Points; of which
      • Four are called Cardinal Points, as
        • the North, or the Pole Artick,
        • the South, or the Pole Antartick,
        • the East.
        • the West.
      • Four are called Collateral Points, as
        • the East of the Summer,
        • the East of the Winter,
        • the West of the Summer,
        • the West of the Winter.
      • And two, as above and Under us; as
        • the Zenith,
        • the Nadir.
    • Ten Circles, or Lines, of which
      • Five are Parallels, the one to the other, as
        • the Aequinoctial, or the Aequator.
        • the two Tropicks, as
          • the Tropick of Cancer,
          • the Tropick of Capricorn,
        • The two Polar Circles, as
          • the circle of the Pole Artick,
          • the circle of the Pole Antartick.
      • Five others are different the one from the other, as
        • in the middle of the Zodiack, as the Ecliptick.
        • the Horizon, as
          • the Horizon rational,
          • the Horizon feasible, or visible.
        • the Parallels, or the Degrees of Latitude.
        • the Meridians, or the Degrees of Longitude.
    • Two Co­lures, in which are 4 Points, which note
      • our four Seasons of the year, to wit, above
        • the colures of the Aequinoxes, as
          • the Spring,
          • the Autumn.
        • the colures of the Solstices, as
          • the Summer,
          • the Winter.
        • one Torrid, or the Parching.
    • Three sorts of Zones, in which are five, to wit
      • two Temperate, as
        • the temperate Artick, or Northernly,
        • the temperate Antartick, or Southernly.
      • two Frozen, or Cold, as
        • the frozen Artick, or Northernly,
        • the frozen Antartick or Southernly▪
    • Three sorts of Shadows,
      • which diversly re­receive the Inhabi­tants of the five Zones, for they are
        • in the Torrid Zone Amphisciens.
        • in the Temperate Zones
          • Northernly, Northen Heterosciens,
          • Southernly, Southern Heterosciens.
        • in the Frozen Zones
          • Northenly, Northen Perisciens,
          • Southernly, Southern Perisciens.
    • 3 sorts of Positions, as
      • the Inhabitants about the same Parallel, opposite in Meridian, are Perioeciens.
      • the Inhabitants about one Meridian, opposed in their Parallels, are A [...]toeciens.
      • the Inhabitants opposed both in Meridians, and in Parallels, are Antipodes.
    • The Clima­tes; of which
      • the Ancients first made seven
        • which they call by the most famous Places, Seas, and Rivers, by which they passed; as
          • dia (that is▪ through) Mer [...]es,
          • dia Sienes,
          • dia Alexandrias,
          • dia Rhodo [...],
          • dia Pontou,
          • dia Boristeno [...].
      • then nine, in adding
        • dia Ripheon,
        • dia Danias.
      • the Moderns made 30, to wit
        • between the Aequator and the Polar Circle 24, by half Hours.
        • between the Polar Circle, and the Pole 6, by Months.
    • The Pa­rallels; which are
      • following the Ancients 14,
        • between the Aequator and Polar Circle 4 [...], by Quarters of Hours.
      • following the M [...]derns [...]0,
        • between the Polar Circle and the Pole 12, by Fourteen Days.
    • The Winds; whereof the
      • 4 Firsts, and whereof the names are Monosylla­bles, shall be called
        • Cardinal Winds, as
          • North,
          • South,
          • East,
          • West.
      • 4 Seconds, whereof the names are of two syllables, and composed of two of the four Firsts, shall be called
        • Collateral Winds, as
          • North-East,
          • North-West,
          • South-East,
          • South-West.
      • 8 Thirds; and have their names of three syllables, com­posed of one of the four First, and of one of the four Seconds, as
        • North North-East,
        • North North-West,
        • South South-East,
        • South South-West,
        • East North-East▪
        • East South-West,
        • West North-west,
        • West South-west.
        • North and a quarter by North east,
        • North, and a quarter by North-west,
        • North-east, and a quarter by North,
        • North-west, and a quarter by North.
      • 16 Fourths; taking their names from four Firsts, or four Seconds, in saying of one fourth part by the other, and that without having regard to the eight. Third Winds, &c. as it were
        • South and a quarter by South-east,
        • South, and a quarter by South-west,
        • South-east, and a quarter by South.
        • South-west, and a quarter by South.
        • East, and a quarter by North-east,
        • East, and a quarter by South-east,
        • North-east, and a quarter by east▪
        • South-east, and a quarter by east▪
        • West, and a quarter by North-west,
        • VVest, and a quarter by South-west,
        • North-west, and a quarter by west,
        • South-west, and a quarter by west.
    • The Mea­sures; in which are to be consi­dered, that
      • the least part that can be described upon the Terrestrial Globe, is a Point.
      • many Points, described and continued right the one to the other, make a Line.
      • twelve Lines, continued together, are esteemed to make an Inch, or Thumbs breadth.
      • twelve Inches, make a Foot.
      • two [...] and half make a common Pace, and two common Paces a Geometrical Pace.
      • one hundred twenty five Geometrical Paces, make a Stade, or certain measure of [...]round.
      • eight Stade [...], or one thousand Geometrical Paces, is one thousand Roman Paces, or the Italian Mile
      • one thousand fifty six Geometrical Paces make an [...]nglish Mile.
      • one thousand-two hundred sixty seven Paces make a Scotish Mile.
      • two thousand-four hundred, or 2500 Geometrical Paces, make a common League of France.
      • three thousand four hundred Geometrical Paces, or little more, make a Spanish League.
      • four thousand Geometrical Paces, make a Dutch League, or Mile.
      • five thousand Geometrical Paces, make a Swedish League, or Mile.
      • six thousand Geometrical Paces make an Hungarian Leagues, or Mile.
      • 24 or 25 French Leagues, or 60000 Geometrical Paces make, a degree of Latitude on the Aequator.
      • three hundred and sixty Degrees of Longitude on the Aequator, make the great Circle of the Terrestrial Globe.
      • the great Circle of the Terr, Globe, multiplyed by his Diameter, make the Superficies of the Terrestrial Globe.
  • [Page 119]The Terres­trial Globe hath all its Sur­face in
    • LAND, which discover­eth it self in
      • Two Conti­nents; whereof
        • Ours, or the most Ancient and Su­periour, contain­eth three great parts, to wit,
          • Europe; where the Kingdoms or Countreys of
            • Turkey in Europe,
            • France,
            • Germany,
            • Low Countreys,
            • Poland,
            • Scandinavi [...],
            • Russia, or Moscovi [...].
          • Asia; where are the Kingdoms or parts of
            • Turkey in Asia,
            • Arabia,
            • Persia,
            • India,
            • China,
            • Tartaria.
          • Africa; where are the Kingdoms or Countreys of
            • Barbary,
            • Biledulgerid,
            • Egypt,
            • Sara, or Desart of Saara,
            • the Land of the Negroes,
            • Guinee,
            • Nubia,
            • the Emperour of the Abyssines,
            • Zanguebar,
            • Congno,
            • Monomotapa.
            • Caffreria,
        • The other, or New and Inferiour, is called AME­RICA.
          • America Septentrionalis; where are the Kingdoms of
            • Canada, or New France,
            • New Mexico,
            • New Spain.
          • America Meridionalis; where are the Kings of
            • Peru,
            • Brazil,
            • Paragua.
      • Many Isles; of which the most fa­mous are
        • About our Con­tinent and
          • part of Europe; as those in
            • the Mediterranean Sea.
            • the VVestern Ocean, called the British
            • Isles.
          • part of Asia; as those of
            • Japon,
            • the Philippins,
            • the Moluccoes,
            • Sonde,
            • Ceyla [...], and the Maldives, &c.
          • part of Africa; as those of
            • Madagascar, or St. Lawrence,
            • St. Thomas.
            • Cape Verd,
            • the Canaries, &c.
        • Between one and the the other Continent; as the Azores,
        • About the o­ther Conti­nient, and
          • towards America Septentrionalis; as those of
            • Terra Neuves,
            • California,
            • the Antilles.
          • towards America Meridionalis; the Magell [...]nick Isles.
        • And in some Lands and Isles, the most part unknown, towards the one and the other Pole; among the which are
          • Groenland, Izland, &c.
          • Terra Australis, Nova Guiney, &c.
    • WATER; which is found in
      • SEA; and which may be called
        • Ocean, about our Continent,
          • Oriental, or Indian; where are the Seas of
            • China,
            • India,
            • Arabia.
          • Southern, or Aethiopian; where are the Seas of
            • Barbaria, or of Zanguebar,
            • Cafreria,
            • Congo.
          • Western, or Atlantick; where are the Seas of
            • Guinee,
            • Cape Verd,
            • the Canaries,
            • Spain,
            • France,
            • Great Britany.
          • Northern, or Frozen; where are the Seas of
            • Denmark,
            • Moscovy,
            • Tartaria.
        • Sea, about the o­ther Continents,
          • North-Sea, or Seas of
            • Canada, or New France,
            • Mexico, or New Spain,
            • Brazil.
          • Magellanick-Sea, or Seas of
            • Paraguay,
            • Magellanick.
          • Pacifick-Sea, or Seas of
            • Peru,
            • New Mexico.
        • Gulphs, or Seas,
          • between the Lands of our Continent
            • the Baltick Sea,
            • the Mediterranean Sea.
          • between the Lands of the other Continent
            • the Gulph of Mexico,
            • the Gulph of Hudson.
        • Lake, or Seas,
          • in the midst of our Continent, the Caspian Sea,
          • in the midst of the other Continent, the Lake, or Sea of Pa [...]ime.
        • Streights; to wit,
          • between the one and the other Contin. of Anian,
          • between the other Contin and the J. M. of Magellan.
          • between Europe and Africa of Gibraltar.
      • RIVERS; of which the most famous, are
        • In our Continent; as
          • In Europe,
            • the Tage,
            • the Loire,
            • the Rhine,
            • the Elbe,
            • the Danube,
            • the Boristene,
            • the Don, or Tauais,
            • the Volga.
          • In Asia,
            • the Tigre, and the Euphrates,
            • the Indus,
            • the Ganges,
            • the Quiam, or Jamsuquiam,
            • the Oby.
          • In Africa,
            • the Nile,
            • the Niger.
        • In America,
          • Septentrional; as
            • the River Canada, or St. Lawrence,
            • the River Paria, or Orinoque,
            • the River Amazones,
          • Meridional; as the River of Plates.
  • [Page 120]The Water in the surface of the Terre­strial Globe, is for the most part in
    • Seas; and which may be called
      • Ocean, and about our Conti­nent, to wit, the
        • Indian, or Eastern, where are the
          • Sea of China,
          • Indian Sea,
          • Arabian Sea.
        • Aethiopian, or Southern, where­in are the
          • Sea of Barbary, or of Zang [...]ebar,
          • Sea of Caffreria.
          • Sea of Congo.
        • Western, or Atlantick; where are the
          • Sea of Guinee,
          • Sea of Cape Verd.
          • Sea of the Canaries, or Gulph of Yeg [...]as,
          • Sea of Spain,
          • Sea of France,
          • Sea of Great Britain
        • Northern Frozen, or Scythick; where are the
          • Sea of Denmark, or Mourmanskoi-More,
          • Sea of Moscovy, or Petzorke-More,
          • Sea of Tartaria, or Niaren-More.
      • Sea, and about the other Conti­nent, to wit, the
        • North, or
          • Sea of Canada, or New France.
          • Sea of Mexico, or New Spain.
          • Sea of Brazil, or North-Sea.
        • Megalanick, or
          • Sea of Paraguay,
          • Magellanick Sea,
          • Sea of Chili.
        • South, or Pacifick; or
          • Sea of Peru, or South-Sea,
          • Sea of California, or New Mexico,
      • Between the one and the other Continent, and towards the Artick Pole, are
        • the Archipelague of St. Lazare,
        • the Sea of Groenland.
    • Bays, or Gulphs; among which
      • there, where the Ocean washeth them, and
        • about our Continent are these Gulphs and Seas, as the
          • Gulph of Nanquin,
          • Gulph of Cochinchina.
          • Gulph of Sian, or Cambogue,
          • Gulph of Bengala,
          • Gulph of Ormus, and Balsora,
          • Gulph of the Red-Sea, or Sea of Mecca,
          • Gulph of Aethiopia, or St. Thomas,
          • Gulph of Corea.
          • Sea of Guascagne,
          • White-Sea, or Bella-more.
      • there, where the Mediterranean Sea entreth, and
      • there, where the Baltick Sea entreth, and
        • within our Continent are these Gulphs and Seas, as the
          • Gulph of Lyon,
          • Gulph of Venice,
          • Archipelague, or White-Sea,
          • Sea of Marmora,
          • Black-Sea, or the Sea of Majeure,
          • Levant Sea.
          • Gulph of Bolnia,
          • Gulph of Findland,
          • Gulph of Rhiga,
          • Gulph of Dantzick,
          • Gulph of Lubeck.
      • there, where the Sea washeth them, and
        • about the other Continent are the
          • Gulph of Hudson,
          • Gulph of St. Lawrence,
          • Gulph of Mexico,
          • Gulph of Hondutas,
          • Gulph of Panama.
    • Streights; among which
      • there, where the Ocean and the Sea washeth, and
        • about the other Continent are these Streights, Seas, &c. as the
          • Streight of Anian,
          • Sea of Vermejo,
          • Streight of Magellan,
          • Nova Zembla,
          • Streight of Le Maire,
          • Channel of Bahama,
          • Streight of Hudson,
          • Streight of Davis.
        • about our Continent, are the
          • Streight of Nassau, or Vaygatz,
          • Pas, or Streight of Calais,
          • Streight of Bebelmandel,
          • Streight of Mocandan,
          • Streight of Manar,
          • Streight of Malace [...],
          • Streight of Sonde.
      • there, where the Baltick Sea is, and
      • there, where the Mediterranean Sea is, and
        • in our Continent are the
          • Streight of Sound.
          • Streight of Belt.
          • Streight of Gibraltar,
          • Fars, or Haven of Messi [...]s,
          • Euripe, or Tourn passage of Negroponte,
          • Streight of Gallipoli, or the Dardanelles,
          • Streight of Constantinople, or Channel of the Black-Sea,
          • Streight of Caff [...], or Vospero.
    • Lakes; and which may be called
      • Seas; as
        • in our Continent, the
          • Sea of Bachu, or Sala,
          • Sea of Zabaque, or Tana.
        • in the other Continent, the Lake, or Sea of Parime.
      • Lakes; as
        • in Europe, the
          • Lake of Earne,
          • Lake of Werner,
          • Lake of Ladoga,
          • Lake of Geneve,
          • Lake of Constance,
          • Lake of Balaton,
          • Lake of Majeur.
        • in Asia, the
          • Lake of Sodom, or the Dead-Sea,
          • Lake of Astamar, or Vasta [...],
          • Lake of Burgian,
          • Lake of Kithay,
          • Lake of Chiamay,
          • Lake of Cincui-Hay.
        • in Africa, the
          • Lake of Zaire, and Zambe [...]e,
          • Lake of Zafflan,
          • Lake of Niger,
          • Lake of Bouchaira.
        • in America
          • Septnonal, the
            • great Lake of Canada,
            • Lake of Mecho [...]can,
            • Lake of Chapal [...],
            • Lake of Mexico,
            • Lake of Nicaragua.
          • Meridional, the
            • Lake of Maracaybo,
            • Lake of Titicaca,
            • Lake of [...]upana, or [...] los [...]arajes.
  • [Page 121]The most famous RIVERS
    • In our Conti­nent, and its Isles, are, to­wit in
      • EUROPE, and in the Kingdoms, Countreys or Regions of
        • Spain; as
          • the Douro,
          • the Tagus,
          • the Guadian [...],
          • the Guadalquivir,
          • the Ebro; or Iberus,
        • Italy; as
          • the Tiber,
          • the Arno,
          • the Po.
        • Turkey in Europe; as
          • the Danube, or Donaw,
          • the D [...]in,
          • the Orfee, or Alfee,
          • the Vardar,
          • the Marize.
        • France; as
          • the Loire,
          • the Garone,
          • the Rhosne,
        • Low-Countreys; as
          • the Seyne.
          • the Eseault,
          • the Meuse.
        • Germany; as
          • the Rhine,
          • the Weser,
          • the Elbe,
          • the Oder.
        • Poland; as
          • the Weisser, or Vistule,
          • the Niemen,
          • the Duns, or Dawina,
          • the Niester,
          • the Nieper, or Boristene.
        • Sweden; as the Torne.
        • Moscovia; as
          • the Wolga,
          • the Dwine,
          • the Don, or Tana.
        • England; as
          • the Thames,
          • the Severn,
          • the Trent.
        • Scotland; as the [...]ay.
        • Ireland; as the Shennon.
      • ASIA, and in the Kingdoms, Countreys, or Regions of
        • Turkey, in Asia, as
          • the Euphrates, the Pactolus.
          • the Tyg [...]is, the Acheion,
          • the Jordaine, the Orontes,
          • the Lali, the Chrysorhous,
        • Georgia, as the Araxes, and the Farza.
        • Arabia, as the Caybar, and the Astau [...]
        • Persia; as
          • the Tirit [...]ri, the Gehun,
          • the Bendimir, and the Tostar.
        • India; as
          • the Indus, the Tapta,
          • the Ganges, the Gemeni,
          • the Mecon, and the Pegu.
        • China; as the Quiam, or Jamsuquiam.
        • Tartaria; as
          • the Oby, the Gehan,
          • the Tartar, the Palisanga,
          • the Jeniscey, the Albiamu,
          • the Chesel, and the Jaick.
      • AFRICA, and in the Kingdoms, Countreys, or Regions of
        • Morocco; as the Tensift, and the Susus.
        • Fez; as
          • the Ommiraby, Suba,
          • the Mullulus, and the Cherser.
        • Barbary; as
          • the Mulvia, the Maber,
          • the Magrada, the Capes,
          • the Rio Major, the Chol,
          • the Suffegmarus, the Masurius,
          • the Teffsisus, and the Min [...].
        • Aegypt; as the Nile.
        • Bilidulgerid; as
          • the Suz, the Buzedora,
          • the Darha, and the Albus.
        • Zaara; as the Ghir, and the Equestris.
        • the Negroes; as
          • the Niger, which is divided in
            • the Senega, the Gambia,
            • the Rio Grande, and the Cano.
        • Higher Aethiopia, as
          • the Quilmanci, Nubia,
          • the Zaire, and the Marabus.
        • Lower Aethiopia; as
          • the Zambere, divided in
            • the Curama, the Barame,
            • the Spiritu Sancto,
            • the Rio dos Infante [...].
    • In the o­ther Con­tinent, or in
      • AMERICA Septentrio­nale and in the King­doms, Coun­treys, &c. of
        • Canada, or New France; as those of
          • Canada, or St. Lawrence,
          • Toppahanock, Penobscot,
          • Pautunxat; Nansamud,
          • Chesapeac, or Pouhatan, May,
          • la Trinite, Apamatuck,
          • Pamanuc, and Patavomeck,
        • Florida; as those of
          • Rio de Flores: Rio de Spirito Sancto,
          • Rio de Neives, and Rio grande.
        • Mexico, or New Spain; as those of
          • Spiritu Sancto towards the East,
          • Spiritu Sancto towards the West.
          • Panuco, Guaxacoalco.
          • Baranja, Zacatula,
          • Desaguadero of Nicaragua.
      • AMERICA Meridionale, and in the Kingdoms, Countreys, &c. of
        • Terra Firma, Guiana, and Peru; as those of
          • Darien, Viapoco,
          • St. Martha, Cayanna,
          • Corritine, Brebice,
          • Ori [...]eque, Apuruvaca,
          • Essequebe, Madelai [...]e,
          • Desaguadero of Peru.
        • Brazil; as those of
          • Orethane, or the Amazon [...],
          • Maragnon, or Miari,
          • Taboucorou, Rio Janiero,
          • Rio grande, or Potengi,
          • Rio Real, Parayba.
        • Paraguay; as those of Paraguay, or de la Plat [...].
  • [Page 122]All the King­doms, Regions, Coun­tries, Isles, &c. in the World, may be compre­hended under these two Heads, viz.
    • Known
      • Ancient­ly, and in our Con­tinent; as
        • EUROPE, with its Kingdoms, Estates, Isles, &c. may be considered in three times three parts, and then
          • The three most Sou­thern parts, are the Kingdoms, Estates, and Isles of
            • Spain and Portugal, with its Isles of Majorca, Minorca, &c.
            • Italy, with its Estates and Isles of Sicily, Sardinia, Cor­sica, Isles of Naples, &c.
            • Turkey in Europe, with its Estates and Isles.
          • The three Innermost parts, and within the Continent, are the Kingdoms and E­states of
            • France.
            • Germany, and Belgium, with its several Estates; as the Swisses, the Grisons, &c.
            • Poland, with its several Estates, towards the Danube; as Transylvania, Moldavia, &c.
          • The three most Nor­thern parts, or King­doms and Isles of
            • Great Britain, and Ireland.
            • Scandinavia, or
              • Denmark,
              • Sweden,
              • Norway.
            • Moscovy, with its Dutchies and Kingdoms.
        • ASIA, with its King­doms, Coun­treys, Isles, &c. as they are found
          • In firm Land; as
            • Turkey in Asia, with its Countreys, Isles, &c.
            • Georgia.
            • Arabia.
            • Persia.
            • India, as it is divided into the
              • Empire of the Great Mogul.
              • Peninsula of India, within the Ganges.
              • Peninsula of India, without the Ganges.
            • China.
            • Tartaria.
            • the Land of Jesso.
            • the Land of Papous.
          • In Isles; as
            • In the Ocean; as the
              • Isles of Japon.
              • Isles of Larrons.
              • Isles of Sonde.
              • Philippine Isles.
              • Isles of Ceylan, and the Maldives.
            • In the Mediterranean Sea; as
              • in the Levant Sea.
              • in the Archipelago.
            • About China, Persia, Arabia, &c.
        • AFRICA, with its Kingdoms, Isles, &c. as it is divided and found in
          • Africa, or Lybia
            • Exterior, or outwards; as
              • Barbary,
              • Bilidulgerid,
              • Aegypt.
            • Interior, or inwards; as
              • Zaara, or Desart,
              • the Countries of the Negroes,
              • Guinee.
          • Aethio­pia,
            • Higher; as
              • Nubia,
              • Aethiopia, or the Empire of the Abyssines.
            • Lower; as
              • Congo,
              • Monomotapa,
              • Caffres.
          • And di­vers Isles, which are found
            • In the Mediterranean Sea; as the Isle of Malta, &c.
            • In the Western Ocean; as
              • the Canary Isles,
              • the Isles of Cape Verd,
              • the Isles of St. Thomas.
            • In the Eastern Ocean; as
              • the Isle of Madagascar,
              • the Isle of Zocotora, &c.
      • Lately, and in the other Conti­nent; as
        • AMERICA, with its Kingdoms, Regions, Countries, Isles, &c. as they are divided and found in
          • America Septen­trionale; as
            • Canadian, or
              • the Artick Lands; as
                • Groenland,
                • Estotiland,
                • Izland, &c.
              • Canada, or New France, with its Estates, Isles, &c. Florida.
            • Mexican, or
              • Mexico, or New Spain, with its Audiences of
                • Mexico,
                • Guadalajara,
                • Guatemala, and
                • St. Domingo.
              • the Caribbe Isles.
          • America Meridio­nale; as
            • Peruvian, or
              • Terra Firma, with its Estates, Provinces, and Isles.
              • Guiana.
              • Peru, with its Audiences of
                • Quito,
                • Lima,
                • De la Plata.
              • Chili, with its Jurisdictions.
            • Brasilian, or
              • Brazil, with its Capitanes,
              • Paraguay, or Rio de la Plata, with its Parts or Provinces
              • the Megallanick Land, &c.
    • Unknown, or not fully dis­covered, and li [...]th either under the
      • Artick, or Antartick
        • Circles; as
          • Nova Guinea,
          • Terra del Fuego,
          • Maletur.
          • Psittacorum Regio, and the like feigned Names and Places.
  • [Page 123]EUROPE, with its Kingdoms, Isles, &c. may be considered in three times three parts; and then
    • The three most Southern parts, are
      • SPAIN, with its Kingdoms or Principalities, &c.
        • Castile, Madrid,
        • Leon, Leon,
        • Navar, Pampelona,
        • Biscay, Bilboa,
        • Ast [...]rie, Ovideo,
        • Gallicia, St. Jago de Compostell [...],
        • Portugal, Lisbon,
        • Algarve, Pharo,
        • [...], Sevil,
        • Granada, Granada,
        • [...], Murcia,
        • Arragon, Caragosa,
        • Valencia, Valencia,
        • Ca [...]alonia▪ Barcelona,
        • the Isles of Baleares, Majorca.
      • ITALY, with its several Estates and Principalities; the Chief of which are
        • Pledmont, Turin,
        • Millain▪ Millain,
        • Genoua, Genoua,
        • Monteferat Alba,
        • Parma, Parma,
        • Mantua, and Modena, Mantua,
        • Venice▪ Venice,
        • Placenza, Placenza,
        • Toscany, Florence,
        • Estates of the Church, Rome,
        • Trent, Trent,
        • Naples, Naples,
        • Isle of Sicily, Messina,
        • Isle of Sardiny, Calari,
        • Isle of Corsica, Bastia.
      • TURKEY, (in EUROPE,) with its several E­states; the Chief of which are those of
        • Bosnia, Jay [...]za▪
        • Transilvania, Waradin,
        • Servie, Belgrad,
        • Bulgaria, Sophia,
        • Moldavia, Zaccania,
        • Walachia, Targovisco,
        • Romania. Constantinople,
        • Macedonia, Salon [...]chi,
        • Albania, Durazzo,
        • Thes [...]alie, Ar [...]icho,
        • Epi [...]e, Ferveza,
        • Achaia, Selines,
        • Peloponnesus, Fetras,
        • Dalmatia, Rhag [...]sa.
        • Sclavonia, [...],
        • Illyris, Zatha,
        • Croatia, Wi [...]itz.
    • Toge­ther with several Isles, as they lye in the
      • Aegean, or Grecian Seas, as Negropont, Crete, the Isles of Cyclades, & Sporades.
      • Ion [...]an Seas, as Zant, Zeffalonia, Cor [...]u, and C [...]rigo.
      • Adriatick Seas, as Zara, Lesina, Curzoia, Lissa, Vegea, and Cherso▪
    • The three In­nermost parts, and within the Con­tinent, are
      • FRANCE, with its Twelve Governments, or Gene­ral Estates; viz.
        • Picardy, Amien [...],
        • Normandy, Roan, or Rov [...],
        • Isle of France, Paris,
        • Champagne, Troy [...],
        • Bretagne, Nantes,
        • Orlenois, Orleance,
        • Bourgogne, Dijon,
        • Lyonnois, Lyon,
        • Guye [...]ne and Gascogne, Bourdeaur,
        • Languedoc, Toulouse,
        • Provence, Marseille,
        • Daup [...]n, Grenoble.
      • The several Estates, which lye be­tween
        • France,
          • the Cathol. Low Country Anvers,
          • Lorrain, Metz,
          • the French County, Besans [...]ns,
          • Savoy, Cambery.
        • Germany,
          • the Low Countreys, or Amsterdam,
          • the United Provinces, Rotte [...]dam,
          • the Swisses, [...]
          • the Grisons, Coire.
      • GERMANY, with its several Estates and Principa­lities; the Chief of which are
        • On this side the Rhine, Antwerp,
        • Upon the Rhine, Strasbourg,
        • Westphalia, Munster,
        • Franconia, Noremberg,
        • Sovabe, Ausbourg,
        • Bavaria, Munchen,
        • Austria, Vienna,
        • Bohemia, Prague,
        • Higher Saxony, Dris [...]en,
        • Brandenbourg, Berlio,
        • Pomerania, Stet [...],
        • Lower Saxony, Hamburgh.
      • POLAND, with its several Estates; the Chief of which are
        • Polonia, Cracow,
        • Prussia, Dant [...]ick,
        • Mazovia, War [...]aw,
        • Lithuania, Wilna,
        • Volhynia, Kyo [...]ia,
        • Cujavia, Brez [...]ti,
        • Polaquie, Biel [...]k,
        • Podolia, Kam [...]eniec,
        • Russia Nigra, Loewenberg.
      • And some Estates or Principalities, towards the Danube and Black Sea; as
        • Hungaria, Buda,
        • Transylvania, Hermenstat,
        • Valaquie, Targovisco,
        • Moldavia, Soczowa,
        • Little Tartaria, Nigropoli,
    • The three most Nor­thern parts, King­doms and Isles, are
      • SCANDINAVIA; where are the Kingdoms and Estates of
        • Danemark,
          • Danemark, Copenhaguen,
          • Norway, Trondhem▪
          • Gothland, Calmar,
        • Sweden,
          • Sweden, Stockholm,
          • Lapland, Loisby,
          • Gothland, Abo,
          • Livo [...]ie, Riga.
          • Ingria, Nottebourg,
      • MOSCOVIA; with its several Kingdoms, Dutches; and Provinces; the Chief of which are
        • Moscovy, Mosco,
        • Wolomodire, Wolodomer,
        • Dwine, St. Michal Archangel,
        • Caz [...]n (Kingdom) Caza [...],
        • Astracan (Kingdom) Astracan.
      • The ISLES of GREAT BRITAIN; where are the Kingdoms of
        • England, London,
        • Scotland, Edinburgh,
        • Ireland, Dublin.
  • [Page 124]ASIA, as it is divi­ded into
    • Firm Land whereof the principal Parts are,
      • TURKEY in ASIA, which comprehendeth the parts and chief places of
        • Anatolia,
          • Smyrna,
          • Ephesus,
          • Pergama,
          • Burs [...]a,
          • Scutari,
          • Tocat.
        • So [...]rie,
          • Jerusalem
          • Aleppo,
          • Tripoli,
          • Damascus,
          • Sayd.
        • Diarbeck,
          • Caraemit,
          • Bagded,
          • Balsora.
        • Turcoma [...]ie,
          • [...]rzerum,
          • Car [...].
          • Derbent.
      • GEORGIE; which comprehendeth the parts and chief places of
        • Mingtelle,
          • Phazza.
          • Savatoplly.
        • Gurgistan Cori.
        • Quirls,
          • Chipeche.
          • Stranu.
        • Avogasis, St. Sophia,
        • Little Turcomanie, Derbent.
        • Comanis, Asof,
      • ARABIA; with its parts and chief places of
        • Arabia the Stony,
          • Busseret.
          • Mo [...]b.
        • Arabia the Desert, Anna.
        • Arabia the Happy,
          • Medina.
          • Mecca,
          • Zibit.
          • Aden.
      • PERSIA; with its chief Provinces and place of
        • Servan, Tauris.
        • Gilan, Raft.
        • Gorgian, Gorgian,
        • Churdistan, Choy.
        • Ayrack,
          • Hispahan,
          • C [...]sbin.
        • Ch [...]r [...]zan, Kayen
        • Dilemon, Allamoed.
        • Chu [...]stan, Souster.
        • Tabarestan, Asterabad.
        • [...]ar [...], Chiraef.
        • Kherman, Giroft.
        • Rhoemus, Bestan.
        • Sablestan, Zarans.
        • Tocharestan, Thaalan,
      • INDIA, as it is divided into the
        • Empire of the GREAT MOGOL; wherein are comprehended divers King­doms, the chief of which are
          • Attock, Attock.
          • Cabul, C [...]bul.
          • Lahor, Lahor.
          • Delly, Delly.
          • Agra, Agra.
          • Malway, Rantipore.
          • Guzurate, or Cambaya
            • Surat,
            • Cambaya.
          • Bengala, Bengala.
          • Decan, Goa.
        • Penisula of INDIA without the Ganges, with its several Kingdoms, &c. the chief of which are,
          • Golconda, Golconda.
          • Bisnagar,
            • Bisnagar,
            • Harsingue
          • Malabar, Calicut.
        • Peninsula of INDIA within the Ganges; with its Kingdoms and chief places of
          • Pegu,
            • Pegu,
            • Boldia.
          • Siam, Banckock.
          • Malacca, Malacca.
          • Cochin [...]hin [...], Pulocacein.
          • Tunqui [...], [...]eccio.
      • CHINA; with its chief Provinces and Cities of
        • Pequin, Pequin.
        • Nanquin, Nanquin.
        • Scianton, Xanton.
        • Quicheu, Quicheo.
        • Canton, Canton.
        • Chequian, Cheiquian.
      • TARTARIA; with its five Parts, and chief places of
        • Tartaria Deserta, Cumbalich.
        • Usbeck, Jarcham.
        • Tutchestean, Chialis.
        • Cathay, Cambalu.
        • True Tartaria, Tartar.
    • ISLES, to­wit,
      • In the Ocean; as the
        • Isles of JAPON; as
          • Niphon, Meaco.
          • Xicoco, Sanuqui.
          • Ximo, Bungo.
        • PHILLIPPINE Isles; as
          • Luson, Luson.
          • Mindanao, Mindana [...].
        • Isles of MOLUCCO'S; as
          • Molucques, Gamma,
          • Celebes, Celebes.
          • Gilolo, Gilolo.
        • Isles of SONDE; as
          • Sumatra,
            • Achem.
            • Arun.
          • Borneo, Bortneo.
          • Java,
            • Bantam,
            • Jac [...]tra.
        • Isles of LARRONS, or THEVES, Deserte.
        • Isles of CEYLAN, Colombo.
        • Isles of the MALDIVES, Tills don Matis.
      • In the Medi­terranean Sea; as
        • In the LEVANT Sea; as
          • Cyprus, Famagouste.
          • Rhodes, Rhodes.
          • Scarpanto, Scarpanto,
        • In the ARCHIPELAGO; as
          • Scio, Scio.
          • Tenedos, Me [...]elin.
          • Samo, Samo.
          • Nicari [...], Nicaria.
          • Lango, Lango.
          • Stampalia, Stampalia.
          • Pathmos, Pathmos.
          • Negropont, Col [...]his.
          • Coos, Coos.
          • Lero. Lero.
  • [Page 125]AFRICA, as it is di­vided into
    • AFRICA, or LYBIA,
      • Exteriour, or Outward, and com­prehendeth
        • BARBARY, which containeth the Kingdoms of
          • Morcco,
            • Morocco,
            • Elmadina.
          • Fez,
            • Fez,
            • Almansor,
            • Saly.
          • Telensin, Telensin.
          • Algier,
            • Algier,
            • Telensin,
            • Bug [...]a.
          • Tunis,
            • Tunis,
            • Urba.
          • Tripoli, Tripolis.
          • Barca, Barca.
          • Desart of Barca, Ammon.
        • BILIDULGERID, which containeth several Kingdoms and Provinces, the chief of which are
          • Sus, or Tesset,
            • Tesset,
            • Nun.
          • Darha, Darha.
          • Segellomessa, Segellomessa.
          • Tasilet, Tasilet.
          • Tegorarin, Tegorarin.
          • Zeb,
            • Peschara,
            • Nesta.
          • Bilidulgerid,
            • Fezzen,
            • Gademes.
        • EGYPT, which is divided in
          • Sayd, or Bechria, Cairo.
          • Er [...]if,
            • Alexandria,
            • Rosetta.
          • Coast of the Red Sea,
            • Sues.
            • Grodol.
      • Interiour, or Inwards, and com­prehendeth
        • ZAARA, or SAARA, where are the Kingdoms and Cities of
          • Zanhaga, Tegassa.
          • Zuenziga, Zuenziga.
          • Targa, Targa.
          • Lempta, Lempta.
          • Berdoa, Berdoa.
          • Gaoga, Goaga.
          • Borno, Borno.
        • The Land of NE­GROES, where are the Kingdoms, People, or Countries
          • On this side the Niger, as of
            • Gualate, Gandia.
            • Genehoa, Ge [...]choa.
            • Tombut, Tombotu.
            • Agades, Agades.
            • Canun, Cano.
            • Cassena, Cassena.
            • Gangara, Gangara.
          • Between the Branches of the Niger, as of
            • The Jaloses People, Solul.
            • The Biatares People, Biatares.
            • The Sousos People, Beria.
          • Beyond the Niger, as of
            • Melli, Melli.
            • Manding [...], Manding [...].
            • Gago, Gago.
            • Guber, Guber.
            • Zegzeg, Zegzeg.
            • Zansara, Zan [...]ara.
        • GUINEE, with its Kingdoms, Parts, and Chief Places of
          • Melegutte,
            • Bugos,
            • Bagga.
          • Particular Guinee, or the Ivory Coast,
            • St. George de la Min [...].
            • Cape of Palmes.
          • Benin, Benin.
    • AETHIO­PIA,
      • Higher, or under E­gypt, and compre­hendeth
        • NUBIA, where are the Kingdoms, Countries, and Cities of
          • Bugia, Bugia.
          • Jalac, Jalac.
          • Nuabia, Nuabia.
          • Dancala, Dancala.
          • Cusa, Cusa.
          • Gorham, Gorham.
          • Damocla, Damocla.
          • Somn [...], Somna.
        • The Empire of the ABISSINES, where are several Kingdoms, Countries, and Cities; the chief of which are
          • Tigremahon, Charumo.
          • Barnagasso, Barv [...].
          • Angota, Angotina.
          • Dancala, Deg [...]beldara.
          • Amara, Amara.
          • Bagamedri, Baza.
          • Ambian, Amasen.
          • Damute, Damute.
          • Agag, Agag.
          • Cafates, Cafates.
          • Narea, Zeb.
          • Ambiam, Ambiam.
        • ZANGUEBAR, which is di­vided into
          • Zauguebar, with its King­doms and Cities of
            • Mozambique,
            • Quilo [...],
            • Quilmanca.
          • The Coast of AJAN, with its Kingdoms and Cities of
            • Adea,
            • Adel,
            • Magadoxe.
          • The Coast of ABEX, with its chief Places and Isles of
            • Arquico.
            • Saquen.
      • Lower, or Interiour, and com­prehendeth
        • CONGO, with its several King­doms or Provinces; the chief of which are
          • Loango, Loango.
          • Pemba, Pemba.
          • Angola, Engaze.
          • Bamba, Bamba.
          • Songo, Son [...]o.
        • The Coast and Country of CAFRES, with its several Estates, Kingdoms, Capes, Ports, and Isles; the chief of which are the
          • Cape of Good Hope,
          • Cape of St. Nicholas,
          • Port of Carascalis.
          • Isle [...] or St. Christophers,
          • Isles of St. Lucia.
        • MONOMOTAPA, with its Kingdoms and chief Places of
          • Monomotapa, Monomotapa.
          • Butua, Butua.
          • Monoemugi, Agag.
          • Zefala, Zesala.
          • Chie [...]nga, Zimb [...]os.
    • In divers ISLES
      • In the Mediterranean Sea,
        • Malta, Valetta.
        • Goza, Goza.
      • In the Western Ocean, as the
        • Canary Isles, Canaria.
        • The Isles of Cape Verd, St. Jago.
        • The Isle of St. Thomas, Pavoasan.
      • In the Eastern Ocean, as
        • Madagascar,
          • Vingagor [...],
          • Tombaja.
        • Zocotora, Zocotora.
  • [Page 126]AMERI­CA, as it is divided into
    • SEPTEN­TRIONAL, which may be divided into
      • CANADI­ANE, where there shall be
        • The ARTICK LANDS, as
          • Iseland—Belle sted
          • Groenland, Beareford.
          • North Wales, Sea-horse-point.
          • South Wales, Hudsons Bay.
        • CANADA, or NEW FRANCE, whose chief Parts and People are those of
          • Estotiland, Hope-advanced.
          • [...]aguanay, Quebeck
          • Canada, Mont-Real.
          • Acadie, Martengo.
          • New England,
            • Boston,
            • Plimouth,
            • Cambridge.
          • Mary Land, Marles Town.
          • New York, New York.
          • Virginia,
            • James Town,
            • Elizabeth Town.
          • Carolina, Charles Town.
          • The Hurons, St. Peter.
          • Isle of Bermudas, Southampton.
          • Florida,
            • St. Helens,
            • Port Royal.
      • MEXICA­NE, with its Audiences, Provinces, &c. of
        • MEXICO, with its Provinces and chief Places of
          • Mexico, Mexico.
          • Panuco, Panuco.
          • Mechoacan, Mechoacan.
          • Thascal [...], Thascal [...].
          • Guaxaca, Antequera.
          • Tabasco, No sen. de la Victoria.
          • Jucatan,
            • Merida,
            • Campeche.
        • GUADALAJARA, with its Provinces of
          • Guadalajara, Guadalajara.
          • Xalisco, Compoflella.
          • Chlametian, St. Sebastian.
          • Culiacan, St. Michael.
          • Cinaloa, St. John.
          • Los Zacatecas, Zacatecas.
          • New Biscay, St. John.
          • Qulvira, St. Fee.
          • Anlan, anlan.
          • Cibola, Cibola.
          • California, Port de Moniere.
          • Guatemala, St. Jago de guate mal [...].
        • GUATEMALA, with its Provinces of
          • Vera Pax, Vera Pax.
          • Soconusco, Guevet lan.
          • Chiapa, Cul dad Real.
          • Honduras, Valladolid.
          • Nicaragua, Leon.
          • Costarica, Cartago.
          • Veragua, la Conception.
        • St. DOMINGO, with its Isles, the chief of which are
          • Cuba, St. Jago.
          • Jamaica,
            • Port Royal,
            • Sevilla.
          • Hispaniola,
            • St. Domingo,
            • Porto del la Plata.
          • Soana, St. Germaine.
          • Barbados, St. Michaels.
          • St. Christopher, Sandy-Point.
    • MERIDI­ONAL, which may be divided into
      • PERUVI­ANE, where there shall be
        • TERRA FIRMA, with its Provinces, &c. of
          • Panama, Panama.
          • Carthagena, Carthagena.
          • St. Martha, St. Martha.
          • Rio de la Hacha, Rio de la Hacha.
          • Venezula, Venezula.
          • New Andalousis, Comana.
          • Paria, Macureguara.
          • Caribes, Taupuramenen.
          • Gulans, Macureraway.
          • Popayan, St. Fee de Antiochia [...]
          • Granads, St. Fee de Bogata.
          • Peru, Quito.
      • PERU, with its Audiences of
        • De los Quixos, Baesa.
        • Pasamores, Loyola.
        • Lima,
          • Lima,
          • Cusco.
        • De la Plata, De la Plata.
    • BRAZI­LIENE, where there shall be
      • BRAZILE, with its Capi­taines, or Governments of
        • Chill, Coplapo.
        • Magellanick Land, St. Philip.
        • St. Vincent, Sanctos
        • Rio Janiero, Sebastian.
        • Spiritu Sancto, Spiritu Sancto.
        • Porto Seguro, Porto Seguro.
        • Los Isleos, Los Isleos.
        • Baya de los Sanctos, St. Salvador.
        • Seregippe, Seregippe del Rey.
        • Fernambuco, Ollnda.
        • Tamaraca, Tamaraca.
        • Parayba, Parayba.
        • Rio Grands, De los tres Reys.
        • Slara, Sara.
        • M [...]r [...]kan, Junipara.
        • Para, Para:
      • PARAGUAY, or RIO de la PLATA, with its Pro­vinces, &c. of
        • Paraguay, Paraguay.
        • Chaco, Chaco.
        • De la Plata, Assumption:
        • Tucoman, St. Jago del Estera.
        • Urvalg, Ia Conception.
        • Parana, St. Ignatious.
        • Guayr, Orided Real.

NAVIGATION

To ye Hon.ble Arthur Herbert Esq Admirall and comander in cheife of his Majestyes fleet in ye Mediterra: nean and one of ye Comissioners of the Admirally &c. Thi [...] Plate is Humbly dedicated by Ric: Blome

NAVIGATION.

CHAP. I.
The Introduction.

NAVIGATION, is an Art containing certain Rules, necessary to be known by every Seaman that undertakes to Guide or Conduct a Ship, from one Port to another.

There are two sorts of Navigation, the one 10 short and common, that is, Stearing a Ship from Port to Port, along the Coast, seldom Losing sight of Land; and this is termed Coasting. The other part of Navigation, is Great and Artificial, for that it undertakes large Voyages, and requires more knowledge, and experience.

Every Skilful Navigator ought to be expert in most of the Mathematicks, and in particular in the use of the Globes, Sphaere, the Compass, Card for the Soundings, the Astrolabe or Astronomical Ring, 20 the Quadrant, Cross-Staff, the use of the Calender, to know the use of the Golden-Number, and Epact, whereby to find the New Moons, and her Ages; the time of Full-Sea, and Low-Water, the Spring and Ebb or Neap-Tide, the force of the Currents, with the time to enter into any Port, which must be know as to their situation, the depths of their Water, their Rocks, Sands, Clifts, Shoals, &c. likewise the use of the Tables of Amplitude, with the Senical Quadrant, Gunters Scale, or the 30 like, to reduce their several Courses, and to cor­rect them. Also to be expert for the finding out the Variation of the Compass, for the rectifying the Courses. To conclude, Every Captain, or Master ought, besides the knowledge of the a­foresaid things, to be expert in the Calculating the Declination of the Sun, and Stars, with their right Ascensions, and Amplitudes, their Azimuth, and other Astronomical, and Geometrical Practices, relating to this Art, which you will find in o­ther 40 Tracts apart, wherefore omitted here.

This Art of Navigation is copious, requiring a larger Discourse than this Work will admit of; wherefore I shall treat of such things as are most essential, referring you to the many Volums, that are published of the teaching the said Art; and in particular to a Volum lately printed, entituled, The whole Art of Navigation, in five Book [...], written by Captain Daniel New-House, being a Work of much esteem, and worth the 50 buying; and having perused the said Book, I have made use of some things in this following Treatise, referring you to the Book it self.

Also there are other things that relate to this Art, which are here omitted, as being Treated of in other Parts, and in particular in Geometry, and Cosmography or Astronomy, and Geography, to which I refer the Reader.

CHAP. II.
Of the several sorts of Instruments useful in Navigation.

BEfore I proceed to this Art, it will be con­venient to give an Account of the Instru­ments most useful, with some directions for the attaining to the knowledge thereof, for that without them a Pilot cannot perform his Voy­age. I shall not here insert the Figures of the said Instruments, thinking it better to be supply­ed with them from the Shops, as being more effectual.

The COMPASS, is an Instrument of great use in this Art, distinguishing the Horizon into all the parts that are required for the perfect use of Navigation, which are divided into 32 Parts or Points, in the Compass, bearing the Names of so many Winds, as appears by the Figure thereof.

[figure]

[Page 128] The use of these Points are to direct the Pilot by Horizontal Travers, how to conclude the Course of his Ship, to recover and arrive at the place desired, knowing in what part of the Ho­rizon the place desired for lieth in, and by that (and the use of the said Compass) they attain the same; for the Wind receiveth its name from that part of the Horizon from whence it blow­eth: And observe, that the Point of the COMPASS doth stand full North, by which 10 all the other parts of the Horizon are found out, which said North-Point (for your better distin­ction) is always marked with a Flower-de-Lis.

There are two things chiefly to be observed in the Compass: First, That it be good, and true made; and in particular, that the Flower-de-Lis, or Needle, be exactly under the North and South Line; that the other Rhumbs be true pla­ced, that the Socket be placed in the right Center 20 of the Card; that the Point of the Pin of the Compass be not Blunt, or Rusty; that the Card may have a free Motion upon it, and be placed perpendicular in the midst of the Box, which said Pin should be made of Brass, Tin, or Copper; but not of Steel, or Iron, and indeed neither Steel nor Iron must be used in any part of the Compass, neither should it be placed near Guns, or other things of Iron; that the Needle be well touched with a good Load-Stone. 30

The use of the Compass, is to shew at any time on what part of the Horizon, the North, South, East, West, and all other Rhumbs are, by looking on the Lines drawn on the said Compass, which represent the several Courses; therefore the Names of the said Points must be well learn'd by Heart, and to know them so soon as you cast your Eye on your Compass. You must know what Point of the Compass the Wind blows over; For Example, If the Wind be North, it blows 40 over the Flower-de-Lis towards the South, and so of the rest. You must likewise know how to set the Sun, and any Point of Land, by the Compass: And lastly, you must understand how the Ship Capes, that is, what Point of the Com­pass looks strait towards the Head of the Ship; for if you Steer your Course full East, that Point on your Compass must be exactly towards the Head of your Ship, which you must always observe.50

The CROSS-STAFF is chiefly to take the Altitude of the Sun or Stars, as also the distance betwixt two Stars, which may be performed either by a forward or backward Observation.

The Cross-Staff consists of a strait square gra­duated Staff, and four Crosses of different Lengths, viz. First, The Ten-Cross, which belongs to that side of the Staff called the Ten-Side, where the Graduations begin at about 3 Degrees, and pro­ceeding towards the Center, or Eye-end, encrease 60 (by 10 Minutes) to 10 Degrees. Secondly, The Thirty-Cross, which belongs to the Thirty-Side of the Staff where the Divisions or Graduations be­gin at 10 Degrees, and end at 30. Thirdly, The Sixty-Cross, which belongs to the Sixty-Side, where the Graduations begin at 20 Degrees, and end at 60. And Fourthly, The Ninety-Cross, which belongs to the Ninety-Side, and where the Graduations begin at 30 Degrees, and end at 90 Degrees. And sometimes the several Sides of the Staff are numbred with their Complements to 90; as against 10 stands 80.

For the knowing how to hold your Staff to make your Observations, find the Center of your Eye, thus; Put on the 60 and 90 Crosses on their proper Sides, placing them exactly upon 45 Degrees of each proper Graduation; then bring the end of your Staff to rest upon the out-Corner of your right Eye; and if you can see each end of the two Crosses in a right Line one with another, then the Staff stands Parallel with the Center of your Eye, and so hold it every time you take your observation.

Although there are four Crosses, they are not to be used altogether, but severally, according as the Altitude or Distance you are to observe is greater or smaller: For Example, If above 60 Degrees, the Ninety-Cross; if above 30 Degrees, but less than 60, the Sixty-Cross; if above 10 Degrees, but less than 30, then the Thirty-Cross; and if less than 10 Degrees, then the Ten-Cross must be used.

For the taking the height of the Sun with the Cross-Staff, put the Traversary upon the Long Staff; then set the end of the Long Staff close to the Corner of your Eye, as aforesaid, winking with the other, and removing the Transversary forwards and backwards until you perceive the lower end thereof to be just with the middle of the Horizon, and the upper end just with the middle of the Sun, both agreeing with the Sun and the Ho­rizon at one time; and thus have you the exact height of the Sun. This done, yet observe the same until you see the Sun at the highest, and so begin to descend.

And observe, that it is best to take the height of the Sun when it is under 50 Degrees in height above the Horizon; for until you come to 50 Degrees, the Degrees are larger marked upon the Cross-Staff, than after 50 Degrees. Also the Sun being under 50 Degrees in height, you may soon­er take the height thereof, by reason of your easier seeing and viewing the upper and lower ends of the said Staff both at one time; but when it surpasses 50 Degrees 'tis not so certain, because the Degrees are smaller marked; and then the Astrolabe is most true and certain, which shall be next treated of.

The ASTROLABE: For this you ought to be very careful to have one that is good and true, for the knowledge of which observe these Dire­ctions. Hold it as in time of Observation; then let fall a Thread with some Lead at the end, from the Point which represents the Zenith, and if the Thread pass over the Center of the Astro­labe and the Point, or cover the Line, 'tis a sign it is good, for it must always hang so when you observe the Suns Altitude.

Then observe, that the Horizontal Line be parallel to the Horizon, wherefore placing your Label exactly upon the Horizontal Line, look through the two Sights on any sensible Point of the Horizon; then turning your Instrument so that the Sight that was next your Eye be now [Page 129] farthest from you without moving, or altering the Label from the Horizontal Line; then look again, and if you can see the same Point as before through the two sights, 'tis a sign the Horizontal Line of your Astrolabe is parallel to the Hori­zon.

The Lines drawn from the Center of the Astrolabe, divide the Circumference of the Heavens in the same manner as it divides the Circumference of the Astrolabe; for all Circles that 10 have the same Center, are divided in the same manner, by the Lines drawn from the common Center.

This Instrument is divided into as many equal parts as the Heavens, viz. 360 Degrees, how­ever a quarter part is sufficient.

The use of this Instrument is easy, there be­ing no more than to hold it so with your left Thumb through the Ring, that it may have a free Motion, so that the Horizontal Line may be 20 parallel to the Horizon; then turn your right Side, and the Graduated part of the Astrolabe so to the Sun, that the Sun shine neither on the one, nor the other side: Then lift up the Label with your right Hand, until the Sun Beams en­tring through the Hole in the lower Sight, and the Label will shew the Suns Altitude above the Horizon. And if you count from the Horizon­tal Line to the Label, from the Zenith to the Label, it will be the distance of the Sun from 30 the Zenith. But be sure that the Astrolabe doth hang upright, otherwise you will be at a great loss.

It is also covenient to know the true Meridian at Sea, for Sayling far East, or West, the Com­pass varieth; therefore to know the same, do thus: Set the Sun with your Compass at its rising above the Horizon, and then (knowing what Part and Point the Sun riseth at) set the Sun with the Compass at the departing under the Horizon, which being found out, you shall under­stand 40 whether the Compass be varied, and how much, by the dividing the Piece of the Circle, con­tayned between the rising and setting of the Sun, in­to two equal parts; for the right Line drawn from the Center of the Fly through the Point of the partition, expresses the true Meridian, and the proportion of the Circle contained between the said Line, and the South Point of the Compass shews the quantity of the Variation.

The QVADRANT is an Instrument that 50 contains the 4th part of a Circle, which is 90 De­grees, and represents the distance between the Horizon and the Zenith. This Instrument is of much use upon Land, whereby many Observati­ons are performed, but is now not much used at Sea; The Figure of the Quadrant is made use of in the Treatise of Geometry, and therefore omit­ted here.

The SEA-CHART, or MERCATORS 60 CHART, is an Instrument by which the Mariner guids the Ship, from place to place, by such Courses as by the Chart are laid down; and for the understanding thereof observe these or the like Directions; First, That the Latitudes of such places as are within the Chart, be well known according as they are exprest in the said Chart. Secondly, That the Countreys, or Georgra­phy of the Chart, be known, with the Capes, Bays, Promontories, Havens, Ports, Rocks, Sands and the like. Thirdly, That you understand to measure the distances of places upon the Chart. Fourthly, That the Line drawn upon the Chart with their several properties, be likewise known; And Fifthly, That by this Chart you may under­stand the true Courses between any Capes, Isles, Continents, or the like.

This Chart is better to be bought, as other Instruments, which is a very large, white, and smooth skin of Velom or Parchment; Upon this first describe a Square; then divide the Aequinoctial Line into as may equal Parts or Degrees, as you have occasion for; Then draw on your Degrees of Latitude, then your Paral­lels through every 5th or 10th Degree of the Meridian, and the Meridians through every 5th or 10th Degree of the Aequinoctial. As for the Rhumbs, Capes, Harbours, Rocks, Isles, &c. to be described thereon, must be placed according to their true Latitude, and Longitude.

The Latitude of places by the Chart, is thus found out; upon the place whose Latitude you desire to know, set one Foot of your Com­passes; then stretch the other Foot to the next East, or West Line, for that Line is your directi­on, keeping that Foot still upon the same Line, moving your Hand and Compasses to the Gradua­ted Meridian, and there that Foot of the Com­pass which stood upon the place, whose Lati­tude you would know, shews the Latitude of the same place.

'Tis not material to give a Draught of the Sea-Chart, these Instructions being sufficient; but if not, any Instrument-Maker of whom you buy on, will soon shew the use, with directions to use it, as indeed of any other.

I shall omit the Plain Chart as being much of the same nature, but not so true.

The SENICAL QVADRANT is composed of Concentrick Arches, or rather Quar­ters of Circles, and of three sorts of right Lines. First, Those Parallel to the Line shews the Sines, and Meridians, and are Parallel to the North and South, upon which the Leagues of Latitude are counted. Secondly, Those drawn Parallel to the Line, give the Sines, Complements, and Paral­lels; and are Parallels to the East and West, up­on which the Leagues of Longitude, or depar­ture from the Meridian are reckoned; and Thirdly, Those drawn from the Center of the Quadrant, to the Limb, shew the Rhumbs of the Compass, or the several Courses; and upon them the Distance, or Leagues Sailed are reckoned, which said Leagues are marked by the several Arches, or Quarters of Circles.

Observe, that when the Distances are great, every Arch or Line cannot be reckoned for a League, as when the Distances are small; so that in such Case you may reckon them for what you please, as your occasions require, that is, either, 2, 3, 4 or more Leagues; and the Arches must also be reckoned for as much as you have reckoned the Lines of Latitude, and Lon­gitude; for Example, If you reckon an Arch for [Page 130] 5 Leagues, each Line of Latitude and Longi­tude must also be reckoned for five Leagues, and so of any other.

Also observe, that when you will find how many Leagues, one or many Degrees of Longi­tude contain by a proposed Latitude; or on the contrary how many Degrees of Longitude a certain number of Leagues (of East or West) contain also by a proposed Latitude; you must reckon the De­grees of Latitude given upon the nearest gradua­tion 10 to the Center of your Instrument, that is to say, upon that which begins at the side of East and West, and not upon the Limb, or utmost graduated Arch.

This Instrument is the most exact, and the ea­siest that hath been as yet invented for the work­ing a Travers at Sea by.

Thus having given a short Account of the chief Instruments necessary in this Art, I next proceed to the Art it self, and first.20

CHAP. III.
Of the LOG-BOARD.

THe Log-Board is a Board divided into se­veral 30 Colums, according to the following Example, upon which is set down their dead reckoning, that is, the Course and Distance Sayled upon every shift of Wind; in which observe this Method; First, set down in the first Colum the time, or Hour; In the 2d, the Ships Course; in the 3d, 4th and 5th the Knots, half Knots and Fathoms that the Ship runs: In the 6th the Point of the Compass, the Wind is at; In the 7th the force of the Wind; And in the 8th Colum the Variation. 40

The LOG-BOARD.
HoursCourseKnotsHalf KnotsFathomsWind atForce of the WindVariation D. M.
2       
4S. W. W.510S. S. E.F. G.2. 30. W.
6       
8       
10       
12       
2       
4       
6       
8       
10       
12       

50
60

Observe that when you begin a Long Voyage, you must keep a Log-Book, in which must be writ down every Day what is on the Log-Board, and in the same Method; as also what you have seen, how it before from you, and the Work of your Observation.

You must know, that so many Knots of the Log-Line, as the Ship runs in half a Minute Glass, so many Miles she sayls in an Hour. Know that you must leave the Log, every two Hours, and that the best way is to set down the Course made good upon each Point of the Compass. As for Example; Suppose the Course is SW, the Wind being at SSE, and that after two Hours Sayling (with the same Gale) the Log is left out, and you find the Ship to run 5 ½ Knots in half a Minute; and in the same time you observe also, (by the Wake of the Ship,) that there is half a Point of Leeward way, by which you may conclude that the Ship makes good but SW, half a point of Westernly, which accordingly must be set down upon the Log-Board, and so continuing as in the aforesaid Table, setting down every two Hours the Knots, half Knots, and the Fathoms that the Ship runs in half a Minute, with the several Courses she hath made good, and what Wind blows, with the force of the Wind, and Vari­ation.

To keep a Reckoning of 24 Hours without the Log.

THe Method observed by those that judge, of their distance, without a Log, is to have a Board of six Colums; In the first, the Hour is set down; In the second, the Course; In the third, the Miles; In the fourth, the Wind that blows; In the fifth, the force of the Wind; And in the sixth the Variation, and sometimes how the Current sets.

To take the Reckoning from the Log Board, thereby to compute the true Course, and Distance of the Ship, by the several Runs exprest upon the Log, observe this Method; First, double the Knots, half Knots and Fathoms, (if there be any) of each respective Course, by which you may know how many Miles you have sayled; for if they express on the Log-Board, but the Miles sayled in one or two Hours, they must be doubled, to know how many Miles sayled in double the time.

If your Knots be at 42 Foot Distance, from each other, it shews the seventh part of a Mile in an Hour, so that 2 Fathom is some­thing more than ¼ of a Mile; but if the Knots are distant 50 Foot, then 2 Fathoms are a little less, for a Fathom is but 6 Foot.

The Reckoning is taken from the Log-Board, e­very Day at Noon, and usually after your Ob­servation.

How to Correct a Dead Reckoning, when the Dead Latitude, differs from the observed Latitude.

FOr doing this there are several ways, for you must correct the Dead Latitude, as your Course hath been; for if North and South, and by your Reckoning you find your Latitude, less than by observation, the Ships place in the same Meridian, must be corrected, and in the observed Parallel; For Example, Suppose you depart from A, (taken notice of in the follow­ing Figure,) in the 50th Parallel, or Latitude [Page 131] of 50 Degrees; and that you Sayl directly South 50 Leagues, it will appear by your Reck­oning that the Ship is at B, in the Latitude of 47 Degrees, 30 Minutes; but by your ob­servation the Ship is in the Latitude of 47 De­grees, therefore to correct your Dead Reckon­ing prick your Point in C, under the same Me­ridian, and in the 47 Parallel, according to your Observation.10

[figure]

IF in sayling North, or South, the observed Latitude is lesser than the Latitude by Reck­oning,20 you must shorten your Distance in the same Meridian, according to your observed La­titude.

For Example.

Suppose you depart from A, (in the Latitude of 50 Degrees,) and sayl South 43 Leagues,) which is 2 Degrees 10 Minutes difference) by 30 your Reckoning it will appear that you are arri­ved at D, in the Latitude of 47 Degrees, 50 Minutes; but if by your observed Latitude, you find you are arrived but in the Parallel of 48 Degrees, prick your Point in F, and not in D, by reason your observation shews there is an Error in your Reckoning.

The cause of this Error is occasioned through want of Knowledge, or care to judge well of the Ships way or Run, by making it greater or lesser than it is; or else by Stemming a Current, or 40 Sayling with it.

For the Correcting your Dead Latitude, by your ob­served Latitude, when you Sayl East, or West.

OBserve, that in that case, you cannot correct the Error of your Reckoning (if any), nor by your Observation discover if any Current, hath obstructed your way, or set you forward,50 or made it great; so that when you Stem a Cur­rent, alter your Course, that by the difference of Latitude the Error may be discovered.

And for correcting your Reckoning; when having Sayled so many Miles, or Leagues, East or West, you find by your Observation that your Course hath not been under that Parallel, where your Reckoning placeth you; it must be done by your difference in Latitude, and Distance.

For Example.60

Admit that departing from B, in the Parallel of 47 Degrees, 30 Minutes, after having Sailed 43 Leagues West, by Observation you find, you are in the Parallel of 47 Degrees; to correct your Course, (wherein there is Error,) take with your Compass upon the Meridian, the 43 Leagues, Sailed, and setting one Foot in B, with the other describe and Arch, which will cut the 47 Parallel, and the Point of Intersection at H, will mark the place of your Ship.

For correcting your Reckoning in Sayling ob­liquely or between a Parallel and a Meridian; when you Sayl within 5 or 6 Points of the Meridian, and the Dead and observed Latitudes differ, be sure there is an Error; In this case if you are more sure of the Course or Rumb, than of the Distance, then stand to your Course, and the Ships place must be corrected upon the Course, by altering your Distance.

For Example.

Admit your Ship Sayls from A, SW, 60 Leagues, and so by your Reckoning you find you are arrived at I, in the Parallel of 47 De­grees, 50 Minutes; but by Observation you are arrived but in the Parallel of 48 Degrees, in such case shorten the Ships Distance upon the Course, and prick your Point in M, for the correct place of your Ship.

When your difference in Latitude, is greater by Observation than Reckoning, Enlarge the Ships Distance upon the Course. Now supposing you were more sure of your Distance Sayled, than of your Course, by reason of the Currents and Variation that could not be observed; In such case, you must relye on your Distance Sayled, and correct your Course.

For Example.

Suppose that departing from A, you sayl a­way SW, 50 Leagues, and so by Computation are arrived at M, in the Latitude of 48 De­grees; but by observed Latitude you find you are in the Parallel of 47 Degrees, 50 Minutes, in such case stand upon your Leagues Sayled, and correct your Course thus. Take with your Com­pass the Distance sayled, viz. 56 Leagues upon the Meridian, and placing one Foot of it in A, with the other describe a secret Arch, which cuts the Parallel of 47 Degrees, 50 Minutes, and the Point N, of Intersection will shew the place of your Ship.

But if you fear an Error, as much in the Distance as in the Course, in such case part the Difference.

For Example.

If you think to have Sayled by the Rumb AL, which is SW, and to be arived at M, in the Latitude of 48 Degrees, and your Obser­vation shews you are in the Parallel D, N, In such case stand to the Longitude of the Point at M, and drawing the secret Line MO, parallel to a Meridian, mark your Point in O, for the place of your Ship.

For the Correcting by the Card a composed Course, or several Courses together, occasioned through contrary Winds, Points of Land, Rocks, Shoals, &c.

NOte, that if the observed Latitude differs from the Latitude by estimation, you must stand to the same Longitude, and prick your Point in the observed Parallel. 10

For Example.

Suppose, that being departed from the Point at P, and you think you are arrived at S, in the Latitude of 47 Degrees; but by observation you find you are in 46 Degrees, the correction of it is to stand to the same Meridian of S, and to prick your Point in T, the observed Parallel.

But if it happen that your several Courses have 20 been either to the Southwards, or Northwards, in such case divide to each single Course the diffe­rence you find between the dead Latitude, and the observed Latitude.

For Example.

Suppose, that departing from K. in the 50th Parallel, you Sail to the South by the Rhumb KV, VX, XZ, if by estimation your Ship 30 is at Z, in the 47th Parallel, and by observation in the 46th, the difference is of one Degree, which must be divided according as each Course did alter the Latitude by estimation. Admit that the difference in Latitude of the first Course was of one Degree, which is the third part; in such case lengthen your first Course the third part of your difference, which is 20 Minutes; then placing one Foot of your Compass in K, and the other in Y, upon the Parallel of 48 Degrees 40 40 Minutes, prick your first Point 20 Minutes more to the Southward as at first, and doing as much from Y, and from 2; for the second and third Course prick your Point in 3, the place your Ship is arrived at according to your Obser­vation.

But if in case you were surer of your Course than of your Distance, then stand to your Course; but lengthen your Distance. 50

For Example.

Suppose, that after these three Courses P 9, 9 R, and RS, you think you are in the Latitude of 47 Degrees, but by observation but in the Latitude of 46, in such case lengthen the Di­stance upon each Course, proportionally to the difference between the observed Latitude, and that by estimation; and so instead of P 9, prick P 4, and for 9 R. prick 4, 5, and for RS, 60 prick 5 T.

Necessary Rules to be observed by those that keep an Account of the Ships Way.

YOu must be very careful to look often upon the Compass, that you may be the more assured of your Course, and that the Sea­man at the Helm hath Steered as commanded; and to that end, one very careful ought to have the management of that Concern: Also, how the Wind hath blown either Fresher or Calmer, especially having a Lee-Shoar, if you Sail near thereunto in the Night, which is a thing so dan­gerous, that many Ships have been lost by the negligence of the Pilot; to prevent which, 'tis good (when the Night approacheth) to Steer your Course a Point of the Compass more from the Land. Also when you Sail close by a Wind, or as near it as possible, with the Top-Sails out a Point of the Compass is commonly allowed for the Lee-Way: For Example, If the Wind was E. S. E. and you should Cape S. the Course will be S. by W. If with your Courses only you commonly allow 2 Points for the Lee-way; and if with your Main-Sail only (which is called a Trie) you allow for Lee-way 4 Points of the Compass; for Hulling in a Storm, 6 or 7 Points is allowed for Lee-way, and then the Ship may drive 10, 12, or 14 Leagues in 24 Hours. But these Rules are not always certain; for according as the Sea and Currents are, your Judgment must be of your Course; besides, sometimes a Sea will take your Ship on the Lee-Bow, and then the Leeward-way or Drive is lesser: Also, sometimes a Sea takes her on the Weather-Bow, so that then she drives more; and when the Sea is smooth, less is usually allowed for the Leeward-way. But to be certain, how much your Ship hath fallen to the Lee-ward, have regard to the Wake, or smooth Water that your Ship leaveth at Stern, setting it by your Compass; for its opposite Point will shew the true Course of your Ship. However, for your assurance, forget not to make your Ob­servations on all Occasions, as aforesaid, which every 24 Hours must be writ down in your Journal. And also have a care when it Blows hard, of the Lee-latch, if you Sail large.

For the knowing the distance, or number of Leagues Sailed, the way most practiced by the Pilots, is by the Log, and half Minute-Glass; the knowledge of which is common to all Sea­men.

It is also known by the Pendulum. And those expert in Navigation will judge how far a Ship hath Sailed in an Hour, only by looking how swiftly the Water passeth about the middle of the Ship, with regard to the force of the Wind, and how it blows, whether from the Stern-quarter, or Bow; as also by the Currents, and Waves.

CHAP. IV.
Of the Three Parts of the Art of Navigation, and in special of the First Part, viz. the Making or Building of Ships.10

Proposition I.
That is termed the Nautical Art, which teacheth how a Ship may with safety, and the assistance of the Winds, be Sailed from one place to another.

BEcause in this Discipline the places of the Earth are compared amongst themselves,20 or mutually to themselves, and their respective Situation is examined, therefore deservedly it is referred to Geography.

This Art may be divided into three Parts: First, The Art of Building of Ships, which also considereth the Motion of the Ship in the Water, or else presupposeth it as known. Secondly, Concerning the Lading of a Ships: And Thirdly, The Direction, or Sailing of a Ship, which is the Art of the Master, or Pilot, and in general the 30 Art of Navigation, unto which also the Defini­tion of the Art is most of all agreeable. And this part with greater right doth appertain unto Geography than the two former, which are more truly referred to the Staticks and Mechanicks.

Proposition II.
In the Fabricks of Ships these things following must be observed.40

1. THat the Matter or Wood be taken which may endure very long in the Water, of which Vitruvius, and other Authors are to be consulted. Hither also belongeth how the Woods are to be prepared, and their Density to be aug­mented, the unuseful Moisture to be consumed with Fire, Pitched and defended from Corruption. This Doctrine must be taken from Philosophy.

2. That such a Figure or Shape be given to a 50 Ship that is most apt for a quick Motion, and may be moved with a small power.

3. In this Fabrick, and in reference to the Fi­gure this must be observed, that a Ship may with ease be defended against Storms and Tem­pests; but of this more when I treat about Lading of Ships.

4. The Magnitude of Ships must be consi­dered, where there is a great Comparison be­tween the Ancient, and Moderns. Some suppose,60 that the Ship of Alexandria (made by Archi­medes, by the Command of Hiero King of Sicily, and presented to Ptolomy King of Aegypt) was of 12000 Tun. The Ship of Philopater is delivered by Calizenus, to have been in length 280 Cubits, in breadth 38, and in height 48 Cu­bits. The greatest Ships at this day are those of the Spaniards, which are called Caracasts; but of all Nations in the World, the English have most reason to brag of their gallant Ships, especially for the Service of the War.

5. There belongs to the Building of Ships the knowledge of every part, as the Keil, Rudder, Ribs, Head, Stern, Masts, Yards, Cables, Anchors, &c. of which not only the Matter, Figure, and Coherency; but also the Weight and Magnitude are to be explained.

6. To the Fabrick of Ships belongs the skill how to prevent a Breach, Leaks, or other defects in Ships.

This much in brief of the First Part of Na­vigation, concerning the Building of Ships.

CHAP. V.
The Second Part, which treats about Lading of Ships.

Proposition I.
The Bruthen to Lade Ships withal is exprest by Lasts, and Tuns.

THe Tun of a Ship is supposed to be 2000 Pounds weight, the Last 12 Tuns.

Proposition II.
The Body, or Matter which is higher than Water, is not mergent altogether in the Water, but some part of it is above; but if it be of a greater weight than Water, it will sink to the bottom: If of the same weight, it keeps the given place in the Water.

HItherto belongs the various knowledge of the Weights of Bodies, as of Lead, Gold, Iron, Wheat, Sand, Oil, Wine; the gravity of all which must be compared with Water.

And from hence it is manifest, that the weight of the matter to Lade the Ship, which, taken with the Burthen of the Ship, ought to be lesser than the Burthen or Gravity of the Water, whose Moles are equal to the Solidity or Capacity of the whole Ship.

Proposition III.
By how much the Figure of the Ship cometh to an Ordinate, that is, to a Cubick equality of Longi­tude, Latitude, and thickness; by so much the more it can sustain the greater burden in the Water.

THe Demonstration must be sought from the Staticks.

Proposition IV.
In the Lading of Ships respect must be had to two things; First, That there is not imposed so great a Burthen that its weight taken may be equal with the weight of the Ship, or greater than the Moles of the Water which is equal to the Solidity of the Ship, but that it be lesser, though not much. But if the Matter to Lade 10 the Ship be too light, the Burthen must be aug­mented with Ballast. Secondly, The depth of the Water must be considered through which the Ship is to Sail.

FOr although the Gravity of the Water ad­mits of this or that weight of the Ship, or Lading, when this is lesser than the equal Gra­vity of the Ship is to the Moles of the Water; yet if the Water hath less profundity than the 20 part of the Ship beneath the Superficies of the Water, the bottom will not grant a motion to the Ship, but detain it. This is the reason that Spanish Ships carry a greater Burthen than Dutch, because they have the Sea deeper on the Shoar, and in the Harbours, as also greater Ships come to Zeland than to Holland.

Proposition V.
If a Ship be so butrdened, that its Weight, or 30 Gravity, be almost equal to the weight or gra­vity of the Sea-Water, equal to the Capacity of the Ship, yet it sinketh not in the Sea; but when it shall be brought into any River it sinks to the bottom.

THe Reason is, because the Water of Rivers is lighter than the Water of the Sea; Therefore if the weight of the Laden Ship be 40 almost equal to the Gravity of the Marine Water, therefore it shall be greater than the Gravity of River Water, and so the Ship shall be sunk in the River, or carried to the bottom. Many Ships for this reason have perished for being over-laden by unskilful Mariners, or not un­burdened in the Mouths of the Rivers. Now how this Gravity should be, is known from the proportion of the Sea-water to River-water. 50

Proposition VI.
Any Body swiming on the Water hath that weight, that the watery Moles have, equal to the de­mergent part of this Body.

THe part of the Ship being given, which is under the Water, the weight of the whole burdened Ship may be found; for the Gravity of the Water is known, or is easie to be found.60 For Example, One Cubick Foot of Water is 70 Pound; and therefore if the part of the Ship under Water be 2000 Cubick Feet, the Gravity of the water Moles, which is equal to the part of the Ship under Water, shall be 140000 Pound; so much also shall be the weight of the Ship laden.

Proposition VII.
A Ship is most commonly accounted commodiously to carry that quantity of Burthen, whose Gravity is equal to the Gravity of half the Moles of Water which the Ship can contain.

FOr Example; If the Ship can carry 500000 Tuns of Water (whereof every one is ac­counted at 2000 Pounds weight) that is, if it contains the Water of 1000000000 Pounds, you may conveniently lade it with the Burthen of 250000 Tuns. In this sense you must under­stand it when they say that Ships are so many Tuns, or carry so many Lasts.

Proposition VIII.
By how much the weight of the Ship laded is greater, by so much the less it is tossed with Storms and Tempests.

SHips of 2000 Tuns are not in danger of those Tempests which are vexatious to Ships of 2, or 300 Tuns. Much more might be said, but this may suffice for Blements.

CHAP. VI.
The Third and Chief Part of the NAUTICK ART, viz. The Art of Guiding, or Na­vigating of a Ship, and its sub­division of the Four Parts.

Proposition I.
That is termed the Art of Navigating a Ship, which teacheth unto what Quarter a Ship is to be guided in any situation of it in the sea, that it may come to the proposed place without dan­ger.

I Shall make Four Parts of it:

1. Special Geography; that is, the know­ledge of a place intercepted between two places, and the properties of the same.

2. The knowledge of the Quarters in every place.

3. The cognition of the Line, by which the Ship is to be brought from one place to another; for there are between every two places infinite intercepted Lines. This Part is termed Histrio­dromice.

4. The knowledge of the Situation of every place unto which by Sailing we arrive, or how these places are situated unto that place unto which the Ship is to be directed. This is the Chief Part of the Art of Sailing.

[Page]

To ye. Rt. Hon.ble George Legge, Generarall of the Ordnance Master Iames the Second▪ Leiutenant Hantshire. Admirall of his Mat••. Captaine Generall of his l [...]te Ma•• Tangier▪ & one of the Lds. of his Ma•••. This Plate is humbly

Baron of Dartmouth Master of the Horse to his Majesty King of Alceholt & Wolmer fforest in [...] fleet of Ships in ye Mediteranian, forces in Affrica & Governour of most Honble. Privy Councell Anno 168 [...]. dedicated by R▪ Blome

Proposition II.
The Cognition of the Intermedial Space doth com­prehend these things.

1. THe Situations of Places, the Procurrences of Angles, the bending of the Shoars the Aspect of Promontories, Mountains, and Bay [...], the Depths of Waters, the Sight of Islands, the Coasts of Lands; all which are known from 10 Special Geography, and Sea-Plots; but most easily, and with greatest certainty from Observation, and frequent Navigation through any Tract of Land, which is the only cause that some Mari­ners are more fit to guide a Ship to such a place, and others to another.

2. The knowledge of the General and Spe­cial Winds, and those that are peculiar to any place, which is exceeding useful in Navigations in the Torrid Zone, and adjacent places. For 20 here a General Wind, and in many places Anni­versary Winds, which are called Mossons, do rule, which either promote, or hinder Navigation; for the Indian Seas are Sailed by these Winds.

3. The Condition of the Motion of the Seas in every Tract, also the Quarter of it, into which Quarter the Seas and Waves are born; for they carry the Ship with them.

First of all, there is required a knowledge of the Ship, and Reflux of the Sea, and the time 30 or hour of the Increase or Decrease at every Day; the supputation of which is termed the reckoning of the Tides; for except a Master or Pilot know this, the Ship is in danger when it is near Shoars, or Sands, whereof most in the greatest Increase of the Water do not hinder the passage of the Ship; but most do in the De­crease. So with a Flux, the Navigation is more facile to the Shoar, and to the Inlets of Rivers; and the contrary is discovered in the Reflux. 40

CHAP. VII.
Of the Knowledge of Places, viz. the North, South, East, and West, and the Intermedial Quarters.

Proposition I.
In every place to know the Plagas, viz. the North, South, East, and West, and the Intermedial 50 Quarters.

THe knowledge of this is the most necessary 60 of all the Problems of the whole Art of Navigation, seeing that a Ship must be guided to some Quarter, which, if unknown, there can be no direction, and the very defect of this Knowledge alone hindred the Navigations of the Ancients; and in this is the chief difference be­tween the Ancient and Modern Navigation. For the Ancients had not a Method, by which at any time in the large Ocean they might know where was the North, South, or other Quarters; therefore they could not, nor durst they commit themselves to the vast Ocean, but only Coasted the Shoars.

The Ancients had a double Method (which serveth also to the Modern Navigation) of find­ing out the Quarters; (Now this Problem is the same with that, to find out the Meridian Line, and the North and South Quarters, for these being known 'tis easie to know the rest) First, by the Stars, viz. in the Night the Bear, or the Helice and Polary Star, so called, in the extremity of the Tail of Vrsa Minor (of great fame amongst the Ancients) which shewed the North Quarter, whence all the rest are found; for the face be­ing turned to the North, the East is at the Right Hand, and the West on the Left, the Line of which Quarters at right Angles cuts the Line of the North and South. And these Cardinal Quar­ters being found, it is easie to find the Inter­medial Quarters, unto which purpose, that there may be no need of a description, they had a Circle made with the Quarters, whose Northern Line being placed above the Northern Line of any place, the other Quarters at one sight are discovered. But in the Day they sought out the Quarter by the Rising or Setting of the Sun.

2. The other Method of the Ancients for knowing the Quarters, was the knowledge of the situation, or extension of the Shoars, and one Promontory to the other. For seeing the Quarter of this Extension was known to them either from Maps, or from Observation and Experience, they might in Navigation (by seeing them) know the other Quarters; (for one Quarter being known, all the rest are known,) therefore the Ancients did not far depart from the Coasts, viz. that they might know the Quarter by the benefit of the known Quarter of the Extension of Shoars; for they could not always use the Me­thod of the Stars, and the Rising and Setting of the Sun.

3. The Third Method of the Ancients, of the knowledge of the Quarters, was the observed Course of the Ship; for going from any place, and guiding the Ship to the known Quarter, they were able from the mutation of the Course of the Ship to know the Quarters.

But at this Day, the Method of knowing the Quarters in all places, and of finding out the Line of the North and South, is facile by the benefit of the Load-Stone, There are two op­posite Points in the Load-Stone, whereof one always, and in all places, turneth it self to the North, or the adjacent Quarter; the other, to the South, and so the other Points of the Magnet respect the other Quarters; but all of them are not considered, but only those two Points, viz. the North and South, which are termed the Poles of the Magnet, the one Northern, the other Sou­thern.

And the same Vertue is communicated to the Needle, but by an inverted and contrary opera­tion of Nature; for the end of the Needle which is touched at the North Pole of the Magnet, [Page 136] doth not convert it self to the North, but to the South; and that end which is rubbed at the South Pole of the Load-Stone turneth to the North.

Seeing that the Magnet hath this property, therefore by its help it is easie to find in any part of the Earth, or Sea, the North and South, whence all other Quarters are soon known.

Proposition. II.
There are so many Quarters as there are Points in 10 the Periphery of every Horizon, that is, they are infinite. Now Seamen number 16 in their small Navigations; 32 in those that are moderate; and 64 in the great Voyages through the vast Ocean.

THe Portugals call these Quarters Rhumbs; the Dutch, de Cours, although they attri­bute these Terms also to the Loxodromical part.20 But when they will denominate the Interme­dial Quarters, they do that by the division of a space lying between two Quarters.

Proposition. III.
The Magnetical Needle (as the Poles of the Mag­nes it self) in very few places, doth respect the very Quarter of the North and South; but in most places declineth a little from that to­wards 30 the East or West, and that in an equal Declination; and therefore altogether sheweth not the true Quarters. That Declination is called Chalyboclisis.

YEt at one of the Isles of the Azores, called El Corvo, there is no Declination, but the Needle sheweth the exact Northern Point.

The same is observed in some places of the same Meridian, but not in all parts of it. In 40 places situate from this Isle towards the East, (even to the Promontory of the Procurrent of Africa, called Cabo das Angulhas, not far from the Promontory of Good-hope) the Needle declin­eth from the North towards the East, in an equal Declination, even to the Islands of Tristan de Cunha; and the Declination augmenteth a part more remote by 70 Degrees; so that it is there about 13 Degrees; then again it decreaseth to the places adjacent to the Promontory de Angul­has, 50 where again there is no Declination. From that place towards the Indies the Declination of the Needle begins from the North towards the West at Hamburgh; the Chalyboclisis of 90 Degrees. At Amsterdam at this time about five; for the time past it was greater.

Now Observations testify, that this Declina­tion doth not remain the same, but changeth in Course of time; for at London in Anno 1580, it was observed 11 Degrees 15 Minutes; but in An­no 60 1622, it was 6 Degrees, 13 Minutes; and in Anno 1634, it was 4 Degrees 6 Minutes. And the Observations were performed not only by the new, but old Needles also. At Paris in Anno 1640, the Declination was observed 3 Degrees which in Anno 1610, was found 8 Degrees, the same was also observed in other places.

Proposition IV.
To find the Declination of the Magnetick Needle, from the true Quarter of the North, in any place.

LEt the Meridian Line be sound from the Hea­ven, as hath been shewed in the xx Chapter of Varenius his Art of Cosmography; and the De­clination of the Magnetical Needle will soon be discovered. But the following Proposition will shew the more easy Method for the use of Sea­men.

Proposition V.
To explain the Terms of Navigation, which are used in designing of this Declination, and the correction of the Mariners Compass, and the Modes which Saylors use to find out this Declination in the Sea.

IN the Composition of the Compass, the de­fect of the Declination is amended, or cor­rected, viz. the Declination of the Needle, being known in the place, for which the Instrument is prepared, that Needle must not be affixed to the Line of the Chart, which hath the Flower de Lis, and should be the Index of the North, but un­der that Line, which is removed so many De­grees from the Line of the North, as the Decli­nation of the Loadstone hath been found to have towards the Line of the East or West; for so the Lily. And the Line of the North, will shew the true North, although the Needle may Decline.

But for the use of Navigation, because in di­vers places there is a different Declination, the Needle ought to be fitted to the Chart, that it may be carried round, the Needle remaining im­moveable, and the Line of that Quarter may be brought above the Needle, which the observed Declination shall shew; for so the same Instru­ment shall serve for all places.

Now for the finding out of the Declination of the Magnetick Needle from the true Line of the North and South, thus many Mariners do act. They observe the Quarter of the Compass in which the Sun doth rise; and the Quarter of the West, in which the Sun sets; for although that then they are in another place, yet they are absent a small Interval from the former in which the Declination is not varied.

If these Quarters of the Compass are equally distant from the Quarter of the Compass in the North, then 'tis a sign that the Needle in that place hath no Declination, and so there is no need of Correction, but the Needle ought to re­main under the Line of the North: But if the Quarter of the Eastern Sun, be further distant than the Quarter of the Western Sun from the Quarter of the North, then 'tis a sign that the Needle declineth in that place from the true Line of the North, towards the West: But last­ly, if the Quarter of the Eastern Sun be farther distant than the Western Sun from the Northern Quarter of the Chart, 'tis a sign that the Nedle [Page 137] declineth towards the East. The Quantity of the Declination is thus known: Let the Arches intercepted between the Northern Quarter of the Compass, and the East and West Quarters of the Sun, be noted; let the lesser Arch be deducted from the greater; then half of the residue is the Declination Sought, and so many Degrees the North Line of the Chart, must be removed from the Magnetical Needle.

Mariners use sometimes another Method,10 which is less subject to Error, viz. They observe the Quarter of the Compass, in which the Sun is discovered any time after his rising, and at that time they observe the Altitude of the Sun. Then after Noon they expect, or wait until they find the Sun to come unto the same Altitude; which being found, they observe the Quarter of the Compass, in which the Sun was then beheld; for these Quarters, or Arches intercepted be­tween them and the Quarter of the North, the 20 Declination of the Needle is found after the same Method, as before spoken of.

Sometimes Mariners skilful in Trigonometry, or by the help of an Vniversal Planisphere, use a third, or fourth Method, viz. when that immediately by one Observation the Declination of the Needle must be enquired to know the Quarters, for either they observe the Quarter, of the Compass, in which the Sun riseth or setteth; or they observe the Quarter in which 30 they found the Sun, at any observed Altitude.

Then by a Trigonometrical Calculation, or a Catholick Planisphere; they find in what Quarter the Sun truly sticketh at this time of the rising, or Altitude. The Difference of this, or that Quarter observed on the Compass, is the very Declination of the Needle.

Proposition VI.
To shew those things which withdraw the Magnetick 40 Needle from its natural Situation in any place, and therefore are the causes that it sheweth not the Quarters, as it ought to do.

THe chief are these, 1. The blunt extre­mity, or less sharpness of the Pin on which the Needle is fixed, 2. Some matter in the Hole that receiveth the Needle, 3. If the Paper or Rose lyeth beyond its Horizontal Situation, 4. Some 50 admission of Air. And, 5. The vicinity of Iron. These hindrances of the true shewing must be avoyded.60

CHAP. VIII.
Of the HISTIODROME, or LINE of the COVRSE of a SHIP.

Proposition I.
If that any two places be situate in one Meridian, or if that another place be situated from some place towards the Quarter of the North, or South, that same place shall be situated towards the same Quarter of the North or South, from all those places or Points which are interposed be­tween those two places first assumed, one of the two places lying in the same Meridian, from another, and from all intermedial Points is situ­ated towards the same Quarter of the North, or South.

THe truth of the Proposition is manifest, if that it be rightly conceived. By places intercepted between two Points or places are un­derstood all Points, which are the intercepted Arch of the great Circle, drawn through the two Points, first assumed; or of the Points of that Arch, which sheweth the shortest distance. Let that place at which the situation of the other place is expended, be termed the first; and that other whose situation is expended, be termed the second. And for the more easy understanding, the first place is so to be conceived, that it may be the same in the middle of the whole Earth, or in the middle of the circumjacent Regions; and by reason that it is situated in the Brazen Meridian of the Globe, infinite Verticals are drawn through it by the circumjacent places to the Horizon, and so the situation of all the rest of the places is expended at it, or the distance from the Meridian of it, or of its Angles which they make Vertical with the Meridian.

The cause of the Proposition is, because that the Angle which the Meridian of the first place maketh with the Vertical of the first place drawn through that second place, denoteth the situation of the second to the first, or to the Quarter. Now if we conceive all the Points interposed be­tween the two places assumed of one Meridian, (for these are they of which the one towards the other, lyeth towards the Quarter of the North or South,) it is manifest that the Meridian of every one of them is the same with the Vertical, which is drawn through every one from, or through either place assumed, that is, that there is no Angle between the Meridians, and Verticals; wherefore the place assumed is situated at e­very interposed Point towards the Quarter of the North and South.

Proposition II.
If that any two places be assumed in the Aequator, unto one of which, or the first, the situation of the other or second be to be examined, the second si­tuated from the first in the chief Quarter, shall be the East, or West, and the second shall be si­tuated in the same Cardinal Quarter, to all the places interposed; or one place of two lying 10 in the same Aequator from another, and from all intermedial Points, is situated to the same Quar­ter of the East, or West.

FOr the more easy understanding of this, let any place in the Aequator be taken, and so placed, that the wooden Horion may become the Horizon of it, that is, that the Poles of the Earth, may be in the Horizon it self; then let the second place in the Aequator be taken,20 whose situation [...]or Quarter is to be considered in the first place. It is manifest that it is the chief Quarter of the East or West. For the Aequator is Vertical to it, which is drawn from the first place through the second Perpendicular to the Horizon, and cuts the Meridian Line, at right Angles; the same is also true concerning all the interjected Points, which if that they be brought to the Brass Meridian, the Wooden Ho­rizon shall be their Horizon, and the Aequator 30 shall be the prime Vertical of them which cuts the Meridian Line at right Angles, and passeth through the second place; therefore this second place shall be situated to all those interjected Points in one and the same Cardinal Quarter of the East or West.

Proposition III.
If that the second place with the first be not situated 40 in one and the same Meridian, and both of them be not in the Aequator; the second place shall not be situated to the first, and to all interposed Points in one and the same Quarter, but in di­vers Quarters at divers Points.

FRom this Proposition depends the knowledge of the Original of Lines which the Ship makes; therefore this ought to be well under­stood.50

Let any two places be taken in the Globe, which neither of them are in the Aequator, nor in one Meridian, (for in these two kinds of si­tuation the Quarter of the second place is not varied at the intermedial places). For Example, Let Amsterdam be taken for the first place from whence the Voyage is to be begun, and Fer­nambuck in Brasil for the second, or unto which the Voyage is appointed. Let Amster­dam therefore be brought to the Brass Meridian; 60 and let the Pole be Elevated for the Latitude of the same (for so the Wooden Horizon represent­eth the Horizon of the place), let the Quadrant be affixed to the Vertex, and let it be applyed to Fernambuck, it will shew the Quarter in the Horizon in which Fernambuck lyeth from Am­sterdam. And the Arch interjected between these two places exhibiteth on the Globe the interme­dial Points. It must therefore be shewed, that the Quarters in which Fernambuck lyeth from every one of these Points are not the same, but all divers, or that from every one of these inter­medial places Fernambuck doth not lye towards one and the same Quarter.

For the understanding of this, we must repeat from the preceding Doctrine that the Angle with the Meridian of this assumed place maketh, which the Vertical passing through the other place, sheweth the Quarter of another place from some one place assumed; or the Arch of the Horizon, intercepted between the Meridian and this Ver­tical, as the Angle sheweth the Quarter of Fer­nambuck from Amsterdam, which the Quadrant▪ with the Brass Meridian [...] maketh (which is of Amsterdam it self). Therefore to prove the truth of this Proposition, let what Points you please be taken between Amsterdam and Fernambuck in the Arch, subject to the Quadrant, and let the Meridians passing through by them be concei­ved. It is best to take those Points, through which on the Globe the Meridians pass (or the Circles of Longitude); because therefore the Quadrant passeth through every one of these places, and Fernambuck it self, it will represent the Vertical of every place, in which Fernam­buck lyeth from them. Therefore the Angles which it makes which the Meridians of each place, are the Angles of Position, and shew the Quarters in which, or towards which Fernambuck lyeth from every intermedial place. Now these Angles are unequal, and of a different Magnitude; there­fore the Quarters also, towards which Fernambuck lyeth from those places, are divers. Now that these Angles are unequal, is manifest from the very Sight; or more evident, if that by any In­terval of the Compass, you draw an Arch from each Point, and measure these Arches intercepted between each Meridian and the Vertical: Or if that we have ready by it self a crooked portion, which may be fitted to the Superficies of the Globe; or if that the places themselves be brought to the Brazen Meridian, and the Pole be elevated for their Latitude, let the Quadrant be ap­plyed to the Vertex, and to Fernambuck, and in that situation let the Degrees of the Arch of the Horizon be reckoned.

Therefore the streight lined Maps, and Sea Charts are very defective, which do so represent the places, that if that any two places be taken, at one of which the Situation or Quarter of the other be examined, this other doth seem to be in one and the same Quarter from the intermedial places, which yet is false; the cause of which is, that they exhibite the Meridians Parallels, which yet do meet in the Poles: But few Seamen regard this fault, so that they do but relate the Course or Quarter which they ought to have observed in Sayling from one place to another.

Proposition IV.
If a Voyage be to be made, or that a Ship be to Sail from one place to another (which two▪ places are not in one Meridian, or both of them in one Aequator) by a most short Cut, or by this means, that it may never recede from the interposed Arch of the Vertical, in such a Voyage the Quarter is changed every moment, or the Quar­ter 10 becometh another and another, into which the Voyage is to be taken, or the Ship is to be Sailed.

THis Proposition is manifest from the fore­going. For let the Voyage be taken from Amsterdam to Fernambuck by the nearest way, that is, through the Arch of the Quadrant affixed at Amsterdam, and passing through by Fernam­buck; because therefore every where in the 20 whole Voyage, or in every Point the Voyage is directed towards Fernambuck; and it is shewed in the precedent Proposition, that the Quarters are divers, towards which from those middle Points Fernambuck lieth; therefore it is manifest, that the Quarter becometh another and another in every Moment, and in each Point into which the Ship is to Sail, or to be Sailed, that it may re­spect Fernambuck.

But if that the places be situated in one Meri­dian, 30 or if that both be in the Aequator, the case is otherwise; for in them the same Quarter of the Voyage of the North or South remaineth; in these the Cardinal Quarter of the East or West.

Proposition V.
A Voyage can't be so undertaken, or a Ship so directed, that it may tend in each moment to other and other Quarters; but for some time at 40 the least (whilst it is moved) it tendeth to one and the same Quarter in appearance. There­fore whilst we are to Sail from one place to ano­ther, such a Way, or Line of a Way is most convenient, whose every two near Points are situated in one and the same Quarter in shew, although that this Way be not the shortest.

A Ship can't tend from one Quarter to another in a moment of time; but whilst 50 that it is moved (for some time at least) it tendeth to it. Moreover, it can by no means be done, that the Seamen should know the Quarters unto which the Ship should be Sailed, if that another Quarter were so often to be assumed.

Therefore it is evident, that that Passage be­tween two places is most commodious for Navi­gation, whose every two vicine Points are situated in one and the same Quarter, so that the Ship may be continually directed unto one Quarter, 60 and to come by such a direction to the place appointed. This being supposed, let us enquire what Way is thence for the Motion of the Ship? which Way indeed, if that the places be situated in one Meridian, shall be part of the Meridian it self: If in the Aequator, that Way shall be a portion of the Aequator it self: If in a Parallel, it shall be a part of this Parallel: If in any other Circle besides these, that Way shall be ano­ther Line, not that Circle, as shall be shewed here­after.

Proposition VI.
If that a Voyage be appointed, or that a Ship be directed to the North or South Quarter, (that is, if that the place from whence, and the place unto which be in one Meridian) the Line of the Motion of the Ship it self shall be a part of the Meri­dian.

IT hath been already proved, for the place required at all the Intermedial places, that is, at the Points of the Arch of the Meridian is situated in one and the same Quarter of the North and South, as is there said. And by the preceding Proposition such a way is commodious for Navigation, from place to place, whose every two vicine Points are situated in one and the same Quarter. Wherefore seeing that the Arch of the Meridian is such a way, that shall be the Way or Line of the motion of the Ship, viz. which the Ship by its motion describeth, whilst that it is continually directed, or steered to the North or South.

Proposition VII.
If that a Voyage be appointed from any place situ­ated in the Aequator towards the East, or West Quarter, the Line of the Motion is a portion of the Aequator it self.

YOu are already shewed, that if two pla­ces be taken in the Aequator, the first, from whence the second, unto which the Voyage is appointed; that the second is situated in one and the same East and West Quarter from all the interposed Points, that is, from the Points of the Arch of the Aequator it self. Because therefore the Ship is continually directed unto these Quar­ters, the Arch of the Aequator interposed between these two places shall be the way of the Motion of the Ship. And because we have already sup­posed, that such a Way between two places is to be chosen, and is commodious for Naviga­tion, viz. whose every two vicine Points are situated in one and the same Quarter, such a portion of the Aequator shall be chosen for the Way of the Ship.

Proposition VIII.
If that a Voyage be undertaken from any place situated without the Aequator, towards the East or West Quarter, so that the Ship continually may be directed to either of these Quarters, the circumference of the vertical Circle shall not be the Line of the Motion of the Ship; but the Parallel of the Aequator, viz. the Circle of the Latitude of the place from which the Voyage is appointed.

FOr because that a Ship, whilst it tendeth from one▪ Meridian to another, is supposed to have respect to the same Quarter▪ it will not [Page 140] remain in the Vertical, but presently into ano­ther Point of the vicine Meridian, viz. which is a Point of the Parallel of the Aequator, or of the Circle of the Latitude of the place whence the Departure was made. For every Point of this Circle is such, that the Tangent Lines of this Circle being brought unto them, may respect the Quarter of the East and West of each of these Points. Furthermore, the Keel of the Ship, because that it is continually supposed to be di­rected 10 towards these Quarters, always shall touch this Parallel in any Point. Or by reason that any two Points of this Parallel are such, that one is situated from the other towards one and the same Quarter of the East and West, and the Ship is supposed continually to be directed unto this Quarter, neither is there any other Line on the Globe, whose Points are so directed; therefore it follows, that the Way of the Motion of the Ship is this Parallel of the Latitude of the 20 place.

From the three foregoing Propositions we col­lect, that if a Voyage be undertaken from any place, or that the Ship be continually directed towards any Cardinal Point, that the Way of the Ship is circular.

Proposition IX.
If that a Voyage be appointed from one place to 30 another, situated in the same Parallel, or Circle of Latitude, this Way of the Ship shall be a portion of that Parallel, although this be not the shortest way.

FOr that Line is chosen for the Navigation of the Ship, by which we arrive at the place appointed, by directing the Ship continu­ally to one and the same Quarter. And any two of the Points of the Parallel of the Circle are 40 such. Wherefore the portion of the Parallel shall be the way of the Motion of the Ship.

There is therefore a threefold Situation of Places, from one of which to the other, when a Voyage is undertaken, the way of the Naviga­tion is the Periphery of the Circle. 1. If that both places be in one Meridian. 2. If that both be in the Aequator: And 3. If that both be in one Parallel, or Circle of Latitude. In the two former kinds of Situation, the Way or Line of 50 Navigation is the same with the Distance or shortest Way: But in the third Situation, the Line of the Navigation is divers from the shortest Way; for this is the Arch of the greatest Circle, interjected between two places. In any other Situation of Places, the Way of the Navigation can't be the Periphery of the Circle, as is just now shewed.60

Proposition X.
If that a Voyage be undertaken from any place towards any Quarter not Cardinal, so that the Ship may be continually directed to that Quar­ter, the Motion of the Ship is not circular, but a crooked Line, and encompassing the Earth with infinite Bendings and Windings.

SUppose a Ship to Sail from some place, when she hath arrived to the vicine Meridian Point, it is directed towards the Point of the following, or nearest Meridian, which is situated in the same Quarter unto the first Point, in which this is first to the first place, and so also in the following Meridians. Now these Points of all the Meridians do not make the Periphery of the Circle, but a solid crooked Helicoides. A di­stinct explication of this matter is more easily shewed on the Globe, than by many words.

Loxodromy is a Way or Line of Motion, which the Ship makes whilst it moveth from one place continually towards one Quarter not Cardinal.

This is the Nominal definition; but the Essen­tial definition of this Line, that is, the know­ledge of the Nature and Properties of it is most difficult; for neither is it an Helix, as many think, neither doth it depend on any property of the Load-Stone, who say, that it hath its existency thence, because the Ship followeth the conduct of the Load-Stone; neither is it com­posed of the Minute Particles of many Periphe­ries, as Nonnius saith. Neither is the Explication of Snellius plain, who saith, that Loxodromy is an Heliocoidical Line in the Superficies of the Terrestrial Globe, with a right Line touching about every where with the Meridians in total, by contact it comprehends those Points, equal Angles to those drawn out; for Snellius doth not explain how such a Tangent ought to be conceived, or how to be drawn: And to speak properly, Loxodromy hath not Right Lines Tan­gent, because it is a solid Line, when that Tan­gents are drawn to plain Lines to a Curvature; for in solid Lines infinite Tangents may be brought to any Point. Moreover, that Defini­tion may also agree to other Draughts of Lines, when unto any Point of such a Meridian, such a Tangent, and crooked Line may be conceived to be drawn from the vicine Meridian.

Also our Definition may be thus proposed: Loxodromy is a crooked Line, encompassing the Earth with many windings, every Point of which lieth from all its other Points in appear­ance in one and the same Quarter; or in which, if that two Points be taken, one Point lieth from another, and all the Intermedial Points in one Quarter; or from any Point of which if that Circular Arches be drawn unto all the rest of the Points, these Arches make equal Angels with the Meridian, which passeth through all these several Points.

Proposition XI.
If that a Voyage be undertaken from one place to another, which is not situated with the for­mer in the same Meridian, or Aequator, nor Parallel; and in the whole Voyage the Ship be directed to that Quarter in which the place designed is situated from the place of the De­parture, you shall never by this Voyage come to 10 the place designed, but continually the Ship shall be removed more and more from it.

THis notable property of Navigation seemed miraculous to Mariners when that it was first observed, which hapned in the time of Pe­trus Nonnius, the Portuguez Mathematician, who wrote two Books of this Subject; after him many Mathematicians laboured in the explanation of this matter, or crooked Line: And lastly,20 Mariners found it necessary for the Nautick use, and thence Tables were made.

But the cause of this Phaenomenon is, that the Ship being continually directed unto that Quarter in which the second place from the first is situ­ated, it remaineth not in the Periphery inter­cepted between these places, but whilst that it cometh to one Point; because here is a new Horizon, and another Quarter the extension of the assumed Course; and this is continually 30 done in the following Points, thence existeth the crooked Helicoidical Line, in which whilst that the Ship is moved in some places, it is more and more removed from the determined place, and else where it approacheth more near.

Proposition XII.
When a Voyage is to be undertaken from one Place towards another, situated in the same 40 Meridian, or towards the Quarter of the North or South, the Ship is continually to be directed to this Quarter of the North, or South; or a Meridian is to be chosen for the Way of the Ship, and it will arrive at the other place.

1. WHen a Voyage is to be undertaken from one place to another, and both are in the Aequator, the Ship shall be guided into that Quarter, in which the other place lieth from the 50 first; that is, to the Quarter of the East or West, or the Line of the Aequator is to be taken for the Way of the Ship.

2. When a Voyage is to be undertaken from one place to another, and that they are both situated in one Parallel of the Aequator, the Ship is not to be guided unto that Quarter, in which this other place from the first lieth, or which is ex­tended from the first to the other; for the Ship would never arrive at the other place, but would 60 go with infinite windings about the Earth to­wards the Poles: But the Course must be made into the Quarter of the East or West; for whilst that the Ship tendeth unto that, it describeth by its Motion the Parallels of the Aequator, and so arriveth at the other place.

3. When a Voyage is to be made from one place to another, which are neither in one Meri­dian, nor both in the Aequator, neither in one Parallel of the Aequator; the Ship must not be guided to that Quarter in which the other place from the first lieth; for it would never arrive to the other place, but the Motion of the Ship would describe the Loxodrome, which would not pass through another place: But the Course must be directed unto that Quarter into which (whilst the Ship moveth) it describeth the Loxodrome, which passeth through another place into that Quarter, whose Angle with the Meridian is equal to the Inclination, or the Loxodrome, which pas­seth through these two places.

Proposition XIII.
Infinite Loxodromes may proceed, or be conceived from any place of the Earth, as there are infi­nite Verticals; but yet there are only 28 rec­koned about every place, viz. 7 in the Quadrant, between the Meridian of the place, and the Pa­rallel of the place, so that they divide that right Angle into 8 equal parts, and the 2 vicine are distant an equal Angle; Yet the Parallel it self is termed an Eighth Loxodrome.

BUt they are called by the same Names by which the Winds, or Quarters are named. On the Globe they are beheld to proceed and turn round about the Earth from the Center of the Compass, or also from other Points of the Meridian. But in Nautick use, the Intermedial Loxodromes are denominated by a distance from the adjacent Loxodromes: For Example, in a third part, a fourth part more North, more East.

Proposition XIV.
A Loxodrome intercepted between two places is almost, or according to the sense, equal to the Hypothenusa of a right Lined plain Triangle, whose one Cathetus is of an equal distance of Latitude of those two places; the other Cathe­tus is of an equal difference of Longitude of the places taken in the Parallel, which is in the Middle, between the Parallel of those two places.

SUch Triangles are termed Loxodromical; but places very near are to be taken for an ac­curate Calculation, that a small portion may be interposed, viz. places whose difference of La­titude is only of one Scruple.

Proposition XV.
The Parts of the Loxodrome intercepted between Parallels distant by an equal Interval are Equal.

THerefore many small Loxodromical Tri­angles are conceived in each Loxodrome; of which, if that the Loxodrome of one be sup­puted, you have the quantity of the Loxodrome from one place into another, whose Latitude is known.

Proposition XVI.
The Latitude, and difference of Longitude of two places being given, to find out the Loxodrome, by which you may Sail from one place to another; or two places being given on the Globe, or Map, to find out the Quarter unto which the Ship is to Sail, or to be brought from one place to the other.10

THis is the chief, or rather the only Prob­lem of the whole Art of Navigation, un­to which all the rest are to be referred. If that there be no difference of Latitude, the Loxodrome shall not be the Way of the Ship, but the Pa­rallel of those places which yet is commonly termed the Eighth Loxodrome; because after the same Mode (as the other Loxodromes) it is gene­rated by the Motion of the Ship, which is di­rected 20 to the Eastern or Western chief Quarter. If that therefore there be no difference of Lati­tude, they say that the Eighth Loxodrome ought to be taken, and the Ship must be Steered to the chief Oriental, or Occidental Quarter in the whole Navigation. For although it be not directed to the appointed place, yet by this false Direction the Ship shall be brought to the place.

If that there be no difference of Longitude, the Way of the Ship shall not be Loxodromical; 30 but a part of the Meridian in which both the places lye, and the Quarter of the North or South is taken for the Direction of the Ship.

But if the places given be of a different Lati­tude and Longitude, and that you are minded to work by the Globe, let the given Latitude be noted on the Brazen Meridian; and if the Pa­rallel of one Latitude have in it the Center of any Compass, or from whence the Loxodromical Lines were drawn; let this be brought on the 40 Globe to the Meridian, under the noted Degrees of Latitude; then let the Globe be turned round until so many Degrees of the Aequator pass through the Meridian, as there are Degrees in the difference of Longitude; and then let it be ob­served, whether any Point of the Loxodrome (brought from the Center) be under the noted Point of the Meridian, that is, the Loxodrome sought, and it sheweth unto what Quarter the Ship is to be directed, that it may arrive from 50 the given place unto the place given. If that there be no Point of the Loxodrome under the noted Point of the Meridian, the Loxodrome In­termedial between those two near to that Point must be taken.

But if that the Center of any Compass be to b [...] found in neither Parallel of the Latitude from which the Loxodromes were drawn, let some Loxodrome be chosen which may appear near to that demanded, and let it be brought to one 60 Point of the noted Latitude, or of the Meridian; and let the Globe be turned (as before) until that the difference of Longitude pass through the Me­ridian.

This being done, if that any Point of the assumed Loxodrome be under either noted Point of the Meridian, the taken Loxodrome shall be that which is demanded. If that such a Point be not found, another Loxodrome must be taken, and you must do as before, until such an one be found; any Point of which being found, let it be removed under the other noted Point of the Meridian, or at least no long Interval from it, and the Loxodrome shall be denominated from those nigh it, amongst which it is to be conceived as the midst.

In Sea Charts it is performed after this Mode, as the Quarter of one place is found from ano­ther, which Method in Maps of equal Degrees of Latitude is faulty; but in Maps of unequal Degrees of Latitude, it accurately enough disco­vers the Loxodrome or Quarter unto which the Ship is to be Sailed.

Also Mariners have another Method easie enough, in which by the Solution of a Plain right Angled Triangle the Loxodrome of Navi­gation is found; but to that Method they use a Table, which they call a Table of Increasing La­titude.

CHAP. IX.
Of the Chief Problem of the Art of Navigation, viz. of finding out a Place in the Maps, unto which the Voyage being per­formed, we arrive at a certain time; or of finding out the Lon­gitude, and Latitude of this Place.

Proposition I.
The Quarter can't be known unto which the Ship is to be Sailed, that it may come to the ap­pointed place, except that the place be known in which the Ship was at that time.

WE have said in the former Chapter, that this is the chief Problem of the Mari­ners Art, concerning the finding out of the Quarter to which the Ship is to be directed; but that can't be found, except that the place be known whence the Ship is to be directed; therefore the Solution of the Problem for finding out the Place is necessary.

Proposition II.
To find the Place in the Maps, at which the Ship arriveth, or toucheth at any time.

THis is that Work which the Dutch call, Het besteck in de Pas-kae [...]. They note with a Pin every Day on the Map the place to which they suppose the Ship to have touched, that by this means they may discover in what place they are, and unto what Quarter the Ship [Page 143] is to be Sailed. They use a threefold Me­thod in this Affair, as they suppose this or that to be more rightly observed.

1. The Rhumb being observed in which the Ship was directed from the place of the first Day, or from the place given on the Map, or the Rhumb in which the Ship was moved, and the quantity in the Interim of the Voyage made, being observed. These two things being known, the place of the Ship is found thus on the Map: 10 Let the Rule, or Compass be taken, and one Shank of it be applyed to the place of the former Day, or from which the Ship departed; let the other Shank be applyed to the Vicine Line, which re­presents the observed Quarter, or Course: Let the Point of the Shank be noted with Chalk, which is eminent over the place of the Depar­ture. Then by the Interval of the Compass, let the Miles of the performed Voyage be taken from the opposite Scale, and let one Foot of the Com­pass 20 be put upon the place of the Departure; but let the Rule be moved on the Line of the Quarter until the other Foot of the Compass touch the noted Point of the Rule. The place of the Map that is subject to that Point in that situa­tion of the Rule, is that demanded, viz. in which the Ship then is.

But if that you determine to find out more accurately the Point on the Map by Calculation, or the place of the Ship it self, the Problem shall 30 be this: The Latitude and Longitude of one place being given, and the Quarter being given in which they Sailed unto the other place, with the Voyage performed, to find out the Latitude and Longi­tude of the other place. For these being found, you may more accurately note the place of the Ship on the Map.

2. The Quarter being observed in one known place, to another unknown, and the Latitude of this other, or Elevation of this Pole being ob­served,40 to find the Situation of this other place on the Map.

Let one Shank of the Rule be applied to the Quarter observed near the place; and let the o­ther Shank be placed on the place known (or whence the Voyage is begun) and make there on the Shank a Mark with a Chalk; then let the Shank applied to the Quarter be moved until the other noted Point of the Shank applied to the Quarter fall in on the Parallel of the observed 50 Latitude. For the Point of the falling in, is the place sought, viz. the place of the Ship. But if that there be no Parallel of Latitude observed on the Map, let the Degrees intercepted between this Latitude and the Vicine Parallel,) be taken by the interval of the Compass, on the Lateral Line. And let the Rule in the Line of the Quar­ter, and one Foot of the Compass, be moved to­gether in this Parallel, until the other Foot of the Compass, and the noted Shank do meet; the 60 Point of the meeting sheweth the place of the Ship. Seamen use two Pair of Compasses.

If that you will determine more accurately by the Calculation of the place demanded on the Map, or Earth it self, the Problem is this: The Latitude and Longitude of one place being given, and the Quarter in which the Navigation is ap­pointed to another place, and the Latitude of this place given to find his Longitude; for the Latitude and Longitude given is the place it self.

3. The quantity of the Voyage performed, from one known place to another unknown, be­ing observed, and the Latitude of this other be­ing observed, to find this other on the Maps.

Let the quantity of the Voyage performed, be taken by the Interval of the Compass, from the opposite Scale. Then if the Parallel through the Degree of Latitude be observed on the Map, let one Foot of the Compass be placed on the noted place, the other Foot on this Parallel. This Point shall be the place demanded. But if the Parallel pass not through the Degree of La­titude, let one Shank of the Rule be applied to the Vicine Parallel; on the other Shank let the Degree of Latitude be noted, and let the Rule be moved until the other Foot of the Compass toucheth the noted Point of the Rule. The place of the Map subject to the Point in this Situation shall be the sought for place of the Ship.

If that a more accurate invention is required by Calculation, the Problem shall be this: The Latitude and Longitude of one place being given, and the distance of the other on the Line of Na­vigation, and the Latitude of this, to find out the Latitude of this other. For this being known, when the Latitude is observed you have the Situ­ation of the place it self on the Maps, or Earth.

The 4th and 5th Method also of finding out of this place is also given, viz. in which the Longitude of the other, or sought for place is supposed to be observed; but the Latitude is unknown. But because that very seldom the Longitude can be observed on the Sea, therefore this Method is omitted, as useless. But he that desireth more concerning this Method, let him read Snellius, Stevens, Metius and others that have treated at large thereof.

Proposition III.
To conjecture to what Quarter the Ship is moved, and in what Rhumb, although the Signs be fal­lacious.

IN this solution of the former Proposition for the finding out the place of a Ship, those things as noted were taken and observed, 1. The Quarter unto which the Ship is moved, and the Rhumb in which. 2. The way made. 3. The Latitude of the place unto which it hath arrived. Now therefore we must shew how these three may be observed on the Sea, that they may be used for the finding out the place; for if that these be not rightly known, or observed, the true place shall neither be found or discovered. First therefore let us see concerning the Quarter of the Course of the Ship, and the Rhumb.

The Pilots know the Quarter from the Com­pass, or Loadstone; For what Quarter, or Rhumb of the Compass agreeth with the Line of the conceived Longitude of the Ship, the same is put into the Quarter of the Ship to be moved, and to describe its Rhumb. For they seldome use [Page 144] the Sign taken from the Quarter of the appa­rent rising and setting of the Sun, which they compute.

These Signs may be corrupted by divers causes, so that they may deceive in shewing the Rhumb, or Quarter. 1. If that the Declination of the Magnetick Needle, be uncertain in that place, and therefore the Quarters of the Compass do not shew the true Quarters. 2. If that the Sea in that place hath a Flux to a certain place; for it will 10 carry the Ship from the true Rhumb, although the Ship be directed to the same Quarter: The Fluxes and Refluxes are the frequent cause of this Error. And in many places of the Torrid Zone, a general motion is of force, and in many places a stated and fixed motion from stated Winds. 3. Winds, especially Storms remove the Ship from the Rhumb of their Voyage, although they ply in the same Quarter. 4. The Fluxes of the Sea, which are carried towards other Quar­ters, 20 and carry the Ship with it. 5. The Rudder and Helm cannot be moved by him that steer­eth unto any Quarter, as it ought to be, the Waves of the Sea obstructing it. All these hin­der the Ship to be moved in the same Rhumb, whose Quarters are shewed by the Compass. But how much it is drawn aside must be learned by conjecture from the Vehemency of the Flood, and of its Quarter, and the like; but the Method is very imperfect.30

Proposition IV.
To cast up the Voyage made upon the Rhumb, to measure it at the given time from the given place.

PIlots conjecture the same, 1. When they ob­serve or know by experience what Course a Ship is wont to make, with such a Wind. 2. If 40 that they have Sailed in the same Meridian, or vicine Line with any Wind, and have observed the Latitude of the place, in the beginning of the mo­tion, and the Latitude of the place, in the fol­lowing time. For the difference of Latitude turn­ed into Miles, sheweth the Course made for so long a space of time, and such a Wind. Whence for the time given and such a Wind continuing, the Course made is collected. 3. With more Industry they measure the 50 Course performed by a Boat and String; one end of which is fastned to the Boat, and the other with the Globe is in the Ship; for the Ship remains unmoveable. Sailing is permitted to the Boat until it be removed 10 or 12 Orgyas of the String, and the time elapsed between is observed. And from this, for any time of the performed Course of the Ship is found out.

The Signs of the performed Sailing of the Ship are corrupted, and rendred uncertain by 60 divers Ways; even uncertain of themselves, seeing they are meet Conjectures. 1. Often­times the Ship makes lesser, or greater Way than the Conjecture affords, viz. because in many places of the Sea the Flux is unto a certain Quarter, or the Billows are rouled unto a certain Quarter. If therefore the Ship be directed into the same Quarter, the Way made will be greater than the Conjecture maketh it; but if into a contrary it will be lesser. 2. Because the Ship is carried by other Causes into other Quarters, and so by Windings arriveth at another place. 3. The Winds are variously changed. 4. By how much a Ship hath the greater Altitude, by so much its Motion seemeth more slow, though it be not so.

Proposition V.
To observe the Latitude of a place to which a Ship is arrived.

THe Sea-men observe it by the Sun in the Day, and by the Stars in the Night. They use three Instruments, viz. the Astrolabe, the Radius, and the Triangle.

Proposition VI.
From whence it is manifest, That the Methods used by Sea-men, to find the places on the Maps to which they have arrived, are fallacious; because that they can neither be certain of the Rhumb, or Quarter of the Way, or of the Quan­tity of the Way made, or of the observed Lati­tude of the place: Yet the observation of the Latitude of the place unto which they are ar­rived, because that it is not less subject to Error, especially the Air and Sea being tranquillous, may be exempted from this Fallacy.

BUt from that alone the place it self is not found on the Map, or Earth, but a second is required, viz. either a distance from another place given, or a Rhumb by which they Sail from the given place to that; or lastly, the Longitude of that place from this. We have said, that the Ob­servation of the Way made, or Distance is un­certain, as also that of the Rhumb. Therefore they return back to find out the Longitude of the place. For the Latitude and Longitude of the place being known, the place it self is found on the Maps, and determined on the Globe of the Earth.

Whence it is evident, That the Art of Navi­gation requires the Solution of this Problem to the making up of its perfection: viz. to find out the Longitude of the place where we are at any time, or on any day.

CHAP. X.
Of the Variation of the Weather.

ACcording to the Opinion of Aristotle, Pliny, and others, the Variation of the Weather proceed from these Reasons: Viz. When the Sun riseth fair and clear, it denotes a fair Day; but if yellow, or deadish, it signifies a Tempest: When the Sun-Beams are red and short at the Rising, Rain proceeds; if the Clouds, or Mists, make a [Page 145] Circle about the Sun or Moon, by how much the greater the Circle is, by so much the greater shall the Tempest be; and if there be two Cir­cles, the Tempest will be greater: Also at the Rising of the Sun, if the Clouds are red, 'tis a sign of a great Tempest. When the Moon riseth bright, and shineth with a pure colour, 'tis a sign of Fair weather; if Red, signifies Wind; and if Black, Rain. If the Horns of the New Moon appear sharp, it denotes Fair Weather; but 10 if blunt, otherwise. If the Sun setteth Red, it denotes a Fair day; but if the Heavens are Red in the Morning, it signifies a Tempest. When a Cloud riseth in the West, it shews Rain; and when the Wind is in the South, it produceth Heat.

CHAP. XI.20
Of TIDES; High and Low Waters.

TIDES by Mariners ought to be well and carefully observed, otherwise great dan­gers may ensue in the entring into Ports, passing 30 by Flats and the like. Now for the better knowledge of the Tides, or the Increase and De­crease of the Sea, 'tis agreed that the cause there­of proceeds from the Moon, which altereth the Tides sooner or later, according to the Age and Variation of the Moon. Therefore to give you a Rule how you may (knowing the Age of the Moon) find out the Tides in any part of the World: Observe this Rule; First, Note what Moon makes a Full-Sea at the place desired, as also the Hour 40 appropriate to the said Point of the Compass; which done, multiply the Age of the Moon by 4, divide the Product by 5, and add to the Quotient the Hour which makes Full-Sea in that place upon the Change Day: If it exceed 12, cast away 12 so often as you may, and the Hour of the Full Sea remaineth; and to every Vnite that remaineth upon your division, allow 12 Minutes, which add to the Hours; as if there remaineth 1, add 12 Minutes; if 2, add 24; if 3, add 36,50 and so forth. As for Example, The Moon being 12 Days old, to know what Hour 'tis High-water at London-Bridge. High-water being at 3 of the Clock, then according to the former Rule, multiply the Age of the Moon (which is 12) by 4, which makes 48; which divide by 5, and the Quotient will be 9, and 3 remaining, which added to 3, makes 12 Hours, 36 Minutes, which is the time of High-water at the same place: And by this Rule knowing what Moon 60 makes a Full-Sea thereat, you may know the Tides at any place; and this is to be performed by Tables fitted for the purpose.

And seeing that the Alteration of the Tides doth proceed through the effects and operation of the Moon, it will be necessary to give you her Motions, by which the Tides are known.

The Motions of the Moon are of two kinds, viz. a Natural, and a Violent Motion: Her Natu­ral Motion is from West to East, contrary to the Motion of the First-mover, wherein the Moon hath three differences of moving, viz. a swift, a mean, and a slow Motion, all which is per­formed in 27 Days, and 8 Hours, nearest through all the Degrees of the Zodiack.

Her Violent Motion is from the East to­wards the West, and is caused by the violent swiftness of the Diurnal Motion of the Primum Mobile, in which Motion the Moon is carried about the Earth in 24 Hours, and 50 Minutes, nearest one day with another; for although the Diurnal Period of the First-mover be performed in 24 Hours; yet because the Moon every day in her slowest Natural Motion moveth 12 De­grees, therefore she is not carried about the Earth until that her Motion be also carried about, which is in 24 Hours, and 50 Minutes near­est.

Her slow Motion is in the Point of Auge, or Apogeo, as being then farthest distant from the Earth, and then she moveth 12 Degrees in every Day.

Her swift Motion is in the Opposite of the Auge, or Apogeo, and then is nearest to the Earth, at which time she moveth 14 Degrees in every Day, or 24 Hours, with some few Minutes diffe­rence. And so between these two Points is her mean Motion, and then she moveth 13 Degrees nearest.

In every 24 Hours the Moon departs from the Sun 12 Degrees, or 48 Minutes of time, and in this Separation she moveth from the Sun East­wards, until she be at the Full; for between the Change and the Full it is called the Moons Sepa­ration from the Sun; so that between the Full and the Change 'tis called the Moons Application to the Sun, in which time of Application she is to be Westward of the Sun, as in her Separation she is to be Eastward.

Then if the Moon doth move 48 Minutes of time in 24 Hours, it is plain that she moveth 24 Minutes in 12 Hours, which is 2 Minutes in every Hour. And such as is the difference of her Motion, such is the Alteration of the Tides, so that every Tide differeth from the former 12 Minutes; because there is 6 Hours between Tide and Tide, and in every Hour the course of Flowing and Reflowing altereth 2 Minutes, by which it is visible, that in 24 Hours the 4 Tides of Ebbing and Flowing differ 48 Minutes of time.

CHAP. XII.
Sheweth how to work your Obser­vation, made at any STAR that riseth or sets.10

THe Rule for the STARS is the same as for the Sun, there being no difference, but in the Declination. Therefore for a General Rule observe, The Declination, which is of contrary denomination; As for Example, that which is South when you are in North Latitude, or North when in South Latitude, is to be sub­tracted from the Complement of the Meridian Altitude, except you are between the Aequi­noctial and the Star; or that the Stars Declina­tion 20 is greater than its Distance from your Ze­nith, for in such case the Complement of the Stars Altitude, or Zenith Distance from the De­clination of the same Star is to be subtracted, and the Remainder will be the Distance of your Zenith from the Aequinoctial, which is your La­titude.

Note, That the Stars that set not, come also to the Meridian under the Pole, and then their Altitude is least of all. For to know when a 30 Star draws near the Meridian under the Pole, take a Plummet, or a Thread with Lead at the end, and hold it so that it cuts the North Star in the middle; and if the Star you observe begins to draw near the Thread, it will not be far from the Meridian. Observe then its Altitude several times, until you find it ascend or rise; for the least of all will be the Stars Meridian Al­titude, to which if you add the Complement of its Declination, or Pole Distance, you shall have 40 the height of the Pole.

If you observe the Meridian Altitude of a Star that sets not when it is above the Pole, whose height you would know, only subtract the Com­plement of that Stars Declination from its highest Meridian Altitude, and the Remainder is the height of the Pole.

The Height of the Pole of the Stars may be known without their Declination, or Pole Distance, and that after this manner: Observe the highest 50 and lowest Meridian Altitude of a Star that doth not set, and add them together, the half of the Sum will be the height of the Pole.

The same is to be understood of any Star that doth not set, as well in South as in North Latitude: But you must not alter your Parallel until both Observations are made; for if you should Sail by any other Rhumb than East or West, it will cause some Error, which will be so much the greater the further you are from the 60 Parallel of your first Observation, when you observe the lowest Altitude of the Star.

CHAP. XIII.
Of the North, or Pole-Star, with a Table of its Distance from the Pole-Artick, for the four Chief Points of the Compass the Guards are upon; as also to know when the Guards are upon each Point of the Compass named on the said Table.

THe POLE-STAR is so called, as being nearest to the North-Pole, from which it is distant 2 Deg. 22 Min. This Star hath a slower Motion than any other, as having a lesser Circuit to move in, which it finisheth in 24 Hours, as all other Stars do theirs.

The TABLE.
When the brightest of the Guards is D. M. 
North, subtract2. 4.from the Pole-Star Alti­tude.
East, add—1. 10.to the Pole-Star Alti­tude.
South, add—2. 4.to your Observation at the North-Star.
West, subtract1. 10.from the Pole-Star Alti­tude; and the Re­mainder will be the height of the Pole, or Latitude you are in.

For your knowing which of the 4 Points of the Compass the Guards are upon from the North-Star, Suppose a Line drawn from your Zenith through the Pole-Star to the Horizon, and that shall be a Line of North or South, by which you shall know when the Guards are North or South; For when you perceive the brightest of the Guards exactly on that Line under the Pole-Star, you may conclude that the Guards are North; but when the brightest of the Guards is on the same Line perpendicularly above the Pole-Star, then the Guards are South; as for the other two Points set down in the Table. Suppose like­wise a Line of East and West drawn Parallel to the Horizon through the Pole-Star; and when you see the brightest of the Guards on that Line with the Pole-Star, and to the Right-hand, you may conclude the Guards are East or West.

[Page 147] For the finding the height of the Pole-Artick by the North-Star, and the Guards, you must stay until the brightest of the Guards be ex­actly upon one of the Points of the Compass set down in the Table, (viz. either East, West, North, or South, for the Pole-Star) that being the best time to observe the Altitude of the North-Star; to which if you add, or subtract what the Table sheweth, you shall have the height of the Pole.

Note, That the Guards are East or West, when you find that the brightest of them is neither higher, or lower than the North-Star; which may be soon discovered by the Cross-Staff, or Quadrant, by observing the Altitude of the North-Star.

DYALLING, OR HOROGRAPHY.

CHAP. I.
The several Sorts of SVN-DYALS.

DYALS are either moveable, being such that may be carryed about them, as the Cylinder and certain little Boxes, whose 10 Needle (like Indexes) are touch'd with the Load-Stone; or Immoveable, that is, fixt to some certain place. They are also Regular, or Irregular; Regu­lar are those that are described in a Plain, dispo­sed towards some one determined principal part of the World; For Example, direct East, or direct West. The Irregular are those which do not di­rectly point to those principal parts of the World, but rather decline from them.

1. Of those Regular, the first is the Horizon­tal; 20 the second, the Vertical Southward; the the third, the Vertical Northwards; the fourth, the Meridian East; the fifth, the Meridian West; the sixth, the Aequinoctial above; the seventh, the Aequi­noctial below; the eighth, the Polar above; and the ninth, the Polar beneath.

The Horizontal is that which is Aequidistant towards the Horizon.

The Vertical is that which is perpendicularly erected above the Horizon, and tends directly 30 towards the Vertical Point, and it is Parallel to the Primary Vertical Circle, and this is double, viz. North Vertical, as looking towards the other which is South Vertical.

The two Meridians, viz. the Eastern and West­ern, each of them have their several ways which are Aequidistant from the Meridian Circle.

The two Aequinoctials are those which each of them their several ways are Aequidistant from the Aequator, the one above, the other beneath 40 the Horizon.

The two Polars are those which each of them their several ways, the one above, the other beneath, are Parallel to the Axis of the World.

The Irregular are either Declinant, or Inclinant.

The Declinant is that which is Aequidistant from any Vertical Circle, and it is therefore also not amiss called Vertical; but it declines from the Primary Vertical which is proporly so called, and it is of two sorts; for there is one which de­clines from the South, either to the East, or West; and another that declines from the North, either to the East, or West.

The Inclinant is that which falls off from the Vertical Point, and Inclines towards the Horizon, as being not Aequidistant from it.

In respect of the Hours, Dyals are divided in Astronomical, Italick, Babilonick, Antient, or Ju­daick.

The Astronomical declares equal Hours from Noon to Midnight, and from Midnight to Noon again; and it is principally in use all over Eu­rope.

The Italick reckons equal Hours from West to West, so as that of the 24 Hours, that is said to be the first Hour which is the Hour of the Suns setting, and this would be called by us the 6th, 7th, or 8th Evening Hour, whereas on the con­trary the Babilonick reckons equal Hours from Sun-rising to Sun-rising.

The Ancient, or Babilonick reckons unequal Hours, as Chronology shews more at large. I shall therefore treat only of Astronomical Dyals, because the knowledge of them leads to all the rest.

CHAP. II.
What things in General are neces­sary for the Framing of a SVN. DYAL.

1. THe Elevation of the Pole is to be known, by which we are to determine of the Center of the Hours, the Altitude of the Style, the ordering of the Dyal it self, and all other things of that nature. Also the way of finding the Meridian Line is to be known, to the end the Meridian Line of the Dyal may be rightly pla­ced under the Meridian of the place assigned. The Artist must also be furnish'd with a Rule and Compass, as also with an Astronomical Quadrant, [Page]

To the Worshipfull Thomas Stringer of Ivy Church near Salisbury in Wiltshire Esq.

[Page] [Page 149] rightly divided into 90 Degrees, and where­in also there is rightly to be described the Horary Line according to the Scheme; together with the Horary Points, also according to the Scheme.

[figure]

10

2. To perfect this Sun-Dyal three things in general are necessary; first, The description of the Hours in the given Plain; Secondly, The 20 contrivance of the Style, that is, as to the Form and Altitude of it, and in what place it ought to be fix'd; And, Thirdly, The Applica­tion and Disposition of the Dyal it self thus fi­nish'd.

It is to be noted, first in general for the descri­bing of the Hours, that there are commonly pre­suppos'd two right Lines cutting each other Cross-ways to right Angles, whereof the one is the Meridian Line, or Line of the 12th Hour; 30 the other is the Occult Line, which cuts the first Cross-ways to right Angles: And this is also vulgarly called the Line of Hours, because therein are designed the Horary Points; but more properly the Aequinoctial Line, because it repre­sents the Aequinoctial Circle, which is the prime Rule of all Hours.

Note, Secondly, That all Hours (at least Astro­nomical, or Equal, are distinguished proportio­nably among themselves by an Interval of 15 40 Degrees orderly towards the Aequinoctial Circle; because in the space of one of these Hours the Sun runs 15 Meridians, which pass through so many Degrees of the Aequator, whereupon an Astronomical Hour is thus defin'd. An Hour is the Space of Time, in which the Sun runs through 15 Meridians, or in which 15 Degrees of the Aequator ascend above the Horizon, as hath been before observed.

Note, Thirdly, That there is need of a Plum-Line, 50 or Perpendicular, for the right placing and ordering of the Dyal, the better to examine whe­ther it be Parallel to the Horizon, or Perpendi­cularly Vertical, &c.

CHAP. III.
To Frame an HORIZONTAL-DYAL.60

FRom what hath been said in the former Chapter, 'tis to be concluded that three things are to be performed; First, The designing of the Horary Points; Secondly, To find the Center of the Hours, from which the Hours, Circles, or Lines are to be drawn through Points already found: And, Thirdly, the fixing the place of the Style, and its Altitude. All which will be more distinctly set forth in these following Problems.

Problem I.
To Design the Horary Points.

[figure]

DRaw two Lines Cross-ways, viz. the Line a, b, (according to this Figure) which is to be the Line of the 12th Hour, and also the obscure Line c, d, which is to be the Aequi­noctial, and to be expunged so soon as the Dyal is compleated.

Next, from the Astronomical Quadrant, or Semi­circle. For the purpose; Let the Horary Points be transferred by the help of the Compass to the said Aequinoctial Line; that is to say, Let those Points by a convenient extension of the Compass be taken off from the Instrument, by fixing one Foot of the Compass in the Concourse of the Me­ridian, and Aequinoctial Line, and extending the other to the Spaces of the Hour sought; then keeping that extension, design the sought Points in the Dyal, fixing the same Foot of the Compass likewise in the Concourse of the Aequinoctial and Meridian Line of the said Dyal.

Observe, That the Morning-Hours are drawn in that part which is next the Right-hand, the Evening-Hours in the opposite part. Note, Se­condly, That in this Aequinoctial Line there are only found of the Morning-Hours, 11, 10, 9, 8, 7; of the Evening, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5. Note, Thirdly, That after the Center of the Hours is found, the de­scription of the rest will of course be very easie as hereafter shall be shewed.

Problem II.
To find the Center of the Dyal, or of the Hour.

HEre chief regard is to be had of the Ele­vation of the Pole; for not any Dyal of this sort will declare the Hours in any place, but only under a certain Elevation of the Pole, which belongs to that Region for which the Dyal is made.

Suppose that in this Region or Countrey, the Pole be elevated 49 Degrees, which is 41; then place the Foot of the Compass in the Center of the Instrument, and extend the other Foot from [Page 150] thence to the Aequinoctial Line, described in the said Instrument, in which part the 41th Degree is cut by the Radius, numbring from the Line of of the 12th Hour. This extension of the Com­pass transfer upon the Dyal, fixing one Foot of the Compass in the Concourse of the Meridian, and Aequinoctial Line, viz. e; the other fix in a part of the Meridian Line, that is, in f, and determine that point to be the Center of the Hours; for from thence, and through each point mark'd 10 in the Aequinoctial Line are all the Lines to be drawn, which some call the Arches of the Hours, as in the Scheme doth appear.

[figure]

20

But there is also to be drawn through that Center of the Hours a Line Parallel to the Aequi­noctial, which is to be the Line of the 6th Hour 30 both for Morning and Evening. Also the Lines of the Hours IV and V in the Evening, are to be drawn out beyond the Center of Hours; for the Hours IV, and V in the Morning, (in like manner as the Lines of the Hours VII and VIII in the Morning) are to be drawn further out to design the Hours VII and VIII in the Evening. Thus you have a perfect description of an Horizontal Dyal, which may be drawn in what Figure you please, and may set down the Characters of the 40 Hours at the ends of the Lines: Then the Aequinoctial a, b, is to be expunged.

Problem III.
To determine the Place and Altitude of the Style.

NOt only the Center of the Hours in these sorts of Dyals, but also the place of the 50 Style is in the Meridian Line

Note, First, That this Style is commonly Tri­angular, and its Basis lyeth upon the Meridian Line, and terminates in the Center of the Hours, but it rises in Altitude towards the Aequinoctial Line, as is observed in the Scheme of the first Problem.

Note, Secondly, That this Style hath no de­term [...]ed Altitude, except in respect of the place in which it is fixt; for one part of the Basis of that 60 Triangle being Plac't in the Center of Hours that is in [...], by how much this Basis shall be, whence consequently the other part of this side will be more distant from the Center; so much the more is the Altitude of the Style to be, and so much the bigger will the whole Triangle be. Thus the Triangle o, n, f, or m, l, f, or g, e, f, will be bigger than k, h, f. Moreover such ought to be the Altitude of the Style that the side f, o, which is subtended to the right Angle n, or l, or h, may agree with the Axis of the World, and tend directly to the Pole. And it is therefore called the Axis, because it agrees with the Axis of the World; and that side only, or shadow projected from it designs the Hours. There­fore that a fit Altitude of this nature may be had.

Note, Thirdly, That the Degrees of the Poles Altitude ought to be numbred, and recourse had to the Instrument, by fixing the Foot of the Com­pass in the Center thereof, and then extending the other to that part of the Aequinoctial Line where­in the Radius cuts that Degree, which answers to the number of Degrees of the Poles Elevation; For Example; Supposing that in this Countrey the Pole is Elevated 49 Degrees, the Foot of the Compass ought to be extended to that part where­in the 49th Degree is cut by the Radius, numbring from the Line of the 12th Hour. This extension of the Compass being made, is to be transferred to the Dyal in this manner; fix one Foot of the Compass thus opened in the Concourse of the Aequi­noctial, and Meridian Lines, that is, in e; then with the other Foot mark in the Aequinoctial Line the Point g. Lastly, from f, the Center of the Hours draw through the said Point g, the f, k, g, m, o, without stint: This will give the sought Altitude of the Style; for if the Base be only f, h, the whole Style and its Altitude will be f, h, k: O­therwise if the said Base be extended to e, the Style will be f, e, g; if to l, the Syle, will be f, l, m; if to n, the Style will be f, n, o, and so ad infi­nitum.

Note, Fourthly, That the Angle which the said Axis makes at the Center of the Hours, in the Horizontal Dyal hath always the Degrees of of the Poles Elevation; and consequently that in our Hypothesis this Angle is in 49 Degrees.

Note, Fifthly, If in place of a Triangular Style there should be only a right Style erected, such as would be b, k, or e, g, or l, m, or n, o, the extremity of it only would shew the Hours by the Shadow projected from it. But observe that the Horizontal Dyal thus finish'd ought to be so ordered and disposed in its proper place; first that it be Parallel to the Horizon, which is tryed by the use of a Plum-Line, or Level; and some try it by casting in Quicksilver; for if the Plane incline never so little, the Quicksilver will slide into that part. Secondly, the Line of the Hour XII is exactly to be plac'd within the Meridian of the said place, which Meridian, how it is to be found, hath been already declared.

CHAP. IV.
To Draw an Horizontal Dyal by another Method.

ALthough the precedent Method ought not to be unknown to any Horographers, as being (as it were) the Basis and Foundation of [Page 151] all Horography by proper and apparent Princi­ples of the said Praxis; yet there are others (which being of more expedition) may very aptly be made use of, as well for advantage as delight.

The first is by the help of a Rule, usually cal­led a Square, in which are to be inscribed the Degrees of the Astronomical Quadrant, with a fit Center to the opposite side; which Figure is here set down.10

[figure]

In this Rule, rightly placed beneath the Aequi­noctial 20 Line, and by the Meridian a Thread be­ing drawn from the Center through 15 Degrees mark'd in the Rule, the Horary Points are de­signed in the Aequinoctial Line. Then the Cen­ter being plac'd in the Concourse of the Meridian and Aequinoctial Lines, It is brought about until it touch the Meridian near the Degree of the Complement of the Poles Elevation, to find there­by the Center of the Hours. Lastly, The Rule 30 being applied near the Meridian Line, and the Longitude of the Aequinoctial, a point at the De­gree of the Poles Elevation, from whence through the Center of the Hours the Axis is to be drawn to find the Altitude of the Style.

The second Method, is by an Astronomical Quadrant, which is also called an Aequinoctial Arch, or Quarter of a Circle; because it is sup­posed to have a division through 15 Degrees, as it is observed 40 in this Scheme; where you see how it ought to be disposed by the Meridian-Line under the Aequinoctial, and how by a Thread drawn from its Center through 50 15 Degrees, the Horary Points are mark'd in the Aequinoctial Line. Then the like Arch being drawn out of the Concourse of the Aequinoctial, and Meridional Lines in e, from the Point in which it touches the Aequinoctial Line, mark in that Arch the Degree of Elevation, that is, 49. Next, through that Point from the Center e, draw a right Line, through which (at the Section of the said Arch) let another right Line be drawn at right Angles at no limited extent. This in the 60 Meridian Line will mark out the Center of the Hours, and will be instead of an Axis, to de­termine the Altitude of the Style.

[figure]

CHAP. V.
With one Opening of the Compass to describe an Horizontal Dyal.

[figure]

ACcording to this Scheme, the two Lines, viz. the Meridian, and the Aequinoctial, being drawn Cross-wise to right Angles; then opening the Compasses at pleasure, describe a blind Circle from the common Section of the said double Line, mark'd on one side the point of the Hour 3, and on the other the point of the Hour 9. Then, First, From the point f, still at the same opening of the Compass, mark in the Circumference of the Circle here and there the Points l, and p. Secondly, From the point l, mark the point m, in the Aequinoctial Line for the Hour 4. Also, by fetching about the Point of the Compass to a second remove; at the same opening from the said Point of the Hour 4, along this Aequinoctial Line, mark the point n for the Hour 5; and then from the Compass (being four times fetch'd about) as far as the point o, mark the Hour 11. Thirdly, Do the same again on the opposite side, that is, first from the point p, mark the point q in the Aequi­noctial Line for the Hour 8; then from the said point, the Foot of the opening of the Compass being twice measured to r, mark the point of the Hour 7: Afterwards, from the said point of the Hour 7, the opening of the Compasses being four times measured to 5, mark the point of the Hour 1; but the Hour 12 is inserted in the Inter­section of the Meridian, and Aequinoctial Lines, This done, there remains only to be found the points of the Hour 2 on the one side, and 10 on the other. Proceed therefore thus; From the point h, draw a faint right Line on the one side to the point l, the Section in j will mark the Hour 2; on the other side another from h to p, which will in like manner design the Hour 10, in the Intersection of the Aequinoctial at the point n. Lastly, To find the Center of the Hour, and the Axis, seek in the Arch f, j, the Degrees of the Poles Elevation from the point j; also through the Degree of the Poles Elevation draw a right Line from c, the Center of the Circle; and then through that Line, draw at right An­gles another right Line z, p, q. This will deter­mine the Altitude of the Style, and on the other side will mark the Center of the Hours in the Section of the Meridian Line.

CHAP. VI.
To describe the Arches of the Signs in an Horizontal Dyal.

THe Arches of the Signs are those Lines drawn in Dyals, which by the benefit of 10 a Shadow projected from the Gnomon, shew in what Sign, or part of the Zodiack, the Sun is; as also how the Elevation of the Pole being given, the length of the Days may at that time be known, and this is commonly set down at the end of these sort of Arches.

Note, That the Arches of Cancer and Capri­corn describe on each side the Longitude of the Horary Line, to which the Shadow of the Gno­mon extends it self; by which means the Dyal 20 receives thence its proper Figure, as appears by this Scheme.

[figure]

30

And all this is to be performed by an easie Me­thod, proceeding as follows:

First, The Horary being drawn, with the Inter­vals of each middle Hour; Suppose the place of the Style to be in j. the Altitude of the Style to to be h, j, the Apex, or Point of the Style it self 40 to be h, the Center of the Hours to be in a. These things thus granted. First, Draw the right Line H, E, perpendicular to the Axis A, H, and so as to fall upon the point H. Secondly, Through the point E, where it cuts the Meridi­an, draw at right Lines C, E, D, which is to be the Aequinoctial Line, or as it were the Arch of Aries and Libra. Thirdly, Extend the Line E, H, at pleasure, viz. as far as G, this is to be called the Radius of the Aequator. Fourthly,50 From the point H, draw at pleasure the Arch M, G, N. Fifthly, From the point G, towards M, and N, mark the points of the Solar Decli­nations, that is; how far the Sun declines at his entrance into each sign. These Declinations are found by the use of a Quadrant divided into 90 Degrees, by which also draw an Arch by opening the Compasses to that extent: Then bring the Compasses to the extent of 23 1/2 De­grees, applying that Interval to the Arch of the 60 Dyal, so as to mark on the one side, and the other the Points both of Cancer and Capricorn, placing the other Foot of the Compass in the point G, and so proportionally mark on the one side the point of Taurus, and on the other that of Scorpio at the Interval of 11 Degrees, 50 Minutes, and in like manner at the Interval of 20 Degrees, 12 Minutes, mark the points of Ge­mini, and Sagittarius.

Apply the Rule, or Thread to each point of these Polary Declinations, and at the same time to the point H, and so doing, observe in what point the Rule, or Thread touches the Meridian Line, marking at the same time three several Points beneath, and three above the Aequi­noctial Line: For these are the points through which the Arches of the Signs are to be drawn. The three uppermost P, Q, R, serve for the Summer Signs, and the three lower S, T, V, for those of the Winter.

It is to be understood, that by these points of the Meridian Line are to be found the points of the Arches in the Lines of other Hours; yet so as that by the point proper to each Sign all the points of the opposite side may be found. Thus by the Point P, proper to Cancer, will be found all the points through which the Arch of Capricorn is to be drawn; and on the contrary, through the Point V, proper to Capricorn, all the points will be found by which the Arch of Cancer, is to be described. All which the better to exemplifie;

First, for the describing of the Arch of Cancer, apply the Rule, or Thread to the point V, which is the point of Capricorn; then on the other side apply the same Rule, or Thread, to the Point of the Middle Hour, which is next after the Point of the Meridian Hour, designed in the Aequinoctial Line; then where the Rule, or Thread cuts the Line of the first Hour, there mark a Point. Then the Rule being still plac'd in the Point V, draw through the Point of the Hour j, set down in the Aequinoctial Line. Having so done, observe in what part it touches the Line of the Hour 11; and there also mark a Point, still following the foregoing Method, to keep the Rule, or Thread in the same Point V; at the same time the said Rule being applied to the Intervals of the following Middle Hours. Let the Points be mark'd in other Horary Lines, and so you will have all the Points; which being connected together by certain crooked Lines, will give the Arch of Cancer.

Just in the same manner you may describe the Arch of Capricorn from the Point Cancer in P, extending the Rule, or Thread, to each Middle Hour mark'd in the Aequinoctial Line.

CHAP. VII.
To make a Vertical Dyal.

THis is drawn in the same manner on a Regular Wall, and hath the same kind of Style as the Horizontal; however, they differ not only in Situation, but also in this, that in the Ver­tical (for the finding the Center of the Hours) the Degrees of the Polar Elevation are taken; and for the Altitude of the Style, only the De­grees of the Complement; whereas in the Hori­zontal [Page 153] it is quite contrary. But since there is a distinction here to be, between a Vertical to the South, and a Vertical to the North; It is to be observed, First, That the Vertical to the South hath the Center of the Hours, and its Style, up­wards, and shews the Hours from 6 in the Morn­ing to 6, at Noon. Secondly, That the Vertical to the North, is (as it were) a Meridional in­verted; for it hath the Center of Hours down­wards, and falls short in shewing the Hours. For 10 in some parts of France, it shews but from 4 to 8 in the Morning, and likewise in the Afternoon the same number of Hours, and no more. In like manner altogether are described the Arches of the Signs in a Regular Vertical Dyal, as in an Horizontal.

CHAP. VIII.20
To frame a MERIDIONAL DYAL, either to East or West.

A Scheme of both these are already treated of 30 in Chapter III, Problem II. But first of the Meridian East Dayl: First, Draw the Line ab, Horizontal, or Parallel to the Horizon. Secondly, From a, draw a slight Circle at any opening of the Compasses, beginning from the Horizontal Line, namely from h, and that towards the right side where the Oriental Dyal is to be drawn. Thirdly, Seek, or imagine in the Instrument the like Arch, that is, at the same opening of the Compass, then in that Arch cut off the Complement of the Poles 40 Elevation, or which is the same, the Elevation of the Aequator; and transfer that Interval to the Circle drawn from the point d, and let the Arch be cut off; For Example, in the point e. Fourthly, through that point e, and through the extremity of the Horizontal Line a, b, draw the Line e, a, which will be in the Head of an Aequinoctial Line, because therein are to be designed the Horary Points. But before the marking of these points, draw another Line Parallel to that Aequinoctial. Fifthly, About the upper part of the Aequinoctial 50 Line mark at pleasure the Hour 6, and also the like point in the opposite Parallel, so as that be­tween these points the Line of the Hour 6, be made a right Angles. (Note that this Hour 6 is the beginning of the Hours in this kind of Dyal, and that their Intervals are taken from it. Also, that the place of the Style is therein, which is to be fixt in the upper part of that Line, that is, where it goes under within the Horizontal.) Sixthly, From the Horizontal Dyal, or from the Instru­ment 60 transfer hither the Intervals of the Hours, and first the Distance of the Hour I, from XII; which is found in the Horizontal, or in the Instrument, will be in this place the Interval of the Hour V, on the one side, and on the other, of the Hour VIII; also the Distance of the Hour XII from II, will mark the Hour VIII; also the Distance of the Hour III, will be the Interval of the Hour IX; and likewise the Distance of the Line of the Hour VI, of this Dyal; and the same proporti­onal Distance is to be between the Hour V, and XI.

It is to be understood that the same Horary Points which are mark't in the Aequinoctial Line, are also to be mark't in the Parallel, opposite [...] it, to the end the Parallel Horary Lines may be commodiously drawn from Point to Point.

Note, Secondly, That the first Hour of the Sun, which appears in this sort of Dyal, is V, and so forwards as far as II, inclusively; for XII cannot well appear, when as the Dyal is supposed to be within the Meridian Circle.

Note, Thirdly, That the Style in this Dyal is a right Index of a determined Altitude, and is fetcht from an Interval which is found between the point of the Hour VI, and the point of the Hour IX.

Now as for the Meridian West Dyal, it differs not much from the Meridian East Dyal, except that the occult Arch, which is for distinguish­ing the point of the Aequinoctial Line is drawn from the left side; and that in the West Meridi­dian the Evening Hours are to be drawn begin­ing from the First to the 7th inclusively, with the like Intervals, as in the East Meridian: but the First is in the lower place, and so the rest in their order. Moreover, the Hour VI, is the place of the Style, in like manner as the East Meri­dian, and hath the same Altitude.

CHAP. IX.
To describe the Arches of the Signs in this sort of Dyal.

FIrst, From the point in which the Style is erected, draw a right Line to cut all the Lines of the Hours to right Angles, and this will be the Aequinoctial Line, wherein all the middle Hours must be mark't, as hath been mentioned in the discouse of the Horizontal Dyal.

Secondly, From the point in which the Line of the Hour III, from the Aequinoctial is cut, extend the Compass at pleasure to describe an Arch, in which the Solar Declinations may be designed in the same manner, as in the Horizontal Dyal.

Thirdly, The Rule is to be applyed as well to the points of those Declinations, as to the point in which the Line of Hour III, is cut by the Aequinoctial, and at the same time the points are to be observed in which the Line of the Style is cut, as well beneath as above the Style it self.

Fourthly, By applying the Rule, or Thread to those points, as also to each point of the middle Hours, designed in the Aequinoctial, it may be observed in what part the Hour Lines will be reacht, so as that through those points the Arches of the Signs may be drawn.

CHAP. X.
To frame an Aequinoctial Dyal.

IT is so called, as imitating the Aequinoctial Circle divided into 24 equal parts, which are each of 15 Degrees for each Hour. Moreover, be­cause 10 this Dyal is so to be ordered, that it may keep the same Elevation above the Horizon which the Aequator hath for its given place.

The Description of this is easy, and universal for any part of the World, or Elevation of the Pole whatsoever, as appears by the Scheme in Chap. III, Problem 2.

First, Two Lines are to be drawn at right An­gles, whereof the one a, b, is to be the Meridian, 20 the other c, d, the Line of the Hour VI, both Morning and Evening. Secondly, From the com­mon section of both these Lines make a Circle, at pleasure to be divided into 24 equal parts; for in this sort of Dyal the Intervals of all Hours are equal, and altogether alike.

Note, That in the uppermost Aequinoctial the Morning Hours are set down towards the right Hand; and the Evenings towards the left: In the lowermost quite contrary, wherefore take notice that they are false done by the Cutter.30

Also that the uppermost is of use to us, only when the Sun is in the Northern Signs. The low­ermost (which shews fewer Hours than the other) when he is in the Southern Signs.

Note, Secondly, That it hath a right Style, and that fixed Perpendicularly in the Center, and is instead of an Axis, and within the Axis of the World, yet not with any determinate Longitude, but rather at pleasure.

Note, Thirdly, That the Aequinoctial may be 40 so framed in the Globe, that it may shew the Hours without a Style, only by the extremity of the Shadow going back by Degrees into the adverse part, according to the continual access of the Suns Irradiation. But upon this occasion the Hours must be set down in another or­der.

50

CHAP. XI.
To describe the Arches of the Signs in an Aeqninoctial Dyal.

FIrst, Design the Longitude of the Style drawn out from the Center in the Line of the 60 6th Hour. Secondly, From the extream Point of that Longitude, draw at pleasure, a Perpendi­cular to the Line of the 6th Hour. Thirdly, From the same point of that Longitude draw also at pleasure an Arch at the extream part of the Perpendicular Line last mentioned; but this Arch is to be directed only towards one side, namely, that opposite to the Meridian Line; in which Arch, according to the usual manner let 3 points of Solary Declinations be mark't. Fourthly, The Rule, or Thread being applyed to the points of those Declinations, and at the same time to the extream point of the Longitude of the Style, observe what points are likewise mark't in the Line of the 6th Hour; And at length. Fifthly, From the Center of the Dyal through those 3 points of the Line of the 6th Hour, describe 3 Circles. These will be the Ar­ches proper to those 6 Signs which serve to this Aequinoctial Horizon, wheither above or be­neath.

CHAP. XII.
To frame a Polar Dyal.

THis is Parallel to the Axis of the World, and lies as it were in it, as hath been al­ready Treated of; Wherefore it is to be Eleva­ted above the Horizontal Plane, as many De­grees as the Pole of the World. The lowermost hath only 4 Hours apparent all over Frame, namely towards the right side, the Morning Hours IV, and V towards the left side, the Evening Hours VII, and VIII; But the uppermost shews the Hours, from VII in the Morning to V in the Evening inclusively; but no VI, because the Sun at the 6th Hour is Parallel to the Dyal, and only glan­ces upon the side thereof, and is thus described.

First, After the usual manner, draw the Meridi­an Line a, b, and the Aequinoctial c, d, cutting each other cross ways at right Angles. Secondly, And on each side make 2 Parallels at the Aequi­noctial, at what distance you please. Thirdly, Let the Horary Points be transfer'd upon the Aequi­noctial Line from the Instrument, in the same Method as mentioned in Chap. VIII, for the Oriental and Occidental Dyals. Fourthly, Through those Points draw the Hour Lines Parallel to each other; which that it may be the more com­modiously done, let the same Points be marked in those Lines which are Parallel to the Aequi­noctial. Fifthly, The Gnomon, or Style in the Me­ridian Line is to be Perpendicularly streight, and to have a determinate Altitude, according to the Distance of the Meridian Line, from the Hour, III. In the Scheme this sort of Dyal is taken notice of in Chap. III, Problem 2.

By the same Method altogether, and the same way of Computation are described the Arches of the Signs, in Polar and Meridian Dyals; for in like manner as in the Polar Dyals the Aequi­noctal Line is described by the Basis of the Style, cutting at right Angles the Lines of all the Hours; So in this Line, and by the same way is described the Arch in which the Suns Declina­tions are mark't. From the Points, the Rule be­ing applyed at the same time to the Point to which the Line of the Hour III, is cut by the Aequi­noctial, the several Points are mark't in the Line [Page 155] which is subtended to the Style. Lastly, In like manner as in the Meridian Dyals, the Rule being applyed to those Points, and at the same time to the middle Hours distinguisht in the Aequinoctial Line, the Points are shewed in the Horary Lines, through which the several Arches of the Signs are to be drawn.

Hitherto of Regular Dyals; which however not to be drawn according to a right, or Vertical Sphere: for in the right Sphere, those which are 10 Horizontal differ not from our Polar Dyals of the oblique Sphere. Also in the right Sphere those which are Vertical differ not from our Aequi­noctials; but the Meridian Dyals in that Sphere are like to ours, except that in those the Ae­quinoctial Line is Perpendicular to the Horizon, But those which are with us Polar, are to them Horizontal. And those in the Vertical Sphere have the Aequinoctial for the Horizontal. 20

CHAP. XIII.
Of Irregular and Declinant Dy­als.30

THe nature and kinds of these Dyals, have been already declared in the beinning of this Treatise. There wants only the practice of finding the Declination, and also of framing a Declinant Dayl.

1. The Declination of the place may be easily found by the help of the Mariners Compass trea­ted of in the Art of Navigation. But in this particular the most Accurate way, is to apply the Semicircle divided in the Plane to a fitting 40 Number of Degrees, the Gnomon being placed at its Center. For in that Meridian Hour you will see what Degrees the Shadow Cuts, and which way it is cast, the better to determin of the Species, and quantity of its Declinations. These things thus premi­sed, you may without any other Art draw a Dyal in any place, fixing therein at right Angles any right Style of whatsoever Magni­tude.

2. Wherever the Meridian Hour is mark't,50 the extremity of the Shadow projected by it with a Prick, then at that Prick, by the be­nefit of a Plum-Line, if it be in a Vertical Plane draw a Perpendicular, This will be the Meridian Line. Then Thirdly, At any convenient time either before, or Afternoon, having by inquiry learnt out the certain Hour of the Day, from any true made Dyal, mark with a Prick, the extremi­ty of the Shadow then projected; and this do till you have prick't out all the Hours that may be set 60 down in the given Plane.

Then intermitting for some Days, or Weeks, as shall be thought fitting, take a review of some of those Hours, and you will find the ex­tremity of the Shadow some space distant from the Prick of the same Hour, mark't some Days, or Weeks before. Through those two Pricks draw a right Line without any certain Bound; this will Cut the Meridian Line drawn at the begin­ing; and the Section so made is to be the Center of the Dyal, from whence the other Hour-Lines are to be drawn through other Pricks for the finish­ing of the Dyal.

By the same Method, once in a Year, or half a Year, as the Sun is just entring into a new Sign, observe each Hour the extream point of the Sha­dow cast by the Style, so as by those points to draw the Arches of the Signs.

CHAP. XIV.
The common way to Draw a De­clinant Dyal.

FOr this we use the Aequinoctial Quadrant, already mentioned in the last Scheme of the Fourth Chapter. But the first thing in this Operation to be taken notice of, is whether the Declination be from the North, or South; or to the East, or West. Next, How great, that is, how many Degrees the Declination is. For Ex­ample, In our Scheme, or Figure, the Declination is from South to East; which way of Declination requires this following Praxis.

1. Describe the Horizontal Line a, b.

2. Draw the obscure Perpendicular c, d.

3. Fix at right Angles the Style, in the Inter­section of those two Lines, at the Point e.

4. Mark the Longitude of the Style, in the Line c, d, at the Point f.

5. Dispose the Instrument to the Line c, d, its Center being applyed to the Point f, but to be turn'd to the Declining part, that is, to the East; if the Declination be Eastwards; but on the con­trary Westward, if the Declination be Westward.

6. Number the Degrees of Declination from the Point g, For Example, to the Point h. Then from the Center of the Instrument in which the extre­mity of the Style is designed, draw a Line from the Point h, to the Horizontal Line in j.

7. Through the Point j, draw the Perpendicu­lar l, m, which is to be the Meridian Line.

8. To find out the Center of the Dyal, the Longitude of the Line f, j, is to be mark'd in the Horizontal Line from the Point j, towards either part; For Example; Towards the part n, at the Prick n, in which Point the Center of the In­strument is placed, the side thereof lying upon the Horizontal Line. Then from the Horizontal Line beginning at the Point o, number the De­grees of the Poles Elevation; which, for Exam­ple may cut the Degree p, then without limit draw the occult Line n, p, l, which in the Section of the Meridian Line is to mark the Point l, for the Center of the Hours.

9. From the Center of the Hours l, draw the occult Line l, q, through the place of the Style e.

10. Upon this Line l, q, at the Intersection in [Page 156] the Pointe, raise the perpendicular r, e, according to the length of the Style.

11. From the Center l, to the point r, draw the occult Line l, r.

12. In the point r, of the Line l, r, raise a per­pendicular to cut l, q, in the point f.

13. In the Point f, erect a Perpendicular; or draw at right Angles through the point s, the right Line t, u, and this is to be the Aequinoctial Line in which the Horary points are to be mark't.10

14. Measure the Longitude of the Line r, s, from the point s, to the point x, in the Line l, q; then from the point x, draw a right Line at the Intersection of the Meridian and Aequinoctial Lines in the point y.

15. In the point x, place the Center of the In­strument, the side thereof lying upon the Lon­gitude of the side x, y.

16. From the Center of the Instrument draw 20 occult Lines, through 15 Degrees, which cutting the Aequinoctial Line, will mark therein the points of the Hours XII, XI, X, IX, VIII, VII, VI.

17. If the Plane be such as to be capable of containing more Hours, whether Morning or E­vening, regard being had of the Declination, the site of the Instrument will be to be changed. Wherefore to gain the Hours before VI, change the Instrument, so that the Center may be dis­posed to the said point x, and the Style to the 30 occult Line which marks the point of the 6th Hour. Then through 15 Degrees, mark in the Aequinoctial Line, what other Horary Points you please. For Example, the points of the Hours V, and VI.

18. To gain the other Afternoon-Hours, the Position which the Instrument hath in the Figure, or Scheme, is so to be inverted, that it be beneath the Line x, y, the same side being applyed along that Line x, y. In a word, the Instrument is on­ly 40 so to be turned about the Line x, y, as to be beneath it, which done, first draw an occult Line, cutting the Aequinoctial from the first Hour, and so in the like manner for the rest, still ob­serving the space of 15 Degrees.

19. And at last all the occult Lines being ex­punged, the Hour-Lines are to be drawn from the Center of the Dyal through the assigned Horary Points. 50

CHAP. XV.
To find out the Hours of the Night, by the Rays of the Moon.60

1. T'is to be supposed an Horizontal Sun-Dyal at hand, is either fixt or moveable; such as is usually carried about.

2. We suppose, joyn to the other a Moon-Dyal as they call it, framed of two Concentrick Cir­les, in the one of which are set down the Days of the the Moons age, by a Globule applyed to the number 30. In the other the 12 Hours here and there set down.

3. Suppose the age of the Moon known, either by the Epact, or some other way. These things thus laid down, proceed as followeth by the be­nefit of a Sun-Dyal applyed to the Lunar Beams in the same manner as used to be applied to those of the Sun. See what Hour the Moons Shadow points; As for Example, the 8th. Then place the Globule to that Hour set down in the Horary Circle. And Lastly have recourse to the age of the Moon, and that will give the Hour sought. For Example, If it be the 12th Day of the Moons age, it will declare the Hour to be about 5 ½. But if, as it often happens, a Lunar-Dyal be pro­duc't, made up of 3 Concentrick Circles, whereof the last and biggest is that of the Lunary Days; the second and next to it is the Horary Circle; the inner­most contains the Index. Apply that Index to the Day of the Moon; Then in the Circle of the Index seek the number of the Hour mark'd by the Lunary Shadow in the Sun-Dyal u, g, 8, the said Number will declare in the Horary Circle the Hour sought.

CHAP. XVI.
Vpon a Lunar Dyal, to find the Pe­riodick Motions of the Sea.

IF you would know at what Hour it will be high Tide, or as they call it, Full Sea in any given place, For Example sake, at Rochel.

First, It must be known at what Hour it hap­pens in that place at the time of full Moon, and this may easily be known both by observation and enquiry. This done, place the Globule fixt to the moveable Wheel of the Lunary Days at that Hour in which these Tides happen in that place at the full of the Moon. For Example, at the Hour X. Then seek the age of the Moon for the given day; As suppose the 9th of the Moon. Lastly, observe to what Hour the said number 9, being the age of the Moon, is opposite, and that is the Hour sought.

[Page]

To the Worshipfull Iohn Speccott of Penhele in the County of Cornwall Esqr.

This Plate is hum­bly dedicated by R. Blome.

ARCHITECTVRE.

ARCHITECTURE is the Art of well Building.

Buildings are either Sacred, or Prophane. Sacred Buildings are either Publick, or Private; the Publick are Churches, Chappels, Cloisters, Hospitals and the like. The Private are Hermitages, Sepulchers, &c.

Prophane Buildings are also Publick or Private; the Publick are either for Defence, or Convenien­ces; Those for Defence are Citadels, Forts, Re­doubts,10 Walls, Ditches and the like, which more properly belongs to Fortification, and will be there treated of; Those for Convenience are Piaz­zos, Portico's, Streets, Walks, Bridges, Posts, Sluces, Aquaeducts, Wells, Fountains, Cisterns, Market-places, Courts of Judicature, Halls of Publick Societies, Colleges, Arsinals, Magazins, Prisons, Ports, &c.

Private or particular Buildings are the Habita­tions, as well of the Nobles and Gentry, as of the 20 Pesant.

In all Buildings, Beauty, Convenience, Health­fulness and Duration is to be considered.

The Healthfulness of a place, is chiefly known by the Goodness of the Water, the wholsome Constitution and long living of the Inhabitans, and its Remoteness from Fens, and Boggy places.

A Habitation should not look towards the East, if it be near great Marshes, Ponds, Rivers, Woods, &c. by reason of the Mists and Vapours 30 drawn up by the Morning Sun; but if it borders upon dry places, as Hills, Pasture-Groun [...]s, or the like Champain Places, an Easterly Situation may be well enough. A Southern Prospect in many places is dangerous, but most tolerable in Winter; But the North is always good, as yiel­ding a Fraisheur and Coolness against the Heats of Summer: Such a Situation is proper for Gra­naries, Caves, Grotto's, Libraries, and such like places. A South West View is proper for Chambers; 40 however to render the Building indifferent good, it ought to Front the North-West; but the most compleat of all Situations is when each of the 4 Angles of the Building answer to each of the 4 Cardinals Points, and when the Face of the Building is terminated on the one side, and hath an open Prospect on the other.

For the Building of Countrey Houses, a place is to be chosen near Towns, Woods, Waters, and High Roads. 50

The Apartments of the Building ought to be disengag'd, and of a free Access. They are these following, the Anti-Hall, and Hall, Parlours, Chappels, Dining-Rooms, Withdrawing-Rooms, Bedchambers, with Alcou, or without, Dressing-Rooms, Closets, Closetool-Rooms, places for Wood and others Conveniences, Anti-Chambers, Chambers, Wardrobes, Nurseries, Galleries, Libraries, Armories, Kitchins, Scullery, Bake-House, Pastery, Larders wet and dry, Cellers, Panteries or Butteries, Wash-Houses, Landeries, Brew-Houses, Daries, Granaries, Stables, Coach-Houses, Dog-Kennels, Volaries, Cow-Houses, Hogs-Coats, Hen-Houses, Wood-Houses, Dove-Houses, &c. Also Tarrass Walks, Wells, Fountains, Canals, Grotto's, Ar­bours, Avenues, Tards, places for managing the Great Horse, Fish-Ponds, Parks, Warrens, Or­chards, Gardens, &c.

The principal parts of the Building are the great Outward-Wall, the several Partition Walls, the Entry, the Jambs, Doors and Windows, the Passa­ges or Avenues from Room to Room, the Roofs as well Vaulted, or Arched, as otherwise, the Floors, Stair-cases, and the Covering of the House.

The weight of the Building ought to be placed upon the Parts capable to sustain them; so the Beams, or Summers which sustain the Planks, ought never to be put upon an empty space, as over Windows, and Doors.

Void always ought to be upon Void, and So­lid upon Solid.

The Beams should never be placed upon the Chimneys, by reason of Fire; nor no other Tim­ber whatsoever.

The length of the Beams, and of the Joists ought to be proportionable to their thickness, and the distance of the Beams not to exceed 10, 11, or 12 Foot.

The Beams ought to bear into the Wall about 12 Inches, where the thickness of the Wall will bear it, and admit no more.

The Joists ought to take up the full, as well as the empty spaces.

The Apartments of the same Story are to be placed in an even plain.

The parts which are remote from the middle, ought all to have an equal distance.

The upper Stories ought always to be less in heighth than the lower.

The Columns.

There are 5 Orders of Columns; according to the Antients, viz. the Tuscan, Dorick, Ionick, Corinthian, and Composite.

From these Orders of Columns all sorts of Build­ings take their Names; so that if the Architect changes his Measures in any of these Ornaments, it is called The new Fabrick.

The squared Columns that are implanted in the Wall are called Pilasters.

There are a sort of Columns called French, which a [...] composed of several pieces put together, [Page 158] and this Invention arose from the difficulty of finding Materials of one piece big enough for the purpose.

There are also wreathed Columns, otherwise called Salomonick.

Sometimes Columns are Canell'd, or Fluted, and these Flutes for the most part reach but to two Thirds of the Column; the other part below be­ing set out with Flowers, Vine-Branches, and o­ther sorts of Foliage. 10

Columns are divided into the Trunk, Basis, and Capiter, the Ornaments whereof are different ac­cording to the diversity of the Orders.

The Pedestal, upon which the Column common­ly stands, is divided into the upper Cimatium, the Cimatium below, and the space between, which is indeed most properly called the Pe­destal.

On the Top of the Column is the Capital, up­on which is the Entablature, which is divided 20 into Architrave, Friese, and Cornice.

The Semidiameter of the Column below is cal­led the Model, and gives measure to all the parts, and Ornaments.

The Model is divided into 12 equal parts in the Tuscan▪ and Dorick Orders, and into 18 in the other three Orders.

The Pedestal is always a third part of the Column, and the Capital a fourth.

The Wreaths on the Top ought ever to be 30 placed upon the Solid part of the Column, and not in the Out-settings.

The TVSCAN ORDER.

THis Order according to Vitruvius (Lib. 4. Cap. 7.) having its heighth sevenfold to its thickness, it follows that its height must be 14 Models, the Base 1, the Capital 1, and the Trunk, or Body 14.40

The Ornaments of the Base, are

 Parts.Projecting.
The Plinth should be in Solid Bigness64 ½
The Torus54 ½
The Cincture of the Basis11 ½

The Ornaments of the Capital, are 50

The List of the Abacus15
The Abacus34
The Ovum, or Ovolo, or Quarter round33 ½
The List under the Ovum11
The Friese of the Capital40

Beneath the Capital is the Roundel, or Astra­gal, and the Collar, which makes part of the Trunk of the Column, not of the Capital.

The Astragal, or Roundel12 60
The Collar of the Column½1

The Trunk of the Column is of the height of one Model, and 7 parts over, in like manner as the Friese of the Capital, which for that reason hath nothing of projecture.

Although the Tuscan Order seldom hath a Pedestal, yet it is made here for Example sake, as in the Figure marked B. And in all the 5 Orders take this for a general Rule, That the Pedestal with its Ornaments must be one third part of the Column, with its Basis and Capital; likewise the Ornaments above, viz. the Architrave, Friese, and Cornice must make one fourth part of the same. And if you are to make any of the 5 Orders, you must divide the height of the Co­lumn with its Ornaments into 19 parts; then take the height of the Column with its Basis, and Capital, and make the divisions of the Models according to its Order, as the Dorick, Ionick, &c. Then frame the Fabrick with this Model, divi­ding its parts, as may be seen in the said Figure marked B, where A, doth represent the Body of the Column; B, the nether Band or Swathe; E, the List; F, the Gula, or Throat reversed in the Pe­destal; G, the Body of the Column, and so forth.

The Figure A, shews the Capital, Architrave, Friese, and Cornish of the said Tuscan Order; And the Figure B, tho Base, and Pedestal there­of.

The Names of the several Parts, or Members of the Column, according to the Figure marked A.

THat marked A, is called the Ovum, or Ovolo. B, the Tondino, or round. C, the List or Rule. D, the Crown. E, the List. F, the Gula or Throat reverst. G, the Friese. H, the List of the Archi­trave. J, the Architrave. K, the List of the A­bacus. L, the Abacus, or Cimatium. M, the Ovum, or Ovolo. N, the List. O, the Friese of the Capital. P, the Neck of the Column. Q, the hanging o­ver the Capital. And R, the Body of the Co­lumn.

The Cornish which consists of a Model, and 4 of its parts, hath these parts following, with their Projectures.

 Parts.Projecting.
The Ovum, or 4th part of the Round418
The Round114
The List, or Reiglet½13 ½
The Corona, or Gutter613
The List beneath½4 ½
The Doucine, or Cimatium reverst44
The Friese is not subdivided, it is of144
The Architrave is divided into the List, and Architrave.  
The List of the Architrave22
The Architrave100

The Architrave, and the Friese are to bear up­on the Friese of the Capital.

If over and above the Entablement, the Column be allowed a Pedestal, it must be divided into 19 Parts, whereof the Column is to have 12, the En­tablement 3, and the Pedestal 4, so that the whole heighth is to be 22 Models and ⅙.

The Ornaments of the Pedestal are the upper Cimatium, and the lower Cimatium, and both are to be of 6 parts.

The upper Cimatium hath 2 parts.

The List24
The reverst Cimatium, or Doucine43 ⅓
The begining of the shall have of Projecture0½
The lower Cimatium20

[Page]

To the Right Worshipfull Sr. Thomas Fitch of Eltham, and Mount-Mascall in Ken t, Knight & Baronet▪ Sr. yo. great Knowledge in the Art of Architecture renders you the Fittes [...] Person to be Selected in this Concern, whose name and Countenance will much add to the Reputation thereof, to whose Patronage, this Treatise with the Sculp­tures of the Severall Orders, is humbly Dedicated, by Richard Blome.

[Page] [Page]

To the Right Worshipfull Sr. Thomas Fitch of Eltham and Mount Mascall in Kent Knight and Baronet, Descended from the Antient Family of the Fitches of Fitches Castle into the North. These Plates of the five Orders is humbly dedicated by Richard Blome.

[Page] [Page 159]

The List, or Reigle [...]12
The Plinth of the Pedestal54

Observe that for the finding the Model of the Column the heighth being given, whatever division be otherwise made, the heighth of the Column must be divided only into 14 equal parts, one whereof is to be the Model required.

The Intercolumnium from Trunk to Trunk, is to be of 4 Models and ¾; but if there be Por­tico's 10 without a Pedestal, then the Pilaster is to be of 3 Models, the Impost of 1, and the Pro­jecture of 1 fourth of a Model; The distance of the Arch to the Architrave of 1 Model; The Foot of the Arch of 3 Models. The Door must be 13 Models high, and 6 ½ wide, and the di­stance from the Impost to the Architrave must be 4 ¼ Models; but if there be Portico's with the Pedestals, then the Pilasters are to be of 4 Mod­els, the heighth of the Door of 17 Models, and 20 the wideness of 8 ¾ Models.

Of the DORICK ORDER.

THe Dorick Column is Octuple, or Eight-fold in its thickness, so that its heighth must be of 16 Models.

The Figure marked C, represents the Dorick Order whose parts are thus marked: A, The Grove or hollowing of the upper List. B, the 30 Dentils or Teeth. C, The Capital of the Triglyph. D, the Triglyph in which those parts that are framed inwards are called Flutes, or Hollows, and the Square place of the Friese between the Triglyphs is called a Metops. E, the Props, or little Bells. F, the Cimatium. And G, the Annu­lets, Bands or Lists. This Figure represents the Base and Pedestal of the said Order.

They give one Model to the Base, and one to the Capitals, and by consequence the Shaft of the 40 Column is to be 14 Models, The Column must be of 1 ⅔ Model in heighth. The parts of the Base are as followeth.

 Parts.Projecting.
The Plinth65
The Torus45
The Roundel, or Baston12 ¾
The Cincture of the Base12

The Parts of the Capital.50

One Cimatium, one List½5 ½
which hath one Doucine15
The Abacus2 ½4
The Ovum2 ½3 ½
Three Rings, Cinctures, or Astragals, each ½1 ½1 ½
The Frise of the Capital40

In the place of Rings, are 60

One Baston12
One List½½

The Astragal, and the Collar, are of the same Measure, as in the Tuscan Order.

The Entablement is to be of 4 Models; for the Cornish 1 ½, for the Frise 1 ½, and for the Archi­trave 1.

The Parts of the Cornish, are

The List124
The half Doucine, or streight Geul,323 ½
One small List½20 ½
The Doucine, or Climatium Reverst,1 ½20
The Corona418 ½
The small List½6
The Dentelets32
A small List½½
The Doucine, or Cimatium Reverst,22
A List21
The Frise is of 1 ½ Model180

The Friese is adorn'd with Trigliphs, and Metophes: The Trigliphs are 1 Model in bigness, and the Metophes 1 ½. The Trigliphs have 2 Triangular Canals in the middle, and half a Canal upon each Angle; every one of the Canals hath 2 parts of Front, and the Entredeux of the Canals is also of 2 parts; the last List of the Cornish serves then for Capitals, and there wants 2 parts or thereabouts of their attaining this same List. For the Metophes they are Square, and are the Space betwixt the Trigliphs, whose Orna­ments are commonly consisting of two Sheeps-Heads, with Cornucopia's, or Bucquets of Flowers hanging upon the Horns, and a Garland or sever­al Rings one within another, also Coats of Arms, Escocheons, &c.

The Parts of the Architrave, are,

One List,22
The Architrave (properly so called)100

In the Architrave there are under-Trigliphs after the List of Gutters or Clochets, which de­pend upon another List; but if besides the En­tablement you would also have a Pedestal added to the Dorick Column, it must be divided into 25 ⅓ parts, whereof 16 will be for the Column, 4 for the Entablement, and 5 ⅓ for the Pedestal; and the whole heighth is to be 25 ⅓ Models,

The upper Cimatium of the Pedestal, hath these Parts follwing,

The List½6
The Ovum15 ½
Another List½4 ½
The Corona2 ½4
The Doucine1 ½1 ½
The Pedestal (properly so called) hath 4 Models480

The Parts of the lower Cimatium of the Pedestal, are

The Cincture½1
The Baston11 ½
The Doucine23 ½
The Plinth2 ½4
Another Plinth44 ½

The Intercolumn [...]um from Trunk to Trunk, is to be of 5 ½ Models; but if there are Portico's, and the Columns be without their Pedestals, the [Page 160] Pilaster is to be of 3 Models, and the Impost of one.

The Parts are to be these following.

The List14
The Ovum2 ½3 ½
The Baston12
Another List½1 ½
A Fash Fascia41
Another Fascia3½

10

The Arch is to be composed of Bastons or Tayaux of the same bigness and projecture as the Parts of the Impost; the Door is to be 14 Models high, and 7 wide below the Arch. There are to be two Lists to answer the Astragal, and the Collar of the Column, and are to be of the same wideness and projecture; But if there are Portico's, and the Columns have their Pedestals, 20 the Pilaster is to be of 5 Models, the Impost, and the Arch with their parts according as is already set down, and the Door is to be 20 Models high, and 10 wide.

Of the IONICK ORDER.

THis Order as it is Nine fold in thickness, so its heighth is to be of 18 Models: 1 Model is given to the Base, and ⅔ of a Model to the 30 Capital, and so the Shaft of the Column will be of 16 Models and ⅓, the Column it self is to be of 1 Model, and ⅔ in heighth.

Observe, that in the Tuscan and Dorick Orders, the Model is divided only into 12 equal parts; whereas in the Ionick, Corinthian, and Composite Orders, it is divided into 18 equal parts, because the ornaments of the three last are smaller, and more curious than those of the two first.

The Figure marked D, represents the Ionick 40 Order, whose parts are thus marked. A, the Scotia, or upper hollowing. B, the Astragaloes, or Rounds. C, the Scotia, or nethermost hollowing. Also the Figures marked E, F, and G, are parts of the Ionick Order, the later of which is the Voluta, or Scroll.

The Figure D, shews the Base and Pedestal of the said Order. E, the Capital, Architrave, Friese, and Cornish. F, the Base and Pedestal; and G, the manner of designing the Voluta of 50 the Capital.

The Ornaments of the Base, are these

The Plinth617
A List¼6 ¼6 ¼
The Scotia, Gutter, or Cavity244
A List¼4 ½4 ½
A Baston, or Torus155
Another Baston155
A List¼4 ½4 ½
Another Scotia22 ½2 ½
A List¼3 ½3 ½
A great Baston, or Torus555
Above there is a Face which belongs to the Shaft of the Column, and not to the Base,1 ½22

60

The Base I have already described, is peculiar to that Order; but the following Base is com­mon to these three Orders, viz. the Ionick, Co­rinthian, and Composite; and this Base is com­monly called the Attick Base.

The Ornaments of the Attick Base, are these,

The Plinth67
A Baston, or Torus4 ½7
A List½4 ½
A Scotia31
A List½2 ½
Another Baston, or Torus3 ½4 ¼
And above there is a Face named also the Cincture of the Base, which belongs to the Shaft of the Column, not to the Base,1 ½2

The Ornament of the Capital, are

A List15
A Doucine24 ½
Another List12 ½
An Abacus31 ½
A 4th part of a Round, or Ovum57

And beneath there is a Baston, or Torus, and a List which belongs to the Shaft of the Pillar, and not to the Capital.

A Baston, or Torus23
A List11

Then to make a Voluta; a Line is to be drawn level from beneath the Doucine, and to be prolonged as far as the Line, which makes the upper Abord of the Baston, the Point of Inter­section of these 2 Lines will be the Center of the Eye of the Voluta; then from the Center trace every one of the 4 Lines of one part of the Model, and drawing through their extremi­ties other Lines, you will make a Square cut the sides into two equal parts; draw 2 Lines through the opposite Divisions which will pass from the Center; divide each one into 6 equal parts, and you will have the 12 Points mark't 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, which will serve for Centers to 12 fourths of Circles that compose the Voluta, which consequently will have 3 intire Revolu­tions, and will end in a Point, as it began at the lower side of the Doucine; but from the upper side of the Abacus there is to be begun another Voluta, which will end at the first, and whose 12 parts of the Circle will have the same Centers as the first, and the Eye of the Voluta is the Circle described from the Intersection of the 2 first Lines, as Center of the overture of one part of the Model.

Observe, That the Abbacus having left off Projection, then its upper List will make the Creux of the Voluta, and the same List which is comprized of the 2 Lines of the Voluta will be the part Projecting.

The Entablement will be of 4 Models and 1/ [...] that is to say, 1 Model ¼ for the Cornish, 1 Model ½ for the Friese, and 1 Model ¼ for the Architrave.

The Parts of the Cornish, are

One List1 ½31
One Streight Gueul, of Demi-Doucine,5 perEmb. 26
Another List½26
One Gueul Reverst, or Doucine,225 1/ [...]
One Gutter, or Corona,623 ½
One Ovum413 ½
One Baston, or Torus110
One List1/ [...]9 ½
Dentelets, or Modillons,69
One List15

10

1 Doucine, or Gueul Reverst, 4 per Haut 4 ½ per Base ½.

The Friese hath 1 Model ½; it hath no Orna­ments of Architrave, but of Sculpture only.

The Parts of the Architrave, are 20

One List1 ½5
One Doucine, or Gueul Reverst,3 PerEmbas 1 ½
The first Fascia7 ½1
The second Fascia6½
The third Fascia4 ½0

The Pedestal is to be of 4 Models, viz. ½ a Model to every Cimatium, and 5 Models to the Entredeux.

The Parts of the Vpper Cimatium, are 30

A List10
A Doucine1 ⅓ perlabas 8 ½
A Gutter38
An Ovum35
A Baston, or Torus12

And below is a List which belongs to the Entre­deux, and not to the upper Cimatium.

A List11

40

The Parts of the Lower Cimatium, are

A Plinth48
A List7
A Doucine30
A Baston1 ⅓2

And a List above, which belongs to the Entre­deux, and not to the lower Cimatium.

A List11

50

The Intercolumnium from Trunk to Trunk, will be of 4 ½ Models: But if there be any Portico's, the Columns being without Pedestals, the Pilaster will be of 3 Models, and the Impost of 1, and it will have these Parts following.

A List16
A Doucine1 ½5 ¼
A Band to the Corona34
An Ovum33 ¼
A Baston12 ½
Another List½1 ½
A Fascia4½

60

The Door is to be 17 Models in heighth, and 8 ½ wide. The Arch is to be composed of Orna­ments of the same Wideness and Projecture as those of the Impost. And if when there are Por­tico's, the Columns have also their Pedestals. The Pilaster will be of 4 Models; the Door will be of 22 High, and 12 Wide; the Impost and the Arch will be as already determined, and the Impost from one high will be 1 Model wide, and 2 Models long, and will have for Cornish 1 List, and 1 Dou­cine of the Capital, as the List and the Doucine of the Capital; but the Projecture of this Impost from one high will be ½ a Model, as that of the Impost.

Of the CORINTHIAN ORDER.

THe Corinthian Column is Tenfold in thick­ness, and therefore its height is to be of 20 Models, whereof one is allowed to its Base, 2 ⅓ to its Capital; and so the Shaft of the Column will be of 16 Models. The Column it self will be of 30 Parts in heighth, that is to say, of 1 ⅔ Model.

The Figures marked H, I, K, L, and M, re­present the Corinthian Order. In that marked K, the Letter A shews the upper Torus, or Swathe; and B, the Nether Torus, or Swathe. In that marked L, the Letters A, B, together, are called the Abacus of the Capital; but for distin­ction A is taken for the Cimatium of the Abacus; the Stalks C; D, the lesser Leaves; E, the mid­dle Leaves; F, the under Leaves; and G, the Flowers. The Figure H, shews the manner of designing the Capital. That of I, the Capital, Architrave, Friese, and Cornish. That of K, the Base, and Pedestal. That of L, an Example of the Pillars. And that of M, of Pilasters.

The Parts of the Base, are

A Plinth67
A Torus47
A List¼4
A Scotia1 ½ 
A List¼2 ½
A Baston, or little Round½3
Another Baston½3
A List¼2 ¼
A Scotia1 ½ 
A List¼1 ½
A Torus32 ½

And above is the Cincture of the Base, which belongs to the Shaft of the Column; and not to the Base.

The Face, or Cincture of the Base1 ½1

The Base is described in the Ionick Order, which is the same as this; but instead thereof is used an Attick Base, which is common there­unto, with the Ionick and Composite Orders.

The Capital hath its Cimatium of a square Form, whose Diagonals have 4 Models, upon the side of that Square is described an Equilatera Triangle; from the Point of which, as Center to the Overture of the Side, if you intend an Arch▪ there you determine the Compass of the Cimati­um; and in the middle of that Compass may be put a small Projecting, which may be made into [...] Flower. Its Diameter will be 6 Parts, and it [...] [Page 162] Projecture also 6 Parts, which will be determined by the side of the Square.

The Parts of the Cimatium of the Capital, are

An Ovum2
A List1
An Abacus3

The Extremeties of the Abacus may be Re­trench'd,10 as to consist only of four Parts.

The rest of the Capital hath the Figure of a Bell reverst, whose Side (which is under the Abacus) hath 2 Parts of largeness, and 4 of Pro­jecture, It is divided into three equal Parts, and each of them again into 12, for the Foliages which serve for ornament to the Column. These Foliages consist of Acanthus, or Olive-Branches, which are to hang down about 4 Parts; but their Projecture is to be determin'd by a Line 20 drawn from the extremity of the Cimatium to the Roundel, which are under the Capital. Some are of Opinion, that the Foliage may pass a little beyond this Line, and the Angles of the Cima­tium are carried by Rollers, which others call Tigats; besides two other Rollers, which are turned one towards the other so far, as to touch under the Flower, which is most commonly a Rose.

Under the Capital is a Roundel, and also a 30 List which belongs to the Shaft of the Pillar.

A Roundel13
A List11 ½

The Entablement is to be of 5 Models; that is, 2 Models for the Cornish, 1 ½ for the Friese, and 1 ½ for the Architrave.

The Parts of the Cornish, are 40

A List122
An Half Doucine, or Streight Gueul  5 from 33 to 38
A List½ 33
A Doucine1 ½ 32 ¼
A Corona5 31
A Doucine1 ½ 30 ¼
A Plinth, with the Modillons,6 13
A List½ 12 ½
An Ovum4 12 ½
A Roundel1 10
A List½ 9 ½
Dentelets, or Denticles,6 9
A List½ 5
An Ovum3 5

50

Below there is a Roundel, and also a List, which are a part of the Friese, not of the Cor­nish.

The Friese hath one Model and an half; its 60 Parts are,

A Roundel12
A List½½

The rest is the Friese, properly so called.

The Parts of the Architrave, are,

A List15
A Doucine4 from3 to 5
A Roundel13
A Fascia72 ½
A Doucine22 ½
A Fascia6½
A Roundel1½
A Fascia5 

The Pedestal being always the third Part of the Column is to be of 6 ⅔ Models; but some make it of 7 Models, to the end that the whole Order may be thereby the more firm; and be­cause the 2 Cimatiums being taken away, there remains 2 Squares for the Entredeux.

The Vpper Cimatium is to be of 14 Parts, and its Ornaments are,

A List2/38
A Doucine1 ⅓7 ¼
A Corona36
An Half Doucine13
A Roundel12
A List1½
A Friese3 
A Roundel12

Below there is a List, which belongs to the En­tredeux.

A List11

The Lower Cimatium is to be of 12 Parts; and its Parts are these,

A Plinth48
A Torus38
A List16
An Half Doucine3 from2 to 6
A Roundel12

And above a Cincture, which belongs to the En­tredeux.

A Cincture11

The Entredeux is to be of 5 Models, and 4 Parts, if the Pedestal be ⅓ of the Collar, ac­cording to the General Rule; but if it be al­lowed 7 Models, the Entredeux is to be of 5 Mo­dels, and 10 Parts.

The Intercolumnium from Trunk to Trunk, is to be of 4 ½ Models; but if there be Portico's, the Columns being without Pedestals, the Pilaster is to be of 3 Models, and the Impost of 1.

Its Parts are,

A List16
A Doucine2 from4 [...] to 5 ¼
A Corona44
An Ovum23 ½
A Roundel11 ½
A List½½
A Friese6 
A Roundel12
A List½1

[Page 163] The Arch must be composed of Ornaments of the Impost, of the same Accidents and Pro­jecture. The Door is to be 18 Models high, and 9 wide. And if when there are Portico's, the Columns have also their Pedestals, the Pilaster is to be of 4 Models, the Door is to be the heighth of 24 2/3 Models, if the Pedestal be Regular; but it is to be of 5 Models, if the Pilaster contain 7 Models; and its wideness must be one half of its height. The Impost and Arch will be as 10 hath been already determined; and the Impost on high is to be 1 Model large, and 2 Models long. It will have for Cornish an Ovum, a List, and an Abacus, as the Cimatium of the Capital, and its Projecture will be equal to that of the Lateral Impost.

The COMPOSITE ORDER.

THis Order, which is also called the Latin 20 Order, as invented by the Romans, is so named as participating of several Orders, the most Regular and Beautiful is that which is composed of the Ionick and Corinthian, and comprehends what there is of Elegance and Beauty in either of the two Orders; which also borrows very much of the two first.

The Figures marked N, O, P, Q, represent the several parts of this Composite Order, viz. N, the manner of designing the Capital. O, the 30 Capital, Architrave, Friese, and Cornish, P, the Base and Pedestal. And Q, an Example of the Capital, with Birds and Beasts.

This Order hath as great a Fame, as the Co­rinthian. Its principal Parts are composed of the same Ornaments, and divided in the same man­ner; and indeed there is no material difference to be found, except in its Capitals, and Pedestals, whereof I shall only speak of the Parts of this Order, which differs from those of the Corin­thian. 40

The Pedestal of this Order differs not from that of the Corinthian, except in some parts of the upper and lower Cimatium.

The Parts of the Vpper Cimatium, are

One List2/38
One Doucine1 ⅓7 ¾
A Corona36
An Half Doucine, or Direct Gueul,1 ½3
A List½1 ½
An Abacus1 perBas ½
A Friese5 
A Roundel12

50

Below there is yet another List, which belongs to the Entredeux.

A List11

The Parts of the Lower Cimatium, are 60

A Plinth48
A Torus38
A Doucine Reverst35 ½
A Baston12

And above a Cincture, which belongs to the Dee.

A Cincture11

There might be added an Attick Base, which is common to this, with the two preceding Orders. Or else there may be made a Base, compounded of the Attick and Ionick, which will be particular.

The Parts of the Composite Base, are

A Plinth67
A Torus47
A List¼4 ½
A Scotia22 ½
A List¼2 ¼
A Baston, or Roundel,½3 ¼
A List¼2 ¼
A Scotia1 ½2
A List¼2 ¼
A Torus33 ¼

And above there is a Cincture which belongs to the Trunk.

A Cincture1 ½2

The Capital is composed of the Parts of the Corinthian and Ionick: It hath a Cimatium like to the Corinthian; a little Space of two Parts, whence spring the Voluta's; and then an Ovum, a Baston, and a List, like to those that are in the lowermost part of the Ionick Capital. The Vo­luta is the same as the Ionick, having as much of the Front, as the Cornure of the Corinthian Abacus, that is to say, four Parts, or a little more. It springs from the Foot of the Flower, and its Eye is terminated by the Upper-side of the Ba­ston, or Roundel. The Capital from the Abacus is divided into three Parts; the uppermost is al­low'd to the Voluta, and the other Ornaments drawn from the Ionick Order, and the lowermost to the Foliages.

An Ovum2
A List1
An Abacus3
A little Space2
An Ovum5
A Baston2
A List1
The Space of the Upper Foliage,12
The Space of the Lower Foliage,12
A Roundel2
A List belonging to the Trunk,1

Amongst the Antiquities of Rome, there hath been found a very great number of Capitals, which not belonging to any of the four Orders are to be attributed to the Composite; because they have almost all the principal Measures of that which is composed of the Ionick, and [...]o­rinthian Orders, here described oftentimes in the place of Voluta's, Rollers; or Tigets. There are Eagles, Griffons, and other Animals; and in the place of a Flower there are Faces, and other things.

The Composite Entablement hath its principal Divisions, the same as the Corinthian.

The Cornish hath for its Parts.

A List1 ½36
An Half Doucine, or Streight Gueul,5 from 31 to 36  
A List131
A Doucine230 ¼
A Roundel, or Baston,129
A Corona528 10
An Ovum1 ½19 ½
A List118
A Doucine417 3/4
Dentelets, or Denticles,814
A List18
An Ovum57

The Parts of the Friese, are

A Roundel, or Baston,12
A List½½
The Friese, properly so called,25 ½ 

20

The Parts of the Architrave, are

A List17
An Abacus2 Below5
An Ovum35
A Roundel13
A Fascia102
A Doucine121 ¼
Another Fascia8 

30

I say nothing here of the Intercolumnium with­out Portico's, or with Portico's; of the Imposts, and of the Arch; because that the Measures and Divisions are the same in this Order, as in the Corinthian, from which it need not differ except in the Capital, and the Pedestal, though I have here set down some other differences.40

Of the Diminution and Enfleurs of Columns.

THe Diminution of Columns is made several ways; but it will be sufficient to give Examples of the two chief of them. For the first, Let the Column A, B, be divided from a third Part up­ward. Let the Semi-Circle E, D, C, 50 be made at the Point E, and from A, the Point of Diminution. Let the Line A, G, be let down perpen­dicularly; then let the Point E, G, be divided into as many equal Parts as you please: For Exam­ple, into six; and let E, A, be also divided into other equal Parts; and when the Perpendicu­lar and Horizontal Lines shall cut 60 each other, draw the Line E, H, I, K, which will give the Diminution desired, and the same way be made use of in the Tuscan, and Dorick Or­ders.

[figure]

This other way, though it be less com­mon, yet is easie to be concei­ved by the Lines. Then the Mea­sure of the Co­lumns being a­greed on, a Line is to be drawn ad Infinitum, beginning at C, and continuing through D. Afterwards bring bakc the Measure C, D, to the Point A, until it cut the Perpendicular at the Point B; and A, B, being continued to E, from thence there may be drawn as many Lines, as you please; which part­ing from the Perpendicular, will tend directly to the Circumference of the Column; upon which applying the Measure C, D, you will there have the Enfleur of the Column, as well above as be­neath: And this way may be applyed to the Io­nick, Corinthian, and Composite Orders.

[figure]

But if it be thought fit to make these Columns Wreathed, after the manner of those which are at St. Peters, at Rome, there must be a Plane, as is here mark'd, and that little Circle in the middle shews how it is to be Wreath'd; which being di­vided into 8 Parts, and 4 Lines being drawn pa­rallel to the Perpendicular, the whole Column is to be divided into 48 Parts; and this Spiral Line form'd through the Middle, which serves for a Center to the Column, upon which is to be set forth the bigness of the Column Strait Line by Line, as it is here represented. But it is to be observ'd, that the four Numbers, 1, 2, 3, 4, mark'd upon the Plane, are only to serve as far as the first half Story, in regard the beginning parts from the Center, must be continued from thence upward about the little Circle unto the last half Story above; where also the 4 first Points below are to be made use of.

Remarks.

THe Roundels, or Bastons, are designed by a Demy-Circle. The Ovum, or Quarter of a Round, by a Quarter of a Circle. The Gueul Re­verst, or Doucine, by the Sixth part of a Circle, described with the Equilateral Triangles, in such sort that the Crooking from below be inward, and the Crooking from above be outward. The Streight Gueul, or Demy-Doucine, is design'd at the Doucine it self, only with this difference, that the Bending from below is outward, and that from above inward. The Abacus is design'd by an Arch, described with an Equilateral Triangle, in the same manner as the Scotia's, and the Imbe­lishment of the Trunk of the Column towards its Cincture, or Collar.

[Page]

To the Worshipfull in Essex & of Childerly Iohn Cutts of Arksden in Cambridgshire Esq.

This Plate is humbly Dedicated by Richard Blome.

WAR.

The Introduction.

THE Art of War is so noble and necessary a study for all Gentlemen as well as Soul­diers, that would fit and prepare them­selves to be Instruments for the glory of their King, and safety of their Countrey, that without it they must be useless at home, and altogether Strangers to Battles and Transactions abroad.10 How was it possible for a handful of Greeks to Conquer most of Asia, and subdue that mighty Persian Empire, more likely to have given the Law to Europe, than to have received it from so small a part, and People of it; but by being exceedingly their Superiours in Military Arts and Discipline: Having for the Education of their Youth, their Tactici, or Publick Teachers: and their Gymnasias, or Publick Schools; by which means the Grecian Youth were so accustomed to 20 Military Exercises, that it was a Reproach and Ignominy to any that had not learn'd to handle their Arms; and (as some relate) they were so trained up in their Schools, that they were Fed and Lodged as if they had been actually on Duty in the Field; which doubtless was a Method worthy of praise and imitation; for thereby in an in­stant they were able not only to form an Army of Souldiery, expert in the use of their Arms; but also to have it consist of Men, accustomed 30 with the Dyet and Hardships of War.

The Romans (those great Examples of Mili­tary Worth) although they had not such Publick Teachers, or Schools to fit their Youth for Arms; yet we find they had their Field of Mars, whi­ther the Roman Youth resorted to the practice of Military and Warlike Exercises; and we read, they were so strict in the choise of their Soul­diers, that none could be admitted to, or attain the Dignity of one of the 24 Military Tribunes 40 (although he was most in favour) that had not served at least five years in the Wars; and none that had less favour could be a Tribune, before he had served in the Wars 11 Years amongst the Foot, or 15 amongst the Horse; whereby we see, none could be an Officer before he had been a Long time a Private Souldier, judging him unfit to Command, who had not first learn'd to Obey: And their great Care in this matter, we may learn from the prudent distribution of 50 their Tribunes in their Legions; that whereas the first Legion of a Consular Army had four Tribunes, which might have served in the Wars but five Years, yet it had two Tribunes which had served 11, or 15 Years, and so in course for the remaining three Legions; whereby they distributed as near as might be the most know­ing and experienced Tribunes in every Legion. Such was the Excellency, of the Roman Military Discipline! War was the Policy of their Common-Wealth, the Renown of their Families; the Glory and Employment of Private Men; It was a dishonour to their Great Men to be overcome; and for their Followers, not to go as far as they: Their Souldiers went Singing to the Battle; and such as owed their Safety to their Heels, were forc'd through meer Shame to rid themselves with a Halter of their hated Lives. Thus they were Endowed with such Noble Courage, for which they were celebrated above any other Nation.

But why do we dazle out Eyes with the Splendor of either the Grecian or Roman Arms, or be so unjust to our selves as to diminish or Lessen the glorious Actions of this Nation, that thereby we might only flatter Antiquity? The English has filled their Histories with passages as truly noble as those we read of with so much admiration in the Grecian and Roman Writers; and forein, as well as their own Histories do them the right to tell the World, how not only Towns, but Provinces, and Kingdoms have been the reward of their Victories, as their memorable Exploits, famous Victories, and large Conquests in France, Ireland, and Cyprus, &c. how they brought under Cicily, and carried the terror of their Arms into Asia; But withal they bid us observe, that such great and noble Actions were due to their great knowledge in Military Arts and Discipline, acquired by unwearied industry and pains, when their Youth were bred up in shame of Vice, and boldness to undergo peril for Vertues sake; For it is certain, as Plutarch speaks of the Lacedemonians, in his Life of the Theban General, Pelopidas, That it is neither Eurotas, nor the place betwixt Babyx and Gnacion (Rivers in and about the City Lacedemon, then famous for brave Souldiers) that bringeth forth Valiant and War-like Men: There is in most Men a kind of Fear that is born with them; few with Hercules in the Cradle dare encounter and strangle Serpents. It is true, in some few Youths we may discover a certain kind of greatness of Mind, that betimes by their forward and lively Spirits, and by some brave excursions of Mind, may give sure Signs of their innate Courage; yet we must do so much right to Discipline, as to acknowledg, that Valour rather Springs from that than from any Prerogative of Birth; and thus that Man [Page 166] that hath been afraid at the very name of War, when brought (as it were) to see and handle the Dangers thereof; and when he perceives, that Death is not certain in Battles, that but a few Fall when it is couragiously fought, and that his Fears have often deceived and fooled him, now dares be one in the hardest Service, and can meet the most threatning Dangers boldly and chearfully, obtaining that by Experience, which he never had by Nature. Where Courage is natural, Dis­cipline 10 must have the refining and ordering of it, before it be genuine and true. And it is certain, where Courage is not innate, Discipline, when applied, never fails to produce it. The Thebans (which till the Day they obtained the Victory against the Lacedemonians) had no Re­putation of Valour; yet by Exercise and Use of Arms, under their Experienced and Skilful Ge­nerals, Epaminondas and Pelopidas, are too hard for the Brave Spartans, who before were ac­counted 20 the most Valiant People of Greece.

It is not to be doubted, but that the Old Eng­lish Valour is still the same, although it were to be wished, that Young Gentlemen, and Persons of Quality, were more inclinable, in imitation of the Noble performances, and Illustrious exploits of their Ancestors; to acquaint themselves with Military Exercises and Manly Employments, that by their acquired Knowledge joyning with their Genius, they may be an Ornament to a worthy 30 Posterity, in being serviceable to their King and Countrey, like that brave and resolute Spartan, Isadas, in a Just and Honourable War, whenever they shall be called to the Field.

And can there be any greater Encouragement to set about the practice of this so Great and Noble a Study, than to be blest with a General to your Armies, and an Admiral to your Fleet, in the Person of a King; and of as Active a Temper, and Warlike Spirit, as either the Greeks Alexander, or the Roman Caesar, who has Cou­rage 40 to lead you as far as yours dare follow; and wise Conduct to raise the Glory of this Na­tion as high as you can wish; and who (without doubt) will take notice of such as endeavour to render themselves thus fit for His Service.

I do not design in this small Treatise, to speak of the handling of Arms, nor of the seve­ral Postures, and Motions, taught the Souldiers, nor of the divers ways of Exercising a Troop, or 50 Company; since there is in the English Language so many Printed Books on this Subject: And that which would make one the less curious in doing it, is, because (though there be a great many fine things taught in these particulars, which are graceful to the Sight, and makes Souldiers the more ready) yet when they come in earnest to Fight, few of them are practised but to keep their Ranks even and close, their Files right, to Fire nimbly, to Charge boldly,60 to be watchful of the Word of Command from their Officer, and to be exactly Obedient to it.

I shall only Discourse a little of the three Prin­cipal Heads in the Art of War, viz. Marching, Incamping, and Imbatteling an Army, which if rightly understood, with the following Trea­tise of Fortification; of Defending and Besiedg­ing a Town; the Ingenious Souldier will find them very useful Instructions to him in divers occasions.

Of Marching an Army.

BEfore the Army comes to their [...]endevouz, in order to March, the Gene [...] sends an Offi­cer with some Horse to the Neighbouring Vil­lages, to have a sufficient number of Guides of those most knowing of the Country, and Ways, he designs the Army shall March, and to bring them to his Quarters, which must be always near the Generals, and there kept, especially if Men not thorowly known, and to be trusted. To this Officer the General gives the Title of the Captain of the Guides. Having (upon the dili­gent comparing of their Informations) resolved on the way to March, after the Reveil is beaten, all the Wagoners and Men that attend the Bag­gage are to take up their Horse and Oxen, and make ready to load. The Vag-Masters (whose Duty is to Mend the Ways, and Conduct the Baggage) are to come to the Quarter-Master-Gene­ral of the Army, to receive his Orders. And being instructed in the Way the Army is to March, he is to provide himself Guides, and to Assemble toge­ther all the Baggage of the Army, whose Colours they must follow, and March according to the Rank of the Regiment they belong unto, and according to the place the Brigade is ordered to March in, whether in the Van, Body, or Rear.

After the Army is formed into as many large Squadrons and Battalions as the Ground or Field (where they are drawn up) will admit of, and according to their number regulated into the Van, the Body, and the Rear-Guard; all the Ordnance, Carriages, and Baggage being drawn up on one side, ready to fall into their places, as the Army Marches off; The General gives Orders for the Van to begin their March, which for the first day is always begun with his Regi­ment, and therefore is drawn up on the Right; and afterwards every Regiment is to take it by turns according to its Priority, being a General Officers, and Antiquity being a Colonels. Then he sends out Guides, and Light-Horsemen to dis­cover the Ways and Passages, yet so that they keep always in sight of the Van-Guard, that upon the discovery of an Enemy they may give notice thereof in time. With the Van he orders the Carpenters of the Train, and most of the Pioneers to march for the mending of such Bridges that need it, or shall be judged insuffici­ent to bear the weight of the Carriages, &c. and when there are bad Ways for the Horse, or Train, to mend them against the Army comes up.

The Ordnance and Ammunition do ordinarily march in the Center, or Body of the Foot, as adjudged the securest place from the Attempts of the Enemy; for if the Attack be in the Van, or Rear, or both, half the Army will be free from the Incumbrances of the Carriages, and will be ready to make Head where need re­quires; [Page 167] but sometimes, as Necessity requires, some small Field-Pieces March in the Head of an Army, especially when the Enemy is expected to Fall on.

'Tis impossible to give a certain, or standing Rule for the most advantageous, and safe way of Marching an Army, since the Form must vary according to the Country you march in, or the Enemy you have to do withal; although you are to observe, when ever the Ground will 10 allow of it, as in Marching over a Heath, or large Field, always to march in Battalia; and if the Army can't, yet at least that the Horse and Foot do march in as large Squa­drons, and Battalions as the Ground will admit of.

The Chief Officer that commands the Rear-Guard gives Order that some Troops of Light-Horse shall march within sight of the Rear, especially in passing over a Heath, Forest or the 20 like; but if the Countrey be Mountainous, or Hilly, then the Light-Horse may be commanded to march sometimes in the Van, and sometimes in the Rear of the Army, and to keep such Watches, and Centinels on the high places, that the Enemy may not discover the strength of the Army as it passes, or in what order it marches.

In passing through narrow Ways, the Van-Guard is generally strengthned with some Foot and some Ordnance drawn up before it, lest the 30 Enemy should surprise it, and then march up by Defiles, and draw up as the condition of the place will permit.

In passing through a great Wood, there ought to be placed good store of Horses upon the Ways that lead into it, and to round and guard it very well on both sides, to be secure from the Enemies Ambuscadoes, and if there be any plain, or open places in it, the Horse are to over-spread them, and to be drawn up to secure the Passage un­til 40 the Ordnance and Baggage are past, and the Rear brought up; And if after the passing the Wood the Army come into a plain Champain Country, some Horse are to guard the Way that comes out of the Wood, until they be drawn up again into large Squadrons and Battalions.

When an Army is to march through a Country where there are many Brooks and Rivers, Bridges are to be made, which is easily done, if there be good Ingeneers, Carpenters and store of Work­men. 50 The States of Holland provide their Army continually with some Boats, laden with Planks, Spars, Beams, Anchors, and Cables drawn upon Block-Wagons by 10, or 12 Couple of Horses, where coming to a River they presently take them down as many as they have occasion for, cast out their Anchors, joyning them together, laying the Planks, and Boards upon them, so in an instant a Bridge is made for their Army, Carriages, &c. to pass securely. Sometimes 60 Bridges are made with empty Barrels and Hogs-heads, laying Planks over them and fastned together. Now for the securing the Bridges whilst they are marching over, there should be some Pieces of Cannon drawn up, and planted by the River-side, to annoy the Enemy, if they should force their Passage over it; and when the Bridge is laid over, some Fire-Locks, Half-Pikes, and Horse should march over to make good the other side, until all the Army with the Canon and Baggage are come over. If the River be fordable, but rapid, and above Knee-deep, the strongest Horse by turns are to stand in Files in the River on the upper and lower sides of the Ford, that the Foot may pass the safer be­tween them, the upper Files breaking much of the rapidness of the Stream, and the lower saving such of them that by the violent Current might be cast down.

There are several other cases which must be provided against, as emergencies happen, by the Care, and prudence of the Chief Commander, for which no positive Rules can be set down, but the Orders must be given on the place, and pro­portionable to the Ground, the Enemy, and the Occasion.

Of Encamping an Army.

WHen an Army is to Encamp, and Quarter, especially not far from an Enemies Country (although but for a Night,) the General sends out to view and inform himself of the Nature and Condition of that place where they design to Encamp, which must be a place (if possible) in a plain Field, near Water; to which place the Army being come, and that in good time by Day, the Quarters may be made near unto the adjoyning Villages, if there be any; and the Horse Lodged about them in the most suspected places of Danger. To this end, the Quarter-Master-General is to go with the Camp-Mareschal that is upon Duty, to the appointed Camp; and being there come, he divides the Ground, distributing it to each Quarter-Master of the respective Regiments of Foot, and Troops of Horse; then he takes up a Quarter for the Ge­neral, in which he marks out the General Officers Quarters, and of all those that have right to be there. He also takes care for the Artillery, and for the Provisions, which must be near the Army, and covered by it.

When an Army comes to be Encamped near the Enemy, and that there is no River betwixt them, the General gives Orders to Intrench his Army, and the greatest part of the Troops must not go to Rest, each Regiment placing a Guard at the Head of their Camp; and the Camp Mareschal that is up­on Duty takes care to place the main Guard a­bout a Mile beyond the Army towards the Ene­my, choosing for that purpose a place from whence they may discourse all round about them, and there the Guards must stay until 'its Day; but when the Night approaches, they must draw near the Army, putting themselves at the Head of the Foot. The Collonel that is upon the Guard orders another Guard to be more advanced than where he is, of about 20 Horse, commanded by a Quarter-Master; this Guard must be advanced a Musket-Shot from the great or main Guard, in a place where they may see all about them. Besides this Guard there must be made a De­tachment of about 50 Horse commanded by a Captain to march all about, especially upon [Page 168] the ways that come to the Camp, that the Army may not be surprized.

It is not found that the Romans (who were the great Masters in Military Acts and Discipline) e­ver used a Line about, or Intrenched their Camps, until such time that they had vanquished Pyrrhus King of Epyrus, lying always before in open Fields; but finding that Princes Army Intrenched, they liked it so well, that afterwards they did not allow themselves to Encamp in Fields, although but 10 for a Night, but in Camps Intrenched; and it is almost incredible to read, in what little time they Intrenched their Camp, and how laborious the Form of it was. So excellent was their Military Discipline, their Souldiers being accustomed to it by constant practice, whence they soon found the great advantages that attended it, together with the many Dangers, and Inconveniences that before accompanied the neglect thereof; such En­trenchments kept them safe, and freed them from 20 dangers to which their Army was always expo­sed by quartering in the open Fields, and Villages, where if the Enemy was awake, he would sure every Night endanger the carrying or beating up some Quarter of it, whilst on the other hand, being lodged in a Body, and within an Intrenched Line, they were exempt from those Inconvenien­ces; and to assault an Army so Intrenched was held so daring and dangerous an Attempt, that we Read of few that undertook it, and fewer that 30 were successful in it. And it is certain that the Romans (as we find by reading their Histories) owed as much of their Conquests to their Encamping well, as to their other excellent Military Discipline and Valour; and it would be almosts endless to enume­rate what Kingdoms, and Provinces they kept in o­bedience by their standing Camps, having first wearied out their Enemy by such safe and bene­ficial delays, and then on some great advantages they would give them Battle, and so defeat them.40

The ordinary Dimensions of an Entrenched Camp: 8 Foot are for the breadth of the Ditch round the Camp, the depth 5 Foot, the exteri­our height of the Earth thrown up 5 Foot, and the interiour 6 Foot; although if need be, the Line may be raised higher, and thicker, and the Ditch deeper and broader. On this Line are to be made some sorts of Works, as Redoubts, Bastions, Tenails, &c. which are to flank and defend the Line, and are to be about the distance of 720 Foot 50 the one from the other, which is the Point-blank that a Musket doth execution. The raising the Line and Works upon it are to be distributed equally amongst the Regiments of Foot that are not on the Guard, every Rgiment taking according to its number of Men, his equal proportion, and every division of the Regiment relieving the other by turns until the Work is finished. Every 100 Souldiers are to have a Commissioned Officer, a Sergeant and a Corporal to supervise them, that 60 they lose no time. If there be any Moorish Grounds, they may be set with Turn-Pikes and Palisadoes, which may be taken up when the Army Decamps.

The manner of Encamping of Horse and Foot is thus; For a Battalion consisting of 12 Compa­nies, and 50 Men in each Company, there is to be allowed 100 Paces. For a Squadron consisting of 3 Troops, and 50 Men in each Troop, 50 Paces.

From the Head of the first Line to the Head of the second (if there be more than one Line) there is commonly allowed 300 Paces, whereof 120 are for Encamping the first Line, so that there re­mains 180 Paces, for the distance between the last Tents of the first Line, and the Head of the second, the 100 Paces being allowed for the second Line to draw up in; and there must be as much allowed for the Front of the first Line to the said purpose. It must be endeavoured as much as may be, that the second Line be e­qual to the first, keeping the same distance upon the Right and Left. All the Troops, and Companies of Horse and Foot, consisting but of 50 Men a­piece, are to be encamped in one Row of Tents and Huts; but when the Troops and Companies consist of more Men, there must be 2, or 3. The Horse are to be Encamped on the two Wings, and the Foot in the Center. The Generals Regi­ment is to have the Right, and the Colonels Com­pany the Right of the Regiment

The particular Dimensions of the Ground al­lotted to the Adjutant, or Quarter-Master for the Encamping a Battalion consisting of 12 Com­panies, and each Company being Encamped in one File, is commonly 100 Paces, allowing 3 Foot for a Pace, which he is thus to divide.

The Streets are each to be of 6 Paces, which is in all 72 Paces; the breadth of each Tent 2 Paces, and ⅓ of a Pace, or 7 Foot; the Depth is according to the number of the Tents, and 4 or 5 Men to a Hut, each Tent taking 2 Paces, the distance betwixt each being usually 2 ½ Foot; The distance of the Subalterns from the Souldiers, is 5 Foot; The great Street between the Captains, and the Subalterns, is sometimes 15 Paces, and sometimes 20; Behind the Captains Huts is their Equipage, and at a convenient Distance the Sut­lers Encampt; the Pikes, Colours, and Musquets must be placed at the Head of every Company; The Huts of the Foot always to be open to the Streets, and those of the Cavalry towards the Horses Heads; and it is always to be observed, that every Evening after the Tap-too is beaten, the Word is to be given, after which none is to pass along the Line that hath not the Word.

To conclude, The Quartering the Army at all times, (especially when the Enemy is very near) ought to be in such manner, as that the Souldiers may be soonest in Battalia to receive them, that is, that such Forces as compose the Wings and Body, may have only to go out of their Huts and Tents, to be in the Figure you design to fight in; else in case of an Alarum, the dangers will be many, and great.

Of Giving of Battle.

AS there is no Act of War so great in it self, or in the consequences thereof, as Fight­ing or giving Battle, the Advantages being emi­nent to the General that wins it, and the Preju­dices many and considerable to him that loseth it; so nothing ought to be more exactly weighed, and judiciously considered, and hardly any thing more essentially to be studied by a General, than [Page 169] perfectly to know, and lay hold on all the Ad­vantages in the Day of Battle, and to know all the Disadvantages, to avoid them.

The Ranging an Army in Battle to the best Advantage is a great step to the winning the Vi­ctory; which depends not only on the Wisdom, and Skill of the General, the nature of the Ground, and the quality of his own Forces; but also on those of his Enemies, and on the dispo­sition of him that commands them. And al­though 10 no certain, or standing Rule can be given to answer all these Varieties, yet some positive Maxims may be set down, which if punctually observed may beneficially answer all occasions that may fall out; for we find that even the greatest Captains of antient times (whose Military knowledge, and Practice the Moderns extol and value) have not ever observed one and the same Form of giving Battle, but varying as occasion offered.

Caesar at that memorable Battle fought on the 20 Pharsalian Plains against Pompey, did quite after the manner of the Roman Imbatteling; for having found that Pompey exceedingly out-numbred him in Horse, he covered one of his Flanks with a little River, and drew all his Cavalry to the o­ther Flanks; among the Squadrons whereof he placed Bodies of the best Infantry, and there he began to Battle; whereby having all his Horse on one Wing, and these accompanied with select Legionary Foot, he soon routed the half of Pom­peys 30 Horse that opposed all his, and then falling into the Flanks, and Rear of his Enemy, won the Victory.

The Maxims are as followeth.

1st. TO be first drawn up on the Ground the Army is designed to fight on, which is always attended with several considerabl Advan­tages, as the Honour gained by being earliest on 40 the Spot, which animates the Souldiers, and of­ten daunts the Enemy, having thereby the oppor­tunity of possessing all the Advantages of the Ground, which are to be so exactly considered, and the Field you fight in viewed so well, that when the Army is drawn up, the Order of it may not afterwards be altered, or the Ground changed; for all such mutations in the Face of an Enemy are very Dangerous, giving them the greater confidence, and the Army the less Cour­age,50 as being an evidence to both of a great failure in Conduct. Likewise being first drawn up in the Field, the Army is in a posture to fall on, and rake the Enemy with their Cannon, whilst they are drawing up, which Advantage when it may be taken, is of great use.

Secondly, That a General is never to omit in the drawing up of his Army, so to dispose of his Squardrons, and Battalions as that every one of them may come to fight again and again, if need 60 requires, before they are totally routed.

It is also observable, that in a Battle who ever [...] in reserve a Body of Men that are not lead to fight until all the Enemies Squardrons have fought, rarely falls to get the Victory; and those that have the last Reserves are very likely at last to be Victorious.

The Romans constantly fought their Infantry in there Lines, or Orders of Battle; the one be­hind the other, if the Hostatii were worsted, they fell between the Intervals of the Principi, and there Rallied again, whilst the Principi advanced; and if both the Hostatii and Principi were routed, they fell in between the Intervals of the Triarii, and if those could not sustain the Shock, the Day was lost.

Thirdly, to have expert, vigilant and valiant Commanders to be at the Head of the five gross Bodies, of which an Army is usually composed in the Day of Battle; viz. the three Tertias of the Infantry (which as they March are called the Van, the Body, and the Rear) and the two Wings of the Cavalry, and this in the second Line, as well as the first (the distance between them be­ing 300 Paces) since it is easier to attack well whilst all is in Order, than to recover a disor­der when once hapned. With these Officers 'tis of great importance to have an able General of the Artillery, and that he have sufficient Officers under him. That the Carriages, Ammunition, &c. be in good order, and the Cannon early, and well planted, as that the Shot may rake thwart the Squardrons and Battalians of the Enemy, which will not only do great execution, but also disor­der Bodies of the Enemies Infantry and Caval­ry.

Fourthly, Always place the best of the Soul­diery in the Wings of the Army, and to begin the Battle, on that side of the Army which is strong­est, and the Enemy the weakest.

This ha's been a very antient Method, and seldome has been omitted, but to the loss of those that are guilty of such omissions; and the reason is clear, Because the Troops on the Wings are not wedged in, as the Troops in the main Battle are, but are at liberty to make all the Advantages that by Accident, or the ill Con­duct of the Enemy may be offered; and it can­not rationally be expected to fall upon the Ene­mies Flanks, and Rear, but by attacking them on the Wings, which must be done as expediti­ously as possibly (without disordering the Troops) whilst the rest of the Army moves as slowly as they may; and if the first Attack be succesful, then there is opportunity to fall into the Flank, and part of the Rear of the Enemy, whilst the resi­due of the whole Army is marching to Attack them in the Front, which must be quicker in motion when they see the advanced Wing succesful. None are to speak but the Commander in chief, or the Major by his Order. In advancing against the Enemy in Battle out of their Musket-Shot, the Captains, and other Officers at the Head of the Battalions, are all to march in a Line, with their Pikes in their Hands two good Paces before the Souldiers, and are often to look behind them, lest they should insensibly get too much before the Body, and the Souldiers by following too fast, fall into Disorder, at which time the Ranks are to be two great Paces distant and the Files closed in such maner that every Souldier may march at his ease, and so Charge and Fire with­out pressing one upon another, [...] causeth breach of Silence in the Battalion.

[Page 170] When the Army comes within Shot of the Ene­my, and the Musqueteers march ready with their Pans guarded, instead of the Ranks being closed forwards to the Swords-Point (which is usual) there is the distance of one Pace to be al­lowed between the Ranks, and then the whole Line of Captains, and other Offcers are to retire each of them into the Intervals of his Files next after his Post, yet so as they may look to the right and left of the Battalions. 10

As soon as the Battalions come to 30 Paces distant from the Enemy, the Musqueteers are to Fire, the manner of which Firing being ordered them before.

The Officers Commanding the Rear, are to observe that the Battalions keep marching, to cause the Souldiers to close forward easily, and without noise, or confusion, that the Pikes march even with the Mnsqueteers; for if the Pikes be even on the right and left, the Battalion can't be 20 disordered by its March.

The Grandeers (if any) are to be drawn up on the Right of the Battalions, and to augment them without intermixing with them, they being a separate number of Men that are always to be ready for whatsoever shall be Commanded them.

The Commanders of the Battalions may be on Horse-back at the Head of them, by reason they are to be stirring to all parts, to see that the distances be observed; and above all, that 30 none speak except himself, or the Major by his Order, although he is to alight when the Musque­teers make ready, and is to March with his Pike charged against the Enemy.

Fifthly, The last Maxim is, To prohibite and forbid under severe Penalties, the absolute Chase, or Pillage until the Enemy is totally routed on all sides; and then have those Troops only to pursue, that are expresly appointed for it, always having Squadrons to march after the pursuers as near, and in as good Order as if they were going to the Charge, that if the pursued should Rally, and face about, those Troops and Squa­drons may be ready to fall on, and break them a second time. This is of such importance, that a great many Victories seemingly won, have in an instant been lost for want of due care in these two particulars, and therefore ought never to be omitted; for there is nothing that more incourages flying Enemys to rally and fight again, than the seeing a disorderly pursuit of them.

And if Hanibal the Carthaginian General, who was so excellent a Captain to win Victories, had but made this use of them during the second Punick War against the Romans, having defeated them in four great Battels at several places, and so routed their Army, that it had been easie for him to have taken Rome, had he not (after being 16 Years in Italy) been forced to fly into Africa, overcome by Scipio, and been obliged to beg peace of him.

FORTIFICATION. OR, The Art of Rendring a Place Defensible.

THat as nothing is at one brought forth to perfection in any Art or Science; so in this of Fortification. At the first begin­ning the People (as Caesar in his Commentaries. on the Wars with the Gauls, tells us, and as it is amongst the Indians at present) were wont to sur­round their Towns with Piles driven into the Ground in manner of an Impalement, as 10 by this Figure appears.

[figure]

But when they found that the Fury of an attempting E­nemy (as well as Fire) would soon destroy these Wooden Retreats, they be­gan to build high and thick Walls, defending the same from the Top, by throwing down Darts, Arrows, and Stones to an­noy 20 the Enemy, accord­ing to this Figure, as Cartins observes of the Babylonian Walls, which were 150 Foot high, and 32 Foot thick.

[figure]

Experience, the truest Cenfurer in this matter, finding the Imperfection and Disadvantage of this sort of Structure, that the Defenders stand­ing on the Top of the Walls were no more safe from being exposed to Danger, than the Enemy without; and that they could never hit or an­noy them any more when they were come near to the Foot of the Wall, unless they stood on the very Edge of it, where bowing themselves to discover the Enemy at the Bottom, must be ex­posed to the danger of Tumbling down; and therefore the Besiegers being hidden, it was no hard matter for them to place there Battering-Rams, and other Engines (then in use) to force down the Walls, and so get into the Town. For the remedying this, they were forced to make Loop-Holes, or Win­dows below in the Walls, according to this Figure, out of which they annoyed the Enemy.

[figure]

[Page]

[...] Hon.ble George Legge, Baron of [...] Master Generall of ye. Ordnance. [...] Norse to his Ma [...] King Iames [...] Second Leivtenant of Alceholt [...] Forest in [...] hire Admirall of his [...] fleet of [...] Mediteranian. [...] Generall of his [...]

[Page] [Page 171] But it was found, that at the Enemies ap­proaching the Wall, they were secure betwixt these two Loop-Holes, or Windows, within the Triangle a, b, c, according to this Figure; therefore they invented Square-flanked Towers, parallel to the Wall.

[figure]

The Besieged finding 10 the Fore-part of the Tower to be out of sight, and the Angles easie to be Battered by their Rams; and there yet remaining a Triangle a, b, c, in which the Enemy was hid, they changed them to Round ones; by which means a Remedy was found against the most pressing Force, threatned either by the Rams, or other Ancient Engines, which by their Battering, instead of loosing the Stones, forced them towards the Center, and made them stick closer to­gether; 20 and although there was a little Triangle a, b, c, ac­cording to this Fi­gure, yet they could not unfasten the Stones without great difficulty, and by adding a few Win­dows, all Danger (if any remained) was taken away.30

[figure]

Thus the Ancient manner of Fortifying at last was in this Structure of round Towers, and so continued until about the Year of our Lord 1359, one BARTHOLDVS SCHVART, a German Monk at Collogne, invented that admi­rable Composition of Gunpowder, which was soon after followed with that of the Musquet and Cannon; so that by this means the manner of Warring was changed from the Battering-Rams, to the Thundring of Guns; and the Round Towers (which were not altogether flanked by the Be­siegers 40 Fire) were turned into Bulwarks and Ba­stions, with sharp Points towards the Compaign, defending and flanking one another without the least hidden place to the Enemy to lodge them­selves in, having thick and solid Ramperts of Earth behind their Walls, to resist the Violence of the Enemies Batteries; the which are in use to this Day.50

CHAP. I.
Of the Terms, and Angles, rela­ting to Fortification, Illustrated by the Letters of the Alphabet, as well on the Ichnography, or Ground-Plot, as on the Ortho­graphy,60 or Profile; Sceno­graphy, or Perspective.

Of the Ichnography, or Ground-Plot Lines Plate I, Fig. II.

A, Is a Polygone, or a Figure made of seve­ral Sides and Angles.

BD, is the Radius, or distance from the Center of the Polygone, and represents the Wall that surrounds a place.

A, a, is the Exterior circumference, or Poly­gone, that passes by the Points of the Angles of the Bastions.

V, X, F, G, H, is the Plane of a Bastion, on which there is to be raised a thick and solid mass of Earth, sometimes lined with Stone, or Brick; Their use is to contain under Covert a sufficient number of Musqueteers, and to plant the Ar­tillery theron to scour the Campaign and Ditch round; a place to Flank and defend the Body thereof, and by their solidity the better to resist the force of Mines, and make Retrench­ments behind Breaches, if need require; and they are to be large, that Granadoes do not much Execution on them.

Royal Bastions are such as are not able to resist the force of an Army Royal, being so called when there is a Train of Artillery brought into the Field to attaque the place. HV, is the Gorge of the Bastion, or the distance between the two Flanks of the Bastion, and is the Ground where ordinarily the Besieged make their last Retrenchments.

CV, is the Demi-Gorge of the Bastion, or the distance from the Angle of the Polygone to the Angle of the Curtain and Flank.

CF, is the Capital of a Bastion, or the ex­tension of the Radius betwixt the Angle of the interior and exterior Polygone.

FG, is the Face of a Bastion, or the part of the Bastion that extends it self from the Point of the Bastion to the Flank, and is the weakest part in all the Fortification; because of its being more exposed to the Besiegers Batteries; and being only defended by the opposite Flank, is the place where the Enemy ordinarily makes their Breaches, to which they pass their Galleries, and where they generally make their Mines.

HG, is the Flank, or the Line raised from the extremity of the Demi-Gorge to the Face. This is the Post from which the Besieged defend the Curtain, and the opposite Flank and Face of the Bastion, scouring the Ditch, Counterscarp, Glassis, and other Out-Works, which is the rea­son why the Besiegers endeavour by their Bat­teries and Artillery to ruine the Flanks at the be­ginning of a Siege.

H, is a Cazemat, and Orillon which covers the Cannon in the Flank from being dismounted at any distance, and to this end obliges the Enemy to raise their Batteries almost under the Besiegeds Fire.

HI, is the Curtain, or the part of the side of the Polygone that is between the two Demi-Gorges of the two opposite Bastions; This is the part best defended in all the Fortification, being thus secured by the two opposite Flanks, and for this reason the Ports and Gates of a Town are ordinarily made in the midst there­of.

PO, is the plain of the Rampert, or the Ter­rafe of the Town.

PZ, is the Parapet or Breast-work, that covers the Musqueteers that are on the Rampert.

[Page 172] HI, is the second Flank, or that part of the Curtain which defends the Face of the opposite Bastion.

HE, is the Line of Defence, which extends it self from the Angle of the Flank and Curtain, to the Point of the opposite Bastion, and is not to exceed the Point-Blank distance of a Musquets execution.

IE, is the Stringent Line of Defence, which determines on the Curtain the length of the se­cond 10 Flank, the Flanks, and the Faces of the Bastions.

F, E, N, is the Ditch that goes round a place out of which the Earth is taken that makes the Ramperts.

R, Y, M, S, is the Counterscarpe, or the Edge of the Ditch, that is, towards the Compaign.

1, 2, 3, is the cover'd Way, or Corndor.

4, 5, 6, is the Base, or largeness of the Espla­nade, or Glassis, or the Parapet of the cover'd 20 Way.

Of the Angles. Plate 1. Fig. 1.

IT is to be observed, that an Angle is mark'd by three Letters, and the middlemost always denotes the Angle.

C, B, D, is the Angle of the Center, and is made by the meeting of two Semidiameters, drawn from the Angles of the Polygone to its Cen­ter. 30

A, C, D, is the Angle of the Polygone, and is formed by the meeting of two sides of the Poly­gone.

X, F, G, is the Angle of the Bastion, or Flanked Angle, and is made by the meeting of the two Faces of the Bastion.

F, G, H, is the Angle of the Shoulder, made by the meeting of the Face and Flank.

C, H, I, is the Angle formed of the Flank and 40 Curtain.

Of the Orthography, or Profile, with the Sceno­graphy and Perspective of a Fort. Plate 1. Fig. 2.

ENgineers use to represent the different Heights and thickness of the Earth of a Fort by a Section, through the middle of the Curtain, which they call Profile.

BB, is the Horizental Line, on which the Fort 50 is to be raised.

B, C, E, D, is the Rampert, or the Solid Earth round a place.

BC, is the Base, or Foot of the Rampert, the distance between the Ditch and the Town.

DE, is the Terraplane, or the upper largeness of the Rampert.

FD, is the Interior Slope of the Rampert.

EC, is the Exterior Slope, or Talum, which 60 oft-times is lined with Brick, or Stone.

N, O, E, is the Parapet, or Solid Earth, that is raised upon the Rampert, to cover the Souldiers from being exposed to the Besiegers Fire.

KN, is the Interior Height of the Parapet, which is always the height of a Tall Man.

NO, is the Superior Slope, or Glassis of the Parapet, on which the Besieged lay their Mus­quets when they Fire towards the Compaign.

4, are the Embrassures, or Cannon Ports.

LO, is the Exterior Slope of the Parapet.

P, H, I, is the Banquet, or Foot-Bank, at the Foot of the Parapet towards the Town, on which the Musqueteers stand when they Fire.

CR, is the Plane of the Fausse-bray.

R, S, T, is the Parapet of the Fausse-bray.

TV, is the Barm, or little Plane, to hinder the Parapet of the Fausse-bray, which is always to be of Earth, lined with Turf, from tumbling into the Ditch.

V, Y, X, Z, is the Ditch, or Moat that is round the Fort.

VY, is the Scarp, or Slope of the Wall next the Ditch.

2, is the Cunet, or little Cannal in the midst of the Ditch.

ZX, is the Counterscarp, or outward Slope of the Ditch.

Z4, is the Cover'd Way, and is that which Souldiers ordinarily call the Counterscarp.

6, 7, 8, is the Glassis, or Esplanade; or the Para­pet of the Cover'd Way, which slopes until it loseth it self into the Campaign: On the Top of this Parapet there are Palisadoes usually plant­ted.

CHAP. II.
General Maxims to be observed in Fortification.

1. THat there be no place, or Work that is not Flanked, and defended by another. This is evident from what has been said already, and the common practice of an Enemy teaches. For the Besiegers ruining by their Batteries the Parapets and Flanks, as dismounting the Besiegeds Cannon, they have no other Design than to make their Miners pass the Ditch, where if they find any place out of sight of the Besiegeds Fire, 'tis easy for them in a little time to make their Mines, and so by this means betwixt a Town Besieged and Taken, there is oft times no more than the difference of 8, or 10 Days; for which reason the Emperour Charles the Fifth, improved the round Bulwarks of his Conquests, into sharp-pointed Bastions.

2. That the great Line of Defence, or that which is near equal to it, viz. the interior Poly­gone exceed not 120 Fathoms, or 720 Feet, which is the Point-blank of a Muskets execution; for 'tis to be observed, that the Defence is to be taken from the Musket, and not from the Cannon, seeing the Cannon require too many Men to man­age them, consumes a great deal of Ammunition, are easily dismounted, and with great difficulty planted again, neither can they maintain a con­tinual Fire. And it has oft times been observed, that Engineers to make the fewer Bastions, and [Page 173] consequently to spare a little Mony have com­mitted this intollerable Fault.

3. The greater and more spacious the Gorges and Flanks are (provided the rest of the Works be not prejudiced thereby) the better is the For­tification.

The Gorges ought to be so large, that on both sides of the Flanks, Cannon may be planted, that the Souldiers may go up and down to the Bastion, in a good Front, without giving any inconve­niences 10 to those that are at the Flanks; likewise there must be place to make Retrenchments, if ne­cessity require.

The Flanks are the most considerable parts of Fortification, and from which depends the De­fence of the other parts, as the Curtain, Flanks and Faces of the opposite Bastions, the Ditch and Counterscarp, &c. they are to be made so great as the just proportion of the Bastion will admit of; for in making them too great, the Capitals 20 will become too long, and by consequence the Line of Defence will exceed the Port of a Musket, (which is against the second Maxim); or in making them too little, the Bastions will be­come obtuse, and will entirely cut off the se­cond Flank, while we ought to have consider­ation for it.

4. That the Angle of the Bastion be not much less than 60 Degrees, or much more than 90; for being less than 60, it is so slender, as easily 30 to be battered down; and being greater than 90, it will be more large than is necessary, and short­en the second Flank; and besides it shall con­tain less Ground than the Bastion of an Angle of less Degrees, built on the same Gorges and Flanks.

5. The greater the Angle is that is made of the outward Polygone and the Face, the greater is the Defence of the Face; For then the Strin­gent Line of Defence comes not so much upon 40 the Curtain, and consequently leaves the greater second Flank.

6. All the Works ought to be Cannon Proof.

CHAP. III.
Of Regular Fortification.50

IN the construction of Regular Figures, and how to Fortify them according to the most modern ways used by the Italians, French and Dutch, with the Methods of some Modern Au­thors.

Regular Fortification is that which is made upon Equiangular, and Equilateral Figures described in a 60 Circle, such as a Triangle, Quadrangle, or four­square Pentagone, or five-sided Figure to a Do­decagone, or twelve-sided Figure; the Bastions be­ing so placed that the Points of them are alike distant, from the Center; the Curtains of one length, and all the other Lines and Angles of one Form, and greatness.

Regular Figures are made by calculating the Angle at the Center, which is by dividing 360, the number of Degrees, a Circle is always di­vided into, and in which the Regular Figure is described by the number of the sides of any Polygone, or Regular Figure the Fort is to consist of. The Quotient shews the Angle of the Center. As in this Example of a Pentagone, or 5 sided Figure. By the operation the Angle of the Center, is found to be 72 Degrees, and so of any other Figure. Then if with a Protractor, or a Line of Chords you draw a Circle, and set off the Angle at the Center, as in the Example 72 Degrees, it will divide the Circle exactly into 5 equal Parts, on which strait Lines drawn from one Point to another, gives the sides of a Penta­gone.

The Protractor is described in the Treatise of Geometry, viz. surveying, and is nothing else but a Semicircle made on Brass, or Horn divided in­to 180 Degrees.

The Line of Chords is the fourth part of a Circle, or 90 Degrees, projected on a strait Line, such as are always upon any plain Scale.

The Radius, or Semidiameter of a Circle, for which this Line shews the Degrees, is always represented by the Brasen Point at 60 Degrees on the same Line, and if with your Compasses you take from the Line of Chords 60 Degrees, and draw a Circle 72 Degrees, taken from off the same Line, will go 5 times exactly round the Cir­cle, and so of any other Figure.

Of the Italian Method according to P. Sardi.

THis Author being learned, and much ex­perienced in the Wars in his time, has wrote much, and to good purpose; so that I choose him as the most approved of the Italian Authors. He makes the Interior Polygone 800, Venetian or Geometrical Feet, (which makes 921 of the English,) the Demi-Gorges 150, and the Flanks also 150, so that the Gorges and Flanks are equal, and in English Feet make 172 1/2 for each, which is betwixt a 1/5 and 1/6 part of the Interior Polygone; He raises the Flanks Perpendicular to the Curtain; and to set off the Faces and Angles of the Bastions in a Square and Pentagone, he makes the Line of Defence fall on a 1/10 of the Curtain in the Hexagone, or a 1/4 Part; in a 7, 8, and 9 sided Figures on a 1/3; and in all above on the half. In this Example of a Hex­agone, divide the Curtain into 4 equal Parts, from N. which is 1/4 of it, draw a Line by the Top of the Flank, until it cut the Radius prolonged in the Point a, so you have the stringent Line of Defence, the Face of the Bastion, and the Angle required, and so a Polygone.

To reduce this construction to the second Maxim, you are to find the particular Measures by the Rule of Proportion, thus.

If 800 Venetian Feet, give 150 for the Gorge, how much will 921 English Feet give? Answer 172. Then again, If 921 English Feet give 172 for the Gorge, how much will 720 give? Answer 134.

After this manner all the rest of the Parts are found out.

Now to the Construction. Plate 1. Figure 3.

IN the Hexagone drawn as before taught on the side mark't P. Sardi, divide the side P, P, into 720 Parts, at 134, or cc, make a Mark for the Demi-Gorges, set up Perpendicular to the Curtain; the same Measure for the Flanks c, f, and draw the Faces as before. These parts may be taken off from any Sector, or Joynt Ruler, or 10 from any Diagonal Scale of an Inch, or 1/2 an Inch divided into 100 Parts.

In a Book of Military Architecture entituled Corona Imperialis written by this Author, he sets Cazemats and Orillons on the Flanks; Of which in their place.

Of the French Method as it is by Manesson Mallet Author of the Travaux de Mars. Plate 1. Figure 3.20

THis Author observes the same Rules for the construction of all the Regular Figures, as are here given in this Example of a Hexa­gone.

Having drawn the Polygone PP, extend the Semidiameters by the extremities of the side of the Polygone marked M. Mallet; divide the side P, P, into 3 equal parts; set one of these parts, on the extended Semidiameter or Radius from 30 P, to A, for the Capitals; take a fifth part of the Polygone, for the Demi-Gorges, set it from P, to C, to make the Faces and Flanks draw the Strin­gent Line of Defence, from the Capital to the extremity of the Gorge, and raise the Flanks at an Angle of 98, or 100 Degrees with the Cur­tain; where they cut the Line of Defence deter­mines the length of the Flanks and Faces, as c, f, and f, A; With the length of this Face you may compleat a Polygone all round by Transfer­ing 40 it to the other Lines of Defence.

This Author hath no second Flank, he makes the Stringent Line of Defence, 120 Toises, or Fathoms (allowing 6 Feet to a Fathom) which is 720 Feet.

See Travaux de Mars by this Author of de Ville, and Furnier's Method. Plate 1. Figure 3.

THey Divide the Interior Polygone into 6 e­qual 50 parts, and take one of them for the Demi-Gorge and Flanks Pc, cf, both being e­qual, and at right Angles to the Curtain, for draw­ing the Faces of the square, and Pentagone, lay a Ruler from the extremity of the Gorge C, by the Top of the Flank f, until it cut the Capital in A; These have no Flanks.

For the Hexagone, and all Figures above it, joyn ff, by a Line; the Capital will divide it into two equal parts at e, as a Center draw the 60 Circle f, A, f, at the Distance af, where it cuts the Capital at A, draw af, for the Faces.

These Authors make their Interior Polygone or Line of Defence 150 Toises, or 960 English Feet.

This Method is to be reduced to the second Maxim by the former Rules.

See De Ville's Ingenieur Perfail, and Furniers Architecture Military.

Of the Dutch Method, as it is abridged by the Emperor Ferdinand the Third; with an Account of the Construction of the Fortifications at the Grave in Holland. Plate 1 Figure 3.

THe Dutch have been as famous for their experience in Fortification, as their Coun­trey at present is for their fortifyed Towns; and by their Engineers, as Dogen, Marolois, &c. have filled the World full of their Books, and ways of Fortifying; altho they might have saved them­selves the trouble, and laborious pains in cal­culating Triangles, and other Mathematical Learning, more for curiosity than use in this mat­ter. For which reason the Emperor Ferdinand the Third found out Rules approved of, by turn­ing their Fortifications out of the way of calcula­ting Angles into Lines. He sets down this univer­sal way of drawing the Lines of any Fort.

'Tis to be taken as a Rule, That if the Interior Polygone be 66 of any Measure, the Gorge must be 15, the Flank 12, and the Capital 24.

Now in proportion according to the second Maxim, If the Polygone be 720 Feet, the Capital will be 261 Feet, 9 Inches, the Gorge 163 Feet 7 Inches, the Flank 130 Feet 10 Inches, which is to be set at right Angles with the Curtain; thus by taking of these proportions from the Sector, you may fortify any Figure according to this Method.

This is an abridgment or Epitomy of all the Dutch Fortifications, except the Square, which hath no second Flank.

See Schottus Edition of Amussis Ferdinandea.

The construction of the Fortification of the Grave according to Monsieur Storf.

HAving drawn the Exterior Polygone AB, of 94 Rods, and divided it into two equal parts in C, let fall the Perpendicular CD, of 15 2/3 Rods, which is 1/6 of the Exterior Polygone; then from the Points AB, draw the Lines of Defence ae, and BY, through D, infinitely; divide the Perpendicular CD, into two equal parts at F, by which draw FG, Parallel to AB, cutting the Line of Defence in the Point G, which determines the Face AG. Then for the Point F, at the interval FG, describe the Arch IH, and from the Point G, at the distance of 15 Rods des­cribe IL, cutting the other in the Point I, which shall be the extremity of the Curtain, and of the Line of Defence BI; To trace the Circular Flanks and Oreillons, divide the Flank GI, into 3 equal parts, one of which is for the Oreillon, and the other two the length of the lower Flank. Let also BN, be 1/3 of the Face BZ, and draw NO, infinitely, by the Points N and M, on which take MP, of 2 Rods; then draw IP, with the distance IP; From the Points P and I, describe 2 Arches cutting one another in Q▪ which shall be the Center of the low and high Circular Flanks; let the Interval of them be a Rod; draw RV, Parallel to MO, and at the Interval QP, or QI, draw the Arch R, S, I; and having taken ST, of 5 Rods draw the Arch VX, make X Y, 2 Rods; [Page]

The Ichnographicall and Scenographicall Lines of a FORT. Plate 1.

[Page] [Page 175] so you have traced the two Circular Flanks. For the Oreillon find the Center W, which is the half of GM, and describing the Arch of a Circle, at the distance WM, it comes to touch the Face prolonged in the Point 2.

[figure]

10

Or the Construction may be more short thus: Having drawn as before the Exterior Polygone, the Perpendicular, and the two Lines of Defence, take for every one of 69 Rods 3 feet; take for the Face 25 Rods, and having drawn the Flanks at the 20 exetremity of the Lines of Defence to the extre­mity of the Face, the rest you will find as be­fore, or insensibly near.

The Method according to Count Pagen. Plate 1. Figure 3.

THis Author in his retirement after having been unfortunately Shot in the Eye at the Siege of Arras, wrote a great many good things 30 on this Subject.

He takes a Method quite contrary to any that wrote before him; he works by the outward, or Exterior Polygone, and sets his Flanks Perpendi­cularly to the Lines of Defence; he divides Forts into Royal, Mean, and small Royal.

Royal, when the Exterior Polygone is 200 Fa­thoms, or 1200 Feet. Mean, when the Exterior Polygone is 180 Fathoms. And small Royal, when the Exterior Polygone is 160 Fathoms.40

The Example shall be for a great Royal. The Con­struction is as followeth.

DIvide the Exterior Polygone AA, into two equal parts at M, each being 600 Feet; on M, [...]aise a Perpendicular MM, take 180 Feet, or 30 Fathoms, and set it on the Perpendicular from M to T; then draw A, T, C, for the Lines of Defence, from A, set at AF, 60 Fathoms, or 50 360 Feet; from f, let fall a Perpendicular on the Line of Defence at c, or from T, set of 222 Feet; joyn cc, for the Curtain, upon the Points aa, set at the half of the Angle of the Figure aoa, as in the Hexagone 60 Degrees, that will determin the Centero; set of the Gorge PC, and the Capital Pa, which you may Measure on the same Scale with the rest, and know the length of them in Feet.

For the Mean Royal work, as before; Take 30 60 Fathoms, or 180 Feet for MF, the Perpendicular, 55 Fathoms for the Faces, 32 Fathoms for Tc, or 192 Feet; the Flanks will be found to be 24 Fathoms.

For the small Royal, Take 30, Fathoms, or 180 Feet for the Perpendicular MT; 50 Fathoms, or 300 Feet for the Faces, 27 Fathoms or 162 Feet for Tc; the Flanks will be found to be 23 Fathoms, or 138 Feet, and are at right Angles, or 90 Degrees with the Line of Defence.

See Fortification de Pagen printed at Paris.

The Method of Monsieur * * * Plate 1. Fi­gure 3.

HAving shewed the several ways, and Rules for laying the fundamental ground Lines, according to the most considerable Engineers of this last Age, I shall end this Chapter by giving an Account of the Method used by a famous En­gineer Mounsieur * * * in the building of seve­ral Fortifications beyond Seas, the which I suppose from the Advantages that attend it will commend it self.

You are to take the Interior Polygone of 720 Feet, or 60 Rods, (allowing 12 Feet to a Rod) according to the second Maxim the Point Blank that a Musket doth Execution; a fifth part of this you are to set off for the Demi-Gorges, which is 12 Rods, or 144 Feet; a sixth part to the Flank, viz. 10 Rods or 120 Feet; these two together, viz. 22 Rods or 264 Feet for the Capital, there remains 36 Rods, or 432 Feet for the Curtain. See the Figure.

The Reason why I give a 1/5 part of the Interior Polygone to the Demi-Gorge, is; First, That the Line of Defence may never exceed the Port of a Musquet, which would happen, if I did but give a 1/6 part. Secondly, The Gorge being too short, the Point of the Bastion would become too sharp, or the Capital too short, and by consequence the Bastion too little: This proportion is the best for the Pentagone, Hexagone, and Heptagone, because by these Figures we cannot have the Flanks greater, or the Defence better. But for the Octo­gone, 9, 10, 11, and 12 sided Figures, the follow­ing Method is much better. There is given to the Face 29 Rods, to the Flanks 12, and to the Curtain 36. The Point of the Bastion is 90 De­grees, then the other parts, viz. the Demi-Gorge, the Capitals, the Polygone interior and exterior are found by calculating and forming Trian­gles.

This Method for these Figures is much the better, because the Flanks become greater, and the Angle of the Polygon is greater, the Gorges become greater, the interior Polygone longer, and conse­quently a great deal of more Ground inclosed, than according to the first Method of Fortifying.

The Flanks ought to be perpendicular to the Curtain, or very near it, to the end the Enemy may not make Batteries afar off, but be obliged to make them to rume the Flanks just under the Besiegers Fire, which will cost them much blood and pain; and the reason is evident: For in bring­ing them to fall perpendicular to the Line of Defence, the Flanks are too much exposed to the Enemy, and so discovered to the Campaign, that the Enemy finds all advantages imaginable to raise many Batteries afar off to batter and ruine the Flanks with their Cannon, which is an Enemies chief Design in a Siege, that they may the easier approach the Town, and pass the Ditch. That the design of the Flanks are chiefly to scour the [Page 176] Ditch and Counterscarp, to hinder the Enemy to pass their Gallery, and make a Lodgement, the which seems very reasonable, seeing the Guns from the Faces of the Bastions and Curtain, scours the Campaign more directly than the Guns from the Flanks; and tis' found by the account of Sieges that an Enemy advanceth in a little time very securely in their Trenches to the Counterscarp; wherfore if the Guns be still mounted on the Flanks, to discover them at their breaking the 10 Scap, and that one or two Batteries at most can be raised to dismount them, and that in so dan­gerous a Post too, to be under the Besiegers Fire, it is certaily an advantage not to be found when the Flanks fall perpendicular on the Lines of Defence.

CHAP. IV.20
Of Out-Works, and their Vses.

AS it is a great advantage to a place to be surrounded with a good Ditch, and good Rampert and Walls; so likewise it is a conside­rable disadvantage when there is found low, or rising Ground near the Counterscarp of a Town, 30 which may serve either for Lodgments to the Be­siegers, to facilitate the carrying on their Trenches, or for Advantage-Ground, to raise Batteries a­gainst the Town. For this Reason, Engineers have invented divers sorts of Works for the remedy­ing these Faults; as, to take in the disadvan­tageous Ground, to Elong the Enemy, and to hinder (by being low) their sudden Approaches by raising the Compaign almost with a Horizon­tal Shot, and spend their time before they ad­vance 40 to the main Works, and force them to gain these Out-Works with as great hazard and loss, as if they attempted the Fort it self; and after the Out-Works are lost, it may be a new Work to them to approach the Town.

There are several sorts of Out-Works, such as Ravelins, Half-Moons, or Demi-Lines, Horn-works, Tenails, and Crown-works; of which in order.

Of the Ravelins.50

THere are two sorts of Ravelins; the one with Flanks, and the other without.

The Ravelins with Flanks are set before long Curtains when the two Bastions can't Flank one another with Musquet-Shot, and the Curtain not long enough to build a Plate Bastion on the mid­dle of it. These Ravelins supply the effect of a Bastion not only to cover, but also to de­fend.

The making of these Ravelins is thus; cut 60 the Ditch parallel with the Curtain, above which set up a Capital from 18 to 22 Rods, the Demi-Gorges from 10 to 12 Rods, the Flanks from 8 to 10 Rods, the Ditch round them, the largness of the Flanks going parallel with the Face of the Ravelin, till it meet the Ditch of the Face of the Bastion of the place, to the end the two Flanks of the Ravelin may scour over all the Ditch be­fore the Face of the Bastion.

The other sort of Ravelins consist only of a Capital, and two Faces (as Figure 4, Plate 1. the Ravelin A.) the Capital from 12 to 18 Rods, the the Faces are drawn towards the Shouldiers of the Bastions, that the Ravelin may be command­ed within not only by the Curtain, but also by the two Flanks.

This Work is oft-times by the Souldiers called a Half-Moon; the chief use of it is to cover the Curtain, Bridge, and Gate, and is very often used in most Works. The ordinary way of making them is thus,

Take with the Compasses the extension of the Curtain B, Q; from the Points B and Q, make two Arches crossing one another in D, the Line that passes through the middle of the Curtain; then from the Point D, draw Lines towards E and F, till they cut the Counterscarp in G and H. Joyning GI, and HI, you have the Faces and Demi-Gorges; the Ditch round this Work, as it is in all Out-Works, is half the breadth of the Great Ditch.

Because these Ravelins are weak, they may be made double, one within another, seeing the Ditch round them is narrow, and the Profile slight, and therefore soon Taken and Mined. The Interior Ravelin will serve for a good Re­trenchment, being four foot higher than the other. But both are to be Mined, least the Ene­my find too great advantage to make Batteries, and fill the Ditch. They are to be lower than the Ramperts of the Town, to be always ex­posed to the Besiegeds Fire, in case the Enemy make a Lodgment on them.

Of the Demi-Lunes, or Half-Moons. Plate 1. Fig. 4.

THe Demi-Lune, or Half-Moon, is a Work raised always before the Point of a Bastion, which is so called from the low Cavity of its Gorge.

The Construction is, by prolonging the two Faces of the Bastions; from the Point O, at the distance OK, make the Arch KL, where the Faces prolonged out the Counterscarp; raise the Capital MN, of 2/3 of the Face of the Bastion; then drawing the Faces to the Angle of the Coun­terscarp I, till it cut the Face of the Bastion pro­longed at P, so you have the Flanks KP, and the Face NP, which are to be set off on the other side from N to Q, and from L to Q, the Ditch is to be Parallel to the Faces of the same Breadth with that of the Ravelin.

This Work is no more in use, seeing their Faces have but a weak defence from the Ravelin, the Enemy may ruine them easily, and pass without any difficulty their Ditches, and so make themselves Masters thereof; and the Faces and Flanks of the Demi-Lunes will serve them for Batteries against the Ravelin, and the Flanks of the opposite Bastions. And although they may be Retrenched by Traverses, yet the Enemy will not fail to Attack the Face entirely, or the [Page 177] place where the last Retrenchment is. This hap­pens to another Work, called a Counter-guard, which being likewise out of use, I shall not de­scribe the Figure of them. Vide Plate 1. Fig. 4.

Of the Horn-Works. Plate 1. Fig. 9.

HOrn-Works are to be set before the Curtains, in drawing Lines from it perpendicularly at the two Flanks, towards the Campaign, of 60 10 Rods; their Front is of 36 Rods, equal with the Curtain; this is to be divided into three parts, one for the Curtain, the other two for the Demi-Gorges of the Horn-Work; the Flanks of six Rods, or 72 Feet every one.

This Work is the principal of all the Out-Works, and its found by Experience, that an Enemy is kept back, and gains as little Ground as possible by this Work, rather than by any other; they extend themselves far into the Campaign, 20 their Fronts defend themselves, the Interior of them is open to the Town, they may be often Retrench'd, and consequently fatigue and cozen the Enemy.

But this Work requires many Men; the Flanks and Faces of the Demi-Bastions are too little, and the Rampert too thin to plant Cannon, and to stay on when there is a Breach. Thus an Enemy may easily Mine the Defences on the Front, and by force Master the Demi-Bastions, and on this 30 height make Batteries to ruine the Retrench­ments.

For this Cause, these Works are only to be made when there is a great necessity, and in such places only where the Enemy is obliged to At­tack the place.

To place Ravelins before this Work, observe only the Method in the first Paragraph.

Of the Tenails. Plate 1. Fig. 4.40

THe Tenails (if there be not time to make a good Fortification for the defence of the Bridge and Passages) 'tis usual to raise in haste a Parapet in form of a Tenail, as Fig. 4. their Sides are no longer than the 50 Rods, their Front is of 36 Rods, which is to be divided into four parts; in the middle we draw a Perpendicular, on which is set of a 1/9 part of the Front, towards the Town, and draw Lines from the Sides forming the 50 Faces.

This Work is very proper for the Counter Ap­proaches, when we would succour the place with Men; that which is the true Origen of so many Horn-Works, as well as Tenails, being first in­vented to this end, in the Sieges of Bomel, and Bergen-op-Zoom.

Having time, we make the Tenails stronger, and joyn them to Horn-Works, that the Enemy may be the better discovered at the Angle of the Coun­terscarp, 60 and the Work better defended.

Of the Crown-Works. Plate 1. Fig. 4.

A Crown-Work is ordinarily made when a Height is so near a place, that the Shot of a Musquet reaches it; to this end we extend the Sides of this Work (whether the Crown-Work be before the Curtain, or Bastion) 65 Rods, the Point of the Demi-Bastions are to be at least 60 Degrees. Joyn the Extremities of the Sides; on the Middle raise a Line perpendicular, on which set 18 Rods for the Capital, making an Angle, and two Interior Polygons, every one of about 50 Rods, giving 10 to the Demi-Gorges, and 8 to the Flanks. We make Ravelins to this Work, as is taught in the first Paragraph.

This Work may serve to adjoyn to Forts, that are too little to Lodge a great Garrison, which oftentimes happens when small Places, or Towns of no great Consequence, become great Fron­tiers, when it would cost too much to enlarge the whole Fortress round by making of a new Wall: And it would not be so convenient to throw down the old Work, which a small Gar­rison (if need were) could maintain.

All the Out-Works ought to be detached from the place, and environed all round with a Ditch, having their Communication by Bridges; or if the Foss, or Ditch, be dry by Land, yet not joyned with the Counterscarp, lest the Enemy in­vest them behind.

All these Out-Works (with many more) are re­presented in the Figure on the second Plate.

Of Cittadels and Castles.

CIttadels, and Castles, are built to Command and Bridle a Town, in case the Burgers should be Rebellious, and to be the last Refuge or Retreit. They are commonly of four or five Bastions, and are used when a Town is so great, that the Garrison makes in Number but a 1/5 or 1/6 part of the Burgers; al­though sometimes they are used as Blinds, built on any Hill, or Rising-Ground near a Town, from hindring an Enemy from Shooting into it. They are set so, that there may be two Faces, and a Curtain towards the Town.

The Pentagon is the most advantageous Figure to make a good Cittadel, which opposes three Bastions to the Enemy, and two to the Town, Commanding at the same time both the Cam­paign and the Town.

The Interior Polygon of the Pentagon may be made of 1/4 of the adjoyning Curtain, or a little more; the two Ports, or Gates of the Cittadel are placed, that one may be towards the Cam­paign, the other towards the Town, every one covered by a Ravelin.

If the Cittadel, or Castle, be a square, or 9 sided Figure, then the Center of it may be on the Point of the Interior Polygon of the place.

The Center of the Pentagon, or 5 sided Figure, may be near on the Point of the Bastion of the Town, taken away to make the Cittadel in, al­though some use them at a greater distance.

The Gorges, Flanks, and Capitals are set off in proportion to their Interior Polygons; the Ram­perts are to be as high as those of the Town.

For a more particular description of the Out-Works, consult Travaux de Mars.

CHAP. V.
Of the Ramperts and Parapets; Walls, Cazemats, and Orillons; Faussebray, Ditch, or Moat, and Covered Way.10

Of the Ramperts, and Parapets.

THe Rampert is a great and thick Massy-Bank of Earth, raised round about the Fort, Inclosing it to resist the Enemies Great Shot, and to save the Buildings of the Town from ruine; and by their Height, the better to annoy the Enemy in their Approaches: And therefore ought 20 always to be so high, that they may Command with the Artillery planted on them, the Cam­paign all round, and that the Enemy may not Command them by raising the Batteries higher.

But to this end, you must take notice of the Measure, and make the Ramperts never higher than 20 Feet without the Parapet, that it may Command the better the Covered Way, and Ditch, and not by too great height give opportunity to the Enemy to be under Covert. And on the con­trary,30 the Rampert ought not to be less than 12 Feet without the Parapet, otherwise the E­nemy will Command it easily by their Batte­ries.

The Thickness ought to be so regulated, that the Parapets builded on them may be strong enough to resist the Violence of the Enemies Cannon; and that behind them there may be place enought to plant Great Guns.

But as the Earth is not always the same, you 40 are to consider what the Nature of it is. If the Earth be Tough and Clayish, a Bullet of 24 lib. will enter no farther than 10 Feet; but if the Earth be Light, and Loose, or Sandy, then a Bullet of the same weight will enter 15 Feet, or more. Therefore the Parapet must be made from 16 to 24 Feet, chiefly in the Flanks, and other places where there are made Counter-Batteries.

The Interior height of the Parapet is 6 Feet, the Exterior 4 Feet; the Base of the Interior 50 Talii, or Slope, 7 Feet, the Exterior Talii 2 Feet; the Banquet, or Foot-Bank, 3 Feet broad, and a Foot and an half in height.

The largeness of the Terraplane of the Ram­pert, is always proportioned to the Length, and Recoyling of the Cannon. Since then, that a Demi-Cannon, or a Culverin, are about 15 Feet long, and they Recoil about 6, 7, 8, or 9 Feet; and there being place necessary to manage them, the Terraplane ought to be at least from 32 to 60 40 or 50 Feet large.

This Largeness ought to be set all round a place, and the Bastions ought to be entirely filled, if it could conveniently be done; but so, that the Talii, or Slope towards the Town may be proper to ascend with the Cavalry (as it is in the Cittadel of Antwerp.) In such Bastions you may more easily Rencounter and discover the Enemies Mines; and they ought to this end be Vaulted, either in Building; or if that be neglected, in time of a Siege.

The Interior Talii of the Rampert is equal to the height of it, that is, a Foot for a Foot; the Exterior Talii, or Slope, is the half of the height, if the Earth be good; otherwise ⅔. The Base of the Rampert is found by adding to the Terraplane, the Banquet, Parapet, and two Ta­lii's.

It were very convenient (if there were Earth enough) to make the Ramperts larger, and Vault them under with Entries towards the Town, to be places of Refuge for the Citizens, to be safe from the Enemies Bombs, which do great Exe­cution in their Houses. To this end, at the Grave in Holland, having Earth enough, by reason of their enlarging the Fortifications of the Town, they do intend to improve it to this Advantage.

But the Solidity and Dimensions of the Ram­pert, must have their determinations from the Judgment of the Engineer, according as the Ground may prove; and from the Purse of the Prince, according as there is Money enough to finish withal. Therefore I have given the highest Measure that is to be used in some of the Works, and the least in others; from which you may proportion any mean Measure, according as the Ground and Money gives leave.

If it were the Custom now to agree with En­gineers, as Princes and States did not many Years agon, in the Building the Fortifications of their Towns, to treat with them according to such and such a Design, as proposed to them, to render the Town defensible in a limited Time; and it is to be their business to provide Earth, Stone, Instru­ments, and all Materials necessary to the carrying on and compleating the Works; by this means the Engineer was obliged to calculate the Thickness and Solidity of the Ramperts, to the end he might know exactly how much Earth, Stones, and other Materials he must have; how much he must dig and enlarge the Ditch; and consequently be able to tell in what Time, and for how much Money he could raise and com­pleat the Work. If this were the Custom, it would not be impertinent to shew how to build up a Fort, and make an estimate of the Costs and Moneys required to perform the same; al­though it were a very hard Task to perform exactly: For there being such a variety in the Body, or Mass, whereon the Fort is to be built, as either Brick, or Stone, Solid strong Earth, or Moorish, or Marshy Ground, where there will be a prodigious Expence in Pilating the Founda­tions of the Ramperts, the neglect of which has made very fine and fair Designs tumble into the Ditch. Upon this Account Princes take ano­ther Method; they have particular Engineers, and Intendants, of which the one gives the De­sign, and pays the Work-men, and the other fur­nishes the Stones, and other Materials, and to keep the Work-men at their Work, overseeing them.

In a word, This Business passes through so many Hands, that it is difficult to know how much the Work will cost to raise it Compleat, [Page 179] unless all the Accounts be gathered into one, which cannot be done till after the Works are finished.

In Plate 1. Fig. 5. you have the Dimensions and Measures of the Rampert and Parapets, and is as followeth in the Profile, cut at right Angle through the Face of a Bastion.

 Feet.
R, A, The Base of the Rampert, is80
T, S, or Q, O, The Height of the Rampert, is20
R, S, The Interior Talii, or Slope,20
O, A, The Exterior Talii04 ½
L. Q. The Base of the Parapet21
Z, D, The Interior Height of the Parapet06
N, P, The Exterior Height04
N, Q, The Exterior Talii of the Parapet02
Q, D, The Interior Talii01 ½
V, Q, The Breadth of the Banquet, or Foot-Bank03
V, X, The Height of the Foot-Bank01 ½
T, V, The Largeness of the Terraplane35

10
20

The Profile of the rest of the Works will be found in their particular Paragraphs.

To give Rules, to cast up and find the solid Content in Feet, and Rods, of the Rampert and Parapet, were to repeat what I suppose is hand­led in the Treatise of Geometry; and I do not 30 find the great use of this Curiosity to be parti­cular in applying the Rules to this purpose: For I do think, that if there be not Earth enough had out of the just Deepness and Wideness of the Ditch, it will do no great hurt to make either the Ditch Deeper, or Wider; and if there cannot be had enough, but by altering too much the Proportion, or the Ground not giving leave, it may be had somewhere else near the Town; and seeing Work-men are to be paid by Day-Wages, if 40 the Overseers do their Duty right, the Prince is not at all Cheated, although he knows not how many Baskets full of Earth the Works contain, yet not to let this altogether pass.

Note, That the Earth, or Solidity that lyes be­tween T, Q, and S, O, is a Parallelipipedon, all of one height and thickness, and the Content of it is found by Multiplying the Superficies at the Bottom, by the height of the Rampert. The Earth that lyes on either side of this Body, and has 50 each Talum for its Base, and ends at the Top of the Rampert in a Line, are Prismes, or half of Parallelipipedons, as o, a, c, and S, R, T, and their Solid content is found by Multiplying the Superficies at the Bottom, by half the height.

There is found in casting up the Solidity of the Ramperts, two sorts of Pyramids, viz. erect Pyramids, and their Solidity is had by Multiply­ing the Base into ⅓ of the height, those ly to the outside of the Rampert, and have one or two Sides to be seen.60

The second sorts are Pyramids jacent, and their Solidity is found by Multiplying the Superficial content of the Base, by ⅔ of the height; these ly with all their Sides hidden in their Rampert; all the Sums added together, give the solid con­tent of the Rampert. For the Parapet and Ban­quet, you are to follow the same Rules.

Of the Walls.

THe Ramperts that are revetued; or Faces with Stone or Brick, are the best both against Scaling and Mining, and are very useful to sustain the Ramperts from tumbling into the Ditch, by the badness of the Weather.

Engineers have made a considerable improve­ment in the form of erecting the Walls, which certainly must turn to a considerable Account. Instead of Building the Walls, as before, Perpendi­cular towards the Town, now they bring them up with such a Slope as they give to the Walls with­out, which both saves about a ⅕ or ⅙ part of Stone or Brick, that must be used; and the Earth of the Ramperts behind them lying almost in it its natural Position, doth not press the Wall so much forward into the Ditch, as when the Walls are brought up Perpendicular, as is clear in Figure 6. Plate 1.

This they put in use at the Grave, where they find it turns to good Account; and I am sure, that if what was before built of the Town had been after this Method, the State had not been put to double Expences.

The Walls of the Bastions are to be built higher than the Walls of the Curtain, which may be only about 12 Feet in Perpendicular height, and 3 Feet for the Slope, their Conter-forts may be about 14 or 15 Feet in length, 3 Feet in thick­ness, and 12 Feet Distant one from the other. But the Walls of the Bastions, may be erected so high as in the Figure, 22 Feet in Perpendicular height, 4½ for the Slope, 6 Feet thick at Top and Bottom, the Counter-forts 16 Feet long, thick at the Wall 5 or 6 Foot, 12 Foot of distance, or less, according as the Ground or Foundation proves.

If the Ground be Moorish or Marshy, then the Foundation of the Walls must be Piloted, and the Piles drove so deep, that a 16 or 20 hand Bill-bettle will not drive at last above a quarter of an Inch, when then the Piles will touch the firm Ground, The Piles are to be set at greater or lesser dist­ance according as the Foundation is, and are or­dinarily of about 10 Inches Square. Over these Piles there must be strong Timbers layed, and Cross these there must be others of the same thickness, notched into one another, so thick as the seat of the Wall is; at the inside thereof is layed a Timber of 6 Inches Square, or there a­bouts, and at the forepart of the Wall, there is another of a Foot Square layed over the Cross Timbers, and Notches into them to Prop the Foot of the Wall; betwixt this Timber and the Wall, there are Planks of 4 Inches thick joyned toge­ther and driven into the Ground just with the Slope of the Wall, to hinder the Water of the Ditch, from Washing out the Lime from the Walls, or the Earth under the Timbers, betwixt the two Square Timber above the Cross ones; there are to be Planks layed of 3 Inches thick, on which the Wall is to be erected. The Earth betwixt the Counter-forts is to be well rammed and beaten.

If there be no Faussebray before the Faces of the Bastions, there ought to be made a Vault or Alley of 3 Foot large, 6 Foot high, with small Windows to shoot into the Galleries.

[Page 180] A (in Figure 7. Plate 1.) is the Figure of the Instrument the Workmen apply to the Walls, to bring up the Slope true, by the Plumets playing down exactly upon the Line.

Of Cazemats, and Orillons.

CAzemats are several Platforms for Guns to be made in the Corner of the Flanks, to be hid conveniently from the Enemies Batteries, and 10 to be preserved, if possible, against the Enemy shall begin to lay their Gallery, and pass over the Ditch, or to plant their Guns, and raise Batteries on the Counterscarp.

To this end there are Orillons set on the Flanks, of ⅔ or ½ of the Flank to keep at least two Can­non under Covert, and are made either of a a round Figure, or Square, as are to be seen on the Flanks of several of the Bastions of the Figure on the second Plate. For the Construction of these 20 Figures consult Travaux de Mars.

Engineers of late do find fault with these Oril­lons since they ought necessarly to be revetued with a Wall. If the Enemy do play with their Can­on, no body will be able to stand in the Casemats, by reason of the broken Wall flying, and they find that the Orillons do hinder from defending from within the Ravelins, and for these reasons they do not commend the use of them.

In Flanks that are not Perpendicular to the 30 Curtain; and consequently too open to the Besieg­ers Batteries, these Orillons supply the fault, of their being too open, which I suppose has been the reason why some Authors seem so positive for them; but where the construction of the Flanks is perpendicular to the Curtain, they do not ap­pear to be needful, seeing the Embrassures of the Parapets cover enough.

Of the Faussebray.

AT the Foot of the Rampert Engineers make 40 a Faussebray all round a place, but especi­ally before the Faces of the Bastions; they are large, from 18 to 24 Feet of a Terraplane, with a Parapet, as that of the Rampert; of late they have neglected to make Faussebrays alledging for rea­sons,

1. Since the Faussebray is but a Parapet raised above the Level of the Campaign, the Enemy be­ing 50 advanced to, and possessed of the Counterscarp, which is ordinarily of the same height, it may enfile it with their Batteries so easily, that it were impos­sible for the Besieged to stay thereon, and hinder that the Enemy might not pass the Ditch.

2. That the Ditch being passed, the Miners find place to Mine the Faces of the Bastions where they will, and in many Places at a time, and the Mine being made, the Besiegers may not only make the Assault at the Breach, but also on the 60 Right and Left, in the Faussebray, and Attack o­ver all.

3. And that which is the greatest reason, that the quantity of Bombs, which are at present Shot, the Faussebray will in few Hours be Totally ruin­ed.

But in considering the great Advantages the Faussebray gives to a place, since from them the escape which the Enemy is obliged to make through the Covered Way is easily discovered, and the Enemy not only annoyed on the side, but likwise on the Front, and so hindered by Musquet-Shot, Granadoes, and Artificial Fire to fill the Ditch, and make a Gallery; and seeing also they defend the Ravelins, and Covered Way, much better than an high Rampert, it is more reasonable to remedy the Faults, than to reject the use of the Faussebray before the Faces of the Bastions.

As to the first Reason, viz. the Enfilement that the Enemy may make, the Faussebray may be made 9 Feet higher than the Parapet of the Co­vered Way.

The second, and third Faults may be reme­died by Traverses, Caponiers, with little Palisa­does and Countermines; the rest of the Faults are remedied by making a small Ditch of 20 Feet between the Rampert of the Town, and the Faussebray.

When the Ditch, or Moat is dry, then the Faussebray is not found so convenient, as when it is full of Water.

See (concerning the Advantage of the Fausse­bray) Chap. 2. Lib. 1. Dogen, and Chap. 28. Lib. 1. de Ville.

Of the Ditch, or Moat.

THe Ditch or Moat is to be made so that the Flanks may command and scour it be­fore the Faces of the Bastions; to this end the Ditch before the Faces is so broad as the Flanks are long, by drawing it towards the Shoulders of the opposite Bastions.

A wet Ditch ought to be so deep, that in the Summer there be no less than 6 Foot of Water in it.

The dry Moats may be deep from 20 to 30 Feet; and the Moats that are deep, and tolerable large, are esteemed better than such as are less deep and larger, to render the getting up the more difficult to the Enemy; although the Moat should never be less than 6 Rods, or 72 Feet; otherwise there cannot be made Retrenchments, and other Works in it; and the Enemy by firing a Mine at the Counterscarp, may cover and ren­der all unprofitable. In the middle of the Ditch there is a Cunet, or Canal, made of 20 or 24 Feet Broad, which serves in dry Moats to Counter­mine, and to cause greater Pains to the Enemy to fill it.

The Ditches full of Water [...], are much better than the Dry ones; because these require too great a Garrison to defend them. For when the Enemy is once Master of the Counterscarp, he may render himself Master of the whole Ditch, and Attack in different places, in such a manner, that the Be­sieged will be obliged to furnish all their Posts, and to have them ready over all. The dry Ditches are likewise too much exposed to Surprize and Scaling; when (on the other hand) the Wet Ditch costs the Enemy much Pains and Time before they can fill it, and the Besieged see where they are to pass and Mine; and therefore has need [Page 181] only to take notice of that Post, and at the rest to keep little Corps des Guards, and Senti­nels.

See De Ville's Ingenieur perfaite on this Sub­ject.

Of the Covered Way, and Counterscarp.

BEyond the Ditch, towards the Campaign, there is a large place of 20 or 30 Feet, 10 covered with a Parapet, parallel with the Ditch, and sometimes made with salient Angles in form of Ravelins; and if there be a Ravelin, then they are made on both sides thereof.

The Covered Way is to Flank, and defend the Campaign Horizontally to hinder the Eenemies approach, that it may cost them some pains and time before they become Masters of the Counter­scarp, and Ditch; the Besieged have their place of Arms, to make Assaults, and their Retreits in 20 case they be beat back. The Interior height of this Parapet is 6 Foot, and it falls sloping 50 Feet, or there abouts, till it lose it self in the Campaign. This sloping is called Glassis, or Es­planade.

This Parapet is ordinarily set on the Level of the Campaign; but seeing this height gives too great an advantage to the Enemy when he once becomes Master of it, therefore its better to take away 3 Feet from the height of the Cover­ed 30 Way, and set the Parapet so that it may be elevated no more than 3 Feet above the Level of the Campaign.

This is that part of the Fortifications of a Town that the Souldiers do commonly call the Counter­scarp; although Properly the Counterscarp is the Talii or Slope of the Covered Way next the Ditch, whose Base is equal to the depth of the Ditch▪ if it be not revetued, or Lined with Stone, or Brick.

CHAP. VI.
Of the Representation of Figures, and the Plat of any Fortified Town upon Paper, by way of 50 Perspective.

FOr describing of Forts and Towns there is a kind of Perspective, called by Engineers, Perspective Cavalier, that imagines the Eye at an infinite distance, that is, at such a distance that all equal heights in the Fort are seen under one Angle, whether further or nearer, and all 60 other heights proportionable, and all I [...]nes which would meet at the Eye are parallel, be­cause of the distance; as we say the Rays of the Sun falling upon a Burning-Glass are pa­rallel.

The other kind of Perspective, that designs by a principal Point, from whence all Parallels to that Principal do meet in that Point, being a very troublesom way, and does so confuse the Body of the Work, that unless one be very expert that way, he is not able to know what it means; although the Compleat Engineer ought to be skilled therein, as to represent a Body near at hand, or some Engine.

Draw the Lines of your Fort with White-Lines, or with any thing that will rub out, with all the Parapets, Ramperts, and Out-Works; then considering what Side you design towards you, whether the Curtain, or Point of the Bastion, or what other Point, draw a long Horizontal Line A, B, (Fig. 8. Plate 1.) having a Square of Brass, or Wood, run one side of it along the Line A, B, and at the extream Points of the Bastions, Flanks, and Shoulders, draw Perpendiculars towards the Line A, B, over all, omitting those that will cut the Rampert; or Parapet; because we cannot repre­sent the Interior height of the Rampert O, which is hid by the Exterior height, P; the Interior heights C, F, D, G, and E, H, of the Rampert are represented by setting on the Person diculars, ⅔ of the Flanks of the Fort, and joyning the Lines F, G, H, parallel to C, D, and E. For the height of the Walls, take what height you please; as suppose the ½ of the Flank, and set it on all the Perpendiculars, from all the Faces, Flanks, and Angles, and joyn them with Parallels to the Faces, Flanks, and Curtains, and finish all, as you see in the Figure of a Nonagone com­pleated.

The Angles that fall within the Body of a place, cannot serve to represent the Exterior Elevation of the Bastions; because the Exterior is hid by the Interior height of the Rampert and Parapet, as the height Z, Y, X, V, T, R, Q, P, on the Perpendiculars that fall from the Angles of the Counterscarp in the Ditch, set off ⅓ of the Flank, to represent the depth of the Ditch. And Note, That Lines drawn from the Angles of the Counterscarp that do not fall into the Ditch, cannot represent the deepness of it.

The Out-Works are represented after the same manner; only observe, that the Works next to the Town ought to be represented higher.

The Talii, or Slope of the Walls, may be set off from the Perpendiculars, that the Fort may be the more naturally represented.

Note, That in giving the Shadows to a Work, all Opaque, and Bodies not transparent, cast their Shadows always opposite to the side from whence the Day, or Light comes; or towards the Right-hand generally, when we design any thing on Paper.

CHAP. VII.
Of Irregular Fortification.

FRom Regular proceeds Irregular Fortification, or the fortifying such Figures as have not their Sides and Angles equal one to another, as [Page 182] the Forms of Towns to be fortified commonly are, by reason of the Irregularity of their Form, and Situations; and therefore are the harder to be fortified the more they differ from Regular, which is the perfect. And because it hapneth but seldom, that a Regular Fortification is newly raised, unless it be some small Field Forts, or Cittadels, by reason that every one is inclinable to preserve his own; therefore Irregular Fortifi­cation is more in use, and consequently necessary 10 to be exactly studied and known.

The same Laws and Maxims for Regular For­tification stand, and are in force in the Irregular, and serve for general Instructions, as occasion requires, to fortifie any place; and although they are not always to be precisely followed (for Time, Place, and Charge, may hinder) yet they ought to be observed as near as possible.

The greatest Art that is in Irregular Fortifi­cation consists chiefly in rectifying the Sides 20 of any Polygone that are too short, or too long; and in altering the Angles that are too little or too great, by either going inward or outward of the place to augment or lessen the Lines to such a Proportion, as that they may be capable to receive a strong defenceable Bastion, (that is, a Ba­stion according to the Maxims). The Angle of a Polygone less than 90 Degrees is not fit to set a Bastion on, because then the Point of the Bastion will become too sharp, the Flanks too 30 short, and the Faces too long.

But before any Judgment can be made, it is requisite that there be made a Map or Plat of the whole, with all the Ways, Passages, old Walls (if there be any Rivers, Pools, Enclosures) and all other things fit to be known in the Draught; and then there is to be designed what Works shall be thought most agreeing to the Place to be fortified; and according to the proportion of the Draught on Paper, the same is to be set 40 and raised on the Ground round the Town.

A Polygone, less than 45 Rods, is incapable to place a Royal Bastion on. And a Polygone longer than 65 Rods, is also too long; in such cases the Angle is either to be made greater, the short Lines longer, or the long Lines shorter, to the just proportion.

If therefore there be a Polygone of 50 Rods, and another of 60 Rods, then according to the fifth Paragraph of the Third Chapter, take ⅕ of 50 the Interior Polygone for the G [...]ge, ⅙ for the Flanks, and both these together for the Capital. Thus for a Polygone of 50 Rods, there is 10 Rods for the Gorge, 8 Rods 3 Feet for the Flanks, and 18 Rods 3 Feet for the Capital. For a Polygone of 60 Rods, there is by the same Rule 12 Rods for the Gorge, 10 for the Flanks, and 22 Rods for the Capitals.

Therefore divide the Angle of the Polygone into two equal parts, through the middle draw 60 a Line, on which set the Capitals, the one of 18 Rods 3 Feet, the other of 22 Rods; then draw from the Flanks of 10 Rods towards the Capital of 22 Rods, and so from the other Flank by his Capital, till you meet the Face of the other, and so you have an Irregular [...] ­stion.

Thus by considering the Overture or opening of the Angles, and the length of the Sides, you may fortifie any Figure in proportion, observing always the Rules and Maxims. As,

Suppose you find the Angle of a Polygone of 120 Degrees, consider to which in Regular Forti­fication it comes nearest; as in this Example, To a 12 Sided Figure, or Dodecagone; then accord­ing to the Rule of Proportion, If the Polygone of a 12 sided Figure of 64 Rods give the Demi­gorge of 14 Rods, the Flanks 12 Rods, and the Capital 24 Rods, 6 Feet, or ½ a Rod; how much will a Polygone of 50 Rods, and how much will a Polygone of 60 Rods give?

If a Line be very long, then it is to be forti­fied with a Plat Bastion in the middle of it, the proportion is a great Royal.

A Polygone of 133 Rods, may be fortified after this manner:

If it be less, viz. from 90 Rods to 130, then it is to be fortified according to the Rule of Propor­tion; if it be shorter than 90 Rods, the Plat Bastion will be too little, and therefore it is better to set on the two Angles of the Polygone two great Royal Bastions, and in the middle a Ravelin with Flanks.

The Angle of a Bastion less than 90 Degrees, is not well fortified with Demi-Bastions, seeing the Face is much exposed to the Fire of the Besiegers Batteries, and the Point too sharp; therefore the Angle is to be made greater, or if the place will permit, to Retrench it in Form of an Horn-Work.

Seeing there is so much varlety in Irregular Fortification, the young Engineer must practice by himself, by drawing several Plats of Irregular Places, and fortifying them; and because Exam­ples in this matter (as in other things) exceeds all Precepts, he may peruse the best Books he can find on this Subject, as Maralois, Dogen, and seve­ral others, where he will find infinite Cases and Examples, that will help him, and inform his Judgment for effecting his desire.

The raising the Ramperts and Parapets are the same as in Regular Fortification; and all or any of the before-mentioned Out-Works, may be placed before the Curtains, and made in proportion to them as occasion requires.

CHAP. VIII.
The Explication of the Second Plate.

A, is a Town environed with a Wall and Moat, which serves to cover and defend the Houses from the violence of the Enemy.

B, is the place of Arms where the main Guard is kept; or the place where the Souldiers of the Garison assemble at the time of Mounting the Guard, to know their Posts.

C, are the Market Places.

[Page]

The Scenography of a Town and Castle with all the usuall Outworks and the manner of carrying on a Siedge. Plate 2.

To the Right Noble George of Northumberland, Vis­of Pontefract, and noble order of the Fitz Roy, Duke and Earle count Falmouth, Baron Knight of the most Garter &c.a

This Plate is humbly dedicated by Richard Blome

[Page] [Page 183] D, and E, are the Houses, by which is meant not only private, but publick Houses, as Halls, Prisons, Churches &c.

I, is a Bastion or Bulwork.

L, are the Cazemats.

6, is an Orillon.

P, is a Retrenchment, or a Work the Besieged make behind the place attacqued, to keep the Enemy the longer off from being Masters of the Town. 10

7, are Fraises, or several pieces of Wood fixed in the Wall under the Cordon or upper Row of Stone or Brick in a Wall. In places that the Ramperts are not revetued, or lined with Stone, they are placed always at the Foot of the [...] Parapet; their use is, to hinder Desertion and Surprizes by Scaling.

M, is a Platform, or Earth thrown up along the Curtain, which serves to plant Great Guns on.20

N, is a Cavaleer, or a height sometimes of Earth, Stone, or Brick, raised in the middle of a Bastion, to plant some Pieces of Cannon on, to scour the Campaign to oblige the Enemy to be­gin their Trenches at a great distance from the Fort, and to make them the deeper.

O, is a Countermine, or sort of a Well the besieg­ed dig or make in their Ramperts; towards the bottom of them they make several little Allies branching under Ground, to discover the Enemies 30 Mines, and to give Vent to them when made and sprung.

S, is a Gwerit, which covers the Centinel from the Weather.

V, is a Port, with a Stone-Bridge. The Woo­den Bridges are esteemed the best, because as occasion requires they may be burnt down easily.

R, is a Draw-Bridge.

F, is a Cittadel.

G, is the Castle or Governours Lodging environ­ed 40 with a Moat; there is ordinarily on top of it a Tower, which discovers a great way into the Campaign, on which there is a Bell to sound Al­larum or Retreat, as there is occasion.

Z, is the Covered Way, or that which the Soul­diers ordinarily call the Counterscarp.

X, is the Glassis, or Esplanade.

Y, are the Trenches in which the Enemy under Covert approach the Fort.

H, are Batteries raised at every turning of the 50 Trenches, to dismount the Besiegers Cannon, and ruine their Walls.

1, is the Line of Contravallation to secure the Camp from Surprizes from the Town, by frequent Sallies, that the Besieged might make.

2, is the Line of Circumvallation, which is to hinder any Succor or Assistance to get into the Town, and to hinder the Souldiers desertion.

*, are Redoubts, Triangles, Squares, and other 60 Field-Works upon the Line, to Flank and De­fend it.

3, is the Ground and Tents of the Infantry.

4, are the Cavalries, Huts and Tents.

5, is the Artillery part, where the Cannon, and all Tools (and things ncessary for Service) are kept.

7, are Brushes, and Faggots, or Facines, which serve both to make Parapets of, and to fill the Ditch.

8, are Baskets full of Earth, which serve for Parapets, through which the Musqueteers Shoot.

9, is a Gallery, or a Frame of Wood, which serves to cover the Miners in passing the Ditch, or Moat.

10, is the Quarters for the Victuals.

11, are big Pieces of Wood to mend the Ways, to facilitate the Passage of the Artillery.

12, are Crow-foots, Calthrops, or Four-pointed Irons, one Point being always upper­most, to strow on the Ground to hinder the Cavalry to pass, gauling or pricking their Feet.

13, Horse de Freese, is used instead of a Gate; it is sometimes called a Turn-Pike.

14, are Piles, or Pallisadoes made of Spars, plated or shod with Iron at the Points, having two or three Nails droven through them: They are set in two or three Rows, the lowest Breast-high, and every Row higher; so deep, as they may not be pulled up. They are planted on the top of a Breach, or on some Pass on a sud­den.

15, is a Barricade, to plant on a Pass, or on the top of a Breach.

CHAP. IX.
Of Besieging Towns.

WHen a General does intend to Besiege a Town or Fort, he first sends to Invest it, with a Body of Horse, Commanded by a Lieu­tenant General, and a Camp-Marishal, that no succour may go in whilst he marches with the rest of his Army to it; and to that end they take care to stop all the Ways, Passage, and Intelligence that may be sent either in or out, of the Town. This is called the Blocking up the Town.

When the Army is come before the Town, if it be Situated on a River, there must be made a De­tachment of some part of the Army, and send them of the other side of the River, to take up their Quarters, having Bridges of Communica­tion laid over, and Redoubts made to defend them, in which there must be put a strong Guard of Foot.

If the place be surrounded with Hills, then the General possesses himself of the heights of them.

As soon as the place is Blocked up, and Conse­quently the rest of the Army, Baggage, Provisi­ons, Ammunition of War, and the Artillery are a­rived, and the General hath formed out his Camp for the Army, which in a Siege always Incamps with theirs Backs to the Town, having Squadrons of Horse betwixt each Battalion; then the Engineers mark out the Line of Contravallation, called breaking of Ground, which is to be chosen [Page 184] beyond Musket-Shot, or Falcon from the Town, under which the Cavalry may securly lodge.

This Line is carried round about the Town, if the Garison be very strong, and full of Men; else on one part.

If the Enemy have Armies near, and that its thought they will endeavour to raise the Siege, be­fore the Town can be taken, then the Enginers mark out another Line, further into the Cam­paign, whis is called the Line of Circumvallation. 10 This Line is carried round about Inclosing Ground enough for all the Army to lodge in. The Quar­ters of the General, and other chief Commanders, are to be placed round about, so as one may re­lieve another conveniently.

Upon this Line, within Musket Shot one from another, are to be placed Redoubts, Triangles, Long Squares, and other Fields-Works; each Regi­ment is to Work at them before their own Camp. Their Ramperts are generally some 8 or 10 Foot 20 thick, 6 Foot high, with a Foot-bank, to mount upon the Parapets. The outward height 5 Foot, the Ditch cast about them 10 or 12 Foot broad, and 4, 5 or 6 Foot deep, altho the proportions are to be made all ways according to the danger the Enemy may put the Army unto.

The next thing to do, is opening of the Trenches, that is, beginning the Lines of Ap­proaches towards the Town, at about 1200 Foot from it. To this end the Colonel, or Commander 30 of the Infantry, (whose business is to open them, ought early in the Morning to visit the General, or more particularly the Lieutenant-General, if he be appointed for this Action, and it were necessary he had well reviewed the place himself, before he comes to discourse with those that know it. [...]hen the Regiments make their Detachments, [...] are to furnish such number of Workmen that [...] requireth; and besides their ordinary [...] take along with them Spades, 40 [...], and other Materials necessary [...] The Egineer is to shew and inform [...] how they are to run their Line, [...] [...]raws out to them as necessity requires, [...] diverse lengths, but most commonly [...] 40 Rods long, or sometimes shorter [...], and broken and turned as often as is [...].

[...] the Workmen may begin with the more [...] where the Line begins (which is with a 50 [...] place of Arms) there is to be built a Redoubt [...] Battery with Guns, and there are covered from [...] Enemies Cannon, by two great Espaulments well Flanked, several Guards of Foot and Horse, standing near to defend them, if the Besieged should Sally out. The Line being laid out and marked, which is to be carried on Obliquely, so that no Shot can be made out of any Work of the Town, that may scour that Line, the Engineers are to divide and place the Workmen, in order 60 that one may not hinder another.

Now they give to every Man, the length of 4 or 5 Foot, and every one maketh as much hast a possible to get into the Ground, for the avoiding of the danger whereunto he is exposed while he stands upon the open Field. To this end the Earth which he diggeth, he casteth up before him, and he is to dig the Hole so deep, that with the Earth thrown up he may be under Covert, which will be when he digs three Feet into the Ground, the Earth thrown up making other three above the Ground, or 6 Foot in all.

The Workmen being thus got into the Ground, they enlarge and deepen the Trenches, as necessity requires; as when they come nearer to a Fortress, they are to be made deeper. The breadth or width of them may be 12 or 14 Foot at the Top, and 6, 8 or 10 Foot at the Bottom, with Foot-banks for the conveniency of Musquet­teers; sometimes one is constrained to make them larger, in regard Wagons may be driven through them, with Materials necessary for the Gallery; and also Cannon must be drawn down and mount­ed on the Batteries. But it is always to be ob­served, by how much larger the Approaches are made, by so much ought, the Parapet of the Trench to be hightend, that the Enemy may not discover the Souldiers that are in them; especially one ought to heighten those Points, and Wind­ings where the Line turns; and when it cannot be conveniently done, the Souldiers are to take great Facines, and cover the place that is seen with them.

The Trenches are to be relieved every 24 Hours; and in short, are to be ordered with great care.

If the Ground be Rocky, Moorish or Marshy with Bogs, where one cannot dig, then there is a Foun­dation made with Sinkers, that is, Bundles of Boughs fastned together, upon which Earth is cast. Upon this Foundation there are Traver­ses and Gabions, which are described in the last Chapter. These Gabions are used also in stony Ground, where one cannot dig the Earth, because of Stones.

As the Trench advances, there are at the Wind­ings and turnings, Batteries to be made about 10, 12 or 16 Foot high, the Breast-Works made with Gabions, or Sacks of Earth, and Cannon-bas­kets; these Batteries are to shoot into the Town, to beat down the Houses and terrify the Burgers, and to play continually Day and Night. Or Batteries may be made on any Hill, or rising Ground to this effect.

There must be a good Line of Communication, betwixt the two, or more Approaches; when they are once advanced to the Foot of the Glassis take in and fortify the Ground betwixt the At­taques, by which means the Enemy coming to sally out, will find themselves betwixt two Firings.

In the carrying on the Lines of Approaches and Batteries, the Engineers must be sure to be provi­ded of Pallisadoes de Camp, and Piles of 6 Foot, Turn-Pikes, Horse de Freez, Barricadoes or a Fence made of Pallisadoes, Thousands of Crow-Feet, or Carthrops to hinder the March of Horse, together with good store of Planks and Timber ready.

The nearer the Approaches advance to the Fortress, and the more Souldiers are exposed to danger, their Pay is encreased every Day; sometimes they have half a Crown a Night, and sometime a Crown for an Hours work, if their Post be Dangerous.

Every Morning as soon as Day begins to break, the Lieutenant General, or Marshal de Camp, orders [Page 185] the Soldiers too low to the Trenches, and there take their places, to Fire continually, and hin­der the Enemy from shewing their Heads above the Works, whilst the Cannon from the Batteries are beating down the Parapets, and levelling the Works; the Batteries to this end are advanced as the Attaques advance, and the best place for them is betwixt the two Attaques; for by this means one disposes them in such a manner, that he is Master of the Firings of the two Flanks, of 10 the two opposite Bastions.

When the Approaches are advanced to the Counterscarp, along the Breast-work of it, there is to be made a great Lodgment, in the middle of which, there is a Descent cut into the Ditch, which is called the Sap; When it is brought to the Ditch or Moat, there must be good store of Pio­neers employed to run Earth in Wheel-Bar­rows Night and Day to fill up the Ditch, and as soon as it is dark the Horse of the Army; but those 20 that are upon the Guards to carry Facins to the Tail of the Trenches, to be cast into the Moat, to fill it up even to that place where the Mine is to be made; for in so doing, the Ditch will be fil­led up by degrees, and there will be a good Foun­dation for the Gallery to rest upon; the Pioneers fetch in their Wheel-Barrows good store of Earth, upon Planks laid in the Gallery, and bring it to the Mouth thereof, casting it upon a heap, and some Workmen appointed to work in 30 the Mouth of the Gallery, cast it into the Moat, to settle the Facins and Fagots.

This Earth thus cast up, serves to cover and make Blinds for the Workmen, which they use to make at the Mouth of the Sap, and continue so doing till they bring the Gallery to the Face of Bastion. The Blinds are to be raised on that side which respects the Enemies Curtain, and opposite Flank.

To bring on the Gallery, first, there is made 40 two Frames of Timber, some 8 or 10 foot wide, and about 9 in height, in form of a Gallows; the Timber may be 6 or 8 Inches thick, and the side opposite to the Enemies Flank, ought to be double planked. These Frames ought to stand 6 or 7 foot from one another, and so one after another, till the Gallery reach to the Foot of the Basti­on.

The Gallery is to be covered at the Top with Earth a Foot thick, to hinder Fireworks from 50 burning it; there are little Windows made in the Gallery, betwixt every 3 or 4 Frames to give the Workmen light.

When the Gallery is thus brought to the Face of the Bastion; The next thing is to make a Mine, which is to be done by Miners, who are to have Pick-Axes and all kind of Masons Tools, with all things requisite to pierce and break the Wall. The height of the Mine is about 4 or 4 ½ foot high at the most, the breadth about 3 ½ foot, accor­ding 60 to which Measures the Props and Planks are framed, wherewith the Mine is underproped. The Earth that is taken out of the Mine under a Rampert or Bastion, is to be carried away in a Ves­sel, or Pail of Leather, which is light in handing it one to another, till it be brought out of the Hole or entrance of the Mine, and laid in the Gallery, to the end the Enemy may not see it, and gess whereabouts the Mine is.

The Mine is wrought on by several Turns; to prevent the Blast of Powder coming forewards, sometimes the Master Miner makes use of a Com­pass, and Conduct his Mine by the help of the Needle, that he may carry it right, and always the nearer he comes to the place where the Cham­ber is to be, the narrower he makes the way of the Mine, in such sort, that it be no broader or higher at the entrance into the Chamber, than a Barrel of Powder may scarcely pass into it, for by this means the Mine is easier stopt.

The bigness of the Chamber is made according to the greatness and proportion of the Wall and Rampert. The common Opinion is, that a Bar­rel of Powder will blow up 12 foot of Earth; the Barrels are to be laid in such order, that in an in­stant they may all take Fire together. The Cham­ber may be made 10 or 12 foot wide, and about 5 foot high; The Earth is to be blown up either into the Fortress, or else without, by making that side which is to be blown up, not so thick as the other. Thus having made the Mine, place the Powder herein, and close up the Mouth of it; which must be carefully done, putting cross Timbers in every Return; and at the entrance stop it with thick and strong Planks, rammed in with Earth, leaving a Trunk or hollow Pipe all the way filled with Powder, and carried to the end of the Mine, at the Wall where the Passage is to be well stopped, since the stronger a Mine is stopt, it takes the better effect; then fire it as soon as conveniently may be, lest the Powder take harm by too much moisture; after which follows the Assault, and seconding the Mine, if the Breach be made consi­derable.

CHAP. X.
Of defending a Town or Fort.

IT is a certain Rule, That where there is an Of­fensive War, there is also a Defensive; and therefore as soon as the Governor of any Fort gets notice of an Army coming before it to Be­siege the place; and before they form their Blo­cus, or Block it up, he sends the Gunners to the Batteries, with orders to shoot several Cannon, to inform the Country Round, and give the Signal of re­treat, that they may come in with all the Provi­sions they can find about the place; And also by making several Shot, keep off the Light-Hors­men and Spies that they approach not so neer, as to view the Works of the Fort; and also to fa­vour the Foot and Horse, who ought every day to make a Sally, to shew that the Garison is strong, and in good Heart: The Infantry must not go be­yond Musket Shot; but the Cavalry ought every day from the opening of the Trenches to sally in small Squadrons to draw the Army near, that it may lay open to the Cannoneers, who may make some good Shot, and cut off some of the Principal Officers.

[Page 186] If the Garison be but weak, then the Gover­nor is to manage it to the best Advantage; and is not obstinately to defend the Out-Works, but rather to look to the defence of the Ditch, and the Body of the place, that the Flanks be well furnished with Cannon, and as soon as he per­ceives the Attaques of the Enemy, is to Coun­termine the Flanked Angles of the Out-Works, and to blow them up, at such time as he is forced to quit them; and after having Retrenched 10 the Bastions after a considerable Breach, all that he can do, is upon the most Honourable Terms to make Capitulations, as to March out with Arms and Baggage, Drums Beating, Trumpets Sounding, Colours and Standards Flying, Matches lighted at both ends, Bullets in their Mouths, with some Pieces of Cannon and Mortars, and Am­munition necessary, the Besiegers furnishing them with Wagons, Horses, and every thing necessary for their March. But if the Garison be considerable 20 strong, it is to be Governed quite in another manner.

The Governor is to husband the Provisions well, and defend boldly the Out-Works, and to Counter-Mine round about them, as the Enemy shall At­tack, and to Retrench them, and also to make Retrenchments, and Barricadoes all along the Co­vered Way; that he may lose all things piece by piece, and to quit nothing but by main force.

After the Governor is Advertised, by small parties he sends out, what part the Enemy will 30 Attack, he is always to Anoy them by continu­al small Sallies of the stoutest Souldiers two by two, and three by three, who are to Fire upon the Pioneers, by creeping into the Field unper­ceived, and not to give them rest or let the Tren­ches be quiet, and afterwards to Retreat into the Counterscarp; and in the mean time the Governor is to have the Souldiers in readiness, to give Fire as soon as the Party is returned, by which common­ly many Officers are killed that do advance; to 40 this end the Out-Works are to be well furnished with men, to keep continually Firing; and to render them the more able, they are to be relieved twice a Day, and twice a Night.

It is very ordinary to the Garison, to make a great and brisk Sally about Sun-Rising, or break of Day, after a Stormy or Rainy Night, as opportunity admits; and to carry along with them a quantity of Nails to cloy the Guns, Pick-Axes, Spades and Shovels to throw down their Lodgment, some Gra­ [...]adiers, 50 and Musquetoons, to make a considera­ble Assault, and to throw down their Works in such manner, that the Enemy coming to regain Ground, may say open to the Shot from the Out-Works, which ought especially then to be well furnished with men▪ and in Readiness to make a continual Fi­ring, to favour the Retreat of the Sally; and so by this means the Enemy shall not gain a Foot of Ground but at a very dear rate, and lose much of his time before he be able to gain any of the Out-Works. 60 The Out-Works ought to be Mined and Retrenched, and the M [...]nes Fired when the Enemy makes a Lodgement on them, and the Garison forced to re­tire to their Retrenchments.

The Retrenchments turn to account when their Ditch is 12 feet broad at top, and 6 feet at the bottom, and 8 feet deep; and the Earth that comes out of the Ditch makes a good Parapet. All these Retrenchments and Cuttings of are to lye open towards the Town, or Fortress with this Proviso also, that they be not made so high, but that the main Works may overlook and command them.

When the Garrison is forced to quit their last Retrenchments on the Out-Works, and Retreat into the Town, the Governour is to have the Flanks well furnish'd with Cannon, which may beat upon the Flanked Angles, and scour the Ditch: for there is nothing makes greater slaughter, o [...] with greater ease hinders Vndermining than this and it is almost impossible for the Enemy to make any Lodgment, or set any Miners at work upon the Body of the place; and being not able to make a Breach, but by their Cannon, it is soon repaired with Pallisadoes, and the Bastion cut off and Retrenched with Mines prepared under the Breach, and the Batteries made firm before they can Storm; and for some Days they cannot make any Lodgment, notwithstanding they have won the flanked Angles, and made a considerable Breach, even to the Foot of the Bastion, yet they cannot maintain it but with great loss; neither can they avoid the Granadoes, and Fire-Works, that will be continually cast upon them, and so forced to approach by Sap, which may be with all facility imaginable Rencountered.

If the Enemy by dismounting the Guns on the Flanks and Batteries, with their Counter-Batteries approach to the Foot of the Bastion, and set their Miners at work, and prepare their Mines; then the Governour is diligently to search out the Enemies Mines, and being assured of the place where they are hid, and a working, which may be done by setting a Drum in the place suspected, with some Dice, or Pease upon the Head of it, which with any stirring will leap upon the Drum, when it stands over the place where the Miners are at work.

After the place is thus found out, nothing re­mains but to make a Countermine against them, which is made after the same manner, as a Mine, described in the last Chapter. Now, because one is not sure to meet just with the Enemies Mine, which may be made either too high, or too low; therefore there are several Mines to be made, till by one of them the Enemies Mine is found out, and so take away their Powder out of the Chamber.

When an Enemies Mine is carried so secret, and hidden, that one cannot find it out; then the Garrison must of necessity resolve to quit that part of the Rampert, or Bastion, under which they suspect there is a Mine, and so Retrench and Cut it off inwardly; but for their advantage they must make ready also their Counter-Mines made in that place, and Chamber their Powder, attending the effect of the Enemies Mine; and when they spring it, they must retire themselves into their new Work cut off, or Retrenchment; and the Enemy being Lodged on that part of the Rampert, or Bastion, which they have quitted, then the Counter-Mine is to be blown up. The like is also done in Out-Works, and on the Coun­terscarp, when one is driven to quit them.

CHAP. XI.
Of GVNNERY.

THe General things to be known in the Art of Gunnery, next after the Names and Parts of a Piece of Ordnance (which you may 10 here learn from the Figure of the Gun) in order to Shoot securely, and make a good Shot, are, First, That the Piece be well Tertiated, or squa­red upon its Carriage, and to know duly to Load and Level the Piece.

Ca [...]cabal.

Base-Ring.

Touch-Hole.

Chamber.

Ranforcing-Ring.

Trunion-Ring.

Cornish-Ring.

Muzzle-Ring.

Concave Cylinder.20

To Tertiate a Piece, is to know if it has its 30 due thickness of Metal at the Touch-hole, Tru­nions, and Neck; by which you may judge at the strength of the Gun, whether well fortified, or no. This you do with a Coliper pair of Com­passes; and if the Piece be Home boared, the Diameter less by the height divided by 2, is the thickness at any place.

To Quadrate, or Square a Piece mounted, is to see if it is directly placed, and equally poised,40 which depends on the Carriage, in regard of the Wheels and Axel-Tree.

To Dispart a Piece of Ordnance, is to set such a mark upon the Muzzle-Ring, or thereabouts, that the visual Ray, or Sight-Line, taken upon the Top of the Base-Ring against the Touch-hole, by the Mark set at, or near the Muzzle-Ring, may be parallel to the Axis of the Concave Cylinder. To do this, take the Diameters of the Base-Ring, and the place at the Muzzle where you intend 50 the Dispart to stand; divide the difference of these two into two equal parts, one of them will be the Dispart, which you may set upon the Gun with Pitch, or Wax. If you have not Compasses, measure the Circles about, and work with them.

The Weights of Shot are regulated by the Cubes of the Diameters, and by knowing the weight of one, the weight of any other is found, thus:60

A Bullet of Iron of 4 Inches Diameter is found by Experience to weigh 9 lb. then say, as the Cube of 4 is to 9 lb. so is any other Diameter Cubed to its weight; or as 9 lb. is to the Cube of 4, so is any other weight to the Cube Root of its Diameter. Lead and Iron in weight is as 2 to 3, that is, a Shot of 2 lb. of Iron, and a Shot of 3 lb. of Lead, will have the same Diameter of height. Iron to Stone is as 3 to 8; Lead to Stone, as 4 to 1; that is, a Bullet of Stone of 10 lb. is equal in height to a Bullet of Lead of 40 lb. Therefore knowing what a Bullet of Iron of any Diameter weighs, you will find the weight of a Bullet of the same Diameter of Lead, and Stone; for Lead having the weight of 9 lb. of Iron for 4 Inches Diameter. If 3 give 2, what will 9 lb. give? Answer 6; and so of any other. As the Shot is regulated by the Cubes of the Diameters, so also is the Powder. Suppose 1 lb. ½ of Powder be a Charge for a Falcon of 2: 68 Bore of Diameter; what weight in Powder will be fit for a Charge of a Cannon of 7? The proportion is thus: As the Cube of 2: 68 is to 1 lb. ½ of Powder, so is the Cube of 7 to 26.

The Names of the Pieces of Ordnance, which are taken from the height of the Bore, are set down in the following Table, which gives in the first Column the Names of the Pieces; next, the weight of Fortified Guns; the third, the height of the Bore; the fourth, the height of the Shot; the fifth, the weight of the Shot; the sixth, Powder for Proof; the seventh, Powder for Ser­vice; the eighth, Paces (five Foot to a Pace) the Piece shoots Point-Blank, or upon the Level; the ninth, the outmost Random, the Piece mount­ed to 45 Degrees; the tenth, the Horses; and the eleventh, the Men required to draw a Piece of Ordnance.

Names.Guns weight.Height Bore.Height Shot.Weight of Shot.Powder for Proof.Powder for Service▪Paces Point-Blank.Utmost Random.Horses to Draw.Men to Draw.
 C.  lb.lb.lb.    
Can. 8.7087. 75632823180180018100
Can. 7.60476. 7542241818018001680
Dem. C.5046. 36. 0532201518018001260
24 lb.4045. 875. 6224171118018101050
Culv.405. 325. 071814101841840850
12 lb.354. 464. 641210. 581781780640
Dem. C.304. 254. 039971751750635
Saker.203. 583. 405 1/45. 2541601600425
Minion.123. 353. 184431201200316
Falcon.52. 682. 542 1/22151201200210

As to the several Shootings in Artillery, and the knowledg of the true Distance that any piece will carry to, is a matter that depends upon many uncertainties, there being such varieties in the trueness of the Bore, in the heights of the Shot, in the strength of the Powder, in the Disparts, in the Levelling, and Direction, in the Air, Wind, &c.

The Ball, when it is Shot, flies through the Air with a violent, mixt and natural Motion, describing a Parabolical Line, in whose beginning, and end are Lines sensibly streight, and in the middle, Curved. The Shootings, or Shots in Artillery, are therefore three; The first is called Point-Blank, which is [Page 188] that Space, that the Ball flies in a Line sensibly right without any inclination; The second is called the Mean, which comprehends all that Space the shot flies in a Curved Line; The third is called the Dead-Shot, which is the fall of the Ball by a sensible right Line towards the Ground, after that the violence is ceased.

Gunners do take notice of these three differ­ences, and Ranges of Shot, for three several ends. The Shots of Point-Blank serve to Batter the 10 Ramperts and Walls of Forts, and Castles; the Mean, or Middle Range to molest afar off the Troops in the Campaign, and in their Quarters, and to ruine the Houses within the Cities, and Castles, &c. The Dead-Shots serve for Mortars to shoot Bombs, and other Artificial Fire upon the Enemy, especially when they cannot be other­wise offended, nor seen; being covered behind with Ramperts, Trenches, Hills, and other Emi­nencies. 20

A shot Point-Blank, which is the most ordina­ry and most Important, is distinguished, in re­gard of the Horizon, and in regard of the Ob­ject which it strikes. As to the Horizon they are of three sorts, First, Level; Secondly from Low to High; Thirdly, from High to Low, called Vnder Metal.

The Horizontal, and by the Level of the Chase, or Concave Cylinder is the most secure, and certain.30

That from Low to High, proves fallacious, because by the Recoyling which the Piece makes, the Shot flies higher than the Mark; and that from High to Low is most fallacious, because the Shot (besides other notable effects) comes more Low by the Recoyling of the Piece. There­fore an experienced Gunner must remedy these faults by taking the due advantages in Shooting.

As to the Object, a Shot Point-Blank is made either at right Angles against the Superficies of 40 the Object, or at oblique Angles. At right Angles it strikes more furiously than at oblique; therefore it is used against strong Walls, to batter them; and are used to make Batteries of several Tire, and discharging them against the self-same Mark, and in the same instant. At oblique An­gles they strike either Cross-ways, or Rebound­ing, like a Tennis-Ball. If they strike Cross-ways, with two Batteries one upon each side of the Ob­ject, it ruines more speedily the Defence either 50 of Earth, or Wall; if they batter Obliquely, or by a Rebound, which is done when they cannot do it right forward: As if one would batter a Flank covered with an Orillon, or Shoulder, one must strike the Curtain in so fit a place, and ob­liquely, that by the Rebound the Shot may leap into the Flank; holding it for a Maxim in this Operation, That the Angle of Incidence is equal to the Angle of Reflection.

The Mean or middle Ranges are diverse, ac­cording 60 to the different Elevations of Ordnance; the Elevations are regulated by the Gunners Square, which is an Instrument made of Brass or Wood▪ of two right Lines (See Fig. 10 Plate 1) one longer than the other, both which make a right Angle, from which as from the Center is described an Arch divided into 90 Degrees, or into 12 equal Parts, called Points; so much of the Arch as exceedeth a Quadrant, as 45 Degrees, or 6 Points, serves for shooting below the Hori­zon, as the Quadrant doth for above. From the Center hangs a Thread with a Plumet, the longest Leg put into the Chase, or Concave Cylinders of of a Piece of Ordnance, the Thread cutting the Arch, doth shew the Degrees of Elevation, or Depression, one never exceeds 6 Points, or 95 Degrees of Elevation in shooting with long Can­non.

The Dead-Shot which is made with Mortars, is done by giving Elevation from the Points 6, or 95 Degrees, to the Point 12, or 90 Degrees, which are measured with the Square, or with a particular Instrument like a Level, putting a Staff across the mouth of the Mortar, and upon that the Quadrant.

In Shooting in these its observed, that at the sixth Point is the farthest off, and that at the seventh Point comes the nearest, and at the eighth Point nearer; and so nearer and nearer to the twelfth Point, in which the Bomb falls in the same place from which it departed.

Of Shots made out of Mortars, betwixt the Middle or Mean-Shot, and the Dead-Shot, it is to be observed by Experience, those are equal which are equally removed from the sixth Point of the Quadrant, viz. that the Bomb fall as far distant, being shot from the same Piece, and with the same strength at the fifth as at the seventh Point, and the same thing at the fourth as at the eighth, and as much at the third as at the ninth, and second as the tenth.

Shots from Mortar-Pieces are very fallacious, sometimes flying farther, somtimes shorter than needs, and the Bombs break in the Air; some­times after the fall they do not break, which gives time to the Enemy to retire, or to Choak it; therefore to have a just Blow, and to take effect, these following Advertisements must be observed.

First, One ought to know how many Paces are to the place which you would shoot, which may be done with an Instrument.

Secondly, That the Bombs, or other Bodies, which are to be Shot, be of equal weight, other­wise the Shots will vary.

Thirdly, That the Carriage in breadth be al­ways upon a Level, and without any Descent, that it do not leap in Discharging.

Fourthly, That the Powder with which the Mortar is loaded, be always of the same force and weight.

Fifthly, That the Charge of the Mortar, as well in Powder as in Wadding, be always ramm'd in with Blows equally heavy, and of equal number.

Sixthly, That the Fusees be newly made in those days they are to be used, and that they be made of a mixture proportionable to the Range the Shot shall make in the Air, and that it break in the very Fall; which Skill is in the Fusee filled with mixture of Composition, which is to be such, that although the Bomb fall in the Water, it ought to break.

[Page 189] To measure a just Time, is done by filling the Fusee after the ordinary manner; take a small Barrel or Cane of Iron of equal Bore to that of the Fusee, but something longer, with many little Holes all along its length, and filling it in the same manner as the Fusee, then the Bomb being fitted in the Mortar, you give Fire at the same time to the Fusee in the Mortar and the Iron-Barrel, letting the Barrel burn until you see the Bomb break, in which moment, you 10 observe the Barrel, and to what Hole the Fire burns down, which will give an assured mark of the time the Fusee ought to have.

If the Bomb in the very Fall shall break, the same quantity of Composition should be continued in the Fusee, but if it break before the Fall you must abate the Heat, by adding a small mixture of Charcoal-Dust incorporated in the same Composition; and if after its Fall it shall delay its effect, then you shall joyn with its mixture a little fine Powder-Dust, and so you may by Experience with this Barrel observe in­to what Mark or Hole it burns, so that with such Fusees the Bomb shall justly break in the very Fall amongst the Enemies, observing al­ways to fill the Barrel with the same mix­ture.

MUSICK.

MVsick is the Art of making Harmony, either by Voice or Instrument; Or, (which is the same thing) the Art of well Singing, or playing on Musical Instruments. The first is called Vocal, the other Instrumental Musick, and consists both of Sounds.

A Sound is that which affects the Ear, of which there are two Sorts, Simple and Compound; The Simple is considered by it self.

There are 20 Simple, or Single Sounds mentio­ned 10 by Musicians, from Gam-ut to E-la, and all contained in the Gam-ut; which is called the Scale, invented by one Guido Aratin an Italian, the bet­ter to learn to Sing and Play well: The Enume­ration of which Simple Sounds take as follow­eth.

The first, Gam-ut; second, A-re; third, B-mi; fourth, C-fa-ut; fifth, D-sol-re; sixth, E-la-mi; se­venth, F-fa-ut; eighth, G-sol-re; ninth, A-la-mi­re; tenth, B-fa-B-mi; eleventh, C-sol-fa-ut; 20 twelfth, D-la-sol-re; thirteenth, E-la-mi; four­teenth, F-fa-ut; fifteenth, G-sol-re-ut; sixteenth, A-la-mi-re; seventeenth; B-fa-B-mi; eighteenth, C-sol-fa; nineteenth; D-la-sol; twentieth, E-la.

Of which Simple Sounds, first are to be con­sidered the Accidents, and then their Divisi­on.

Their Accidents are Musical Time, or Measure.

Time in Musick is a quantity which either length­ens, or shortens the Sound. 30

The Musical Time to express the Sound, is known by eight Characters, viz. A Large, A Long, A Breve, A Semibreve, A Minim, [...] Crochet, A Quaver, and A Semiquaver.

But the time to suppress the Sound is different, that is, in several sorts of Rests or Pauses, lon­ger and shorter.

Musical Measure, is that by which the aforesaid Simple Sounds are Measured.

There are two sorts of Measure in Musick; the 40 one Spondaick, and called by the Modern Musici­ans Imperfect or D [...]ple, the other Trochaick, which they call Perfect, or Triple.

Secondly, these Simple Sounds are divided into seven Hexachords, vulgarly called Cleffs.

An Hexachord is a Deduction, or Conduct of six Voyces, as Vt, Re, Mi, Fa, Sol, La.

The three first of which Cleffs that have G for their Character, are rough and harsh, and called Tunes of B. Sharp. 50

The two others, whose Characters are F, are soft and sweet, and are called Tunes of B Flat.

But the other two, whose Character is C, are the mean and between both, and are called Tunes of a natural Key.

It often happens in these Cleffs, that the Na­tural Song is changed into B Flat, or into the con­trary: But Tunes in B Sharp, are never changed into B Flat, nor those in B Flat into B Sharp.

The Compound Sound is that which is compound­ed, and repeated with another.

The Composition of Sounds is called in Musick Interval, that is to say, Musical Concord, as well of the Voice, as on Instruments; of which some are Principal Chiefs, the others, effects of the Chiefs.

There are three Chiefs, viz. a Tone, a Semy-Tone, and a Diesis: And 4 Effects of the Chiefs, as Diatessaron, Diapente, Diapason, and double Di­apason.

A Tone is an Interval of Musick, composed of two half Tones, and proceeding from a Sesquioctave ration.

Musicians call it the second perfect; for Exam­ple; If when two Sing, one sings Vt, and the other Re, this Composition of Sounds is called a Tone.

A Demi Tone is the Moity of a Tone, or of a Sesquioctave.

A Tone can't be divided by Numbers into two equal parts, but only into unequal; for when you have divided a Tone into two parts, you shall have two Demi Tones: That which is the sharp of the two, is called the Demi Tone Ma­jor, or greater, and is seldom in use; the other which is flat, is called the Minor, or less Demi Tone, and is only in use, and called the second Imperfect, which is made from Mi to Fa.

A Diesis or Perfation, (called by Boetius a les­ser Demi Tone) is the smallest of the Intervals, that is to say, the fourth part of a Tone, or a Sesquioctave.

A Diatessaron is a soft imperfect fourth, which is frequently used, as from Vt to Fa; It contains two Tones, and a less Demi Tone.

A Diapente is called a fifth, which is a very sweet and frequent Interval; It contains three Tones, and one less Demi Tone.

A Diapason is a most perfect Interval; and very much in use, and consists of eight Sounds, and is called an Octave; It contains five Tones, and two less Demi Tones.

A Double Diapason is the fifteenth, or a double Octave, and so two Octaves make one intire Bo­dy of Concords, viz. the greatest System and Inter­val [Page]

To the Hon•ble: Sr. Iohn Revers [...]y of Thribergh in ye West Riding of Yorkshire Baronet, Governour of ye. City of York, and Burlington

This plate is h [...]bly dedicated by Ri▪ Blome

[Page] [Page 191] in Musick, which is so vulgarly called, as a little before, so as well here below, that is to say, twice through all the Sounds and essential Chords, A, B, C, D, E, F, G.

Besides this Tract of Musick, which is adapted to the Eliptical Table, 'tis thought fit to add this following Discourse, as recommended from a person very knowing in the said Art, where he saith, That the two chief parts of Musick are Composition and Modulation. 10

Composition is the setting together of several Mu­sical Notes, into a Tune of several Parts, into a Consort fit to be Sung or Played.

There chiefly belongs to Composition the Know­ledge of the Chords, of the Moods, and of the se­veral parts which make up a Musick Consort.

In all the seven Notes, (for there are in nature but seven distinct Sounds, however repeated in dif­ferent Keys) an eighth, being but an Vnion to the first, a ninth to the second, a tenth to the third,20 an eleventh to the fourth, a twelfth to the fifth, a thirteenth to the sixth, a four­teenth to the seventh; So likewise in a higher Key, a fifteenth to the eighth, a sixteenth to the ninth, and so of the rest. In all the se­ven Notes (for an eighth is but the first of another Septenary; and every Note whatsoever is a First, or Vnion in Reference to its Octave) there are five Concords and two Discords; of the five Concords, three are perfect Chords, and two Imperfect. 30

The three Perfect are an Octave, called by the Greeks Diapason, that is, from A-re the Proslam­banomenos to Alamire the Mese of the Greeks; A fifth called Diapente, that is, from B-mi the Hy­pate Hypaton, to F-fa-ut the Parhypate Meson of the Greeks; and a fourth called Diatesseron, that is, from D-sol-re the Lichanos-Hypaton to G-sol-re-ut the Lichanos-Meson of the Greeks.

The two Imperfect are a third called by the Greeks Ditonum, that is, from C-fa-ut the Parhy­pate-Hypaton 40 to E-la-mi, the Hypate-Meson of the Greeks; A sixth called Hexachordon, that is, from F, fa-ut the Parhypate-Meson to D-sol-re, above the Nete Synemenon of the Greeks.

The two Discords are a second, otherwise cal­led a whole Tone, that is, from C-sol-fa-ut, the Paranete-Synemenon to D-sol re, the Nete-Synemenon of the Greeks; and a seventh called Hepta­chordon, that is, from D-la-sol-re, the Nete­Synemenon to G-sol-re-ut, in the higher Key to the 50 Paranete-Hypaton of the Greeks.

The most usual Moods of the Greeks (for Ali­pius names fifteen.) were five, the Dorick, the Lydian, the Aeolick, the Phrygian, and the Ionick. What the use and nature of these Greek Moods was, is not certainly determined, even by the most diligent Inquirers into the Musick of the Ancients; only thus much is generally noted, That the Dorick is the most grave and solid, the Lydian the most sprightly, and what we now-adays 60 generally call Air.

There are reckoned amongst the Moderns four Moods; two great, the Perfect of the More, and the Imperfect of the Less: But of these the two last alone are chiefly in use.

The Imperfect of the More is, when three Minims go to a Semi-brief, with a Prick of Per­fection▪ this is called Triple-time, and hath usu­ally this Mark c.3.

The Imperfect of the Less hath as the former, two Longs to a Large, two Breves to a Long, and two Semi-breves to a Breve; but in this it dif­fers, that it hath also but two Minims to a Semi-brief, &c. and this is called Time, and thus marked [...]

The Parts of Musical Consort.

THere are indeed in Musical Consort but three Material Parts, viz. Treble, Mean, and Base; but our Musicians commonly make four Parts, viz. the Supremus, or Cantus, that is the Treble; the Altus, or Counter-Tenour; the Tenour, which we call the Mean, or Tenour; and the Bassus, which we call the Base, or lowest Part.

In the ordering of these Parts there are two several ways of Composition, viz. Counter-Point, and Descant.

Counter-Point, is setting of Parts together in such sort, that they may answer each other ex­actly, Note for Note.

Descant, is the setting of Parts together in such sort, that the Notes of one may answer to those of the other, not in equality of Number, but only in Time and Proportion; as two Minims, or four Crochets to a Semi-brief, and in like manner in all the rest.

Modulation, is the Musical performance, or expression of Harmony, by Singing or Playing upon an Instrument.

In Singing, or Playing, there are five things to be observed. 1. The Number of their Notes. 2. Their Names. 3. Their Tunes. 4. Their Times. And 5. Their Adjuncts.

The Number of Musical Notes is indeed but seven; for though from the lowest of a Mans Base, to the highest of a Boys, or Womans Treble, there are reckoned 21 Notes; yet they are really but 7, three times repeated; so that the whole Scale of Musick, commonly called the Gamut, should reach from Gamut below to F-fa-ut above, that is, from G, to F, in the lowest Septenary, or Base; from G, to F, in the middle Septenary, or Mean; and again from G, to F, in the highest Septenary, or Treble. But the most usual Scale falls short a Note in the third Septe­nary, reaching but to E-la; this possibly being supposed the ordinary Compass of a Voice. But some there are, who add to the Scale several Notes beneath Gam-ut, and above E-la, in Alt; this increased Scale being probably supposed, the extraordinay Compass of a Voice, or Instru­ment.

The second thing to be observed in Singing, or Playing, is the knowledge of the Names of the several Notes, which are commonly joyn'd with the seven first Letters of the Alphabet, which are properly to be look'd upon as the Cleffs, or Signs of the Notes.

The Names of the Seven Notes are, Vt, Re, Mi, Fa, Sol, La, Fa; where note, that the seventh is cal­led by the same Name as the fourth, as being but half a Tone above La, as Fa is above Mi; and [Page 192] the truth is, considering that Vt and Re are very much rejected by Modern Musicians, or at least accounted but the same with Sol and La. There are indeed but four single Names, viz. Mi, Fa, Sol, La, though oft repeated, and variously com­mixt one with another, as appears in this fol­lowing Gam-ut, or Scale of Musick.

  • The Treble, or highest Septenary,
    • F-fa-ut,
    • E-la,10
    • D-la-sol,
    • C-sol-fa,
    • B-fa-bi-mi,
    • A-la-mi-re,
    • G-sol-re-ut.
  • The Mean, or middle Septenary,
    • F-fa-ut,
    • E-la-mi,
    • D-la-sol-re,
    • C-sol-fa-ut,20
    • B-fa-bi-mi,
    • A-la-mi-re,
    • G-sol-re-ut.
  • The Base, or lowest Septenary,
    • F-fa-ut,
    • E-la-mi,
    • D-sol-re,
    • C-fa-ut,
    • B-mi,
    • A-re,30
    • Gam-ut.

Of the seven Cliffs, or Keys, noted by the seven Letters, four only are in use; the first is F-fa-ut Cliff, which is peculiar to the Bassus, or lower Part; and at the beginning of Songs and Musical Airs, is set upon the uppermost Line but one, and is thus marked 𝄢. The second is C-sol-fa-ut, which belongs to the Mean, or Middle Part and is commonly (but not always) upon the 40 middlemost Line, and is thus marked 𝄡. The third is G-sol-re-ut Cliff, which is appropriate to the Treble, or Uppermost Part; and at the beginning of Lessons, or Songs, is usually set on the lowermost Line but one, being thus marked 𝄞. These are the three first and Signed Cliffs: The fourth, which is called B Cliff is unfixt to any particular Part, but goes through all, and serves wherever it is for the Flatining, or Sharpning of Notes, where it is called B-fa, or B-flat, and is 50 thus marked (♭); where it sharpneth it is called B-mi, or B sharp, being thus marked ♯.

Of all the four Notes, Mi is the principal, and claims a station in these places, viz. in B-mi, E-la-mi, and A-la-mi-re: In the first, as in its proper station, in the others when B flat chanceth to be placed there; also moreover immediately from Mi, Fa-sol-la is Sung twice upwards, and La-sol-fa twice downwards, and then you return to Mi again.60

The third thing to be considered in Singing, or Playing, is the knowledge of the Tunes of the Notes, wherein this thing is chiefly to be observed, viz. that from Mi to Fa, and from La to Fa, is but half a Tone; but between any other two Notes is a whole Tone, as will appear in these following Examples.

[...]
[...]
[...]
[...]

The fourth thing to be considered in Singing, or Playing, is the Time of Musical Notes, which is denoted by eight several Terms of distinction, each having their several Marks, or Characters, and each comprehending the other double, viz. a Large contains two Longs, a Long two Breves, a Breve two Semibreves, &c.

𝆶
A Large.
𝆷 𝆷
A Long.
𝆸 𝆸 𝆸 𝆸
A Breve.
𝆹 𝆹 𝆹 𝆹 𝆹 𝆹 𝆹 𝆹
A Semibreve.
𝆹
A Semibreve.
톹텥 톹텥
A Minim.
톺텥 톺텥 톺텥 톺텥
A Crochet.
톼텮 톼텮 톼텮 톼텮 톼텮 톼텮 톼텮 톼텮
A Quaver.
톼텯 톼텯 톼텯 톼텯 톼텯 톼텯 톼텯 톼텯 톼텯 톼텯 톼텯 톼텯 톼텯 톼텯 톼텯 톼텯
A Semiquaver.

The fifth thing to be considered, is the knowing the Adjuncts, which are these, viz. A Tye, a Re­peat, a Pause, a Direct, and a Close.

A Tye is a Mark, by which two Notes are sig­nified to be joyned together, and especially when two Notes are to be Sung to one Syllable; this Tye is made by a Semicircle, whose two Ends point to the two Notes conjoyned; as thus, [...]

A Repeat is to signifie, that a part of a Song, or Lesson, is to be Sung, or Played over again from that Note over which it is placed, and it is thus marked (vocal join)

A Paus, or Rest, is to signifie a ceasing for the space of some Note Sung or Played; this Paus is named according to the name of the Note for which it stays, as a Large-rest, a Long-rest, a Breve-rest, a Semibreve-rest, &c. all thus noted: 𝇁 𝇂 𝇃 𝇄 𝇅 𝇆 (quaver rest)

A Direct, is to shew at the end of one Line, where a Note stands in the beginning of the next Line; as thus marked, (direct) (direct)

A Close is the End of a Song, or Strain; the first is called Perfect, and thus marked 𝄐. The other Imperfect, and thus marked 𝄑.

As to the exact Rules of Composing, I refer you to larger Volumes of that Subject, it not being designed here.

[Page] [Page]

To the Right Worshipfull Sr. Richard Myddleton of Chirk Castle in Denbigh-Shire Baronet. This Plate is humbly Dedicated By Rich: Blome.

CHRONOLOGY.

CHAP. I.
Of the Day.

THe Day is either Astronomical or Political, otherwise called Civil; The Astronomical is that which is so termed by Astrono­mers, 10 and is divided into Natural, and Arti­ficial.

1, The Natural Day is that interval of Time wherein the Sun departing from any Point of the Heavens, or from the Meridian returns again to the same Point; or otherwise it may be defined, The Suns conversion from any first Meridian to the same again, which is performed in the space of 24 equal Hours.

2, The Artificial Day is the space of Time 20 from Sun-rising to Sun-setting; or the whole Time of the Suns-shining in our Hemisphere, the oppo­site Time whereof must accordingly be called Artificial Night.

Note, That the Artificial Day differs from the Natural, in regard the Natural is always and every where the same, wheras the Artificial hath almost always a perpetual Mutation, especially in Regions remote from the Aequator; for, as I said, the Artificial Day comprehends only the 30 space of Time comprehended between the Suns rising and Setting, being shorter in Winter and longer in Summer.

Note Secondly, That the Days are longer in Summer by reason of the Suns longer continuing above the Horizon, and the larger Arches of Heaven the Sun runs through in respect to our Horizon, as you may see in the Description of the Sphaere: On the contrary, the Diurnal Arches the Sun makes in Winter, are shorter. The Di­urnal, and Nocturnal Arches appear almost all-equal.40 Not to speak of the Twilights, being an impression of Light from the Sun-beams upon the Air, either before Sun-rising, which is called Di­luculum, or Day-break, or in the Evening after Sun-set.

Note Thirdly, That the Natural Day hath not the same beginning among all People, but is de­termined according to the different institution of each of them. The Babilonians use to denominate 50 the Day from one Sun-rising to another. The Itali­ans on the contrary from one Sun-setting to ano­ther, and accordingly they number their Hours. The Antient Romans, and accordingly the Romish Church at this day reckon from Midnight to Mid­night. The Arabians and Astronomers from Moon to Moon, because the Sun and Stars keep always the same regularity to each other, in respect of the Meridian Circle, but not in respect of the Horizon, which always varies according to the variety of the Polar Elevation.

Nor can we in respect to the Holy Scriptures omit the Custom of the antient Jewes, who as they were commanded by God, began all their Feasts from the foregoing Sun-setting, according to that of Leviticus, from Evening to Evening ye shall celebrate your Sabbaths. Contrarily the Tyrians began their Day from the Sun-rising, and probably in this matter they differ'd not from the Babilonians, and other Neihbouring Provinces, who computed the Hours not from Sun-rising, but from its Setting.

Further Note, This Natural Day consisting of Artificial Day and Night, is called Civil, or Poli­tical, as it takes beginning, or ending from the different Institution of People and Countries; And of these Political Days some Festival or Holy-Days, in which Shops are shut up, and common Works laid aside, or Working-Days allotted for the exercise of all manner of Works and Pro­fessions; and these Days are noted in these Tables, or Books, which from the Arabians we call Al­manacks, and from the Latins, Calenders; for a Calender is the Order and Series of all Months, Lunations, and Festival-Days, which happen through the Year; and it is called Calender from the Calends, which are the first Days of every Month.

CHAP. II.
Of the Hours.

AN Hour is one of those lesser Spaces of of Time, into which every Day of the Year is continually divided. It is more parti­cularly thus defined: An Hour is the 24th part of a Natural, or the 12th of an Artificial-Day.

Note First, That of Hours, some are called Equal; which are the 24 Parts (as have been said) of a Natural Day, otherwise term'd Astro­nomical, or Equinoctial; because each of them is that Space of Time wherein the Aequator ascends 15 Degrees above the Horizon, or in which the Sun in his Course run through 15 Meridians: Each Hour is divided into 4 Quarters, and every Quarter into 15 Minutes, or Scruples, making in the whole 60.

[Page 194] Note Secondly, Others are called Vnequal Hours by the Greeks. There are 12 Parts as well of Day, as of Night; that is, as well of that Time wherein the Sun is above the Horizon, as wherein he stays beneath it: And they are called Vnequal, not that the Hours of one and the same Day or Night, are unequal amongst them­selves; but because when as there are 12 equal Parts of unequal Days, that is, of Summer-Days, and Winter-Days, it must necessarily follow,10 that the Summer, and Winter-Hours, are by this means Unequal amongst themselves. They are also called Vnequal, because in the Summer time the Diurnal Hours are longest, and the Nocturnal shortest; but in the Winter time quite contrary. They are also called Temporary, because accord­ing to the diversity, that is, the Length, or Shortness of Days they have different Magnitudes. Lastly, They are said to be Planetary, in regard certain Ancient Astronomers were of Opinion,20 that the seven Planets ruled the Hours succes­sively, that is, in such a manner as this, That the first Hour of the Day should be allotted to that Planet from whence the said Day took de­nomination.

It is to be observed out of Baronius, in his Re­marks upon the Year of our Lord 34, that the Jews divided as well the Day, as the Night, not only into 12 Temporary Hours, but also into 12 Equal Parts, as it were into 4 Stations, 30 each of which contained 3 of those which are called Temporary, and Vnequal Hours; but the 4 Parts of the Night were called Vigiliae, by a Name borrowed from Vigiles. The first began at Sun-setting; the second ended at Midnight, where also the third began; and the fourth ended at Sun-rising.

Now the 4 Parts of the Day were properly called Hours, each consisting (as aforesaid) of [...] Temporary Hours, so as that the last part of 40 this sort of Hour, that is, the Second, was the Sixth Common and Temporary Hour, which the Third proper Hour of the Jews followed, con­taining of the Temporary Hours the Seventh, Eighth, and Ninth: And according to this Cal­culation St. Mark rightly saith, that our Saviour Jesus Christ, was Crucified in the Third Hour, that is, in the Third of those Four equal Stations into which the whole Day was divided; where­as St. John writing, that he was Condemned by 50 Pilate in the Sixth Hour, that is, in the Sixth Temporary, or Vulgar Hour.

CHAP. III.
Of the Week.

60

THe Week, called by the Latins Septimana, is a Period of 7 Days, still circling in a Ring; first instituted by God in the beginning of the World, Religiously observed by the Hebrews, and the observation thereof delivered by Tra­dition from them to others. But the Hebrews themselves called the principal Day of the Week the Sabbath, as it were a Day of Rest, in which God is said to have Rested after his finishing the Worlds Creation: Moreover, amongst them this Day gave Name to the whole Week, so that Sab­bathum was the same as Hebdomada; and what we call the first, second, or third Day of the Week, &c. was by them called the first, second, or third Day, &c. of the Sabbath.

The Ethnicks gave to each of these Days the Name of one of the 7 Planets, taking beginning from the Sun, whence the first Day was called Dies Solis, or Sunday; after which followed the rest in order, as dies Lunae, Monday; dies Martis, Tuesday; dies Mercurii, Wednesday; dies Jovis, Thursday; dies Veneris, Friday; and dies Saturni, Saturday.

The Christians used to call these Days Feriae, to signifie, that there ought to be a Divine keeping Holy-day, by Resting from all Profane or Secular Employments, and following only Religious Duties, especially those set apart for the Holy Function. The first Feria they called Dies Dominica, or the Lords Day; because on that Day our Lord and Saviour, Jesus Christ, was Raised from the Dead. The seventh Feria still retains the Name of Sabbath, to signifie, that the Jewish Sabbath was only a Type, or Shadow of the Lords Day, and as it were a preparation to the celebrating thereof.

For the better representing the Revolution of these 7 Days throughout the whole Year, the 7 first Letters of the Alphabet, A, B, C, D, E, F, G, have been made choice of in such an Order and Method, that each of these Letters in their turn should declare the Dominical-Day, whence they are generally called Dominical Letters.

CHAP. IV.
Of the Month.

THe Month is twofold, Solar, and Lunar. The Solar, is that Space of Time in which the Sun runs through one whole Sign of the Zodiack; wherefore in consideration that the Sun runs through those 12 Signs of the Zodiack in 365 Days, and some odd Hours and Minutes there are attributed accordingly to some of the Months 30, and to others 31 Days, February only excepted, to which the Remainder falls, and compleats the above-mentioned number of Days in the Year. The Lunar Month, is that Space of Time in which the Moon runs through the Zodi­ack; or the Space between the two Conjunction of Sun and Moon; for there is a double Lunary Month, one called Periodical, being the Space wherein the Moon departing from any Point, re­turns to the same again, that is, (as is vulgarly computed) in 27 Days, 7 Hours, and odd Minutes The other Lunary Month, is that which they cal [...] Synodical, or the Month of the Lunary Syzygi [...] or Conjunction, and is that Space of Time wherein [Page 195] the Moon going from the Sun, returns again into Conjuction with him; and this is said to be in the Space of 29 Days, 12 Hours, and an half; for when the Moon finishes her Period of 27 Days, and 12 Hours, the Sun in the mean time makes some Progress, that is to say, 27 Degrees; and this must be made up in the Moon Circle, before she can come again to her Conjunction with the Sun, which can't be done in less than 2 Days, and 5 Hours, which being added to the Number 10 of the Periodical Months, make 29 Days, and 12 Hours; not to mention Minutes. And thus the Periodical Month are by turns of 29, and 30 Days; the twice 12 Hours remaining making in 2 Months one whole Day: And this is that sort of Month that the Year is divided into.

Thirdly, It is to be noted, that the Lunar Months are joyn'd with the Solar; and that the Lunation is properly of that Solar Month, in which it ends, according to the Vulgar Saying,20

In quo finitur Mensi Lunatio detur.

The Reason of this is unfolded by Clavius in his Calendarium Gregorianum, C. 17. that is to say, for that it would otherwise happen, that some­times the Months would scarce have one or ano­ther Day of their proper Lunation through the whole Year, especially when the first Lunation of the Year happens upon the first of January; for 30 the other Lunations of the same Year, begin only in the last Days of the Month.

Fourthly, Observe that the first Month of the Year amongst the Ancient Egyptians was called Thot, amongst the Romans, Martius; whence July was called Quintilis, and August, Sextilis, as being the fifth and sixth Months from March. But when Numa added January, and February, then the usual computation was made from the first of January. 40

Fifthly, It is also observable, that the Months were divided by the Romans into three sorts of Days, Calends, Nones, and Ides. The first Day of every Month was called Calendae from the Greek Word [...], that is, to Call; because on that Day the People were called as well to the Fairs and Markets, as to the Capitol, to receive from the Priests what was to be observed for that Month, in reference to the Worship of the gods. Next, followed the Nones, so called, as contracted from Nundinae, that is, Fairs, as some are of O­pinion.50 Lastly came the Eight Days of the Ides, which follow the Nones; these Ides are generally supposed to be so called from the old Word Iduo, which signifies, to Divide; because they make a division between the Nones, and the Calends; which Calends, because they have their fixt and certain Seat in every Month, as falling upon the first Day of every Month, when as the Days of the Ides, and the Nones, are various dis­posed. There are these following Verses vulgarly 60 made use of to give direction, by what Method the Nones, or Ides, are ascribed to their respective Months:

Sex Maius Nonas October, Julius & Mars,
Quatuor, at reliqui dabit Idus quilibet octo.

So that when the Nones are once known, the finding out of the rest will follow of course.

Sixthly, From these three Days all the rest take their denomination: For Example, the Day which precedes the Calends, that is, the last Day of the fore going Month, is called Pridie Calendas, or Primus Calendas, Secundus Calendas, the Se­cond Day before the Calends, and so of the rest; and the same is to be said proportionable of the Nones, and Ides.

CHAP. V.
As the Month, so also the Year is Twofold, viz Solar, and Lu­nar.

1. THe Solar Year, is the Space of Time wherein the Sun departing from any Cardinal Point of Heaven, returns again to the same. The Principal, or Cardinal Points, are these four; the Vernal Aequinoctial, the Summer Solstice, the Autumnal Aequinoctial, and the Winter Solstice; which gives beginning to the four Seasons of the Year, viz. Spring, Summer, Autumn, and Winter.

But 'tis observed, that amongst the Ancient Egyptians, and the Romans, this Circuit of the Sun was measured exactly by 365 Days, which computation was found short of the Celestial Motion about 6 Hours; whence it came to pass, that every fourth Year, the first Day of the Year, and consequently the rest following lost their place, and had no first Station, whereupon those Feasts which ought to have been celebrated at certain times, fell out sometimes in Winter, and sometimes in Summer, as it hapned. This Error Julius Caesar at length corrected, by adding to the 365 Days, 6 Hours, which at the end of every fourth Year being added together, made up a Day, which Day was inserted into the Month of February, the last and shortest of all the Months; and it is called Bissextile, because it is inserted, bis sexto Calendas Martias, twice on the sixth Day before the Calends of March; and not only the Day, but the whole Year is called Bis­sextile, or Leap-Year.

This Constitution of the Year was observed in the Roman Empire, and from its Author called the Julian Account, being twofold; the one Com­mon, consisting of 365 Days; the other Bissextile, of 366.

II. The Lunar Year, is that Space of Time wherein the Sun and Moon are 12 in Conjunction; and thus the Lunar Year, consisting of 12 Syno­dical Lunations, contains 354 Days; which Lunar Year is at this Day only in use amongst the Turks and Saracens; neither hath it amongst them any certain beginning, nor is it determined by any certain Season, or Point of the Heaven, as amongst us the Julian Year begins always about the Winter Solstice. Others have so accommo­dated [Page 196] the Year to the Moons Motion, as to joyn also the Suns Motion thereunto.

But it is to be noted, that the Lunar Year falls short of the Solar about 11 Days, so that if this Year the New Moon falls upon the Calends of January, the Common Lunar Year of 12 Lu­nations will be finish'd on the 20th of December, the New-Moon still going back the Space of 11 Days, until by the third Year 13 Lunations are brought about, the last whereof will be finish'd 10 on the 27th of December; and this sort of Lunar Year is called Embolismical, or Embolismal, from the Embolism, or Intercalation of that Lunation. And thus the Lunar Year, as well as the Solar, is twofold; the one Common, consisting of 12 Lunations; the other Embolismical, contain­ing 13.

It hath been observed by Meton a famous Astro­loger, that the New Moons after the Revolution of nineteen years Elapsed, return all again to the 20 same days, and the same point of time; for Ex­ample, if this present Year the New Moon should fall on the first of January, it would in like man­ner certainly fall on the same day on the nine­teenth Year ensuing. Hence proceeds the most fa­mous Cycle, or perpetual Revolution of Numbers, from one to nineteen, by the benefit whereof it may easily be understood, upon what day of every Month the New Moon happens, insomuch that it is used to be set down in the Calender in Golden 30 Letters, and so it was called the Golden Number, being commonly defin'd to be a Revolution of Years, from 1 to 19, which Revolution being finish't, there is a return again to Unity. For Ex­ample, in 1653 the Golden Number being 1, that of the following Year will be 2, and so forward to 19; and thus the proper number of the Year in the Decennoval Series, extending through every day of the Year, will shew the New Moons, as often as it happens; but every Year of the Golden 40 Number Terminates in the end of December, and in the beginning of January of the ensuing Year another takes its beginning.

And this was the Doctrine of Meton, which here­tofore was vulgarly followed by all; but at length it was found not absolutely free from Error, for as much as by this Computation, the Moon appeared to have finish't her Period sooner by one Hour, and about 27 Minutes than she had begun it 19 Years before, whereupon after 66 Cycles the Gol­den 50 was got 4 days distant from the New Moons; upon which the Epacts were brought into the room thereof, of which more hereafer in the seventh Chapter; however it was by no means thought fit to be left out of the Calender, since it is of great use for the finding out of the Epacts of every Year.

III. Divers Nations according as Custom hath prevail'd, have given different beginnings to this Year: I shall only mention the Custom of the 60 Jews▪ and Romans, as being most observed through­out Europe.

The Jews heretofore began their Year from the Vernal Aequinoctial, because according to the com­mon Opinion, the World was Created at that time of the Year, although when they sojourned amongst the Aegyptians, they conformed to their Custom, beginning the Year from the Month Thoth, which (by reason of the neglected Inter­calation of one day every fourth Year) answered to no certain point of the Celestial Year; but as soon as they were come out of Egypt, they were commanded by God to have recourse to their old beginning, as is mentioned in the 12th of Exo­dus, the Month Nisan shall be to you the begin­ning of Months, it shall be the first in the Months of the Year.

But this is to be understood out of the sacred Year, to which their Feasts, New Moons, and all other sacred Rites were accommodated; for as the Interpreters of Scripture observe, that the Civil Year of the Jews after their departure from Aegypt, began from the Month Thisri, and all their civil Affairs and Negotiations were reckoned, according to the course of this Civil Year. Hence it is, that some Authors assert, that the Jews before Moses, began their Year in the Autumn, and make it their chief Argument to prove, that the World was Created in the Autumnal Aequinocti­al.

The beginning of the Roman Year, was from the Calends of January, and consequently but a few days distant from the Winter Solstice: And the Christians have for the most part followed their Example, upon the account of our Saviours Birth, being so near that time. But the Franks not till the Year 1564, before which they began their Year from Easter-Day.

CHAP. VI.
Of the Gregorian Account.

THe Catholicks have thought fit in this one particular, to give some way to the Jewish Ceremonies, that is, in exactly observing the time of their Passover, in their Celebration of Easter, by reason that the one (as St. Augustin observes) is a Type, or Mysterious Allegory of the other; so that as the old Passover, as we have already mentioned, was celebrated by Gods Command in the first Moon, or Month of the Year, so also the Christian Passover, or Easter was by the Nicene Council ordered to be kept on that Month; and that no Controversie might arise in the Celebrati­on thereof, they pitch upon the 14th day of the first Month, both as to the Feast, and as to be the Seat of the Vernal Equinoctial, accounting that the first Month, whose 12th day should fall upon the Aequinoctial, or immediately follow­ing it; afterwards the Equinoctial Epoch, was by the Judgment and Consent of the most skilful Astronomers determined to the 21th of March; and at length the Golden Number was fitted to the Calender, by the benefit whereof the New-Moons, and other Days of the Moon might be easily found. Moreover, herein also the Chri­stians differed from the Jews, in that they ap­pointed Easter to be kept not as the Jews did, [Page 197] on the very 14th Moon of the first Month, but on the Lords Day immediately following it, and that chiefly for this reason, viz. because on the first Dominical, or Lords Day after the Jewish Pass­over, our Saviour rose from the dead. For as the Author of the Gregorian Calender saith, the Jews Celebrate the Passover on the 14th Moon, which represented the Death of Christ, so we in this Feast Celebrate the Memory of Christ's, which hapned on the Dominical Day; so that not to con­cur 10 with the Jews, in case the 14th Moon of the first Month should fall upon the Dominical Day, the observation of Easter must be transferr'd to the Lords Day following; therefore for the more exact Celebration of Easter, upon which all the rest of the moveable Feasts depend, these three things are especially to be observed, viz. the Vernal Ae­quinoctial, the 14th Moon of the first Month, and the Lords Day following the said 14th Month.

But after this Constitution it came to pass, how­ever 20 through the mistakes of Astronomers, that the Vernal Equinoctial at length, in stead of hapning on the 21th of March, it was on the 11th, nor could the New Moons be well computed by the Golden Numbers placed in the Calender; but fell out above 4 days later than their just time; and consequent­ly, Easter-day could not be kept in its due turn, ac­cording to the Sanction of the Nicene Council: Whereupon by the Authority of Pope Gregory the 13th, who called together all the ablest Astrono­mers 30 of that Age, the Calender was rectified, Anno 1582. the Year brought to its just measure, and by taking away 10 days, the Vernal Equinoctial reinstated in its former Seat; and lastly, 30 Epact­al Numbers put in the room of the Golden Num­ber.

According to this Form, that space of time where­in the Sun departing from any point of Heaven; for Example, from either Equinoctial, or Solstiti­al Point returns again to the same, is called the 40 Caelestial, or Tropical Year; and this sort of Year is unequal, that is, sometimes greater, and some­times lesser by some Scruples; and by this means it leaves us in Obscurity as to its Solution. Where­fore Astronomers following a middle way, have allotted to the Year 365 Days, 5 Hours, and 49 Minutes, reckoning it as a mean between the Tropick, or Celestial Year, and the Julian Year which is greater by 11 Minutes, or Horary Scru­ples; and because the Julian Year though greater 50 than the Tropical, was not however totally thrown aside, it was provided to prevent all Error for the future, that every Century of Years one Bessextile Day should be omitted, excepting only every 4th Century, which should retain the Bissextile, accor­ding to the common Custom.60

CHAP. VII.
Of the Various Cycles, and Peri­ods of Years.

NOt to insist long upon the Explaining the several Epochs of Time, It is enough to say that Epochs are certain Heads, or beginnings from whence Time is computed, and agreed upon amongst all Chronologists, as among the Epochs of the Old Testament, Noahs Flood, the Jews delive­rance from Bondage, and the Babilonish Captivity; Amongst the Christian Epochs, the Birth, and Pas­sion of our Saviour, the Destruction of Jerusa­lem, &c. Amongst those of the Romans, the Build­ing of Room; And amongst the Greeks, the De­struction of Troy, the Olympiads, the Death of Alexander, &c. Much of the same nature are the several Areas, as the Area, or Hera of the World, that is, the number of Years from the Worlds Creation; the Christian Area, or number of Years from the Nativity of our Saviour; also the He­gira of the Arabians from Mahomet.

The Cycles and Periods of Years are a certain number of Years Circuiting about, by which as so many Faithful Guardians, the Series of Times are preserved whole and entire: Famous amongst the Greeks were their Olympiads, which were every 5th Year, in which all sorts of Games and Exerci­ses were performed. Amongst the Romans was their Lustrum, which was also the space of five Years, at the end of which time all Tributes and Taxes were paid; but in the Reign of Constantine the Great, the Olympiads, and Lustres being ab­rogated, the Indiction was put in the room thereof: This Indiction was the space of 15 Years, which was the time allotted to the Provinces of the Roman Empire, for the paying their Tributes; and the use of this Indiction is retained amongst the Eccle­siastical Accounts; Amongst the Jews there were two noted Periods, viz. the Sabbarian Year, that is, every 7th Year, in which the Earth was to rest from all manner of Tillage, in like manner as Man from all manner of dayly Labour on the 7th day of the Week. Secondly, the Year of Jubile, which was every 50 Years, at which time not only the Earth rested from Tillage; but all Debts were remit­ted, &c. There needs no more to be said of that which we call Seculum, but that it is the space of 100 years; nor of the Acunm, but that it may be properly said to contain 1000 years; as for the De­cemnoval Circle of the Golden Number, it hath been sufficiently Treated of, Chap. 5. There now re­mains only the Cycle of the Epacts, and the Solar Cycle.

1. The Epact is the Series of 11 days, by which space the Lunar Year is exceeded by the Solar; so that if this Year the Epact be 11, the next Year it will be 22, but the third Year not above 3; be­cause that as often as by the Addition of several Epacts together, the number 30 shall come to be included in the sum of the said Epacts, 30 is to be taken away, and what remains is to be retained [Page 198] for the Epactal Number of the following Year; so that every 3d Year in which the Thirties are cast away, there happens an Embolismical Moon. Where note, that the Epacts always proceed by the Addition of the Number 1 [...], till the Golden Number happens in its course to be 19, and then the Number 12 is added in the room of 11, for the Epact of the following Year, and therefore this Cycle is called, because it is oftentime thus interrupted.10

II. The Solar Cycle, or Circuit of Dominical Letters is a revolution of 28 Years, at the end whereof the same Order, or Combination of Let­ters returns as at first; for since it hath been said before that the Series of Letters A, B, C, D, E, F, G, which represents the 7 Feriae, or Days of the Week, are so disposed in the Calender that the letter A, prefixt at the beginning of the Year, continueth on in the same capacity, and denotes the self same Day of the Week to the Year's end,20 unless that the Year happen to be Bissextile, the next Year in like manner B, and so forward in their order. The whole Cycle, or revolution of the 7 Letters would by this means be brought about, and finished in 7 Years, if the Bissextile Day did not obstruct; for this being every 4th Year inserted, and in the whole Series of Years 7 times coming about, though in a different man­ner, doth not happen in the same order of Letters, until all the 28 Years are compleated, as may be 30 seen in the Calender; for it is called the Solar Cycle, because it consists of Solar Years, which being 4 times Multiplied upon 7, compleat that Number, and this Cyle according to the Roman Custom begins from the Bissextile Year which hath F for its Dominical Letter. Of all the sorts of Cycles mentioned, the three most in use amongst Chrono­logists are the Decemnoval Cycle of the Golden Number, the Solar Cycle of 28 Years, and the Cycle of Indiction consisting of 15 Years.40

The Solar Cyle being Multiplied by the Decem­noval Cycle of the Golden Number produces the number 532, which is called the Dionysian Period, from the Inventor thereof, Dionysius sirnamed Exigans, who observed, that the revolution of these 532 Years brought about an exact con­formity of the 3 Cycles, and consequently by that the New Moons return not only to the same Days of the Year, but also the same Days of the Week, as they are noted in the Calender. 50

Hitherto may also be added the Julian Period, consisting of 7980 Years, which ariseth from the Multiplication of the Dionysian Period by 15, the number of Indiction; they call it the Julian Period, because it is composed of the Julian Year, Multiplyed upon each other; and it is finish't of the same Conjugation, upon the return of the 3 Cycles of which it is composed; neither will the same Conjugation of the Solar Cycle, the Golden Number, and the Indiction ever happen again in 60 any Year of this Period, until after the revolu­tion of 7980 Years: For Example, it is to be supposed from the Doctrin of Petarius, that 3983 Years, of this Period had past from the Creation of the World, to the Birth of our Savi­our, and that the Christian Area, or first Year of Christ began with the Year of the World 3984 [...] and that the Solar Cycle then 10, the Lunar or Golden Number 2, and the Roman Indiction 4, fell upon the first Year of Christ, as appears from the exact computation of them. For if in this present Year of Christ the Cycle of the Sun be 9, and of the Moon 10, as all Mathematicians agree; it follows, that those above-mentioned were in the first Year.

Lastly, It must be taken for granted, that those three Cycles agree together in the Year of the Julian Period 4714; because if this Number be divided by 28, which is the entire Solar Cycle, the Remainder from the Division will be the Number 10; and by the same Reason, if afterwards the same Number of the Julian Pe­riod be divided by the Cycle 19, the Remainder will be 2; and if by 15, the Cycle of the In­diction 4.

These things being first laid down, it follows, First, That the first Year of Christ, which is supposed to be the Year of the World 3984, concurs with the Year of the Julian Period 4714. Whence observe, Secondly, That the Years of the World being subtracted from that Number, there remains out of the Julian Period the 730 Years which went before, and were co­existent with no real Time, 731 Years of the Julian Period being past before the Creation of the World.

And thus we may understand what the true Reason is of the Julian Period, namely, that every Year thereof may have its proper Cycles, all which can be found in no other Year of the same Period.

CHAP. VIII.
Practical Examples of CHRO­NOLOGY.

To find the Solar Cycle of any given Year.

TO the Year of our Lord propounded, add 9; then divide the Sum added by 28, and the Remainder is the Solar Circle of the given Year: If nothing remains of the Division, the Number of the Solar Circle is 28.

Note, That the Quotient in this Division shews how many Revolutions of this Circle have been made from our Saviours Nativity to the Year proposed.

'Tis further to be noted, That the Number 9 is therefore added, because that our Saviour being Born in the 10th Year of this Cycle, 9 Years thereof had then past.

To find upon what Day of the Week, the first Day of any assigned Year shall fall.

DIvide the fore-going Year of Christ by 4; then add the Quotient to the Number di­vided, omitting the remainder of the Division; [Page 199] from the Sum Total subtract 10, and then divide the residue by 7, and the Remainder from this Division will be the Number sought; or if there be no Remainder, then 7 it self will be the Number. For Example, Let 1654 be the Year proposed, the Year preceding being divided by 4, the Quotient will be 413, which being added to the divided Number, produceth 2066; but 10 being subtracted, 2056 is the remaining Number; which being divided by 7, hath 5 for its Re­mainder; 10 shewing that the first Day of the said Year is the fifth Day of the Week, viz. Thurs­day.

To find the Dominical Letter of any given Year.

SUbtract the Day of the Week found by the former Rule from 9; for Example, 5 from 9 and there rests 4, which Remainder shews, that the sought Letter is the 4th amongst the Domini­cals, 20 reckoning inclusively from A, whence it fol­lows that D, is the Dominical Letter of the said Year; for it may be taken for granted from what hath been said before, that A is always affixed to the begining of the Year.

To find out the Bissextile Year.

DIvide the given Year of Christ by 4, if no­thing remains, then that Year it self is 30 it; or if any remain, then the said remainder shews the Number of Years from the Bissextile, both for the time past and that to come; for Example, from the Division of the Year 1654 there rests the Number 2, which shews that 2 Years before, that is 1652 was the last Bissextile, and that 2 Years after, viz. 1656 will be the next.

The Year being given, to find the Number of the Roman Indiction.40

TO the Year of our Lord proposed add 3, because it is determin'd that our Saviour was born in the 4th Year of this Cycle, so that consequently 3 Years were then past. Now let the Number composed of the said Year and added, be divided by 15, the Number left of the Division will be the Indiction sought; if nothing be left, con­clude it to be the Year of the Indiction compleat­ed,50 viz. 15, and the Quotient will shew how many revolutions of this Cycle have past until that given Year. For Example, in the Year 1654, the Year of the Indiction is 7, and there have past to this time 110 Cycles of the Indiction.

To find the Golden Number of the given Year.

TO the given Year of our Lord add 1, which Number divide by 19, the Remain­der will be the Golden Number of the current 60 Year; for Example, The given Year of our Lord being 654, the Golden Number will be 2.

To find the Epact of the given Year.

TO the Golden Number, which is supposed already found, and consists of 3, or a com­position of several Threes, add 20. The Sum, if it amount not to 30, or the Surplusage if a­bove, (for then the 30 must be cast away) is the the Epact sought. For Example, The Golden Num­ber of the Year 1651 is 18, being a multiplicity of Threes, to which 20 added, makes 38; so that after the 30 cast away, the remaining 8 is the Epact of the Year. Otherwise if the Golden Num­ber should be less by a Unite than 3, or a Com­position of Threes, then add 10, and the Sum thereof will be the Epact; yet still with a rejecti­on of 30, when ever there is a Surplusage of that Number. And thus in the Year 1654 the Epact is 12, but if the Golden Number chance to be greater by a Unite than 3, or a Composition of Threes, the Golden Number it self will be the Epact sought.

To find when it will be New-Moon in any given Month.

ADd the Epact of the Current Year to the Number of Months inclusively from March, and Subtract the Product thence arising from 30, or if it exceed that Number, then from 60, and the Remainder will shew the Day of the Month on which the New-Moon happens. For Example, It is inquired on what Day of the Month of August Anno 1651 the New-Moon was, suppose the Epact of that Year was 8, Add there­unto 6, the Number of Months from March, the Sum of both these Numbers will be 14; then Subtract from 30, and there remains 16; whence it is apparent, that the New-Moon of that Month was about the 16th Day.

To find the Age of the Moon on any Day given.

HAving from the foregoing Problem gained the New-Moon, if the given Day of the Month be after the New-Moon, reckon how many Days inclusively have past from thence; but if before, it will belong to the last part of the pre­ceding Moon. For Example, If the Age of the Moon be sought on the 24th of August in the Year 1651, in which the New-Moon is found to fall on the 16th Day, by consequence it may be concluded, that she was 9 Days Old; but if it be sought on the 8th of August, it was on the 22 of the Moon preceding; upon this Hypothesis, that 30 Days are attributed to the Moon; for if from 30 you Subtract the Days numbred from the New-Moon found, and consequently from the end of that preceding Moon which is found to be 8, there remains 22.

There is another Vulgar way of finding the Age of the Moon. Add together these 3 Numbers, the proper Epact of the Year, the Number of Months inclusively from March to the given Month; and lastly the given Day of that Month. If the Sum of these Numbers added be under 30, it shews the Age of the Moon; if above 30, [Page 200] then Subtract 30 from it, and the Remainder will be the Age of the Moon sought.

Note, That when the Age of the Moon is sought in the Month of January, or March, nothing is to be added to the Epact, but the Day of the Month, and that only 1 is to be added for the Month of March, and April. But remember, that that Epact begins from January.

The Age of the Moon being known, to assign its 10 place in the Zodiack.

SUppose that on the 31th of October the Sun be in the 8th Deg. of Scorpion, and that the Moon be at that time 16 Days Old, conse­quently that 16 Days before she was in Con­junction with the Sun in the 23th Degree of Libra; and lastly that the Moon in one diurnal Circuit passeth through very near 16 Degrees of the Zodiack: Hereupon multiply those 16 Days 20 by the 13 Degrees, and the Product will shew how many Degrees she is distant from the Sun; then by reckoning the Degrees which the Sun hath finish'd at that time, and knowing how many Degrees the Moon hath departed from the Sun, it may consequently be collected in what Sign the Moon is, and in what Degree of the Sign, since every Sign contains 30 Degrees. Or thus, multiply the Age of the Moon by 4, and again the Product of this Multiplication by 3,30 and you will have the Number of Degrees of the Moons distance from the Sun.

Note, That the Moon departs every Day far­ther and farther from the Sun about ¼ of an Hour; so that if she riseth to Day with the Sun, to Morrow she riseth not till ¼ of an Hour after.

To find the Paschal Moon of any given Year.

SEek in the Gregorian Calender, from the 8th 40 of March to the 5th of April, for the Epact of the Year current, and that will shew that the New-Noon is on such or such a Day; then reckon 14 Days from thence, which done, seek the Dominical Letter, which follows next after the said 14th Day; and hereby the true Time of the Feast of Easter is known.

Note, That these Moons only which begin at the 8th of March, and end at the 5th of April, 50 can become Paschal, and consequently that Easter can't fall sooner than the 22th of March, since the 14th Day of the Moon falls upon the 21th of March, and the Day following is the Domi­nical, or Lords Day, which is Sunday. But neither on the other side can Easter fall later than the 25th of April; and consequently, it is also to be observed, that a March Moon, that is, whol­ly within the Month, can never become Paschal, since (as it hath been already observed,) the 60 Moon is only attributed to that Month in which it ends; but the Paschal Moon always ends out of the Month of March; whence it follows, that a March-Moon can never be Paschal; or a Moon of the first Month, according to the Jews, and the Decree of the Nicene Council.

The time of the Day, or Night being given, to find what a Clock it is.

FIrst, Let the Suns Elevation above the Ho­rizon be known, and the Degrees of the Zodiack, which the Sun or Moon possesseth, be rightly disposed in the Circle of the Elevation; then apply the Ostensor to that Deg. or part of the Zodiack, according to the Line of Direction, which upon the Limbo will point to the Hour sought; that is, if in the East-part, the Anti­meridian, or Forenoon-Hours; if in the Western­part, the Pomeridian, or Afternoon-Hour.

Where Note, That Equal, or Equinoctial Hours are here treated of; for if an Vnequal, or Temporary-Hour be sought, the Ostensor is ap­plied to the part opposite to the Sun, or to the opposite Sign and Degree in the Zodiack; the lower part of the Ostensor will denote the Vn­equal.

To find the Rising, and Setting of the Sun; and consequently the quantity of the Artificial Day, at any time of the Year.

PLace the Part, or Degree of the Sun, found by the Astrolabe, on the Eastern part of the Horizon; then set the Ostensor to that part of the Sun, and it shews the sought Hour of the Suns-Rising. In like manner the Hour of the Suns-Setting, is to be found by transferring that of the Zodiack where the Sun is to the Western Horizon.

The same is also done by the Globe, or Ar­millary Sphaere, by applying that part of the E­cliptick where the Sun is, to the Meridian-Circle, and at the same time putting the Horary Index upon the Meridian-Hour; and lastly, turning that part of the Zodiack Eastward, till it exactly answer the Horizon and then the Horary-Index will shew at what Hour the Sun Riseth: In like man­ner answerably for finding the Hour of the Suns-setting.

Of the Morning and Evening Crepuscle, or Twi­light.

THe Morning Crepuscle begins when the Sun comes within 18 Degrees of the Horizon, towards his Rising in the Morning; the Evening Crepuscle ends when the Sun Setting is gone 18 Degrees beneath the Horizon. To find the Hour of this Crepuscle, turn the Globe so about, that that part of the Ecliptick where the Sun is, may fall 18 Degrees beneath the Horizon, and then the Horary-Circle will declare the sought Hour; and so the opposite part being Elevated 18 De­grees above the Horizon, proves that the Sun at the same time is descended 18 Degrees beneath, as will appear by numbring those Degrees upon the Aequator.

To know what A-Clock it is in any part of the World.

THis will easily be found by the help of the Terrestrial Globe; the Hour being first known of those Regions which lye under your Meridian, by moving that Meridian, and di­rectly applying it to the immoveable Meridian of your Instrument, and placing the Horary-Index 10 at such or such an Hour; then upon turning about the Globe, the Immoveable Meri­dian will point out those Regions, whose Hour de­sired is shewn in the Horary-Index.

First, It is to be noted, for the unfolding of several Problems of this nature, That the Earth is daily surrounded by the Sun, who in that Quotidian Course passeth through a multitude of Meridians, successively one after another; so that he must visit every Hour, 15 Meridian, accord­ing 20 to the Account of 365, being divided by 24. Moreover, It must be allowed, that in every Country there is a Mid-day, or Noon, when the Sun makes its Circle, which is thence called the Meridian-Hour, the very midst of the said place, and consequently, that every 15 Meridians he passeth through, so many Hours he makes; and that the Sun makes at the same time both the same Hours, and also both new Hours and Sea­sons respectively, according to the several Coun­tries 30 and Regions he passeth through; whence it may well enough be affirmed, That that very mo­ment there is at one and the same time every Hour and every Season of the Year throughout the several Countries of the World, in so much that every Hour of the day perpetually circuits round about the Earth, &c. Suppose therefore, that to a man resting under the same Meridian there is alwaies a natural Day of 24 Hours, be­cause there must needs be such a space of Time before the Sun can return again to the same Me­ridian.

Note also, That to a Man journying Eastwards, the Day is less than 24 Hours: for the Sun will be sooner in that Meridian in which he is to meet him, than in that from whence he departed. On the contrary▪ to one that makes a Journey West­wards, the Day becomes more than 24 Hours, because the Sun will sooner reach the Meridian from whence the Person departed, than to over­take the Person departing: Wherefore, Note in the last place, That it may so happen that two Ships setting forth from the same Port, the one Eastwards, and the other Westwards, yet at length may meet in some part of the World. In like manner, Admit Peter go hence Eastward, and Paul at the same time Westward, and both of them having surrounded in their Travels the World, after some Years, return on the same Week to John, who remains all this while at Home; it may happen that although every one of them observe the same way of counting the Time, yet John may reckon Tuesday; Peter, Wednesday; and Paul, Munday; then the next day after Peter may have Thursday, John Wednesday, and Paul, Tuesday; lastly on the day following, Peter may reckon Fryday, John Thursday, and Paul Wednes­day, and so of the rest; so that in one and the same Week in reference to 3 Men, Thursday will be thrice reckoned.

Hence comes the Solution of a common Para­dox, maintaining, That it may so happen that two Brothers born at the same time, shall also dye to­gether, and yet one live longer than the other, because he hath numbred more Days.

HISTORY.

AS the antient Philosophers have very pro­perly defined Time to be Mensura Motus, the Measure of Motion; so History may not unfitly be defined Mensura Temporis, the Measure of Time: But to give a more exact Defi­nition, History is the written Account of Me­morable Things transacted, and of Persons trans­acting, from the Creation of the World to this time. It is by Cicero more Elegantly and Rhe­torically styl'd Testis Temporis, Lux veritatis, 10 Vita Memoriae, Domina Vitae, Nuncius Antiquita­tis, &c. The witness of Time, the Light of Truth, the Life of Memory, the Mistress of Life, and the Messenger of Antiquity.

The Division of History is according to many Authors, threefold, viz. Ecclesiastical, and Pro­phane; Antient, and Modern; and Vniversal and Particular: But since there is no Essential differ­ence between Antient and Modern, I shall only make use of a twofold Division, viz. First into Ecclesiastical and Prophane; next into Vniversal and Particular; the last of which is included in each Branch of the First, that is to say, both Ec­clesiastical and Prophane, is subdivided into Gener­al and Particular.

Ecclesiastical History is that which treats most Peculiarly of the Affairs of the Church, that is, of the administration of Affairs by persons who profess an Ecclesiastical Function.

The First, and principal part of Ecclesiastical His­tory, is that of the Holy Scriptures viz. the Old and New-Testament; The Old Testament contains the Creation of the World, the Transgression and fall of Adam, the universal Deluge, the repeopling [Page 202] of the World, by the Sons of Noah, the Off-spring of Abraham, multiplyed according to Gods Pro­mise from the 12 Tribes of Israel, into a numer­ous People; Gods deliverance of the Children of Israel, by the Hands of Moses and Aaron, from the Aegyptian Bondage; Their slow Marches, and long Sojourning in the Wilderness; Their several Victories under Joshua, and the rest of their Jud­ges, until that compleat Conquest of the Land of Canaan; The rise of their Kingdom under 10 Saul; the progress thereof under David and Solo­mon; the Division thereof into two distinct King­doms, viz. of Judah and Israel, with the dou­ble Race of Kings from Rehoboam King of Ju­dah, and J [...]oh [...]am King of Israel, to the Assyrian, and Babyl [...]nish Captivity; The return of the Jews from Captivity; The rebuilding of the Tem­ple, and of the Walls of Jerusalem, by the Inte­rest of Ezra, and Nehemiah, with the Kings of Persia. 20

The New Testament contains the Incarnation and Nativity of Jesus Christ; The Address of the Eastern Magi to Him with their Presents; His conveyance into Egypt from Herods Tyranny; John the Baptists Preaching, Baptism and Execu­tion; Christ's Temptation by Satan in the Wil­derness, and his Conquest over him; His dispu­tation in the Temple, his Preaching to the Multi­tude and his Disciples; his several Miracles; his last Supper; His approhension through the Trea­chery 30 of Judas; His Trial, Crucifixion and Resur­rection; His appearing amongst his Disciples after his Resurrection; His Ascension into Heaven, and his sending down the Holy Ghost upon the Apostles in cloven Tongues; the first planting of the Christian Religion by the Preaching, Sufferings, Miracles and Writings of St. Peter, St. Paul, after his Conversion, and other Apostles, and Ministers of the Gospel.

The rest of the Ecclesiastical History continu­ing from the time where the Holy Scriptures end,40 contains all matters relating to the State of Christianity from that time until this: The anti­ent Fathers what Times they flourished, with an Account of their Writings: The Exemplary Lives of the Primitive Christians, and their patient suffering under the Ethnick Roman Emperours, particularly the Ten cruel Persecutions, first under Nero, lastly under Dioclesian; The Christian Faith first openly profess't, and asserted by Constantine the Great in the Year of our Lord 306: The 50 Succession of the Popes of Rome, from Linus to this present Innocent the 11th; The Transactions of the 20 General Councils from the first General Council at Nice, Anno 318, to the Council of Trent, Anno 1563; The Contest betwixt the Catholicks of the Latin, and the Arrians of the Greek Church, as also about Image-Worship; The first Commencement of the Bishop of Romes clayming Supremacy over all the rest of the Chris­tian Bishops, and Patriarchs in the time of the 60 Usurping Emperour Phocas, Anno 601. The 26 Antipapal Schisms or Factions of one Pope setting up against another from Novationus against Cor­nelius, Anno 255, to Felix against Eugenius, Anno 1439. The Reformation of Religion in England, Germany, Denmark, Sueden, Switzerland, part of France, and else where in Europe; and the great Animosities betwixt those of the Romish-Party, and those of the Reformation.

Prophane History contains the various Acci­dents, Events and Occurrences in the World in Secular Matters; The Acts and Designs of emi­nent Men, whether good or bad, both in Peace and War; The strange alterations and vicissi­tudes of human Affairs; The Fall and decay of Empires, Kingdomes and States, with the rise, and growth of others.

All our late Writers of universal History a­gree in this one Method, that is, of carrying on the main stream, or current thereof through the 4 chief Empires, or, as some call them, Monarchies of the World, viz. the Assyrian, Persian, Grecian and Roman.

The Assyrian Monarchy or Empire, which may also be called the Babilonian, in regard the chief Seat of the Empire was for the most part at Ba­bilon, until the Empire came to be divided into a double Empire, viz. that of the Babilonians, and that of the Medes, which was begun by Belus, vulgarly called Jupiter Belus, and is thought by many to be the same with Nimrod mentioned in Holy Scripture; others account Ninus the Son of the said Belus, to be the first Assyrian Monarch; however there are named, (and for the most part only named) about 37 Monarchs from the origi­nal thereof to Sardanapalus, who being totally over­thrown, by his two Vice-Roys Beloch of Assyria and Arbaces of Media, the Empire was divided, and there Sprung up a double Race of Kings, viz. of Babilon from Belochus, and of Media from Arb [...]es. The last of this Median Race was, Astiages, whose Grand-Child Cyrus by the Daugh­ter of Mandana a Persian by the Fathers side, got the Kingdom from his Grand-Father, and United the Persian, and Medes into one Empire.

This Grand Monarchy began about the Year of the World 1820. contemporary with which was, first the Sicyonian Kingdom, much of the same origen begun by Aegialus; next the Argive King­dom begun, Anno Mundi 2100, by Inachus, whence descended the family of the Inachidae, after whom succeeded the Dardanidae, and lastly the Mycenaeans. The Kingdom of Athens, began by Cecrops, Anno Mundi 2426, and of Lacedamon by Leles about the Year 1500, The antient Kings of Latium from Janus, Anno Mundi 2700, and after them of the Silvian Race from Aeneas, Anno 2803; and after them the Roman Kings from Romulus, Anno 3231, to Tarquinius Super­bus, Anno 3446. The Kings of Troy from Darda­nus, Anno 2600, to King Priamus, in whose time, Troy was Burnt and Sack't by the Greeks. The Corinthian Kingdom from Sisyphus, Anno 2573. The antient Macedonian Kings from Caranus, Anno 3170.

The second Grand Empire called the Persian Monarchy, was begun by Cyrus, Anno 3425, and rendred the more potent by the Addition of the Median Kingdom, which he got by conquest from his Grandfather Astiages, as before mentio­ned. [...] Empire lasted not very many Ages, for it was not much more than 250 Years from its first Rise, before it was brought to a Period by the Conquest of Alexander, Son of King Philip of [Page 203] Macedon, commonly sirnamed the Great. Con­temporary with this Monarchy, were the Great and Noble Actions of the Athenian and Spartan Com­mon-Wealth. The Original of the Roman Repub­lick, after the Expulsion of their Kings, Anno Mundi 3475, under the Annual Government of Consul, and Victorious Progress thereof.

The third Pancrastick Dominion, called the Greek Empire, is liable to some dispute as to its Existence, Original, and Duration; for the heighth 10 of the Grecian Glory, and success was under the Athenians, and Lacedemonians; but these two People being in those days both Republick, the time of their Flourishing could not properly be said to be one of the said Monarchies; besides in their highest pitch of their Glory and Grandure, they were Contemporary with the Persian Monarchy, to which at first they were a Terror, afterwards by turns, an Aid and Assistance against each others dreaded Power; whereas all the 4 Empires must 20 needs be reckoned each Successive to the other; so that we may justly reckon this Greek Monarchy to be a mighty Blase of an Empire, rising out of the Mocedonian Kingdom; being raised to its heighth of Splendor, by the Great Success of King Philip, who subdued the rest of Greece, and the great Success of his Son Alexander, who about the Year 3650 and odd, with a small Army quickly overthrew the whole Power of Persia, and carried Terror to the remotest parts of the Eastern World; 30 but the Pride of this Great Conqueror was soon laid low, and small was the fruit he Reap't of all his mighty Conquest; for he was taken out of this Life in the Flower of his Age, and both his Paternal and subdued Dominions parcelled out in­to several Kingdoms and Principalities, by his Suc­cessors the Grand Captains of his Army, the chief whereof were, First, the Remnant of the Macedoni­an Monarchy, from Cassander the Son of Antipater, Anno Mundi 3663, or thereabouts, to Perseus who 40 was overcome by the Romans, Anno 3816. Second­ly, The Race of the Ptolemies in Egypt, from Ptole­maeus Lagi, Anno Mundi 3660, or thereabouts, to Cleopatra the Sister of Ptolemaeus Bacchus, and Mistress of the great Roman Captain Marcus An­tonius, with whom she died, to avoid being carried in Triumph to Rome, Anno Mundi 3954. Thirdly, The Kingdom of Syria from Seleucus Nicanor, Anno 1672, to Antiochus, 12th Son of Eusebes, Sirnamed the Asian, Anno 3718. Contemporary 50 with this Renowned, but short liv'd Monarchy, was the growing greatness of the Romans, under their Consular Government, during those above men­tioned Dynastys, which Sprung out of the Greek, or Macedonian Empire. The most noted Kingdom besides, was that of Pergamus in Asia, from Phi­leratus the Eunuch, Anno 3700, to Attulus Son of Eumeches, who dying, made the Common-Wealth of Rome his Heir.

The 4th and last great Predominant Power of the 60 World, the Greatest without all doubt of all the rest, and of the longest continuance by far, espe­cially since to this day (in Name and Title at least) it remains in being, is called the Roman Empire; for it may very well deserve the name of an Em­pire, long before it could be called a Monarchy; which was not until the Caesars had wrested the Su­pream Power from the Senate of Rome, and assu­med the Title Imperator, attended with Regal Au­thority and Dignity; whereas Romes Dominions were extended to their utmost Bounds, under the Influence of a Common Wealth; and Julius was but the Senates Servant when he Conquered Gallia, and a great part of Germany; however since our Writers of Universal History, have for the most part thought fit to commence that Roman Empire from its Imperial Monarchy; it will be convenient to subscribe to the general Opinion, both as to the be­ginning, and continuance thereof; by which it will appear, that the greatest part of the Roman Empire by far hath been Excluded out of Rome, having undergon such an Alteration, and such a Trans­plantation from one Seat to another, as no other Monarchy beside, either before, or since. From Ju­lius Caesar, to Constantine, Rome was the Seat, which was about 350 Years, and in that time it suffered much of Alteration and Diminution. The choice of the Emperour was all this while, and for the most part long after, at the Armies pleasure; and it remained in the Julian Race but till Coccius Ner­va. Constantine the Great, the first Christian Emperor, at least that openly profess't himself so, removed the Seat of the Empire from Rome, to a new Ci­ty of his own building upon the Thracian Coast, called from thence Constantinople, or Constantines City; so it continued till the time of Theodosius, Sirnamed the Great, who divided the Empire be­tween two Sons, Arcadius, and Honorius, whence Sprung a double Race of Emperours, viz. the Ea­stern of the Line of Arcadius, Reigning at Constan­tinople, and the Western of the Line of Honorius Reigning at Rome; but this Western Empire was soon brought to a Period by the incursion of the Goths, Huns, and Vandals into Italy. Three times in one Age was Rome taken, and sack't by these Invaders, but the third time it was taken, viz. in the Year of our Lord 475, by Odoacer King of the Heruli, the Imperial Line was Totally Expelled Rome, and shortly after a new Kingdom erected by the Goths in Italy. Thus Rome which had been the Mistress of the World for so many A­ges, and the Seat till of late of the greatest Mo­narchs of the World; had now lost all its Glory, and become a common City; but that it seems it was from its first Foundation to the Worlds end, designed for an Empire in some sort or other; and now a greater Empire seems to attend it, by how much the Spiritual Sword aws more than the Tem­poral, for not long after the time now mentioned, the Bishop of Rome began to claim Superiority over all other Bishops; and by that means hath ever since kept under his Obedience and Subjection all the Princes and Potentates of Europe (some few only excepted since the Reformation) more than ever any Emperour kept the lesser Kings his Tribu­taries. The Empire thus overthrown, however the Eastern Emperour kept a kind of Vice-Roy in Italy, with the Name of Exarch, who held his chief Seat at Ravenna. In this Estate continued the Succession of the Eastern Emperors, till Charles Sirnamed the Great of France had the Title of Roman Emperor given him by Pope Leo the Third, for the Aid given his Successor Adrian, against the Exarchs of Ravenna, and Desiderius King of the [Page 204] Longobards; so that a new Roman Empire was rai­sed again in the West, if it may be truly sti­led a Roman Empire; which neither had its Seat at Rome, nor any continual claim from the first Roman Emperors, but was only grounded upon a Title given by a Pope of Rome to a French King. For some Ages the Imperial Title continued to the Successor of Charles the Great, and had residence sometimes in France, and sometimes in Germany; 10 but from the time of Henricus Auceps, to this pre­sent Leopoldus Ignatius, the Imperial Seat hath been continually in Germany. From the Inaugu­ration of Charles the Great, to the time of Fre­derick of Habspurg, there still remained a Series of Eastern Emperors at Constantinople, so that all this while, namely for the space of about 650 Years, there was again a double Succession of Roman Emperors, Eastern and Western, though the truth is, which cannot be well understood how 20 either of them could pretend to much more than a bare name, or Title of Roman Emperours, ex­cepting that the Constantinople Succession was more clearly Built upon the Old Foundation; since all the vast Bulk of the Old Roman Conquest was fall'n in piecemeal, and was now almost reduced to nothing; so that no wonder the rising Greatness of the Ottoman, so easily overpowr'd the fallen greatness of the Roman. It was in the Year of our Lord 1453, that Constantinople was taken by 30 Mahomet the First, and Constantine the Emperour, Son of Joannes Emanuelis Slain. In a Constantine this Dynastie began, and in a Constantine it ended; and with it according to the Opinion of some, all that can rightly be stiled the Roman Empire, the Ottoman power succeeding as a Fifth Monarchy in the room thereof.

Contemporary with this great Roman Power, and Name, have been several other great King­doms, States, and Principalities, namely, with 40 the virile Age of the Common-wealth: The King­doms of Pontus and Bithynia, and the Remnant of the Macedonian and Syrian Kings, all subdued by the Romans; Great Mithridates of Pontus, Perseus of Macedon; and Antiochus of Syria: The Carthaginian Common-wealth, subdued also by the Romans, after the total Overthrow and destruction of Hannibal: The Kingdom of Mau­ritania, and Numidia in Africa; the later over­thrown by the Romans after the Vanquishing of 50 Jugurth; with the Western and Eastern Roman Emperors, from first to last. The several Suc­cessions of the Persian Kings, viz. the Arsacidae, or Parthian Race: The Persian Line restored, the Saracens, the Tartars, the Armenian Turks, and of late years the Sophies, with the Successors of Constantine. The Kingdom of the Goths ere­cted in Italy, from Theodorick to Tejas; after­wards of the Longobards, from Albovin to Desi­derius, Anno Dom. 774. The Merovingian Race of Kings in France, from Pharamond (Anno Dom. 400) to Childerick the Third, Anno Dom. 750, or thereabouts. The Visigoths in Spain, from Athaulphus the Brother of Alaricus, Anno Dom. 415, to Alphonsus the Second, Anno Dom. 800. The Saxon Heptarchy in England, from Hengist King of Kent, Anno Dom. 457, to Crida King of the Mercians, Anno 1626. The Ancient Kings of Scotland, from Fergus, Anno Dom. 422, to Achajus, about the Year 800. The Vandals in Africa, from Geiserick, Anno Dom. 427, to Gilimer, taken Prisoner by Belisarius, Anno 534; and after them the Sarazens. The beginning of the Venetian Commonwealth; with the Western Empire, enti­tuled from Charles the Great, the Successors of the said Charles, who from him had the Imperial Title themselves; and after them the other Line of French Kings, from Hugo Capet, Anno Dom. 987, to this present King Lewis the 14th. The Remainder of the said Succession of the Kings of Spain, from Ramirus the First (about the Year 800) to this present Charles the Second. The Saxon Monarchy in England, from King Egbert, Anno Dom. 800, or thereabouts, to King Harald, Anno 1066; and after that the Succession of the Kings of England, from the Norman Conquest by Duke William, to His present Majesty King James the Second. The Remainder of the Dynasty of Scotland, from Achajus to his present Majesty King James the Fifth of Scotland, and Second of England. The Remainder of the Dynasty, the Kings of Spain from Alphonsus the Second, Anno 800, to this present King Charles the Second. The King of Denmark. The Kingdom of Por­tugal, as taken out of the rest of Spain, from Henricus Burgundus (Anno 1090) to the present King. Not to mention the Kingdoms of Den­mark and Sweden; the several States and Princi­palities of Italy, since the decay of the Roman Monarchy there, as the Common-wealths of Venice, Genoua, &c. The Dutchies of Ferrara, Parma, and Placenza, Modena, Mantua, Savoy, the Kingdom of Naples, which with the Dutchy of Milan is now under Spain; And the Dukedom of Florence. Thus you have a general view of History from the Creation to this present Time, as far as Brevity required will allow.

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OPTICKS.

THE OPTICK is an Art of Judging well at Sight, which has two Parts, viz. Perspective and Specular.

Perspective is the first and principal part of the Opticks, which teacheth Nature, and the pro­jection of the Rays of the Sight, Colours, Lights, and Forms.

It teacheth likwise to Judge rightly of the Si­tuation, Greatness, Interval, and Distance of all things visible.10

The Sight is a Sense, by which Colours are re­presented and known by a transparent and pro­per Interval.

Colour is an Accident of a Superficies, which is the proper Subject of the Sight, and is Simple, and Compounded.

A Simple or Primary Colour, is the proper Subject of the Sight, which has but only one temperament, as Black, and White; the definition of which two Colours is made by the difference.20

White is a Colour which is nearest to Light; Black, nearest to Darkness.

Of these two Colours all the rest are compounded.

Compounded, or Mixed Colour, is called the proper Subject of the Sight, which hath divers temperaments; and is divided into an Extream and Mean.

An Extream Colour is that which approaches Nearest to the Simple, which is again Subdivi­ded into Yellow and Blue. 30

Yellow is a Colour approaches nearest to White, and to the Light; Blue is nearest to Black, and to Darkness.

Blue, which is called Verditer, is only Blue wash'd, as Yellow is nothing but Yellow wash'd.

Yellow therefore is a Colour compounded of Simples, in which there is even more of Light, and so Blue, in which there is already more Darkness.

Yellow, which is called Gold-Colour, is that which comes near to Light. 40

The Mean Colours between the two Extreams, are Red, and Green.

A Mean Colour is the proper Subject of the Sight, and is made of the Compounded.

Red is a Mean Colour, made of the Compoun­ded, in which there is always more of Light; it is properly that Colour which is seen in the Flames of Fire. Earthly Bodies seem to look Red, if at any time they receive Light; but Watery Bodies seem of a Purple Colour. 50

Purple Colour is properly that which is seen in the Waters; It is not a Violet Colour, although it seems near it; but it is Compounded of Light, which is mingled with a Mass of Blue, because the greater clearness makes the Blue to appear as it were Red.

Green is also a Mean Colour made of Yellow and Blue, in which there is always more of the Blue. Let this suffice for Colours, being more at large treated of in Painting.

Light is a Splendour which flies Darkness: The true and proper Light is the Sun, being call­ed the Fountain of Light; other Lights proceed, and are borrowed from that of the Sun: That Philosophers say, that the Celestial Luminaries borrow their Light from the Sun; but since this Light is not Infinite where it is not, and when it is departed, Darkness follows, which is nothing else but the Privation of Light.

Now let us say something of the Interval, of which there hath been already something said, which ought to be commodious and transparent.

An Interval, is a Distance from the Eye to the thing that it Sees: no Body can See so well with­out a commodious and transparent Distance; What we call commodious, ought neither to be too long, nor too short; but a temperate and transparent Clearness is requisite to spread the Rays of the Sight; for if it be greater than it ought, we can see nothing, because that the Sight is not Infinite; therefore of necessity we must have a temperate and finite Clearness to see well; for that a two large Clearness, or dissipated Light dazles and dims the Rays of the Sight: It must be also transparent, because the Sight is made by Visual Rays, which are certain strait and great Lines from the Eye to the Object, by the vertue and efficacy of which we may see there are Twelve Axioms of the Opticks in Euclid from whence may be collected. That the Sight is made by strait Lines making an Angle in the which Axioms for Brevity sake are here omitted.

There are three parts, or considerations con­cerning the Sight, viz. when its Rays are cast di­rectly, when they are reflected, or when they are refracted.

That which is direct, properly belongs to this first part of the Opticks, the two other reflected or lessened to Catopticks, or Speculars, which is the second part, and contains the reasons of greatnesses, Fallacies or false Appearances which are presented to the Eye, because of distances. It also doth demonstrate and discover all the Im­postures, Cheats, Effects and Accidents that hap­pen by this reason to the Body, to the Sight, or to the Medium or Air, which is between both, and what changes may appear in the thing, and in the Sight by the various quality of this Air, or Medium, and by the Artifice of Glasses; the experiences of which are best discovered accord­to the diversity of their Forms and Fashions; for [Page 206] there are some that are Concave, some Convexed, some Plain, made in the fashion of a Pillar, or a Pyramid, viz. sharp at the Bottom, sewlling out with Angles reversed, regular, irragular, massive or sloping; the Sight transparent in the Travers where the Sight passeth.

But to avoid Prolixity, here is enough already said of this; the Reasons and Probations of things that concern the Sight, and of all that which depend on it are more amply demonstrated by certain 10 Axioms, and taught by the leaned Mathematici­ans, as Euclid, Vittellio, Ajguilonius, Mersennus, Niceron, and many others. By which Axioms may be learned by what manner the Sight is made, and how we ought to Judge.

Aximos are gave Sentence, which are not to be contradicted, unless we will dispute against the Truth: For the Mathematicians seek the things that are true, and apply themselves upon those things that are Invented, seeking and enquiring 20 from true, certain and indubitable Sentence, by which all the Dispute of this Art of the Opticks tends to demonstrate, That such Sentence are not doubtful, to which (after having diligently learned, and truly understood this little Aggres­sion) we ought to have recourse, and recommend the Reader thereunto.

[figure]

The Organ of the Sight.

THe first thing that comes to be handled in this Part of Opticks, is the knowledge of those parts which constitute the Eye, viz. six Tunicles, three Humours, two Nerves, called the Optick, or Visorian Nerves, and seven Muscles; the description whereof appears by the first Figure; not to speak of the Fat, or Glandule, of which the Ball of the Eye seems compacted; but because the Nerves are the principal part from which the Eyes seem to proceed, we will begin with them.

I. The Optick Nerves are produc'd from the foremost part of the Brain, whence after they have proceeded a little way, they all joyn toge­ther, but soon depart again asunder, so as that they form a Figure, resembling in some measure the Letter X, as is shewed in the second Figure. It is a thing worth the observing, that both these Optick Nerves are, as it were, cloathed with a double Tunicle, whereof one is a Particle of the Membrane of the Brain, which is called the Pia-Mater; the other, of that which is named the Dura-Mater; from the Tunicles, and from the Optick Nerves themselves, proceed those various Tunicles of which the Eye it self consists.

II. From the very substance of this Nerve di­lated, and (as it were) interwoven with several 30 Filaments in form of a Net, ariseth the Tunicle, which thereupon is called the Reticular, or Retine Tunicle, as from the Pia-Mater; that which from the heat of the Husk of a Black-Grape is called the Vveal Tunicle. This Tunicle involves the Eye, but in such a manner, that in the fore-part it hath a Hole directly answering to the Cristalline Humor, through which (as through a Window) are taken the Species transmitted by the Objects; and this is called the Pupilla, or Apple 40 of the Eye; though Aristotle, and some others, makes the Pupil and the Cristalline Humor all one. From the Dura-Mater springs that, which from its hardness and transparency together is called the Corneous, and overspreads all the Eye; but as it is continued farther, and closeth the latter part of the Eye, it is called the Sclerotick, and Consolidative Tunicle: But over this there also runs another, which likewise overspreads almost the whole Eye; this is called the Adnata. It 50 ariseth from the Pericranium, and joyns the whole Body of the Eye with the Cranium it self, within its proper Cavity; wherefore it is also named Conjunction: But where it extends it self almost over all the foremost part of the Eye, as far as the Iris, it is called the Album Oculi, or White of the Eye, and contains several small Veins and Arteries, as the Vvea doth, by which it receives the Alimentitious Blood.

60 Note, That is this Tunicle there is a Hole, through which the Pupil, and the Vvea is dis­covered in manner of a Circle, which by reason of its divers Colours is called Iris; and persons are said to have Eyes, Black, Gray, &c. accord­ing to the Colour which predominates in this Iris.

[Page 207] III. In the Eye there are three sorts of Humors, the first and principal is the Glacial, or Cristalline; this is encompassed by a Tunicle, which being as thin as a Spiders-Web, is therefore called Arach­noides; the second, from the similitude of beaten Glass, is called Hyaloides; the third, is that which is called the Aqueous, or Albugineous Humor, from the likeness of Water, or the White of an Egg.

IV. Each Eye hath seven Muscles, whereof 10 two move the Eye upwards and downwards; two Right, and Left; two in circumference; and one by which it is sustained, and the Sight fix'd.

How, and in what part of the Eye the Vision is made.

1. THe Opinion of Plato, or Gallen, is de­nyed, who hold, That Vision is made 20 by the-extramission of Light, or Visual Spirits, from the Eye to the Object; since when we look upon Heaven, how can it be imagined that so great a plenty of Light, or Animal Spirit, should be poured out to so great a distance, and such vast Spaces.

II. Aristotles Opinion is much more to be re­ceived, which is, That Vision is made by the re­ception of the Species, transmitted from the Ob­ject into the Eye, as appears by the Emanation 30 of intentional Colours, which are seen continu­ally made from Objects, nor could otherwise any Reason be given of reflected, or refracted Vision.

III. The Seat of the Visual Faculty is not the concourse of the Optick Nerves, since the Species could not be carried thither from the Object; neither is it in Cristalline Humor, for it must be in a part which is capable of receiving orderly Species, and terminating them; which can't be 40 in the Cristalline Humor, as being altogether Dia­phanous.

IV. This Visual Faculty is rather to be placed in the Retine Tunicle, both because it receives more commodiously, and in greater plenty, the Animal Spirit, necessary for Vision, as proceeding immediately from the Optick Nerve; and espe­cially, because therein the Species of Objects keep exactly their distinction and order among them­selves, as will appear in that noted Experiment 50 described in the 8th Figure.

These Species, though as flowing every way from all parts of the Objects, they naturally Em­body into a Sphaere, yet can they not be received by the Eye, but in a certain Conical Figure, which they vulgarly call the Optick Cone, whose Basis is in the Eye, but the Point of it in the Object; nor can any thing be seen but under this sort of Optick Cone, whose Axis is a Line perpen­dicularly from the Vertex, or Point to the 60 Base.

Note, That the Parts, or to speak more vul­garly, the Points of the Object do each of them (as it were) radiate in direct Lines, and are ter­minated in the Eye at the opposite parts of the Retine Tunicle; wherefore when all those Rays flow on every side from the Object to the Pupil, of the Eye, there they are said to cross and in­terfere, and so to digress to the proper and di­rectly opposite Points of the Retine Tunicle, so as that those which are uppermost in the Object, are terminated in the lowermost parts of the Re­tine, and in like manner contrarily, as is to be seen in the Third Figure.

That Point which is vulgarly called the Pun­ctum Opticum, or Optick Point, although it na­turally act in a Sphaere, whereby it may be seen every way, enters not the Eye, but under a Conick Radiation, whose Apex is in that Point, but the Superficies of the Eye, as is to be seen in the Fifth Figure.

Note further, That the Rays flowing from that Prine into the Eye, arrive not at the Retine Tu­nicle but with Refraction, and as they meet with the Axis of their Cone in one Point thereof. There are two Cones thence formed, of which the one is External and direct, that is, whose Apex is in the Optick Point, and its Basis in the Eye; the o­ther Interval and Refracted, having indeed its Basis common with the External or direct, but car­rying out its Vertex towards the Retine Tunicle: and these two Cones, as well the direct as refracted, constitute the Irradiation, or that total Figure, which from the Visible, or Optick Point is exten­ded to the Point of the Retine Tunicle; and this Figure they call the Optick Pencil, in Analogy to the Painters Pencil; because by the benefit of that Irradiation (as it were) by a certain Pencil, the object Points it self in the Eye.

This happens in the Retine Tunicle by the Picture of the Object, according as is shewed in the third Figure; and thus it must needs be de­painted altogether in such a proportion, as the external Objects are depainted in a Chart, accord­ing to Experience now approved, and represented in the 8th Figure. Hence also it is to be observed, That the Animal Spirits flow chiefly through the Optick Nerve, from which the Retine Tunicle is de­rived, and that the Orifice of the Optick Nerve is placed only on one side, and not in the middle of the Retine Tunicle, as appears in the last Figure; lest that part of the Image, which is produced from the Object perpendicularly opposite, should fall upon that Orifice, and by this means the Picture of the said Image would be disturbed.

Lastly, Take notice, that this Vision is either Perfect or Imperfect; the Perfect is said to be that which is clear and distinct; that is, whereby a thing is so represented, that it may easily be dis­cerned by any other thing whatsoever. The Im­perfect is confused and altogether undistinct.

It hath been already said, That Vision cannot be distinctly made, but by the Axis of a Visual Cone perpendicular to the Eye; whereas the other parts of the seen Object are discerned so much the more confusedly, by how much the farther they receed from the Point of the Visual, or Optick Ax­is; and the Vision is but confused, when the Species in the Organ are received without any distinct Picture of the Object, or when the Object is depaint­ed in divers parts of the Retine Tunicle.

Conditions required to Vision from the part of the Organ.

TO compleat Vision, Sanity of the Eye is in the first place required, as on the contrary any depraved Affection thereof, such as Glaucoma, Gutta, Serena, Suffusion, Hardness and Thickness of the Corneous Tunicle, or the like, hurts this No­ble Operation of the Sensitive Soul. 10

Now supposing, as aforesaid, that Vision is made by a Picture of the Object in the Retine Tunicle, to which the Vveal and the Choroides are subtended both for the strengthning the Retine, and for the stopping the Species, and hindring too much Ingress of Light by the means of its replanted Blackness. It is consequently to be allowed, that the Office of the Pupil is so to admit within the Eye the Species, and as it were Rays of the Object, that by their decusation they may be disposed into 20 the several parts of the Retine, and consequently frame a Legitimate Picture of the Object; whence the Pupil, which is already taken notice of to be the whole of the Vveal, is called the Window of the Eye; and in Men, and some Creatures besides, of a Round, but in other Animals, of an Oblong Form.

This Pupil hath the force of a Sphincter, by which it is capable of dilatation or contraction, not according to the pleasure, but as necessity ur­geth; 30 for when the Light is weak and thin, it di­lates to take it in the more; but if it be over-pow­erful and offend the Eyes, it contracts to keep it out as much as may be.

This Faculty of dilating and contracting is not from an Annular Muscle, as that of the Sphin­cter; but from a vertue inherent in the Membra­nous Circle, which Riolanus places about this Fo­ramen, or Hole of the Pupil, much after the man­ner of Diastole and Systole. Of all these Humors 40 which are about the Pupil, that which obtains the principal place, is the Cristalline; the use whereof is sometimes to draw in, something to produce farther out the Apex of the refracted Cone, whence the distinct Vision is formed. Where note, that a distinct Vision is then only made, when the Apex of the refracted Cone falls upon the Retina, as in the 5th Figure. For if the said Apex of the retracted Cone should tend beyond the Retina, as in the 4th Figure, the Vision would 50 be then only confused; for so the same Point of the Visible Object in divers parts of the Retine, is depainted by divers Rays. There is likewise a confused Vision, only when the Apex of the re­fracted Cone is on this side the Retina, and comes nearer to the Cristalline, as in the 6th Figure; for then from that Apex, or Point of concourse, the Rays of the said visible Point divert into divers parts of the Retine, and so that Picture becomes broader, and consequently fainter.60

Thus 'tis seen how the Eye disposes it self to perfect Vision, as well by the motion of the Pu­pil either contracting or dilating it, as also by the Cristalline, which is either dilated, or spread abroad, or conglob'd together to give a just distance to the Vertex of the Refracted Cone; for this is the effect of the Cristialline; in like manner as of the Vitreal Mote, according as it receives dif­ferent Forms thereof, wherefore Nature hath bound the Christalline with certain Filaments, which they call Celiar Processes, as it were with Bonds, that by the benefit of them, there might be a Contraction and Dilatation according as need requires; there­fore as the Vitreal Mote, by how much the more Globous it is, by so much the more it contracts to it self the Apex of the Refracted Cone: So the Cristalline the more Globous it is, so much the more it draws it back on this side the Retine, and makes the Pencil the shorter; which very thing happens also if the Albugineous humour abound, so that it obtains the Figure as it were of an Om­phaloptra. Wherefore that this fault may be cu­red, and things recalled to their natural Aspect, there is need of the Myoptra, which is a sort of Optick Glass, hollow in the midst, and represent­ing things less than the free Eye shews them; when as on the contrary the Omphaloptra being thicker in the middle than elsewhere, shews things bigger than the free Eye represents them.

Thus it being evident, That Contraries are distin­guish't from each other, by a contrary reason and Method, it follows, that those who have a plain­er Cristalline, or in whom the Albugineous Hu­mour is thinner in the middle than any where else about, have the Apex of their Refracted Cone extended beyond the Retina, and see things less to the Life, and not so clearly and plainly if placed near, as at a distance, and therefore have most need of the Myoptra; whereas on the con­trary those that are Purblind, and see things best nearest hand, have most need of the Myoptra, or Optick Glass hollow in the midst.

Note, That the Cristalline is a kind of Natural Optick Glass in the Eye, whose defects are chiefly to be mended, by the use of an Artificial Optick Glass, of a contrary Frame.

The Eye, which is the Organ of Vision, could not have been conveniently of any other Figure than Sphaerical, since thereby in regard of its Con­vex Superficies it receives more commodiously the Species from all parts. In the next place, it is of all other Figures the most Capacious, and there­fore most capable of containing the Humours. Last­ly, it is most apt for motion, and least obnoxious to harm, as having no prominent Angle.

It is generally held, and doubtless not without reason, that Vision from both Eyes is more clear distinct and perfect than from one; and herein we are more to rely on Experience, than on the Opinions of Aristotle, and Gallen, objecting that by the shutting, or taking away of one Eye, all the Animal Spirits retire into the other; nor is it more available to urge, that those who Aim at a­ny Mark always shut one Eye, it is not because the Vision is thereby any whit the better, but from the more sure taking Aim without interfe­ring, or Confusion of Images, so that Agnilonius observes very well, and proves it by the way of taking Distances, That the two Eyes are given, not only for Ornaments sake, but as well for Use and Advantage.

This also is very observable, That where there is such a consent of both the Eyes, that according as one moves, the other must also of necessity be moved [Page 209] the same way, and this consent more probably a­riseth from the consent, and in like manner of af­fection of the Optick Nerves, than from the con­sent of the Muscles of Motion, as some will have it. But that which might seem stranger, is, that every single Object, though appearing at once to two Eyes, is yet represented single as it is, and not double, as one single Sound is heard also sin­gle, though by two Ears; the reason is, because the Object is pointed in the same manner, and in 10 the same kind of part and Situation in both the Retina's; whereas the manifold appearance of Ob­jects Artificially represented, arises from the ma­ny Angles in these Glasses, and other Artificial Representations.

The Act of Vision, as well as of Hearing, or any Kind of Sensation, is made out by Aristotle, to be perfected in the Brain; and that by the In­ternal Concourse of that Sense, which is generally called Senses Communis, or common Sense; and 20 this may serve for another reason of the Vnity of the Object, Seen or Heard, though the Sensation be External in a double Organ.

Conditions required to Vision from the part of the Object.

I. THat nothing is visible, but by the Illustrati­on of Light, appears sufficiently by Experi­ence, and it is a Tenent maintained in Phisicks, 30 that Colour is not the most proper, but Secunda­ry Object of Vision; nor is actually capable of being seen, but as it is over-spread with Light.

II. The Visible Object ought to be Opaque, be­cause as Experience teaches, the Sight ought to be terminated in that which is seen; for a Body pure­ly Diaphanous, and having nothing of Opacity in it, cannot terminate Sight, being altogether previous to it.40

III. Every Visible Object ought to have some sensible magnitude; and this also Experience shews, because in Material Causes there is no other force implanted, than that they act in a Corpore­al Manner, and according to a certain extension of matter or Subject; nor can the Eye receive any kind of Species, unless some way or other exten­ded. It is commonly affirmed, that no Vision is made but by a Pyramid, whose Basis is constitu­ted in the Object, and its Vertex in the Eye; 50 whereupon those things appear greatest, whose Optick Pyramids have the greatest Angles in their Vertex; and so on the contrary; for as the late­ral Rays of those Angles are windened, so the Basis obtended against the greater Angle appears great­est; and as those Angles decrease, so the late­ral Lines constituting the Optick Pyramid, seem to meet nearer and nearer, till by degrees the Visible Base more and more disappears.

IV. The Sense of Sight as to it self, extends 60 virtually ad infinitum, for as much as Vision is not made by Emission, but by reception of the Species, which the Eye can as well receive from a remote, as from a near Space.

V. Nothing can be seen but by the mediation of some Distance, since every Object must needs have some space to send forth its Species; and there is required a convenient Medium between the Sight, and the thing seen: So Aristotle observes, that every Sensible placed upon the Sense it self, makes no Sensation; therefore things which are in the Eye, cannot be seen by the Eye; nor can a­ny thing held too near be perfectly discerned. But on the contrary, if the Distance be considerable between the Sight, and the thing seen, the farther the thing is from the Sight, the less it appears.

The Manifold kind of Vision.

ALl Vision is either a Simple Aspect, or a more close Inspection. A Simple Aspect is that Act by which a thing is perceived, so as it first falls upon the Eye, and this is called Vision prima­rily first, and is made in an instant; and it may happen in this Case, that what we see, may not be perceived by us; but by Inspection the several parts of the Object are Distinctly known; for there cannot be a Distinct Vision, but according to the Optick Axis, by which every part is suc­cessively viewed.

Inspection is either Simple, or from Praenotion, or anticipated Knowledge. Simple Inspection is ei­ther made by Vision alone, as when it is only con­versant about its proper Object, that is, Light and Colour; or when there is a comparing of one thing with another, which is an Operation of Mind, and as it were an Induction by way of Syl­logism. But to come more close to our former Proposition; Vision is either direct, that is, which tends in right Lines to the Object, by a Medium of Density, or Rarity every way equal (and this is the most Natural) or else refract, or lastly re­flexed.

Vision Refract, is that which consists of Rays, refracted by the meeting of a Diaphanum of a dif­ferent, either Rarity or Density; which the better to understand, Observe that no Refraction is made, but when the Ray is crost by Diaphanous or Trans­parent Mediums of a different, either Rarity or Density. As Air, Water, Glass, &c. And that by which the Ray is directly carried, is called the first Diaphanum; that by which it is broke, is cal­led the second Diaphanum.

Secondly, Note that those Rays only are re­fracted which are carried Obliquely, for Perpen­dicular Rays pass directly through both Diapha­nums; so that to Refraction these two things are required, First a diversity of Diaphanums in Densi­ty; Secondly, an Obliquity of Rays. For the better demonstrating whereof two things are chiefly to be taken notice of, viz. the Line, or Ray of Incidence, and the Line-Point, or Angle of Re­fraction.

The Line of Incidence is that which flows from the Object, through the first Medium, in which the Object it self is, and falls upon the Superficies of the second Diaphanum occurting, as in the 9th Figure, viz. The Radius is E, c, if the Object is supposed to be in E, but c is the Point of Incidence, d, f, is Superficies of the second Diapha­num, which is called Refringent, and in which is the Point of Refraction to c; the right Line b, a, drawn through c, the Point of Incidence is sim­ply called Perpendicular; if it fall obliquely [Page 210] upon the Superficies of the second Diaphanum, and inclines to the Perpendicular Line b, a, the Refracted Line will be c, g, and the Angle of Refraction h, c, g. But if it break, and recede from it, the Refracted Line will be c, j, and the Angle of Refraction h, c, j. The same Proporti­onally may be seen in the 10th Figure.

Note, That this is ever observed in Refractions, that when the Ray is struck through by the first Medium, or inclines from the thinner Diaphanum 10 through the thicker Medium, the Refraction is made to the Perpendicular. But on the contrary, if it be produc't from a thicker Diaphanum through a thinner Medium, the Refraction is made from the Perpendicular, and this is certain, That the Rays propagated through a thicker Medium are there­by rendred the more strong and active, it being common to all natural Agents to act the more vehemently in a thicker Subject; so Combustion is made in Burning-glasses by the help of this sort 20 of Refraction.

The sight is very much help't by Tubes, Pros­pectives and other sorts of Optick Glasses, because by the means thereof the visual Species pass more strongly and directly to the Eye, by reason of the long passage, and have all their virtue, the better rallied, and united together.

Amongst the Effects of Refraction, these are principally taken notice of, First, that by this means Things appear greater, or lesser, according 30 as the Refraction is made from the Perpendicular, or to the Perpendicular. Thus to us who are in the Air, Fish appear in clear Water bigger and nearer, because in that case the Refraction is made from the Perpendicular, so that the Rays the more they decline from it, the greater Picture they make in the Eye; whereas we appear less and more remote to the Fish, by Reason of the con­trary Picture in the Eye. Thus by Refraction the place is apparently changed; in the same 40 manner as the Stars appear to us as risen, when indeed they are beneath the Horizon. Thus Re­fraction changes the Figure, as when by reason of the Interjected Clouds, the Morning, or Even­ing Sun seems under an Eclipse.

The second thing taken notice of amongst the Effects of Refraction is, that to any one looking through a Triangular Prisme, there will appear Objects tinged with strange Colours like a Multi­plied Rain-bow; and those things which are in 50 Plano, seem raised upwards in a strange manner. The Trigon being in a particular manner disposed to the Eyes. Vision Reflect is what which is made by the Species, not streight imprest from the Object, but rather directed from the Object to the Speculum, and Reflect from the Speculum to the Eye. Thus in the 7th Figure, we may observe the Speculum a, b, receiving the Species from the Object c, the Line c, d, is called the direct Radius; in d, is the Point of Incidence, the Line 60 d, c, is the Line of Reflection, making a like Angle of Reflection c, d, b, with the Angle c, d, a, which is called the Angle of Incidence.

The Speculum is either perfect, and properly so called, or imperfect, or improperly so called; the perfect is that which should remit the Species, wherefore it is to be Terse, P [...]lite, Equal, and Opaque, otherwise it will not remit the Species and Image. The Imperfect is that from which the Species are not Reflected to the Eye, but rather are as it were terminated in the Reflecting Body it self.

Of the perfect Specula some are plain, some Sphaerical, either Convex, or Concave, some Coni­cal either Convex, or concave, and some Cylindrical, Eliptical, Perabolical, &c.

Note, that in a perfect Speculum, that is not the Species which seems to be, but rather the Ob­ject reflext by the Species from the Speculum, be­cause otherwise, the same must needs happen as in imperfect Speculums; for Eample, in Paper wherein through the Hole of a Chamber, shut close from Light, the Species are received, and that apparent Image would be seen in the Specu­lum, every way in like manner as the Species received, whereas it is not seen but in the Line of the Reflexion.

But then some will say every Speculum ought to represent the Object under the same Form, and Magnitude, whereas Experience shews that a smaller Speculum shews it in a smaller Form and Magnitude. To which may be answered, That a plain Speculum, whether little or great, attributes the same Magnitude to the Ob­ject, only with this difference, that a small Ob­ject may be seen whole in a plain Speculum, when a great one cannot. Moreover it may be said, that the Speculum being divided into parts, the Object would not be manifoldly represented, for as much as not the Image in the Speculum, but only the thing objected by the Speculum, is seen. To which it may be answered, That the breaking of the Speculum, if it change the Representation of the Object; for when it doth change it, it happens by reason of the changed Situation of its Parts.

It is lastly Objected, that the Speculum being moved, and the Object unmoved, the Object could not appear during the Motion; for as the Ob­ject only, not the Species is seen in the Speculum, We answer that the Object unmoved seems then to be moved, when in this or that part of the Eye, it is successively Painted; but that the Motion of the Speculum doth, whence it Repre­sents the Object as it were in Motion.

Concave Speculums render the Images greater, the Convex shew them lesser, whereas the Plain ones Represent them as they are.

The 11, 12, 13, and 14, Figures make appear according to Rules of Reflection already delivered, how an Image perfectly deformed, is represen­ted in its true shape in the Cylindricum Speculum, that is, a Division being made by divers Quadran­gles at pleasure, these parts which are designed in each of these sort of Quadrangles inscribed in the hidden Circles about the Cylindricum Spe­culum.

The Vision of common Objects.

THose thing are called common Objects, which are perceptible, not only by one of the common Senses, but by other also, with the accession of the internal Sense, which they call Sensus Communis, with the help also of our rea­son. Thus Magnitude, Distance, Place, Figure, [Page 211] Motion, &c. fall not only under the Sense of Seeing, but are likewise judg'd by the Sense of Feeling. As for Beauty, Deformity, Shade, Dark­ness, &c. though they are Objects of the Sight only: yet they are not the proper Objects of the Sight, as Light and Colour, but hold as it were a middle place between common and pro­per.

The Quantity of any Object seems bigger or lesser, according to the respect of the Angles 10 which are made, as the Vertex of the Optick Pyramid; so that through a small Hole of a Board any thing appears so much the bigger, by how much the nearer it is brought to the Eye; because the Angle of the Vertex of the Optick Pyramid is so much the more widened.

It can't well be judged what is great or small, thick or thin, long or bread, but by the accession of the internal Sense to the external.

Distance is perceived by comparing together 20 the Extreams, and the Body interposed; and for this Reason the Heaven appears at the Horizon joyn'd with the Earth, because we can discern nothing interposed.

Motion may be perceived when we distinguish between the Thing moveable, and the Space to whose parts it is successively applyed. Whence it follows, That a very swift Motion snatches from our Eyes the thing moved, as a Bullet from the Mouth of a Musquet; because by this 30 means there is made an insensible application of the Thing placed to the Place.

In like manner it is worth observation, that a very slow Motion is not perceived when it is in Action, but only when it is compleated; as the Motion of a Shadow on a Dyal, because a slow­ness of that Nature renders the change both of the Place and Thing insensible.

The Fallacies of Sight.40

THe Fallacy of the Sight is, when an Object is sometimes represented otherwise than really it is in it self; this ariseth sometimes from the vitiated Organ, as in those that are troubled with the Jaundice, or from that defect of the Medium; as if Snow be seen through a Red Glass, it appears otherwise than what it is in it self.

There is also a Fallacy of Sight arising from Distance, when by reason of overmuch Distance those Things which are really bigger, appear less; and long Walks appear narrower and nar­rower from the beginning towards the end. Moreover, Sight fails as to the Figure, as when a Circle plac'd obliquely appears like an Ellipsis; because the Species proceeding from thence by reason of the obliquity of the Situation is more contracted on one side, and so represents the Image of the Circle as it is.

Lastly, There is a Fallacy as to Motion; as when to those that Sail, the Shoars seem to move, and Cities seem to go back, when indeed 'tis the Ship that moves.

All Fallacies in the Act of Beholding, arise from the short-sightedness of the Beholder; as when there appears but a Foot in Diameter, when as it is a Magnitude infinitely bigger. Or from a false Estimation; as when any one beholding a Fire afar off, thinks it to be a Star: Or from a Paralogism, as when that Motion is imputed to the Moon, which is really in the Clouds.

Sometimes the Error is only in the Mind, either wavering in doubtful things, or moved by a contrary Affection; or by Phrensie justled from its proper Seat, or for want of serious Atten­tion.

These Errors may be corrected as well by the Mind, as by other inward and outward Senses; as when the Touch finds that to be plain in Picture, which to the Eye seems prominent, or jutting out; and the Vnderstanding corrects the erring Faculty, and it self, when the cause of the Error is taken away, and so as well the in­ternal, as the external Senses, have such a con­nexion with the Intellect, as to contribute mutual assistance to each other. Who desires to see these things more fully discust, let him consult Vitelle, and Aguilonius.

PERSPECTIVE.
Of Necessary things in Perspective, relating to Drawing and Painting, which every Practitioner ought to be experienced in, for the better un­derstanding the true Proportions and Distances of Figures, Houses, &c. in Landskips.

BY Persepective we behold, and draw the likeness of all Magnitudes in the manner and Form as they shew themselves to the Eye. The Matter to be seen is a Magnitude, and the Manner of seeing is by Radiations of Light, either direct, reflected, or refracted. Likewise, a Magnitude is that which hath Form, and is either lineal, superficial, or solid; that is, either a Complication of Points, Lines, or Super­fices.

[Page 212] A Line is a complication of Points, being a Length only, without Breadth, or Thickness.

A Superficies is also a complication of Lines, being a Length with Breadth, but without Thick­ness.

A Solid is a complication of Superficies, that is, a Length and Breadth with Thickness.

To draw the Appearance in Lines is the chief part in this Art, whereby the Idea conceived in the Mind by Sight, or otherwise, is brought 10 to Light.

A Radiation is a Beam of Light, conveying the likeness of the thing to the Sight, and the knowledge thereof to the Vnderstanding. Direct Radiations are those which consider the direct or strait Beams, that pass between the Eye and the Object. Reflected Radiations are those that con­sider the reflection of Beams, with their shape upon any polished Body. For Example, On a Globe, Pyramid, Cone, Cylinder, or any other regular 20 Soid; and this properly belongs to Catoptricks. Broken Radiations are those that consider the breaking of Beams, as they are to be seen through a Glass, or a Cristal cut into several Plains, or Superficies: And this part properly be­longs to Dioptricks.

The Active part of Perspective is either Ich­nographical, Orthographical, or Scenographical: Ichnography, is the description of the plain Base, or the bottom of any Body, or Building, and is 30 twofold, viz. Geometrical, or Scenographical; the Geometrical is that which gives the Sight of the Bottom, or Base of any Body, or Building; the Ichnography-Scenographical is the appearance of the same Base in Section, or through a Mirror erected upright on the same Plain on which the Base stands. Orthography is the Vision of the fore-right Side of any Plain, viz. of that Plain, or Superficies which lies Equidistant to a right Line passing through the outward or convex 40 Centers of both Eyes continued to a due length; so that Perspective Orthography is the delineation of the apparent right Plain. Scenography is the description of a Plain, or other Figure, that de­clines from the apparent or fore-right Plain, that is, of that Plain which makes Angles with the said fore-right Plain. Between the Orthographick and Scenographick Vision there is this difference; the Orthographick represents the Side of a Body, or Building, as it is beheld, when the Plain of the 50 Glass is placed Equidistant to that side; but the Scenographick expresses the Side of a Body, or Building, as it appears through a Glass raised ob­liquely to the said Side, or making an Angle there­with.

Of the Subject to be seen.

THe Base of any thing is the Plain, Flat, or Floor, upon which any solid Body or Ob­ject 60 is placed, or raised.

The Altitude is the Perpendicular space of place, betwixt the Base and the Eye, or height of the Visual Point above the Base. The Visual Point is a Point in the Horizontal Line, wherein all the Beams of the Eyes Unite. The Horizon­tal Line is a Line that proceeds from the Center of the Eye, to the Visual Point, parallel to the Horizon of the Earth.

The Distance is the space on the Base, between the Glass and Point in the Base, that lies directly under the Eyes.

The Section is a Plain of Transparent matter (as of Glass) raised upright upon the Plain of the Base standing before you, parallel to a strait Line, passing through the Convex Centers of both Eyes. Now without the understanding of this Section or Glass, tis impossible to attain to the Knowledge of Perspective, and by Consequence will not be able to give a reason for the difference betwixt the Orthographick, and Scenographick Figures.

If the Glass is placed near the Visual Point, and remote from the Object, the Figure which is seen will be very small; because all Rays comprehending the Orthographical, and Scenographical, Figures fall in­to the Visual Point, as their Common Center. If the Visual Point be more raised (though at the same Distance) the Scenographick Figure or Form will appear much larger. And by reason the Visu­al Radiations are higher, the various Perpendicu­lars raised on the Section, or Glass, cut them in wider distances, as being more remote from the Glass. If the Glass incline to the Visual Point, the Scenographick Vision will be longwise between the Visual Point and the Object; But if the Glass recline from the Visual Point, the Scenographick Figure will appear rounder, and begin to resem­ble the Orthographick. But if the Glass is fixed Equidistant to the Base, or Plain the Object stands upon, the Scenographick and Orthographick resemblance will be one and the same.

Diagonals, or Lines of Distance, are such as are drawn from the Point of Distance, to any other Point higher, or lower than the Horizon.

The Object is that Form, Body, Figure, or Building intended to be expressed in Perspective Proportions.

The General Practice of Perspective.

LEt the Object you are to draw, standing on your right Hand, be also placed on the same Hand of the Visual Point; and that on the left on the same side of the said Point and that which is opposite before in the middle of it.

Let every Line which in the Object is Strait, Parallel, or Perpendicular to its Base, be also so in its Scenographical Delineation.

Let those Lines that are in the Object Equidi­stant to the returning Line, be drawn in the Scenographical Figure, from that Point found in the Horizon.

Let the Lines which in the Object return at right Angles from the fore-right side, be drawn Sceno­graphically from the Visual Point.

The Center in any Scenographical Regular Figure, is found by drawing cross Lines from opposite Angles, for the Point where the Diagonals cross in the Center.

In Drawing a Perspective Figure, where many Lines come together, for the directing your Eye, you may draw the Diagonals in Red; the Visual Lines in Black, and the Perpendiculars in Green, or any other different Colour.

[Page 213] A Ground Plain of Squares is alike, as well a­bove, as below the Horizontal Line; Neverthe­less, the more it is distant above or below the Ho­rizon, the Squares will be so much the wider and larger.

Let all Strait Lines which in the Object return from the fore-right side, run in a Scenographical Fi­gure into the Horizontal Line.

In Drawing Arches, Circles, Crosses, Ovals, Spirals, or the like Figures in the Roof of a Room; 10 first drawing Ichnographically, and so with Perpen­diculars from the most eminent Points, carrying it up to the Ceiling; from which several Points carry on the Figure. And in setting off the height of Pedestals, Columns and the like, measure the Height from the Base-line upward, in the Front or fore-right side; and a Visual Ray drawn, that Point in the Front shall limit the Altitude of the Column all the way, behind the fore right-side, even to the Visual Point. 20

Thus having considered the Distance, Height and Position of the Figure, and drawn it according­ly, with the Side or Angle against the Base; raise Perpendiculars from the several Angles, or de­signed Points in the Figure to the Base, and transfer the length of each Perpendicular from the place where it touches the Base, on the side opposite to the Point of Distance; and so will the Diametrals drawn to the Perpendiculars in the Base by Inter­section, with the Diagonals drawn to the several 30 transferred Distances, give the Angles of the Figure: And so Lines drawn from Point to Point, will Circumscribe the Scenographical Figure.

If in a landskip there be any standing Waters or Rivers, place the Horizontal Line level with the farthest sight thereof. In Describing things at a great Distance, the proportion as to Magnitude, and Distance must be observed, which appears from the Object to the Eye. And if there be any Hou­ses, or other Edifices, consider their Position, to find from what Point in the Horizontal Line, to draw the Fronts and Sides thereof.

And Lastly, in Colouring and Shadowing of every thing, observe the same in your Picture, which you do by your Eye, especially in Objects that are near; but according as the Distance grows greater and greater, so the Colours must be faint­er and fainter, till at last they lose themselves in a Darkish Skie-colour.

Of Catoptricks, and Dioptricks.

THe Catoptricks are best seen in a common Looking-Glass, where if the Glass be exact­ly flat, the Object is in all respects like its O­riginal, or Patern; but if it is not flat, the re­semblance alters from its Original, and that more or less, as the Glass differs from an exact Plain.

In the Drawing of Catoptrical Figures, the Sur­face of the Glass is to be considered, upon which the Reflection is to be; for which you must make a particular Ichnographical Draught, which on the Glass must appear to be a Plain full of Squares; on which Projection transfer what shall be drawn, on a Plain, divided into the same Number of like Squares; where though the Draught may appear very confused, yet the Reflection thereof on the Glass, will be very proportional and reregular­ly composed.

The Dioptrick, or Broken Beam may be seen in a Tube, through a Crystal, or Glass, which hath its Surface cut into many others, whereby the Rays of the Object are broken. When these Fa­ces on a Crystal are returned towards a Plain, pla­ced directly before it, they separate themselves at a good Distance on the Plain; because they are all directed to various places, far distant places of the same.

DRAWING, AND PAINTING.

CHAP. I.
The Introduction.

THE Art of DRAWING, and PAINTING, not improperly called 10 POLYGRAPHY, so much imitateth Nature, as that by proportional Lines, with suit­able and apt Colours it represents to the Life the Forms of all Corporeal things, with their re­spective Actions, Gestures, and Passions.

It consists of three Parts, viz. Design, Proporti­on, and Colour, all which are express in as many sorts of Painting, to wit the Life, History and Landskip.

Drawing represents the shape and form of any 20 Corporeal Substance in rude Lines only, and if to Proportioned quantity Colour is added, you have the Form and Perfection of the Figure. The Proportion gives the true breadth, length, and bigness of any part in respect of the whole, shewing how they bear one to another.

The Passions of the Mind are seriously to be considered, and well understood, whereby to represent the same in the several Gestures, as Love or Hatred, Pride or Humility, Joy or Sor­row, 30 and the like.

The Original of this Art was taken from the Forms of Things that appear; expressing the same with apt and proper Colours, thereby imitating the Life. This imitation of things seen by the Eye, was very much furthered by the Idea's of things conceived in the Mind, from the continual motion of the Imitation. These Forms and Idea's were not singly considered, but complicately; And from this manner of Imitati­on 40 did arise knowledge of Designing, and from thence came the Arts of Painting, Washing, &c.

As Invention gave way to the advancement of Art, so the advancement of the same made way for its Perfection. Ease of Invention which gave Encouragement, plenty of Matter which gave Formation, and Neatness of Work which gave Delight; which was the Reasons that Art was so advanced. Likewise the ardent desire of emu­lation to excel others, together with the satis­faction of doing well, gave a large progress there­unto; Art therefore meeting with Success, created a boldness in the Spirits of Artificers to attempt the greatest things. The absolute Perfection of the Art of Painting, the excellency of Invention, Proportion, Colour, Life, Action, Passion, &c. must universally concur and conspire to bringforth that gracefulness which is the very Life of the Work, and the sum of all Perfection.

To Drawing and Painting belongs (as Hand­maids) the true knowledge of Arithmetick, Ge­ometry, Opticks, and Perspective, without which none can be brought to Perfection; and to be Vniversal Painters, they must be grounded in History, Philosophy, &c.

CHAP. II.
Of the Precepts of Drawing in general.

BE careful to be provided with all necessary things for Drawing, as Charcoals, Feathers of Ducks-Wings, Pens made of Ravens Quils, Pastils, Crions, Black and Red-Lead Pencils, Ru­lers, and Compasses; but it will be convenient to practice as much as possible without the help of the Rule and Compass, for your Eye, and Fancy should judge thereof without Artificial Measure­ings.

Thus being prepared with the aforesaid Neces­saries, together with good Vellom, Parchment, or fine thick Paper, begin with plain Geometrical Figures, as Lines, Angles, Triangles, Quadrangles, Circles, Arches, Ovals, Polygons, Cones, Cylinders, and the like, for the Circle helps in all round Forms; the Oval gives a true proportion to the Face and Mouth; the Triangle in the Half-Face; the Angles and Arches are in use in Perspective, and Architecture; the Polygon in Ground-Plats, [Page]

To the Right Honble Charles Bodvell, viscount Bodmyn Grandson and heyre to the Right Honourable Iohn Earle of Radnor &c.a

This Plate is humbly dedicated by [...] Richard Blome.

[Page] [Page 215] and Fortification; the Cone in Spires and Tops of Towers and Steeples; and the Cylinder in Pil­lars, Pilasters, and Columns.

Being expert and ready in general Proportions, endeavour to give every Object its due Shade, according to its Concavity or Convexity; and to elevate or depress the same, as the Object ap­pears either nearer or farther off the Light; and this is the Life of the Work. Next proceed to draw Fruits with their Leaves, Flowers, Trees, 10 and the like. Next to Beasts, Fowl, Fish and Insects; And being a good proficient therein, pro­ceed to Naked Figures of Men and Women: but first to the several parts of the Body; and then to Draperies, in all which be sure to imitate Na­ture as much as possible; and in drawing all the aforesaid Forms you must be expert in the exact Proportions, and in the general or Out-Lines, be­fore you venture to Shadowing.

You ought to be provided with good Patterns 20 or Copies to draw by, first using your Coal, and then more exactly with your Pencil, after you have fully examined it, found, and corrected the Faults, and this may be done by frequent Trials.

Being arrived to Perfection in these Particu­lars aforesaid, you may begin to Draw by the Life. which is the best and perfectest Copy; And in all sorts of Drawing, be sure to attain to Per­fection before you venture on Colours, for that in a short time will be attained unto, after you 30 are Master of the rest.

CHAP. III.
Directions for Drawing after a Print, or Picture.40

IN drawing after a Picture, or Print, chuse such a Light, that the reflection of the Co­lours doth not obstruct your Sight, that is, that the Light and your Eye may equally fall ob­liquely upon your Piece; and withal at such a distance, that you may see it all at once; so so that the greater your Picture is, the further distance must you place it to Draw after; and 50 let it be always before you with a little reclining.

When you first proceed to work, Draw all your Out-Lines very faint with a Charcoal, by reason you may rub them out if amiss, with your Feather, or a Piece of Bread, and so mend the Faults more easily; these Out-Lines are to be drawn very true, according to your Copies, be­fore you begin to Shadow any part thereof, and let the Out-Lines next the Light be drawn very soft and faint; Thus having Drawn one Feature, 60 and examined it well by the Copy, proceed to the rest, until you have finished the whole Draught; and think not your time long, for according to the Proverb, Haste makes Waste, for you had bet­ter bestow three Days, and do it well, than three Hours, and spoyl it; besides, slubbering over Work spoyls your Hand, and begets an Ill habit in you.

Be careful in observing the true distance of one Joynt, or Muscle, from another; as likewise their Length, Thickness, Windings, Turnings, Sha­dows, and the like.

In Drawing after Embossed, or Plaister-Works chuse a good North-Light, something above your Work: But if the Room has a South-Light, put before the Window Oiled-Paper; and if you Draw by Candle-Light, use a Lamp Shaded with Oiled-Paper, instead of a Candle, which is not so good, as growing lower and lower, and causeth the Shades to change.

In Drawing the Muscles, be sure to follow the Life, or else to have good Copies; and in that side where the Parts are most apparent in the performing any Action, the Muscles must more or less appear, according to the force of the Action. And observe, that the Muscles in Young or Fat Persons must not appear so strong and hard, as in Aged Persons; and in Women they are scarce to be exprest at all.

CHAP. IV.
Rules to be observed for the Imita­tion of the Life.

CHuse a well-shaped Man, or Woman, which must be placed in a good and graceful Pos­ture; the like Rule must be observed in all Live­ing Creatures; and first make a Schetch.

In Drawing a Face, great care is to be observed as to the Imitation of the Life; First, making the out-Lines, or Circumference of the Head and Face, either Round, Long, or Oval as the Life; then to Draw the Eyes, Nose, Mouth, and all the Touches therein, both strong and faint for the giving a Life and Spirit thereunto; in all which observe in your Draught a kind of carelessness and looseness; for a Picture that appears in any of the Joynts Stiff, or Lame, is of no Value. And in all things the Perfection of Nature must be observed.

Now for your better attaining the same, it were convenient to have the Assistance of a good Master; likewise to be furnished with excellent Draughts done by the best Masters, were not a­miss; by which the true Shape of the Body, and all its Limbs is exprest in all, or most Postures, Gesures, and Actions. But for your better di­rections for drawing a Face, having, as afore­said, drawn the Circumference thereof, make a Stroak down from that place of the Fore-head, which is even with the Chin, coming down where you should place the Middle, or Tip of the Nose, and Middle of the Mouth, which Stroak make strait down in a full right Face, but Arched, or Oval in an Oblique Face, learning that way to­wards which the Face doth Turn; then cross the Stroak about the Middle of the Eyes, either with a strait Line in a right Face, or with a Curved [Page 216] upwards or downwards, according to the Action or Posture the Face you draw is in; then make another answerable to that where the End of the Nose should come, and another for the Mouth, that it be not made crooked. In a true Propor­tioned Face, the distances are, 1. between the Top of the Fore-head, and the Eye-brows; 2. be­tween the Eye-brows, and the bottom of the Nose; and 3. between the bottom of the Nose, and the bottom of the Chin are equal. The distance be­tween 10 the Eyes is the length of one Eye, in a full Face, but in a three-quarter or half Face, tis pro­portionally lessened, and place the Nostril exactly underneath the Corners of the Eyes.

Thus having finished the several parts of the Face, with all the graceful touches, proceed to the Hair, and Beard, in which no small care must be taken in observing the Curles.

For Drawing of Hands, and Feet, with other extream Parts, First draw them faint 20 over with Coal, observing all the Joynts, Si­nues, Veyns, &c. with their Bendings, Turnings and the like; And for this Particular choose ex­cellent Prints, or Paintings, which will be very Advantageous in the perfecting your Drawing.

For Drawing the Wole Body, First begin with the Head, which must be in Proportion to the bigness you design the Whole Body, next pro­ceed to the Shoulders, then the Trunk of the Body, from the Armpits down to the Hips, and 30 then the Legs, Arms, and Hands; all which must agree together as to Symetry of Parts. Then let the Parallel Joynts, Muscles, Sinues, and Veyns be placed opposite to one another in a Strait Line, that is, Shoulder to Shoulder, Knee to Knee, and the like; and to this end draw strait Cross Lines for your better directions, observing, that which way the Body turns or bows, these Lines may accordingly answer. In like manner all Perpendicular Joynts and Parts are to be pla­ced 40 in a right Line one under another; and for your better direction therein, draw a strait Line (provided the Body be strait) from the Throat through the midst of the Breast or Privities, to the Feet, to which Line draw all those Particu­lar Points Parallels, that the Body may not ap­pear crooked, or awry.

As to Proportion, first draw out the Head in an Oval, allowing one 4th part for the Hair, one 4th part for the Fore-head and Brows, ano­ther 50 4th part for the Nose, and another 4th part for the Mouth and Chin. Having drawn the Head, measure out 8 times the length thereof, the Head making one of the eight parts, and so draw a Line from the Top of the Head to the Feet, of these 8 parts, one Heads length from the Chin, is for the Breast, another to the Navel, a­nother to the Privities, then one to the middle of the Thigh, also another to the Knee, another to the small of the Leg, and another which is 60 the 8th part to the Heel.

The breadth of the Shoulders is about 2 mea­sures of the Head; the breadth of the Hips, 2 measures of the Face; the Arms stretched out are just the length of the whole Figure, includ­ing the Breast; but without the Breasts they are but 6 Heads. The length of the Hand is exactly the length of the Face, and the Arms hanging down reaches within a Span of the Knee.

In Shadowing, let the Shadow always fall one way, that is on the same side of the Body, lea­ving the other side to the Light. Let the Shadow grow fainter and fainter according to the greatness of the distance. All Circular Bodies must have a Circular Shadow, according to their Form, or appearance, and the Orbicular Shadow of the Object which casteth it. When contrary Shadows concur, let the meanest and most Solid Body be first served; and in double and treble Shadows, let the first Line be very dry, for fear of blotting be­fore you cross them. All perfect Lights receive no Shadow at all, but being manifest, are only to be made apparent by that Body which receives them, whose Shadow must be according to the Efflux of Light.

In drawing of Muscles the Motion of the whole Body is to be considered; In the rising and fall­ing of the Arms, the Muscles of the Breasts more or less appear; the like doth the Hips accord­ing as they bend outwards or inwards; and the same chiefly in the Shoulders, Sides, and Neck, according to the several Actions of the Body, all which alterations are to be carefully observed. These ensuing Figures shew the same in seve­ral sorts of Gesture, with the Poise of the Body sutable thereunto.

CHAP. V.
Of Drapery.

FIrst draw the greatest and Principal Folds, which must be continued through the whole Garment; the lesser you may break off, and shor­ten at pleasure; and let them Cross one another. Likewise all the Folds must consist but of two Lines, which may be turned with the Garment as you please, Shawdowing the innermost deep­er, and the outermost more light.

Let your Garments be sutable to, and bend with the Body in any Posture; and the closer the Garment sits to the Body, the narrower and smaller must the Folds be; and that part of the Garment which sits close to the Body must not be Folded, but only sweetly Shadowed, whereby the Body that is under it may be represented.

The Folds, or Plaits ought to run out every way, like Branches or Arms from the Body of a Tree, and in such sort that there be no part of the Garment without some Folds.

The Nature and Disposition of Light ought to be examined, especially as it hath Relation to the Sun, or any bright Body, for that Colours cannot be seen but in the Light; for Example, Sup­pose Blue be equally dispersed through all the parts of a Garment, yet when it is illustrated by any Light, it causeth one kind of Brightness in that part where it strikes strongly: Another kind of Lustre where it strikes more weakly; and another in that part where it yet shines less. The Lights are made by mixing a greater or lesser quantity of White to the Blue; and Darker, by [Page]

To the Right Worshipfull Sr. Henry Hobart of Blickling in norfolk Knight and Baronet, Son and heyre to Sr. John Hobart of the said Place Baronet deceased.

This Plate is humbly dedicated by Richard Blome.

[Page] [Page]

Painting

To the Right Worshippfull St John Osborne of Chicksand in ye County of Bedford Baronet

This Plate is humbly Dedicated by Ric: Blome.

[Page] [Page]

Painting

To The Honourable Collonell Robert Feilding of Feilding Hall in the County of Warwick

This Plate is humbly dedicated by Richard Blome.

[Page] [Page]

PAINTING

To the Worshipfull Edward Montague of Horton in ye County of Northampton Es̄ [...]

This plate is humbly dedicated by Ric. Blome.

[Page] [Page 217] adding some of the darkest Blue, as Indico to the Verditer, or Bice. But where the Light shines only by Reflection, there only mix so much Sha­dow as to express that Counterfeit Light, losing it self (as it were) by degrees, always observing, that you make you Light and Shadow to agree. For this reason there must be more Light in fine Draperies, as those of Taffety, Cambrick, Cypress, and the like, in which the Folds must be small, loose, and waving, as if blown with the Wind, 10 as appears by Womens Garments, which fall close to their Bodies on that side where the Wind blow­eth, and raised up on the other side. And con­trary-wise, Gross and Heavy Shadows are in stiff Cloaths; as of Cloth, Plush, Velvet, Cloth of Gold, and Silver, and the like; upon which the Air can have little or no force, so that the Folds are few, and gross. The Folds for Stuffs, and Fine Cloth, are (as it were) a Mean between both, and may be made as if moved by the Wind, like 20 unto Silks.

CHAP. VI.
Of Colours; and the Ordering them.30

HAving treated of Draughts, my purpose in the next place shall be to treat of the true Order, and Manner of the Colours; the Means to prepare them for the Pencil, and to cleanse them from their corrupt Mixture, where­withal they are sophisticated, whereby the Pra­ctitioner may be able for their better Illustration to put them into apt and fitting Colours, as well for distinctions sake, as the delight of the Be­holder; 40 which is a full perfection of a Picture. For by the assistance of Colours (if Judiciously ordered) Angry People will look of a fiery, dis­contented Countenance, and the Melancholy of a pale Aspect: The same will appear in all sorts of Beasts, and Fowls.

The Definition of Colours, and how many Kinds there are.50

ARistotle defineth Colour, to be a visible quan­tity limited in the Surface, or Extremity of a dark Body, which before it be lightned, is visible only in Possibility, and by the benefit of Light may be actually seen.

The Names of the Colours.

Cerus,Whites.Masticot,Yel­lows.
White-Lead,Yellow-Oaker,
Slat-White,English-Oaker,
Yellow-Otment,
India-Lake,Reds.Sap-Green,Greens
Kermine,Green-Bice,
Vermilion,Cedar-Green,
Red-Lead,Spanish-Green,
Red-Oaker,Verditerra,
Cherrystone,Blacks.
Lamp-black,
Ivory,Vmber,Browns.
Indico,Blews.Spanish-Brown,
Vltramarine,Terra-Dicoloria
Bice,Terra Lemnia,
Smalt,
Verditer,

60

In this Account of Colours, I forbear to speak of Verdigrease, Orpment, and several others, as being unnecessary, or dangerous, by reason of their unnatural Quality, or else for their course and greasie Body, not suffered to accompany with the other Colours, as being of a more fine, subtile, and transparent Nature.

There are yet omitted divers other Colours, as Saffron, &c. (which are very good to be used) besides some others, which are Extractions from Flowers, Juice of Herbs, or Roots, which by reason of their Cheapness are esteemed fitter for those that wash Prints and Maps, than for Limning; yet of these, or the like Extractions, from Flowers, Herbs, &c. though they be esteemed of so small value, nevertheless they are exceeding good and pleasant; (if rightly extracted.) There are also Colours which proceed from Berries, as Bay-Berries, French-Berries, &c. that make a good Yellow. Other Colours that are made of Woods, as Brazil, Log-wood, and the like, which make good Reds, I have also omitted other Colours, as Purples, Murreys, &c. by reason they are compounded and made of those aforesaid, of which I shall treat in a place more conveni­ent.

WHITE-LEAD, or FLAKE-WHITE, is better than Cerus, and less subject to Incon­veniences, which may be mended as follow­eth.

CERVS will many times (after it is wrought) tarnish, starve, and dye; and that which you laid on with the Pencil for a fair White, will within a few Months become Rusty, Reddish, or incline to a Yellow.

White-Lead well ground (which it must be) will glister too much; if course ground, is un­serviceable.

The Remedies against these Inconveniences is thus prevented: Before you begin to Grind them, set them (especially the White-Lead) in the Sun two or three Days to dry, which will draw away the Salt and Greasie commixture, that poysons the Colours; besides, you must scrape away the Superficies of the White-Lead, leaving only the middle part, which is the best. You must be careful of this Colour, it being the Ground of all the other Work, and the loss, or safety, as daily Experience teacheth.

The Colours being thus dryed in the Sun, grind them on a Prophire, Serpentine, or Peble.

When they are ground very fine (and that in some good quantity, only in Water without Gum) make ready a piece of thick white Chalk, wherein make certain little Holes, in every one of which put the White thus ground, and as soon as you have taken it off the Stone all wet as it is, let it remain till it dry, and you shall find that [Page 218] the Chalk will suck away the filthiness, or grea­siness, and the Salt, which is the greatest spoil of this Colour. When it is throughly dryed, keep it in clean Paper, or Boxes, for your use.

When you would Work, take thereof as much as will lye upon a Mussel-shell, and put to this Colour (as indeed to all others) a little Gum-Arabick, the whiter the better, which must be dissolved in fair Water, (about two Ounces is 10 enough to make a Pint of the Water) with which you are to temper your Colours. But Verditer, Smalt, Bice, Red-Lead, and some others, require a greater proportion of the Gum to a Pint of Water, as being of a more grittish and course Nature; otherwise they will not so well bind to the Paper, or Vellum. If you put too much Gum in the Water, the Colours will shine; and if too little, they will come off.

If you leave any Colour in the Shell, let it not 20 be too Liquid, but something Clammy; then cover it to keep it from Dust, and so let it dry.

Some Colours are to be Ground, and some Washed; those to be Ground, must be used as aforesaid.

Colours to be Ground.Colours to be Washed.
Cerus.Red-Lead.
White-Lead.Smalt.
Indico.Blue-Bice.
Indian-Lake.Vltra-marine.
English-Oker.Verditer.
Pink.Masticot.
Spanish-Brown.Cedar-Green
Collens-Earth.Green-Bice.
Ivory.Sap-Green is to be
Vmber.steeped in Gum-water only.
Cherrystone. 

30

INDIA LAKE must be Ground as the rest,40 and temper it in your Shell with Gum-water; and to avoid the cracking, and flying from the Shell, which this Colour, Vmber, and some others, are subject unto; Take a little fine Powder of White Sugar-Candy, and with it, and a little fair Water, temper the Colour over again with your Finger, until the Candy be dissolved.

It is an excellent Crimson Colour, and very good to shadow Vermillion withal, as also the deep 50 Shades of yellow Garments. It is a good Sky-Colour, if you mix some White-Lead with it; also it makes good Flesh-Colours, by adding thereto some White, Red-Lead, and English-Oker, as hereafter shall be treated of. But by reason of the Dearness, you may use Couchaneil, or Couchaneil-Cakes, which are to be sleeped in Gum-water, and the Juice or Liquor that comes from them makes the Colour. Also Red-Ink made of Brazil, will make a pretty good Red for ordinary 60 uses.

VERMILLION is a fair and perfect Scarlet-Colour; and if you would have it good, buy it Unground, or see it Ground, otherwise they will spoil it, by putting thereto Red-Lead; and to make it bright put in some Clarified Honey. This Colour is chiefly for Garments.

RED-LEAD makes a good Orange-Colour, by putting thereto a small quantity of yellow Berries. This Colour is used for Buildings, and High-ways, in Landskips, being mixt with a little Cerus. It is also used to Colour any Light Ground in a Picture; But take only the thin Wa­ter of it. This Colour is of great use for the Shadows in yellow Garments, it is very good to make Flesh-Colours, as also for several other oc­casions in Miniature.

ENGLISH-OKER serves for the Life, Draperies, the Hair, Rocks, and for the High-Ways in Landskips: It lieth well in the Shell if fine Ground.

PINK must be the finest you can get, be­cause with it, and Blue-Bice, you are to make your fairest Greens for Landskips, and Draperies; for the Colour of Green-Bice, and the transparency of Sap-Green, Spanish-Green, &c. doth make them in many things unserviceable; especially where you have occasion to use beautiful Greens, which at your pleasure you may make Light, or Sad, by mixing a little Indico, or Bice, with the Pink.

VMBER is not to be used, unless burnt in a Crucible, and being well Ground it worketh well. It is a good Colour for the Hair, as also for the Shades of the Bodies of Trees, &c. It is the best and brightest Colour when burnt, as aforesaid; but if you would colour any Beast, it must not be burnt. It is also used for the Bodies of Trees, Boards, or the like Wooden things, as also the Dark-ground in a Picture.

SPANISH-BROWN is a course Colour, yet of great use for Shadowing Vermillion, or to lay upon any Dark-ground behind a Picture, or to Shadow yellow Berries in the Darkest places; but instead of this you may use Vmber, which mix with Red-Lead, and a little quantity of Lake makes the same Colour.

CVLLENS-EARTH worketh well when it is new Ground, and is especially to close up the last, and deepest Touches in the shadowy place of Pictures by the Life.

CHERRY-STONE, and IVORY-BLACK, are both to be burnt in a Crucible. Cherry-stone Black is very good for Draperies, and black Ap­parel; but if you use it to make a Satin, it must be tempered with a little white India-Lake, and Indico, but only to make it appear with a beau­tiful Gloss, which heightned with a little Lighter mixter of a more Whitish in strong Touches, and hard Reflexions, and deepned with Ivory, will shew very fair.

Ivory serves for a Velvet Black, and is not ea­sy to be wrought with, unless Tempered with Sugar-Candy, to keep it from Cracking. Note, that you never put any Black amongst your Co­lours to make them Dark, for that will make them seem dirty; but Black may be permitted for a Shadow to Spanish Brown.

BLVE-BICE is an excellent Colour, if well washed, as hereafter shall be shewed, which will serve in stead of Vltramarine. With this you may make divers Colours, as Purples, Greens, &c. This Colour doth make a light for Vltramarine; nay you may use it for a Shade, and for the Lights add white Cerus, by which you may make it as light [Page 219] or as deep as you please, by the greater or les­ser quantity of Cerus. This is also a Shadow for Blue Verditer.

VLTRAMARINE is a dear and preci­ous Colour, and not fit for ordinary Uses; but if you would bestow Pains, and Curiosity in your Piece, then use it.

SMALT makes the same Colour as Vltrama­rine, but it is a Course, and gritish Colour; there­fore choose the finest, and wash it well.10

BLVE-VERDITER is a light Blue, and very apt to lose its Colour; therefore not good, except for Greens.

INDICO is a dark Blue, and used most for Shades; it is very good to Colour the Waves of the Sea.

MASTICOT is a light Yellow, and ve­ry good for Garments, but choose the finest, and let it be well wash't: There are several sorts of Masticots, as Light and Sad. 20

LITTMOSE is a very fair Blue, it is to be steeped in Sope-Lees, in which it will dissolve, and make a Fine Azure Colour, with which Water you may Diaper, and Dammask upon all other Blues; as also upon Sanguines, to make them shew more Fair and Beautiful; and when this Blue Wa­ter is dry, you may moisten it as often as you please with more of the said Water.

YELLOW BERRIES is of that great Use, being of so Bright a Colour, and Transpa­rent 30 a quality, that it is fit for all Uses. These Berries are to be steeped in Alome Water, and are made Lighter and Darker by the less quanti­ty of Water, and the greater of these Berries. This Yellow being of a Thin Body, is most fit for Washing Prints.

CAMBOGEVM is an excellent Yellow, being of a Transparent, and bright quality; it is dissolved in Fair Water; of this, as also of Yellow Berries, are made exceeding fair and pleasant 40 Greens; It is also good to brighten Vermillion, a small quantity being mixt with it.

SAFFRON is a deep Yellow, and fit to Shadow Cambogeum, and Yellow Berries. It is steep­ed in Gum Water, or else in Fair Water made warm, being set on a moderate Fire, and so use it hot, which is best, for when it is cold, it will not work half so well, neither is the Colour so good; this Colour is also only fit for the wash­ing Prints and Maps. 50

You may make such a like Colour with Red Lead, and Yellow Berries.

GREENS are generally made of several Colours, as for Example, Cambogeum, or Yellow Berries mixt with Blue Verditer, makes a Fair light Green; for a darker instead of Verditer put in Bice or Vltramarine; and for the darkest of all, use Indico. Also for a Fair and Transparent Green, use distilled Verditer, or Verdigreace boi­led in Vinegar; which you may make as light as 60 you please, by putting therein Yellow Berries, or Cambogeum.

Of these you may make about 20 several Greens, lighter or darker as you please, by the Addition of more or less of the Blues.

Also Pink is very good to make Greens, especi­ally the Grass-Green; the Shade is made with Pink and Indico.

FRENCH-GREEN is made of Pink and Indico, the Shade is Indico.

POPINJA-GREEN is made of Pink and Indico, but a greater quantity of Pink.

SEA-GREEN is made of Bice, Pink and White, it is Shadowed with Indico, and in this nature you may make sundry sorts of Greens ac­cording to your use.

There are several other sorts of Greens, I shall only name them.

SAP-GREEN is a dirty dark Green, and of little use, except to Shadow in the dark places; but Yellow Berries and Indico do make the same Colour, and far better. This Colour is to be steeped in Vinegar, and so used.

SPANISH-GREEN is very good and pleasant Green, it must be steeped in Gum-Water, letting it stand in some warm place for 20, or 30, Days, this is good for Trees, being of a shining nature; it is of a Blewish Colour, Yellow Berries or Cambogeum being mixt with it, makes it better; but do not mix any Yellow in it, but only as you use it, so that you may make it as light as you please, for the light Shades, it serving of it self for the dark ones. This Colour is Poyson, so that care ought to be taken in using it. It is very good to be used in Landskips, in those places that seem a great distance off. Blue Verditer doth almost make the same Colour, but not so Transparent, there­fore not so good.

COPPER-GREEN is also a Transpa­rent and Glossy Colour, it is thickned on a gentle Fire. It is most used for Washing Prints, being ve­ry good for Trees, or Grass, it being of so per­fect a Grass-Green Colour.

SPANISH, or FLAKE-WHITE is the best White, if it be good and well ground; this being added to any other Colour, doth make it become lighter, so that the Colour it self may be the Shade; as by puting this Colour to Indian Lake, is made a Blush, so likewise to Vltramarine or Bice; for it is not only of use to make Lights to them, but also to make them go far.

For as much as there is a natural Concord, and Discord between the Colours themselves, insomuch that if some Colours be mixed, will suddainly spoil each other; I think it convenient to set down such as agree together, by which with the Practitioners Experience, may soon arrive to the mixture there­of; not that I intend to limit out the exact quan­tity of Colours to be mixed, being but to shew that Colours serve for the true expressing of all Na­tural things.

Colours that are Compounded and made of others.

COrnation, is made of Lake and White; the Shadow is Lake.

Scarlet, is Vermillion, and the Shadow, Lake.

Violet, is made of Bice, and Lake, the Shadow Indico.

Purple, is made of Lake, Bice, and White; the Shadow Indico, and Lake.

Skie-Colour, is Bice, and White; the Shadow Bice.

AshColour, is made of Lamb-Black, and White; the Shadow Lamb-Black.

[Page 220] Straw-Colour is made of good quantity of Pink, Saffron, White, and Vermillion; the Shadow Lake.

Orange-Tawny is made of Vermillion, or Red Lead, Masticot and Pink; the Shadow Lake.

Light Hair-Colour is made of Oker, Vmber and Black; the Shadow Vmber and Black.

For changeable Silk, the Water of Masticot, and Red Lead for the Lightning, and deepen the same with Sap Green. 10

Also a Light Blue lightned with White, and deepned with Lake.

For White Sat [...]en, Flake White, or fine Cerus, deep­ned with Cheristone Black, hightned again with the said White where the Light doth fail.

For Black Satten, Cheristone Black and White, deepned again with Cheristone Black, and lastly, with Ivory Black.

For Black Velvet, lay your Garment over with Ivory Black, and then highten it with Cherystone 20 Black, with a little White.

For Cloth of Gold, use Brown Oker, and Liquid Gold Water, heightning the same with small Stroaks of Gold.

Out of Masticot, Vmber, Flake-White, or Cerus, Yellow-Oker, Spanish-Brown, Red-Oker and Black, are made all sorts of Hair-Colours.

To make a Peach-Colour, take Brazil Water, Logwood Water, and Flake-White, or Cerus.

To make a Crane Colour, mix the said White 30 with Blue. This Colour is also made with Black Lead, being ground with Gum-Water.

Vermillion and Lake makes the colour of a ripe Strawbery, and a Red Rose, and by adding a lit­tle White, makes it a Damask Rose, and by a greater quantity of White a Blush Colour.

All these, and the like Mixtures are lightned, darkned, or diversly varied according as they are mixed; that is, in a Mixture of 2 or 3 Colours, that of which there is, the greatest part will 40 Predominate; also White being more or less added to any Colour, doth much vary, and alter them, as well as lighten them.

In this Nature, by your Practice you may know how to mix and compound all other Colours you have use of.

Flesh Colours are thus made; for a fair Compex­on use White, a little Lake, with a little Red Lead mixt together; it may be made as light, or as red as you please, by putting thereto more or less 50 White. The Shadows of the Face, as the Cheeks, &c. are made by adding a little more Lake and Red Lead. If you would have it of a swarthy Complexion, to distinguish a Mans from a Womans, add a little Yellow Oker; and for the Shadow put in a little more Lake, with a small quantity of Burnt Vm­ber.

To make Colours for the Sky.60

TAke light Masticot, for the lowest and high­est places Couchaniel, or Red Ink not thickned, and White for the next Degree, Blue Bice and White for the next, and for the highest of all, Blue Bice, or Vltramarine; all these must be so laid on, and incorporated one into another, that you may not receive any sharpness in the edge of your Co­lour, or to perceive where you first began to lay them on, as being so mixed one into another.

For the Colour of the Clouds, Blue Verditer may sometimes be used, and White Shadowed with the said Verditer: Sometimes Lake and White, or Red Ink and White, Shadowed with Blue Verditer; and sometimes light Masticot, Sha­dowed with Blue Verditer or Bice.

What Shadows ought to be used to every Colour.

BUt by the way, take this for a General Rule, That every Colour is made to Shadow it self, either by taking the thinnest of the Colour, which ser­veth for the light, and so to Shadow it with the Thick; or else by mixing thereto a little White for the light, and so Shadow it with the Colour it self: But if you would have your Shades to be darker than the Colour it self, for the deep and hard Shades, then follow these Instructions.

Lake is not to be shadowed with any other Co­lour, it being the darkest and deepest Red; but for Variety, you may Shadow it sometimes with Vl­tramarine, Bice, or Verditer, which will make it shew to be changeable Taffety; and by adding thereto some White, you may make several Lights.

Vermillion, is Shadowed with Lake, Spanish Brown, or Couchaneil Cakes.

Red Lead, is Shadowed with Spanish Brown.

Red-Oker, is Shadowed with Lake.

Vmber, is Shadowed with some Black mixt with the Vmber.

Spanish-Brown, is Shadowed with thin Black; but it is not of use in bright Garments.

Black, is not to be Shadowed, with any other Co­lour, but for Lights use it thinner.

Blue Verditer, is Shadowed with Bice, Vltrama­rine, or thin Indico.

Blue Bice, is Shadowed with Vltramarine, and in the deepest places, with Indico.

Vltra-marine is a very deep Blue, and not to be used but for Shades: There may be Lights made of it, as before shewed, by adding to it some White.

Smalt is a deep Blue, and chiefly used for Shades; but it may be Shadowed with In­dico.

Indico is only fit to shadow other Blues with.

Masticot is to be shadowed with the thin Water of Red-Lead; and is also shadowed with Saf­fron.

Yellow-Berries are naturally shadowed with Vmber; but for the better Beauty, it is shadowed with Red Lead, or Saffron, and in the deep places with Spanish Brown, or Lake. Sometimes for varieties sake it is shadowed with Blue Verditer, or Bice; and sometimes with thick Copper Green, or indeed with any other bright and pleasant Colour.

Cambogeum is to be shadowed with the same Colours, as the Yellow-Berries.

Saffron is shadowed with Lake, or thick Red Ink.

Yellow Oker is shadowed with burnt Oker.

Copper-Green is shadowed with Indico, and yellow Berries, or else with Sap-Green.

Spanish Green is shadowed with Copper Green.

[Page 221] Green Verditer, is shadowed with Copper-Green, and in the darkest places with Sap Green.

Sap-Green, is only used to shadow other Greens. There are several other Greens as hath been treated of, which I shall here omit.

Cerus, White-Lead or Flake-white, are shadowed which a small quantity of Black, mixt therewith, or a shadow is made with some Blue-Bice, and white.

Thus having given you the shadows to every Colour; in the next place, I shall proceed to such 10 Colours that set off best together.

What Colours set off best together.

REds set off well with Greens Yellows, Whites, and Blues; but best with Blues and Yellows. They set off not well with Purples, Blacks or Browns.

Blues set off well enough with Yellows, Browns, Reds, Whites, and Blacks. They set off best with Reds, Browns, and Whites. But not well 20 with Purples and Greens.

Yellows set off well with deep Blues, Reds, Browns, and Purples; they set off not well with Whites, Blacks or light Greens, but best with Reds, and Blues.

Greens set off well with Reds, Browns, and Purples; they set off best with Reds and Purples, but not well with Whites, Blacks and Blues.

Browns set off well with no Colour, but worst with Black. 30

Blacks set off well with any Colour, except Browns.

Whites set off well with all Colours.

How to make Changables.

CHangables are such kind of Paintings whose Lights are of one Colour, and their shadows of another; which is very delight-ful to the Eye, by reason of the Variety of Colours therein used, according to the several Degrees of Light, which 40 are commonly three; In the first whereof Simple White is used alone for the Light.

In the first Degree White may be shadowed with faint Yellow, Pink mixt, Light Green, Light Blue, Light Purple, Light Ash-colour, Flame Co­lour, Light Tawny, and Light Red.

In the second Degree the Light Colours, that serve for shadows (in the first Degree where the Lights of Changables are,) White must be sha­dowed in this sort, with deeper Colours, as with 50 Purples, Straw-colour, Oaker, Sad Ash-colour, Tawny, Bice, Pink, Vermillion, Red-lead, and Spanish-brown.

And in the third Degree those Colours which serve for shadows in the second Degree, are again shadowed with other deeper and darker, as Vmber, Lake, Indico, Smalt; and lastly, as White hightneth them, so doth Black shadow them.

In the next place, I shall give you some direct­tions for the Grinding and Washing of your Colours. 60

Grinding of Colours.

COlours are to be Ground upon a Peble-stone, or some other that is hard, for the hardest is the best; then Grind them with fair Water without Gum, and when they are very Fine Ground, put them upon a Chalk-stone to dry, and reserve them in Boxes, or Papers for your use.

Washing of Colours.

THe reason why Colours are to be washed, and not Ground, is because they are of so san­dy, loose, and gravelly a Quality, and of so heavy, and Solid Bodies that they can hardly be reduced to the fineness by Gringding as is required; besides that way they presently become starved and dead; and Masticot and Red Lead becomes greasy, clammy, and utterly unserviceable. But to proceed.

Take an Ounce or two of Read Lead, put it in­to an Earthen-dish full of pure Water, stir it for a while together with a Spoon till the Water be all Coloured, then let it stand a little, and there will be on the Water a greasy Scum, which toge­ther with the Water cast away, then fill the Ba­son with Fresh Water, and stir it as before, till the Water be thick and troubled, which done, before it be half setled pour it out into another Dish, reserving behind in the other Bason, the Dregs and setling of the Colour, which cast away, for you are to seek not much, but good; if a Pound of it will yield 2 or 3 Shells of fine Colour, it is sufficient. The troubled, and Coloured Water be­ing cast into the second Dish, put more Water to it, and wash it as the former, then let it settle until it be clean, and so pour off the Water, washing it again and again, if any Scum arise you may make 4 or 5 sorts, still pouring half the thick­ned Water into other Dishes, and washing them as aforesaid; when you have washed it enough, and the Colour is quite setled, pour off the Wa­ter, and let the fine Colour dry; then with a fine Feather take off the finest part of the Colour, re­serving it for your curious Works, and the other for that which is more course. You must tem­per them with Gum Water for your use, as afore­said. What is said for washing Red Lead may be said for the washing all other Colours.

Rules for the tempering of your Colours.

1 IN Tempering, or Mixing your Colours have a great care not to put your Pencils out of one Colour into another, for that will make them dirty, and Spoil them; for prevention of which, have by you at your working a Poringer, or Pan of Fair Water to wash your Pencils in, when you have done with any Colour, so that it will be clean to put into any other.

2. In Mixing your Colours, stir them about well in the Shell, with your Pencil, before you Mix them together, for the Thick is not good as well as the Thin, but let the Water be well Co­loured, and all of a thickness; then pour them into a Shell together; but first pour in your light­est Colour, by which you will know how much of the Sad will serve you turn.

3. In Mixing your Colours be careful that you make it not too Sad, for then it is hard to recover it without spoiling; therefore when you have oc­casion to Mix any Sad Colour with those that are Light, put in but a little and a little of the Sad Colour, until you find it Sad enough for your [Page 222] purpose; but if it be too Light you may make it as Sad as you please, by adding the greater quan­tity of Sad Colour thereunto.

4. Black is unfit to be Mixt with any Colour, except White, by reason of its unpleasantness, making all other Colours dirty.

CHAP. VII.10
Rules for laying on your Colours.

LAy on your Colours so smooth with your Pencil, that they may be all of one thick­ness; for to lye thick in one place, and thin in a­nother is odious; therefore you ought to have 20 a quick hand to lay them smooth before they dry, for being once dry 'tis hard to make them smooth; and to that end take your Pencils pretty full of Colour, especially when you are to cover a Garment all over; (otherwise not) for by this means you may be the better able to lay them smooth.

Some Colours are harder to lay on than other, as Red Lead, Bice, Verditer, Smalt, &c. as being of a more Sandy and grittish a nature, so that the greater care ought to be taken therein.30

Always lay on the Lightest Colour first, and then proceed to the shadows.

Directions for bestowing your Lights.

LEt all your Lights be placed one way in the whole Work; as if the Light falls side ways on your Picture, and you must make the other side, as being farthest from the Light darkest, and so let your Lights be placed altogether on the one side,40 and not in confusion, as by making of both sides alike Lightned, as if it stood in the midst of ma­ny Lights, for the Light doth not with all its bright­ness illuminate any more than that part, which is directly opposite to it.

Another Reason is taken from the Nature of your Eye; for the first part of the Body coming thereunto with a bigger Angle, is more distinctly seen; so likewise the second part be­ing 50 further off, comes to the Eye in a lesser Angle, and being lesser lightned is not so plainly seen as the first. By this Rule, if you are to Draw two or three Men standing together, one behind another, although all of them receive equally the Light, yet the second being farther from the Eye must of necessity be made darker than the first, and the third most dark.

That part of the Body that standeth farthest out must be made lightest, by reason it cometh nearest the Light, and the Light loseth so much 60 of its brightness, by how much any part of the Body bends inwards; because those Parts that stick out do hinder the brightness of the Light from those Parts that fall more inward: There­fore how much one Part of the Body sticks out beyond the other, it must be made so much lighter▪ and if it falls more inward▪ it must be made so much darker. Also, that Part of the Body must be made lightest that hath the Light most directly opposite to it; as if the Light be placed above the Head, then the Top of the Head must be the lightest, the Shoulders less light, and so losing by degrees.

Sattins, Silks, or the like bright shining Stuffs which have certain bright Reflexions exceeding Light, sudden bright Glances, especially where the Light falls brightest; and so the Reflexions are less bright, by how much the Garment falls more in­ward from the Light.

Directions about choosing Pencils.

LEt your Pencils be clean, sharp Pointed, not cleaving in two, but full and thick next the Quill, and so descending into a round and sharp Point: If you find any one Hair longer than another, take it away with the Flame of a Candle. You can't be without two Dozen of Pencils at the least for all your Colours, and their Shadows.

Those Pencils that you use for Gold and Sil­ver, keep them only for that purpose.

CHAP. VIII.
The Table to Work on, for Minia­ture; with the Manner of Working.

LEt it be an ordinary plain Card, or a pure thick and smooth Velom; Polish them well, and with thin white Starch passe on it a piece of an Abortive, the outside outwards, and when it is dry▪ Polish it as followeth: Make clean your Grinding-Stone, and lay the Table the Parchment-side downwards on it, and so Polish it with a Tooth on the Backside, and then that side that is towards the Stone will be very smooth, and good to Work on.

Lay on your Card thus prepared, a Primer of Flesh Colour, before you begin to Work, tempered according to the Complexion of the Party whose Picture you are to Draw. If Fair, you may temper the Complexion with White, Lake, and Red Lead mingled together to a pretty quantity; but if your Complexion be Brown, then mingle with the White and Red a little fine Masticot, or English Oker, or both; but be sure this Ground, or Primer, be fairer than the Complexion of the Party whose Picture you Draw; for you may darken it in Limning, but not lighten it, for the general way is to Work them down whole.

The Ground thus tempered, lay on the Card with a greater Pencil than ordinary; but lay it on smooth and clean from Spots, Hairs, or Dus [...]. Remember to fill your Pencil full of Colour, and rather thin and waterish, than thick; and with two or three Sweeps lay it on very quick, and cover rather more than less, lest [Page 223] you be not able to follow the same Colour after­wards. Besides, if you be long in laying on the Ground, the Abortive will become rough, and rise from the Card.

Next, take a pretty large Shell of Mother of Pearl, and before you begin to Work, temper certain little heaps of several Shadows for the Face, and lay them handsomly severed about the Borders of the Shell. Some temper them as they Work them; but this Way is more Metho­dical,10 and will save you more Labour in Work­ing.

First then, remember that in all these Shadows you mingle some little White, for the Red in the Cheeks, Lips, &c. temper Lake, Red Lead, and a little White together, for the Blue Indico and White: But note, that neither Bice, nor any Black, is used in the Face.

For the fine Bluish and Grayish Colours, which are the faintest and weakest Shadows, 20 take White, a little English Oaker, and a little Indi­co, (and if you will) add a little Masticot, or Pink, which will give that Shadow a good Grace, so it be not too Green; for the deeper Shadows, White English Oaker, and Vmber; and for the dark and hard Shadows in many Pictures use Lake, and Pink, mixt with Vmber; they make an excel­lent and Fleshy Shadow. The varieties of Sha­dows are so great, that no certain Rule can be given for them, your own Discretion and Obser­vation 30 of the Life must be your best Guide.

The Light to Work by.

LEt it be somewhat Clear, and Darkish, with soft and gentle Reflexions upon the Party you Draw; for hard and bright Lights make hard and unpleasant Shadows. Let your Light (if conveniently you can) be towards the North; let it be high, and let the Shadows fall sloping 40 downwards, rather than traverse; for so your Work will be rounder and fairer. Place your self to your desire, that the Light may strike Side-long from the Left-hand to the Right; and observe, that in all your Work it will shew to the best advantage, being turned and seen to the same Light it was wrought to. Let a Saucer of clean Water be always on your Right-hand vvhere-withal to wash your Pencils, together vvith a 50 dry Brush-Pencil to cleanse your Work from Dust, and a sharp Penknife to take away such Spots, or Hairs, as may mix vvith your Colours. You may likewise cover your Picture vvith a small Paper, whereon to try your Pencil before you begin.

All things thus accommodated, Draw the Lines or Perfile of the Face very faint, vvith Lake and White mixt, for you may mend it then vvith a stronger Stroak. The Line thus Drawn (in vvhich be exact) observe the deeper and more remark­able 60 Shadows, and vvith some faint Colour of Lake and White, give some slight Touches some­vvhat roughly of those Shadows for your better Memory.

The Lines of the Face thus Drawn somewhat sharp and neat, Draw out the fashion and posture of that Part of the Body that you intend to add to the Face, vvhich commonly is not lower than the Shoulders. And this you may Draw vvith a darker Colour.

CHAP. IX.
The first Sitting, and Lead-Colour­ing.

AT the first only Dead-colour the Face, not medling vvith Hand, or Apparel. This first Sitting vvill take up three or four Hours, to be exact; the second Sitting vvill take up four or five Hours; for in about that time you are to go over the Face curiously, observing vvhatsoever may conduce to the likeness (vvhich is the prin­cipal thing,) or the Judicious Colouring and Ob­servation of the several Graces, Beauties, or De­formities of the Face, as they appear in Nature; or else in close, sharp, neat, elegant Workmanship, vvith sweetness of the Shadows, and smooth Touching of the Colours.

The third Sitting is commonly a Work of about two or three Hours, and is spent in closing vvhat vvas before Imperfect, and Rough; but principally in giving to every deep Shadow the strong Touches and Deepning, as well in the dark Shadow of the Face, as in the Eyes, Eye-brows, Hair, &c. and these Touches and Obser­vations are always the last part of your business, and never to be done until all the Apparel, Hair, &c. be finished; for this being done vvith Judgment, addeth exceedingly to the Life, and roundness of the Picture.

Of Lead Colouring.

LEad Colouring, must be done the roughest and boldest of all; having Drawn the Face with Lake and White as aforesaid, take the said Colour with Vermillion, Tempering it to the Colour of Red in the Cheeks and Lips, but very faintly; for remember that both in this and in all Colours of Limning, you may add when you please, to make your Colour Deeper or Stronger, but ne­ver make your Colour too deep; for then you can hardly help it, without spoiling or defacing your Picture; because, as I have said, you never ligh­ten in this Art, except the two specks in the Eyes, and a little of the Hair. The first Colour you are to begin the Face with, is the Reds of the Cheeks and Lips somewhat strongly, the bot­tom of the Chin; if the party be Beardless, over and under the Eyes you will perceive a delicate and Faint Redness, and underneath the Eyes, inclining somwhat to a Purple Colour, which in Fair and Beautiful Faces is ordinary, and must be carefully observed. The Ear is commonly Reddish, and sometimes the Roots of the Hair; all this you must work after the manner of Washing, or Hatch­ing, drawing the Pencil along, and with Facility and gentle Stroaks, rather washing and wiping it, [Page 224] than with pricks to pick it, as many affect to do: But the manner of working must be the Fruit of your own Industry; for now Rule can be prescri­bed for it, beyond your natural Dexterity.

To conclude, in your Dead Colouring, wash over and cover your Ground, and Complexion with this Red, and the following, Shadows, not coming to be exact, but rather bold and judicious; for though it be never so rough at the first, yet its in your power to make it neat in the close. The Red be­ing 10 thus done, the next Work is the Faint Blues, about the Corners of the Eyes, and the Grayish and Bluish Shadows under the Eyes; and about the Temples, which in like manner you are to work, from the uppermost part of the Face, almost all o­ver, but exceeding Faint, by degrees sweetning your Shadows, or deepning it as the Lights fall hard or gentle. In going over the Face, be sure to make out the hard Shadows in the dark side of the Face, under the Nose, Chin, and Eye-brows; 20 and as the Light falleth with somwhat strong Touch­es in these places, bring up your Work together into an equal roundness, not giving Affection to any particular part of the Face, but rising all the parts curiously; by which means you will better observe the Likeness, Roundness, Posture and Colouring. The Fainter and Lighter Shadows be­ing done, and somwhat smoothed and wrought into the Red, you may go over the Hair, dispo­sing of it into such Foldings, as may best become 30 the Picture. You must at the first only draw them with Colour, as near as you can sutable to the Life, and after them roughly as the rest; and then once more peruse your Work, and fill up the bare and empty places, which are uncovered with Colour; and for a parting Blow, deepen it more strongly than before, still carefully observing the Life, and deepen not too fast, but by degrees.40

CHAP. X.
The Second Sitting.

THe Second Sitting will take up 5 or 6 Hours, more or less as you intend to bestow pains; 50 the Party being set just in his former Posture, you are most exactly to observe, and more curiously with your Pencil to draw the several Delineaments, and Varieties of Nature, which before you had rudely Traced out, wherein there can be no more said but this; that you must use again the same Colours, in the same places you did at the first, working and sweetning the same one into another, that nothing be left in the Work with a hard Edge, or uneven; sweeten them with somwhat a sharper 60 Pencil than you did at the first, that your Sha­dows may be soft and smooth, being dispersed, and gently extended in and towards the lighter part of the Face, like Vapour or Smoak. But be sure when you have proceeded thus far, you are carefully to observe the aforesaid Shadows and Colours, and by little and little, Work them over into one another; when you have wrought an Hour or two, it will be time to lay your Ground behind the Picture, to Colour the Apparel, and what else you please.

The Ground behind the Picture is commonly Blue, or Crimson, something like Sattin, or Red Velvet Curtains; If Blue, first wet the Card with a Waterish Blue (after you have with a small Pen­cil, and the same Colour go about the Purfile of the Face and Body) and then with a reasonable great Pencil full of Colour, swiftly Colour it all over, suffering no part to dry until all be covered, and by this means it will lye even.

If you would have your Ground Crimson like Sattin, mark out with Indian Lake, where, and in what places you would have those strong and hard Lights to fall, which are seen in Sattin, and Velvet; there lay your Lights with a thin water­ish Lake, and while it is wet, with a stronger and darker Colour of Lake, thick Ground, lay in the deepnings and strong Shadows, close by the Lights; the best vvay is to take a piece of Taffety, &c. and vvork it by the Life.

When the Ground is laid, you vvill find the Pi­cture to be strangely changed, the Beauty of the Grounds vvill so dead the Picture; therefore lay all your Lines over vvith a flat White, and the Ap­parel vvith fitting Colours, only flat vvithout heightning or deepning; then go over the Face a­gain, reducing the Shadow to as much neatness as you can, Dravving the Lines of the Eye-lids, expressing the Red dark Nostril, the Shadows en­trance into the Ears, the deepness of the Eye-Brows, and the most perspicuous Marks of the Face, vvith a more sharp and curious Pencil than before.

Leave not the Ground too hard upon the Face vvith an Edge, but vvith your Pencil drive in the Colours of the Ground into the out-Line of the Face, that vvhen the Work is done, the Ground may seem a great vvay behind the Picture, and the Face it self may seem to stand forvvards, and off from the Ground, raising it by darkning the Ground on the light side of the Picture, and belovv on the dark. Then go over the Hair, heightning and deepning it, as the Life directeth, and gently dravving the Lines of those Locks of Hair upper­most, and behind over the Ground, vvhich else look hard and unpleasant.

If when you have done the second Sitting, and the party gone, or weary with Sitting (as com­monly they are) and yet the Work is rough (as it is not possible in so small a time, to bring of curi­ous a Work to Perfection) in his absence spend some time by your self in Polishing, and work­ing it to Perfection, filling up the empty places, and sweetning the Shadows that be hard; which being done, begin with the Linnen and Apparel, marking out the several Folds and Shadows that you shall find in the Life; heighten the Linnen with the purest White, and deepen it with Faint Shadows made of Black, White, a little Yellow, or else Blue. Your Black must be deepned with Ivory Black, and if in working in the heightning and light Reflexion you mingle with your or­dinary Black a little Lake and Indico, or rather a little Litmus in stead of Indico, you shall find [Page 225] the Black to render a rare Reflexion, like to that of well Dyed Sattin; especially if your Lights be strong and hard.

CHAP. XI.
The Third Sitting.10

THis Sitting will be wholly spent in giving the strong Observations necessary for the round­ing the Face; which you will see better to do, the Apparel, Hair, and Ground being already finish­ed. In this Sitting curiously observe whatsoever may conduce to the likeness, as Scars, Moles, Glan­cings of the Eyes, Extending, or Contracting of the Mouth, narrowing the Eyes in Laughing and 20 the like; to which purpose it will be very neces­sary that you take occasion by Discourse, to make the Party of a Jovial Aspect; and you must be suddain and ready to catch your Observations, and to express them with a bold and quick Hand, re­membring not to deepen too fast.

In Armour lay liquid Silver flat and even, which being dryed, burnish with a Tooth fitted in a Pen­cil Stick for that purpose; then Temper the Sha­dow for it of Silver, Indico, Litmus, and a little 30 Vmber; and Work your Shadows upon, and over your Silver, according to the Life; the heightning is your bright Burnished Silver, your deepning the deepest part of the Shadow, the thinner part whereof, must be neatly wrought into the Silver; and for your Shadow, take English Oaker Temper­ed with Liquid Gold. There is a Stone growing in an Oxes Gall, which being Ground, and Tem­pered with Gold, is excellent for all Gold Works; and gives an excellent Lustre and Beauty in your 40 Shadowing, which in the deepest and darkest Sha­dows, must be mixed with Black, the heightning must be the purest and finest Liquid Gold; the manner of working is as followeth.

If in any Gold Work there is Carving or Embos­sing, and that in your lighter parts it must be Sparkling, you may very finely express it, by rai­sing in those high and round places a little heap of the Gall Stone, or English Oaker, by often touch­ing with your Pencil full of Colour, and resting 50 the Point of it in one and the same place, till your Touches be raised above your other Work; that done, cover over your raised Work with Gold, and you shall find it exceeding Fair and Bright.

The like do in Silver, to express the round­ [...]ess, and Lustre of the Pearl; the Ground must be White and Indico, the Shadow Black, with a little Pink.

Diamonds are exprest with flat Liquid Silver, 60 thus laid round and high, the deepning Cheristone Black, and the deepest Ivory Black; the Silver dryed and Burnished, is best for the lightning, the stronger and darker your Shadow is, the fairer is your Diamond.

CHAP. XII.
Of Drawing Beasts, Birds and Flowers.

YOU shall find amongst Beasts some more dif­ficult than others, and that for two Rea­sons; first, for a clean making and neat Shape, to­gether with the finest of the Coat and Skin; se­condly, for their Nimbleness, both which for an Example, you may see in a Horse whose Linea­ments are both so curious, and Coat so fine, that many Sinews and Veyns are seen in him.

Note, for the manner of Drawing the Horse or any other Beast, begin with your Black Lead, or Coal at the Fore-Head, drawing downwards the Nose, Mouth, upper and neither Chap, ending your Line at the Throat; then searching it again where you began from the Fore-Head, over the Head, Ears and Neck, continuing it until you have given the full Compass of the Buttock, pro­ceeding also to the hinder Foot; then begin at the Throat, compassing the Breast; which done, bring out the Fore-Feet; then finish the Belly-Stroak ending at the hinder Leg where you left; which done, draw forth the other hinder Leg, and so proceed to the Tayl, Tongue, Teeth, Eyes, and lastly to the Shadows; and this Method observe in the Drawing of all Beasts, and in what Form soever they stand.

Beasts most easy to be drawn, are the Sheep, Cow, Hog, Camel, Dromedary, Elephant, Fox, Wolf, Badger, Otter, Bear, Coney, Hare, Ass, Spa­niel, and other rough and thick haired Dogs, with divers others too tedious to Name. The most hard are the Horse, Vnicorn, Lyon, Leopard, Tiger, Panther, Stag, Greyhound, Ape, &c.

In Drawing of these and all other Beasts, the better you observe their Action and Shape, the bet­ter you may be sure will your Work be esteemed; therefore be Experienced in the True and Lively Shapes, and to render them in their proper Co­lours.

Of BIRDS.

IN Drawing Birds, begin first with the Head, and bring from under the Throat, the Breast-Line down to the Legs, where rest; then begin at the Pinion to make the Wing, which being joyned to the Back, is soon finished; the Eyes, Legs and Train must be the last; and be sure you make the farther Leg ever shorter, as you do in Beasts. For the Feathers, take your beginning at the Head ve­ry small, and so proceed downwards greater and greater; for the true Drawing of Birds, you may procure some living ones.

The Birds most easily to be Drawn, are all sorts of Water-Foul: the next are those of Prey, and the hardest are those that are Tame. The Action of Birds is Flying, Pruning themselves, Bathing, Swiming, &c.

FLOWERS, FLIES, &c.

FOr Flowers, Flies, and such like, I vvill leave to your own Discretion, as being not so hard, nor of so great concernment; yet very delightful to the Eye, if vvell performed. For your better assistance observe these Directions: Begin it in the middle; then Draw your Lines equally divided from thence to the Line of the 10 Compass, which is the hardest; and then proceed to the Shades, and other Touches, as the Beards, Seeds, &c. You may make your Flowers either open, in the Bud, or otherwise; and in the same manner as you Draw your Flowers, so Draw your Leaves, making only your Out-stroaks first vvith a Pencil, or Coal, before you give them their Veins and Jaggedness.

For Butter-flies, Bees, Wasps, Grashoppers, and the like, some are also more easie to be Drawn 20 than others, and also not hard to be Coloured; but for these and Flowers, I vvould advise you in time of Year, to get as many several sorts of them as you can, vvhich you may preserve in Boxes (if kept from Air) a long time.

But do not keep them too hot, as near the Fire, for that vvill dry them too much, and also take away the true Colour from them; also do not Touch them too much, nor lay one upon another, for that also spoils them.30

CHAP. XIII.
Of LANDSKIPS.

A Landskip is the expressing the perfect Vision of the Earth, and all things placed 40 above the Horizon, as Mountains, Hills, Valleys, Rivers, Seas, Rocks, Groves, Woods, Forests, Plains, Castles, Towns, Ruines, &c. in which for the better Adornment, there may be several sorts of Beasts, Fowl, &c. in all which great Care ought to be taken. I shall give you some Directions therein.

Take fine Vellom, strain it on a thin Frame; fasten it with Starch, or Glue, and work on it without paisting it on a Board. This is the 50 Italian manner: You may Work it on a Card prepared with an Abortive, as aforesaid. Begin with the Skies, and if there be any Shinings or Reflexions of the Sun, let those be your first Work, always observing to represent a fair Horizon.

The yellow and whitest Beams of the Sun must be wrought with Masticot, and White, and lay by that Pencil (except wash'd clean;) for if any Masticot be mingled with Blue for the Clouds, or the like, it will make all greenish, and so spoil it.60

Work the Bluish-Sky and Clouds with Smalt, and not Bice, which is too green a Blue: You may likewise use Vltramarine, were it not too Dear.

At your first Working, Dead-colour all your Piece, and leave nothing uncovered. Let your Pencil be ever full of Colour; but lay not your Colours on too thick and rough. Work your Sky down in the Horizon fainter and fainter, as you draw nearer the Earth; unless it be a Tem­pestuous Sky. Let your remote Mountains appear sweet and misty, almost indistinguishable, mix­ing (as it were) with the Clouds aloft in the Air. Your next Ground must be of a bluish Sea-green; and as you draw near your first Ground, let them decline sometimes into redish, and some­times into yellowish.

Your first Ground must be ever of the Colour of Earth, which is dark, yellowish, brown, green, &c. easier to be distinguished by the Pencil, than otherwise: Of the same Colour (or near it) must be your first Trees, and still as they are removed in distance, they must lose their Colours, Largeness, and Perfection.

For the nearest, darkest, and saddest Hills lay burnt Vmber; and for the light places, mix some Yellow with your Vmber. For the next Hills lay Copper-Green well thickned on the Fire, as aforesaid. The next Hills further off, mingle some yellow Berries with the Green; and let the fourth degree be done with green Verditer; and the farthest and faintest places with Vltra­marine, Smalt, or Bice. The High-Ways are commonly done with Red-Lead, and White; but for variety sake use yellow Oker, which must be Shadowed with burnt Vmber: This Colour is also to be used for Sandy-Rocks, and Hills. The Rocks ought to be done with various Colours, in some places with Blew and White; in others with Black and White; in some with Vmber and White, and in others with Red Lead and White, and such other Colours as resemble Rocks; but observe always to do them with the pleasantest Colours you can. The Bodies of Trees must be done with burnt Vmber, and the Leaves with such Greens as the Ground is. And the whole Landskip must be Shadowed after you have laid on your first Colours. The darker Greens must Shadow the lighter: Spanish Brown must then Shadow Red Lead, and White; the Water must be done with Black, Verditer, and White. Some­times Shadowed with Copper-Green; a little blue Verditer, when the Banks cast a Green Shade upon the Water: At other times it must be sha­dowed with Blue Verditer alone, and where the Water is very dark in the shadows use Indico, some Blue, Verditer, and Copper-Green well thickned.

Let every thing be made to have its true Mo­tion, as when Trees are shaken with the Wind, the small Boughs must be represented as if they struck one against the other by their yeilding; In a Word, Trees ought to be expressed with great Judment, the Leaves folding, and falling one over another.

In your Land-skip always shew a fair Horizon. And express the Heavens more or less, either over-cast by Clouds, or with a Serene Skie, shew­ing the Sun Rising, or Setting over some Hill or Mountain. The Moon and Stars are not to be seen, but in Night-pieces.

When you shew the Light of the Sun, be sure that all the Light of your Hills, Buildings, Trees, or any Figure be given thitherwards. Shadow all your Clouds from the Sun, and take a great care to lessen your Bodies by their distance, and not [Page 227] to represent them so plain as if they were nigh at Hand: As suppose you were to Draw a Land-skip, in which some part were to be in distance 8 or 10 Miles off, in such a case do not express any particular Sign, as in Buildings, the Balconies Turrets, or the like; or in Figures the Lively Colours, but represent them as weakly, and faint­ly as possible, because all these particulars through the Greatness of their Distance are taken away.10

The best way of making Land-skips, is that way which hath been practised of late days by our best Work-men, which is to make them shoot, away one part lower than another, and not as many do, in making the Land-skip to ascend higher and higher, nay so high, that it doth ap­pear to touch the Clouds, as if they had stood in a Bottom, when they took the Draught thereof, which is altogether improper, for what Prospect can be discerned at the Bottom of a Hill; therefore the 20 best and properest way, is to make the nearest Hill the highest, and so the rest that are farther to shoot away under, that the Land-skip may appear to be taken from the Top of a Hill.

Make all your Lights and shadows to fall one way, both upon the Ground, as also upon Trees, and all things else.

Clouds, require to have their Motion, some­times violently Condensated into Rain, Hail, Lightning, and the like; and sometimes gathered 30 together with the Winds.

Note, that all your Motions which are caused by the Wind, must of necessity be made to move one way, because the Wind doth blow but one way, at once.

The Motions of the Sea are to be observed, by Representing the divers Movings of the Waters, as the Flashings of the Waters upon Boats, Ships or the like, and to be Represented as it were Floating up and down the Waters; You must 40 also Represent the Motions of Waters, descending from high places.

Be sure always to place Light against Dark, and Dark against Light, the meaning is, that the only way to remove the Ground, and extend the Pros­pect, is by opposing Lights to Shadows, yet so as they must ever lose their force and vigour proportional as they remove from the Eye; and the stronger Shadows ever nearest hand (or as they call it) on the first Ground.50

If you draw your Landskip according to your Invention, it is good to observe some Directi­ons, viz. to shew in it the fair side of some City, Haven, Forest, curious House with delightful Gar­dens, &c. Also Country Villages, a Farm-house with Barns, Stables, Water-mills, Wind-mills, &c. Also the Ruins of Castles, Monastaries, Churches, or the like Pilgrims travelling through Wilder­nesses, Shepherds keeping Sheep, &c. These and a Thousand more Inventions are to be observed in 60 Landskips.

When you colour any Buildings, do it with as much variety of pleasant Colours, as is pro­per to Nature, and not unnatural.

Thus much for Directions to those that can spare time for the attaining this noble Art: Now to those that are unskilful, or have not spare-time to spend in the practice of these Di­rections aforesaid, yet are desirous to take the Copies of Prints or Pictures which are not to be obtained, let them follow these Directions.

CHAP. XIV.
How to take a true Draught of any Picture.

TAke a Piece of white Lanthorn Horn, and lay it upon your Picture; then with a hard-nib'd Pen made with a Ravens Quill, draw the Out-Stroaks of your Picture upon the Horn; and when it is dry, breath two or three times upon the Horn; and press it hard upon a Piece of clean White Paper a little wet, and the Picture that you drew on the Horn will stick fast to the Paper.

Also take a Sheet of Fine Paper, and rub it all over on one side with Vermillion, or Black Lead; then lay this side of the Paper which is coloured, upon another Sheet of White Paper; then lay the Picture you would Copy, upon the other side of the Sheet so coloured, and with a Ravens Quil, as aforesaid, draw neatly over all the chief or Master-stroaks of the Picture, and they will all appear on the Paper.

Also take some Printers Black, grind it fine, and temper it with Fair Water; then take a Pen, and dip it therein, and with it draw over all the Master-stroaks, and Out-lines with the Muscles; then with a Spunge wet a clean Sheet of Paper, and clap the Paper upon it, pressing it very hard, and the Stroaks will all be on the Paper.

CHAP. XV.
To make Pastils.

YOU need not be over-curious in grinding your Colours exceeding fine; but be sure to mix them well together; and to the Colours add a reasonable quantity of Plaister of Paris burnt, and finely sifted; mix them well together thick and stiff like moist Clay; then take the Colour off the Stone, and betwixt the Palms of your Hands rub it out as long, or as litle as you please, and dry them in the Sun or Wind, not by the Fire; when they are dry, with a Pen-Knife scrape them to a fine sharp Point at one end.

Remember that when you temper fast and firm Colours, as Vmber, Oaker, Indico, &c. you use the less quantity of Plaister of Paris; but where your Colours are loose, and sandy, or Smalt &c. add the greater quantity.

CHAP. XVI.
Rules for Painting in Oyl.

HAving already treated of Drawing, and Painting in Miniature, there requires the 10 less to be said in Painting in Oyl, the chief differ­ence being in the mixing them with Oyl, and preparing them on the Pallet fit to work with; yet you must take notice, that some Colours fit for Miniature are improper for Oyl: I shall not descend to the particulars, for you may be sup­plyed either with a whole Sett of Colours, or with what you have occasion for ready made up in Bladders and sold by most Colour-Shops.

Of these Colours some are to be tempered on 20 the Pallet at first; some must be ground, and then tempered; and others must be burnt, then ground and tempered. Those tempered on the Pallet without grinding in Oyl, are Vermillion, Bice, Verditer, Smalt, Vltramarine, Lamb-Black, Masticot, and Orpment. Those to be burnt, and then ground and tempered, are Cerus, Ivory, Vmber, and Oaker; and those that must be ground in Oyl, and then to be tempered on your Pallet, are all the rest of the Colours used in Oyl-Painting; 30 that is to say, White-Lead, Cerus, Flake-White, Seacoal-Black, Charcoal, Colens-Earth, Lake, Ker­mine, Red-Lead, Ornetto, Verdigreace, Terra-Vert, Pink, Masticot, Smalt, Spanish Brown, &c. Oyl Colours (if not timely used) will have a Skin grow over them; to prevent which, (for those that you will grind your self) put the said Colours into Glasses, with Fair Water over them; but for those that you buy ready prepared in Blad­ders, that trouble, as also that of burning and 40 grinding, is saved.

The Materials for Painting in Oyl are, the Easel, on which your Piece to work on is set; the Pallet used for putting on the Colours for your Work, and there tempered and mixed toge­ther as occasion requires, with a thin Knife; the Straining-Frame, to which is nailed the Primed Cloth you are to paint upon; the Stay or Mol­stick, being a small Stick about a Yard long, which is to rest your Arm upon, when you are at work,50 being a great stay, causing a steddy Hand; and the Pencils, which must be of several Sizes, length­ned with neat Pieces of Brazil-Wood for your better commanding and holding them. The several sorts of Pencils are generally known by these names, Ducks-Quills fitched and pointed, Goose-Quills fitched and pointed, Swans-Quills fitched and pointed; Jewelling Pencils, and Bristle Pencils. As for the Priming-Cloths on which you Paint, they are cheaper bought, than to be troubled with the 60 preparing them; so that I shall forbear giving Directions for the same.

Upon the Pallet let your Colours be so disposed at convenient distances, that there may be room for the mixing of some of them together for the making of proper or mixt Colours, for the Face, Garments, and other occasions, as Shadows, &c. and let the White be next your Thumb, it being most used; for with it all Shadows are to be lightned.

Further Directions in Painting.

HAving all your Pencils, which should be two of a sort, as two Duck-Quills fitched, and two pointed; the like of all the rest: These Pencils being thus in a readiness in your left Hand, vvith the Pallet on your Thumb prepared vvith Colours, proceed to Work, as followeth:

Set the Frame and Cloth on the Easel at a convenient height, so that sitting on a Stool you may have the Face of the Picture something higher than your own. Let the Easel be set to the Light, which must come in on your left Hand, casting the Light towards the Right.

Let the Person you are to Draw, sit before you at about four or five Foot distance, and in the Posture you design the Picture. Then with a Croyon, Coal, or the like, draw the Proportion of the Face upon the Cloth, putting in the Eyes, Nose, Mouth, Ears, Hair, &c. Then with your Swans-Quill Pointed-Pencil, begin to Paint some of the lightest Parts of the Face with the lightest Colour; as the heightning of the Nose, Forehead, and the Cheek-Bone of the lightest side: Then the mean Parts; as the Chin, over the upper Lip, and the Cheek-Bone of the dark Side; and so proceed gradually until you come to the reddest Part of all.

Lay faint greenish Shadows in convenient places, and where it is necessary to soften harsher Shadows.

The faint and light Parts being thus done, take a Goose-Quill pointed, or a Ducks-Quill fitched Pencil, and begin at the Eyes to Shadow with Lake, going over the Nose, Mouth, Compass of the Ear, &c. before you lay on any Colour, wiping it lightly over with a fine Rag, or Cloth, to prevent the overcoming of the other Co­lours.

The light and dark Colours being thus put in, take a large Fitch-Pencil, and sweeten the Colours therewith, by going over the Shadows with a clean soft Pencil; and thus doing will intermix the Colours one into another, so that they will look soft, and as if all laid on together.

At the second Sitting, begin again with clean Pencils of such bigness as your Work requires: And at this Sitting you must observe well the Person whose Picture you Draw, taking notice of all the Features, and to amend what you find amiss at your first Sitting: Then heighten, or deepen the Shadows, as you see occasion. And lastly, Take a Goose-Quill Bristle, and put in the Hair about the Face (if any,) and rub in the greater Hair with the greater Bristle, heightning it up with the Goose-Quill Pencil.

CHAP. XVII.
How to Distemper Colours.

TAke about a Quarter of a Pound of Ising-glass, and put it into a Skellet, with about 10 a Quart of fair Water; let it boyl gently until the Ising-glass is dissolved, which done, pour it out of the Skellet hot into a dry Bladder, for if it be cold it will turn into a Jelly; then tye up the Bladder, that no Dust get in, and hang it up in some convenient place where the Sun comes, for about a Month, by which time the heat of the Sun will rot, or turn it to fair Water, which Water put into Glasses for your use, for it is better than Gum-water; for it heightens the 20 Colours, sets a fair Gloss upon them, and pre­serves them from tarnishing, and resembleth Oyl-Colours as to the Gloss. The Water is made weaker, if too strong, by putting a little fair Water into the Glass, or as you Work with it; for the thicker the Jelly is, the stronger will the Water be.30

CHAP. XVIII.
To Paint in Frisco.

THis way requireth not only a quick and ready Hand, but also a profound Judg­ment; and that for these Reasons: First, Because the Painter must begin no more in a Day than he can finish; for this kind of Painting is to be done upon the Wall, or Ceiling, whilst the Lime 40 is moist and fresh, so that what remaineth at that time unfinished will be lost, by reason of the drying of the Lime; as also the Wall will gather a certain hard Crust, which either vvith the Cold, Frost, or Heat, vvill destroy that part vvhich is not finished. And, Secondly, Because the Colours shew after one fashion vvhen they are first laid on, and the Wall remaineth wet, and of another vvhen they are dry. The Colours that are used in this manner of Work, are only such as are 50 made of Earths; for such as are made of Mine­rals are obnoxious, and will spoil the Work.

Now for preparing your Colours, they are to be Ground, as formerly hath been shewed, vvith fair Water, and are to be tempered vvith the same; for if tempered vvith Size, or Gum, the Wall vvill not continue its clearness; and be­sides, the Colours in a short time vvill decay, and turn Black.

If you mix your Colours vvith the Whites of Eggs beaten to an Oyl, it is very good to preserve them.

Let your Pencils be long, and soft, that your Work may be smooth: And let your Pencils and Brushes be full of Colour, to flow freely from them.

CHAP. XIX.
Rules for the disposing or placing of Pictures, and Paintings.

LEt the best Pieces be so placed as to be seen with a single Light, by which means the shadow falls naturally, and the more under the Light the better.

Let the Porch or Entrance into the House, be adorned with Rustick Figures, and things Rural. In the Hall Shep-herds, Peasants, Cattle, Sheep and the like.

The Stair-case, ought to be set out with Pieces of Buildings, Land-skips, History, &c. the like in the Dining, and Withdrawing Rooms, but with those of better Painting.

For the Galleries, let there be good Histories. In Banquetting and Summer Houses, put those Pieces that seem chearful and merry; with good Land-skips.

In your Bed Chambers, place your own, with your Wives, Children and Relations.

If your Pictures hang high, let them incline something forward at the Top, otherwise the Visual Beams of the Eye, extending to the Top of the Picture, appear further off than those at the Foot.

For the cleansing Old, or Foul Pictures.

TAke good Wood Ashes finely searced; or else Smalt, or Powder Blue, and with a Spung and fair Water gently wash over the Picture, (taking great care of the shadows) then dry it very well with a clean Cloth; which done, Vernish it over with some good Vernish; but such as may wash off, if occasion requires.

HERALDRY.

ARMS according to their Original use are Tokens, or Resemblances signifying some Act or Quality of the Bearer, either Mili­tary or Civil, and of sundry Forms of Bearing, for the adorning their Shields, Banners, Coaches, Houses and the like. And there is (as it were) a kind of Sympathy between the Arms and their Bearers, insomuch that he that Dishonourably useth the Arms of any Man, seemeth to offer an 10 Affront to the person of the Bearer.

The Skill of Armory consists in Blazoning and Marshalling. By Marshalling is understood the joyning of divers Arms in one Shield: By Blazo­ning is meant the Displaying; or expressing a Coat of Arms in its proper Colours, and Metals; for to lay Colour upon Colour, and Metal upon Metal, is a great fault, and a different Form of Blazon makes the Arms not the same; And you must a­void Repetition of words, a Concise way being 20 the best.

In Blazoning, first begin with the Field, and then proceed to the Charge; and if there be sun­dry things charged in the Field, whether of one, or of divers kinds, you must name that first which is most Predominate.

The Blazon of Arms consists in their Accidents and Parts, and such Accidents are Tincture and Differences.

Tincture (as Guillim noteth) is a variable Hew of Arms, and is as well common to Differences 30 of Arms, as to Arms themselves, and the same is Distributed into Colours, and Furs.

Colour is an External Dye, wherewith any thing is Coloured, or Stained; or else is the Gloss of any Body beautified with Light; and Colour here mentioned, is both General and Special; by General, is understood the Proper and Natural Co­lour of each particular thing, whether Natural or Artificial, of what kind soever they are, Illustra­ted 40 in their External and proper Beauty.

Things Born in their Natural Colours, are to be Blazoned proper, and not to mention the Co­lour.

Other things there are in Armory, that have on­ly Name attributed to them, and no Colour Spe­cified in the Blazon thereof, the Name being suffi­cient to express the same, although the Form is all one and the same; and that is, the Resemblance of a Ball or Bullet, the Names of which, as also 50 the Colours Appropriated unto them are as follow­eth. 1, Besants whose Colour is Or. 2, Plates are Argent. 3, Harts are Azure. 4, Pellets or Ogresses are Sable. 5, Torteauxes are Gules. 6, Pomeis are Vert. 7, Gos­pes are Purpure. 8, Orenges are Tenne, and 9 Gu­zes are Sanguine; and in these 9 are all the Colours usually made use of in Blazonry.

Arms are Blazoned by Metals and Colour, by Pre­cious Stones, and by Planets. By Metals and Colours when belonging to Gentlemen, under the Degree of Nobiles Minores, as Baronets, Knights, Esquires, and Gentlemen; By Precious Stones, when to those of Nobiles Majores, as Dukes, Mar­quesses, Earls, Viscounts and Barons; and by Planets when to Emperors, Kings, and Soveraign Princes.

Metals and Colours.Precious Stones.Planets.
Or.Topaz.Sol.
Argent.Pearl.Luna.
Gules.Ruby.Mars.
Azure.Saphir.Jupiter.
Sable.Diamond.Saturn.
Vert.Emerald.Venus.
Purpure.Amethist.Mercury.
Tenne.Jacynthe.Dragons Head.
Sanguin.SardonixDragons Tail.

These Colours are distinguished from each other, by several Hatches or Marks in Graving, as are Represented in the Plate of Arms, for Examples of Bearings Number 1 signifying Or, Number 2 Argent, 3 Gules, 4 Azure, 5 Sable, 6 Vert, and for the three last Purpure, Tenne, and Sanguin be­ing seldom used, are exprest by Stroaks overthwart the Shield, as in Number 7.

From Metals and Colours, I shall proceed to Furs, used as well in Doublings of the Mantles ap­pertaining to Coat-Armour, as in the Coat-Armour themselves.

Furs consist of one Colour alone, or of more than one.

  • Furs that are Com­pounded of two Co­lours only, are sorted either
    • with Black, and are ei­ther Or
      • Black, mixt with White, as
        • Ermine. and Ermines.
      • Or Black mixt with Yel­low, as
        • Ermeneis. and Pean.
    • without Black, such are accord­ing to Leigh
      • Vairy, Argent and Azure, and
      • Verry, Or and Gules, or the like Colour.

For your better Explanation, Ermine is when the Field is Argent, and the Powdring is Sable, as Number 8. Ermines, when the Field is Sable and the Powdring is Argent, as Number 9. Ermenois when the Field is Or, and the Powdring Sable, as Number 10, and Pean is when the Field is Sa­Sable, [Page]

Io the Right Honble. Charles Lord [...] Earle of Worcester, Son and heyre of the Right No­ble Henry Duke of Beau­ [...]rd Marquest and Earle of Worcester &c.a

This Plate is humbly Dedi­cated by Rich. Blome

[Page] [Page]

The Body of Heraldry.

To the Rt: Worshipfull S ▪ Iustinam Isham of Lampor in Northamptonshire Baronet. This Plate is Humbly D▪ D. by Ric▪ Blome

[Page] [Page 231] and the Powdring Or, as Number 11. Vaire is represented by Number 12; and for Vairy Copy, or Potent-Counter-Potent, which is another sort of Fur where the Colours must be exprest in the Blazoning, as in Number 13.

BORDVRS.

BORDVRS were first devised for distinction of, Coat-Armour of particular Persons of 10 one and the same Family each from other a­mongst themselves; and of these there are seve­ral sorts, as born Plain, Engrailed, Invected, In­dented, Checky, Gobonated, Vaire, Counter-Compony, and also Charged; Examples of some of which are taken notice of in the Table, which may serve as Examples for any other.

More Modern Differences, and now used in Coat-Armour, are Labels, Crescents, Mullets, Mart­lets, Annulets, and Flower-de-Lis. Examples of 20 which are set down in the Table, under the Head of Modern Differences, by which every House ought to be distinguished from the Elder; the second Brother, or House, bearing the Crescent, the third the Mullet, the fourth the Martlet, the fifth the Annulet, and the sixth the Flower-de-Lis. The Label being the distinction of the Elder Brother, during the Life of his Father. But as to Daughters, they bear their Fathers Coat Armour without any distinction.30

Parts of Arms.

THe Parts of Arms are the Escocheon, and the Ornaments without it.

The Accidents in the Escocheon are Points and Abatements. Points are certain places in the Escocheon diversly named, according to their several Position, whereof some are in the Middle, and some Remote; those in the Middle, are in, or 40 near the Center of the Escocheon, and such are the Honour, the Fess, and the Nombril Points.

The Fess Point is in the exact Center of the Escocheon; the Honour Point is next above the same in a direct Line; and the Nombril Point is next underneath the Fess Point.

Remote Points are those placed at a further distance from the Center of the Escocheon; and of these some are Superiour, and some Inferiour. The Superiour are those that have their being in 50 the Upper part of the Escocheon, and of these there are Middle, and Extreams; the Middle is the precise Middle of the Chief between the two Extreams: The two Superiour Extream Points do possess the Corners of the chief part of the Escocheon, and are called Dexter, and Sini­ster.

The Inferiour Points do possess the Base of the Escocheon; and of these there are also both Middle, and Remote. For the Explanation of all 60 which there is an Escocheon in the Table with Let­ters shewing the same. And the knowledge of these Points are of great use and concernment, and ought to be well observed.

ABATEMENTS.

AN ABATEMENT is an Accidental Mark annexed to Coat-Armour, shewing some dishonourable Quality in the Bearer, where­by the Dignity of the Coat is abated.

They consist of Diminution, and Reversing.

Diminution is the blemishing of some parti­cular Point of the Escocheon by some Staynard Colour, as Tenne, Sanguine, or Purpure; or by reversing the Charge in the Coat. But not know­ing any that bear any Abatements in their Arms, it will be to little purpose to tell what they are.

REWARDS of HONOVR.

THere are several Forms of Charges, on which Rewards and Additions of Honour are oft-times placed in Coats, as Cantons, Quarters, Escocheons, Girons, Flasques, and Voiders; but those in most use are the three first, according to Number 14, 15, 16, as Sable a Canton Or; Ar­gent, a Quarter Azure; and Or, an Escocheon Gules.

ESCOCHEONS, and the HONOVRABLE ORDINARIES.

ESCOCHEONS are either of one Tincture, or more than one: Those of more than one, some are more predominate; and that is said to predominate, when some one Metal, Co­lour, or Fur is spread, or understood to be spread all over the Surface of the Escocheon, which is termed the Field, or Shield. And in such Esco­cheons as have in them more Tinctures than one (as most have) the Field and Charge must be observed: And in your Blazoning first name the Field, and then proceed to the Charge thereon; and if there be several Charges, then name that first which is most predominate, and nearest the Field.

The Charge is that which possesseth the Field, whether it be Sensitive, or Vegetable; Natural, or Artificial; and is placed either throughout all the Superficies of the Escocheon, or else in some special part of the same.

The common Accidents of Charges are Ad­umbration, or Transparency; or they are Trans­mutation, or Counter-changing.

All Charges of Arms are either Proper, or Common, and in these the making and manner of Bearing must be considered.

The making of the Ordinaries consists of Lines diversly composed, which is the Matter whereof they are formed, and according to the divers tracts and forms of Lines, they receive their Shape and variation of Names; and the property of these Lines are their Rightness, or Crookedness, which are set down in the Table, being Strait, Engrailed, Invected, Waved, Nebule, Embatuled, or Crenelle, Indented, and Daun­cette.

The Honourable Ordinaries are the Bend, Che­veron, Cross, Fess, Chief, Pale, Pike, Saltier, and [Page 232] Escoche [...]n; and were modernly invented for the Distinction of Coat-Armour; you will find their Forms or Shapes set down in the Plate of Arms.

These Ordinaries are Born sometimes of them­selves, in plain Fields, sometimes between a Charge, sometimes Charged, sometimes two or more of them joyned together in one Shield with a Charge, and sometimes Counter-changed; Examples of all which are at large set down in a Volum of Heral­dry, 10 published by me.

The BEND doth contain the Fifth part of the Field, in breadth, if Uncharged, but if Charged then the third. It is said to Represent a Ladder, set Slope to Scale the Walls of a City. This Ordinary is divided into a Bendlet, which is limited to the Sixth part of the Shield; Into a Garter, which is the Moity of a Bend; into a Cost which is the Fourth part of a Bend, and into a Ribon which is the Moity of a Cost. In the Plate 20 of Arms, Number 17 Represents a Bend, which is Charged with Pellets: Number 18 a Bendlet; Number 19 a Garter; Number 20 a Cost; and Number 21 a Ribon.

There is also a Bend Sinister which goeth thwart the Escocheon from the Sinister Chief to the Dexter Base, which is quite contrary to the other Bend; And this Bend is subdivided into a Scrape which is the Moity of the Bend, and into a Batune which is the Fourth part of the Bend, 30 and this is the usual Badge of Illegitimacy. The Escocheon, Number 22 sheweth the Bend Sinister; Number 23 the Scrape, and Number 24 the Ba­tune, which must not extend to the extream Points of the Escocheon, but only to be as a Bar over the Charge.

Two Bends are also Born; Also Bendy of 6, or 8; and a Bend between two Cottizes, according to the Examples, Number 25, 26, and 27.

The CHEVERON Represents the Rafters 40 of a House, and was antiently the Head-Attire of Women Priests. It takes up the 5th part of the Shield, and is subdivided into the Cheveronel which is half the Cheveron; and into a Couple­close, which is the Moity of the Cheveronel; and this is not Born, but by Pairs, except there be a Cheveron between them.

The Cheveron is sundry ways used in Bear­ings, as well as the Bend, and other of the Ho­nourable Ordinaries; Examples of which are in 50 the Table of Arms, which are thus Blazoned, Number 28 Gules, on a Cheveron, Agent, three Mullets Sable. 29 Ermin, a Cheveron Couped Sable. 30 Azure, a Cheveron in Chief Argent. 31 Sable, a Cheveron Rompe Argent. 32 Vert, a Che­veron Engrailed voyded Argent. 33 Gules, three Cheveronels, reversed Argent. 34 Or, three Chever­onels, braced in the Base of the Escocheon Sable. 35 Vert, a Cheveronel Argent. 36 Or, two Cheve­rons Gules, and commonly 3 Cheverons, are born 60 in one Shield, and composed of strait, or crook­ed Lines.

The CROSS taketh up the 5th Part of the Escocheon, but if charged then the third: There are divers sorts of Crosses, but those most usal­ly Born amongst us are set down in the Plate of [...]rms; and are thus Blazoned, Number 37 Ar­gent, a Cross Pierced Gules▪ 38 Or, a Cross Couped Sable. 39 Azure, a Cross Potence Argent. 40 Vert, a Cross Pattee Fitchee Or. 41 Or, a Cross Molin Sable. 42 Gules, a Cross Botony Argent. 43 Azure, a Cross Croslet Argent. Cross Croslets are Born more than one in a Shield, and likewise as well on, as between any of the Ordinaries. 44 Or, a Cross Flory Sable. 45 Argent, a Cross Voyded Sable. 46 Argent, Cross Wavey Voyded Sable between 4 Torteauxes. 47 Ermin, a Cross Ragule Gules.

Note, that any of the Crosses may be Born Fitchee, as also Pierced, or Quarter Pierced, also between, or upon any of the Ordinaries.

The FESS containeth the Third part of the Escocheon in breadth, and doth Occupy the Cen­ter of the Shield. This hath formerly been ta­ken for the Belt, or Girdle of Honour, as divid­ing the Shield into two equal Parts.

The BAR differeth not from the Fess, but on­ly that it contains the Fifth part of the Shield, whereas the Fess doth possess but the Third. It is divided into the Closet, which contains the Moi­ty of the Bar, and into the Barulet, which is half the Closet. The Bar is generally Born two in one Shield.

The Examples of the Fess and Bar in the Plate of Arms, are Number 48 Azure, a Fess Wavey between 3 Flower-de-Lis Argent. 49 Ar­gent, a Fess Humid Sable. 50 Argent, a Fess Per-Fess, indented Gules and Sable, between two Cot­tizes Counterchanged. 51 Per Fess Sable, and Argent a Fess Batile, Counter-Batled Counter-chang­ed. 52 Per Fess Or, and Sable, a Fess Nebule Gules. 53 Azure 4 Fusils in Fess Argent. 54 Gules, two Bars Or. 55 Barry of six Or and Gules. 56 Er­min a Closet Vert. 57 Sable a Barulet Argent.

The CHIEF doth contain the Third part of the Escocheon in depth. It is divided in­to the Fillet, which contains the Fourth part of the Chief, and standeth in the Chief Point. This Ordinary is also subject to a Charge, and is Born with strait and crooked Lines. The Examples of which are Number 58 Azure, a Chief Indented Or. 59 Ermine, a Chief quarterly. Or, and Gules. 60, Or, a Chief Checky Argent, and Azure. 61 Gules a Chief Argent surmounted by another, Or. 62 Argent, a Chief Sable in the nether part a Fillet Argent. 63 Azure three Bars Argent, in Chief as many Bezants.

The PALE contains the third part of the Field; It is subdivided into the Pallet, which is the Moity of the Pale, and is never to be charged with any thing, neither must it be parted; and into an Endorse, which is the Fourth part of the Pale, and is not used but when the Pale is be­tween two of them. If the Pale be upon any Beast, that is the Beast as it were behind it, then the Term of Blazoning it is, he is Debrused with the Pale; but if the Beast be on the Pale then he is supported by the Pale. The Examples for Pales in the Plate of Arms are Number 64 Or, on a Pale Azure 3 Bezants. 65 Argent a Pale Gules, between two Endorses Sable. 66 Vert, a Pallet Argent. 67 Party Per Pale Argent and Sable, a Pale Counter-changed. 68 Argent, 3, Pallets Wa­vy Azure. 69 Paly of six Argent and Gules.

[Page 233] The PILE, consists of twofold Lines, for­med like a Wedge, and was a War-like Weapon, used amongst the Romans. It is by some not al­lowed to be one of the Ordinaries. It is Born several ways, and more than one in a Shield, according to the Examples, Number 70 Or, on a Pile Vert, 3 Garbs or Wheat Sheaves of the Field. 71 Ermin, two Piles Sable. 72 Argent, 3 Piles, one issuing out of the Chief, between two others reversed Azure. 73 Gules, a Pile waved issuing out of the 10 Dexter Corner Bendways Or. 74 Argent, a Triple Pile- [...]lory on the Tops, issuing out of the sinister Base in a Bend Sable.

The SALTIER contains the fifth part of the Shield; but if charged, then the third. This is said to be about the height of a Man, and was used to Scale the Walls of a Town, being driven full of Pins, which served for Steps.

It is born with strait, or crooked Lines, with a Charge, or Charged, Counterchanged, one Saltier 20 surmounted by another; parted per Saltier, a Saltier Counterchanged, and Quarterly quartered, &c. according to the Examples in the Plate of Arms, Number 75, Vert, a Saltier Engrailed Ar­gent. 76 parted per Saltier Argent and Gules, a Saltier Counterchanged. 77, Azure, a Saltier Quar­terly quartered, Or and Argent. 78, Gules, on a Saltier Or, another Sable. 79, Gyrony of four Argent and Gules, a Saltier between four Mullets Counterchanged. 30

An ESCOCHEON contains the fifth part of the Shield, and must be placed in the Fess-Point. This is also termed an Escocheon of Pre­tence, and is so Born by those that Match with an Heiress, giving therein her Coat of Arms.

About an Escocheon is usually an Orle of something, as Martlets, Cinquefoils, or the like, as in the Example 83. Sometimes it is born as an Orle it self, as Example 81. Sometimes an Orle of two Pieces, that is, one within another, as Exam­ple 40 82. Sometimes three plain Escocheons without any Charge in them. Sometimes double, or single Treasures (a Charge much used in Scotch Coats) as Example 84.

PARTITIONS.

PArtitions are such in which there is no Tincture, that is, Metal, Colour or Fur predomina­ting in them, and are formed of sundry sorts of Lines of Partition, occasioning oft times Counter­changing, and Transmutation, and these kind of 50 Bearings are subject to be born Engrailed, Inden­ted, Wavey, Invected, Embattuled, Nebule or the like; Examples of which are in the Plate of Arms, viz. 85 per Pale Argent and Sable. 86 per Fess indented Or and Gules. 87 Quarterly Ermine and Vert. 88 per Bend Embattuled Argent and Gules. 89 per Cheveron Engrailed Gules and Argent. 90 per Pile, Or and Sable. 91 per Saltier, Gules and Ermine. If the Field is divided into 6, 8, or 60 more Pieces, then it is Blazoned Gyrony of 6, 8 or more Pieces, and name the Colours as Example 92 Gyrony of 6 Pieces, Or and Azure. 93 Gyrony of 8 Pieces Azure and Argent.

COVNTERCHANGES.

COunterchanges are commonly Born where the Field hath a Charge, which is always Coun­terchanged according to the Examples. 94 per Pale, Argent and Gules, a Bend Counterchanged. 95 per Pale, Or and Gules 3 Rundles Counter­changed. 96 per Fess, Argent and Gules a Bar between 3 Crescents Counterchanged. 97 Paly Ben­dy, Argent and Sable. 98 Checky, Argent and Azure, a Chief Gules. 99 Barry of 6 parted per Pale in­dented, Argent and Gules Counterchanged.

There are Sundry Bearings of 2 or 3 Ordinaries in one Shield, as on a Cheveron 3 Bars Gemele. A Pile Surmounted on a Cheveron on a Saltier Engrailed an Escocheon charged with a Cross. A Fess between 2 Cheverons. Two Bars and a Chief indented. Paly of 6, a Cheveron, A Saltier, and Chief vary. Per Pale a Cheveron Countercharged. A Cheveron within a Border engrailed. A Cross, and Chief, &c. Examples of which are in the Plate of Arms, from Number 100 to 109.

For the better Methodizing a Body of Heraldry, all sort of Bearings may be comprehended under these Heads, viz. Civil Artificial things, Military things, Celestials, Vegetables, the Parts of Mans Body; Animals, as Beasts and Insects, Fowl and Fish.

CIVIL ARTIFICIAL THINGS are such that are made by Man, and for his use; which may be reduced under several Heads, as they relate to the use of Civil Life, as the Ensigns of Dignity, both Temporal and Ecclesiastical; or of Professions both Liberal, Mathematical, and Mechanical▪ as they relate to Military Actions▪ as well for Land as Sea: And such are Scepters▪ Crowns, Mounds, Caps of Maintenances, Mantl [...] of Estate, Maces, Garters, Tassels, Sword [...] Estate, Crosiers, Annulets, Billets, [...] Maunches, Purses, Rural Instruments, as [...] Harrows, Scithes, &c. Barrels or Tuns. [...] Tools, as Squares, Mallets, &c. Bells, [...] ▪ Fish, Wheels, and Nets, Cards, Dice, Tab [...] ▪ Cups, Lozenges, Fusils, Mascles and Torte [...] ­es, with divers other Artificial things used in [...] ­mory, too Tedious to Name.

MILITARY THINGS are such t [...]t are as well for Offences as Defence, as Halber [...]s, Spears, Swords, Daggers, Cross-Bows Launces, Bows, Arrows, Darts, Pheons, Clarions, Battering Rams, Shakbolts, Scaling-Ladders, Beacons, Murthering Chainshot, Trumpets, Drums, Tents, Castles, Towers, Arches, Helmets, M [...]rions, Saddles, Horseshoes, Gantlets, Armour, Waterbougets, Horses, Chaplets, Anchors, Sails, Masts, Ships, Gallies, Ruthers, &c.

CELESTIALS are of sundry sorts, some are Natural and meerly formal, as Angels and Spi­rits, and others both Formal and Material, as the Sun, Moon and Stars, as also such Natures as are Sublunar, as all kind of Minerals▪ which have Life after a sort, as Angels, Cherubs, the Sun, Moon, Stars, Blazon Stars, Meteors, and Comets, Flames of Fire, Crescents, Mullets, Clouds and Rays of the Sun, Jupiters-Thunderbolt, Rainbows, &c.

Note, that Stars are born of several Rays, as 6, 8, 14 and the like, also the Sun is born Eclipsed, likewise the Moon Eclipsed, as also in her Increscent and Decrescent. Mullets are also born of 6 or 8 Points; but generally of 5▪ and then [Page 234] you need not express the Number of Points; like­wise Mullets are Born pierced.

VEGETABLES do comprehend Trees, Fruits, Flowers, Plants, and Leaves; as Trees growing with Fruit, Stems of Trees Radicated, Limbs of Trees Raguled, Stocks or Stumps of Trees, Leaves of sundry sorts of Trees; and that born diversly, as Slipped, Pendant, Bendways, Barways, Saltier Wise, &c. Trefoyls, Quaterfoils, Cinquefoils, which are also Slipped; Roses, Flower-de-Lis, with o­ther 10 Flowers, Fruits, as Pears, Plums, Pomgranets, Grapes, Sheaves of Corn, Wheat-Ears and Stalks, &c.

The several parts of Mans Body, as Heads Cou­ped and Erazed at the Shoulders, as well Sarazens, Blackamores, as others: Also Arms, Legs, and Hands, Dexter and Sinister, both Couped and Erazed; like­wise three Arms or Legs conjoyned and flexed in Triangle in the Fess Point▪ Hearts which are some­times born wounded and Stuck with Darts; Deaths-Heads, Shin Bones; Drops, as Gutte-de Sang, Gutte de-E [...]u, Gutte-de Poix, Gutte-de Carmes, &c. 20

ANIMALS are Born both whole, and that in several Postures▪ as also in parts▪ Those of Prey, as Lyons, Tigers, Bears, Wolves, &c. are in most e­steem, and whole Animals more than parts thereof.

All Quadruped Beasts are esteemed more wor­thy of Bearing, than Fowl or Fish, in regard they contain in them more worthy and commendable Significations of Nobility, and the Males are al­ways esteemed the more worthy than the Females; 30 but it is otherwise with Fowl of Prey, the Female Hawks being the best. And all Savage Beasts must be Armed.

The Lion being the noblest Beast, I shall chief­ly make use of him for expressing the Blazon of most Beasts, as to the several Postures. They are born Rampant, Rampant Gardant, Regardant, and Coward; sometimes with two Heads, and sometimes with two Tails; They are also born two together, as Rampant Combatant, that is, Faces together,40 and Rampant Endorsed, that is Back to Back. They are also born Passant, Passant-Gardant, and Regardant; also Seiant, Couchant, and Dormant. But instead of using the Term Rampant to a B [...]ck, or Vnicorn, say Springing: and to a Fox, Saliant. Dogs are generally Born Currant or Passant.

As to the Parts of Beasts, whether Lions, or other sorts, their Heads are either Erazed, Couped, or Cabosed; and sometimes the Face only of a Lion, or Leopard, is born. The Attires or Horns 50 of a Buck are used in Wearings; also the Paws and Tails of Lions and Bears are used both Era­zed, and Couped.

There are several Monstrous Animals, such as are exorbitant from the general course of Nature, either for Qualities, or Essence, that are Born in Armory; and such are Amphibious Beasts, as Ot­ters and Beavers, that live both on the Land and in the Water. Also those of a prodigious Shape being formed, or rather deformed with the con­fused 60 Shapes of Creatures of different kinds and qualities; and such are Bats, Harpres, Wiverns, Cockatrices, Mermaids, and Dragons.

There are divers Creeping Things that are Born in Coat-Armour, as Tortoises, Moles, Hedg-Hogs, Snails, Scorpions, Adders, Emmets, Grass­hoppers, Spiders, Toads, &c.

AREAL ANIMALS, as Fowl and Birds, are much used in Heraldry, which may be considered by their Feet, which are either whole and webby, as the Palm of a Mans Hand, as the Swans, Geese, Ducks, &c. or divided, as the Eagles, Fal­cons, Ravens, Herns, Peacocks, and other Fowls, and Birds of the Air.

All Fowl and Birds of what kind soever, must be Born in their natural Actions of going, sitting, standing or flying.

Concerning the Beaks or Bills, as also the Feet of Birds, all those that are either Whole-footed, or have their Feet divided, and yet have no Tallons, should be Termed Membred; but the Cock and all Birds of Prey must be Termed Ar­med. It is generally observed, that the Females of Birds of Prey are the noblest and the most hardy, which Nature hath so ordered, for that she takes care of her young.

The Parts and Members of Fowl are usually Born both Couped and Erazed.

The more fierce the Bird is, the better it is esteemed in Heraldry; so that the Eagle, which is the Prince of the Air, hath the preheminence of all others.

Fish are not of that esteem as Beasts or F [...]wl, yet much used; and as Birds have their Plumes, Wings and Trains for cutting their passage through the Air, so have Fish their Fins by which they guide themselves, cutting the Current of the Streams, their Course being directed by their Tayl, which serveth as the Helm, or Ruther of a Ship.

Fish are Born after a diverse manner, viz. di­rectly Vpright, Imbowed, Extended, Indorsed, Re­specting each other, Surmounting one another, Fretted, and Trianguled, &c.

All Fish that are Born Feeding, must be Term­ed Devouring, expressing what they Feed upon. All Fish raised directly Vpright, that have Fins, must be Blazoned Hauriant; and all born Trans­vers must be Blazoned Naiant, or Swiming. Fish are likewise Born in part, as the Claws and the Shells.

All these sundry sorts of Bearings aforesaid taken notice of, are Born in Fields single or more than one; 3 or 6 are the usual Number. They are also Born between, and charged upon the Honourable Ordinaries; Examples of all which are given in some Volumes of Heraldry published by me, Entituled Guillims Display of Heraldry, in Folio. An Essay to Heraldry in Octavo, and in a Map of Heraldry, Entituled Heraldry Royal, comprehending the Body of the said Art, Illustra­ted with apt and proper Figures.

But I have given some Examples thereof in the said Plate of Arms here inserted, begin­ning at Number 110, which are thus Blazoned. Gules, 3 Katherine-Wheels Or. 111, Sable, 10 Billets, 4, 3, 2, and 1, Argent. 112, Or, a Maunch Gules▪ 113, Gules, 3 Mallets Or. 114, Azure, a Cheveron between 3 Bells Or. 115, Gules, 2 Fret Argent. 116, Argent, Fretty Sable. 117, Ermin, on a Cross-Quarter pierced Argent 4 Ferdemolins Sable. 118, Azure 3 Lozenges Ar­gent. 119, Gules, a Muscle Argent; 120, Ar­gent on a Mount Proper, a Tower triple Towered Sable. 121, Azure, a Cheveron between 3 Tents Argent. 122, Gules, 3 Clarions Or. 123, Azure, [Page 235] 3 Banners displayed in Bend Glues. 124, Er­mine, a Cross-Bow in pale Bent Gules. 125, Gules, 3 Trumpets Or. 126, Argent, a Culvering Dis­mounted in Fess Sable. 127, Argent▪ 3 Battering Rams▪ Barways Proper, headed Azure▪ Armed and Garnished, Or. 128, Argent, 3 Scaling Lad­ders in Bend Sable. 129, Ermin, 3 Long-Bows in Pale bent Gules. 130, Azure, 3 Arrows Ar­gent. 131, Gules, 3 Pheons Argent. 132, Azure, 3 Spears-Heads Argent. 133, Gules, 3 Anchors 10 Or. 134, Azure, 3 Helmets Argent. 135, A­zure, 3 left Handed Gauntlets Or. 136, Gules, 3 Water-bougets Or. 137, Argent, a Sword erected in Pale▪ Sable. 138, Azure, 3 Swords in Pale, two with their Points downwards, the middlemost upwards, Argent. 139, Gules 3 Swords Barways their Points towards the sinister Point of the Escocheon Argent, pomeled Or. 140, Azure, a Sun in his Glory. 141, Or, a Sun E­clipsed. 142, Gules, an Increscent▪ Or. 143,20 Azure, a Moon in her Complement, or Glory Argent. 144, Azure, a Moon Decresient Proper. 145, Argent, a Moon in her Detriment Proper. 146, Azure, 3 Crescents Argent. 147, Argent, 3 Stars of 6 Rays Sable. 148, Or, 3 Mullets pierced Sable. 149▪ Argent, 3 Oaken Leaves pendant proper. 150, Or, 3 Laurel Leaves slipped proper. 151, Argent, 3 H [...]lly Leaves bendways Azure. 152, Or, 3 Fig-Leaves barways proper. 153, Argent, 5 Vine-Leaves in Saltier proper. 154, Gules, a Limb of 30 a Tre [...] Raguled and Truncked in Bend Argent. 155, Azure, 3 Cinquefoils Argent. 156, Gules, a Garb, or Wheat-Sheaf, Or. 157, Azure, a Flower­de- [...] Or. 158, Ermin, 3 Roses-Gules, seeded and barbed proper. 159, Argent, a Mans Leg erazed at the Thigh, Sable. 160, Gules, 3 Dexter-Arms conjoyned at the Shoulders, and flexed in Triangle, Or. 161, Azure, 3 Sinister-Hands couped at the Wrists, Argent. 162, Argent, an Arm Sinister issuing out of the Dexter Point, and 40 extended towards the Sinister Base in form of a Bend, Gules. 163, Or, a Mans Leg couped at the Thigh, Azure. 164, Gules, a Sarazens Head erazed at the Neck, Argent; and environed about the Temples with a Wreath of the Second, and Sable. 165, Argent, on a Cheveron Gules 3 deaths Heads of the Field. 166 Sable a Shin-bone in Pale, Surmounted of another in Cross, Argent. 167, Gutte; These Drops are of different natures, according to the Colour, for they still retain their shape.50 If Gules, they are Gutte de Sang, that is, Drops of Blood. If Azure, Gutte de Larmes, which are Tears. If Argent, Gutte de Eau, which are Drops of Water. If Sable, Gutte de Poix, which are Drops of Pitch: And if Yellow, Gutte d'Or, or Drops of Gold. 168, Or, a Lion Rampant Gules Crowned, Argent. 169, Argent, a Lion Rampant Gardant Sable. 170 Sable, a Lyon Rampant Regardant, Or. 171, Gules, a Lion Saliant Ar­gent. 172, Argent, a Lion Rampant Coward pur­pure.60 173, Or, a Lion Rampant double Teste, A­zure. 174, Azure, a Lion Rampant double Queve, Argent. 175, Or, 2 Liocels Rampant Combatant, Sable. 176, Gules, a Lion Passant Argent. 177, Azure, a Lion Passant Gardant Or. 178, Vert, a Lion Seiant Argent. 179, Or, a Lion Couchant Sable. 180, Gules, a Lion dormant, Or. 181, Vert, a Grey-Hound currant in Bent, Argent; Collered, Gules, 182, Vert, a Buck tripping Or. 183, Ar­gent, a Lions Head erazed Gules. 184, Gules, a Horses-Head Couped Argent. 185, Azure, a Bucks-Head Cabosed▪ Or. 186, Vert, a Cheveron between 3 Leopards Faces▪ Or. 187, Gules, 3 Lions Paws erazed Argent. Or. 188, Sable, 3 Bears-Paws couped, and erect, Argent. 189, Azure, an Eagle-displayed Argent. 190, Argent, an Eagle displayed with two Heads Sable. 191, Argent, a Raven proper. 192, Azure, 3 Cooks Argent; Armed, Crested, and Velloped Or. 193, Or, 3 Martlets Sable. 194, Azure, a Harpre Or. 195, Azure, 3 Bustarts rising Argent. 196, Gules, 3 Bees volant en Arriere Argent 197, Or, 3 Eagles-Heads erazed Sable. 198, Sable; 3 Eagles Legs, erazed a la Quise Argent. 199 Or, 2 Eagles legs Barways Erazed a la Quise Sable; Armed Gules. 200, Vert, a Tortoise passant Argent 201, Azure, a Tortoise erected Argent. 202, Sable, 3 House-Snails Argent▪ 203; Azure, [...]3. Dolphins Naiant Argent. 204, Vert, a Dolphin Naiant Imbowed Argent. 205, Gules, 3 Salmons Hauriant Or. 206, Azure, 2 Barbels Hauriant Regarding each other, Argent. 207, Gules 2 Pikes Hauriant Endorsed Or. 208. Sable, 3 Scallop-Shells Argent.

Marshalling and Impaling of Coats in one Shield.

BY Marshalling of Coats is to be understood, an orderly disposing of sundry Coat-Ar­mours pertaining to distinct Families; and some have their place within the Escocheon, and some without; Of those within, some have their Oc­casions obscure, and others manifest, as are those whose Marshalling (according to ancient form) do betoken Marriage, or some gift of the Sove­raign: such as do betoken Marriage, represents either a Match single, or Hereditary: By a single Match is meant the Conjoyning or Impaleing the Coat-Armour of the Man with that of the Wo­man; but if she be an Heiress, then her Coat is to be born in an Escocheon of Pretence in the midst of his Shield. It is also accustomary for Bishops to Impale on the Dexter-Side of the Shield, the Arms belonging to their Bishoprick; And if a Man hath had more than one Wife, the way of Bearing them is to Impale them be­twixt his own Coat, which is to be in the middle part of the Sheild.

External Ornaments.

EXternal Ornaments are Helmets, Torces, Caps, Crowns, Crests, Mantlings, Escroles, and Supporters to Noble-Men.

The Helmet is placed next above the Escoche­on, or Shield, to all under the Degree of a Noble-Man, and to those there is a Crown, according to the Quality of the Bearer, and the Helmet issueth out of the said Crown. The Helmet doth distinguish the Dignity of the Bearer; for to a Gentleman, and Esquire, the Helmet is placed Side-ways with the Beaver close; To a Knight, or Baronet, (which is all one) the Helmet is placed Fore-right, with the Beaver open. The Full-faced or Fore-right Helmet doth signifie Di­rection [Page 236] and Command; the close, Attention, and Obedience.

The open Helmet placed Side ways, with Bars, belongs to all the Nobility under the De­gree of his Majesty, except Soveraign Dukes, or of the Royal Blood; and to those the Helmet is placed Fore-right with open Bars; all which doth appear in the Circle of the Eliptical Table, as doth the several sorts of Crowns and Coronets, born by the Nobility, of which a word or two.10

The Barons Coronet is with six Pearls of an equal heighth, and distance, from each other.

The Viscounts Coronet is composed only of Pearls set close together, and of an equal height.

The Earls Coronet is composed of Points and Flowers, and the Points are spiry with Pearls on the top above the Flowers.

The Coronet, or Crownet of a Marquess, is of Leaves and Points, with the Leaves or Flowers 20 above the Points.

The Coronet of a Duke is only Floral.

The Coronet or Crownet of a Prince is the same with the Crown of a King, only the Arches, Mound, and Cross are omitted.

The Crown of a King is as a Duke, but with Arches, a Mound and a Cross.

To a Bishop, instead of a Coronet belongs a Miter.

Next above the Helmet is the Wreath or Torce, which is always of the principal Metal and Co­lour in the Bearets Paternal Coat; and on this Torce the Crest is placed, except to those Coats that have no Wreath, and then there is always instead therof a Mount, Hill, Cheapean, or Coro­net on which the Breast is placed.

About the Shield is the Mantle, which doth admit of several Forms, those most used are the Cloak-Mantles and the Folding Mantles; and the Colours are generaly Gules and Argent, that is, Mantled Gules, doubled Argent. But to Noble-Men instead of Argent the Doubling is Ermins.

On each side of the Shield of Noble-Men are the Supporters which stand on an Escrole, or on a Hill. The Escrole is at the Bottom of the Shield, in which is placed the Motto of the Bear­er, which is altogether according to the Fancy, and alterable at pleasure.

An Example of all which External Ornaments will appear by his Majesties Royal Atchievement; with the differences of other Bearings in the Ca­talogue of the Arms of the Subscribers to this Work, placed at the beginning of the Book, to which I refer the Reader.

The End of the First Part.
THE GENTLEMAN'S RECR …

THE GENTLEMAN'S RECREATION: TREATING OF

  • HORSMANSHIP,
  • HAWKING,
  • HUNTING,
  • FOWLING,
  • FISHING, and
  • AGRICULTURE;

WHICH Are Collected from the most Authentick AUTHORS, and the many gross Errors therein corrected; with great En­largements made by those well-experienced in the respective RECREATIONS.

And for the better Explanation thereof, great variety of useful SCULPTURES, as NETS, ENGINES, TRAPS, &c. are added for the Taking of BEASTS, FOWL, and FISH; not hitherto published by any.

The whole illustrated with divers Ornamental SCULPTURES, Engraven in Copper, relating to the several Subjects.

The Second Part:

LONDON, Printed for the Undertaker Richard Blome, Anno Domini 1686.

HORSMAN Ship Treats of HORSES & their

To the Honourable John Noel of [...]uffingham in Rutlandshire Esq third son of ye Right Honourable Baptist Noel Viscount Gamden &c:

This plate is humbly Dedicated by Ric. Blome.

[Page]

HORSMAN SHIPP

To the Rt Honble. Sr John Skeffington of Fisheriviek in Staffordshire Bart. Baron of Lough-neagh; Viscount Massereene, Cysstos Ro [...]ilorum &., Governour of ye County of London any and Towne of Coleraine & one of the Lords of his Ma [...]. most Honble. privy Councell of ye Kingdom of Ireland &ca.

This plate is humbly dedicated by Richard Blome.

HORSMANSHIP.

PART I.
Wherein is treated of Horses, their Kinds, Breeding, Keeping, Vses, &c.

CHAP. I.
The Introduction.

A Horse is a Creature so excellent in his nature, and so generally useful, that all ranks and degrees of Men, either for pleasure or profit, are glad to make use of his 10 Service. If you have seen a General at the head of his Army, and take notice of his Horse under him, I need not tell you what an Air of Maje­sty and Greatness that Noble Creature has; and if you have been in a Battle, to give you an ac­count of his Vigour, Activity, and Courage is as needless: But if you are a stranger to these sort of things, and seek not a Horse for any such Imployment, go to the Huntsman, the Traveller, and the Husbandman, they will all tell you 20 what pleasant Companions and necessary Ser­vants Horses are. It would be endless to give a particular Account of their admirable nature and great usefulness; but if you consider what long Journeys are performed on Horsback, and in Coach; what heavy Loads and Burthens are drawn and carried from place to place in City, Camp, and Country; what delight and pleasure is taken in Hunting, Hawking, Racing, &c. to the increasing of Health and Vigour: In a word, if 30 you consider that to the most glorious Triumphs and solemn Pomps, in business of all sorts, and in our pleasantest and most manly Recreations, a Horse is some way or other assisting; you can­not but conclude, That of all those Creatures that are made for the profit and delight of Man­kind, a Horse is the most excellent, and conse­quently, That Horsmanship is a very great Accom­plishment in a Person of Quality, or Gentle­man.40

The Design therefore of this Discourse is to lay down the Principles of Horsmanship in a short and clear method; I think it may be called The Knowledge of Horses, and the Art of Riding well. I shall speak only of such things as are most use­ful and necessary to be known by the Gentry; as the several kinds of Horses, the Rules for Breed­ing and Keeping them, what uses several sorts of Horses are fittest for, and the like; avoiding the impertinent humour of too many Authors, who endeavour nothing more than to make a show of their own Knowledge, and nothing less than the benefit and advantage of those for whom they write. If I should treat at large, some parts of this Discourse would require Volumes; and there­fore when I speak in general, and give only the Grounds of things, I hope it will not offend the Reader. It may be of use to him who is a good Proficient, and not an improper Grammar for one that is beginning to learn; and I doubt not of its Approbation by the Judicious and experienced Horsman.

CHAP. II.
Of the several sorts of Horses most in use.

Of the Turkish Horse.

THe Turkish Horse has a great deal of beau­ty and fire, being extraordinary swift; with a good Mare he breeds very fine Colts, (especial­ly for the Race) of which some of our Breeders have had the experience: But the Turks are so unwilling to part with their Breeds, that of those that come into England, there are but very few (if any) good in their kind.

Of the Barb, or Barbary Horse.

THe Barb is very docile and gentle, being of all Horses in the World the easiest to be managed, having naturally a very graceful Acti­on, and a good Disposition; he is of himself so [Page 2] negligent and lazy in his walk, that he is apt to stumble even sometimes in plain Ground; but when he is wakened, and rode upon his mettle, no Horse is more nimble, vigorous and adroit, and better for an Action of one or two hours. He makes a good Stallion to breed Runing Horses out of, the Colts that he gets being generally well winded, fleet and good at bottom. The Duke of Newcastle was of Opinion, That a Barb, though a Jade, would get a better Horse for a 10 Course than the best Runing Horse in England; and so was Sir John Fenwick of Northumberland, being a Man of great experience, and esteemed to have one of the best Breeds of Horses in this Kingdom. The Duke of Newcastle was likewise of Opinion, and not without reason, That the choisest Barbs are not brought over: And his Reasons are, because they are bought up by Mer­chants, or such that buy the cheapest for advan­tage; nor do they know how to choose those 20 that are good.

Of the Spanish Horse.

THis Horse, if he be well chosen, is of a noble Kind, his Shape being exact and cu­rious, not so thin and slight as the Barb, nor so gross as the Neapolitan, but between both, being formed by Nature for strength as well as beauty. He is very docile, hath a great spirit and cou­rage; 30 And 'tis credibly reported of their best Breeds in Spain, that in their Exercise of Riding at the Bull, when a Horse happens to be so sharply wounded that his Guts hang out, he will yet o­bey his Rider, and continue his Action to the utmost of his strength, though at the same time he tramples upon his Bowels. He hath the proudest walk and Trot, with the best action in his trot, the loftiest Gallop, the swiftest Careers, and yet is the gentlest Horse; and if he be good 40 in his kind, is very proper for Generals and great Officers, none being more graceful in a day of Tri­ample, or useful in a day of Battel.

Of the Dutch or Flanders Horse.

THere are a sort of Dutch or Flanders Horses which we make use of in England, which are the fittest in the World for the Coach; espe­cially for the Town for a fine Equipage, where 50 they must draw great weight, and be continu­ally upon the Stones; for they are large and beautiful in their Kind, and having a graceful and lofty trot, they give a better Air to a Coach than any Horses whatsoever; besides that, they are stronger, and will endure the Pavement bet­ter.

Of the English Horse, &c.60

WE have in England several good Breeds; our Running Horses, Hunters and Pads, and our Horses for all manner of fatigue of what nature soever, are not to be matched in all Eu­rope; nor is any Horse better for an Officer in the War, than one of those which we call our Twelve-Stone Horses, (such as usually run for Plates) if he be well chosen, and taken in time. He must be naturally of a good disposition (which for the generality our English Horses are not) and one of the strongest of that sort, with good Reins and Limbs, and a Head well set on; and he must be put to the Manage before he is accusto­med too much to go upon his Shoulders, and to have his Will; for I believe that which spoils a great many of our English Horses, rendring them so unfit for the Great Saddle, is the Snaffle Bridle, and our particular method of Training and Galloping, so that when they come to be 7 or 8 years old, they are grown so Head-strong, and their way of going is become so customary, that there is no possibility of putting them upon the Haunch, or bringing them into any manner of Subjection, either of the Hand, or Heel.

There are several other kinds of Horses, which I omit, because we meet with them but rarely in England, amongst which may be reckoned the Arabian, a Horse of an excellent nature, and very beautiful.

CHAP. III.
Of Stallions.

IF you would choose a Stallion aright, you must consider the use you design to breed for; for Example, if you would breed for the Manage (I mean the most useful part which is termed Manage de Guere, of which I shall speak in its proper place) let your Stallion be a Turk, Barb, or Spaniard, one that is good in his kind, and naturally of a docile and gentle Temper, though lively, vigorous, and bold in Actions. His Neck, and Crest must be so turned, and his Head so set on, as not to hinder his reining well; for which you must observe that his Neck be form­ed like an Arch, his Crest not too much char­ged with Flesh, his Head when he stands in his own natural posture, falling as it were perpendi­cularly towards the ground, and his Jaw-Bones standing so wide, that his Head may not want room to play.

If you would Breed for Hunting, or the Race, make choice of a Turk, or Barb, or a Well-bred English-Horse, that ha's given proofs of his Good­ness and Speed.

If you would Breed for the Road, make choice of a good strong Hunter, that has naturally good Legs and Feet, a short Back, and good Quarters, and let him be one that is not of a Skittish, or Stubborn Temper; or if you are cu­rious and would have very fine Padds, you may take the same measures which I told you before for the Manage, only Geld your Colts, and when you break them, if they take it well, let them be taught to Amble.

Ti's needless to give directions for Breeding any other sorts of Horses; As for the Coach, Wagon, Cart, Servants, and all manner of Drudge­ry, because there is not that Nicety required in their Breed; and from the Fairs and Horse-Cour­sers [Page 3] you may be supplyed, and save that trou­ble.

CHAP. IV.
Of Mares.

10

HAving told you how to choose your Stalli­ons, it will be necessary to give you some directions about the Mares; and certainly none in the World are better to Breed on than our En­glish, provided you Suit them to your particu­lar design; for instance, if you would Breed for the Manage or Pads, let your Mares have fine Fore-hands, with their Heads well set on, but not too long Necks; broad Breasts, large and 20 Sparkling Eyes, and great Bodies, that their Foals may have room enough to lye; with good Limbs and Feet; let them be of a gentle and good disposition, and their motions naturally nimble and Graceful; In a word, remember al­ways that the more good qualities your Mares have, the better will your Colts generally prove.

If you would Breed for the Race, and Hunt­ing, your Mares must be lighter, with short 30 Backs and long Sides; their Legs must be some­thing longer, and their Breasts not so Broad, and always make choise of such as you are sure have good Blood in their Veins. If you have tryed the Speed, and Wind of any particular Mare, and find it good, you may the surer expect a good Colt, provided she be still in her full Health and Vigour, and not above Seven years old, or eight at most; for the younger your Breeders are, the better the Colts will be.40

CHAP. V.
Of a Soil fit to Breed in, and of Pastures.50

ONe of the first things (which you ought to consider) if you design to Breed, is the commodiousness of the Place, and the Pa­stures where your Horses, Mares, and Colts are to run. For he that Breeds in a place unfit for it, loses his Mony and Pains, and will never have good Horses.

The Ground must not be too rank of Grass, nor too bare, but a firm and sweet Soil Situate in a clear and wholesom Air, where there are 60 Hills, and running Waters, with Quick-setts, and spreading Trees to shelter them from the Wind, Rain and Sun. Nor must they be conti­nued always in the same Pastures, but often re­moved into fresh, observing still to put them in­to the Shortest feedings in Summer, and the Richest in Winter, at which time of the year they must have a Hovel, a Hay-Rick, or some convenient place to defend them from the Wea­ther.

CHAP. VI.
Of the Time and Manner of Co­vering.

YOur next Care must be about the Time and Manner of Covering. The best time to have your Mares Covered is in May, for then your Colts will fall the April following, at which time there will be sweet and fresh Grass for them; the manner is as follows; Let your Stallion, having eaten Grass for some time be­fore, and been so high fed, that he is full of lust and vigour, be brought to the place where your Mares are (his hinder Shoes being taken off) there let him Cover a Mare in hand twice or thrice to make him sober, then pull off his Bridle and turn him loose to the rest of the Mares, which must be in a convenient Close, not without strong Fences and good Food; and thus you must leave him till he has covered them all, so that they will take Horse no more, by which time his Courage will be pretty well cooled: More than ten or twelve Mares is too much for one Horse in the same year. You must have some little House or Hovell to defend him from the Rain, Sun and Weather (which are very weakning) and a Manger to feed him in du­ring the time of Covering; and you would do well to have one to watch him all the while for fear of danger, and the better to know how oft he covers each Mare. All this being observed, when you have taken away your Stallion remove your Mares into some fresh Pastures.

CHAP. VII.
Of Colts.

WHen your Colts are fallen, you may let them run with their Dams till about Michaelmass (sooner or later, according as the Cold weather comes in,) then you must wean them, and let them be kept in a convenient House with a low Rack and Manger for their Hay and Oats, which must be sweet and good, with a little Wheat-bran sometimes mixt with the Oats, to cause them to drink and keep their Bodies open; and above all they must be kept from Wet and Cold, which are the hurtfullest things imaginable to them, nothing being more tender, as the Duke of Newcastle in his Book proves more at large. For proof of this take a Spanish Stallion, and let him Cover two Mares, [Page 4] which for age, beauty and comliness may admit of no difference betwixt them, and if they be both Horse-Colts, or both Fillies (which is one and the same) let one run abroad until it be Three years and an half old, and let the other be Housed every Winter, kept warm, and or­derly tended, as aforesaid; and that Colt that hath been kept abroad shall have great fleshy Shoulders, flabby and gouty Legs, weak Pa­sterns, with ill Hoofs, and shall be a dull and 10 heavy Jade in comparison to the other, which is Housed and orderly kept as aforesaid; which will have a fine Fore-hand, be well shaped, have good Legs and Hoofs, and be of good strength and spirit: By which you may under­stand, that to have the finest Stallion and the beautifullest Mare is nothing, provided you spoil them in their Breeding.

It is not amiss to let your Colts play an hour or two in some Court-yard, or the like place, when 20 'tis fair weather; provided you put them up a­gain carefully, and see that they take no hurt.

When the Winter is spent, let them be turned into some dry Ground where the Grass is short and sweet, and where there is good Water that they may drink at pleasure; for it is not neces­sary that a Colt immediately fill his Belly like a Horse that labours hard. The next Winter you may take them into the House, and use them just as your other Horses. But let not your 30 Horse-Colts and Fillies be kept together after the first year; This Method you may observe every Summer and Winter till you break them; which may be done after Three years old, and will be so easie a thing, if you observe the aforesaid Method of Housing them and ordering them the Second year, as you do other Horses, that they will be so tame and gentle, that you need not fear their plunging, leaping, kicking, or the like Coltish tricks, for they will take the Saddle quietly: for 40 all these ridiculons ways of Beating and Cowing them to tame them, is in effect spoiling them, what ere they call it, in plowed Fields, deep Ways, or the like; instead of which let their Ri­der strive to win them by gentle usage, never correcting them but when it is necessary, and then with Judgment and Moderation.

You need not a Cavezone of Cord, which is a Head-strain, nor a Pad of Straw, but only an ordinary Saddle, and on his Nose an ordinary 50 Cavezone, as you Ride other Horses with; but it must be well lined with double Leather, as the rest are, and if you think fit, you may put in his Mouth a Watering-Bit without Reins, only the Head-stall, and this but for a few days, and then to put such a Bit as he should be always rid with: And be sure use not Spurs for some time after Backing.

Observe, that Yearlings must be kept abroad 60 together; so those of Two years old together; the like for those of Three Yearlings, which or­dering is most agreeable to them.

CHAP. VIII.
Of the several Vses of Horse, to Men of Quality and Gentle­men.

THE several Uses of Horses to Men of Quali­ty and Gentlemen, may be reduced to these three Heads, viz. for the Saddle, Burthen and Draught. The Uses of the Saddle, are for the War, Hunting, the Race or Pad; of Burthen, for Sum­ters, Packs, and such kind of Baggage; and of Draught, for the Coach, Carriages, Waggens, Carts, Plough, and the like.

A Horseman should consider these things, that every Horse may be put to the use he is fittest for, concerning which I refer you to the five fol­lowing Chapters, which treat of Riding the Great Horse, of Hunting, of the Race, of the Pad, of the Coach, &c.

CHAP. IX.
Of Riding the Great Horse.

THere is certainly no Exercise more Noble and Manly than this of the Manege; It makes a man firm and easie on Horseback, and vigorous and adroit in Action: It increaseth health and strength; for none under the ill consequences of a Debauch, be it of Wine or Women, can per­form this Exercise as he ought, being as unfit for it in such a case, as to go to Bed to a fair Lady: It also gives a graceful and Martial Air, which one may perceive in some fine Horsmen, (even when they are on foot) and therefore when the French would commend any Person that has a good Mean, they say Il a l' Air fort Cavalier.

We may consider it in two parts; First, that sort of Manege, which is proper for the Cheval d'Escole; Secondly, that which is proper for the Cheval de Guere. The Cheval d' Escole is taught several Airs and Lessons, which as they require a great deal of Vi­gour and Address (as the Gall [...]pade-Relevée, Caprioles, Ballotades, &c.) so they are necessary to be learnt in Academies, to give young Men a firm, and easy Seat, and a good Hand upon a Horse; making them capable of humouring all manner of Horses according as it is requisite; but are not in them­selves, absolutely necessary, nor of any use in Acti­on, unless at Carousels, Triumphs, and the like. The Cheval de Guere is taught only such Lessons, as are necessary in the Field, and without which one cannot attack a good Horseman but upon very great disadvantages.

The confounding of these two, and not being able to distinguish the one from the other, makes a great many talk very ignorantly about Manag'd Horses, some despising the whole Art of Riding the Great Horse, because for want of Education they [Page]

The Manag'd Horse

To the Worshipfull John Cutts of Arksden in Essex & of Childerly in Cambridgshire Esq.

This Plate is humbly Dedicated by Richard Blome.

Wyke del [...]n▪ Sol [...] scul [...]

[Page] [Page 5] know nothing of it, whilst others are such formal Academists, that they pretend every Lesson is as necessary in Action, as Stopping, Turning, and the like: Both these are in the wrong; the first through Ignorance the latter too often through Affectation; and I believe Mistakes of this nature have been partly the cause why the Great Saddle has been so slighted and neglected in England for some years past: But the present King is a Lover of Marshal Exercises, and therefore we may hope to see them 10 Flourish more than they have done; in order to it, his Majesty ha's been pleased to make choise of Monsieur de Foubert (for the Governing of an Academy) one of the best Masters in Europe, a Well bred, Good natured, and Ingenious Person, who ha's a Stable of very fine Horses, and the best Masters for all sorts of Exercises, that are necessary for the accomplishment of a Gentleman. In a word, one that neither wants necessary qua­lications, nor spares any pains to teach and im­prove 20 the Youth committed to his charge in all things that are to be learned in an Academy.

But (to return to my business in Hand) the Ma­nege d' Escole, and the Manege de Guere must both of them be learnt by every one that designs to be a good Horsman, though 'tis necessary to distinguish the one from the other, that a man my know what Lessons are only for the Academy, or the like, and what to make use of in the Field, 30 or against an Enemy. A good Master will make you understand the difference; so that I need not give you an Account here of all those Airs, and Lessons which belong to the Manege d' Escole; and indeed, it would take up too much room for this design: Therefore when you have been long e­nough in an Academy to be firm, and easy, and have a good Hand upon a Horse, remember ro take notice of this distinction, that you may know how to chuse a Horse for the Field, or Action 40 (for amongst fifty good Academy-Horses 'tis hard to meet with Ten that are good for the War) and take in short, the following Account of the Qualifications of a good Horse for Service.

In the Manege de Guere a Horse must be taught to Gallop true, and change readily; to go off from the hand like an Arrow from a Bow, and stop or turn at a Point; to obey the Hand and Heel in advancing or retiring upon a strait Line, or other­wise; or in going Sideways to the Right or Left; 50 to Rise before (a Courbets) enough to keep him al­ways upon the Haunch; to endure Fire, and to Charge up boldly against any thing: And all this must be done with willingness, ease, and subjecti­on. For 'tis a Maxim in Horsmanship, That a Horse must never do any thing of his own head, but in obedience to his Rider, and no more than he re­quires of him; as also, that a Horse can never per­form any Action gracefully or well, that he doth with an aversion and uneasiness. This is that which 60 is necessary for a good War-Horse, and in this the Rider must be as perfect as the Horse, otherwise he will be so far from receiving any advantage from his goodness and address, that he will not only find himself often out of order (by making his Horse do things mal à propos,) but in a little time quite spoil him, and make him good for nothing.

But I will not undertake in this Discourse to teach you to Ride, it being an Exercise, that as it is the finest and most useful of all (whatever some pretend that never could attain unto it) so it is the hardest to be perfect in, and is ne­ver learnt well without a great deal of Industry, as well in the Practick, as the Theorick part, and that under careful and diligent Masters. It is as necessary for a Young man, that designs to be a good Horsman, to perform his course of Exercise in an Academy; as for him that whould be a great proficient in Learning, to run through his course of Philosophy, Logick, &c. in the Vniversity. I shall therefore undertake only to give some gene­ral Directions which may be of use to such as learn and practice this Noble Exercise. And I can't imagine how a Young man of Quality (when by reason of his Tender years he is not ripe enough for Business and Action) can spend his time better, than in learning the Exercises of the Body, together with those of the Mind; by which (provided he be under good Masters and Governours) he will find so great an advantage, that he will not only be fitter to serve his Prince, when occasion serves, with a vertuous Mind and a strong and active Body; but avoid that lewd Effeminacy and those unmanly Extravagances, which so many are ruined by through Ease and Idleness.

'Tis to be hoped therefore (how negligent soe­ver some are Educated) that a great many of our Young Nobility and Gentry will be induced, by their Parents Care, or their own Inclinations, to follow the great Example of the Roman Youth (who were a glorious Instance of the advantage of good Education) and convince the World by their Actions and Behaviour, that they have spent their time as well in the Academy, as the others did in their Campo Martis.

For the Service of such active and well dis­posed Youth, I shall set down these following Rules and Directions; not that a good Master will omit them, but as they are fundamental Principles of Horsmanship, 'tis not amiss to have them in Writing, that by reading and considering them, they may never fail to have them at com­mand.

The first thing to be considered by a Young Horsman, is how to Approach and Mount his Horse with safety, gracefulness, and convenience, which must be as follows; If there be but one present to assist him (which may sometimes hap­pen to Persons of great Quality in the War, or the like) let him place himself on the Right-side of the Horse, holding his Head with one hand and the Stirrup with the other; then let him that is to Mount, walk up to the Horse, not directly before him, lest if the Horse be fearful of him he put him in disorder, or if merry and wanton he should strike him with one of his Fore-feet: nor behind him for fear of the same Accident from his Hind-feet (for a Mischance falls out sometimes in a Minute, that has not hapned be­fore in an Age;) but let him approach him on the Left-side over against the Shoulder, inclining something more to his Head than his Flank: This done, let him examine if the Bridle be well [Page 6] placed in his Mouth, the Curb right, his Girts fast, and every thing in good order; and then taking the Reins in his Left Hand, and the Pum­mel of the Saddle (or a Lock of his Main) and laying his Right Hand fast upon the hinder part of the Saddle, let him place himself in the Seat: And let him endeavour to get a habit of doing this with so much case and liberty, that his mo­tion may not seem forced or painful, nor the Horse receive any inconvenience, or apprehension 10 by his swagging him, or falling heavy into the Saddle, or brushing his Buttocks with his right Leg, which are often the faults of unwildy, awk­ward and heedless People.

When he is mounted, having the Reins in his Left Hand, with his Thumb upon them, and his little Finger between to separate the right from the left Rein, let him take the end, (or Button) in his right hand, and lifting up his Arm with a loose and careless Air adjust his Bridle, so that 20 it be neither too long nor too short, and so hold it fast in its proper place, which must be three or four Fingers breadth above the Pummel of the Saddle, and exactly before him. Let him put himself from head to foot in the true posture of a good and fine Horseman. He must be placed in the middle of the Saddle, (not touching, if pos­sible, any other part of it) and rest upon his Twist, not his Buttocks, keeping himself all over straight and easie, as if he were on foot, his shoul­ders 30 just with the right, something forward, his Stomach advanced, holding his Elbows (equally and unaffected) at a little distance from his Bo­dy; his right Hand at about three or four Fin­gers distance from the left, grasping the handle of his Switch or Sword, with the point upwards, a little enclining to the Horses left Ear, his Legs a little forward, with his Toes pressing firm upon the Stirrups near his Horses Shoulders, his Heels lower than his Toes, and turned outwards, his 40 Knees fast as if they were glewed, which with the Counterpoise of the Body, by observing time is all that makes a Man firm on Horseback: No­thing shew's a good Horseman more than to sit Free and Airy, and nothing shews more ridicu­lous than to see one sit in a starch'd and formal way like a Statue.

This is the true posture of the Great Saddle, that he must keep himself in, what-ever Airs or Lessons the Horse performs, allowing only for 50 different Aids, and the various counterpoise of the Body, according as necessity requires.

The Counterpoise of the Body must be in Gal­loping something backwards, both for the Grace­fulness of the Posture, and that the Horse may with more ease keep himself upon his Haunch; the same is requisite in a Trot, or any other Pace, and especially always in stopping, for in that case it is not only graceful, and easie to the Horse, but prevents great disorder, which arrives 60 sometimes by a Mans jolting forwards almost touching his Horses Neck. The like is to be ob­served in Voltes, Demy-voltes, &c. Unless a Horse be rough and Leaps; which if he doth, his Rider must observe to keep time with him, leaning back­wards when his Croup is in the Air, and forwards when he rises before, without confusion, or dis­order.

And the better to know the different Aids, let him take notice and remember, that there is in the Managed Horse two Motions, viz. that of the Shoulders, and that of the Haunch; now that of Shoulder is governed by the Hand, and that of the Haunch by the Heel.

The motion of the Hand is thus, if he turns to the right, he must turn his Bridle-hand, so that his Nails come upwards, removing it little or nothing out of the place: if to the left, he must keep it in its own natural posture without turning, only moving it a little to the left. In both these motions he must feel his Horse's Mouth, and work it insensibly as occasion requires. When a Horse carries his head in the right place, and stedy, his Neck pliant, and obeys these Aids rea­dily, we say he is well in the Hand.

The motion of the Heel is as follows; when he is Galloping upon the Volte, Demi-volte or the like, and would have his Horse keep his Croup in­wards (which is necessary) he must stretch out his Leg on that side to which he turns, and move the other nearer to the Horses Belly, so that he may feel the motion. If he would make his Horse go sideways upon a right line, he must first put his Shoulders in motion, and then give the same Aids with his Legs as before, and when ever his Horse (of himself, as by any accident) throws his Croup this way or that way, by mov­ing one of his Legs to him, and stretching out the other, he will rectifie him. A Horse that is well Managed will obey these Aids, if rightly given, and then we say he is well in the Heel.

In these Aids of the Hand, and the Heel, lies the Art of making a Managed Horse perform all his Lessons with exactness, which is not so easy a thing as some imagine, who think if a Horse be perfect, the Rider has nothing to do but sit still upon his Back; because if he doth but sit fast, and keep in Action, they look after no more, not heeding whether he guides the Horse, or the Horse him. But let an ill Horseman be upon never so good a Horse and never so well managed, if he Rides before a good Judge, or Fights with a good Horseman, his weakness will certainly ap­pear. Let him therefore that begins to Learn, make it his first business to get a good Seat, a true and exact posture, without stifness, or af­fectation, to gain which, let him add his own ob­servation to his Masters directions, and making choise of some well shaped Person (who is known to be a fine Horseman) let him observe his posture and motions, endeavouring to imitate them, for we are apt to learn faster from Examples before our eyes, than from the best directions that can be given.

In the next place let him endeavour to get a just hand upon a Horse, and to give his Aids true, and à propos, which must be done by a constant application, and a good Memory; and by working with his Head, as well as his Body. And lastly, I would advise him to stick to it till he is so far Master of a Horse, that he is not on­ly able to Ride one that is Managed to his hand, but to teach a young Horse himself. For though the teaching a young Horse be too great a drudgery [Page]

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[Page] [Page 7] for a Person of Quality, so that it is not fit he should practice it, yet unless he knows what belongs to it, he will not be capable of Judging when his Riders commit Errors, and whether his Horses be well Managed or no. And when he leaves the Academy, let him be sure to be easie, and unaffected on Horseback, with a loose and manly Gayety, free from scrued Grimances, and stiff Postures. For some young Sparks upon their first leaving an Academy, have their heads 10 so turned with it, that they are for Managing all Flesh alive, even to the Post-horse, and are in the same Postures a Hunting, Hawking, and the like, that they ought to be in at the head of a Squadron; whereas a compleat Horseman distin­guishes always what Horse he is upon, and what he is doing; If he is upon a War-horse going to charge, he puts himself in a firm posture, and considers how he shall Attack, or defend; If a Hunting, his Stirrups are shortned for the ease of 20 his Horse, and his posture is more negligent and loose: If for Riding a Course, or Heats, his Feet are home in the Stirrups, his Elbows close to his Body, lying snug upon his Horse, that he may have the advantage of the Counterpoise, which doth not hinder the Running so much before: In a word, a good Horseman knows how to make use of all Horses for all uses, and in all pla­ces.

I shall not trouble you with a Journal of Les­sons 30 for Managing Horses, for if you are an Ar­tist it is needless, if not, you must know (what ever some Men have pretended) ti's a thing not to be got by Book, as a Lesson of Musick is: I will only tell you one thing and so conclude this Chapter, and that is, never to put a young Horse to the Manege, that is not naturally made and disposed for it. He must be of a good kind, strong and vigorous, and yet light and nimble, with good Reins and Limbs, his Neck and Crest 40 must be well formed, and his Head well set on, &c. (according to the former directions, Chap. 7.) he must naturally have good motions which you, may guess at, by seeing him Walk and Trot, and strikeing him gently to see how he presents himself; and he must also be of a good temper: without these qualities the best Rider throws a­way his pains, and the owner his Money. For some Horses are so awkward, stubborn and dog­ged, having such skittish, resty and Cross-grained 50 Tricks, that tis as easie to teach a Dromedary to fetch and carry, as to make them fit for any A­ction, or service in the War. Therefore when you have a good Horse, prize him, for they are very rare, though of so much use and conse­quence: And if you have two or three particular Horses that you would choose in an occasion to venture your life upon, keep them for their proper business, and put them to nothing un­necessary that will fatigue them, or batter their 60 Limbs.

CHAP. X.
Of Hunting, or Hunting Horses.

HVnting is (or at least ought to be) a plea­sing and profitable Exercise, intended to make us strong and active, and to recreate and de­light the Mind: therefore a Horsman that is of a warlike nature, ought to choose such sorts of Hunting as are most capable to answer those ends; such as hunting the Stag, Buck, Fox, and the like, and in other Countries that of the Wild-Boar and Wolf. And as on the one side, I would not re­commend to him deep mouthed Hounds, that sort of hunting being too lazy an Exercise for one that would keep himself in vigour; so on the other side, I would not advise him to such very fleet ones as some of the Northern, t [...]at the fol­lowing them is more properly called runing than hunting; and my Reason is, because to follow those extraordinary fleet ones, a Man must have such light Horses, and keep them so finely and nicely, that they are not fit for any other Ser­vice; not that I would have them put to any o­ther, but when occasion requires: As if a Man were to go to the Army on a suddain, if his Hunters be a good strong sort of Horses, with firm Limbs, and not too tenderly kept, what a great convenience it is to him, I leave to any one to judge.

I shall not trouble you with any other directi­ons for the choosing a Hunting Horse, than to be sure that he has good wind and speed, that he is naturally of a healthful and hardy Constitution, and withal that he has so much strength (that as I said before) you may, if you have a mind to it, make use of him at the Army for marching, and the like; and above all, keep him not too tenderly, lest when you take him from hunting for another use, you find his Body not hardy e­nough to suffer a new method of keeping.

Some of our well-bred Twelve-stone Horses; that have been sent abroad, have proved extra­ordinary good for the War.

It is very requisite to make a Hunting Horse acquainted with a Bit, and to teach him a little to stop and turn, which not only hinders him from galloping upon his shoulders, and makes him surer footed than otherwise perhaps he would be, but renders him more capable of being fitted for the War when ever you have a mind to it.

I need not say much in telling you how to ride a Hunting Horse, the great Saddle being the ground of all; in short, you must mount him as directed in the former Chapter, and sit in the same posture, only make your Stirrups shorter, and let your Legs fall nearer the Horses sides. In gal­loping lean forwards to ease him, and if you have a Snaffle Bridle, in hard riding, lay your right hand upon the Rein of the same side, the better to feel your Horse, and because sometimes you can't turn him with one hand.

[Page 8] In other Countries they hunt in light Bits, and though a Snaffle be very pleasant and easie, yet I am of the Opinion that a Bit is much more ad­vantageous, in that it makes the Horse have a bet­ter mouth, and the Rider a better hand.

I would not have any thing in this Chapter offend such Persons as are wholly Strangers to Military Affairs, and not at all inclined that way, keeping their Horses only for pleasure and ordi­nary business, they may (if they please) go on 10 still in their own Road; what I have said will be no inconvenience to them, and may be of service to such as love the War, and warlike Exercises.

CHAP. XI.
Of the Race, or Race-Horses.20

IF you would have good Running Horses, they should be thus shaped; let them be as light as possible, large and long, but well shaped, with a short back, long sides, and a little long legged, and narrow breasted, for such will gal­lop the lighter and nimbler, and run the faster.

The excellent Breeds of Running Horses that we have in England, though (through the several 30 Abuses which have been made) they have been unfortunately mischievous to a great many Per­sons, yet if rightly regulated, and made use of, might be very advantageous to the Kingdom, as well as pleasant and diverting to Men of Quali­ty.

The advantage is this; by having Plates run for at several times, and in several Counties, we come to know exactly the Speed, Wind, Force, and Heart of every Horse that runs, which di­rects 40 us infallibly in our choise when we have a mind to furnish our selves for the War, Hunting, Breeding, the Road, and the like; whereas if we could see no such Trial made, we must stand more to our hazards, and should not be so sure to meet with good ones: For a Horse may tra­vel well, hunt well, and the like, and yet when he comes to be pent hard, and forc'd to the top and extremity of what he can do, may prove not good at heart; and what Person of Quality 50 is not glad to Breed or buy the best? The same failure in Nature which makes a Horse faint-hearted when he is strained to his utmost, and kept to it, will make him so if he is desperately wounded: For some Runing Horses that have wanted neither wind nor speed, have been beaten only by their Hearts sinking in them when they come to be hard prest.

As for the regulating this matter, I could wish that our Nobility and Gentry would not make a 60 trade of Racing so much as some have done. When they run only for Plates, or their Matches are for no more than may be lost without da­mage to their Estates, 'tis very innocent diver­sion; but to run for so great a Sum that the loss can't be well born, and consequently one must en­deavour to win the same (if not more) back again, it draws one into vast Expenses by way of pre­paration for a Revenge; and then if a second ill Fortune comes, I need not relate the unhappy consequence; but if one proves successful, he is apt to fancy he shall prove so again, and so be­fore he thinks on't, he is declared a Jocky, sets up for a Brother of the Spur, and runs so fast, that sometimes neither his Estate nor Friends can keep along with him, turning his Diversion into a Misfortune.

I shall speak of the Methods of ordering Run­ing Horses, when I come to the last part of this Discourse, which is of Keeping. We will there­fore now suppose a Horse set to run for a Plate, and that the Hour of starting is at hand.

When the Drum beats, or the Trumpet sounds (according to the Custom of the place where you run) to give notice for stripping and weighing, In the first place be sure to have your Stomach empty, only taking something to keep out the wind, and to strengthen you. If you are so light that you must carry weight, let it be shot, equally quilted in your Waistcoat; but if you are just weight it is better, for then you have only to dress you according to your own fancy. Your Cloaths should be of coloured Silk, or of white Holland, as being very advantageous to the Spe­ctators. Your Waistcoat and Drawers must be made close to your Body, and on your Head a little Cap tied on: Let your Boots be gartered up fast, and your Spurs must be of good Met­tal.

Thus equipped, you are to mount, and come to the place of Starting, where going off briskly or gently, as occasion requires, make your Horse perform the Course or Heat according to your de­sign intended. For Example: If you would win the same, and your Horse excells in goodness more than speed, start him off roundly, and run him to the very top of what he can do during the whole Course or Heat, and by that means, if the Horse you run against be not so good at bottom, though he has more speed, you shall beat him, because he will be run off of it a great way be­fore he comes to the end: But on the contrary, if your Horses Talent be speed, all that you can do is to wait upon the other Horse, and keep behind him till you come almost to the Stand, and then endeavour to give a Loose by him. Some­times when you are to run more Heats than one, it will be your Policy to lose a Heat; and in such a case, for the easing and safeguard of your Horse, you must lye behind all the way, as much as you can, provided you bring him in within distance.

As for your Posture, place your self upon your Twist with your Knees firm, and your Stirrups just at such a length, that when your Feet are thrust home in them, you can raise your self a little in the Saddle; for without that allowance your Legs will not be firm when you come to run: The counterpoise of your Body must be forwards to facilitate your Horses runing, and your Elbows must be close to your Body; but above all, be sure not to incommode your Horse by swagging this way or that way, as some do; for since Weight is a great matter in runing, and a trouble some [Page]

Horse Raceing.

[Page 8] [...] [Page] [...] [Page] [Page 9] Rider is as bad as so much more weight. I need not tell you how necessary it is to take great care of your feat and hand; you must therefore be­ware of holding your self by the Bridle, or of jobbing your Horses mouth upon any occasion; you must take your right Rein in the same hand, holding up your Horse, &c. as you find it neces­sary, and every now and then remove the Bri­dle in his mouth. But these things are learn't better by Experience and Practice than by Book.10

When a Plate is run for by Heats, every Man that rides must weight just at Starting in great Scales brought into the Field for that purpose, and at the end of the same Heat: For if you want of your weight at comming in, you shall lose your Heat, although you are the first Horse. Between the first and second Heat, you have half an hour to rub your Horses, and then the Drum or Trumpet giving warning again, you mount, &c. as before, and so till you have finished all,20 which is sometimes three Heats, and sometimes three Heats and a Course, according to the cu­stom of the place.

I forbear saying any thing of the several Cere­monies relating to the Judges, and the Articles by which Plate Races and Matches are regulated, because besides that 'tis very easie to inform ones self of them at a Minutes warning; they are more or less, according to the different Customs of the place where you run. 30

When you keep runing Horses, which I would advise you to do only for Plates, and Matches of Sport and good Fellowship, and not for large Sums, if you do not breed them your self, be sure to buy no Horse that has not extraordinary good Blood in his Veins: For a Runing Horse costs a great deal of Mony to keep, and a good one eats no more than a bad one, nor requires more attendance. Some men to save Twenty or Thir­ty Guinea's in the Price of a young Horse, have 40 lost Hundreds by him afterwards.

A Horse that you have tried once or twice at a Twelve-stone Plate, you may be sure to make an extraordinary Hunter of; or if he be well turn'd, and dispos'd for it, a War-horse: In such a Case a Man has a great deal of Satisfaction, because he known what his Horse is, and what he can do.

Note, That the Posture, Manner of Riding, &c. is the same in a Match as in a Plate-Race, only 50 that there being but a single Course to be run, you must push for all at that one time; whereas when there are several Heats, there is more saving, and variety of play.

CHAP. XII.
Of the Pad.60

A Pad ought to be strong, light and nim­ble, which you will say are Qualities not easie to be found together in one Horse; I own it; and therefore am of Opinion that no Horse is harder to find than a true, right Pad, especially if we consider, that to deserve that Name, his Go­ings must be likewise true, as well as graceful and easie. If you are a Breeder, I refer you to my Directions Chap. VII. where I discourse about breeding Pads as well as other Horses: But if you must buy, take in short these following Di­rections, which may be some help to you in choosing your Pads, and indeed almost all other Horses.

The Marks of a good Horse.

THe Marks of Beauty and Goodness in a Horse are these; his Ears should be small, thin and sharp, carrying them well; or if they be long, but well set on, upright and moving, it is not amiss. His Face should be lean and bo­ny, his Forehead swelling outwards, and the Feather of his Face set pretty high, that is, above his Eyes, or at the top of them; and if he is mark'd with white (provided it is not too much) upon his Face, or the ship of his Nose, so much the better. His Eyes should be round, black and shining, standing out from his Head: His Cheek­bones or Chaps, should be lean and thin, with the space between them wide, and free from knots or kernels; and his Wind-pipe large. His Nostrils should be dry and wide, so that upon the least straining a fiery redness is seen in them. His Muzzle should be small, his Mouth deep, and his Lips should shut tite and well, the Upper being about an Inch longer than the Lower. The next thing to be observed is his Teeth, by which (now it falls in our way) I shall [...] you direction to know a Horses Age.

To know the Age of a Horse.

YOu must remember that a Horse, when he has all his Teeth, hath just Forty; that is, Four and twenty Grinders, Twelve on each side, Six above, and Six below, on the same side; then Twelve Gatherers, Six above and Six below, on the fore part of his Mouth, which makes Six and Thirty; and lastly four Tushes, one above and one below on each side, which makes up the Forty. The first year he has his Foals Teeth, which are only Grinders and Gatherers, without any Tushes; they are small and white. The se­cond year the four foremost Teeth will appear browner and bigger than the rest. The third year he changes the next to them, and leaves no Foals Teeth before, but Two upon each side above, and the same below. The fourth year he changes the next to them, and leaves but one upon each side above, and the same below. The fifth year his foremost Teeth are all chang­ed, his Tushes being compleat on each side, and the Teeth that came in the room of the last Foals Teeth which he cast, are hollow, having a little black Speck in the middle, which is called the Mark in a Horses Mouth, and so continues till the eighth year, or thereabouts. The sixth year he has new Tushes, about the bottom of which you may see a little Circle of new Flesh, and the Tushes will be white, small, and sharp. The seventh [Page 10] year all his Teeth are grown to perfection, and the Mark in his Mouth (as we call it) is very plain to be seen. The Eighth year all his Teeth are full and smooth, the Mark being scarce visi­ble, and his Tushes grow yellower. The Ninth year his foremost Teeth shew longer, yellower and fouler than before, and his Tushes grow blunt. I will go no farther, because I would not ad­vise you to meddle with old Horses. But to return to our business in hand.10

The Shape of a Fine Horse.

FRom his Head look down to the Breast, which should be broad and beautified with Feathers. His Fore-Thighs to the Knees should be firm and sinewy without any swelling, and his Knees should be close knit, carrying an equal proportion. From the Knees to the Pasterns his 20 Legs should be clean and nervous, and the In­side of his Knees should be free from any Seam, Scar or Scab. His Pasterns should be well knit, and not too long, and he should tread right upon them. His Hoofs should be black, smooth, tough and hollow, and rather a little long than round. For the Shape of his Neck and Crest, and the setting on of his Head, I refer you to Chap. VII. The Chine of his Back should be broad, eaven and strait; his Ribs round in com­pass 30 and bending outwards, and his Fillets strong and short. He should be Home-ribb'd, and his Body should be well let down. His But­tocks should be round, full and plump, lying in a level with the rest of his Body. His Gascoyns should be full and brawny, being well let down as far as the Middle-Joynt, which should be nothing but Skin, Bones, Veins and Sinews; and his Hind-Legs clean and sinewy. These are generally marks of Beauty and Goodness, and the 40 more a Horse has of them the better; for I never yet saw a Horse compleatly perfect.

To observe these things exactly, you should do well to have the Horse you intend to buy, stript naked and led out before you; and when you have viewed him all over, having some able and trusty Farrier with you to make en­quiry into those hidden Maladies, which might escape your own or anothers search, you have only to examine his Goings, which must be true 50 and nimble, with ease to himself as well as his Rider.

But the surest way of Buying is to be ac­quainted with good Breeders, and taking Young Horses that are but just Backt, to have them Man [...]g'd and ordered according to your own fancy.

If you have lived altogether in the Country, or have never learnt to Ride of a Master, nor indeed never design any such thing, as having 60 no inclinations to Military Affairs or Martial Exercises (as it is not necessary all Gentlemen should) however it is very commendable and Gentile to see you get up your Horse with a good Air, and to sit handsomly; though it be only upon the Road, or a Hunting, Hawking, or the like; and to hold your Reins like a Horsman, knowing which way to guide, and stop without Jobbing and spoiling his Mouth, and making such odious and ridiculous Postures that some are apt to do. To which end you may be pleased to take notice thereof, and to consider what has been said concerning the Art of Riding, Chap. IX. and endeavour to put so much of it in practice as you shall find sutable to your In­clinations, especially that which relates to Mounting, and the true Posture of a good Hors­man; and if you would have that Character, never Ride upon the Road in a Jocky-Cap or Snaffle-Bridle; but with a Bit and Pistols well adjusted and fitted to your Pad.

I speak this to such that are not at leisure, or unwilling to learn in an Academy; for though I think it absolutely necessary for those that are Martially inclined, and requisite for all the rest of the Nobility and Gentry, as it is a Manly and Gentile accomplishment to Ride well: Yet it is better to know something, than to be ignorant of all; and for those that will not learn of others, to get what they can of themselves.

If you are a compleat Horsman, you will take delight in having your Pads stop, and turn readily, and to make them be put a little upon the Haunch, which will render them in­finitely agreeable.

CHAP. XIII.
Of Horses for the Coach, Wagon, Burthen, &c.

I Need not say much concerning the Coach, Wagon, Carriage, Burthen, and the like, it being not quite so difficult to find Horses pro­per for those uses, as for what hath been said in the fore-going Chapters.

For your Coach in Town Dutch or Flanders Horses are best (for which see Chap. V.) in the choosing of which observe that they be well quartered and short Backt; that they have strait and sound Limbs; that they Trot well and nim­bly; that their Eyes be good, and that they carry good Bodies; not but that I would have you examine them at large, according to all the Rules of Beauty and Goodness: But because the contraries to what I here particularly name are the most frequent and usual faults in these kind of Horses.

In the Country, or for Travelling, our English Horses are the best, if well chosen; for their size the best is about Fifteen Hands and an half high, and they must be Squat and well Trust, with sound Legs and Feet, &c. In observing their Trot, take notice if they lift up their Feet nimbly and evenly, and keep their middle Joynts behind wide asunder, 'tis very good.

For Carriages, Wagons, Servants, and all sort of Drudgery, you have nothing to do, but to make choice of plain and strong Horses that are [Page 11] in health and vigour, and withal free from Ma­ladies, their business being nothing but Servile labour; only be sure that your Baggage Horses above all have short and strong Backs, and be of a pretty large size.

CHAP. XIV.10
Of Riders, Keepers, Grooms, &c.

THE Business of a Rider being to Back, Mouth and Manege young Horses, he ought to be very skilful and adroit, bold and firm on Horse-back, with a just and even hand, being exactly perfect in all the Lessons, Aids, and 20 the like, that are to be taught a Horse, either for the War, Pleasure, &c. He ought to suit to every Horse such a Bridle and Saddle as is fit­test for him. He should be a Man of Temper and Judgment, never beating a young Horse, but when he is forced to it, and this with dis­cretion, endeavouring if possible to win him by sweetness and good usage; and withal this, He should be sober and diligent, for without that he will not be able; and unless he is diligent, he 30 will be unwilling to perform his Duty with that exactness which is requisite in such an Employ­ment.

By Keepers, I mean such as have the keeping Runing Horses; and that you may the better know their business, I will give you the Method of a Runing Stable. You must have for every Runing Horse, a little Boy to Ride him his Airings, Water-Courses, and the like: And over all these a Keeper, who orders and overlooks the whole 40 business of Dyeting and Exercising; for which end he must understand all that which belongs to the keeping of a Runing Horse. See Chap. XIX.

A Groom should be sturdy, healthful and strong; His business is to understand the ordinary ways of Keeping all sorts of Horses; that is, for the War, Pleasure, Travel, and the like. And above all, he ought to be free from Drinking; for the best Groom in the World, when he is Drunk, is in 50 danger of spoiling his Horse by Heats, Colds, and their giddy brain [...]d Extravagancies.

In general; As for all sorts of Servants in and about your Stables, be sure that they under­stand their respective places, and deport them­selves well therein; for good Servants (well ordered) conduce very much to the preservation of your Horses, and have always a good Equi­pago.60

CHAP. XV.
Of Keeping, Dyeting and Order­ing the Runing Horse.

IN the keeping of Runing Horses, unless a Man has Experience and Practice, the best Rules imaginable are insufficient; but because it is im­possible to set up without a Fond, and build with­out a Foundation, I shall give you some Dire­ctions, leaving you still the liberty to vary or add according to your own Observation, as occasion requires.

There are Three States of Body in which a Horse may be.

1. Fat and Foul.

2. Lean and Poor.

3. In a moderate State between both.

Now you must be sure to proportion and order the Dyet and Exercise of your Horse sutable to the state and condition he is in. You must also (for the same end) have a special re­gard to the particular Nature and Constitution of every Horse: But your own Remarks (upon due Practice) and common Reason will direct you sufficiently in these Points. For is it not very reasonable to take more time to bring a Foul Horse to sharp Exercise, than one that is already in a pretty tolerable condition; and that a Horse of a spending nature ought not to have so violent Exercise, as one of a harder temperament? I will therefore pitch upon a Fat Horse, that being the difficultest of the Three, and examine how to bring him into such a good order, that he shall perform his Course to the best advantage; and by discoursing of this, you will know how to deal with the other two.

If therefore you match a Horse that is fat and foul, either by runing at Grass, or standing at Soil, by too high keeping, or by any other means of rest, for the first fifteen days at least, rise by day-break, and having put on his Bridle washt in Beer, and tyed to the Rack cleans the Stable from the Duug, and then dress him very well, that is to say, first Curry him all over from the Head to the Tail, from the top of his Shoulder to his Knee, and from the top of his Buttock to his hinder Gambril; then dust him all over with a Horse Tail, or a clean dusting-cloath, then curry, or rub him all over with the French-Brush, beginning at his forehead, Temples and Cheeks, so down his Neck, Shoulders and Fore-legs to his Hoofs, then along his Sides, and under his Belly, and lastly his Buttocks, and Hinder-legs; then rub him all over with your wet hand, not leav­ing as near as you can one loose Hair about him, nor one wet Hair, because you must keep rub­ing him until he is rub'd dry with your hands. Then with your wet hand cleang his Sheath, his Yard, his Stones and his Tuel, and indeed you must not leave any secret place uncleansed, as his Ears, Nostrils, Fore-Bowels, and between his hinder Thighs. This done, take a Hair-cloth and rub him all over, but especially his Face, [Page 12] Eyes, Checks, between his Chops, the Nape of his Neck, and down his Legs, Fetlocks, and about his Pasterns. Having done all this, rub him all over with a clean Woollen-cloth, beginning at his Head, and so to every part of his Body as before directed; then take a wet Main-comb to comb his Main and Tail; when you have thus drest him, put over him his Body-cloth, which must be thicker for the Winter Season than for the Summer, for which fine Cotton is most fit; then 10 put on his Saddle, girting the foremost Girt pret­ty strait, and the other a little slack, and wisp it on each side of the Horses Heart, that both the Girts may be of equal straitness; then put on a warm Breast-cloth, which may cover both his Shoulders.

When the Horse is thus drest, and made rea­dy, take a little Beer in your Mouth, and Squirt it in his, and so lead him out of the Stable and mount him, leaving some of the Helpers to cleang 20 the Stable, and shake up the Litter, for besure that your Horse stands upon a good store of fresh dry Litter both night and day, which Litter should be Wheat-straw, if possible, or for want use Oa [...]-straw, but Barly and Rye-straw are esteem­ed unwholsom, the one causing heart-burning, and the other scouring.

When you are thus mounted, walk forth your Horse a foot-pace (which is called Rakeing) for about two miles upon sound and smooth ground,30 and if you can, upon hilly places, where gallop him gently, but rack, or walk him down gently that he may cool as much as you heated him, and by this time the Sun will be risen, so that you may walk him to some River or clean Pond, and per­mit him to drink his fill; then Gallop and Exer­cise him moderately as before, and having walk­ed him a pretty space, offer him more Water; if he drink, then Gallop him again, but if he refuseth Gallop him to occasion thirst, and always exercise 40 him before and after drinking. And when he hath sufficiently drunk, bring him gently home with­out a wet Hair; when you are come to the Sta­ble Door alight, (his Litter being prepared for him) and by whistling, stretching the Horse upon the Straw, and raising the Straw up under him, see if you can cause him to Piss, which if at first he doth not, yet by accustoming him to it, he will soon be brought thereunto, for it is not only wholsom for him, but cleanly for the 50 keeping the Stable.

These things being performed bring him into his Stall, and first tye his Head up to the Rack in his Bridle, then with hard Wisps rub down his Fore-legs as hard as you can, then unloose his Breast-cloth, and rub his Head, Neck, and Breast very well with a dry Cloth, then take off his Saddle and Body-cloth, rubing his Body very well, especially his Back where the Saddle was, and so clothe him up with a Linen-sheet, over 60 which cast a good strong Housing-cloth, and over that his Woollen Body-cloth, which in the Winter may be lined with thin Cotton; then girt these Cloths on with his Sursingle, which stuff round, with reasonable big, and soft Wisps, which is more easie for him to lye down with, than with those small hard Wisps.

After he is thus Clothed up, pick his Feet, and stop them up with Cow-dung; then cast into his Rack a little bundle of Hay well dusted, and hard bound up, for him to tear out as he is bridled up, and having so stood about an hour and a half come to him, and first rub his Head, Face, and the Nape of his Neck, with a clean Rubber made of new rough Hempen-cloth, which is excellent for his Head, dissolving all gross and filthy hu­mours, then draw his Bridle, and with a clean Cloth make the Manger so clean as possible, ta­king away all the scattered Hay, and cast it into the Rack; then take about a Quart of sweet, dry, old, and clean Oats, the whitest, and hea­viest being the best, for those that are musty breed infirmities, the Moist causeth swelling in the Body, the New breeds Worms and pain in the Belly, and those half-drest deceive the sto­mach, and spoileth the Horse. The Black Oats are not so good as the White, because they make foul Dung, so that one can't so well know the State of his Body.

This Quart of Oats put into a Sieve that is somewhat less than a Riddle, and bigger than a Reeing-sieve, which will let the light Oats go through, but keep in the full plump ones: In this Sieve ree, dress, and toss them very well, that there is no dust or foul thing therein, and so give them your Horse, and if he eats them with a good Stomach, you may give him as much more so ordered; and so let him rest till about ele­ven of the Clock, and then visit him again, and having rub'd his Neck, Head and Face, give him about the same quantity of Oats so drest and ordered as aforesaid; then shutting up the light that he may be in darkness, leave him till about one of the Clock: For the darker you keep him in your absence, the better it will occasion him to feed, and to lye down and take his rest; and therefore it is customary to arm the Stalls where the Horses stand, round about, and over the Rack with strong Canvass, as well for darkness as for warmth.

About one of the Clock give him the like quan­tity of Oats drest as aforesaid, and after you have rub'd his Face, Head, the Nape of the Neck, and cleanged the Stable from the Dung, give him a little Knob of Hay, and so leave him till about four a Clock, if in the Summer, and three if in the Winter; then come again, cleang the Sta­ble, and Bridle him up, having wet the Snaffle with Beer, and tyed him up to the Rack, then take off his Clothes and dress him in all points as before directed for the Morning, then Clothe and Saddle him as aforesaid, and bring him forth, using what means you can to make him piss and dung at the Stable door upon the foul Litter; then mount and ride him forth as in the Morning, but not to the Hills, choosing plain grounds near some River, and so give him his Airing, Gal­loping him before and after his Water, then rake­ing him gently up and down. In your rakeing you must observe in all your passages (especially when you would have him empty himself) to let him smell upon all the old and new Dung you meet with, which will make him empty his Bo­dy, and repair his Stomach.

[Page 13] After you have watered him, and spent the Evening in Airing him (for nothing is more wholesom, or sooner consumeth foulness than early or late Airing) ride him home, and observe to do all that you did to him in the Morn­ing as well within doors as without, and so leave him on his Bridle for above an hour; then go to him, rub him well, draw his Bridle, cleang his Manger, put up his scattered Hay, give him a­bout a Quart of Oats well drest and sifted, and 10 so leave him till about Nine a Clock, then visit him again, first rubing down his Legs with hard Wisps, then with a clean Cloth rub his Face, Head, Neck, and foreparts, then turn up his Clths, rub his Buttocks, Fillets, and hinder parts, which done, put down his Clothes, give him another Quart of Oats, and put into his Rack a little bundle of Hay as before directed, then toss up his Litter to make his Bed soft, and so leave him till the next Morning, and then come to him early as 20 before directed, and do every thing as you did before. And thus keep him for the first Fortnight; in which by this double dayly exercise his Flesh will be so hard, and his foulness so consumed, that the next Fortnight (if you be a temperate Man) you may venture to give him gentle Heats.

As concerning his Heats observe these dire­ctions, First that two Heats in a week is enough for any Horse of what state of Body soever. Se­condly, that one Heat should be given upon that 03 day in the Week, on which he is to be run his Match, as for Example; If your Match is to be run upon a Munday, then your fittest heating days are Mondays, and Frydays, and the Monday, to be always the sharper Heat, because it is the day of the Match, and there is three days res­pite betwixt it and the other Heat: If the Match day be on a Tuesday, then the Heating days are Tuesdays and Saturdays: If on Wednesdays, then the Heating days are Wednesdays and Saturdays; and 40 if on Thursdays, then the Heating days are Thurs­days and Mundays, and so of the rest. Thirdly, give no Heat (except in case of extremity) in rai­ny or foul weather, but rather differ Hours and change Times, for it is unwholsom and dangerous; therefore in case of shours and uncertain weather be sure to provide for him a warm lined Hood with linen Ears, and the Nape of the Neck lined to keep out Rain, nothing being more dangerous than for cold wet to fall upon his Ears, the Nape 50 of his Neck, and his Fillets. Fourthly, give your Heats (provided the Weather be seasonable) as early in the Morning as possible, that is, by day-break.

As to your second Fortnights keeping, observe all things, as before directed for the first Fortnight, only before you put on his Bridle, give him a­bout a Quart of Oats clean sifted, which as soon as he has eaten, bridle him up, and dress him in all particulars as in the first Fortnight, also Clothe, 60 Saddle, Air, Water, and bring him home in all points as in the first Fortnight, only put no Hay in his Rack to tear out, but only draw with your hand as much fine sweet Hay well dusted as you can well gripe, and let him as he stands on the Bridle tear it out of your hand, which if he doth greedily, then give him another, and ano­ther, and so let him stand on the Bridle about an hour, then come to him, and after rubing, and other ceremonies performed as aforesaid, sift and dress about a Quart of Oats, and set them by; then take a Loaf of Bread that is three days or more old made after this manner.

Take three Pecks of clean Beans, and one of good Wheat, mix them together, and grind them to fine Meal, then sift it through a fine Seive, and knead it with a little Water, and a good quantity of Yest to make it light, and so let it lye for some space to make it light before you make it up into Loaves, which must be well baked.

At three days old you may give your Horse some of it, but not sooner, new Bread being dangerous, occasioning Surfeits; but if you are constrained to give it sooner, or that it is then damp or clammy, then cut it into thin Slices and lay it to dry, and so crumble it amongst his Oats.

But to return to our former discourse. This Bread of three days old chip very well, and cut into thin slices (as much as may countervail the quantity of Oats) very small, and mixt with the Oats, and so give them your Horse.

About Eleven a Clock visit your Horse, and ha­ving performed your By-ceremonies before treated of, give him the same quantity of Bread and Oats as you did in the Morning, and so let him rest till the Afternoon; and about one of the Clock, or after, if you intend to give him an Heat the next day, feed him with Bread and Oats, as you did in the Forenoon, and so con­sequently every Meal following for that day, ob­serving every thing as before directed you.

But if you intend the next day to give him an Heat, then only give him a Quart of good clean sweet Oats, and as soon as he has eaten them, put on his Bridle, and tye him up, not forgetting all the aforesaid Ceremonies; then Dress him, Clothe him, Saddle, Air and Water him as before directed; and when you bring him home, order him as before shewed, only give him no Hay; after he hath stood about an hour on the Bridle, give him another Quart of clean Oats, which when he hath eaten, put on his Head a sweet clean wash't Muzzle, and so let him rest till about Nine of the Clock at Night.

As concerning the use of the Muzzle, and which is the best, you must know that as they are most useful, being rightly made, so they are hurtful if falsly made: The true use of them is to keep your Horse from eating up his Litter, from gnawing upon Boards and Mud-walls, and to be short, from eating any thing but what he receives from your hand. These Muzzles are sometimes made of Leather, and stampt full of Holes, or else close, but they are not wholsome; for if it be alom'd Leather, the Alome is offen­sive, if liquor'd, the Grease and Ouze are as bad; besides, they are too close and too hot, occasioning oft-times sickness in your Horse, and to keep his Dung longer in his Body than otherwise he would do.

The best Summer Muzzle is the Net-muzzle [...] made of strong Packthread thick knit, with small Mashes at the bottom, and waxing wider and [Page 14] wider up to the middle of the Horses head, and bound about the top with strong Tape, having on the near side a Loop, and on the far side a long String of Tape to be fastned to the Horses head.

The best Winter Muzzle is made of strong double Canvas, with a round bottom, and a square Lettice Window of small Tape before his Nostrils, down to the bottom of the Muzzle; and this must also have a Loop and a String to fasten it to his Head as the other.10

At Nine of the Clock at Night visit your Horse again, and having performed your By-ceremonies as aforesaid, give him a quart of clean sifted Oats, and as soon as he hath eat them, put on his Muzzle, toss up his Litter, and leave him for that Night. The next Morning very early go to him, and if he is laid, do not disturb him, but im­ploy your time until he riseth, by sifting and cleaning a quart of Oats, which rub between your hands, and wash them in a little Ale or 20 strong Beer, but not too moist, and so give it him; as soon as he has eaten them, bridle him up, hang by his Muzzle, unclothe him, and dress him as before directed; then put on his Body-cloth, his Breast-cloth, and so Saddle him; then being ready to go forth, take his Bridle Rein, draw it over the top of the Rack, then raise up his Head; then take a new laid Egg wash't clean, which break in his Mouth, and cause him to swallow it; after which wash his Tongue and 30 Mouth with a little Beer, and so lead him forth, observing the former Directions to cause him to Piss or Dung; then mount him, and rake him gently to the Course; and every while make him to smell upon other Horses Dung, whereby to cause him to empty himself the better.

When you are come within about a Mile of the Starting Post, alight and take off his Body-cloth and Breast-cloth, girting on his Saddle again; and having sent away your Groom with those Clothes, and 40 the clean dry Rubbing-clothes, let him stay at the last end of the Race till you come; then rake him gently up to the Starting Post and beyond; make him smell to that Post, as also to the first Post, which is called the weighing Post, that he may thereby take notice of the beginning and end of his Course. And there start him round­ly at near a three quarter Speed, and according to his strength of Body, Ability, and chearfulness of Spirit, run him the whole Course through, but 50 be sure to do nothing in extremity, that is, a­bove his Strength or Wind, but when you find him a little yield, give him easy, so that all he doth may be with Pleasure to him; for this man­ner of Training will make him take delight in his Labour, and so increase it; the contrary will make his Exercise irksome to him.

During the time that you thus Course him, ob­serve upon what Ground he runs best, that is, upon the hilly, smooth, or rough Ground; and 60 according as you find his Nature, so order your Course.

Having thus coursed the Course strongly and swiftly, and after a little slightly Gallop him up and down the Field to rake his Wind, and chear his Spirits (your Groom being ready with your Clothes and other Necessaries) Ride to some warm place out of the Wind, as under some Tree or Hedge, where alight, and with a grasing or scra­ping Knife, which is commonly made of some broken Sword Blade or Sythe, or for want there­of of a thin piece of old hard oaken Wood, fashi­oned like a broad long Knife, with a sharp Edge, and using it with both your hands, scrape off all the swet from every part about him; and thus do until you find there is no more swet arise; and ever and anon move him up and down, and then with dry Clothes rub him very well all o­ver; then take off the Saddle, and having scra­ped and rub'd his Back, put on his Body-cloth and Breast-cloth, then his Saddle, well girted on, then Gallop him gently forth, and again a little space after rubbing his Head, Neck, and Body as you sit on his Back; then walk him about the Fields or Downs to cool him, and when you find that he dries apace, rake him gently homewards, sometimes Raking and sometimes Galloping, but do not bring him to the Stable until he is quite dry, and when so, then dismount, and indeavour to make him Piss and empty himself; then lead him into his Stall, and gently tye his Head up to the Rack with his Bridle; which done pre­sently, as having prepared it before, give him this following Scowring.

Take a pint of good Canary, an ounce of pure clear Rosin bruised to fine dust, and brew them together very well until incorporated together, then put thereto a pint of good Sallad Oyl, and brew them also well together; and lastly, take an ounce and an half of brown Sugar-candy, fine­ly beaten to powder, and mix them together; then mull all upon the Fire, and being luke-warm, and your Horse newly come in from his Heat, as before shewed you, draw his Head up to the Rack, and with a Drenching Horn give him this Scowring, which is strong, and taketh away all manner of molten Grease and foulness whatso­ever.

As soon as you have given him this Scowring, presently let his Legs be rub'd, and take off his Saddle and Clothes, and finding his Body dry, run slightly over it with your Curry-Comb, and af­ter with a Brush, then dust well, and lastly rub over his whole Body with dry Clothes, especially his Head, Nape of the Neck, and about his Heart; then Clothe him up warm as at other times, and whisp him round with great warm Whisps, and if you throw over him a little lose Blanket, it will not be amiss, especially if the Season is cold.

Your Horse must fast two hours after the ra­king the Scouring, all which time continue with him, and keep him stirring, using some noise, for nothing is worse than to sleep or rest at such a time, and hindereth the operation of the Medi­cine, whereas stiring enliveneth the Spirits, and stirs up those humors that should be removed. After he hath thus fasted upon his Bridle, take a handful of Wheat-ears (being your Pollard that is without rough Beards) but before you give it him, put your hands under his Clothes against his Heart, also upon his Fillets, Flanks, and on the neither part of his Thighs, and if you find any new swet to arise, or any coldness of swet, or if you find his Body to beat, or his breath to [Page 15] move fast, then do not give him any thing; for it is a sign that there is much foulness stirred up by the Medicine, and so maketh him sick; there­fore in such case only take off his Bridle, put on his Collar, and toss up his Litter that he may lye down, and suffer him to take his rest for a­bout Two hours, leaving the Stable dark and free from Noise. But if you find no such symptoms of Sickness, then proffer him the said Ears of Wheat by two or three at a time, and if he eats 10 the handful, give him another; then give him a little Bundle of Hay as before directed, and draw his Bridle, rubbing his Head well. About an hour after he hath had his Hay, sift him a quart of good Oats, to which put two or three hand­suls of spletted Beans, which must be very clean drest from the hulls, so that there may be nothing but the spleted Beans themselves; to these Oats and Beans break two or three good shives of Bread, clean chipt, which give him, and so leave 20 him for two or three hours. At Evening before you dress your Horse, give him the like quan­tity of Oats, Beans, and Bread, and when he has eaten them, bridle him up, and dress him as be­fore directed; then clothe him up, but neither saddle him, nor ride him forth for this Evening after his Heat (he being inwardly foul, and the Scowring yet working in his Body) he must not drink any Water. But after he hath stood about an hour and a half upon his Bridle, take three 30 pints of clean sifted Oats, and wash them in strong Ale or Beer, and so give it him, which will inwardly cool and refresh him, so well as if he had drank Water. Then having rested a lit­tle while, feed him well that Night at his feed­ing times with Oats and splet Beans, or Oats and Bread, or altogether, or each apart, as you find his Stomach best inclined unto; then put some Hay in his Rack before you leave him, and go to Bed.40

The next day very early first Feed, then Dress, Clothe; Saddle, and Air him abroad, giving him Water as hath been shewed before; then bring him home, and feed him with Oats, Beans, and Bread as aforesaid, but give him very little Hay, and keep your Heating days, and the preparation the day before as hath been shewed without any o­mission, or addition. Thus you shall spend the second Fortnight, in which your Horse having received four sound Heats, and as many Scowrings, 50 there is no doubt but his Body will be inwardly clean, then the third Fortnight order him accord­ing to the following Rules.

The third Fortnight make his Bread finer than before, after this manner; take two Pecks of clean Beans, and as many of fine Wheat, grind them on the black Stones, searce them through a fine Range, and knead it up with Yest to make it light, then work it up, and bake it as the former.

With this Bread, (having the Crust cut away,60 and being old) with clean sifted Oats, and clean splet Beans feed him this Fortnight, as you did the former Fortnight; also you must observe his Heating-days, and the day before his Heat, as in the former Fortnight, only with these Differences.

First give him not his Heats so violent as be­fore, but with a little more pleasure, and not overstrain him; next, do not after his Heats when he comes home, give him any more of the for­mer Scowring, but instead thereof, immediately upon the end of the Heat, after he is a little cooled and clothed up, and in the same place where you rub him, by drawing his Head up a­loft as you set in the Saddle, or raising it up o­therwise, give him a Ball somewhat bigger than a French Walnut with the Rind and all, of that Confection before mentioned, being the true manner of making the Cordial Balls.

But to return to our former Discourse: Having thus spent the three first Fortnight, the fourth and last Fortnight you must make the Bread much finer than either of the former; as thus: Take three Pecks of fine Wheat, and one Peck of clean Beans, grind them to Powder on the black Stones, and bolt them through the finest Bolter you can get; then knead it up with very sweet Ale-Yest, and new strong Ale, with the Whites of about Twenty Eggs: Do not put in any Water, but instead thereof you may put in a little new Milk; then work it up, knead­ing it well; then bake it, and order it according to your former Directions.

With this Bread (the Crust being cut clean a­way, and with Oats sunned, beaten and rub'd over with your hands, then new winnowed, sif­ted, and fine drest, and with the purest spleted Beans) feed your Horse at his ordinary feeding times, after such manner as you did the last Fort­night.

Keep his Heating days the first Week of this last Fortnight as you did in the former Fortnight, only forbearing one Heat the last Week, and not give him any Heat, at the least for five days be­fore his Match, but give him long and strong Airings to keep him in Wind; nor need you give him this Fortnight any Scowrings.

If in this Fortnight Morning and Evening, you burn in your Stable, upon a Chasing-dish of Coals, some good Frankincense, or Olibanum mixt with Storax and Benjamin, to perfume and sweeten the place, it is very good for him, and he will take great delight therein. And in this Fortnight, when you give him any wash't Meat, wash it not in Ale or Beer, but in the Whites of Eggs, or Muskadine which is less pursie. Also in this Fortnight give him no Hay but what he takes out of your Hand after his Heats, except he is a very bad Feeder, very tender, and a great Belly­loser.

The last week of this Fortnight, if he is a foul Feeder, use the Muzzle continually; but if he is a clean Feeder, and will touch no Litter, then three days before your Match it is convenient to use the Muzzle.

In the Morning before the Match, feed well both before and after Airing and Water, as at o­ther times before Noon; and after Noon lessen his Meat a little.

Before and after Evening Airing feed him as at Noon, and water as at other times; but be sure to come before Sun-set.

This day cool him, shoe him, and do all ex­traordinary things of Ornament about him, pro­vided there be nothing to give him offence, or to [Page 16] hinder his Feeding, or any other material or be­neficial Action: For sometimes it happens that when they have been shoed with light shoes, and other actions of Ornament done about them the Night before the Course, they have taken such notice thereof, that they have refused both to eat and to lye down; but such Horses are old, and long-experienced in this Exercise: For as to the nice and strait platting up of their Tails, although Ornamental, yet I do not much approve thereof,10 by reason it may give offence to the Horse, there­fore forbear those unnecessary Ornaments. And as to the necessary things to be done to him, rather do them the day before, because on the Morning of the Course he should find no trouble or vexa­tion.

On the Match Day come to him very early, take off his Muzzle, rub his Head well, and give him a pretty quantity of Oats washt in Mus­kadine, or in the Whites of Eggs; but if he re­fuseth 20 them, then give him fine drest Oats, dry and mixt with a little Wheat, or with your lightest Bread, and as to Beans give him none: Of any of these Foods give him but such a small quantity, as may keep life and soul together; then if he be a Horse that is an evil emptier, retaining his Meat long, walk him abroad, and in the places where he useth to Empty there entice him to Empty; which as soon as he hath done, bring him home, put on his Muzzle, and 30 let him rest until you have notice to make ready and lead forth: But if he be a free Emptier, then you need not stir him, suffering him to lye quiet.

When you have notice to prepare for leading him forth, then come to him, and having washt his Snaffle in a little Muskadine, take off his Muzzle and Bridle him up; but if you think him too Empty, you may give him three or four Mouthfuls of the washt Meat last men­tioned,40 and then Bridle him up and dress him. After you have pitcht your Saddle and Girts with Shoemakers-Wax, put it on his back, girting it as gently as may be, so as he may have a feeling, but no straitness; then lay a Sheet over the Saddle next his Skin, and over it his ordinary Cloths, Wisping them about with soft Wisps; then if you have a Counter-pane or Cloth of State for shew sake, fasten it above all. All these things being done and you are ready 50 to draw out, then take half a Pint of the best Muskadine, and give it him in a Horn, and so lead him away.

In all your Leadings upon the Course, of gentle and calm motions, suffering him to smell upon every Dung that thereby he may empty himself, and in special places of advantage, as where you shall find Rushes, long Grass, Heath, or the like, walk him and entice him to Piss; but if you find no such help, then in special 60 places upon the Course, and principally towards the latter end, and having used the same means before, break some of your Wisps under his Belly to cause him to Piss. And in your Leading, if any white or thick Froth or Foam arise about his Mouth, wipe it away with a clean Handker­chief, carrying a small Bottle of clear Water with you to wash his Mouth now and then with.

When you come to the place of Starting, be­fore you unclothe him, rub and chase his Legs with hard Wisps; then pick his Feet and wash his Mouth with Water; then unclothe him, Mount his Rider and Start fair, and so with Success unto him.

The Course being perform'd, you must order him, as after a sharp Heat; for which I refer you to my Directions about Heats.

CHAP. XVI.
Of Keeping any Horse for Plea­sure, Hunting, Travel, &c.

I Would have your Keeper of these Horses to rise early in the Morning by Day-break, or before, according to the Season of the Year, and to sift your Horse about three Pints of good dry old Oats, and put thereto one or two hand­fuls of spleted Beans with the Husks, and give it him. After he has eaten them, let him dress him according to the order of good Horsmanship; that is, First Curry with the Comb, then Dust, then rub with the Brush; then Dust and rub with your wet Hands, after that with a clean Woollen-cloth, next with a clean Linnen-cloth; then pick all obscure places, and lastly Comb down his Main and Tail. Having thus done, Saddle him and ride him forth to Water, warm­ing him very moderately both before and after Water, and so bring him home without Sweat. Then after you have rubbed him all over, Clothe him and let him stand on his Bridle above an hour; after which give him the former quantity of the said Provender, and when he hath eaten it, give him in his Rack a pretty Bundle of Hay, and so let him rest until after Dinner, and then give him the former quantity of the said Provender and so let him rest till the Evening; only give him more Hay, if occasion requires. At Evening Dress him well, according to the Directions for the Morning; then Ride him forth to Water, observing the same Method as in the Morning; and when you come home Dress and Clothe him up, as aforesaid, and let him stand on his Bridle as before; then give him the former quantity of Provender, letting him rest till about Nine of the Clock, at which time give him the former quantity of Provender, and a pretty good Bun­dle of Hay, and so leave him till the Morn­ing.

This Method observe concerning his ordinary Keeping at home where he hath Rest, and that you may dispose of Hours at your pleasure; but if you are on a Journey, or the like, so that you can't observe these Times, then divide the main and whole quantity of Meat into four parts, and by consequence into greater quantities, and give him them at the best conveniency, always ob­serving [Page 17] to give the least quantity before Travel, as a third part before taking Horse, and the two others after you come to Rest.

The reason of my dividing his Meals is, be­cause it is very advantagious for the Horse; for to give it him at twice fills the Stomach more, makes the Digestion worse and the Appetite weak; whereas to give little and often, makes the Stomach always craving, the Digestion al­ways ready, and the Appetite never wanting.10 I must confess it is a greater trouble, requiring more attendance; but who will be sparing of his Grooms pains for the benefit of a good Horse?

If you intend to give him an Heat, as to Hunt, Travel, Gallop, or the like, which were not amiss to do two or three times a Week; then observe all your former Observations, only the Night before give him little or no Hay. In the Morning early before his Heat, and before his 20 Dressing, give him three or four handfuls of clean sifted Oats, washt either in strong Ale or Beer; then Dress him, Saddle him, and give him his Heat. But if it be sudden and violent, then let it be when he hath very well emptied him­self.

After his Heat rub him very well, and bring him dry into the Stable; then Clothe him up warm, and let him stand on his Bridle about two Hours; then give him a little Bundle of Hay to 30 tear out upon his Bridle, and an hour after feed him, as hath been already shewed, only with the first Oats give him an handful or more of Hemp-seed well dusted and mixed.

At Night warm him a little Water and give it him luke-warm; then about an hour after give him his Provender, with a pretty good Bundle of Hay, and so let him rest till the next Morn­ing.

The next Morning do all things as in his ordi­nary 40 Keeping.

Let him stand on Litter both Night and Day; but change it often, and keep the Planks clean.

If you intend to Travel a Journey, in the Morning then give him no Hay, or but little the Night before: If you take your Journey in the Afternoon, then give no Hay, or but little in the Morning.

In your Journey ride moderately the first 50 hour or two, but after according to your occa­sions or fancy. Water before you come to your Inn, if possible; but if you can't, then give warm Water in the Inn after he is fully cooled.

Oil of Trotters is excellent, being applied very warm and well chafed in, for the keeping of his Sinews and Limbs nimble, as also to help lameness and stiffness.

Neither Wash your Horse, nor Walk him; for the first endangereth Foundring in the Body or 60 Feet, and breedeth all Surfeits, and the latter is the ground of all strong Colds, which turn to Glanders and Rottenness: But if necessity compel you to either, as foul Ways and long Stays, then rather wash his Legs with Pails of Water at the Stable-Door, than to wash him in a Pond or River. And for Walking, rather sit on his Back to keep his Spirits stirring, than to lead him in the hand.

This is sufficient Directions for clean and ordi­nary Keeping a Horse.

CHAP. XVII.
Of several Excellent Medicines for curing Maladies most frequent in Horses.

TO Treat at large of Medicines and Far­riery would take up a Volume it self; Markham, Snape, and others have done it al­ready; and all Gentlemen that keep good Horses have their particular Farriers, in the choosing of whom they ought to be very cautious. This Chapter gives you some particular Medicines and Directions for such Maladies and Mischances that very often happen, being such as have been Approved of by Persons of Quality, and very good Horsmen. But for as much as he is e­steemed a better Horsman, that can keep his Horse in good health (by preventing such like Maladies) than he that can cure them, I shall begin with some Observations relating thereunto. And first,

Of Sickness in General.

WHensoever you perceive your Horse to forsake his Meat, to Droop, or shew any Symptom of Sickness, if it be not great, forbear letting Blood, which is a great weakning of the Spirits; but if the Signs be great and dangerous, then let Blood immediately; and for three Mornings together (the Horse being Fasting) give him half an Ounce of a Powder called Diabexaple, brewed either in a Pint of fine Syrup of Sugar, or for want thereof the like quantity of Molosses; also a Pint of Dragon-Water, or Carduus-Water, or a Quart of sweet strong Alewort will do as well; This Drench give him in a Horn, and if he is of ability of Body, Ride him after it in some warm place, suffering him to Fast about two hours: At Noon give him a sweet Mash, Clothe him warm, and let him not drink cold Water.

This Diahexaple Powder being not commonly known, and by consequence not rightly pre­pared, I shall here give the Receipt to make it.

Take of the Grains of Ivory, Paradice and Myrrh, of the Roots Gentian, Enula Campana and Turmerick, of each a like quantity; then beat and searce them into a subtile Powder, and give him such a quantity thereof as before directed. This comforts and strengthens the inward Parts, helps the Lungs, resists putrefaction of Humors, opens Obstructions, and if taken in time, not only re­covers him, but prevents many Distempers.

Observations relating to Sickness.

IF you find in your Horse a shortness of Breath, loathing of his Meat, an heaviness of Coun­tenance, dull Eyes, staring Hair, a rotten or dry Cough, an extream Loosness, or costiveness, yel­lowness of the Eyes and Skin, no casting his Loat, lean and hide-bound, to have a staggering Pace, a Frantick Behaviour, extraordinary lying down,10 or beating himself, or a faint or cold Sweat, all these are apparent signs of Sickness.

Observations from the Dung.

YOU ought to observe his Dung, which is a certain Rule to know the condition of his Inward Parts; yet before he passeth his Judg­ment, he ought to consider what Feeding he hath had, which is a great matter. For example, if 20 the Dung be of a pale and whitish yellow Com­plexion, and clear, hanging together without se­paration, more than as the weight breaks it in the falling, being neither too Thick nor too Thin, these are Signs of his being clean, well fed, and free from Maladies; if it be well coloured, yet fall from him in round knots, then' its a Sign of soul feeding, and he hath either too much Hay, and too little Corn, or Oats, too much Litter. If his Dung be redish and hard, then he hath had 30 too Strong Heats, and Costiveness will follow; if it be pale and loose, it denotes inward coldness of Body, or too much moist Feeding; if it be in round Pellets, and blackish, or brown, it shews inward heat in the Body; if it be Greasy, it shews foulness, and of that Grease is molten, but can't come away; if he voids Grease in Gross Substance with his Dung, if the Grease be white and clear, then it comes away kindly, and there is no danger, but if it be yellow and putrified, then the Grease 40 hath lain long in the Body, and Sickness will fol­low if not prevented.

Concerning Feeding.

OBserve that if there be any Drink, or Meat that is good for the Horse, and if he refuse to take it, do not force him to it, but use gentle Means, tempting him when he is most Thirsty, or Hungry; also mix the Drink, or Meat he lov­eth 50 best, with that which he loveth worst, till both be made Familiar unto him.

Concerning the State of his Body.

YOU must observe that the Strongest State of Body, which is the Highest of Flesh, provided it is good, hard and without inward foulness is the best; yet you must take notice that his Shape and Fee [...]ing are to be considered: As 60 to his Shape of Body, some that be round, plump, and close knit will appear fat, when really they are lean and in Poverty; and others that are Raw-boned, Slender, and loose knit together, will ap­pear Lean, Deformed and Poor, when they are Fat, Foul, and full of Gross Humours: So like­wise as to their Feeding, some will Feed outward­ly carrying a thick Rib, when inwardly they are Clean, and without all manner of Foulness; and there be others (as the latter) that appear clean to the Eye, shewing nothing but Skin and Bone, when they are full of inward Fatness; In this Case there are two helps, the one inward, and the other outward: The Inward help is only sharp Exercise which dissolves and Melts the Foulness, and strong Scourings, which will bring it away: The outward Help is Handling and Feeling his Body, especially his Ribs towards his Flank, and if his Flesh gene­rally handle loose and soft, your Fingers sinking or pitting in, 'tis a Sign of his Foulness; but if his Flesh be hard and firm, only upon his hindmost Rib it handles soft and Downy, 'tis a Sign there is Grease, and Foul Matter within, which must be removed, let him appear never so lean. If he be Fat and Thick, and as it were closed up be­tween the Chaps, or if his Jaws handle full and Fleshy, 'tis a Sign of much Foulness, both in the Head and Body; but if he handle Thin, Clean, and only with some Lumps, or small Kirnels within his Chaps, in such case it is a Sign only of some cold newly taken.

Concerning his Hair.

YOU must well observe your Horses Hair in General, but especially his Neck, and those parts that are uncovered; for if they be sleek, smooth, and close, then he is in good Case, but if his Hair be rough and stareing, then he is in­wardly cold at the Heart, wants Cloths and warm keeping, or else there is some Sickness creeping upon him.

Concerning Lameness, or Stiffness.

TAke notice that if your Horse be subject to Lameness, or Stiffness of Joynts or Sinews, Subbating or tenderness of Feet, first give him his Heats upon soft and smooth Ground, forbear­ing hard and Stony High-ways or the like.

Observations from the Vrine.

ALthough it is the General Opinion that the V­rine is a deceiver, yet something may be discovered thereby, viz. If the Vrine be of an High and Ruddy colour like Blood, then he hath been Over-ridden, or Ridden too early after Win­ter-grass; if the Vrine carry a white cream on the top, it shews a weak Back, and a Consumption of Seed; if it be of a pale yellowish colour, ra­ther thick than thin, and of a strong smell, it is an healthful, sound and good Vrine; if it be of an high Complexion, and clear like old March­beer, his Body is inflamed, and he hath taken some Surfeit; A green Vrine shews a Consumpti­on of the Body; Vrine with Bloody streaks, de­notes an Vlcer in the Kidneys, and a black thick cloudy Vrine shews Death.

Concerning the Privy Parts.

IF your Horses Stones hang down, side or long from his Body, he is out of Heart or Lust, [Page 19] and is either sick of Grease, or other foul Humours; but if they be close couched up, then he is in good plight and health.

Having given you these Observations concer­ning the State and Condition of your Horse, our next business shall be to proceed to Diseases, and their Cures.

Receipts of Julips, Glisters, and Potions 10 for cooling a Horse, Over-heated by violent Exercise, approved of by the late Duke of New-Castle.
For a Cold.

TAke half a Pound of Honey, with as much Treakle mixt together, then take a Pound of Cumminseed, an Ounce of Bay-berries, and an 20 Ounce of Annyseeds all beaten to powder, which mix together, and put so much thereof into the Honey and Treakle, as will make it thick like a Hasty-puddin: This give your Horse both before and after his Riding.

To Comfort a Horse Over-ridden.

TAke a Pint of new Milk,, and put therein the Yolks of three new-laid Eggs well beaten,30 three peniworth of Saffron, and two or three Spoon­fulls of Sallet-Oyl, let them be luke-warm, and given to him in a Drenching-horn.

Honey is a very soveraign thing for the Lungs, for a Cold, and to open all obstructions; and if you put a good Spoonful thereof in his Oats for some time together, it will work notable effects, and recover a very pursey Horse.

Horses of great Exercise, or such as are over­heated must be often let Blood, sometimes three 40 or four times in a few days, until you find good Blood to come.

To let a Horse Blood in the Mouth, and then to rub it with Salt, and cause him to drink his Blood, is an excellent thing; but you must purge him well, that his Grease may come away, for Horses of great Exercise would else be always foundred in the Body, and then they will never thrive, until that Melted Grease be brought a­way.50

The best Purge is an Ounce of Alloessicatrina lap't up in fresh Butter, and made into Pills, which give him after he has rested a while. Then give him this following Julip.

Take Mell Rosarum, Conserve of Damask Ro­ses, and Burrage, with Syrup of Violets, of each four Ounces, Burrage, Endive, Suckory, Bugloss, and Plantain-Water of each about a Pint and a half, which said Water and Conserves use thus. Put the Conserves into a Mortar, and beat them 60 together; then mix them well together with the Waters, and give it your Horse in a Drenching-horn cold, and if you add Syrup of Lemmons it is very good; of this Drink give him twice or thrice a week for about a Month, and let him rest afterwards, and it will be effectual.

All the time of this great Heat, feed him with Wheat-bran amongst his Oats wash't in strong Beer, or Ale if he likes it; for Bran is very good to get out his Belly, and to moisten him, because it dries up all superfluous humours that heat him. Likewise in his Water, when he drinks put some of the Bran, which is very good to cool and moi­sten him; and to loosen his skin if he be Hide­bound, which Heats do occasion.

Lettuces, Succory Roots, and Endive Roots, are very good to cool him, being boyled in the Wa­ter he drinks: And during the time of his Cure, let him have no violent Exercise, only gentle walking.

To refresh a Horse, give him Carots with his Oats, and wash his Oats in small Beer, which is ve­ry good.

A cooling Julip in a Fever.

TAke Barley-water a Quart, two Ounces of Syrup of Violets, and an Ounce of Syrup of Lemons, mix these together, and give him to quench his thirst.

If he is loose of Body in his Fever, to bind him take one Ounce of Ivory, with as much Harts­horn, rasp them, and put them in three Quarts of Water, which must boyl till about half is con­sumed, then strain it through a Cloath; and to this Liquor put four Ounces of the Juice of Bar­beries, and one Ounce and a half of Syrup of Pomegranates, and give it him in a Drenching-horn cold.

A cooling Potion.

TAke a Quart of Whey, four or five Ounces of Syrup of Violets, the like quantity of Cassia, with a little Manna; and this will both cool and purge him gently. This given in a Gl [...]ster is very cooling to the Bowels.

All these cooling things are very good for sur­feited and over-heated Horses: But first give the Purge of Aloes to bring away the Grease.

For the Bots and all manner of Worms.

TAke a Quart of new Milk, and as much clarified Honey as will make it very sweet; give it him in a Horn luke-warm early in the Morning, having fasted all Night before; then bridle him up, and let him stand tied to the emp­ty Rack for about two hours Then take half a Pint of White-wine, and dissolve into it a good Spoonful of Black-soap, and give it him, causing him to fast about two hours after; and this will cause him to void the Worms in great abundance. Or take Salt and Water and give it him in a Horn.

For a Loosness.

TAke a Quart of Red-wine, set it on the fire, put in it one Ounce and a half of Boleal­mony made in fine Powder, and two Ounces and a half of Conserve of Sloes, then stir and mix them well together; then take it off the fire, and put thereto one or two Spoonfuls of the Powder of Cinamon; mix these together, and give him to [Page 20] drink. Let him fast two Hours after, and let him eat no wash't Meat: Hay is wholsome, so is Bread and Oats, so as they be well mixt with Wheat or Beans, but not otherwise.

An excellent Scowring when others will do no good.

TAke a quarter of a Pound of sweet Butter, half as much Castle-soap, beat them well to­gether; 10 then put thereto two Spoonfuls of Hemp­seed bruised, of Anniseeds bruised a handful, one Ounce of Sugar-candy, half a spoonful of Rosin finely bruised; work all these into a Paste, and give it him made up in Pills after his Heat, or when you have warmed him, and stirred up the Grease and Foulness within him.

For the Spleen.20

MAke a Plaister of Oxicroceum, spread it upon Sheeps Leather, which lay on, suffering it to lye until it come off it self.

A Glister to Expel Wind.

TAke Fennel Seeds and Anniseeds of each two Spoonfuls, bruise them, then put there­to half a handful of Pellitory of the Wall, Camo­mile, Rosemary flowers, and Penny-royal. 30

For the Wind-Collick.

BOyl a spoonful of Cummin seeds with a few Camomile flowers in Posset drink, and give it him to drink; which is good to expel the Wind.

For a Horse that pisseth Blood.

TAke a spoonful of Taragon steep it in White­wine, 40 and as much Poppy seeds beaten as will lye upon a shilling, give this in White-wine, which will effect the Cure.

For a Cough.

TAke the Root of Gentian, slice, dry, and beat it to Powder, of which give him fa­sting as much in half a Pint of his own Water, as will lye upon a shilling. This must be given 50 him every third day, until you see his Cough or Heaving to be removed; and all the time of his Cure let him stand in the Stable.

To cause a Horse to piss, that has the Wind-Collick.

TAke a quarter of a Pound of Castle-soap small, to which put two Ounces of Dial­th [...]a, 60 beat them well together in a Mortar, make them up into pretty big Balls, and so keep them for use, for they will continue good a year. Take one of the Balls, crumble it into a Pint and a half of strong Beer scalding hot, to dissolve the Ball, then let it stand till it is luke-warm, and so give it him in a Horn, and let him fast about an hour; this will empty him of all his Piss.

To make a Horse Stale or Piss.

TAke the quantity of a Walnut of Castle-soap, boyl it a little in a Pint of strong Beer, and give it him in a Horn luke-warm, and it will cause him to Piss.

To cause a Horse to Vomit.

TAke two large Roots of Polipodium of the Oak, wash and scrape them very clean, and tye it to his Snaffle or Bit, then let it be steeped in Oyl of Spike a whole Night, and in the Morn­ing fasting put on his Bridle with the Roots tied to the Bit, and ride him softly for about an hour, with it in his Mouth, and if he be troubled with any Flegmatick, or Rheumatick humours, or with any cold or filthy Matter that clogs or anoys his Stomach, it will cause him to cast it forth at his Mouth or Nose: It will also cause him to Sneeze and cough much, purging forth filth and slimy Mat­ter, so that it will soon cleanse his Body, and purifie his Blood. This you may give to a Horse newly taken from Grass, or to one that has taken a Cold, or is foggy and pursie; this being done, give him White-wine and Honey, as also a Cordial.

A Purge.

TAke a Quart of strong Ale-wort, a quarter of a Pint of Honey, two Ounces of London Treacle, mix and brew them all together, and give it him luke-warm, then keep him upon the Bit about Six hours warm clothed and littered; then give him a sweet Mash, and White-water, Rack him with sweet Wheat-straw, Oats and Bran; this both purgeth and comforteth: And two or three days after give him this following Drink.

Another Purge.

TAke a Pint of White-wine, put in it one Ounce of Sena to sleep all Night, in the Morning early strain it, and put therein one Ounce of Powder of Aloes, half an Ounce of Agarick, and a Spoonful of Liquorish Powder; mix these well together, and give it him luke-warm in a Horn, then ride him gently about a quarter of an hour after it, and so set him up warm, well clothed and littered; let no Air come to him, nor suffer him to eat or drink for about six hours: At Night give him a sweet Mash, and let his Meat be sweet Wheat-straw, Oats and Bran: The next Day let him Blood, and prick him in the third Furrow of his Mouth; and if his Blood be bad, take about two Quarts from him: But if good about a Quart; keep him warm, and give him sweet Mashes or White-water, and put into his Drink either the Powder of Brimstone or Elecam­pane, Fenugreek or Turmerick, or one or more together, which being well mixt, put thereof into his Drink a Spoonful at a time. This is very good to cool and purifie the Blood, to purge Cho­ler and other peccant Humours. This Purge is not only good for Horses newly taken from Grass, but for those that are sick or surfeited.

Glisters.

A Glister is a very good Preparative to a Purging Drink, cleansing the Guts, and refresheth the Vital Parts; so that before he give a Drink, whether Purging or otherwise, if the Horse be not soluble in Body, that after Blood-letting, the next day he give a Glister.

A Dec [...]ction is a Broth made of divers Herbs, 10 as Mall [...]ws, Marsh-Mallows, Camomile, Pellitory, and sometimes white Lilly Roots, which boyl in Water till the third part is consumed. Sometimes instead of Herbs and Water, fat Bees Broth, Milk or Whey will serve.

The quantity of Broth, Milk or Whey, is ac­cording to the age, strength, and bigness of the Horse; for if a strong, large, fat and lustly Horse, three Pints is usual, otherwise a Quart is suffici­ent: It is usual to put in half a Pint of Oyl, two 20 or three Drams of Salt, and sometimes Verjuce, or Honey, as occasion requires.

The usual Druggs are Sena, Cassia, Anniseeds, Agarick, also the Oyls of Camomile, Violets, and [...]ill, S [...]gar-Candy and such like. As to the quan­tity of Druggs, three ounces in a Glister is the most used, often less; and put in not above four ounces of Butter, and when you give it, let it be lukewarm.

Your Horse should be empty when you give it,03 and before you give it, Rake him, let him keep it about Half an Hour, holding his Tail close to his Fundament all the while.

The length of the Glister-pipe should be about a Foot long in the Shank, and put it home, and draw out the Pipe by Degrees.

For a Vein that swells upon letting Blood.

TAke black Pitch, white Pitch and R [...]sin, of 40 each a like quantity, boil them together, and lay it on hot, with a flat stick; and then flock it, and this doing, once in four or five days will take down the Swelling; he must be housed, and kept with dry meat the time of his Cure; you may anoint it with Oyl of Populeen, or with Soap and Brandy.

A Horse Burnt by a Mare.50

THis is known by the Mattering of his Yard within; for Cure take a Pint of White-wine, in which Boil a Quarter of a Pound of Roch-Allom, and when it is cool, Squirt it with a Syring as far into his Yard as you can; and it will effect the Cure.

The Staggers.

THis Disease proceeds from corrupt Blood, or 60 Gross ill Humours that oppress the Brain, from whence proceeds a vaporous Spirit, dissolved by a weak heat, which afflicts the whole Head. For Cure, first take a pretty long strait Stick well smooth'd about the bigness of a Tobacco-pipe, and at one end cut a Notch, this Stick put up to the top of his Head, jobbing it a little hard, and turn the Stick, which will occasion him to Bleed free­ly; then give him this following Drink, Take an Ounce of Anniseeds, and as much Turme [...]ick beat­en small, half a Quarter of a Pint of Aquavitae, a Pint and a half of Mild Beer, a Pint of Verjuce, or for want thereof a quarter of a Pint of White-wine-vinegar, and put it to the Beer, and the rest of the Ingredients, which make luke-warm, and give it him in the Morning fasting; as soon as he hath took it, take a handful of Herb-grace bea­ten small in a Mortar, a penny worth of Aqua­vitae, and put half the Aquavitae into one Ear, holding it upright in the hollow of your hand, and put half the Herb-grace in after it; then put in Wool or Tow, and tye up the Ear with a Gar­ter, and the like do to the other [...]ar, and tye them both up together; after Twenty four Hours untye his Ears, and take out the Wool, and Herb-grace; the next Day in the Morning let him Blood on both sides of his Neck, and save about a Pint of the Blood, and put thereto a handful of Salt, stir it well together, and give it him fasting: four or five Hours after give him sweet H [...]y, and at Night, warm Water and Bran: After you have given him the first drink, tye up one of his Fore­legs, and strew good store of Litter under him, and so let him take his rest, and he will either recover in a Day or Two, or Dye; the Vinegar will make him piss, and the Aquavitae cause him to sleep: If he comes not to his Stomach, then give him Honey, and White-wine, and a Cordial; when you let him Blood in the Head with your Cornet-Horn, let him Blood in the third Furrow of his Mouth, and let him bleed well; also let him Blood in the Gristle of his Nose, with a long Bodkin, or Shomakers Awl.

For a Broken-winded Horse.

TAke Boars Dung, dry it to Powder, put a Spoonful of it into a Quart of Milk newly taken from the Cow, or else made luke warm, and give it him: If you see that this quantity will not make him sick the first time you give it him, then give him two Spoonfuls more of the Powder, and this in four or five times taking will Cure him. This drink must be given every third day. A Spoonful of the Powder of a H [...]dg­hog being given, doth much add to the Cure.

To stop Bleeding.

LEt him Blood in both the Plate-veins, then wind a Thum-band of wet Hay about his Neck, so long to come from his Ears to his Breast, and so keep it wet until you find the Blood to Stanch.

Or take Bettony, and stamp it in a Mortar with Salt, put it into his Nose, or apply it to the Wound, and it will stanch it.

For a Shoulder-strain.

FIrst tye up his sound Leg with a Garter or List, then walk or drive him on his other three Legs, that he may lay the weight of his [Page 22] Body upon the lame Leg, and so keep him un­til he begin to Sweat at the Cods and Ears with pain. The reason of this is to see the Plait-Vein the plainer; then let down the lame Leg and the Vein will appear plainer; but if it doth not yet appear visible enough, then heat a little Water, and bathe the place grieved therewith, which will cause it to appear bigger; then let him Blood, and when you see the Blood is come into the Plait-Vein, and that the Vein is plain 10 enough to see and feel, tye up his lame Leg a­gain, and bleed him there on that side the bot­tom of his Chest his lame Leg is on. Let him bleed about a Quart or two, and the greater the Lameness is, the more let him Bleed; after he has bled about a Quart on the ground; put into a Bowl a good handful of Salt, and let him bleed about another Quart, keeping the Blood and Salt always stirring to prevent clod­ing; then stop the said Plait-Vein with a piece of 20 Lead to hinder more bleeding. Then having in a readiness about an Ounce and an half of Oyl of Turpentine, and as much Strong Beer; put them into a Glass-Vial, shake them well together, bathe it well in with your hand all about his Shoulder, his Breast, and down to his Knee; then take the Blood and Salt, and bathe that as the former; then set him up to his Meat, and with a Garter or List tye both his Fore-legs together as close as you can; the next day untye them, take 30 him out and walk him, and if you find he can go pretty well, ride him gently about a Mile, and so set him up again, tying his Fore-Feet to­gether, as before directed; but if he goes not well the first day, do but walk him the second day; and the third day after his first dressing, do not only tye his Legs, but flat a Stick on both sides, like a Wedge, about the bigness of a Six-pence; this drive between the Toes of his Shoes and the Toe of his Foot fast, so that it may not 40 come out; and always whilst he stands still in the Stable tye his Legs close, and peg him with a Wedge; and when you take him out to walk or ride, untye his Legs and take out the Wedge. Do this every Night and Day until he is cured, which will be in a few days, if it be newly taken. To let Blood once, and to Anoint it once with Oyl of Turpentine and Beer, and once with the Blood and Salt, with the help of tying his Legs and wedging them, as aforesaid, is suffici­ent.50

Hogs-Grease is very good for a Strain.

For a Sinew-sprung Horse.

TAke a Pint of Linseed Oyl, boyl it, then put in three pennyworth of Aquavitae, stir them together and anoint his Legs therewith.

For a Back Sinew-Strain, or any Grief,60 Pain, Straitness, Shrinking, or Numness of Sinews or Joynts.

TAke a fat Sucking Mastive Whelp, Flay it and bowel it; then stop its Body full of black Snails and gray Snails, Roast it at a rea­sonable good Fire, and when it begins to warm bast it with six Ounces of Oyl o [...] Spike made yellow with Saffron, and the like quantity of the Oyl of Wax. The Dripping and Moisture that falls from it, save, and keep in a Gally-Pot, with which anoint the grieved place, working it in very hot, holding a hot Bar of Iron before it; And thus do every Morning and Evening until it is cured.

For Grease fallen into the Legs, and the Scratches.

TAke of Nerve-Oyl, Train-Oyl, and Oyl of Bays, of each half a Pint, with the big­ness of an Egg of Alom, boil these well together; then having cleansed the Sores and opened the Pultis, if there be any, with Salve anoint the place grieved.

Also for the Scratches; Take Verdigrease and Burnt Alom mixt together, and so apply it, keep­ing him dry.

A Purgation for a Horse that is si [...]k of his Grease, or any Costiveness.

TAke a Pint of good old Whitewine, set it on the Fire and dissolve it in a lump of Castle-Soap as big as a large Pigeons-Egg, then strain them well together on the Fire; then take it off, and put into it two good handfuls of Hempseed finely beaten, with an Ounce and an half of good Sugar-Candy beaten to fine pow­der, mix all these well together; then having warmed the Horse to stir up the Grease and other foul Humors, give him this to drink, and walk him for a little while after it to make the Potion work; then set him up warm, and after a little stirring him in the Stable, if he grows sickish let him lye down; then after two or three hours fasting give him a sweet Mash, and so feed him as at other times.

For a Spavin, Splint, Curb, or Ring-bone.

FIrst, Clip away the Hair all about the Ex­cretion, next take a piece of Alom'd Lea­ther just as big as the place where the Hair is cut away; then spread the said Leather round the edge with a little Shoemakers-Wax; then take the Herb Sparagus (which hath the virtue to raise Blisters) bruise it in a Mortar, and lay it on the Leather in the middle where the Wax is not, which ought to be the bigness of the Knot or Excretion, and bind it fast thereon, and so let it lye (if in the Spring or Summer, when the Sparagus is in its virtue) two or three hours; but if in the Winter when it has not that virtue, then add to it a drop or two of Origanum, and let it lye on a day, and be sure tye up the Horses Head for about two hours, lest he bites it away. When you have taken off the Plaister, anoint the place with Train-Oyl luke-warm, and you shall find no Knot.

To make the Hoofs grow quickly, and to be tough and strong.

TAke seven Ounces of Juice of Garlick, two Pound of old Hogs-grease, and one handful of Asses or Cows-Dung, mix them and boyl them all well together, and with this both stop his feet and anoint the Crownets of his hoofs.10

For any Founder, Surbait, or the like in the Feet.

FIrst, Pare thin, open his Heels wide, and take a good quantity of the Blood from the Toes, then tack on a Shoe somewhat hollow; next take Frankinsence, and rouling it in a little fine Cotton Wool or Bombast, with an hot Iron melt it into the Foot betwixt the Shoe and the Toe, 20 untill the Orifice where the Blood was taken away is filled up; Then take half a Pound of Hogs-grease, melt it on the Fire, and mix it with Wheat-Bran to make it thick like a Pultis; then stop up his Foot therewith as hot as he can en­dure it, covering it with a p [...]ece of an old Shoe, and splint it up, causing him to stand still for three or four days; and if occasion requires, renew it till the Cure is perfected.30

A general Salve for any Sore swelling.

TAke Turpentine, Black Soap, Hogs-Grease and Pitch, of each a little quantity; mix and boyl them well together, and apply it warm to the Grief.

The Farcy.

TAke a handful of Rice and ten Cloves of 40 Garlick, beat them together; then take a pennyworth of Aquavitae, and strain them through a Cloth; then take a little Black-Wool to drink up the Moisture, and put into each Ear half the Wool, and sew up the Ears together; then cut his Forehead and put into the Hole the inner Rind of an Elder-stick about an Inch long, and keep him in the House that no Wet fall into his Ears the first day and night.50

For any Farcy, Mang, Scab or Leprosie.

LET Blood, then take a Quart of Wine or Vinegar, put therein a quarter of a Pound of good Tobacco; then set it on an Ember-fire to simper, and not boyl, for a whole Night; then strain it, and with this Water wash the infected place, as often as occasion requires, until it is cured.60

To help a Horse that Galls between the Legs, through Heat or ill Dressing.

TAke a raw Egg, crush it between his Legs, rubbing the galled place very well there­with after the Sores are made dry.

For a Canker in a Horses Mouth.

TAke half a Pint of the best White-Wine Vinegar, half a Pound of Roach Allom, and a handful of Sage; boyl these together, and therewith wash his Mouth and Tongue.

For a Horse that has got an Over-reach, or Tread of the Heel.

FIrst, Search it well to the bottom, take out all the Gravel and wash it with Piss; then take a good handful of Nettles and a good handful of Salt, put them in a Cloth and bind them to the Sore; this do two or three Morn­ings together, then set on the Shoe with a Lea­ther under it; which done, pour in some Hogs-Grease scalding hot, then some Rozia also scald­ing hot; and then after that put in some Wheat-Bran.

To draw out a Nail or Thorn in any place.

TAke House-Snails and seeth them in Butter, and apply it for use.

For a Stub, or other hurt in or about the Foot.

TAke Bees-Wax, Pitch, Hogs-Grease, and Tur­pentine, boyl them together in an Earthen Pipkin; but put in the Turpentine a little before you take it off the Fire, stirring it well together; then make the Wound clean and pour it in scalding hot; then dip Tow in it, and stuff the Sore place full of it, and it will heal in a short time.

To kill Lice.

TAke the Juice of Beets and Staveacre beaten together, and therewith anoint his Body all over, and it will kill them.

Also to anoint him with Hogs-Grease under the Mane, and upon the Ridge-bone of the Back, will destroy them.

For a Prick in the Foot.

FIrst, Take off the Shoe, and pare his Hoof to find out the bottom of the Wound; then take Turpentine, fresh Butter, and a little black Pitch boyled together, and pour it into the Wound scalding hot; then dip some Tow in the same, and stuff it well between the Shoe and the Foot, splintering and binding it about with Sticks and Leather to keep it on; but if it be a long Nail that struck into his Foot on the Road in a Journey; then pluck out the Nail, heat it red hot, and put it into the Hole as far as it went in; and having thus seared it with the Nail, to keep it from festring, melt fresh Butter and Turpentine with a little black-Pitch, and pour into the Hole as aforesaid; then clap on the Shoe, and stuff the Foot with Tow, as before directed.

A green Oyntment to heal a Wound.

TAke Water-betony, Comfry, Red Sage, Je­rusalem Sage, Mugwert, Rue, Southern­wood, and Rosemary, of each a handful, Boil them in a Pint of May-Butter, with as much Mut­ton-Suet, and when it hath Boiled a while, take it off the Fire, Strain it through a Cloath, and so put it into a Pot for your use. But before you 10 lay on the Oyntment, wash the Wound with this following Water.

Take Half a Pound of Bole-Armoniack, a Quar­ter of a pound of White Copperas, and two Oun­ces of R [...]ch-Allom, beat the Copperas and Allom, and put them into a Pipkin to melt on the Fire; when it is cold, put it with the Bole-Armoniack in­to a Mortar, and beat them together to a Pow­der; then take two Quarts of Spring Water, set it over the Fire close covered till it be Scalding 20 hot, then put it into a clean Earthen Pitcher, to which put two Spoonfuls of the said Powder, and stir it well together before you let it settle; then when it hath stood two or three days setling, take off the uppermost froth, and gently pour out the Water into another Pitcher clean from the Dregs. And so it is fit for use, always useing it as warm as can be endured; and when you wash the Wound, let the Cloth lye on a while, then wet a double Cloth in the said Water, and lay it 30 on the Sore, renewing it two or three times a day, and after it is washt, lay on the aforesaid Oyntment. This Water is very good for any Wound old or new.

For a Sore Back, or Navell-Gall.

TAke a Quarter of a Pint of Train-Oyl, and Boil in it as much beaten Verdigrease as the quantity of a Nutmeg, put it into a Pot, and 40 keep it for use.

For a new Wound made by a Stake, or Stub.

WAsh the Wound well with Vinegar and Butter melted together, then take a Clout tyed to the end of a Stick, which dip in some Linseed-Oyl, and run it to the bottom of the Wound, anointing it well; and in a short time it 50 will be Cured; And if the Air gets in the Wound, and causeth it to swell, then anoint it with Oyl of Populeon round about the Swelling.

Train-Oyl, and Verdigrease melted together, will Heal and Skin any Wound in a short time.

Fo [...] Horses Yard that's foul and furr'd without, that he pisseth in the Cod.

TAke Fresh Butter and White-wine-vinegar, melt 60 them, then pull out his Yard, taking off the Filth, and wash it with the Butter and Vinegar until it be clean, and eject some of it with a Syring up into his Yard.

A help for a tyred Hors.

IF your Horse is tired in your Journey, or in a Hunting Match, give him warm Urin to Drink, and let him Blood in the Mouth, suffer­ing him to swallow it; and if you come where Nettles are, rub his Mouth, and Sheath well therewith, and ride him gently; and when you come to your Inn or Journies end, let him be set up warm, and before your going to Bed give him about six Spoonfuls of Aquavitae, and as much Provender as he will eat; the next Morning rub his Legs with Sheeps-feet-Oyl, and he will be recovered of his tiredness.

For the Glanders.

TAke a Quart of Red Vinegar, but not Wine-Vinegar, set it over the Fire, and put there­in two Spoonfuls of English Honey, and as much Elecampane, beaten to Powder finely searsed, and as much Roch-Allom, as the bigness of an Egg, also beaten to fine Powder; and when all these are well Boiled, put in half a Pint of Sallet Oyl, then take it off, and let it stand until it is luke warm; and of this give your Horse six Spoonfuls in each Nostril, with a little Horn; then ride him out two or three turns, and tye his Head down to his Foot, for about four Hours, and let him fast as long. You must give this Drink at nine several times, being three days betwixt every Drink; every second day after he hath had his Drink, give him Chickens Guts warm rolled in beaten Bay-Salt, and put them down his Throat, giving him warm Water, and wet Hay all the time you give him this Drink, and this will amend the Glanders, and the Morning in the Chine.

For a Cold, that is not the Glanders.

TAke two Spoonfuls of Pepper well beaten, the like quantity of Mustard, four Spoon­fuls of Sallet-Oyl, four Onions roasted very soft and cut small; then take two Spoonfuls of Ele­campane beaten into fine Powder, mix all these together, and make them into Balls with Fresh Butter, and give him them three at a time; and nine Balls so given him at three times will Cure him, so that you may Travel him upon it.

Another for a Cold.

TAke new Butter unwasht without Salt mixt in it, with brown Sugar-Candy, Anniseeds and Liquorice, but if the Horse rattles in the Head, put in two Cloves of Garlick made in Balls, and this give him for three Mornings together.

Balls for the Glanders, that Cures also a Cold, prevents heavy Sickness, pur­geth away all Molten Grease, recovers a loose Stomach, keeps the Heart from fainting with Exercise, and makes a lean Horse soon fat.10

TAke Anniseeds, Cumminseeds, Fenugreek-Seeds, Elecampane-roots, of each two Ounces finely beaten and searsed, then add to them two Ounces of Brown-Sugar-Candy finely beaten, and the like quantity of the Flower of Brimstone; then take an Ounce of the Juice of Liquorice, and dis­solve it on the Fire in half a Pint of White-Wine, then take an Ounce of the best Chimical Oyl of Anniseeds, and three Ounces of Syrup of Colts-Foot; which done, take half a Pint of 20 Sallet Oyl, the like quantity of pure Honey, and Syrup of Molosses; mix all this with the former Powders, and with as much Fine Wheat-Flower as will bind them together, to work into a stiff Past; and so keep them for use in a close Gally Pot, and when you have occasion for any, take some of the Past, and make it into Balls, about the bigness of a small Egg.

For the use of these Balls they are excellent 30 for several occasions. If you use them to cure the Glanders, or a Cold, take one of these Balls, anoint it all over with sweet Butter, and so give it your Horse in the Morning fasting; then ride him a little after, and feed and water him as you are accustomed to do, and this observe for a Week together. If you use these Balls to pre­vent Sickness, use them in the same manner for three or four days. If you use them to fatten your Horse, then give them for about a Fort-night 40 together. But if you use them in the na­ture of a Scouring to take away Grease or Foul­ness, then after his Heat, and in his Heat you must use them. Also if you dissolve the Ball in his usual Water made luke-warm, it worketh the like effect, and fattens very much. If you give your Horse one of these Balls before a Journey, it prevents tiring: To give it in the height of Travel doth refresh Weariness, and to give it after Travel prevents Surfeits and inward Sick­ness. 50

A Water for Sore Eyes.

TAke a Pint of Snow Water, and dissolve it into three or four Drams of white Vitriol, and wash his Eyes therewith, or oftner until cured.

For a Pin, Pearl, Web, or any Film in the 60 Eye.

TAke a new-laid Egg, roast it very hard, cleave it in sunder long-ways and take out the Yolk; then fill the empty Holes with white Vitriol finely beaten, and so close the Egg again; then roast it the second time until the Vitriol is melted; lastly beat the Egg-shell and all in a Dish, strain it, and with the Moisture that comes from it dress the Eye.

For a Bite, or Stroak in the Eye.

TAke a little Honey with a little grated Gin­ger, mix them together, and put it into his Eye with a Feather; do this three Mornings to­gether.

To take a Film off the Eye.

TAke as much Dialthaea as the bigness of a Walnut, and put thereto the Powder of Verdigrease as much as a Hazle-nut; mix them well together, and every day put into his Eye as much of it as the bigness of a Pease, and this will take off the Film.

For a Canker in the Tongue.

TAke as much Roach-Allom as the quantity of an Egg, boyl it in three or four Spoon­fuls of Whitewine-Vinegar, with a Spoonful of Honey and an handful of Columbine-Leaves cut small; with this wash his Tongue once a day un­til it be cured, which will be in a few days. For the washing his Mouth tye a Rag about a Stick.

To make a Star or any other Mark in a Horses Forehead, or any other part.

FIrst, With a pair of Scizars clip away the Hair close to the Skin, where you would have the Mark to be; then take a piece of Brick, or a Pumice-Stone, rubbing it hard all over until it is bare, and so wipe it clean. Then make a Plaister of Burgundy-Pitch, which must be just the bigness of the Mark; and a little before you put it on, lay a hot Iron upon the Pitch to sof­ten it, to make it stick on the better; and so clap it to the place as a Plaister fit for the Mark, and lay a hot Iron on the back of the Plaister to heat it; then over the first Plaister lay another Plaister a little broader, heating the second as you did the first, and so let it stick on until it come off it self, which may be in about a Month. When these Plaisters come off, then to make the Hair come White where the Mark must be, take a little Hony and Butter (but more H [...]ny) mix them together, and anoint the place there­with once in three days; and this do for about four or five times or days, and in about three Months the Mark will be perfect, and the Hair grown.

Many more are the Diseases and Maladies of Horses, and for every Disease there is abundance of Medicines, so that should I insert them all, it would take up a Volume it self. I have here taken notice of the most frequent Distempers, with Directions for their Cures, referring you to the many Books now extant, that only treat there­of.

A TABLE of the Contents of the several Things treated of in the several Chapters in this Treatise of Horsmanship.

Chap. I.
  • THE Introduction, shewing the great use and nobleness of Horses and Horsmanship. pag. 1
Chap. II.
  • Treats of the several sorts of Horses now most in use; their Shapes, Vses, &c. ibid.
  • The Barbary Horse, ib.
  • The Spanish Horse, 2
  • The Dutch or Flanders Horse, ib.
  • The English Horse, ib.
Chap. III.
  • Of Stallions, how to choose and order them for Ge­neration. ib.
Chap. IV.
  • Of Mares, how to choose and order them for Ge­neration, 3
Chap. V.
  • Of a Soyl fit to breed in, and of Pastures, ib.
Chap. VI.
  • Of the Time and Manner of Covering, ib.20
Chap. VII.
  • Of Colts, and how to Order them, ib.
Chap. VIII.
  • The several Vses of Horses to men of Quality and Gentlemen, 4
Chap. IX.
  • Of Riding the Great or Manag'd Horse, with Rules for the same, ib.
Chap. X.
  • Of Hunting Horses, how to choose and order them, 7 30
Chap. XI.
  • Of Race Horses, and how to Dyet and Order them, 8
Chap. XII.
  • Of the Pad, 9
  • To Marks of a good Horse, ib.
  • To know the Age of a Horse, ib.
  • The true Shape of a Fine Horse, 10
Chap. XIII.
  • Of Horses for the Coach, Wagon, Burthen, &c. ib.40
Chap. XIV.
  • Of Riders, Keepers, Grooms, &c. their Office and Duty, 11
Chap. XV.
  • Of Keeping, Dyeting, and Ordering the Race-Horse, ib.
Chap. XVI.
  • Of Keeping any Horse for Pleasure, Hunting, Tra­vel, &c. 16
Chap. XVII.
  • Of several excellent Medicines for Curing Mala­dies most frequent in Horses, 17 50
  • Of Sickness in General, ib.
  • Observations relating to Sickness, 18
  • Observations from the Dung, ib.
  • Concerning Feeding, ib.
  • Concerning the State of a Horses Body, ib.
  • Concerning his Hair, ib.
  • Concerning Lameness or Stiffness, ib.
  • Observation from the Urine, ib.
  • Concerning the Privy Parts, ib.
  • Receipts of Julips, Glysters, and Potions for Cool­ing 60 a Horse over-heated, ib.
  • For a Cold, ib.
  • To Comfort a Horse over-Riden, ib.
  • A cooling Julip in a Fever, ib.
  • A Cooling Potion, ib.
  • For the Bots, and all manner of Worms, ib.
  • For a Loosness, ib.
  • A Scowring, 20
  • For the Spleen, ib.
  • A Glyster to expel Wind. ib.
  • For the Wind Collick, ib.
  • For a Horse that Pisseth Blood, ib.
  • For a Cough, ib.
  • To cause a Horse to Piss that has the Wind Col­lick, ib.
  • To cause a Horse to Vomit, ib.
  • A Purge, ib.
  • Glysters, ib.
  • For a Vein that swells after letting Blood, 21
  • For a Horse Burnt by a Mare, ib.
  • The Staggers, ib.
  • For a Broken-Winded Horse, ib.
  • To stop Bleeding, ib.
  • For a Shoulder-Strain, ib.
  • For a Sinew-Sprung Horse, 22
  • For a Back Sinew-strain, or any Grief, Pain, Shrinking, or Numness of Sinews or Joynts, ib.
  • For Grease faln into the Legs, and the Scratches, ib.
  • For a Spavin, Splint, Curb, or Ring-bone, ib.
  • To make the Hoofs grow quickly, and tough and strong, 23
  • For a Founder, Surbait, &c. in the Feet, ib.
  • A general Salve for any Sore swelling, ib.
  • The Farcy, ib.
  • For a Farcy, Mange, Scab or Leprosie, ib.
  • To help a Horse that Galls between the Legs through Heat or ill Dressing, ib.
  • For a Canker in a Horses Mouth, ib.
  • For an Horse that has got an Over-reach, or Tread of the Heel, ib.
  • To draw out a Nail or Thorn, ib.
  • For a Stub, or other hurt about the Foot, ib.
  • To kill Lice, ib.
  • For a Prick in the Foot, ib.
  • A Green Oyntment to heal a Wound, 24
  • For a Store-Back or Navel-Gall, ib.
  • For a New Wound made by a Stake or Stub, ib.
  • For a Horses Yard that is foul and furr'd without, that he pisseth Blood, ib.
  • A Help for a Tyred Horse, ib.
  • For the Glanders, ib.
  • For a Cold that is not the Glanders, ib.
  • Another Medicine for a Cold, ib.
  • Balls for the Glanders, that Cures also a Cold, pre­vents Sickness, purgeth Grease, recovers a Sto­mach, and makes a Lean Horse Fat, 25
  • A Water for Sore Eyes, ib.
  • For a Pin, Pearl, Web or Film in the Eye, ib.
  • For a Bite or Stroak in the Eye, ib.
  • To take a Film off the Eye, ib.
  • For a Canker in the Tongue, ib.
  • To make a Star or other Mark in any part of a Horse, ib.

HAWKING, or FALCONRY.

To the R.c Worshipfull S.r Iohn Brograve of Hamells In Hartford shire Baronet.

This Plate is Humbly Dedicated by Richard Blome.

HAWKING AND FAULCONRY.

PART II.
Wherein is treated of the several kinds of Hawks now in use, with their Natures and Qualities. The manner of Reclaiming, Mewing, and Flying them for the respective Game, proper for each Hawk, with di­rections for feeding and ordering them. Their Diseases and Cures. With a short Discourse of the Spaniel, shewing his use in Faulconry; with Directions for the Breeding, Ordering and Managing him for the Game: Together with Directions for the choosing, ordering, and ma­king a Setting Dog.

CHAP. I.
The Introduction.

ANcient Authors, such as Aristotle and Pli­ny, make no mention of this Noble Art, from whence we may probably conje­cture it was unknown unto them of that Age, else without doubt we should have met 10 with some Tracts thereof amongst other things of Antiquity. 'Tis true, many of them tell us that the Eagle is a Bird of Prey, but none of them have observed that this fierce and couragious Prince of the Air was ever reclaimed by the Art of Man.

In the Creation all Creatures were willingly subject to our first Parents; but since, it is by con­straint, if they obey us, and not without great trouble mixt with frequent danger. Of this there 20 is no clearer demonstration than this Art of Hawking, by means whereof a Bird, that by na­ture is wild, strong, swift, and cruel, is brought tame and tractable, insomuch that when she is at her own liberty soaring in the Air, yet such is her loyalty and obedience to her Master, that at his hollow, or signal of the Lure, she descends and comes to his fist.

In our Age this Art is arrived to its Perfection, but hitherto what hath been treated of it has been very erroneous.

The Greeks and Latins finding the Faulcon of all other Birds of Prey, the most adventurous, hardy, and yet tractable, did communicate her name to all others. The one calling Hawks by the name of Jerax, and the others by that of Accipiter. The French have imitated them, and we the French, and hence it comes that this Art hath its denomination of Faulconry.

CHAP. II.
Of the several sorts of Hawks.

THey who have wrote of this Art have di­vided the several sorts of Hawks after a various manner; some assigning ten sorts, others eight or nine, and others but seven. In this Treatise I shall speak of those in use amongst us in this Kingdom, which are the best for any Game, either for River or Land.

These Hawks may be comprehended under these two general Heads, viz. Long-winged Hawks, [Page 28] and Short-winged Hawks; and the rather for that all Long-winged Hawks require much of the same reclaiming, manning, feeding and mewing the one as the other; the like doth those that art Short-winged, which differeth much from the Long-winged. The Long-winged Hawks are the Fa [...]l­con, or Slight-Faulcon, the Gerfaulcon, Lanner, Bawrel, Merlin and Hobby.

The Short-winged are the Goshawk and the Spar­row-hawk. 10

And note that all Long-winged Hawks are brought to the Lure, and Short-winged ones to the hand.

All these Hawks have their Males or Tassels, which are nothing near so strong, large and fit for Service; yet are they of very good courage, and serviceable, especially the Jerkin, Tassel Gen­tle, and Tassel of a Goshawk, and sometimes sur­passes the Females. And these Tassels have names appropriate to them; viz. The 20

  • Gerfaulcon, her Jerkin.
  • Faulcon or Slight-Faulcon, her Tassel Gentle.
  • Lanner, her Lanneret.
  • Merlin, her Jack Merlin.
  • Hobby, her Jack Hobby.
  • Bawrel, her Bawret.
  • Castrell, her Jack Castrell
  • Goshawk, her Tassel of the Goshawk.
  • Sparrow-hawk, her Muslet.

All these Hawks have these Names, viz. Eyesses,30 Branchers, Romage or Soar-Hawks, Lentiners, Hag­gards, and Entermewed Haggards.

She is called an Eyess, for being taken out of the Nest and bred up by hand in a Room. There is another Eyess, and that is also taken out of the Nest, but bred up at Hack, that is, by bringing her up, and to let her fly at pleasure, observing a certain place to feed her at, making there a Nest for her; and this sort so bred up is called a Tackler or Hack-Hawk, which generally proves 40 the best.

She is called a Brancher, being taken when she is but able to hop from Bough to Bough: And this Term properly belongs to Short-winged Hawks.

When she can flee and prey for her self, then she is a Ramage or Soar-Hawk.

A Soar-Hawk taken about Lent following, is properly called a Lentiner, but being taken in hot weather generally is short liv'd.50

If taken after Lent, she is properly called a Haggard; and when she hath preyed for her self a year, and hath mewed most of her Feathers, she is called an Intermewed Haggard.

There are other names to be observed for Hawks, viz. the first year she is a Soar or Ra­mage Hawk [...] the second an Intermewer; the third a White Hawk, then a Hawk of the first Coat, and every year a Hawk of such a Coat, as the se­cond, third, fourth, or the like, so long as she li­veth.60

The Male of an Eyess, is an Eyess Tassel; of a Brancher, a Brancher Tassel; of a Lentiner, a Lentiner Tassel; of the Soar or Ramage-Hawk, the Soar Tassel; and of a Haggard, the Haggard Tassel.

According to these diversity of names and times a Hawk is to be esteemed; for by how much the later you take her, by so much the more difficult will she be to be reclaimed and manned, as being the more Haggardly, or wilder of Na­ture, but being well manned, doth make the best Hawk for the Field.

An Eyrie of Hawks consists of sometimes more, sometimes less, four or five being a good Eyrie, and seldom more.

The Males of Hawks are to be observed; the first year they are of a reddish Plume, after they have mewed they are blewish, and the older they are the blewer and whiter is the Male; and 'tis observed, that the white Male proves the best conditioned; the dark maled is brave metled, but subject to Crowing, that is, to fly at Crows.

The earlier a Hawk is hatched in the year, the redder, brisker and livelier will her eyes be, (which is her excellency, and sheweth a good Hawk) and one to be in health; for when she is sick her eyes will be pale and wan.

Thus having given some general Heads of the several sorts of Hawks now in use amongst us, in the next place I shall treat of each Hawk a­part; and first with Long-winged Hawks, and then the Gerfaulcon requires the first place.

CHAP. III.
The GERFAVLCON.

THis Hawk is much larger then any other Faulcon, and thence it is that they have sometimes been esteemed a peculiar kind of Bird, not comprehended under the general Name of a Faulcon; and for her largeness, some esteem her to be a kind of Eagle. She is very fierce and hot, which causeth her to be so hard to be reclaim­ed, so that her Keeper had need be endowed with patience, and to treat her gently; but being over­come she proves an excellent Hawk, and will scarce refuse to fly at any Game, as the Hern and River Fowl; but her largeness is such, that it frights the Fowl which are in these parts, which hinders her killing her Game, and therefore is not esteemed so useful as the Haggard Faulcon, or Ra­mage Faulcon.

She is a stately Bird to behold, and most fit for Princes and Persons of Quality. Her Head and Eyes are like the Haggard Faulcons, with a large bending Beak somewhat blewish, her Wings are shorter than the Slight Faulcon; she hath large Nares, and a Maile like a Lanners; her Feet are large, and strong armed, and her Traine is much like the Lanners.

In going up to her Gate she is much of the na­ture of the Merlin, not using the same way as other Faulcons, for they climb up upon the Train when they find any Fowl, and as soon as they have got above it, they make several throughs or down-shoots till they have killed or bound it; and after she hath killed her Game, reward her as you do the Faulcon, which shall be next treat­ed of.

[Page 29] Her Keeper had need have a great care how to make her at first (as indeed all other Hawks) for being well made she will keep so; therefore be not too over-hasty in your manning and reclaim­ing her, but use a gentle and familiar way.

If you intend her for the Brook, Lure her as you do the Faulcon, and also feed her so, unless she be a slack metled Hawk, and then her meat must be wash't, and Stones often given her, and Tyrings constantly when she is empty, keeping 10 her warm after it.

When you have brought her forward, give her often Castings to cleanse and purge her, as also to prevent the growth of too much glut and fatness in her inward Parts, which will endanger her life, which is but short at the best) unless in very skilful hands, which, together with the great trouble and charges in keeping her, makes it that she is in so little use amongst the Gentry, and the rather for that the Haggard Faulcon doth perform 20 the same, and better, unless it be at the Hern or Kyte, for which Flights the Gerfaulcon and Jer­kin are only fit.

CHAP. IV.
Of the FAVLCON, or SLIGHT 30 FAVLCON.

THe Faulcon or Slight Faulcon, is of several shapes, viz. some large, some small, others long shaped, and some round trust; so are they also of several Mailes, as white, black, brown, and russet.

The principal sorts of Faulcons are by all agreed to be the Intermewed Haggard, and the Lentiner Faulcon now much in use.40

Those that are excellent are thus shaped, viz. broad shouldred, carrying her breadth down to her Train wide and strong, with short Arms and a large Foot, a short Beak and a large Nare, and close plumed, high Thighs with white on the in­sides, great full black Eyes, a large breast, her Head plumed dark or black with a white Wreath. In her Flight she is known from another Hawk by her nimble and quick getting up to her Place, by her strong stirring, and by her skill in her 50 stooping and killing her Game.

She is very bold and hardy, of a great strength and courage to endure both wind and weather, gaining her Prey by main Wing, and into what place she cometh she is victor. By nature she is very hot, and consequently the better able to en­dure cold weather, witness her high soaring in the Air; and likewise when once she begins to cast her Feathers, she meweth with more expedition. Her greatest fault is, she is more difficult to be re­claimed 60 then any other Hawk.

From this Bird the Faulconer is said to derive his Name, as well as the Art it self; for that it seems the chief end of a Faulconer, and the Art of Faulconry is rightly to reclaim and man the Faulcon; for she fleeth at all Games, both at Field and River, but most proper for the River: So that he that throughly understands how to bring the Faulcon to that Perfection that she is capable of, may well deserve the Name of a Master of this Art.

This Hawk is a great pains taker, no Weather discouraging her from her Game, if possible to be found; and although she hath laboured two or three days together in ill weather, yet she will not be tired; and indeed every Hawk requireth exer­cise: But old staunch Hawks should have more rest.

There is a pretty way for the flying at the Kyte, which affords good diversion; it is thus performed: Get an Owl, and tye a small Fox tail or some such devise to one of her Legs, that she may not give you the Go by, and being in the Field, the day being warm and clear, you will soon discover a Kyte cooling her self in the A [...]r, then let your Owl fly, and the Kyte will not fail to make near her to gaze upon her, and when the Kyte is descended pretty near her, then let fly your Hawk, and the Kyte perceiving the surprize, doth endeavour to preserve her self by mounting up and winding the most she can. And here the Combat begins, but oft-times none can see where it ends, both mounting out of sight; but in the end the Hawk becomes Victor, and by main strength and courage beats down the Kyte, yet not without many turns and wren [...]hes in the Air, to the great pleasure of the Spectators.

CHAP. V.
The LANNER.

THis is a Hawk well known, and much u­sed, being called a Kitchin Hawk, and that not improperly, as being able to make more Flights in a day then any other Hawk, except the Goshawk. She is both for the River and Field, but chiefly for the last for Pheasant and Partridge.

If she is excellent she should have her Head small, her Beak short, her Feet blewish with short Tallons, her Feathers before mixt with black and white, not traversed as the Faulcons, but with strait spots amongst the Plumes, and her Neck short and thick.

She is very easie to be manned, yet hard to be made a good Hawk, by reason of the slackness of her mettle; and he only can make her a good Hawk that can keep her stomack in good order.

She is thus known from other Hawks, she is of a more blackish colour, is less armed and pounced, and hath a lesser Beak.

The Lanner is less inclining to the Crock than other Long-winged Hawks, and therefore most fit for a young Faulconer. She holds her Perch with­out Baiting, more constantly then any other Hawk.

If you flee with the Lanner, she must be kept very sharp.

She keeps her Castings long, therefore give her hard Castings made of Toe, and sometimes knots of Wormwood, and often Stones.

[Page 30] After she hath flowen to mark, she will sit, or fly according to her mettle and nature; and for that reason she is very observant to the Dogs, giving great attention to their questing, and all to give her self a labour, and that she may kill at her ease and pleasure.

She is of a harsh and stubborn mettle, and wants neither courage nor strength in the Field; being wild, and yet, when under our keeping; will stand in need of all the Spurs that can be 10 given her to make her do her business; so that her Keeper had need use all the care and gen­tleness he can towards her, more then towards any Faulcon. The Eyesses are indifferent gentle, but the Haggards surpass in wildness.

All the time of her Luring, the Lure should be garnish't with hard wash't meat only, and most of her Rewards should be Bits from her Keepers hands; and being of a hard and strong constitu­tion, you are to use hard wash't meats, with stones, 20 according to her temper.

She is exceedingly addicted to carry, and there­fore the greater care ought to be had in restrain­ing her from that vice, which may be thus pre­vented. When she is brought to know the Lure, you must Lure her only one at a time, she be­ing subject to catch at another, and if you ob­serve not this you hazard her spoiling; for when once she begins to know the Lure, she will settle her love on it with a greedy desire to hold it 30 fast, and not to part with it; and from hence it is, that if you use it often, she will through fear of being deprived of it, endeavour to carry it from you.

You must be very careful of begetting a good acquaintance and familiarity betwixt her and the Spaniels, for she hath this coyness more then o­ther Hawks, and therefore at first accustom her to few Spaniels, and such that are staunch and well beaten to the Field, and at good command; for should she at first take any offence at them,40 it is a hard matter to reclaim her from it.

The Lanners may be made to flee the River, but it will require great care, long training, and much skill and conduct; however she is capable of it; but then you must neither feed too hard, nor flee too much, either drawing her down from her wonted gate and high flying, although she were never so hard and able; you must there­fore be careful to feed her well, and not to set too sharp an edge on her stomack when you de­sign 50 her for flying, for her Nature rather leads her to return to her Keeper for a Reward, then to take pains for it.

What hath been said of the Lanner may be said of the Lanneret, observing to keep her high and as fullof flesh as you can; to do which rightly, you must give her due quantities of Stones and Casting, lest she be overcome with glut and fat: But being well trained and made in ward to the man, she may be flown to the River, and being 60 well quarred, proves a good Killer: But I hold she is best for the Partridge if you can through­ly reclaim her from her aversion to the Spaniels.

In Summer the Weather being hot, you ought to feed so much the cleaner, and wash the harder. In Winter being cold, feed the better; and by this means you may hold an even hand over them.

CHAP. VI.
The MERLIN.

THis kind of Hawk is fit for Ladies, by rea­son of its smallness and fine shape, as also for its good Conditions; yet is it of a bold cou­rage, being in all points like the Gerfaulcon, and must be kept after the same manner.

If she is well manned, lured, and attended, she will prove an excellent Hawk, being of a quick flight, and very bold and eager at her Game, which is the Thrush, Blackbird, Quail, Lark, and the like, also the Partridge, and will attack those larger then her self; and although she hath not the strength to hold the Partridge, yet with her great strength in her Beak, she will kill them, in which is her excellency.

Having made her to the Lure, and that she will patiently endure the Hood, then make her a Train with a Partridge, if she foot and kill it, re­ward her well, permitting her to take pleasure thereon; and being well entred this way, you may flee her at the wild Partridge, and be sure to reward her with it if she kill, cherishing her also with your voice, which is a great encourage­ment to her. If she proves not hardy at the first Train, try her with a second or third; and if she proves not good then, you may despair of her.

For the manning and reclaiming the Merlin, use the same ways and means as with Faulcons. But some are of Opinion that Merlin's cannot be mewed, and if they be, are seldom afterwards good; but Experience declares the contrary: For if they are hardy, and have flowen well in their Soarage, they have proved much better after their mewing.

It is usual to fly a Cast at a time, which is ve­ry pleasant; for the Birds are so terrified at the sight of them, that they choose rather to take shelter under the Horses legs, then to rely on their wings. And a Cast of Merlins makes excel­lent Sport for the Snipe in the Winter, being much like the flight of the Hern and the Ger­faulcon.

To order this flight aright, do thus; When your Merlins are throughly manned and made gentle, carry them into the Field, and having found a Lark or some small Bird, make loose their Hoods, and go as near as you can into the wind to the Bird, and as soon as the Bird riseth unhood them, and cast them off to flee, and when they have beaten down the Game, let them feed thereon for their reward. At first you must flee them with the most advantage you can, that they may not be over-wrought.

CHAP. VII.
The HOBBY.

THis Hawk next the Merlin is least of all Hawks, yet had in good esteem, being observed to follow the Falconer and Dogs in 10 the Field; and when she espies any Lark or other small Bird, she makes at them with great Cou­rage, few escaping her.

As to her Shape and Colour, her Legs are yellow, her Beak blew, with the Crinets or small Feathers under her Eyes black; the top of her Head is like the Falcons, with two white Seams on her Neck, her Breast Feathers are for the most part brown, yet poudred with white Spots, her Back, Train, and Wings are blackish, her Stretch­ers 20 and P [...]urces are large, in respect of her short Legs, and her Wings and Sayls are larger than any other Hawk of her bigness.

She is a Hawk of the Lure, and not of the Fist (as all Long Winged Hawks are) and is a high Flyer, very Nimble, bold and daring, and will attack a Kite, or Crow.

She affords very good diversion with Nets and Spaniels, which is thus done, cause your Dogs to range and beat about the Field, to Spring the 30 Larks; but the poor Birds espying the Hawk Soaring aloft, dares not betake themselves to their Wings, thinking to lye close; and so you draw the Nets over and take them.

The Hobby lieth indifferent well on her Wings, and when she follows the Spaniels as they range a­bout, will make divers turns on them, so that when the Game is Sprung, she may the more advantageously stoop from her Wings; and being well Manned, she serves for several sorts of 40 Game.

The Hobby must be taught and trained in each particular like a Falcon; and observe not to flee her in the Heat of the Day, for then she is apt to Soar and be lost (although but for a time, be­ing to be found again) but about two a Clock in the Afternoon begin to flee her; and so hold on till near Sun-set, and longer is not good, for fear of losing her; and if you order her accor­ding to the Directions given for the Falcon, she 50 will make a Hawk of great delight; for you may flee her oftner, and when you can't any o­ther.

She is often made to Flee the Patridge at the first Season of the Year, also the Quail, Wheat-Ear, and the like.

In plain Champain Fields, where great and tall Bushes grow, the Hobby will make abundance of Stoopings (which resting sometimes) and if the Bushes s [...]and at some reasonable Distance, the 60 Birds will be so terrified at the sight of her, as to suffer you almost to take them up with your Hand; but may easily kill them with a Cross-Bow. And thus they will do Seven or Eight times, making their Stoopings with Rest between, so that the Sport will last three or four Hours.

The Eyess Hobby is best for the Mount; and I hold this way the best for Reclaiming and prepa­ring them. You must take her out of the Nest a little before she is able to stand on the side thereof; then provide some other Nest on any Tree in your Garden or Orchard about Seven or Eight Foot from the Ground; and there at set times feed her with Bits from the Sharp end of a Stick, and when she is able to stand stiff on her Legs, and to tug hard for her Meat, then teach her to come from thence by your Art, in Lureing and Calling her, though it be but a foot at first, and so by Degrees further and further until she will come from the Nest to you as far as she can well hear you; and there must she attend on her Wings, until you take her in: When she is full Summed, she must have her Jesses, Bewits and Bells, with other usual Ornaments and Dres­sings; then must she be made acquainted with the Hood, and cariage on your Fist all day; She must be also accustomed to Men, Horses, and Dogs, and she must be trained with Larks, which had need be let loose with a great deal of Caution, that she perceive not they are let go from your Hand: Her first Trains should be let loose in a Creance of Brown-thread, and Moun­ted forty or fifty Foot High before you unhood her, three or four Trains thus killed will be a suf­ficient Introduction. When she is thus throughly made, you may Flee her at the Lark with Advan­tage of the Wind, and near approach, and after­wards you need not use so much care; for she will soon gain Strength, and understand her Business. At such times when you do not use nor Flee her, you need to look after her only at Feeding times, remembring to draw her by your Lure and Voice, at least a Quarter, if not Half a Mile from home; and there Feed and leave her, for when she hath once Fed, Feaked, and Rejoyced, she will soon find the way home, to the place where she was Bred, and Trained up. On Resting Days when she is Gorged, you may find her in the Heat of the Day Flying and Soaring aloft, whereby she be­comes acquainted with the adjacent places, so that if you leave her three or four Miles from home with her Prey in her Foot, you need not fear her coming home after she hath eaten it, and rejoyced, as aforesaid; but you may not trust her thus lon­ger than the beginning of September.

There are of the Haggard Hobbies, that are ve­ry cuning in their Flights, and will desire to be High Flown on their Wings, that from thence they may Conquer their Prey with Advantage, and will hardly be provoked to go from the Fist to her place. When they fly not, their feeding should be clean wash't Mutton, or the like; they should also have Stones and Castings duly given; and you must be careful of setting a right Edge on their Stomacks, when you Flee them; for they are in all respects according to their Capacity, as Bold and Hardy as any other Hawk whatsoe­ver.

CHAP. VIII.
The BAWREL.

THis Hawk for Largness and Shape, is some­what like the Lanner, but hath a longer Bo­dy and Sails. She is generally a fast goer afore­head,10 and a good Field-Hawk; and in Enclosures will kill a Pheasant, but being a Longwinged Hawk is unfit for the Coverts.

CHAP. IX.
The CASTREL.20

THis is a Sort of Hawk, which for Shape is is much like the Lanner, but for Size like the Hobby, her Game is the Grouse, which is a Foul common in the North of England, also in Wind­sor Forest, and divers other places. She will kill a Partridge, but it is a Hawk of a very coward­ly 30 Nature, and a slow goer aforehead, and there­fore not much in use.

CHAP. X.
The GOSHAWK.40

THis is a Short Winged Hawk, whose nature and properties require different Management, that is, Manning, Reclaiming and Mewing from Falcons and other Long Winged Hawks. And of all Hawks, she is doubtless the most Shie and Coy both towards the Men and Dogs, requiring more the Courtship of a Mistress, than the Authority of a Master, being apt to remember any unkind and rough usage; but being gently handled, will become very tractable, and kind to her Keeper; 50 and may be brought from that Aversion she hath to the Spaniels.

There are divers Sorts and Sizes of Goshawks, which are different in Goodness, force and har­diness, according to the several Countries where they are Bred; but no place affords so good as those of Moscovy, Norway, and the North of Ireland, especially in the County of Tyrone.

The most weighty are by many esteemed the best, and for Colour the White-Mail; for gene­rally 60 they are bold, and yet not so wild, but that by little industry they may be Reclaimed; and those of this Colour are for the most part stron­ger than others, and may be well made to Flee the Hern, or any such strong Bird.

As to the Proportion and Shape of a good Gos­hawk, she should be thus made; To have a small long Head, a short Beak, a large Throat, her Nares, Back, and Feet large, a long Neck, big Breast, short fleshly Thighs, short and sharp black Poun­ces and Tallons, large Feathers, under her Train to be Engouted, that is to have black Spots, the Train-Feathers to be short, and the Covert-Fea­thers of the Train Spotted with Black Bars, and of these the fewer the better.

The Signs to know when she is in Health, is her Pounces, which will be Black, and her Sear and Feet well Guilded.

The Goshawk by nature is very Hardy, and catching for Prey, and withall very disdainful, so that a Nice Hand must be kept over her, with constant carrying her Barefaced, with the Perch to be where People are frequent, and that she take no Fright; so that they that desire to keep her long, must use her gently, and be well advi­sed when, and how to Flee her, lest if she miss her Prey she take Pet, and so make you wait upon her.

The Goshawk is very apt to take stand on any Tree, and when they discover their Prey, will quit the Tree with such fierceness and strength, that they seldom miss their Game.

Your Goshawk being Manned, take her to the Field, and with a Train-Partridge embolden her, and let her Plume thereon, which will make her more eager. If the Partridge chance to Spring, let her flee, and if she kills it, Reward her: And if it happen that the Spaniels should take it (as oft times high metled Dogs will do) then be sure to take it speedily from them, and cast it out to your Hawk, crying Ware Hawk, ware, and let her feed thereon at pleasure. Thus using her three or four times, if she have any Mettle she will doubtless become excellent for this sport. But take notice that after you have thus Rewarded her with such bloody Meat at fill, you must not fly her in at least a day or two after; and at first enter her to the strongest Partridge you can, for if you enter her on Young-ones it will make her lazy, and not care for long flights. If she kill, Reward her therewith, and be sure have a great care to keep her in good order; and if in case your Hawk (as being out of order) turn Tail, or give off the flight and take a Tree, call in your Spaniels to the Retrieve that way she flew the Partridge, and let the Faulconer also draw himself that way, and being provided with a Partridge, let him cast it out to her (but so that she see it not) which will make her believe it is the same she flew at, and when you cast it out, cry Ware Hawk, ware; Then make her seize it, and let her feed thereon; and by this means she will be encouraged to flee out her flight another time. If the next time you flee her (which must be after a day or two) she serve you so again, then observe the aforesaid Directions, and if she yet retain her ill custom, she will not be worth the keeping.

[Page] [Page]

PARTRIDG HAWKING

To the Worshipfull John Bassett of Heanton-Punchardon In Devon-Shire Esq [...]

This Plate is humbly dedicated by Richard Blome

Partridge Hawking.

THis Game affords great Diversion and Re­creation, and attended with no small profit; for I have been credibly informed by a Worthy Gentleman and an expert Falconer, Sir Ralph Dutton, that he hath killed in a Season with one Goshawk an hundred Brace of Partridges. 10

For the taking them, your chief business is to be prepared with about four or five Couple of Spaniels that are good Rangers, and such as will hunt at command in compass; whose motion you are to follow on Horse-back with your Hawk on your Fist, so that you may be ready to cast her off upon their springing any. And when she hath killed it, for her Reward observe the aforesaid Directions.

It is now the Mode to go into the Field with 20 a Cast or two of Hawks, and about six or seven Couple of good ranging Spaniels, and when a Covey is sprung, to cast them all off at a time, which affords good diversion to the Spectators. But in the Opinion of some, this way is not ap­proved of, as being designed rather to go out to kill what they can, than only for the Sport.

The Falcons and other long Winged Hawks be­ing flown at the Field, if they kill not their Game in the foot the first flight, are taught by 30 nature to climb up and mount aloft upon the Mark for their advantage, and to the end they may kill at their stooping; some indeed will trust to their own swiftness and master their Prey at the stretch: So also the Goshawk through her swift flying doth at her pleasure master her Prey, whereas those others that are slugs and slow of flight do win what they get by Policy, watching their advantages, wherein their Keeper ought to assist them.40

The Goshawk in the time of her ful­ness and pride will not without very gentle usage be brought conformable in any measure to her Keepers Will, but when she comes to be Enseamed and made ready for the purpose is exceeding prone to Bate, and consequently to throw her self into several Distempers which shortens her days. To prevent this and many ilconveniencies, you ought by your utmost diligence to make her Inwards and loving to 50 you.

As for Cold Meat, it matters not much whe­ther you wash it or not, for the Blood being cold for a day or two hath lost its vigour; but use not cold Meat long, for that breeds many Diseases. When you go into the Fields to flee, take a Meals Meat well washt and clean dryed, and after she hath Cast in the Morning, give her a bit or two as she is hooded; and if you flee her not in about an hour after give her another 60 bit, and so afterwards according to your discre­tion to keep her Stomach sharp, and yet to pre­vent Wind, whereunto all Hawks are sub­ject.

When you set her to the Perch Hood her, and indeed your Fist for the most part should be her Perch until she is throughly Reclaimed and well flown; for in her making a little rest will cause her to return to her first Ramageness, and to forget what you have taught her.

Whilst you are Making, Enseaming and Re­claiming her, feed her often, and but a little at a time, and not with set Meals, and give her often Tiring upon a sweet Rump of Beef, or the Pini­ons of the Wings of a Fowl, which will keep her Head clear, and quicken her Stomach; for when once she is full, she hath no more love for you at that present; whereas if you keep her sharp she will be regardful of you, listning for your coming with joy and delight when she hears your voice, for then she expects something from your welcom hands.

When you Enter her, put her on the highest pitch of hunger to prevent the worst, and then you shall discover both her Mettle and Love; besides you shall thereby prevent many incon­veniences of Frights and Sloth, which attend an imperfect and dead Stomach.

Having shewed how to make your Goshawk for the Land, it will not be amiss to give some Instructions how to make her for the River, for the Hern, Wild-Goose, Duck, Teal, &c. which is thus done. First, Make her to the Fist, as is already prescribed; then carry her without Bells and en­ter her with a live Duck tyed to a Creance, and so draw near it with your Hawk on your Fist unhooded, and then throw out the Duck and cast off your Hawk, and if she take it at the Souse, let her be Rewarded and fed with a reason­able Gorge; then take her up to your Fist, hooding her, and giving her a Leg or Wing thereof to plume upon.

After this manner do two or three times with about three days respit between, and it will well enter her for the Game.

Directions for Keeping and Reclaiming a Goshawk; as also how to Mew and draw her out of the Mew, and make her flying.

THE chiefest Skill of a Falconer is to make his Hawk delight in her Flight, which is occasioned by kind usage; and therefore it hap­pens that many Goshawks (as indeed other sorts) that are good in their Soarage, become worse after Mewing.

At the first entrance he should be provided with a Train-Partridge in his Bag to Reward her on occasions, to gain her love, and be sure to keep her always in good order; and to that end observe, that all Goshawks are naturally full of all moist humors, especially in their Heads, and therefore he ought to ply them with Tiring and Pluming Morning and Evening, to open their Heads, and occasion them to cast out Water thereat. A Rump of Beef, a Pigeon, or the Leg of a Chicken is very good to Plume them.

You should give her every Night Castings of Feathers, Cotton, Linnen Thrums, a Hares or Rabets-Foot; and observe it in the Morning whe­ther it is wrapped round or nor, whether dry or moist, and of what colour the Water is that [Page 34] drops out of the Casting; for by these signs he may know the condition of his Hawk, for the cleaner the Water is, and the sweeter the Casting, the better she is in health; for if her Castings are clammy, she is not fit to be flown that day.

Her Mewts must also be observed, to see if they be clean or not, and prescribe Remedies ac­cordingly. He must keep her clean, and her Feathers whole, and if any happen to be bro­ken 10 to Imp them, and if bruised to put them into Warm-Water to straiten; but if they hap­pen to be in such a place that you can't put them into Water (as towards the Plumage or Pinion) then heat the Stemb or Stalk of a Cabage in Warm-Water, slit it and so lay it on the Bent-feathers, which will soon draw them strait. And a good Falconer should always be provided with his Imping-Needles, his Semond, and other Instru­ments. He should always keep her high and 20 lusty, yet so that she may be in a condition for a flight.

If she chance to Bath her self in Cold Wea­ther, after a flight (which sometimes she will do through the carelesness of the Falconer, in not letting her Bath her self) set her in the Sun and she will soon dry her self; but if it is Rainy or Frosty-Weather, then set her near a Fire with her Back towards it, and not her Gorge.

Goshawks by nature are addicted to Poult; 30 that is, to kill Poultrey; and to bring them from that ill quality, set their Perch in some place where Poultrey comes to acquaint them therewith, by which means they will not be apt to fly at them, and the Perch should be lined with Cotton or Canvass; and in Warm-Weather she may be set for an hour or two in the Morning in the Sun-shine, and always observe never to set her near a Wall, to the end she may not hurt her Feathers when she Bateth. 40

It is requisite to fly the Goshawk the first Year to the Field, and not to the Covert, by which means she will learn to hold out, and not to turn Tail in the midst of her flight; For a Mewed Hawk is very tractable, and it is better for her to be a little Ramage than over-Manned.

If you design her for great Fowl, then make her Trains thereof, and do not fly her at less.

If you would have her to fly with Dogs, train 50 her up with them, and Reward her with them to make her acquainted with them; but of this more in the Chapter of Spaniels.

In case she is in flying, and a great Killer, you may give her bloody Rewards, with Suppers of the same, or at least three times a Week; but not so in the time of Rest.

Concerning Castings.

AS for the Castings to give your Goshawk, I 60 advise you neither to this or that in particular, but search out what agreeth with her best, and that use. Be sure to get her a good Stomach before you proffer her Castings, and let it be no more than what she can easily swallow; when once she hath taken it, give her a bit or two of Meat to please her at first putting on her Hood, in which she must sit until you find she hath put over her Casting into her Pannel. She will soon perceive what it is she is to do when you afterwards offer her any, if you Reward her kindly after her taking it. When once she hath put it into her Pannel, give her a reasonable Sup­per. I hold it not amiss to acquaint you with this Method at the beginning; but when once she is truly Enseamed give her her Supper, and when you are going to Bed, give her her Casting with a little bit of Meat. When she is in flying, give her Plumage every Night when you feed her up; but when she Rests, feed her at Night with very clean Meat without any Casting, and prepare a Thrum or Hares-Foot Casting of a reasonable size, not too big, and early in the Morning she will Cast; and then in half an hour you may give her a bit or two of Meat, and she will be fit to flee in the Afternoon.

Your own observation of the difference be­tween the Complexions of Castings thus given, compared with those given upon a full Feeding, will soon convince you that the latter way is safe, and not unpleasing to your Hawk, as the other is. But if you will give Castings at Night, feed her not too full, and give her a little Plumage with it. If she dislikes Castings of Thrum (as many do) then give her those of a Hares-Foot, or Coneys-Foot, the Bones and Fur being well broken together.

How a Goshawk ought to be called loose, and taught to draw, and in what pla­ces.

FOR calling your Goshawk loose, that is to teach her to follow you from place to place, you must take her some distance from Home, and to such a place that is remote from a Town or House where Poultrey are, being great tempta­tions to her; but the most convenient place is a young Wood or Grove solitarily seated, and ha­ving prepared her Stomach fit for the purpose, put her up into some Tree, walking some distance from her into the Wind, gently using your Voice as if you had Spaniels vvith you, to the end she may be the better invited to follow you, and if she doth, let her not be too long, but call her to your Fist, Rewarding her vvith a Bit or two of Meat, vvhich you should have in a readiness in your Bag; Then put her up into a Tree again, and vvith a gentle and low Voice call her after you, as before directed, saying, Come, Come.

Pheasant Hawking; Giving Directions how to enter a Goshawk to the Covert for Pheasants.

THere is none can order and manage the Gos­hawk to the Covert, but such as are of a strong and able Body, vvith Spirit and Courage added thereto to follow her up and down; and having one so qualified observe these Directions, for this Flight is different from the Champain-Fields, [Page]

To the Right Worshipfull Sr: John Thorold of Marston in the County of Sincolne Baronet

This plate is humbly dedicated [...]

[Page] [Page 35] where the Hawk and Game is always in sight: For you are to make her to the Pheasant, and such like sort of Fowl that always frequent Woods, Coverts, and the like obscure places, which hinder your sight that should be your guide in the flight. And for the better effecting this, you must be ve­ry careful what place you first enter her in, to the end she may be well guarded and kept from ta­king any dislike or offence at the Dogs, which if she do at the first entrance, it will be difficult to 10 bring her to endure them again: For the former familiarity betwixt her and the Dogs was bred in the Field, where she might see them before they came at her, and were prevented by the Falcon­ers runing hastily into her, to occasion any such fright. Therefore to prevent any such ill quality at the first, she must be better manned, followed, and governed than in the Field; so that if you would have her made a perfect Hawk, and to be bold and venturous in thick Woods with the 20 Falconer, the Dogs and the Game, you must make good choice of the Time, Place, and Dogs.

For the Time, it should be early in the Year, viz. about January, February, or March, which is before the Approach of the Leaf; but the best Months for Pheasant Hawking, are November, December, and January, after which time you must be pre­paring her for the Mew, that she may be early Mewed, to Fly at the Field the next Season for 30 Partridge.

Having made good choise of the place to Fly your Hawk in, and that you have let her go un­to her Flight; you must be sure to command your Dogs behind you, until you have found her; and if she hath killed the Game, it is suffici­ent, if not, but that you find her on the Ground out of an eagerness of the Sport (as many will be at first entrance) if there be any Tree that she may well see from it, set her thereon, otherwise 40 keep her upon your Fist, and beat for it again; then if she Fly and kill it, keep back the Dogs until you have found her; and suffer her to Plume, and take her pleasure for a while, then call in your Dogs gently, and walk about her, encou­raging her with your Voice, that she may be ac­quainted with the Noise; and when you see it convenient stoop to it on your Knees, and ren­ding the Chaps give her Blood in the Throat, which will much please her. Also pare away the hard 50 Brain-pan from the rest, and give her the Head in her Foot to eat, the Ground hiding from her the Body, and having your Dogs close by (which must be in great Command), when she has done, and begins to look about her, then throw the Phea­sant amongst them that she may (together with some words of Rebuke from you) make them give way with fear unto her; but let them be in her sight, and having sufficiently taken her Pleasure, take the Pheasant gently from her, leav­ing 60 the Head in her Foot, and let her eat it on the Ground, where the Quarry lay, only reser­ving a little to take her to your Fist withal; then put on her Hood, and Reward her according to the former Directions, which will much win her Love to you. And according to these Directions, with a good Keeper, fair flying, and two or three staunch Spaniels, in a short time she will be brought to good perfection.

For the emboldning your Hawk to make her take a Pheasant from the Perch with courage observe these Directions: Before you flee her provide a dead Pheasant, or one alive which is best, which take along with you into the Wood, and when you are disposed to call your Hawk for her Supper, and as she is drawing and at­tending after you for the same (having a conve­nient Pole ready for that purpose) call your Spa­niels about you to make them Bay, and suddenly breaking the Neck of the Pheasant, lift it upon a Bough that the Hawk may have sight thereof, and with your voice calling and incouraging her to come in to seize it; and if she pulls it down, be sure that you so rebuke the Dogs, and keep them at command, that at her descending they give her way; and that she may plume, and take her pleasure thereon, which in a small time will so embolden her, that when she seeth a Pheasant take Perch, she will immediately seize it, and pull it down; nor will she be fearful of the Dogs; for when they are once managed and brought in­to good subjection, they will know their duty, and be fearful of transgressing, so that you may venture them if you were absent: But be sure you have no strange Dogs, for one may spoil your sport, drawing the rest into Errors, and cause them to hunt after any thing: Nor is it convenient to hunt with many Spaniels, for two or three Cou­ple are enough to range and beat about a large Wood, and to Perch a Pheasant.

For Reclaiming and Ordering an Eyess Hawk.

YOU must be provided with some conveni­ent cool Room that is Airy, with two wic­ker or glass Lights to let in the Air, and on the Floor for coolness strew fresh Sand, and place in the Room two or three great Turfs or Sods for her to set cool upon; you must also have two or three Perches lined, and one higher than another. When she is full summed, so that she can flee, then set a Pan of Water in the Room to bathe in, which must be shifted every two or three days; being not only very wholsom, but it will cause her to Mew or be full summed the sooner and better.

You must feed her with young Pigeons, Sheeps-hearts, and the like; and whilst she is young, her Meat should be cut in small Pellets, and be fed two or three times a day, according as you find her endew it, and put it over. When she is full summed, and flies about, you may give her Pige­ons, feeding her sometimes on your Fist, permitting her to gripe and kill them in your hand. You may also put a live Pigeon into the Room where she is kept, which will the better teach her how to foot and kill them; and that she may be taken off from that ill quality of hiding her Prey after she hath seized it, which is customary to all Eyesses, let her feed in your Presence; and to make her the more bold and acquainted with you, go into the Room every Morning to call her to your F [...]st, whistling and using some incouraging ways as is [Page 36] accustomary, and that you would have her ac­quainted with.

When she is full summed, and hath put forth all her Feathers, take her out of the Room, and furnish her with a Rufter-hood, as also with Bells, Jesses and Bewets: And to make her indure her Hood, put a Brayle, that is, a piece of Leather slit upon one of her Wings to tye it up, and then spout Water out of your mouth to wet her, and put her Hood on and off several times, which will 10 teach her to take it gently. And to make her indure the Hood at first, you must have a Rufter­hood, with which often hood and unhood her, stroak­ing her Head gently with your Hand, until she will abide it; then in the Evening by Candle-light unseal her, giving her something to tyre upon, handling and stroaking her Feathers, as also hood­ing and unhooding her.

When your Eyess is well won to the Hood, and to the Fist, (which custom will soon bring her to)20 let her kill Birds or Pigeons on your Fist; then for four or five days, or longer, (as occasion re­quires) call her until she will come to you at some distance; then take a live Pigeon tied by the foot with a Creance, which you must stir until she Bates at it, and seizeth it; but this must be at a small distance, lest the Pigeons strugling should discourage her, until she is well entred; therefore in such case you should assist her, and let her Plume and foot it, suffering her to feed thereon,30 whistling and incouraging her: Then hood her, and let her plume and tyre a little. The day fol­lowing call her to your Fist, shewing her a live Pigeon so near, that she may reach it; then cast it out before her, and let her flee and seize it, giving her a Reward. Again, throw out a Chicken before her, and if she seize it, reward her well; and by this means using her to great Trains, she will get courage, and will not fly away with them and hide them as if trained to small Birds. But this 40 is only for a Sparrow-hawk; for a Goshawk must have no live thing given her in her Foot, from the time of her first entring, until she hath killed something by her own strength: But if a Goshawk be so cowardly as not to seize it, then take a live Partridge, make a hole in the Ground, and put the Partridge therein, covering it with a Slat or thin Board, and tye a String to it of about twen­ty Yards long, which you must hold in your hand to draw away as occasion requires; then 50 makes as if you uncoupled your Spaniels to hunt, and put up the Game, and carry her unhooded; and when you perceive that she looketh towards the place where the Train is, then draw off the Slat or Board, and cause the Train to spring as if by the Spaniels; and if she take it, let her feed there­on her fill on the Ground: And this course do se­veral times to make her perfect therein.60

CHAP. XI.
The SPARROW-HAWK.

THis Hawk is much of the nature and re­semblance of the Goshawk, but not of the bigness, and she requires the same feeding, and maketh the same flights. It is a Hawk common in these European Parts, and those are best e­steemed that are bred in cold, barren, and high places, where there is little or no Game, for there­by they are taught to be more laborious and in­dustrious. The only reason I suppose why they are of so little esteem, is their commonness and cheapness, for they are of great use and pleasure; and he that hath once experienced a well Reclaim­ed Sparrow-Hawk will hardly be without one.

Their Game is young Pratridges, but their excellency is for Magpies, Black-Birds and the like small Birds.

There are several Sorts of Sparrow-Hawks, and of different Plumes, just as there are of Goshawks, which is occasioned through the diversity of Regi­ons, and Countries where they Breed, the larger are in most esteem, and want nothing but strength to match their Courage.

The Marks of a good and Beautiful Sparrow-Hawk are these, the Head little, the Beak thick, the Legs short and Fattish, the Pounces sharp and long, and of a sad Maile, the Eyes full, the Circle about the Ball of the Eyes of a colour betwixt white and green, and the Neck Long and Thick.

I would advise all young Beginners in Falconry, to begin their practice on this Hawk, for thereby they may learn to manage others, especially the Goshawk.

The Sparrow-Hawk should not be Fled in the Morning, unless she be prepared over Night with a short and clean Supper, and you should always have in a Box about you Fresh Butter, mixt with a little Saffron and Sugar-Candy to give her now and then with her Meat, which she will eat with great delight; and this will keep her Head always loose, and in good Temper; and it will also prevent the Cray, and keep her proud and full of Spi­rit.

They Mew every year in April, May, and June.

SParrow-Hawks that are newly taken and will not Feed, rub their Feet with warm Flesh, or with a live Bird, and put it to her Beak, and if she Seize it, 'tis a sign she will Feed, and then tear off the Skin and Feathers, and put it to her Beak.

It is best to enter the Sparrow-Hawk in some Champain Country, far from Woods; and let her be unhooded when the Spaniels are uncoupled; then if the Patridge Spring near you, and she Bate, let her go, and if she kill, Reward her on the Ground with the Head, Brains, Neck, and Breast [Page] [Page]

Maning Hawks.

To the Honorable Sr Richard Menman of Caswell in Oxfordshire Bart. Created (by Letters Patents to comence, after the death of [...] Rt. Honble. (Phillip now Ld. Vis Menman) Baron Menman of Kilmainham in ye County of Dublin▪ in ye Kingdome of Ireland▪ as also Vist Menman of Tuam. in ye County of Gallway, in the said Kingdome. [...]

This Plate is humbly dedicated by Richard Blome.

F Barb [...]r de [...]in: A. Soly [...]

[Page 37] of the Partridge; then when she hath [...]ed take it away, and get on Horse-Back a pretty distance from her, whistle and call her; and if she come, Reward her well. And above all things have a great care that she fail not at her first Flight, which should be at larg Partridges called Stabtayls; lest always after she should turn Tail, when she Files at strong ones.

There are several names or distinctions of Par­tridges; the first, when newly hatched are called 10 White-heads, the second Names are Chiek-tayls, the third Stubtayls, the fourth Ru [...]ntay [...]s, and then they are full summed and hard set.

When you enter your Sparrow-Hawk, hold your hand alost; that she may the better watch both the Spaniels and Prey: you must give her some small Reward after every Flight, especially if she kill; and if at first entring she miss, be sure to have some young Partridge or Bird in your Bag, for her to kill; after she is well entred and 20 nousled, then hold down your Fist, whereas formerly you held it up. You should likewise be sure to let your Spaniels Range near together, and on your Right Hand, that she may the bet­ter discern her Game, and Flee to the most ad­vantage; for which purpose you should be as near the Dogs as possible, and carry your Hand low, that she may not bear at the Game before they Spring. He that is not quick of sight, and nim­ble of Hand with his Sparrow Hawk, shall soon 30 Spoil her, but with Care and due Attendance, there are few Hawks of more pleasure, for you may Flee her at such times of the Year, as you can't the Goshawk: Her keeping ought to be deli­cate, and in regard she is so small and weak, be sure to keep her High and Lusty; yet with due Regard to the preparation of her Stomack, be­fore you take the Field with her. She will kill according to the several Seasons, Diversity of Game. She generally delights to Flee close to the Ground,40 and will stoutly attack the Lap-Wing, Ring-Dove, Jay, Mag-Pye, Black-Bird, and the like Game, and she may be made to hold out all the Sum­met.

You should Flee her from the Hood, and not to let her spend her little strength, and disorder her self by unruly Bateing, which happens by be­ing carried Bare.

If you Flee her in the Morning, prepare her accordingly in her preceeding Supper, with wea­thering 50 in the Morning, that she may come sharp set.

To take Sparrow-Hawks.

IN regard of the use and and pleasure, together with the commonness of the Sparrow-Hawk, I hold it not amiss to give these Directions for the taking them. You should choose out some level 60 piece of Ground, with a good Covert or Thicket near it, where you may be concealed, there fix about half a Dozen Sticks, about the bigness of a Mans Arm, and about six Foot long, on each side three, to these Sticks must be fastned certain Nets, made of very Fine Green Thread, and to them a Cord, which may reach to the Man that lieth concealed in some Bush [...] on the plain must be set several small Birds, especially Cha­finches, which sort of Bird: the Sparrow-Hawks much delight to Feed upon, and she will not fail to Flee with great Eagerness into the Net, think­ing to Seize the Bird, and doth become ensna­red. In Winter they are often found Pearching on some Tree in Hedg-rows near High-Ways.

CHAP. XII.
Rules for Reclaiming the Haggard-Faulcon, with Instruction to en­ter her to the Lure; which Di­rections will serve for all Long Winged Hawks, Except the Mer­lin.

HAving one of these Falcons, set her down and let her rest quietly the first Night, in, some convenient place, in her Rufter-Hood; then the next Morning Early, take her up easily on your Fist, and carry her all [...]ay up and down thereon, gently stroaking her with a Feather un­til you find her Gentle and Bold, so as not to start when she is touched, and some times with your Hand; and when you find her not Coy, take off her Hood being alone, putting it on pre­fently again; and this do till she will Feed; giving her but a little at a time, and do not pull her. Hood off, or put it on without giving her a bit or two, useing your Voice, which will gain her love, for by this means when she is▪ Reclaimed; she will know when she shall be Fed, and when she will Feed Boldly. The next thing is to teach her to jump from the Pearch to your Fist, which is thus done: Let her stand on a Pearch about Breast high, so that they take no Offence, or Fright, until they are acquainted therewith (for the first handling or using of a Hawk, is the ma­king or marring her; and an ill Habit she is not ea­sily reclaimed of;) then unstrike her Hood, and Lure her, using your voice, but be sure you do not affright or distast her, that thereby she may Bate from you; therefore be sure unstrike her Hood, and encourage her with some Food to come to you. Now for the better bringing her to sub­jection, it is good to keep her with a sharp Appe­tite, for unless that be rightly observed, all the rest is to little purpose.

When you find by this means that she will freely come to your Fist, and be not apt to take offence, you may let her set unhooded, keeping by her to hinder her gazing about by your di­verting her, and often feeding her with a Bit or two; and when she is brought to this pass, and will boldly receive your Bits, hearken to your voice, and jump to your Fist, then you may set her to the Lure.

When you find she will readily come to your [Page 38] Lure, vvhich must be garnish't vvith Meat in the Creance, put a young Pigeon to the Lure, and therevvith Lure her; and vvhen she hath killed it, and eaten the Head, take her up gently vvith a Bit of Meat, and put on her Hood; then un­strike her Hood and Lure her to the Pelt, using this tvvice or thrice; but if you do it often, she vvill be very unvvilling to part vvith the Pelt, and by consequence provoke her to carry, which fault is more accustomary, and worse in a Field than 10 River Hawks. You must have a great care that you Lure her not too far till her Stomach be per­fect, else she may find out something by the way more pleasing to her, which will occasion her stay, and prove of ill Consequence in her obey­ing you.

Also observe that in the time of her Making (whilst she is on the Ground, Pluming or Feed­ing) you walk about her, often Feeding her with your Hand, and useing your Voice, which will 20 much win upon her, especially if you give her a live Pigeon between the Falconer and the Lure, in a long Creance, that she may kill it near you, and in such manner, that she may truss it over your Head; and by this means, when you come to her from some Distance, she will not be afraid, but delight to come to you; and the neglect of this will make her timerous, so that sometimes she will not only leave her Prey, but forsake you. And there are some Hawks, that will not be ta­ken 30 up without striking or Rapeing in the Creance, which without such a Devise must be the loss of the Hawk, so that the Falconer ought to be ve­ry careful to Reclaim her from such Vices in her first Making.

To make your Falcon (or indeed any other Long Winged Hawk) a right and perfect Flyer, these following Directions should be observed.

When you have Fed her on the Lure, so that she knoweth it, then begin to Lure her in the 40 Creance; and when she will come nimbly and rea­dily thereto, then Flee her loose; and when she will come nimbly loose, then give her Trayns between the Man and Lure, which is thus to be done; Let your Falconer, or he that holds the Hawk, go at some distance one from the other, (but he that Lures her, must be up the Wind) and when he that carries the Hawk, has drawn her Hood, then begin Lureing, and she (being ac­quainted with your Voice) will make up to you.50 Then having a Pigeon ready sealed, or a Feather put through her Eye-Lids, to make her look up­wards; and by this means in three or four times you may venture to stoop the Lure upon her, and let her fly a turn or two over your Head; and then have a Pigeon ready sealed to give her, with a short pair of Creances to, the Pigeons Leg, that if in case your Hawk should be shy, you may hold it, that she can't carry it away.

If your Hawk prove gidy Headed to go at 60 Check, and carry her Game with an unwillingness, to let you come in to her, then load her with heavy Bells, and Cope her Beak above and be­low, to the very Quick; and Sear the Point of her Beak, with a hot Iron till the Blood comes, and this will hinder her from eating that which she gets her self; So that by Degrees she will be fond of your coming in to help her, to meat which you must always shew her, as you come in unto her in your Hand; and in a little time this will Reclaim her of that Roaveing Kytish-trick, of carrying away the Quarry, and make her as aforesaid very fond of you, if duly observed; For when she finds she can't kill of her self through the weightiness of her Bells, nor carry it to eat by reason of her Coping and Searing, she will be willing to come to you. Then having her Sto­mach sharp set, after a due weathering of about three hours, she being sometime without her Hood, and Water set in a large Pan to see if she will bathe; and if so, then she must continue until she hath dried her self; Then ride with her on your Fist into the Field, and strike her Hood, whistling softly to provoke her to fly, and doubt­less she will make some motions either to Bate, flap with her Flags and Sails, or advance her self on your Fist, which Motions suffer her to use un­til she either rouse her self, or mute, and when she hath done either of them unhood her, and let her flee with her Head to the wind, that she may the better get up on the Wing, and she will then na­turally climb upwards, fleeing round; and when she hath made two or three turns, whoop to her, and when you find her coming in and near you (but not before) cast out your Train into the wind, and if she stoop to it, reward her well with some Bits of clean and sweet Meat.

When your Hawk is perfectly Reclaimed, and throughly made by gentle and fair usage, you may adventure to flee her every day, provided you feed her accordingly: For if you flee upon Rest you shall never have a good Hawk, nor make a good flight; for Rest filleth them with glut, fat and ill humours, which are purged and wrought out by Exercise. Whilst they continue wild they cease not to get their Prey, come what Weather will, fair or foul, Winter or Summer; and certainly it is most natural for them to be so used by us: Howbeit we must observe a due regard to the state and condition in which they are, and that much of their Natures are altered whilst they remain under subjection.

You must be careful to observe the Nature and Disposition of your Hawk at the time of her Luring and Making, and be sure you give her no great scope to fly high or be wild; but hold her down, and near you, in case you find her high minded. Contrariwise some Hawks are so lazy, or fond of their Keeper, that they care not much to stir from him were a Partridge sprung up near her: such Hawks must be quick­ned by setting a good edge on their Stomach, and training them up by little and little; for the dullest of them are capable of Preying for them­selves when Wild, and assuredly by Art and Ob­servation they may be brought to do at least as much for us; They want neither Mettle nor Strength, the only thing is how to set them to work. Those that are dull and lazy ought to be deprived of the assistance of other Hawks, which will be a good way to enforce them to work for themselves; and if they do not yet give you content, do not abridge them of their Reward, but try them further, and by degrees they may [Page 39] be brought to know their own strength.

When your Falcon is become so familiar and gentle as to sit bare-faced in an Evening amongst Company, then and not before may you adven­ture to give her a Stone or two over hand, which you may do every other Night until you find her Stomach good, and then you may proffer her Castings, which she will not refuse; but have a great care not to distast her, but let her have it with her own Will and liking, lest she take an 10 aversion to it, as some do through their Keepers Indiscretion, and by no means let her Castings be too big.

If you should give her Castings before her Sto­mach is well prepared by the Stones, it would signifie nothing; for they are as it were the Key of the Work, that the Grease and Glut may be stirred and dissolved, so as to be fitted to pass away in her Mewts downwards, or in her Ca­stings upwards.20

The best time of giving Stones is doubtless at Night, until she be throughly clean, and then in the Morning, but not until she hath put away her Supper from above; half a dozen at a time are sufficient, and to do well they should be given above the Hand; but for that every one hath not a ready skill, you may Cast her, and give them so without danger, if it be carefully done. This course must be continued until you give her Plumage in her Luring and Training; 30 and then must you add the bending of the Wing, being the short Feathers of the Pinion, with as much clean wa [...]ht Flannel as will make a rea­sonable Casting: and remember in using Stones and Casting to observe this old Rhime,

Washt Meat and Stones will c [...]use a Hawk to fly;
Long Fasting and great Casting will cause a Hawk to die.40

But I shall forbear any more at present con­cerning Stones and Casting, it being more proper in the Chapter relating to the Diseases and Cures of Hawks.

In Reclaiming the LANNER and LAN­NERET, be sure to make them well acquaint­ed with the Lure, which should be garnisht with hard washt Meat, and let her take the greatest part of her Reward in Bits from your hand, and 50 be careful to restrain her from dragging or car­rying any thing away from you, which ill qua­lity she is much subject unto more than any o­ther Hawk: For what else relates to the Re­claiming and Manning of the Lanner, is the same as for the Falcon.

When your Hawk is perfect at the Lure, then spring her up a live Pigeon as she comes in unto you betwixt the Man and the Lure, remembring to tye a long Creance at the Pigeons Feet that 60 she may not flee from you, but that the Hawk may Truss her if possible over your Head, or very near you, lest if she kill it at a distance, and take some offence when you come towards her, she forsake both the Prey and you; there­fore be very careful to prevent her getting any such ill quality at first; for preventing of which be sure to gain her love by making her bold and acquainted with you, as already treated of, and do not deceive her in her Rewards. But if you should have such a Hawk, that notwithstanding all care (as some such there are) will be apt upon the least scope of liberty to turn▪ Tail and leave you: In such case you must somewhat abate her Pride, with respect to the Season of the Year and the Weather; which done, get a Quarry Hawk (that is, an old Well-entred and Reclaimed Hawk) and a couple of live Fowl, and let her see them flown once or twice, and at length when your Quarry Hawk is coming to kill it, be sure to stand under the Wind with her, and let her see the Fowl overthrown, and go into the Quarry; and if▪ she go in with courage, and seize it greedily, make in apace crossing the Fowls Wings, and suf­fer both the Hawks to take their pleasure a little while together; then take up the Quarry-Hawk gently with clean Meat, and let the young Hawk enjoy the Quarry to her self, keeping on your Knees to assist and please her. You must be very careful that she swallow no Pelf to glut her, but give her clean Meat for her Reward, and let her have her Supper, as she sits on the Fowl, clean washt and well drest.

If you can't have the conveniency of a Quarry-Hawk at first making your Young one, then be sure to cast her off with the most advantage you can of Wind and Stomach, and let her take not too much pains before you shew her the Fowl; and if she doth not make her first nor second stooping right so as to kill, then have in readiness a Tame Fowl as near the colour of the Wild as you can, and therewith take her down before she has too much toiled her self; for many Hawks will take discontent when they find they miss killing their Prey, and so leave their Ma­ster.

Further Rules for Reclaiming and Man­ning Hawks, and entring them to be acquainted with the Spaniels.

IN Reclaiming and Manning your Hawk re­member, that Haste makes Waste, and he that boasteth of his Art in making her ready to flee in a Month or sooner (as some such there are) I hold him very indiscreet, and little understands the nature and conditions of her; for it is im­possible to bring her to perfection but by de­grees, as first he must abate her Flesh, and if then you offer to Flee her before she is in her Pride and lusty again, she is for ever spoiled; besides she must have some teaching to come as well go, and she must be acquainted not only with the Dogs in general, but with those in par­ticular that are to be used about her.

He that offereth to Flee her whilst she is poor and low, shall never have her free from Diseases, nor can he receive any content in her, as being not able to make a good flight; and to Flee her before she is acquainted with the Dogs, as well as her Keeper, may go whistle after her, and not be Master of her in haste.

[Page 40] It hath been already said, That whilst you endeavour to Reclaim your Hawk, you should divide one Meals Meat into three parts, and to seed her the oftner; and now when she is Re­claimed, you must increase her Meals somewhat every day. You are to have a great care that during the time of Reclaiming she doth not soar up too high, and that she be throughly En­seamed before you Flee any Fowl with her, be she Eyish, Brancher, Ramage, or Mewed-Hawk, lest 10 peradventure she soar out of sight and be lost. Also observe, that during the time your Hawks Feet continue blackish and rough, she is full of Grease and Glut; for as she Enseameth her Feet will become yellow and smooth, and when they are very yellow and smooth, she is perfectly En­seamed: But this is better known by her Castings and Stones, especially after any laborious flight, when her Castings and Stones will be greasy and slimy, and her Mewts will be soul and dis­coloured.20

In teaching your Hawk to Flee to the Field, it is good to have other Falconers to assist you with their Hawks, and to do well the Hawks should be tyed to the ground to prevent their taking Wing before their time. Nor do not bring her into the Field to Flee until she is well acquainted with the Spaniels, and the better to effect the same observe these Directions. Feed her always in the midst of the Dogs, and when she is bold 30 ever and anon throw a Pigeon in a short Creance amongst the thickest of the Dogs, suffering her to Quarry amongst them and to Plume for a while; then take her up to your Fist with some Stump, and soon after cast out the Pigeon again and again, until you find she is bold and ventures amongst them, and with your Whip lash the Dogs, now and then crying, Ware Hawk, ware, which will much encourage her; and when she is come to this pass you may venture to Flee her.40 And for the preventing these ill qualities that Hawks are subject unto, at first train her up well, and for the effecting of which observe these Di­rections: Provide three or four hand Partridges, if possible, or for want thereof live Pigeons, and have the assistance of a Man or two, with one or two Couple of Staunch Spaniels, choose a plain large Field in which there is not above two or three Bushes; let one of the Men take the Dogs with him, and beat the Bush or Brake, making 50 a noise to the Dogs that the Hawk may see, hear and observe it well; then let him dexterously throw off the Partridge or Pigeon, so as she may suppose it to have sprung out of the Bush, your self holding the Hawk to the most advan­tage; and at the time of throwing off the Par­tridge or Pigeon, cry Gaze ho, which using fre­quently will make her observe her Game and opportunity. By this Artifice there is no doubt but that she will go off with Mettle, especially 60 if you bring her to a right sharp Stomach. You must be vigilant and quick to make in after her, that she may receive no fright by the coming in of the Dogs, or the like; and your Spaniels be­ing got near about her, reach her to break the Head in her Foot, and to eat it on the ground; and when she hath made an end thereof, and begins to look about her, be provided with the Wing of a Pigeon, and let her jump to your Fist, and feed thereon.

For her Supper, you should prepare good fresh Meat of Pigeons or other Feathered Fowl, which must be well and clean drest. This course should be observed with four or five Partridges in seve­ral Afternoons, with some advantage to your Hawk in her going off; but every day less and less, that she groweth not lazy; for should you at the first hand use her to kill whatever she flies at with ease, and at the Sowce, she will expect to be so treated, and perhaps refuse to fly after any that are sprung at a distance from her, but cast her Regards another way, as being lazy.

Some Hawks at first entrance, if they fly a Partridge hard to the Covert, and take it not at the first flight, will set on the Ground losing the advantage of getting upon some Stand, whereby she will never see the Partridge again at the Re­trieve. This for a short Winged Hawk; but if for a long Winged one, and that she fall to the Ground, then let the Falconer shew her the Pi­geon and Lure to make her take to her Wings, and then call the Spaniels to a Retrieve. Now to prevent this Jadish trick, make into her with the Dogs, having first called them off: And for a short winged Hawk shew her some Meat, and take her to your Fist, or make her take her stand in a Tree.

Rules to Reclaim Hawks brought from the Cage, and how to Hood them.

WHen you get any Hawk that is brought from the Cage, you must proceed with her in a different way from the former; for she must be Reclaimed in this sort. Give her at least three weeks carriage in her Rufter-hood, always stroaking and playing with her, at first with a Feather, and then with your hand very gently. You must feed her with clean wash't Meat (which must be warm, and for the most part feathered Meat) all the time, which will bring her the soon­er to a good Stomach, and to be well pleased and gentle, which you may discern by her listining to your voice, by her chirping, her eager feeding, or the like, (this to be done within three or four days after your first taking her to the Fist, by which means she will thrive much the better, and come sooner to a Stomach;) then wash her all o­ver with water and pepper prepared for that pur­pose some Evening, or which is better, smoak her with Tobacco when she is empty.

Having thus prepared her, and being provided with another Hood, take off her Rufter-hood, and as she groweth dry put on the Hood, and give her a Bit or two of Meat to please and refresh her. And thus you may continue for some hours hooding and unhooding her, Rewarding her with the best Meat you can get, until she is throughly dry, and then set her down bare-faced, permitting her to take two or three hours rest in some warm place, and on a dry Perch, to prevent colds and the cramp, which at such times they are subject unto: Then when you come next unto her, let [Page 41] your voice give her notice of your approach, that she be not surprized with fear or distast, and let her see you come with Meat, but give her none until she is hooded; and use her so for some time, that you may bring her to a liking of her Hood, which she will soon do when she finds that the putting it on ushers in Meat. All this while di­vide one meals Meat into three, feeding her oft­ner; and be sure in this interval to observe her Nature and Temper, and accordingly guide your 10 self: For it is not a Work of less than a large Vo­lume to give particular Directions for the tem­peratures, &c. of every sort of Hawk. These which are here laid down, with your own Rea­son and particular Experience, may suffice.

Now for as much as I am fallen on this Dis­course of Hooding, I hold it not amiss once for all to give you this Direction and Caveat; you ought to be exceeding careful in Reclaiming her to take her Hood. You have already laid down 20 some Directions how to preserve her from this ill vice, it will not be amiss to give you one how to remedy it, although she were almost quite spoiled through ill usuage and bobbing. You must be provided with a Hood of some light colour, as Green, Red, or Yellow, which hang on your little Finger of the same Hand whereon you carry your Hawk, and let it hang so that it may be al­ways in her sight, especially at such times as you seed her. This do for about a Week, or un­til 30 you find her acquainted with it so well as to search through the Hood for the Meat. If you interpose it when she doth this boldly, you may then sometimes essay to bear a little hard with the Hood against her Head, by which means she will in about a Month come to Hood and Vnhood her self, as often as you please. And whereas before you used to restrain her from eating, let her now eat moderately when she is Hooded, and never but then; nor should you take off her 40 Hood until feeding time: And remember you use not this course with any Hawk until her Stomach be perfectly come to her, if it be a Hawk taken out of the Mew, And of all others, you ought to be most careful, as to this point, in handling your Goshawk, for she is (as already said) very nice and coy, and apt to take offence, and withal hard to be reconciled and reclaimed, but by degrees and by gentle and soft usage you may overcome the worst natured Hawk that is.50

To help a Hawk that is coy and fearful.

IN case your Hawk is coy and fearful, so as not to indure the sight or noise of Strangers, Pas­sengers, Horses, or the like, you ought to consi­der from whence this happens, which doubtless is from her Keepers not rightly Reclaiming her: For although all Hawks do this by Nature, yet by Art they are brought to leave it; and it is 60 easier to Reclaim two Casts of young wild Hawks than one manned Hawk that hath been ill handled in her first making.

Before you begin to practise on such a Hawk, carry her a day or two upon your Fist, and when through watching and manning, she hath a sharp Stomach, and withal is somewhat gentle, repair to some place where there is a great resort of Peo­ple, as at a Bowling-Green, or the like; then put her into a pair of Creances, set her on a Man's Fist, and let her jump to a Catch, and there pass away the time in this manner with her every day as oft as you can for some Weeks, now and then practising it at the end of some great Town on a Market-day where People pass, permitting her to sport and play on the Catch: And by often practising this way, you may bring her off from that ill quality whereunto she was addicted through the fault of her former Keeper.

There are some Hawks that will not flee with others, but draw backwards: There are also o­thers that Bind with every Hawk, and so flee for the purpose: And others again do hate either to flee or set with any others, which is occasion­ed either through fear, or for want of love to them. For the helping this ill quality, get a gen­tle Lanner, being an old and true made Hawk, which set on the same Perch with the other Hawk by day, but at a good distance, then give each a bit of Meat as you pass by them, and so by degrees set them a little nearer together, and when you find it convenient, put some Meat between them that both may seed together. If your Hawk makes any motion to Crab with the Lanner, gorge her up at Night with good Meat, and set her on a Perch abroad in the cold, (pro­vided she be in good plight, and able to indure it) and let her set their three or four hours, and hold the Lanner near the Fire; then bring in the other Hawk hooded, and hold her close to the Lanner, and when she finds the comfortable heat receiv­ed from her she vvill dravv nearer and nearer un­to her. Let them thus stand together until she seem very desirous to Jouk, then unhood her gent­ly, and let them both stand close together all Night, and in the Morning set them on the Perch near together, but not to reach; and continue to do in the Evening as aforesaid: And about the fourth or fifth Night you may adventure to set them both out in the cold on the same Perch, so as they may come to each other for vvarmness. And vvhen she is thus brought to love Company, you may unhood them, Feed, Perch, and Lure them to­gether.

CHAP. XIII.
How to Enseame a Faulcon with her Castings and Scowrings.

WHen your Hawk is vvell in Blood, and vvell Quarred, let her flee vvith other Hawks, but Reward her vvell at the beginning, suffering her to feed vvell on the Quarry, vvhich vvill so encourage her that she vvill have no mind to go to the Check.

When you feed her, Call and Lure her (as if to the Lure) and proffer her Water every Day and every Night; give her Castings according as she endeweth.

[Page 42] In the Evening by Candle-light, amongst Com­pany take off her Hood; and set her on the Perch with a Light by her.

You should make your Lure to imitate, or counterfeit the Game you design your Hawk for; If for a Gerfalcon (whose Game is the Hern) then your Lure should be Garnish't with a Herns Wings; if for a Falcon, a Lanner, or other long Winged Hawks, then tye a Partridges Wings to the Lure; and if for a Goshawk, then those of a 10 Partridge, or Pheasant.

If you would make your Goshawk for the Phea­sant, Feed her always on the Ground, or in some thick place where she must encounter the Pheasant at Perch; and first enter her at a young Pheasant, and every time call her from Tree to Tree, that she may learn to take her Stands.

You should Reward her upon the Lure, with what Fowl she kills, to make her the more in love with it.20

If you would have your Hawk clean and sound, she should have Castings every Night, until she is made clean; also Tireing or Plumage at Night is very good, provided she hath not been hard Flown.

You may Flee your Falcon twice a day at the River (if the Season be good) and three or four Flights at the Field.

You should Feed your Hawk until it is fit­ting to give her Plumage; and for your doing the 30 same, observe these Directions. If her Mewts are white, and the black thereof very black, and not mixt with another Colour; and if she be sharp set, and Plumes eagerly, you may give her Ca­stings, either of the small Feathers of a Hens Pinion, or for want of any other of a Coneys or Hares Foot.

You should make the place under the Perch clean, to see if the Mewts be full of Streaks, or Fellenders, or Slimy; for if so, the abovesaid Casting must be used three or four Nights toge­ther; 40 but if you find the Feathers, or Casting sweet, or lapt round, and the Water within it clean, like Spring-Water; then give her Pigeons or such like good wash't Meat.

CHAP. XIV.
Rules for Bathing a Hawk.50

FOr Bathing your Hawk 'tis good to offer her Water once a Week in the Winter, and twice, or thrice a Week in the Summer; but use no force to provoke her to Bath, for a young Hawk that is Sound and Strong, doth not care for it, but those that are Old and subject to infirmi­ties delight therein, as being a great refreshment 60 to them, creating a sharp Appetite; but be sure give no wash't Meat in the Days of Bathing, nei­ther go abroad with her; and after Bathing give her a Bit or two of hot Meat unwash't.

If the Weather be Fair and Temperate, let her dry her self abroad, otherwise help Nature with Art, and never let her Bath in Forsty Weather. If she refuseth to Bath in a Bason (as some will) then carry her to some small Brook, and suffer her to stand up to her Thighs; and in the time of her Bathing she must be Vnhooded, to prune and pick her self.

CHAP. XV.
To make a Hawk Bold and Har­dy, &c.

IF you would have your Hawk Bold and Har­dy, keep her oft times all Day on your Fist, and feed her early in the Morning, with the Flesh of some Foul; then set her abroad in the Sun, with Water before her, to Bath and Bowz her self as oft as she pleaseth, (for if a Hawk hath any Infirmity, Bowzing will soon Cure, or Kill her); and when you have so done, take her up and carry her on your Fist all Day; and at Night set a lighted Candle before her, to burn till Day break, and if you perceive she hath been well Manned, and is fully Enseamed, you may ad­venture to Flee her, observing the aforesaid Dire­ctions.

If she Kill, give her a good Gorge, and in case she miss, you must have some sweet Pelt to en­courage her; and thus must you Flee her daily, remembring to observe not to bring her too low through overmuch Flying.

If you would have your Hawk love her Prey, and be very eager upon it, you need only bring her with a good Sharp Stomack.

To make your Hawk Disgorge her self.

IN Case your Hawk be full Gorged, and yet on some occasion you have a desire to Flee her, take three or four Corns of Wheat, which put into a small piece of Flesh, and give her; and it will forthwith cause her to Disgorge, and be ready provided with a little good Hot Meat to givether; and then you may Flee her without Danger.

Or if you desire to Flee her in the Morning, Feed her the Night before with good warm Meat, well wash't in Vrine, the Water being well wrung out, which will set a sharp Edge on her Stomach, and raise her Courage.

To Remedy a Hawks ill Quality, of Fleeing to a Tree, and stand and Gorge.

IF your Hawk hath got an ill Quality of Flee­ing to a Tree, as soon as she hath killed her Prey, and there Gorge and eat it (as some will do.) To Remedy this, let her be short Couped as before directed; then take a Leather of the Fashion of a Bewet, which put on either of her Legs, upon one of her hinder Tallons, and then button it on to her Bewet, whereon her Bell [Page] [Page]

HERNE HAWKING

To the Rt. i: Honourable William Pierrepont Earle of Kingston upon Hull, Viscount Newarke Vpon Trent, Baron of Holme-Pierrepont Manvers and Herris &c:

The plate is humbly Didicated by Ric: Blome

[Page 43] hangs, which will so hold up her Tallon, as to hinder her gripeing; and consequently she can't sit on a Bough to hold a Bird, and to feed thereon, which will force her to forsake the Tree; and thus doing five or six times, she will leave this ill Quality.

CHAP. XVI.10
Directions for Feeding your Hawks.

FEed not with two Sorts of Meat at one time, for that Breeds ill Humours, as also Worms; it will also fill her with Wind, and make her very unhealthful. Also forbear to Feed her with Old Stale Meat, being hard to Endew, breeding Infir­mities:20 The Flesh of a Brood Hen is very naught, as also of all Fowl that live on Frogs, Fish, or the like: so is the Flesh of Ravenous Birds, as the Kyte, Pattock, Crow, Raven, &c. It is good to change her Meat, and sometimes to give her the Flesh of Coneys or Hares (but not the Brains, nor any of the Hair, for that breeds Worms.) Mutton is good Food for Gerfaulcons; but the Flesh of a Lamb and Kid is good when your Hawk is low and poor. Dogs Flesh is very 30 good and sound Food, for all Hawks of a hot Nature; but not whilst they are Fleeing. Cats Flesh is good in the Mew. The Flesh of small Birds, or indeed any that feed on Seeds is very good; but do not give them much, nor often, unless at such times as your Hawk hath been abroad in the Cold all Night; for such Birds are by Nature very hot, and will make your Hawk very stately, and hard to be Reclaimed from her 40 Pride and coyness. The Flesh of Pheasants, Partridges, Pigeons, and the like, is good, espe­cially if she be sick; but the Flesh of Chickens and Pullets is very good at all times, and never out of season.

CHAP. XVII.50
HERN HAWKING.

ABout the beginning of March Herns make their passage; and if you would have your Hawk for this Game (which is a most noble Flight) let them not fly longer at the River. For this Flight you ought to have a Cast of Hawks, and that they may be the better acquainted 60 together, and be assistant to one another, call a Cast of them to the Lure at once; but be care­ful that they Crab not together, which will en­danger one another in their Flight.

Your Hawk being clean scoured, and sharp set, you may enter her for the Game, by getting a live Hern, which tye in a Creance, or else disable its Wings that it can't fly, and setting her on the ground Vnhood her, and let her fly at the Hern; and if she seize it, make in apace to her succour, and let her plume and take blood there­on; then take the Heart and give it her on your Hawking-Glove; then rip up her Breast, suffering her to plume thereon until she is well gorged; then Hood her upon the Hern, suffering her to plume at pleasure; Then take her on your Fist, and let her tyre on the Foot or on the Pinion of the Hern: Then let the Faulconer take the Hern, cast it about his Head, and Lure her to come, not casting it out, but stay till she come to seise it in his Hand as he Lureth with it, and let her feed thereon. Thus in three or four times so doing, you will bring her to good perfection at this Flight.

For preserving your Hawk from the danger of the Herns Bill, place a Joynt of a hollow Cane on the upper part of their Bill.

Having well entred your Hawk, let loose a Hern in some fair Field without a Creance, or without Arming her; when she is up at a rea­sonable height, cast off your Hawk, and if she bind with the Hern and bring her down, then make in a pace to her help, thrusting the Herns Bill into the ground, and breaking her Wings and Legs, to the end the Hawk may with more pleasure plume and foot it, then Reward her with the Brains, Heart; &c. as before di­rected.

Having shewed you how to enter your Hawk as a Train-Hern, I shall now give some Instru­ctions how to Flee her at the Wild-Hern. When you have found one, get in as nigh as you can unto her, going under the Wind with your Hawks, which must be a Gerfaulcon or a Jerkin, with a Haggard slight Faulcon for your Driver; and having their Hoods loose in a readiness, so soon as the Hern is put up and got up upon her Wings, throw off your Driver, which doth make in unto the Hern, and causeth her to work into the Wind; the let go your Hawks that are to fly her, and when they have worked above the Hern, that they come through her, and by often doing it doth occasion her coming to Siege, then make all the haste you can to assist her by breaking her Legs and Wings, and thrusting her Bill into the ground: And for this flight you must always have a Dog that should be trained up to the Sport, whose business is to come in and kill the Hern.

But in case your Hawk doth fail to beat down the Hern, or doth give over the flight, then give her a Train-Hern or two more before you shew her another Wild one; then fly her with the Quarry that is well entred, and in good flying; for thereby she seeing the Quarry-Hawk flee at her, and bind with her, she will take fresh cou­rage and become bold, and when they have killed the Hern, Reward them both together whilst the Quarry is hot.

CHAP. XVIII.
BROOK HAWKING.

HAWKS for this Sport are the Gerfalcon and Jerkin, the Haggard Falcon and the Tassel Gentle. 10

In many places there are Ponds enclosed with Woods, Bushes, and the like obscurities, so that they are concealed from Passengers, and such places Ducks do much resort unto. Now for the Training up your Hawk to take them, observe these Directions.

Your Hawk being in all points ready to fly, be provided with two or three live Train-Ducks, and let there be a Man that must lie concealed in some Bush-by the Pond with them, so that 20 coming to the place, having your Hawk pre­pared for the sudden Flight, beat the Bush with your Pole where the Man lieth concealed with the Ducks, who must cast forth one of them, to the end the Hawk may think it was put up by you, and if with a Courage she takes it, Re­ward her well. And this is the way to train up up a Goshawk to catch a Fowl at Sowce.

Having trained your Hawk to this, you may boldly go with her to the Ponds where the Fowl 30 lies, and creeping close to the place raise them up by beating about with your Pole, and when any rise let go your Hawk from your Fist, and if she seize it let her take pleasure thereon, and Reward her well.

It is very necessary to have a Spaniel with you; for if the Hawk is well acquainted with the Sport, she will be so nimble at the Catch, that they will fall into the Water together, and by that means the Fowl may go to Plung, so that 40 then the Spaniel will be ready to do good Ser­vice, and not displease the Hawk.

A Flight for a Falcon to the River.

WHen your Hawk will fly, jump, and come in at your Lure, then she is fit to go to the River; and to manage your Flight observe these Directions: When you have found where 50 the Fowl lies, then go about a quarter of a Mile up in the Wind to the River side, and whistle off your Hawks, loosing their Hoods, and let them fly with their Heads in the Wind, for there must be a Cast of Hawks for this Flight. Then let the Falconers, or others that are at the sport, strike their Poles in the Water to cause the Hawks to come in unto you and own the River; and when they are got up into their places, then let one of the Falconers ride down to shew the 60 Fowl, and when the Hawks have made their stooping, and have ennued the Fowl, then go off from the River again; and when the Hawks have made good their places, then let one of the Falconers go below the Fowl, that is, down the sover; and the other that is above, let him come down and shew the Fowl again, and by that means the Fowl will be crost over Land, that the Hawks may make a fair stooping, and knocking the Fowl on the Land will occasion the killing it, which will Quarry your Hawks.

But if they should miss their Stooping, so as the Fowl may get to the River again, then your Hawks must go to their Wings to make good their flight; but if the Fowl should go to plung, then take down your Hawks, lest you should fly them too long, and the Faulconers with their Spears or Poles may endeavour to Spear or kill the Fowl, which take to Quarry the Hawks with.

If they kill not the Fowl at first stooping, give them respit to recover their place; and when they are at their place again and their Heads in, lay out the Fowl as before directed, and Reward them well if they kill.

You should do well to have a live Duck in your Hawking-Bag, that if they kill not the Fowl which is stooped (as oft-times it happens) than your Hawks being at their pitch and their Heads in, you may throw to your Hawks and Reward them; and by this means you shall always keep your Hawks in good life and blood, and to be Inwards.

To make a Hawk Inward of the River, when she Raketh out.

IF your Hawk can't recover the Fowl by rea­son of its breaking away at stretch, and gives it over and comes in again, then cast her out a Seeled Duck; and if she stoop it, or truss it, cross the Wings and let her plume and take her pleasure thereon, and Reward her therewith, and by this means she will learn to give over the Fowl that rakes out, and take back to the River a­gain.

To keep a Hawk high flying.

YOur Hawk being well made to the River, you should not fly her above two flights in the Evening, but feed her up although she kills not; and if she be a slately high flying Hawk, one flight in an Evening is sufficient; for often flying will bring her down, and make her fall of her stately pitch, and will become greedy of the Quarry.

When a good flying Hawk doth get up to a good place, you must continue her therein, Flee­ing with her upon narrow Waters and Rivulets, shuning broad Waters and such places that lie near Coverts, where a Fowl can hardly be land­ed without the assistance of Dogs, [...]nd where she can't see the Water under her, whic [...] are great Impediments, and will cause her to play the Kyte, and much abate her Gate, and quite spoil her high flying; therefore always keep her as high flying as possible; but be sure make her Inwards, that is, fond of the Lure, and to be in such love with it, as upon tossing it up she will presently come sowcing down upon it, which is no small honour to the Faulconer, to have her at such command. And if she chance to play the Kyte [Page]

Brook Hawking.

To the Worshipfull Gilbert Gerard Cossine of Brafferton hall in the North Rideing of york shire Esqr. Son and heyre of S.r Gilbert Gerard Knight and Baronet by Mary Daughter to the Right Reverend Father in God Iohn Cossine late Lord Bishop of Durham

This Plate is humbly Dedicated by Ric. Blome.

[Page] [Page 45] and be lazy, then throw her our either some Train-Duck, or dead Quarry, and Hood her up for about half an hour, then call her to the Lure and feed her.

Some are of Opinion that in such cases you should not Reward her at all, to the end she should not be encouraged to use such ill Tricks; but the former way is adjudged the best.

If your Hawk so soon as she hath stooped and endewed a Fowl, will take stand on a Tree or 10 Stump by the Rivers side, Reclaim her from this ill quality, by having in readiness two or three Men with live Trains, and that way which she sits or most bends, let them cast forth the Train-Duck, and if she kill it Reward her. And thus doing for three or four days, she will be broke of that ill quality.

To make a Hawk fond of the Lure.20

WHen your Hawk is well Quarred, and fleeth well to the River with a good pitch and a great Gate, it is requisite to make her fond of the Lure, and to take her down there­with, permitting her to kill a Duck or Pigeon tied thereto, after she hath made two or three stoop­ings.

The higher she fleeth, the more need there is to take her down.03

If it happen that a Fowl (being often stooped) will not rise again, but fall to diving (that is, plunging) contrive all the ways you can to kill it by Poles or Spears, and take down your Hawk with the Lure, and let her feed on the Train-Duck to please her self thereon, and this will make her become fond of the Lure. But if you take her down to a sweet Pelt, and Reward her well with a warm Pigeon, she will be as well pleased as if she had killed the Fowl. 40

In case she useth to rake out after Check, and lean out so far as not to come in again to the flight, neither the Luring, Whooping, nor Casting the Glove about your Head will do the business; for there is no remedy but following her, and if perchance at length she comes in unto the Lure, take her gently up, feed her with good Meat, and use her kindly as before directed, to the end she may be encouraged, and become in love with your Voice and Vsage against the like occa­sion.50

If you practice this diligently towards Soar-Hawks, or Hawks of the first Coat, they will learn to hold in at Voice, or sight of the Lure, when ever you perceive they are inclined to gad.

All Hawks should be set out in the Evening before Fleeing, to be well aired and sharp set a­gainst their coming into the Field, and to stand Hooded as before directed.60

CHAP. XIX.
Rules for Ordering Hawks in the Mew.

AS to the Mewing your Hawks, In the first place it is necessary to know when she ought to leave fleeing, and accordingly prepare her for it, which by most is agreed to be about our Lady-day; so that about October she will be fair Mewed, hard and home set.

Your Soar and Ramage-Falcon may be kept out longer, and flee her to May-day; but your Haggard, of all sorts, ought to be put into the Mew by the first of April: And the older the Hoggard is, the sooner she ought to be put there­in; for Nature will incline her sooner than young­er Hawks.

It is necessary that immediately after you leave fleeing, and before you put her into the Mew, you feed her up to be full of flesh and lusty, which is not acquired by letting her have of the best, and her fill; for then out of a greediness and the heat of her Stomach, she will take too much into her Gorge, over-pressing her self, and consequently rather retard through indigestion, than promote by due Concoction the end of your desire. My advice therefore is, that you continue, as to quantity and times of seeding, the same Rules as in the time of her fleeing for two or three days, only let her have then unwash't Meat to scour and Enseame her; then afterwards increase your hand a little by degrees, and let her not glut her self too full, lest she thereby fill her Stomach with tough raw Humours, and so fall in­to Distempers. About a Fortnights observance of this course (if she be sound) will raise her Flesh to your desire, and then you may be bold to feed her once a day; but with young Pigeons, for three or four days; for they are moist and hot, of easier digestion, and more nourishing than old ones: But for want of young, you may use such as you can get, always remembring that her first Gorges are reasonable as to quantity, because at that time of the year most old Feed is drier and harder of digestion than at other times.

With these Observations you shall find your Hawk raised in her flesh, and setled in her health, otherwise she must be put into the Mew: And without this preparation she will soon be at a stand, which will give you cause to fear it pro­ceeds from some bruise or inward grief, whereas it is meerly for want of care in the preparing and feeding her in the Mew.

When you put her into the Mew, be sure let her be free from Mites and Lice, for such like Vermin (which generally attend lean Hawks) will obstruct her thriving. You should also put on her Legs, instead of her old Jesses, a pair of strong new ones, that you may not be necessita­ted to put her on others at your drawing her out, which can't be done without heating and disturbing her, which at that time should be pre­vented, [Page 46] as being in the prime of her Grace. And she should also have Bells on, that if in case she break out of the Mew she may be heard.

Keep the Mew clean swept, and let there be a large broad Pan of Water set therein for her ba­thing, which must have fresh Water every other day. She must have Stones also lying by her in Gravel; for by her taking and casting of these Stones you may know the condition of her Bo­dy; and they may be carefully gathered up, clean 10 wash't, and laid for her in convenient places to take them again.

If whilst she continues in the Mew you give her any Fowl killed by a Gun, be sure to take a­way all the Shot and bruised Flesh, both being very hurtful and offensive to the Natures of all Hawks.

As to the situation of the Mew (which should be a pretty large ground Room) it should be so disposed that no Vermin, as Weesels, Polecats, 20 Rats, or the like, annoy it; nor should it be nigh any Highway, or where there is great resort of People: And the Perches should be lined to keep their Feet from hurting. Whilst she is in the Mew none should come near her but her Feeder or Keeper: And it were not amiss if you had a Feeding-stock in the Room, with a String fixed thereto to make fast her Meat in it, to prevent her dragging it up and down in the dust or filth, which renders it unfit for her feeding: But if you 30 give her no more than she can eat, this Rule is not to be observed.

Stale Meat is very hurtful, nor should you come into the Mew but when you bring some­thing to feed her.

It is convenient that the Air have a free pas­sage into the Mew, and that it have the benefit of the Sun, therefore I hold that broad Lettice Windows are very good: And you must not let any Rain drop upon your Hawk whilst she is in 40 the Mew.

As for her Meats whilst she is in the Mew, all small Birds are very good; also Chickens and Kid, and Eels cut in pieces, and dipt in warm Sheeps blood; and indeed most sorts of Flesh, provided it is fresh and sweet. And as to the quantity, let it be rather too much than too little.

Let her bathe once in two or three days if she will.

A Hawk is not full and firm drawn out of the 50 Mew until her Sarsels be full grown and hard penned; and when you intend to draw her out, do it with all expedition you can, putting on her Rufter- [...]ood very gently, and immediately set her on the Perch, that she may rest quietly for that Night, until her first heat and fury is allayed, which will be by the next Morning; for should you at that time use much striving with her, it would indanger the over-heating her, which will occasion many Diseases. 60

When she is on the Perch let some Company be discoursing or walking near at hand, that she may observe them, yet not [...]o as to disturb her: And when you perceive her pretty quiet, take her gently to you [...] Fist, stroaking her with a Feather. If she be troublesome and very coy, set her down again, and take her up a second time about an hour after, and so continue until you have gained her love, then proffer her a bit of Meat, after­wards accustom her to more carriage; but in­deavour with all your Art to prevent her from Bating.

After she is taken out of the Mew, hood her until she hath a good Stomach; feed her bare­faced, and suffer her Hood to be put on gently; and then in an Evening by Candle light you may unhood her, and the next Day shew her the Glove, and your Fist, suffering her to tyre and plume Morning and Evening. And sometimes in the Morning when her Gorge is empty, if you give her Sugar Candy it will help her to endew.

When by her eager feeding you think she is Enseamed, and that you may flee her, carry her into the Field, and if empty, she will Bate and fly of her own accord, and if she kill Reward her.

There is more danger in heating a Hawk ta­ken out of the Mew, than one newly taken being a Ramager; for the latter comes from her Exer­cise, and although she is fat, yet peradventure her fat and flesh is firm, and so made from her daily Exercise.

There is also more danger in a Mewed Hawk than in one taken out of the Cage; for though they are fat, yet their long Carriage by Sea and Land makes them less apt to Bate, and over­heat themselves.

Those that are taken from the Mew get their Fat by ease and rest, so that when they are brought to eat they must be fed twice a day with good new Meat well wash't and clean drest, that all the Blood may be well wrought out. As to the quantity you may use your discretion, giving her enough.

For the first ten days after your Hawk begins to feed, give her neither Stones nor Castings, but afterwards give her every Night about half a do­zen Stones after she hath put away her Supper from her Gorge, and you will find that she will have rendred them all again in the Morning.

The third Week begin to give her Castings, and so continue the same course for dyet and feeding as before directed, until she be fleeing: And all the time of her feeding add to her Meals, and forbear to wash altogether so hard, for it is care­ful and due feeding that makes her serviceable: Nor is there any Hawk but what will flee as she is taught; and if her Stomach be right, will flee with courage and attention to her Keeper.

After a long, tedious, and laborious flight, if you mistrust any Grease or uncleanness in her, give her Plumage, and Blood to content her, but not much Meat, half her usual Gorge being suf­ficient: Then when her Meat is put over, give her Stones, and set her up warm, and you shall find the Stones preserve her in a due proportion of heat for the present, which is very necessa­ry for her, rendring her cool and temperate for the future.

To conclude; Concerning the giving Stones, you must use the Stones and Casting with discretion: The latter without the former in a Hawk (sup­posed to be clean) will work no effect, and thereby deceive you. For Example: Give such [Page 47] a Hawk as you suppose to be very clean, Casting for a week together, and she will render it fair and white; and do but then give her some Stones, and then Casting, and you shall soon find some filth and glut which the Stones had made fit to remove by the Casting, and which without these Stones the Casting could not have wrought off.

Some times it happens that a Hawk may break out of the Mew, to regain, or find out the place where she Percheth in the Night, then 10 take with you a dark Lanthorn, and at your ap­proach hold the light to her, that she may not see your Face, but be employed in looking al­together on the light, which is accustomary to all Birds; then having espied her, climb up the Tree with as little noise as possible, ringing a Low-Bell at the bottom of the Tree, and hold­ing the light towards her, until she is taken, which you may easily do; for she will hardly stir.20

About a Fortnight or three Weeks before you intend to draw your Hawk out of the Mew, let her be fed twice a Day with clean drest, and wash't Meat; and you will find her thereby well ad­vanced towards her Enseaming; She will likewise thereby have scowred out of her Pannel and Gut, much of that Glut and Grease which hath there engendred, which vvill prevent many Dangers, that might have befallen her through Heat, oc­casioned by the least stirring, or Bating in the 30 time of her drawing out of the Mew.

Of Mewing at the Stock.

THe place for this purpose, should be a Ground Room, free from Noise; and there must be as many Turfs or Sods placed therein up­on the Ground, as you intend to Mew Hawks; and let the Distances be so wide, as not to reach 40 one another, Let the Ground be covered with Sand; and your Turfs must be raised so high one upon another, that your Hawks Trains may not touch the Ground.

For the fastning her to the Turf, put a Stick through the middle of the Turf, so that about two Inches of the Stick is beyond the Turf at each end; then fasten your Hawks Lease to the one end, and draw it over the top of the Turf, with a Swivel fixed in the middle of the 50 top of the Turf, and drawing it hard, fasten it to the other end of the Stick; then fasten your Hawk by the Jesses, to the upper part of the Swi­vel, which will give her leave to bate round about the Turf, but not to get off; and as oft as your up­per Turf grows dry, supply it with fresh.

Note that all Gerfalcons and Jerkins are to be Mewed this way, and not loose, as also all Hag­gards are unquiet in the loose Mew.

Every Morning when the Falconer comes to feed 60 the Hawks thus Mewed, as he enters the Room, he must give them his Voice, that they may know of his Approach; then with a Broom sweep away all their Mewtings; and then Feed each Hawk, as usually. The Sand thus swept away must be renewed to keep all sweet and clean.

All Hawks Mewed this way, should have Cop­hoods, which are large and easie, which must be taken off about once a Fortnight, that no­thing may hurt their Eyes.

Having Treated of the several sorts of Hawks, together with instructions for their Feed­ing, Reclaiming, and Mewing; the next business shall be to Treat of some Necessary things, fit for a Falconer to understand and observe.

CHAP. XX.
Necessary Rules for a Falconer to observe.

WHosoever intends to apply himself to this Art, and to become Master, must for some time bestow all his Care and endeavours therein; he must be diligent to learn, and observe the Natures, Inclinations, Strength, Mettle, and Conditions of his Hawks; he must Treat them with a Gentle and Loving Hand, and pass by their Faults with Patience: He must not be ad­dicted to Tables, Cards, or playing of good fel­low, for many an excellent Hawk hath been lost, through the intemperance of her Keeper, nor can he be termed a good Falconer, that is apt to be led away by these or the like Disorders; I grant he may be expert in Reclaiming, Enseaming, and Fleeing his Hawk, Nay, he may attain to great Skill in the Ordering and Managing her in her Flights, and whilst she is in the Field, but if then he betakes himself to the Pot and Pipe, when he is returned home, and peradventure to let his poor Tyred Hawk to hang by the Heels, such a one can't deserve the Name of a good Fal­coner. He that is a Smoaker, must not chew the Hawks Meat in his Mouth, for some good time after; For it will make her cast her Gorge, or stand upon her Meat, which will occasion a dis­order unto her, if not kill her.

It is not enough that a Falconer knows how to Cure his Hawk, of any Disease, or Distemper, nor what Remedies he ought to use in such and such accidents; but his Care must be to preserve her from Diseases and ill Accidents, which he may in a great Measure perform, by Care and Diligence; for that Phisitian which prevents a Disease, is of more Esteem than he that Cures it.

He must be careful to keep his Hawk clean, and free from Li [...]e, Mites, and the like Vermine, the first being in the Body▪ and the latter about the Eyes and Nares; and she must be in good Case as to State of Body, for a lean Hawk is subject to more Diseases than a Fat one, especially, Lice, and Mites; and yet a Measure ought to be obser­ved in her Feeding, for if overfat, it hinders her Flight.

The place under the Perch should be often Gravelled, the better to discern by her Casting, when she hath need of Scowring, Stones, or the like.

Every Morning tye your Hawk out to weather [Page 48] her; and those Mornings that she Baths, when she is throughly dry, give her some Plumage, or Tyreing, to prevent her catching Cold, and then she will be fit for Flying.

After you come from your Sport, set a Candle lighted by her, which will occasion her to Rouze, please and Oyl her self, where she sits unhood­ed.

Every Morning that you intend to Flee her, set her out Early to Air, or Weather, pulling off her 10 Hood, for so long a time as she sits quiet, and then Hood her up again; and so let her sit till you go to the Field: And when you set her out to Weather, place her on a Block or Stump, about a Foot High, and tyed at half length of the Lease; and if there be more Hawks than one in a Room, place them so, that they reach not one another, as before directed.

Every Night after Fleeing, give them Castings, sometimes Plumage, and sometimes knots of Fla­nel, 20 or Feather Castings, and sometimes Phisick, as you see occasion by their Castings, and Mewts.

Be Careful not to tye your Hawk too high from the Ground, for fear of Bateing, hanging by the Heels, or the like ill accidents, but set her low; and if there be more Hawks than one in the same Yard or Garden, place them so as not to reach one another.

The Falconer must be provided with Copeing 30 Irons to cope the Hawks Beak, when it is over­grown, also Cauterizeing Irons, Scissers, Bodkin, and such like necessary Tools.

CHAP. XXI.
Terms of Art in Falconry.40

THe First and Principal Term to be practised is, Hold Fast; and that at all times, especially when she Bateth or Striveth to Flee away.

Say Feed your Hawk, and not give her Meat; and when she hath Fed, say she Feaketh her Beak, and not wipeth it.

She is full Gorged, not Cropped; and if her Gorge be void, and her Bowels any thing stiff,50 say, she is Embowelled, and hath not fully Endu­ed, and so long as you find any thing in her Bowels, it is Dangerous to give her Meat.

You shall say she Jouketh, and not Sleepeth, she Prun [...]h, not Picketh her self; nor can she properly [...] said to Prune her self, but when she begins at her Legs, and fetcheth out Moisture at her Rump, wherewith she Oyleth her Feet, and strikes the Feathers of her Wings through her Beak, which she doth after she hath been wet in 60 a R [...]iny Flight▪ and when she Pruneth her self, do not disturb her [...] for then she sheweth her self to be Lusty, and of good Courage. When she has done Pruning, she will exceedingly rouze her self.

When she Picketh her self, say she Pruneth her self.

When she stretches one Wing and a Leg, she Mantleth, and when she lifts up her Wings, she Towreth.

To Brayle the Hawks Wing, is to put a piece of Leather over the Pinion of one of her Wings, to keep it close.

Say she Rouzeth, and not Shaketh her self.

If a Long Winged Hawk, say she Mewteth, and if a short Winged, she Sliceth.

Say, set your Hawk to the Perch.

Say she is a Fair, Long, Short, or Thick Hawk, and not a great Hawk; and she hath a Large, or Short Beak, and not a Bill.

Say she is full Gorged, and not Cropped.

Say she putteth over, and endeweth, but both in a divers Sense; for she puts over when she re­moves her Meat from her Gorge into her Pannel, by traversing with her Body, but chiefly with her Neck: She never Endeweth, so long as her Gorge is full at her Feeding; but as soon as she hath Fed and Rested, then she Endeweth by little and little.

When a Long Winged Hawk is Flown from the Fist at her Game, it is said she goeth well Aforehead; and after she hath laid in her Game, and betakes her self to her Wings, it is called Flying.

For a Short Winged Hawk, say She goes well from the Fist, and when she has laid in her Game, and taken her Stand, it is said she goes well or nimbly at the Retrieve.

Hawks have proper Names to their Feathers. Their Principal Feathers are six in each Wing, and Twelve in her Train; all the small Feathers (except her Flag Feathers under her Wings, which are Thin and Broad) are her Plumage; the first Feather in the Wings are the Sarcel Feathers, which she always casts last, when she is in the Mew; and then, and not before is the proper time to Feed her with Wash't Meat; and begin to E [...] ­seam her, that is, to take away her Grease, for Wash't Meat purgeth her. There are other Fea­thers that close up the Sarcels, and those are termed the Covering Feathers, as are all the Fea­thers, which are next over the long Beam, and Flag Feathers.

When she Picketh her self, say she reformeth her Feathers.

Say she Collieth, and not Breaketh; She Strain­eth, not Clitcheth, or Snatcheth.

When she waits at the place, where she lays the Partridge, or other Game, until she be retriev­ed, say she keeps her Mark.

A Hern that stands by the Water Side, watch­ing for her Prey, is said to stand at Seidge.

When a Hawk goeth forth at Check, it is term­ed she maketh out.

When she Groweth Fat, say she is Raised in Flesh.

CHAP. XXII.
Concerning the Diseases of Hawks, with proper Cures for the same.

DIseases are easier prevented than cured; eve­ry 10 one therefore that intends to keep Hawks should be well advised in the first place how to preserve them from Sickness and Maladies, which is of greater concern than to cure them when distempered.

In the next place, [...]f any Hawk hath any Sick­ness or Malady, provide timely Remedies, not per­mitting them to run on too far: And in the last place you must be furnish't with Medicines pro­per for the Distemper. 20

Accidents will unavoidably happen, and then your Art and Care will be required to cure them with the greatest ease, safety, and quickness.

Diseases and inward Infirmities do send forth certain previous Symptoms, whose progressions may be impeded by a timely application of ne­cessary Remedies.

I shall give you some Instructions how to cure those Distempers that Hawks are most subject un­to, especially at the time of their drawing out of 30 the Mew, being then very fat and full of Grease, un­less you order them accordingly: And withal, being full of courage and wild, they are apt to over-heat themselves by Stirring, Bating, Resist­ing, &c. and if you do not prevent the ensuing Evils your Hawk is utterly lost; for it is impossi­ble to cure her of these Infirmities whilst she is in her Grease. If therefore your Hawk be of great Mettle and Coy, wash her with cold Water, which will much refresh and cool her before she begins 40 to Bate; for after she hath heat her self, then too suddain excess of Cold will clog her up. The Heat will melt her Grease, but the Cold will con­geal it, which of the two Evils is the greatest.

Also it is not good to make too much haste in the E [...]seaming her, nor to disperse her Grease too soon, for that takes away her St [...]mach, and causeth her to cast disorderly: Likewise it is the occasion of abating her Flesh, which bringeth weakness of Body, from whence proceeds the 50 C [...]o [...]k and many other Diseases difficult to cure.

The wild Hawk preserveth her self at all Times and Seasons in a moderate state by her continual Exercise and good Feeding. She liveth longer than the Reclaimed ones, and takes greater pains for her living, being her own Caterer; and if at any time she [...]inds her self oppressed with tough and ill Humours, Glu [...], Grease, Fat, or the like, Nature has taught her (as indee [...] all Creatures) to be her own Physicion, and to make choice of her 60 own Medicines, which are no other than [...] Wa­ter and Stones or Gravel. It were well if all Men would observe such a course when their Hawks are out of order; for certain it is, i [...] these things will not cure and prevent Diseases, if timely ta­ken, whereunto your Hawks Stomach is natural­ly inclined, then [...]e confident that no Drugs or Medicines will effect the Cure. I hold therefore that all Sophisticated Scowrings are not only un­natural, but insignificant to the end for which they are intended. I must confess in appearance they may seem to remove some inward Diseases, but they do it not effectually, for they return a­gain. But for such that will be perswaded there­unto, I shall lay down some Scowrings or purging Medicines, with the true manner how to administer them, and how to prepare your Hawk for receiv­ing them, that they may be the more effectual.

Of Scowring and Purging Medicines.

A Strong and full Hawk shall be exercised with Courage, clean fed, Stones and Casting, at least eight days, to stir the Humours in her Body, and make them fit to be wrought upon. You must then feed her in the Morning, only up­on that day that you intend to scowr her, that she may be empty at Night; then give her Scow­ring, and set her up warm; early the next Morn­ing give her Stones in this following comfortable Water.

Take a Pint of clean Water, put therein six brused Cloves, as many thin slices of Liquorice, with some brown Sugar Candy dissolved; when she hath cast her Stones, give her a little good Meat to her Breakfast. The said Water is very pleasing and grateful to the Hawk, and withal strengthening, and exceeding good for any Hawk that is poor and low.

For your strong and full Hawks this is a most ex­cellent Scowring; Take a quarter of a Pound of fresh Butter, and four Spoonfuls of Whitewine Vineger, boyl them gently together, scum and clarifie it well, and then add to it three or four bruised Cloves, a branch of Rue, and one of Wormwood, a blade or two of Saffron, and a piece of Sugar Candy; let all these boyl a little together, then take the Saffron, Cloves, Rue, and Wormwood, when the remainder is cold, drain off the Vineger, and make up the Substance into small Pellets, and being rolled up in Sugar Candy, give to [...]ach Hawk two of them; and as to the bigness, you may proportion them to the size of your Hawk.

If it be not strong enough at the first giving, at the second time convey into one of the Pellets the quantity of a Tare of clean unwash't Aloes, which will work very kindly. This Scowring is good for a Surfeit, and for one that has long continued in a foul and disorderly Feeding; It purgeth the Stomach, killeth Worms, tesi [...]teth Rottenness, strengtheneth the Heart, and comfor­teth the Head.

If your Hawk be but in a reasonable state of Body, and you mistrust some inward Infirmity, then take a quarter of a [...]ound of sweet fresh Butter, let it boyl by it self, scumming it well, then put into it three or four small branches of Rosemary, two or three bruised [...]loves, a little M [...]e, a little S [...]ffron in Powder, and a pretty piece of brown Sugar Candy [...], and boyl all these together very well: In the cooling put in a little Powder of Rue, and mi [...] them altogether very well; then take out the Cloves, M [...]e, and Rose­mary. [Page 50] You must give the same in quantity and manner, both for Time, Preparation, Dyet, &c. as before directed: And if you find it not strong enough, put into one of the Pellets a small quan­tity of wash't Aloes. This Scowring gently purg­eth, strengthens the Heart, preserves the Lights, and removes Stoppings and Obstructions.

A Hawk in a low estate and weak, must be ordered in another manner: For whereas you gave your strong Hawks scowring at Night, you 10 must give it a weak one in the Morning, and feed her the Night before with good Meat, that she may put it kindly away, and be empty betimes in the Morning; then give her the Scowring you intend, and set her on a warm Brick wrapt up in a double Woollen cloath, and there let her stand about three hours, until she is fit to Feed, and then give her a little that is good, feeding her by degrees, not all at once; and be sure to give her of the Water already prescribed.20

If you Order and Dyet her in this manner, that is, with good food, moderate warmth, and due care, no doubt but that she will regain her former health.

I shall add this compound Scowring, which is very good for any Hawk in what state and condi­tion soever.

Take a good quantity of fresh Butter well boyled, clarified and wash't in Rose-water, then make it up with the Powders of six Cloves, two 30 or three blades of Saffron, the quantity of a small Nutmeg of Rue in Powder, with good store of Sugar Candy. Being kept close stopt or covered in a Box, it will keep a long time, and you may give it your Hawk as occasion requires.

You may Feed within about an hour after it, and it will make her very fond of you, full, haughty, and proud: It prevents the Wind, open­eth Obstructions, purgeth the Head, warmeth the Body, comforteth the inward Parts; is good a­gainst 40 shortness of Breath, and is a present Reme­dy for the Cray and Pantas.

I shall now give you an excellent Scowring for a full bodied Hawk after she has been Lured, and her Grease and Heat stirred in her before she be throughly Enseamed. Take some sweet Butter, clarifie it well, and put thereto the Powder of Box-leaves and Rosemary, of each a like quanti­ty, a little Powder of Horehound; mix all these very well together, and make them up into small 50 Pellets with brown Sugar Candy: Give your Hawk two of these Pellets at Night, as before directed, and it will purge and scowr the Pannel, and o­ther inward Parts of Grease, and the like Hu­mours, and will cause her to Enseame very well.

I shall now add something concerning simple Scowrings, amongst which that which we call Casting is one. For a short winged Hawk, the soft Feathers of small Birds, with some part of the Skin, is very good and natural. And for a long 60 winged One, fine Flannel cut into pieces about an Inch square, rolled up, and given in a bit of Meat.

By these you shall know in what state your Hawk is in; for when she hath returned them, if you find them hard, white, and round, not stink­ing or very moist, and if upon pressing or squeez­ing it betwixt your Fingers, you find clear wa­ter come forth, 'tis a sure sign she is well and lusty: But if it be long, with contrary properties, as black, green, yellowship, slimy, greasie, or stink­ing, it denotes her diseased. The former Casting is remedied by hot Meats; the latter by feeding her well, and washing her Meat in cool Water, as of Endive, or the like; and give her one or two Castings of Cotton, or Flannel mixt with Incense and Mummy.

There is another gentle simple Scowring, and that is the Root of Sellandine, of which four or five small Pellets, give out of the Water early in the Morning (your Hawk being fasting) will finely cleanse her; but it must be given to a strong Hawk, as being a strong Medicine.

Before you give any Scowring to a Hawk, know the state of her Body, and accordingly make and order it, observing the Time and Season.

Casting of Plumage is to be observed as the former Casting, that is, if in the Morning you find them round and not stinking, it shews health and soundness: But if long, slimy, with undigest­ed Flesh sticking to it and stinking, it denotes Di­seases and Vnsoundness.

Mewts as well as Castings must be observed, being of such importance for the knowing the state and condition of your Hawk, that they ought to be regarded every Morning.

If the Mewt be white without black spots, and not very thick, it is a sign of health; but if white and very thick in the middle, it signifies that she is gross and full of Grease: And this may be re­medied by giving her moist Meats, as Lambs, Sheeps, or Calves Hearts, and the like: And for two Mornings after (being empty) give her Sugar Candy, and this will scowr her.

If the Mewt be more yellow than white, it is a sign she abounds in Choler, occasioned from great Flights in hot weather, as also from much Ba­ting. This is cured by washing and wringing her Meat in Bugloss, Endive, Borage, or the like cool Waters, and to wring it in a Linnen cloath after it is washt.

The green Mewt denotes an infected Liver: For cure, feed her with Meat powdred with Mum­my; if she will not take it so, give it her in a Scowring or Casting: And if this will not soon effect the cure, then give her a Scowring of Agarick, and then another of Iucense to comfort her.

The Mewt full of several Colours is very bad, and a speedy course must be taken by giving her purified Mummy beaten to Powder, wrapt up in Cotton.

The black Mewt proceeds from an infected Li­ver, and is very dangerous, so that it will kill her in a few days if it continue: For cure, give her good warm Meat, and Cotton Casting, with the Powder of Cloves, Nutmegs, and Ginger, or Mum­my alone.

The dark sanguine Mewt with black in it, is the most dangerous and hardly curable.

Concerning the choice of Stones, the number, and the bigness of them, use your own discreti­on with due regard to your Hawk; for seeing you shall seldom see two of one kind exactly to agree [Page 51] in proportion and nature, therefore regulate your self according to discretion.

The Stones most proper are a sort of fine white Pibbles, commonly found in the Sands and Gravelly Rivers, the rougher they are the better, provided they are not gritty.

To a Falcon Gentle give about seven Stones, and seldom above nine. To a Merlin and Hobby not above five or six; and so to other sorts pro­portionable to these, and be sure to give them 10 the Stones always clean washt and free from filth.

If your Hawk cast her Stones disorderly, keeping all or some of them longer than she should, be then well advised how to proceed with her. This ill property is occasioned through sudden Colds after Heats, before they are per­fectly Enseamed. For Cure do not use striving with her, lest you bring her down from her flesh; but give her Stones out of Fair-water at due 20 times and often, and not in the Morning, for by that means you will often be constrained to keep her often Fasting the whole day in expectation of them, as being pleasing to her; but at Night, which is the best time for quietness, and then she will have time to receive the true operation of them.

You must not give Stones to a sick Hawk, which is not of strength to return them; but to a strong one at Night, and you will not fail to 30 have them again in the Morning: And if she should not have rendred them, yet feed her, and use this constantly but a little while, and you will Reclaim her to cast them duly.

Of Worms, and how to destroy them.

HAWKS are oft troubled with Worms, and there is a sort called the Back-Worm of a­bout 40 half a yard long, which trouble them, and will in time kill them; It proceeds from gross and visious Humors in the Bowels, occasioned through ill Digestion and want of Natural heat.

This Back-worm is rarely quite killed; but a careful Falconer by giving her Cloves of Garlick steeped in Wormwood once a Month, and once a Fortnight against his putting her into the Mew, will qualifie the Worm so as not much to hinder 50 her Fleeing, and without this care she will sud­denly be spoiled.

This Distemper is easily discerned by these Symptoms, viz. by her stinking Breath, her Casting her Gorge, her Croaking in the Night, her trembling and writling her Train, her Mewting, which is small and unclean, and also by her keeping at a stay in a low state of Flesh.

This Distemper may be cured these three ways; first, Take Pressure made of a Lamb that 60 was slinked, and make thereof two or three pieces, which put into the Gut of a Dove, or the like Fowl, and feed your Hawk therewith at such times as she is empty, and keep her fasting about two hours after. Secondly, Provide a Glass full of the Juice of Wormwood when it is green, and in its greatest strength, and put therein twenty or thirty Cloves of Garlick, as many as the Juice will cover, being first clean peeled and pierced through; keep them close stopt, and when you have use for any, give her one at a time for three or four days at Night for her Supper, having first made them clean and dry on the out-side, and let her have Water offered her every Morning afterwards; and when you give her her Supper, roul up two or three Bits of Meat in Mustard-seed unbruised, and let her eat it: Her Casting at this time should be Plumage. Thirdly, Your Hawk may be cured by a Scouring of washt Aloes, Hepatick, Mustard-seed and Aga­rick, of each an equal quantity; and with these Medicines you need not fear the destroying of them at any time. And if she vold Worms, take fine Filings of Iron and strew it upon her Meat for two or three days, and it will cure her.

Of the Filander, or Back-Worm.

THis is a Distemper about the Reins, being very small Worms, which lye wrapt up in a thin Skin near that part; this Disease makes her poor, and if not timely prevented will kill her. The Signs of this Disease are her Poverty, her ruffling her Train, and her Croaking in the Night. This Disease is cured as before directed for the Worms, and feed her not in about two hours after; let it be warm and not much; and be sure too keep her warm all that day, lest she take cold. And it were not amiss if you gave her a Clove of Garlick so steeped in the Juice of Wormwood once a Month, being a great pre­server of health, and prevents divers Distempers that Hawks are subject unto.

There is another sort of Filander that lies in the Gut or Pannel, being long, small, white and red Worms; For Cure, take Aloes, Epatick, Filings of Iron, Nutmeg, and so much Hony as will serve to make them into a Pill, which give her in the Morning so soon as she hath Cast, and after she hath Mewted it clean away give her good hot Meat.

Certain Rules to be observed to keep all Hawks in good health.

FIrst, Never give them a great Gorge, especi­ally of gross Meat that is hard to be En­dewed and put over, as Beef, and the like; but if in case you are constrained thereunto, then let it be first soaked, well in clean Water and well wrung out; and observe if it be in Sum­mer the Water must be cold, but if in Winter then luke-warm.

Secondly, Do not feed them with the Flesh of any Beast lately gone to Rut, being dange­rous.

Thirdly, Though washt Meat keeps them in health, yet it is not so hearty as that of Fowls newly killed, nor is it so grateful to them.

To preserve a Hawk in the time of her Flying, and to keep her in health.

GIve her every Fortnight in the Morning, and after her Casting, Aloessiccatrine about an Horse-Bean wrapt up in a little piece of Flesh, or in the Skin of a Hen, that she may not taste it, and carry her on your Fist, the better to keep 10 her from Casting it too soon; then set her in the Sun, or by the Fire hooded, and about two hours after give her a reasonable Gorge of some live Bird, or Fowl.

To help a Hawk that Endeweth not, nor putteth over as she ought.

THis is occasioned by a Surfeit, from being foul within, or else being over-Gorged 20 when she was poor and low, through too overmuch haste to set her up, which is a great fault in many Faulconers.

To Cure this Disease, feed her with light Meats, and a little at a time; also if you feed her with Flesh of Fowl, first steep it well in the Blood thereof, which will cause her to mount her Flesh apace. And it were not amiss if you gave her a scouring of Pills made of Beef-Marrow, Saffron, Sugar and Lard mixt together three or four 30 Mornings, giving her a reasonable Gorge about two hours after.

Directions to preserve a Goshawk in the time of her Fleeing, especially in hot Weather.

TAke a Pint of Red Rose-Water, put it into a Bottle, bruise a Stick or two of Liquo­rice, 40 and put it therein, as also a little Mace, with the quantity of a Walnut of Sugar-Candy. In this Water draw her Meat through two or three times a Week, as you find occasion. It prevents the Pantas, and several other Diseases they are subject unto; besides it gives a great Breath, and gently Scours them.

To raise a Hawk that is poor and low.50

THis is occasioned by an ill Faulconer, in not feeding and ordering her well to pre­vent Distempers, or else by Soaring away, and being left for some time to seek her own Prey she becomes Poor and Low.

To raise her up, feed her but a little at a time and often, with good Meat of a light Dige­stion.

If she hath lost her Stomach, either by taking 60 too great a Gorge in the Evening that she can't well Endew, or by being foul in the Pannel, or having taken a Cold; Take Aloessiccatrine, boiled Sugar, and Beef-Marrow, of each a like quantity, mix them and make them into Pills, which give her, holding her in the Sun, or by the Fire in Cold Weather, until she hath cast up the filth and slime within her, and feed her not until Noon; and then give her Pigeons, small Birds, or the like Meat.

Of the Frownce.

IF your Hawk hath the Frownce, it proceeds from moist and cold Humors, either from the Throat, Stomach, or Liver, and thereby lose their Appetite, and can't close their Clap. It is called the Eagles Bane, as being commonly the cause of her death. The usual Signs of it are, her Mouth will be continually furr'd and frothed with white, and her Tongue swoln; and if it pro­ceed from the Throat, it may be seen and drest: And then do thus; Take a Sawcer of good Whitewine-Vinegar, put therein three or four Red Sage-leaves, and boil them pretty well; then take a little Powder of Burnt-Allom, which put into it, suffering it to boyl a walm or two, and so put it into a Vial, and keep it for your use.

If you find the Frownce to be Rank, Take the Flower of Brimstone a small quantity, tye it close in a Linnen-Cloth, and let it infuse in Vine­gar four and twenty hours; then strain into the Vinegar as much of the Juice as you can get out. Having thus made the Medicine, cut or pare off with a sharp Knife, or a Pair of Scissers, which you find most convenient, the Scale of the Frownce to the quick, and with the tip of the Feather lay thereon two or three drops of the Vinegar made luke-warm in a Spoon. Do the like the second day, and afterwards but once in three days. Keep your Hawks Mouth open with your Finger for some time, after you have touched the Sore place with the Vinegar, that she swallow it not down.

If the Frownce be very foul, so that it is as big as a Nut; then it must be slit with your Incision Knife, and afterwards cut all out, cleans­ing the Blood away with a clean Cloth; then a­noint the Sore with Balm, and afterwards with Popelion.

If the Frownce proceed from the Stomach, Stones and Casting will soon discover that, and recover her.

If it lye in the Liver, there is no way more certain than to give her Stones out of Sorrel-Water, and some of the Water with them; give it also with the Meat you feed her with, which must be such as is easie of Digestion. Her Gorges should also be easie and often.

If you infuse into the Sorrel-Water a thin slice or two of Rhubarb, it is excellent to cool all the Inflamations of the Liver in a short time, and to set her sound and right; but not without due care and ordering, for a Neglect will endanger her, and create new Troubles.

Of the Pin.

THis Disease troubles Hawks as it doth Chic­kens, and proceeds from cold and moistness in the Head, or from feeding on gross Meats, not well washt in cold Water in the Summer and warm in the Winter.

[Page 53] For Cure, First give her a Scouring-Pill made of Agarick and Hierapitca, for two or three days together, with her Casting at Night, which will cleanse her Head; then wash her Tongue with Rose water, and anoint it three or four days with Oyl of sweet Almonds. When you see the Pin to be white and soft, being then throughly ripe; slit it and take it off with the end of a sharp Awl or Bodkin; then anoint the place two or three times a day with the said Oyl, until it be 10 cured.

Of the Pantas.

THis is a dangerous Disease, and esteemed not curable, if not timely taken: It is easie at first to be found out, for after a little Bating she will begin to fetch her Breath thick, with panting; and as it increaseth she will shew it more by labouring in her Pannel, even as she 20 sits still on the Pearch; and will be forced to Gape for Breath; but when it is come to this height it is incurable.

This Disease proceeds when the Lungs are over dryed with heat, so that the Heart wants the re­freshing that the Lungs give it, which are the Bellows to draw in the Air; and this Disease is the same with a Broken Winded Horse.

The Pantas doth proceed from two Causes, viz. from Heat and Drought of the Lungs, which 30 is very hard to be Cured; and from some Grease or tough matter setled in the Pannel.

For Cure, Take a Quarter of a Pound of sweet Butter, put it into Damask Rosewater, in a Viol close covered; and when you use it, which must be very often, take a little thereof, and put thereto a little Powder of Rue, and the Powder of Saffron mixt well together, and made into Pellets rolled in Broken Sugar Candy, and give her two of the Pellets every Morning for a Week 40 together, keeping her constantly warm.

If you give her a Scouring of Sellandine steeped in Oyl of Roses, and wash her Meat in Coltsfoot-Water, 'tis very good, for the first coming.

Of the Crock, and the Cramp.

THere are some Hawks that are apt to have the Crock, and Cramp; and although they are of two Names, yet they are of one and the 50 same Nature, being both occasioned by suddain Cold, after labour and Heat, either in Flying strong Flights before she is clean, or Bat [...]ing, the former though well Enseamed, the latter before it; By this you may know how to prevent it. Be sure then to keep your new drawn Hawk from over­heating her self by striving, and if she doth not, wash her suddenly, but keep her moderately warm. And as for your Enseamed and Fleeing Hawk, set her not carelesly down on any cold place, after 60 hard Labour, but cherish her and keep her mode­rately warm; for through Negligence a Hawk gets both these distempers, so as to lose the use of her Joynts; and in this Case expect no Cure.

The Cramp most commonly comes after the Crock, and is a General Convulsion of the Nerves and Sinews of the Feet, Legs, and Thighs; and is Cured by Warmth, and inward Gentle Scourings. This Disease seizeth on the Limbs, and is easily to be discerned by the Contracting and Extending of them. For Cure, there is requi­red Rest, Heat, and these following Directions; Fill a larg Brass Pot or Kettle with clean Water, into which put three handfulls of Red and White Sage-leaves, with as much Polipody of the Oak, and let them Boil together, then cover the Pot with good store of Cloths, and set your Hawk thereon. She must not be Over-heated, but moderately warmed, neither must you suffer her to be suddainly cooled: You should also give her every Morning a Clove of Garlick, for Seven or Eight days together, to expel the inward Cold, and open her Pipes. You should also shred very small, a little Rue and Wormwood mixt with sweet fresh Butter and Sugar Candy, and make it up into Pellets, and give her one or two for three Morn­ings in a Week; likewise now and then take out of the Pot some of the Sage and Polipody very hot, to lay before her Nares, that she may be fumed therewith; some for the Cramp will only let Blood, that Leg or Foot which she holds up or resteth upon the other; and if she doth but inter­missively, then both, which hath often proved ef­fectual.

For the Crock you may easily discern it, both by your Eye and Ear. It is so termed from her Croaking, or making a hoars Noise with her Wind from her Throat; and if it be after she is Enseam­ed, give her Rest, and this following Medicine: Take a Pint of Claret, put therein a little Sugar-Candy, three Slices of Ginger, and as much bruised Cloves; and let this stew or infuse over a gentle Fire, close covered with another Dish of an equal Big­ness; this upper Dish must be often taken off to wipe away the moisture with a Feather, and therewith give her some with her Meat, as oft as you Feed her, and be sure to keep her warm. If it be taken before she is Enseamed, it is so much the worse, yet curable, if the Cramp is not also in her.

For Cure, Dyet and order her for quantity and continuance with the Scouring mentioned a­foresaid, wherein the Wormwood and Rue are mixt together; and you need not fear her reco­very, with due care in the observance there­of.

Of the Rye.

THis Disease proceeds from suddain Cold, af­ter Heat and labour, like as the two for­mer, it produceth a continual stopping in the Head, which in a little time causeth the Frownce, or a per­petual moist, dropping Humour very hard to be Cured.

For preventing this Disease, do not set her on any cold place, as the Ground, or in any low Damp Room; but on a Warm Dry Perch, which at such times should be a little higher than usual.

The Cure, if timely taken, is by giving Rest, and keeping her warm, by orderly Feeding with these Directions. Her Food should be opening [Page 54] and easie of Digestion, hot and moist; and if you sometimes gave her at her Meals two or three brui­sed Blades of Mace, it would do very well. You must also give her constantly with her Meat some of the Confection a little before prescribed, viz. clarified Butter, with Rue, Saffron, and Sugar Can­dy in Powder, finely made up in Pellets; also give her good store of Plumage, and keep her warm. They will loosen and open her, and cause her to throw with her Head, and when once she 10 comes to that, blow the Juice of Dazy Roots, with a Quill or Straw into her Nares an hour before you feed her; and thrice a week in the Mornings blow the Juice of Sage into her Nares: These are both good to purge away tough, slimy, and cor­rupted congealed filth, the Body being predisposed to evacuate it.

Of the Cray.

THe Cray with the Cure is almost the same 20 with the Pantas, and proceeds from cold, but it is through ill Dyet and long feeding with cold stale Meat. The Symptoms are these: Her Mewtings will not be plentiful, nor will they come freely and with ease from her, she will drop some part thereof short and dispersed, and her body will be bound, and as it were dried up and clung. It is soon discovered, and as soon recovered, if timely taken. You must first remove the cause,30 her Dyet must be high, easie of digestion, and cooling Meat, such as young Rabets, Chickens, Sheeps hearts, and the like: Also use her to your Confection of fresh sweet Butter made up with Rue, Cloves and Mace, and anoint her Meat there­with. These things will cure the Distemper; for it openeth her Body, and cleanseth her of those indigestions and burning heats which afflict her, and which in a little time will kill her.

It were not amiss to give her with her Meat 40 sometimes of the distilled Water of Sorel, Wood­bine, Horehound, and the like cooling, cleansing, and opening things.

Diseases of the Liver and Stomach.

IF you think your Hawk hath any obstruction in her Liver or Stomach, or that she hath any inward Disease which you know not how to re­move, you must be quick with her; for if for all 50 your care in feeding and keeping her she continues at a stand, or rather falls back; or if she sits broody and crowching with her Feathers display­ed, doth sometimes start and jerk out with her Leg, and the like usual Motions, questionless she has some Distemper that lyeth lurking in her. Now to try if it lye in her Stomach only, give her this insuing Purge. Take some clarified Butter that is kept in Rosewater, then mince a little Rue and Wormwood very small, which mix in the But­ter 60 with Powder of Sugar Candy together, with a a little Myrrh finely beaten: These Ingredients make up into Pellets, and give your Hawk once in a Morning, and it will finely cleanse her, and is excellent for any Stomach Disease.

If the Distemper lye deeper, then wash her Meat in Whitewine, in which infuse a small slice of A­garic, and the like of white Ginger: You may make it stronger or milder, as you see occasion; and you may also give her a small quantity of Agaric in Powder.

If still you perceive the Disease to lye further in, you may conclude it is in the Liver, and that occasioned throw ill Dyet, Heats, Colds, Sur­feits, and the like; therefore forbear to give her any dry and hot Meat, I do not mean warm Meat, for that you must give her and none else; but I mean such Meat as is hot and dry in its nature and operation, and such as are old and hard of digestion. You must alter her food every day, sometimes one thing and sometimes another, and not two different sorts at a time; and give her Castings and Stones with moderation. In case you find her Mewts and Castings to be greenish in some places, and yellowish in others, it is a complica­tion of Distempers in her Gall and Liver. Now all Hawks are subject to the over-flowing of the Gall, which being discernable at first, is easily cu­red, if you wash her Meat in distilled Water of Liverwort sweetned with Sugar Candy; and now and then, either at Morning or Evening, convey the Powder of three or four Cloves into a bit of Meat, and give her; it will allay and cool all In­flamations proceeding from the Liver.

If you infuse a little slice of Rhubarb in the di­stilled Water of Endive and Succory, or one of them, it will cool the heat of the Liver, and cleanse all Distempers of the Gall; the weight of two Grains of Wheat of Rhubarb in Powder gi­ven to a Falcon, and so proportionable to other Hawks, is an excellent Purge for all ill Humours proceeding from the Gall: But then you must afterwards in three or four days give her a gentle Scowring of some one of these prescribed in the beginning of this Chapter of the Cures of Hawks.

I shall only add this Water, which is appro­ved excellent for any inward Sickness, proceeding from heat and drought, the Symptoms of which are very apparent; for her Countenance will be heavy, she will have a ratling in her Throat, and her whole Body will be inflamed, as if it were in a Fever; for which there is no better Remedy than this following Receipt. Take two Ounces of French Barley, wash it well, and put it into a Pipkin with about a Pint of clean Water; let it boyl a little, then draw away that Water, and put more to the Barley, which must also boyl four or five walms; draw that also off, and pour in some more fresh Water, as before; but this last time you are to put in about a quart, which must be boyled until about half be consumed; then strain out the Water, and mix some Sugar Candy with it, and boyl both together a little. It will not hold good above four days, so that make it as occasion serves; and when you feed her, wash the Meat in this Water. It is also very good to wash her Meat in the Waters of Horebound, Woodbine, Woodsorel, or the like.

To comfort and preserve the Heart from any infirmity proceeding from heat.

TAke the distilled Water of Burrage and Bugloss mixt together, into which put half a dozen sliced Cloves to infuse, and in this Water wash her Meat that you give her once a day, and let her be quiet and at rest; her feed must be 10 light, and not heavy of digestion; and give her but small Gorges thereof, for a great Gorge ruins her.

If the Head is stuft with a Cold.

TAke Rosemary Leaves, dry them, and beat them to fine Powder, which mix with the Powder of about twelve Cloves in clarified and preserved Butter, so made out of the Rosewater 20 and Sugar Candy, and give it her in Pellets in the Morning, one or two at a time, and be sure to keep her very warm until she is recovered, which will not be long.

To scowr a Hawk before she is cast into the Mew.

IN Luring and Flying time, through foul feed­ing, 30 Hawks ingender Filanders and many o­ther Distempers, so that they must be scowred and cleansed before they are cast into the Mew; for which observe these Directions: First scowr her well according to the former Directions; also Cope her, and set her well in Flesh, and as near as you can let her be free from Diseases.

Observe that a Haggard Hawk must be cast into the Mew loose, unless she be one that will not be quiet, and then darken the Room so that she may only see to feed, and come at Water and 40 Stones; and if that will not do, Mew her upon the Stock, as before directed.

When she begins to Mew, begin to tye her to the Perch or Block, as you do the rest; and after she hath mewed and comes to flee, let her stand on a Block or Billet cased.

In the same manner Mew Goshhawks and Spar­row Hawks, only they are not to be born on the Fist, but be at liberty in the Mew.

About fifteen or twenty days before you 50 draw your Hawk out of the Mew, abate her Diet, the sooner and better to Enseam her; and she must be fed with washt Meat, to prevent ma­ny Diseases that may ensue.

Diseases and Infirmities incident to the Legs and Feet.

HAWKS are oft troubled with outward 60 Infirmities in their Feet and Legs, which proceeds as well from their Keepers negligence, as otherwise; and that occasioned by setting them on the cold Ground, or in moist and damp places when they are heated by flying, or by feeding them with cold Meat which creates Diseases; also by Pricks of Bushes and Thorns as they fly after their Game, or for not rolling or lining the Perch with soft warm Cloth; for pre­vention of which be sure, that after her flying to quiet her on your Fist, and not on the Ground; for if you use her not to the Ground, she will not expect it.

When you find she has the Cramp in her Legs, take some Piony-Roots, dry them, and hang them in a little Bag all Night about her Neck, and by Day let it be held often to her Nares to smell unto.

If any Knots or Knobs hard or soft do rise on her Feet or Legs, stay not till they are ripe, but forthwith open them to the bottom with a sharp Knife the long way of the Leg, and not cross the Sinews, neither too deep, but enough to take away the corrupt Flesh or Skin, which is of a spungy, hollow substance: Then take some of the Water prescribed for the Frownce, and wash it there­with until it is cured. Some are of Opinion, not to open the Knots or Knobs at all, but only to anoint them with some mollifying Oyntment, and bind it over with a fine Rag.

If your Hawk hath got the Pin in her Feet, cast her gently and cut out the Core or Corn which ariseth in the Balls of the Feet of unquiet Hawks, whilst they are in the Mew; then have in a readiness a Plaister to apply thereto made of Galbonon, white-Pitch, and Venice-Tur­pentine spread on soft Leather, and so tyed as not to be removed; yet not so strait as to hurt her. She must stand on a Perch soft lined, must be kept warm, and drest three or four times a Week until cured; and for Cure some will set them on Salt; but this is found an utter Enemy to it.

If by Accident your Hawk gets a Sprain in her Feet or Legs, 'tis soon discerned by its heat and burning: For Cure, anoint and rub the place Morning and Evening with Oyl of Exeter, bind­ing about it a fine Cloth dipt in the said Oyl, and keep it warm and supple.

If the Sprain happen to be in any of the Tal­lons or Pounce-Joynts, take a Copeing-Iron, cut the Tallon to the quick, and let out a good quantity of the enflamed corrupt Blood, which otherwise would endanger the loss of her Foot.

You must stay the Blood by Searing the place with some Iron heated in the Fire, and then anoint it with the Oyl of Exeter, tying a Lin­nen-Cloth dipt in the said Oyl about the Sore, and over all the Finger of a Glove, with a Hole for the Tallon to come out; which Finger must be made fast with a drawing Thread, that you may open it every Morning, to convey three or four drops of the Oyl into it; and not to be forced to take it quite off.

If she hath got a Swelling through a Blow, Bruise, or other Accident on her Legs or Feet, Anoint the place with Oyl of Bays and Brandy mixt together, and for want of Oyl of Bays only with Brandy; then tye over it a Cloth dipt in the same, and over all a Leather to keep it warm. In all these cases give rest and due feed­ing, or all will be to little purpose.

Hawks are apt to have the Gout, especially such that are free metled and strong Strikers: [Page 58] waisted, put therein the quantity of a Walnut of Alom, and a spoonful of Honey; let all boyl a little, and put it up for your use. With this Water lukewarm anoint with a Feather the parts afflicted, and it will strengthen any Feather, though never so bruised.

Diseases in the Head.10

THese Diseases do commonly come by giving them too great Gorges, and by foul feed­ing; for when she has too full a Gorge she can't well put it over, and endew it, and by lying there too long doth corrupt and stink, especially in those that are low and poor; and by reason of its so lying in the Pannel, Fumes ascend up into the Head, and so close and shut up her Ears, and the passages of her Pipes and Head that occasions swellings there.20

Of the Apoplex, or Falling-Evil, in the Head.

THis Disease commonly befals Hawks, by reason of too much Grease and store of Blood, or for that they have been set too long in the heat of the Sun, or have made too long a flight in the Heat of the Day, and forasmuch as 30 as they are accustomed to be full of Grease in the Mew. Therefore it is very good to give them, when they are empty above, a little Lard or sweet Butter soaked in Rose-Water, with a little Sugar-Candy beaten; but above all, 'tis good to draw their Meat through Black-Cherry-Water.

Of Apostumes in the Head.40

HAWKS are troubled with Swellings in their Head, which is an ill Disease, and occasioned by divers ill Humors and the heat of the Head. It is discerned by the swelling of the Eyes, by the moisture that comes from their Ears, and by their slothfulness. For Cure give them three or four Mornings (when they have no Meat to put over) a Pill of Butter as big as a Nut, well washt in Rose-Water, and mixt with Hony of Roses and fine Sugar. They must be 50 held on the Fist until they have made one or two Mewts; Then take four Drams of Rue-seed, two Drams of Aloes-Epatick, and one Scruple of Saffron; all which beat to fine Powder, and mix with the Hony of Roses to make a Pill, which give them, and it will purge and scour their Heads, and about two hours after give them some good hot Meat.

When the Nares of your Hawk are stuft up with filth, after a convenient Scouring, take 60 Pepper and Mustard-seed beaten to fine Powder, and put it into a clean Linnen-Cloth, and steep it a good space in strong White-Wine Vinegar, and put some drops thereof upon her Nares, that they may pierce in, which will much scour her Head.

Of the Giddiness of the Head.

THis Disease proceeds from foulness of the Pannel, or from a corrupt and naughty Liver; For Cure, give her a Casting of Cotton, in which wrap up a Scruple of Aloes-Epatick, and two Grains of Cloves; and two hours after her taking it, give her a young Pigeon, or some good Meat.

Of the Haw in the Eye.

THis Disease comes from a Blow, but most commonly by the streightness of the Hood; it is discerned by a Film growing up from the bending of the Break, and covering the Eye by little and little. For Cure, take a small Needle sharp pointed, and being finely Threaded take up the Haw, and neatly cut it with a sharp Knife, but cut it not too much; then wash it with Rose-Water for three or four days toge­ther.

Of Cauterizing Instruments to Sear Hawks in desperate Cures, being the last re­fuge.
[figure]

THe Cauterizing Instruments are made after the fashion of these Figures: That Marked A is to Cauterize the Hawks Head, being round and plain at the top. That Marked B is to Cauterize the Nares, being also round and hol­low at the top. That Marked C is a Cauteri­zing Button to burn and sear the Head; and with that other device on the Back-side, to cut the Skin under the Nares, if need require. That Marked D is to Cauterize and enlarge the Nares, and is therefore made so small and sharp at the point, the better to enter the Nares: And that Marked E is the Cauterizing Knife, useful for di­vers occasions.

These Instruments should be larger or smaller, according to the proportion of the Hawk. Also [Page 59] besides these Tools a Falconer should have a Pair of Scissers, a Splatter, and Cooping-Irons.

Of the Canker that breeds in the Throat, and Tongue of a Hawk.

THis Disease is bred through foul Feeding, and not washing their Meat in cold Water in the Summer, and in warm in the Winter, en­gendring 10 in their Guts a gross slimy Matter, and being moved fumes up into the Head, and so distilling again engenders heat of the Liver, which breaks out in the Throat and Tongue, of which proceeds the Canker: It is easily discerned, for she hath much ado to swallow her Meat, and oft lets it fall. For Cure, take the Oyl of Almonds, or Olives, and anoint the Throat therewith two or three times a day; then give her Sugar, Lard, and Beef-Marrow for three days together, and 20 feed her with Mutton, Pullets, or such like Flesh, dipt in the said Oyl. After this, when you find the Canker white, take a very sharp Knife, and slit or open it along the side of the Tongue, and softly scrape away the Whiteness; then take a little Cotton or Lint to dry up the Blood of her Tongue, and wash her Meat in the said Oyl until she is cured.

Of Broken Wings, Legs and Thighs.30

IF a Hawk breaks her Wing, take Sanguis Draconis, Bole-Almoniack, Gum-Arabick, white Frankinsence, Mastick, and Aloessiccatrine, of each a like quantity, with some fine Meal; of these make a Powder, and temper it with the White of an Egg, and make thereof a Plaister, and when it is right Set, lay on the said Plaister gently, and cross her Wings one over another,40 making her fast that she can't stir it, and re­move not the Plaister in seven or eight days, nor stir the Wing when you lay on a fresh Plaister, and in about fifteen or twenty days it will be healed.

This Medicine serveth for her Wing, if out of Joynt, having first Set it, Splinter it up, and apply the Plaister as aforesaid. The like for the Leg, or any other Limb of her, always ob­serving with great care to keep the place firmly 50 bound (but not too hard) that it doth not come out again in the Dressing, or otherwise, until it will well knit.

Of Ymping Feathers.

IT often falls out, that a Hawk breaks her Wing, and Train-Feathers, so that others must be set in their steads, which is Termed 60 Ymping them; and this is to be done several vvays.

For large Hawks, if the Feather is broak with­in a Fingers Breadth of the Quill, then Shear it off with a pair Scissers, that it may not cleave further; then having a Feather like it, cut the Quill off, and force it together, to enter the broa­ken Quill, anointing it with the Yolk of an Egg, before you thrust it in, or some kind of Semond made for that purpose, so that it may be as it were Grafted into it; and that it may have the better hold, fasten them together, by putting through them the point of a small Feather, as it were a Pin; which hole may be made through them by a Needle.

If a Sarcel, a Flag, or Train-Feather be broken or slived, so as an Ymped Feather can take no hold; then take a Juniper Stick, or the like Wood, and make a small Peg thereof, so as to enter the Quill; then dip one end thereof in Glew, or Semond, and thrust it into the broken Quill, and place it so, as it may be without the Quill, and of a just Size to ansvver the length of the Feather before broken; then put the other end also in the Glew, or Semond, forcing it into the Quill of the Feather, that you have gotten so close, as the one Quill touch the other directly; then fasten and clint both the Quills to the Juniper Peg, with a small Feather as aforesaid.

If the Feathers are broken above the Quill, to­wards the Point of the Feather, two or three Fin­gers Breadth, cut it off with a sharp Penknife slopewise, and cut it in the like manner as you did the other, so as to fit well and close to­gether.

By these Directions joyned with Experience, you may not only prevent, but Cure such Infir­mities as your Hawk is Subject unto by Nature, or wherewith she is troubled by Accident.

I shall therefore Conclude this Chapter, with advise of useing preventing Medicines, that is Care, Diligence, Circumspection, Fair and Gentle Usage, due Feeding, and right giving Stones, and C [...]st­ing, according to the Directions aforesaid; and then you will have little occasion to use any of the Medicines here laid down, although very good in their kind, whereby you will avoid much Trouble and Charge, besides the preserv­ing your Hawks love, and your own Recrea­tion.

CHAP. XXIII.
Concerning the Choice and Vse of Spaniels, their Qualities, Dis­eases, &c. with their Cures.

THough you should have Reclaimed and Mewed your Hawk in all other Points to perfection, and be defective in that of the making her throughly acquainted with your Spaniels, you have bestowed your pains to little or no purpose; forasmuch as Spaniels are the chief Instruments which you are to use in this Recreation, as well for the Springing and Re­trieving of Fowl, as otherwise; for until you have reconciled that natural aversion that Hawks have to Dogs, and brought them to have boldness and confident familiarity to them, as [Page 60] well whilst they are in the midst of them loose, as when on the Fist, you may be said to have a Hawk and no Hawk. Now for the better effecting the same, at every Feeding time after your Hawk is a little acquainted with you, and that she begins to be at command, to under­stand the Lure and your Voice; then draw your Dogs together (at least three Couple) to the end that afterwards she may not take offence; for should you let her see only one or two, she 10 might be brought to be familiar with them, but shy and coy at the approach of a greater num­ber; so that I hold it fit to have at least three Couple, all Staunch and well commanded Dogs, such as have formerly been bred with Hawks; and you must feed your Hawk with these Dogs about you, and now and then at Feeding times have a dead Pelt of some Hen, Pigeon, or the like, in a short Creance; which throw amongst the Dogs, to the intent your Hawk may flee from 20 your Fist, and chop in amongst them and seize thereon, suffering her to plume for some time; then take her to your Fist with some Stump, and soon after throw out the Pelt a second and third time, and continue this practice until she find she may boldly venture on it, and that she per­ceive the Dogs are in more fear of her, than she of them, and it will not be long ere she understands she hath got the Mastery of them.30

Should you have Flown your Hawk without making her thus familiar, and acquainted with the Dogs, 'tis possible, you might have made her go well, and kill vvell; but could not expect her coming again, if there were but one Dog in the Field, for next to a Man, she fears nothing so much as a Dog; and of all Hawks, a Goshawk is the most Coy; therefore when you make her to the Covert at first entrance, use but few Dogs, and and those at good command.

When you have let her go, call in your Dogs 40 behind you, until you have found her, which possibly may be on the Ground, and with the Prey in her Feet; if so, make in unto her, and let her enjoy it in some open smooth place, where she may Plume thereon; then call your Dogs, and let them rustle in and out amongst the Bushes, that she may be acquainted with the Noise and Motion of them. You may then rend the Chaps of the Fowl, to give her Blood in the Throat of the Prey, also open the Brain pan, and give her 50 the Head in her Feet, as before directed; and be sure let no strange Dogs be amongst them.

If in Case your Hawk hath hard Flown a Phea­sant, yet mist, whereupon the Dogs Hunting to retrieve it, find it unable to rise, your best Course is to rebuke away your Dogs, to throw up the Phea­sant a loft, useing your Voice, and let your Hawk truss it; and then call in your Dogs as afore­said.

Spaniels by Nature are very loveing, surpas­sing 60 all other Creatures, for in Heat and Cold, Wet and Dry, Day and Night, they will not for­sake their Master. There are many Prodigious Relations made in several Grave and Credible Authors, of the strange Affections which Dogs have had, as well to their Dead as living Masters; but it is not my Business to take notice of them here, but to apply my self to the Subject in Hand.

The Diseases of Spaniels, and their Cures Of the Mange.

SPaniels, through too much Fat and Rest, or too much Labour and Lea [...]ess, are oft Subject to the Mange, especially if they have not Fresh Water; Now since you know the Cause, it is not hard to prevent it, but being once infected, lose no time to Cure them, for which use this follow­ing Direction. Take one pound of Lord of a Barrow-Hog, four Ounces of Flower of Brim­stone well pulverized, two Ounces of Salt well beaten, the like quantity of Ashes well sifted, three Ounces of common Oyl, Boil all these to­gether in a Kettle very well; and with this Oynt­ment anoint the Dogs Body, all over before a good Fire, two or three times a Day, then wash him over with good strong Lye, and Shift his Kenel often.

There is also a Bread to be made, that is very good to Cure the Mange; and that is of Wheaten Bran, mingled with the Roots, Leaves, and Flow­ers of Agrimonie, beathen or shred very small, and baked; this give the Dog to eat, and let him eat no Meat without it, nor give him any other Bread.

If their Hair comes off, as oft it doth, then Bath them in the Water of Lupines, or Hops; and anoint them with Stale Barrows Lard.

If these Medicines will not do, then use this that is more strong, take two Quarts of strong Whitevvine Vineger, six Ounces of common Oyl, three Ounces of Brimstone, six Ounces of Soot, and two Handfuls of beaten Salt; Boil all these together in the Vineger, and Bath the Dog therewith, as before directed.

Of the Formica, and the Cure.

IN Summer time Dogs are troubled with sore Ears, occasioned by Files, and their own scraping and scratching them with their Feet; For Cure, take four Ounces of Gum Dragaganth, which infuse in strong Wine Vineger for a Week, then Bruise it well, and put thereto Roch Allom and Galls beaten to Powder, of each two Ounces. These Ingredients being well mixt, apply to the place grieved.

Of Swelling in their Throat and Neck.

SOmetimes there falleth, or distilleth down a sharp, salt, thim Rhume from their Brain, by which means their Throats and Necks do much swell; for Cure, anoint the place with Oyl of Ca­momile, and wash the Throat with weak Vinegar and Salt.

Of Worms Breeding in the Hart, and Man­gy places of Dogs.

IF your Spaniel receive hurt, if he can but lick the place, it will be whole vvithout any Medicine, but if he can't, he must be assisted, by strevving on the place some Povvder of Matre­silva, dried in an Oven, or in the Sun.

Sometimes there vvill engender little Worms in 10 the Wounds, vvhich doth much retard their Re­covery, nay, rather render them vvorse and vvorse; To Remedy this Evil, put into the Wound a little Gum of Ivy, and let it continue therein a Day or more, then vvash the place vvith Whitewine, and so dress it with an Oyntment made of Bacons Grease, Oyl of Earth-Worms, and Rue.

If they are Bit with a Mad Dog, let them three or four times eat of the Broth of Germander, also eating thereof it self. It must be Sodden 20 with Salt and Oyl, and so given in little Pellets.

If Worms be within the Body, give them fast­ing the Yolk of an Egg, with about two Scru­ples of Saffron, keeping him fasting till the next Morning.

All Spaniels have a certain String under their Tongues, by most called a Worm; this must be taken out when they are about two Months Old, with the help of a sharp Knife to slit it, and a Shomakers Aul to raise it up. Be careful to take 30 all out, else your pains is to little purpose; for till then he will hardly be ever fat or right, in regard the Worm, or String will grow Foul and Troublesom, and hinder his Rest and Eating.

To Recover a Spaniels Smelling.

IT oft falls out, that Spaniels through too much Grease and Rest, do lose their Smelling, so 40 that they can't Retrive or Spring their Game. In this Case prepare this following Purge. Take two Drams of Agaric, one Scruple of Sal Gemma, beat them to Powder, and mix them with Oxymel, and give a Pill about the bigness of a small Nut; and that it may the better slip down, wrap it up in Fresh Butter; for he will hardly take it but by force.

Several things to be observed in Spaniels.50

THe best way to breed Spaniels is to let their Dams be about two years old, and that they may Litter about March; and kill all the Puppies but four or five. Your Dog should be a­bout six or seven years old. The first Litter is to be esteemed the best; yet some prefer the se­cond and third for the best. The Names of your Spaniels should be short, and Monosillables, that they may be the better and quicker understood. It 60 is left to your own discretion to have any of the Dogs gelt, or the Bitches spaid: But if in case you do so, let it be done whilst they are young; for such are not apt to be lost by stragling away.

For divers Reasons it is necessary to cut off the top of the Spaniel's Stern or Tail whilst he is a Whelp, for it hinders the breeding of Worms there: Also if it is taken off he will be more for­ward to press into the Covert after the Game; be­sides he is more graceful with a short Stern, as Grey-hounds and Hounds are with theirs long.

Instead of cutting off the Stern, it is better to twist it off, which must be done whilst they are sucking: And if thus pulled off, there is a string that comes out with it which doth much hinder their madness.

Thus much concerning Land Spaniels; I shall only add a few Lines of Advice, and so end this Chapter.

Every Gentleman, whose Genius leads him to this delightful Recreation, should apply and en­ure himself as well to look into the ordering and right managing his Hawk, as into their [...]ying. He should as well observe them in the House as in the Field: For a Gentleman to have but one Hawk, is to have as it were none; and to have a great many is to be a Falconer, and not a Gentleman. He that keeps one, and no more, must be forced to leave all other Affairs to see her flee at such time that she is in a condition to flee, and that per­adventure may not be above twice a Week, in re­gard of such Accidents that oft-times intervene. I should therefore advise you to keep a Cast; for the same Charge that keeps one will keep two; and five or six couple of Spaniels are enough, which should be of a middle size, rather fat than lean, which are better for use, and more creditable: Besides, the lean ones are subject to many Di­seases.

With this Equipage a Gentleman may so manage his Pleasure, as to render it rather profitable than chargeable unto him.

CHAP. XXIV.
Certain Terms of Art used in Fal­conry, with an Explanation there­of, Alphabetically set down.

ARms, are the Legs from the Foot to the Thigh.

Bate, or Bateth, is a Term when a Hawk flut­tereth with her Wings from the Perch or Fist, in­deavouring to fly away.

Bathing, is when she washeth her self.

Beak, is the upper crooked part of the Bill.

The Beam Feathers, are the long Feathers in the Wings.

Beavy, of Quails, that is a Brood of young ones.

Bewits, are the Leathers with Bells buttoned a­bout her Legs.

Bowet, is when a young Hawk draws any thing out of her Nest, and indeavours to get on the Bows.

Bowsing, is when she oft drink, and yet desires more.

Brayle, is a piece of Leather slit to put upon her Wing to tye it up.

[Page 62] Brancher is a young Hawk newly taken out of the Nest, and can hop from bough to bough.

Cage is that on which the Hawks are carried, when they are exposed to sale.

Cancellaring, that is stooping.

Carry is a Term when the Hawk flees away with the Quarry.

A Cast of Hawks are two.

Casting is when you give her any thing to purge or cleanse her Gorge. 10

Cateract is a Disease in the Eyes of a Hawk.

Cauterizing Irons are used to sear with.

Cawking time, that is Treading or Coupling time.

Check is when she forsakes her proper Game, and flies at Crows, Pyes, or the like, that crosseth her in her flight.

Clap is the neither part of the Beak.

Coping is paring.

Coping Irons are used for coping or paring her 20 Beak, Pounces, or Tallons when over-grown.

Cowring is when they quiver and shake their Wings in testimony of obedience toward the old ones.

Covey of Partridges, that is, a Brood that al­ways accompany together with the old ones until paring time.

Crabing is when Hawks standing near one ano­ther, fight.

Cray is a Disease in a Hawk. 30

Creance is a long Line of small fine even Pack­thread that is fastned to the Hawks Lease when she is first Lured.

Crivets are the small black Feathers like hairs about the Sear or Eyelids.

Crock is a Disease in a Hawk.

Disclosed is when the young ones just peep through the Shells.

Dropping is when she Mewteth downwards in several drops, and not yerking it strait forwards.40

Endew is when she digesteth her Meat, not only discharging her Gorge thereof, but also cleanseth her Pannel.

Engouteth, that is, the Feathers to have black spots.

Enseame is the purging her of her Glut and Grease.

Enter a Hawk is a Term used when she begins first to kill.

Eyess is a young Hawk newly taken out of the 50 Nest.

Eyrie is the place where they build and hatch their young.

Feaking is wiping her Beak after feeding.

Filander is a Disease in a Hawk so called.

Flags are the Feathers next the principal Fea­thers in her Wings.

Flyon Head, that is, missing her Quarry, and betaking her self to the next Check, as Crows, Pyes, &c.

Formale is the Female Hawk. 60

Formica is a Disease so called.

Frownce is a Disease so called.

Gleam is a Term used after a Hawk hath Cast, and Gleamish, or throweth up filth from her Gorge.

Glut is the slimy substance that lies in the Pan­nel.

Gorge is the Craw or Crop of other Fowl.

Gurgiping is when she is stuft up.

Hack is a place where her Meat is put.

Hack Hawk, that is, a Tackler.

Haggard is a Hawk that has preyed for her self, and taken after Lent.

Jack is the Male Hawk.

Jesses are the short straps of Leather that are fastned to her Legs, and so to the Lease by the Varvils.

Imp is to put in a Feather into the Wing in the place of one broken.

Juke is the Neck from the Head to the Body of any Bird that she preyeth upon.

Inter-Mewing is from the first exchange of her Coat till she turn white.

Jouketh is when she sleepeth.

Lean is when she holds in to you.

Lease or Leach is the small long Leather thong fastned to the Jesses by which she is held fast on the Fist, as being wrapt about the Fingers.

Lure is that which the Falconers cast up to bring down the Hawk.

A Make Hawk or Quarry Hawk, is an old Staunch Hawk that is made use of to enter young ones.

Mailes are the Breast Feathers.

Manning is making a Hawk endure Company.

Mantleth is when she stretcheth one Wing after her Legs, and so the other.

Mew is the place where she is set down during the time she raiseth her Feathers.

Mewting is the dung of long winged Hawks.

The Nares are little holes in her Beak.

Pannel is the Pipe next the Fundament where she digesteth her Meat from her Body.

Pantas is a Disease so called.

Perch is where she is set to rest on.

Pelt is the dead Body of any Fowl she has kil­led.

The Pendant Feathers are those behind the Thighs.

Petty Singles are the Toes of the Hawk.

Pill or Pelf, is that which she leaveth of her prey after she is relieved.

The Pin is a Disease so called.

Plume is the general mixture of Colours and Feathers, by which the constitution of a Hawk is known.

Plumage are the small Feathers given the Hawk to make her Cast.

Pluming is after she has seiz'd her prey, and dis­mantles it of her Feathers.

Pounces are her Claws.

Poult, that is, killing Poultrey.

Pride, that is, to be in good flesh and heart.

Pruneth is when she picketh her self.

Putover is a Term used when she removeth her Meat from her Gorge into her Bowels, by tra­versing with her Body, but chiefly with her Neck.

Quarry is the Fowl she flyeth at, either dead or alive.

Quarry Hawk is an old entred and reclaimed Hawk.

Rake is a Term when she flies out too far from the Game.

Ramage or Soar is when she can flee, having preyed for her self.

[Page 63] Rangle is when she has Gravel given her to bring her to a Stomach.

Reclaim is to make her gentle and familiar.

Retrieve is when Patridges, having been sprung, are to find again.

Rouze is when she lifts her self up, and shakes her self.

Ruff is when she hits the prey, and doth not truss it.

Rufter-hood is a large, wide, and easie Hood, o­pen 10 behind, being the first that is made use of.

Rye is a Disease so called.

Sails are the Wings of a Hawk.

Sear is the yellow betwixt the Beak and the Eyes.

Seeling is when she is first taken, is blinded with a Thread run through the Eyelids, that she seeth but little, or not at all, that she may the better indure the Hood.

Seizing is when she gripes the prey with her 20 Tallons.

Setting down is when she is put into the Mew.

Slice is when she Mewteth a good distance from her.

Sliceth is the dung of a short winged Hawk.

Slimeth is when she Mewteth without droping.

Staunch Hawk is one well entred for the Game.

Stooping is when she is aloft upon the Wing, and descends to strike the Game.

Summed is when she is in all her Plumes. 30

Swivel is that which keepeth a Hawk from twisting.

Tassel is the Male Hawk.

Tiring is when you give her the Leg or Pinion of a Pigeon, or the like, to pluck at.

Towreth is when she lifts up her Wings.

Train is the Tail of the Hawk.

A Train is something live or dead tyed to the Lure, to intice her to it.

Trussing is vvhen she raiseth a Fowl aloft, and 40 soaring vvith it, at length descends vvith it to the Ground.

Vervels are little silver Rings at the end of Jesses, on vvhich the Ovvners Name is engra­ven.

Vnreclaimed is vvhen she is vvild.

Vnstrike the Hood is to dravv the strings, that it may be in readiness to pull off.

Vnsumed is when the Feathers are not fully grown.50

Vrives are Nets to Catch Hawks with

Weathering, is the Airing your Hawk.

CHAP. XXV.
An Abstract of the Statutes relating to Hawking.

STat. 11. Hen. 7. Chap. 17. It is enacted, that none shall take out of the Nest any Eggs of a Hawk, or Swan, on pain of a Year and a Days Imprisonment, besides to incur a Fine at the Kings pleasure, to be divided betwixt the King, and the owner of the Ground, where such Eggs are so ta­ken.

None shall take away any Hawk of English Breed called an Eyess, on pain of the like Forfei­ture to the King.

He that brings an Eyess from beyond Sea, shall bring a Certificate under the Customers Seal where he Lands, or if out of Scotland, then under the Seal of the Lord Warden, or his Lieutenant, to Testifie▪ she is a Foreign Hawk, upon pain of for­feiture of the said Hawk.

None shall take away any Hawk from their Coverts, where they use to Breed, on pain of 10 l. to be divided betwixt the King and the Prose­cutors, by the Justices of the Peace.

Stat. 34. Edw. 3. Chap. 22. A Hawk that is found, shall be delivered to the Sheriff of the Country, where it is found; and shall make Proclamation at the Market Towns, that the owner may come to have notice thereof; and if a Poor Man comes to find her, and she be not challen­ged in four Months, the Sheriff shall detain her, paying the Party for taking her up. And if any take away or Conceal a Hawk, he shall answer the value to the owner when claimed, and suffer two Years Imprisonment; and if he is not able to satisfie the value, he shall remain in Prison a longer time.

Stat. 37. Edw. 3. Chap. 19. He that Steals and carries away a Hawk, not observing the Ordinance of 34 Edw. 3. Chap. 22. as aforesaid, shall be deem­ed a Felon.

A TABLE of the Heads of Things treated of in the respective Chapters in this Treatise of Hawking.

Chap. I.
  • THe Introduction, shewing the Nobleness and Antiquity of the Art. Page 27
Chap. II.
  • The several sorts of Hawks in general. ib.
Chap. III.
  • The Gerfalcon, her Nature, Shape, &c. 28
Chap. IV.
  • The Falcon, or Slight Falcon, her Nature, Shape, &c. ib.10
Chap. V.
  • The Lanner, her Shape, Nature, &c. ib.
Chap. VI.
  • The Merlyn, her Nature, Shape, &c. 30
Chap. VII.
  • The Hobby, her Nature, Shape, &c. 31
Chap. VIII.
  • The Bawrel, her Shape, Nature, &c. 32
Chap. IX.
  • The Castrel, her Nature, Shape, &c. ib. 20
Chap. X.
  • The Goshawk, her Nature, Shape, &c. with such things as relate to the ordering and fleeing her, ib.
  • Partridge Hawking. 33
  • Directions for keeping and reclaiming her, as also how to Mew and draw her out of the Mew, and make her flying. ib.
  • Concerning Castings. 34
  • How she ought to be called Loose, and taught to 30 draw, and in what places. ib.
  • Pheasant Hawking, with Directions how to enter her to the Covert for Pheasants. ib.
  • How to reclaim and order an Eyess Hawk. 35
Chap. XI.
  • The Sparrow Hawk, its Nature, Shape, &c. with Rules to order, feed, and make her. 36
Chap. XII.
  • Rules to be observed for reclaiming the Haggard Fal­con, with Instructions to enter her to the Lure; 40 which directions will serve for all long winged Hawks, except the Merlin. 37
  • Further Rules for Reclaiming and Manning a Hawk, and entring her to be acquainted with the Spani­els. 39
  • Rules to Reclaim Hawks brought from the Cage, and how to Hood them. 40
  • To help a Hawk that is coy and fearful. 41
Chap. XIII.
  • How to Enseame a Falcon with her Castings and 50 Scowrings. ib.
Chap. XIV.
  • Rules for bathing a Hawk. 42
Chap. XV.
  • To make a Hawk bold and hardy, &c. ib.
  • To make her Disgorge her self. ib.
  • To remedy a Hawks ill quality of fleeing to a Tree, and stand and Gorge. ib.
Chap. XVI.
  • Directions for feeding Hawks. 43 60
Chap. XVII.
  • Hern Hawking. ib.
Chap. XVIII.
  • Brook Hawking. 44
  • A Flight for a Falcon to the River. ib.
  • To make a Hawk inward of the River, when she raketh out. ib.
  • To keep a Hawk high Flying. ib.
  • To make a Hawk fond of the Lure. 45
Chap. XIX.
  • Rules for Ordering Hawks in the Mew. ib.
  • Of Mewing at the Stock. 47
Chap. XX.
  • Necessary Rules for a Falconer to observe. ib.
Chap. XXI.
  • Terms of Art in Falconry. 48
Chap. XXII.
  • Diseases of Hawks, with proper Medicines for their Cares. ib.
  • Scowring and Purging Medicines, with Instructions to judge thereof, by their Castings and Mewts. ib.
  • Of Worms. 51
  • Of the Filander, or Back-worm. ib.
  • Rules to keep a Hawk in Health. ib.
  • To preserve a Hawk in the time of her Flying, and to keep her in Health. 52
  • To help a Hawk that endueth not, nor putteth over as she ought. ib.
  • Directions to preserve a Goshawk, in the time of her Fleeing; especially in hot Weather. ib.
  • To raise a Hawk that is poor and low. ib.
  • Of the Frownce. ib.
  • Of the Pin. ib.
  • Of the Pantas. 53
  • Of the Crock and the Cramp. ib.
  • Of the Rye. ib.
  • Of the Cray. 54
  • Diseases of the Liver and Stomach. ib.
  • To comfort and preserve the Heart from any Infir­mity proceeding from Heat. 55
  • If the Head be stuft with a Cold. ib.
  • To Scowr a Hawk before she is cast into the Mew. ib.
  • Diseases and Infirmities of the Feet and Legs. ib.
  • Diseases in the Eyes. 56
  • Concerning the Gorge. ib.
  • Biting by a mad Dog. ib.
  • Of the Falling Sickness. 57
  • Of Lice, &c. ib.
  • Of Mewting. ib.
  • Of the Formica. ib.
  • Of Fistula's and Ulcers. ib.
  • Of Itching and salt Humours. ib.
  • Diseases in the Head. 58
  • Of the Apoplexy, or Falling-Evil in the Head. ib.
  • Of Apostumes in the Head. ib.
  • Of Gidiness in the Head. ib.
  • Of the Haw in the Eye. ib.
  • [Page] Of Cauterizing Instruments. ib.
  • Of the Canker in their Throat and Tongue. 59
  • Of broken Wings, Legs and Thighs. ib.
  • Of Ymping Feathers. ib.
Chap. XXIII.
  • Concerning the choice and use of Spaniels. ib.
  • The Diseases of Spaniels and their Cures: The Mange. 60
  • Of the Formica, and the Cure. ib. 10
  • Of Swellings in their Throat and Neck. ib.
  • Of Worms breeding in the hurt and Mangy places of Dogs. 61
  • To Recover a Spaniels Smelling. ib.
  • Several things to be observed in Spaniels. ib.
Chap. XXIV.
  • Certain Terms of Art used in Falconry Alpha­betically set down, with an Explanation thereof. ib.
Chap. XXV.
  • An Abstract of the Penal Statutes relating to Hawking. 63

To the Rt. Worshipfull Sr. Henry Pickering of Whaddon in Cam­bridgeshire Baronet▪ This Plate is humbly dedicated by Richard Blome.

HUNTING.

PART III.
Treats of the several Sorts of Hounds; with Directions to Breed, Manage and Enter them for the several Games. The Disposal of a Dog-Kennel, for the most Commodiousness; with Directions to Feed and Order them. The Diseases incident to Hounds, with Instructions how to Cure them. The several Sorts of Deer, with the proper Terms and Ways used in Hunting them; with the Vse of the Blood-Hound. Of the Hunting the Fox, Badger, Otter, Wild-Bore, &c. Of the Hare, and how to Hunt or Course her with Hounds or Grey-Hounds, according to the Season of the Year. How to Take the Fox, Otter, Badger, Hare, Coney; as also the Polecat, Fitchet, &c. with Nets, Traps, Snares, Engines, and the like. Illustrated with variety of Figures.

CHAP. I.
The Introduction.

MANY have written of this Subject, as well the Ancient as the Modern, yet but few of our Countrymen to any 10 purpose; and had One all the Authors on this Subject (as indeed on any other) there would be more trouble to pass by than to retain, most Books being fuller of Words than Matter, and that which is for the most part very erronious. I shall endeavour to treat of such things as are experimentally found necessary by the most ex­pert Sports-Men in this Age, and with what brevity is convenient, applying my self to the Age, as well as to the Place we live in; not 20 troubling the Reader with the Hunting of the Ancients, or of other Countries much different from ours; (except of the Wild-Boar, which be­ing so Noble a Chase in Germany, and some other Parts, although we have none amongst us; yet I shall give you a brief Account of the Hunting him.)

The Intent therefore of this Treatise shall be, to set forth the several ways of taking Four-footed Beasts, as well those that are hurtful, as such as serve for our nourishment; and that not only by Dogs, but by Nets, Traps, Engines, Snares, and the like, not hitherto treated of by any, especially in our Native Tongue.

To tell you that Hunting is a commendable Recreation, and hath always been practised and highly prized by all Degrees and Qualities of Men, even by Kings and Princes; that it is a great preserver of Health, a Manly Exercise, and an increaser of Activity; that it recreates the Mind, strengthens the Limbs, and whets the Stomach; and that no Musick is more charming to the Ears of Man, than a Pack of Hounds in full Cry is to him that delights in Hunting, is to tell you that which experimentally is known, and what hath been sufficiently treated of by others; so that these and the like Encomiums I shall here omit, and proceed to that which is more material.

I shall first treat of Dogs, so far forth as they are used in this Exercise, laying down Rules how to Train them up; to Breed, Nourish, Heal, Keep and Instruct them, together with many other Particulars: In all which the Table of the several [Page 68] Chapters at the latter end, may serve for a Thread to guide you through the many Intricacies, Windings and Turnings, which are in this Treatise; and indeed it can't otherwise be, if the Subject whereon it treats is considered: However, I shall endeavour to lay down every thing for the greatest advantage for your ready apprehension, and yet without circumlocution; a [...] short Chase being the most profitable and pleasant.10

CHAP. II.
Of DOGS or HOVNDS.

THey who undertake to distinguish Hounds by their Colours, do but trifle away their 20 time, it being no inherent quality or ingredient towards the making any thing good and useful; but the Proportions, Sizes, and Features are to be enquired after.

Your large, tall and big Hounds, called and known by the name of the Deep-mouthed, or Southern-mouthed Hound, are heavy and slow, and sit for Woodlands and Hilly-Countreys; they are of deep Mouths and swift Spenders; they are generally higher behind than before, with thick 30 and short Legs, and are generally great of Body and Head, and are most proper for such as de­light to follow them on Foot, as Stop-Hunting, as some call it; but by most it is termed Hunting under the Pole; that is, they are brought to that exactness of Command, that in their hottest Scent and fullest Chase, if one but step before them or hollow, or but hold up or throw be­fore them the Hunting-Pole, they will stop at an instant, and Hunt in Full Cry after you at your 40 own pace, until you give them encouragement by the Word of Command, which much adds to the length of the Sport, and pleasure of the Hunters, so that a Course oft-times lasts five or six hours.

Opposite to the Deep-mouthed or Southern-Hound, are the long and slender Hounds, called the Fleet or Northern-Hound, which are very swift, as not being of so heavy a Body, nor hath such large Ears. These will exercise your 50 Horses and try their strength; they are proper for open, level and Champain Countreys, where they may run in view and full Speed; for they Hunt more by the Eye than the Nose, and will run down the Game in an hour, and sometimes in less; that is, a Hare; but the Fox will exer­cise them better and longer.

Between these two Extreams, there are a mid­dle sort of Dogs which partakes of both their qualities, as to strength and swiftness, in a rea­sonable 60 proportion; they are generally bred by crossing the Strains, and are excellent in such Countreys as are mixt; viz. Some Mountains, some Enclosures, some Plains, and some Wood-lands; for they will through thick and thin, neither need you help them over Hedges, as you are often forced to do by others.

A true right shaped Deep-mouthed Hound should have a round thick Head, wide Nostrils, open and rising upwards, his Ears large and thin, hanging lower than his Chaps; the flews of his Upper Lips should be longer than those of his Neither Chaps; the Chine of his Back great and thick, strait and strong, and rather bending out than inclining in; his Thighs well trussed; his Haunches large; his Fillets round and large; his Tail or Stern strong set on, waxing Taper­wise towards the top; his Hair under his Belly rough and long; his Legs large and lean; his Feet dry and hard, with strong Claws and high Knuckles. In the whole, he ought to be of so just a Symetry, that when he stands level you may not discern which is highest, his Fore or Hinder parts.

For the Northern or Fleet-Hound, his Head and Nose ought to be slenderer and longer, his Back broad, his Belly gaunt, his Joynts long, and his Ears thicker and shorter: in a word, he is in all parts slighter made, and framed after the Mould of a Greyhound.

By crossing these Breeds, as aforsaid, you may bring your Kenel to such a composure as you think fit, every Mans fancy being to be pre­ferred; and you know the Old saying.

So many Men, so many Minds;
So many Hounds, so many Kinds.

The Blood-Hound is of all Colours; but for the generality of a black Brown, and Reddish in several places, especially on the Breast and on the Cheeks; they have long and thin hanging-down Ears, and differ from other Dogs only in their Cry and Barking. Being set on by the Voice or Words of their Keeper, to seek about for Game; and having found it, will never leave off the pursuit until it be tyred; nor will he change it for any other fresh Game that he should meet with; and they are observed to be very obedient to their Masters.

These Hounds are of that property, that they do not only keep to their Game whilst living, but being by any accident wounded or dead, will find it out; and that by the Scent of the Blood sprinkled here and there upon the Ground, which was shed in its pursuit, by which means Deer-Stealers are oft-times found out.

Not much unlike these Blood-Hounds, is the Sluth or Suit Hound in Scotland, which Hunts only by the scent of the Footing; and these sort of Hounds are made use of for the finding out Thieves, be­ing of a very quick Scent, and eager in their pursuit, no River obstructing them. And these sorts make the best and surest Blood Hounds.

BEAGLES.

THere are several sorts of Beagles; viz. the Southern-Beagle, which is something less than the Deep-mouthed Hound, and something thicker and shorter.

The Fleet, Northern or Cat-Beagle is smaller, of a finer shape than the Southern-Beagle, and are hard Runners.

[Page 69] These two Beagles by crossing the Strains, breeds an excellent sort, which are great Kil­lers.

There is also a very small sort of Beagle, not exceeding the bigness of a Ladies Lap-Dog, which makes pretty diversion for the Coney, as also for the Hare, if the Weather be dry; but the small­ness of these makes them not serviceable.

The TERRIER or HARRIER.10

THis is a very small Dog, and used for the Hunting the Fox or Badger, his business being to go into their Earths, and to Bay them; that is, to keep them in an Angle (a Foxes Earth having divers) whilst they are dug out; for by their Baying or Barking 'tis known where­abouts the Fox is, that he may be the better dug out. And for this use the Terrier is very serviceable, being of an admirable Scent to find 20 him out.

They commonly have a Couple of Terriers, to the end that they may put in a fresh one to re­lieve the first.

A Dog bred out of a Beagle, and a Mungril-Mastiff generally proves a good Terrier, having a thick Skin and a good Courage, as partaking of the Mastiff, and is well Mouthed from the Bea­gle. 30

The TVMBLER and LIRCHER.

THe Tumbler is a small sized Dog, generally White, with some black Spots, hath one Eye bigger than the other, and is a well trust Dog. He is a Creature of great craft and sub­tilty; for in the Hunting his Game, which is the Coney, he useth great Policy; being called Tumb­lers from their nature and quality of Tumbling, 40 and winding themselves in Hunting and Taking their Game.

When this Dog is sent or cast off into a War­ren by his Master, who hath fixed his Station in some convenient and private place, which the Dog must be privy to; he seemingly Hunts not after them, but as it were not regarding them, observing their Burrows; and when he meeteth with a place where there are Coneys, he coucheth down close with his Belly to the ground, and so 50 ordereth his business that the Wind is against him, and that the Coneys do not discover him, by which means he gets the Scent of them, and gets betwixt them and their Burrows, and so they soon become his Prey; and so soon as caught, being so well educated that he carrieth it to his Master, and returneth again to his business, as aforesaid; and using such like Subtilties, in a short time will catch a sufficient quantity, provided there be Game. 60

The Lircher is a sort of Dog much like a Mun­gril Greyhound, with prick Ears, hath generally a shagged Coat, and is of a yellowish white Colour. They are very Nimble Runners, for if they get but betwixt the Burrows and the Coneys, they seldom miss; and this is their usual way of Hunting, yet they use some other Subtilties as the Tumbler; some of these Dogs will bring their Game as the Tumblers, and those are the best. The Lircher will Run down the Hare at Stretch.

The GREYHOVND.

THis Sort of Dog of all others, is for swift­ness of Foot and Neatness of Shape to be preferred before all others. But there being a Chapter relating only to Greyhounds, I shall not say more of him here, referring you to the said Chapter, where he is Treated of, with Rules for Coursing with him.

Thus having given you a Brief Account of the several sorts of Hounds, and Dogs used in Hunting, I shall add a word or two to tell you, that Lancashire with other Woodland and Moun­tainous Conntries Breed the Large, tall and heavy Hounds; that Bedfordshire, and many other Coun­tries that have a well mixt Soil, both of Cham­pain and Covert Breed a Middle-Sized Hound, and of a more nimble Foot; and that the Nor­thern parts Breed the Fleet, and Slender Hound.

The next thing to be be Treated of, shall be the Breeding of Hounds, the Disposal of the Kennel, with Rules for Feeding and Entring them▪

CHAP. III.
Of Breeding of Hounds, the dis­posal of the Kennel, with Directi­ons for the Feeding and Entring Hounds, and how they ought to be Ordered.

THose that would have Fair Hounds, must choose Fair Bitches, and such as are strong, and well proportioned in all Parts, with great and large Ribs and Flanks.

The best Season to let your Hounds Couple in, is in January, February, and March, for then they will Litter in a good time of the Year, (that is, in the Spring) so that they will be fit to enter in due Course, without loss of time, or loss of the Season; for if they Litter in the Winter, it is very Troublesom to bring up their Whelps, and not without a great deal of Diffi­culty to preserve them from dying, espe­cially of Diseases; for the Cold is a great Ene­my to all young Creatures. Let not your Dogs exceed the Age of five Years, for if they are old (according to the Opinion of many) the Whelps that they get, will prove dull and heavy. And you should be very careful to get good Dogs, for your Bitches at their first growing Proud; for some have observed, that if it be a Mastiff, Greyhound, or Hound that first Lineth her, in all her Litters, that she shall afterwards have, she is said to have one of her Whelps to Resemble [Page 70] the Dog, that first Lined her. And although the first Litter of Whelps is not of so much esteem, as the second or third, as being more weak and small, yet be sure to have a good fair Hound to Line her at first.

When a Bitch is Proud, 'tis not good to cool her in the Water, for that doth congeal the Blood within her Veins and Arteries, and cause Man­giness, also Gripes in the Belly, with other Dis­eases. 10

When your Bitches begin to be pretty big with Whelp, let them not Hunt, or use violent Exer­cise, whereby to occasion the casting her Whelps, but Feed them well, preparing clean and private places for them, and keep them therein for a few days, to the end they may be accustomed thereunto.

Your Bitches having Littered, 'tis good to choose those that you intend to keep, and to drown the rest; and in making choise of the best, there 20 is some difficulty; some are of Opinion, that those that are lightest whilst they suck, will prove the Swiftest and Best, but not the Stron­gest; others say that the Whelp that seeth last, is the best; and others are of Opinion, that to remove the Whelps, and lay them in several pla­ces, and watch the Bitch, and that which she carrieth to her Kennel first, is the best.

Be sure to give good fresh Straw to them, which must be often changed; let them not lye 30 in the Sunshine, or where Rain may wet them, and 'tis good to anoint their Skins once or twice a Week with Nut-Oyl mixt with saffron beaten, which will kill all sorts of Worms, and keep them from the biting of Flies. When the Whelps are about fifteen days Old, Worm them, and about a Week after, cut or wind off one joynt of their Sterns, when they can see give them Milk to lap; and about two Months Old, 'tis time to Wean them, keeping them from their Dam; and 40 'tis good to keep them well, but not too high Fed; and to prevent Wind in their Bellies, put Cumminseed now and then in their Bread.

If you would have your Bitches grow Proud, take half a Castors Stone, two Heads of Gar­lick, the Juice of Cressies, and a little Cantha­radice, boil these together with Mutton in Water, and the Broth made thereof being given twice or thrice, will work the effect, the like it will do being given Dogs, to make them desirous of Bitch­es. 50

If you would spay a Bitch, 'tis good to do it after she hath had Whelps, or when she is Proud, but not before; and in spaying her, be sure take not away all the Strings or Roots of the Veins, for that will much prejudice her as to her strength and swiftness.

Of the Disposal of a Kennel, and how it ought to be situated for the conveniency 60 of the Hounds, with Directions how to feed and order them.

TO the making a compleat Kennel, these three Conveniencies ought to be considered, viz. sweet Air, fresh Water, and the Morning Sun. I shall lay down some Rules for your In­struction therein: Your Court should be large, for the more spacious it is, the better it will be for the Hounds to refresh them in; and it should be well walled or fenced about to prevent their get­ting out, but not so high to keep out the Sun or Wind. The Water, if possible, should run through some part of the Court or Yard; or for want thereof a Well with a large Stone Trough a­bout a Foot and a half high, always kept with fresh Water, to the end your Hounds may drink when they please: And at one end of the Trough there must be a hole to let out the Water for the cleansing it. In the highest part of the Court let the Kennel be built, in which should be two Rooms, one of which should be larger than the other, with a large Chimney to make a fire when need re­quires: This Room should be raised about three Foot from the Ground, and in the Floor should be two Gutters for the conveyance of the Piss: There must be dispersed up and down small Bed­steads raised about a Foot from the Floor, with holes pierced through the Planks for the drayning away their Piss. The other Room must be for the Huntsman to keep his Poles, Whips, Liams, Salves, and the like necessaries. There should also be a Copper for the boyling, dressing, and ordering of their Food when they come home wet and weary; for at such times they should be cherish't as In­struments of your Recreation, that they may de­light in your Service, and taste of your Bounty, and then doubt not but to have credit of them in the Field.

Be careful not to give them any thing to drink in Vessels of Copper: And as to the proportion and quality of your Allowance for food, it must be ordered with relation to the Natures of the Hounds, and their sizes. Three Bushels of Oats, with a Bushel and a half of wheat Bran, will keep ten Couple of middle sized Hounds a Week, gi­ving them sometimes Beef-broth, Whey, Flit-milk, Chippings of Bread, Bones, and sometimes a little Horsflesh, for change of Food creates a good Ap­petite, and causeth health. The Oats and Wheat­bran must be boyled and thickned with Milk or Butter-milk, with some Chippings or broken Meat boyled therein.

As concerning Horsflesh, I approve thereof, pro­vided it be given with discretion; and of all sorts Horsflesh is the best and hottest, but be sure to flea or skin them, lest your Dogs discerning the Hair may fall on them when living in the Field. Such Dogs that are accustomed to Hunt the Hare, 'tis not good to give them any Flesh, because it is said to withdraw their Scents or Affections from the Chase, by reason their Flesh is not very sweet, not their Scents very strong.

If your Huntsman perceives that through toyl­some, long, and frequent Chases, the Hounds fall away, he must be the more careful in feeding and cherishing them up with some good Broth, boyled Oxes or Sheeps hearts, &c.

On such days as your Hounds do not Hunt, the best times to feed them are early in the Morning before Sun-rise, and late in the Evening after Sun­set: And on the days they hunt they ought to be Rewarded so soon as they come home, be it when it will, especially at Night with a good Supper; [Page] [Page]

The Antient Hunting Notes of England, with many Folio. [...] new additions together with all theire severall names.

Tone; Ton; Tavon; Tontavon; Tontontavon; Tontontontontavon;

To call the Company in the morneing.

The seaven stroakes to the Feild.

When the Hounds are uncupled & seeke.

When the Hounds hunt a game unknowne.

The Single Recheat.

The Double Recheat.

The Treble Recheat.

The Stroake of eight to draw from ye Covert.

The Earthing of a Fox If recoverable.

If not Recoverable to call away.

The Death of a Hare. TD.

The Death of a Buck. TD.

The Death of a Hart Royall. TD.

The call for a Keeper in parke, chase, or fforrest.

The Death of a Fox in Feild, or covert. T [...]

The pryze of a Hart Royall.

The stroke of nyne to draw home the company.

The stroake of five for the Terriens.

The mount is from party to party every note thryce.

The Runing Recheat.

Another w [...]bling Recheat.

Another Recheat with ye. tongue very hard.

Another Smoother Recheat.

Another w [...]bling Recheat.

The Death of an Otter. TD.

The Death of Roe Buck. TD.

The Death of the Wyld Bore. TD.

The good night, or farwell att parting.

[Page 71] for nothing is a greater discouragement to a Hound, than to go to sleep with an empty Belly after hard labour.

If your Huntsman hath more dead Flesh than he hath present occasion for, he may preserve it sweet a Week or ten days, by sinking it under Ground.

As concerning the entring your Hounds, it is not enough to have them well-bred, with promi­sing Marks and handsome Proportions; but they are to be well instructed how to hunt. 10

When your Whelps are about Seventeen or Eighteen Months old, teach them to take the Water and swim: Also lead them abroad in the Fields in the heat of the day, the better to endure exercise: Also lead them through Flocks of Sheep and Warrens, to bring them to command. They must be also brought to know the Huntsman's voice, their Names, to understand the Horn, and to use their own voices.

HVNTERS Notes.20

FOr your better assistance I have inserted the several Sounds that you are to Wind upon occasion, which are according to the Plate here annexed.

Rules for the Entring your Hounds.

NOw for the very day and time of Entring 30 your Hounds, let it be about Noon in a fair warm Day; for if you enter them in the Morning, when the Heat comes on, they will give out; and take the most advantage you can that your Game may not long stand before them, but that your Hounds may be Rewarded: And thus must you do at least once a Week for about two Months, by which means they will be so fleshed and seasoned with that Game at which you first enter them, that they will not leave off the pur­suit.40 You must also be sure to enter them with the best and staunched Hounds you can procure, and let there not be so much as one barking Curr in the Field.

The Hare is esteemed the best Game to Enter young Hounds at; for whatsoever Chase you de­sign them for, they will thereby learn all Turns and Doubles, and how to come to the Hollow: They will also come to have a perfect Scent and hard Feet, by being used to High-ways, beaten Paths, 50 and dry Hills. At first give them all the advan­tages that may be; and when you start the Hare from her Forme, let the Scent cool a little, obser­ving which way she takes; and then lay on your Hounds with the most advantage and help you can, either of Wind, View, Hollow, or the Prick­ing in her Passage: Nor were it amiss if they had the advantage of a Hare that had been tyred the same Morning by a Course. You must also take care that they hunt fair and even, without lag­ging 60 behind, stragling on either hand, and run­ing wildly on head; and in case you find any committing these Faults, they must be beaten into the rest of the Pack, and forced to take the Scent with the rest: The like must be done if they re­fuse to strike upon a Default, but run on babling and yelping without the Scent, whereby they draw away the rest of the Dogs, until some of the elder Dogs take it; then cherish them with Horn and Hollow.

In case any of your young Whelps, who trusting more to their own Scents than to the rest of the Pack, and consequently are cast be­hind, working out the Defaults by their own Noses, and that they Hunt just and true; in such cases give them all manner of encou­ragement and assistance, and let them work it out of themselves at their own pace; for such Dogs can never prove ill, if not spoiled by your own hastiness and indiscretion: For a little of your Patience and their Experience, will bring them to be your chief Leaders.

When you have killed the Hare, permit not the Dogs to break her up, but beat them off; then Skin her and cut her in pieces, and Re­ward your young Hounds therewith; and by this means in a short time you will find a great im­provement in your Whelps.

Some are of Opinion, that the best way to Enter young Hounds, is to take a live Hare, and Trail her after you upon the Earth, now one way and then another; and having drawn it a convenient distance off, hide it, and the Dog taking the Wind thereof, runneth to and fro un­til he finds it.

The Huntsman must well understand the na­ture and disposition of his Hounds in the finding out the Game; for some are of that nature, that when they have found the Foot-steps, do go forwards without any Voice, or shew of Tail; likewise others when they have found Head will shew the Game; some again having found the Footings of the Beast, will prick up their Ears a little, and either Bark, or wag their Stern or Ears; others there are that can't keep the Scent, but wander up and down and hunt Counter, ta­king up any false Scent; and others there are that can't Hunt by the Foot, but only by the sight of their Game.

For the Entring your Hound at the Hart or Buck, let him be in Prime of Grease, for then he can't stand up, or hold out the Chase so long. The Forrest which you choose should have all the Relays of equal proportion, as near as may be; then place your young Hounds, with five or six old Staunch ones to enter them, and lead them to the furthest or last Relay, and cause the Hart or Buck to be hunted unto them; being come up, uncouple your old Hounds, and having found the Hart, being well entred in Cry, un­couple your Young Ones, and if you find any of them lag behind, whip or beat them for­wards. But for your more ready Entring them, take these few Instructions. You may bring them to Quarry by taking five or six nimble Huntsmen, and each to have two Couple of your Dogs, to lead in Liams; and having unlodged the Hart, pursue him fair and softly without tyring your Hounds; and after two or three hours Chase, and that you find him begin to sink, then cast off your Young Ones.

Another way is, by taking a Buck or Stag in a Toil or Net, and having disabled him by cutting one of his Feet, let him go; then about half an [Page 72] hour after, gather your young Hounds together, and having found out the View or Slot of the Buck or Hart by your Blood-Hound, uncouple your young Dogs, and let them Hunt; and when they have killed their Game, let them be Re­warded therewith whilst it is hot; the most usual part being the Neck flayed.

Some Enter their young Hounds within a Toyl, but that is not so good; for the Hart or Buck doth then nothing but turn and cast about, be­cause 10 he can't run an end, by which means they are always in sight of him: so that if afterwards they were to run at force, a free Chase being out of sight, your Dogs will soon give over.

How the Huntsman ought to Dress, Govern and Attend his Hounds.

A Good Huntsman ought to be loving to 20 his Hounds, especially after hard labour. His first business every Morning should be, to cause their Kennels to be cleansed; then he should take his Horn and Sound three or four times the Call, to encourage them and call them to him; and being all about him, let them be Coupled, putting such together, that as near as you can will not sight with one another; and let the young Dogs be Coupled with the old Bitches, to teach them to follow. Then the Keeper must be 30 provided with some Bones or Fragments of Meat to carry with him in a Wallet, and so cause the Hounds to follow him through green Corn-Fields, Meadows, and the like places, as well to Air them, as to make them know his Voice, and train them up for Service; and if any Dog doth happen to run at a Sheep, or other Tame Beast, correct him well, that he may be afraid to commit the like Offence another time. And having thus spent good part of the Fore-Noon, go into some Mea­dow, 40 and calling them about you, Reward them with some of the Bones out of the Wallet, using encouraging words; then let some of the Com­pany (being at a distance) call them to him by hollowing and winding his Horn; and being about him, let them be Rewarded with the rest; then Couple them, and so lead them home to their Kennel.

Sometimes it happens, that young Whelps will not take the Water; To help this, choose a hot 50 Day, and about Noon Couple up your Hounds, and lead them to the River-side, and so cause them to Swim, gently putting them in the Water; and by three or four times so doing they will not fear the Water. 60

CHAP. IV.
The Common Diseases incident to Hounds, with Directions for their Cure.

BEfore I shall enter upon the Diseases, it will be necessary to teach you how to prevent them, seeing that thereby you may save your Purse, Labour, and Credit, and keep up your Pack of Dogs for Service. Therefore when your Hunt, Feed better than when they Rest, and let them be neither too Fat nor too Lean, but in an indifferent State; but of the two rather Fat than Lean, by which means they will preserve them­selves from the Mange, Scabs, Madness, and the like, unto which they will be addicted: Which Diseases they will be subject unto, if they want Air, Water, or Exercise. And if you have but the knack to keep them thus in an even temper, they may live long and continue sound. As for their Water, they should be their own Carvers, as before noted, and as to Exercise and Dyet, order it according to discretion, observing a Me­dium.

If notwithstanding these Directions you find them troubled with the Itch, take some Quick-silver, and beat it in Nerve-Oyl until it be killed, and that the Composition become thick like a Salve, and of a pale yellow; with this anoint the affected place before the Fire, rubbing and chasing it well in.

Of the Mange, Tetters, Ring-Worms, and Scabs in Dogs.

THere's said to be four sorts of Mange; viz. The Red Mange, which causeth the Dogs Legs to swell; the Skaly Mange, which grows in Patches as broad as a mans Hand, and takes a­way the Skin where it comes; the Common Mange; and the Black Mange, which lieth unde the Skin, and causeth the Hair to shed. Of these Manges, the Red Mange is the worst, and hardest to be cured.

This Disease is occasioned by a Dogs foundring or over-heating in the Winter, and by taking cold in Swiming over Rivers when hot; also by lying in cold and moist places before he is well dry­ed.

For Cure, give him a Purge thus made; Take an Ounce and an half of Cassia-Fistularis, well cleansed, two Drachms and an half of Staves­acre in Powder, the like quantity of Scamony prepared in Whitewine-Vineger, and four Ounces of Oyl of Olives; temper all these together, and warm them a little over the Fire, and give it your Dog towards night, not suffering him to eat any thing till the next Morning; then let him Blood upon a Vein that is between the Hough-string and the Bone of the Leg, and within two days after Anoint him with this following Oyntment.

[Page 73] Take three Pound of Nut-Oyl, one Pound and an half of Oyl of Cade, two Pound of Oyl of Worms, three Pound of Honey, and one Pound and an half of Vineger; boyl all these together until half consumed; then put to it Rozin, and Pitch or Tar, of each two Pound and an half, and half a Pound of new Wax unwrought, melt them together; and then put thereto one Pound and an half of Brimstone, two Pound of Copporas well tryed, and twelve Ounces of Verdigrease; 10 stir those until cold.

This Medicine will kill and heal all manner of Mange and Itch, be it never so strong; but be­fore you Anoint your Dog therewith, vvash and rub him vvith Water and Salt to cleanse his Skin; then bring him to a good Fire, and tye him there that he may Sweat. Let his Dyet be vvarm Broth, in vvhich put some Brimstone to vvarm him within; and this method being taken for about a Week, vvill cure him.20

The Common Mange oft-times is occasioned by reason of the Dogs wanting fair Water to drink; as also for not keeping their Kennels clean.

This Mange is easily cured by a Decoction made of these Herbs following; Take two handfuls of wild Cresseys, as much of Elicam­pane, of the Leaves or Roots of wild Sorrel, and the Roots of Frodyls two Pound; put all these into Vineger and Lye, and let them boyl vvell; then having strained the Decoction, put 30 therein two Pound of Gray Sope, vvhich being dissolved and luke-warm, bathe the Dog therewith in the infected places, and in about a Week he vvill be recovered.

For Cure of this Distemper you may also use this Medicine; Take two Ounces of the strong­est Gunpowder, and mix it vvith very strong Whitewine-Vineger until it become like a thick Salve, and vvith it anoint the places infected until it bleed, and 'tis a certain Cure.

Some vvill cast their Dogs into a Tan-Pit, but 40 that is not so good, as endangering their Eye-sight.

To kill Fleas, Lice, Ticks, and such like Vermin, that Dogs are subject unto.

THese Vermin are engendred through vvant of clean Lodging, good Keeping and Air­ing. For their Cure, take about five handfuls of 50 Rue chopt small, and boyl it in a Gallon of Water until half be consumed, and strain it through a Cloth; then put to your Water two Ounces of Stavesacre in Powder, and being Blood-vvarm bathe your Dog therewith. But if you use all the Art you can, and remove not the Causes, they vvill still be diseased; therefore to prevent this, and many other Maladies that perplex your Hounds, 'tis good to have always in readiness this following Oyntment; Take three Pound of Wal­nuts. 60 and as much common Honey, of Oyl of Cedar, Vineger, Rosin, Pitch, and Brimstone, of each one Pound and an half, of Hogs-Grease and Copporas, of each two Pound, of Verdigrease twelve Ounces, and of new Wax half a Pound. Make all these into an Oyntment; but before you anoint your Dogs, vvash them in Water boyled vvith Salt.

Of Madness.

THis Distemper is very common amongst all sorts of Dogs; It is easy to prevent, but hard to Cure. There are seven sorts of Madness, amongst which some are esteemed incurable. I shall Treat of each sort; but first 'twill be neces­sary to shew how it comes, and what are its first Symptoms.

The first Cause proceeds from High Feeding, want of Exercise, fulness of Blood, and Costive­ness; for the two first, something hath already been said; and for the latter give them once a week, especially in the heat of the Year, five or six Spoonfuls of Sallet Oyl, which will cleanse them. If you give them at other times the quan­tity of a Hazel Nut of Mithridate, 'tis an excel­lent thing to prevent Diseases, and 'tis very good to Bleed them under the Tongues, and behind the Ears. But if this Disease have seized them before you perceived it, you must speedily remove them from the rest, for fear of an Infection, and go to work with the rest.

The Symptoms of this Disease are many, and easily discerned. When you see any Dog, se­parate himself contrary to his former use, to be­come Malancholy, or Droop with his Head, to forbear Eating, and as he runs to snatch and away at every thing he meets with, if he of­ten looks upward, and that his Stern at the set­ting on be a little erect, and the rest hanging down, if his Eyes be red, his Breath strong, his Voice Hoarse, and that he driveleth and foam­eth at the Mouth, you may assure your self he hath this Distemper.

The seven sorts of Madness are as followeth, of which the two first that I shall Name are in­curable, viz.

Hot Burning Madness, and Runing Madness; these two are very Dangerous, for all things they bite and draw Blood from, will have the same Distemper, they generally seize on all they meet with, but chiefly on Dogs; their pain is so great, that it soon kills them. The five curable Madnesses are.

Sleeping Madness, so called from the Dogs great Drowsiness, and almost continual Sleeping; and this is caused by little Worms that breed in the Mouth of the Stomach, from Corrupt Humours, Vapours and Fumes which ascend from the Head; for Cure take five Ounces of the Juice of Worm­wood, two Ounces of the Powder of Hartshorn burnt, and two Drams of Agaric, mix all these together with a little Whitewine, and give it the Dog to Drink in a Drenching-horn.

Dum Madness lyeth also in the Blood, and cau­seth the Dog not to Feed, but to hold his Mouth always wide open, frequently putting his Feet to his Mouth, as if he had a Bone in his Throat. For Cure take the Juice of black Hellebore, the Juice of Spathula putrida, and the Juice of Rue, of each four Ounces; and having well strained them, put thereto two Drams of unprepared Scamony, and being well mixt together, put it down the Dogs Throat, in a Drenchinghorn, keep­ing his Head up for some time, lest he cast it [Page 74] out again; then Bleed him in the Mouth, by cutting two or three of the Veins in his Gumbs.

It is said that about eight Drams of the Juice of an Herb called Hartshorn, or Dogtooth, being giv­en the Dog, cureth all sorts of Madness curable, but whether so or not, I leave to tryal.

Lank Madness is so called, by reason of their leaness and pining away; for Cure give them a Purge, as before directed, and also Bleed them.10

Rhumatick or Slavering Madness, doth occasion his Head to swell, his Eyes to look yellow, and always slavering, or drivilling at his Mouth. For Cure take four Ounces of the Powder of the Roots of Polipodie of the Oak, six Ounces of the Juice of Fennel Roots, with the like quantity of the Roots of Misletoe, and four Ounces of the Juice of Ivy, boil all these in Whitewine, and give it your Dog in a Drenching-horn, as hot as he can take it.20

Falling Madness is so called, because it lieth in their Heads, making them Reel as they go, and to fall down. For Cure take four Ounces of the Juice of Briony, and the like quantity of the Juice of Piony, with four Drams of Stavesaker pulverized, mix these together, and give it your Dog in a Dren­ching-horn; also let him Bleed in the Ears, and in the two Veins that come down his Shoulders, and in­indeed Bleeding must be used for all sorts of Madness. 30

To prevent Dogs from being mad, that are Bitten of mad Dogs, by Bathing them.

FIll a Barrel or Bucking-Tub full of Water, and put therein about a Bushel and a half of Salt, which stir well, that it may be dissolved; then put in the Dog that is Bitten, and plunge him over Head and Ears seven or eight times there­in; 40 and it will prevent his being Mad, but he should be also Blooded

Gauls, Tetters, Ringworms, Cankers and Dry Sores, with Directions to kill them.

FOr these Distempers, the aforesaid Oyntment is excellent good; Also this Medicine is ve­ry effectual: Take two Drams of Sublimate Mer­cury 50 in Power, beat it well in a Stone Morter with the Juice, or inward substance of a Cittron without the Rind, put thereto a little Water and Vineger, then take one Ounce of Allom, and as much Sope, all which mingle together, and let them boil until a third part be consumd, and with this wash the Sores.

To kill the Canker in a Dogs Ears.60

TAke Sope, Oyl of Tartar, Sal Armoniack, Brim­stone, and Verdigrease, of each one Ounce, mix them well together with strong Vineger, and rub the Sore therewith.

Of Dogs bitten by a mad Dog.

IF your Dogs are bitten by one that is mad, there is nothing better than the licking it with their own Tongues, if they can reach the place; if not, then wash it with Butter and Vine­ger made luke-warm, and anoint it afterwards with Venice Turpentine. It is also good to piss often into the Wound; but above all, the Juice of the Stalks of strong Tobacco boyled in Water, and bathe the place therewith: Also wash him either in Sea-water, or in Water artificially made Salt: Also give him inwardly a little Mithridate in two or three Spoonfuls of Sack, and so keep him apart; and if you find him after some time still to droop, without hopes of Recovery, the best way is to hang him.

Of Worms.

HOunds are apt to have Worms within them, especially when young: It is good to give them about a Pint of warm Milk early in the Morning, with about half an Ounce of Flower of Brimstone in it, and let them fast at least two hours after it. This will warm and scowr them, causing them to be free of all inward filth; or if you think good, make Pills of Aloes, Hartshorn, the Juice of Wormwood, with some Flower of Brim­stone; of this give them the quantity of a Hasel Nut wrapt up in sweet Butter, forcing it down his Throat by pulling out his Tongue and so putting it down, and when he draws in his Tongue it will slip in of it self.

Concerning Dogs that are surbaited in their Feet.

DOgs are often surbaited in their Feet, occasi­oned by runing long in hot Weather up­on hard, dry, uneven ways, amongst rocky and sharp Gravels: For preventing this; If your Hunts­man be careful, he will have their Feet look't af­ter as aforesaid: But if through carelessness their Feet become sore, then cause them to be washed with broken Beer and fresh Butter luke-warm, and then to bind to the Soles of their Feet a Salve made of young red Nettles small chopt, or beaten into an Oyntment: Soot finely powdered and beaten with the yolks of Eggs, and applyed to their Feet is also very good: Also the Juice of the Herb Mouse-ear is very good for the like occa­sion.

Of Bruises.

IF your Dogs chance to receive a Bruise through any fall, or the push of a Stag or Buck; if it appear outwardly anoint the swelling with a Decoction of Chickweed and Groundsel boyled in strong Ale, and that will asswage the swelling: But if it be a Wound, lay a Plaister thereon of the Roots of great Cumfrey, Mellilot, and Oyl of Roses, of each a like quantity, and cut away the hair near the Wound for the sticking of the Plai­ster. [Page 75] If you suspect the Bruise to be inward, give them a drench of a Pint of new Milk, and put therein a quarter of an Ounce of Irish Slate or Sperma Caeti, or for want of these two, take half an Ounce of Stone Pitch finely powdred.

To cure the biting or stinging of Venomous Creatures.10

IT sometimes happens that Dogs are bit and stung by Venomous Creatures, as Snakes, Adders, Toads, and the like. For Cure, Pre­sently squeez out the clotted Blood, and wash the place with Salt and Vrine; then lay a Plaister to it made of Callimint beaten in a Morter with Tur­pentine and yellow Wax, until it become a Salve. If you give him some of the Juice of Callimint to drink with Milk, it were not amiss; or one Ounce of Treacle dissolved in some sweet Wine. 20

Obstructions in the Bladder.

SOmetimes Dogs are troubled with Impedi­ments in the Bladder, and can't piss: To Cure which, give them a Decoction of Mallows, or March-Mallows, Brambles, the Roots of Fennel, and the Leaves or Seeds of Archangel that com­monly grows by Vines, of each an equal quanti­ty; and let them boyl until a third part be consu­med; 30 and when it is luke-warm give it the Dog in a Drenching-horn, and it will cause him to piss.

Cankers and Sores in Dogs Ears.

FOr the Cure, take Verjuice and Cheveril Water mixt together, and wash the Ears.

To keep Bitches from being Proud.40

BEfore a Bitch hath had Whelps, give her e­very Morning for about a Fortnight, eight or nine Corns of Pepper in her Meat, and she will not become Proud.

To heal Wounds on a Dog.

TAke the Juice of red Colewort, and squeez into the Wound, and it will cure it in a few times dressing.50

CHAP. V.
Hunters Terms of Venery.

IN Hunting observe that there are Beasts of 60 the Forest, which are Beasts of Venery, Beasts of Chase, and Beasts of the Warren. Beasts of Venery are the Hart and Hind, the Hare, Boar, and the Wolf. And here note, That with the Hart or Stag is included all other Red Deer of Antlier. Beasts of Chase are the Buck and Doe, the Fox, Martern, and the Roe, And Beasts of the Warren is the Coney.

Betwixt Beasts of Venery and Chase there are great differences. Those of Venery make their abode all day in great Coverts and secret Places in Woods, and in the Night season seek for Food in Meadows, Lawns, and pleasant feeding places; whereas those of Chase reside in the day in the Fields and open places, the better to avoid danger of surprizing; and in the Night season feed as the rest in the Meadows. But to proceed to the Terms of Art used in Venery.

The HART is called the first year a Calf, or a Hind-Calf, the second year a Knobler, the third a Brocket, the fourth a Staggard, the fifth a Stag, and the sixth a Hart. If hunted by the King or Queen, and he escape, for ever after he is called a Hart-Royal: And if the King or Queen think fit to make Proclamation for his safe Return, as was formerly the Custom, he is then called a Hart-Royal proclaimed.

The HIND is called the first year a Calf, the second a Hearse, and sometimes we say a Brocket's Sister, and the third year a Hind, and so she continues.

The HARE is called the first year a Le­veret, the second a Hare, and the third a great Hare.

The WILD-BOAR is called the first year a Pig of the Sounder, the second a Hog, the third a Hogs-steer, and the fourth a Boar, at which Age, if not before, he leaveth the Sounder.

The BVCK is called the first year a Fawn, the second a Pricket, the third a Sorel, the fourth a Soar, the fifth a Buck of the first Head, and the sixth a Buck, or great Buck.

The DOE is called the first year a Fawn, the second a Teg, and the third a Doe.

The BADGER is called the first year a Whelp or Pig, and afterwards a Badger.

The ROE is called the first year a Kid, the second a Girle, the third a Hemuse, the fourth a Roe-Buck of the first Head, and the fifth a fair Roe-Buck.

The FOX is called the first year a Cub, the second a Fox, and afterwards an old Fox.

The OTTER is called the first year a Whelp, and afterwards an Otter.

The MARTERN is called the first year a Cub, and the second a Martern.

The CONEY is called the first year a Rab­bet, and afterwards an old Coney.

Terms of Art used for Beasts of Venery and Chase, as they are in Company one with another.

A Heard of Harts, as also of all other sorts of Deer, is at least Twenty, but six Roes make a Heard.

A Bevy of Roes, a Sounder of Swine, and a Rout of Wolves, are at least Twelve in num­ber.

A Brace or Leese of Bucks, the like of Foxes and Hates. A Riches of Marterns, and a Couple of Coneys.

Terms for Copulation.

A Hart or Buck goeth to Rut; the Roe to Tourn, the Boar to Brim, the Fox to Clickit­ting, the Wolf to Match or to Make; the Otter hunteth for his kind; and the Hare and Coney goeth to Buck.

Terms for their Noise at Rutting time.10

A Hart Belloweth, a Buck Groaneth or Twa­teth, a Roe also Belloweth, a Boar Fream­eth, a Fox Barketh, a Badger Shrickets, an Otter Whineth, a Wolf Howleth, and a Hare and Coney Beateth or Tappeth.

Terms for their Ordure.

THe Ordure or Excrement of every Beast of 20 Chase or Venery hath his proper Terms, for thereby their place of Feeding and Estate is known, and therefore necessary to be understood. The Ordure of a Hart, and of all Deer, is called Fewmets or Fewmishings, and all Beasts that live of Browse shall have the same Term in that re­spect; but in Beasts of Prey, as the Boar and the like, they shall be called the Lesses. Of Vermine and stinking Chases, as the Fox, Badger, and the like, they are called the Fuants; of an Otter the 30 Spraynts, and of the Hare and Coney the Crotiles or Crotisings.

Terms for the footing and treading of Beasts of Chase and Venery.

FOr a Hart the Slot; for a Buck, and all Fallow Deer, the View. Of all Deer, if on the Grass, or where it is scarce visible, it is called Foiling; for a Fox the Print; for other Vermine 40 the Footing; for an Otter the Marks; for a Boar the Tract or the Treading; and for a Hare di­versly; for when she winds or casts about to de­ceive the Hounds, she doubleth; when she is in the open Field, she soreth; and when she beateth on the hard High-ways, and her footing can be per­ceived, then she pricketh; and in Snow it is called the Trace of a Hare.

Terms for Lodging of Beasts.50

A Hart Harboureth, a Buck Lodgeth, a Roe Beddeth, a Fox Kennelleth, a Badger Eartheth, an Otter Watcheth, a Boar Coucheth, a Hare Seateth or Formeth, a Coney Sitteth, and a Martern Treeth.

Terms for Lodging and Dislodging of Beasts.60

YOu shall say Harbour and Vnharbour a Hart, and he lyeth in his Layre; Lodge and Roaze a Buck, and he lyeth in his Layre; Seek and Find the Roe-Buck, and he Beddeth; Form and Start a Hare; Bolt and Burrow a Co­ney; and both the Hare and Coney do sit and squat. Kennel and Vnkennel the Fox; Earth and Dig out the Badger; Watch and Vent the Otter; Couch and Rear the Boar; Tree and Bay the Mar­tern; and Train and Raise the Wolf.

Terms for the Tails of Beasts of Chase.

THe Tail of a Hart, Buck, Roe, or any o­ther Deer is called the Single; that of a Boar the Wreath; that of a Coney or Hare the Scut, that of a Fox his Bush, and that of a Wolfe his Stern.

Terms for the Attire of Deer.

OF a Stag or Hart if perfect, the Burr is next the Head; the Pearls are the little knobs about it; the Beam is that whereon the Antliers, and the Sur Antliers are; and all the rest until you come to the Crown, Palm, or Croche, which is the top, are Royals and Sur-Royals, and the little Streaks in the Beam are Gutters.

Of a Buck, you may say the Burr, the Beam, the Brown-Antlier, the Black-Antlier, the Aduan­cer, Palm and Spellers.

If the Croches grow in form of a Mans Hand, it is called a Palmed Head. Heads not bearing above three or four, the Croches being placed above, and all at one height, are called Crowned Heads. And Heads having Doubling Croches, are called Fored Heads, because the Croches are on the Top of the Beam like Forks.

When you speak of a Harts or Bucks Horns, call them the Head; and not the Horns.

The Head or Horns of a Deer when it first cometh out, hath a Russet Pill upon it, which is called Velvet, and his Head is called a Velvet Head; and when it is grown out to the full Big­ness, he rubbeth off that Pill; and that is cal­led the Fraying of his Head; and afterwards he burnisheth the same, and then his Head is said to be full Summed.

I shall here give you the Figures of a Harts Head, or Horns.

[figure]

[Page 77] A is called the Burr, and that which is about the Burr, is called Pearls.

B Is called the Brow Antlier.

C Those which are the second third and fourth, are called the Sur-Antliers, or Beam-Antliers; And all that grow from the Brow-Antlier, until you come to the Crown, Palm, or Croche are called Royals and Sur-Royals.

D The little Buds or Broches that are about the top, are called Croches, or generally Croches of so 10 many on the top as they are.

Fig. I.

Fig. II.

20

Fig. I. This Head is called a Palmed Top, be­cause 30 the Croches which grow in the Top, are for­med like a Mans Hand.

Fig. II. All Heads that bear not above three or 40 four, the Croches being placed aloft, and all of one height in form of a Cluster of Pears or Nuts, are called Heads of so many Croches. 50

[figure]

60

All Heads which bear two in the Top, or having their Croches doubling in manner as these are here described, are to be called Forked Heads, because the Croches are planted on the Top of the Beams like Forks.

[figure]

All Heads, that have double Burs, or the Ant­liers, Royals and Croches turned downwards, con­trary to the fashion of other Heads, according to these Figures, are to be called Heads only.

Terms of Flearing, Stripping and Casing of Beasts.

THe Hart of all sorts of Beasts is flean; and you must say, Take off the Deers Skin; Strip or Case the Hare: The Fox, Badger, and all manner of Vermine are also Cased; and you must begin at the Snout or Nose of the Beast, and so turn his Skin over his Ears all along his Body, until you come to his Tail, and that must hang out to shew what Beast it was.

The Seasons for Beasts of Chase.

THe Hart or Buck beginneth at the end of Fence-Mouth, which is Fifteen days after Midsummer, and holdeth till Holy-rood-day. The Hind and Doe begin at Holy-rood-day and last till Twelfth-day or Candlemass. The Roe from Mi­chaelmass to Candlemass. The Fox and Wolf from Christmass to our Lady-Day; the Hare from Mi­chaelmas to the beginning of March; the Otter from Shrovetide to Midsummer; and the Boar from Christmass to Shrovetide. Coneys are always in season, either young or old; but their Skins are best in Season from Alholantide, to Shrovetide.

The Fat of all sorts of Deer, is called Suet; and yet you must say, This Deer was a high Deer of Grease.

The Fat of a Boar, Fox, and Badger, is called Grease; and the Fat of a Roe is called Bevy­grease.

Proper Terms for the Noises of Hounds.

WHen Hounds are first cast off, and find some Game, say they Challenge or Call on; but if they are too busie before they find the Scent good, then say they Bawl; If too busie after they have found good Scent, then they Babble; and if they run it end-ways orderly, making it good, and then hold it merrily together, say they 10 are in Full cry. When they have either Earthed a Vermin, or brought a Deer, Boar, or the like, to turn Head, then they say they Bay; when Hounds hang behind and beat too much upon the Scent or Place, say they Plod; when they are earnest in the Chase, or in the Earth, they Yearn; and when they open in the String (or a Grey-hound is in Course) then they Lapise.

Other Terms to be taken notice of.20

WHen Hounds or Beagles take fresh Scent, hunting another Chase until they hit it a­gain, then they hunt change.

When Hounds hit the Scent of their Chase con­trary, as to hit it up the Wind when they should do it down, then say they draw amiss.

When they hunt by the Heel, then they hunt Counter. 30

When the Chase goeth off, and cometh on a­gain, traversing the same Ground thereby to de­ceive the Hounds, then they hunt the Foil.

The feeding Hounds after they have killed their Chase, is called Rewarding them.

When Hounds are in readiness, where the Game is expected to pass by, and are then cast off at the coming of the other Hounds, that is account­ed a Relay.

When Deer have lately passed into Thickets, 40 and then put the Dogs thereto for the View, such places are said to be Entries.

When any Deer is hard hunted, and then takes any River passing through it, say he Takes Soil; when he comes out, say he Breaks water; and when he leapeth into the water, and cometh out again the same way, then say he Proffereth.

When Hounds or Beagles run long without opening, or making any Cry, it is termed Runing Mute. 50

When Hounds run at a whole Heard of Deer, then they run Riot.

When at first finding the Scent of the Game they presently open and cry, 'tis said they Chal­lenge: And when they draw on the Scent till they rouze the Chase, then they draw on the Slot.

When a Roe Crosses and Doubles, it is called Trajoning.

There are different Terms betwixt Hounds and Greyhounds: as, Two makes a Brace of Grey­hounds, 60 and a Couple of Hounds: Three a Leese of Greyhounds, and a Couple and a half of Hounds. You must say, Let slip your Greyhound, and Cast off your Hound. The String used to lead a Grey­hound, is called a Leese, and for a Hound a Ly­ame. The Greyhound hath his Coller, and the Hound his Couples.

When Huntsmen go drawing in their Springs at Hart-hunting, they usually make Dew-rounds, which are called Ring-walks.

When Deer rub and push their Heads against Trees; to cause the Pills or Velvet of their new Horns to come off, it is said they Fray.

When Deer cast their Horns, they Mew.

When the Huntsman endeavoureth to find a Hart by the Slot; and then mind his Step to know whether he is great or long, then say, He is known by his Gate.

When Beagles break and cry at their Prey, then they Yearn.

A Rain Deer resembleth a Hart, but hath his Head full of Antliers.

When Hounds find where the Chase hath been, and made a proffer to enter, but returned, then say, there is a Blemish; and when Hounds in rea­diness expecting the Chase to pass by, and then to cast them off before the rest comes in, this is termed a Vaunt lay.

When a Hare takes the Ground like a Coney, which is but rarely seen, then say she goeth to the Vault, and when she is Coursed on Rotten Ground, or in Frosty Weather, so that it sticks to her Feet, then say she Carieth.

To beat the Bushes after a Fox is termed Draw­ing.

A Pricker is a Huntsman on Horsback.

When you see about Twenty Deer of what sort soever together, it is a small Heard; about forty is a Middle Heard, and sixty or eighty a great Heard, be they Male or Female.

Upon View of a Hart, if he be a goodly Deer, do not call him fair but great; and so a great Hind, and a great Buck, but a fair and comly Doe.

When a Deer eateth in Corn, or Grass-field, he is said to Feed, otherwise to Browze; and if he stayeth to look on any thing, he is said to stand at Gaze; when he forceth by, upon force he Trip­peth, and when he runs a pace he Streineth. When he is hunted and leaves the Heard, then he Sin­gleth; when he Foams at Mouth he is Embossed; when he Smelleth, or Venteth any thing, then say he hath this or that in the Wind; when he holds out his Neck, at full length inclining, then say he is spent; and being Dead, say he is done.

The Reward to the Hounds, is called the Re­ward or Quarry.

When a Huntsman beats a Wood to find a Chase, 'tis called Drawing the Covert, and when he seeth where any Deer hath been, say here he break­eth.

When some few Hounds are set in readiness, by any place where 'tis supposed, the Chase will pass, 'tis termed A Vaunt Lay; and when they tarry until the rest of the Hounds come in, it is called An Allay; but if they hold till the Kennel be past, then 'tis called A Relay.

When a Hart entreth a River, or Pool which is termed the Soil, say he descendeth; when you see him ready to enter the Water, say he prof­fereth, and if he doth it the second time, then he Re­proffereth; and after he hath once descended, and you see where he hath trod the Water, filling his [Page] [Page]

The Deere Fraying their Heads

SEMPER VIBESCENS

To the Right Honourable Claudius Hamilton [...] Earle of Abercor [...]e, Lord Pasly. Kilpatrick, Mountcastle, Lord Hamilton and Baron of Strabane, first and Legall issue Male from Iames Duke of Chastleherault, Earle of Arran, Cheife of the most noble family of Hamilton, whose family is by Act of Parliament (signed by al the three Estates) declared next Queen Mary & her issue ye. Rightfull heyre of the Crown of Scotland [...] he being Son & hayre to the only Sister of King Iames the Fourth.

This Plate [...] humbly dedicated by Richard Blome.

[Page 79] Foot-steps, then say here the Hart Defouleth, and the Slot or View that is found of such a Deer, on the other side of the Water is to be termed as of a Deer Defoulant the Soil. The Hart, Buck and Boar, do oft times take Soil without enfor­cing; and all other Beasts are only said to take Water except the Otter, and he is said to beat the Stream.

When they Cast about a Grove or Wood, with the Blood-Hound; they make a Ring, when they 10 find where the Deer hath passed, and break or plash any Bough downwards for a Mark, then say, They Blemish, or make Blemishes. When they hang up any Paper, Clout or Mark, it is called Sewelling, or setting of Sewels. When a Hound meeteth a Chase, and goeth away with it far before the rest, then say, he Foreloyneth. When a Hound Hunts backward the same way that the Chase is come, then he hunts Counter; and if he hunts any other Chase than that which 20 he first undertook, then he hunts Change. When any Deer or other Chase useth any Subtilties to deceive the Hounds, then say, they Cross or Double.

When a Hart or Stag breaks Herd, and draweth to the Covert, say, he goeth to Harbour, or taketh his Hold, or he Covereth; and when he cometh out again, then he discovereth him­self.

There is great difference betwixt the Feet of 30 Preying Beasts and those of a Deer; for in those of Prey they are called Traces; but the Tract, or Footing of a Deer, is called the Slot or View.

There is also a difference betwixt the Frith and the Fell, the Fells being taken for the Val­leys, green Compastures, and Mountains; and the Friths for Springs and Coppices.

There is also a difference betwixt the word Ways and Trenches; for by the first is meant the High and Beaten Ways on the Out-side of a 40 Forest or Wood; and by the word Trench, is every small Way not so commonly used.

There is likewise a difference betwixt a Trench and a Path, which is a place where a Deer hath only left Slot or View.

Blemishes are the Marks left to know where a Deer hath gone in or out, and they are little Boughs plashed or broken, to hang downwards; for any thing that is to hang up, is called a Sewel. 50

Thus having treated of the several Terms of Art most used in Hunting; the next business shall be, to treat of the several sorts of Beasts of Venery and Chase; and first of the Hart or Stag.

CHAP. VI.
Of the HART or STAG.60

IT is observed, that this Creature of all other Deer, hath the most ingenuity, and yet the most fearful; and by his Windings, Turnings, and other Subtilties, as runing into Herds, forcing others into his Footings, and taking refuge a­mongst Herds of Cattle, doth oft deceive the Huntsman, and put a Foyl upon the Dogs; for in his Chase (which often proves long) neither Hedge, Ditch, or River doth stay him, but taketh all with great fierceness: Notwithstanding all which he is ensnared; for the Dogs, who pur­sue him by his Scent, being animated and encouraged by the Huntsmen, he becomes their Prey.

The Hart, as also the Hind, are very long lived, being said to live about One hundred years. They are bred in most Countries, but England is said to breed the best.

This Creature doth excel all others in the Beauty of his Horns, which are very high and large; yet do they not grow to their Scalps or Bones, but to their Skin, branching forth into many Speers, being solid throughout, and as hard as Stones; every Year in the Spring (as all other sorts of Deer) they lose or shed their Horns, and during the time they are without, do abscond all the Day in Solitary places, and only feed out in the Nights. Their new Horns at the first come out like Bunches, and by degrees grow and become hard, being covered with a rough Skin, which is called a Velvet-Head; and as the said Skin dryeth, they fray or rub them against Trees, to scrape off the said roughness; and when they find, that in thus rubing them they feel no pain, 'tis a Rule to them, that their Horns are their sufficient guard, and so they leave those Retiring places.

At One year old they have no Horns, but only Bunches; at the Age of Two years they appear more perfect, but Strait and Simple; at Three years they grow into two Speers; at Four, into three, and so increasing every Year in their Branches until they be Six; and above that time their Age is not known by their Heads.

In what Season the Stage or Harts Mew, and betake themselves to the Thickets and Solitary places.

IN February and March they Mew, or Cast their Heads, that is, their Horns; and generally the old Ones sooner than the Young, and such that have some Distemper upon them, especially such as have been hurt at Rut, having lost their Pissel or Stones, do never Mew; for if you geld one before he hath an Head, he will never bear Head; and also, if you Geld him when he hath his Head, or Antlier, he will never Cast it; and if you Geld him when he hath a Velvet Head, it will always remain so.

When Harts have Mewed, they betake them­selves to the Thickets, as aforesaid; but Young Ones do never, until they have born their Third Head, which is in the Fourth year of their Age.

In March and April they begin to thrust forth their Buds, about Mid June their Heads will be Somed, and about the latter end of July, when they find them to dry, they go to the Trees to [Page 80] Fray their Heads, and to rub off the Velvet, as aforesaid.

Of Fraying their Heads.

HAving Frayed their Heads, then they bur­nish them in the Clay, and other commo­dious places they can meet with fit for that pur­pose.10

Some bear Red Heads, some Black, and some White; all which do proceed from Nature only. The Red Heads are commonly greater and fairer than the rest, and are lighter than the Black; and the White are the worst of all.

Rules to know an Old Hart by the Slot, Fewmets, Carriage, Fraying, Posts; and by his Gate, Head, and Branches.20

IF when you would take his Slot or Tread­ings▪ on the Ground, you find he hath a large Foot, a deep Printing, an open Cleft, and a long Space, you may be sure he is Old; if you find the Treadings of two, the one long and the other round, and both of one bigness; yet the long Slot was of the largest Hart; also the hinder Feet of the old Hart do never reach their former in their going, but the Young Ones 30 do. Likewise the Old Harts are low Joynted, and do never tread double, or falsly; because the Sinews, that hold the Joynts of their Feet and Claws, are better reinforced than the young Harts, who are not so well able to sustain the weight of their Body, so that their Feet and Claws are sometimes forced to turn away and double, by which they may be judged young.

There is a great difference between the Slot of 40 the Stag or Hart, and the Hind; for there is no Hart of the Second Head so young, that leaveth not a greater and wider Slot than the Hind; and the Bones will also appear greater; but when Hinds are with Calf, they open their Claws wide like a Hart.

You may also know an Old Hart by its Fewmishings, or Fewmets, though they are not at all times alike. In April and May they Cast their Fewments, or Excrements, as it were in 50 Cakes; and if they be long and thick, 'tis a sign of an Old Hart. In June and July they Cast them forth in great Croteys, but soft; and from thence to the end of August they hold the same form and dimension, but are very hard and knotty. But although these are the general Marks to know an Old Hart by, yet sometimes it falls out contrary; For when they have been disturbed, or received some hurt, then they make their Fewments oft-times dry, and sharp at one 60 end, especially at such times as they Fray their Heads. There is also a difference betwixt the Fewments of the Morning, and that in the E­vening; for those that he makes when he goeth to Relief at Night, are better digested, and moi­ster than those that he makes in the Morning, because he hath taken his rest all Day, and so doth make a perfect digestion; whereas in the Night he is forced to seek his Feed.

The Age of a Stag or Hart may also be judged by his Carriage, or Bearings; that is to say, when he passeth through any Branched Wood, and with his Head bruiseth the under Boughs, and that indifferent high, and of a good distance, 'tis a sign he is well Spread, and Old. This Judg­ment may be given all the Year, except in the Months of March, April, May, and June; at which times they Mew their Heads, and bear their Velvet and Bloody-heads. His Greatness is also known by the height of his Entries into a Wood; for the Young ones creep, but the Old Ones, are stiff and stately.

All Stags or Harts, as they are burnished, beat or rub their Heads against some Tree or other, which is termed their Fraying-Post, as be­fore taken notice of; and the Elder the Hart, is, the sooner doth he go to Fray, and the greater is the Tree that he seeketh to Fray upon, and such as he can't bend with his Head. The Younger make use of weaker and lower Trees, by which their Age may be also known, as also the nearest to their Harbour; this being the last Ceremony used by them before they enter it.

The Plate of Fraying their Heads, shews their Age.

By the Gate or Going of an Hart, his Age may be judged, for the Elder he is, the longer will his Pace be, and the longer will he run or stand up before the Dogs, as being more swifter, light­er, and better breathed. Also the Stag or Hart that leaveth a great Slot of his Fore-feet, doth never stand up long when he is Chased; and a Hart that hath a long Foot, hath a greater Body than those that are round Footed. His Age is likewise guessed by the height and bigness of his Legs.

In April, May, and June, there is no Judgment to be had from the Horns, by reason they Cast them in February or March (as before noted,) and are not well furnished with their whole Carriage till the beginning of July; and sometimes later, if the Soil be not good, and the Season fair.

By the Branches of a Stags-Horns his Age may be known; for the First Year they have no Head, that is, Horns; the Second they have Prickets: the Third they bear four, six, or eight Branches; the Fourth, eight or ten; the Fifth, ten or twelve; the Sixth, twelve or fourteen; and at Seven Years old they leave their Heads Beamed, Branched and Somed, with as many as ever they will bear; for after that Year they increase in bigness, but not in number; and yet after they are seven, eight, ten, twenty, thirty, or forty Years Old they may be guessed at, though not with certainty; for they have their Cabage large and thick, they are strong Breasted and Burred, and their Heads are very open.

Of Rutting of Harts.

THe time of their Rutting or Vaulting, is a­bout Mid September; and during that Season they are such great lovers of the Sport, [Page]

The [...]arborer with ye. Blood Hound for harbouring the Stogg.

To the Right Worship [...]full S.t Thomas Bludworth of Leather head in the County of Surrey Kinght [...]

This Plate is humbly dedicated by Ric. Blome

[Page] [Page 81] that they mind nothing else, and with a greedy desire seek out the Hinds, following them by their Scent; and during the time of their Rut, they eat very little. They are exceeding hot and burn­ing with Lust, insomuch that where they find a­ny Water, they lye and tumble in it to cool their Heat; and in this lustful raging Season they have a peculiar Noise: But the Hinds are more Chast, not desiring Copulation so oft, if they were not constrained to it by the Harts; so that one Male 10 will serve for several Females: And the older they are, the better they are, and therefore go to Rut before the young ones. Nor will they suffer the young ones to come near the Hinds until their Venery is over, or pretty well spent, which when they perceive, they run upon them, forcing them away, and so become Masters in their Rooms.

Their Lust being over, and having spent some time in their Solitary Retirements, they return to their Pastures, and live in Herds as before.20

The Hinds being thus filled, never keep Com­pany with the Harts until delivered of their young, which is in eight Months; during which time they lodge in some Covert, taking care of their young, until fit to shift for themselves.

During the time of their Rut they are very ea­sie to be killed; for they follow the Paths and Ways where the Hinds have gone, putting their Noses to the Ground to follow them by the Scent, not regarding the danger they are in of being ta­ken,30 which at other times they are careful of.

Of the Coats and Colours of Harts.

THere are three several sorts of Harts or Stags, viz. the Red, Brown, and Fallow; and of every one of these Coats there proceeds two sorts of Harts, the one great, and the other small. Of brown Harts, some are great, long, and hairy, bearing a high Head of a reddish colour, which is 40 fair and well beamed: This sort will hold a good Chase, being swifter of foot, and longer of breath, than those of a shorter Stature, which are well set, are fatter and esteemed better Venison, as being in young Springs and Coppices, rather than in high Woods. They are very subtile, especially when in their Grease, Nature teaching them to be then more cautious, as being sensible they can't hold out a Chase.

If they are old, and feed in good Pastures, 50 their Heads are black, fair, well branched, and ge­nerally palmed at the top.

Those that are of a lively red Fallow, having a black or brown List down the ridge of their Backs, and their Legs of the same colour, are strong, and have fair and high Heads, which are well furnished and beamed.

The Fallow-Hart or Stag doth bear his Head high, is of a whitish colour, hath small Beams, with long, slender, and ill grown Antliers, and hath neither courage nor force.60

The Harts or Stags of a lively red are com­monly young ones; and such do stand up long, maintaining a good Chase.

Their changing their Food according to the Seasons of the Year.

STags or Harts are said to change their manner of Food according to the several Seasons of the Year, which is necessary to be known by eve­ry expert Woodman. I will begin at the end of their Rutting, which is about the end of October.

In November, when they cease to Rut, they fre­quent broomy and heathy Fields and Places, where they may crop off the tops of those Shrubs, which are very strengthening unto them, after their works of Nature hath exhausted them: And sometimes they lye in such like heathy and broomy Places in the hot Months of the year.

In December they herd together, and withdraw into the Forests to have harbour from the cold Frosts, Snows, Wind and Rains, and do then feed or browse on Elder Trees, Brambles, Bryers, Haw­thorns, Holmes, and such like things that they can find green; and in the time of Snows they feed on the Rinds or Barks of Trees.

In January they leave herding with the rascally Deer, and keep together in small herds near the skirts of the Forests, where they may find green Corn, or good Winter Pasture.

In February and March they mew or cast their Heads, and then seek out good fresh Pasture and green Corn for their Night food, lying close in the Woods all the day until their Heads are grown a­gain.

In April and May they rest in the Thickets, and such like retiring places, seldom stirring out of their Harbours, but for food in the Nights, much coveting green Corn: And in these Months they go not to Soil, by reason of the moisture of the Spring, and of the Dew that is on the Grass or Corn.

In June, July, and August they visit the Copices and Spring Woods during the heat of the Day; and in the Nights frequent Corn Fields, no Grain coming amiss; but they most delight to feed on Wheat, Oats, and Pease.

In September and October they begin to leave the Thickets and go to Rut; and in these Months they have no certain harbour or food, but follow the Tract of the Hinds, as before noted, not re­garding who seeth them, pursuing the Hinds with such rage and heat of Lust, that they never mind eating any thing but what accidentally they meet with, which for the most part are Mushrooms, which is a great Provocative to Ve­nery: And they are in this Season easie to be killed, were their Flesh good and wholsome, as it is not.

Directions how to use the Bloodhound or Suithound, for the finding out or Har­bouring the Hart, or Stag.

THe next thing to be Treated of, shall be to find out the Hart, or Stag where his Har­bour or Lare is; for the effecting of which get up early in the Morning; and be sure not to go [Page 82] with the Wind, for the Hart is very quick of Scent, and will make away upon the least fault; and if you go not betimes, Cattle will be let out, and stiring up and down may chance to tread out the Slot where he hath passed. You must be provided with a Bloodhound, Draughthound or Suithound, which must be led in a Liam, accor­ding as in the Plate is represented, and for the quickning his Scent 'tis good to rub his Nose with Vineger.

When his harbour or resting place is found,10 and that you have lodged him, all things ought to be prepared for the Hunting him the next Morn­ing; For in those Months that he is in the Pride of his Grease, he retires from Feeding back to his Layre, about Sun-rising; and for the most part, if not always, to one and the same place, unless he meet with some notable disturbance in the in­terim.

Harts do go to their Layre, commonly in the 20 Springs; and although they were drawn into some strong hold, or Thicket, yet if they be old craf­ty Deer, they will return sometimes to the sides of the Coppices, to hearken or spy if there be any thing to anoy them; and if they chance to vent the Huntsman or his Hound, they will immediate­ly dislodge from thence, and go to some other place.

When the Huntsman, or Harbinger doth perceive that 'tis time to beat, let him put his Hound be­fore 30 him, and beat the outside of the Springs or Thickets, and if he find a Hart, or Deer, let him see if the Slot be fresh or not, and he may also know by the drawing of his Hound, although sometimes one may be deceived by them, when the Mist or Dew is great, which taketh off the Scent; But if the Hound stick well upon the Scent, then let him hold him short for fear lest he Lapist (that is open,) for in the Morning a Hound will draw better when he is held short, than if 40 he were let at the length of the Liam; and let him draw till he come to the Covert where he is, and if possible, harbour him, marking all the Signs, as the Slot, his Entries and the like, to know what manner of Deer he is.

Then let him plash, or bruise down some small Twigs, some above, and some below, and whilst his Hound is hot in the pursuit, let him beat the outsides, and mark his Ringwalks twice or thrice about the Wood, one while by the great and o­pen 50 ways, that he may help himself by his Eye; another while through the Covert, for fear lest the Hound should overshoot him, for he will have better Scent in the Covert, than in the High­ways. And if he find that the Deer be not gone out of the Ringwalk, or that he hath drawn a­miss, then let him go to his Marks, which he hath p [...]ashed or bruised, and draw Counter until he may take up the Fewmet, as well made in the even­ing Relief, as in the Morning; and let the place 60 where he hath fed be marked.

If the Huntsman find two or three places where he hath entred, and as many where he hath come out, in this case the freshest entry must be taken notice of; for a Hart doth oft times go in and out of his harbour in the Night, especially if he be an Old Crafty Deer, and will use great Subtilties, beating one place too and fro divers times. In this case the Huntsman must take his Compass and Ring-walk the greater about the Covert, thereby to encompass all his Entries and Goings out, and let him suffer his Hound to draw almost to the Harts Layre or Harbour, and being near it, then draw with more care, checking your Hound that he spends not when he comes so near as to have him in the Wind; and having disco­vered that you ought to draw him, retire some distance back; and if you perceive him not di­sturbed, make your second round a little nearer which will secure him in his harbour; so that ha­ving broken a Bough, or plashed some Twigs, as aforesaid, for your Directions, leave him till the next Morning when you intend your Chase.

For the finding out a Hart by the Eye in the Springs, observe over Night in what part the Deer goes to feed, and if it be in a Spring, observe which way to come in the Morning upon a clear Wind, and choose a standing in some Tree on the border of the Spring, from which all things may be discerned that feed therein. In the Morning be at the Covert before Day, and being near the Deers harbour, leave your Hound with some one that goes with you, that you may quickly have him on occasion, and then get up the Tree to espy him, and there stay until he is gone to harbour, obser­ving well the place where he entred; then dis­cend the Tree and fetch the Hound; but do not begin to harbour him for an hour at least after his going to Layre, for fear of his discovering you, and thereby lose him. And if in casting about the Covert any Pyes or Jayes make a chat­tering, then withdraw and stand close, for that is a sign he is yet on foot; so that stay about half an hour before you make your Ring-walk.

Oft-times those that are crafty, as being chased with Hounds, and escape, do afterwards betake themselves for a long time to close Thickets, and feed in small Groves or Coppices, that have been lately felled, within large Coverts; and this they do most commonly in May and June, more than in any other Season of the Year, by reason they go not much to the Water, but content them­selves with the Dew and moisture of the Earth; but in July and August the drought and heat is such that forceth them out for Water, and when they go out they retire into their Holds two or three hours before day.

For the finding out such crafty Deer, observe this method. When you find the Slot of a Hart in a thick Covert, that is two or three days old, and that the Ground is broken with such old Tracts, then cast about and beat all the out­sides; and if you find that he hath not gone out or in, then conclude he keepeth within: In such case get under the Wind, and enter the Covert, holding your Hound short, and if he hath any thing in the Wind, and that you find you are not far from the Hart, then withdraw for fear of rouzing him, and go into the Covert at some other side that is not so thick, and take up what Fewmishings you find; but go not into such pla­ces until about Nine of the Clock in the Morn­ing, because such Harts do oft take harbour with­in those little Coppices to enjoy the comfort of the [Page] [Page]

YE WHARBOVRING Y STAGG

To the Worship-full Henry Wallop of Farligh in the County of Southampton Esq

This plate is humbly dedi­cated by Richard Blome.

[Page 83] Sun, and after Nine a Clock do withdraw to the shady Places. Nor must you be too over-hasty in entring the Thickets, because that the Harts do sometimes take Layre near those privy Coppices: Therefore let it suffice to have seen the Slot fresh, and to have taken up the Fewmishing, and so re­tire as privately as you can.

The Huntsman or Harbourer must be stirring early to seek the Hart in such places, because that they withdraw into their Coverts before Day,10 that they may not be disturbed by Cattle or People, who oft-times break the Slot, and render it undiscernable.

But to proceed to the Chase of the Hart. The Horsmen, Huntsmen and Hounds, being all ready prepared in the Field by Day-break, having their Harbenger, Bloodhound or Draughthound, in readi­ness, they begin the Chase.

The Chase of the Hart or Stag; and first 20 the Vnharbouring him.

THe Huntsmen must disperse themselves about the sides of the Wood, according to the best advantage, to espy, if it be a Deer, according to the Harbengers description, and when he breaks Covert, to give notice thereof to the Company by blowing a Recheat; and if the Hounds run Riot (that is, Chase some 30 rascally Deer) then they must be rated; that is, stop them by words of correction, or the like.

But your Hounds should not all be uncoupled until the Hart is unharboured by the Har­bourer, and cast off the Staunch Hounds first, which having undertaken the Chase, cast off the rest; and the Hounds being in full cry, the Horsmen should second and encourage them with Voice and▪ Horn as aforesaid, to the end 40 the whole Field may know how, and where the Game goeth. But now adays few hunt the Hart as they ought, for they give not their Hounds leasure to hunt, so that it is more properly to be said the Horses hunt than the Hounds; and there is so many on Hors­back that can neither blow, hollow, or do any thing belonging to Hunting as they ought, and which mingle themselves amongst the Hounds; crossing them, and breaking their Course, that 50 'tis impossible for Hounds to hunt true.

As soon as you can get sight of the Deer, to see if it was the same that was Vnharboured, or a fresh one, (for by his subtilties; if possi­ble, he will put such a Sham upon the Hounds;) if it be a fresh one, then rate them back, and bring them to the Default.

The Horsmen ought all along to second and encourage the Hounds, and to keep them to Hunt Close, assisting them at every Default, if 60 they have either lost the Slot or follow not the right. They must also be careful to watch his Windings and Doublings; for when he finds himself closely pursued, he will use many shifts and endeavours to give them the change, to pre­serve himself; And being put to his last extremity, it is almost incredible to believe what strange contrivances he will use to shun the fury of his pursuing Enemies; for somtimes he will hide himself close to the Earth, permit­ting the Dogs to come up to him, whilst in the mean time he puts his Feet close under his Belly, and draws his Breath close by the fresh Earth; Nature having taught him to know that the Scent of his Feet and his Breath are the chief discoverers of his doublings and changes. Somtimes when he is close hunted, he will run from Covert to Covert, to find out some others, and put himself in their company. If he find himself not safe, he will directly re­turn by his first Path to break his Traces, and then shoot out into some great Road or High­way, the light Dust keeping neither Scent nor Impression; and in such case the Huntsmen both horse and foot, must be diligent to look about to encourage the Hounds, and to search for his Slot, and to bring up the Dogs in fresh cry, some times the Stag being close hun­ted, will run with the Wind, thereby to leave no Scent of his Breath, and but little of his Feet behind him: Some Harts, when they are hunted, will on a suddain make themselves as if quite tired, and cast themselves on the Ground until the Hounds are within Twelve-score of them, and then they will start up, and run more nimble than before, trusting in their force. Somtimes he will take Soil, that is, the Water, covering himself all under it, ex­cept his Nose; somtimes swim down the Stream, and somtimes cross the River; In such case the Huntsmen must have a special regard to the old staunch Hounds, who will hunt leasurely and carefully, whereas the young ones will over-shoot their Game. In all these Accidents, the Horsmen and Huntsmen must be diligent to look out, and cherish the Hounds, blowing them a Recheat.

The Stag may better be discovered at a distance, when he is Spent, than when he is nigh and hollowed at; for when he seeth no man, he beareth down his Head, which de­noteth his weariness; whereas when he seeth any one, he raiseth up his Head that they should think him strong, stout, and not tired.

When he is towards his fall, the Hounds will hold in close together, and come on strongly, by reason that when he is almost Embossed, he casts out of his mouth a white Froth or Flaver, which is very sweet and delightful to the Hounds: Besides, the Swet of his Body run­ing down his Legs, leaves a strong Scent on the Ground, which is a sure sign to the Dogs that he is sinking: And hence it is that they are always so lusty and jocund towards the end of the Chase.

If the Hart takes into any dry Champain Ground, and that 'tis very hot, and little or no Wind stirring, so that there is no Scent to be had, and that the Hounds are almost spent for want of breath, and through extremity of labour give out; in such case the Huntsman must blemish in the last Slot, and cast off the Dogs to some convenient place to refresh them with bread and water until the heat be past, and then return back [Page 84] to the same Blemish, putting the Bloodhound on it, and draw before the Hounds until they have found the Hart again, and so follow the Chase as before.

The Stags taking Soil.

WHen he is quite spent, one of his last Suc­cours is to take Soil, and when he once descends he swims down Stream to leave no Scent 10 behind him, and keeps in the middle for fear of touching the Boughs or other things that hang in the Water. In this case the Huntsmen must have an eye to the Blemishes where first he took Soil; for 'tis easie to discover by the breaking of the Wa­ter, that is the place where he took Soil, and there you may soon perceive which way he makes head by the breaking down the Grass and Weeds, better than by the Slot, which at the first forsaking of the Soil is generally spoiled and de­faced 20 by the Water that runs down his Legs. Somtimes he will not only descend, but conti­nue in the Soil, hiding himself all except the tip of his Nose, as before taken notice of; and per­adventure at a time, and in such a place, when and where you are unwilling to hazard your Dogs: In such Case procure a Boat, or else some of the Huntsmen must unstrip, and see to wound him with a Sword; or else to throw over a Rope about his Horns to noose him. But this is a des­perate 30 attempt, and he had need be sure that the Hart is out of his reach of Ground, otherwise he will endanger his life, or spoiling. Nor is there less skill required at the last, when he is spent, and the Dogs are at Bay on Land, for then he endangers Horse and Man: You must therefore wisely go to work, for the chief glory in a Victory is to be without loss or hurt.

The Hart or Stag at Bay.40

AS to the Land Bay, if the Hart be frayed, and burnished, then the place is well to be considered of; for if it be in a Hedge side, or Thicket, then whilst he is stareing on the Hounds, you may come covertly amongst the Bushes be­hind him, and so kill him; but if you miss, and he turn Head upon you, it is convenient to take refuge behind some Tree; or when he is at Bay, 50 Couple up your Hounds; and when you see him turn head to fly, Gallop in roundly and kill him with your Sword or Gun, before he can have time to turn head upon you; But if he be at Bay in a plain and open place, where there is no Wood, Tree, nor Covert, 'tis dangerous and difficult to come to him.

T [...]e Death of the Stag, with the Ceremo­nies 60 to be observed therein.

HE that gives the falling blow, ought of right to sound the Recheat, to assemble together the rest of the Company, as also the Dogs; also at the Death of a Stag, there are several Cere­monies that should be observed.

When the Huntsmen come in to the Death of the Hart, they should cry Ware Haunch, that the Hounds may not break in to the Deer, which be­ing secured, the next business is to cut his Throat, and to Reward the young Hounds with the Blood, to make them in love with a Deer, and learn to keep at the Throat; then having sounded the Mot, or Morts, he that is to break him up (that is, to take say,) first, slits the Skin from the cutting of the Throat downwards, making the Arber, so that the Ordure may not break forth; then he is to be Paunched, and the Hounds to be rewarded therewith. Another Ceremony is, the Huntsman presents the Person that took the Essay with a drawn Hanger, to have a Chop at his Head, and after him, every one hath a Chop if it is not cut off; and generally the Huntsman, or Keeper is provided with such a Hanger, that is not over Sharp, that there may be the more Chops for the gaining more Fees, every one giving him a Shilling at least: which done, the Huntsman takes up the Head, and shews it to the Hounds for their Encouragement, Rewarding the Young ones with the Blood. And the concluding Ceremo­ny, is to blow a Treble Mot by one, and then a whole Recheat in Consort by all that have Horns Bare-headed, with a general Ho-up: Upon which they depart Home; the Hart is carried away in a Cart, together with the Head, and the Hounds coupled up, and carried Home by the Keeper.

And you must observe that the Bloodhound must be first Rewarded, for that Honour belongs to him; and when he hath done, then Reward the rest, especially the young; and as near as you can let your Rewards be given them Hot, which is much better than cold, which is the ill Custom of many Huntsmen.

But it hapneth very often, that through some accident or other the Hart escapeth; now for the recovering the Chase the next day, let there be some Marks set, where the Chase is left off; and go to that place with your Bloodhound, together with the Kennel of Hounds behind them, and let him that hath the best Hound, and most ten­der Nosed, undertake to draw endways in the Tracts and ways that the Hart most probably went (for they do most commonly run endways, as far as they have force) and then if they find any Water or Soil, they continue sometimes therein, which doth so stiffen their Joynts at their coming out, that they can't go far, nor stand up long; so that they are constrained to take Harbour in any place they can find, that is Co­vert where they may feed as they lye, and let some others draw to you out of the Coverts, by the most comodious places for them to mark, and for the Hounds to vent in; and if any chance to find where any hath leapt, or gone, he shall put the Hound to it, Hooping twice, or blowing two Mots with his Horn, to call in his Company, and the rest of the Kennel to come in; and if it be the Hart which they seek, let the best Hound be put thereunto, and let the Company separate them­selves, and go several ways to the outsides of the Covert, and if they find where he hath gone into some likely Covert or Grove, then let the Hounds be drawn near unto them, and beat cross through [Page]

STAGG TAKEING S [...]Y [...] To the Right Honourable George Lord Nevill▪ Baron of Bergevenny &tc

This Plate is Humbly Dedicated by Richard Blome

[Page] [Page]

The Stagg at B [...]y

To the Right Honourable Trancis Viscount Newport of Bradford, Treasurer of his Majestyes Household, and Lord Leiutenant of the County of Salop &c.

This Plate is Humbly Dedicated by Richard Blome.

[Page] [Page]

The Death of the Hart

To ye Rt. Hoble Henry Duke of Beaufort, Marquess & Earle of Worcester, Baron Herbert of Chipstow, Raglan, & Gower [...] Ld. President, & Ld. Leivtenant of Wales, & ye Marches; Ld. Leivtenant of ye Counties of Glocester, Hereford, & Monmouth, & of ye Citty & County of Bristoll: Ld. Warden of his Majtys: forest of Dean, & Constable of ye Castle of Sd. Briavells, Kt. of the most noble order of the Garter, & one of ye Ld•. of his Majtys. most Hon [...]ble Privy Councell &ct. This Plate is humbly dedicated by R. Blome.

[Page] [Page]

Takeing Say of ye Stagg

[Page] [Page]

Stagg Hunting. Viz Choping at his head.

To the Rt. Honble William Stanley Earle of Derby Lord Stanley & Strange of Knocking Vicount Kinton Bart of Weeton Ld. Mohun. Burnet Basset and Lacy [...] Ld Leivtenant of Lancashire and Cheshire and Admirall of the seas thereto belonging Chamberlaine of Chester and Lord of Man and of the I [...]les

This Plate is humble dedicated by R. Blome

[Page] [Page]

The End of ye Chase of ye Stagg

To The Honourable Sr. Arthur Randon of Randon Hall in the West Rid [...]ing of York Shire Baronet.

This Plate is humbly dedicated by Richard Blome.

[Page] [Page 85] it; and if they renew their Slot, they must con­sider whether it be the right or not; and if he that draweth perceiveth it to be the right, let him blow two Mots, to call in the Company; and if he chance to find five or six Layres one after ano­ther together, do not take it for a Herd of Deer as many think; for when a Hart hath been long run and spent, he will make many Layres together, because he can't well stand up to Feed, but Feeds lying.10

For the Hunting the Hart or Stag. I shall not descend to every Particular; for 'tis an Exercise that requires both your Wit, Patience, and Po­licy, with relation to the variations of the Ground, Situations, Woods, Rivers, and an hundred more Accidents that may intervene; this Chase seldom or never being after one and the same manner, but different according to the Weather, the condition of the Dogs, and the strength of the Hart, with many other Considerations that re­quire 20 your Skill, or else you may chance to lose the Hart by default, which amongst Wood-men is a disgrace. He should be therefore wise and bold, good at both fore and after Game; neither ought he to be discouraged at every lit­tle ilconveniency; for being put off from his Chase through any accident of violent Storm, the Nights approach, or the like, he ought to Blemish on the last View or Slot, and to it again in the Morning with the Draught or Blood­hound, 30 as before directed, and fear not success; for 'tis the nature of the Hart, when he is close run and almost spent, to make forth on Head, and to descend at the first Soil, to cool and refresh himself, where he useth to continue (if not pursued) so long, that his Limbs become stiff, and almost disabled from runing, and therefore betakes himself to the next shelter he meets with, and consequently becomes an easie Chase the next Morning, if the Huntsmen under­stand 40 their business, and follow the aforesaid In­structions.

The Profits and Advantages of the Stag.

I Shall conclude this Chapter of the Princely Hart, with letting you know the Profits and Advantages, which are generally reputed to ac­company this goodly Creature; and first for his 50 Skin, which being drest is excellent for Coats, Belts, Gloves, and the like. His Flesh surpasseth all other Venison, if in the pride of his Grease; otherwise it is reputed hard, dry, and melan­choly: The Calfs and Hinds, are esteemed bet­ter food than the Harts. The Marrow and Sewet are excellent for all such Oyntments, Plaisters, and Cataplasms, as are designed for cold Gouts and hard Tumors. The Horns are said to be Anti­dotes against Poyson, being little inferiour to 60 those of the Vnicorn, if there be any such Beast; they are great Restoratives, and an excellent Cordial in Fevers and all Pestilential Diseases; and of Harts-horn there is made a most excel­lent Jelly, which is esteemed very good for Eld­erly Men, especially if married to young Bux­som Women: The Horns of a young Hart, whilst they are tender, being cut into little pieces, and put into an Earthen Pot with some Pepper and Myrrh, and so set into an Oven until they be dry (the Pot being close stopt) makes a sin­gular Powder for the Collick, being mixt with Wine, and so drank.

The next is the Blood, which hath many ex­cellent Virtues for all kind of Fluxes and Poy­sons; besides, it is effectually good to make the Skin smooth, and clear from all Roughness and Spots; and that makes so many Gentlemen wash their Hands and Faces in the Blood of the Stag after it is newly opened, being hot.

In the Heart is found a Bone, no way infe­rior to the Bezoar, being good against all Swoundings, Faintings, Tremblings, and other Symptoms which [...]ffect the Heart and Brain; and is approved to be most excellent for Women in Labour, even beyond that of the Eagle.

In the last place, his Pizzle, or Genital Mem­ber washt in Water, and that Water being drank, doth immediately ease and cure the Collick, stoppage of the Vrine, and several Maladies inci­dent to the Reins, Kidneys, and Vriters: It is a notable Aphrodisiae, and used for that purpose. 'Tis also most excellent for all manner of Fluxes, for the Plurisie, and Bitings of Venemous Crea­tures.

I shall not descend to give you Instructions, for the applying the aforesaid Parts of the Stag to use, it being a Discourse not so proper for the Subject in hand; but refer you to Books of Physick.

CHAP. VII.
BVCK HVNTING.

HAving said so much of the Hart or Stag, as to his Nature, and the ways of Hunt­ing him, there will remain so much the less touching the Buck, and the Rules for taking him, seeing that he that can hunt a Stag or Hart well, can't Hunt a Buck ill: Besides Fallow-Deer being common amongst us, and those usually in Parks and Enclosures of divers Scituations, and several Statures different from one another, 'tis a hard task to give Instructions for every parti­cular; for in truth it is the proper Art of the respective Keeper of those Parks or Places, to understand the Nature and Craft of his Deer in hunting; all which are to be acquired by Expe­rience more than Reading, yet the Theorick is very good for the better attaining the Practick; however I shall in brief tell you what relates to Buck-hunting, as now adays used.

The great Skill required in hunting the Buck is to keep the Hounds from hunting Counter, or Change, in regard of the plenty of Fallow-Deer, which are usually in the same Ground; nor is there required that Skill in Lodging a Buck, as Harbouring a Stag; neither need you draw so much after a Buck, but you may judge by the [Page 86] View, and observe what Grove or Coppice he en­ters; for he will not wander up and down as the Hart, nor change his Layer so oft, neither use so many Crossings, Doublings, Shifts and Devices; nor doth he flee so far before the Hounds, and avoideth the Highways and open Plains, as much as he can: He is not so crafty and strong to beat a River, or to stay so long at Soil; neither are they so free to take a great River, but being close hunted, they flee into such 10 strong Coverts as they are accustomed unto; and it hath been observed, that some Bucks that have leaped over a Park-Pale, after a Ring or two, have returned of themselves, choosing rather to dye where they are acquainted, than in a strange place.

The Buck leapeth lighter at the Rut, than the Stag; and groaneth as the Hart belloweth, but with a worse noise, and ratling in the Throat. 20

The Buck and Hart are not at amity toge­ther, shuning each others Layers; and being of a sweeter Scent, are more coveted by the Hounds.

The Does begin to Fawn about the end of May, and continue till Midsummer.

The Bucks Mew or shed their Horns, or Heads, every year, about or in April, and part of May; and their new Ones are burnisht about the end of August.

The Buck makes his Fewmishings in divers 30 manners and forms, as the Hart, according to the diversity of his food, and the time of the Day, Morning and Evening; but most com­monly they are round.

The Buck comes in Season the Eighth of July, and goes out at Holy-Rood, which is the Four­teenth of September.

The Doe comes in Season when the Buck goes out, and goeth out at Twelve-Tide. 40

As to this delightful Sport of Buck-hunting, the same Hounds are used which run the Stag. In Forests and Chases, as they lye at Layer, so they are hunted.

In Parks where they are inclosed, the Sport is not so good, by reason of the greater Change and Foyl, unless they break out and run the Country, which they seldom do: But Deer that lye out, though near the Park, make generally better Chases than Forest Deer. 50

The Keeper Shooting a Buck to be Run down.

FOr facilitating the Chase, the Keeper com­monly selects a fat Buck out of the Herd, which he Shoots to Maim him; and then he is Run down by the Hounds.

As to the way of hunting them, the Company 60 usually goes out very Early for the benefit of the Morning; sometimes they have a Deer ready Lodged, if not, the Coverts are drawn until one is rouzed; or sometimes in a Park a Deer is pitched upon, and forced from the Herd, then more Hounds are laid on to run the Chase; if you come to be at a fault, the Old Staunch Hounds are only to be relyed upon until you re­cover him again; if he be Sunk, and the Hounds thrust him up, 'tis called an Imprime, and the Company all Sound a Recheat; when he is Run down, every one strives to get in, to prevent his being torn with the Hounds. Fallow-Deer seldom or never standing at Bay.

He that first gets in, cries Hoo-up, to give No­tice that he is down, and Blows a Death. When the Company are all come in, they Paunch him and Reward the Hounds; and generally the chief Person of Quality amongst them Takes Say; that is, Cuts his Belly open, to see how Fat he is: This done, every one hath a Chop at his Neck, and the Head being cut off is shewed to the Hounds, to encourage them to run only at Male-Deer, which they see by the Horns, and also to teach them to bite only at the Head: Then the Company all standing in a Ring, one Blows a single Death; which done, all Blow a double Recheat, and so conclude the Chase with a general Hollow of Hoo-up, and depart the Field to their several Homes, or to the place of Meeting; and the Huntsman, or some other, hath the Deer cast cross the Buttocks of his Horse; and so carrieth him Home.

CHAP. VIII.
Hunting the ROE-BVCK and DOE.

THe Roe, is a Deer well known in Germany in the Helvetial Alps, and in divers parts of Africa, where there is plenty of them, although not so amongst us.

This Beast is said to be of an exceeding quick sight: They differ not much from the common Deer but in their Horns, which are set with six or seven Branches, not Palmed, but Branchy, and shorter than the Fallow Deer: And whereas the Horns of others are hollow towards the Root, whereunto entreth a certain long Substance, the Horns of these, as also of the Fallow Deer and the Elk are solid, yet full of Pores. They much frequent the Mountains and Rocky places, and are very swift of foot; and when they take Soil swim stoutly, like the Hart.

In October they go to Rut, or to their Tourn, and continue therein about fifteen days, and ne­ver accompany with any other besides his own Doe; nor do they part until she is ready to Fawn, and then she withdraws a good distance, where he can't find her, it being his nature to kill the Young Ones.

The Doe generally brings forth Two, which commonly prove Buck and Doe, and she keeps them out of the Bucks sight until they are fit to shift for themselves; and those two being bred up together, do seldom part.

The Fawn the First Year is called a Kid; the Second, a Girle; the Third, a Hemuse; the [Page]

A Keeper Choseing out of the Heard a fatt Buck to be Shot and run downe.

To ye. Rt. Honble. Richard Butler Baron of Weston in England, Earle of Arran, Vist. Tolough & Baron of Clougrenan in Ireland, 2d. Son to his Grace Iames Duke of Ormond, & one of ye. Lords of his Maty•. most Honourable Privy Councell for Ireland &ct

This Plate is humbly dedicated by Ric. Blome

[Page] [Page]

Shewing ye Bucks head to ye Hounds and Rewarding them

To the Right Honourable Iames Earle of Perth Lord Drummond & Stobhall, Stewart of Strathern & Baluhidder by Inheritance: Lord Iustice Generall of the Kingdome of Scotland, one of the Extraordi­nary Lords of the Session Anno Domin 1682. & now Lord High Chancellor of ye. said Kingdome of Scotland &ca.

This Plate is humbly dedicated by Richard Blome.

[Page]

Fox Hunting, Viz: Oncoupling, & casting of ye Hounds

To the Right Honourable Thomas Earle of Ailisbury & Elgin Discount Bruce of Ampthill, Baron Bruce of Wharlton, Skelton and Kinloss, Hereditary High-Steward of ye Honour of Ampthill, Gentleman of his Majesties Bedchamber, Lord Leiutenant and Custos Rotolorum of ye Countys of Bedford, & Huntington, Recorder & High-steward of Bedford & Huntington &cac.

This Plate is humbly dedicated by Ric: Blome

[Page] [Page]

FOX HUNTING

To the Right Honourable Iohn Drummond, second Son to Iames Earle of Perth Lord Drummond &ca. By right of Mariage Baron of Lundin, & cheife of that Antient Family (which is Descended from Robert Bastard Son of William Sirnamed the Lyon King of Scotland) Lord Treasurer Depute, and one of his Matys. most Honourable privy Councell in Scotland &ca.

This Plate is humbly Dedicated by Richard Blome.

[Page 87] Fourth, a Roe-Buck of the first Head; and the Fifth, a Roe-Buck.

As soon as the Buck comes from his Tourn he Casts his Horns, and few of them after Two Years old fail to Mew about Alhallontide: Their Heads quickly grow out again, for that in March they Fray them. The Buck is always in Season (except in Rutting time,) but never very Fat.

You should be careful of hunting the Doe while she is big with Young, or indeed so long 10 until her Young are fit to live without her, there being a Mercy and Compassion due to all Beasts; besides, their and our Creator hath inhi­bited the Seething of a Kid in the Dams Milk, whereby all such Cruelty is supposed to be for­bidden, which Nature abhors.

They make an exceeding good Chase, hold out long, and flee far End-ways; they cover to run against the Wind for coolness of the Air; and therefore those that hunt them, use to place the 20 Hounds with the Wind. They are most easily taken in the Woods, the Mountains, and Rocky Places being their safest Holds. They are hard­ly known by their Feet, or Fewmots; being hunted, they take their first Ring large, and after­wards hunt the Hounds; that is, do often come back on the Dogs, and being almost down, or can hold out no longer, they take Soil and beat it like the Hart, keeping all their Body under Water, except their Nose to draw Air; nor will 30 they stir thence, until disturbed by the Hunts­men, or the Hounds, coming just upon them. The Crossings and Doublings before the Hounds are termed Trasenings; and you must call him a Fair, and not a great Roe-Buck. The Herd is called a Bevy, of which Six is a small one, be­tween Six and Ten a middle one, and Twelve a great Bevy. The Roe, as before noted, is seldom Fat, so that unless you find Bevy-grease on his Tail upon his breaking up, he is not Venison, and 40 only fit for the Hounds.

The Bowels, Blood, and Feet, are the Reward due to the Hounds, and it is termed the Dole, and the dressing him is termed the Herdlenge.

As for the Hunting the Roe, I shall not give any further Instructions, it being not a Chase a­mongst us.

CHAP. IX.50
Hunting the RAIN-DEER.

THis Country produceth few or none of this sort, so that I shall have the less to say of hunting him.

He is like the Hart, though not so tall, and his 60 head is fuller of Antliers, which are much bigger and wider in compass; he bears Twenty four Branches, or more, according to his Age, having a great Palm on the top, and his fore Antliers are also Palmed.

When he is hunted he flies End-ways, by reason of the heavy Attire on his head, which is his only defence, and chief ornament. He Feedeth like the Hart, and makes his Fewmets sometimes flat, sometimes round, and some say long. He is said to be long-lived, and when he is in his Pride of Grease is excellent Venison.

In those Countreys where they are common, they are seldom hunted at force, but taken with Nets and Shot, for being assailed by Dogs and Men unarm'd, he will endanger the killing or spoiling them; his custom being (that after he hath stood up a great while, doubled, crossed, and used what Subtilties he can to shun the Dogs) to betake himself to a Tree for his last refuge, and so planteth himself with his Buttocks against it, that nothing can assault him but just before, and hangeth down his Head to the ground, whereby all his Body is covered until he find his advantage of ripping up the Bellies of his Pursuers, or otherwise spoiling them; seeming very dreadful to the Hounds, so that they will hardly venture on him.

For the finding out the Rain-Deer, you must use a Bloodhound, as before treated of.

CHAP. X.
Hunting the FOX.

AMongst the Divertisements used by the Gentry of this Kingdom, Fox-hunting is of no small esteem: What has been Wrote on this Subject, and what has likewise gone by Tra­dition, was that which was practised when the Land was much more Woody, and when they abounded so much to be a general Nusance, as Wolves were (especially in the Mountainous parts) before they were destroyed; and Wales was freed from them by an Imposition of Skins, to be paid to the Crown of England, which at large is taken notice of in our British History: But Foxes, the Subject of this Discourse, being then less considerable for the mischief they did, were the less taken notice of; but the Country People receiving great Damages by their destruction of Poultry, Rabbets, Lambs, &c. on which they preyed, were not wanting in their endeavours to destroy them: And the ways by them then used (by what I can understand) was by a great Company of People, with Dogs of all kinds, assembled together, to go to such Woods and Coverts where they thought they were, and so to beset the place, whilst others went in to beat and force them out with some of the Dogs, and to be either Coursed by the rest of the Dogs, or taken in Nets or Hays, set on the out-sides for that purpose. But of late years (by Experience; the Mother of Invention) the knowledge of this (as indeed all other Chases) is arrived to far greater perfection, being now become a very healthful Recreation to such that delight therein; so that I shall in a brief and clear Method give you a Modern Account of Fox-hunting, as it is at this day used by the most Expert in this Chase.

[Page 88] Although this Chase affords great Recreation, yet it is not so full of diversity as that of the Hare, for it leaves a hotter Scent, so that there are but few Dogs but will hunt the Fox with all imaginable eagerness; but as his Scent is hottest at hand, so it dies soonest.

The Fox doth not much trust to his Strength of Body, or swiftness of Legs, but endeavours to preserve himself by policy in Coverts and Thick­ets; and being hard run when he can stand up no 10 longer before the Hounds, will draw toward those places where he useth to Earth, and then he makes his Caves his places of Defence; nor can he be got out, unless the Ground be soft; but generally his Kennel is betwixt the Clifts of Rocks, in Stony or Craggy places, or amongst the Roots of strong Trees, very deep, and of a difficult ac­cess, having commonly but one Hole for entrance, which goeth very deep before it comes to his Kennel. But he seldom takes the pains to make 20 any, it being the work of the Badger, his busi­ness being but to find it out, and take up his Quarters therein, which he soon hath to himself; for his Stink is so offensive to the Badger, that he quits it, and makes another.

As to the Nature of the Fox, he is a Beast of great Subtilty, as well in his Preying, and pla­ces of Sanctuary, as in his Chase; to give you a particular account thereof, would be too tedi­ous for this Discourse, nor are they unknown to 30 most that use the Chase.

In many respects he is of the Nature of the Wolf. When a Bitch-Fox is Bragged, and with Cub, she is hardly to be taken; for then she lieth near the Earth, and upon hearing the least Noise, she betakes her self to her place of Sanctuary. When a Bitch-Fox goeth a Clicketing, seeking for a Dog-Fox, she crieth with a hollow Voice, not much unlike the howling of a Mad-Dog; And in the same manner she cries when she misses any of 40 her Cubs; but when they are killed she crieth not, defending her self to the last Gasp. When she is Salt, her biting is Venemous. A Fox being pin­ched with Hunger, will prey on Vermine or Ca­rion, for want of other Food; But his usual Food is Poultery, Rabets, and the like, being found a great Enemy to Warrens and Henhouses; and there be some that are so Crafty, as to lye lurking all day in Ditches, and under Hedges near Houses, to espy Poultrey for their prey at Night.50

The Fat of a Fox is termed Grease, which is e­steemed good for Shrunk Sinews, being Bathed therewith. The Print of his Claws on the Ground is called his Footing. That which for a Hart is termed Harbouring, for a Fox is termed Kennel­ling.

The Fox though esteemed by all the craftiest Beast that is, yet is taken several ways, as by Hounds, Greyhounds, Nets, and Gins: For the ta­king him with the two last, I shall Treat else­where,60 and with Greyhounds the Case is not often; so that my business will be only for the Hounds and Terriers, their Assistants, when he takes Earth, of which more anon.

The best Season to hunt the Fox, is in the Months of November, December, January, Februa­ry and March; for before 'tis disadvantageous to the Scent, and the two first Months are the best, the Leaves then being rotten upon the Ground, which before obstruct the Scent; also the Hounds are best seen to Hunt, and the Earthings are sooner found; again in cold weather the Hounds hunt best, the Fox then having the strongest Scent, but it sooner dyeth than in a hotter Season. But Frosty and Snowy Weather are altogether un­fit.

For the Hunting the Fox, the Hounds or Beagles, generally made use of, are such that have good Mettle, are stout and well Quartered. But they should differ according to the Countrey where they are hunted (as indeed in all other Chases); for those proper for the open Champain Countries, are the Northern Hounds, which are Fleet of Foot, and being thin Skinned, are not so proper for Thick Coverts and Bushy Enclosures, as the Southern Hounds which are Thick Skinn'd, and slow Footed, are not good for long Chases that the Champain Countries afford. Also the Northern Hound, and the Southern Beagle, makes a good strain for this Sport.

As to the Method now observed in hunting the Fox: Having found a Foxes Earth, about Mid­night before you design to Hunt, the next Morn­ing for preventing his Earthing, cause all his Holes to be stopt that you can find, except the main Hole or Eye, that is most beaten, which stop not until about Day-break, for fear of stop­ing him in; which done, let the Huntsman have all the Dogs in Couples, and being come to the Wood that you first design to try, first throw off your sure Finders, or Staunch Hounds, being such that will undertake no other Scent, but that of the Fox (for Woods and Coverts are full of change) and when one or more of them opens, 'tis a sure sign that he is upon the Scent, that is, where the Fox hath passed that Night; which is called a Drag, or Trail. If you find the rest of the Hounds that were cast off, to improve up­on it, and that the Cry mends, 'tis most proba­ble they are right; and as the Drag mends, cast off more that you can confide in. But if the Scent fails, then 'tis supposed they run it Counter, and in such Case they must be taken off; and try them the other way.

Upon the Hounds improving the Scent, whether the one way or the other; the Huntsman on Foot (that hath the charge of the coupled Hounds, and before that must have Hardled them, that is, with a Slip, for the purpose ready secured three or four Couple together, that they may not break in from him, to run into the Cry of the Finders) is called upon to throw in two or three Couple more of his Staunchest Hounds; during this while they are encouraged by the Huntsman, until they make it out to the place where the Fox is, which is called Kennelled, and is soon discovered by the Hunsters from the encrease of their Cry; then the most opportune time is watched, to throw off the major part of the Coupled Hounds.

The Fox when finding himself so hotly pur­sued, that he can't secure himself in those Coverts and Places he is acquainted with; and that when one great Slight faileth him, which is to hunt the Hounds just as they do him, whereby they are [Page] [Page]

Earthing the Fox.

To the Rt Worshipfull Sr Thomas Barnardiston of Kediton in Suffolk Baronet▪

This Plate is humbly dedicated by R Blome.

[Page] [Page]

Death of the Fox

To the Worshipfull Alan Bellingham of Leaven in the County of Westmore land Esq:

This plate is humbly Dedicated by Ric: Blome

[Page 89] many times at a loss, or great fault (which is chiefly prevented by their quartering of the Hounds) then is unwillingly forced to forsake them, and trust wholly to his Feet, leading them from Wood to Wood, a Ring of four, six, or ten Miles and sometimes endways about twenty miles, trying all the Earths he knows, which as near as possible should be stopt the Night before the Hunting, as aforesaid.

The Huntsman on Foot must cross (with what 10 Hounds he hath in reserve) from Wood to Wood, to be as much as possible in the way, to throw them off when called upon, as an encouragement to the rest (they being Fresh) and at the same time must endeavour as much as he can, to encourage the Finders or Staunch Hounds, that begin to run lag, that as occasion may offer to have them ready for a dead Scent, or as is thought fit for the latter end of the Day.

Many times they kill the Fox upon the Turf; 20 but if he gets to an Earth, and enters it, they cry Ho-up, as at the Death, supposing the Chase ended; and blow a Horn to call in the Company.

Earthing the FOX.

HAving Earthed the Fox, the next business is to get Countrymen with Shovels, Spades, Mattocks, Pickaxes, &c. to dig him out, if they 30 think the Earth not too great; and for their faci­litating the same, the Huntsman must be provi­ded with one or two good Terriers, to put into the Earth after him, to lay him up; that is to fix him into an Angle, (which may be sooner done, according to the Opinion of some, by putting a Coller of Bells on the Terriers Neck) for the Earth oft times consists of divers Angles; and the use of the Terrier is to know where the Fox lyeth, for as soon as he finds him, he con­tinues 40 Baying or Barking, so that which way the Noise is heard, that way dig unto him; and when he is dug up, sometimes he is thrown a­mongst the Hounds to Blood and encourage them; and this will make them lye at an Earth, when they come to a strange Wood, and to an unknown Earth; and sometimes he is reserved alive, and hunted another Day, which is called a Bag-Fox. 50

The Death of the FOX.

FOr Rewarding your Dogs, when the Fox is killed, hollow in all the Pack to Bay him, but do not Reward them therewith, as being not good for them; but follow the former Directions for the Rewarding them.

If the Earth proves so Deep and Rocky, that there is no possibility of diging him out, usually 60 Steel [...] the Mouth of the Earth, or else a Hay is pitched round it; and so watch to take him at his going off, which will be in the Night following, and oft times sooner; for his heat, and the coolness of the Earth, will not suffer him to stay in long: So that when he ap­prehends all things are quiet above, he comes out.

Of Terriers.

AS concerning Terriers, every one that is a Fox-Hunter is of Opinion, that he hath a good Breed; and some will say, that the Ter­rier is of a peculiar Species of it self; I shall not say any thing as to the Affirmative, or Ne­gative part; only give me leave to say that such Terriers that are Bred out of a Beagle and a Mungril Mastiff generally prove good; and indeed any small thick Skinn'd Dog that hath Courage, and that will run into the Holes, and lye Baying at the Fox, is one for the purpose, which this sort will do, for he hath Courage, and a thick Skin, as participating of the Cur, and is Mou­thed from the Beagle, as before taken notice of.

The Season for Entring these Terriers is at ten or twelve Months Old, for if you Enter them not within the year, you will hardly bring them to take Earth; neither must they be bafled or over-mastered at first making, for then they will hardly return to it any more; Therefore be careful not to enter them upon old Foxes, or Badgers, but take such a time when they have their young, and are gone abroad to seek Prey. You must also encourage them, by putting in an old Staunch Terrier to lead the way, that if it happen that an old Fox should be there, he might be worried by him for their further Encourage­ment.

When Foxes have young Cubs, take an old Terrier, and put them into their Earth; and when they begin to Bay (which is called Yearning) hold the young Terrier at the Mouth of the Earth, to the end they may hear the old one Yearn.

If you take any young Cub with young Terri­ers, let them kill it; and take their pleasure thereon.

CHAP. XI.
Hunting the BADGER.

THere are two sorts of Badgers, Dog-Bad­gers, as resembling a Dog in his Feet; and a Hog-Badger, as resembling a Hog in his cloven hoofs; these latter differ from the former being whiter and bigger, and have their Heads and Snouts thicker, and do also differ in their Food, the one eating Flesh and Carion like a Dog, and the other Roots and Fruits like a Hog; And these sort of Badgers where they have their Earths, use to cast their Fiants or Dung in a small hole, and cover it, whereas the Dog-Badgers make their Fiants at a good distance from their Burrows, which are deep, with va­riety of Chambers, Holes and Angles. The Hog-Badger being fat and lazy, Earths in open, easy and light grounds, whereas the other sor [...] frequents Thickets, Rocks and mountainous pla­ces, [Page 90] making their Retreats deeper and narrow­er.

A Badger is known by several other Names, as a Gray, a Brock, and a Boreson or a Bauson; the young ones are called Pigs, the Male is called the Boar, and the Female the Sow.

The Badger is naturally a very sleepy Crea­ture, and seldom stirs out but in the Night sea­son to seek his Prey; and above all other food Hog-flesh is most grateful to his palate, in so­much 10 that if you take a peece of Pork and train it over the Badgers Burrow he will soon make his approach out: They live to a great Age, and when their sight faileth by old age they keep to their Burrows, and receive their Food from the younger.

By nature they are very chill and cold, and when it snoweth they go not forth; Their Flesh is of a sweet rankish tast, but is eaten in many Countries; the best season is in September. 20 They have very sharp and venemous Teeth; their Legs are longer on their right side than on their left, so that when they run they choose a side of a Hill, Bank, Furrow, or Cartroot.

The Dog-Badgers Ears, Snout, and Throat are yellowish, and are longer Legged than the Hog-Badger. They accompany not together yet they both prey on all manner of Fowl, young Pigs, Rabets and the like food, doing great hurt in Warrens. They are stout and hardy in 30 defending themselves, and will endure good blows, yet their Nose and Snout is so tender that a little blow thereon will kill them.

Although the Badger and the Fox are much alike in several qualities, yet do they often make War with one another, especially on the Account of Food, so that it is good sport to see the contest betwixt them. The hunting and pursuing them however is much at one to­wards the conclusion, for the Badger runs to 40 his Earth or Burrow much sooner than the Fox, and being Earthed maks good and defends his [...]astle much longer, and to say truth, the plea­sure of this Chase doth chiefly consist in the Vnkennelling and Vnearthing of them, which requires skill and labour.

You are to take notice, that although all Hounds will eagerly pursue and hunt both the Fox and Badger, yet there is none of them that will endure to feed on their flesh; and 50 there are some Dogs more proper for this Chase than others, and those are the Terriers alrea­dy spoken of in the Chapter of Fox Hunt­ing.

The labour and ingenuity of the Badgers in making their Burrows is worth observation; when they Earth, after they have entred a good depth, for the clearing the Earth out, one lieth on his Back, and another layeth Earth on his Belly, and so taking his hinder Feet in his 60 mouth draweth him out of the Burrow, and having unladen himself of the Earth goeth to the same work, and this they do till their Chambers or places of Retreat are finished; then they proceed to gather in their Furniture, that is, the materials for their Couch or Lodging, as Straw, Leaves, Moss and the like, which with their Feet and Head they wrap up so close to­gether, that they will get to their Burrows a pretty good Bundle, some Burrows have 7 or 8 distinct Chambers.

In hunting the Badger you must seek the Earths, and Burrows where he lieth, and in a clear Moonshine Night go and stop all the Bur­rows except one or two, and therein place some Sacks fastned with drawing strings, which may shut him in as soon as he straineth the Bag. Some use no more than to set a Hoop in the mouth of the Sack, and so put it into the Hole, and as soon as the Badger is in the Sack and straineth it, the Sack slippeth off the Hoop and follows him into the Earth, so he lieth tumbling therein till he is taken. These Sacks or Bags being thus set, cast off the Hounds, beating about all the Woods, Coppices, Hedges and Tufts round about for the compass of a Mile or two, and what Badgers are abroad, being alarmed by the Hounds, will soon betake them­selves to their Burrows; and observe that he that is placed to watch the Sacks, must stand close and upon a clear wind; otherwise the Badger will discover him, and will immediately fly some other way into his Burrow. But if the Hounds can encounter him before he can take his Sanctuary, he will then stand at Bay like a Boar, and make good sport, grievously bit­ing and clawing the Dogs, for the manner of their fighting is on their Backs using both Teeth and Nayls, and by blowing up their skins de­fend themseves against all Bites of the Dogs, and Blows of Men, except on their Noses, as aforesaid. And for the better preservation of your Dogs 'tis good to put broad Collers about their Necks made of Grays Skins.

When the Badger perceiveth the Terriers be­gin to Yearn him in his Burrow, he will stop the Hole betwixt him and the Terriers, and if they still continue Baying, he will remove his Couch into another Chamber or part of the Bur­row, and so from one to another, Barrocading the way before them as they retreat, until they can go no further.

If you intend to dig the Badger out of his Burrow, you must be provided with those Tools already treated of for the diging out the Fox; besides which you should have a Pail of water to refress the Terriers when they come out of the Earth to take breath and cool themselves; It will also be necessary to put about your Terriers Necks Collers of Bells, which making a noise, may occasion the Badgers bolting out.

These Tools thus used for the diging out of the Badger, being troublesome to be carried on Mens Backs, may be brought in a small Cart.

In diging you must consider the situation of the ground, by which you may judge where the chief Angles are; for else in stead of advan­cing the work you will hinder it.

In this order you may besiege them in their strongest Holds or Castles, and may break their Plot forms, Parapets, Casmats, and work to them with Mines, and Counter-Mines, until you have overcome them.

[Page] [Page]

HUNTING ye HARE with deep mouthed hounds

To ye. Rt: Honble: John Lord Robarts Baron of Truro Viscount Bodmyn Earle of Radnor and Lord President of his Ma:•ies most Honourable Priuy Councell. &tc

This Plate is humbly dedicated by Richard Blome

[Page 91] Having taken a live and lusty Badger, if you would make sport, carry him home in a Sack and turn him out in your Court-yard, or some other enclosed place, and there let him be hunted, and worried to Death by your Hounds.

I shall conclude this Chapter with some short Account of the profits and advantages that accrew by killing this Creature; Their Flesh, Blood and Grease, though not good Food, yet 10 is very useful for Physitians and Appothecaries for Oyls, Oyntments, Salves, and Powders; for shortness of Breath, the Cough of the Lungs; for the Stone, Sprained-Sinews, cold Aches, &c. and the Skin being well drest, is very warm and good for Ancient people that are troubled with Paralitick Distempers.

CHAP. XII.20
Hunting the HARE.

THis Chase affords Delight and Recreation to every Man; for none but Persons of Estate and Quality have the Priviledges and Con­veniences of Forests, Chases, and Parks; but Men 30 of a lower Rank may sometimes divert them­selves with the Hare.

Now although Hares are common, and that the hunting them is every mans Sport; yet doth it not cease to be an Art full of Subtilty and Craft, requiring labour and vigilance to carry it on to the designed purpose or end; nor is it without divers delights and varieties, that other Chases do not afford.

There are said to be Four sorts of Hares, so 40 termed according to the places of their abode; viz. Some live in the Mountains, some have their habitation in Coverts and Fields, others in Marshes and Moorish Grounds, and others are Ramblers, as having no constant abode, seeking their sood where they can find it best and se­curest.

Those of the Mountains are the most swift of Foot, and that by their often exercising themselves in the Valleys and Plains; so that when they are 50 hunted in the Fields or Valleys such is their craft, as well knowing the nearest ways to their Forms or places of Abode, that they will fool the Hunts­men by seeming almost taken; but on a sudden will give them the Go-by, and take the nearest way to the Mountains and inaccessible places, where neither Dogs nor Horses can ascend.

Those Hares that frequent the Fields and Coppices, being often chased, are lean of Body, and taken with difficulty; when she begins her 60 Course, she leapeth up from the Ground as if she slew, afterwards passeth through all places, and that with great swiftness, yet not so much as to spend her strength without hotly pursued; for she is observed to take her Measures from her Prosecutors, well knowing that she can out-run the Dogs at pleasure. When she is some distance from them, she usually gets to some little Hill, or Rising-ground, raising her self on her Hinder-feet to espy the Dogs, thereby the better to avoid them.

Those Hares that frequent Marshy or Moorish places, are the slowest on foot, and least able to endure labour; and being hunted, will seldom or never use High-ways, or Beaten-paths, but use their Slights and Subtilties by the sides of Rivers and Watery places; nor are they able to run long before the Hounds for want of Breath, as being so Fat and Foggy through their gross food.

The younger Hares, by reason of their weak Members, tread heavier than the elder, and there­fore leave the stronger Scent behind them. They run very swift at a Year old, and their Scent is stronger in the Woods, than in the plain Fields.

In the Winter Season their Foot-steps are more apparent than in the Summer; for as the Nights grow longer, so they Travel further; neither do they Scent in the Winter Mornings, until the Frost is somewhat thawed; likewise their Foot-steps are uncertain at the Full of the Moon, for then they play together.

Every Limb of a Hare is made for celerity, and therefore she never travelleth, but jumpeth; her Ears lead her the way in her Chase, for with one of them she hearkneth to the Cry of the Dogs, and the other she stretcheth forth like a Sail, to hasten her Course.

In the hunting the Hare, you are principally to observe the Season of the Year, and the Situation of the Ground where you hunt. In the beginning of the Year, that is, about September, (for then the Year begins as to this Sport) Hares repair to Shrubs, Bushes, and the like Shelters, that are near adjoyning to some Coppice, or the like. About December in Fallow-Grounds; and in March in the Green Winter-Corn. In every of these places, or wherever else you find the Form of a Hare, observe if it be new or old, and order your self accordingly. If it be smooth and plain within, the Path before it new and warm, so that you may discern the Pricks and perceive the Earth to be late broken, and that the Hounds call mer­rily on it, then endeavour to recover the Hare upon the Trail, and with good success. But if you find reason to judge it an old Form, proceed not on it, though the Dogs call on it, but rate them back, for it will be lost labour.

Hares are very Melancholy, and consequently very Fearful and Crafty, insomuch that when they go out of their Form, they endeavour the most they can to get dry and clean into it, to the end they may rest warm; and in that they par­take of the nature of the Cat, that loves Fish, but hates Water; yet some Hares, being close hunted, will take the Water, crossing and doubling about twenty times over and over in about the space of half a Mile.

They are distinguished by the names of Bucks and Does, and some call the Males Jack Hares. They go to Buck in January, February and March, and sometimes in all the warm Months.

An expert Huntsman may distinguish Hares, as to their Sex, Strength, Age and Craftiness, by these and other signs. If when a Hare riseth [Page 92] out of her Form, she sets up her Ears, and runs a little slowly at first, with her Skut cast over her Back, 'tis a sure sign she is an old crafty beaten Hare. When you hunt a Hare to her Form, if you find she hath beaten the hard High-ways, that she feedeth at a good distance out into the Plains; and that her Doublings and Crossing; are wide and large, you may conclude 'tis a Jack Hare; for the Females usually keep close to the side of some Grove or Coppice, and 10 turn and wind like a Coney in the Bushes; and when she goeth to Relief in the Corn-fields, doth seldom cross over the Furrows, but follow them, feeding on the thick Tufts of Corn; and when she is hunted, will use many Doublings and Turn­ings, but seldom makes out End-ways, or Fore­right.

But the Jacks, after two or three Turns about his Form takes his leave, and gives the Hounds a breathing of four or five Miles, and sometimes 20 more before they can turn his Head, and then will squat in some place where ('tis probably) he hath formerly preserved himself. You may also know a Jack Hare at his rising out of his Form by his Hinder parts, which are more whitish; also his Head is shorter, and better trussed; his Ears are shorter and more gray; his Shoulders are redder, and the Hair on his Lips are longer than the Females; for the Doe hath her Ears long, her Head long and strait, the Hair on her 30 Back of a dark Gray, inclining to a Black, and is larger in Body than the Buck. The Croteys, or Excrements of a Buck, are lesser, dryer and sharper at the end, than the Does.

The Hare is said to know the change of the Weather, from twenty four hours to twenty four. Some Hares by haunting the low Watery places, do become foul and measled; and such Hares do never follow the hard Ways, nor make such paths to their Forms, but use all their 40 Subtilties by the sides of Rivers, and other Wa­ters. And by the way you must know, that the Females are not so commonly foul and meas­led as the Males; so that a Huntsman may judge by the relief and feed of the Hare what she is, and which way she formeth. A Jack Hare will abide the approach of the Hounds nearer him, when he sitteth, than the Female; because he feeleth his Body better disposed, more hardy and quicker.50

The Huntsman, when he perceives by his Hounds that the Hare hath passed by him at Relief, upon the High-ways side, and that she hath crossed and doubled much on dry places, and yet not much broken out, nor Relieved in the Corn; he may be confident, that it is a Passenger or Stranger in those parts: The nature and use of such Hares is this; They get them to some high Rising-ground, and take a view where they may secure themselves; and when 60 perchance they are started out of their Form they double, winding about to their Forms, as unwilling to forsake them; but when they find the Hounds hold in with them, then they may chance to lead them a Dance of seven or eight Miles cross the Countrey.

The Subtilties of the Hare, when she is hunted.

OF all Chases, the Hare makes the best di­version, and sheweth the most cuning in hunting, and is of greatest use, for that they may be found at all times, and hunted in most Seasons of the year with a small charge; and to add to the pleasure of this Chase, the Game is usually in sight (especially if hunted with your Fleet or Northern Hounds) so that her Subtilties and cuning Shifts to avoid the Hounds, are for the most part seen. I shall here take notice of some of them.

If a Hare chance to run before a Pack of Hounds, either in, or presently after any Rain, she will hardly take into the Woods; by reason of the Dew and Wet that hangs on the small low Boughs, but will often squat under a Hedge-side; and when the Dogs have over-shot her, will return to her Form. To prevent which, the Huntsman ought to hang back a good di­stance from the Wood or Grove, which she seem­eth to enter, to the intent he may hallow off his Dogs before the Hare be too far gone.

Whosoever hath hunted one and the same Hare twice, and doth not kill her the third time, deserves not the name of an Huntsman; for ge­nerally they use the same slights, doublings, and crossings, so that they may easily be prevented in any one, which defeats them of all the rest: And if it be Rainy-weather, she will hold the High-ways more than at any other time.

The Huntsman must mark in what place the Hare sitteth, and upon what Wind she makes her Form; for if either upon the North or South-Wind, she will not willingly run into the Wind, but upon a Side-wind, or else down the Wind. Also if a Hare Forms on the Water-side, 'tis a sign she is foul and measled; therefore in hunt­ing such a Hare, good care must be taken all the day unto the Brook-sides, for at such places she will make all her Doublings and Crossings. Some again will swim over great Pools and Ri­vers; others will put an exchange upon you, by starting up a fresh Hare out of her Form, and sit in it her self: Sometimes they will double twenty or thirty times in about forty Yards forwards and backwards over a Brook; and some­times they will rest themselves in the midst of the Water upon Weeds, or Bulrushes. A Hunts­man must likewise observe whether it be a Buck or a Doe, and whether she be acquainted with the place, or a Stranger; for doubtless a Hare that is wonted to a certain place, especially a Female, will all the day that she is hunted hold the same ways, cast about the same Coasts, and pass by the same Muses until her death, or escape; unless she be hard run, so that she is forced to make out End-ways before the Hounds; but at first she will do nothing but Turn, Cross, and Double, passing several times one way, and in the same Path. Some Hares are so cuning, that upon hearing the noise of the Huntsmans Horn (although at a good distance) will leave [Page] [Page]

The Death of ye Hore wth. Fleet Hound.

To the Right Worshipfull Sr. Robert Dashwood of Norbrook and Wickham in Oxford shire Kt.

This Plate is humbly dedicated by Richard Blome.

[Page 93] their Form, and take Sanctuary on som Weeds or Bulrushes in a River. Sometimes when they are hard hunted they will go to Vault, that is, take the ground like a Coney; others, if an op­portunity offers, will go up one side of a Hedge, and come down the other side; and some will run on the very top of a close Hedge, about an hundred Yards together; also some are said to be so subtile as to get into the Windows of an old decayed House, for shelter from the Hounds: 10 Sometimes being hard hunted they will run into a Flock of Sheep, and will continue in the midst of them like unto the Fox. Sometimes she will leap, and make heading; otherwhiles will tread softly, to leave the less Impression behind her; and sometimes she will lye down, and ever and anon leap, or jump out and into her Form; all which doth much perplex the Dogs to find her Scent: For all which Causes, it is good to help the Hounds as much as possible with Voice, 20 Horn, and Hand. To conclude, They use many Subtilties and Shifts to preserve their poor lives; so that the Huntsman had need be very circum­spect and industrious, otherwise he may soon spoil his Dogs; for as in all Chases the Hare makes the greatest diversion, so it is a great de­light to see the many Stratagems they have to save their lives.

For a Hound that is a perfect Haryer, may be bold to hunt any Chase; but the Hare of all 30 Games leaves the least Scent behind her; but when once your Dogs have been accustomed to the Stag or Buck, 'tis not easie to bring them in love with the Hare again.

When Hares feed on Green Corn they have the greatest Scent, and are then more eagerly pursued by the Hounds; and there are some that naturally give a greater Scent than others, as the great Wood Hares, and such as keep the Marshes and moist Grounds, being foul and measled. 40

Young Hares that have not been hunted are foolish, not using the Crafts, Subtilties, Doublings, and Crossings, as Old ones do; but hold on End­ways before the Hounds, often squatting and starting, which doth much encourage the young Hounds at their first Entring.

The Females are observed to be more crafty than the Males, making their Doublings and Turnings shorter, which is no ways pleasing to the Hounds, who delight more at an End-way 50 Chase; for such Hares that cross and double so often, 'tis necessary at default to cast the greater compass about when you beat to make it out; by which means you will find out all her Sub­tilties, and you need not stick upon any of them, but where she went on forwards; and thereby you will abate her force, and compel her to leave her Doublings and Crossings.

How to Enter young Hounds to the 60 Hare.

FOr Entring young Hounds, be they Nor­thern or Southern Hounds, or Beagles, two or three Huntsmen is sufficient; of which let one serve to rate and beat on such Hounds as keep plodding behind, and the other two may be em­ployed to make the Hounds seek and cast about; for if there be many Huntsmen, they will foyl the Traces and Footings of the Hare, or at least­wise amaze the Hounds with their several Voices, when they are at default; whereas they should receive assistance at such time from them by en­couragement, or otherwise; for above all things 'tis necessary, that the Hounds know their Masters or Huntsmans Voice, and his Horn, for then when it cometh to the hallow, they will sooner come in to his Voice than to any others; therefore he must never hallow them vvithout good cause; and it were not amiss, if he gave them a bit or two of Bread when they come in, for their en­couragement.

It is not good to Enter your young Hounds in the Mornings, because of the Dew and Moisture of the Earth, for then when you bring them to hunt in the heat of the Day, especially in hot Weather, or at some time when the Wind hath dryed up the Moisture of the Earth, they will neither hunt, nor Call on merrily, but will run to the shady places to rest and sleep; therefore the best time to enter young Hounds is in the Heat of the Day, and about October and November, the Weather being then temperate, and young Hares that have not been hunted are then foolish and easier to be taken, which doth much encourage them.

It is observed, that a Hare hath greater Scent, and is more easily hunted by the Hounds when she feedeth upon green Corn, as aforesaid, than at any other time of the Year; and yet also you have some Hares vvhich are naturally stronger Scented than others, and are much more eagerly hunted by the Hounds, and such are those great Wood Hares, and such as keep in Marshy, Watery Grounds, being foul and measled; but the little red Hare is neither of so strong a Scent, nor is so eagerly hunted by the Hounds.

Also remember, that at the Entring your young Hounds, you never help them to kill the Hare with your Greyhounds; for if you accustom them to have Greyhounds to Course before them, they will never take pains, nor put their Noses to the Ground, nor beat about or hunt for the Scent of the Hare; but the best Entring them is with old Staunch Hounds, that understand how to make out a default, and that have good Noses for the Scent.

The best Season of the Year for hunting the Hare, with Directions how to seek her, start her, and hunt her.

THe Season for hunting the Hare, is from September to the beginning of April; for afterwards the sweet Herbs and Flowers that grow about, as also the heat takes away the Scent, together vvith this, that during the Summer they breed their Leverts and are feeble and weak; but the best Season to enter your young Dogs is at the first hand of the year before they are great and strong.

[Page 94] Your Hounds after two years old, may be ex­ercised three times a Week, for which they will be better, provided they Feed well, and keep them out the greatest part of the day, to try their Stout­ness, and to make them bold.

It is observed that a Hare leaveth a better Scent when she goeth to Relief, than when she cometh from her Form, by reason that when she feedeth, she coucheth low, and passeth oft times over one plot to seek good Feeding, and thus 10 leaveth a better Scent; for when she goeth to her Form, she commonly takes the Highways, dou­bling and Crossing, as lightly as she can; and yet she will oft times Squat by the sides of Highways. Now having found where a Hare hath Relieved, the Season of the Year and the Weather must be considered; for if it be Spring, or Summer, a Hare will not sit-in the Bushes, but in Corn-Fields and open places, whereas in Winter they delight to sit near Towns and Villages, in Brambles, and Tufts 20 of Thorns, especially when the Wind is Southern­ly or Northernly.

According to the Season and Nature of the place where the Hare is accustomed to sit, there beat with your Hounds to start her, which is much better sport than Trailing of her from her Relief to her Form; and having hollowed in your Hounds, and all of them in full Cry, then Recheat to them with your Horn, following fair and softly at first, for fear of their over-shooting 30 the Chase through too much Heat; but after a­bout an hours Course, you may come in nearer with the Dogs: And above all things, be sure to observe well her first Doublings, which must be your Directions for the whole Days Chase; and if the Hounds fall at Default, 'tis a sign that the Hare hath made some Doublings, or Crossings, or that she hath gone and come back again the same way, in such case do not over-shoot it, but make a stay, and let the Hounds beat about 40 to find the Scent in the fresh green places, and forget not to Reward the Hounds and to en­courage them.

And if you chance to find an old Form, let the Huntsman be provided with a piece of Bacon, and therewith anoint the end of his Hunting-Pole, and whensoever he would point his Hounds to a Muse, or to any place, let him but strike his Pole on the Ground, and the Hounds will go through the Muse, or come into any place where 50 he shall point them, and hunt it much better. But if the Huntsman when he hath cast about, find that the Hare is gone out beyond the compass he casteth, then let him call back his Hounds to the place where they first came at Default, and there beat with the Hounds, still outwards on both sides of the way; for oft times the Hare followeth the High-ways very far to Double, Cross, and use her Policies, and will not go out of the way for about a Mile together; and in such pla­ces the Hounds can have no Scent, by reason of 60 the Dust, and other Impediments; and yet they will Squat upon, or near the out-sides of the ways; and therefore let the Huntsman beat the sides of the ways very well.

There are some Lands in which a Dog can ne­ver make any Scent, and such are those that are of a low, fat, glutinous, and greasy shining Mould, and those give more Scent than they receive; therefore the Huntsman must help out the Dogs by pricking, for generally those Soils are moist, and apt to receive impressions. In Plains and Downs there is very short Grass, and few or no Shrubs or Bushes; so that the Scent dryeth immediately, and in such places the Eye must help the Nose.

Beware how to hunt in Frosty weather, for then Hares run best, and Dogs worst; for the Hare hath his Feet furred, as it were for the same purpose; but the Dogs are all bear, and be­sides the cutting or bruising their Feet, doth en­danger the losing their Claws, and consequently the spoiling the Dogs. Likewise in Frosty weather the Scent freezeth with the Earth, so that there is no certainty until it thaw, or that the Sun shineth to soften the Earth. It is likewise found not good to hunt if it Rains, for the drops dis­perse the Scent of the Hare, so that it is best to leave off until it be fair. Likewise the Summer Season is not good to hunt in, for the heat lo­seth the Scent; and the Nights being but short, the Hare goeth not far, and only Feedeth in the Evenings and Mornings.

Some are of Opinion, that according to the places where you first Enter your young Hounds, and the Nature of the Quarry given them, they will accordingly prove for the future; as if En­tred in the plain Champain Countries, they will always take greater delight to hunt there, than in Coverts, Mountains, Marshy Grounds or the like places; therefore it is good to use them to all sorts of Grounds, it being easie to bring them to enjoy a Scent, from a Bleak Down to a fresh Pasture, for good Hounds will soon be Masters of any sort of Ground.

It is an old saying and a true, The more Hares you hunt, the more you may; for when once a Jack and a Doe have accompanied together in a­ny place for some time, they will not permit any o­ther Hare to frequent or use their Territories, but force them away, except their own young; nor will they permit them to stay long after they are able to shift for themselves, so that the more you kill, the more room you make for fresh ones.

There is great exactness required in the first Entring your young Hounds, never use to uncou­ple them in the same kind of Ground; for if you uncouple them three or four times at first in a plain Field, and so hunt to the Form, they will not know what to do, when you turn them loose in a Covert, but let them have diversity of Hunt­ing, that so they may be perfect at all. But to return to the Hare: When any Hound hath accidentlly found the Trail of a Hare, where she hath relieved that Night, the Huntsman must not be too hasty to encourage him, until he hath found her out.

The Huntsman ought to observe how the Winds are, for when North or East, the Hares will be sure to keep close in the Bushes, Tufts, Bram­bles, and the like places; especially in the Win­ter; but in Summer the Snakes, and such like things that frequent such places do anoy them, so that they make use of Corn-Fields, and other places.

[Page] [Page]

Coursing with grayhounds

To the Right Honourable Thomas Savage, Earle Rivers, Viscount Colihester and Rock-Savage, Lord Darcy and Baron of Chich &c.a

This Plate is humbly Dedicated by Richard Blome.

[Page 95] There are some that in Hunting never hollow before the Hare, neither help the Hounds by Pricking, or Laying them on in full fresh Scent, or the like, neither assist them at a default, but suffer them to work it out of themselves: This is confessed to be a sure way to try the goodness of your Hounds, but 'tis tedious and laborious; others there are that take all the advantages they can to help them, by marking which way the Hare bendeth at first, and then they will Coast before 10 to meet her; and at every default help them out, and this is esteemed a ready way to kill all they meet with.

How to Reward the Hounds when they have killed the Hare.

WHen your Hounds have killed the Hare, and that you intend to give over the sport for that time, let the Huntsman if on Hors­back 20 alight, and blow the Death with his Horn, to call in the Company; then let him lay down the Hare in some clean place, upon the Grass or the like, and let the Hounds Bay about it, but suffer them not to touch it; and let them be en­couraged, and made much of, claping and stroak­ing them on the sides, shewing them the Hare. Then take up the Hare, and hulk her, and strip off her skin before the Hounds; and being thus ordered, and the Gall and Lights taken away,30 which will make them sick, proceed to Reward them after this manner; The Huntsman must be provided in his Wallet with Bread cut in small pie­ces, and dipt in the Blood; which distribute to the Hounds, together with the Inwards, except the Lights; and sometimes the whole Hare except the Lights, if you are provided with a Brace or Leesh; and if there are any young Hound that is fearful to come in among the rest, give him the Hares Head by himself, which will much embolden him; but fail not to give your Hounds 40 Bread after it, to prevent Sickness; for 'tis a meat wherein they delight not by Nature, and the An­tipathy between them is improved by Art, for you must understand that the Flesh of a Hare will make a Dog Heartsick, and cause him to vo­mit; but it is otherwise with the Flesh of a Stag, or any other Deer, for that agrees very well with them; and to say truth, the Flesh of a Hare is not very good for Man, being dry, and hard of Disgestion, breeding Melancholy Blood; but 50 Leverets or young Hares are good and nourish­ing.

There are some parts of the Hare that are found good Medicines for some Diseases; for In­stance, The Brains are good for young Children in Breeding Teeth, the Flesh well roasted is good for Fluxes of the Belly. For stopping of the Vrine, take a Hares Skin being made clean, and put it whole into an Earthen pot passed over on the top; and let it stand in two or three hot Ovens, until 60 you find it parched to Powder, of which take an Ounce, and mix it with Rhenish or Whitewine, and drink it every Morning fasting two hours af­ter; and in a short time it is said to break the Stone both in the Vrin and Bladder; but the Bo­dy must first be prepared with some gentle Purge; and whilst you use it, keep plates of Lead on the Patients Reyns about four Fingers broad, sowed between two or three Linnen Cloths; the Gall is said to be for good Eyes that are Filme grown. 'Tis said that their Dung hinders a Womans conception; but though this can't be confirmed for truth, yet this may be said, that it being made into a Suppositorie, and put up the Matrix, restrains the too immoderate Defluxion of the Courses, and dries up the moist Humours, and slipperiness of those parts. The Blood is a great Dryer, and very good to kill all Tetters, Ringworms, Scabs, Mor [...]ues, &c. and makes the Skin smooth and white, and the downy Fur or Wool being burnt to Powder, [...] very good to stop Bleeding.

Warreners have a very crafty way to Fatten Hares, which is to stop their Ears with Wax, to the end they may not hear Noise, for being freed from the fear of sound for want of hearing, they soon become Fat.

CHAP. XIII.
Of GREYHOVNDS, and Cour­sing with them.

THe Greyhound of all Dogs is for Swiftness of Foot, and neatness of Shape to be pre­ferred before all others.

In choosing a Whelp, that which weigheth light­est, generally proves the best and nimblest; also those that are raw-boned, lean, loose made, and for the most part unlike in every Joynt, do make excellent and well-shaped Dogs; whereas those that after three or four Months appear round, close, trust, fat, and well knit in every part are scarce worth the rearing, seldom proving good, swift or comly, and it is observed that the Bitches are commonly more swift and nimble than the Dogs.

At two Years old your Greyhound will be at his full growth, and for the choosing one of an excellent Shape, he should have a fine thin Skin, with soft thin Hair, a long, lean Head, with a sharp Nose, from the Eyes downwards; a full clear Eye, with large Eye-lids, little Ears, a long Neck bending like a Drake, with a loose hanging Weezand, broad Breasted, his Body indifferent long, and reasonable great, with a Back streight and Square, having a rising in the middle, a small Belly, broad Shoulders, round Ribs, with a long space between his Hips, a strong Stern, a round Foot with large Clefts, and his Fore-legs strait and shorter than his hinder.

How to Breed, and order Greyhounds to the best Advantage.

BE sure to Breed on a right tryed Bitch; for an indifferent Dog, may get on such a Bitch very good Whelps: But the best and surest way is to have both the Dog and Bitch good, and then there will be no fear of your Whelps proving [Page 96] excellent; and to be exact, both Dog and Bitch should be of an equal Age, and not exceeding four years, but the Bitch will breed much longer, so that a young Dog Line her.

But although a Geryhound have all the aforesaid good shapes in perfection, and be also excellent in his kind, yet through disorderly keeping he may be spoyled: You must therefore understand the Art both of well feeding, and right entring him.10

How to feed and order Greyhounds.

Your feeding and dieting a Greyhound doth not altogether consist in the meat you give him, but also in his exercise, airing, and kennelling; If he be in a full state the chippings of Bread, or crust steeped in fresh Broth is very good; the like is Milk and Bread, or Butter-milk, soft Bones, with such like good Dyet Mornings and Evenings which 20 will keep him in a good state of body.

If he be sick, or low in state, then take Sheeps-heads, or Feet with the Wool on, chop them in small peeces, boyl them with sweet Herbs and Oatmeal, and make Broth thereof, which is very comfortable, and feed him therewith Morning and Evenings until he is recovered.

Their Kennels must be made airy, and the Dore into the yard should be towards the South for warmness; and let the Benches on which they 30 are to lye, be about two foot and a half from the ground, with Holes bored in the Boards for their Piss to fall away; and on the Benches must be Straw which should be always fresh, and be sure to let their Kennels be kept clean.

When any of your Dogs are to run a wager, then give them Dyet-Bread thus made; Take half a Peck of dryed Oatmeal, and twice as much Wheat, let them be both ground, and bolted through a fine Sieve; then scatter amongst it 40 some beaten Anniseeds and Liquorice, and knead it up with the whites of Egs and new Ale into small Loaves, which bake pretty hard; and this Bread give them soaked in Broth, as aforesaid, Morning and Evening after you have aired and walked them; and this will bring them to strength of wind and body.

The Exercise of your Greyhound consists in airing and coursing him; you must Course him at least twice a week, if your Courses be long and 50 strong, else every other day; and in Coursing Reward and encourage him with the Blood, that he may delight in his Course.

At the first Entring him, for once or twice let him have an advantage of the Game, which is best to be a young Hare, and not giving her Law; but afterwards you may let him labour for it; yet not so much as to baffle him by giving the Hare too great Law. And thus you may discern the ut­termost ability and strength of your Dog. 60

After a hard Course it were not amiss to wash his Feet with Water and Salt (which is far better than broaken Beer and Butter made luke-warm, being the usal way) and so put him to his Kennel, and about half an hour after feed him.

If he kils his Game he must be Rewarded by giving him the Heart, Liver and Lights; but suffer him not to break the Hare, but take her from him, otherwise he will be brought to an ill custom many times in tearing those he kills, be­fore you can come in to him.

Upon Coursing days give him in the Morning be­fore you air him a Toast and Butter, or Toast and Oyl, and nothing else.

Your Airing must be thus; first rub him with a hair cloth in his Kennel; then take him into your Leach about half an hour after Sun-rising, and walk him out into some place where no Sheep or Cattle are, suffering him to play with you, and to frisk about to empty himself; then take him into your Leach and lead him home to his Kennel; the same method must be used in the Evening; and in the Winter permit him once a day to enjoy the benefit of the Fire: And it were not amiss if you keep him always in his Kennel, where he may neither do nor receive hurt; And it is observed to breed in them Lust, Spirit and Nimbleness, and keep the Pores from Spen­ding until time of necessity.

Greyhounds that are bred in low fat Grounds and deep Vales, are said to out-run those that are bred in smooth Downs.

COVRSING.

COursing with Greyhounds is a Recreation in great esteem with many of the Gentry; it affords greater pleasure than Hunting in some re­spect; as First, In regard it is sooner ended. Se­condly, It requires less toyl. Thirdly, The Game is for the most part always in sight. And lastly, In respect of the delicate shape, and qualities of a Greyhound.

There are three several Courses with Greyhounds, viz. At the Deer, at the Hare, and at the Fox.

For the Deer there are two sorts of Courses; the one the Paddock, and the other either in a Forest or Purlieu. For the Paddock there must be the Greyhounds and the Teazer, which is a kind of a Mungril Greyhound, whose business is to drive a­way the Deer before the Greyhounds are slipt; and most usually there is let slip a Brace, or a Leesh, seldom exceeding two Brace.

The PADDOCK COVRSE, with the de­scription of a Paddock.

A Paddock is a peace of ground encompassed with Pales or a Wall, and most commonly taken out of a Park; It must be a Mile long, and about a quarter of a Mile broad; but the fur­ther end must be somewhat broader than the near; and the reason is, because most people desire to see the end of the Course, and who wins the Wager At the hither end must be the Dog-house: where the Dogs are kept that are to run the Course, which must be attended by two Men, and one of them to stand at the Dore to slip the Dogs, and the o­ther must be a little without the Dore to let slip the Teazer, to drive away the Deer, as aforesaid. On the other side must be made three Pens, for as many Deer as is designed for the Course; and there must be also a Keeper or two to turn out the Deer for the Course. The Deer are to run all along by [Page 97] the Pale, and on the other side at some distance stand the Spectators. There must also be placed along the Course these Posts; The First, which is next the Dog-house and Pens is the Law post, which is distant from them 160 Yards. The Second, is the quarter of a Mile post. The Third the Half-mile Post: The fourth the Pinching-post; And the Fifth is the Ditch which is in lieu of a Post, being a place so made to receive the Deer, and keep them from being further pursued by the 10 Dogs; near to this place are made Seats for the Judges to sit, who are chosen to decide the Wager.

As soon as the Greyhounds that are to run for the Plate, or Money, are led in to the Dog-house, they are delivered to the Keepers, who by the Articles of all Courses are to see them fairly slipt; to which purpose there is put about each Dog a falling Coller which they slip through the Rings: After the owners of the Dogs have drawn Cuts 20 which shall have the Wall, by reason that there shall be no advantage more to the one than the other. Then the Dog-house Dores are shut, and the Keeper ordered to turn out of the Pens the breathed Deer; and so soon as the Deer is turned out, and gone about 20 Yards, then he that holds the Teazer slips him to force forward the Deer: Then when the Deer is come to the Law post the Dog-house Dore must be opened, and the Dogs led out and slipt: If the Deer swarve before he comes to the pinch­ing 30 Post so much that his Head be judge to be nearer the Dog-house than the Ditch, then 'tis judg­ed no Match, and in such case it must be run a­gain three days after. But if there be no such swarve, but that the Deer runs straight until he comes beyond the Pinching Post, then that Dog that is the nearest the Deer when he swarves or is blanched by any accident, wins the Match: But if no such swarve happens, then that Dog that leaps the Dich first, wins the Match; all 40 which is to be determined by the Judges who sit as Spectators, as aforesid; and if other disputes arise about the Course it is referred to the Articles of the Course.

The Course of the Deer in the Forest or Purlieu.

THere are two ways used, the one is Cours­ing 50 from Wood to Wood, and the other up­on the Lawns by the Keepers Lodg.

If you Course from Wood to Wood, first throw in some young Hounds into the Wood to bring out the Deer and if any Deer come out that is not weighty, or a Deer of Antlier, which is Buck, Sore or Sorell, then do not slip your Greyhounds that are held at the end of the Wood where the Deer is expected to come forth, which the Keepers have good judgment to know. And if you mistrust 60 that your Greyhounds will not kill him, then you may Way-lay him with a Brace of Fresh Grey­hounds.

For the Coursing upon the Lawn, when you have given the Keeper notice he will lodge a Deer fit for your Course; then by coming under the Wind you may come near enough to slip your Grey­hounds for a fair Course.

COVRSING the HARE.

FOr Coursing the Hare, the best way is to go and find out one setting, which is easily done, by walking cross the Lands, either Stub­ble, Fallow, or Corn, and casting your Eye up and down, for during the Summer season they frequent such places for fear of Ticks that are common in Woods; also the Rain and the Fall of the Leaf doth offend them; the rest of the year beat up and down with your Poles to start them out of their Forms and Retreats, and some Hares will not stir until they are almost touched, and 'tis a sure sign that such Hares make an excellent Course.

If a Hare set near any Close or Covert, and have her Head towards the same, which a fair Field behind her, you may ride with as much Compayn as you have between her and the Covert before she be put up, and then she is likely to make her Course towards the Champain, for she seldom takes the same way that her Heads is of when she sits in her Form.

When a Hare is first started you give her Ground or Law, commonly is 12 score Yards, or more, according to the ground where she sits; or else you lose much of your Sport by putting too soon, an end unto it, and it is very plea­sing to see the Turns and windings that the Hare will make to save her self, which sometimes prove effectual unto her.

COVRSING the FOX.

IN Coursing the Fox there is required no other Art than to stand close, and on a clear Wind, on the out-side of some Grove where you expect his coming out, and then give him head enough, otherwise he will turn back to the Covert; for the slowest Greyhound will be swift enough to overtake him; and all the hazard of this Course is the Spoi­ling your Dog by the Fox, which oft times hap­pens; and therefore you should not run any that are worth much at this chase, but such that are hard bitten Dogs that will seize any thing.

The Laws observed in Coursing.

I shall conclude this Chapter with the Laws of Coursing as they were established by the Duke of Norfolk, in the Reign of Queen Elizabeth, which were subscribed unto by the chief Gentry, and so held Authentick.

That he that is chosen Fewterer, or that lets loose the Greyhounds, shall receive the Greyhounds match'ed to run together into his Leesh as soon as he comes into the field, and follow next to the Hare-finder, or he that is to start the Hare until he come unto the Form, and no Horsman or Foot­man are to go before, or on any side, but directly be­hind for the space of about 40 Yards.

You ought not to Course a Hare with above a brace of Greyhounds.

The Hare-finder ought to give the Hare three, So-hoes before he put her from her Form, or Seat, to the end the Dogs may Gaze about, and attend her starting.

[Page 98] They ought to have Twelvescore Yards Law before the Dogs are loosed, unless there be danger of losing her.

That Dog that gives the first Turn, and if after that there be neither Cote, Slip, or Wrench, then he wins the Wager that gives the first Turn.

If one Dog give the first Turn, and the other bears the Hare, he that bears the Hare shall win.10

A Go-by or Bearing the Hare, is reputed equi­valent to two Turns.

If neither Dog turn the Hare, he that leadeth last to the Covert wins.

If one Dog Turns the Hare, serves himself, and Turns her again, it is as much as a Cote; for a Cote is esteemed two Turns.

If all the Course be equal, he that bears the Hare shall win; and if she be not born, the Course shall be adjudged dead.20

If a Dog take a Fall in a Course, and yet per­form his part, he may challenge the advantage of a Turn more than he gave.

If a Dog Turn the Hare, serve himself, and give divers Cotes, and yet in the end stand stil in the Field; the other Dog, if he Turns home to the Covert, although he gives no Turn, shall be adjudged to win the Wager.

If by Misfortune a Dog be rid over in his Course, the Course is void; and to say truth, he 30 that did the mischief ought to make reparation for the Damage.

If a Dog give the first and last Turn, and there be no other advantage betwixt them, he that gave the odd Turn shall win.

A Cote is, when the Greyhound goeth End-ways by his Fellow, and gives the Hare a Turn.

A Cote serve for two Turns, and two Trip­pings or Jerkins for a Cote; and if she turneth not quite about she only wrencheth.40

If there be no Cotes given between a Brace of Greyhounds, but that one of them serves the other at Turning; then he that gives the Hare the most Turns wins the Wager: And if one gives as many Turns as the other, then he that beareth the Hare wins the Wager.

Sometimes the Hare doth not Turn, but Wrench; for she is not properly said to Turn, ex­cept she Turn as it were round, and two Wrenches stand for a Turn. 50

He that comes in first to the Death of the Hare, takes her up, and saves her from break­ing, cherisheth the Dogs, and cleanseth their Mouths from the Wool, is adjudged to have the Hare for his pains.

Those which are Judges of the Leesh, must give their Judgment presently, before they depart out of the Field.60

CHAP. XIV.
Of Taking and Hunting the CO­NEY or RABET, with Dogs, Nets and Ferrets, and how to Order a Warren; with Directions for the Breeding and keeping Tame Rabets.

THe CONEY, although it yield not so great pleasure in hunting as the Hare, as being endowed with none of those slights and cunnings; yet it is of greater profit, both in regard of their Flesh, and their Skins, which excel those of the Hare.

The Does go with Young a Month, and then they Kindle; and if she taketh not Buck pre­sently she loseth her Month, or at least a Fort­night, and often kills her Young, eating them, especially the Bucks. They begin to breed at a­bout half a year old, commonly breeding two, three, or four times a Year, and about five, six or seven at a Litter. When the Buck goeth to the Doe, he bears and stamps with his Feet very hard, which (as 'tis said) causeth heat in him; and having struck or buckt her, falls down back­wards, so lying for some time as it were in a Trance, until he hath recovered himself, at which time it is easie to take him. The Bucks will kill the Young Ones, if they can come at them; and therefore Nature hath so decreed it, that the Does prevent them by stopping or covering their Stocks or Nests with Earth or Gravel, which they close up so artificially with their Breeches, that it is hardly to be discerned; and they never Suckle them but early in the Mornings, and late at Nights, closing the Holes every time after their coming out for eight or ten Days; after which time they begin to leave it a little open, and by degrees as they grow big, which is at about three Weeks old, they leave it quite open for them to come out, they being then fit to eat Grass.

In such places in the Warrens where the ground is Rocky and Stony, it were not amiss to have Artificial Burrows made; and if your War­ren were enclosed with a Brick-Wall (whose Foundation should be deep) it would be of great advantage, for then it would obstruct the Rabets from stragling out to be lost; also it would prevent their being stole by Idle Fellows; and likewise it would hinder Foxes, Badgers, Pole-Cats, and the like Vermin from geetting in, being great Enemies to Warrens by destroying them; therefore those Warrens that have not such Conveniences and Secure places, must be the more diligent to hunt and beat them in three or four times a Week, or Daily, to prevent their stragling out for fresh Pasture; as also to destroy those Vermin by Traps, Snares, and Engines, as hereafter shall be treated of, for otherwise your Warrens will never be well stockt.

[Page 99] The best and surest way to store a Warren, is to provide near your Lodge (for though Coneys require neither food nor water, but what they can get, except in exceeding hard Weather, and of a long continuance; and at such times they must be relieved with Hay, the Boughs of Trees and Bark to browz upon, yet you should have a War­rener to attend them, to preserve them from being destroyed by Thieves and Vermin) a hand­som inclosed place, with a Penthouse, under 10 which you may have several Hutches for the keeping Tame Rabets, for they are large and great Breeders: 'Tis true, their Flesh is something more rank of the Old Ones that are kept up, occasioned through want of Exercise, but the Young Ones are esteemed better; but when once you turn them out to become wild, they soon lose that Rankness, and become free Deni­zens of the Soil where you put them. When the Young Ones are big enough to shift for 20 themselves, you may put them into your Warren, with a little respect to the Season of the Year in regard of the Cold; for those Young Ones at a Month old are less able to endure Cold, as being never accustomed to it, than those of a few Days, that have their Dams to cherish them.

The Hutches wherein you keep your Breeders must have divers Cells or Nests, and they must be kept neat and clean, otherwise Diseases will 30 breed amongst them. Likewise the Bucks must be kept apart from the Does until they have just Kindled, and then they must be taken from the Young and put to the Buck; and you may ea­sily know when she is struck enough, for then she will avoid the Buck. Tame Rabets breed seven or eight times in a Year, and eight or nine at a Litter. For the choosing of Tame Rabets, take the biggest and fairest you can get, and if you can, let them be Black, or Silver-haired; for those 40 Skins do exceed the other in price.

Their food, as before noted, may be Coleworts, Cabage-Leaves, Carots, Parsnips, Clivers, Apples, green Corn and Fetches in time of Year, with such like most Food; but you must always observe to give them a proportionable quantity of dry Meat, as Bran, Bread, Hay, Oats, and the like, otherwise they will be Pot-bellyed, and so dye. You may also give them Bran and Grains mixt together, which is very good Food.50

One Buck may very well serve nine or ten Does, and no more.

If your Warren be very barren, you may sow about an Acre or two of Summer Corn for their Food, which will turn to good profit.

The ways to take Coneys.

FOr the taking of Coneys there are divers ways to be used, some of which I shall 60 here take notice of, as being a Beast of no great skill or subtilty. You may hunt such as straggle from their Burrows with small Greyhounds or Mungrels, bred up for that purpose; and the places for hunting them are amongst Bushes, Hedges, Corn-fields, or fresh Pastures; and though you miss killing them, yet thereby you drive them back to their Retreats, and preserve them from being a Prey to others.

You may also drive them into their Burrows, and spread Purs-nets upon the Holes, so that when they come out they will be entangled in them, and so become taken. Now to force them out 'tis good to have a Feret, or two whose Mouths must be couped or musled up, and so put into the Holes, which will cause them to bolt out into your Purs-nets; for the Coneys do easily smell the Ferets, and at their approach (being of a fearful Nature) dare not stay to see them. And for the more surer taking them, it were good to have in readiness a Hay or two, which should be pitched up at a small distance against the Bur­rows you intend to hunt, according to the Figure represented in the Plate for taking Coneys.

Of the FERET.

THe Feret is a little Creature, but of a bold and audacious Spirit, and an Enemy to all others but her own kind, delighting to suck the Rabets Blood, rather than to eat their Flesh; but being tamed are useful to the Warrener for the forcing the Coneys out, as before noted. It is unnecessary to give you a description of it, be­ing sufficiently well known; only let me tell you, that they go with young six Weeks, and usually bring forth six or seven at a time; their Young are blind a Month, and that after two Months more they are fit for Service. The food that is given them is Milk, Sheep-Hearts, Livers, Raw-flesh, and the like; they ought to be kept in Tubs, or other convenient places where they can't get out, and to have fresh Straw, for they are very nasty and of an ill savour. Before you go to Hunt with them, do not feed them; for when their Bellies are full they will be idle, and not hunt, lying sleeping in the Burrows two or three hours together before they come forth, and sometimes much longer. When you have done hunting with them, uncoup them, and Reward them with the Rabets Liver, which they much delight in; and so put them up into your Bag, and carry them home.

I should here speak of the Lircher or Tumbler, a Dog so called by reason of his Wiles and cir­cumventing Tricks to take them; but having treated of him already in the Second Chapter, that treats of the several sorts of Dogs, I shall forbear to speak any thing here.

I should also treat of the taking the Coney with Engines, Traps, Snares, Nets, &c. but being intended to speak thereof in the Chapters that treat of the taking the Fox, Otter, Bad­ger, Hare, &c. as also of the Polecat, Fitchet, and the like Vermin, I shall not say any thing here, but refer you to the same for further satis­faction.

CHAP. XV.
Hunting the OTTER.

THe OTTER is an Amphibious Creature, having his habitation as well in the Water 10 as on the Land, and resembleth the Beaver were it not for his Tail; and although the Otter hath much of his abode in the Water, yet he doth not breath like Fish through the benefit of the Water, but like other Four-footed Beasts, and will remain under the Water for a good while without respira­tion.

The Otter always resides near great Ponds or Rivers, and preyeth on all manner of Fish, of which he is a great destroyer, and if not ob­strcted 20 will in a short time clear a whole Pond, and for want of prey in the Water will make his incursions within Land, and if all fail will feed on Roots, Herbs, or what not to fill his Belly; nor will he take less pains in the Water to satisfie his hunger, being said to swim above a Mile against the stream to get his Prey, which according to observation he smells a good distance; and when he hath filled his Belly, he is carried down the Current at ease to his Couch, Hough, or Lodging, 30 which is always near the Water, or in some hol­low Stump, or Root of a Tree, very Artificially built with Boughs, Sprigs, and Sticks, wherein he sits; and when he lifts up his Nose above Water for Air, it is Termed Venting; nor will he remain long in a place, for fear of a Surprize, or for some better Conveniency, having an excellent Ear for hearing, and as good a Nose for Smelling, being esteemed a very subtile Creature, and ve­ry Nimble in taking his Prey; and for greediness,40 destroys far more than he Eats, seldom eating farther than the Navel, leaving the Tail part, diving deep under the Water, so that no Fish can hardly escape him, unless those that are very large, and swift of Swiming.

The Otter when Reclaimed, is of great use and pleasure, by reason of the great quantities of Fish they take, which as being so taught, they bring to their Master or Keeper.

They go to Sault at such times as Ferets, do,50 and bring forth their young, sometimes more, some­times less. They are Footed like a Goose, with a Web between their Claws, having no Heel, but only a round Ball under the Sole of their Feet, the Impression of which is Termed the Mark or Seal of an Otter; Their Excrements are termed Spraits, their Stones are reported to be good a­gainst the Falling-Sickness; and the Skin of a well grown Otter, is worth twelve or fifteen Shillings, and sometimes more, if it be of a shining Black,60 and of these Skins are made excellent Muffs; Their Flesh is not over wholsom, yet eaten in Germany.

There is much subtilty to be used in the Hun­ting the Otter, yet by cunning and pains, they may be ensnared under Water, and by the River sides.

If you would Hunt, or Train an Otter, you must be provided with Otter-Hounds, and Spears, and be sure to have a Draught Hound or two that will hunt in the Lyame; and set on each side of the River one of them, with about two Cou­ple of Hounds, and a Man or two to attend; and observe his Vents, that you may strike him with your Otter-Spear; or if you miss, then to pur­sue him with your Hounds; and if they are good and well entred for the Sport, they will come Trailing along by the River side, beating every Tree Root, Osier-Bed, or Tuft of Bull-rushes, and sometimes will take the Water like Spaniels; and if any of the Hounds finds him out, then look in the moist places to see which way he bent his Head; for if the Marks make no Dis­covery, you may partly find it by the Spraits, and so follow the Hounds, and Lodge him as you do a Deer. You may uncouple some of the Hounds, and walk beating up and down the sides of the River, under the Bushes, Stubs of Trees, and in the Holes; and you should rather beat up against the Stream than down it, by reason the Otter useth to Fish against the Stream, the better to get Scent of the Fish.

If you find him not quickly, you may judge he is gone to Couch somewhere further off from the River, for every Night he seeks his Prey on the Land, and makes his Spraits so, that if there be an Otter in the Quarter, you may soon find it out, either by the Hounds, or by his Spraits.

The Huntsman having carefully beaten the moist places as aforesaid, and found which way he bent his Head, which may often be discover­ed by its Marks, he may then lodge him any E­vening; But if he do not quickly make him out, he may be sure he is gone to Couch farther off from the River side; and when the Huntsman hath lodged him in his Couch, he must not uncouple the Hounds until he be within about a Bow-shoot or two of the place, for he will presently make a­way upon the first Noise, and draw towards the River, where some fresh Dogs must be laid ready to intercept him.

The Huntsman must also have Otter Spears to dart at him, and wound him in the Water when he Vents, for when they find themselves wounded with the Spear, they presently make to Land, where they furiously encounter the Hounds. Af­ter the Dogs are once well Entred, they will ea­gerly folow the Chase, leaving no place unsearch­ed that is fit for their reception, as Holes, Osier Beds, or the like moist places.

CHAP. XVI.
Hunting the BEAVER.

THe Beaver as before noted, differs not much from the Otter, but only in his Tail; there are great quantities of them in Virginia, New-England, New-York, and those parts, and their Skins are found a good Commodity here in [Page]

HUNTING ye OTTER

To ye Rt. Worshipfull Sr. John Hobart of Blinkling in Norfolk Bart. heyre male to Sr Hen Hobart Kt. & Bar. Cheife Justice of ye. Common Pleas, who descended from ye 2 [...]. son of S. James Robart, of Hales in ye [...]. County Attourny Generall to K. Henry the 7th.

This Plate of Hunting ye Otter is humbly dedicated by Ric Bloome

[Page]

Hunting ye Wild Bore

To his Royall Highness George Prince of Denmarke &ca:

This plate is most humbly Dedicated by Richard Blome▪

[Page 101] England, for making of Beaver Hats. They are an Amphibious Creature, as the Otter living on Land and Water, both Fresh and Salt; and without Water they can't subsist, much partici­pating of the Nature of Fish, which may be con­cluded from their hinder Legs, and Tails. They are much about the bigness of Mungril Curs, their Forefeet are like those of a Dog, and their hinder like that of a Goose, having a Web to assist them in their Swiming; their Head is short, with small 10 round Ears; their Teeth are very long, broad and strong, standing out above their Lips about three Fingers broad; and their Teeth being their only Weapon to defend themselves against other Beasts; and with their Teeth they will soon gnaw down a small Tree; their Tail is very strange, be­ing without Hair, and covered over with a Skin, like the Scales of Fish, and is about half a Foot long, and for the most part six Fingers broad.

They are taken for their Skins and Cods, which 20 are of a high price; And for the taking them, you must find out their Caves, in which are se­veral Chambers, or places of Retreat, built by the Water side, to ascend or descend according as the Water riseth or falleth; and the building of them is almost wonderful to behold, being made of Sticks, and plaistered with Dirt very artifici­ally, in form of a Bee-Hive, but for largness, to a good big Oven.

Their Caves or places of abode being found, a 30 breach must be made therein, into which put a little Dog, which when the Beaver perceiveth, im­mediately gets to the end of her Cave, and there defends her self with her Teeth, untill all the building is destroyed, and she laid open to her Enemies, so that soon she becomes their Prey.

The Dogs used for killing them, are such as for the Otter.

The Beaver can't dive long under Water, but 40 must put up his Head for Breath; and then they shoot him, or strike him with their Spears, which are such as used for the Otter.

In Virginia, New-England, &c. there are great store of them, and one that dwelt in those parts gave this Account of them, That they dwell, or inhabit in low moorish boggy places, through which runs a Rill of Water, and this Rill at some convenient place they stop, by making a Dam cross it, to raise the Water Breast high; and by 50 this Dam which is made Artificially with Earth and Sticks, they make their Caves, and to which belongs commonly two or three hundred Beavers, resembling as it were a Town. If this Dam at a­ny time is broken by any to take them, or other­wise becomes decayed, the Water being their chief refuge, it is immediately repaired by them. And that by Observation they have a chief, or King o­ver them, who takes care thereof, and the rest are observant to him, to work when he assembleth 60 them together, which is done by the flaping his Tail in the Water, making a Noise.

CHAP. XVII.
Hunting the WILD-BOAR.

ALthough England affords no Wild-Boars, yet being so plentiful in Germany and o­ther Countries, and affords so Noble a Chase, which is so much used by the Nobility and Gentry in those parts, tis thought necessary to add this Discourse following.

The Boar being a Beast of such great force, and so slow of Foot, by reason of his heaviness, that he is not properly Termed a Beast of Vene­ry, for he chiefly trusts in his Strength and Tusks to be his Defence, and not to his Feet; so that he is more properly to be hunted by Stout Ma­stiffs, than by Hounds, who can't defend them­selves so well from his fury: Also it spoils them from Hunting other flying Chases, by reason he leaveth so strong a Scent, so that they hunt with the greater ease than at light Chases, which are more painful unto them to find, and to hold the Scent.

The Nature and Subtilties of the Boar.

THe Boar is of this Nature, that when he is Farrowed hath all his Teeth, amongst which he hath four Tusks, on each side two, and with those on the lower Jaw he defends him­self, as being greater and longer than the rest.

The common Age of a Boar is twenty five or thirty years; they go to Rut about December, and their great heat endures about three Weeks; and although the Sows become cold of Constituti­on, not coveting the Company of the Boar, yet they do not separate until January; and then they withdraw themselves unto their holds, wherein they keep close three or four days, not stiring thence, especially if they meet with such places where Fern grows, whose Roots are sweet and pleasing to them.

It is easier to bring a Boar into a Soil in April or May, than in any other Season, by reason they sleep at that time more soundly, which is occasioned by their eating of strong Herbs, and Buds of Trees, which moistens their Brains, and causeth Sleep. Also the Spring time occasions their Sleeping.

Their Food is on Corn, Fruits, Acorns, Chesnuts, Beach-Masts, and all sorts of Roots; when they are in the Marshy and Watery places, they Feed on Water-Cresses, and such like things as they can find; and when they are near the Sea-Coast, they Feed on Cockles, Muskles, Oyster and such like Fish.

A Boar most commonly lies in the strongest holds of Thorns and thick Bushes, and will abide the Bay, before he forsake his Den. If you hunt him from a strong thick Covert, he will be sure to go back the same way he came, if possible; and when he is roused, he never stays until he comes to the place where he thinks himself most secure. If it so happen, that there is a Sounder of them [Page 102] together, then if any break Sounder, the rest will run that way; and if he be hunted in a Hold, or Forest where he was bred, he will hardly be forced to quit it, but sometimes he will take head, and seem to go out, drawing to the out­sides of the Covert, but 'tis only to hearken to the Noise of the Dogs, for he will return a­gain, from whence he will hardly be compelled till Night; but having broken out, and taken head endways, will not be put out of his way 10 for Man or Beast.

A Boar will not cry when he is killed, especi­ally a great Boar, but the Sows and young ones will. In Fleeing before the Dogs, he neither dou­bleth nor crosseth, nor useth such Subtilties as o­ther Beasts of Chase do, as being heavy and slow, so that the Dogs are still in with him.

Terms of Art used in Hunting the Boar.20

A Boar of three years old is called a young Boar, that hath lately left the Sounder, and an old Boar is called a Sanglier, that hath left the Sounder four or five years.

A Boar is said to Feed in the Corn, but if in the Meadows or Fallow Fields then he Routeth or W [...]rmeth; but when he Feeds in a Close and Rou­teth not, then he Graiseth.

How to know a great Boar by his Foot, by 30 his Routings, and by his Soil.

TO know an old or great Boar by the Foot, the form or print thereof ought to be great and large, the Toes round and Thick, the edge of the Hoof worn and blunt, without cuting or paring the Ground so much as the younger doth; and the Gards which are his hinder Claws, or Dew-Claws, should be great and open one from the other; the treading of his Foot should be 40 deep and great, which sheweth the weightiness of his Body, and his Steps should be great and long.

By the Largness and depth of his routing, his greatness may be known; his greatness is also known by the length and largness of the Soil, when he wallovveth in the Myre: Also when he comes out of the Soil, he will rub himself against a Tree, by which his height appears.50

How to hunt the Boar at force with Dogs.

THe Season for hunting the Boar begins about mid-September, and ends in December, at which time they go a Briming.

It is not convenient to hunt a young Boar, of three years old at force; for he will stand up as long (if not longer) than a light young Deer, 60 that beareth but three in the top; but when he is in his fourth year he may be hunted at force, as well as a Hart of ten, and will stand up as long. Therefore if a Huntsman goes too near a Boar of four years old, he ought to mark well whether he went timely to his Den or Couch, or not; for commonly those Boars which tarry till it be day-light go into their Dens, following their paths or ways a long time, especially where they find Fern, or Bed-masts, whereupon they feed; they are very hardy, and the Huntsman needs not be afraid to come near unto such a Boar, for he will not easily be reared; But if he find a Boar which Soileth often times, and which routeth somtimes here and somtimes there not staying long in a place, 'tis a sign that he hath been scared and withdraweth himself to some resting place, and such Boars most commonly come to their Dens or holds two or three hours before day, and then the Huntsman must be careful not to come too near them, for if they once find him in the Wind, or have the Wind of his Dogs, they will soon be gon.

If a Boar designs to tarry in his Couch, he makes some▪ doublings or crossings at the entry thereof, and then lyeth down to rest, and being early in the Wood you may judge of his subtilty, and accor­dingly prepare to hunt him with Dogs that are either hot spirited, or temperate; for if it be a great Boar, and one that hath lain long at rest, he must be hunted with Dogs that will stick to him, and let the Huntsmen on Horsback be amongst them, charging the Boar, and forcing him as much as possible, to discourage him; for if you hunt such a Boar with four or five Couple of Dogs he will not regard them, and when they have a little chafed him he will take courage and keep them at Bay, still runing upon any thing that he seeth before him; but if he perceive himself charg­ed, and hard laid unto with Dogs and Huntsmen, then he abateth his courage, and fleeth to some other place for Refuge. You must also set Relays, which should be of the best old Staunchest Hounds of the Kennel; for if you should make your Relays with young Hounds and such that are swift and rash to seize him before the rest come up, they will be Spoiled or killed by him: But if he be a Boar that is accustomed to flee end-ways before the Dogs, and to take the Champain Countrey, then cast off four or five Cople of Dogs at the first, and set all the rest at Relays, about the entry of the Fields where you think he is likely to flee; for such a Boar will seldom keep the Hounds at a Bay, unless he be forced, and if he do stand at Bay then the Huntsmen must ride in unto him as secretly, and with as little noyse as possible, and being near him, let them cast round about the place where he stands, and run upon him all at once, and it will be hard if they do not give him his deaths Wound with their Spears or Swords, provi­ded they strike not too low, for then he will defend the stroaks with his Snout, and be sure keep not long in a place using a quick motion. And tis ob­served, that if you put Collers of Bells about your Dogs necks, a Boar will not so soon strike at them but flee end-ways before them, and seldom stand at Bay.

If a Boar make head against the Huntsman he must not fly, but meet him with his Spear, hav­ing great regard to the motion of his Head, for his nature is such, to snatch the Spear out of his hands, if he can by any subtilty, by which means he endangers his life; therefore when any such thing should happen, there is no way to save his life, but for another of the company to charge [Page 103] him home with his Spear, upon which he leaves his first Man, and rusheth upon the second, who must be very dexterous in the ordering his Wea­pon for fear of danger.

If you strike at him with your Spear or Sword, strike not low, as aforesaid, to hit him on the Snout, for that he regards not, making it his great care to receive blows upon his Tusks, but strike down right, and in thus assaulting him, they must be very careful, for he will run or rush 10 upon them with great fierceness.

The Hunting-Spears must be very sharp, and broad, branching forth into certain Forks, so that the Boar may not break through them upon the Huntsmen; and the best places to wound him therewith are upon his Shoulders, or on his For­head betwixt his Eyes.

When you first raise him out of the Wood (which is best to be in the Morning early, before he hath made Water) he useth to sunff in the Wind, to 20 smell what is with or against him, and very sel­dome strikes a Man till he be first wounded; and when he finds he is so wounded as not to live, he is so enraged, that he makes what slaughter he can, flying at all he meets with, and his Teeth are at such time so hot that it causeth the Wound to be inflamed.

In the Chase of the Boar you are to observe the same diligence and devices, that is used in Hunt­ting the Hart; for a Boar of three years old will 30 stand as long before the Dogs as a light young Deer, which beareth but three in the top, as be­fore taken notice of.

CHAP. XVIII.
Of the POLECAT, FITCH­ET 40 and MARTERN.

POlecats, Fitchets, and Marterns, are a sort of Vermin very destructive to Warrens, and Hen-houses; they have a strong Scent; they are not Chases to be sought or pursued after, yet when by accident they are discovered, they afford very good diversion, and a Hound Crossing on them 50 will hunt them as merrily as any other Chase, and make a full Cry for the time they stand before them, which is not long; for they quickly betake themselves to some Tree, and trust to that po­licy sooner than to their strength; and yet it is m [...]ch to see the strength of nature of these Crea­tures, and how stoutly they will make their par­ty good against the Hounds, scratching, clawing, and biting so, that most of them come off with Bloody Noses; at last they betake themselves to 60 the Trees, leaping from Bough to Bough; and Tree to Tree; in the mean time the Dogs baying at them on the ground, and the Huntsmen pelting them with Stones, Sticks, and the like; also a Cross-Bow or Bow with Bolts doth good execution, and soon puts an end to the Hunt.

The Hunt being ended, the Dogs expect their Reward, but it must not be the Flesh of the Ver­min, that being not good, neither will they med­dle with it; therefore you should hang them up on the end of the Hunting Pole, calling the Dogs together, that they may see it for their encourag­ment, but Reward them with pieces of Bread, or the like.

A MARTERN is about the bigness of a Cat, having a longer Body, and shorter Legs, with a Head and Tail like a Fox. This is the Pole­cat or Wild-Cat, a sort of Vermin well known in England for their destructiveness to Hens and Tame Fowl.

Their Skin is a good Fur, nor is that of the Polecat without its virtues, being reputed very useful and comfortable for cold Aches in the Bones and Joynts, and the Grease is good for extending Shrunck Sinews.

CHAP XIX.
Hunting the SQVIRIL.

HVnting the Squiril affords excellent pastime, and not without some profit; for both the Flesh and Skin is useful, the former being good Meat, and the latter an excellent Fur; 'tis a very thrifty provident Creature, providing in the Sum­mer-season Nuts and such like food in their Nests, to keep them in the Winter, for they do not much care to stir abroad in cold Weather, especially when the North and East Winds blow. They build their Nests, (which by some are called Drays) in the Summer on the top of the Trees very arti­ficially with Sticks and Moss of an oval Form, like an Egg, with a hole in the midst, that the Rain may not anoy them.

The way of Hunting them is with Dogs, which are to bay at them on the ground, which with the Huntsmen hollowing doth much affright them; and if one or two of the Company had small Drums to beat, it would the more amaze them, and facilitate the Sport.

Then the Men pelt them with Stones, or Cubit­sticks, as at the Polecat, coursing them from Tree to Tree. The Cross-Bow, or the Bow and Bolt, as likewise the Gun makes a quick dispatch of them.

The best Season to Hunt them is in Autumn, when the Leaves are off the Trees; and indeed 'tis very pretty Sport to see them skip and jump from Tree to Tree with such nimbleness to save themselves, but all to little purpose, for in the end either the Men or Dogs seize them.

If they be driven to the ground from the Trees, and creep into the Hedges, 'tis a sign of their weariness; for during their strength they have such lofty Minds, that they will keep the Trees with all the dexterity and subtilty they can.

CHAP. XX.
To know by the Impression of the Foot, or by the Dung, any Fo­rest Beast.10

HAd I only regarded Hunting in the com­mon acceptation, only managed with Men and Dogs. I might have put an end to this Discourse: But forasmuch as there are other ways to attain the end, and those peradventure more useful and commendable, I shall here treat of such as are most approved of for the taking them.

But first, the skilful Wood-man ought to know 20 the several Impressions of the Feet of every Beast of the Forest, which they leave imprinted in soft and moist places: And you must know that the Females make smaller Impressions than the Males: Nor should the Wood-man be ignorant of the several Excrements of Forest Beasts, and how to make use of every one for the taking their Fellows; for the Dung of all ravenous Creatures is of great use to draw them on into those Snares and Devices wherewith you intend 30 to entrap them; for should you use any Cord, Wood, or Iron, which is not anointed over there­with, these Creatuees have that subtilty and good Scent, that they would avoid it; you should therefore in making of Trains use Cords made of Hay and Straw, and not use Ropes; and when you set any Engines, if you can't get any of their Dung, be sure get some Carrion, and with that rub them over.

Now for the having some of their Dung upon 40 occasion, as also to know what Beasts are stirring in any place by their Tracts, observe these fol­lowing Directions.

In some fair Evening, on the sides of the Thickets or Forests, and by the High-ways, where in all probability those Beasts use to pass, dig up the Earth with a Hoe or Mattock, bruising it small or fine about four foot square in a place, and so do in all likely Passes, to the end that whatsoever Beast comes over them it may leave his Impres­sion. 50

For Beasts of Prey, as the Wolf, Fox, Badger, Polecat, &c. make a Train, and when you come to any of the places which you have so prepared, throw four or five bits of your Train-Carrion up­on it, and of Chickens Guts for smaller Beasts, and you need not doubt but such Beasts as eat of the Train, will leave some of his Dung behind him, as well as the Impression of his Foot, and accordingly you may prepare for him against the next day; 60 but use great circumspection, for wild Beasts are for the most part very subtile, of quick Scents, timerous, and jealous of every thing; only be­ing pressed with Hunger, or attracted by the pro­vocations of Lust, they are not so scrupu­lous.

Now forasmuch as the destroying Wolves, and such like ravenous Creatures (which make War sometimes with Man himself) hath ever been e­steemed a commendable Exercise, and hath at all times been encouraged, I shall bestow a Chapter or two in the discourse thereof; notwithstanding at present England is not anoyed with any of those strong and great Devourers, which hereto­fore inhabited our Woods and Forests; but how­ever Ireland is yet infected therewith in several parts, so that it will not be lost labour to treat therof, but a benefit to that Kingdom, as also to many of our American Plantations, where they frequent.

CHAP. XXI.
Concerning the Taking Wolves, Foxes, Badgers, Otters, &c. by Traps, Engines, &c.

WOLVES are a kind of wild Dogs, strong and fierce; their Young are whelpt blind, and continue so for some time. When they have their Young they are very bold, and venture much for Prey for them; and when they are Proud they are the most fierce, insomuch that they will most furiously fight with one another, and at such times they are easily pursued and found out in their Retreats, and so may be shot.

There are some Hounds, and especially the large Irish Greyhounds, which will run at them; but they should always be laid on a clear Wind in divers places to assist each other, and the Men ought to be ready with half Pikes to assist them, and to kill the Wolf when he is stayed; for a Wolfs Biting is mortal to the Dogs.

If you run at the Wolf with Dogs, it must be by Day; for in the Night their Eyes are so flaming and dreadful, that no Dog will venture on them.

A Bloodhound will draw after them very cou­ragiously, but not all Hounds; and there ought to be particular care in the Entring your Dogs, at the first Season in August and September, whilst they are young, to the end they may be brought on by degrees to encounter with Old ones.

There ought to be no Law given to such Beasts of Rapine, so that you may use Guns, Bows, or the like, to destroy them, taking all ad­vantages of Age, Sex, or Conditions.

I forbear to give you any further Observations of the nature and quality of the Wolf, referring you to Aristotle, Pliny, Gesner, and others, that have written very strange and fabulous things of them; but proceed to shew you some ways (besides hunting them at force,) how to take them by Gins, Nets, Traps, and the like.

I shall present you with a kind of Pit-fall, which will require little or no explanation, it is [Page 105] so easie to be understood; this following Figure will describe it unto you.

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10

Be sure your Pit be large and deep enough,20 and that your Hurdle be covered with Turfs or Earth; the Hinges on which it hangs, to be of a just ballance, that the Hurdle may turn and return upon the least Motion; the Artificial Hedge, which you see made up of Hurdles, such as are used for Sheep-Pens, may be broad at the 30 entrance, and so growing narrower at the end, that the Wolf, Fox, or Badger may not pass by the sides; and on the other end of the Trap place a Goose, a young Pig, or the like: Make a Train of some Carrion to direct and draw the Beasts to the said Trap; and it may sometimes so fall out, that you may take two or three in a Night in the same Pit. Be sure therefore, that the Trap do exactly cover the Hole, to the end they may not discover one another.40

Having once taken a live Wolf, you may dis­able him from hurting the Dogs by breaking his lower Jaws, and then enter them at him, suffer­ing them to kill him, and so Reward them.

The best way to Bait the Trap, is to lay a live Lamb tyed by the four Feet just on the middle of the Trap-Door, and next to that a Goose nailed, with a Lath over her Feet; for these two Creatures being alone, do always call out for their Companions, and consequently do 50 draw on their Enemies so much the more eager­ly; and a Wolf or Fox coming to jump on them is the more surely taken, than if you should place your Bait at one end of the Trap upon the ground.

Now if you know where a Wolf, Badger, or the like, useth to pass, you may boldly use this Device with good success: But a Fox will be too cuning, for it is in his nature to return whenever he meets with any new contrivances in his Roads, 60 and will not adventure for some time, taking his circumference by other ways.

The two former ways for Baiting your Trap are very good, but I shall shew you one more that excels them; viz. Make your Trains, and always draw your Train over the Trap, and then hang the said Train-Carrion on some Bough, which butteth just over the Trap, so that nothing may come to reach it but by first standing on the Trap, and so you will be sure of them.

These kind of Traps ought not to stand co­vered by Day, for fear of Cattle falling into them.

I shall next describe unto you an Iron Engine for the taking them, very easie to be made. This Figure sheweth its form.

[figure]

The use and explanation of this Engine is as followeth; and for the better comprehension thereof, the several pieces are set down apart that go to the composure of the whole, with the several Numbers over them.

First, Get two pieces of Iron as No. 1. each two Inches and an half long, one broad, and a quarter of an Inch thick; these two pieces must have Supporters at each end, as you see B. and pierced through to receive an Iron-Peg. You must place athwart over one another, as No. 2. riveted in the middle with a piece of Iron, as E, an Inch long, with a Ring in the end of it as R in No. 3.

In the next place, you must have two other pieces of Iron, as No. 4. six Inches long, one Inch broad, and the sixth part of an Inch thick, which must be a little hollowed under, and at each end LO there must be an opening like a M [...]rtice an Inch long, and about a third part of an Inch broad. These two Pieces fasten in the middle thwart each [Page 106] other, as No. 5. with an Iron-Pin, as MI in No. 6. four or five Inches long, and made like a Snakes Tongue, so that that being thrust into any piece of Flesh, the Flesh may not easily be gotten off; the end of the said Peg or Pin I must be thrust into the Hole K, to hold the said two pieces fixed like a Cross, as No. 7.

The next thing to be done, is to prepare four pieces of Iron, as No. 8. each eighteen Inches long, and about a quarter of an Inch square, un­less 10 it be towards the middle C, where they must be somewhat thicker, that is, almost half an Inch thick, and not square, but only where the Teeth are. The end marked A, should be rounded with a single Supporter, pierced through in the middle; and the other end H should be like a Fork, with a crooked Back about two Inches, as described.

All these Pieces being thus prepared▪ begin to compose the whole Engine by No. 1. placing them 20 cross-ways, and the end of the Peg E into the Hole I, that they may not stir. Then take a piece of Iron MI, No. 6. force the end I into the Hole K, of each piece PNOL, fixing it very fast that nothing may give way. The No. 7. sheweth them altogether. Then take No. 8. and put the end A into the Mortice or opening N, and then into one of the Supporters B of No. 3. and there fasten it with an Iron Peg that it may play in and out, and turn like a Case­ment 30 on its Hinges. Also do the same with the three other of the same pieces, placing the crooked Forks upwards, as in the three Figures which represents the whole ready Set.

Your Engine being thus prepared, carry it where you find any Carrion laid, and about fifty or sixty Paces from the said Carrion set your Engine, and fasten it with a Stake, or Iron-Peg, to the ground, and if it might be, place it in the midst of some High-way, or Foot-path; or 40 for want of such a conveniency in some smooth even place, beat up the Earth the whole circum­ference of the Engine, so that the middle may be half a Foot deep, like a square Bed; just in the middle drive in your Stake or Iron-Peg, which must have a head or round knob, that you may fasten thereto the Cord B, which holds the whole Engine.

Then cut a pretty big piece of Carrion, and fasten it to some Stick or Rope of Hay, and 50 drag it up and down to and fro your Engine or Trap at a good distance, and then clap it upon your piece of Iron M, having first rubbed over therewith the whole Engine, Rope, Stake, and all that the Beasts may not smell your design. (But it is held better, that you make your Train to and from your Carrion, and not your En­gine; and that you placed your Train Carrion with the rest of the Carrion, and baited your Engine with a fresh piece) you must 60 then pitch up a Stick just over your Carrion, with a piece of white Paper on the top of it, to the end you may frighten the Beasts from ap­proaching it; for they will not presume to come very near it, but will surround it at a distance on every side, and at length fall in with your Engine, and coming with fury to seize on the Bait, the four Crooks or Forks H will seize on him, and the more he strives, the faster he will be.

If you place three or four about a piece of Carrion, you can't well miss of your design; and that the Carrion may be preserved the longer, take care that no Dogs, Crows, or the like, come to it.

The Badger is not very clear sighted, nor good scented, so that there is no great skill required in taking him, a small blow on the Head betwixt the Eyes knocks him down.

The Otter is said constantly to use his wonted Road, and can hardly be put by it, should you make a Hedge thwart their Walks. But on the contrary, the Fox, if he find any new thing, or any alteration in his accustomary Road, he pre­sently retires upon his steps, being jealous of a Surprizal.

I shall present you with a Device for the taking a Badger, but not a Fox, as being too fearful and shy.

[figure]

Provide a Stick, as the letter A, about the bigness of a Threshing-Flail, with a Hole about four Inches distant from the great end A, and your Stick must be sharpned at the small end. Then prepare another Stick B, which must be some­what bigger, but of the same length with the o­ther; This Stick must have a Mortice in it about four Inches from the great end B, which may play in and out, and receive a Pulley of Wood; and the small end must be pointed. Likewise get a a third Stick five foot long, and as big as a Mans Arm, pointed at one end, and forked at the other, or at least Notched or Forked through to receive a Peg or a Cord. Then have a strong treble twisted Cord, about twenty Foot long, as marked IHG, at the end G you are to make a loop, through which pass the other end I, and about two Foot off at H make a stay, either by tying a knot, or which is better by whipping a packthread four or five times about, and fast­ning it there. Your [...]ord must have a Buckle, or Ring of Iron, or strong Leather, as D, and [Page 107] that Ring or Buckle must have a second Cord, a­bout two Foot long, wherewith it may be fastned at the Hole or fork of the Stick G.

These are the chief things you are to prepare, for 'tis supposed you may easily find a large Stone of about thirty pound Weight, which you are to use.

When you find that any Badger hath passed, either by his Footing, or leaving some of his Hair on the Boughs (which Hairs are whitish 10 at both ends, and blackish in the midst) you may there set up this Engine, which seldom fails of ta­king him in three or four days time. But ob­serve that you set up the Engine just in the Mesh of the Badger (that is the Hole, or through fair in the Hedge, by which he passes) and about the middle of the Hedge drive in your Stick A un­til the Hole be only eight or nine Inches above the Earth; and just over against him at about a Foot distance in your Stick B, so that the under 20 part of the Pully be level with the Hole of your Stick A; set your third Stick about three Foot from your second in the Hedge, and fix it strong; at the upper end fasten your Leather Buckle, or Iron Ring D, then thrust the end of the Cord I, through the top of the Cord C, next through the Hole in your Stick A, and then through the Mortice under the Pully of the Stick B; and lastly through the Leather, or Iron Ring D; strain the end of your Cord I, until the stay H be just at 30 the hole of your Stick A, in which hole gently put a small Peg about an Inch long, which may only keep the said stay H from sliping through the hole, then take your Stone or Weight of Lead, and lift it up to the Buckle D, and fasten it to your Cord, letting it hang there. Then open your Coller F just in the Mesh, that the Badger may not possibly get through at that place, unless he put his Head through the Noose. In case the Mesh be large, and that the Noose will not stand 40 up extended, you may tye it at both sides with a few Spires of Grass; and if the Mesh be high, support your Noose with a little Fork as K. You may try when all is right, for the least twitch of your Noose will thence force out the Peg L, and make way for the stay H, then falls the Stone E, and strangles the Badger.

In case you perceive that a Badger useth to cross any High-way, or to frequent any Foot-Path, make an Artificial Hedge cross his walk,50 and leave a passage for him, in which you may plant your Engine; for he will endeavour to get through, rather than return or walk about.

Your Ironmongers sell certain Engines, which they know not the use of; there is much Art and Caution to be observed in planting them as they should be; for one well planted is better than ten set at adventure and indiscreetly. I shall not trouble you with the manner of composing them, because they are every where to be bought, no [...] how to open them, that being known to 60 most; but I shall give you some Instructions how to set them to Art. When you have found out the tracking of any Fox or Badger, place your Gin in this manner; Dig up a square plot of Ground, and bruise the Earth to fine Dust, that it may lye smooth and plain; the midst of it must be deeper and hollower, to the end the Bridge may have Room to play when the Beast treads on it.

Place your Gin cross the way, by which the Vermin useth to pass; and cover over the whole plot with Grass, or Leaves gently strewed, that the Beast may not suspect any thing; if you did the like in two or three places, by which he useth to pass, he would go over the more boldly. It is not amiss to make a Train of some Carion, to draw him on the more boldly. You may tye the end of the Chain to some Stake, removed a­bout four or five Foot from the Gin; and when you are making it, let the Soles of your Shoes be rub'd over with some Carion, that the Beast may not perceive you have been there. This fol­lowing Figure shews the Form thereof.

[figure]

There is great Art to be used in drawing on all Beasts of the Forest, as being by nature jealous and fearful, so that your Art must be to work your Devices with Subtilty. Therefore where­ever you find a Beast hath past, lay some Baits for him three or four days one after another; and if you find them still eaten, you may as­sure your self of taking him; but plant not your Engine all at once, but first make your place ready, then let him eat out of it once or twice, then let your Engine lye there a day or two, and if he still continues eating the Baits, then fit it up for the taking him.

[figure]

This Invention sheweth how to shoot a Fox, Woolf, Badger, or other Beast, if once you know the place by which they pass, or the Earths where they Retreat by day, which are generally in strong Thickets, and amongst Rocks that can't be dug; nor are these Beasts to be gotten out by force, therefore this Invention will be good to take them. Suppose the Letters AB were the Hole, by which they enter, drive in a Stake half a Foot long, just in the Mouth of the en­trance, [Page 108] and another at df, as big as ones Thumb, and about a Foot long on the other side, within two Inches of the Hole; this Stick at the end F must have a little Notch, as F, which must be four Inches out of the Ground, than have a Stick hec, which must be four Fingers longer than the space between the two first Sticks bA; at one end a must be a little Crook, and at the other end e a small Notch; 'tis described in the Figure No. 17. marked EF. So is the great Stake by 10 the Letters OP, with the Notch at the part P.

Then look out for a convenient place, to stand about ten or twelve paces from the hole, to make a Shoot directly into it, without the interruption of any Boughs, Bushes or the like, as for Exam­ple at GQ, and there fasten a lusty Stake, about four or five Foot long into the Earth, with a Head like a Rest, and about three or four Foot near the Hole, drive in just such another Stake, but 20 somwhat shorter. Then place your Gun LRM, upon your two Rests or Stakes, and level it di­rectly with the Hole, then bind it very fast to the Stakes, so that it may directly hit the mid­dle of the Entrance. Your Gun being thus fixed according to Art, get a small but strong Cord, which draw on the forked places of the Stakes just under the Gun; at the end P tye a Stone of seven or eight pound weight, and at the other end f a small Stick, half as big as ones little 30 Finger, and about two Inches long; strain your Cord until the Stone be just at the Tricker of your Gun, and that the small Stick may be put with one end into the Notch e of the Stick aec, in such manner that the said Stick may be about an Inch clear off the Ground, the Stone holding all right; Then place a small thin Board, about eight or nine Inches long, and half so broad o­ver your little Stick, and cover it with dry Leaves, light Dust or Grass, then cock your Gun, and 40 fasten to the Tricker one end of a little Pack­thread, the other end whereof must be drawn through the Rest P, and then tyed to the Stone, and your work is done.

For there is not any Creature which passeth in or out, but must tread on the Board, which causeth the small Stick to give way, and then down falls the Stone, and off goes the Gun, which being well charged with Pistol Bullets, cannot miss Execution, unless it happens to Rain, and the 50 Wet damps the Powder that it doth not Fire, and that may be remedied by making a Case of Wood to be over the Lock. By this means you may kill Wolf, Fox, or other Creature, if you can find out their Retreats or Harbours, or but their usual Paths or Roads. You may also make Trains and lay a Bait just at the level of your Gun, at about twelve or fourteen Paces from it, all which I refer to your ingenuity, that I may not wear out the Thread of this Discourse, and leave no­thing 60 to exercise your invention.

CHAP. XXII.
Directions for taking Polecats, Fich­ets, Martins, or Marterns, and the like Vermin that are in­jurious to Warrens, Dovehouses, or Henroosts.

THese Creatures are found very offensive to such places as they frequent, as Warrens, Dovehouses, and Henroosts, not only destroying the Young, but oft times devouring the Egs.

They are great Encreasers, and if care be not taken to destroy them, they will do great and many mischiefs. Here followeth a devise to take them by Night, for they are not often seen by day, but do either lye close in their Holes, or in some concealed places as amongst Stones, un­der Logs, and sometimes on thick Boughs of Trees.

'Tis good that a Warrener do sometimes look about in such like places with a Gun to shoot them, and not altogether to trust to his Box, or Chest-Traps, which are here represented unto you in these Figures. The first being with a single, and the latter with a double Entrance.

[figure]

I shall shew you how to make and use these Traps. Take three pieces of Oak, or Elm Boards of an equal bigness, like that which is in the first Figure, and marked with ABCD; let them be four foot long, and one over, and about an Inch thick; nail them together just like a Coffin, and close up one end with a piece of the same Boards, which must be nailed fast on, as ACEF. Likewise nail over three main Boards, another piece, as AFGH, which must be as large as a­ny of the rest, but not so long by two parts in three; and for the rest of the covering you must have another piece of the same sort of Boards. On the other side of the Boards make a Hole with a Gimler at the places marked GH, where fasten two Nails, which may be driven into the Board [Page 109] that lies on the top, so as to serve for Sockets, or for your better comprehension as the Axletree of a Coach, so that the Board may be easily lifted up, and let down; and at the other and [...]K, nail another piece of Timber just equal to that marked with AFGH, which must only be fast­ned to the upper Board in such manner, that be­ing let down, the whole may seem to be some Chest close shut.

Then get two pieces of Wood as LMPQ, two 10 Foot long, an Inch and an half thick, and pier­ced at the ends LM, with a Hole big enough to turn ones little Finger therein; then nail them on your two side Boards about the middle of them, just opposite to each other, with a piece of Wood an Inch Square, shaped at both ends like an Axletree, which put easily into the two Holes LM; At the middle O of this said Axle­tree frame a Mortice, or hole to fasten and tye a Stick ON, which may fall down upon the move­ing 20 Plank, when it is let down; and this is inten­ded to prevent any Beast from lifting up the Co­ver, when once it is down.

Before you nail all the Boards together, make a hole in that plank marked ABCD, at the place marked vx, which hole should be two Inches long, and half an Inch over, just opposite there­unto; and in the other Plank bore a little hole with a Gimler as at R, that you may put in a small Cord there, at the end of which tye your 30 Tricker RST, made of a Stick as big as ones little Finger, which though fastned at the end R, may however have liberty enough to move up and down, and must pass through the Hole V, a­bout two Inches out, with a Notch or two as T: about the end of it tye your Bait on this Trick­er within the Chest-Trap, which ought to be appro­priated to the Nature of the Beast or Vermin you intend to take. For a Polecat or Fitchet use a Chicken, for a Weesil or Martin, Egs, and for a House-Cat some small Birds, or a Pigeon. 40

For the setting this Trap, you must have a strong Cord fastned upon the moving Plank, near the middle of it marked Y towards the end; at the other end of the said Cord tye a small Stick marked V, an Inch and an half long, and half as big as ones Finger; formed at one end like a Wedge, so that the Trap being lifted up about half a Foot, as you see it represented in the Fi­gure; and the Cord being passed over the Axle­tree ZO, the little Stick may have one end in the 50 Notch T of your Tricker, and the other end in the Hole X, and then is your Trap or Engine right as it should be.

If your Tricker be but a quarter of an Inch clear from the bottom Plank, when any Vermin is once in, and gives but one touch to the Bait, which is on the Tricker, that gives away, and down falls your moving Plank, with the Dore fast shut.

The other Trap with the double Entrance, is 60 much the best, by reason that the Vrmin you in­tend to take, may see through it to behold the Prey, and come in at which side they please, and therefore will sooner venture in.

It is formed much after the same manner with the former, only it hath two turning Planks, and falling Doors, and the Tricker ought to be in the middle at Z. I need not give you further Directions therein, seeing you can't miss the hit­ting this latter, if you have truly comprehended the former, it requiring nothing more than dou­bling the Instructions for the Trap-Doors, the Sockets, Cords and the like. Besides every War­rener can either make them, or shew you them ready made, if in case you can't make one by these Directions.

CHAP. XXIII.
Directions for killing Field-Mice, and Rats.

I shall in this short Paragraph give you a use­ful Invention for the killing Field-Mice and Rats, being great devourers of Wall-Fruit; and 'tis generally believed that Birds do the mischief, when in truth 'tis the Rats by Night. They differ from House-Rats, being grayer and longer Haired, their Tails are not so long, and have two thick knobs on them, full of bushy Hairs; they are said to sleep about six Months of the year, viz. from September to April, and are often found in the Roots of old Trees, and the like places. Therefore these following Figures will shew a device to take them.

[figure]

[Page 112] I shall give some Rules and Directions for the making setting and baiting the aforesaid Trops to the most advantage; observe the middle Figure, and by that you may regulate your self. Get a piece of Pipe-s [...]a [...] two Foot and an half long, and six Inches broad, then take a piece out of it from the pointed line g h, about Ten Inches from the end C▪ D; then opening a pair of Compasses an Inch and an half, set one foot of the Compasses at the edge g, and carry the other foot over the line g h, 10 to the point q. and from thence placing one foot of the Compasses at D, make one point or mark at the letter c▪ to draw a line from thence to q: Do the very same on the other part of the Board [...] E H, then with a fine Saw cut out your Board by the lines e q, and d i, and so take off the piece G, H.

When you have proceeded thus far, make a little kind of Gutter or Channel along the thickness of your Board with some small Knife, just where 20 your piece was taken out, and nail a piece of strong Wood E F, about half an Inch broad over the two branches C D, to strengthen them, as likewise to hold the Cord, which is to bend and set the Gin, as shall be shewd in its proper place. Next cut a piece of Pipe-stast as H C I, a little bigger than your excision, and form it so that it may slip in and out by the Gutters or Channels which you have made in the thickness of the main piece from whence you cut the piece first mention­ed.30

This piece had need be three or four Inches longer than that which you cut out, and in the room thereof this latter must be placed, and the other end I, may be stoped to a point; and at the end of it bore a smal Hole n thwart the Board, wherein put a strong well twisted Cord; you must likewise have a piece of Holly about three foot and an half long, as M K N, and as thick as ones Finger, (if it were of strong round 40 Whalehone it would do well) which bend like a Bow, and at the end M, tie a strong Pack-thread which must pass through the Hole N, of the end I, of the moving piece H G I, and from thence tie it to the other end N of your Red or Holm; then get three little pieces of Wood as K f b, somewhat less than ones little Finger, and place them in the Holes made six Inches from the ex­cision; then place the middle of your Bow upon your main piece of Pipe-Staff at the letter K, so 50 that one of the three Crooks may be just at K, and the other two at b, f, and between them three your Bow must he held right and firm; then [...] a strong Cord at the Staff E▪ F, at the Letter [...], and at the other end a little Stick c o, two [...]nches long, and half so big as ones little Finger; the said Cord from the letter G to this last men­tioned Stick must not exceed six Inches in length. You must have another little Stick f c, eight Inches long, but no bigger than the former, which 60 [...] with a Cord at the middle of your Bow K, in such manner that it may turn to which side you please▪ and the other end of the said Stick must have a No [...]h made in it as c, and near to it tie your Bait. The Stick f c, and the Pack-thread [...] must be of a convenient length, so as the piece of Wood. H G I, being drawn and stayd by the little Stick o c, whereof the end o must be placed against the end H, and the other end e into the Notch of the Stick f c, and so it makes up a kind of Window, or entrance about the bigness of two Inches and an half, or three Inches, as is represented by the Letters a, o, c, in the second Figure. The Bow M, K, N, must be so bent, that when it is drawn as you see in the first Figure, the ends M, N, may be in a direct line with your strengthning piece E, F. The first of the Figures is to shew the form of the main piece, as likewise the runing one. The end A of the main piece must be sharpned to the intent you may either set it against the Wall, or on the ground, when you bend it; and about eight Inches from the end A, at the letter L you may cut in a pretty deep Notch whereon to rest your Foot, that you may hold it the steddier when you go about to bend your Engine.

I shall now shew you how to B [...]it it, and where to set it up. You must Bait before you bend: A little piece of Lard, a Candles end, or the like will do the work, which fasten to the Stick f, e, about an Inch from the Notch c, just at the place marked with the letter a. Then set the end A to the ground, rest your Foot on the Notch L, take with one hand the end I of the moving piece, and strain it until the end A be three Inches or thereabouts distant from B; then take in the other hand the little Stick o c, and place the end thereof o just against the end H of the moving piece, and then place the end c of the little Stick o c, in the Notch thereof c, and so the Bow is bent as it should be. Now for the setting or placing it, observe where the Fruit is most ea­ten, and there place the Trap or Gin in this man­ner. Thrust the end A into any Hole of the Wall, it matters not how little way it enters, provided it stand firm, the Bow being undermost, that so the Vermin may go along upon it by the pointed Line A K B, to seize on the Bait a by the opening a, o, c; and being on the Board B, he will stretch out his Head and Legs to reach it, and of necessity will force the little Stick o c, from the Notch c of the Tricker; then down goes the Bow and forces on the moving piece, so that the Rat is taken by the midst of his body. Be careful of setting this Gin that there be no Bough adjoyning; for then by the help thereof the Rat may get off the Bait, and not come upon the Gin, This Device is also good for House-Rats.

CHAP. XXIV.
How to take Hares and Rabets by Nets, &c.

I shall next proceed to shew you several ways how to take Hares and Coneys, and so con­clude this Discourse of Hunting; first giving you some Figures, and then give you Directions for the ordering them for use.

[Page 111]

[figure]

10 These Nets are proper either for Hares or 20 Rabets, but they must be placed as hereafter fol­loweth. Observe the Path or Tract in any Copice or Furrow by which any Hare useth to pass, like­wise how the Wind is, that you may so set the Net that the Hare and Wind may come toge­ther. If the Wind be side-ways it may do well enough▪ but never if the Wind blow over the 30 Net into the Hares face, for he will scent both it and you at a great distance. The two pointed Lines A. B. C. D denote the Foot-path by which the Game useth to pass; then prepare three or more Stakes, according to the length of your Net; the Stakes should be about the bigness of ones Thumb, and about four foot long, sharpned at the greater end, and a little crooked at the smaller R. S. T. Stick them in the ground some­what slooping, as if so forced by the Wind; two 40 of them must be set at the two sides of the way and the rest in the midst as you see occasion. They must only hold up the Net from falling, but in a very slight manner, that if the Game run a­gainst it, it may fall down, and so entangle him. Be sure to hide your self in some Ditch or Bush, behind some Tree, or in such like place behind the Net, for if you should be perceived your expectation would be frustrated; nor indeed should you walk in the Path-way by which you expect 50 the Game to come, for they will have some imper­fect scent of you. When you perceive the Game to be past you, give a Shout, flinging your Hat at them, which will put them into such a surprize, that they will spring on, and run just into the Net, so that you must be nimble to take them, lest they break out and make their escape. This Net is not so good in windy Weather as in Calm.

The middlemost of the three Figuers I shall 60 next explain. It must beset much after the same manner as the former, as to the Way and Wind. You see how the two Cords at each end of the Net ought to be disposed; next you must have two Sticks K, L, M, N, each four foot long, and thrice as big as ones Thumb, they must be cut exactly smooth at each end, and placed in this manner; Take the Stick K, L, and put it on the edge of the Way upon the Cord L, which is at the bottom of the Net; The other Cord must be placed on the top of the Stick; then go along behind the Net, supporting it with your hand, and place your second Stick just as you did the first; you should endeavour to let your Net lean a little towards the way by which you expect your Game will come, for the Game running fierce­ly against the Net, will force the Sticks to give way, and so the Net falls on him.

There is another Net represented by the last Figure, which is less troublesom than either of the former, only it may be further discerned; however it is excellent for Rabets in such Foot­paths, where sometimes you have three or four Couple runing after one another, all which may be taken at once, for it doth not fall as the two former.

The two former are useful for taking Wolves, Foxes, Badgers, and Polecats, as well as Hares and Coneys; but the latter only for Hares and Coneys. The true time to set these Nets is at Day-break, until half an hour before Sun-rise; and from about half an hour before Sun-set, un­til Dark-night.

I shall forbear to instruct you further in the setting this last Net, the representing it, together with the preceding Rules being sufficient, only this is of another make, and indeed a Net inclosed within two others.

There are three or four other ways to take both Hares and Coneys with Nets at any time of the day, especially if you know any Furz-Bushes or strong Thickets, where they use to resort. I shall not need to trouble you with the Forms of the Nets, only the Names shall suffice. You must observe which way in probability the Hare will take, and at twelve or fourteen Paces distance, pitch your Net in a Semicircle; then fetch a compass about and beat the Bush, and you can't well miss; for Rabets will make to their Burrows, and Hares to the Coverts.

The Nets that are of use for this purpose are called Hays, and are common to be bought at any Shop that sells Nets; you may have them longer or shorter as you think fit, about fifteen or twenty Fathom is a good length, and for depth a Fathom.

Rabets do often straggle abroad about Mid­day for fresh Grass; when you perceive any store to be gone forth to some remote Brakes or Thick­ets, get one with you, and pitch two or three of these Hays about their Burrows, and lie close there. In case you have not Nets enough to en­close all their Burrows, you may stop some with Stones, Bushes, or the like; then go with your Coney-Dog to hunt up and down at a good di­stance, beating the Bushes, and drawing on by degrees, and the Man that is with you, which lieth close by the Hay, may take them as they bolt into the Hay.

Your Purse-Nets are very useful to take both Hares and Rabets at certain times, but you must watch them, else they will soon bite through and escape; they are to be placed in their Meshes through Hedges, and in their Burrows or Holes. [Page 112] These Purse-Nets are also well known, and common to be bought in Shops that sell Nets. Three or four Dozen of these Nets are sufficient to lay over the Holes, and be sure to fasten them by tying the Strings to some Sticks thrust into the Earth, otherwise when the Rabets bolt out, they will run away, and get out of the Nets.

When your Purse-Nets are all fixed, and e­very thing in order, there must be one or two to 10 lie close to see what Game comes home, whilst in the mean time you beat the Bushes, and hunting at a distance to force them home; and if in case you have not Purse-Nets enough to lay over all the Berries, then stop those that remain with Earth, Bushes, or the like, to keep them out.

There is another way to take Rabets with these Purse-Nets, and that is at their coming out of their Berries, and you must Feret them out 20 in this manner; first, hunt up and down to force them all in; then spread your Nets over the Burrows, and so put in your Feret, or Ferets, with a Bell about their Necks, which will give notice of their coming to the Rabets, who en­deavouring to avoid the Ferets will bolt out into the Purse-Nets; from whence you must imme­diately take them, before the Ferets seize them, and when they come out of the Burrows, put them in again. You must Cope their Mouths, 30 that is, tye up their Chaps with some fine Pack­thread, which will hinder their seizing on the Rabets, and sucking their Blood; for when their Bellies are full, they will lie in their Burrows and sleep, so that you may wait above half a day before they will come forth, so that your Sport will be spoiled.

Some use to shoot a Gun into the Berries to awaken them; but I hold not that a good way, for it will terrifie the Rabets, and occasion them 40 to forsake the Berries.

You ought not to destroy too many Does, but of the old Bucks the more the better.

The Hay, as well as the Purse-Nets, must be made use of with your Ferets; for if they e­scape the Purse-Nets, then they are taken in the Hay.

For the keeping your Ferets observe these few Directions; Let them be lodged in some Hutch or Hutches, or for want thereof in Tubs, with 50 clean Straw, which ought to be shifted every three or four Days; give them every Morning and Evening some warm Milk from the Cow, and for want thereof, sometimes a warm Egg, the white and yolk being beaten together. You may sometimes Reward them when they hunt, with the Eye, or some part of a Rabet. You must carry your Ferets in Bags, and so carry them home again; also feed them with Sheeps-Hearts and raw Flesh. 60

As to the taking Hares and Coneys with Slip­ping-Knots, Collars, or the like Nooses, although the ways are common to many, yet I shall speak something of them.

In setting these Runing-Knots rub them over, as also your Hands and the Soles of your Shoes, with some of the Crosels of a Hare, or with some green Wheat, or the like; for they are of so quick a smell, that you will else be disco­vered.

In planting your Collar, make the least alte­ration imaginable; for old Hares are as subtle and jealous as Foxes, and their custom is when they come to any Hedge through which they use to pass, to scrape with their Fore-feet round about the Mesh, both before and in it, ere they will adventure through, so that you shall often find your Knot slipt aside and drawn, which you will hardly believe; yet Experience hath de­monstrated it in the same, place fifteen or twenty days together, so that for the greater security, it will not be amiss to plant a second Runing-Knot flat on the ground, just under that which you spread abroad, by which means you may take the Hare by the hinder parts. This second is intended to surprize him by the Foot, and one or the other will hardly fail.

It is the nature of the Hare, being once taken in any of these Knots, to pull with all his strength, and he seldom or never turns about like the Ra­bet, to bite off the hold-fast; you should there­fore use Latin-wier double twisted, which will be sure to hold either Hare or Rabet, or else as this Figure directs.

[figure]

Take a little Stake T, twice as big as ones Thumb, and about a Foot long; at the upper end S, make a Hole big enough to receive the Tip of ones Little-finger; then make your Collar of strong Packthread or Wier; if of the latter, tye the end of it to any strong Packthread, which draw through the Hole of the Stake, and fasten it to some strong Bough, which you must bend down towards the Stake; then put a short Peg of about an Inch long, and somewhat less than ones Little-finger very gently into the Hole S, so that the Branch being let go may not slip your Knot, but may stand bent. Then open your Collar R to the largeness of the Mesh, and if any Rabet or Hare be taken, and they turn about to bite off their Chain, they presently rub out the little Peg, then the Bough flies back and strangles it. This is an excellent way to take any Vermin.

I should now proceed to shew you several ways to take Deer, both with Toyls or Nets, and without, as also the manner of making them; but I forbear, lest I should be thought to teach the Art of stealing Venison; Custom and the Laws having so prevailed amongst us, as to discoun­tenance all ways of taking them, but by hunting them with Dogs.

[Page 113] I shall next proceed to some few Observations about Parks, and so conclude this Discourse of Hunting, with the Laws relating thereunto, as also to Forests.

CHAP. XXV.10
Of PARKS and WAR­RENS.

PARKS and WARRENS may not im­properly be termed the Nurseries and Store­houses of Game, as being always furnished with Deer, Hares, and Coneys, and generally with Pheasants, and other winged Fowl. The first Ro­man 20 that we read of that enclosed wild Beasts, was Fulvius Herpinus; and Varro had the first Hare-Warren.

As concerning the Scituation of a Park, I shall let you know wherein the beauty and ad­vantages do consist; not that every place can afford such a ground; however he that can't have all the conveniences and benefits, should get as many of them as the place will afford, not losing any, and not to follow the Foot-steps of some,30 who for want of due circumspection and mature consultation, have altered the frame of a Building two or three times before they have finished it, to their great loss and discredit.

A Park should have three sorts of Land in it, viz. Mountainous and Barren, Hilly and yet Fer­tile, Plains and Fruitful: The Mountainous part should be well covered with high Woods, at least a third part thereof; the Downs and Hilly part, should have one third part Coppices and low 40 Woods; and the Plains, at least one third part Meadows, with some Arable for Corn. A Park should not want a River to run through some part of it; also it ought to have a small Brook or Springs; but if Nature denies these Conveniences, Art must supply it by Ponds, made to receive and preserve Rain which falls; and such Ponds will be very profitable for Fish and Fowl, in some of which may be made a Decoy.

You should have your Park well stored with 50 M [...]st-Trees, as Oaks, Beech, and Chesnut, which are not difficult to be had, and are quick of growth, especially the two last, and they exceed the former also in sweetness and goodness; neither should Apple, Pear, and Plumb Trees be want­ing, all affording good food for them. You should also have your Park well inclosed, if pos­sible, with a Brick or Stone-Wall; or for want with a Pale of sound Oak, so high and close joyned, that neither Badger or Cat can creep 60 through, nor Fox nor Wolf leap over; and for a further defence it were not amiss to have a good Quick-set Hedge, vvhich should be always kept in a good Husbandlike order. Some part of the Mountain and High-Wood may afford a Hernery, and some part of the Midling-ground may be for a Coney or Hare-Warren. In the whole, you may breed young Colts and Horses, nor is it amiss that in some part of the lower Ground you have a Cow-Walk during the Summer Season. There should be at least five or six Inclosures in your Park, that you may shut out and let in your Deer, as you see occasion; sometimes altogether into your High-Woods, where in cold Frosts and Snows they may be sheltered and fed by the Keepers vvith Hay and Provender. You may also in Summer let such a proportion as you in­tend to use, be fed in better Ground than the o­thers which are for Store. You should also make artificial Holes and Caverns for the Deer to retire into, as well in the hot as cold Seasons.

CHAP. XXVI.
Of Terms relating to Forests, and Forest-Laws.

A Forest is a place peculiarly set apart by Royal Authority for the keeping and pre­serving of Game; and to that end there are certain peculiar Laws, Officers and Orders, many of which I shall here take notice if, and which may at large be found in the great Charter of the Forest.

A Purlieu is Ground adjoyning to Forests, which being made Forests by K. Henry the Second, Rich­ard the First, or K. John, were by perambulations granted by Henry the Third, and severed again from the same. And a Purlieu-man is he that hath ground within the said Purlieu, and 40 s. per Annum Freehold; and such a one may hunt within his Purlieu.

To every Forest doth belong certain Officers. A Regarder is an Officer sworn to take care of the Vert and Venison, to view and enquire of all Offences committed within the Forest, and of all concealments of them, and to see that Officers do well execute their Office; and of these Regarders there are more or less belonging to every Forest according to the largness thereof.

A Forester is an Officer sworn to look after and preserve the Vert and Venison within his Bailiwick or Division, and to watch the same both by day and night, likewise to apprehend all Offenders, and to make complaint thereof to the Forest Courts.

A Verderor is an Officer chosen by the Freehol­ders of the County, by a writ directed to the Sheriff for that purpose, and is to look after the Wood and Grass in the Forests, and of these there are also more or less according to the extent of the Forest.

A Raunger is to look after the purlieu and to drive back the Deer into the Forest and to enquire after Offenders, and to present their Offences.

An Agistor is an Officer that takes in to feed Stran­gers Cattle, and receives for the Kings use all such Tackmony as becoms due for the same.

A Chase is much of he Nature of a Forest, be­ing a place for the keeping of Game, to which belongs also several the like Officers.

The TABLE of the Contents of the several Things treated of in the respective Chapters in this Treatise of Hunting.

Chap. I.
  • THe Introduction pag. 67
Chap. II.
  • Of Dogs or Hounds, and the several sorts 68
  • Beagles ib.
  • The Tirrier or Harrier 69
  • The Tumbler and Lircher ib.
  • The Greyhound ib.
Chap. III.
  • Of Breeding of Hounds, with Directions for the 10 feeding and entring Hounds, and how they ought to be ordered bi.
  • Of the disposal of a Kennel, and how it ought to be situated for the Conveniency of the Hounds 70
  • Hunters Notes, with Directions for Winding the Horn on several occasions 71
  • Rules for the Entring your Hounds ib.
  • How the Huntsman ought to Dress, Govern and at­tend his Hounds 72 20
Chap. IV.
  • The Common Diseases incident to Hounds, with Di­rections for their [...]ure. ib.
  • The Mange, Letters, Ring worms, and S [...]abs in Dogs ib.
  • To kill Fleas, Lice, Ticks, and such like Vermin, that Dogs are subject unto 73
  • Of Madness ib.
  • To prevent Dogs from being Mad that are bitten of Mad Dogs by Bathing them 74 30
  • Of Gauls, Tetters, Ring-worms, Cankers and dry Sores, with Directions to kill them ib.
  • To kill the Canker in a Dogs Ear ib.
  • Of Dogs bitten by a Mad Dog ib.
  • Of Worms ib.
  • Concerning Dogs that are Surbaited in their Feet ib.
  • Of Bruises ib.
  • To Cure the Biteing, or Stinging of Venemous Creatures 75 40
  • Obstructions in the Bladder ib.
  • Cancers and Sores in Dogs Ears ib.
  • To keep Bitches from being proud ib.
  • To heal Wounds on a Dog ib.
Chap. V.
  • Hunters Terms of Venery ib.
  • Terms of Art used for Beasts of Venery and Chase, as they are in Company one with another ib.
  • Terms for Copulation 76 50
  • Terms for their Noise at Rutting time ib.
  • Terms for their Ordure ib.
  • Terms for the Footing and Treading of Beasts of Chase and Venery ib.
  • Terms for Lodging and Dislodging of Beasts ib.
  • Terms for the Tails of Beasts of Chase ib.
  • Terms for the Attire of Deer ib.
  • Terms of F [...]ying, striping and Caseing of Beasts 77
  • The Seasons for Beasts of Chase ib.
  • Terms for the Noises of Hounds 78
  • Other Terms to be taken notice of ib.
Chap. VI.
  • Of the Hart or Stag 79
  • In what Season the Stags Mew, and betake them­selves to the Thickets, &c. ib.
  • Of Fraying their Heads 80
  • Rules to know an old Hart by the Slot, Fewmets, Cariage, Fraying Posts, and by his Gate, Head and Branches ib.
  • Of the Rutting of Harts ib.
  • Of the Coats and Colours of Harts 81
  • Their changing their Food according to the Season of the year ib.
  • Directions how to use the Blood-hound or Suit-hound, for the finding out and Harbouring a Stag or Hart ib.
  • The Chase of the Stag 83
  • The Stags taking Soil 84
  • To kill a Hart or Stag at Bay ib.
  • The Death of the Stag, with the Ceremonies to be u­sed therion ib.
  • The Profits and Advantages accruing from the seve­ral parts of the Stag 85
Chap. VII.
  • Buckhunting ib.
  • The Keeper Shooting a Buck to be run down 86
Chap. VIII.
  • Hunting the Roe-Buck and Doe ib.
Chap. IX.
  • Hunting the Rain-Deer 87
Chap. X.
  • Hunting the Fox ib.
  • Earthing the Fox 89
  • The Death of the Fox ib.
  • Of Terries ib.
Chap. XI.
  • Hunting the Badger, and the Advantanges accruing thereby. ib.
Chap. XII.
  • Hunting the Hare 91
  • The Subtilties of the Hare when Hunted. 92
  • How to Enter Young Hounds to the Hare 93
  • The best Season of the year to hunt the Hare, with directions how to seek her, start her, and hunt her ib.
  • How to Reward the Hounds when they have kil­led the Hare 95
Chap. XIII.
  • Of the good shape of a Greyhound, with directi­ons how to chuse a Whelp, and to Order, Breed and feed him &c. ib.
  • Coursing with Greyhounds, with the several sorts of Courses, viz. The Course at the Deer, the Hare, and the Fox. 96
  • The Paddock Course, with the Description of a Paddock ib.
  • The Course of the Deer in a Forest, or Purlew 97
  • Coursing the Hare ib.
  • Coursing the Fox ib.
  • The Laws to be observed in Coursing ib.
Chap. XIV.
  • [Page]Treats of the Taking the Coney with Dogs, Nets, and Ferets, and how to order a Warren, with Directions for Breeding, and keeping Tame Rabets. 98
  • The Ways to take Coneys 99
  • Of the Ferets ib.
Chap. XV.
  • Hunting the Otter 100
Chap. XVI.10
  • Hunting the Beaver ib.
Chap. XVII.
  • Hunting the Wild Boar 101
  • The Nature and Subtilties of the Boar ib.
  • Terms of Art used in Hunting the Boar. 102
  • How to know a great Boar by his Foot, by his Rout­ing, and by his Soil ib.
  • How to hunt the Boar at Force with Dogs. ib. 20
Chap. XVIII.
  • Of the Polecat, Fitchet and Martern 103
Chap. XIX.
  • Hunting the Squiril ib.
Chap. XX.
  • To know by the Impression of the Foot, or by the Dung any Forest Beast. 104
Chap. XXI.
  • Concerning the taking Wolves, Foxes, Badgers, Ot­ters, &c. with Engines, Traps, &c. 104
Chap. XXII.
  • Directions for taking Pole-Cats, Fitchets, Martins, or Marterns, and the like Vermine, that are inju­rious to Warrens, Dovehouses and Hen-roots 108
Chap. XXIII.
  • Directions for killing Field-Mice, and Rats 109
Chap. XXIV.
  • Directions to take Hares and Coneys by Nets, &c. 112
Chap. XXV.
  • Of Parks and Warrens 113
Chap. XXVI.
  • Terms Relating to Forests, and Forest Laws ib.
Chap. XXVII.
  • An Abstract of certain penal Laws, relating to Hunting 114
  • Other Penal Satutes Relating to Forests and Chases 115

To the most noble Prince Henry Duke of Norfolk, Earle Marshall of England. Earle of Arundell Warren Surrey▪ Norfolk & Norwich, Baron Howard▪ Mowbray &c. Cheife of ye. illustrious family of ye. Howards Lord Leiutenant of y. Counties of Norfolk Surrey & Berks▪ Counstable & Gouernor of Windsor Castle &c.

This Plate is humbly dedic [...] by Ric. [...].

THE COMPLEAT ART OF FOWLING.

PART IV.
Containing great variety of Experimental Secrets, for the taking of all FOWL both by Land and Water; by Bird-Lime, Snares, Traps, Nets, Engines, Bird-Calls, Decoys, Intoxicating-Baits; the Fowling-Peece, Stalking-Horse, Setting-Dog, Spaniels, &c. Illustrated with great variety of useful Figures, for the better Expla­nation thereof.

CHAP. I.
The Introduction; Shewing what Fowling is, with the nature of the several sorts of Fowl; Their Haunts, &c.10

FOWLING is an Art for the taking all manner of Fowl, either by Enticement or Enchantment, as Calls, Intoxicating Baits, or the like, or else by Guns, Nets, Engines, Traps, Setting-Dogs, &c.

Now forasmuch as the Fowl on which this Art depends are various, and indeed numerous, so that to run into all the Particularities would 20 be Voluminous; therefore for the Practicioners ease and benefit, I shall comprize them under these two general Heads, viz. Water-fowl and Land-fowl.

Water-fowl may also be distinguished into two several kinds, that is, such that live of the Wa­ter, and upon the Water, by gathering much of their food from thence, and Swiming for the most part on the surface thereof; and such as live of the Water, but not upon the Water, as by the gathering of most of their food from thence, but not Swiming upon the same, more than wading with their long Legs, and diving with their long Necks for the getting their food therein.

Such as live on the Water, are Wild-Geese, Swans, Mallards, Teyls, Curlues, Widgeons, Moor-Hens, Dab­chicks; and generally all such that are Web-footed and I Swim. Those that live of the Water, and not on the Water, are Herons, Cranes, Bitterns, and any Fowl that hath his sustenance in the Water, and yet hath his feet Cloven, and Swimeth not. And there are some which may not improperly be termed Amphibious, as partaking of the Land as well as the Water; and such are the Sea-Pies, which are not Web-footed, and yet can Swim.

Land-fowl are properly those that have their sustenance and abode only on the Land; either in Woods, Coverts, Enclosures, Vplands, both Ara­ble and Pasture; in Marshy Grounds, or by and near Houses, Hedge-rows, and High-ways; And these Fowl may be distinguished under the ge­neral name of Fowl; and such are Pheasants, [Page 120] Partridges, Heath-Cocks, Plovers, Lapwings, Wood Cocks, Snipes, Ring-Doves, &c. also small Birds, as Quails, Blackbirds, Thrushes, Starlings, Larks, Wheat-Ears, Chawfinches, Sparrows, with abundance of other sorts, too tedious to name.

Now for your better effecting the taking of the aforesaid Fowl and Birds, I shall first give you some Instructions how to know and find out their haunts▪ and then proceed to the seve­ral 10 ways of taking them: But note, that by ob­servation 'tis found, that Water-fowl are the sub­ [...]les [...] of Birds, and have the greatest regard to their own safety; whence it is that they are compared to a well governed Camp, having Scouts on Land afar off, Courts of Guard, Sen­tinels, and such like watchful Officers, surround­ing the Body, to give a speedy Alarm at any approach of seeming danger. And indeed, who­soever shall observe their manner of living shall 20 find the same; for there will be always some stragling Fowl aloof of the main Body, which upon any suspicion of danger take Wing, and give notice to the rest▪ and it is the nature of Water-fowl, to fly in Flocks, loving Society. The like doth Starlings, [...], Ringdoves, Plevers, Lapwings, [...]aws, &c.

Of the Haunts of Fowl.30

THe greatest thing of moment for a Fowler to understand is the haunts of Fowl, and accordingly apply himself to take them. In order thereunto take notice, that all sorts of great Fowl that divide the foot, have their resi­dence by the edge of Shallow Rivers, Brooks, Ri­vulets, and [...]lashes of Water, and these keep not in flocks together, but are single, or here and there a Couple together, which makes them dif­ficult to be taken by [...], or the like; but are 40 the best flights for River-Hawks that can be, e­specially the H [...]n, that takes the greatest delight in such like places, where he may wade and dive in for the getting of Fish for his sustenance. They also delight in low Marshy, S [...]dgy, and Boggy Grounds; likewise in the dry parts of drowned Fens that are overgrown with Reeds, [...]ushes, and Sedge▪ and in such places the Bit­tern naturally delights, as being a melancholy Fowl; they also delight in half drowned Moors, 50 and in the Vales of Heaths, or Downs, that is sheltered with Hedges, Bushes, or Trees, where they may obscurely lurk.

For the lesser Fowl, and such as are Web-footed, they frequent those Fenny and Moorish Grounds that are continually overflown, where they may sw [...]m free from disturbance of Ma [...] or Beast; they also affect the man Streams and Channels of large Rivers, with swift and deep Currents; but the Wild-Goose, and the Barnacie, delight not 60 in any Water above their Sounding; for when they can't come to the bottom to suck up the ou [...] or the fatness of the Water, they seek new places. They also greatly delight to feed on green Winter-Corn, especially where the Lands are low and drowned with Water wherein they may paddle and bathe after feeding.

The smaller Fowl do also delight to feed in drowned Meadows, Moors, and such like places; also upon Plashes, Meers, Lakes, and Loughs, which have the shelter of Shrubs, Reeds, and such like things for their preservation from dan­ger.

As to the haunts of Pheasants, Partridges, Woodcocks, Snipes, Quails, and other Land-fowl, I shall speak of it when I treat of each in its proper place.

CHAP. II.
Directions for the making of Bird-Lime, and Lime-Twigs or Rods; and how to apply them to use for the taking of Fowl and Birds.

THe best Season for making of Bird-Lime, is between the tenth of June and the end of July, at which time the Sap is strongest and quickest in the Bark; but rather about Mid-summer Moon: And then take the Bark of Holly, put it into fair Water, and boyl it six or seven hours, and when it is so soft that you may pinch it through with your fingers, it is enough. Then take it off the Fire, peel away, the Inner white [...]ind▪ which cast away, and the green Bark (which is for your use) lay in some damp and moist place, covering it over with green Weeds, and as they wither put fresh thereon; and thus do for about nine or ten Days, by which time the Bark or Rind will be all rotten, with a white [...]oar over it. Then put it in a Mortar, beat it very fine like Green-Sawce; then wash it very well in Runing-water, to get out all the filth, making it into small Balls, the better to squeez out the filth with your hands in the Water. And to know when it is washt enough, it will swell in your Hands; and then keeping it still washing, it will fall a little, and be fine and white, which is a sign that 'tis enough.

Being thus washt, put it into a Stone-Pot, fill it about three parts, because it will work and swell, and keep it close covered to preserve it from the Dust: In three or four days it will have done working, and then keep it for use.

If you will have it for Water-Lime (which must be very strong;) then after it hath done working, as aforesaid, take what quantity you please, put it into a Skellet, to which put the like quantity of Venice Turpentine, as also the like quantity of Goose-Grease, with about half a quar­ter of a Pint of Aquavitae; let these boyl gently on the fire, keeping it always stirring; and to know when it is enough, have a Pail of clean Water, in which put Halt a Crown; then put the Stick which you stir the Bird-Lime with down into the Water to the Half-Crown, and when it brings it up it is strong enough, so that you may [Page 121] take it off the Fire, and put it into a Pot or Ports for use.

This Bird-Lime will never Freez, and therefore in the extremity of Frosty Weather you may use it in stead of the weaker for Land-fowl or Birds; And if for Water-fowl, so stick the Twigs in the Banks, and up and down the sides of the Ponds that about a handful of the Twigs be under Water, and if it toucheth but the foot, or the feathers of a Fowl, it will hold her.10

Of Rods and Twigs.

THe next direction shall be touching your Rods and Twigs, which must be bigger or lesser according to the strength of the Fowl you design to take; and of all others, those of Willow are the best, as being the toughest. You must also be careful how to plant your Twigs; for ex­ample, for great Fowl they must be at least half 20 a yard asunder, almost upright, but with their Heads inclining from the River, for no Fowl will come up against the Rods; and you cannot plant less than two or three hundred in a place: In the morning early visit your Rods to see what Fowl are taken; and if none, then beat about the Banks of the Rivers, and the like places for about half a Mile compass, to force them to your Rods, if possible, against the next Night.

In large deep Ponds and broad Rivers where 30 you cannot handsomly fix your Rods, you may use this Device; fasten two Poles, on each side of the River one, and strain your Cord, which must be artificially daubed over with Bird-Lime, and let it remain a little above the Water; to facilitate which, tye at certain distances little Bundles of dry Rushes, or Pease-hawm handsomly compacted; and this Device will not fail to take good store of Fowl, especially Duck, if any frequent the place; and two or three times a day; especially Mornings, 40 Noons and Evenings see if any Fowl are taken.

To place Lime-Rods for the Land for taking small and Great Fowl.

YOu may plant your Lime-Twigs, or Rods on the Land, especially in Green Wheat for Pi­geons or Partridges; and if the Weather be hard, for Wild Geese; but if you plant for heavy great 50 Fowl, your Rods or Twigs must be proportionable; and you ought to lie near hand concealed, that you may run in with your Spaniel on any occasion. Hares and Coneys may be also taken by this Device. You must place your Rods slope-wise, and the tops not above four or five Inches from the Ground, at about half a Yard distance, and as it were in Ranks.

The small and streight grownd Twigs cut from the Willow-Boughs are the best, and must be grea­ter 60 or smaller according to the Fowl you design to take, but not very big that they may be plyable and wind about the Feathers of the Fowl they touch. These Rods or Twigs being thus prepared, let the upper part, or half, be daubed over with strong Bird-Lime which must be well melted by the fire and even laid on, that Fowl may not dis­cern the Bird-Lime.

Being well acquainted with the Haunts and Feed­ings of Fowl, either before Sun-Set, or before day, go with your Rods to the said places, and there pin down a Stale, that is, a live Fowl of the same kind you design to take, but with liberty to flutter up and down at pleasure; then round about it within a Foot of each other, prick down your Rods slopewise in ranges, some one way, and some ano­ther, about a foot high; and the more Rods you have to stick down, the better success you will have. If you design to take Pigeons it were not amiss to have two or three of these Stales tied down; and near the said Rods scatter some grains of Corn, the better to intice them to the Rods. You must lie concealed, but in sight of the Rods, and you should have small Strings tied to the Stales runing along the Ground unto you, which by giv­ing a twitch will cause them to stir; so that the other Fowl seeing, will light in amongst them, and if with conveniency not frightning away the others, you may take these that are entangled, if not, let them flutter and tumble amongst the Rods. For the better facilitating your Sport have a well taught Spaniel, that when any Fowl offers to get away, your Dog will bring them to you; for in Flocks, especially of Pigeons, there will be work enough for both.

It were convenient to keep some for Stales for the like occasion; And when your Sport is done, gather up your Rods or Twigs, bundle them up and keep them for further use; and thus you may do Morning and Evening during the Season of the Year.

To take small Water-Fowl with Lime-Rods.

THe aforesaid Rods may be used for taking Water-fowl, and then they must be trim'd, and sized out according to your use, and the depth of the Water; for the deeper it is the long­er must your Rods be, and they must be trimmed with the strongest Water-Lime. For the placing these Rods stick them in the Water as you did those on the Land slopewise, and amongst your Rods here and there stake down a Stale or live Fowl, either Mallard, Teyle or Widgeon, as you can get; and place your Rods very thick, the better to take them. You need not watch your Rods as you do for Land-fowl, only visit them two or three times a day, as aforesaid, always having with you a good managed Water-Spaniel to find out those that are escaped with the Twigs, as for other uses.

For the taking of Wild Geese or Barnacles, which commonly feed and frequent together, their haunts must be found out; and their most certain place is upon Green Winter-Corn that is remote from Houses. Your Rods must be large for such great Fowl, and placed slopewise in Rows, about the Water-furrows, and in the midst, so that they can­not come to the Water without touching them. Let the Rods be of a dark colour, resembling the Earth, and you should be near hand to make in, for when any of them are taken they will flutter, and the rest will take Wing; and if any do en­deavour to escape (not b [...]ing throughly Li [...]ed) [Page 122] your Spaniel must retrive them whilst you take up those that are entangled.

To take small Birds by Lime-Twigs and the Lime-Bush.

FOr taking small Birds with Twigs, get up be­fore Day, and go to their Haunts, and all a­long the Hedges place your Lime-twigs, some up­right,10 some slopewise, and some cross, and at such thickness that the Birds cannot well pass in or out without being entangled. Having thus set the Twigs (which must be after the Birds are gon into the Fields to seek their Breakfasts) go into the Cornfields, or Meadows near adjoyning where they usually feed, and with a Pole beat or fright them up, and they will betake themselves to the Hedges for Sanctuary, and are so taken. This exploit is to be done about the Spring, in Harvest, and at 20 the fall of the Leaf; also early in the Morning and about Sun-set before they go to roost.

For the better taking the Birds get an Owl, and tie him in some part of the top of the Hedge, and the Birds seeing it, will come to gaze upon it, and so will become ensnared.

LIME-BVSH.

THe Lime-Bush is esteemed a very good way 30 to take Birds, which is thus done; Cut down an Arm, or chief Bough of any bushy Tree, whose Twigs are thick and long, yet smooth and streight, as the Birch, Aspen, Popler or Willow; then neatly cut off all the superfluous Twigs, and having your strong Bird-Lime well mixt and wrought together with Capons or Goose grease, warm and fit to work, daub over (of an equal thickness) the Twigs or Branches that are left with­in about four fingers of the bottom, but the Body 40 and Arms must be free.

Your Bush being thus prepared and Limed, place it for the Spring season on some Quickset or dead Hedge near unto a Towns end, a Farm yard or the like; In Summer and Harvest in Groves, in Hedges near Confields, Orchards, Flax, Hemp, or Rape-Lands; and in Winter about Barns, Stables, and Stacks of Corn, where Chaff and Corn is scattered up and down.

Having set your Bush in any of the said places 50 according to the Season of the Year, place your self conveniently near at hand, where you may lye concealed; and in this Bush you should have about half a dozen Stales fixed, whose chirp­ing and singing will intice others to the Bush; and it were not amiss if you were expert in their Notes to imitate them, which practice and due observ­ance will bring you unto; and for the effecting it, be provided with Bird-calls which are of several sorts, some being made of Wood, others of Tin, 60 and others of Horn; also some of Vellom, and some of Cane, &c.

This Bush is also of excellent use in the Winter for taking Feldefares, which usually fly in great Flocks, and settle upon Trees; so that being pro­vided with one or more of them which fasten up­on Trees, and having fixed thereon some Stales, beat about the adjacent Grounds to raise them up, and when they espie the Stales they will light on the Tree and Bushes for Company, and so are taken.

These Birds do also resort unto Hedges for the Haws; so that it is good to fix your Twigs thick up and down in such Hedges with some Stales.

Also they use much Marshy low Grounds to get Worms; so that they may be taken with your Lime-Twigs set up and down slopewise as before directed.

How to take Woodcocks and Snipes with Bird-Lime.

IT is by observation found, that a Disease is half cured when found out: so likewise it is easie to ensnare any Creature or Fowl, if their nature is rightly understood, and what they delight in either for Food or Exercise. But these Birds are difficult to discover, lying close, and not resorting much together, especially in the Day.

The nature of the Snipe is to lye in Frosty-weather, when all Plashes are frozen, by the sides of Rivers, and always with their Heads up or down the Stream, and not thwart it; and for the finding them out, you must be expert in the knowledge of the colour of their Feathers.

The Woodcock doth usually lye on Banks by Hedges and Ditches, against the Sun; and note, that a Day after a Moonshiny-Night they will endure one to come better to find them, than after a Dark-Night, and the reason is, for that in Moonshiny-Nights they can see to feed, and will not be so still and watchful taking their rest.

Now for the taking them with Bird-Lime, you ought to be provided with about sixty or seventy Twigs, which must be exactly and smoothly Limed; and having found their haunts, which you may know by their Dung, which is generally in low Plashy places, and such as are subject to Weeds, and not frozen in Frosty-weather; and at such places set your Twigs more or less, as you think fit, at about a Yard di­stance one from the other, and let them stand slopeing, some one way, and some another. If you design to see the Sport, you must lye con­cealed. And if there be any other open place near to that where your Twigs are set, beat them up, or else set your Twigs also there.

'Tis said, that these Birds do put their Bills into the moist places of the Earth where they fre­quent, and so jogging and moving them about disturbs the Worms, and cause them to come up, and so they become their Prey.

How to take Pigeons, Rooks, and Crows, upon new Plowed or Sown ground.

TAke a good quantity of small Lime-Twigs, or strong Wheaten-Straws of a good length which must be well Limed; these lay up and [Page 123] down where they frequent, and they will soon be entangled therewith; and for the better draw­ing them to your Twigs or Straws, you may be provided with two or three Pigeons tyed to the ground amongst your Twigs.

Another way to take Pigeons, Rooks or Crows, very pleasant.10

TAke some thick Brown-Paper, cut a Sheet into about 8 parts, and make them up like Sugar-Loaves, then Lime the inside of the Paper indifferent well three or four days before you intend to set them; then put into each Paper, towards the further end, two or three Grains of Corn, lay these Papers up and down the Ground, and as near as you can under some Clods of Earth, early in the Morning before they come to feed; for the quantity you may use your discre­tion,20 the more the better, about an hundred is in­different. When they come to feed they will espy the Corn, and begin to peck them out by thrusting in their Heads; then are they hood-winked, for they can't get it off by reason it sticks so close to their Feathers; when they find themselves thus served they take Wing, and will fly bolt-upright until they have spent themselves, and then come tumbling down to the delight of the Spectators.30

If you use this Invention in Plowing time, in­stead of Corn you may put into the Papers Worms, which will do as well.

CHAP. III.
Compositions and Baits for Intox­icating 40 of Fowl.

THere are several Artificial Compositions and Baits for Intoxicating Fowl, and yet without tainting or hurting their flesh, so that it is unfit to eat; some of them I shall men­tion.

Take a Peck, or a lesser quantity of Wheat, Rye, Barley, Pease, or Tares; to which put two 50 or three handfuls of Nux-vomica, and boyl them in Runing-water very well, until they are almost ready to burst; then take it off the fire, and when they are cold strew them upon the Land where you design to take the Fowl, and such that eat thereof will immediately be intoxicated, and lye as if dead, so that you may take them up at pleasure, provided you stay not too long (for the dizziness will not last long upon them, therefore be near at hand;) and it were not amiss 60 to kill them presently and take out their Intrals, although there is no great danger in it.

As the greater sort of Land-fowl are thus taken, so may you take small Birds, only making this alteration, that instead of Wheat, Pease, or the like Grain, you use Hemp-seed, Rape-seed, or Canary-seed, but above all Mustard-seed.

If you approve not of Nux-vomica, you may boil the said Grains or Seeds in the Lees of Wine (the stronger the better) as you did in the Run­ing-water, and apply them to use as aforesaid, and it will work the same effect, being esteemed more wholsom, having nothing of that poysonous na­ture in it; but in an hour or two the Fumes will be perfectly wrought off.

Instead of boyling the said Grains or Seeds in the Lees, you may steep them therein; but then they will require longer time before they are sufficiently swoln and fit for use.

Or instead of Nux-vomica, or Lees of Wine, you may infuse the said Grains or Seeds in the Juice of Hemlock, mixing therein the Seeds of Henbane and Poppy, or either of them. These must stand two or three days infusing, before they are fit to strew on the Ground for use, as afore­said.

Having shewed you how to take Land-fowl, it will be necessary to give you some Instructions to take Water-fowl, especially at such times as they range up and down to seek their food on the Land; for effecting of which,

Take the Seeds, Leaves and Roots of the Herb called Bellenge, and having cleansed them from all filth, put them into a Vessel of clean Runing-water, and let them lye steeping therein at least twenty four hours, and then boil them in the said Water until it is almost consumed; then take it off the fire, let it cool, and scatter it in such places where the Fowl have their haunts; they will greedily eat it, so that they will become immediately in­toxicated, and lie in a Trance as if dead; but you must watch them, for the Fumes will soon wear off.

Some do add to this Concoction the Powder of Brimstone boiled therein, which is very effe­ctual.

For destroying Crows, Ravens, Kytes, and such like mischievous Birds, that are found injurious to Warrens and Parks for the killing Coneys and Lambs, as also Chickens: Take the Garbage or Entrails of any Fowl, or for want thereof of a Pig or Rabet; this Garbage steep in the Lees of Wine with Nux-vomica, and when it is well in­fused therein, cast it forth in such a place where these Birds use to prey, or resort, which must be very early in the Morning, or in the Evening; and having a place prepared to lye concealed in near at hand, you may take those that are Intoxicated by the eating a bit or two of the said Garbage.

Or instead of the Garbage, you may take little pieces of flesh, and thrust therein a small piece of Nux-vomica, closing the place that it may not be discerned; and scatter the said pieces up and down where their haunts are, and it will do the same effect.

Having shewed how to take Fowl and Birds by intoxicating Baits, I will give a Receipt how recover them, that they may be made Tame.

Take a small quantity of Sallet Oyl, more or less, according to the bigness of the Fowl or Bird, and drop it down its Throat; then chafe its Head with a little strong Whitewine Vinegar, and it will soon recover, and be perfectly vvell.

[Page]

SHOOTING FLYING

To the Honourable Thomas Fairfax Es [...] eldest Son of ye Rt Honbl ▪ Henry Lord Fairfax of Denton in York-shire.

This Plate is humbly Dedicated by Richard Blome.

[Page 125] it in good Order, and for that purpose observe these few directions. Keep it always in a Case either of Wood or Cloth, in a dry place, for the Damp spoils and rusts it. Let your Lock be kept always clean and oyled, that the Cock, Hammer, and all the parts may be of a nimble Motion, upon the drawing the Trigger. Also a good Flint is of necessary use; and indeed the Fowler ought to be provided with several in his Bag, for fear of any Disaster of the other. The Barrel must 10 also be always kept clean; for if foul, it never carrieth true, besides 'tis subject to recoyl, which is dangerous; and it will occasion that oft times it flashes in the Pan a good while before it goeth off, by which means the Fowl are alarmed, and so es­cape, with several more ill Conveniences that may attend.

You must also be well acquainted with the condition of the Gun, whether it be apt to scat­ter, or carry the Shot round within compass,20 that you may load her accordingly; for if you shoot at a Flock of great Fowl, then the Shot must be large, and there must be more Powder, and less Shot; and if you shoot at a single Bird, then less Powder and more Shot; for the former will scatter, and the latter fly close and compact.

Directions about Shooting.

IN Shooting, whether the Game be Flying, or on 30 the Ground, on a Tree or Hedge, always (as near as you can) endeavour to Shoot with the Wind, and not against it; and rather sideways or behind the Fowl, than in their Faces; and not at a single Fowl, if you can compass more with­in your Level; and if on a Tree, Hedge, or the Ground, seek the convenientest shelter you can of Hedge, Bank, Tree, or the like, to be abscon­ded from the Fowls seeing you, which is very offensive to them; and being within Shot, and 40 a fair Mark, lose no time but let fly.

A Spaniel of great use.

YOU must always have your Spaniel, which must be trained up for the Sport (of which more in the Chapter of Land-Spaniels) attend­ing you very close, to fetch what you have Shot, as well those that are killed, as those that are maimed, and it may be all, or most of them 50 (especially Water-Fowl) are not to be convenient­ly come at by you, so that they would be lost, were it not for the assistance of your Dog, who upon your word of command, immediately seeks them out, and brings them to you. And be sure to have your Dog in such Obedience, as not to stir from your Heels, until you have shot, and give him the word of command to go; for to rush forth too suddainly upon the first fire, or snap of the Cock when 'tis probably the Gun goeth not 60 off, as many mad headed Dogs will do, may be the loss of your Game by Springing them.

Shooting Flying.

IT is now the Mode to Shoot Flying, as being by experience found the best and surest way; for when your Game is on the Wing, it is more exposed to danger; for if but one Shot hits any part of its Wings so expanded, it will occasion its fall, although not to kill it, so that your Spaniel will soon be its Victor; and if well dis­ciplined to the Sport, bring it to you.

For your better instructions herein, I shall lay down some few Directions. The Gun most pro­per for this sport, should be about four Foot and a half long in the Barrel, and of a pretty wide Bore, something under a Musket. You should have your Gun always Cock't, in readiness with your Thumb over the Cock, for fear of its going off contrary to your intention; so that when you meet with any Game, you must be quick, and ha­ving got an aim to your mind, let fly with all Expedition.

Some are of Opinion that you must Shoot something before the Fowl, otherwise it will be past before the Shot can come to it; but that is a vulgar Error; for no Game can fly so quick, but that the Shot will meet it; for the Shot flyeth as wide as about the compass of a Bushel, if right­ly ordered in the Charging: Yet I am of the Opinion, if the Game flyeth as it were over your Head, that 'tis best to Aim at the Head; and if it flieth from you, to Aim as it were under its Belly. And 'tis found best to let the Game fly a little past you before you let fly; for thereby the Shot will the better enter the Body.

Your next business must be to be provided with one, or at the most two Spaniels, such that are ra­ther slack metled, not ranging out of Shot, than those that are hot Spirited, to raise the Game be­yond Shot, and withall such that are at good command, being Trained up to bring the Game, and tender Mouthed, so as not to tear and spoil them.

Now for your better sport, it were good to have a Companion also expert in this exercise, who must be provided likewise with a Gun; then let one go on the one side of a Hedge, or Field, and the other on the other, provided the Field be not too broad, and beyond the reach of your Guns to the midst thereof; then cast off your Spaniels to range about betwixt you [...] [...] near at hand, observing to follow their Motion, so that [...] any Game is sprung up, you or your Companion may be in reach thereof; the like observe if you seek for Cocks or Snipes about Plashes. But above all things observe that you Train up your Spaniels, so that they may hunt not stragling, but in com­pass.

If you design for Cocks, and in a Wood, you may use two or three Spaniels; and if you had three or four Men on Trees to observe▪ that when the Spaniels have Flush't any, he that seeth it, should say I have Marked, which gives no­tice to him that Shoots to come, and make his Shot. If you design to kill Ducks, use no Dogs to Range, but only to follow you close behind, for those sort of Fowl will rise fast enough.

For your Learning to Shoot Flying, the Spring is the best time for Swallows or Swifts, and you will not miss of them in Church-Yards, and such like places.

This Method of Shooting Flying, may be per­formed [Page 126] also on Horseback, which is more commo­dious and less Toilsom; but then your business must be to bring your Horse to good command, and to understand his Duty, which he may be soon brought unto, the chief thing being to stand still upon the least check of the Bridle, but chief­ly not to start at the noise, or report of the Gun.

CHAP. V.10
Of the Stalking-Horse, with seve­ral Artificial Engines, for the getting near to Fowl to Shoot them.20

FOr as much as Fowl do frequently lye re­mote from Shelters, so that the Fowler is deprived of a Shot; Therefore by the Assistance of a Stalking-Horse, he may command a Shoot at pleasure, and to that end observe these Di­rections.

Let your Stalking-Horse be of the largest size, 'tis no matter how old he be, but he must be 30 well Trained up for your purpose, and be at ready command; and whereas there is some Art in Reclaiming a Horse, which by Nature is Wild and Fearful of Noise and Fire, such as that which a Gun makes, (especially at that nearest unto him) therefore get a strong Chain, and fasten it about his Head, then tye him up to a Tree, and Fire your Gun near him, giving him your Encou­ragement by Voice and Hand, stroaking him, and so continue Shooting near him several times; and although he continue his kicking and caper­ing, yet in about a Weeks Exercise after this 40 manner, he will become so Gentle, as to permit you to Shoot under his Neck, without the least reluctance or stiring. But some are of the Opi­nion, that during this teaching▪ the Horse must be kept waking in the Nights, and to Shoot un­der his Neck as well as in the Day.

Having thus brought him to endure the Noise of your Gun, your next business must be to Train him up to go as you would have him, moving gently 50 and Feeding as he goes; and to stand still and Feed when you would, which must be done by Practice, and his observing your Motions, and Checks.

Now for this Exercise your Horse must be Na­ked, that is, without Bridle and Saddle (for that will fright the Fowl, and cause them to take Wing) only to have a small slip, about six or eight Foot long, tyed about his lower Chap, where­with you may guide him as you see cause; and 60 remember to contrive your self so, as to go just level with his Shoulders, for thereby his Fore-feet will guid yours; and be advised to take your Level, from before his Breast, and not under his Belly, for that is too open and often lays you to the View of the Fowl, whereby you lose them. By this means you may gently, cause him to move up and down, to Stalk over Rivers, on the Sea-shoar, in Moorish Grounds, Dry Lands, Stub­ble Fields, or the like places; and as he moveth he will Feed: You must Shelter your self, and Gun behind his Foreshoulder, bending your Bo­dy low by his side, and keeping his Body always full betwixt you and the Fowl. Then having cho­sen your Mark, take your Level from the fore­part of the Horse, which is more safe and surer than under his Belly, and less perceivable; for the Shoulder of the Horse covereth the Mans Bo­dy, and his Legs the Mans Legs.

You ought not to endeavour the coming near­er the Fowl than your Piece will carry, nor to discharge out of Distance; for by the latter you are sure to miss, and by the former you hazard the disturbing them.

Some are of Opinion that to Shoot over the Horses Buttocks is the best way, and others are of the contrary, holding it best to Shoot over his Neck; but these ways I think not so good, yet leave them to your Judgment, and to use which way you find best.

You must upon no Account be without your Spaniel, which must be so exactly Trained up, that he may lye by your side until you have made your Shot; for if you appear in View, the Fowl will never permit you to come near them; and when once you have Shot, then give him your word of Command to fetch the Fowl unto you, especially those that you can't come at, which with practice he will soon be expert in, for they are Creatures of a great knowledge, and ready Ap­prehension, and naturally inclined to the Sport.

And for as much as Stalking-Horses are charge­able to keep, and that you can't always have one at command, I shall furnish you with other cheap­er Inventions, with the help of which you may approach near enough, to make a Shoot at the most coy Fowl that are.

An Artificial Wheel-Barrow for Stalking.

TAke a Wheel-Barrow made of light Fir for the purpose, and build it about with Boughs and Bushes, so that you sit in it, and not be discerned, and when you come where the Fowl are, move it very gently, that the Fowl may not discern it to disturb them, then Level your Gun through the said Wheel-Barrow, and Shoot kneel­ing, your Spaniel being always in readiness, and at command to fetch your Game. But this In­vention is something troublesome, therefore I shall proceed to some others more commodious.

The Stalking-Tree and Bush.

THe Artificial Tree is thus made: Take small Wands, or thin Splinters, foulded to­gether in the shape of the Body of a Tree, and so covered with Canvass, and painted like the Bark of the Tree it represents, that it may not be discovered by the Fowl; of which the Pop­lar and Willow that grow by the Rivers sides are the best, as being most known to the Fowl, and so the less to be suspected.

[Page] [Page]

STALKING

To the Honble. Sr. Henry Goodricke of Ribston Parke in Yorkeshire Knight & Bart. his Majesties Envoy Extraor­dinary to the King of Spain. Anno Dom [...]. 1682/3;.

This Plate is humble dedicated by Richard Blome

Arthur Soly fecit [...]683

[Page 127] Having made the Boal of the Tree, as aforesaid, in certain Holes made on the Top for that pur­pose, stick in the Boughs and true natural Branches of the Tree which you would make, in such sort as they grow at that Season, according to this fol­lowing Figure. 10

[figure]

20

As for the Stalking-Bush, it must not be so 30 tall as the Tree, but much thicker, and may be made either of one Bush, or of several neatly entangled and made fast together, and about the 40 height of a Man; and in the midst of the bot­tom must be a small Stake, with an Iron-point, to drive into the Ground to support the Bush whilst you take your aim. This way is so easie, that there needs no further explanation.

The Stalking-Hedge.

THe Stalking-Hedge should be two or three Yards long, and about a Yard and an half 50 high, and made in small Wands, and bushed out in the manner of a true Hedge, with certain Sup­ports or Stakes, to bear it up from falling whilst you take your aim to Shoot. And this is to be carried before you for your Shelter from the Fowl.

[figure]

60

These dead Engines, which carry not the shape of a living Creature, are not so necessary and useful to stalk with, as for a Stand; for their seeing a dead thing move will cause apprehension of fear and danger in them, as some design a­gainst them; therefore I shall give some Exam­ples of such living Shapes whose motion is not strange unto them; and first of the Horse.

An Artificial Stalking-Horse.

TAke some old Canvass, cut it into the true shape of a Horse with the Head as if feeding; then paint it like a Horse of a Brown colour, which is best. It must be made so por­table, that it may be easily carried with one Hand, so that it may be moved in such manner as if it grazed as it goes, nor must it exceed the usual bigness of a Horse; and to make it so light, it may be stuft with Straw. In the midst let there be fixed a Staff, with an Iron-pick in it, to stick down in the Ground at pleasure, and to stand fast whilst you take aim to Shoot, as also to turn and wind any way for the advantage of the Wind, or the like. This Figure shews its form.

[figure]

There are some of Opinion, that the stuffing the Canvass thus out is not so good as unstopt, being more troublesom to command; but if un­stopt, it must be artificially painted, and very thick, lest in the turning it against the Sun it appears transparent, which will affright the Fowl; and it must be proportionable to a Horse, being stretched out upon Splents of Wood, or strong Wier, This is so easie to be made, that it needs no Figure to explain it; and it were not amiss, if you cut a little Hole through the Shoulder-part, to level your Gun.

Instead of this Artificial Stalking-Horse, you may make in Canvass (either stuft or unstuft) the shape or proportion of a Cow or Ox, which must be also very well painted to the life, and according to the usual colour of Cattle in those parts, and be very exact in the Horns, to make them suitable to the Breed of that sort of Cattle there usual; and thus by the change of your Engines you may make your Sport the longer to continue.

If you design these Artificial Stalking-Engines for Fowl that flock together, especially Water-fowl, they will soon grow too crafty for those unstuft; but for Pheasants, Woodcoks, and the like, there can't be a more useful and cheaper [Page 128] way than the unstuft; for when you have made a Shot, you may roul up your Engine, and keep it for another occasion.

To conclude this Chapter, observe this Cau­tion, That these several sorts of Engines are to be used early in the Morning, or late in the Even­ing, and they are more proper for Water than Land-fowl; for when the Sun is up, its reflections sooner discovers the Imperfections in your En­gine, which the Water better hideth.10

CHAP. VI.
Of a Decoy-Pond, with some Di­rections concerning the same, and Decoy-Ducks.20

THe Fifth Chapter teacheth you several ways to take Fowl by Stalking-Engines, for the getting near to Shoot them; I shall now speak of Decoys, by which means great store of Ducks and Teal are drawn into a Snare, and that by the subtilty of a few of their own kind, which from the Egg are trained up to come to hand for the same purpose.30

These Decoy-Ducks fly abroad, and light into the company of Wild ones, and being become acquainted with them, by their allurements do draw them into the Decoy-place, where they be­come a prey.

The manner of doing it, and the making the Decoy-Pond, with the several Apartments belong­ing to it, requires a long Discourse; nor indeed can any particular Rules or Directions be given therein, as being variously made according to the 40 Situation of the Place, which must be consi­dered: so that such as would make any, had best inspect some already made, which are fre­quent in divers Parts of this Kingdom, especially in Lincolnshire, Cambridg-shire, and such like Fenny Countries; for it must be Moist, Moorish, and Fenny Grounds, with the conveniency (if possible) of a River running through, or by it; so that I shall only say, that the place where these Decoy-Ducks entice them, must not be very 50 broad, and set on both sides thick with Osiers, and at the Top and Entrance must be Nets to let down by the Man that is to attend it, when he seeth the Ducks all entred in, by which means they become taken.

And great care must be taken, that the Nets are not let down until all are within the limits of the Nets; for if any should escape it would be very prejudicial, for such a Duck, or Ducks, would be shy of being drawn into the like Snare again,60 which would occasion others in the Company to do the same, and thereby the Decoy would be much prejudiced.

CHAP. VII.
Directions for the making, choosing, ordering and preserving Nets.

BEfore I enter on the ways of taking Fowl with Nets, it will be necessary to give you some Directions touching the making, choosing, and preserving them, left the charge exceed the profit; for Nets are a dear and perishing Com­modity, without due care in the well ordering them; and it were very good Husbandry if you, or any belonging to you, had the Art of making them, for some are very chargeable to buy. The Instruments or Tools required for the making them are Wooden-Needles, of which you should have about half a Dozen of several sizes, and as many Moulds of divers sorts, some round, and others flat; also a pair of flat Round-pointed Scissers, and a Wheel to wind off the Thread. It can't be expected to give Rules for the knitting or making the several sorts of Nets, but it is re­quisite to be understood by every compleat Fowler, were it only for the mending them a­broad as well as at home.

But a word or two concerning the making thereof: Let your Packthread be the best and evenest you can get, and greater or smaller, ac­cording to the Fowl you design to take; the like must be the Meshes; for great Fowl, let the Meshes be about two Inches from point to point, for the larger they are (provided the Fowl can't get out) 'tis the better to entangle them. Let your Nets be not too deep nor too long, for that is troublesom to manage; let them be well verged on each side with a strong twisted Thread.

As for the Colouring your Nets, they should be either yellow, green, or russet; the latter is done by putting them in a Tanners-Pit, where they must lye until well coloured, and this Tincture is also an excellent preserver of them: The second colour is Green, which may be thus made; Take green Wheat, chop it, and boyl it in Water, and then rub your Nets therewith, and let them lye infusing therein about twenty▪ four hours; this is the colour that Birds least fear, as resembling the Grass. But to be more exact in this colour, it were well to have it done by some Silk-Dyer. The Yellow is done by steeping the Net in the Juice of Salandine, which being dried in the shade will become a good yellow; for it must not be over-bright, but of the colour of Stubble in Harvest time, for which Season this Colour is most proper.

For preserving your Nets, be sure to keep them dry; and to that end, hang them abroad in the Sun whenever you have used them in the Dew or Rain. And be careful to mend the least Rent or Breach upon the first discovery, lest it become worse; and be perswaded to hang your Nets from the Wall, to prevent their being injured by Rats and Mice, which are great Enemies to them. What [Page 129] relates more to Nets, I shall speak of when I treat of each sort.

In the next place I shall proceed to the use of Nets for the taking Fowl and Birds, both for Ri­ver and Land.

CHAP. VIII.10
Of the taking of Partridges with Nets, as also with Calls, En­gines, &c.

PARTRIDGES are for the generality cowardly and fearful, likewise very simple, and easie to be deceived with Nets, Baits, Trains, 20 calls, Engines, &c. so that the taking them may be obtained by a Mans own and only labour and industry with great ease and pleasure.

The most usual ways are by Nets, Engines, Calls, by the Setting-Dog and Stalking-Horse; for as touching the killing them with the Hawk it is treated of in Hawking; therefore I shall omit it here.

In the first place, 'tis necessary to know their Haunts, which are not certain like Pheasants, but 30 various, yet the places they most delight in are in Corn-fields, during the time that it grows, or is standing, for under that Covert they shelter and breed, nor do they quit the Corn-fields after Harvest, for the Stubble, especially of Wheat, affords them shelter and food; but when the Stubble is soiled or trodden down with Cattle, then they forsake it, and betake themselves to the Barly-Stubble, and in the Furrows amongst the Clots, Brambles, long Grass, and Fog, hide 40 themselves and their whole Cov [...]ys.

Upon the approach of the Winter Season, when the Stubble-fields are broken up, or that it is trodden and spoiled with Cattle, they betake themselves to inclosed Grounds and Vpland Meadows, and take Covert under Hedges, a­mongst Mole-hills, at the Roots of Trees, amongst Broom, and in the foggy dead Grass. You shall also find their Haunts all the Year long in small Cop­pices or Vnder-woods, especially if adjoyning to 50 Corn-fields; also in Closes pestered with Shrubby-Bushes, Brambles, Broom, Fern, or the like Covert; also in the height of Corn-Harvest, when the fields are pestred with People and Cattle to di­sturb them; they frequent the Fallow-fields all the Day, and early in the Mornings and late in the Evenings come thither to feed.

Having knowledge of their Haunts, according to the situation of the Country, whether Moun­tainous or Plain, Champain or Woodland; and the 60 Season of the Year, whether Summer or Winter; Your next business is to find them out in their haunts, and where they lodge, and this is done divers ways; some there are that will find them out by the Eye, although they lye never so close couched together, distinguishing them by their colour from the Earth, which is an Art not to be taught, but only by practice; and in seeking them this way, make your approach nearer and nearer unto them until you perfectly discern them (provided you do not stand at gaze upon them) but keep in a continual motion, looking another way as if you saw them not; for they are a lazy and fearful Bird, and unwilling to take Wing.

Partridges may also be found out by their Haunts where they did last couch or lye; that is, whe­ther the Haunt be Old or New, which may be thus known. If it be new, their Dung will be green and soft; also the padling with their Feet round a­bout will be soft and dirty, and the Earth will ap­pear new broken, and of a darker colour than that round about it, and if very new the place where they sat will be warm and the ground smooth, with some Down, or small Feathers scat­tered upon it. If the Haunt be old and long for­saken, the Dung will be dry and brickle, their Treading will also be dry, rough and hard, and of the colour of the rest of the ground; for the less dry, clean and soyled the Haunt is, the longer hath it been left; and the more moist, dirty, &c. the later was it since they were there.

If you find the Haunt to be new and warm, then be assured they are not far off, if not forced away be some disturbance; therefore be very care­ful and move with leasure, having regard to the Furrows of the Lands, to the end you may not raise them, and there is no doubt but that you will find the Covey, and so soon as you do, imme­diately wind off from them, and look not upon them but carelessly cast your Eye another way, and so fetch a large circumference about them, and lessening it by degrees until you have discovered them; and although they lye dispersed (as oft times they do) as being the nature of the old Ones to lye a little distance from the Covey, yet you need not fear the taking them.

To take Partridge by the Juck.

THere are others that find them out by go­ing to their Haunts very early in the Morn­ing, or at the close of the Evening which is called Jucking time, and there listen for the calling of the Cock-Partridge which will be very loud, and with no small eagerness, upon which the Hen will answer him and soon come together, which you may easily know by their chattering, and rejoy­ing Notes, upon which take your Rang about them, drawing in by little and little to the place where you heard them Juck, and be sure to cast your Eye about, especially towards the Furrows, and without doubt you will soon discover how they lye, and accordingly proceed to take them.

To take Partridge with the Call.

IT is an excellent way to take Partridges with the Call, concerning the making of which, and the manner of using it, I shall speak of more a­non.

With this Call having learnt their true and na­tural Notes, and being expert to tune every Note in its proper Key; and arrive to the knowledge [Page 130] of the due times and Seasons for every Note which are as various as the Pheasant, if not more; then being prepared with your Calls, go to their Haunts very early in the Morning, or late at Night, (the rest of the Day being inconvenient) and having placed your self secretly, so as to see and not be seen, as if in Wood-lands under some Bushes, Bram­bles, or the like; If in the Champain, under some Bank or Ditch, If in Meadows, under the Hedges, and if in Corn-fields in the Furrews. Then listen 10 to hear them Call, and accordingly answer them with your Call in the same Note, always altering, or doubling it over more or less as the Partridge doth, until you find it draweth nearer and near­er unto you, and not only one single Partridge will come, but all that hear it, as being so na­tural to them.

Of the Net.

THe Net for taking Partridge should be 20 shaped and proportioned in all points as to breadth and length like the Phea [...]an [...]-Net, only the Mesh must be somewhat smaller, but as to the colour it may be the same; yet some are of O­pinion, that it were not amiss if it were som­what longer and broader, for thereby you may catch them with the greater certainty, your cir­cumference or walk about them being the larger, and will cover more ground, but let not your 30 Net be so long, or broad as to be cumbersom un­to you; For that will rather obstruct than fur­ther you; The Nets, if for a Covy should be sixteen or twenty Yards long, and four or five deep; and if in Paring time, then eight or ten Yards long, and about four deep; And let your Lines and Cords be answerable.

Having your things in order, and found out a Covy, draw forth your Nets. And taking a large circuit about the Partridges with a quick pace and 40 carless Eye, as if you did not see or regard them, until you have made ready your Nets for the purpose, then begin to draw in your circumference less and less, until you come within the length of the Net; then pricking down a Stick about three Foot long, to which fasten one end of the Line of your Net, and making it fast in the Earth as you walk about without making any stay, you shall then (letting the Net slip out of your hands) spread it open as you go, and so carry it and lay 50 it over the Partridges; but if there be more than your Net will cover by their stragling, then draw forth another Net, observing the same method and joyning them close together, and after this manner you may do with a third, if occasion re­quires. And having thus covered them, rush hastily into them, and with an affrighting noyse force them to Spring, and thereby they are en­tangled and may be taken without hurt. And in this manner you may take them at all Seasons,60 and in all places where they Haunt,

The Tunnel-Net.

THe most usual way to take Partridge is with a Tunnel-Net, the form of which is here represented as extended and pitched.

[figure]

This is a Net so well known, that it is need­less to give any further description of it.

Having found out a Covy, take a compass, and so pitch the Net at a good distance from them, but sometimes farther, and sometimes nearer as the Ground falls out, and then surround them with your Stalking-horse, or for want thereof with the Artificial Stalking-horse or Ox, as in the fifth Chap­ter treated of; and gently drive them towards the Net, not coming on them in a direct Line, but by windings and turnings, and sometimes standing still, as if the Horse graised. If in case the Par­tridge make a stand, and look up, 'tis a sign they are afraid and intend to take Wing; therefore make a stand or a little retreat, and when you find them quiet after a little respite that they are busy in seeking for Meat (which is a good sign they are not afraid) you may move nearer; and if any single Partridge lyeth remote from the rest, he must be fetched in by taking a circumference about him, and thus they may be driven like as it were a Flock of Sheep into a Pen. But a live Horse made for the sport doth far exceed the artificial Stalking-Horse, or Ox.

The Wings of the Tunnel must not be pitched in a direct Line, but inclining to a Semicircle, when the Partridges are at the mouth of the Tunnel the old ones will stand a while as if to consider, but pressing gently on, some of the young ones will venture in, and then all the rest will follow, upon which make in apace to secure them from returning back and making their Escape.

Of the Spread-Net, or Drag-Net.

THere is another way to take Partridges with a Spread-Net, which by some is call­ed a long Tramel-Net, the Figure thereof is here described.

[figure]

[Page 131] The use of this Net is thus; a little after Sunset go into some Field, or place where you think to find sport, and there hide your self, and you will soon know if there be any by their Calling and Judging, and then they will take a small flight, and oft times two or three before they go to roost; and be sure to observe exactly the place where they roost, by making some Mark at a distance, to the end you may not be to seek the place in the dark, Then prepare two strait light Poles which must 10 be as long as the Net is broad, which to do well should be about fifteen or twenty Foot, and of a proportionable length; As to the Poles they need not be all of one piece, but of two or three, well fixed together fasten the Poles upon the ends of the Net with small Cords, and let the Tail of the Net have three or four little Cords fastned with small Bushes to trail on the ground, that the Partridges may be forced to spring up when they hear the rus [...]ling noise. They are represented by the Letters 20 M, N, O.

This Sport cannot well be performed without one to assist you; Then being near the place, unfold your Net where the Ground is clean, and being extended each must lay hold on the middle of the Poles, listing up the higher end of the Net about five or six Foot from the Ground, and letting the lower part follow slopeing about half a Foot from the ground. The Cords with the Bushes must drag on the Ground, and should not be above two foot 30 long. When the Partridges rise both must let go their hands, and let the Net fall on the ground upon them Sometimes it so falls out that the Par­tridge rise before the Net be over them, which may be occasioned by the too great noise you make; therefore be as still as possible, and if so, then let them rest at least two or three hours be­fore you attempt any thing again; then march o­ver the whole Field with your Net ready set, and 'tis ten to one but you will meet with them 40 in the end.

This way is good only in dark Nights, there­fore some use to carry a Light, or some Fire with them, which the Partridges perceiving believe to be Day-light, and are discovered by the noise they make in wakeing and stretching out their Wings; then they hide the Light and draw the Net over them.

How to take Partridges with Lime-Rods.50

TAke the largest and strongest Wheat-straw you can get, or for want thereof strong R [...]e-straw, cut them off between knot and knot, observing that the lowest joynts are the strongest and best. These Straws lime with the strongest Bird-Lime you can get or make, in doing of which observe the same way as formerly directed for pre­paring your Lime-Rods. Then go to the Haunts of the Partridges and call them, and if you are 60 answered by them, then at some distance from you prick down these Limed Straws in several cross-rows, not only cross the Lands, but the Fur­rows also, taking within your circumference two or three Lands; Then lie down close, and call again, not ceasing till you have drawn them to­wards you, by which means they will be no soon­er touched but intangled and besmeared, so that you may take them.

By the way take notice that this manner of taking Partridges is proper only for Corn-Fields, and chiefly in Stubble time. But if you would take them in Woods or Meadows with Bird-Lime, then use the ordinary Lime-Rods as before treated of, and order them as the Lime-Straws.

Taking Partridges with an Engine, or Dri­ving them.

THe taking Partridges with an Engine is no less profitable than either of the other, and somewhat more delightful; you may use this way in any Grounds; The manner how to do it is thus, first make an Engine in the fashion of a Horse of Canvas stuft with Straw according to the ex­amples of artificial Stalking-Horses already treat­ed of.

Having this Engine and your Nets in readiness, go to their Haunts, and having found out a Covy, pitch your Net with the greatest advantage of secrecy you can, lying on the Ground that they do not see you until they are intangled; for by gen­tle Steps you may steal upon them, and drive them before you, like as it were Chickens, provided you are not too hasty; If they run any By-way or contrary to that which you would have them, then cross them with your Engine, and they will presently run back into any Tract you would have them; and thus by a gentle and slow pace you may drive them into your Net. Be sure to take the advantage of the Wind. Let your Nets be pitched slopewise, and let your Face be veiled over with something Green or dark; Blue Sarse­net is very good.

Several sorts of Pitfalls above and under Grond, for taking whole Covies of Par­tridges, as well as single ones, or indeed any other Birds.

THere is a cheap invention for the taking of a Covy of Partridge, or any other Birds in Flocks, or single by a Pitfall. You are not o­bliged to wait upon it, except to vvatch others from stealing your Game vvhen taken. The Engine is represented by this Figure.

[figure]

[Page 132] It is composed of four Sticks, or pieces of Tim­ber AB, AD, CD, and BC, each about three Foot long, and bored through within two Inches of the end, vvith a Hole big enough to turn ones middle Finger in. They must be placed on each other in a Square, and let into each other about half the thickness of the Stick; then take two Hazel tough Rods about the bigness of ones Finger, each four or five Foot long, which must be fixed in the forementioned Holes, crossing them over each o­ther,10 that their other ends may be fixed in the opposite Angels, as the Corner Sticks in Cages use to be laid; then you must have store of light strait Sticks, longer than each other by degrees, about the bigness of ones Finger, which you must compile one over another, the longest first and the shortest last up to the height of the crossing of the two Rods, so that the whole will resemble a kind of Bee Hive; but remember to leave a Hole at the top, to be covered or uncovered with 20 some Stone, or the like, to take out the Birds when they are in the Pit-Fall. You must at last bind the end of your Sticks to the two Rods with Oziers, strong Pack-Thread, or small Cords, and this is all that belongs to the Pit-Fall. But for the erecting or tilling it up do thus. Take a Stick FG, Three Foot long, and the bigness of ones little Finger, which must be smoothed above and below; then tie the end F, with a little Cord to the middle of the foundation Stick AB, the 30 other end of the Stick FG, must have a small Notch in it about two Inches from the end. The next thing is to provide another Stick IK, about a Foot and a half long, with a small Cord fixed on the upper end thereof, where you may place another little Stick GH, half a Foot long, having the end G shaped like the sharp end of a Wedge, the lower end of the Stick IK, must be fixed in­to the Earth, which being done, the fore part of the Pit-Fall DE, will come to be lifted up, and then place the end H, of the little Stick HG, 40 under the Cage to support it, and the other end shaped like a Wedge into the Notch of the Stick FG; then let the Pit-Fall rest gently on it, and it will be ready set with one side lifted up about a Foot high, and the Stick FG, will be about three In­ches from the Ground; then strew your Bait under the Cage. If you are certain there is a Covey vvhich frequents any Ground, if you can entice them to feed in one certain place but two or three times, you may then plant your Pit-fall 50 vvith good success. The same Pit-fall will serve to take small Birds, Hares, Rabets, or Vermin.

Directions to take old Cock Partridges, with Natural and Artificial Calls, with Di­rections to make them.

THis way of taking them is laborious, and requireth much exactness in imitating their 60 several Voices, and at last you can pretend to take but one at a time, however that there may be no deficiency, in giving you the secrets in this Art of Fowling, I shall shew you several ways to take Partridges with Calls.

You must know that Partridges begin to pair, or Couple about February, or the beginning of March, if the Weather be not cold, and do continue in their Woings until the end of July.

It hath been the Opinion of several, that one Hen will fly to the Call of another, moved thereto through jealousie and fear of losing their Cock; and that they fly on purpose to beat that Hen that calleth; but there is no such thing, the occasion of this Error hath proceeded from hence, that there are some Cocks that call just like Hens.

This Sport may be practized every day, during the aforesaid Woing Season, from Day Break, until Sun Rising, and from Sun Setting until Night. This ensuing Figure doth represent the manner how to take them.

[figure]

Suppose the space from H to J, be a Hedge that encloseth some piece of Wheat, Barly, or other Grain, set your Hen Partridge in a fine o­pen thin Wyer Cage, so as she may be seen at a good Distance, but not the Cage, the Letters T, V, X, is the place where she must be placed, then pitch your Net called a Hallier, quite round, as you see it formd by the Letters, K, L, M, N, O, P, Q, R, S, each part distant from the Cage about twenty Foot, then retire behind the Hedge; if any Cock Patridge in the Ground Call, the Hen will presently Answer, nor will the Cock fail to come unto her, and sometimes five or six will come together and fight with each other just un­der the Net, which of them shall have the Hen, until at length some of them find themselves entan­gled: In this case you are not presently to sally forth, for peradventure some more may be like­wise ensnared; nor can they soon disintangle themselves.

I shall give you one caution to save a great deal of pains, that is, never pitch in any place but where you have heard some Cock call; and then to pitch within sixty or eighty Paces of him, that they may be within hearing of each o­ther.

Let your Cage be coloured green, and let the Bars be at such a distance, that the Hen may thrust out her Head and Neck to hearken and Call; and if you have well Trained her to this sport, she will be industrious at it.

How to make Artificial Calls.

YOU have had Instructions as to the Natural Calls, now follows to speak of Artificial ones, with directions how to make them; these following Figures do represent the Forms thereof.

[Page 133]

[figure]

The first sheweth the Outside, and the second 10 the Inside, they are best made of Box, Walnut­tree, or such kind of hard Wood, and formed as you see like a Boat, and about the bigness of a Hen Egg, with two ends AB, bored through from end to end; and that about the middle DC, there must be a Hole about the bigness of a Sixpence hollowed within to the bottom; then 20 have a Pipe of a Swans Quill, and the Bone of a Cats Foot opened at one end, which you must convey into the Hole A, and so thrust it on to the opening D, the other end of the Bone A must be stopt; then take a Goosquil opened at both ends, which must be put in at the Hole B until the end C be near the end D of the Bone, and that blowing at the end B, you make the Noise of the Cock Patridge, which varieth much from the Call of the Hen; and you must remove further, or nearer the end C of the Quill, from 30 and to the end of the Bone B, until you have found out the exact Note, for it is not soon done, your Call being fixed, and that you are expert in the Notes, get a Net called a Pocket Net, the form of which is here described.

[figure]

To this Net fix a pliant Stick of about four or five foot long; and so you may go abroad early in the Morning, and late in the Evening, or as occasion serves, when you hear a Partridge Call, the manner of pitching the Net, and the placing your self, is represented in the said Fi­gure; for Example, suppose you heard the Par­tridge Call at A, then hide your self flat on your Belly at B, having planted your Net just in the Way or Furrow, betwixt your self and the Partridge, but within ten or twelve Foot of the Net, especially if there be any Bush or ad­vantage of Ground to shelter you. The way to set the Net is thus; Tye the Packthread, Num­ber 1, which passes into the Buckle Number 2 of the Net, unto the end of the Stick, which must be stuck in the Ground, and so bending it like a Bow, fasten the other end of the said Stick in the Ground on the other side or Furrow, having in like manner tyed to it the end of the Packthread Number 3, which passeth through the Buckle Number 4, so that the two Buckles 2 and 4 may come pretty near each other; then take one end of the Pocket-Net, Number 5 or 6, and cast it over the bended Stick, so that it may lye thereon, the other end may hang on the Ground in such manner, that if any thing endea­vour to pass by that way, it must needs run into the Net. Every thing being in order, and that you heat the Partridge Call, you must return two or three Answers louder or softer, according to the distance from whence you hear the Call, and only so loud as to be heard, and the Par­tridge will presently make near you; then give him a soft Call; when he has answered your first Call he will begin to run, and coming near the Net will make a little pause, and forthwith rush on so that the upper part will fall on him and entangle him, then take him out; and after this method you may take several. But this way of taking them lasts only during the time of their Breeding, which is in April, May, June, and 40 July.

Another way to take Partridge with the Call, and a Broad Net.

HAving found out the Partridges by your Call, as aforesaid, pitch up your Broad-Net, which should be about fourteen or fifteen Yards long, and seven or eight deep. This Net spread over the Ground near them, the length-ways 50 to them; then peg down the Net to the Ground on all sides, except that towards them, and that raise up in the midst by a Stick about four Foot long, with a Notch in the Top, the better to hold the Line of the Net from slipping, and bend the Stick from the Net to make it the stiffer, which Stick must be thrust into the Ground, the better to hold it.

Your Net being thus fixed, you must have 60 either a Natural, or an Artificial Stalking-Horse, to drive them into the Net; but I hold the Natural one the best, which must be one that is trained up for the Sport, as already taken notice of in the fifth Chapter.

Directions to take Partridges in hard Frosty-weather with Slipping-Knots.

IN hard Weather, whilst the Snow is on the Ground, and that Birds are very hungry, make your search in small Coppice-Woods, and in Corn-Lands, especially near little Springs where the Snow doth commonly lye; and if you find,10 that either by the tracts of their Footing, or by their Dung, that they have been there; then cleanse away the Snow about thirty Foot square, and your small Hed [...]e, as before directed, thwart the Lands that are sowed, and in the bottom of each Furrow plant the Snare, or Runing-Loop of Horse hair, just the height of the Partridges Neck; then strew a little Oats or Barley on both sides the Hedge, and let it be ready fitted by Sun-set, and by Morning you may expect to take 20 some, especially if you had given them a Bait twice or thrice before; for the expectation of finding food will entice them to come.

The same Art may be used when there is no Snow; if you are sure the Partridges frequent any certain place, and if it be Pasture-ground, it is then in vain to make your Hedge rows; you need only in that case to plant the little Stakes confusedly up and down in good quantities, with little Runing-slips and Loops, and throw some 30 Grains of Corn near every one of them. I will not say you may take a whole Covey; but questionless if a Covey light amongst them, you will take the greatest part.

If you plant these Devices in April, May and June for old Cock Partridges, you must then be sure to make a kind of a Slopeing in your Passage where your Collar is placed, that the Partridges may be forced to stoop with their Heads; for else they run at those times to Couple with each 40 other, and then carry their Heads aloft; and without this Caution you will not take one in an hundred.

I should here speak something of the Setting-Dog; but by reason I design a Chapter for that purpose, I shall omit it here.

CHAP. IX.50
Directions for taking Pheasants several ways.

PHEASANTS, as well as other Fowl, are to be taken divers ways. I shall name those in most use, which are performed with the Gun 60 and Spaniel, with Nets, with the Call, with the Lime-Bush, or vvith particular Engines, of which there are divers kinds, and of sundry shapes, ac­cording to the Season of the Year they are to be used in, and the manner of the place in which they are to be used.

Pearching of Pheasants, and Shooting them.

YOu must be provided with a good Spaniel, that will Range well about, and when he hath Pearched the Pheasant, to Bay soundly, which vvill cause them to keep the Pearch the better; then hearing whereabouts he is, make up to him as privately as possible, and having espied him (being at a reasonable distance) make your Shot; and for your Dogs encouragement, let him bring it to you, and make much of him.

For your Dog, it may be either a Land or Water Spaniel, or one betwixt both, provided he is trained up to a Gun, and to bring his Game to you.

If you desire to take them in the Night (pro­vided it is Moon-shine) the places where they usually Pearch (if it be Windy) are upon the lower Boughs, near the Body of the Tree; but if in a clear and fair Night, or although a little Rainy they will set at the further ends of the Boughs; and when you find them, make your Shot.

You may have a Dog to fetch them to you, in case they are not killed dead, but run away, as having broken a Wing; but your Dog should not Bay and make a Noise, as in the Day.

They are to be found in Corn-fields and Hedge-rows at other times, vvhere they may be Shot and Pearched, as aforesaid.

Taking Pheasants with Nets.

FOr the taking Pheasants vvith Nets, vvhich is only in Crowing-time, that is, about the end of February, and in March, before they begin to breed: It is done either generally, or particu­larly. Generally, vvhen the vvhole Eye, that is, both the Old Cock and Hen, vvith all their young Ones, or Powts, as they flock and run together in the thick Woods or Coppices, are taken; or Particularly, vvhen you take none but the Old, and such of the Young as are of Age fit for Coupling, so that you can't have any assurance vvith your Nets, to strike at more than one or two at a time; for the Pheasant is of a Melan­choly and Sullen disposition, and when once they have Coupled do not accompany in flocks as other Birds.

Now for the greater facility of taking them you must be acquainted with their Haunts, and their usual places of Breeding, which are in thick young Coppices well grown, and free from the annoyance of Cattle, or the Path-ways of Men; for being of so fearful a Nature, they esteem the strength of their Covert their only safety, and do not abide or breed in open or plain Fields, nor under the Covert of Corn-fields, low shrubby Bushes, or in large and tall Trees.

Having found their Haunts, the next thing will be to find out their Eye, or Brood, vvhich may be done several ways; But take notice that Pheasants do usually come out of the Woods and [Page]

PEARCHING the PHEASAN [...]

To The Right Honble: Kenneth M'Kenzie Earle of Seafort: Lord M'Kenzie, & Kentaill, Baron of Ardelu, Islandonan, & Lews, Shiriff principall of the Shires of Ross. & North Nass. &c.

This Plate is humble dedicated by Richard Bl [...]me.

Arth▪ Soly fecit

[Page 136] the aforesaid Game off from their ovvn Ground, yet would be glad to preserve them for their own use, and so to manage the Game, that they might always have some thereon as vvell to please them selves, as to delight a Friend that desires to see some Field Sport; for the benefit of such, this follovving Invention is very proper and Delight­ful. When you perceive an Eye of Phesants, or Covey of Partridges to Haunt such a Ground, go thither, and in some place thereof distant from a­ny 10 Hedge, Bush, or Gate, about forty or fifty Paces pitch up four Sticks, each a Foot long in a Square; and in the middle of the Sticks scatter four or five handfuls of Oats, Barly or Wheat; and as you walk through the Ground from the Sticks, scatter a few Corns, which may serve as a Train to draw on the Game, to the great heap in the midst of the Sticks. The Pheasants or Partridges coming to feed according to their use, vvill soon find out the Train, and consequently the great Bait. The 20 next Morning they vvill not fail to return thi­ther in hopes of another Repast, against vvhich time let it be laid ready for them, and pitch up by every one of the four Sticks a Bush of Furz; if they eat the second time (vvhich you may discern by their Dung) notwithstanding the Furz Bushes, then against the next coming cross some Lines of Packthread in Form of a Net, and if for all this they come and Eat, you may be as­sured to take them vvhen you please, with this 30 following Device.

Take away the Sticks, Furzbushes, and Pack­thread, and then pitch the Net as is here des­cribed.

[figure]

The four main Supporters of the Net, A, B, C, D, must be fixed strong in the Ground, that the Net may be light spread on the Top. The four Sides of the Net must be ordered in the same manner as shall be now directed by the Example of one of them, according to the de­scription in the said Figure. Lift up the Side of the Net designed by the Letters E, F, over the Top of the Net that is spread; for the Side must not lye flat, but stand sloping like a Pent-House supported by small Twigs; the Bottom fastned in the Earth, and the Cord or Verge of the Net resting on them; then place the four Furz-Bushes at each Corner of the Net, the more to embol­den them; and be sure the Runing Cord of the Net be exact and right, the two Ends whereof must be tyed to a strong Cord, designed by the Letter G, which Cord must reach to the next Bush or Shelter where you lye concealed, but within view of the Net. When all is fixed, spread your Bait as formerly; but try once or twice how the Net will draw, that upon occa­sion all may be in good Order. The best time to wait their coming is at Day-break, when they are all busie in Eating the Bait; then draw your Line with a quick Motion, and presently fix it to the Bush where you are, and make all possible haste to the Net, to prevent their esca­ping.

If you have a desire to preserve a Breed in your Grounds, then kill the Cocks and keep the Hens until towards Lent in some convenient Room, and then put them out into your Grounds, and they will soon find Cocks for a Breed.

To take Pheasants without hurting them, for preserving the Breed.

40 FOr taking some alive without hurting, for the storing your Grounds, or accomodating a Friend; having found their Haunts (which is easie to be done by their Calls, Crowing, and little Paths which they make, especially in the Dew) then place your self for the better view on some Tree without Noise; and when you find they are there, strew a little Barley, Oats, or Wheat in those little Tracts for a Train, and in some likely place lay five or six handfuls together, to which they will come, as being drawn thither by 50 the Train; then provide for them after this man­ner: Plant your Pocket-Net, described by the last Figure in the Eighth Chapter, the Use of which is in the said Chapter at large treated of. You may set two or three of them in other places, and plant cross their Walks some short Nets, called Pocket-Hayes, made as here described; 60

[figure]

[Page 137] They are about a Yard long, and sixteen Inches deep. You may also in other Paths place three or four of your Collars of Horse-hair in certain fit Passes athwart their Paths, to take them by their Legs, and be sure to watch out very narrowly; the first that is taken will strug­gle hard to get off, so that speed is required to prevent it; he will also make a great Cry, which may occasion the frighting away the rest that are near at hand, so that nimbleness is required; 10 besides, if any be taken by the Strings, they will hazard the breaking the Lines and their own Legs; and you should not forget to Bait the Passes to the several Snares.

Of Driving of Pheasant Powts.

FOr the Driving and Taking young Phea­sants, called Pheasant Powts, in Nets, ob­serve these Directions.20

Having by your Diligence and Skill found out an Eye of Pheasants, place your Nets cross the little Pads and Ways that they have made, which are much like Sheep-Tracts; and if possible, you should find out one of their principal Haunts, which may easily be known by the bareness of the Ground, their Mutings, and the Feathers that will lye scattered about; and always take the Wind with you, for it is their custom to run down the Wind;) place the Nets hollow, loose,30 and Circular-wise, the Nether part thereof must be fastned to the Ground, and the Upper-side lying hollow, loose, and bending, so that when any thing rusheth in, it may fall and entangle it.

Having so sixt your Nets go to the Haunts, and with your Call, if you find the Eye scattered, Call them together; and when you find that they begin to Cloock and Peep one to another, then forbear Calling, and take an Instrument,40 called by some a Driver, which is made of good strong white Wands, or Osiers, such as Basket-Makers use, which must be set in an Handle, and in two or three places; it must be twisted or bound about with small Osiers, according to this Figure.

[figure]

With this Driver, so soon as you see the Pheasants gathered together, make a gentle Noise on the Boughs and Bushes about you, which will so fright them, that they will get all close together, and run away a little distance, and stand to hearken; then make the same Noise again, which will cause them to Run again; and observe the same way until you have driven them into your Nets, for they may be drove like Sheep. But if it happen that they take a contrary way, then make a raking Noise, as it were in their Faces, which will presently turn them the right way, as you would have them.

Observations in Driving.

IN using the Driver there are two chief things to be observed; The first is Secrecy, in keeping your self from their sight, for if they espy you they will run and hide themselves in Holes under Shrubs, and will not stir till Night: And the other thing is Time and Leasure; for rashness and too great haste spoils this, and in­deed any other Sport.

To take Pheasants with the Lime Bush, or Lime Rods.

IN taking Pheasants this way, you must know their Haunts; and be provided with good strong Bird-Lime, and trim them therewith according to Art.

The Lime Bush used for this purpose should not contain above eight Twigs, and should be the Top Branch of a Willow-Tree, with an indiffe­rent long Handle, made sharp to stick into the Ground, or into some Shrub or Bush; and it were not amiss if you planted your Bush near that Branch of a Tree that the Pheasant useth to Perch upon; and you should be furnished with two or three of them, to fix up and down for the surer taking them.

The use of the Lime Bush.

WHen you have placed these Lime Bushes, take forth your Call, and use it as before 50 directed, keeping your self secretly and in one place, until you have enticed them about you; which will not be long, if your Call is good, and that you are expert therein: And as they are taken by the Rods on the Ground, so you will surprize them with your Bushes; for being scared from below they will take Perch, as is natural unto them, to see what becomes of their Fel­lows; and when one is Limed, what by her striving and strugling, and by the rest coming 60 and gazing, to see what is befallen her, the rest will be in danger of being Limed.

It is the nature of old Cock Pheasants when you call, to come flying from Pearch to Pearch till they come near you, and not to run upon the Ground, especially in the Winter Season, which is the chiefest time for the using the Lime Bush, and as soon as they light on any of those [Page 138] Pearches where your Lime Bushes are placed, upon the least touch they will be taken.

It is very requisite to count all your Lime Rods; for when you have gathered up all the Pheasants, and see what Rods are wanting, you may conclude that some Pheasants are run with them into the Bushes; so that it will be necessary to have a good Staunch Spaniel, that is well trained up to hunt, and bring his Game to you with a soft Mouth without hurting it.10

The Form of the Lime Bush and Rods.
[figure]

20 THese Rods, as well as the Bush, may be placed upon Bushes, Shrubs, and Trees, as well as upon the Ground, and in any open place 30 where any Bird must pass from one place to another.

The Lime Rods must be set slope-wise, and for the generality cross one another, and not only one way, but the quite contrary way, so that the Points be severed agood distance from one another, and place them in Rows; which being duly obser­ved, no Fowl can come any way but they must be in danger of touching: And, for a Caution, place them not too thick, for that will occasion fear in 40 them, so that you will lose your labour.

The Season to be observed for the use of the Nets, Lime Bush, and Rods.

THe Use of the Nets is from the beginning of May till the latter end of October.

The use of the Lime Bush, and Rods, is for the Winter Season; viz. from the beginning of No­vember 50 until March or April, so that there is no time of the Year (but their Breeding time) but that they may be taken in.

To take Pheasants with a Cocking-Cloth, in Crowing time.

TAke a Cloth of course Canvas about an Ell square, which put in a Tan-Pit to colour 60 it, which vvill be soon done; then hem it about, and to each Corner of the Cloth sow a piece of Leather about three Inches square, and put two Sticks to go cross-wise to keep it out, as A, B, C, D, and there must be a Hole in the Cloth to look out of, as E; the Figure describeth it.

[figure]

And being provided with a small short Gun, when you are near enough hold out the afore­said Cloth at Arms end, and put the Nosel of the Gun out of the Hole, which serves as a Rest for the Gun, and so let Fly, and you will seldom miss; for Pheasants at this time will let you come near them, and the Cocks will be so bold as to fly at it.

In this Season the Pheasants use Hedge-rows and Coppices, and by their Crowing you vvill know where to find them.

Another way to take Pheasants.

BY an experenced Sports-man amongst divers ways to take Pheasnts, this following way is found most Effectual for the taking them in the Winter-Season, provided there is no Snow.

Be provided with a Net in the shape of a Cast­ing-Net, but larger, with the Meshes about five Inches wide. Then take some Pease or Wheat, and knowing their Haunts, which will be in young Coppices about three or four years growth, and in such places seek out their Paths and their Drop­ings, that is, their Dung; these Paths generally lead from the Young Coppices to those that are Older; and having found any Path out, lay a­bout a Pint of the Corn in a place, observing where you lay it, so that they may come to eat. Thus do for several days for about a Fortnight, by which time they will be so accustomed to it, that they will come to expect some Food; and by this means all or most of the Phesants in that part will be gathered to it. Having thus trained them to it, and that you certainly know when you come in the Morning that they have been there, which you will find by their Eating, and by their Dung: Then in such places set your Nets, that is, one in a place, which is thus done. Tye the Top of your Nets to a Bough, then spread it at the Bottom and Peg it down to the Ground on all parts except one, which must be raised up a­bout a Foot and an half, like an Arched Door, with an Ashen-Stick; then fix to the said Arch several Rods made of Hasel, with the Taper Ends to the Earth within the Net, so that the Phesants may come in by parting the Sticks, but not go out a­gain.

[Page 139] Having thus set your Nets, which must be made of course Thread, such as Rabet Hayes, and of a Tand-colour (by putting it into a Tan-Pit,) cover your Nets with Boughs, to prevent others from finding them, and be sure to set them some distance in the Wood.

CHAP. X.10
How to take Quails, More-Powts Rails, &c. with Calls; with di­rections to made the said Calls; as also with Nets.20

THe best way to take these Birds as well as those aforesaid, is to know their Haunts, and to learn their perfect Notes on the Call.

The Quail delights in Corn-Fields and Mowing-Grass. The More-Powt in Heaths and Forests, and the Rails in long Standing-Grass, where they may lye obscure.

Quails are to be taken by Calls, whilst they are in their Wooing, which is from April to August. 30 The Quail will Call at Sunrising, about Nine a Clock, about Twelve, about Three in the Afternoon and at Sun-set. The Notes of the Cock differ much from the Hen, so that you must be expert in both if you intend to do any good in taking them; and when you hear the Cock Call, Answer in the Hens Note, and so contrary-wise Answer the Hen in the Cocks, and thus you will have both come to you, so that you may cast over your Net and take them.

If it be a single Cock-Quail he will come at the 40 first Call; but if he have a Hen with him, he will not forsake her. Sometimes you shall hear only one to answer your Call, yet Three or Four will come to the Net, so that you need not make too great hast when you find one entangled, for in a short time some more may be taken.

Quails are a neat cleanly Bird, and will not much run in Dews or Wet Places, but choose ra­ther to fly, that they may not dirty themselves; you must therefore at such times place your self 50 as near your Net as possible.

If by Accident the Quail passeth by one end of the Net, lye close for some time and let her go a little way, then gently remove your self on the o­ther side of the Net, and Call her back again, and she will soon come to your Net.

The Form of the Calls, and how to make them are as follows.
[figure]

THe first is made of a Leather-Purse, about two Fingers wide, and four long, in fa­shion like a Pear; It must be stuft half full of Horse-hair in the end marked with the Figure 5, fasten a small Device marked C, made of a Bone of a Cats, Hares or Coneys Legs, or of the Wing of a Hen, which must be about 3 Fingers long, and the end C must be formed like a Flagelet, with a little soft Wax; also put in a little to close up the Hole A, which open a little with a Pin, to cause it to give the clearer and shriller Sound. This Pipe fasten in your Purse, and then to make it speak hold it full in the Palm of your Hand, and place one of your Fingers over the place, marked 5; you must strike on the place D with the hinder part of your left Thumb, and so to counterfeit the Call of the Hen Quail.

The other Quail Call must be 4 Fingers long, made of a piece of Wyer, turned round in such form as the Figure describes. It must be cover­ed over with Leather, and one end thereof closed up with a piece of flat Wood marked 2; about the middle you must have a small Thread, or Leather-Strap wherewith you may hold it, so as to use it with one Hand, and at the other end place just such a Pipe, as was described before in the making up the first Call.

Now for the Calling with it, hold the Strap, or piece of Leather, with your left Hand close by the piece of Wood No. 2. and with your right Hand hold the Pipe just where it is joyned to the Flagelet No. 3.

The Net to be used should be made of 60 Silk, or very fine Thread, about Twelve yards square, with a Hole in the midst, large enough to sit in, so that when the Quail comes within the Compass of the Net, your rising up will cause her to fly, and so she will be taken: The places to pitch these Nets must be in Corn-Fields, as Barley, Oates, or the like.

Another way to take Quails.

THere is another way to take Quails with the same Calls, but with a different Net, made also four Square, about Twenty or Two and Twenty Foot every way, and of Green Silk or Thread, with a couple of strong Straps at any two of the Corners. There must be two in com­pany to use it, and each must hold one of the 10 said Straps, when they use the Net, and so to draw it over the Quails, the bottom hanging a liltle on the Ground. The manner is that when you hear any Quail Call, listen exactly where­abouts it is, and go softly thither; if it Call no more, give it a light touch with your Pipe, to make it speak. This way is most fit to be used in Standing-Grass, or in Stubble-Fields.

You must have a nimble Ear to discern the place, and so go thither with your Net drawn,20 and when you are just at it, let fall, and beat with your Hat, or the like, to cause it to rise, and by this means you may take many in a day.

If you are alone then pitch your Net in such manner as the Fore-part may rest clear from the Ground about Eight or Nine Inches by the help of the Benty-Grass, or some small Sticks; then give a Call, and they will come under the Net. 30

CHAP. XI.
Concerning the taking Birds great and small, especially Wild Fowl with Lines, Springs, Strings, Bird-Lime, &c. in Woods, Meadows,40 Splashes and the like.

WHen you have found out any place where Fowl resort, either great or small, observe this Device. Get a good Bundle of Sticks sharp­ned at one end, and forked at the other, and a­bout a Foot in length; stick these into the Ground slightly, only to bear up the Lines or Cords of which we come now to speak, and the Sticks 50 must be placed in strait Lines, and at equal dist­ances over the whole Haunt where they resort. You must get such a proportion of Pack-Thread, or small Cord as you intend to use, which must be daubed all over with strong Bird-Lime, if it be for strong Fowl, or that you use it in the Water, otherwise ordinary Bird-Lime may serve. Your Rows of Sticks should not be above Two Yards distance from each other, and the Sticks of such proportions as to support your Lines, which 60 must be laid all along over the Forks. You must fasten the ends of your Lines to your last Sticks with slipping-knots, that when any Bird comes to touch on any part of the Line, the whole Line may give way to ensnare it, so that the more the Fowl striveth to get away, the more fast it becometh.

If you set against the Morning, fix your Rods over Night, and set the Lines at least an hour be­fore Day; for if you go later, 'tis twenty to one but the Fowl will be there before you; and if you set for the Evening, all must be fitted by Sun-Set, or before, lest the Birds finding you there do avoid the Place: And 'tis not amiss that in all these places you embolden the Fowl by strowing some Baits to entice them thither.

If you set in the Water, your Lines should be not above five or six Inches out of the Water, that the Fowl may not touch on them as they Swim to and fro; and you may then fix one end of your Line, and only let the other end be with a runing knot, and so you may be assured of find­ing what you take. If you set over any Water, your Sticks must be longer or shorter according to the depth of the place. In light Nights this Device is not so good, but in dark and great Fogs it is excellent, for you need not watch them, only re­pair thither every Morning and Evening, and when you have tried one place you may remove to another Haunt, and still preserve and supply your Sticks, Lime, and Lines as you see occasion.

It were not amiss in case you set for Water-Fowl, that some of your Lines be about two Foot high above the Water, to ensnare the Fowl as they make their flights, not before they de­scend into the Water; for you cannot but have observed that they use to fly about that distance at such times.

CHAP. XII.
How to take Fowl and Birds by the Legs, Necks, or both in Noozes made of Horse-Hair with runing Knots.

THe Devices to take Fowl and Birds by the Necks or Legs and sometimes by both, is very sure; the most fitting places for this pur­pose are amongst Bushes and small Coppices, and the manner is thus; Make as many little Hedg­rows of about half a Foot high (by sticking small Furz Bushes, Brambles, Thorns, or the like in di­rect or crooked Lines, and of such length and in such number as you think fit, and according to the Game you think the place may afford.)

At several distances leave little open Spaces big enough for the Birds to pass through. This ensuing Figure represents unto you the same.

[figure]

[Page 141] The Letters A, B, C, D, E, F, G, represent the Passages or void Places, in each of which fix a short Stick of the bigness of ones Finger, and tye thereunto a Nooze of Horse-hair finely twisted with a slipping Knot, as the aforesaid Noozes do demonstrate, that the Fowl endeavouring to pass through may draw upon his Neck, and so become strangled.

For Wood-Cocks lay those Strings flat on the Ground to take them by the Legs; If you make 10 the same Devices cross plowed Furrows, place your Strings in the bottoms thereof, you may take store of Partridges, provided there be any in the Ground; and for the enticing on the Fowl it were good to scatter in and about the Knots or Noozes some Grain.

CHAP. XIII.20
Directions to take small Birds in Pit-Falls.

HAving given Directions for the taking Par­tridges with Pit-Falls, I shall now proceed to some of the like Nature for the taking small 30 Birds, but the former was above the Earth, these in and under it, and are excellent for taking Blackbirds, Thrushes, Feldivares, and such like Birds that feed on Worms. The best Season for this Sport, is from the beginning of November, to the end of March; the Device is cheap, profita­ble and so common, that scarce any Schoolboy but what is acquainted therewith; however these ensuing Figures will demonstrate it unto you.

[figure]

40

The Figure marked A is a plain Paddle 50 Staff, such as Countrymen use to carry in their Hands as they go about their Grounds; with this 60 you are to cut the Turfs, wherevvith the Pit-Fall is to be closed, which Turfs must be cut at least two Inches larger than the Pit: The same Paddle may likewise serve to dig your Pits, which should be always made in the Sun, near some Hedge where Birds frequent. They may be also made in great Woods near some Holly Bushes, for in hard Weather Birds use to resort to such places in expectation of Worms, by pecking up and removing the Dead Leaves that lye on the Ground. The Holes may be about seven Inches deep, on the opposite side let it be about four or five Inches long, as is designed by the letter O, and from X to O, there may be a Distance of about six Inches. Then take a small Stick V, X, not quite so big as ones little Finger, and about five In­ches long, which cut sloping at the end V, the other Part of the Stick toward X being Tapered, or cut small by Degrees: Prick the small end X into the side of the Pit marked M, and let the end V lye upon the Ground. Then have another Stick marked as S, T, about the bigness of a Swans Quill, and four Inches long; which cut flat and smooth on one side, and at the end S on the other side cut a Notch.

In the next place you must have a forked Stick marked, as Y, Z, somewhat bigger than the other Sticks, and about five or six Inches long; the end Z being cut like the end of a Wedge.

Your next business is to make use of your Turf, which must be four or five Inches thick, the bigger side to be laid over the largest side of the Pit.

Take the end S, of your little Stick, and lay the flat side on the place M, upon the end of the Stick, which is pricked into the Ground; then place the end Z, of your Forked Stick into the Notch S, and lay on the Turf, making the end of the Forked Stick marked Y, to be just under the place of the Turf marked K; then move and place the small Stick which holds the Fork in such manner, that the least Bird that comes to tread upon the end of the Stick T, the Turf may fall down, and so ketch the Bird in the Hole.

For inticing the Birds to come to your Pit-Falls, get some Earthworms and stick four or five of them through the Body with some long Thorns, or small Sticks for that purpose, and so set them in your Pits, to be seen by the Birds that come near it; and be sure that the Birds can't come to the Pits any other way than by that marked O; you may Plant a little Hedge-Row of short Sticks about the two sides of the Pit.

If in hard Frosty Weather, stir up some fresh Earth about the Fore-front of the Pit, which will much entice Birds to come.

There is another kind of Pit-Fall, which is not so Troublesom as the former, nor so many Sticks or Devices required, you may use it in a­ny Hedge, Bush, Tree or the like, and in all Weathers. It is to be made and used after this manner, as it is here described.

[figure]

Take a Holly Stick about the bigness of ones middle Finger, and about a Foot and a half long; [Page] [Page 143] ly that of Wheat from the middle of October to the end of March, and that after this man­ner.

About Nine a Clock at Night, the Air being Mild, and the Moon not Shining, take your Low-Bell which must be of a deep and hollow Sound, and of such a reasonable size, that a Man may carry it well in one Hand; which Towl just as a Sheep useth to do whilst it Feedeth. You must also have a Box much like a large Lanthorn, and 10 about a Foot and a half Square, big enough for two or three great Lights to be set in; and let the Box be Lined with Tin, and one side open to cast forth the Light; This Box fix to your Breast to carry before you; and the Light will cast a great Distance before you very broad, whereby you may see any thing that is on the Ground, within the Compass of the Light, and by Con­sequence the Birds that Roost on the Ground. And for the taking them have two Men with you,20 one on each side, but a little after you, to the end they may not be within the Reflexion of the Light that the Lanthorn or Box casts forth; and each of them must be provided with a Hand-Net of about three or four Foot Square, the Figure represents the Form, which must be fixed to a long Stick to carry in their Hands, so that when either of them seeth any Birds on his side, he must lay his Net over them; and so take them up, ma­king as little Noise as possible, and withal be not 30 overhasty in runing to take them up, but let him that carrieth the Light and Low-Bel be the foremost, for fear of raising others, which their coming into the Limits of Light may occasion, for all is dark except where the Light casts its Re­flexion, so that by no means there must not be any Light.

Note that the sound of the Low-Bell doth cause the Birds to lye close, and dare not stir whilst you put the Nets over them, and the Light is so 40 terrible unto them, that it amazeth them. And for Caution you must use all imaginable Silence, for fear of raising them.

If you would use this Sport by your self, then in one hand carry the Low-Bell as before directed, and in the other a Hand-Net about two Foot broad and three Foot long, with a Handle to it, made as the Figure represents, which is to lay upon them still as you espye them, and some like this way better than the former.50

If you have Company with you, one may have a Birding-Piece, to the end that if you es­pye a Hare, the best way is to shoot it, for it is hazardous to take it with the Net.

Some there are that instead of fixing the Light to their Breast as aforesaid, do tye the Low-Bell to their Girdle by a String that hangs to their Knees, and their Motion causeth the Bell to strike; and then they carry the Light in their Hand, ex­tending their Arm before them, but the Lanthorn 60 or Box must not be so large as that which you fix to your Breast. Your best way is to try both, and use that which liketh you best.

CHAP. XVI.
The way to take Small Birds, called Bat-Fowling.

BAt-Fowling is likewise a Night Exercise, and takes all sorts of Birds both great and small that Roost not only on the Ground, but on Shrubs, Bushes, Hathorn Trees, and the like places, and therefore proper for Woody, Rough, and Bu­shy Places.

In the Depth of Winter is the best Season for this Sport, and the darker the Night, and the colder the Weather, 'tis so much the better.

For the manner of Bat-Fowling, it may be used with Nets, or without, according to your Plea­sure and Fancy. If without, suppose your Com­pany be twelve or fifteen, let one Third Part carry Poles, to which little Bundles of dry Wisps of Hay or Straw (or instead thereof pieces of Links, or Hurds dipt in Pitch, Rosen or the like that will blaze) must be bound at top; another third part must attend upon the said Fires, with long Poles Rough and Bushy at the upper ends, to knock down the Birds that fly about the Lights; and another third Part must have long Poles to beat the Bushes, and other places to cause the Birds to fly about the Lights, which they will do as if amazed, not departing from it; so that they may be knock't down at Pleasure. And thus you may spend as much of the Night as is dark, and find good Divertion.

It will be convenient for one in the Company to carry a Candle and Lanthorn, that in case all the Lights are Extinguished, they may be kindled at Pleasure; And be sure to observe the greatest Si­lence imaginable, especially till the Lights are kindled.

The other way with Nets is thus done, Let two or three go with Lanthorns and Candles lighted, extended in one of their Hands, (just such as before described to carry in your Hand, in the Chapter of the Low-Bell,) and in their other Hands small Nets, something like a Racket▪ but less, which must be fixed at the end of a long Pole, to beat down the Birds as they sit at Roost; which being surprized with the great blazing Light, will sit until they are knockt down; then there are others whose Business is to gather the Birds up, and to put them into a Basket or Bag to car­ry home.

A Cross-Bow for this Sport is very useful, to Shoot them as they sit.

CHAP. XVII.
Of the Tramel-Net, and its use.

THere is another way to take great and small Fowl by Night in Champain C [...]untries▪ [Page 144] and that is with a long Tramel-Net, which is much like the Net used for the Low-Bell, both for Shape, Bigness and Mesh.

This Net is to be spread upon the Ground, and let the neither or further end thereof (being Plum­med with small Plummets of Lead) lye loose on the Ground; and then bearing up the former end by the Strength of Men at the two formost ends, only Trail it along the Ground, not suffering that end which is born up to come near the Ground,10 by at least a Yard.

Then at each side of the Net must be carried great Blazing Lights of Fire, such as were for­merly spoken of; and by the Lights Men must be with long Poles to raise up the Birds as they go; and as they rise under the Nets so to take them. And in this manner you may go over a whole Corn-Field or other Champain Ground, which will afford both Pleasure, and Profit.20

CHAP. XVIII.
Of the Sparrow-Net, and its use.

THe Sparrow-Net is an Exercise used after Sun Set, and before Sun Rising, being the 30 times after the Birds go to Roost; and before their stiring in the Morning.

The Engine or Sparrow-Net is to be thus made, first have a long Pole much like a Hawks Pole, and at the upper end must be fastned strongly either with one, two, or more Grains, a small square cross piece of Wood like to the Head of an ordinary Hay Rake, but much larger for length and size, and of a little longer Square, according to the Fashion of this following Figure. 40

[figure]

Then make another Staff like unto this, but not above a third Part in length, and joyn it to the longer with a strong small Cord, so loosely that at pleasure it may fall too and fro from the longer Cross-Staff; and when both the Cross-Staves meet together, they may be both of one equal Length and Height, and joyn together without any difference, for otherwise they will be out of order; and so be ineffectual.

The Form and manner of the Second Cross-Staff.
[figure]

THese two Cross-Staves being thus joyned fit to meet together, fix both to the one and the other a large and wide Pur-Net, having that Liberty at the top, that the Cross-Staves may fall and part the one from the other a pretty distance; and the lower end of the Net must be streight and narrow, and made fast to the same Hole in the lower Cross-Staff, to which the shorter Cross-Staff was before fastned; then take two small Cords, or Lines, which must be fastned with knots to each of the shorter Cross-Staves, passing through the two Holes, and so through the Holes of the 50 lower Cross-Staff, through which they may go and come at Pleasure; and then shall the two ends of the Wards be tyed on a knot together, at such an even Distance, that the shorter Staff may fall at pleasure from the lower as far as is convenient, or the wideness of the Net permit; and then a­nother single Ward being made fast to that last knot of the two Cords (which single Ward al­ways carry in your right Hand) draw the Cross-Staves close together, and close up the Net as 60 you find occasion; and make with it the Staves and Net fly open, and widen as the place requires where you are to set it.

The Form and Manner of the Sparrow-Net, as it is fixed together.
[figure]

THis Sparrow-Net is to be used Early in the Morning, or Late at Night as before No­ted, and must be set, or fixed against the Eaves of Houses, Barns, Dovehouses and such like places, as also against Stacks of Corn or Hay; and if they were thatcht it were the better, and being set close against them to knock and thrust the Cross-Staves close against the same, making a noise to force them to fly out into the Net, and immediately draw the long single Line, and shut up the Cross-Staves close; and so take out the Birds.

The chief Benefit of this Net is either to de­stroy the Sparrows that lye about your Yards, Orchards, and Fields, devouring the Corn and spoiling the Fruit, or for the Mewing of Hawks, or getting such as are Weak and Sick into Strength; for with this Net you may take Morning and E­vening such quantities as are sufficient to give them warm to your Hawks, which is a great Nourishment, and makes them Mew faster; or if for a weak Person, enough to make some Broath.

CHAP. XIX.
How to take Wild Fowl with a Net,60 called a Crow-Net.

THere is an Invention for taking wild Fowl in Winter with the Crow-Net, which may be used in the Day time. It is made of dou­ble Twisted Thread, or fine Packthread; the Meshes should be two Inches wide, the length a­bout ten Yards, and three in depth; It must be verged on the sides with good strong Cord, and extended out very stiff upon long Poles made for that purpose.

When you are on the place you intend to spread your Net, open it, and lay it out at its full Length and Breadth; then fasten the lower end of the Net all along on the Ground, so as only 10 to move it up and down. The upper end of the Net should stand extended on the long Cord, the further end thereof being Staked fast to the Earth by a strong Cord about five Yards distant from the Net, which Cord place in an even Line with the lower edge of the Net; the other End of the Cord must be at least twenty five Yards, to reach unto some Natural or Artificial Shelter, by the help of which you may lye con­cealed from the Fowl, otherwise you can expect 20 no good Success.

Your Net must be in that exact order, that it may give way to play on the Fowl upon the least pull of your Cord, which do smartly lest the Fowl be too quick for you.

This Device may be used for Pigeons, Crows, or the like, in Corn-fields newly Sown; as also in Stubble-fields, provided the Stubble conceal the Net from the Fowl.

It may also be used for small Birds, as Barn-Doors; 30 but then lay for them some Train of Corn or Chaff, to entice them to the Net, lying con­cealed.

This Crow-Net may also be spread to great pleasure and profit in the Mornings and Even­ings, where you know their Haunts are; at 40 which times in hard Weather Fowl use to fly in great flocks to and from the Land, with and against the Wind; and then they fly close to the Ground in open Countries and low Lands, which generally are not full of Inclosures; and when they are within reach of your Net, let go, and it riseth over them, and brings them back to the Ground with a notable Blow.

CHAP. XX.
50 Of the Day-Net, for taking of Birds.

THis Day-Net is generally used for taking such small Birds as play in the Air, and will stoop either to Stale, Prey, Gig, or the like, as Larks, Lennets, Buntins, &c.

The Season of the Year to use this Net is 60 from August to November, and the best time is very Early in the Morning; and by the way ob­serve, that the milder the Air, and the brighter the Sun is, the better will your Sport be, and of longer continuance.

As to the Placce where to lay your Net, let it be Plain and Champain, either on short Stub­bles, green Lays, or flat Meadows, near Corn-fields, [Page 146] and something remote from Towns or Villages; be sure let your Net lye close to the Ground, lest the Birds creep out, and make their e­scapes.

The fashion of this Net appears by the fol­lowing Figure; and 'tis made of fine Packthread, with a small Mesh, not exceeding half an Inch square; the length must be three Fathom, and the breadth but one; the shape is like the Crow-Net, and must be verged about after the same 10 manner with a small, but strong Cord, and the two ends extended upon two small long Poles, suitable to the breadth of the Net, with four Stakes, Tail-Strings, and Drawing-Lines.

This Net is composed of two, but are both of one length, breadth and fashion, and are to be laid opposite to each other, so close and even, that when they are drawn and pulled over, the Sides must meet and touch each other.

This Net Stake down with strong Stakes very 20 stiff on their Lines, to the end you may with a nimble Twitch cast them too and fro at pleasure. Then fasten your Drawing-Cords, or Hand-Lines, (which must be at the least a Dozen, and each two Yards long) to the upper end of the fore­most Staves, and so extend them of such a rea­sonable streightness, as with little strength they may raise up the Nets, and cast them over.

When your Nets are thus laid, place your Gigs or playing Wantons about twenty or thirty Paces 30 beyond, and as much on this side your Nets. These Gigs must be fastned to the Tops of long Poles and turned into the Wind, so as they may play and make a noise therein.

These Gigs are certain Toys made of long Goose-feathers, like Shettle-cocks, and with little small Tunnels of Wood runing in broad and flat Swan Quills made round like a small Hoop, and so with longer Strings fastned to the Pole, will with any small Wind or Air move after such a 40 manner, that Birds will come in great flocks to wonder and play about them. The following Figure sheweth the same.

Your Gigs being placed, then place your Stale (which is a small Stake of Wood to prick down into the Earth) having in it a Mortice-Hole, in which a small, long and slender piece of Wood about two Foot long is so fastned, that it may move up and down at pleasure; and to this longer Stick fasten a small Line, which runing 50 through a Hole in the aforesaid Stake, and so coming up to the place where you sit, you may by drawing the Line up and down with your Right-hand, raise up the longer Stick from the Ground, as you see occasion.

To this longer Stick fasten a live Lark, or such like Bird, which with the Line making it to stir up and down by your pulling, will entice the Birds to come to your Net, and so are taken.60

There is another Stale, or Inticement, to draw on these Birds, which is called a Looking-Glass, and that is a round Stake of Wood as big as a Mans Arm, and made very sharp at the lower end to thrust it into the Earth. It is made very hollow in the upper part above five Fingers deep, into which hollowness is placed a Three-square Piece of Wood about twelve Inches long, and each Square two Inches broad, lying upon the Top of the Stake, and going with a foot into the hollowness; which said foot must have a great Knob at the Top, and another at the Bottom, with a deep slenderness between; to which slenderness fasten a small Packthread, which running through a Hole in the side of the Stake, must come up to the Seat where you sit. The Three-square Piece of Wood, that lies on the Top of the Stake, must be made of such a true poyz and eveness, and the foot in the Socket so smooth and round, that upon the least touch it will twerle and turn round, winding the Pack­thread so many times about it, which being sud­denly drawn, and as suddenly let go again, will keep the Engine in a constant round Motion. Thus done, fasten with Glew upon the upper­most flat Squares of the Three-square Piece, about twenty small Pieces of Looking-Glass, and paint all the Square Wood between them of a light and lively Red, which in the continual Motion will give such a reflexion, that the Birds will play about it to admiration until they are ta­ken.

Both this and the other Stale are to be placed in the midst between the two Nets, and about two or three foot distance from each other, so that in the falling of the Nets the Cords may not touch or annoy them; neither must they stand one before or after another, the Glass be­ing kept in a continual Motion, and the Bird very oft fluttering.

When you have thus placed your Nets, your Gigs and Stales, go to the further end of the long drawing Lines, and Stale-Lines; and having placed your self, lay the main drawing Line over­thwart your Thigh, and with your Right-hand always draw the Glass-Line, and with your Left pull the Stale-Line to shew the Bird; and when you perceive the Birds to begin to play near and about your Nets and Stales, then pull over the Net with both Hands with a quick, but not too hasty Motion, for that spoils your Sport.

Always remember to lay behind you where you sit, all the square Instruments and Imple­ments to be used, as the Stakes, Poles, Lines, Packthread, Knitting-Pin and Needle, your Bag with Stales, a Mallet to knock in the Stakes, and a small sized Hatchet to sharpen or make new Stakes upon occasion; and lastly, be sure that the first half Dozen of Birds you take be pre­served alive for Stales, for you must not be un­provided therewith upon no account.

Having fully treated of the Day-Net, this ensuing Figure gives you the full demonstration and proportion thereof, being a Net commonly used by all Bird-Men.

[Page 147]

[figure]

10 For Explanation of this Figure, observe the several Letters which denote the Parts.

A sheweth the Bodies of the main Net, and how they ought to be laid.

B the Tail-Lines, or hinder Lines, Staked to the Earth. 20

C, the fore Lines also Staked to the Earth D, the Knitting-Needle. E, the Bird Stale. F, the Looking-Glass Stale. G, the Line that draws the Bird Stale. H, the Line that draws the Glass Stale. I, the Drawing double Lines of the Nets, which pulls them over. K, the Stakes that Stake down the four Nether Points of the Net, and the two Tail-Lines. L, the Stakes that Stake down the fore Lines. M, the single Line with the Wooden-Button, to pull the Net over with. N, the 30 Stake that Stakes down the single Line, and where the Man should sit. O, the Wooden-Mallet. P, the Hatchet: And Q, the Gig.

And thus much for the Day-Net.

How to take Larks with a Looking-Glass and Clap-Nets, also with a Draught-Net, &c.40

I Have observed two or three ways purposely for the taking of Larks; the first shall be with a Looking-Glass, called a Doring or Da­ring,

I shall not trouble you with Instructions what Bag you shall use for the carrying the many little Implements used in this Sport, leaving it to your discretion; yet in place more convenient I shall give you two or three Forms which are most useful: Neither shall I trouble you with Instructi­ons 50 how to make the Net, vvhich may be bought at most Shops that fell Nets; but my business shall be to give you a full description of the thing it self.

You must provide four Sticks very strait and light; about the bigness of a Pike, two of which should be four Foot nine Inches long, the other two five Foot long; they should be all Notched at the Ends, as it is in those Sticks marked with the little a and b; at the End b fasten on one 60 Side a Stick of about a Foot long, of the same bigness with the other four Sticks, and on the other side a small Peg of Wood marked A, three Inches long. Then provide four other Sticks, each a Foot long, as the Letter f; each must have a Cord nine Foot long, fastned at the bigger End of them, as e, f; every of these Cords must have a Buckle at the End e, for the commodious fast­ning them to the respective Sticks when you go about to spread your Net. This following Figure represents it.

[figure]

The next thing to be provided is a Cord a, k h, g, which must have two Branches a, k, one of them must be nine Foot and an half long, the other ten Foot, with a Buckle at each End; the rest of the Cord from h to g, must be between 22 or 24 Yards long.

All these Cords, as well the Long ones as those with the Sticks, should be strong twisted, about the bigness of ones little Finger.

The next thing to be provided is a Staff m, n, about four Foot long, Pointed at the End m, and at the end n fasten a little Ball of Wood, for the convenient carrying of those many Necessaries in some Sack or Wallet. You must have a small [Page 148] Spade of Iron, to level the Ground as you see occasion. Also have two small Rods like that marked l, m, n, o, each eighteen Inches long, ha­ving a great End l, and thereunto a small Stick fixed, as p, with a Packthread near the End of the said Rod; and about the Letter m, being some nine Inches from it, tye another Packthread with two Ends, each hanging clear a Foot long; at each End tye a little Piked Stick, as q, r; At the smal­ler End of the said Rod tye a Packthread with 10 four Doubles, which must form two Loops, as o, which tye at the Legs of some Larks. You must also have two small Reels, as F, G, by the help of which you may make the Larks fly as you have occasion The last thing you are to prepare is a Looking-Glass, according to these following Fi­gures.

[figure]

Take a piece of Wood about an Inch and an half thick, and cut it like a Bone, but so as there may not be above nine Inches space between the two Ends a and c, and let it have its full thick­ness at the bottom, to the end it may receive into it that false Piece marked 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, in which the Figure 6 is the lowest, and the up­per 40 3 is but half an Inch large; the five Cor­ners 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, must be let in, to receive as many pieces of Looking-Glass.

In the middle of the said Piece of Wood, in the Bottom or Under part thereof, by the Letter b, make a Hole to receive a little Peg of Wood, as l, j, b, six Inches long, and about the bigness of ones Finger, Pointed at l, and a little Hole in the Middle j. You must likewise have another Piece of Wood n, m, o, q, a Foot long, and about 50 two Inches Square, sharpned at the End q. Make a little Ingraving in it at o, about two Inches high, and one Inch and an half broad; then Bore or Piece a Hole into the said Piece above the End n to receive the Peg r, which must come down an Inch into the Hole o, and so turn easily about.

When it is thus fixed, put a small Line, into the Hole, j and your Glass is finished. You must place it between the two Nets near the middle of them, as the letter j, and carry the Line to the 60 Hedge (of which hereafter) so that pulling the Line you may make the Looking-Glass play in and out as Children do a Whirlegig made of an Apple drawn throught a Net.

Always keep it turning that the twinkling of the Glass against the Sun may provoke the Larks to come to view it.

The true season for this Sport is from Septem­ber to March, especially in cold, clear and Sun­shiny Weather. When you intend to pitch your Nets, be sure to have the Wind either in front or behind your Nets, lest if it be on either side it hinders the playing of your Nets. Close some open place, and let it be remote from Trees or Hedges, at least an hundred Paces. The Ground being clear from all Stones and Rubbish, spread your Net in the manner described by the Figure, viz. The longest Sticks fastned to that part of the Net which is largest, as for Example in the Figure, that on your Right Hand is bigger than the o­ther. You must drive the Peg c into the Ground, and pass the end a, of the Stick into the Buckle of one of the Cords of the Net, and the Peg d in­to the other Loop of the same End. Also do the same with the other Stick at the End e, l. But be­fore you drive your Peg into the Ground strain 2 the Cord c, t, as much as you can; then take two of the Sticks as f, e, whereof one hath a Cord Nine Foot and an half long, and the other half a Foot less. Put the Knot e, of the longest Cord about the end of the farther Stick, and then retiring drive your Peg f into the Ground just opposite to the two little Pegs c, t, and then coming to the other end past your Stick a, into one of the shorter Cords, and so drive your Peg just with the others in a direct Line as c, t, f, that your Cord a, e, of 30 the Net may be throughly strained.

Having thus directed you to set one Net, your own Judgment will lead you to do the like with the other; only observe so to place them that when they are drawn, one may clap about half a Foot over the other.

The next thing to be done, take the Grand Cord which is to make your Net play, and place the longer Branch [...] a, about the end of the Stick a, and the other Branch K, about the Stick K; then tie the Knot h, so that it may rest in the middle, and cary the end to your Lodge; strain it a little, and then fasten it with a Peg A, and about B, make some kind of Hold-fast for the better strain­ing it, and that it may not slip again through your Hands, and just even with the said Hold-fast make two Holes D, E, in the Ground to thrust a­gainst with your Heels.

Your Lodge must be made of Boughs in such manner that you may have a full and clear view on your Nets before, and it should be covered over head, nor be very high, that you may have a prospect on all Birds coming and going.

The last thing is the placing your Calls (for so are the live Larks called); you see by the Figure in what place you are to set them; set your little Stick p in the first place, and let the upper part be about sixe Inches out of the Ground, then place the two others q, r, on the right, and the other on the left, just at m, of the Rod, where the Cord of the said Pegs is fixed. Then tie the end of one of the Packthreads of one of the Reels about three or four Inches from m near the place marked n, and then carry your Reel to the letter F, the like you must do, with the other Rod tied at the end o, and at equal distances tie the Call-Larks by the Feet, so that when you see any Birds near you, 'tis but twitching your Cords, [Page 149] and you force the Larks to mount a little, that thereby those others may take notice of them; when they are within your distance pull your main Cord and your Net flies up, and claps over them.

They that have observed any great Flight of Larks towards Evening, may take many of them by the help of a large Drag-Net, the description whereof together with its use is treated of in the Eighth Chapter under the Head of the Spread-Net, 10 or Drag-Net; only for Larks the Meshes must not be above an Inch Square, and your Net should be large▪ You need no other directions.

CHAP. XXI.20
Instructions and Directions touching Cock-Roads for the taking of Wood-Cocks, and to supply the defect of a Tree in a convenient place for a Cock-Road.30

COck-Roads are easily made and being once done cost nothing the preserving, yeilding a considerable Profit as well as Pleasure, when in an Evening either by ones self, or his Servant (if he be trusty, and that you live near no great Mar­kets,) you may perhaps take Three or Four Brace, and as many in the Morning of excellent Wood-Cocks; and one so taken is worth two that are Shot.

The Nature of the Wood-Cock is to lie close 40 all day under some Hedge, or near the Roots of Old Trees, picking for Worms under dry Leaves, nor will he stir unless some accident of noise spring him up, being of a fearful Nature, and doth not see well his Way before him in the Morning ear­ly: and towards the Evening they use to take Wing that they may get to Water (for they seldome meet with any but at those times) and then they would hardly stir, did not meer Thirst compel them. When they fly 'tis generally low, to the 50 end they may not be so well discovered, and when they find any Through-fare through any Wood or Range of Trees they use to venter through. In such places therefore it is that you ought to make your Cock-Roads, and plant your Cock-Nets, according to the Following Figure. 60

[figure]

Supposing then that your Range of Wood be about Thirty Paces long, then cut a Walk through it, near about the middle, about Thirty six, or Forty Foot broad, which must be directly streight with all the Shrubs, and Vnder-Wood carried a­way; likewise all the Boughs that hang over the said Walk must be cut off; then choose out two Trees opposite to each other, as it is represented in the said Figure marked A, B, and prune, or cut off all the Front Boughs to make way for the Net to hang and play.

The next thing is to provide two strong Legs of Wood, which open or cleave at the biggest ends, as marked C, D, the middle parts tie fast unto some Boughs of the Tree, as the letters E, F, di­rect, and let the Tops hang over, as G, H, repre­sent; you should always have in readiness good store of Pullies or Buckles, made of Glass, Box, Brass, or the like, according to the Form de­signed by the Figure, which should be about the bigness of a Mans Finger, and fasten one at

[figure]

each end of the Perches, or Legs G, H, having first tied on your Pullies about the two Branches marked 3, a certain Cord of the thickness of ones little Finger, and then tie another Knot on the said Cord about the distance of a Hands breadth from the first Knot marked 4, and so let the two ends of the Cord hang down about a Foot long, that therewithal you may fasten them to the Pul­lies which are at the ends of the two Pearches or Legs, as is marked by I, L, close to the Notches G, H, then clap into each Pully a small Packthred, the end of each should reach to the Foot of the Trees, that by the help of them you may draw up two stronger Cords into the said Pullies where you hang the Net, and not be forced always to climb up into the Tree.

[Page 150] These latter you may let hang, always provi­ded you live by honest Neighbours.

The last thing to be provided is a Stand to lie concealed, about half a dozen Boughs pitched up together may serve for that purpose, with a storng Crooked Stake forced into the Ground just by the Stand, whereon fasten the Lines of the Net when it is drawn up. Remember to tie a Stone to the end of each of the two Cords of a­bout four or five pound weight a piece, that when 10 you let go, the weight of the Stones may force down the Net with a strong fall, and pull up both the Stones, and the upper part of the Net close to the Pullies I, L, the Stones are marked M, N, and the Figure represents the whole Net ready for use. The ends of both Lines must be drawn to your Lodge or Stand, and wound twice or thrice about the Crooked Stake to prevent the falling of the Net, until you think fit, that is, un­til some Game Flyeth against the Net. Some­times 20 it so falls out, that a Covey of Partridges have been taken by this Invention, and now and then a Hare; so that you should be sure to look out diligently against all occasions.

If any Beast come Thwart you, let them pass under your Net, about five or six Foot, then make a noise with a shout, and so let go: The Beast at the first noise will retire back, and so be­come ensnared. To be sure if you let go whilst he is just under the Net, he will either spring for­wards or back-wards, and not be taken, but most 30 likely he will retire back.

If often happens that a Man perceives a great Through-fare of Birds between some Coppices or Timber-Woods over a certain piece of Ground, where he wanteth the conveniency of a Good Tree to oppose some other, which possibly stands according to his mind; but whether he wants one or two, if he find the place likely, and that in a probability it will quit his cost, let him then take one or two young Trees fit for the purpose, and plant them deep in the Ground, that they may 40 stand all Weathers.

To take WOOD-COCKS by Nets in high Woods by driving them into Nets.

YOur Net must be like your Rabet Hayes, but not so strong, and about Twenty Fa­thom long; and of these you should have Two or 50 Three.

Being provided with Nets, and having the as­sistance of five or six to go into the Wood with you, which should be at the least Seven or Eight Years growth (for the elder the better) then go into some part thereof, about the middle, if it be not to large, and Pitch your Nets along as you do for Rabets (but one joyning to the other) slope­wise, hanging over that way which you design to drive the Cocks. You may make room for the 60 Nets, if there be no Paths, by splashing away the Shrub-Wood. Your Nets being thus fixed, let your company go to the end of the Wood at about Ten Rod asunder; and having Sticks in their Hands, make a noise, as also use your Voyces as if you were driving Cattle along, and so go forward and forward till you come to the place where your Nets are set, and you will not fayl to catch those that are in that part of the Wood.

Then when that part of the Wood is thus drove, turn your Nets slopewise to the other side, and go to the other end, observing the aforesaid Di­rections.

This way you may use to take them at any time of the Day, with great ease and pleasure.

CHAP. XXII.
Several Sorts of Strings, Springes. Engines, &c. for the taking of Fowls and Birds, either on Hed­ges, Trees, or on the Ground.

THere are several Devices for the taking of Fowl, and Birds, both great and small; and that either those peculiar to the Water or Land, or for both; and that on Hedges, Boughs, Trees, or on the Ground. The first way I shall represent is to take Fowl with Strings or Lines.

Let the Strings or Lines be made of long small Cord, knotted here and there, and conteyning in length as many Fathoms, as the places, or Haunts where you are to lay them require. These ate of great use for the taking of all sorts of large Wild-Fowl, as also for the Plovers of both kinds.

When you shall use these Strings, they must be well Limed with the strongest Bird-Lime; then coming to their Haunts, if it be for the E­vening Flight, then before Sun-Set; if for the Morning Flight, then at least two Hours before Day; and having a burthen of small Sticks about two Foot long, sharpned at the lower end, and with a little Fork at the upper end, let them be pricked into the Ground in even Rows, all over the place of their Haunt, one Row distant from another about a Yard or two, and one Stick siding another within Four or Five Yards as they may conveniently bear up the String; and let them be prick't a little slauntwise, so as they may be with­in a Foot and an half of the Ground. Then shall these limed Strings be drawn and laid upon the Forks some Rows higher than others, and higher in one place than in another, like the Waves of the Water, till every Row be filled, and the Haunt covered all over. Then fasten the ends with a Sliping Loop in such wise, that upon any Violent strain the whole String may loosen, and lap a­bout any thing that toucheth it, and by this In­vention great store of Fowl, especially Plovers, may be taken by reason of the great Flocks they come in; and they are commonly taken at their coming to the Ground; whose Nature is to swoop close to the Ground for a pretty distance before they light, and so falling amongst the Strings, are taken. You need not be constantly at Watch; for being entangled they can't loosen themselves. When you have done your sport [Page 151] lay them up for another time, only new daubing them with fresh Bird-Lime.

You may make use of these Strings or Lines for the taking Water-Fowl, and then use the best and strongest Water Bird Lime, such as before shewed you. These Strings must be laid over the Rivers, Ponds, or Plashes of Water where you de­sign to take any, which must be in such places where their Haunts are, and let the said Strings almost touch the Water, and as thick laid as be­fore 10 noted for Land Fowl. And be sure to take this Caution, not to use these Strings in Moonshine-nights; For the Shadow of the Lines will create a jealousy in the Fowl and so frustrate your Sport.

Of the great and lesser Springes.

SPringes are thus made, and thus to be ac­commodated; 20 First, well knowing the Fowls Haunts, and the places where the Flocks or Cou­ples of great Fowl do usually feed in the Morn­ings or Evenings, and observing well the Fur­rows and Water-Tracts, where they usually stalk and paddle for Worms, Flot-Grass, Roots, and such like things on which they feed; and be sure to observe where several Furrows or Water-Drains meet into one, and after a small course divide themselves again into other Parts or Branches; 30 this middle part being the deepest, and as it were feeding the rest; and also observe which is most padled, and fittest for them to wade in, and such are the most likelyest places for your purpose. Then take small and short Sticks, and prick them cross-wise overthwart all the other Passages, one Stick within about half an Inch of each other making as it were a kind of Fence to guard every way but one, which you would have the Fowl to pass.40

All Ways except one being thus hemmed out, take a good stiff Stick cut flat on one side, and pricking both Ends into the Water, make the Upper part of the Flat-side of the Stick to touch the Water, and no more; Then make a Bow of small Hazel or Willow in the fashion of a Pear, broad and round at one end, and narrow at the other, and at least a foot long, and five or six Inches wide, and at the narrow End a little small Nick or Dent; then take a good stiff young grown Plant of Hazel, Elm, or Withew, 50 being Rushy grown, and clean without Knots, three or four Inches about at the Bottom, and about an Inch at the Top; and having made the Bottom-end sharp, fasten at the Top a very strong Loop of about an hundred Horse-hairs, plaited very fast together with strong Packthread, and made so smooth and plyable to slip and run at pleasure; and this Loop shall be of the just quantity of the Hoop made Pear-wise, as 60 before mentioned; Then hard by this Loop with strong Horse-hair, within an Inch and an half of the end of the Plant fasten a little broad but thin Tricker, made sharp and equal at both Ends

[figure]

after this proporti­on. And then the bigger sharp End of the Plant being thrust and fixed into the Ground close by the Edge of the Water, the smallest End with the Loop and the Tricker shall be brought down to the first Bridge, and then the Hoop made Pear-wise being laid on the Bridge, one End of the Tricker shall be set upon the Nick of the Hoop, and the other end against a Nick made on the small End of the Plate, which by the violence and bend of the Plant shall make them stick and hold together until the Hoop be moved: This done, the Loop shall be laid upon the Hoop in such fashion as the Hoop is propor­tioned; then from each side of the Hoop prick little Sticks, as aforesaid, as it were making an impaled Pathway to the Hoop; and as you go farther and farther from the Hoop or Spring, so shall you widen the Way, that the Fowl may be entred a good way in before they perceive the Fence. The first Entrance being about the wide­ness of an indifferent Furrow, so that any Fowl falling, they may be enticed to go and wade upon the same, where they shall no sooner touch the Spring with their Head, Foot, or Feathers, but they shall be taken; and according to the strength of the Plant you may take any Fowl both great or small.

To take small Fowl with the Engine.

FOr the taking smaller Fowl with this En­gine, as the Snipe, Woodcock, Pewit, or the like, that useth to feed in Wet and Marshy Grounds, and amongst Water-furrows or Rillings, from thence sucking the Fatness of the Soil, the De­vice and Engine is the same without alteration; only it may be of much less strength and sub­stance, according to the Fowl it is set for, especi­ally the Sweeper or Main Plant, which as before is prescribed to be of Hazel, Elm, or Withew; or so in this case may be of Willow, Sallow, or strong grown Osier, or any yielding Plant that will bend, and come again to its own straitness. And this kind of Engine is only for the Winter Season, when much Wet is on the Ground: But if there happen any great Frosts, so that you are deprived of the Waters, then search out where these standing Waters have any descents or small Passages, so as by the swift Current the Water is not frozen, and there set your Springes, and the greater the Frost is, the apter are they to be taken.

Directions for making the Bramble-Net, Termed by some the Hallier.

THe Form of this Net is Represented in one or more of the foregoing Prints. Those that are for Pheasants are larger than those for Par­tridges; and those for Partridges larger than those for Quails, Coots, and the like. The manner of making them is one and the same. Your great 10 Meshes must be four Square, those of the least size are three or four Inches Square, and those of the biggest are five; in Depth they should not have above three or four Meshes; as for the length you may enlarge them as you think fit, but the shortest are usually eighteen Foot.

If you intend to have your Net of four Meshes deep, make it of eight, for as much as it is to be doubled over with another Net, likewise be­tween the said Doublings; the Inward Net must 20 be of five Threads neatly Twisted, with the Meshes two Inches Square made Lozengewise, with a neat Cord drawn through all the upper Meshes, and another through the lower, by which you may fasten it to the double Hallier.

In the last place fasten your Net unto certain small Sticks, about one Foot and a half, or two Foot long, and about the same distance from each other. Your inward Net must be both lon­ger and deeper than the outward, that it may 30 hang loose the better to Entangle the Game.

For Pheasants, both the one and the other should be made of strong double Twisted Thread, and for Partridges, Quails, and the like, of Silk.

CHAP. XXVI.
How to take Blackbirds; Feldi­vars,40 and the like Birds in Mysty Weather in Highways, and by the sides of Hedges.

IN Mysty Weather, Blackbirds, Thrushes, Feldivars, and such like Birds do generally fly by the sides 50 of Hedges, making no long Flights. For the taking them in the midst of their Flight do thus. Observe the Figure in Chapter XXV. and ac­cordingly prepare your Net about six Foot deep, and twenty Foot long, it is called the Cobweb-Net. Then get a Staff about six or seven Foot long, which must be a little slit at the small end D, and sharpned at the other end F, with which go along by the Hedge side, where you suppose there is Game; and having found some, pitch 60 your Net about twenty or thirty Paces from the place where they went in according to this directi­on. If there be any Tree about twelve or fifteen Foot from the Hedge side, or if it be in a way where there are two Hedges not above fifteen or twenty Foot asunder, then you need not make use of your Staff, otherwise you must.

Suppose it were in a Highway with Hedges on each side as E, I, for Example, then choose out some Bough about six or seven Foot high, which hangeth in towards the way as the Letter B; make a small cleft in it at A, and gently thrust thereinto the small wooden Wedge, which is tyed at the Packthread, runing through the upper part of your Net; and then do the very same on the o­ther side of the way, as F, I, so that your Net may hang as it were bent. Then fetch a Com­pass about at least thirty Paces beyond the place where you saw the Birds fly in; and when you come near, they will fly back by the Hedge side, and so come against your Net, which being slightly hung, will fall upon them, and so they are taken.

In case there be but one Hedge, and no op­posite Tree, then make use of your Stick.

CHAP. XXVII.
Divers necessary Observations touch­ing the Natures and Dispositions of Plovers, and other wild Fowl, with Directions to take them.

I shall begin with an Apology for the length and Curiosity of this Chapter, to the end, Industrious and Active Spirits may furnish others with fresh and Beneficial Advantages of the same kind.

Plovers use to fly in exceeding great Flocks to­gether, they generally come to us about Septem­ber, and leave us in or about March; In Frost and cold Weather they seek their Food on such Lands as lye near and adjoyning to the Sea. In Thaws and open Seasons they go higher into the Countrey, so that their whole labour is to rise and fall, as we say. They delight much to feed in Plough­ed Lands, especially if Sowed; and having fed they presently seek out for Water to wash their Beaks and Feet. When they sleep they do not Pearch on any thing, but Couch or sit on the Ground as Ducks or Geese; they only sleep in Calm Weather, otherwise they pass most part of the Night in runing up and down to seek for Worms, as they come out of the Ground; and then they al­ways make a little cry purposely to keep close together, for at day break they all unite into one Body, and so depart; if in their Flight they chance to espy any others on the Ground, they usually call them to them, and if they refuse to go, they make a stay expecting some Booty. There are many other Fowl that accompany with them, as Lapwings, Teal, and the like.

They are most easy to be taken when not inter­mixed with other Fowl. Especially in October, soon after their first coming, as being unacquainted with the Instruments of their Ruine; also in March they are easily taken, for then they begin to Cou­ple. It is not good to set your Nets for them in long Frosts, and continued cold Seasons, but in­termixed [Page 155] with Weathers; of all Winds the North-west is the worst to take them; and as you ought not to set your Nets in some Winds, so ought you exactly to place your Net according to the Wind, as hereafter shall be directed.

All Sea Fowl fly against the Wind, when ever they design to rest on the Land, therefore ob­serve to fix your Nets according, to play with the Wind.

This following Figure doth represent the man­ner 10 how to set your Nets when the Wind is Ea­sterly, that they may play Westerly, that so the Birds may be taken flying cross the Net, not long­ways with it; nor are you tyed exactly to observe the Situation of the Wind, in regard sometimes the place where you intend to pitch will not bear it, but the nearer you come to it, so much the better.

[figure]

20

Several necessary Instruments to be used in ta­king Plovers.

THere are many little necessary things to be used in taking Plovers; I have therefore represented the Forms of them in a Figure alto­gether, as followeth.

[figure]

30 In the first place you must be provided with a Net or two, which are called Leap-Nets, the Meshes are Lozengwise and about two Inches Square. The Net should be about two Fathom long, and eigh­ty Meshes deep; I shall not trouble you with the way of making it, although it be of great use in Fowling, it being an Art it self, and to be bought at the Shops that sell Nets. Secondly, you must have two Staves marked 1, 2, about the big­ness of a Mans Arm, the one about nine Foot 40 long, and the other about ten, and they must be a little Notched in at the smaller ends. Thirdly, you must have two pieces of some Pipestave, as marked 3, a Foot long, and three Inches broad, pointed at one end. Fourthly, you must have a couple of Staves about the bigness of ones Thumb, ten or twelve Inches long, and pointed at 50 one end, as that marked No. 4. Fifthly, get three other pieces of Wood No. 5. each two Foot long, and about the bigness of a Pitchfork, sharpned at one end. Sixthly, you must be provided with a small Hatchet, marked No. 6, the sharp side not above three Inches deep, with a strong Head to beat in the Staves. Seventhly, you must have a good Knife, as marked No. 7. Eightly a Stick in the Fashion of a Billiard Stick, as No. 8. repre­sents, which must be two Foot long from a to b, ending in a point at a, the other end b, c, must be a Foot long bending; and it must be cut in three Angles at the Letter c. Ninthly, have a 60 Pipe or Whittle to call the Plovers, as No. 9. re­presents; it may be made of the Thigh Bone of a Goat, or a large Sheep, and cut off at both ends about three Inches long, at the end h fill it with Wax into the opening e, then make the hole d plain under the Bone, that the Wind may come in; Then make a Hole at the middle f, just above big enough to receive a small Goosquil, and ano­ther [Page 156] a pretty deal bigger, to give it the clearer Sound; and likewise that you may thereby hang it about your Neck, pierce a small Hole at h, to receive a Packthread. Tenthly, have a small Pannier, or Basket as No. 10. big enough to hold three or four live Lapwings, with a Hole at the top to put them in. In the Eleventh place have three or four Reels, such as Gardiners use to Line out Borders and Walks, for the Winding up your Lines, as is Represented in the eleventh Fi­gure. 10 Twelfthly, have a Commodious Sack or Wallet to carry your things according to No. 12. Thirteenthly have another sort of Pipe, represen­ted by No. 13. being nothing but a piece of Wood, lesser than ones little Finger, and three Inches long, cleft at the end s, unto the middle T, where­in six a Bay Leaf to imitate the Cry of Lapwings. Fourteenthly have two Rods according to No. 14, each two Foot and a half long, and strait, light and slender, at the bigger end 5, you must fa­sten 20 a Peg as marked 6, three or four Inches long, and pretty close to the Rod; at the middle 2 that is nearer the great end, tye a couple of Pack­threads each two Foot long, with a Peg at each end, as 3 and 4, of the same size with the former No. 6. At the small end of the Rod j, fasten a slen­der Packthread, with a Double at the end to clap about the Body of a Lapwing; and the other end which is single must be a good deal longer, to fa­sten the Tail of the Bird. And in the last place 30 have a Holm Stick, according to No. 15. about four or five Foot long, indifferent strong, at the great end fasten two Pegs at each side, one as 10 and 11, about the bigness of ones little Finger, and six Inches long; about a Foot and a half from thence fasten two Packthreads, each two Foot and a half long, with a Peg at each end, about the same size with the former, marked 13 and 14. These are the main Implements to be used; now follows to apply them to use.40

Instructions h [...]w, when and where to pitch your Nets for the taking of Plovers, and the like.

THe best place to pitch for Plovers and such like Fowl, is in large common Fields of Green Corn, where there are neither Trees nor Hedges, at least within three or four hundred Paces of the place where you design to work. If 50 there be any Water in the place, endeavour to pitch near it, for Plovers delight therein to cleanse their B [...]ks and Feet after they have dirted them with turning the Earth up and down for Seed or Worms. You must be careful that the Plot where you pitch, be a little lower than your Hedge, or at most equal with it, for higher it must not be. This following Figure sheweth the manner of contriving your Plot of Ground.

[figure]

60

Suppose the place where you design to pitch, reach from A to B, and the distance between the Platform, and your Lodge from B to E; and that the Wind blow South, you must have a Pack­thread about fourteen or fifteen Foot long, and fasten it to a couple of Pegs A, B, which fasten in the Ground to line out the place for your Nets. Then take the Billiard Stick No. 8. in the forego­ing Figure, and beat the Earth with the Trian­gular end, as if you would cut, and so pass a­long that whole length of the Packthread, which is about twelve or fourteen Fathom, the exact length of your Net: And when your Border is made, then take away the Packthread, and take the shorter of the two Sticks No. 1, and place it at the bottom of the border at No. 1, and the bigger end of the said Stick must be at No. 8, not directly strait, but bending at least two Foot inwards, just as you see it drawn before you in the Figure. [Page 157] Then hold it fast with one Hand, and with one Finger of the other, or with the handle of your Knife Trace out the Form of its Position, that it may rest Imprinted in the Earth; then with your great Knife No. 7. cut along your Trace or Border of your said Stick, and with your Hatch­et No. 6, cut out the Earth between the two Tra­ces or Lines a, 1, 8, 0, begining at the End j, and finishing at 8 in such manner, that at the End j the Earth may be taken out but one Inch over,10 and at the End 8 four or five Inches large, that your Stick may be hid as it were in the said Gut­ter.

This being finished, carry the other Stick No. 1. (being the longer of the two) unto the other End of your long Border, and plant it in the self same fashion; then take your little Stick No. 3. which drive into the Ground at the end of your two Gutters, as 8 and 9, to hinder the two main Sticks from beating into the Ground with 20 the force of the Net. Your two Sticks No. 4. also drive into the Ground about half a foot from your Border at 1 and 3, a little inclining Inwards; the intent being to prevent your main Sticks from returning back when the Net is strained until the Cord be pulled: besides, should you place them Outwards upon the Lines 9, 6 and 8, 0, it were impossible to make your Net play; for then the more you strain the Cord, the closer would your main Sticks come under 30 your Sticks No. 4. then remove all the loose Earth, except an Handful or two, which lay on the two Ends 5 and 7, the better to raise up the other Ends of the main Sticks, and then your Platform is ready fixed.

Now in case you make two other Gutters, as 2, 8 and 4, 9. on the other side of the Border, opposite to your two first, then your Platform will serve for two contrary Winds, viz. North and South. I shall direct you how to dispose of the 40 remainder of your Vtensils, in turning back to the first Figure in this Chapter.

If you intend to take any Plovers, be on the place where your Platform is ready made with all your Implements early in the Morning; then place the main Sticks in the little Gutters, and take your Net on your left Shoulder, or Arm, and go towards the Lodge, which is about fifteen or sixteen fathom from your Platform, and there place the Buckle which is at the End of the Cord of your 50 Net, and so go backwards towards your Plat­form, letting the Cord trayl all along, and being at the Stake or strong Peg S, fasten thereto the Cord of the Pully T, so that the Pully be in a direct line with the two Pieces of Wood Q, o; then when you come to the form let your Net it self fall by degrees, and still retiring back­wards. When you are at the Peg behind, which is R, strain the Cord until it be right and strait, and then fix it to the said Peg that it may not 60 slip back.

I have also for the conveniency represented to you, with what menner of Knot it is that you should fasten your Cords on this occasion. Sup­posing that the Peg 7, be the Piece whereunto you pretend to fasten your Cord 2, 4, take it in one of your Hands at 1, and being over the Thread 2, to form the Buckle or Knot 5; which pass over the Peg 7; then make another Bow or Buckle, as 6, wherein the Thread 4 is passed under, and to clap this Bow over your Peg upon the Top of the other Bow; then strain the two ends 2 and 4, and your Knot will be compleat, and you must be very exact and ready at it.

When the End of the Cord of the Net is thus fastned, lift up your man Stick P, Q, and place the great End in the Gutter Q, drawing the Cord of your Net towards your Border, and force it into the Notch in the small end of your main Stick, and let some Body hold it there; But in case you have no help, lodge it in your Gutter under the Peg P, and drive the sharp End of the Billiard into the Ground upon it, to stay there until you go to the other main Stick N, o, and there fix your Cord into the Notch at the End M. It must be so straitned, that a great deal of strength may be used to get it into the Notch; then place your main Stick in the Gutter under the Peg N. Remove your Billiard from your main Stick V, Q, and force your Net into the Platform, so that it be hid under the Cord.

The next thing to direct you in is the placing your Call-Plovers and Artificial Lapwings, which must be disposed as you see the Cyphers 00000. In case the Wind be not directly East, but in­clined a little towards the South; then your first Pelt, or counterfeit Bird (which is nothing but the Skin of a Bird stuft with Chaff, or the like) marked 3, shall be placed half a foot from your Border, and about eight or nine foot from the End V, the rest you may range in such order as they are designed by the Figure, at about two foot distant from each other; whereas in case the Wind be North-East, place your Birds a good deal farther from the End V, that is to say, about six foot further; because Wild-fowl always fly against the Wind, and then as they pass over the Stales, or Artificial Birds, that is betwixt them and the hinder Stake R, it may so fall out that they may pass under the Cord; for that will be shorter by a third part when it is let loose, and by a moity, if the Wind be strong, which you must diligently observe when there is but little Wind stirring. You may place two thirds of the Birds behind your Net, and if it be strong, one third part is enough, the rest should be before, because Plovers will come where your Birds are.

As for Lapwings, they must not be mixed with your Plovers, but placed just by your Gutters, as the Letters g, g import.

The next thing you are to dispose is your Live Birds; if you intend to use two, drive them one before, and the other behind; if you have only one, place it behind in this manner: Force your little piked Staff-C into the Ground, which is tyed to the bigger End of the Rod, and then hold up the little End F, to see if it stand right with the Lodge, and if so, hold it a foot high whilst you stick the two Pegs A, B, into the Earth; then tye a live Lapwing unto it with the Packthread about its Legs which Packthread should be indifferent long, to the end the Lap­wing may not hurt it self; then put the Tail [Page 158] about the End of the Rod, and fasten it with another Packthread, and so taking one of the Reels, fasten the End of the Thread which is above the quarter part of the length of your Rod, to the place marked E; and the Reel to the Lodge. If you plant a couple of Lapwings, you must place the other in the same manner before your Platform.

Your Holm-stick must be placed about three or four fathom from the Border, and about six 10 foot beneath the last Pelts or Artificial Birds. To set it right in order do thus: Drive into the Ground the two Pegs marked at the great End M, in such manner as your Holm-stick may move like the Axeltree of a Cart between the two Wheels; take the little End X, and lift your Rod almost strait up, that it may be right with the Lodge, and then fasten your two Pegs H, j in the Ground: Then fasten the End of your Line to one of your Reels at the middle L of 20 your Rod, and carry the other end to your Lodge. The Holm-stick must be tyed at the End X of the Rod; your Holm-stick must be laid down close, and covered with some Boughs, Straw, or the like, that the Birds may not be affrighted at the sight thereof.

This Holm-stick is nothing but the two Wings of a Kite or Buzzard, which are tyed with two or three Hawks-bells at the End of the Rod for the purpose that shall be anon declared.30

Directions for preparing the Lodge, for those that take Plovers and the like Wild-fowl.

THe Lodge is to be thus made: Take five or six Boughs about three foot high, and stick them in the Ground like an Hedge; it must be open at the Top, that you may hear and see the Birds that pass near you.40

[figure]

The Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 represent it unto you, as also how you may (being a single Person) manage two Nets at the same time from one and the same Lodge. Your Seat must be of some Turf about a foot square, and three or four Inches thick, which put beneath the Cord at the place marked C, where your Cords cross each other, and where one may touch the Hold­fasts f, g, to strain the Nets. You must lay a good handful of Straw under the Cord upon the Turf, to prevent dirting the Cord, as well as spoil­ing the Turf; and you had need to have a good Armful in your Lodge; to keep you warm and dry as occasion requires. You must likewise cut two little Holes in the Ground to rest your feet when you strain your Cords, the Letters D, E denote the place where. The same things must be all observed, if you use but one Net. But he that will undertake to manage two Nets, had need to see first the manner of it, at least to ob­serve these following Directions.

You have been already fully instructed how to plant one single Net, which being done, Take a long Cord, represented by the pricked Line K, j, which at one End fasten to the Peg M, about two or three foot from the side of the Peg Y; the other End fasten to the Peg H, so that the part K of the Packthread may be distant between five or six fathom from the End of the Gutter O When the shorter of your two main Sticks is fixed, one End at K, and the other at Q, carry the bigger of them ten or twelve fathom distant; one End being set at j within half a foot of the Packthread, and the other towards L. Let them be stooped down, and then fix another Pack­thread, represented by the pointed Line S, T, which must be strained hard: Then vvith your Billiard-stick make your Border or Platform Q, P; then cut out your Gutters, and place your Pegs and Sticks as they are placed in the beginning of this Chapter, numbred 3 and 4, and placed in the former Net.

You may make this Form serve for two Winds, if you make the Gutters V, X, Z, R, just opposite to the others; and then place your main Sticks in them, turning about your Cords, and trans­plant your Lodge: As for Example, The fore­going Figure represents two Nets, which are set for a Westerly-Wind; Suppose the Wind should chop about and turn Easternly, you must then 50 first of all put the End of the Cord M to the Letter B, the strong Peg A to the little p, and the Stake behind H to the little m; the main Stick K to the Letter X, the other j to the Letter V, and your Net will be then set for the East-wind. You may likewise transpose the other Net by turning the Cord Y to the little a, and the strong Peg to the little o, and that Stake behind to the Letter N.

You must also turn about your main Stakes, 60 and make a low Seat at the Letter h, and dress up your Lodge there; the two pointed Lines a, h, j, n, and b, h, p, m, do fully demonstrate how the Nets should be placed vvhen the Wind is turning about. Your Birds both dead and alive must also be altered as you there see; and you must set two or three counterfeit Birds be­fore the first Border with a Lapwing or Call-Bird, [Page 159] and another behind the Platform, the rest of the Artificial Birds may be set before the Border P, Q, and the Holm Rod behind the last Net.

Instructions when and how to Call, also when and how to draw the Net for taking Plo­vers, &c.

YOur Implements being all disposed as before 10 directed, betake your self to your Lodge, having your Pipe hanging at your Neck, and when you espy any Game on the Wing, give them a Call, and make your Call Birds fly a turn or two ever and anon, as occasion requires; for the Game perceiving the Lapwings to stir and fly from place to place, and your other Birds to stand feeding as it were, will be decoyed thither in expectati­on of some Food. When they come near, be sure do not make your Birds to stir at all, for they would then soon perceive by the forceness of the Motion, that they were tyed; and for fear of being suprized themselves, they will fly away. Neither must you with your Pipe give them such loud Calls, as if at a remote distance; but les­sen your Notes by Degrees. I have thought fit to set down the said Notes.

The Natural Call for Plovers. [...]

The Call for Curlues. The He-Lapwing coming. The Female Lapwing. [...]

It is very difficult to imitate exactly the Notes, without good Observation and Practice, but as near as you can Call in the same Notes as you hear them as they pass by you; and be sure not to let fly your Net, though there were never so many of them, and that they were just at the Net, unless they come flying against the Wind. When you perceive they begin to descend, and that they come within eighteen or twenty Foot of the Platform, let go your Pipe, and lay both hands on your Cord, to let fly with all the force you 20 can, by giving it a smart pull towards you, just as you perceive the first of the Flock between the two Stakes, K, I. If they are about eight Foot high from the Ground, let them pass on, for they will wheel about and take another turn, nay sometimes they will pass by you eight or nine times before you will find them right for your purpose. You will find that most an end they will pitch a good way from your Net; if you per­ceive them so inclined, make some little noise 30 to prevent them, if however they take Ground, then get your Assistant to steal out at the back­side of your Lodge, and fetch a great compass behind the Plovers, and if you had for that pur­pose your Artificial Stalking Horse or Cow, it would be of great use. But for want thereof, let him go on all four, or at least stooping with his Head down, by which means he may by de­grees drive them from side to side, within ten or twelve Foot of the Border, at which time let 40 him throw up his Hat, and give a great Shout; upon which they will take Wing to fly over your Nets, at which Instance of time draw in your Cords very briskly, and take up all those that are under the Nets.

When all are gathered up, clear the place of all the loose Feathers that lye on the Ground, and then set your Net in its former State to take o­thers.

When you have two Nets Planted, and that a Flock come, do not presently draw, but let your Assistant fetch a compass and raise them, by which means you may be assured of them.

When you see a great Flock coming, your As­sistant must hold the Cord of your Holm-Rod, that is, the Kites Wings; and draw it just when you direct him, that is to say, when the first Birds of the Flock fly low, and are within about six Foot of the Form; for as soon as ever they perceive the Holm-Rod aloft, the last of the Flock will first pass on, and all of them come within a Foot of the Ground, so that you may take the greatest part of them, were they ten or fifteen Dozen, You must be sure not to stir the Holm-Rod, until the Birds be within seven or eight Foot of the Ground, lest they pass over the whole Form before they stoop to the Ground. And this is all I shall say as to this particular way of taking Plovers, which though difficult to observe, yet if expert in, is very profitable.

CHAP. XXVIII.
How to take Wild-Ducks with Nets, Hooks, Sliping knots and the like.

THey that would employ themselves in ta­king Ducks and Mallards with Nets, &c. should always have some wild ones reclaimed, and made same for that purpose; for the wild will never accompany themselves with those of the real tame Breed. Therefore be provided with at least a dozen of them, for fear of wanting any upon occasion, for they are often lost, and much subject to miscarry.

Never place your Nets but where you have at least a Foot of Water, nor much more, so that Marshes, Sands, Flats, overflown Meadows and the like, are proper for this Sport.

The Nets to use are the same with those used for Plovers, and plant them after the same man­ner, [Page 160] only these are set under Water, and you need no Border to conceal your Net; your Main Sticks should be of Iron, strong in proportion to their length; but if of Wood, fasten good heavy pieces of Lead all along your Net, at about a Foot distance on the sides of it, to sink it down into the Water, that the Ducks may not escape by Diving; and your Lodge should be so contrived as before directed for the Plovers. When all is ready, place Ducks (that is, she ones) in this man­ner; 10 tye two or three of them before your Net, and as many behind by the Legs, but so as they may swim up and down, eating such Grain, or Chipings as you shall throw to them for that pur­pose; The Drakes keep by you in your Lodge; When you perceive a Flock coming near you, let fly one of your Decoy Ducks, which will present­ly joyn with the Wild ones in expectation of his Mate, and not finding her there, he will begin to call; and the Female that is tyed by the Legs 20 hearing her Mate to call, will begin to cry out, and provoke the others to do the same, upon which the Drake comes to his Female, and gene­rally draws with him the whole Flock, which greedily fall to eat the Bait laid for that purpose. The Ducks being once come within your Draught, pull your Cords with the quickest force you can; and having thus taken them, let go your Decoy Ducks, and feed them well, and the Wild ones you may kill; and so set your Nets again as you 30 see occasion.

Sometimes the Wind is so contrary, that the Male Duck can't hear his Mate when she cryeth; in that case let go a second, and a third to bring in the company you design to surprize. Your Decoy Ducks should have some mark of distinction for your more ready knowing them from the Wild ones, as something sowed about one of their Legs. 40

To take Ducks with Runing Slips, and Col­lers of Horse-hair.

I shall now shew you a cheap, and easy way to take Ducks with Runing-Slips, &c. especially in such low Marshes, as are overflown not above a Foot and a half deep.

Observe the Haunts most frequented by them, and there cast a little Grain for two or three days, to embolden and draw them on, for having 50 once fed there, they will not fail to return thither every Day. You must then plant seven or eight dozen of your runing Bows of Horse-hair tyed by two or three together unto little sharp Stakes, which must be fixed into the Ground according to this ensuing Figure; and they must be so placed, that

[figure]

the upper end of the Sticks and the Collers may be just hid a little under Water, and then throw some Barly or the like Grain amongst your Traps, that so you may take them either by their Heads, or swiming by their Legs.

You must resort thither thrice every Day, to see how you succeed, and to order your business as you see occasion.

[figure]

This Figure offereth you a Device much of the same Nature with the former; It is a Stake which for length is according to the depth of the Water as T, V, at the great end T, bore it with two cross Holes, and put into the said Holes two Sticks, one P, R, the other Q▪ S, each about the bigness of ones little Finger, and about two Foot long; they must be strong set in, and well peg'd, at each end of the Sticks fasten your Collers or Slipping Bows of Horse-hair well twisted, as the Letters P, Q, R, S, then place your Stick T, V, that it may be all un­der Water; and so as your knots may just swim open on the top of the Water, and then cast your Grain or Chippings of Bread in and out a­mongst the said Stakes, the better to entice the Ducks to come.

To take Ducks with Hooks, and Lines.

Those that use the Water much, and observe where Ducks resort, do frequently use to take store of them by Hooks and Lines, the manner is as here described by these Figures.

[figure]

Fasten your Lines well and strong unto piked 60 Sticks, as the Figure marked G represents; and stake down your Sticks into the Ground, then Bait your Hook with an Acorn, Bean, or the like, as the Figures B, E, represents, or with a Fish as the Figure C. You may also bait it with a Worm. By these you may learn to Bait with Pasts, or the like; and you should do well to feed the Ducks three or four days before, at the place where you [Page 161] intend to set your Lines and Hooks the better to draw them on an embolden them, and you should visit your Sport every Morning and Evening, to take in what you have caught, and to Rectifie what is a miss.

CHAP. XXIX.10
Directions to take Herons, Bitterns, Wild-Geese, Ducks, Swans and the like.

THere are divers sorts of large Fowl that frequent Rivers and Moorish places, seeking 20 for Fish, Frogs and such like Food that the Wa­ter affords, especially upon great Floods, and the like; when you perceive any such Fowl, to fre­quent a certain place, you may take them with Hooks and Lines set, and baited according to these Figures.

[figure]

30

Your Hooks must be strong, and well tyed to your Lines, then Bait them in this manner, thrust 40 the long strait part of your Hook into the Mouth, or Throat of the Frog, and let the end come out at the Tail, and then fasten it to the Line, which must be tyed to some Bough, Root of a Tree, or Stump; and for want of such conveniency, drive in some Stake to fasten it unto.

If you can get a small Fish about the bigness of a Gudgeon it will do as well, and for some sort of Foul better; and therewith Bait your Hook, thrusting the long end in at the Throat g, and out 50 at the Fundament h; and there fasten your Hook to the Line, and your Line to some Stake or the like, as marked e, the end f being fixed into the Ground, and the great end e being just covered over with the Water; And the first Hern, or Bit­tern that shall perceive it, will make at it, and de­vour it, and so become taken.

You must attend Morning and Evening to look after your Baits, and to do well you should place good store of Hawks in several pla­ces.60

If your Baits do miss, and that you find the Fowl do resort thither; then fetch a great com­pass about them, and as it were gently drive them to those places where your Baits are set; and if they pass within sight thereof, they will come to them and be taken.

For this Sport the Stalking-Horse, either Na­tural or Artificial, may be of great use.

CHAP. XXX.
Several Directions for taking Hawks, as also other Birds, with an Owl, or Horn-Coot.

YOu must know that all Birds that sleep in the Night, are Enemies to those that take their Rest in the Day. Such that sleep by Day are the several sorts of Owls, the Osprey, &c. and when any of the Day Birds, espy them, they ga­ther about them both great and small, endea­vouring to kill them. You may with the smaller sort of Owls catch good store of ordinary Birds, as Sparrowhawks, Magpies, Jayes, Daws, Black­birds, Thrushes, Sparrows, Lennets, and the like: And with your great Horn-Coot, the Goshawk, Faulcon, Lanner, &c. besides the aforesaid Birds.

The Horn-Coot is a large sort of Owl, and keeps altogether in Woods and great Forests; he is oft­times bigger than a middle sized Goose, with hairy Legs and rough Footed; he hath great Tufts of Feathers on either side of his Head, bearing out like Horns; his Face is broad and large, his Eyes great and sparkling, and his Voice terrible and frighting. Having got such an Owl, you need want no Recreation, having first made him fit for your purpose, and to that end follow these Directions.

The first thing to be taught him is to come and feed on your Fist, being ready and perfect at that, put him into some Room or Cockloft, where you must place two pieces of Timber at each end of the Room one, which must be about two foot high, and cut on the upper-side like the Ridge of an House, declining on both sides, that your Horn-Coot may Pearch on them; then tye a Cord from one of the said Pearches to the other, having first drawn it through an Iron-Ring, or some strong Leather-Strap, whereunto tye a Strap about three foot long, and at the other End your Horn-Coot must be fastned by the Legs, just like unto Hawks. Your Ring, or Leather Strap, must be loose, so as to play for­wards and backwards from one Billet to the other, that your Horn-Coot may divert himself when he is minded to change places. At first, place not your two Pearches, or Billets, above six or seven foot asunder; but afterwards you may lengthen them by little and little, as you perceive he comes on. Let him not rest at any time on the Ground, and let the Strap, by which he is tied, be proportioned to the height of the Pearches.

You must teach him to fly from one Stand to the other, by never feeding him on that Pearch where you find him, but only shew him his food, [Page 162] and so draw or entice him to the other; when he hath had a Reward of two or three Bits, remove your self to the other End, Calling him, and unless he come to the other Pearch give him no more; and by this means in a little time you will find he will be too quick for you, for as soon as he perceives you to move, he will fly along and get thither before you: He is then well made, and will be brought to that pass in about two Months. 10

My next business shall be, to shew you how to prepare the Place and Instruments you are to use in taking Hawks, and other Birds, by the help of your Horn-Coot.

Choose out some Quarter that lieth high and open, free from Hedges, Trees, or Bushes, only with a single [...]ree, distant at least four hundred [...] from any other, with a large round spread­ing Top, and pare away all the under Boughs. This Figure shews the whole, with the Explana­tion.20

[figure]

30

From A to E is the Stem of the Tree, cleansed 40 from all Boughs about twelve foot round from 50 the Ground, the top Branches being all pared away, to bring the whole into a uniform Cut, no place sticking out more than another, that your Nets may the freer play: If there be any void place in the Tree, by which a Bird may stoop through and stick at your Horn-Coot which is under it, you must there stick in some Boughs to fill it up; and it were not amiss if you let 60 three or four Boughs below to stand out some­what more than the rest, upon which a Bird might take stand, to view your Owl or Horn-Cool at the bottom of the Tree.

You must carefully gather up all the Leaves, Chopings, and broken Sticks, and put them out of sight for the avoiding Suspicion; for Hawks especially are very jealous and observant. Then choose out three Boughs from under the Tree, that stand in a Triangle at an equal distance, as those marked T, V, the third being just behind the Tree; then make a little Incision, or Cleft, with your Knife in the End of each of the said Branches; the Clefts should be distant about nine or ten foot each from the Body of the Tree; the intent of these Clefts are to receive as many little Pegs, which are fastned to the Cords of your Net, as hereafter in the next Figure shall be declared.

Then prepare two Billets, one of which place at H, L, about four or five foot from the Body of the Tree, which must be strong set into the Ground; the other at I, must be placed about an hundred Paces distant, and forced also into the Ground; then stick up four or five Branches, as R, S, about three foot from it for a Lodge, where you may withdraw with your Compa­nions; behind each of the Billets drive a strong Peg of Wood, as M, and your place is fitted.

Your place being thus prepared, take your Horn-Coot, your Cord, and a Folding-Ladder, and get early in the Morning to the place. Plant the Ladder against the hindermost of your Triangle Clefts, and fix the Peg, which is fastned to one of the Cords of your Net into the Cleft, and it must be very gently thrust in; then remove your Ladder to the Branch V, P, and gently thrust into the Cleft the Peg that is at the other end of your Net. Then carry your Ladder to the Branch Y, Z, and put into the Cleft T, one of the Pegs of the other Net; the other Peg of your second Net must be fastned into the Cleft of the Branch which is behind the Tree; then your two Nets are set in Triangle above, as appears by the Letters below X, E, A, g, X. Then re­move your Ladder into some Private place, or fasten it on the backside of your Tree to lye close.

The next thing to be done is, to draw your Line between the two Pearches, viz. from H to I, with your Iron-Ring, or Leather-Buckle clapt on it, for your Horn-Coot to move in and out as you see occasion; fix the End of the Line over the Billet I, at the Stake, in the Lodge M. Every thing being thus disposed, withdraw your self, and watch your Horn-Coot, to observe if he discovers any thing; for you shall sooner dis­cern by his Eye than your own, whether any Bird be stiring or not. When you find him turning his Head a little on one side, with his Eyes aloft, give him a little twitch, and make him forsake the Pearch, or Billet I; for on that he must be first placed, and he will fly along after a heavy manner, to rest himself on the other Billet, or Pearch, under the Tree. The Bird that was passing by having once discovered him, will presently stoop at him, and perceiving the Tree will take a Stand, to consider his strange Countenance, and resolving to set on him, Casts himself into one of the Nets, which soon falleth down upon him; and you must be nimble to take him out, that he bruise not his Feathers, nor over heat himself by Bating, and send him away; then set your Net as before, and with­draw [Page 163] your Horn-Coot to your Lodge again on the Pearch I.

The Nets to be used are the same with that mentioned in the Twenty fifth Chapter, where it is at large described.

The Preceding Device is very good, but that which is designed by this following Figure is much better, in regard there is no need of any Tree, and also because you may by this take two or three, nay twenty at one time; and like­wise 10 in regard the Birds which now come to your Horn-Coot, have no Pearch to stand and gaze, whereby they may hazard the discovering of your intent. Furthermore, if five or six Hawks, or other Birds, should be at once in your Tree, you may expect to take but one, and pro­bably the worst of them all.

[figure]

This Figure is much the same with that for taking Plovers, already at large discoursed of.

For taking of Hawks use a double Platform, of which I have also treated; only in the placing of these, your Nets must play the one on this side, and the other on that side; whereas for Plovers, they both play one way. For Example, When you draw your Cord of the Net, the side M, falls on the Point 2, and other 4 upon 3, to the end that the Bird that strikes at the Owl, or Horn-Coot, may be sure to be taken, on what side soever it come.

You see where to place the two Pearches, viz. one at A, and the other at D. You must at first place your Horn-Coot on that by your Lodge, and when you find by him that he discovereth any Bird, force him from you that he may fly to the other Pearch A, to give a full opportu­nity of discovering himself.

In case you have any Stale Pies, or Jays, they will be also great helps to call in other Birds; and remember this thing, that in case you see any Bird which you desire to take, if he come on the Right hand, you must take him with that Net which is on your Left hand, and so on the contrary.

Having hitherto treated of the taking of Hawks, as also other Birds with an Horn-Coot; I shall next proceed to treat of the taking Hawks several other ways, and of all Ages, especially of such as are most frequent in our Kingdom, as the Goshawk, Sparrowhawk, Merlin, Hobby, Ca­strel, and the like; all which have their Ayries and Breed here, though not esteemed so good as the Beyond Sea ones, especially the Gos­hawk.

20 There are likewise some Hawks, that by some Accident or other come into this Kingdom wild, and others break out of the Mew, or by Mis­fortune are lost, and Breed here.

Hawks are taken three several ways, and at as many several Seasons; to wit, from the Ayery, after they be disclosed, at which time they are called Eyasses, or after they be full Summed, and begin to leave their Nest, at which time they are called Branchers; or after they have preyed for 30 themselves, and then they are called Sore Hawks, or Hawks in their Sorage.

The Taking Eyasse-Hawks.

FOr the taking these Hawks (which is as soon as they be disclosed, and have cast off the first Down which covereth their Feathers) there is no difficulty to be used, more than finding out the Ayery, or Nest, which is amongst the tallest Trees that grow in the thickest Coverts, and are 40 most remote from Paths, or frequented places; and when you come where the Ayery is, you may know it by the Mutings and Slicings of the Old ones about the said Ayery, and at the foot of the Tree you will find much Plumage, Fea­thers, and Bones of Birds, so that if you watch near the said place early in the Morning, or at the close of the Evening, you may see the Male bring in Prey for the Female that setteth on the 50 Nest.

Having thus found the Nest, about Mid-day (being the time that she riseth to bathe and so­lace her self) you may climb up the Tree, and look into the Nest; to see how many Eggs she hath, or whether Young ones; but be sure do not touch either, for that will make her forsake the Ayery. And when the Young ones are about ten Days old you may take them away, and bring them up with warm Meat, and li [...] 60 Birds, till they be full Summed and hard Fea­thered, and after that you may Reclaim and Man them as you find occasion, according to the Directions given in the Treatise of Hawk­ing.

These Hawks are called Eyasses, as taken out of the Nest; but this is not the best Season for taking Hawks, for they can't be so naturally [Page 164] fed as by their Damb, nor so well kept and or­dered.

The next Season for the taking young Hawks is when they are Br [...]nchers; that is, when they are hard Summed, and begin to forsake their Nests.

To take Branchers.

FOr the taking of Branchers with Nets, ob­serve 10 this Method: Having found out an Ayery, or Nest, be there very early in the Morn­ing, to watch the rising of the Old Hawks to fetch Prey for their Young ones, and soon after their departure you shall see the Young ones fly forth upon the Boughs and Branches of the Trees, skiping up and down to exercise their Wings. Now the thing to be observed is their Nests, which is ever one and the same; then climb up the Tree, and being provided with several little 02 Nets about two foot, or two foot and an half square, which must be made of strong twisted Thread, and dyed of the colour of the Leaves, for fear of frighting them, place one of those Nets about the Nest half circular, leaving one passage for their going in and out; and let it be placed about a foot and an half above the Nest, Pent­house-wife, and in such secret manner at a di­stance from the Net, that it may not be per­ceived by the Old ones. Let your Net be a 30 runing, Net, so drawn upon a strong Line, that when any thing shall strike against it, it may run together like a Purse, and enclose and keep fast the thing taken: and to that end make fast the strong Lines to some Branch of the Tree, that when they are taken they may not fall to the Ground, but hang fettered in the Net, without bruising themselves, or breaking their Feathers, which is much to be regarded.

Having thus placed your Net about the Nest, 40 then place some others of the same size and fashi­on between the thickest and usual Branches, through which they pass in and out to their Nests, especially at that place where you saw the Old ones make their passage out; and let them be placed more uprightly, and fasten the strong Lines to some Branches as aforesaid.

Your Nets being thus placed, which are to be done with all hast imaginable, for fear of the Old ones coming, you must descend the Tree, 50 and place your self in some secret place, that you may not be espyed by either the Old or Young Hawks, yet so as you may have sight of them; and when the Old ones brings them Prey, they flock about her to the Nest for it, so that as ma­ny as touch the Nets, become entangled; and those that escape are taken oft times at their com­ing out. Those that are so taken fetch not down until the Old one is departed, and the other Young ones are come out for fear of affrighting them from their Nest, and so lose the taking them; 60 and be sure not to break or bruise any of their Feathers, in the taking them out of the Nets; and you should be provided with some Rufter-Hoods to put on their Heads, which will make them quieter from strugling.

To take Hawks in their Soreage.

THis Season is from the time they have Prey­ed for themselves, until the first year be expired, and that they have Mewed. For the ta­king them you must well know their Ayerie, and diligently observe their Mornings and Evenings going forth for Prey, as also their returning home, and where they take their Stands; for Hawks of all Birds are the most constant to their wonted places. Therefore being thus acquainted with their times of going out, and the places where they sit at their return, take the advantage of their going out for Prey, and climb up the Tree where their Stands are, and in the strait places where they must pass, take a pair of those Nets called by Falconers, Vrines, or Vrnes, which for shape are not much different from those you are to use for the taking of Branchers; but they are much more larger, and more hollow in compass, with a large Mesh; they are made of strong Twisted brown Thread, and dyed Green as afore­said; but being common to be bought at Net-makers Shops, I shall say no more of them.

These Vrines or Nets place in the several pas­sages, and in divers Trees round their Stand, so that let them come which way they will, you may meet with some of them, and place your self in some secret place, as before directed, to watch their taking, for fear of hurting themselves; and when you have taken them down, Hood them as aforesaid.

But if it happen that this taketh no effect, then six Stales under your Nets, of such Birds ei­ther great or small as you see they Prey upon; and these Stales tye at such a convenient liberty, that they may flutter up and down within the compass of the Net. Then about Day-break when the Hawk begins to rouze her self upon her Stand, and to gaze about according to their Nature; and hath cast up her Casting of Plumage, or Feathers, and being sharp and hungry, will soon espy your Stales, and with all eagerness make them her Prey, by which means she will become intangled in the Nets; and by this Device you may take all the Ayerie, provided you be not too rash, by getting up the Tree, to take that down, and so a [...]right the rest away.

To take Hawks with Lime-Rods, or a Lime-Bush.

THere are some that for taking of sore Hawks do use Lime-Rods, or a small Lime-Bush, artificially made of five Twigs, gently fixed into a little Socket of Wood made like a Handle, that so soon as any thing toucheth or striketh them, they presently depart from the Socket, and clap close to the thing that it toucheth, and so become intangled; those little Bushes are artificially pla­ced about the Stand where the Hawk useth to fit, compassing it so about, that she can't come to the Stand without intangling.

As for the single Lime-Rods, they must be fixed to the nearest Branches to the Stand, coming slope­wise so near the Stand, that she can't come in [Page 165] without touching them, and so become intangled. These Lime-Rods are to be placed not only about he Stand, but also in and about all Passages, through which she cometh to her Stand; and they must be artificially placed, that she may not di­stinguish them from the Natural Twigs of the Tree.

These single Lime-Twigs or Rods must be about a Foot and an half long, and about half ways Limed; but those used for the Bush, must be a­bout 10 twelve or fifteen small Rods in a Cluster, and so placed that one may not touch another; which Twigs must be about six Inches long, of which Lime four Inches towards the top.

But although this manner of taking Hawks is very certain, and not much troublesom, yet it is not so good and neat, by reason of besmearing their Feathers with the Lime; therefore for the cleansing their Feathers from the Lime, have ve­ry 20 sine clarified Capons Grease, or Goose Grease, a­nointing therewith the Limed Feathers very well, then take of the sinest Hourglass Sand, and scat­ter it thick upon the Oyntment; and having warm Water, either bath the said places, or with a soft Spung dipt into the said Water, bath the Feathers therewith, working them betwixt your Fingers; by which means you will get off all the daubed Lime, and perfectly cleanse the Feathers from the same.30

Taking Hawks with a Dark Lanthorn.

THis way is very good and sure for single Hawks, as well Young as Old. Observe this Method. Having found the Stand of a Hawk, in the dead of the Night when it is very Dark, get a Dark Lanthorn, and turn the Light just be­fore your Face, and against the Hawk, by which means your Face will not be seen by the Hawk, and make as little noise as possible; and by this 40 Device you may come unto her, and take her from her Stand with your Hand; for the Light doth cast an Amazement unto her, and it were not amiss if you covered your Face with a piece of thin Green Silk; for nothing is more affright­ful to them, than the Face of a Man.

This way is good to take all Hawks that through ill Reclaiming, or otherwise do escape, and break away, and so become Wild.50

Concerning the Stands of Hawks.

IF it be a Day-Stand, you shall find about it nothing but Mutings, and Slysings without any mixture of Matter. And if it be a Night-Stand, you shall find lying amongst the Mutings many and divers Castings of Feathers, Plumage and the like, which you may know to be a Hawks from other Fowl, by the bigness, proportion and Substance. Also by the difference of the Castings, 60 you may know if it be her present or former Stand; if her present, then you shall find Castings of all Natures, as some altogether dry, some about three parts dry, others half dry, some less; and probably her Casting that Morning. But if it be her forsaken Stand, then all the Castings will be dry, old and withered. And thus much concer­ning the taking of Hawks.

CHAP. XXXI.
Of Singing Birds, and how to pre­serve and keep them.

HAving thus largely Treated of the taking both Land and Water Fowl; It will not be unnecessary to Treat of such Singing Birds as are of most esteem amongst us, with some short Directions how to keep them; and first with the Nightingal.

The Nightingal.

THis Bird by most is esteemed the Queen of all Singing Birds, as well for her sweet as various charming Notes, which she (though but small) loudly warbles forth, and generally in such places near unto Houses, and frequented places. They begin to appear about the beginning of A­pril, and where their Winter Habitation is, none knoweth, but 'tis supposed by some that they sleep all that Season.

She makes her Nest in Quickset Hedges, or the like places, not far from the Ground, and Hatch­eth her young about the beginning of May, and the earlier the young ones are hatched, they are esteemed the better. They should be taken out of their Nests when indifferent Fled'g, for if well Feathered, they (as all other Birds) will become sullen and dye, and if too little or callow, they are tender and also in danger of dying.

For their Meat give them Sheeps Hearts, or Bullocks Hearts, but take off the fat skin that covereth it, as also the Sinews; then soke the like quantity of White-bread in Fair Water, squeez­ing out some of the Water, and mince them small together, and give it them on the point of a Stick, as much at a time as is sufficient. When they are old enough to fly out of the Nest, put them into a Cage, with several Pearches to sit up­on; and let them be lined with green Bays, for at the first they are very subject to the Cramp, and at the bottom of the Cage put in some Moss, or fine Straw; and it were not amiss if their Ca­ges were lined in the Winter, otherwise they must be kept in a warm place. At their first Ca­ging put amongst their Meat Ants Egs.

In Summer every day feed them with fresh Meat; when they begin to Moult, let their Meat be hard Egs and Sheeps Hea [...]s, o [...] equal quanti­ties mixed together with Saffron and Water, but by the way take notice that D [...]ck-Egs will kill them: Sometimes you may give them Catterpil­lers, Red Worms, F [...]gs Lice, or Meal Worms.

As to their Diseases and Cure [...], observe that at the latter end of August they grow very fat, as well those abroad▪ as those in Cages. When their fat abates and they cease Singing, 'tis an ill sign; therefore keep them very warm, and give them Saffron in theer Meat or Water▪ When you per­ceive the growth of their fat▪ purge them thrice a week for a Month, either with a Worm usual­ly [Page 166] found in Dove-Houses, or with a Speckled Spider, which you may find about Vines, or Goosbery Trees, about August, and at no other time.

If they are Melancholy, put into their Drinking Pot, some Liquorice, with a little White Suger Can­dy, and let their Meat be Sheeps-Hearts Shred, some Meal-Worms, and hard Egs mingled with Pismires.

If you keep them not clean, so that their Feet 10 are clogged, their Claws will rot off, and they will be subject to the G [...]ut and Cramp, and take no delight in themselves; therfore keep the Cage clean and handsome, with good dry Sand in the Bottom.

For the Cure of the Gout, take Fresh Butter, and Anoynt their Feet, Four or Five Days, and it will cure them.

They are also troubled with Apostumes, and breaking out about their Eyes and Neb, for which 20 use Capons Grease.

The way to take Nightingals.

FOr Young ones observe where the Cock sings, and if he Sings long the Hen, is not far off, and when you come near the Nest she will Sweet and Cur; if notwithstanding you can't find the Nest stick a Meal Worm or two upon a Thorn, and retiring into some place out of sight, observe 30 which way it is carried by the Old one, and ap­proaching you will hear the Young ones, when she feeds them. Having found the Nest, do not touch them, for then they will not tarry in the Nest.

The way to take Branchers, is thus; scrape in the Ditch, or Bank-side, the Earth about three quart­ers of a [...]ard square, that it may look fresh; then take a Bird-Trap or Net-Trap, which make after this fashion.

Take a Net made of Green Thread, or rather 40 Silk, which should be about a Yard in compass, and made after the fashion of a Shove-Net for Fish; then get some large Wire, which bend round, joyning both ends together, which put into a short Stick about one Inch and an halt long; then take a piece of Iron with two Che [...]ks, and a Hole on each side, through which put some fine Whip-Cord three or four times double, the better to hold the piece of Wood unto which the ends of the Wire are put; and with a Button on each side the Iron 50 twist the Whip-Cord, to the end the Net may play the quicker. You must fasten the Net to the Wire as you do a Shove-Net to the Hoop, then get a Board the compass of the Wire, and joyn the two Cheeks of Iron at the Handle of your Board, and make a Hole in the middle thereof, and put a piece of Stick, about two Inches long, and a Hole at the Top of your Stick where you must have a Peg to put in with two Wires an Inch and a half long, to stick your Meal Worm upon,60 then in the middle of the Top of the Net, tie a String drawing the Net up, having an Eye at the end, of the Handle to put your Thread through, and pull it till it stands upright, then pull it through the Hole of the Stick that stands in the middle of your Board, and put your Peg in the Hole, to hold the String of the Net, that it can't fall down; upon the Wires put two Worms before you put it into the Hole, and set it as gently as you can, that it may fall down upon the first touch of the Nightingals approach. Then having scraped the place, your Net and Worm being in a rea­diness, put some Ants in your Trap-Cage, and upon the Board put some Worms upon Thorns, and set them at the bottom of the Trap-Cage, to which end little Holes should be made to stick in the Ends of the Thorns. Then plant your Trap near the place where you heard them Call, be it in the Ditch, by the Bank-side, or Corner of a Hedge, and you need not fear of catching some. You may set what number of Cages you think convenient, the more the better.

Having taken any, tie the ends of their Wings with strong Thread, to disable them from bruising and hurting themselves against the Top and Sides of the Cage; and to that end, it were convenient to let the Cage be lined with Green-Bays.

For Four or Five Days until they are Reclaim­ed, let them not be disturbed with Company, as little as may be; let their Food be Sheeps-Hearts, and hard Egs finely shred, and mixt together, with Red Ants, and a few Red Earth-Worms will not do amiss. At the first taking them they will Eat nothing but living things, as Worms, Ants, Flyes, Catterpillers, and the like; But if through fulleness they will not Eat, then open their Bills and force them, strewing some of the said Meat at the bottom of the Cage.

Those Nightingals that are taken in July, or August, will not sing till middle October, and then they will hold in Song till June following; but those taken in the begining of April, are esteem­ed the best for Song. Those Birds that Sing be­fore they feed, are generally excellent; but those that are long a feeding, and do not begin to Sing, are not worth the keeping.

Cocks are thus known from Hens; the Cock is said to be longer and bigger than the Hen; to have a greater Eye, a larger Bill, and a Tayl more reddish: But take this for a certain Rule, that if any of your Nestlings, before they can feed themselves, do Record a little to themselves, and in that Recording you perceive their Throats to Wag, it is a sure sign they are Cocks.

Brainchers, when they are taken and do Feed, whether Cocks or Hens, will Record; but the Cocks do it much longer, louder, and oftner.

CANARY BIRDS.

THese Birds take their name from the place from whence they first came, viz. from the Canary Isles; but of late years there is a sort, (but not so good) that are brought from Ger­many: And there are some that are curious in this Diversion in their Aviaryes that breed them in England, which are excellent, surpassing all o­thers; but the keeping and ordering them is trou­blesome.

These Birds being of such esteem for their pleasing Notes are much prized, so that as a Merchandize they are brought over and sold by certain Shop-Keepers about Billings-gate, in London, for Ten, Twelve, or Fiften shillings a piece, more [Page 167] or less, according to the goodness and excellency of their Notes, there being a great difference in them.

If you would know whether they are in health before you buy them, take them out of the Store-Cage, and put them into a Clean Cage alone; and if they stand up boldly without crouching or shrink­ing their Feathers, and looks with a brisk Eye, 'tis a sign they are in Health; but if they Dung very thin and watry, or of a slimy White, without,10 any Blackness in it, 'tis a sign of Death.

They are Subject to many Diseases, as Impos­tumes, which afflict the Head, and will cause them to fall suddenly from the Pearch, if not speedily Cured.

The most approved Medicine is to make an Oyntment of Fresh Butter, and Capons-Grease melt­ed together, and anoynt the infected place there­with Three or Four Days together, and when it is soft, open it gently and let out the Corruption,20 then anoynt the place with some more of the said Oyntment, and it will perfect the Cure in a short time; and during the time of the Cure give them Figs and Liquorice, with White Suger-Candy in their Water.

The LINNET.

THis is a pretty Bird, and for a sweet and pleasing Note takes place next to the Ca­nary 30 Bird, and were it not so common would be of great esteem; the feeding the Nestlings is with White-Bread soaked in Milk, or Water, with bruised Rape-Seed mixt of the like quantity, and let it be fresh made every day, for that which is four will breed Diseases; this Meat give them on the Top of a Stick as often as occasion serves to seed them.

If you would have them to Whistle, you should Whistle to them in the time of feeding them, and 40 the best is with a Flagelet, observing constant Tunes, and what Bird soever you would have him to learn his Note, under that Bird let him hang, and he will perfectly imitate him, especial­ly the Canary Birds Notes exactly.

The Cock is known from the Hen by the Breast, which is redder, and his Back is browner, with White under his Wing, viz. the fourth, fifth and Sixth Feathers.

His usual Food is Rape and Canary-Seed mixt 50 together, with little Hemp-Seed. And blow off the Huks every day from the Seeds in the Draw­er of his Cage, and betwixt the Wire put some Chalk to rub his Bill, also a Lump of Suger is very good sometimes to pick upon; the Dutch-Seeds are esteemed better than the English, as being thiner skin'd.

Many are the Diseases of this Bird, as Con­vulsions of the Breast, Ptisick, known by the pant­ing, staring of his Feathers, and lean Breast; 60 which distemper happens for want of fresh Wa­ter, or green Meat, as Chick-Weed, or the like; in the Spring sometimes he is troubled with Hoars­ness in his Voyce, by over-streyning to sing, but of all Diseases, scowring is most dangerous, and if it is clammy, it is mortal. Saffron is very good to give them in their Water, and Suger-Can­dy.

The Robbin Read-Breast.

THis Bird being so innocent and harmless is most beloved, and of all others is the most familiar, coming into the Houses to eat Crums of Bread; and for a sweet and changeable Note is little inferiour to the Nightingal, or Canary-Bird; besides it is very tractable to Whistle. They breed generally thrice a year. Those that you intend to keep should be taken from the Old ones before they are much fledged, otherwise they will be sullen and dye; and being a tender Bird are to be kept in Cages lined with Bays. They are to be feed in all respects as the Nightingal.

In the bottom of the Cage put Moss for warm­ness. If you would have them learn to Whistle use the Flagelet that hath a small fine Note.

The way to take the Old ones is both easy and common, which you may do either with a Pitfal, or with a Trap Cage, bought at any shop that sells Cages, and in the said Cage you may put for a Bait some little Worms, Crums of Bread, or the like.

The Cock hath his Breast of a darker Red than the Hen, and it goeth further up upon his Head.

The WOOD-LARK.

THis Bird for its excellent, pleasant, and va­rious Notes, is held in great esteem. They Breed very early in the Year, and make their Nest in Lair-Ground, where the Grass is rank and russet, under some large Tuffs, to shelter them from the Cold. 'Tis a very difficult Bird to take from the Nest, and so to breed up, generally dy­ing of the Scouring, or Cramp in a short time after they are taken out of the Nest; so that the best way were to take the Old ones, or Bran­chers, before Moulting-time; the chief Season be­ing in June, July, and August.

The way to take them is with a Hobby, after this manner: Go out in a Dewy Morning to the sides of some Hills that lye towards the rising of the Sun, where they most usually frequent; and having Sprung them, observe where they fall; then surround them twice or thrice, carry­ing your Hobby on your Fist, causing him to hover as you draw near, by which means they will lye still until you clap a Net over them, which carry on the Point of a Stick. If you would take three or four together, have a Net made like that for Partridge, only with a smaller Mesh, and carrying your Hobby, as aforesaid, which will serve you as the Setting-Dog for the Partridge, and with your Net at one Draught you may take them all: But those taken in these Months are not so good for the Cage, as those taken in Fe­bruary, or January, as not holding their singing so long.

Upon your first taking them, put into the Cage two Pans, one for minced Meat, and the other for Oatmeal, and whole Hempseed; then having boiled an Egg hard, take the Crums of White-bread, with the like quantity of beaten Hemp-seed, and mix them altogether, mincing [Page 168] the Egg, very small, and give it them to eat. At the bottom of the Cage should be fine Gravel, and be sure to keep the Cage clean, and shifted every three or four Days at least with fresh Gra­vel, which they much delight in. If you would have them sing loud, and much, feed them with Sheeps Hearts, hard Eggs, and Hemp-seed bruised, mixed together, and put into the Water a little [...], white Sugar-Candy, and Saffron, once a Week.10

If in the beginning of the Spring you find them [...] poor, give them for two or three days a Turf of [...]hree leaved Grass, as is used to the Sky [...] also some Sheeps Hearts boiled, and mixed with B [...]ad, an hard Egg, and bruised [...] before directed.

If those Birds [...] in January, or February, Sing not within a Month, 'tis a sign they are other [...], or will not be worth the keeping. Now for the knowing a [...] observe these Rules; 20 [...] ▪ the largness and length of his [...] ▪ and the doubling of his Note, called Cudling in the [...].

These [...] are very subject to [...] ▪ the [...] and [...] in the Head. The best Cure for [...] ▪ is to take them out of the Cage. and smoak them with [...] then put fresh [...] and set them in an hot place where the Sun shines, that they may [...]ask them selves in the [...]. For the [...] also, shift the 30 [...]. And for the [...] in the [...] from giving them too much [...]. Cure Give them some [...] and [...] ▪ with the Eggs. [...] Water

The SKYLARK.

The Skylark is more handy than the [...] ▪ and [...] troublesom to keep; but 40 the [...] to give them is much the same, as hard [...] and [...] and always let there be kept in the [...] a Turf of fresh [...]

They Breed in [...] ▪ or in high Turfs of Gran in [...], and seldom have Young ones till Mid May.

They are taken several was, as already is treated of in a [...] relating to the Taking them▪ to which I refer you.50

[...]

THere are said to be five kinds of, [...].

The [...] hath great variety of pleasing [...] and sings about nine Months in the Year They generally Breed three times in 60 a Year beginning early; but the first Birds usu­ally prove the best.

The Young ones may be taken from the Old [...] about fourteen days, keep them dry and clean from their [...] and feed them with [...] Meat and some [...] together with bruised [...] the Bread before you mingle it with the Meat; and let them have always fresh Water, and the bottom of the Cage kept clean, otherwise they will be troubled with the Cramp.

The BLACKBIRD.

THis Bird by the ordinary Country People is in much esteem, but not for its pleasant Note, nor its long continuance in Singing, fearce exceeding, three Months. Their food is much the same as for the Throsh, and are to be so ordered.

The STARLING.

THis is a very docile Bird, and if taken out of the Nest young is apt to learn both to [...]alk and Whistle. 'Tis a hardy Bird; their food is Sheeps-Hearts, or other raw Flesh, hard Eggs minced, Hemp-seed, wet Bread, and the like.

CHAP. XXXII.
Of the WATER-SPANIEL, How to Train and Order him for the Game, useful in Fowl­ing.

THe Water-Dog is of such general use, and so common amongst us, that there needs no great description of him; but there are great differences amongst them, as well in Proportion as otherwise. As to Colour, the Curious will make a difference, as the Black to be the best and hardiest, the Spotted or [...]yed quickest of [...], and the [...] swiftest in Swimming: but in truth [...] is nothing material▪ for without doubt there are good and bad of all [...], and that by Experience is found: But his Breeding, Training-up, and the coming of a good [...]rd, are the chief things, yet it must be con­feited, that as to handsomness the Colour is to be regarded so is the Proportion as to his Shape▪ and then his Head should be round, with curled Hair, his Ears broad and hanging, his Eyes full and lively, his Nose short, his Lips like unto an [...], his Neck thick and short, his Shoulders broad, his Legs strait, his [...] square, his Ribs with a compass, his [...] round, his Thighs brawny, his [...] gaunt, his P [...]ster [...]s strong, and [...], and his Fore-feet long and round with his [...] in general long and curled, not loose and [...]agged: for the first sheweth hardiness and strength to endure the Water, and the other much tenderness and weakness.

Now for the Training and Bringing him up, you can't begin too Early▪ I mean▪ to teach him [...] when he can but Lap, for that is the [...] thing to be learnt: for being made to Obey, he is then ready to do your Commands: Therefore so soon as he can Lap, teach him to [Page 169] Couch, and Lye close, not daring to stir from that posture without your Command; and the better to effect this, always cherish him when he does your Will, and correct him when he disobeys; and be sure observe, that in the first Teaching him you never let him eat any thing, but when he does something to deserve it, that he may thereby know that Food is a thing that cometh not by chance, or by a liberal Hand, but only for a Reward for well doing; and this will 10 make him not only willing to Learn, but apt to remember what he is taught without Blows; and to that end, have no more Teachers or Feeders than one, for Variety breeds confusion, as teach­ing divers ways, so that he can learn no way well.

Another thing is. You must be very constant to the Words of Direction by which you teach him, chusing such as are most petinent to the purpose, and those Words that you first use do 20 not alter, for D [...]gs take notice of the Sound, not of the English, so that the least alteration puts him to a stand: For Example, If you teach him to Couch at the Word Couch, and afterwards would have him Couch at the Word Down, this will be an unknown Command unto him; and I am of Opinion, that to use more Words than what is necessary, for one and the same thing, is to over load his Memory, and cause Forgetful­ness in him. (And this Method should be ob­served 30 as to the Setting-Dog.) You must teach him also to know the Word of Correction, or Reprehension, for no Lesson can be taught without a Fault, and no Fault should escape without Re­prehension at the least of Chiding, and in this be as constant to a Word, as Go too Sirrah, Ha Ras­cal, or the like, which at first should be used with a Last, or Jerk, to make him know that it is a Word of Wrath or Anger; neither must such Words proceed from you lovingly or gently, but 40 with Passion, and Roughness of Voice, together with Fierceness of Looks, that the Whelp may Tremble when he hears you thus speak to him.

You must have certain Words of Cherishing when he doth well, that he may be thereby en­couraged, as That's a good Boy, Well done, or the like, using therewith Chearfulness of Speech, with Actions of Favour, as Spi [...]ing in his Mouth, Clapping him on the Back, and the like.50 You must also use some Words of Advice, that when he is at his Sport he may the better per­form the same, and may serve as a Spur to put him forward with more Chearfulness of Spirit, as Take heed, Hem, or the like.

When your Whelp is brought to understand these several Words, viz. of Instruction, Corre­ction, Cherishing, and Advice, and that he will Couch and Lye down at your Feet, how, when, and as long as you please, and that with a Word 60 or Look only, then teach him to Lead in a Line and Collar, and to follow at your Heels, without coming too close, or hanging back; and the meaning of this is, to teach him to be the more Familiar and Obedient unto you.

Having brought him to perfect Obedience, to follow you in a Line, the next thing must be to make him Follow you in the like Nature loose, without a Line, and always to be at your Heels, and to lye down by you without your leave to the contrary; and this is as necessary a Lesson as can be taught him, for he must be so but upon especial occasion, as to raise up Fowl from their Haunts, and to find out and bring such as you have shot, or killed, unto you.

The next Lesson to learn him is to Fetch and Carry any thing that you shall Command him, and this you may begin to teach him by the way of Sport, as by taking your Glove, and shaking it about his Head, making him to catch at it, and to play with it; and sometimes let him hold it in his Mouth, and strive to pull it from you; then cast it a little way from you, and let him Musse it on the Ground; then take it from him gently, giving him Cherishing words, as That's a good Boy, Well done, or the like. After you have spent some time in this, and that you find him to take it from the Ground, and to hold it in his Mouth as it were for you, then begin to cast it further and further, giving him your Command, saying Fetch, or Bring it Sir­rah; and if he brings it, then Cherish and Re­ward him with Meat, or a Crust of Bread, and let him have no food, but what he deserves by doing this Lesson, and by your continual Pra­ctice he will fetch your Glove, or any thing else you shall throw out for him.

If at any time he offers to run away with your Glove, or to toss it up and down wantonly, not bringing it to you orderly; then first give him your Word of Instruction, and if that will not do, your Word of Correction, and if neither avail, then proceed to Blows, and give him nothing to eat as a Reward until he doth as you Command. When by this means you have made him per­fect, and that he will fetch your Glove readily where e're you throw it, bringing it to you although in Company, and all call him to come to them, you must then make much of him, and Reward him very well: And having Trained him up to fetch your Glove, then proceed to teach him to fetch whatsoever you throw from you, as Staves, Nets, Stones, Money, or any thing that is portable.

Also teach him to carry live or dead Fowl, and with a tender Mouth, that when you have occa­sion to use him for the Sport, he may bring them to you without tearing, or so much as bruising a Feather.

And as you walk with him in the Fields, drop something behind you unknown to him; and being gone a little way send him back to seek it, by saying, Back Sirrah, I have lost; and if at first he stand amazed urge him still, and cease not by pointing to him the Way you would have him go, until by seeking out he finds that which you so dropt, which make him take up by say­ing That's it, and to bring it after you; then drop it again, going twice as far as formerly, causing him to go back to seek it, not leaving him till you have made him find it, and bring it to you; for which Cherish and Reward him, and where he fails there Chastise or Chide him, some­times with angry Words, other times with Blows, [Page 170] and sometimes keep him Fasting, according to his Offence; and thus do until he will hunt the way back which you went, were it above a Mile.

But if your Dog happen to bring to you a Wrong thing, you must receive it from him, and Cherish him; but send him back presently again, saying, Away again, or I have lost more, and be not satisfied until he bring you the right thing; and if he return without any thing, then be sure 10 both to Chide and Beat him for his Sloth and Negligence.

When he will thus Fetch, Carry, and Find out things thus lost, then Train him to hunting, be­ginning, first with [...]ame-fowl, which by your help, (when they Dive, or otherwise) you may with little labour make him take, which will much hearten and encourage him to the Sport. After this make him use all his Cunning▪ without your assistance, whether he gets or loseth the Game, and 20 according to his desert Reward or Correct him; and by this Practice he will become Master of his Game▪ and be sure always that he brings his Game (when taken) to the Shoar unto you, with­out hurting it.

Your next business shall be to Train him un­to your Fowling-Piece, causing him to follow as it were step by step behind you, and under the Covert of your Shadow until you have Shot, or else to Couch down, or Lye close, where you ap­point 30 him, by saying, Lye close, until you have Shot: and then upon the least Notice or Beckon, speedily to come, and to do what you Command.

Some Dogs are so expert as to have their Eye on the Game, and upon a Guns going off im­mediately run to fetch it; but 'tis not adjudged so good, for the Piece should not be the Warning to him, but your Command; and if you give him this Liberty at your Shooting, when you come 40 amongst your Nets, or Lime-Reds, as soon as he seeth the [...]owl entangled, and to flutter their Wings, he will pre [...]ently rush in amongst them, which will occasion the spoyling your Lime-Reds, and the tearing or entangling your Nets.

The [...] is of great use in Moulting-time, that is, when the Wild-fowl cast their Feathers, and can't fly, but lye lurking about in Secret places; which Season is between Summer and 50 Autumn, at which time take your Dog into such places where they resort, causing him to hunt about, and when he finds them they are easily taken, by reason they can't fly. In Fenny Coun­tries (where Fowl do much resort) great quanti­ties may be so taken, driving them into places where you must have Nets ready fixed, as in Narrow [...], or the like. These Fowl, if taken and kept tame, and fed with Beast-Livers, Whey, Curds, [...], Sca [...]l'd-Bran, and the like, are 60 excellent [...], far surpassing those absolutely Wild, both for plumpness and fatness of Body, as also for sweetness of last.

There are divers other things that your [...] are and may be taught, as taking off ones Hat, shutting of a Door, and the like, all which I forbear as things not absolutely necessa­ry for our purpose, and chiefly to please the Fancy.

CHAP. XXXIII.
Of the Setting-Dog, with Rules to choose one, and to Train him up from a Whelp, to come to Perfection.

OF all sorts of Dogs there is none so fit and proper to be made a Setting Dog, as a Land Spaniel, by reason of their Natural Incli­nation to Ranging and Beating about a Field; But any Dog whether a Water Spaniel, or a Mun­gri [...] betwixt both, or indeed a L [...]rcher or Tumbler, or any Dog that hath a perfect good Scent, and naturally addicted to the Hunting of Fowl, may be brought to be a Setter.

You should choose one of a good and nimble size, rather small than large and corpulent, of a high Mettle, and free for the Sport, being a nimble Ranger, of Active Feet, wanton Stern, busy Nostrils, and quick Scent, that his Toil be without weariness, his search without changable­ness, and yet that no delight or desire of the Game▪ Transport him beyond Fear or Obedience; for it is the best Sign of a good Spaniel, never to be fearful, but always loving to his Master, yet of a bold Courage.

Some are so curious in observing the Colours, but that I Judge a vain thing, for all Colours are alike, if the natural qualities be perfect and answerable to your design. But those aforesaid properties can't be known whilst they are young, therefore your great care is to make choise from a good and right Breed; and having so done, you may begin to teach him at five or six Months old, as being then very Tractable, for the elder they are the more stuborn to learn, nor will they re­tain their Learning so well.

The first thing is to teach him to be loving and familiar to you above all others, taking his only delight in your Company; and the better to ef­fect it, let none feed him but your self, for by this means he will not only be loving and fond, but obedient and careful of your Displeasure, a Frown or a sharp word making the same effect as Blows, for beating takes off their Courage, and makes them dull and dead Spirited.

Your Whelp being thus brought to the know­ledge of you, and to follow you in a Line with­out any Reluctancy; your next business is to teach him to couch and lye close to the Ground, first, by laying him down, saying, lye close, lye close, or the like words of Command; and ter­rifying him with rough words when he doth any thing contrary to your desire, giving him not only good words and cherishing, but Food when he obeys your Commands; and by this means you will bring him to such Obedience, and perfect Understanding, that when at any time you shall [Page]

[...] Setting Dogg & Partridg [...]

To ye. Rt. Worshipfull Sr. John Shelley of Michelgrove in Sussex Baronet

This Plate is humbly Dedicat­ed by Richard Blome

[Page] [Page 171] say lye close, down, or the like, he will do it at a word, without any awkerdness.

Then about a Yard distance lay down a piece of Bread or Meat, crying go near, making him creep to it, but before he comes to it speak smartly to him, biding him lye down, take heed, or the like, which obeying, give him your Commands by crying Hey, or the like words, to signifie him to creep forwards to it, and let him eat it, ma­king much of him; and be careful not to be too 10 severe in your sharp Words or Corrections (especi­ally at first) for that may spoil him; and being thus at command to Couch down at your word, and always with his Head from you, make him creep forward by saying go near, go near, or the like; and if he offers to raise up his Head or any part of his Body, forthwith thrust it down to the Ground, saying down, down, or the like; and if that will not do, correct him gently with a Whip, or by biting his Ear, for by no means beat him 20 about his Head, for that makes him dull, and will spoil him; and be sure when you thus Chastise him, have him always in a String (as indeed at all times during his making) that he may not run from you; and this Method observe until he is very expert, Couching at your Command, creeping on his Belly as far as you please, and lying still un­til you give him your Command to rise; so that at any time when you walk abroad with him in the Fields, and wantonly he rangeth about, up­on 30 his first hearing your Commands to lye down, he Coucheth down, and so lyeth till your further Commands.

Having brought him to this Obedience and Knowledge, then take him into the Field to Range about, suffering him to Spring any Bird or Game, not Correcting him at the first, which will encou­rage him the better, and thus do for about a Week, exercising him daily; and when he hath been used three or four times to Spring Patridges, he will 40 not follow any other small Bird, sticking only to them.

Take notice that you give not a Bitch that correction as a Dog, for she will not endure so much; and what a Dog learneth one Day, he will retein it, but a Bitch is apt to forget, so that she must have the oftner teaching.

If you can get a Spaniel that hath been accusto­med to the Hawk (although a year and a half old) he will be sooner made; for then there will 50 be no need to give him the liberty of Springing without checking; for they will mind no other Game but the Partridge.

Having brought him to know his Game, and that he is so Staunch, as to Hunt close and warily without questing or opening, provide a Bullocks Liver boyled, (which hath the same Scent of the Partridge.) Then take your Dog in a Line, which must be about 15 Yards long to lengthen out on occasion; and take in your Hawking Bag a good 60 piece of the Liver, about the bigness of a penny Loaf cut into small pieces, and lead him into the Field, and as you are going (your Dog being by your side or following you, for he must not go before you) give him your Commands to fall down as aforesaid; and if he doth it not, correct him, rewarding him with some of the Liver if he observes your Commands; then go a little further commanding him down again, saying down, and thus do until he will Couch at the first word; and being brought to this command, turn your face to him, and take the Line by which he is led, gently pulling him by it crying down, down, so that he will not rise without pulling almost by force; then go to him, take him up in your Arms, and carry him two or three Yards, then set him down making much of him, but not letting him go out of the Line from you. When he is at this command by often using this way, teach him to Hunt by hand, which is thus done. Take a piece of the Liver about the bigness of a Walnut, which shewing him in your Hand, and letting him smell to it, cast it down which way you please, but at a small Distance at first, saying hey, hey, shewing it him several times before you cast it forth; then let him go to it, and eat it, still having him in the Line. Then take another piece of the Liver, shewing it him as aforesaid; and cast it from you a little further than at the first time, and permit him to go to it, and eat it for his Reward. Thus do several times still cast­ing it further and further; and as he is going you may give him your Commands, crying hastily Down, Down, so that he immediately falls down with his face towards the Liver, and lye close till you give him your Commands to rise, by crying Hey, and pointing with your Hand for him to go forward to the Liver, and so suffer him to eat it; then call him to you, and make much of him.

The reason of teaching him thus to Hunt with the Liver, is to bring him not only to the Scent of the Partridge, and to be at command, to lye down, and the like, but also to observe your Motion which way you cast it, that thereby when he is beating about the Field, upon your crying Hey to him; and moving your Hand he may know by the Motion thereof which way to Hunt, either to the right or left. And he must be very expert in this, before you suffer him to Hunt loose, for he can't be at too much command.

Being thus expert at this, and also at great command, when he is Hunting at about fifteen yards distance, which is the length of the Line, on a suddain cry Down, then go round him at a small Distance at first, taking the Circuit larger and larger, crying Down, that he stir not (which he may be apt to do being at some Distance from you, as thinking that he should follow you) and then giving him a jerk with the Line crying Down, by which he will know that he must not stir.

Being thus used and that he is expert therein, and at command let him Hunt at liberty, but with the Line hanging at length dragging after him; and as he is thus Hunting loose, on a sud­dain give him your commands to lye Down, and Peg the end of the Line to the Ground to hinder his runing away; then pitch down your Staff or Pole, to which fasten your Line of the Net at some Distance from him, and having the other end of the Net in your Hand, gently draw the Net over him as he lieth; and if he offers to stir at your doing it, rebuke him, making him lye close, saying Down, Down, and so draw it over [Page 172] him backwards and forwards, that when you shall come to draw the Net over him when he sitteth Partridges, he will not be afraid, knowing what he is to do. And the Reason of the fastning the Line to the Ground that he is lead in, is to keep him from runing away at the first, if in case the drawing over the Net should frighten him, as at first is usual.

When he is thus made perfect, and that he endures to have the Net drawn over him without 10 stiring, and that he is come to a good Scent to know the Partridge from the Lark, or any other Game, be provided with a Brace, or Leesh of live Partridges, which carry into the Field, and hav­ing Strings to their Legs, peg them down to the Ground, which should be done over night, to the end he may not know they were there placed by you; and for your mark of direction to know where they are when you come to Hunt with him, place up a Bough near them, to the end that 20 when by beating about the Field he comes near then, that is, at about Ten or Twelves Yards distance having his Line dragging after him, and gaining the Point to be under the Wind of them, give him your Command to lie down; then round your Dog Five, Six, or Seven times, to find where they are, as also that he may know his Duty; then come up to him, and peg the End of the Line down to the Ground, that when you have drawn the Net over the Partridges he may not 30 rise at their Fluttering, as they will do. Then set a Pole or Staff on the side of the Partridges at a reasonable distance, to which six the Line, and gently draw it over your Dog, and let it lie Spread all over. And fearing that your first Net will not be sufficient to spread over the Partrid­ges, be provided with another, the End of which tie to your Staff, and draw down the Wind to­wards the Game, so that both Nets may meet, which will spread over a good quantity of Ground.40 Then make into your Nets, take the Partridges, and make up your Nets, all which time cause him to lie close, without stiring, and having so done, go to him, and reward him with one of the Necks of the Partridges, permitting him to take their Blood. And if you chance to miss, however re­ward him with some of the Liver, as afore­said.

After this method do several times, by which means when he comes to know the Scent of the 50 Patridge, he will know how to set a Covey, and you will also know at what distance he sits, for the laying over the Nets.

Note, that when you correct your Dog, al­ways have him in a Line that he may not run away, and also lead him some distance after his correction. Also always when you go into the Field, and when you come out, lead him in a Line, until he is perfectly made. And Note, that the best time to enter your Dog (provided he 60 knows his Game) is in Paring time, for then you will find more Game, (that is, more Pares) than before you can Coveys; and also at that time the Partridges will lie more close, and not be so apt to spring, which is a great Encouragement to your Dog. Also Note, that you never let your Dog Hunt too long in hot Weather without Water, for that brings them to the Falling-Sickness, which French Dogs are more subject unto than Eng­lish.

When you have brought your Dog to this staunch and obedient Hunting, and that you find him come upon the Haunt of any Patridge, which you shall know by his great eagerness in Hunt­ing, as also by Wagging his Stern; then speake to him, saying Take heed, Ware, Down, or the like, to keep him from springing them; but if either he rusheth in, or Quest so that he springs them, take him up and correct him well, keeping him some time after in his Line that you may not dis­courage him; then cast him off again to Hunt in some other Haunt where you think to find a Covey, and as before give him warning, and if you see that he makes a Point, give him your Commands to fall, and taking Range about him, look if you can find them, and if he hath set them at too great a distance, give him your Commands to creep nearer, saying, go nearer, go nearer, making him creep upon his Belly towards them, until you think he is near enough; then make him lie close without stiring, and draw over the Net or Nets as before directed, and be sure to cherish and reward him well as aforesaid.

But if it so happen that he spring then through his rudeness, or want of care, then correct him se­verely, and take him up in your Line, lead him Home, tying him up for that Night, without giv­ing him one bit of Food, and the next Day take him to the field in your string, and cast him off to Hunt about, as before directed, giving him harsh Words, to the end he may call to mind his former Fault, and be sensible of your displea­sure, which will make him the more careful to obey your Commands, and if he doth well che­rish and reward him, which will much encourage him.

Some Dogs will stand up in their Setting, which is a great Fault, so that they must be brought from it. Also 'tis a gross Fault for them to rush in after them, when you go to spring them into your Nets; therefore be sure he is in such Com­mand as not to stir until you have taken them up, as aforesaid.

There is one more material thing to be observed, and that is to know the nature of your Dog, how he sets the Partridges, whether at hand, or at a distance; for thereby you must be guided to draw over the Nets, otherwise you may Spring them and no Fault of the Dogs.

CHAP. XXXIV.
An Abstract of certain Statute-Laws in Force, relating to Fowl­ing.

NOne shall take Pheasants, or Partridges with Engines in another Mans Ground, with­out Licence, on pain of forfeiting 10 s. to be di­vided [Page 173] betwixt the Owner of the Ground, and the Prosecutor. 11 Hen. 7. Chap. 17.

None shall destroy, or take away the Eggs of any Wild-fowl, upon Forfeiture for every one of a Crane or Bustard, 20 d. of a Hern or Bittern, 8 d. and of a Duck, Teal, or other Wild-fowl, 1 d. to be divided betwixt the King and the Prosecutor. Stat. 25 Hen. 8. Chap. 11.

None shall kill or take any Pheasants or Par­tridges, with any Net or Engine in the Night Sea­son,10 upon Forfeiting 20 s. for every Pheasant, and 10 s. for every Partridge; and upon Non-pay­ment of the said Fine, within ten Days, then to suffer a Months Imprisonment without Bail, and to enter into Bond with good Sureties for two Years, before a Justice of the Peace, not offend in the like kind.

Every Person convicted by his own Confes­sion, or by the Oaths of two Witnesses, before two or more Justices of the Peace, to have killed 20 or taken any Pheasant, Partridge, Pigeon, or other Game; or to have taken or destroyed the Eggs of Pheasants, Partridges, or Swans, shall be com­mitted to Prison without Bail, except he forth­with pay to the use of the Poor where the Offence was committed, or where he was Apprehended, 20 s. for every Fowl, or Egg, so killed, taken, or destroyed; and after one Months Imprisonment, shall be bound with two sufficient Sureties in 20 l. a piece, not to offend in the like case.30

2. Every Person so Convicted to keep a Grey­hound, Dog, or Net; to kill or take Deer, Hares, Pheasants, or Partridges (unless he have 10 l. per Annum Estate, a Lease for Life of 30 l. per Annum, or be worth in Goods 200 l. or be the Son of a Noble Man, or Knight, or Heir to an E­squire) shall suffer Imprisonment, as aforesaid; or pay to the use of the Poor 40 s. for such Of­fence, as aforesaid.

3. None shall Sell, or Buy to Sell again, any 40 Pheasant, or Partridge (except by them reared up, or brought from Beyond Sea) on Forfeiture for every Pheasant 20 s. and for every Partridge 10 s. to be divided betwixt the Prosecutor, and the Poor of the Parish where such Offence is committed. Stat. 1. Jacobi Cap. 27.

Every Person convicted by his own Con­fession, or by the Oaths of two Witnesses, be­fore two or more Justices of the Peace, to have Hawked, or destroyed any Pheasant or Partridge, betwixt the first of July and the last of August, shall suffer one Months Imprisonment without Bail, or pay to the use of the Poor where the Offence was committed, or where he was Ap­prehended, 40 s. for every time so Hawking, and 20 s. for every Pheasant or Partridge so taken or destroyed; but this Offence shall be Prose­cuted within six Months after the Offence com­mitted.

II. It shall be lawful for every Lord of a Mannor, or having Free Warren, Inheritance of 40 l. per Annum, Free-hold of 80 l. per Annum, or Goods worth 400 l. or their Servants Licensed by them, to take Pheasants or Partridges within their own Grounds or Precincts; Provided they do it in the Day time, and only betwixt Micha­elmass and Christmas.

III. If any Person of a Mean Condition be Convicted by his own Confession, or by one Witness upon Oath, before two or more Justices of the Peace, to have killed or taken any Phea­sant or Partridge with Dogs, Nets, or Engines, shall be committed to Prison without Bail, un­less he pay to the use of the Poor, as aforesaid, 20 s. for every Pheasant or Partridge so killed or taken, and also become bound in a Recognizance of 20 l. never to commit the said Offence.

IV. Every Constable, or Headborough, upon Warrant under the Hand and Seal of two Ju­stices of the Peace, hath power to search the Houses of Suspected Persons to keep any Set­ting Dogs, or Nets, for the Taking of Pheasants or Partridges, and Nets there found, to kill and cut in pieces at pleasure, as things Forfeited to the said Officer.

The TABLE of the Contents of the several Things treated of in the respective Chapters in this Treatise of Fowling.

Chap. I.
  • THE Introduction, Shewing what Fowling is, with the Nature of the several sorts of Fowl; Their Haunts, &c. Pag. 119
  • Of the Haunts of Fowl. 120
Chap. II.
  • Directions for making Bird-Lime, or Lime-Twigs or Rods; and how to apply them to use for the taking Fowl and Birds several ways. ib.
  • Of Rods and Twigs. 121 10
  • To place Lime-Rods on the Land for taking small and great Fowl. ib.
  • To take small Water-fowl with Lime-Rods. ib.
  • To take small Birds by Lime-Twigs, and the Lime-Bush. 122
  • The Lime Bush ib.
  • How to take Woodcocks and Snipes with Bird-Lime. ib.
  • How to take Pigeons, Rooks and Crows upon new Plough or Sowen Ground. ib. 20
  • Another way to take Pigeons, Crows and Rooks. 123
Chap. III.
  • Compositions and Baits for Intoxicating Fowl. ib.
Chap. IV.
  • Directions [...] the Choosing, Vsing, and Ordering of a Fowling Piece, &c. 124
  • Concerning Powder and Shot. ib.
  • Directions abou [...] Shooting. 125
  • A Spaniel of great use. ib. 30
  • Shooting Flying. ib.
Chap. V.
  • Of the Stalkin-Horse, with several Artificial En­gines for getting near to Fowl to Shoot them. 126
  • An Artificial Wheel-Barrow for Stalking. ib
  • The Stalking-Tree and Bush. ib.
  • The Stalking Hodge. 127
  • An Artificial Stalking-Horse. ib.
Chap. VI.40
  • [...] [...]ond, with some Directions concerning [...] and D [...]coy-Ducks. 128
Chap. VII.
  • Direction for the Making, Choosing, Ordering and [...] Nets. ib.
Chap. VIII.
  • [...] the taki [...] Partridges with Nets; as also with Calls, Engines, &c. 129
  • [...] Partridges by the Juck. ib.
  • To take Partridges with the Call. ib. 50
  • Of the Nets. 130
  • The [...]unnel-Net. ib.
  • The Spread Net, or Drag-Net. ib.
  • How to take Partridges with Lime-Rods. 131
  • To take Partridges with an Engine▪ or Driving them▪ ib.
  • Several [...] falls above and under Ground, for taking [...] of Partridges▪ as well as single Onc [...], o [...] indeed any other Birds. ib.
  • Directions to take old Cock Partridges with Natural & Artificial Calls, with Directions to make them. 132
  • How to make Artificial Calls. ib.
  • Another way to take Partridges with the Call, and a Broad Net. 133
  • Directions to take Partridges in hard frosty Wea­ther with Sliping-Knots. 134
Chap. IX.
  • Directions to take Pheasants divers ways. ib.
  • Pearching of Pheasants, and Shooting them. ib.
  • Taking Pheasants with Nets. ib.
  • Of the Pheasant-Net. 135
  • To take Pheasants with Snares. ib.
  • To take Pheasants, as also Partridges, and to pre­serve the Game on a Mans Ground. ib.
  • To take Pheasants without hurting them, for pre­serving the Breed. 136
  • Driving of Pheasant Powts. 137
  • Observations in Driving. ib.
  • To take Pheasants with the Lime-Bush, or Lime-Rods. ib.
  • The Vse of the Lime-Bush, and Rods. 138
  • The Season to be observed for the use of the Nets, Lime-Bush, and Rods. ib.
  • To take Pheasants with a Cocking-Cloth, in Crowing time. ib.
  • Another way to take Pheasants. ib.
Chap. X.
  • How to take Quails, Moor-Powts, Rails, &c. with Calls, with Directions to make the Calls; [...] also with Nets 139
  • Another way to take Quails. 140
Chap. XI.
  • Concerning the taking Birds, Great and Small, espe­cially Wild-fowl, with Lines, Springes, Strings, Bird-Lime, &c. in Woods, Meadows, Plashes, and the like places. ib.
Chap. XII.
  • How to take Fowl and Birds by the Legs, Necks, or both, in Noozes made of Horse-hair with Running-Knots. ib.
Chap. XIII.
  • Directions to take Small Birds in Pit-falls. 141
Chap. XIV.
  • How to take Birds in the Night with a Fold-Net, and Fires, and with a double Hay, &c. 142
Chap. XV.
  • How to take Birds in the Night with the Low-Bell, Net and Light. ib.
Chap. XVI.
  • The way to take Small Birds, called Bat-fowling, 143
Chap. XVII.
  • Of the Tramel-Net, and its use. ib.
Chap. XVIII.
  • Of the Sparrow-Net, and its use. 144
  • The form and manner of the second Cross-Staff. ib.
  • The form and manner of the Sparrow-Net, as it is fixed together. 145
Chap. XIX.
  • How to take Wild-fowl with a Net, called a Crow-Net. ib.
Chap. XX.
  • [Page]Of the Day-Net for taking of Birds. ib.
  • How to take Larks with a Looking-Glass and Clap-Nets; also with a Draught-Net, &c. 147
Chap. XXI.
  • Instructions and Directions touching Cock-Roads, for the taking Woodcocks; and to supply the defect of a Tree in a convenient place, for a Cock-Road. 149
  • To take Woodcocks by Nets in high Woods, by driving them into Nets. 150 10
Chap. XXII.
  • Several sorts of Strings, Springes, Engines, &c. for the taking of Fowl and Birds either on Hedges, Trees, or on the Ground. ib.
  • Of the Great and Lesser Springes. 151
  • To take Small Fowl with the Engine. ib.
  • To take Birds and Fowl on Trees, Boughs, or Hedges. 152
  • Another way to take Fowl and Birds by Springes. ib. 20
Chap. XXIII.
  • A Device to take Blackbirds, Thrushes, and the like Birds, that frequent Misletoe Bushes. ib.
Chap. XXIV.
  • A Device to take Small Birds in hard Weather, at Barn-Doors, or House-Ends, with an Old Door and a Cord, &c. 153
Chap. XXV.
  • How to take Coots, More-Hens, Dive-Dappers, &c. by Nets. ib.30
  • Direction for making the Bramble-Net, termed by some the Hallier. 154
Chap. XXVI.
  • How to take Blackbirds, Feldivares, and the like Birds in Misty-Weather, in Highways and by the Sides of Hedges. ib.
Chap. XXVII.
  • Divers necessary Observations touching the Natures and Dispositions of Plovers, and other Wild-Fowl, with Directions to take them. ib. 40
  • Several necessary Instruments to be used in taking Plovers. 155
  • Instructions how, when and where to pitch your Nets for the taking of Plovers, and the like. 156
  • Directions for preparing the Lodge, for those that take Plovers, and the like Wild-fowl. 158
  • Instructions when, and how to Call; and also how and when to Draw the Net, for the taking Plo­vers, &c. 159
  • The Natural Call for Plovers, Curlues, and Lap­wings. ib.
Chap. XXVIII.
  • How to take Wild-Ducks with Nets, Hooks, Slip­ping-Knots, and the like. ib.
  • To take Ducks with Runing-Slips, and Collars of Horse-hair. 160
  • To take Ducks with Hook and Line, ib.
Chap. XXIX.
  • Directions to take Herns, Bitterns, Wild-Geese, Swans, Ducks, &c. 161
Chap. XXX.
  • Several Directions for taking Hawks, as also other Birds, with an Owl, or Horn-Coot. ib.
  • The taking Eyasse Hawks. 163
  • To take Branchers. 164
  • To take Hawks in their Soreage. ib.
  • To take Hawks with Lime-Rods, or a Lime-Bush. ib.
  • Taking Hawks with a Dark-Lanthorn 165
  • Concerning the Stands of Hawks. ib.
Chap. XXXI.
  • Of Singing Birds, and how to preserve and keep them. ib.
  • The Nightingals. ib.
  • The way to take Nightingale. 166
  • Canary Birds. ib.
  • The Linnet. 167
  • The Robin-Redbreast. ib.
  • The Wood-Lark. ib.
  • The Sky-Lark. 168
  • The Throsh, or Throstle. ib.
  • The Blackbird. ib.
  • The Starling. ib.
Chap. XXXII.
  • Of the Water-Spaniel, how to Train and Order him for the Game useful in Fowling. ib.
Chap. XXXIII.
  • Of the Setting-Dog, with Rules to Choose one, and to Train him up from a Whelp, to come to per­fection. 170
Chap. XXXIV.
  • An Abstract of certain Statute Laws in force, re­lating to Fowling. 172

FISHING, & ANGLING. To the Ri [...] Worshipfull Sr. William Drake of Amersham in Buckinghamshire Knight

This plate is humbly Dedicated by Ric: Blome

[Page] [Page]

FISHING

[...] Rt. noble Christopher Duke of Albemarle, Earle of Torington, Baron Monke of Potheridge, Beauchamp and Teys, Kt. of ye Garter, Captaine of his Matys. life Guard, Ld. Leiutenant of Essex and Devonshire, one of the Gentlemen of his Matys. Bedchamber, and one of the Lord of his most Honourable Privy Councell &c.

This Plate of Fishing is most humbly Dedicated by Ric Blome.

FISHING.

PART V.
The Rules for Angling, as the choosing of Rods, Hooks, Lines, Corks, Floats, &c. with Directions for the taking all sorts of Fish, and the making of Baits proper for them, according to the Season of the Year and Weather. Also Instructions for the taking Fish, with several sorts of Nets, &c. Directions for preserving Fish in Rivers and Ponds, together with many Secrets and Curi­osities relating to the said Art.

CHAP. I.
The Introduction.

IT will not be necessary to trouble the Read­er with long Encomium's on this Delightful Art of Fishing, but only repeat the words of a Worthy and Ingenious Gentleman that 10 was a great proficient herein, who often used to say, That after his Study, it was a rest to his Mind, a chearer of his Spirits, a calmer of unquiet thoughts, a Diverter of Melancholy, a procurer of Contentedness and Patience, and a Moderator of Passions.

He that will be his Arts Master in this Innocent Recreation, must not only be experienced in the several Tackling, as the Rod, Line, Hooks, &c. But also must understand the Nature and Proper­ties 20 of each Fish, the proper Baits to take them according to the Season of the Year and Weather. And the better to embolden him to a progress herein, he must be endowed with Hope and Pati­ence. The first thing that I shall Treat of shall be the Rod. 30

CHAP. II.
Directions touching the choise of a Rod.

YOur Rod ought to be either of one entire piece, of two pieces, or of several Joynts; the former without doubt is the best, Art being but a Mimick of Nature; for in the Composing and Framing Artificial Rods, we do but imitate the Natural Ones, and think we have come near­est the Mark, when we have well Counterfeited them; But it is the Opinion of an expert Angler, that Rods of two Joynts are the best; for that n [...] shoot of any sort of Wood grows so exquisitely taper, as to make a Rod of fourteen Foot [...]on [...], (which is the usual Length): And if by great chance you should get one, the Peth of such a quick growing Wood, would cause the top to be brittle, and if of hard Wood, it would then be lop heavy; for the true Art of making a Rod is of a Rush Taper, which mu [...] Spring equally in all parts, for being stiff in the one and weak in the other, doth oft occasion the losing the Fish.

The Red Sallow, or Withe, and the Ground Ha­zel, streight and well grown taper-like from the bottom to the top, are of [...]ll others the most e­steemed as being the toughest and lighest, and yet strong enough to hold the bigest Fish. They [Page 178] should be gathered in the fall of the Leaf, when the Sap is in the Roots, for after January it as­conds into the Trunk and Branches, and then they are not good. Let them be the best Rush-ground Shoots you can get, not knotty, but proportio­nable streight and Slender; the Boughs and ex­crescent Twigs should be presently cut off, but not close, for sear of cutting any of the Bark, which is not only an Eyesore, but a weakning to it.10

Having thus prepared your Rods, lay them on a flat Floor with a good weight on them, to keep them from warping; but contrarywise some hang them against the Wall of a Room on small Tacks, with the great ends downwards, which is held the best way, and about February you may pare off the knots close; and when they are well sea­soned and fitted to your liking, [...]ix on the Loops of Silk or Hair at the small ends; but by the way note, that they are not fully seasoned till a­bout 20 a Year and a half; and if they were kept two Years, they would be the better.

For preserving of these Rods or Tops from rotting, or Worm eating, 'tis good to rub them over twice or thrice a year with Sallet or Linseed Oyl, or with Sweet Butter that hath no Salt in it, chasing it well in; and if the Stocks or Tops of your Rods cast with lying, Bath them, and set them in a gentle Straw Fire, which will bring them right again.30

Rods may be Distinguished into four Sorts, viz. the Trowling Rod, the Snaping Pole, the Angling Rod, and the Fly Rod.

The Trowling Rod is the largest, at the top of which is put a short piece of Wood, about six Inches long, with a strong Wire Ring to guide your Trowling Line.

The Snaping Pole ought to be so strong and large, as the Angler can well Manage, and to be of a Tough, and well grown Taper Pole of one 40 piece, and such that will bear a Fish of about ten or twelve pound weight, to throw out of the Water.

The Angle Rod ought to be of two, or more Joynts of Cane, or Wood as aforesaid.

The Fly Rod must be small, curiously Taper, and light to be managed with one Hand.

In a word, the great Art of making Rods is, that they be curiously Taper, and in all parts of a quick Spring proportionable; for if it is not 50 in all parts of an equal Spring, you will seldom strike sure, and by consequence endanger the lo­sing the Fish.

The top Rods being short, are to be joyned to Stocks, Art having supplyed the Defect of Na­ture. Your Stocks may be either of a good ground Ash, or Witch-hasel about nine or ten Foot long, gathered as aforesaid; and be sure it come not to the Fire until the Spring, then if you find it well Seasoned, set it exactly, otherwise allow 60 longer time. Take not off the outward Rind, and either by its own Nature, or your Art get it to be of a good brown Colour, so that it make no Reflection in the Water; if you mix a little Ca­pons Grease with Spanish Brown, and rub the Rod over therewith before a gentle Fire, you vvill quickly bring it to its right hue. In the small end of the Stock, bore a Hole vvith a Taper bit, about four Inches deep, and of a convenient size to receive the biggest end of the Top Rod, and have it Ferretted; and the reason of doing it so, is to preserve the Stock from Splitting where the Hole is made. Your Top Rod should be about a yard and a half long, with the upper rind pre­served intirely about it, and the top though pli­ant, yet must be so strong to endure the [...]erk of a Trout or Carp.

At the small end fasten the Loop either of Silk, or Hair, wherein to place the Line, but of all Tops questionless the Whalebone is the best, being plyant and strong.

The largest Joynt which is the outward Joynt, and carrieth all the rest as in a case, ought to be either a Female Bambu Cane, or else a red Sallow, these being the freest from warping, and a piece seven or eight Foot long vvill carry longer and better Taper Joynts than a piece of the same sort ten Foot long; and for the inward Joynts Hasel is the best, which Joynt or Joynts must be in length proportionable to the size of the outward Joynt, both to length, and to make it exactly a Rush Taper.

If your Rod be of many pieces, they are then of Canes or Hasel, exactly bored through to re­ceive each other, the ends being neatly hooped about with Sockets of Brass or Silver, as before taken notice of. And thus may you carry a Rod of fifteen or sixteen Foot long, like a walking Staff; but these being bought at the Shops of those that sell Fishing Tackle, and at such easy Rates, I shall say no more, advising you rather to buy them, than to be at the trouble to make them.

CHAP. III.
Of Lines, for the making, colouring, and preparing them.

FOr your Lines they are either all Hair, all Silk, or mixt with both; but Lines of all Silk (though handsom) are very inconvenient, because of their Twisting; so are Lines of Hair and Silk. Therefore make use of Lines of all Hair, for all sorts of Angling, which must be Tapervvise; so that near the Hook they may be of one or three Hairs. Next to Lines all of Hair, are those made of Raw Ardas Silk neatly Twisted, which in the Opinion of many are excellent, for these are far stronger and finer than Hair, and will not rot or twist in the Water, or else where. And for the Trowling or Snaping Lines, let them also be made of Raw Ardas Silk, worked with Bobbins, being far stronger than the coloured Silk Lines, and much smal­ler, and freer from Twisting.

Let all your Hair, as near as you can, be of an equal Bigness, and if you lay them about a quarter of an Hour in Water, you will find which [Page 179] of the Hairs do shrink, and such are not good. The best Hairs are plucked from the innermust middle of the Tayl of a White, or Grey Stone-Horse.

When you make a Line of Three Hairs, add one Thread of Silk, which is sufficient; if you make Lines of Five Hairs, add Two Threads of Silk, and if of Seven, then Three of Silk; this latter will be sufficient so the Chub, Barbel, Pike, nay Salmon; the second for the Carp, Trout, Greyling, 10 &c. and the first for the Gudgeon, Roach, Bleak, &c.

In twisting your Hair, great care must be used that they be exactly done, without Gaping and Snarles, and that they be strong tied at the ends with the Fishers Knots, which is folded Four times about, under and above. You must in drawing this Knot temper your Hair with some Water, or Spittle, for that will make it hold. For the length of your Lines they must be proportioned to the place, and the Fish you design to take, and your own 20 discretion must be your guide.

For the Colour of your Lines, they should as near as possible imitate the Colour of the Water, so that if your Hair be White, let your Silk be Green, for that mixture draws to a light Gray. If it be in a Muddy Stream, the Silk had best be of a drak Ash-Colour; But for your exact Wa­ter Green, Take a quart of small Ale, and boyl therein half a pound of Alom until it be dissolved, then put in the Hair, and let it boyl half an hour; 30 then take it out, and let it dry in the Shade a Night and a Day; then take Two Handfuls of Elder and boyl it half an hour in a Pottle of Wa­ter, until you see a Yellow Scum rise, then put in your Hair with about half a pound of beaten Copperice, or instead thereof, the like quantity of Verdigrease, or a quarter of a pound of each, and let the Water boyl about half an hour more; then take it off, and let your Hair lye therein four or five hours infusing, and you will have an excellent Green. To make your Hair Yellow, 40 steep it in Water wherein you have either boyled, or bruised two or three handfuls of Green Wal­nut Leaves. To make your Hair Russet, take a Pint of strong Lye, half a pound of Soot, and two spoonfuls of the Juice of Walnut Leaves, and when they are well boyled together, take it off the Fire, let it cool, and put therein the Hair, and let it continue until it be dyed enough; To make it darker put some Vmber into the Liquor. If you would have the Hair Tawny, bind it close 50 up at both ends, and steep it in Tanners Ouz until it be according to your liking; and if you did first steep the Hair in a little Lime-Water, it would take the Tawny Colour the better.

You must die your Hair before you make it up into Lines, for then you may mix it as you see cause. The Green Hair is good from March to September; from thence to December the Yel­low, and from thence to Easter the darkest Co­lours.60

At each end of your Line make a Loop, the one for your Rod-Loop, and the other for your Hook.

CHAP. IV.
Instructions relating to Corks, Flotes, &c.

TOuching your Flotes order them in this manner; Take the closest Cork you can get, and with a sharp Knife pare it very smooth about, which for size and form is left to your Judgment, it being only to shew you when and how the Fish are at your Bait; the lesser it is so much the better in this respect that it will not frighten the Fish away, then with a hot Iron bore a Hole through it, and therewith put a Goose-Quill of a fit size for the Cork, which must be fitted with regard to the proportion of your Line, and that again to the strength and dimensions of the Fish you design to take with the Line, as before noted in the second Chapter. The small end of the Cork must be towards the Hook, the Quill must be pegged into the Cork, and so your Line into the Quill, which you may raise or let down as you see cause.

Your Flotes are made of Mascovy-Duck Quills, or Swans-Quills which are held the best for Still Water; but the flat and round Flotes are esteem­ed the best.

When your Cork is gently drawn under Water then strike and not with too smart a Jerk, but on­ly to fasten your Hook, and then draw with an even touch according as you see cause. If your Tackling be strong, and your Fish large, you may be the bolder; but to go securely to work, never let the Fish feel the strength of the Line, lest he Snap it off; but hold him gently under the Rod, and let him tire out himself, which he will soon do by Eight, or Ten Plunges, and then you may draw him gently towards you; if you be too hasty you are not a good Fisher, for this Recre­ation requires great Patience, Industry, and Vigi­lance.

CHAP. V.
Rules for the Chusing, making and fixing your Hooks, Plumets, and for sounding the depths of Wa­ter.

AS for your Hooks chuse them in proportion according to the size of the Fish, you in­tend to Catch; Therefore as for the making them follow these directions. Take either Old Spanish Needles, or strong Wier, drawn to the same height of temper, that being nealed and laid in the Fire you may bend at pleasure. If you make them of Needles, it is but holding them in the Fire [Page 180] or in the Blaze of a Candle, until they be Red-hot; then let them cool, and you may turn them into what Form you please; but for Wyer you must use a Charcoal-Fire, and turn it up and down until it be Red-hot, then let it cool, and so work it. First, File out the Point of the Hook, which must be neither too sharp, nor too dull; for the one will be too quick to catch every thing, and the other will hit nothing: let it be therefore sharper than a Pin, and some­what 10 duller than a Needle; then with a sharp Knife raise up the Barb, or Beard, wherein be careful not to weaken the strength of the Hook too much; then with a Pair of Plyars form your Hook rounder than a Semicircle, and let the Bow come in enough, so as to be hooked; for it is that which chiefly holds the Fish, and not the Barb, as by Experience hath been often found; for the Taperer all Hooks are filed, the stronger they are to hold a Fish. 20

The Shank of your Hook should be of a mo­derate length, a little flatter towards the End, and knobbed, for the better fastning it to your Warp of Hair, or Line. You must then Polish it all over, heat it Red-hot in a Pan of Charcoals, put it suddenly into the Water, and that will bring it to its true strength and hardness.

By this Direction you may likewise Form your double Hooks, which are two Hooks made of one Wyer, joyned Back to Back, and turned 30 the contrary way from each other, with a strong Wyer to the Stem, or Shank, about three or four Inches long, and a Link fixed thereto with fine small Wyer, and unto this last Link fasten your Line, or else the Teeth of the Pike will soon shear it off.

For the fastning your Length, or Link of Hair, to the Hook, do thus: Lay it on the inside of the Shank, and so whip it about with a small Silk-thread well Waxed, and neatly done, with­out 40 any Knot in the Hair, and fasten the Ends of the Silk, by drawing them under your Bows at the two or three last Turns; then cut off the Ends of the Hairs which you turned from the Hook, and it is no ordinary twitch which can separate one from the other. On the other End of that Link of Hairs make a Loop, to fasten the remaining Line thereunto.

In case you Plum your Line, observe these Di­rections: Your Plumets must be of Lead, some 50 bigger, some less, with relation to the proportions of the Hook, Line, Cork, &c. the End of the Plu­mets being to sink down your Hook and Line, that it may lye either towards the Middle, or Bottom of the Water, as you design to Fish; but they must not be so heavy as to sink the Floats. Your first Plu [...]et may be about twelve Inches from the Ho [...]k, and the rest about an Inch distant from each other; and of these you may use five, seven, nine, or as you see occasion; for the form 60 of the Plamets it is not material, provided they be smooth, for otherwise they will endanger the tangling of the Line, catching filth, or the like; yet some are of Opinion, that more than one Plu [...]et is inconvenient.

To be exact in Pluming and Corking, you should know to an Inch the depth of the Water where you Fish; for which purpose you must have a Musket-Bullet bored through with a dou­ble Thread tyed at it, which Thread being laid over your Hook you may therewith Sound the Bottom, and then Plumb and Cork accord­ingly.

That you may not incommode your Tackle, it will be requisite to keep every Thing or Uten­sil apart, and that you be provided with all your Tackle upon occasion, as your Bob and Palmer, your Hooks of several sizes; also your Corks, Flies, Silk, Thread, Lead, &c. each in its several Box; likewise your Linnen and Woollen Bags, for your several Baits; also a Whetstone, to sharpen your Hooks; and forget not to be provided with a small Pole with a Loop at the End thereof, to which a small Net may be fastned for your Landing of great Fish; and be sure let not your Paunder be too heavy, those that are made of Osiers are the best.

CHAP. VI.
Cautions to be observed in Angling, as to the Seasons of the Weather, the Time of the Day and Year, &c.

IN Angling so place your self that your Sha­dow do not at any time rest on the Water; but in very deep Waters that is not so necessary to be observed, yet to be exact you should use all the Advantages the place will afford.

In a Pond you should Angle near the Foard where Cattle go to drink; and in Rivers, in those places where such sorts of Fish that you in­tend to Angle for do usually frequent, viz. the Chub in deep shaded Holes; Roach and Pearch in Scowrs; Eels under hanging-over Banks; Trouts in quick Streams, and with a Fly upon the Stream on the Top of the Water; and for Breams in the deepest and quietest part of the River. And if in such places where the Gravelly Bottom may be discerned, then be sure to conceal your self as much as possible. In Waters pestered with Weeds, Roots of Trees, and such like, Fish lye close and warm, and resort thither in great Shoals, there they will Bite freely; but take great care how to cast in the Hook, and how to strike a Bite, for the least Rashness loseth Hook and Line. But in case your Hook be at any time entangled, you should be provided with a Ring of Lead some six Inches about, which fasten to a small long Packthread, and thrust the Ring over your Rod, letting it go into the Water, and work it gently up and down with your Packthread, and it will soon disengage your Hook.

It is good Angling in Whirlpools, under Bridges, at the Falls of Mills, and in any place where the Water is deep and clear, and not troubled with Wind, or Weather. The best Times are from [Page]

Angling.

To the Right Worshipfull Sr John Bellciv of Belleivs [...]Town in the County of Meath in Ireland Kt. whose family for many descents have been Knighted for their service to ye Crown▪ This Plate is humbly dedicated by Richard Blome

[Page] [Page 181] April to October, for in cold, stormy and windy Weather Fish will not Bite; and the best times of the Day are from Three to Nine in the Morn­ing, and from Three in the Afternoon to Sun­set. If the Wind be Easterly 'tis in vain to go forth to Angle, any other of the Points are well enough, if it blow not hard; but the South is the best, and a close, lowring warm Day, with a gentle Wind, and after a sudden Shower, to di­sturb the Water, at which time they will best 10 rise at the Fly and Bite eagerly, and therefore the most to be desired by the Angler; and the cooler the Weather is in the hottest Months it is the better. In Winter all Weathers, and all Times are much alike, only the Warmest are the best.

It is very good Angling a little before the Fish Spawn, for then their Bellies being full, they frequent Sandy Foards, to rub and loosen their Bellies, at which time they will freely Bite.20

After a clear Moonshine Night, if the Day prove Dull and Cloudy 'tis very good Angling; for in such Nights they are fearful to stir to get food, lying close, so that being hungry the next Day will boldly and eagerly Bite.

At the opening of Sluces, or Mill-Dams, if you go with the Course of the Water you can hardly miss of Fish, that swim up the Stream, to seek for what food the Water brings down with it.30

In Waters that Ebb and Flow, 'tis best Angling at the Ebb; but if the Tides are not strong, then the Flood is to be preferred.

At any time when you perceive the Trouts to Leap pleasantly at the Flies above Water, or the Pikes to pursue other Fish, then it is a good time to Angle.

I have shewed the most proper Seasons for Angling; there are other Times as improper, and such are after great Rains, whilst the Waters are 40 violent and discoloured: In the extremity of Heat, when the Earth is parched with Drought, especially in Muddy or clear Shallow Rivers: At the Fall of the Leaf; not soon after Spawning time, for then their Appetite is much abated; nor is it good to Angle near such places where Husbandmen wash their Sheep, for that kills all sorts of Fish: To conclude, The Experienced Angler must observe the Times, Seasons, and Places, otherwise his Baits, though never so good,50 will be but little effectual.

CHAP. VII.
Concerning the Natures of Fish, in what Waters and Soils they de­light.60

I Shall next descend to the particular Nature of Fish, and consequently to the Rules to take them.

Carps, Eels, Tench, Breams, Chevins, and Pikes, delight most in standing Waters, and still Pools; the three former in Muddy Bottoms, the latter in Sandy. Salmons, Trouts, Perch, Gudgeons, Bar­bels, Chubs, Roach, and Dace, delight in Runing-Streams▪ the former in the Swiftest and Deepest places thereof, the latter in still Pools and Shady places of the same Brooks and Waters. The Shad, Mullet, and some others, delight in such Waters as Ebb and Flow, provided the Floods be not exceeding Salt.

In this Chapter I have been very brief, by reason I intend to be more large when I speak of each Fish in particular.

CHAP. VIII.
Concerning Baits Natural and Li­ving, Artificial and Dead, &c. with Directions for the Making and Preparing them, &c.

THere are three sorts of Baits for taking Fish; First, the Natural ones, and those are generally Living, as Worms of all kinds, especially the Red, Maggots, Bobs, Frogs, Grass­hoppers, Bees, Beetles, Dors, Butterflies, which are admirable for the Chubs; Wasps, Hornets, Snails, small Fish, &c. Next, the Artificial Baits, and they are of two sorts; first, such as imitate the Living Baits, especially Flies, for every Month and Season in the Year, nay, almost for every Fish, so great is the variety of them that frequent the Meadows and Rivers. These Flies are made on the Bodies of your Hooks, the Body of the Fly being made of Wool, and the Wings of several sorts of Feathers coloured to the life, to resemble those you counterfeit; and with these you draw your Hook gently on Top of the Water, and generally against the Stream, and the Fish will Bite at them with such greediness, that you can hardly miss a Bite.

The second sort of Artificial Baits are Paists, which are made of several Compositions, as the young Brood of Bees and Wasps, clotted Blood of Sheep, Cheese, Whitebread, Corn, Seeds, Bramble-Berries, Flowers, &c. of all which I shall speak more particularly in their due places, when I come to treat particularly of the ways of taking each sort of Fish; however a word or two.

The Red-Worm is good for small fish the whole Year about, and small Fish are good Baits for Pikes at all times; Sheeps-Blood and Cheese is a good Bait in April; the Bob, dryed Wasps and Bees are for May; Brown-flies are for June; Mag­gots, Hornets, Wasps and Bees, for July: Snails for August; Grasshoppers for September; Corn, Bram­ble-Berries, and Seeds, at the Fall of the Leaf: Your Artificial Paists are for May, June, and J [...]y; and Frogs are for March.

[Page 182] Now as concerning your Artificial Flies, The great Dun-fly will do well enough the latter end of Fe­bruary, if there be fair Weather, for 'tis a sign the Air is warm, and that the Fish begin to par­take of the Suns Heat, so that in reason you may expect they will bite freely; The little Dun-fly is proper for March; The Stone or May-flye is for April; The Red and Yellow-fly for May; The Black, Dark, Yellow, and Moorish fly for June; The Wasp, and Shell-flye for July; and the Clou­dy 10 or Blackish-fly is for August. But generally Fish most eagerly rise at these Flies, at the Season when most sorts of Flies resort to the Wa­ter side.

The best way to make these Flies, is to get the living ones of the several kinds; and thereby to imitate Nature both for Shape, Colour and Size, for the nearer the better. Those Fish that Bite freest at Flies are Chubs, Chevins, Trouts, and Salmons. 02

The great Dun-flye is thus made, let the Body be of Black-wooll, and the Wings of the Dun-fea­thers of a Drakes Tail. The little Dun-flye hath his Body made of Dun-wooll, and his Wings of the Mayle of a Partridge; these are for March. The Body of the Stone or May-flye must be of Black-wooll, but under his Wings and Tail give it a little tincture of a pale yellow, with some Silk of that colour, and his Wings must be of Drakes Down; this Fly is for April. The Red, 30 or Ruddy-fly must have his Body made of Reddish-wooll, capt about with black Silk, and the Wings mixt of the Mayle of a Mallard, and the red Feathers of a Capons Tail; this Fly is for May. The Yellow or Greenish-fly must have his Body made of Black-wooll, with a Yellow List on either side, and the Wings of a Red Cocks Mayle. The Moorish-fly hath his Body made of Duskish-wooll, and the Wings of the blackish Mayle of a Drake. The Tawny-flye must be made of Tawny-Wooll, 40 the Wings made contrary one against the other, of the whitish Mayle of a White Drake; these Flies are for June. The Wasp-fly is made of Black-wooll, capt about with Yellow Silk; and the Wings of a Buzzards Down, or of a Drakes Feathers; this Fly is for July. The Shell-flye Termed also the Green-fly, hath his Body made of Greenish-wooll, and the Wings of the Herle of a Peacocks Tail; this is also for July. The Cloudy Dark-fly must be made after a different way, for it must be formed on a small piece of Cock, bound about with Black-wooll, 50 and Black-silk, and his Wings of the un­der Mayle of a Mallard with a black Head; when you draw it on your Hook, be sure no part of the Hook is discerned; this Fly is for Au­gust.

The rougher the Bodies of your Flies are, and the more shining, the better are they esteemed; and when you have got a Set of good exact Flyes, they will serve you many Years, if care­fully kept in a handsom Box free from bruising 60 and crushing. Observe this for a Rule, that the highest Flyes are for cloudy and dark weather, and the darkest for the bright and clear Wea­ther.

It is not amiss to lay down some Directions to be observed, for Artificial Fly-Fishing. First, ob­serve to have the Wind in your Back, and in casting off your Line, be sure that the Fly fall first to the Water. For every sort of Fly have se­veral of the same, differing in colour to suit with the several Waters and Weathers. In slow Rivers, or still places cast your Line as far as you can, and let it sink a little, then gently draw it back; and let the Fly float leasurely with the Current. When you Angle after Rain, and that the Wa­ter begins to become clear, use the Red-fly for dark Waters, keep not near the Water side, and Fish down Stream; and let not your Line touch the Water, but only the Fly. Your Line should be as long again as your Rod, unless the River be very shallow, and clogged up. You must have a nimble Hand, and a quick Eye to strike pre­sently upon the rising of the Fish, otherwise the Fish will be apt to spew out the Hook, as finding his mistake.

I shall next proceed to Live Baits, which are to be kept each sort by themselves; and to be fed with such things as they use to eat, when at liberty.

The Red-worm delights much in black fat Earth; and if you mix therewith some Fennel small chopt, they will very much improve; and sometimes give them a little Ox, or Cow Dung newly made: They may be kept in some little Bag, or Box.

But Red-worms, as also all other sort of Worms scour quick, grow very tuff and bright, by put­ting them into a thin Clout greased with Fresh Butter, or Grease, before you put them into Moss, which of all things is best to keep them in, and the Moss must be prepared by washing it very clean, and squeezing out the Water; and for the Feeding them, drop a spoonful of Cream into the Moss every three or four Days; and remove the Moss every week, keeping it in a cool place. And note that a Dead Mans Skull beaten to Pow­der for the Worms to scour in, is excellent.

White great Magots are to be fed with Sheeps Tallow, and Beasts Livers cut small.

Frogs and Grashoppers will do well in wet Moss and long Grass, which must be every Night moistned; when you use them cut off their Legs, and Wings.

The Bob, Cadis-worm, Canker, and such like are to be preserved with the same things where you take them.

Live-flyes must be used as you catch them.

The Wasp, Hornet, and Humble-Bee may be dryed in an Oven after the Bread is drawn, but be careful of scorching them, then dip their Heads in Sheeps Blood, which must be dryed on, and so keep them in a clean Box; and they will continue good a quarter of a Year.

In the last place touching Compounded Paists, there are as many several sorts, as there are Me­dicins for the Tooth Ach; I shall take notice of some few, and such as are excellent and appro­ved Secrets, reserving others to be Treated of in their due places, when I come to speak of the particular ways of taking each sort of Fish.

If you take Bean-flower, and those parts of the Rabets Legs called the Almonds, or if it be of a fat young Whelp, or Cat, will do as well, add [Page 183] to them a like quantity of Sheeps Suet, and Vir­gins Wax, and beat them in a Morter till they are Incorporated into one Body; then temper it with clarified Honey before a Gentle Fire, and make it up into Bolls. When you use it, bait your Hooks Artificially with a little thereof, and you will find a notable Attractive quality in it. It will keep good at least a Year.

If you take the Kidney Tallow of a Sheep, and a like quantity of new Cheese, and beat them to­gether,10 then adding so much Wheat-flower as will stiffen it; and kneading it before a Fire, allaying the stiffness of the Paist with soft Honey, 'tis an excellent Bait for all or most Fish, and will keep good a long time.

Honey with the Crums of White-bread, made up stiff, is a good Bait for drawing Fish to it.

It is said that all strong Smells whether sweet or stinking will attract Fish, such as Musk, Assa­setida, 20 Sperm [...]icaeti, Oyl of Bays, Turpentine, G [...]mmae-haederae; and likewise the sight of fine Colours, especially of Flowers, which have also a fine smell.

The next thing to be considered is the Floating in a Pond, or River for Scale Fish, and then take notice that Feed brings them together: Now there is no better Feed to be cast in than Blood and Grains, although Paist is very good. Also Crums of Houshold Bread mixt with Mans Dung 30 and made into Paist, is said to be admirable to attract Fish, especially all white-s [...]aled Fish. Also Paist made of bruised Hempseed is very at­tractive.

CHAP. IX.
Some General Observations, Di­rections,40 and Cautions to be observed in Angling.

IT is Customary for every Angler to have his peculiar Haunt. Now for the attracting to­gether the Fish in such a place, once in four or five Days cast in some Corn boyled soft; also you 50 may cast in Garbage, Worms chopt into pieces, or Grains s [...]eept in Blood and dryed; But for Carp and Tench throw in some Ground Malt to keep them together.

If you Fish in a Stream, then cast in your Grains above your Hook down the Stream.

If when you are a Fishing, you would know what Bait the Fish at that time best love, when you have taken one, slit the Gill, and take out his Stomack, and open it without bruising; and 60 you will there find what he last fed on, and ac­cordingly bait your Hook.

In Fishing have a great care of wearing light and dazeling Apparel, but choose those that are dark, or sad coloured; also if possible shelter your self under some Bush, or Tree, or stand so far from the Bank side, that you can only discern the Float; for Fish are Timerous and Fearful of every thing they see.

The best way of Angling with the Fly is down the River, not up; and if you would have them to bite freely, be sure of having such Baits as they are Naturally inclined unto; and in such manner as they are accustomed to receive them. If your Baits be of Paist, as before noted, for the keeping them on your Hooks, add a little Flax or Wool. The Eyes of Fish are said to be good Baits for all Fish.

Keep your Rod neither too dry nor too moist, for the one will make it brittle, and the other rotten.

CHAP. X.
Of the Natures, Qualities, &c. Of Several sorts of Fish, with Directions to take them.

THe GVDGEON is a small but excel­lent Fish, being not much inferior to the Smelt, for an excellent pleasant Tast; he Spawas three or four times in the Summer Season, and delights in swift Streams and gravelly bottoms, lying low, so that he seldom bites eagerly; and if once he be struck, you can hardly lose him, being a leather Mouthed Fish. Your Bait must always Trail gently on the Ground, whether you use Float or not; some use a Runing-Line, without Cork or Float as for the Trout, but of all Baits the small Red-worm is the best; also Wasps, Gen­tles and Cad-baits are very good. In the Heat of Summer this Fish lyes scattered up and down in shallow places of the River; but in the Cold Weather they betake themselves to deep places, and accompany together. If you would catch store of this Fish, be provided with a long Pole, to stir up the Sand and Gravel, which will gather them together; and cause them to Bite more eagerly.

The ROACH is a leather Mouthed Fish, and being once struck, seldom loseth his hold, having his Teeth in his Throat, as all leather Mouthed Fish have; this is no delicate Fish, being so full of Bones, the best part is the Spawn; he is ve­ry easily taken, biting eagerly; and as the Carp for his cuning is esteemed the Water-fox, so this for his Simplicity is Termed the Water-sheep. They are great Storers of Ponds and Rivers, but those in the former are of less Esteem, though not so long.

This Fish Spawns about the middle of May. The general Baits are small white Snayls, Cad­baits, Bobs, Sheeps-blood, all sorts of Worms, Gnats, Wasps and Paist; In April the Cadis, or Worms are proper; In the Hot Summer Months the White Snayls and Flies; but note they must be under Water, for they will not bite at the Top. In August any slight Paist made of Bread and Honey kneaded into a Paist, will serve well [Page 184] enough; this will also serve in the Winter, but Gentiles are esteemed a better Bait in the cold Weather: You must Fish about a Handful from the bottom. The Black Ant-fly which is plenti­fully to be found in Ant or Mole-hills about Au­gust, if it hath her Wings entire, is an excellent Bait, the like is the short thick white Worm, which is usually found at the Plow-Tail, at the breaking up of the Ground. Also young Wasps and Bees their Heads being dipt in Blood are 10 excellent Baits. There are several other good Baits, as Sheeps Blood dryed hard, mixt with a little Salt to drain out the wateryness, and cut into small pieces; also take a handful, or two of good Wheat, boil it in Milk till it be soft, then gently fry it with Honey, and a little beaten Saf­fron dissolved in Milk.

DACE are much of the same Nature of the Reach, so that what Directions you find for the one, may serve for the other, with this Distincti­on,20 that Dace will Bite towards the top of the Water very freely, but better at the bottom: If you boil a Handful of Wheat in a little Milk un­til it be soft, and then fry it gently with some Honey, so that you break not the Wheat, 'tis an excellent Bait, especially if in the frying you add a little Saffron dissolved in two or three Spoon­fuls of Milk. The several sorts of Cadis-Worms, are also all proper Baits for this Fish. It will Bite at any Fly, but principally at Ant-flies, of 30 which the blackish found in Mole-Hills, in June, July, August and September, are the best; for preserving them for use, put them alive into a Glass-Bottle, in which is some of the Earth from whence they are taken, with some of the Roots of the Grass of the Hillock; then lay a Clod of Earth over it, and they will keep good a Month or two, provided you bruise not their Wings. The best time to take them is, when they Swarm, which is about the latter end of July, and begin­ning 40 of August. The White Worm with the Red-head, found in new broken up Grounds that are Heathy or Sandy, are excellent Baits for the Winter. If you put them into a Vessel with some of the Earth from whence they were ta­ken they may be preserved all the Win­ter.

The CHVB is known by the Name of a Cheven, or Chavender, in several places; he Spawns in March, is very full of forked Bones, and eats 50 very Waterish: Of all Fish, he is best to enter a young Angler, as being very easy to be taken greedily biting the Bait; and although he is a Leather Mouthed Fish, and will not easily get free, yet being strong, you must give him play, for fear of breaking your Line. He delights to lie on the Top of the Water, but is of that fear­ful quality, that he will sink down at the Shadow of any thing that he espies, were it a Bird that flyeth over the Water, but he soon riseth up a­gain.60

Now for the taking this Fish observe these Di­rections; Find out some Hole (for he delights in such places, and Pools rather than in Rivers), and in a hot day several of them will lie floating al­most on the surface of the Water; and having your Tackle in readiness, and your Hook baited with a Grashopper (which for that Season is best) be sure so to order your business (by absconding your self behind some Tree) that you are not espi­ed; then cast in your Hook gently about Two Foot before the Chub, that you design to take, and you will hardly miss him: For want of a Grashopper you may use any great Fly, Beetle, or Dor, having his Wings cut off, and in Winter the Brains of a Horse is a most certain Bait to take them; for they bite so greedily at it in the extre­mity of Winter, that you may in a manner clear a River of them, and indeed they will greedily Bite at any Bait.

In Hot Weather Angle for him near the Top of the Water, and in Cold near the Bottom; In March, and April Bait with Worms; In May, June, and July, with Flyes, Snayls, &c. and in August, Sep­tember, &c. use Paists.

TROVTS are not only a delicate Fish, but afford great pleasure in taking them. They Bite either high or low at Flies or Ground-Baits, in Pooles or in swift Streams: Tis pity he is not always in Season, yet he comes in and goes out with good Company, viz. the Stag and Buck. His chief de­light is in hard Gravels. The Spawns in October, and November, which is contrary to the Nature of other Fish, which Spawn in the Spring, which is a Season most fit for generation.

The Trout is always lowsy, lean, and unwhol­som, in Cold Weather; but when it begins to be Warm, he gathers strength, and forsaking the still and deep Streams, keepeth in the Gravelly and shal­low Waters, for the rubing and cleansing himself from his Lowsiness; these Lice are a small Worm, with a pretty big Head, and stick close to his Sides, sucking away his Moisture.

The Baits most proper for the Trout are Worms, Minnows, or Flies, either Natural or Artificial; and of all Worms, those called the Dew-Worm, Lob-Worm, and the Brandling, found in old Dung-hills are the best.

By the way remember that in Fishing with Worms, you always clap them alive on your Hook, and get such as are strong and lusty, such as will stir and move a good while in the Water on your Hook; for when once they are dead, it is to little purpose to keep them on. For the preserva­tion of these Worms, keep them in a Box with Moss, to nourish them, which must be often shif­ted, and their Food as often changed, especially in the Summer Season.

If you Fish with the Minow, or Stickle-bag, let it not be too big; or for want of Natural Mi­nows, use Artificial ones; all the skill is in Bait­ing your Hook, which must be hid in the Mouth of the Minnow, and let the Point a little come out of his Gill, but his Body must be strait.

Use neither Cork nor Plumet when you Fish for the Trout, either with Minnows or Flies, Natural or Artificial. Now concerning the Flies, I have already treated how to make them, however a word or two more. If you can Bait your Hook with a Natural Live Fly, such an one as you perceive to use the Water at that time, and at which the Trouts, leap that is best; and next to that an Artificial Fly exactly made, for which take the assistance of some Expert Fly-Maker; for [Page 185] one Ocular Observation will make a deeper im­pression than Twenty Verbal Lectures, for Ex­ample teacheth better than Precept.

In carrying your Rod, move it with an even hand, so as your Fly may gently touch the Top of the Water, cutting the Stream as it were just as you shall see the Natural Flies do.

As for Paists they are not very kindly for Trouts, unless for old large ones, which are difficult to be got out of their Holes, unless by Night; for 10 they are as crafty as old beaten Hares. When you suspect that any lie concealed in Holes, then go out in the Evening and Bait your Hook with any Paist, drawing it gently on the Top of the Water; and the Trout will then make to it very greedily; but be sure lie concealed if it be Moon­shine, for this Fish is exceeding quick-sighted, and very coy, so that the Mornings and Evenings, are the best, except in Gloomy Weather.

The EEL was by the Romans esteemed the 20 Helena of their Feasts, as being so dainty a Fish; most men differ about their Breeding, for some are of Opinion, that they Breed by Generation as o­ther Fish, whist others say, that they are Bred of Mud, or other putrifaction of the Earth (as are Rats, Mice, and many other Creatures) and deny them to have either Spaw, or Melt; others hold that when they grow Old, Breed others out of the Corruption of their Old Age; and others are of Opinion, that they are Bred of a particular 30 Dew that falls in the Months of May or June, on the Banks of Rivers or Ponds, which in a few days, by the heat of the Sun, is turned into small Eels; and these are by some called Yelvers.

It is by Experience found, concerning the Breed­ing of Eels, That take two large Turfs of Grass, which cut about a Foot square and Three Inches thick, lay them Grass to Grass, tie them together with Pack-Thread, and lay them in a Pond in May, and they will Bred Eels; and this may be 40 done for the storing Ponds therewith.

The most Curious have distinguished Eels into four sorts, viz. the Silver Eel; the Greenish Eel, which is called a Greg; the Blackish Eel, which hath a broad flat Head, and the Eel with Redish Fins. I shall only speak of the Silver Eel, which is believed to be Bred by Generation, and not by Spawning, the young coming forth alive from her about the length and bigness of a middle sized Pin; and this sort is esteemed the best and deli­catest 50 Dish

Eels delight in Muddy Banks, and in Rotten Roots of Old Trees, that grow on the Banks of Rivers. The best places to Fish for them with an Angle are at Mill-Ponds, Wears, Bridges, great Falls, and the like; Your Lines must be strong, not very long, well Plumed, and must have a good round Hook without a Cork; for you must hold your Line stiff, and not to pull smartly, but suffer him first to tire himself. They seldom stir 60 out of their Holes during the Winter Season, but keep in the Mud; nor do they much stir abroad at any Season in the Day, so that the most proper time to take them is in the Night.

The best Baits to take them are the Red Worm, the Minnow, pieces of Sheeps, or Hens-Guts, young Lampries, or Lamperns, but above all, pieces of raw powdred Beef; Now the ways to take Eels with the said Baits are as followeth: Fasten your Line to the Bank-side with your laying Hooks in the Water, or you may throw in a Line with good store of Hooks Baited and Plum'd with a Float, to discover where the Line lieth, that when you come in the Morning, you may take it up with your Drag-Hook.

Bobing for EELS.

THere is a way to take Eels, viz. Bobing, that is take very large Lobs, scour them well, and with a Needle run some strong twisted Silk through them from End to End; then take so many as to wrap them about a Board, at least a dozen times, and tie them fast with the two Ends of the Silk that they may hang in so many Hanks; then fasten all to a strong Cord, and a­bout Four Inches above the Worms fasten a Plum of about Three quarters of a Pound, and so fasten your Cord to a strong Pole: Having thus your Tackle ready, choose a Muddy Place to Fish in, and when you think they have swallowed them as far as they can, draw up your Line gently, and bring them to Shoar.

Snigling for EELS.

THere is another way to take Eels, called Snigling; this is done in the Day, and af­ter this manner: Take a strong Line and Hook Baited with a Lob, or Garden Worm, and obser­ving such Holes and places where they use to lie (as near Wears, Mills, or Flood Gates) and gently by the help of a Stick, putting your Bait into such Holes or Places where you think they lie, you will hardly miss taking them; but be careful of pulling it out too boisterously.

Eels are also taken by Eel Spears, which you are to strike into the Mud to the bottom, where they lie. These Spears are common and known to all. And this way is best in Winter, for then they lie in deep, Muddy, Sedgy-Beds. many toge­ther.

FLOVNDERS delight in Brackish Streams, wherein the Salt-Water Ebbs and Flows, as the Thames, Medway, Severn, and the like; yet will they get up a good way into Fresh Streams, where they will thrive very well. It is a Fish that affords good sport to the Angler, and are greedy biters; nevertheless they are crafty, so that you must not let your Bait lie still to draw them on the more eagerly. The Months most proper to Fish for them are in April, May, June, and July, at any time of the Day; they delight to lie either in a swift Stream, or in the still Deep, but chiefly in the Stream. The best Baits are the Red Worms, Wasps and Gentles, your Line must be strong, and Plumbed within Eight Inches of your Hook. The Flounder will thrive and grow exceedingly in Ponds, but will not Breed there.

The CHAR is a Fish not known to be taken any where but in Wimander-Meer, in Lancashire; It is esteemed a delicate Dish, and is oft used for Pies, and sent to London for Presents. 'Tis a Spotted Fish, like a Trout, and seldom exceeds a [Page 186] Foot and an half in length, being free from Bones, having scarce any but what is on his Back. This Fish is for the generality taken with Nets.

The GVINIAD is an excellent Fish, and only found in Pemble-Meer, and generally taken also with Nets.

The GRALING, and the VMBER, are by some esteemed all one Fish, but differ in size, as the Herring and Pilcher, and are much of the nature and property of the Trout, but scarce 10 so big. They delight in clear swift Streams, with Sandy Shoars, and are taken with the same Baits, and after the same manner; but especially the Fly is the chief Bait, at which he is very greedy and bold. He is no Leather-mouthed Fish, therefore easily lost after he is struck. In the Winter he lyeth very close; but after April he appears, and is easily taken. But the best Fishing for the Graling is to go into the Water, and to stir up the Gravel and Sand with your 20 Feet, or with a Pole; and then with a Worm Fish down the Stream, where the Water runs thick.

You should do well to Head your Hook upon the Shank, with a very slender narrow Plate of Lead, and let it be slenderer at the Bent of the H [...]ok, that the Bait may the easier come over it; and keep your Bait always in Motion.

The STICKLE-BAG is a small prickly Fish without Scales, and not Fished for, but for 30 Baits to catch other Fish.

The MINNOW is also a small Fish with­out Scales, and used also for a Bait for other Fish. It is a great Spawner, and serveth as well for a Prey, as for a Bait for Fish; the like is the Stickle-bag.

The BARBEL is a Leather-mouthed Fish, and though he seldom breaks his hold when hooked, yet he oft breaks both Rod and Line, if he proves to be a big one. The Male is 40 esteemed much the best, but neither very good. They swim together in great Shoals, and are at their worst in April, about which time they Spawn, but soon come in Season. This Fish loves to frequent Weedy places, and in a Gravelly rising Ground, wherein he is said to Root with his Nose, like a Hog: In the Summer he also fre­quents the strongest Swifts of the Water, as deep Bridges, or Wears, &c. amongst the Piles, Hollow Places, and Weeds; but in the Winter he retires 50 into deep Waters, and there helps the Female to make a Hole in the Sand for her Spawn, which she hideth from being devoured by other Fish. It is a very cuning and curious Fish for his Baits, for if they be not clean, sweet, and well scoured, and kept in sweet Moss he will not Bite, which if well ordered, and curiously kept, he will Bite with great eagerness; the best Bait is the Spawn of a Salmon Trout, or any other Fish; and if you would have good Sport, Bait the places where 60 you intend to Fish therewith a Night or two be­fore, or with big Worms cut into pieces; and the earlier in the Morning, or later in the Evening that you Fish, it is the better; Also the Lob-worm is a very good Bait: Be sure to cover all your Hook with the Bait. Your green Gentles are also a very good Bait, and so are bits of tough Cheese, laid a steep about Twenty four Hours in Clari­fied Honey; and if you Bait the Ground with the same you can hardly miss taking them, if there be any. Your Rod and Line must be both long and strong, and let him tire himself before you Land him; for it is a strong Fish, and will struggle much.

BREAMS are of two sorts, the one a salt, and the other a fresh Water Fish, but differ little from each other as to Tast, Shape, or Nature. The fresh Water ones breeds in Ponds and Ri­vers, but delight best in the former, and are generally fairer and fatter in them than in Rivers. It is a lusty strong Fish, so that your Tackling must be very good; he hath two Sets of Teeth, is a very great Breeder; the Melter being ob­served to have two large Melts, and the Spawner as many Bags of Spawn, and Spawneth in June and July. The best Season for Angling for him, is from St. James-Tide until Bartholomew-Tide.

This Fish is a great lover of Red Worms, especially such as are to be found at the Root of great Docks, also Flag-worms, Wasps, Green­flies, Grashoppers, which must have their Legs cut off, and Paist, of which there are many sorts, which are found very good Baits for him; but the best are made of Brown-Bread and Honey, Gentles, young Wasps, Grass-hoppers, and the Red Worms.

It is a curious Fish to be taken with Hook and Line, therfore observe these Directions, which may also further you in your Carp-fishing, which is much of the same Nature. Get a Quart of large Red Worms, and in about three Weeks they will be throughly scoured, if you put them into fresh Moss well washt and dryed every three or four Days, feeding them with fat Mould and chopt Fennel.

Your Lines should be Silk and Hair; but the best are all Silk. Your Floats should be Swan-Quill Float, or large Goose-Quills. For your Plumb take a piece of Lead fashioned like a Pear, with a small Ring at the little End of it; fasten your Lead to your Line, and your Line-Hook to your Lead, about ten or twelve Inches space be­tween Hook and Lead is sufficient, and be sure your Lead is heavy enough to sink the Float. Your Hook being well baited, and your Worm strong, the Worm will draw your Hook up and down on the Bottom, which will provoke the Bream to bite the more eagerly.

If you fit three or four Rods and Lines in this manner, and set them as shall be directed, your Sport will be much the better. Get the exact Depth of the Water (if possible) that your Float may lye just equal with the Water, directly over your Lead. Then provide this following Ground-Bait; Take about a Peck of sweet Gross-ground Malt, and boyl it a very little; then strain it hard through a Bag, and carry it to the Water­side where you have Sounded, and where you suppose the Fish do frequent, there throw in the said Malt by Handfuls, well squeezed, that the Stream may not separate it before it comes to the Bottom; and be sure to cast it in at least a Tard above the place where you intend your [Page 187] Hook shall Lodge, otherwise the Stream will carry it somewhat down. Do this about Nine of the Clock at Night, and preserve some of your Malt in your Bag, and about Three in the Morn­ing Visit the place, but with great care at a di­stance, least you are espied by them; for it is certain, that they have their Sentinels watching on the Top of the Water, whilst the rest feed under; then dexterously Bait your Hook, so that the Worm may crawl too and fro the better to 10 entice the Fish to bite; and where you find the Fish to play most, and stay longest (which is generally in the deepest and broadest part of the River) there cast it in, that it may rest about the midst of your Bait that is on the Ground. Cast in your second Line to rest about a Yard above that, and a third about a Yard below it. Let your Rods lye on the Bank, with some Stones▪ or the like, to stay them at the great Ends, and then withdraw your self, yet so as 20 to have in your Eye all the Floats, and when you see one bitten, and carried away, be not over-hasty to run in, but give time to the Fish to tire himself, and then gently touch him.

If there be any Carps in the River, 'tis an even lay you take one or more of them; and if there be any Pike, or Perch, to be sure they'l visit the Ground Bait, though they touch it not, being drawn thither by the great resort of the small Fish; and until you remove them 'tis in vain to 30 think of taking the Bream, or Carp. In this case let one of your Hooks be baited with a small Bleak, Roach, or Gudgeon, about two foot deep from your Float, with a little Red Worm at the Point of your Hook, and if a Pike be there he will be sure to snap it.

This Sport is good till Nine in the Morning, and in a Gloomy Day till Night; but however it is good to withdraw; and about Four in the Afternoon cast in the remainder of your Malt, 40 and proceed as before; but do not frequent one place too much, lest the Fish grow too crafty for you.

The TENCH (for the most part) lieth at the Bottom of the Water, and chiefly in Muddy Soyls, and amongst Weeds; he delights in Pits and Ponds, more than in Rivers; his Flesh is very good, and of a pleasant Tast, although he fre­quents Muddy places: In the Heat of the Year he will Bite freely, else not; therefore the best 50 Season for Angling is in June, July, and August, and early in the Mornings, and late at Nights.

Though the Pike preys on most sorts of small Fish, yet he will not touch a Tench, which is supposed to proceed from the benefit he receives from them in point of Health; for being sick, the approach of this Fish to rub against him revives him, and the Slime is very good for all wounded Fish, and therefore he is called the 60 Fishes Physician. Authors write strange Vertues to be in the Tench; but how true, I dare not affirm.

Though Baits which the Tench delights in are sweet Paists, as that which is made of Brown-Bread and Honey; he will also Bite very gree­dily at any Paist wherein Tar or sweet Oil is an Ingredient; also at the Maggot, Red Worm, Cad-Worm, Lob-Worm, Gentle, and at dryed Wasps, especially if dipt in Honey.

To take good store of this Fish observe these Directions: Provide your self with a good large Casting-Net well Leaded, with a large Mesh, and deep tucked; then make the place (where you intend to Fish) clean from Stakes and Bushes with a Rahe, or some such thing, that there may be nothing to entangle it; then take a quarter of a Peck of Wheat baked well in an Oven, with about three Quarts of Water, also five Pints of Blood, and mix it with the Wheat well together, adding thereto as much Bran as will make it become a strong Paist; then take about a Quart of Lob-Worms chopt in pieces, and mix them in the Paist, and make it up into Balls about the bigness of a Goose-Egg, and throw them into the Pond within the compass of the Casting-Net, and betwixt whiles cast in some Grains; then when you think the Fish have found the Baiting place, about the Close of the Evening cast in your Net over the said Baiting-place. This being done, have a long Pole with a large Cork to stir all about the Net to raise the Fish, which are gene­rally stuck in the Mud, where they can't long endure, and let the Net lye near half an hour before you take it up, and be sure to lift up the Crown of the Net upright with a long Staff, that the Fish may play in the Tuck of the Net.

The PERCH is a bold biting Fish, being one of the Fishes of Prey, that like the Pike and Trout he carries his Teeth in his Mouth, which are very large; and he is so Voratious, that he dares attack one of his own kind, vvhich the Pike vvill hardly do: He hath an hooked or Hog Back, vvhich is armed vvith sharp and stiff Bristles, and all his Skin is covered vvith dry hard Scales, having two Fins on his Back vvhich few other Fish have; he is also a slow grower, and seldom exceeds two foot in length; he Spawns but once a year, and that in February or March. There are said to be two sorts of Perches, the one Salt Water, and the other Fresh; the first hath but one Fin on his Back, the other hath two. By the Physicians this Fish is held very nourishing, but hard of digestion.

The Perch biteth vvell all the Day in Cloudy Weather, but chiefly in the Morning and to­wards the Evening: The best Season of the Year is vvhen the Spring is far spent, at vvhich time he Bites so greedily, that you may take at one stand­ing all that are in one Hole; and in a fair vvarm Day in the Winter he will also Bite, else not.

The proper Baits for the Perch are the Belly of a Mackrel cut into small pieces about the size of a Minnow; the small Frog, the Minnow, and the Worm called the Brandling, if vvell scoured is the best; you may also use the Lob-Worm vvell scoured, likewise Bobs, Gentles, Oak-Worms, Wasps, and Cad-Baits.

The Perch is no Leather-mouthed Fish, and therefore vvhen he Bites give time enough to pouch his Bait, and carry your Bait about Mid-Water, vvith a Cork on your Line.

[Page 180] If you Bait with a Minow (which affords the most diversion), Fix your Hook through his up­per Lip, or in at the Back, only taking up the Skin, and then he will Swim up and down, being kept up by the Cork and Line. If you Bait with a Frog, then put the Hook through the Skin, and his Leg towards the upper part.

Your Line should be good and strong, and a good Hook Armed with Wyre, so that if a Pike comes you may be prepared for him. But before 10 you go to your Work, it were not amiss to Bait the Ground where you intend to Fish over Night, with Lob-Worms chopt in pieces.

The BLEAK is by some called the Fresh-Wa­ter Sprat, or the River-Swallow, by reason of his continual Motion, for it delights to be on the Top of the Water, and always in Motion, mak­ing short and quick turns to entrap the Flies. He is an eager biter, and is caught with all sorts of Worms bred on Trees, or Plants; also with Flies, 20 Paist, Sheeps-Blood, &c. and in an Evening the Bleak will take the Natural, or Artificial Fly, that is but small, and of a Brownish Colour, with a Hook answerable▪

The Fish useth to keep in Company together, so that a Pater-Noster Line is good to take them; that is, a Line which Seven or Eight small Hooks fastned to it, at every Six Inches distance, and with this a reasonable Angler may take Four or Five at a time.30

The best Bait in a warm clear Day is the small Fly, at the Top of the Water, at which they will Bite very eagerly, especially in the Evening; and if it be cold and cloudy, Gentles, or Cadice are the best, and to Fish at about Two Foot under Water.

There is an excellent way to catch Bleaks, by whiping them in a Boat, or on a Bank-Side, in swift Water in a Somers Evening with a Hazel Top about Five or Six Foot long, and with a 40 Line about twice the length.

The POPE, or RVFF, is a Fish not very com­mon, especially in some Rivers; for Shape it is like a Perch, but for bigness seldom exceeds the Gudgeon. It is an excellent tasted Fish; they bite freely and keep in Sholes, where the Water is deep, and runs quick, so that an Angler may catch Forty, or Fity at one standing.

Your Bait is the small Red-Worm, and if you give him first a Ground Bait of fresh Earth, it is 50 very good to draw them together, and to keep them there. Bob-Worms, and Maggots are also good Baits, and generally all sorts of sweet Paists.

The PIKE is a Fish of a great strength, is said to live longer than any other Fish; he is a great devourer of all small Fish; but will not meddle with the Tench: They are bred some by Generation, and others by the Suns heat reflecting on secret, and unknown predisposed Matters, which is a Truth past Controversy.60

He is of such a Voratious Nature, that he is called the Fresh-Water Wolf; he is a Melancluly Fish, and loveth to be alone, as greedy to seek his Prey, his common Food is either Pickerel-Weed, Frogs, or small Fish. The best Pikes are found in Rivers, and most in Meers and Ponds.

The Pike is a Bold Fish in this respect, that he feareth not to see or to be seen by a Man, which is contrary to the Nature of all other Fish. You may Fish for him with Ledger, or a Walking-Bait, the former is fixed to some certain place, of which here­after; for the latter it is which is now to be handled.

The skill in Baiting your Hook with a Frog, or Fish, so that they may receive little hurt, and to live long in the Water after, is the chief thing in this Art of Pike-Fishing with an Angle. To be exact at it, do thus; Take the Yellowest Frog you can get (for those are not poysonous, and Pikes are greedy of them) from April till August you may find their Mouths open, but all the year after quite lockt up, so that how they can then feed is a secret in Nature not known; having such a Frog, put your Arming Wyer through his Mouth, and out at his Gills; then with a Needle and Thread stitch up the upper part of his Leg to the said Arming-Wyer, and so fix it; one Stitch is e­nough and do it so as not to give him any hurt, that he may continue in full strength: Also cut a little the skin of his Back and put in some Salt; this will make him Croak, or Cry, which will the sooner draw the Fish to him.

If you Bait with a Fish, let it be either a Perch, Roach, Daice, or Large Minnow; the manner is thus, Between the Head and Fin or the Back make an Incision with a sharp prointed Pen-Knife, that you may put in your Arming-Wyer, and force it out at another Skar at the lower end of the Back near the Tayl, then tie him about with a Thread, but no harder than just to keep on the Fish and not to hurt it. If you use a dead Bait, then put your Hook in at the Tayl, and let the Point come out just at the Gills, and ever move your Line to and fro, that the Pike seeing the Fish move, may not discover your Fraud, and be provoked to come on the more eagerly. The most excellent attra­ctive way for a Pike is to anoint your Baits, wheither dead or alive, in a little Ivy-Gum, dis­solved is some Oyl of Spike, and cast it where you intend to Fish, and having lain a little while at the Bottom, draw it to the Top, and so up the Stream, and if there be any Pikes within sent of it, they will eagerly pursue the Bait, and the bigger the Bait is the better. Having taken one be sure to tire him well before you Land him, and let your Hook be well armed, and your Line all of Silk, except within about a Yard of the Hook, which must be a strong Wyer twisted and strengthend about with other small Wyer.

In May, June and July, Pikes are said to go a Froging in Ditches, and do also lie a Suning them­selves; at these times they are easy to be taken, and that by this means; Take a Line of Seven or Eight Foot, then Arm a very large Hook to the Line which must be neatly Leaded at the Shank of the Hook, and of such a weight that he may guid the Hook at pleasure, and with this Hook without a Bait a Pike may be struck without fear of losing it.

TROWLING for the PIKE.

THere is a way to take Pikes called Trowling which is thus done; Take a Hazel-Rod about Twelve Foot long, then fix to the Top of the [Page 181] Rod some strong Wyer, which must have a Noose to draw up, when you have entangled the Pike.

Snapping for PIKES.

THis is thus performed, put a strong dou­ble Hook well Armed upon a very strong Line, which must be of the length of your Pole. Bait the Hook as before directed for the Trowling, 10 either with a small Fish, or for want thereof with a small Bird, his Feathers being all pulled off. Keep your Bait always moving, and so soon as the Pike Bites, with a strong smart Jerk strike, and fling him out of the Water.

There is another way to take the Pike, and that is, take a forked Stick with a Line, about twelve Yards long wound upon it, and leave at the upper end about a Yard to tye a Bladder, or some thing to keep it from the Ground. The 20 Bait must be a Fish, viz. a Dace, Gudgeon, or Roach. The forked Stick must have a slit in the one side of the Fork to put in the Line, that the live Fish may be set to svvim at a Gage; and that when the Pike takes the Bait, he may have the full liberty of the Line for his Feed.

This Device may be turned loose either in a Pond, or River, and be carryed about with the Wind or Stream.

The Hook must be large, and the Shanks some­thing 30 shorter than ordinary; and it must be Ar­med either with small Wyer softned, or with Twisted Silk, which is esteemed the best.

The SALMON is said to be the King of Fresh Water Fish, and is always bred in Rivers near the Sea, yet where they are not Salt. He casts his Spawn in August, making a Hole in some safe gravelly place in the River, and therein hide their Spawn, covering it over with Stones, and Gravel, and so leaves it; and both the Melter 40 and the Spawner betake themselves to the Sea before Winter, and if they meet with any Ob­structions by Floodgates, or Wears, or become lost in the fresh Waters then those so left do by degrees become Sick, Lean, Unseasonable, Pineing a­way and dye in about two Years; notwithstand­ing which they delight most in fresh Waters, nor will they be so fat, and good in salt Water as in the fresh; and 'tis observed that those little Salmons called Skeggers, are bred by such sick Sal­mons. 50

The Salmon usually stays not long in a place, but covets to get nearer the Spring Head, and ge­nerally keeps in the middle of the River, and near the Ground, so that it is the more difficult to Fish for them with the Hook and Line from the Banks side; you should therefore be provided with a small Boat at Anchor, and from thence you may cast out your Hooks. Your Tackling must be strong, and well fitted, for you are to 60 encounter with a Fish of Strength and Greatness. He biteth best at about three a Clock in the Af­ternoons in the Months of May, June, July and August, especially if the Water be clear, and that there be a small breez of Wind blowing against the Stream.

The Baits proper for the Salmon, are the same as for the Trout, but above all others he will Bite best at the Garden-worm called a Lob-worm, pro­vided it be well scoured, and kept clean in Moss, as formerly directed; and if you anoint the Box wherein you put the Worms only three or four at a time, about an hour before you use them, with two or three Drops of the Juice of Ivy-ber­ries, or Oyl of Polypody of the Oak mixt with Turpentine, it is an excellent Attractive.

There is a way to Fish for the Salmon, with a Ring of Wyer at the end of your Rod, through which the Line may run to what length you please, by which means he will not come to feel the Strength of the Line or Rod, for it is to be feared if he should, he would with a Jerk of his Tail break either the Line, or Hook, and so escape.

The Artificial-fly is a good Bait, but you must use a Trowl as for the Pike, and your Fly must be large, with the Wings, and Tail very long. Be sure to give him time to gorge the Bait, and be not over hasty in drawing him up, but let him plung and tire himself.

The MILLERS THVMB, or BVLLSHEAD is a broad Headed, and wide Mouthed Fish, having two Fins under his Belly, and as many near his Eyes, which are broad; he hath also Fins on his Back. This Fish begins to Spawn in April, and are full of Spawn all the Summer Season. He delights in Holes, or amongst Stones in clear Water in the Summer, but in the Winter frequents the muddy places like the Eel. In Hot Weather he useth to lye suning himself in shallow gravelly places, and is easily taken not refusing your Bait, the best being the Red-worm. It is an excellent Fish for Tast, but of so ill a shape much resembling the Toad, that it is not much regard­ed.

In the last place I shall speak of the CARPE, in the taking of which there lies the main skil of an Angler.

CARPS are said to be of no long continuance in England; It is an excellent Fish, a great En­creaser, Breeding several Months in the Year, which Pikes and most other Fish do not; and it seems to be true, because that you shall scarce take a Male-Carp without a Melt, and a Female without a Row or Spawn, especially all the Sum­mer Season; and by Observation they agree more naturally in Ponds than Rivers, or Runing Streams if they Breed there at all. In some Ponds they will also not Breed; and such are those that have too cold Springs, but in Ponds agreeable to them, provided their Spawn is not devoured by Pikes or Pearch, they greatly encrease. I shall elsewhere give you some Rules for the knowing a Brneding Pond from a Growing one, with some Directions for the well ordering the same.

The Carp is a leather Mouthed Fish, so that if your Hook be once struck into his Chaps, doth seldom break his hold. He is the most Subtile Fish that is, and not easily taken by the Angle, especially in Rivers, or in some Ponds, where they have store of Feed and the Water is of a clayish colour. The Carp will seldom Bite in cold Weather, and in the Hot Season you [Page 190] can scarce be too early or too late at your Sport, for he is a very difficult Fish to be taken: In the Heat of the Summer, they shew themselves on the top of the Water, at which time if you Fish with the L [...]b-worm, as you do with the Na­tural-fly, you will have very good Sport, es­pecially if it be amongst Reeds.

If your Carps Breed too fast in your Stews, then put in some Gudgeons, which will cause them to grow Fat and Thrive, and so lessen their Breed­ing.10

The Baits most proper for the Carp are Worms or sweet Paists, of which there are great variety, for he is a Fish that seldom troubles the top of the Water for Flios. Of Worms the Blew Marsh-worm, the knotted Red Worm, and the Gentle are the best; if you Fish with Gentles, anoint them with Honey before you put them on your Hook. As for Paists, those that are made of sweet smel­ling, and sweet tasting things are the best. Honey 20 and Crums of White Bread is very good, being wrought up very stiff. Also Bean-flower, or o­ther Flower, Virgins Wax, some raw Flesh of a Rabet, or such like, being beaten well together in a Mortar to a Paist, is a very good Bait for them.

When you Angle for a Carp, your Rod and Line must be strong, and by reason he is so shie, it is very good to Bait the Ground where you intend to Fish two or three Days before, with 30 some Paist made up into Pellets, or Blood mixt with Bran, and Cow-Dung; also take about a peck of Ale-grains mixt with Blood, and cast into the place over Night, and it will gather the Fish together.

But all this while you are Detained from the chief Secrets, which in Truth should not be made common. You must be first assured that the place where you Fish for Carps is provided there­with, which to know make use of these follow­ing 40 Directions, not that they tend barely to make the Discovery and no more; for you must find other necessary uses made of them, for In­stance, you Bait your Fish thereby, and make them bold; you also obtain a safe and sure place for your Hook to rest on; which is a good Con­veniency; and you are also assured that there are Carps in the place, the Figure shews the Form.

[figure]

50

Frame same Bords together of such Length and Breadth as you think fit, but for want of other 60 Conveniencies, an old Door may serve the pur­pose, but the larger your Platform is, so much the better. The end Q is that which must lye next the Water side, at the Letter S make a Hole to receive a good strong Cord, fastned with a knot on the inner side, then flore over your Door with strong Earth or Clay about two Inches Thick; and so stiff, that it may not easily dis­solve, nor work off with the Water, then stick the said Earth full of Beans (prepared as here­after) at every four Inches Distance; the Let­ters V, X, Y, denote them; they must be very gently put in, so as a Carp may easily Bite them out, yet so fast as not to be washed out by the Water. When all is fixed, let the end Q be put into the Water sloping downwards, then when the Hole is close; on the bottom fasten the Cord T, at the Root of some Tree; the next Morning visit your Baits, put out your Door leasurely; if the Carps have eaten the Beans, 'tis a good sign of catching some, but if not, try it a second Day and Night; if you then al­so find the Beans unmoved, conclude there are no Carps. If you find the second time your Baits eaten, Replenish them, and think not your time lost. In case the bottom of the Water where you set your Door be clean and smooth, then remove your Door, casting in two or three Handfulls of the aforesaid Beans; but in case the Ground be Muddy, Weedy, Rooty, or the like, let the Door be Rebaited, and returned to the place where it was, for there you may boldly let fall your Hook. The way of ordering your Beans is thus. Take half a Bushel of Beans, and let them lye seven or eight Hours in warm Water, then Boil them in a large clean Earthen Pot in four Ounces of Honey, and as many Grains of Musk; then boil them about a quarter of an Hour, and so preserve them for your use, to Bait your Door, &c.

When you perceive that Carps are in the place, and that they bite your Bait, then the Night be­fore you Fish do thus; Put in some of your afore­said Beans into some River Water to Boil, and vvhen they begin to bubble, put the quantity of tvvo small Beans of Aloes-cicatrina into your Pot to about a Handful of your Beans, and let it Boil a little; when the Beans are cold Bait your Door vvith them, the effect will be this, The Carps will eat them as before, and withal fall a purging and scouring whatever is vvithin them; and Consequently will be exceeding Hungry, so as to Bite at any thing; then Early in the Morn­ing Bait your Hook (which should be strong and large) vvith your biggest Beans, and let the point of your Hook but just pierce the skin of your Bean (but note that the Beans wherewith you Bait your Hook, must not be of the bitter ones) your Hook must have a Foot of Line to Trail on the Water; and your Line should be made of Green Silk, vvith a Device to let go store of it as you see occasion. When you perceive your Float to Sink, then strike him, but upright not slanting; and when once he is hit, let him have Line enough to tire himself. In like man­ner you should be very careful in Landing him, for many a goodly Fish hath been lost by over­hastiness, to prevent which you may use a Co­modious Net, which may serve for other Con­veniencies, I shall here insert the Figure of it.

[Page 191]

[figure]

This Net is to be extended on a Forked 10 Stick; the two Branches N, O, should be each two foot long, and from the End N, to the other End O, should be likewise two foot distance. The Net P, being tyed on, should be about two foot deep; when the Carp is within five or six foot of the Land, set your Foot on the Line, and gently put the Net under the Carp, and so secure him: One Man may manage three or four Lines at this Sport, provided they be near him, and well secured on your Rods, and your Rods well 20 fixed on the Land with some Weighty things on the great Ends; and if you stuck a small Forked Stick into the Ground about a foot high, to sup­port the Middle of your Rod, it were very secure, both for preventing the drawing of your Rods, and the Carps would then strike them­selves.

I shall next give you two Receipts for Paists, which are most excellent and approved: Take a Heron, Plume him, then chop and mince him 30 very small, and put it into a large strong Glass-Bottle, which stop very close, and bury in an hot Dung-hill for two or three Weeks, so that it may be brought to an Oyl by a through Corruption; keep your Bottle always well Corked: When you go a Carp-fishing, make up a Paist with Crums of White-Bread, some ground Hemp-seed, with this aforesaid Oyl; and with this Paist bait your Hook so Artificially as no part be discernable; the quantity of a large Bean is enough. Also 40 with this Oyl anoint all that part of your Line next the Hook, and let your Paist rest a Foot on the Ground, as before directed.

The other Paist is more chargeable; but the excellency and goodness doth countervail the Cost, were it far greater: Take a Pound of the Dregs of Hemp-seed (by the Dregs is to be un­derstood the bruised Body of the Seed, after the Oil is squeezed out) two Ounces of Mummy, or the Fat of a Man, which may be had at the 50 Apothecaries; the like quantity of Pork-Lard, also two Ounces of the Oyl of Herons, the like quantity of Honey, one Pound of grated Crums of White-Bread, and four Grains of Musk; Make all these up into a Paist, and if you find it too stiff, mollifie it with Honey, and if too soft, thicken or stiffen it with the Dregs of Hemp­seed. You may toll it into Pellets of the bigness of large Beans.

Carps Spawn in May, or June, after which 60 they (as all other Fish) use to be very hungry, and will then for some time Bite at any thing.

CHAP. XI.
Directions for taking Fish by lay­ing Hooks and Lines in the Water, by Day or Night.

HAving gone through that part of Fishing which relates to Angling, I shall now proceed to give you some other necessary Rules to be understood and practised in this Art, that you may thereby take divers sorts of Fish, as well by Day as Night, without being obliged to the continual Attendance, which the former part of this Discourse doth necessarily require: That is, the laying of Hooks and Lines, which are usually intended for taking of Fish. If you set them for the Pike, Perch, or Barbel, you should do well to keep your Hook and Bait about a foot from the Ground by the help of some Cork; but for Eels your Bait must lye on the Ground. You are to know, that besides the foregoing sorts of Fish, there are some others which are usually taken with the said Night-Hooks; for which you must prepare your Ground Paists, and your Hook Baits, according to the several Natures; all which is already treated of.

But whereas I have in the Fourth Chapter treated of Hooks, I hold it not amiss to supply here some few Omissions, which indeed were purposely there made, as conceiving them more proper for this place. This following Figure represents the exact Forms and Proportions of several Hooks, which ought to be used in this kind of Fishing, and to fasten them to Links of twisted Wyer, just as you see in the Figures, which are so plain, that there needs no further Expla­nation, unless of the last of them Number 3▪ which is framed by tying 2 single ordinary Hooks together in the manner as this is, for your help when you are in a place where you can't procure any of the former, as sometimes it so falls out.

[figure]

There is a great Care required in Baiting these Hooks; for your Directions herein observe the manner of these following Figures.

[Page 192]

[figure]

If you are to Bait your Great Hook, No. 1. take the first Link of the Chain, and put the End P, into the Throat of the Fish with an arming Bodkin made for that purpose, so as to come out at his Gills X, in No. 6. and then draw it close, that the Hook may rest at the beginning of the Mouth V; then fasten the Shank of your Hook with a Thread about the Tail of the Fish, as G, in No. 4.; and then tye the other Line, or strong Packthread, well twisted at the last Link K, which said Line must be fastned to some strong Stake, Root of a Tree, or the like.30

Observe that when you Bait with any live Fish, to have them preserved in the Water alive, and to move up and down on, and with your Hook, as long as possible. Now if you draw your Hook, or Line, quite through them, they will immediately dye, and consequently are but dull Invitations to Fish. Let your great care therefore be to preserve your Bait-fish strong and lusty, and hurt him as little as possible.

By the Directions given you in Baiting the 40 Hook, No. 4. you may soon learn how to do that, No. 5.

Young Carps are the best Baits for Pikes, or Barbels, for they will live long in the Water. If you Bait with a Perch, cut off a good part of his Back-fin, for when he bristles that up (as his custom is when any Fish of Prey comes near him) it will hinder the Fish from Biting.

Be careful in what places you lay your Night-Hooks in regard of Stumps, Roots, or the like; 50 for when once a Fish of great strength finds himself Hooked, he useth to entangle all, that he may break some part of the Line, and so escape, which oft times proves successful to him.

For Pikes, and the like, lay your Hooks in the midst of the Stream, in Ponds, and other places; for Eels by the Bank-sides.

When you cast in your Baits, as No. 4. have your Line folded up as you there see, with a piece of light dry Wood bored through the mid­dle,60 as L, and that you should place some three or four foot from your Bait, more or less, according to the depth of the Water; but if you made the said Float of a small bundle of Rushes loosly bound up, it were better, and would not fright the Fish. In Summer you should have all your Hooks laid between three and four of the Clock in the Afternoon; in Winter an hour or two earlier, and both Winter and Summer, visit them about eight or nine in the Morning.

You must not set your Night-Hooks in the same manner in Runing Streams, and swift Ri­vers, as you do in standing Ponds, and deep 10 silent Pools; for you must in Rivers and Streams tye a small Stone of about four Ounces weight, two or three Yards from the Hook, the Letter N in No. 5. shews it, by which means your Bait may swim about a Foot, or fifteen Inches clear from the bottom.

If you set Night-Hooks in Rivers, have a Boat; for it is very difficult to cast your Lines off from the Land in such direct places as is ne­cessary. If the Sides of the River where you 20 intend to lay your Night-Hooks be deep, then you may carry on your design well enough without a Boat, and in such places you may use the manner, as No. 7.

You must provide so many Forked-Sticks as you intend to set Lines. The Letters A, B, C, D, represent the Form. From A, to C, D, let there be a distance of four or five Inches, in this man­ner. From A, to the Twist or first beginning of the two Branches, let there be about two Inches, from thence to the end of each Branch about three Inches; the very Ends of the two Forks must be cleft to receive your Line, as hereafter. At A, make a Notch to fasten a small Cord of about two foot long, which Cord tye to some Tree, Stake, Stump, or the like, to hold all sure. Fasten the End of the Line at B, and fold the rest about the two Branches in and out, as you see by the Figure, until within eight or ten foot of the Hook. At E, place a piece of Wood, or bundle of Rushes, together with a Stone, &c. of both which I have just before treated; then pass your Line into one of the Clefts at the End of either of your Forks, and that will hold it firm until some good large Fish be caught, who having bitten and swallowed the Bait will pre­sently change place, imagining all is well; but finding he is surprized will begin to plung, and to draw out your whole Line; and the longer it is, the better. Be sure all be well fixed, and strongly tyed, or else you run a hazard of losing your Lines, as well as your labour.

This Figure shews how to fasten several smaller Hooks and Lines upon your main Line, and serves to take Eels, Barbles, Perches, and the like.

[figure]

Your Hook should be small, and Baited some with Minows, some with Frogs, some with Worms, others with pieces of Powdred Beef, and the [Page 193] like; you may fasten particular Lines, about two foot distance from one another; the smaller Lines being each about two foot long. Every thing being so disposed, tye the End B fast to some Stake, Bough, or the like, the other End A, fasten to some heavy Stone, which throw into the River as far as you design. Your Lines and Baits hanging thus cross the Water, no Fish can pass by without seeing them, and be sure to lay these kind of Lines in places free from Trash, 10 Roots, or the like; for the great Eels will else endanger all by twisting themselves and the Lines about the Weeds, Roots, or Stumps.

It is good to lay some Ground Baits which may draw small Fish, and those will attract great ones, for which this said Device is chiefly intended.

CHAP. XII.20
Of Night-Angling, and Ground-Angling.

GReat Fish (but chiefly Trouts) are shy and fearful of Ensnarements, and do observe the most secure Seasons to seek their food, which 30 is at Night.

In Night-Angling you should be provided with some great Garden-Worms, or instead there­of with Black-Snayls, with these Bait your Hook, and cast them off a good distance, and draw your Line to you again upon the surface of the Water, not permitting the Bait to sink, to which use not a Plumet of Lead, but only a Float; whereas in Ground-Angling, you must use a Plum­et without a Float; and this sort of Ground-Ang­ling 40 is very good in Cold Weather, for then the Fish lye low. You may easily hear the Fish rise, and therefore give him time to swallow the Bait, and then gently give him a twitch to secure him. If you find that the Fish will not freely take the Bait at the Top of the Water, then sink your Bait by putting thereto some Lead, and order your self as at Day-Angling. It is observed that the best Trouts bite in the Night, and do most commonly rise in the still Deeps, seldom in the 50 quick Streams.

CHAP. XIII.
Directions for taking and preser­ving Worms, very useful in Ang­ling.60

WORMS of all sorts are very necessary, as well for Night-hooks, and Nets, as Angling, or the like; they are not at all times to be had on a sudden, nor without labour and industry. I shall here shew you some ways to furnish your self therewith at all times. If you be in any place where you suppose Worms are, the way to get them out of the Ground is to keep a continual motion with your Feet, by moving up and down in one small tract of Ground, and the Worms hearing the noise will work themselves out round about you; then being provided with a Stone Pot put them therein, and so order them as already directed, and keep them for your use.

If in the Summer time, you take about a quart of Green-Walnuts with the Husks and Shells, beating them in a Pottle or two of Water, with some Brick, or Tyle, the Water will be come bitter, which being sprinkled on the Gound so as to soak into the Earth, will presently cause the Worms to come out of the Earth. If you take a strong Stake, and drive the small End about a Foot into the Ground, and then settle your self to pull it out, not stiring your Feet from the place, but continue this kind of motion for about a quarter of an hour, all the Worms that are within a Fathom round you; hearing the noise will come up.

Another way is thus; Take a Candle and Lan­thorn that hath clear Horns, and being provided with an Earthen Pot, in a dark Night go into the Walks of your Garden, or else into such Lands that are in Tillage and free from Grass; you must walk softly, and stooping downwards you may perceive the Worms half out of the Ground, not only to enjoy the Fresh Dew, but also to Couple, and thus all Summer long you may find such places full of them from an hour after Sun-set to near Day-Break, especially after a Showr of Rain, and in Winter the same upon a warm Thaw after a Frost.

Having shewed you to take Worms; I shall pro­ceed to instruct you how to preserve and keep them all the Winter. About November when you see any Husbandman breaking up a piece of Lay-Ground, if you follow the Plough you will find good store of small whitish Worms, some call them Grubs; they are bred of the Eggs of a Beetle, which she leaves in Holes under Cow-Turds, or Horse-Dung; these Worms in March and April become Red, and not long after grow to be Beetles. If you gather two or three thousand of them, and put them into a large Tub, with about two Bushels of the same Earth from whence they were took, and keep it well secured from cold Blasts, and Frosts, they will live all the Winter, especially if you give them a little fresh Earth once in about a Fortnight. A Day before you use them, take so many out as you think to use, and let them be put apart into a little fresh Earth moistned with Honey, and they are excellent Baits.

Gentles are thus bred and preserved: Take a piece of a Beasts-Liver, and with a Cross-Stick hang it up in some place over a Barrel half full of dry Clay; they will fall into the Barrel, and there scour themselves. You may breed them in this manner, until the Middle of October; but if you would breed them to keep all Winter, get a dead Cat, Kyte, or the like, and let it be [Page 194] Fly-blown; when you perceive the Gentles begin to stir, bury the Carkass in some moist Earth, where it may remains as free from the Frost as you can. You may make use of them at any time all the Winter until March, and then they begin to turn to Flies.

CHAP. XIV.10
How to take Eels with a Speer, or Darting-Rod, much used in Flanders and Holland.

IN Flanders and Holland they take Eels in great abundance, with the help of a Dart, or 20 Striking-Iron; this Figure represents the fashion thereof, and its use I shall here explain.

[figure]

The Iron, or Steel, must be about a quarter of 30 an Inch thick all over, and in the End must be a Socket to receive the End of a good strong Pole, the Letter L, denotes the Socket, K, and L, the Pole which should be about fifteen foot long, and must be fastned into the Socket with a couple of Iron-Pins, to take off, and put on when occasion serves. The Iron, or Steel, must be framed into a Fork with three Teeth, as the Figure presents, marked N, O, P, each above nine Inches long, the two outermost N, O, bending outwards, and the 40 middlemost must be pointed like an Adder's-Tongue, a little rounding; and all three must have small Teeth within, and the whole encompassed by an Iron-Band, or Hoop, that neither of them may stir out of his place, as you see the Letter M. The Teeth of all must be so close, that a small Eel can't pass between; but towards the End P, you may leave them a little wider. The manner of using this Instrument is easie, being only to poach and stir with it up and down in 50 such Muddy places as Banks, and Bottoms, where you suppose they are; and if there be any, you can hardly miss of them.

CHAP. XV.
How to take Frogs in a Dark 60 Night, by Torch-Light, useful for Baits.

FOr the taking Frogs in the Night with light, there must be in Company three or four; one must carry Bundles of dry Straw to make the Flame, for the Frogs will not fail to make towards it. If it be a good big Torch it is much bet­ter, especially if Wax; you must not make any Noise, but stand still, and let them come about you in the Water; then for the taking them, each Person should be provided with a Bag put be­tween his Legs, with the upper part of the Sack fastned to his Codpiece, and he may hold the Sack close with one Hand, and put them in with the other; and so take either Great or Small, as you see occasion; and if you be silent, they will not forsake the light.

CHAP. XVI.
A Pleasant way to take Pikes, cal­led Huxing of the Pike.

IF you are minded to see excellent sport, choose out some Pond or Pool, where you are assu­red Pikes of a large size are, and such as have good sharp Appetites. Then take thirty or forty Bladders the largest you can get, blow them up, and tye them close and strong; then at the Mouth of the Bladder tye a Line, longer or shorter according to the depth of the Water; at the end of the Line fasten your Armed Hook Ar­tificially Baited; and put them into the Water with the advantage of the Wind, that they may gently move up and down the Pond. When one Master Pike hath struck himself, it is a most pleasant Diversion to see him bounce about in the Water, with the Bladder at his Tail; and when you perceive him almost spent, take him up. The same Diversion may be done by tying your Lines and Baits at the Legs of Geese or Ducks; but the Geese that have been once so served, will be afraid to come near the Water for a good while after, according to the Proverb, Hang a Dog in a Crab-tree, and he will not care for Verjuice.

CHAP. XVII.
Observations concering Nets, very useful in Fishing.

THe next thing shall be to Treat of the ta­king Fish with Nets; and by the way 'tis not amiss to give some few Directions concerning the Making, Buying, Fitting, and Preserving them; not that I intend to insert the Art of ma­king Nets, but only to give some necessary hints; nevertheless take notice, that one Home­made Net will out-last three Sale ones, and yet not cost the tenth part so much; besides, with good usage it will do three times the service; and without Nets you can be no Fisher, or Fowler, [Page 195] which are two delightful Country Divertions. The charge, or Difficulty of making them is easy, for almost every Barber is a proficient therein, and for the expence of about five Shil­lings, you may be provided with all Instruments and Tackle necessary to be used therein.

Now taking it for granted, that you will learn this easy and cheap Slight of Net-making, I shall proceed to some Directions how to preserve them, in which observe especially these three Cautions,10 First, that you Dye them into good Colours, where­in there is a double Advantage, as not frighting the Fish, which white ones are apt to do; and they will last strong and sound much longer. Second­ly, that you mend them upon the least Breach, for which end you should always have your Implements about you, when you go to Fish with them; and Lastly, that you lay them well up, which consisteth in these two things, first, that you carefully dry them after usage, and 20 secondly that you keep them from damp Walls; and such places where Rats and Mice may anoy them; to prevent which, keep them in some close Press, or let them hang down from the middle of some Beam remote from any Wall, as tyed thereto by a Cord.

For the Dying of Nets, there are but these Co­lours proper for Fishing, viz. Green, Yellow, and a Sad Russet, the latter is effected by the help of some Tanners Vate, which is a great preserver of 30 them; and in case you have not that Conveni­ency, take about half a Bushel of the outward Rind or Bark of a Walnut-tree, and cut it into small pieces, then Boyl them in a reasonable quan­tity of fair Water about two Hours, then take it off the Fire, and put your Nets into the bot­tom of the Vessel, laying the Bark upon them, and so let them lye a Day and a Night to Infuse; and when you take them out, they will be a good brown. The Yellow is made by rubing over the 40 Nets with Celandine well bruised, so that the Juice may soak into the Thread; And the Green Colour is made by Boyling young Wheat, Barly, or Grass chopt small, and let the Nets lye a Day and a Night in the said Liquor. But if you would be at the charges, it were better to have them done by a Dyer.

CHAP. XVIII.50
Directions for pitching a Net called the Raffle, both by Day and Night.

THe first Net that I shall take notice of, is 60 called a Raffle Net, tis to be supposed from hence, that nothing can escape it, when once gotten in. The Form thereof is here pre­sented unto you, whose use I shall next des­cribe.

[figure]

You must be provided with five or six Poles of Sallow, so such light Wood, which is strong withal, and each of nine or ten Foot long, but more or less according to the Depth of the Wa­ter; at the great End sharpen them, the better to be fixt into the Ground at the bottom of the Wa­ter. You must also be provided with a Paring-Knife to cut away all Weeds, Roots, Stumps, Boughs, or the like, which are in or near the pla­ces where you design to pitch your Net, for them you must remove out of the way. The Figure of the said Paring-Knife is here described.

[figure]

Then fasten one of your Poles at either end of your Net, at either of the two Wings, that is to say, the Cord below where the Lead is, unto the bigger End of your Pole, and upper Cord where the Cork is to the smaller End of the Pole. Then in case you have no Bait, contrive to get some Man on the opposite side of the River with a Cord in his Hand, one end whereof must be fastned to one of the Poles, which are fixed to the Net according to this Figure of the Pole.

[figure]

The Man having drawn over that Wing, must force the great and A of the Pole in the said Net into the Ground at the bottom of the Water C, the like must be done with the other Pole of the said Net marked Z, h, on the side, just over against the former.

Then must he throwover one End of the Cord, which fasten to the Wing of the said Net, y, C, when it is drawn over, you must go along the whole length of the Net. Your Poles being rea­dy fastned as the two former, and streigning the Cords of your Net indifferent stiff, drive the two latter Poles into the Ground as you did the two first. Be sure all be well and strongly done, that the Current may not force away your Supporters, then with the said long Pole you may spread the Grass and Trash you former­ly pared away all over the Net, as well to secure it from the sight of Thieves, as to give a shade to the Fish, for they covet shelter, especially in [Page 196] hot Weather. The Cord N, O, is your Lock and Key, for by it you are sure no Fish can escape that are in your Net, therefore be careful to hide it. You may let the Net stand a Day and a Night, and if the place be well stored with Fish, you will hardly miss them. But if you de­sign to Fish only by Day, and not to let the Net lye in the Water, then after the Net is plan­ted, let a couple of Men beat up and down with long Poles, taking a good Circumference; and 10 beating towards it about the sides of the Water, ever now and then thrusting their Poles into the bottom of the Water, and when you are minded to draw, be sure in the first place to strain in the Lock and Key N, O, and then having a Cord at each Wing of the Net, from the other side draw them both at once gently towards you; and when they are near at Hand together make what hast you can, and thus you may make se­veral sets in a Day.20

CHAP. XIX.
Directions for pitching a Net called the Wolf, together with its Form.30

THe next sort of Net that I shall Describe is called the Wolf, being a great destroyer of Fish, as well in Rivers as Ponds, and may not unfitly be called the little Raffle, as exactly the same, except the four Wings, the Figure fol­loweth.

[figure]

40

You must carry this Net to the Water-side, near 50 the place where you intend to pitch, which to do well, should be some Ground full of Rushes, Sedg­es, and such like Water-grass. Then with your Pareing Knife aforesaid quarter out a place for the Net, by cleansing away all the Trash, and Weeds near it, [...]he larger the better; especially if you did cut two Alleys in a direct Line, a pretty length, one to each side of the Net, by which the Fish might be invited, and as it were guided unto the Net, at the two Doors E, and F. 60 Then get four Stones each of five or six pound, which tye to the Cords marked G, R, j, K, which Cords fasten to some strong Staff, as by the said Figure is Represented. About the middle of the Pole E, fasten a Cord L, R, of a convenient length, whereby to draw the Net on Shore with­out being necessitated to go into the Water for it, though possibly you were forced to do so when you placed it there, which do in case you set the Net in the middle of any wide River: But if you place it within ten or twelve Foot of the Bank, you may then cast in your Net; and settle it afterwards according to your Mind, by the help of some long Pole or the like, though the former must be confessed is the better way, but more Troublesom.

CHAP. XX.
Directions for pitching a Net cal­led a Cinque-Port, and its use.

THis Net is so Termed from the five Entran­ces into it, and is of excellent use for a­ny Pond or River, Swift or Standing Water. The Figure here followeth.

[figure]

For the making use of this Figure be provided with four Poles, which must be straight and strong, and for the length answerable to the Depth of the Water; the great Ends must be sharp­ned like Stakes, and notched within a Foot of the ends to fasten the four Corners of the Net, as E, F, G, H, the like Notches make on the same Poles at a convenient Distance for the fastning the four upper Corners in the same manner, as A, b, C, D. The Bottom of the Net is four Square without any Entrance; to do well you should have the help of a Boat, when you place the Net in the Water, for that you must drive your Poles fast into the Ground; and at such a conve­nient Distance, that your Net may be stiff stretch­ed out, each Pole answering his fellow in an ex­act direct Line, and this may suffice in any standing Water; but if it be in a swift Stream, the Motion of the Water will always move the Net, and so frighten away the Fish, to prevent which use this help; fasten at the very top of the four Poles, certain strong Sticks to streighten and strengthen one another, and to keep all light; as for Example, observe the same pointed Line marked with little a, b, c, d, and you will easily com­prehend it: But then if you fasten two other Poles cross ways from A, a, unto great D, and little d, and from C, c, to great B, and little c, [Page 197] you need not fear it, for the Water can have no power over it.

CHAP. XXI.
Inventions to draw or force Fish in­to such Nets as you set.10

BEfore I proceed further in the Discourse of set­ting and laying of Nets, I hold it neces­sary to present you with some Directions for the Attracting by fair means, or frighting by vio­lent ones the Fish into your Net. You must know that Fish (as most other Creatures) do de­light in the Company of those of their own 20 kind, searching after each other, except the Pike that takes no pleasure in his Companions, unless to eat them, and therefore is most easily taken; the like is the Tench, not upon the same reason, but because he is always Hungry, which com­pells him to hunt up and down expecting to get his Prey, neither is he afraid of the Net, as most other Fish are. It is most certain that if when you set your Net, you put some live Fish into it, or for want thereof a piece of some Dead 30 one, it will draw others to it: It is also certain that if you put into the Net any fresh coloured Flowers of divers sorts, either the smell or sight will invite them to it. But if you Bait your Net with a live Fish, let it be once taken out of the same River; and if you can come near the same place where you pitch, for Fish do know and are acquainted with each other, as well as any other sorts of Creatures. If you hang in the Net a Bone of some salt Pork without any Flesh 40 it will Attract Fish. The Dreggs of Hempseed, that, is the Refuge after the Oyl is extracted out, is a very great Attractive of Fish; But of all others Paists for Nets, and to say Truth for a Ground-Bait, on any occasion this following one is the best. Take a Leveret, or young Hare, let it begin to smell strong, then roast it with a gentle Fire, and bast it well with Honey, vvhen it is half Roasted, put in the Drippingpan Sippits of White Bread; and let it drop thereon till the 50 Bread be well soaked, then take them out of the Pan, and put in more; and so continue untill all the liquor be dryed up. If you tye a piece of this Bread with a little of the Flesh upon any part of the Net within side, it will draw the Fish to them in great plenty.60

CHAP. XXII.
A Device to take store of Fish, at one Draught, and that in diffi­cult places, by reason of Rocks, Roots, Stumps, Holes and the like.

IN such Ponds and Rivers that are pestered with Weeds, Stumps of Trees, great Stones, and the like, there Fish use to shelter themselves from the extremity of Heat, as well as [...] likewise to secure themselves from the Snares and surprizes of such as design to take them. In such places Fish grow fat and large. You must therefore be at some pains and charges to prepare the place; but the best of it is, that being once fitted, it will cost nothing to repair. Cleanse some part of the said Ground of all the aforesaid T [...]ash and Impediments, for a good space, both in length and breadth, and then Bait the middle thereof with the boyled Beans, as directed in the latter end of the Ninth Chapter. The same Day that you cast in the said Ground Bait, drive crtain Poles into the Ground under the Water, according to the subse­quent Direction. These ensuing Figures do present the manner how to employ and order them; but for the better apprehension thereof I shall give you some Directions therein.

[figure]

Get a certain number of Poles, each as big as a Mans Arm, straight, and so such length as the depth of the place requires; the greater Ends whereof must be sharpned the better to be drove into the Ground; plant them at equal distances on the border of the Plat-form cross the Water as E, another at F, about Ten or Twelve Foot distance, and so at G, and H. In like manner op­posite [Page 198] to these fasten as many others on the other side of your Platform, which R, S, T, doth denote, the said Poles being obvious by the letters E, f, G, H, the same with the foregoing: Then pierce all the Stakes at the top just level with the Super­ficies of the Water, with Holes large enough to receive certain Pegs as big as ones little Finger; which Pegs must slip in and out very easily; and at the biger end of the Pegs make a Notch for the snare, tying on a strong Packthread of 10 about a Foot and a half long. Every one of the Packthreads must be fastned to a long Cord, as de­signed by the letters a, b, c▪ d. The Pegs you may also discern to be fastned each the Hole by the letters N, O, P Q. When you haue thus far proceeded, cast in Morning and Evening Five or Six handfuls of your Beans, and the Evening before you Fish, cast in as many of those which are prepared with Aloes, and then set for Nets between Two and Three in the Afternoon, in 20 this manner; Get a Pair of Tramel Nets long e­nough to encompass the whole Platform, or to speak truly, the whole River above and below, fasten the Cork-Line at A, B, and let the Lead-Line sink to the Bottom, then pass along by the Poles E, F, G, H, and strain over the Net to the other side of the Poles C, D, and there fasten your Cork-Lines and Lead-Lines in the same manner, Then strain your Cord for the Pegs V, a, b, c, d, K. tie one end thereof on the backside unto some 30 Bough, Stake or the like, as V, distant from the Pole N, about Six Foot, then go with your Boat to the midst of the Water, and take your Cork-Line in the Left Hand, and lift up your Net un­til you have the whole in your Hand, that is to say, the Cork-Line, Net, and Lead-Line which place upon the Peg O, in the upper end of the Pole F, and so do unto every Pole one after ano­ther, until all your Net be so fixed. Then car­ry the other end of your Cord just over against 40 the middle of the Platform where you cast in your Ground Baits, and fasten the said End on a Stake, as at K; and thus having done the one half, you are the better able to do the other, which is the same thing as before described, in which you cannot well mistake, the Figure being mark­ed with the same Letters, though but one with the Net ready planted, the other being to direct you by the single Cords, Pegs, and the like; Then at Night cast in some more of the Beans, 50 and about Nine or Ten of the Clock get Three or Four Men with you, whom you must divide, Two on the side of the River A, B, and the o­ther on the side C, D, that you may have one at each End of your two Tramel-Nets, but they must go cunningly and quietly to work without noise, and keep at least Ten or Twelve Foot di­stance from the Nets, until the Signal be given by him who is to let the Nets go, who being at K, should get hold on both the Cords that hold the 60 Peg-Lines, and giving them a good pluck, shall thereby give way to the Nets to fall down, and so encompass all the Fish, which are at your Bait, and within the circumference of your Nets, or just at the same time that your Peg-Line is drawn, the Signal must be given, and then must the Men bestir themselves to close in the Ends of the Nets next the Shoar, so that nothing may get out, and then are the Fish as it were in a Cage.

The next thing to be done, is to close in the Ends of your Net, and from beating from one End to the other, give no opportunity to the Fish to escape, but keep them in continual Ala­rums until you have drawn in your Nets close together, and so land them. You are to know, that it is to little or no purpose to pitch your Nets after this manner in any swift Stream, for that will hinder your Nets from resting on your Pegs, and will also prevent your Nets from play­ing as they should.

CHAP. XXIII.
An Excellent way to take all manner of Great Fish by Night, with a Net and Fire.

IF you know any place frequented with Fish that are grown old and subtle, observe these following Directions: If the place be free from Weeds, and such like Impediments, it needs not be cleansed. This ensuing Figure doth represent the Draught to your view.

[figure]

Suppose the Pond, or Place you design to Draw, be the Space marked within the pointed Line O, P, D, Q, and that I, L, be the length of the Banks-side which you would encompass; then Bait the place with some good Paists, as the boyled Beans with Honey, &c. for three or four days before you draw it; and if you cast in all your Paists near one Spot, it were the better; as for Example, within the pricked Line K. The Morning you intend to Fish, Bait with your Purging Beans to make the Fish more hungry and eager to Bite. That Day about two in the Afternoon plant your Net in this manner, with the help of a Boat or long Tub; for want thereof go to the Verge of your Plat-form, as P, D, and then let drop your Net just in the Form, you see it delineated by the Letters A, B, C, D; that is to say, in a kind of Heap, yet so as it may be entangled by it self. At the End E, fasten a Cord, and fix the other End of the said Cord on the Shoar at H, on some Stake, or the like, and another Cord at the End F, whose End must [Page 199] be fastned at G, about an hundred Paces distance from K, the place where you Bait, and the said place ought to be just in the middle between the two Cords, which are fastned at the two Ends of the Net; Then on the Land between M, N, just over against your Baiting-place leave a heap of dry Leaves, Straw, Stubble, or Sticks, which may quickly take Fire; then withdraw, and let not any more noise be made near the place that E­vening. The Night being come, the old crafty 10 Fish will be sure to peep out, partly to see what was the cause of the Noise, and partly through Hunger; The darker the Night is, the better: Then go three or four together, one must gently (without noise) go to the Cord G, and another to H, and there lye close until the Sign be given; then let one set Fire to his Stubble at M, N, as secretly and quietly as possible, and so lye flat on his Belly, to observe by his Eye and Ear if the Fish make a noise, or motion; if they do,20 let him cast in five or six handfuls of the Beans, as he lieth upon his Belly, but not the Purging ones, and lye close for about a quarter of an Hour, by which time the Fish will be all at work, some eating, and others looking on the Light; then give Notice by a Whistle to your Companions to draw the Net with all imagi­nable dexterity, inclining towards each other, that the Net may be extended like a Semi-Circle, as you see the Letters O, P, D, Q: When 30 the two Cords of your Net are drawn, one to O, and the other to Q, then with their Beating-Poles let them lay on at Top and Bottom of the Water, to keep the Fish amused, that they may have no leisure or place to escape, so by little and little gather the two Ends close together to the place K; then take your Lead-Lines into your Hands, and let your Companions take each one of the Cork-Lines, and gently pull in your Net, yet so that your Leads may still graze close on 40 the Ground, or else the Fish will get away under the Net, especially the great and crafty Ones.

CHAP. XXIV.
A Device to make a Fishery in any 50 open River with Wants, Holes, and Weeds, to shelter the Fish from great Heats, and extream Colds, in the nature of a War­ren.

THere is an easie and cheap way of pre­serving 60 and storing Fish in the midst of any River, by making a Warren, as it were, for the Fish to retreat into; yet may you take them when you please. This Figure sheweth the Draught of the design.

[figure]

Suppose the Circuit P, Q, R, be the place de­signed for the Fishery; then provide about twen­ty large Fagots, bound at both Ends of about six foot long, and four foot about; lay four of them in a kind of a Square at the Bottom, but let there be about a foot space between every of them; then lay a Range on the Top, cross them, and a third Range over them until you have piled up Fagots almost to the Top of the Water; then lay some heavy Stones on the uppermost Fagots to keep all close and sure against the violence of the Water, in case it be a rapid Stream. It were not amiss, if you drove a strong Pole with an Iron-Point through the uppermost Fagot, and so through all that are directly under it, into the Ground, the better to support your Covert.

When every thing is thus fitted, do nothing for about a Fortnight, that the Fish that pass too and fro may have time to acquaint themselves therewith; when they find such Holes to receive them, with the benefit of the Retreat, they will much resort thereunto, especially the larger Ones.

When you intend to try what store there is, do thus: Get your Tramel-Net well Leaded at Bottom, and Corked at Top, into some Boat, together with an Instrument, being a long light Pole with an Iron-Crook, strongly fixed at the great End; and also be provided with Beaters, which are light long Poles, with Flat pieces of Wood nailed on the top of them, to make a noise on the Top of the Water, as also to thrust into the Bottom, thereby to drive in, and move on the Fish. The Figures of the Poles are as followeth.

[figure]

Then beat up and down both above and be­low your Warren, yet drawing still nearer to­wards it, thereby to force the Fish to retire thi­ther; then Draw about fifteen foot from your [...] [Page 202] your Stick may stand upright on the three Forks. Also prepare a Dozen or Rods, or Sticks, about five or six foot long, cleft at the small End, marked I, in which you may place some skin'd Frogs, the Guts of Chicken, or the like. When the Sticks, are all Baited, go out, and where you find any likely Hole lay your Stick on the Ground, with the Baited End just at the Hole in the Water, and there leave it; and so after this manner lay the rest in the most likely places,10 and walk in and out visiting your Sticks, and when you find any fixed to the Baits, gently move your Baited End towards the middle of the Water, and doubt not but that the Cray-fish will keep their hold, and so put your Net just under the Bait; then softly lift up the Bait, and as soon as the Cray fish the Air they let go their hold, and fall into the Net.

It is most certain that about Five and twenty have been thus taken out of one Hole, all hang­ing 20 at the same time upon one Bait; Consider then what may be done in a well stored River, with about a Dozen Rods together. It is an ex­cellent Diversion, seeing that two or three Friends may discourse Walking, and yet mind the work in hand.

CHAP. XXVIII.30
Directions to take Pikes as they lye Sleeping, and Sunning them­selves in fair clear Weather, the one with a Net, and the other with a Runing-Knot of Horse-hair.40

I Suppose most covet the Pike, as being an excellent Fish; They are often found Sleep­ing in fair Open Weather, from March until Au­gust, on the Top of the Water, and near the Land; they are thus taken. You must be pro­vided with a long Pole, or Rod, that is light and strait, on the smaller End thereof fasten a Runing-Loop made of well twisted Horse-hair, and Silk, of a large compass, which gently draw on him,50 and when you have it about five or six Inches over his Gills, then hoist him up; if it be a small one draw not the Collar so far on, lest he slip through: Make no Noise in Walking by the Bank-side, but go gently without speaking, and in case you find one in such a posture as that you can't conveniently draw your Loop on him, you may gently touch his Tail with the Rod, and he will turn himself as you would have him.60

You may also take them by a Net, which is treated of in the latter End of the Ninth Chapter, touching the Landing of Carps, and other great Fish, to which I refer you as to the Description thereof; and I shall here teach you how to use it in taking Pikes, as aforesaid. When you per­ceive any one so Sleeping, put your Net into the Water as gently as possibly you can, and guide it just under the Pike, and so lift it up very softly until you are ready to touch him; then give him a Lift with all the dexterity you can, and you will seldom fail taking them.

CHAP. XXIX.
A Collection of several Artificial Baits, recommended by Authors of great Esteem, that have been curious in Studying the Natures of Fish, and the Art of Fish­ing.

I Shall in this Chapter give you an Account of such Baits, Paists, and compounded At­tractions, as I have met with from divers Pro­fessors of this Art; not that I will much recom­mend them, lest they should prove like those Medicines for Agues, which may be a Cure to some, and fail in others.

Take Coculus-Indy, and Assefitidae, beaten and mixt, with a like quantity of Honey, and dissolve it in the Oyl of Polypody, and keep it in a close Glass, and if when you Angle you anoint your Bait, whether Natural, or Artificial, it will draw the Fish to it in great abundance.

Take ripe Cheries, and Stone them; then beat the Pulp thereof with Crums of White-Bread into a Paist, and if you cast Pellets of it into the Wa­ter, it will entice the Fish to the place.

Take some Blood, some of the Fat and some of the Dung that is in the small Guts of a Sheep; some Thine, Penny-Royal, Organ, Savory, Marjoram, Garlick, the Lees of strong Sweet Wine, of each a like quantity; mix and chop them small and well together, then make them into small Pellets. These Pellets being cast into the Water will be sure to draw Fish to them, if there be any stiring; and then with your Nets you may secure them.

If you take the Blood of a Goat and the Lees of sweet smelling Wine, and therewith make a Paist with Barly-Flowers, it will also attract Fish.

If you anoint any Lines or Nets whith Salt, it will cause the Fish to avoid them.

Take of strong stinking Sturgeon, and of the yellow Butter-Flyes each an Ounce, of Anni­seeds, Hempseed, and Cheese, of each Four Drams, of Hogs-Blood, and Galbanum, of each the like quantity, and of the Juice of Parsnipe Two Drams; mix all these together with a little Red Wine, and make them up into Pellets, drying them in the Shade, and this is said to be a very bewtiching Bait.

Take some of the Worms called Glow-Worms, and distil them in a Glass-Vessel, or Vial, with Four Ounces of Quick Silver, stoping the Vial very close, that nothing may get in or out; [Page 203] then put it into your Nets, when you Fish, and it will attract them.

Take Nettles, and Five-leaved Grass, chop them small; then mix some Juice of House-leek with it, and rub your Hands therewith throwing the rest into the Water, and if you then hold your Hands in the Water, the Fish will not forbear to come to them, and so you may take them.

Take Heartworth, and Lime, mingle them to­gether, and throw it into any standing Water, it 10 will draw them thither, and cause them to be In­toxicated, so that you may take them floating on the Water.

It was the saying of a Learned Man, that Baits should have four qualities; First, That Baits should be strong-smelling to draw them to you though at a great distance, such as Oyl of Anni­seeds, Juice of Wild Parsnips, or the like; Se­condly, That Baits must be well Tasted, to in­vite the Pallet to eat them, such as Hogs-Blood, 20 Chee [...]e, made of Goats-Milk, White Bread, yellow Butter-Flyes, &c. Thirdly, It must have an o­perating quality on the Head, such as the Lees of Wine, Strong-Water, &c. And Fourthly, That Baits should have a fumiferous quality, such as is in Marigolds, which being eaten by them, will in a short time Stupify them. But for this business there is noting so exquisite as Coculus-Indicus.

The Composition that Cardan hath highly 30 commended, is this; Take a quarter of and Ounce of Coculus-Indicus, the sixth part of an Ounce of Coleworts, and as much Strong-Water, an Ounce of Cheese, and Three Ounces of Whea­ten Flower; beat all these together into a Paist, and so use it.

Take Penni-Royal, Summer-Savory, wild and sweet Marjoram, of each Three Ounces; of Frankinsence and Mirrh, of each an Ounce, of dried Barly steeped in good Wine, half a Pound 40 of Hogs-Liver roasted, Goats Fat, and Garlick, of each a Pound, mince each by it self; then make it into a Lump, and after into small Pellets, and if you throw these Pellets into any place they will attract the Fish to them, and so take them with your Nets.

Take Mutton Suet, Garlick, Wild and Sweet Marjoram dried, Thyme of each a like quantity, stamp them together with Crums of White-Bread and Wine, and give thereof for a Bait; or you 50 may make a Paist of Wine, Lime, Old Cheese, and Rams Dung, which will exceedingly Intoxicate all manner of Fish.

If you take of that Medicinal Shell, called by Drugsters, Vnguis Odoratus, Cummin, Old Cheese, Wheat-Flower, of each a like quantity; beat them well together with Wine, and make it up into Pellets as big as Pease; then cast them into the Water, and such Fish as eat thereof may be taken up with ones Hands.60

If you make a Composition of Aristolechia-Rotunda, Hogs Fat, and Lime, it will greatly at­tract Fish, which having tasted, will soon cause them to turn up their Bellies.

I might have inserted divers other Receipts; but these shall suffice, being enough for the pur­pose▪

CHAP. XXX.
Directions for preserving Fish both in Ponds and Rivers from devour­ing Creatures, such as Otters, Water-Rats, Herns, Coots, More-Hens Sea-Pies, &c.

BUt whilst we are endeavouring to teach you the Art of Killing Fish, I hold it not amiss to give you some Directions how to preserve them from the destruction of such Creatures as use to devour them.

Otters, and Water-Rats are great destroiers of Fish, especially in Ponds and Fresh Rivers; the best way to kill them is by Hunting them with Water-Dogs, and Otter-Hounds; you may also set dead Falls for your Rats in Holes which they frequent, and for your Otters you may poison them in this manner. Lay near his Retreat (which is easily found out) a Bait of an Eel, prepared which Arsenik, in this manner; Slit the back of the Eel above the Navel, and dexterously put into the Slit Three or Four Crums of Arsenick; then place the Eel from the Navel upwards out of the Water, the rest to be under the Water, having first sowed up the Slit. Now it is the property of the Otter to eat to the Navel, and seldom further; and you may be sure it will de­stroy him. You may also destroy the Otter with a Wheel, which is so ordinary and well known, that the naming it is sufficient. Yet I hold that the Wheel made with a double Tunnel is better than the single one.

The Herns, Sea-Pies, Cootes, Mews, More-hens; and King-Fishers, are great destroyers of Fish, es­pecially the young Fry; you must therefore be provided with Hooks and Lines baited proper for them, also with Lime-Twigs, Springes, and with a Gun, for all which you will find sufficient Di­rections in the Treatise of Fowling.

CHAP. XXXI.
Directions for making of Ponds, and storing them, &c.

NOw concerning Fish-Ponds, and the ma­king them, these Directions are necessary to be observed. Those Grounds are best which are full of Springs, and apt to be Morish, for the one will breed them well, and the other will preserve them from stealing. You are likewise to consider the Situation of the Pond, and the Nature of the Currents that fall into it; likewise that it be refresh't with a little Rill, or with the

The TABLE of the Contents of the several Things treated of in the respective Chapters in this Treatise of Fishing.

Chap. I.
  • Introduction 177
Chap. II.
  • Treats of Directions touching the choise of a Rod, ib.
Chap. III.
  • Treats of Lines, with Instructions for the making, colouring and preparing them 178
Chap. IV.
  • Instructions relating to Corks, Floats, &c. 179
Chap. V.10
  • Treats of the choosing, making and fixing of Hooks, and Plumets, and for sounding the Depths of Waters. ib.
Chap. VI.
  • Cautions to be observed in Angling, as to the Sea­son of the Weather, the time of the Day and Year, &c. 180
Chap. VII.
  • Concerning the Natures of Fish, in what Waters and Soyls they delight. 181 20
Chap. VIII.
  • Concerning Baits Natural and Living, Artificial and Dead, with the making and preparing them ib.
Chap. IX.
  • Some General Observations, Directions and Cauti­ons to be observed in Angling 183
Chap. X.
  • Treats of the Natures, Qualities, &c. of several sorts of Fish, with Directions to take them ib. 30
  • The Gudgeon ib.
  • The Roch ib.
  • The Dace 184
  • The Chub ib.
  • The Trout ib.
  • The Eel 185
  • Bobbing for Eels ib.
  • Snigling for Eels ib.
  • The Flounder ib.
  • The Char ib.40
  • The Guiniard 186
  • The Graling and Umbe ib.
  • The Stickleback ib.
  • The Minnow ib.
  • The Barbel ib.
  • The Bream ib.
  • The Tench 187
  • The Perch ib.
  • The Bleak 188
  • The Pope or Ruff ib.50
  • The Pike ib.
  • Trowling for Pikes 188
  • Snapping for Pikes 189
  • The Salmon ib.
  • The Millers Thumb, or Bull Head ib.
  • The Carp ib.
Chap. XI.
  • Directions for taking Fish by laying Hooks and Lines in the Water by Day or Night 191
Chap. XII.
  • Of Night-Angling and Ground-Angling 193
Chap. XIII.
  • Directions for taking and preserving Worms use­ful in Angling. ib.
Chap. XIV.
  • How to take Eels with a Spear, or Darting Hod much used in Flanders and Holland 194
Chap. XV.
  • How to take Frogs in a Dark Night, by Torch-light, useful for Baits. ib.
Chap. XVI.
  • A pleasant way to take Pikes, called Huxing th [...] Pike ib.
Chap. XVII.
  • Observations concerning Nets, very useful in Fish­ing. ib.
Chap. XVIII.
  • Directions for pitching a Net called the Raffle, both by Day and Night 195
Chap. XIX.
  • Directions for pitching a Net called the Wolf, toge­ther with its use and Form 196
Chap. XX.
  • Directions for pitching a Net called a Cinque-port, and its use ib.
Chap. XXI.
  • Inventions to draw or force Fish into such Nets as you set. 197
Chap. XXII.
  • A Device to take store of Fish at a Draught, and that in Difficult places by reason of Rocks, Roots, Stumps, Holes and the like ib.
Chap. XXIII.
  • An Excellent way to take all manner of great Fish by Night, with a Net and Fire 198
Chap. XXIV.
  • A Device to make a Fishery in any open River which wants Holes, and Weeds to shelter the Fish from great Heats and Colds in the nature of a Warren. 199
Chap. XXV.
  • The use of the Sprit Net, with a Device to take great Fish as well as small with it. 200
Chap. XXVI.
  • The use of the Casting-Net, with Directions to throw it off 201
Chap. XXVII.
  • Devices to take Cray-Fish very secure and pleasant ib.
Chap. XXVIII.
  • Directions to take Pikes as they lye sleeping and sun­ing themselves in fair clear Weather, the one with a Net, the other with a Runing knot of Horse Hair. 202
Chap. XXIX.
  • A Collection of several Artificial Baits, Recommen­ded be Authors of great Esteem that have been curious in studying the Natures of Fish, and the Art of Fishing. ib.
Chap. XXX.
  • Directions for preserving Fish both in Ponds and Rivers from Devouring Creatures, such as Otters, Water-Rats, Herns, Coots, Seapies, &c. 223
Chap. XXXI.
  • Directions for making Ponds, and storing them, &c. ib.
Chap. XXXII.
  • An Abstract of the Penal Statutes concerning the taking of Fish. 20 [...]

[Page]

To the Ri: Honourable Willi: Rerpepo [...]nt Earl of Kingston upon Hull, Vist ▪ Newarke upon Trent Baron of Holme-Re [...] repont, Manvers and Herris &c:

This Plate is Hum­bly Dedicated by Richard Blome.

AGRICULTURE, OR HUSBANDRY.

PART VI.
Treats of the Improvment of GROUNDS, by Enclosures, Draining, and overflowing by Engines. By good Manuring, Til­lage, Feeding, &c. with the benefit arising by the Trefoyl, Sainfoyn, and Clover Grass, shewing their Nature and for what Ground most fit. Of GARDENING for delight and profit, as the Rais­ing, Sowing and Setting of Seeds, Plants, and Flowers. Of FRUIT-TREES, and how to Raise, Graft and Inoculate them; with the benefit accrewing thereby; as also by Timber and other Trees. The several sorts of BEASTS, FOWL, and IN­SECTS necessary to be kept, and how to breed and order them; With a KALENDER, or Monthly Directions necessary to be known by the Husbandman.

CHAP. I.
The INTRODVCTION.

AGRICVLTVRE was of so as high an Esteem, and held so Honourable in For­mer Ages, that the Philosophers; nay, Kings and Pinces, were exceedingly delighted, not 10 only in Rural or Country Habitation, but did al­so Exercise themselves in this Noble Art. Giv­ing Rules and Precepts (which by their Writings they left to Posterity to their Immortal Fame. And the Romans had so high an Esteem for A­griculture, that they gave encouragement to the Industrious Husbandman, and punisht the negli­gent; And when they gave names to their Tribes called the chiefest of the States the Rustick Tribes, and the meaner in degree the Vrbane. 20

As to its Antiquity no Art stands in competi­tion with it; for all know that the Country Life was the most Antient; for in the Infancy of the World, Men inhabited in Tents, Woods, and such like places, instead of Houses, and lived on the Fruits of the Earth by their Labour.

Plato saith, That a Country Life is the Mistress, and as it were the Pattern of Diligence, Justice, and Frugality, and that he could find nothing more pleasant and profitable, than a Country Life, where they live free from Pride, Malice, Co­vetousness and Ambition. And Cicero discours­ing of the Utility of several Arts, concludes, that nothing is more advantageous and pleasant, nor more worthy an ingenious Spirit, than Agricul­ture.

Also Attalus, that rich Asian King, left his Regal Dignity, and betook himself to a Country Life, and was very intent in Agriculture, form­ing and planting several Gardens.

Likewise Dioclesian the Emperour, left his trou­blesom Empire, and betook himself to a Coun­try Life, and would not return to his Em­pire.

[Page 208] Many more Examples might be inserted, but these together with the multitude of the like Pre­sidents which our Age and Country Affords, may suffice to convince any one of the Pleasure, Dignity, Peace, Content and Utility of a Coun­try Life.

Agriculture is of a large Latitude comprehen­ding not only all things that are produced from the Earth, as all sorts of Grains, Fruits, Herbs, Plants, Roots, Flowers, &c. but also such things 10 that have their Nourishment from the Earth, as Cattle, Fowl, Insects and Fish. Now the Hus­bandmans great Skil and industry is to be used for the Improvement of the Earth to bring forth her better encrease, and how to Breed and order Cat­tle, Fowl, &c. for the most advantage. There­fore having so spacious a Field to walk in, I shall with what brevity I can, treat of the most essen­tial things, especially those that befit the quali­fication of a Gentleman to be a proficient in,20 omitting the Rustick part of Plowing and Sowing of Ground, as also the Reaping, Mowing, making and Housing the Corn and Hay.

This Treatise for Method sake shall be divi­ded into several Chapters, and first of Grounds and the Improvement thereof.

CHAP. II.30
Of Meadow and Pasture-Grounds and how to Improve them by En­closures, Draining, and over­flowing by Engines. As also by Manuring and feeding them; with 40 the great benefit arising by the Trefoyl, Sainfoyn, and Clover-Grass, shewing their nature and for what Ground most fit.

Of ENCLOSVRES.50

ENclosing of Land brings a very great bene­fit to the Husbandman, and that in several respects.

First, It ascertains every Mans just Proportion of Land. Secondly, It prevents abundance of Trespasses and Injuries between Neighbour and Neighbour. Thirdly, It gives great advantage for several sorts of Improvement, as planting the Hedgrowes with Timber and Fruit-Trees, by enriching it with Crops of Corn, if converted to 60 Arable, or by sowing it with some of the new French-Grasses as Sain-foyn, Clover or Lucern; by feeding it with Cattle, or Mowing it for Hay, which Improvements cannot be made in Champain Countreys that are destitute of Enclosures. Fouth­ly, It is observed that the Crops of Corn are bet­ter than in open Fields; for if the Hedgrowes are tall, they keep the Land warm, and shelter it from those pinching Winds that destroy much Corn; And the Hedgrows: being well planted with Trees, give good shelter and shadow for Cattle, both in Winter and Summer. Fifthly, The Hedgrows are very profitable, affording Firing and Wood for the making Plough, Carts and the like necessaries; and Sixthly, the Hedgrows are profitable for Mast for Swine, and for Fruit for Sider and Perry. All which reason being so demonstrative, there needs no further Arguments to be laid down or perswasons used for Enclosures. One thing more give me leave to add, that is, En­closed Grounds are far more pleasant and delight­ful than the open Champain, and afford more diversion.

In the making of Hedgrows these Cautions are to be observed; Not to plant Trees not natural­ly agreeing with the Soyl they were removed from; that is to say, not from a rich moist and worm Soyl, into a cold, barren and dry; not to plant them too deep, in the barrenest Earth; To defend them from the external injuries of Cold, Drought, or prejudice of Cattle, which must be by fencing or enclosing them in by an artificial dry Hedge on both sides.

For Hedges the best are Quickset of Whitethorn; and to set them on the flat is far better than on the side, if a dry Bank; as hath experimentally been found: Three Rows are sufficient for a good thick Hedge; the richer the Soyl is, the better will the Quick grow, and the sooner come to perfect­ion. You must keep them free from Weeds which may be easily done with a Hoe; if the Quick be set exactly in Ranges, and about Nine Inches asunder will be thick enough. The Nursery Quick doth far surpass that which is drawn up out of Woods or Hedgrows, therefore in the Sea­son when the Haws are ripe, let a sufficient quan­tity be gathered, and sown in a Bed well prepa­red in some convenient place in your Nursery, or Garden; after a Years growth they must be set, and if you keep them longer they should be transplanted into Beds, as being sown too thick.

For Marsh or Watery Meadows Quick-set Hedges are not so customary, yet they will grow well on the Banks, and are very serviceable and commodi­ous to Cattle; the most usual Fences are Willows, Popler and Osiers, being Aquaticks, and are very quick growers, and by consequence greatly pro­fitable; for tis observed that a Willow and an Oak being set at one time, the Willow will buy a Horse, before the Oak will buy a Saddle.

A Popler is also a quick grower, and affordeth a better Wood than a Willow. The Osiers are cut every Year, and are of great use for divers things about a Country-House, as for Baskets, Hurdles, &c. These, as also the Popler and the Willow, are cut from the Trees sharpned at the points, and so thrust deep into the Ground near the sides of Ditches, to the end they may have the benefit of the moistness of the Water to nourish them. Let the Sets be busht about to keep them from the injury of Cattle for Three or Four Years, and keep them clear from Suckers that will spring out in the Bodies, which hinder their heading.

[Page 209] The best way to set them is in Rows, and at about Five Foot asunder; but the Osiers are to be hrust in the Bancks close to the Water side, and at about 9 Inches distance.

Some are of Opinion, that Enclosures do oc­casion Mildews and Blastings; but that is a vulgar Error. 'Tis true, Wheat is subject to it, both in Champain and other Countreys, as well as in Enclosures, in Moist Years, and on Rich Grounds.10

Of Meadow and Pasture Grounds.

MEadow, and Pasture Grounds, are of two kinds, viz. Wet, and Dry: The Wet are properly called Marsh Grounds, being those that are subject to Overflowings, as well Naturally, as Artificially, by the help of Engines. The Dry Meadows are such as are Vplands, and by 20 reason of their Enclosures are subject to Improve­ments by propagating of new Grasses, or Hays; as the Clover, Trefoyl, Sainfoyn, &c. of which in order.

Of Marsh, or Wet Meadow Grounds.

WET Meadows may be considered under three distinct Heads; First, Such as lye near the Banks of Rivers on a Flat, and have the benefit of overflowing by Land-floods: Se­condly,30 Such that lye near Rivulets, and may be oversflown by stopping the Current, and turning it upon them: And Thirdly, Such Grounds that lye above the Surface of the Wa­ter, and are overflown by the help of Engines to raise up the Water, and cast it upon them. All which sorts of Ground are very improveable by Overflowing, especially by the first, as leaving a more Fatning Substance behind, so that the charge and trouble of Dunging such Grounds 40 may be spared; but for those that cannot be Overflown without the help of Engines, the Manuring is very profitable: for upon such the Water is made use of chiefly in a Dry Season, yet were they Overflown about a Month or five Weeks before Mowing time, the Advan­tage would be sufficiently found by the great Burthen of Grass, especially if it prove a Dry Season: Also to Overflow them after Hay-Harvest, will produce a Second Crop, or make 50 excellent good After-Pasture, recompencing the labour in a Tenfold manner. But by the way of Caution, let not the Water lye on the Grounds, if possible, above Forty eight Hours; for if it lieth too long it Chills the Ground, and doth far more hurt than good. Therefore your Grounds must so be ordered by Rillings, to carry off the Water into Ditches, and those Ditches to convey it into Rivers; and for the better perform­ing the same, the Bills and Ditches must always 60 be kept open, scoured, and in good order.

There are several sorts of Engines to be used for the Overflowing of Grounds, as the Persian-Wheel, so called, as being there first used, and is now very common in Italy, Spain, and France, and draws up great quantities of Water. This Engine is to be placed near the Banks of Rivers.

But although this Invention, as indeed the Wind-Mill Engine, and some others, are of good use; yet of late Years there are other of far more worth and excellency for this purpose, Invented by that Ingenious Gentleman, Sir Sa­muel Moreland; and which are exposed to Sale by his Substitutes, especially by one now dwel­ling in Southampton Buildings, London, where you may make choice of such as are most fit for your purpose.

Rules to be observed in the Overflowing of Grounds.

THe Water being raised to the designed height, let the main Carriage be cut, al­lowing it a convenient Descent, to give the Water a fair Current all along: Also let the Mouth of the Main Carriage be of breadth rather than depth, sufficient to receive the whole Stream desired, and when you use but a part of the Water, let the Main Carriage grow Narrow by degrees, unto the end the Water may press into the lesser Carriages that comes from the Main.

At convenient Distances, and where the Ground riseth, small Tapering Carriages should be cut proportionable to the distance and quan­tity of Water, or Land; for although it seemeth to waste Land by cutting so much Turf, yet it proves otherwise, for the more nimble the Water runs over the Grass it is the better, which is occasioned by making many Carriages, and those very shallow.

The Drains must be so made as to carry off the Water the Carriage brings on; for as the lesser Carriages convey the Water to every part of the Land, so must the lesser Drains be made amongst the Carriages in the lowest places, to convey away the Water, which must widen as they run, and the Carriages be lessened, for if the Water be not well drained off, it proves very prejudicial to the Grass; for in the Winter it killeth it, and in the Spring, or Summer, it obstructs its growth, and breeds Rushes and Weeds.

Of Dry Meadows, or Pastures, and the Improvements to be made thereon.

MAny good Meadows are spoiled by being pestered with Ant-Hills, Shrubs, Fern, Broom, or Goss, insomuch that good part thereby is lost, and cannot be Mowed, and that which remains is not so beneficial as if Mown, or Fed together. For the clearing the Ground of such Anoyances, Mr. Platt hath invented an Ingeni­ous Instrument, which something resembleth a three Tined Dung-Fork, but much larger and stronger, the Stale thereof being like a large and strong Leaver; which Instrument set about half a foot distance from the Root of the Shrub, then with an Hedging Beetle drive it in a good depth, and so force it up by the Roots.

[Page 210] For destroying Ant-Hills, being provided with a sharp Paring-Shovel, divide the Turf on the Top into four parts or quarters, laying them open several ways; then take out the Core, which spread on the Land, and lay the Turf again neatly in its place, but a little hollowing or sinking in, that is, lower than the Surface of the Earth, so that at the beginning of the Winter the Water standing therein will destroy the Re­mainder of the Ants, and by the Spring settle the 10 Turf.

In Cold, Moist, Claiy, Spewy, Mossy, or Rushy Ground, where the Pasture, or Hay is sowr and short, about July, or August, cause the Turf to be pared off and burnt, as hereafter shall be directed, and Plow it up; and in the Spring let it be Sown with Hay-Dust, or with Corn and Hay-Seed mixt together, which will cause a great fertility, and alter the Nature of the Ground.20

The best Season for Dunging of Meadows is in December, January, and February; for in these Pluvial Months the Fatness of the Soyl will be washed to the Roots of the Grass, before the Sun drieth it away; and for the breaking the Clods use a large Wad of Bushes, to draw over the Ground with a Horse in the nature of an Har­row; and what Stones are in the Dung cause to be gathered off the Ground, for they do not only hinder the growing of the Grass, but en­danger 30 the spoiling the Scyth in the Mowing it.

For such Grounds that are Sandy, Hot, and Dry, the best Manuring is Marl, Chalk, Lime, or the like Cold Soyls: and for Cold, Rushy, Spewy, and Mosly Lands, use Ashes of Wood, Turf, or Sea-Coal; also Pigeons Dung, and all Hot and Sandy Soyls; and betwixt these two Extreams, viz. Hot and Cold, the common Dung made by Horses and Cattle may be bestowed upon the 40 Grounds betwixt both.

Of the several kinds of Grass, and Hay. CLOVER GRASS.

THere are several sorts of Clover, but the best is that which is brought from Flan­ders, and bears the great Red Hony-Suckle, having a small Seed about the bigness of 50 Mustard Seed, and the best is of the greenest yellow Colour.

The best way to Sow this Seed, is to mix it with Ashes, Sand, fine Dust, or the like, that will help to fill the Hand, the Seed being so small, and therefore not so well to be Sowed of an exact thickness in all places of it self; yet good Seedsmen will do it well alone, and then it is best: Also observe in Sowing it, to chuse good Calm Weather. 60

The Season to Sow it is in the beginning of April, or latter end of March, if it be likely to prove a Dry Season; and you must allow to an Acre about a Gallon, or Nine or Ten Pound; some say less, but you had better over than under Seed it. The Land must be brought to a good Tillage, then Sow first your Corn, causing the Ground to be well Harrowed, and then the Clover-Seed, Harrowing it with a Bush to cover it over with Earth; for if you should do it with Harrows, the Corn would be raised up, and so spoil the Crop. Be sure to be provided with good New Seed, otherwise your Crop will be but indifferent, and there is great Deceit used in it by many Seedsmen.

This Grass is said to be so profitable, that it will produce three or four Crops in a Year, that is, three to Mow, and one to Feed; the first Crop may be cut in Mid May, which should be Cut green, and before the Stalk begins to grow too big, as also too Dry and Wither, unless it be kept for Seed, and then it must be quite Ripe, otherwise the Seed will be hard to Thresh out. Now for your Directions to know when it is Ripe, the Stalks will Dye, and turn of an yel­lowish Colour; but if you intend any for Seed, the best is the second Crop, about July: when the Seed is Threshed out, the Straw is good for little except the Fire.

Some are of Opinion, that the Clover will grow on any Barren Ground; but by Experi­mental Knowledge it is found otherwise, and that the Richer and Better the Ground is, the better will be the Clover; therefore Sow it not upon Heathy Barren Ground.

As to the Profit made of Clover Grass, an Acre of Ground (after the First Year, if it be well Husbanded, and good kindly thick Clover) may be worth Fifteen, or Twenty Pounds per Annum; for the two next Years, and as it degene­rates and becomes weaker, is less Worth, nor vvill it last above five Years. An Acre (if Fed) vvill keep four Cows all the Year at Pasturage, vvhich is a great Advantage. After the Strength of the Clover is gone, vvhich vvill be after four or five Years, the Ground vvill be very fit and good for Corn for two or three Years, and then it may be applyed for Clover again. It is not to let Cattle that are not used to this Food, to eat too liberal of it at first, for it being so sweet and luscious vvill Surfeit them; so that the best vvay is to Cut it, and give it them in Racks, as they do in Flanders. It is also good Food for Hogs, and will make them Fat.

An Acre of Clover may produce three or four Bushels of Seed, and about three Pecks is a good Days Work to Thresh.

SAIN-FOIN.

THe Soyls proper for this Grass are Barren, Dry, Stony Ground, hardly fit for Corn, or Grass; but all Clays, and other Cold, Wet Grounds, bear it not. There is such great Im­provement made by this Seed, that Grounds not vvorth 2 s. an Acre, may be made worth 30 or 40 s.

The Seasons for Sowing it are in Autumn, from the beginning of August until the end of Sep­tember; and in Spring, from the beginning of February until the end of March: And the Ear­liear it is Sown in either Season, the better it is. [Page 211] 'Tis a large and light Seed, and there must be Sowed four Bushels to an Acre.

In Autumn the Tillage must be as if for Wheat fine Plowed, and also as vvell Harrowed; and then Sow it, and Harrow it again to cover the Seed. In Autumn it must be always Sowed alone vvithout Grain; but in Spring vvith Oats, or Barley, Sowing the Corn but thin. In Spring the Husbandry must be the same in all respects as for Summer Corn, and Sown as before directed.10

Nevv Broken Ground can't be Sown vvith it; but if the Ground be presently turned up after the Crop is off, and vvell Harrowed, it may be fit to Sow the Spring following.

The Ground sowen with this Seed, must be well fenced in, and secured from Cattle the first Year; the second Year it may be Mowen, and fed about Alhallontide, but when the Weather is wet, the Cattle should be taken out for fear of Spoiling the Roots until they be strong, which 20 will be the third Year; and if it be not of a sufficient growth to Mow the second Year, (as sometimes it will not,) then feed it, observing the former caution not to let the Cattle too much trample it, until the third Year. But always after (as long as it lasts which may be thirty Years) it may be either Mown or Fed at pleasure, without any Emendation of Dung. But it is best to be sometimes Mown, and sometimes Fed; when it is designed to be Mown, it must be laid in about Our Lady Day; and 30 it will be fit to Mow in the middle of May, when it begins to Flower: It is made in all respects as other Hay, and is very good for all Cattle (ex­cept Sheep) as being too gross for them, breed­ing store of Milk; and in the Winter Season 'tis good for Sheep.

TREFOIL, or NONSVCH.

THis Grass is of that Nature to grow upon 40 the poorest Land that is; and although quite worn out by frequent Tillage, yet will pro­duce good and profitable Crops of Grass, and all Land naturally kind for Corn, and unkind for Grass, is kind for Trefoil.

The Pasture is very good for Cattle, especial­ly for Cows, causing great Increase of Milk; and the Hay is as Nourishing and Fatning, provided it be Mowed and made in good Season, whilst it is full of Yellow Blossoms, and not over-dryed,50 being soon made; and then it will not lose its colour, nor shrink in making as the Clover-grass doth, being much siner and greener. It is also exceeding good for Ews and Lambs, it being a sound feeding, and free from Rotteness; nor is it subject to Surfeit the Cattle as the Clover; and therefore it is very good for preventing this mis­chief, to mix in the Sowing one Moity of this Seed with another of Clover, which doth thrive very well together, and affords both good Hay, 60 as well as Pasturage.

The Trefoil will endure much longer if it stand not for Seed, for that is Destructive to the Root, and the Sap is gone that should nourish it; be­cause it must be cut late, and in the Heat of Sum­mer, always provided the Ground be Sown with clean Seed, separated from the Husk wherein it grows, otherwise your Expectation will fail in e­very point; for if it be not, it is impossible to cleanse it from the course and four Grass which mixes with it; and is so destructive to the Tre­foil, that it will not last half so long; for as the course Grass encreaseth every Year, so the other decreaseth. The next Year after the Corn, it may be either Fed or Mown.

The best Season for Sowing this Seed, either with Oats or Barly, is from Mid-March to the end of April; and it must be Sown after the Corn, as before directed for the other Seeds; and afterwards finely Harrowed, and Rowled. About a dozen pound of Seed is sufficient for an Acre.

Whereas Land that is brought out of Heart by frequent Tillage, produceth Couch-Grass, Twitch and the like Weeds, that are great Enemies to the Corn, and impoverisheth the Land; this Trefoil doth enrich the Ground, and prepares it for Corn, destroying the Couch-Grass, and the like Weeds if it be kept Mowed, and Plowed again before the Trefoil be decayed, and other Grass grow up in the Room; and will likewise bear far better Corn than before: And when it is again worn out, will bear good Trefoil as before.

La LVCERNE.

FOr Sowing this Seed, observe the same Me­thod in ordering the Ground as for the other Seeds. It must be sown about the Middle of A­pril, and some Oats may be sown with it, but not so great a proportion as with other Seeds. The Land must be well dressed, and at least three times fallowed. It may be Mown twice every Year, and Fed all the Winter; The Hay if well made and ordered, is very good for all kind of Cattle; especially for Horses; and is good to fat store Cattle. It must be give with Caution at the first, as directed for the Clover, for fear of Surfeiting, so that it is best to be mixed with Straw, or Hay. An Acre will serve three Hor­ses all the Year at Pasturage; and will soon raise them to Flesh, and make them Fat.

If it be Mown but once a Year, it will hold ten or twelve Years, but if twice a Year not so long.

There are several sorts of other Grasses, but these being the chief I shall omit the rest, only to say that Hop Clover, Trefoil, or Three Leaved Grass are both finer and sweeter than the great Clo­ver-Grass, and will grow in any Ground. They may be Sown with Corn as before directed, or with­out, or being Sprinkled in Meadows will much mend the Hay, both in Burthen and Good­ness.

CHAP. III.
Of Arable Land, how to order it with the several Grains usually Sown.10

THe great and chiefest knowledge of the Husbandman, consists in the Understand­ing the true Nature of the Ground, for every sort of Land almost requires a different sort of Husbandry; some Grounds yielding plenty of that which on another will not grow. The stiff and strong Ground receiveth the greatest Improvement from the Plough, and the light, warm and Mel­low Land is most fit for Plantations and Garden­ings; 20 not but that the Light and Mellow Ground is good for Corn, but the stiff is not so good for Plantations. Also Mossie, and such like Grounds are much improved by Ploughing.

All stiff, Clayey, moist and cold Grounds are generally thrice Ploughed for Wheat, and four times for Barley; for the several Ploughings are very Advantageous to the Ground in divers respects, as killing the Coutch, Twitch and the like Weeds that the Ground is subject unto; It also makes it light, Mellow and Finer for the Seed; and by giving it a Fallowing in the Sum­mer, is as good as a sorry Dunging to it.

Land that hath layn long for Pasture, will be 30 subject to Moss and Weeds, so that Ploughing of such Land for two or three Crops, will be very Advantageous, not only in the Crops, but also to the Ground, especially if when it is laid down it is Soiled, or Sown with some of the a­foresaid French Grasses.

There is much wast Ground in divers parts of this Kingdom, as Heaths, Moors, and Com­mons subject to Broom, Rushes, Fern, Heath and the like, which if enclosed and good Hus­bandry 40 used on them, would become good Grounds, Experience of which hath been made in many parts of England, on Ground that would scarce bear Grass, to produce good Crops of Corn; and the way to effect this is to Burn, or Denshire them as hereafter shall be Treated of; which is so exceed­ing Advantageous, that two or three Years Crops have been worth the Inheritance of the Land; and after two or three Crops of Corn being lain down for Pasture, and Sown with some of the afore­said 50 French Grasses, do become good Pasture Grounds, especially to what they were be­fore.

The severally sorts of Grain usual Sown in England.

THe Husbandmans great care is to understand the Nature and Temper of his Land, and 60 what Grain is best agreeable thereunto, otherwise he can expect but indifferent Crops.

There is no Grain so useful, and Universal as Wheat, of which there are several sorts, as the Poland Wheat both White and Red, Great and Small, the Straw Wheat, Rivet Wheat, both White and Red; The Turkey Wheat, the Gray Wheat, the Flaxen Wheat, which in some places is supposed to be called Lammas Wheat, Chiltern-Ograve Wheat, Sarasins Wheat, with other Names which tis probably may be the same sorts: Of these sorts some prove good for cold and stiff Land; and others for that which is Hot and Dry. The Great Pland and the Ograve delights in stiff Ground, the Flaxen and Lammas on indifferent Lands; and the Sarasins on any. The Bearded Wheat is not Subject to Mildews. The best Sea­son to Sow Wheat is about Michaelmas, and ra­ther when the Weather is wet than dry.

RYE is a Grain used next to Wheat for Bread, and both mixt together in the Sowing (which is called Measeline) makes an excellent sort of fine moist and Palatable Bread. This Grain may be Sown something later than Wheat, if of it self, and will Grow on a lighter and poorer Land; It requireth a dry Seed time, it is a great bearer, and yields an advantageous Crop.

BARLEY is a profitable Grain, but the Ground must be good and brought to a fine Tilt; the best Season is about the latter end of March, or be­ginning of April; and to be Sown when the Weather is dry, is very convenient.

OATS is a Grain much used in the Northern Parts of this Kingdom for their Bread, as also for their Malt, making good Beer. This Grain groweth almost on any Ground, nor is there that fineness of Tillage required as for Barley, for this may be Sown upon a Laye. The Season is in February and March. There are two sorts, the White or Polish Oat, which is a fine weighty Grain, and the Black Oat much Sown in Fenny Grounds, which sort of Corn is light, lank, long tayled, and not so good as the White.

PEASE are of great use and very profita­ble; there are several sorts, as the Green, the Gray, or Hog-pease, the large Rouncifals, and the White which are of several sorts, as the Hots­pur, Reading, Haisting, and Sandwich: And for the Sowing them, several Seasons are to be observed, that is, sooner or later as you would have your Crop to be Ripe; for the Hotspur about Christ­mas is a good time, but if the Season prove frosty somwhat later. Pease do much Mellow Land, making it fit for a Crop of Winter Corn; and it must be Sown in a good Ground, your Stony, Rushy Land being unfit for it.

BEANS delight in a strong deep Land, and are of chief use for fatting Hogs, and being ground and mixt with Oats, are a good strength­ening Food for Horses.

TARES, or Fetches are not of such great use, but Pigeons much delight in them. It is good Fodder for Horses if cut green. It requires indif­ferent good deep Ground, the Season is about Fe­bruary or March to Sow them.

LENTILLS, or TILLS are very good Fodder, they grow on any Ground, yet afford a great Encrease.

LVPINS are a pulse of a very great pro­fit, growing on any Sandy, Gravelly or Rushy Ground, being sodden in Water are good Food for Swine and Oxen.

[Page]

CERES

To the Worshipfull Thomas Fawkes of Farnley in the West riding of Yorkshire Esquire

This Plate is humbly Dedicated by Richard Blome.

[Page 214] good Crop, and curiously dryed it like unto Hops, to a perfect and just gage of Drought.

Of RAPE, or COLE-SEED.

THis Seed is very profitable to be Sowed upon Marsh, or Fenny-Land, or indeed upon any Moist Ground, that is of a fat and rich Soyl. The best Seed is the biggest, and it must be dry and of a clear Colour, like the best 10 Onion-Seed.

The Season for Sowing it is about Midsummer, and the Land must be well Plowed, laid Fine, and Even; about a Gallon will Sow an Acre, and for the Sowing it Even, it should be mixt with fine Dust, or Ashes, as before directed for the Clover.

The principal use of this Seed is for making Oyl, and a good Crop is about five Quarters, and commonly worth 4 s. a Bushel. When it looks 20 Brown it is time to Reap it, which must be done as Wheat, only it is not to be bound up, but must lye in handfuls upon the Ground until it be dry, which will be about a Fortnight, and when it is dry it must be gathered up on Sheets, or large Sail-Cloths, and so carried into the Barn to Thresh, for fear of shedding, to which it is much subject.

Directions for the Preparation of the Seed.30

BY Nature every Seed is found to differ from another, and to require a different Nourishment, insomuch that one sort of Seed will thrive where another sort will not; and by Experience it is found very advantagious for the Husbandman to change his Seed, especially for Land that is tyred out with frequent Tillage, into-Land newly broken up; and from dry, barren and hungry Ground, to that which is fat 40 and rich. The like is observed by Cattle that are taken out of barren, short, or sour Pasture, and put into that which is good and sweet, how they thrive over those that are not exchanged. The like is observed by Trees that are removed out of Barren bad Ground, into a good rich Mould.

Seeing then the Husbandmans great care is to Manure and Enrich his Ground. I shall with what brevity I can give an Account of the seve­ral 50 ways, and Soyls, or Composts, for effecting the same.

CHAP. IV.
Of Manuring, Dunging, and Soyl­ing of Lands.60

Soyls and Manures taken from the Earth.

LIMING of LAND is very good, much improving Barren Ground; about fifteen or twenty Quarters of Lime is sufficient for an Acre: Also a mixture of Lime and Dung is a very good Compost for Land. But where there is not the conveniency of a Kiln, to burn the Chalk into Lime, simple Chalk may be used, which by Frosts and Rains will be dissolved, and prove a good enrichment to the Ground, and will also be very good to mix with Dung: That which is called Chalk-Rubbish, being the Offals of the Lime, is the best for this pur­pose.

MARL is very good for the enriching of Land, insomuch that it is commended by all Authors; there are several kinds of it, as some Stony, and some Soft, and some of divers Colours, as White, Yellow, Gray, Black, Blew, Russet, and Red.

It is of a Cold Nature, and very much saddens Land; the Goodness and Badness there­of is not so much known by the Colour, as by the purity and uncompoundedness of it, being smooth like Lead-Oar, without any composition of Sand, or Gravel.

It is an excellent Improvement to High, Dry, Sandy, Gravelly, or Mixt Lands, though never so Barren, keeping them in good heart fifteen or twenty Years, and on some Grounds a longer time; but its strength and vertue will not ap­pear the first Year, so much as in the succeeding Years, until it begins to wax out of heart.

Strong Clay Ground is not proper for Marl.

In the Spring lay the Marl on Light, Dry, Sandy, and Gravelly Grounds, as aforesaid; and in the beginning of Winter on Hard and Binding Grounds, and spread it abroad, that the Frost may moulder it in pieces. Yet some are of Opi­nion, that the Winter Season is the best to lay it on, for any sort of Ground.

FVLLERS-EARTH is likewise a good Soyl, and is to be used after the matter of Marl.

CLAY is a very good Improvement to Dry, Light, and Sandy Ground, being spread thereon like Marl, or other Soyls.

By the same Rule that Clay is good for Light and Sandy Ground, SAND is good for Strong, Cold, and Stiff Land, a sufficient quantity there­of being laid thereon; but as to the quantity, it is good to try the Nature of the Ground, and accordingly add a greater or lesser proportion. The best and fertilest Sand is that which is washed from the Hills, or other Sandy places, by the violence of Rain.

Sand is also very good to mix with other Compost, and for raising a good quantity thereof, in the Winter House your Sheep, and other Cattle, but not altogether, for fear of spoyling one another; and there fodder them, having Racks placed up and down in the said Houses. Let there be first spread on the Floor a good thick Coat of Sand, and short Mushy Straw, good for little else, upon which they will Piss and Dung; and when it is well covered therewith, then lay on another Coat of Sand and Straw; and this course using will make a considerable quantity of very good Soyl, for the enriching of any sort of Ground.

[Page 215] The DIRT, or Soyl of TOWNS, is a very good Improvement.

Soyls taken from the Sea-Shoar.

THe SANDS of the Sea-Coast, and Creeks, being of a Saltish nature, is very good for the Improving of Barren Land, and is much used in the Western parts of England. The like they do by Soyling their Land with the 10 Sea-Weeds, Sea-Owze, or Owzy-Mud, which turns to a very great Advantage.

In some places, when the glut of the Season of Fishing is, and that they are very cheap and plentiful, cast a good quantity upon the Land, which will cause an exceeding great Fertility, though never so Barren before. And without doubt there is nothing that proceeds from the Sea, or Rivers, whether Fish, Garbish of Fish, Shells, Sand, or Mud, but is very profitable to 20 the enrichment of the Ground, if Judiciously applyed.

Of Dungs, and other sorts of Soyls, and Manures.

SHEEPS-DVNG is the best and richest, so that the Folding them on the Land (which is but a thin sprinkling) causeth as great a Fertility as an indifferent Dunging.

HORSE-DVNG, which is the most com­mon,30 by reason of their keeping in Stables, and their Soyl preserved and cast up in Dung-hills to Rot with the Litter, is also a very good Manuring to Land, being of a hot Nature, and therefore excellent for Gardens, as also for Cold Grounds.

COW-DVNG is of a colder quality than that of Horse or Sheep, and therefore more fit for hot and sandy Grounds.

SWINES-DVNG is very good, and esteem­ed better than Cow-Dung; and great quantities 40 may be made from about a Score of Hogs, if well ordered; which is to keep them up in a Yard of an indifferent largeness, well Paved, with a little Falling one way, to the end their Piss may fall to one part where the Dung should be Shovelled up to Rot. Let their Sheads, or Styes, be made along the side of the Pales, at the Upper part. The Hog-Troughs should be fixed in the Ground, with some part without the Yard, for the better conveniency of giving them 50 Meat therein without coming into the Yard; and for the making the greater quantity of Dung, cast into the Yard (besides their other food, as Roots, Offal, Wind-falls of Fruit in the time of the Year, Coleworts, and Cabbage-Leaves,) great store of Fern, or Mushy Straw, to make Dung of, which they will soon do by their Trampling, Lying, and Dunging upon it, inso­much that there may be made yearly of good Soyl out of such a Hog-Yard, about forty or fifty 60 Loads.

The Dung of FOWLS, as Pigeons, Hens, Ducks, Geese, and Turkeys, is excellent, one Load being worth a Dozen of ordinary Dung, so that instead of laying it on the Land in the ordinary Husband-like way, it should be sown on the Ground.

WOOD-ASHES makes a good Dung, and enricheth Land; so doth those of Sea-Coal, Peat, Turf, Fern, Stubble, Straw, and Moss, in cold Marsh, or Meadow Grounds: And if Sea-Coal Ashes are mixt with Horse-Dung, they make an excellent Compost for divers uses.

SOAP-ASHES are esteemed a very good Soyl both for Arable and Pasture Ground; that is, the Stuff that comes from the Soap-Lees, when the Soap-Boylers have done with it. The best Season to lay it on the Ground is in the beginning of Winter, that the Rain may wash it into the Earth.

RAGS are excellent Soyl for Land, one Load going as far as a Dozen of ordinary Dung.

MALT-DVST is a very great enricher of Barren Ground. The way to use it is thus; After your Corn is Sown and Harrowed in, take the Malt-Dust and Sow it over the Ground, as you do Corn; about four Quarters is sufficient for an Acre, and as near as you can let the Dust be Sown in a Wet Season, that the Rain may wash it into the Earth. This is as good an enrichment to Ground (especially for one Crop) as an ordi­nary Dunging. This Malt-Dust is to be bought of Malsters, or great Brewers, and for about 3 s. the Quarter.

HAIR, HORN-SHAVINGS, Shreds and Pieces of LEATHER, are found to en­rich Ground very much, being thinly strewed thereon.

SOOT is very good, especially that which is made of Wood; It is most beneficial to Trees, or Plants, that either grow in the Shade, or in Cold and Moist Grounds.

SALT, if used with moderation, is said to be a good Improver of Barren Ground, and doubt­less it is true; for by Experience it is found, that Corn being steeped for some time in Brine, doth not only cause Fertility, but also prevents Soot in the Ears, and some say Bliting also; but that I shall not aver.

The ways and means of Improvement of Grounds by Dunging and Soyling, as aforesaid, is very good and effectual; but in many places very chargeable and troublesom, by reason that it can't be obtained but at dear Rates by Carriage, or otherwise; so that the profit accruing thereby will not answer the Expence and Trouble. In this case your Art must be used to the Seed de­signed to be Sown on such Land, and for that, there are several ways to be used, some of which are as followeth.

Let your Corn be steept in Dung-water for some time, wherein put some Salt-Peter; then lay it to dry on some Floor, and so Sow it. It is also good to steep the Corn in new Ale, or Wort; but more effectual to steep it in Nitre, or Sal-Terrae, which is so highly extolled by Glanber, being that fixed Salt extracted out of any Ashes either of Vegetables, Animals, or Minerals, that are throughly calcined.

SHEEPS, or PIGEONS-DVNG, dis­solved in Water, with Salt cast therein, is very good to steep Corn in: But above all take ten, or twenty Gallons of Train-Oyl, or such a quan­tity as you shall have occasion for; put it into a [Page 216] large Vessel, and cast therein your Corn, that is, such a quantity as the Oyl will well cover, and there let it lye and steep until it be supple, and as it were glutted therewith; then take it out, drain it, and spread it on a Floor, and with a Sieve sprinkle it over with slack't Lime; then with your Corn-shovel let it be turned, that the Lime may encrust the Corns, or Grains, all over, and so Sow it. This way is recommended for an excellent Improvement, exceeding all the 10 others; for the Oyl is fatning, and the Lime doth preseve it from Vermin, as also from Smut.

There is another compound Liquor, which is said to surpass the former; that is, Take a quan­tity of unslack't Lime, put thereto as much Water as will make it swim about four Inches above the Water, and unto the Water that is poured off mix one tenth part of Aquavitae, and in that Liquor steep your Corn about twenty four Hours; then take it forth and dry it; which done, put it 20 in the said Water again, and let it steep twenty four Hours more; then take it forth and dry it; and ob­serve the like way a third time; then Sow it, but so thin, that every Corn, or Grain, may be about nine Inches apart, if possible; and 'tis said, that one Grain will produce thirty or forty Ears, very large, with a large and tall Stalk; but this I leave to Trial, not averring it for Truth.

Of BVRNING of LAND.30

THe Burning of Land, or indeed any other operation on it by Fire, is a very great Improvement to Barren and Poor Ground, be it wet, or dry; and this is the only Improvement the Americans use; for the Burning of any com­bustible thing on the Land doth much heat the Ground, and wastes that Acid sterile Juyce that hinders its Fertility.

This Art of Burning of Land, commonly cal­len 40 Denshiring, is not to be practiced on Ground of a good, rich, and loose Soyl, that produceth flourishing Crops; but only upon Barren, Sour, Hide-bound, and Rushy Ground be it either dry, or wet; hot, or cold.

The usual way to effect the Burning of Land is as followeth, you must be provided with a Breast-Plough to pare off the Turf, which must be turned over as it is cut, that it may dry the better; and if it prove a Wet Season, the Turf 50 must be turned again, and set up hollow, the better to dry; and being throughly dryed, they must be gathered up and put in small Heaps, of about two Wheel-barrows full in an Heap. If the Turf be full of sibrous Roots, or hath a good Sword of Grass upon it, it will burn without any other Addition of Fewel; if not, the Heaps must be raised on a small Bundle of Goss, Fern, or Straw to set it on fire; and being consumed to Ashes in a still time (when the Wind will not 60 hinder the equal scattering) let them be strewed on the Land. Then on those places where the Hillocks were, the Farth must be pared away, to abate its over Fertility, caused by the Fire made thereon.

And Note, That the Land must be but shallow, or half Plowed, and not above half Seeded, and also Sowed late in the Season, to prevent the over-rankness of the Corn; but for the second Crop observe the usual Husbandry as to your other Grounds.

CHAP. V.
Of Herbs, Roots, Fruits, Plants, &c. Planted and Propagated in the Kitchin-Garden; with In­structions how to Sow, Raise, and Order them according to the several Seasons, as well those for Food, as others for Advantage.

Of HOPS.

HOPS are now grown a National Commodity, although formerly Petitioned in Parlia­ment by the Londoners, to be Prohibited the Im­portation or Growth in this Kingdom, as a Nu­sance, or an Offensive Commodity, for that it would spoil their Drink, and endanger the Peo­ples Healths, it being an unhealthful Herb, oc­casioning the Stone; for before Hops were used in Drink, that Disease was not known in this Kingdom: However it advanceth Land to such an Improvement, that sometimes an Acre is worth Fifty, or Sixty Pounds; but it is an uncertain Crop, for overmuch Drought, or Wet, spoils it; the like doth Mill-dews, which makes the Price so uncertain.

The Hop delights in the richest Land, or deepest Mould, and Light (if mixed with Sand) is the better; also black Garden Mould is very good; but a Barren Moorish Soyl is altogether unfit for it.

If it lyes near the Water, and yet Dry, it is the better. It also ought to lye warm, and free from the North and East Winds, as being shel­tred by Hills, or Trees.

If the Land that you design for a Hop-Garden be cold, stiff, four, or barren, it will be conve­nient to burn it about the latter end of Summer, and to make the Ground mellow, light and free from Weeds by sowing it with Turnips, Hemp, or Beans; And fail not to Till it in the begining of Winter with the Plough or Spade, be it in what condition soever.

For the planting the Ground, the best way is to make the Hill where the Plants are to be set in Squares, by which means the Ground will be better to plough, and at every place where there is to be a Hill thrust down a small Stick for your directions, the better to make the Hill; and if the Ground be poor and stiff, make the Holes good by putting therein good Mould or rotten Dung, which will sufficiently repay the charge and trou­ble.

[Page 217] As to the distances of the Hills, if the Ground be deep, moist, and of a rich Mould, about Eight Foot asunder is convenient; but if of a dry and burning quality, then not above Six: And let the Ground be what it will, so order it that there may be room to come between, and that they may receive the influence of the Sun; for in moist Years the Hops grow large, so that the wider the Hill the better; and in hot and dry Years they grow thin, so that the nearer they are the 10 more Hops they bear. Let the Hills be made of a middle size, for if they are big, they re­quire the greater quantity of Poles, and cannot be so conveniently drest.

The Season for planting your Hops is about the end of March or beginning of April, but expe­rienced Planters affirm that the best time is in Octo­ber, for then the Hops will settle againt the Spring.

Let the Sets be the largest you can get, with 20 Three or Four Bads; and before you take the Sets out of the Ground, let the Holes be ready to receive them, and made as deep as the Plant or Set, and about a Foot over, and at every corner of the Hole put a Set, and raise the Earth Two or Three Inches above it; but if you Plant so late that the Green Sprigs are shot forth, then cover them not quite for fear of killing them.

If your Hops are Old or Worn out of Heart, through ill Husbandry, then about the begining 30 of Winter dig them, and take away as much of the Old Barren Ground, as you conveniently can, and in the Room thereof (after they are dressed) put good rich Mould, or Rotten Dung, which will exceedingly Nourish and revive the Roots; and the Winter digging or tilling will de­stroy the Weeds and Couch Grass: But if the Hops be strong and in good Heart, then dress them not until March, or the beginning of April, and in dressing the Hops, these Rules are to be observed,40 viz. Pull down your Hills, and undermine them round about to come to the principal Roots, and shake off the Earth from the Younger Roots, and cut them away, preserving well the old Sets, and in the First Years cutting uncover no more than the Tops of the Old Sets, and cut not the Roots before March, although you pull down the Hills sooner. The Roots, that grow downwards are not to be cut, but only such that grow outwards at the sides of the Sets. The Old Roots are red,50 those of the last Years white.

For the Poling Hops, if the Hills are wide, the more Poles are required, and if the Ground is hot, dry, and hungry, the Poles, may stand nea­rer together than in Rich and Mellow Ground; where they must be also larger, and longer, other­wise the best profit will be lost; whereas on the contrary if the Land is Poor the Poles must be small, for if over-poled the Hop will run it self out of Heart, especially the First Year: And be­gin 60 not to Pole until your Hops appear above Ground, for then you may discern where the bigest Poles are required; and you may continue Polling until the Plants are about a Yard in height. Poles of Alder are esteemed the best, as being Streight and tapering, and of a rough Rind, so that the Hop, will not so easily slip down; But for lasting the Ash is to be preferred before the Alder. Be sure to fix the Poles deep in the Earth that the Wind force them not out, and let them lean outwards from one another to prevent Hous­ling as they call it, for thereby they will have the greater benefit of the Sun, and by conse­quence bear more and better Hops; and you should be always provided with spare Poles if in case any should break, for if the Hops lie on the Earth they will soon Perish.

Your Hops being got Two or Three Foot a­bove Ground, it is time to fix them to the Poles, by winding them about according to the Course, of the Sun, and by fastning them thereto; but in doing this be sure not to break the young and tender Shoots.

In April and May your care is required to be guiding the Shoots to the Poles as you would have them, which may be done with forked Sticks where they are out of your reach.

About Midsummer the Hops begin to leave shoot­ing or runing at length and then begin to Branch; at which time those that are not at the Tops of Poles, should be nipt off at the Top, to cause them to Branch the better.

In May after Rain, you should pare off the Sur­face of the Earth, with a Spade, Hoe, or Breast Plough, and with the parings raise up the Hills, burying all Superfluous Shoots of the Hops, as also the Weeds.

If it prove a dry Summer, it is requisite to Water the Hops, making a Hole in each Hill, the better to receive the Water, and then raise up the Hills to keep the Roots cool; once or twice watering is sufficient in the dryest Sum­mer.

About the End of July Hops blow, about the begining of August they Bell, and are ripe in the latter End of August, or begining of September. The Signs of their being ripe are the changing their Colour to brounish, and their fragrant smell.

The best way for gathering Hops is in a Frame, or Bin, made for that purpose of Canvass, and short Poles to remove from place to place, and the Pickers to stand on each side to gather the Hops, and so convey them to drying; but cut no more Stakes, nor draw no more than can be dispatched in an hour or two, for fear of Rain; and let them not be over Ripe before you gather them, for fear of shedding the Seed, which is the strength of the Hop: and gather them as free from Leaves and Stalks as possible.

About Four Pound of Hops throughly ripe will make One Pound when dryed; but if gathe­red before they are so Ripe, then there will be a­bout Five Pound to make one. Great care is re­quired in the well drying the Hops, for a little quantity slack dryed will spoil divers Pounds.

These are several ways, as in Kilns made for that purpose, first invented in Holland; but that which seemeth easier, and better, is to dry them on an ordinary Malt-Kiln on a Hair-cloth, laying them about Five or Six Inches thick, and when they are almost dry, to turn them up side down with a Scoop made for that purpose, and so let them lye until they are throughly dryed, and [Page 218] then remove them in the Hair-Cloth to the Heap where they are to lye till picked. In stead of the Hair-Cloth some use a Tin-Floor, or Bed, to lay over the Kiln, to put the Hops in, which is prefer­red far before any of he the former ways, as being more sure, less expensive, and more expeditious.

Before you Bag up the Hops, after they come from the Kiln, let them ly Three or Four Weeks to cool and toughen, otherwise they will be brittle, and break to Powder. The better the 10 Bags are trod the better will the Hops keep.

Clear your Hop-Poles from the Hawm, and lay them up in some Barn, or dry Shed, for use the next Year, for Poles are chargable, especially in many parts of England.

Of SAFFRON.

THis is the richest Commodity that this King­dom produceth, quantity for quantity; 20 and is very sovereign for divers Diseases, and much used for several occasions. The best Sea­son to plant, or Set it, is about Midsummer, and the Land must be brought into a very good and fine tilt, and of a rich Soyl; for the better the Land is the better Crop it will produce. For the Plant­ing the Sets you must make use of a very broad H [...]e, and with that draw the Land into Ranges open like Furrows (as if for Pease) and about Two or Three Inches deep, in which the Sets are 30 to be planted about Three Inches asunder. Let the Ranges be well covered over with Earth and about Four Inches asunder, very streight, to the End the Ground may be the better Hoed to clear the Weeds. The Winter following it grows green like Chives, or small Leeks, and in the begining of the Sumer it quite dieth as to appearance, but it must be clean H [...]ed, and then will come up the Flower without the Leaf which in September appears like the Blue Crocus, in the midst of which 40 comes up Two, or Three Chives of a deep yellow, which is the Saffron, which is to be gathered from the Flower, and very early in the Morning otherwise it will return back into the Earth until the next Morning. The Season lasts about a Month for the gathering it, so that you must have many Hands to pick it.

The best way to dry it is to make use of a Kiln made of Clay and Sticks in the fashion of a Bee-Hive, but not so big, and a little Fire made 50 of Char-Coal, being carefully tended, will serve to dry it, for it must not be too dry.

An Acre may produce Fourteen, or Fifteen, Pound of good Saffron; but Eight or Ten Pound is reckoned an indifferent good Crop.

When the Crop is off, about Midsummer is the time to take up the Sets, or Plants, and to set them again as before directed, which course must be ob­served every Year, for a Crop will hold good but one Year.60

The Country about Saffron-Walden in Essex is noted for this Commodity.

Of LIQVORICE.

THe best Land for Liquorice is the richest, warmest, dryest, and of a very deep Soyl: Before the Sets are Planted, the Ground must be dug, or rather Trenched about three Spades depth, and laid as light and hollow as possible: And if the Ground be not Naturally very rich, it must be made so by Manuring, for which Horse-Dung is esteemed the best, as being hot­test.

Your Land being well prepared, and laid ou [...] into four Foot Beds; you must get the best and largest Sets you can, which are those called Crown-Sets, or Heads taken from the top of the Root, or a little shived down; and Plant the Sets in Beds at about a Foot distance from each other, with a Dibber, or such like Tool, to make Holes in the Ground, and let the Earth be well closed. If it prove a very dry Season when they are Planted, which is in the Months of February, and March, then let them be Water­ed for two or three Days at the first, or so long until you find they have recovered their wither­edness.

This Crop comes not to perfection until the third Year to take up, but the first Year you may Sow the Ground with Onions, Lettuce, or any Sallet Herbs that take not deep Root down­wards; and afterwards keep the Beds and Alleys well Hoed, and clear from Weeds.

In November and December is the best Season to take up the Liquorice; and observe that in the taking them up there will run from every Master Root a Runner, which runs all along the upper part of the Ground, which hath little Sprouts and Roots, which will yield excellent Sets, if they be cut three or four of them in every Set, and about four or five Inches long, which also Plant, being as good as the Crown-Set; and if it be a moist Season, the Branches may be Planted betwixt the Set to thicken them.

In Planting the Liquorice, be sure to have your Ground ready prepared before you take the Sets out of the Ground, for they will soon wither and be spoiled, and make all the possible hast you can in Planting them.

Of TOBACCO.

THis is a very Advantageous Plant, and of great esteem in this Age; it would grow very well in this Kingdom were it allowed, but by reason of its Prohibition, I shall not proceed to give Directions for the Planting, Dressing, Ordering and Curing it.

GARDEN-BEANS and PEASE.

BBEANS are of several sorts, and known by divers Names, as the Windsor and the Sand­wich, which are the chief, and the largest are esteemed the best; yet many are of Opinion that the middle sized Beans (provided they are sound) are the best, that is, they go farthest, there being the greater Number to fill the Bush­el.

Beans delight in a rich, stiff and deep Mould; good Husbandry ought to be used in digging the Ground well; the Season to set them is from Christmas to Candlemas, and also earlier or later, [Page 219] according to the Season of the Year; but if too early, then great Frosts coming after they are Spired, will kill them; and if too late, they must be steeped in Brine, or such Water, as before prescribed for Steeping Corn in; and observe to set them very near when the Moon is in her Wane.

It is the common and usual way to Set them here and there promiscuously in Holes made with a Dibber; this way I do not approve of (as by Experience finding it not the best) but make Ran­ges 10 with a Hoe about three Inches deep, very streight, and let the Ranges run from South to North, for the greater benefit of the Sun, and this way they bear far more, the Sun and Air having a freer passage between them; also it is more commodious to go between them to Weed, Top, and gather them. You may Sow them thicker or thinner according to the goodness of the Ground, and your own Discretion; when they are sown, with your Hoe raise up the 20 Earth about them. Let the Ranges be about two Foot and a half, or three Foot asunder; and that you may not lose Ground, Carots may be Sown betwixt the Ranges, which will prove a good second Crop. In gathering Green Beans it is not good to pull them from the Stalks as is usual, for that prevents the thriving of the younger Cods not ripe, but cut them off with a Knife; and if you cut off the Stalks close to the Ground when the Beans are gathered, 'tis probable you 30 may have a Second Crop before Winter.

PEASE are of Sundry sorts, viz. Hotspurs, of which there are the Barns Hotspur, the short Cod Hotspur, and the long Cod Hotspur; they are usually Sown in November and December, and sometimes in January, they will be very early ripe provided the Ground is rich and warm; The Sandwich white Pease; The White, Grey, Blew, Green and Maple Reuncival; the large and small White Sugar Pease; the Grey Sugar Pease; the 40 White Rose and the Grey Rose Pease; the Egg, the Wing, and the Sickle Pease; the Sugar Pease which is to be eaten in their Cods like unto French-Beans, and by reason of their tenderness are to be Sown late.

Your Ground must be well ordered, if you ex­pect a good Crop, especially if it be Ploughed; and Sow them in Ranges made with a Drill Plough, or for want thereof with a Hoe indifferent deep, earthing them well over; and when they are come 50 up, earth up the Roots, which is a great preser­vative to them, especially in a dry time, and keep them well Hoed and free from Weeds. Those that have but small quantities to set, and have the Conveniency of Sticks, may use them for the Pease to run upon, which doth occasion a far greater encrease.

FRENCH-BEANS.

FRench-Beans, or Kidney-Beans are of three 60 sorts, viz. White, Speckled, and those called the Canterbury Kidney Bean; the White is esteemed the best. They are very tender at their first coming up, so that they must be Sown in warm Weather: April being a good Season. To cause them to come up the sooner, steep them in Water as aforesaid. It is a very great bearer, and would be very profitable to Sow them for a ripe Crop for Poultrey; but the usual use of them is for the Kitchin, being esteemed a very good Dish; and therein made use of several ways.

ARTICHOAKS.

THis is an excellent Plant, and very strength­ning; the Ground fit for them must be deep, and of a very rich Soyl, and Trenched up with Dung in the Winter, to make it the bet­ter, which will produce the larger Choaks.

The Slips that grow by the sides of the Old Stubs serve for Plants, which are to be taken from them, and Planted in April, the Ground being well Dug; and they must be kept well watered until they have taken Root; and if they be strong, they will bear Heads the Autumn following. They are to be Planted four or five Foot distance one from another, and kept well Weeded; and if the Summer prove dry, they must be Watered. This is a lasting Crop for divers Years, but your care must be to look after them in the Winter, to preserve them from the pinching cold Frosts, by cut­ting the Stalks within about a Foot of the Ground; and raise up the Earth about them like unto Mole­hills, within two or three Inches of the top, and that covered over with long Dung; but do not Earth them up too soon, for fear of Rotting them: When the Winter is spent, uncover them, and lay them open by little and little, lest the Air pinch them as being tender; then Trim them up very well, taking away most of their small Slips, not leaving above three of the strongest to each Foot for Bearers, and dig about the Roots as deep as conveniently you can, adding thereto good rotten Dung.

If you would have Choaks in Autumn, cut the Stems of those that bore in the Spring, to hin­der them from a second Crop, and in Autumn these lusty Stocks will bear very good Choaks; but you must take away the Slips that draw the Substance from the Plants, and dig about them, dressing and watering them as occasion re­quires.

JERVSALEM-ARTICHOAKS.

THese are much of the Nature of Potatoes. but are neither so toothsom, nor so whol­som, nor are they in any request; they are planted of the Roots, or come of the Seed.

COLLYFLOWERS.

THis Plant is raised from Seed, which is sown in August, and carefully preserved in the Winter, being a tender Plant; or you may sow them in the Spring in a Hot Bed, and remove them when they have indifferent large Leaves, and set them in good rich Ground, well prepa­red for that purpose; but the best way is to dig small Holes about a Foot Square, and fill them with good rotten Dung mixt with rich Mould, and therein Plant the Collyflowers very deep, almost covering the Leaves, and be careful to water [Page 220] them well, especially in a dry Season, otherwise they will not Flower. Let the Holes be about three Foot apart, and set in Ranges, to the end the Ground may be the better Hoed, and kept from Weeds.

CABAGES.

THere are divers sorts of Cabages, those most common are the English, the Dutch, the Rus­sia, 10 and the Red Cabage, of which the English and Dutch (which are generally very large and firm) are the best.

The Ground ought to be very good, rich, and of a deep Mould: and the manner of setting them is in Holes, as before directed for Colly­flowers; They require Watering, especially at the first setting, until they draw Root: It is most convenient to set them in Ranges, at about four Foot asunder, if of a large kind, otherwise three 20 Foot is enough.

The Slugs are very injurious to them, so that if they are not carefully looked after until they are grown pretty large, they will destroy them; therefore every Morning very Early, and every Evening about Sunset they should be pick'd off the Leaves, for at other times in the Heat of the Day they are not to be seen; Now to ease your self of this Trouble get a parcel of Ducks, and they will do that business, for the Slugs are good Food 30 for them.

The Cabage Seed is to be Sown between Mid­summer and Michaelmas, that it may gain Strength to defend it self against the pinching Cold, and in some Years the sharp Frosts kill them. The Seed is also to be Sown in a Hot Bed in the Spring, and then in April, or beginning of May they may be Transplanted into your Grounds, as before directed.

Many ordinary Grounds will produce Cole­worts, 40 and indeed if the Cabage Plants are not good, or if they be set too thick, they will turn to Coleworts.

These, as also the Ossal Leaves of Cabages, are very good Food for Cows and Swine, so that were they Planted for no other use, it were beneficial enough. They are also excellent for Rabets, ei­ther Wild or Tame.

If you would preserve any Cabage Seed, let it be of the very best; and let them be placed very low in the Ground during the Winter Season, to 50 preserve them from Frosts and Cold Winds, co­vering them with Earthen Pots, and warm Soil over the Pots, and at Spring Plant them forth.

SAVOYS.

THese are of two sorts, Dutch and English; they are in Season earlier than Cabages, and are more sweet: They are raised, and Plan­ted 60 much after the same manner as Cabages, but not so much Curiosity is required about them.

POTATOES.

THis is a Root in great Request in our Ame­rican Plantations, as also in Ireland, no doubt but it will grow well in England, were it Planted here. They require good Garden Mould, and are easily encreased, for the Roots, if cut in small pieces, will grow as well as the whole Roots.

CAROTS.

OF this Root there are several sorts, viz. the Red Carot, the Swelling Orange Carot, which is the forwardest, and the Yellow Ca­rot.

The Ground most agreeable for this Root is a light, warm and sandy Soyl, and withal rich in Heart. The usual way was to dig the Ground for them, which for small quantities for Gardens is the best; but of late Years the Farmer easeth himself of that great charge, by Ploughing it deep, which serveth as well; but it must be well har­rowed and laid fine, otherwise it will be trou­blesom to Hoe, which is the chief care and charge required about it, for it must be three times Hoed, which will cost 30 s. an Acre to be well done; but those that Sow but a little for their own use, their Gardiner or other Servants may do it, being no difficult thing to learn; the chief care being to set them apart, for if two or more grow together, they will be small and come to nothing, and the cutting the Tops of them with the small Hoe kills the Roots.

There are two Seasons for Sowing Carots, one is about February, for forward Carots, and those will be ripe about the beginning of July; and the other Season is in July and August for Winter Carots, and those will be ripe and fit to draw in October.

These Roots are of great use, not only for the Table, but also for Swine, Geese, Poultrey, and Rabets. The best way to keep them all the Winter, is to lay them in dry Sand; and if you would reserve any for Seed, let them be the fi­nest.

PARSNIPS.

THis Root delights in a deep, rich and Mel­low Ground, which must be well dug, at the least a full Spit deep, and laid loose, the bet­ter to take Root. The Season to Sow them is in the Spring, to wit about April; And great care must be taken in the Hoeing them, as is for the Carots.

The Swelling Parsnip is by some preferred be­fore the other. About Christmas is the time to draw them, and the Season holds all, or the greatest part of Lent. The fairest may be pre­served for Seed.

This Root is of that Nourishment, that it will Fat Hogs with as firm a Flesh as with Pease; and those that have Experienced it say, that the Flesh is sweeter, and more delicate. Carots will also Fat them, but their Fat is loose, washy, and [Page 221] waists in the Boyling. Parsnips are also very good, being cut into small pieces and boyled for fatting Poultrey.

TVRNIPS.

TVrnips are of several sorts, viz. the long, the round and the yellow, of which sorts the long are esteemed the best.

This Root is more usually Sown in the Field 10 than in a Garden, being generally a second Crop, with no more Husbandry than only giving the Ground, one stiring or Plowing after the Crop is taken off, and so Sowing the Seed, and Harrow­ing it well in. They must be twice Hoed to se­ver them, but that great exactness is not required as for Carots.

Besides the benefit of this Root for the Table, it is excellent good for Cows and Sheep, especial­ly in hard Frosty Weather; And this Crop doth 20 very much Mellow the Ground, and fit it for another Crop, being as good as a small Dunging; It is best to be Sown after a Crop of Pease, or Beans.

If you would raise good Seed whereby to have fair and large Roots, either of Carots, Par­snips, or Turnips, gather the highest Branches when the Seed is full ripe, which Sow in March, or April; and at drawing time choose the fairest Roots, cut off their Tops somwhat low, and set 30 them again, and let them stand for Seed the next Year; which Seed take from the highest Top Branches, and Sow them in Season, and they will answer your Expectation.

SKIRRETS.

THis is a very sweet Root; it is raised of the Slips, and planted in the Spring Season in Ranges about five or six Inches asunder, and at 40 Winter when you raise the Roots, you may lay the Tops in Earth until the Spring, for your fur­ther encrease. They delight in a very Fat and light Mould. If you would have the Roots of these Plants to be large, often tread down the Tops to hinder the Sap from runing up.

ASPARGVS.

THis is to be raised from the Seed in a rich 50 and fat Soil, and at two Years growth may be Transplanted into Beds; which must be rich, and well prepared with rotten Dung, about two Foot deep at the bottom; and also very good rotten Dung must be mixt with the Mould. Then set the Asparagus Plants at about two Foot distance, and three or four Rows in each Bed, which in time will extend themselves throughout all the Bed.

After three Years standing they will be fit to 60 cut, but if you cut them sooner, they will be small. But your Ground may not be lost to you all this time; for the first Year you may Sow Onions, and may expect a good Crop.

At the beginning of Winter when the Stalks are cut away, pare up the Alleys, and cover the Beds with Horse-Dung about three Inches thick, which will preserve them from the Cold pinching Frosts, which otherwise will anoy them; and about Mid March uncover the Beds, and let the Dung lye in the Alleys to rot for good Mould against the next Season, and cast over the said Beds rich Mould, about Two or Three In­ches thick, which will exceedingly nourish them and bring them forward and early.

Cut the Asparagus very low within the Earth and it will grow up the better; but be careful, of cutting those that are just peeping up, for that will hinder their growth.

If you take up the Roots of old decayed As­paragus about the begining of January, and Plant them in a Hot Bed, keeping it warm and shelter­ing it from the Frosts, you may have Asparagus a­bout Candle-mas.

MELLONS.

MEllons are very troublesom and costly to raise; about the Middle of February make your Hot-Beds in some enclosed place that is sheltred warm from the Wind by a Pail or Fence of Reeds, or Straw, which Hot-Bed must be made of good new Horse-Dung Five or Six Foot high and about Four Foot broad, and very hard trod or beat down; then sift some pure Mould of last years rotten Dung without any mixture of Earth, about Four or Five Inches thick, and put in the Seeds with your Fingers at Two or Three In­ches distance, and an Inch and an half deep; then cover them over with Mellon Glasses, the better to draw up the heat, and bring up the Mellons; and this way is better than the covering the Bed with Straw, or Mats, raised or supported up by Arched Sticks, which is the common way to those that cannot, or will not be at the charge of Glasses.

When the Plants begin to peep up, cover them thinly over with Fine Warm Mould; and when they are shot above Ground, cover up the Stalks close to the Leaves, and in the heat of the Day give them a little Airing, taking off the Glasses, but casting a little Straw over them for fear the Sun proves too hot for them, and this do about Ten a Clock to a Eleven, and open them again a­bout Two till Four; and as the Plants rise, raise up the Earth to the Roots to succour them, and when you find the Bed begin to decay, remove the Plants into another Hot-Bed, otherwise they will decay for want of Heat; but coming into a fresh Bed will mount up apace; If the Bed grows dry, Water them once in Twelve Hours with Water made Luke warm: When the Plants are grown pretty big remove them into another new Bed, and Plant them▪ about Four Inches asunder; Then Plant them where they shall stand all the Year: dig a large Trench about Four Foot deep, and Three Foot over, and place therein some Dung about Three Foot deep, that will heat them; then make a square Hole about Four Foot deep and half a Yard square, and fill it about half full with very rich Mould; Then take up the Mellon-Plants from your last Bed very carefully, and set Three Plants in one Hole Triangular in the warm Mould, so deep, that the Leaves may be level [Page 222] with the Top of the Earth; then set the Glasses upon them, and cover them very warm, and Water them with Dung-Water Blood-warm for Three or Four Days after the planting, and be sure to give them good attendance in the time of their ripening, for the excellency is to take them in their prime, and they will soon be over ripe: Lay the young Mellons upon ride Tiles to to keep them from the Ground, and to cause the reflextion of the Sun the better.10

CVCVMBERS.

CVcumbers are raised in Hot-Beds, and from thence transplanted as Mellons; but the more usual way is to make a Trench of a suffici­ent bigness for the quantity of Cucumbers you design to sow, and fill it with new Horse-Dung and make square Holes, as before directed for the Mellons, which fill with rich Mould, and set 20 the Seeds about Two Inches deep in it, and put about Twelve in a Hole dispersed up and down; when they come up cover them with Straw, Cabage­leaves, or Mats, to shelter them from the Wind and Weather, until they are pretty Big, and then they will be out of danger; but forget not to water them, especially in a dry Season. About the latter End of March, or beginning of April is a good time to set the Seeds; and if you would have them earlier you must make use of Hot-Beds 30 and Glasses.

Cucumbers are of Three Sorts, viz. long, short, and prickly Cucumbers.

POMPIONS.

THese Roots are set in good Mould after the manner of Cucumbers, and must be well watered at their first appearing: When you per­ceive a Pompion to be kerned, and Grown pretty 40 big, and that the Runner shoots forwards and pro­duceth another about a Yard beyond it, lay the Runner about half a Foot in the Ground and it will shoot out Roots and nourish the other Pompion, for that next the Root intercepts all the Sap from tie other, so that in Two or Three Days it will pin [...] away; and observing this Rule you may have Nine or Ten upon a Root, otherwise not a­bove Two or Three.

MEKINGS and GOVRDS are not much 50 unlike unto Pompions and require the same order­ing.

Of Onions, Leeks, Garlick, Shalots, with Sal­lating and Potherbs.

ONIONS are of several Sorts, viz. Strasburgh Onions, the Red Spanish, and the White Spanish, the French that comes from S [...] Omers, and the English Onion.

They delight in a fine, fat and warm Mould; they are sown in March, or beginning of April; 60 If they are not sown with an even Hand they will be in some places too thick, and in others too thin; then where they are too thick let them be drawn up and planted in the thin places: When they are grown to some reasonable bigness bend down the Blades, which will make the Heads the larger. They must be kept well weeded, otherwise they will not come to good perfect­ion.

In August they are usually ripe, then gather them up, and lay them in the Sun to dry on a Blanket; then make them up in Ropes and hang them up, or lay them on some boarded Floor for your use.

The Strasburgh is reckoned the best.

LEEKS.

LEeks are of the nature of Onions, and are so sown, but when they are grown big, if they were transplanted and set deep in the Earth they would have the more white stalk for use, but this is too great a trouble for any quanti­ty.

The fairest and best Leeks, as also Onions, are to be kept and planted for Seed, and by reason of weightyness of their Heads they are to be prop­ped up with Sticks; when the Seed is ripe, cut off the Heads, and lay them to dry, then rub out the Seed.

GARLICK and SHALOTS.

GArlick is set in rich Ground; one Head be­ing severed into Cloves will set a small Bed. Shalot is to be set in rich Ground, but this and Garlick may be raised from Seed, as the Onions, and so ordered

Seeds necessary for the Kitchin.

THere are divers Seeds necessary for the Kit­chin, the sowing and propagating of which, being so easy, I shall not trouble the Reader with a Discourse of each particular Part, only say that they are to be sown for the generality in the Spring, and the Ground must be of a rich and Mellow Mould, and well husbanded by diging and laying into Borders.

As near as you can, let not the Seed be above a year old; and to trye if it be good, put some thereof into a Saweer of fair Water set over a Chafindish of Coals, and if they be good they will sprout forth in a short time, else not. Also new Seed is of a brighter Colour than that which is old.

For sowing the Seeds being so small, the best way is to mix them with sine Ashes, and that the Ground may lie the better, let it be finely raked, and then sow the Seeds; and having good fine Mould, sift it through a Sieve on the Beds, about half an Inch thick, which is far better than to sow them, and so rake the Ground afterwards.

These Seeds I shall divide into four several Heads, viz. Sallad Seeds, Pot-herb Seeds, sweet-herb Seeds, and Phisical Seeds.

SALLAT SEEDS are Radishes, which are of Four sorts, viz. London, Sandwich, Black spanish, and White spanish Radish. LETTVCE, viz. the Curld, the Red, the Rose, the Savoy, the Roman, the Lombar, and the Cabage. SPINAGE the round and the prickly. The White, the Red and the Roman Beet, Sampier, Berry-bearing Orach, Italian Selleree, Foenochio Rocket Spanish [Page 223] Rocket. Rampion, Hartshorn, Taragon, French Sor­el, Candy Sorel, Cardoon, Indian Cresses, Garden Cersses, Broad leaved Cresses, and Curled Cresses, Chervil, sweet Chervit, Purslane, golden Purslane, Parsley, curld Parsley, Alisander, &c.

POT-HERB SEEDS, Endive, Succory, Borage, Bugloss, Burnet, Bludwort, Clary, Sorrel, Marygold, Pot Marjoram, Summer Savory, Colombine, Tansey, Nep, French Mallows, &c.

SWEET-HERBS SEEDS are Thyme, Hy­sop,10 Winter Savory, sweet Marjoram, sweet Basil, Rosemary, Lavender, Baum, Fennel, &c.

PHISICAL SEEDS are Carduus-bene­dictus, Scurvy-grass, Angelica, Lovage, Smallage, Dill, Caruway, Cumin, Anise, Coriander, Gromil, Henbane, Flea, Foenugreek, Rubarb, Burdeck, Ele­campane, Balsam, white Poppy, Cardemum, Gourd, Citrul, Wormseed, Wormwood, Rue, Oculus Christi, Line, Marsh-Mallows, &c.

Thus having given you a short Account of di­vers 20 sorts of Seeds; In the next place it will be convenient to give some directions for the water­ing them which is the chief preservative in a dry Season.

It is better to water a Plant, or Seeds seldom and throughly, than often and sparingly, for that is but a deceiving it, and causeth it to root not so deep as otherwise it would, and by consequence makes it the more obvious to the Weather.

If the Weather be never so dry when you Sow 30 your Seeds, do not Water them until they have been in the Ground some Days, and the Ground be a little setled about them.

Pond, or Rain-Water, is esteemed the best for the Watering Plants, or Seeds, and is preferred far before Spring, or River Water.

Many curious Plants and Seeds would suffer, were they not carefully Watered at the first Re­moval, or in the dry Seasons; therefore 'tis not to be neglected: Early in the Spring (whilst the 40 Weather is cold) be cautious to Water the Leaves of the young tender Plants, only wet the Earth about them: When the Plants, or Seeds, are more hardy, and the Nights yet cold, Water them in the Foren [...]on; but when the Nights are warm, or the Days very hot, then the Evenings are best.

Directions for drying Herbs, and preserving Seeds.50

GAther them in their Prime, pick them clean from the withered and rotten Leaves; then tye them up in small Bunches, and hang them on Lines in the Wind and Sun to dry, but where no Rain comes, for that will make them look black, and also take away their Scent: When they are sufficiently dryed, put them in brown Paper-Bags, and so hang them up in con­venient 60 dry places against the Walls to keep for your use; and if you lay them before the Winter comes in, the Sun for a few Hours will much refresh them.

Then for the preserving the Seeds, let them be gathered when they are through Ripe, and laid to dry in the Sun; then rub them out, and cleanse them from the Dust, and so preserve them for use.

Besides, the aforesaid Herbs raised from Seeds, there are divers raised from Sets, or Slips, and such are Mint, Sage, Hysop, &c.

Of Goosberries, Cu [...]rans, Rarsberries, and Strawberries.

GOOSBERRIES and CVRRANS are much of one nature, and the same Husbandry that is required to the one is to the other: They must be planted in good rich Ground, and of a deep and light Mould. You must keep the Ground in good heart, by Soyling it at least every third Year, and keep it dug, and well Hoed, to be free from Weeds, which are great Enemies to them: Also keep the Trees clear from Succors, or young Shoots, by cutting them off close to the Root; and suffer not a Bushy thick Head, for that will hinder the Suns influence to Ripen the Fruit, nor will they bear so well, nor the Fruit be so large as if thus trimmed and ordered.

If you plant either Goosberries, or Curran-Trees, for a full Crop, four or five foot square is enough, and be sure to plant them in even Ranges, which is better for the Digging, Hoing, Gathering, and all occasions.

There are several sorts of Goosberries, as the English, both White and Red; the Yellow and White Dutch Amber, which are the best and fairest Fruit.

CVRRANS are of three sorts, the Red, the White, and the Black, which as yet is not common.

RARSBERRIES are an excellent Fruit; They delight in a good stiff Ground, and will grow in the Shade, but then the Fruit is not so good and pleasing to the Pallate, being more waterish. They are best set in Beds; and if the Plants are set about a foot asunder they will soon be too thick, by reason of the great store of Shoots that spring up.

In the Winter let the Borders be Pared, and the Earth cast up on the Beds, with Dung over them, which will very much nourish the Plants, and cause them to bear the better, and keep the Beds clear from Weeds.

STRAWBERRIES are also of several sorts, viz. the great White Strawberry, the ordi­nary Red one that grows in the Woods, and the Virginia Strawberry of late years brought into England, being a large Berry, and of a delicate taste, far exceeding the English.

They delight to be set in new broken Ground, or at least where they have not grown before, and should be removed every third Year, other­wise they will decay and cease bearing, so that they must be removed into fresh Ground well prepared, and rich: But Wood-Strawberries are found to prosper best in Gardens. The Beds may be about four Foot broad, and not too thick set, for they will soon spread: Let them be kept clean Weeded, and in the Winter pa [...]e the Borders, and cast the Earth on the Beds, with [Page 224] some Dung, as before directed, for Rarsberries to nourish them.

Watering them, especially in the hot, dry Weather, doth cause a great Encrease, and makes the Berry the larger.

If you would have Strawberries in Autumn, cut away the first Blossoms that they put forth, to hinder their timely Bearing, and they will Blow anew, and Bear in Autumn.

Thus having treated of the Kitchin-Garden, 10 the next business shall be to speak of the Garden of Delight, for Flowers, Greens, &c.

CHAP. VI.
Of Flowers, and how to Raise, and 20 Order them.

GArdens for Delight are of two sorts, viz. producing Flowers from Stalks, and Flow­ers from Trees; under which Head all Greens are comprehended.

The most graceful Grounds for the Garden is a Level; and for a Soyl, neither a Sand nor a Clay, but a good deep light Black Mould, which 30 must be made rich with Soyl: But if the Ground is not upon a Flat, the best way is to divide it into parts with Descents, as the place will admit of, and for the laying it out into Walks, Beds, and the like; If your own Ingenuity will not perform the said Undertaking, 'tis convenient to have the assistance of one Expert therein, to the end your cost and labour may be effectual, and that you may not wish it were to do a­gain.40

These Gardens are not good to be too big, for then requiring so much Cost and Attendance to look after carefully, 'tis probable many things will be neglected; which if but small, would be exactly kept, and according to the Proverb, A little well done, is better than a great deal ill done. Also great care ought to be taken in the Walks, that they be of good Workmanship, have a good Foundation and Thickness, that the high Wind may not blow them down; and for 50 Height, about nine or ten foot is sufficient, and under is too low: And Brick is far better than Stone, which is too cold for Fruit to ripen against (to that perfection) as against a Brick-Wall. Pailing (provided the Boards are whole Deals, and laid over one another Featheredg-wise) is very good, and more kindly than a Stone-Wall.

Fruits proper to be planted against the Walls, are May-Cherries, Apricots, Peaches, Nectorins, 60 Pears, and Vines; all which require a South Sun, so that the North-side is best next to the East; the West is indifferent good, as having the Morning Sun; but most fit for Plumbs, as the South-side is, which is fit for nothing else.

These Trees may be planted at about ten foot distance, and between each may be set Curran-Trees, to fill up the vacant places until the Trees spread forth, and require the said place, and then they may be cut up; and in ordering the Branches along the Wall, lay them low within a foot of the Ground, for when the Boughs, or Branches are well dispersed, and that there is no vacant places, it is an handsom sight to look upon; and above all things be sure to make the Borders (where you plant the Trees) very rich, which will extreamly bring forward the Trees.

To fill up the Borders set Auricula's, Wall-flowers, Stock Gilly-flowers, double Violets, Hipa­ticaes, double Pinks, &c.

As for the laying out your Garden into Walks, Borders, and Grass-Plats, some few Directions shall suffice, every one having a Form to his own liking.

For Grass-Plats, let them be of Turf, and taken from the Barrenest and Hungryest Ground, provided the Grass is thick and short, for that which groweth Rank is not so good. Let the Ground be exactly made Level, then lay the Turf close together, beat it well with a heavy Beater, and be not slack in Watering it for some time, until it is setled to the Ground.

For GRAVELLING the WALKS, lay the Gravel thick, the Coursest at the Bottom, and the Fine at the Top, which should be Screned, and let the Middle be highest, with a gentle descent on either side. It is now the fashion to lay on the Top of the Walks Cockle-shells instead of Gravel, which is far better, and not very chargeable.

The Walks must be kept well Rolled, and the Grass-Plats well Mowed and Rolled, to keep them smooth and handsom.

Worms are great Eye-sores to Walks in casting up the Earth, for preventing which, it is good to strew amongst the Gravel good store of Bay-Salt.

It is now customary to set in the Borders that encompass the Grass-Plats Dwarf Fruit-Trees, as Pears, Apples, and Cherries, which are gene­rally of the best and choicest Fruits growing, and you may have two or three sorts upon one Stock. They may be planted about ten or twelve foot asunder, with an Apple, or Pear-Tree, betwixt a Cherry; and betwixt the said Trees may be planted Roses, Currans, Gooseberries, Cypress-Tree, Miszerions, and the like; and the rest of the Beds may be set with Tulips, Daffa­dillies, Lillies, Pionies, Martagons, and the like; and about the Edges of the Beds double Pinks; or else Box, which being always Green is plea­sant to behold; the only fault is, it eateth out the heart of the Ground, so that you must keep it always Soyling.

EVER-GREEN HEDGES are very Ornamental; the best are made with Pyracantha and Phillirea, as much of the one as the other, equally dispersed; and for lower in small Gar­dens, Celastrus and Alaternus. For the raising and setting of these Plants more anon. These Hedges must be kept orderly, cut Even on the Top and Sides, and not too Broad.

[Page]

FLORA

To the Rt Honble: Richard Lord Maitland Lord Iustice Clarke of the Kingdome of Scotland one of the Lords of his Ma most Honble: privy Councell in that Kingdome and eldest son to the Rt. Honourable Charles Earle of Lauderdale

This Plate is humbly Dedicated by Richard Blome

[Page] [Page 225] Your Garden cannot be compleat, if the Borders are not bounded in with Border-Boards, which should be laid in Oyl for lasting, and Coloured for Ornament, with handsom round Balls placed at equal distances on the said Border-Boards, which may be coloured Black, and the Boards White.

A Summer-House is requisite to be erected in some convenient place of the Garden, which may be made of Framed Timber-Work, covered 10 over at the Top; and for curiosity of Work­manship in the said House in Carving and Paint­ing, it is left to your discretion.

The Summer Season being generally dry, the Flowers require frequent Watering, so that there should be the conveniency of a Well, or Fountain, and if Pumped out of a Well, a Cistern is ne­cessary; for the Water should stand some time in the Sun before it is fit to be used on tender Plants and Flowers. 20

For the maintaining and keeping up your Garden, a Nursery must be in some convenient place adjoyning to your Garden, where not only Stocks for Fruit, but Flowers raised by Seeds, Slips, and the like: And here your Hot-Beds should be for the Raising of choice Annuals, to be transported into your Garden.

In this Nursery should be some convenient House raised against the Side of the Wall for the Housing your Greens, and tender Plants 30 that are in Pots, as Gilly-flowers, &c. which the cold Winter will kill; as also to keep your Garden Tools in that they may be ready at hand on occasion, as Hoes, Rakes, Spades, Shovels, Garden-sheers, Pruning-hooks, Grafting and Inoculating Knives, Trowels, Saws, Chissels, Mallets, Ham­mers, Nails, Garden Reel and Line, a Screen, a fine Wyer Riddle, Brooms, Watering Pots, Wheel-Barrows, and the like Tools.

In your Nursery there should always, be a 40 Stock of old Dung of several sorts, each laid by it self to be used as occasion requires; for if the Ground be Hot and Sandy, Cow-Dung mixt with Lime is best; and if cold and Clayey, then that of Horses, Pigeons, or Poultrey.

Now forasmuch as laying of Branches, plant­ing by Cuttings, Budding, and the Hot-Bed, are in great use: It will be necessary to speak a word or two of each.

Laying of JVLYFLOWERS is thus 50 done; chuse such Slips that are strongest, prune off the ends and sides of the Top Leaves, and under the middlemost joynt cut the Stalk half through, and slit it upwards to the next joynt; then make a Hole in the Earth, and gently bend it down thereunto with a small hooked Stick to keep it from rising; then turn up the Head of the Slip, that the slit may open, in which po­sture hold it with one Hand, and Earth it up with the other, pressing it down to keep the slit 60 upright, then water it.

There are some good Slips that grow so high from the Ground, that they can't be laid; in such case you must make use of small Pots, that have slits in one side made on purpose, and sold by Potters. These Pots are to be fitted with good Mould, and kept well watered.

The best Season for laying of Julyflowers is from Mid June to Mid July, and about the beginning of September they may be taken off with the Earth about them, and set in Beds or Pots fitted with good Earth. Place these Pots in the shade, sometimes gently watering them, but not too much; and to preserve them from great Rains, shelter them in Paint-Houses made of Boards for that purpose.

For the laying of Jasmines, Roses, Greens, and other Woody Plants after directed to be rai­sed by Layers, make choise of such a Branch or Launce, that may easily be bended to the Ground; the same Years Shoots are the best for Rooting; cut it half through on the underside at a Joynt, or Knot, if it have any, then slit the same upward two or three Inches long, and prick the Bark through with a blunt pointed Awl in divers places about the slit: Take off the Tops of all Laid Plants except Greens, then make a wide Hole to hook it down, and follow the Directions as for Julyflowers.

Such Plants that will not take Root, let the upper end of the slit be bound very hard with Wyer, or Packthread, which will stop the Sap, and cause it to grow; and put some Rich Fat Earth about the place where they are layed

The best time to lay Greens, or other Plants is about Mid August, that they may have ta­ken Root by the Spring, and the next Year will be fit to take off, as being well Rooted; and to cause them the better to Grow, water them often.

CVTTINGS are to be taken as soon as the Sap begins to rise: They must be cut sloop­ing from a Joynt or Knot at the lower end, and left about a Foot long: Make a deep Trench and lay them therein a little slooping, fill the Trench with good Mould, and press it hard down, and often watered.

As for Budding, or Innoculating of Roses, it is performed after the same manner as for Fruits, of which more hereafter.

HOT BEDS are used for raising up of forward Plants, &c. and how to make the Beds is already Treated of in the fifth Chapter, con­cerning Mellons.

If you remove any Rooted Plant of Flower or Herb, although it be in the midst of the Sum­mer, if you remove them in the Cool of the Evening, and well water them, taking all the Earth about the Root, without loosening it from them there is no danger.

Should I make a Discourse of each par­ticular Flower, and the great Variety of each sort, it were enough to make a Volum of it self. Mr. Rea, a great Florist, hath Published an elaborate piece of this kind, Entituled Flora, Ceres and Pomona, wherein he hath Treated of each particular Flower, as also of the Greens, as well those bearing Fruits and Flowers as otherwise. I shall therefore give a short Account of the Names thereof, and refer you to the Book it self.

Mr. Rea begins his Discourse of Flowers, with those that have either Scaly, Bulbous, Grumous, or Tuberous Roots, from whence the Leaves, Stalks [Page 226] and Flowers do annually Spring, most of them dying even to the Root soon after their Flow­ring. And first with the Lilies and Marta­gons.

Of LILIES.

THe Crown Imperial, the Double Crown Im­perial, the Yellow Crown Imperial, the Narrow Crown Imperial, with a reddish Flower.10 The Persian Lily, the red Lily, the fiery red bulbed Lily, the double red Lily, the yellow Lily, the white Lily, the white Lily of Constantinople, the double white Lily.

MARTAGONS.

THe Mountain Lily or Martagon, the Mar­tagon Imperial, the white Martagon, the white spotted Martagon, the spotted Martagon of 20 Canada, the Martagon of Constantinople, the red spotted Martagon of Constantinople, the Marta­gon of Hungary, the Virginian Martagon, the Martagon of Pompony, the yellow spotted Mar­tagon, and the yellow Martagon without Spots.

All these sorts of Lilies and Martagons flower in and about June, and are all, except those of Canada and Virginia, strong and hardy Plants and great Encreasers.30

FRITILLARIES.

THese are of two Species, the one with small Roots, sharp pointed green Leaves, and large Flowers; and the other with bigger Roots, round pointed whiter green Leaves, and different fashioned smaller Flowers, and of each kind there are several sorts, viz.

The Common Chequered Fritillary, the dou­ble Bush Fritillary, the white Fritillary, the yel­low 40 Fritillary, the darkred Fritillary, the great red Fritillary, the great yellow Fritillary, the spotted yellow Fritillary, the great yellow Ita­lian Fritillary, the small Italian yellowish green Fritillary, the exotick narrow leaved Fritillary, with a whitish green double Flower, the small yellow Fritillary of Portugal, the black Fritil­lary.

These do Flower about the end of March and beginning of April. The Roots lose their Fibres 50 as soon as the Stalks are dry, and may then or any time after before August be taken up, and kept dry for some time; but not to be kept longer out of the Ground than Mid August.

TVLIPS.

THere are innumerable many sorts of Tulips, 60 all which are (or may be) comprehended under three sorts, viz. the Early, the Middle, and the latter Flowring Tulips, of which in order.

The Early Flowring Tulips are the Winter Duke, General Duke, General Brancion, pretty Betty, Duches Brancion, Lac Varine, Violet Ratgans, Violet de Remow or Purpure Lisse, Palto van Leyden, Florisante, Religious, Blindenburgh, Nonsuch petits late, the Corn Heart, Admiral Crinki, General Molswick, Cleremont, Paragon-Cleremont, Admiral Encusen, Morillion Cramosine, the Noble Aurora, the Early perfect, Pirishot, Princess, Fair Ann, the Omen, the Marquess, Vice-Roy, Galatea, Maria, the Superintendent, Auraro van Bart, Paragon Greberi, Gilden Blome Brentel, Gilden Blome Seonie, Alcetus, Vnique of Delfe, Vgenia, Climene, Clitus, Venetian, Retrocede, Dorade, Witten Root Hodie, Bona­ventura, dos de Chamoy, Paragon Iserant, pur­ple and white Evers-Wind, Bran Moresco &c.

The Middle Flowring Tulips are, the Swish of Portugal, Munera, Semper Augustus, the Prince of Orang, General Essex, Pluto, Pass Endi­nard, Paragon oudinard van Bole, Agot Morine, Agot Robine, Agot Robine Paragon, or Robinet, the white Agot, Tudart, Jasper Tudart, Harvy, Admiral vander Pool, Morillion, Nacarat, Car­dinal Flambiant, Prince Cardinal, Morillion de Anvers, Orient Virgin, General Gowda, Envy, Triumphans, B [...]w Turnier, Bell la Bar, Bell Bre­ire, Bell Brune, the Cardinal, Vesta, Royal Ve­sta or Non pare, Mazarine, Sattine, Morillion de Argiers, the Pearl, Bien venu, Admiral Cataline, Susanna, the Pelican, Belline, Pass Belline, General Sweman, Camusetta, Paragon Franswise, Admiral of France, Benedictine, Para­gon Blackbam, Paragon de Gildon, Dautile de flure, Pass Rosie, Rosilliante, Holofernes, the Chimney-Sweeper, Turban, Admiral Heart, Zeablom, Cedo Nulli, Lauscot Bole, Altes Royal, Zweman, John Garet, or Chamolet, Paragon Lis­gen, the Parot, the Rich Parot, Agot Rampard, Agot Gekeire, Star de Mans, Marvelia de Qua­cle, the President, the Royal President, Nofte la perfeit, Pompeza, the Eagle, Eminentissime, the Royal Agot, Agot Oriental, Paragon-Flori­son, Morillion-Curtiis, Admiral de Mans, Jaco­bea rectified, Paragon de Costa, General of Hol­land, La Towers, Bell pallas of Paris, Pass bel Tew, Marbre Jesper, Agot poit vin, white pass Cittadel, Dorile, Carthage, Diana, Dis­pute Doria, General Doctor Bolesom van Bole, Otter, brown Purple Cataline, Pass He­ron, Violetta, the Flanders Widdow, Princess Royal, the White Widdow, Prince of Wales, Princess, Turgiana, Ariana, Rundelo, Brown Anvers, Bew Anvers, General Anvers, General Bole, Paragon Geron, Dorothy of Holland, Caro­lus, Volverte, Pass Zeablon of Paris, Brown Purple de Marris, Agot Hanmer, Agot St. Den­nis, Brabazon, Hispaniolet, Agot de Gorier, Arch Duke Imperial, Le Arch de Auckre, Amphi­trio, Armiante, Consiergi, Althea, Atlas, Para­gon Alette, Sigismond, Vnick la Croy, Jacobine, the Brown Purple of Marris, the Brown Purple Pa­ragon, the Brown Purple Blassack, the Brown Purple King, and the Brown Purple Prelate.

Other good Tulips, viz. Amarantine, Atlas Aurora Celeste, Bellincourt, Borimda, Brabazon Elserier, Brabazon Hugh van Hij, Cardinal Ma­zerine, Celestine, Dulcina, Dutchess of Venice, Eliza, Faustina, Finetta, Flenricourt, General Picot, Her­cules, [Page 227] Jasper Angloice, Jacobine, Imperial, la Con­stante, la valles Mahomet, Melinda, Mirandola, Morillion Chirar, Monster Cytroon Parat, Morine, Oriental, Non plus bella, Paragon Aletta, Paragon, Hellena, Paragon Bush, Paragon Quacle, Paragon Gowda Quacle, Richmont, St. Nicaise, Sigsmont, Speciosa, and Turney Dolphin.

Admiral de Groot, Admiral van Zierchee, Admi­ral Lifebrews, Admiral Sierchee, Beline, Camillus, Dorillies, Daphne, Dorothea Paragonee, Duke of 10 Calabria, Don Frederick, Emillia, Floridort, Galli­ard, General Hanniball, General Pump, Harders, Jacasta, Keremi, Luxemburg Paragonee, Metander, Nonsuch, Orinda, Paragon Vesta, Paragon Orant, Paragon Sheldenburg, Paragon past Marmillion, Queen Elizabeth, Queen of France, Rechelu, Shoon Hellena, Timon, Victoria, Venus, Wig­gons, Paragonee, Xenophon, Youngster, Zeablon, King, Zelot, and Zacaria.

Other sorts Tremontane, Proteus, Amidore,20 Brown Georg, Agot Pigot, Aurora, Clytus, Agot Bizar, Rich Portugal, Memorables, Proserpine, the Curle, Eremanthe, Cleomedon, la Billy, Cle­lia, Zelinda, Phenix, Charmante, la Fine, A­mazon, Swissisis, and Philadelphia.

The latter Flouring Tulips, viz. Pato Madam, the yellow Crown, Prince de la More, the Zero­tine Zeoblom, Gresound, Star of Venus, Paragon Mullen, Agot Romane, Marbre Harlus, Tenebris, &c. 30

The Roots of all Tulips lose their Fibres eve­ry Year, and are to be taken up so soon as the Stalks are dry, which is about Midsummer, and must be kept dry on the board of some Room until setting time, vvhich is about the beginning of October.

The Roots in light Ground may be taken up with the Hand, but in stiff you must use a Trowel; and those that are curious, lay every sort by it self on Papers, and write the Names thereon; 40 and you must take away the dead Fibres, and the loose outward Skins, as also the Off-Sets or Roots to set again.

The best Tulips should be set by themselves in good prepared Beds, and the ordinary ones may be disposed of in Borders; but so disperse them that there may be a handsom mixture of Co­lours.

After the Flower is shead break off the Head, or Seed-Pod from the Stalk, unless of such that 50 you intend to keep for Seed, which will cause them to dry down the sooner, as also to fortifie the Roots.

Those that are designed for Seed, are to be made choise of when in the prime of Flower; choose the strongest Stalks, such as have the most benefit of the Sun, and such as have the Bottoms, and Tamis, either blew or purple.

When the Seed is ripe the Pods will open, and the Stalks will be dry; then gather them off, but 60 rub not the Seed out until about the end of Sep­tember; then sow the Seed in Beds of fine Mould; In April the Seeds will come up high enough to Weed, and about Midsummer (two years after the sowing) they may be taken up, the Roots clean­sed, and set in Rows at a wider distance; and so every year until they come to bear Flowers, still altering the Ground with rich, and fresh Earth; Those that prove excellent, keep, and the com­mon ones cast away; but although they come up at first of one Colour, if they be Brimstone, Dove, Orange, Hair, Isabella, Gredeline, Shamway, or any light and strange Colour, cast them not away, for in a Year or two many such have changed in­to good marked Flowers.

NARCISSVS or DAFFODILLS.

THere are divers sorts of Daffodills, as well single as double, some with broad, and some with narrow green Leaves; some bearing one, and others many Flowers on a Stalk. And a­mongst the great variety, these sorts following are of chief esteem amongst Florists.

Narcissus Non parel, or the Incomparable Daf­fodil; the Incomparable Daffodil with a double Flower or Cup; the great double French Daffodil; the lesser double French Daffodil; the double white Daffodil of Virginia; the great Daffodil of Africa; the great Brimstone coloured Daffodil; the French Daffodil with the yellow Cup; the white Daffodil, which many flowers; the yellow Daffodil of Ciprus with many flowers; the great African Daffodil; the white Junquilia, or Rush Daffodil, the white turning Junquilia, the yellow turning Junquilia; the yellow turning Junquilia, with a white Cup; the white turning Junquilia with a yellow Cup; the Junquilia with a great Cap; the double Junquilia; the gr [...]at Sea Daffodil; the Indian broad Leaved Daffodil; the Indian broad Leaved Autemn Daffodil; the Indian Au­tumn Daffodil; the broad Leaved Daffodil with Scarlet Flowers, called Jacobea; the broad Leaved Virginian Daffodil, with a Purple Flower; the great yellow Spanish Bastard Daffodil; Tuggies great double Bastard Daffodil; the lesser double Bastard Daffodil, or Wilmores double Daffodil; Parkinsons double Daffodil; the double English Bastard Daffodil; the white Bastard Junquilia; the Gol­den double narrow Leaved Daffodil; the great yellow Bastard Junquilia.

The greatest part of these Daffodilis are har­dy, great encreasers, except it be those that bear many Flowers on a Stalk, as also the double white of Virginia, the double yellow of Cyprus, and those of Canstantinople.

Not much unlike unto the Daffodills as to nature, are the greater early Bulbous Violet, the lesser early Bulbous Violet, and the great late Flowering Bulbous Violet.

These as well as the Daffodil [...] are early Flow­ers, and do also much encrease by the Root, and very apt to off-sets, they lose their Fibres, and are taken up out of the Ground, and ordered like un­to Tulips.

The HYACINTD, or IACINTH.

THe sorts of most esteem of this Flower, are either the great Indian tuberous Rooted Hyacinth, the great yellow Musk Grape Flower, or yellow Muscari, the Ashcoloured Muscari, the red Muscari, the white Muscari, the fair haired Jacinth, the fair curled haired Jacinth, the great Starry Ja­cinth [Page 228] of Peru, the great white Starry Jacinth of Peru, the great blush Starry Jacinth of Peru, the Sky-coloured Grape-flower, the white Grape-flower, the blush Grape-flower, the branched Grape-flower, the great Oriental Jacinth, the Celestial Hyacinth, the early white Oriental Jacinth, the fair double blew Oriental Jacinth, the common blew Starry Jacinth, the early Starry Jacinth.

All these lose their Fibres, and may be re­moved in June and July; they are hardy, and 10 require no great Attendance; most of them bear Seeds, and are sowed as Tulip Seeds.

ORNITHOGVLVM.

THe Star of Bethlehem, the greatest white Star of Bethlehem, the Star flower of A­rabia, the Star flower of Naples, the yellow Star of Bethlehem, the Star-flower of Aethiopia, the great white spiked Star of Bethlehem; 02

These aforesaid Flowers lose their Fibres, and the Roots may be taken up so soon as the Stalks are dry, and may be kept out of the Ground un­til September.

MOLY.

THe great Moly of Homer, the Indian Moly, the Hungarian Moly, Serpents Moly, the yellow Moly, the Spanish purple Moly, the Spa­nish Silver Cupped Moly, Dioscorides his Moly, the 30 sweet Moly of Montpelier, and Homers Moly,

These lose their Fibres, and are to be taken up after the Stalks are dry; they are hardy, and will thrive in any Soyl.

The ASPHODIL.

THis bears a Star-like-flower; the chief sorts are the great white branched Asphodil, the white unbraced Asphodil, the blush coloured 40 Asphodil, the great white striped Asphodil, the little white hollow Asphodil, the small yellow Asphodil, the yellow Lily Asphodil the Lily Asp­hodil, with a white Flower, and the Lily Asphodil with a blush Flower.

The SPIDER-WORT.

OF this Flower, the best sorts are the Savoy Spider-wort, the great Italian white Spider-wort, 50 the common unbraced Spider-wort, and the Virginian Spider-wort.

The Lily Asphodils flower about the end of May, and the Spider-worts about the beginning of June. They are both hardy, and will thrive in any Soyl; the best time to take them up and transplant them is in August.

PEONY.

THis Flower is Male and Female, and of 60 several sorts both single and double; the chief are the double Red Peony, the double Pur­ple, the double Carnation, the double Blush, or White, and the double Strip'd Peony.

They generally flower in May, are very hardy and fit for any Soyl. They are a very spreading and ornamental Flower, and usually set at the Corners of Borders.

The MEADOW SAFFRON.

THe principal sorts of this Flower are the Party-coloured Meadow Saffron, the varie­gated Meadow Saffron, the dark Purple striped Meadow Saffron, the Checkered Meadow Saffron of Naples, the Checkered Meadow Saffron of Chio, the double Meadow Saffron, the double variegated Meadow Saffron, and the greatest dou­ble Meadow Saffron.

When the Stalks of these are dry; take them up, and about the beginning of September they may be Set again; they will suddenly put forth Fibres, and soon after will flower; they are hardy, and will thrive in any Soyl.

CROCVSES.

THis Flower is of divers sorts, some flowering in the Spring, and others in Autumn, and of this the true Saffron is a kind; the other chief sorts are the great white Crocus, the white Crocus of Masia, the pale feathered Crocus, the Imperial Crocus, the Royal Crocus, the smaller purple Crocus, the greater purple Crocus, the blew Neo­politan Crocus, the purple feathered Crocus, the purple striped Crocus, the great purple striped Crocus, the greater purple flamed Crocus, the yel­low Crocus, the yellow striped Crocus, the Cloth of Gold Crocus, the Silver-coloured Autumn Cro­cus, the purple Mountain Crocus, and the Autumn Mountain Crocus.

All these sorts of Crocusses both of the Spring and Autumn lose their Fibres, with their Leaves, and may be then taken up and kept dry; those of Autumn until August, and those of the Spring until October; they are hardy, and will thrive in any Soyl.

The IRIS, or FLOWER DE LIS.

THere are great varieties of this Flower, viz. the Persian Iris, or Flower de Lis, the English blew bulbous Iris, the great bulbous Iris with a rich blew Flower, the blew striped Iris, the great purple variable bulbous Iris, the great Ash-coloured striped bulbous Iris, the great varia­ble coloured bulbous Iris, the great pale Red, or Peach-coloured bulbous Iris, the great white bul­bous Iris, the great white striped Iris, the great white bulbous Iris striped with purple, and the great yellow bulbous Iris, or Flower de Lis.

The lesser bulbous Flower de Lis, or Iris, are also of several sorts, viz.

The Spanish narrow Leaved Iris, the narrow Leaved bulbous Iris with a spotted Stalk.

Other sorts of Flawer de Lis in France; viz. the Agat Iris, the African Iris, Aleppo Iris, Am­bois Iris, Arabian Iris, the Iris of Avergne, Iris du Blois, Iris de Bologne, Iris of Britany, Iris of Brie, Chamber Iris, Iris of Candy, Iris of Castile, Iris of Damascus, Iris of Egypt, Iris of Flo­rence, Iris of Florida, Iris of Frontiers, Iris of Gascogny, Grand Signiors Iris, Iris of Greece▪ Iris [Page 229] of Guiney, Indian Iris, Iris of Judea, Iris of the Levant, Iris of the Lombards, Iris of Lorrain, Iris of Lybia, Iris of Macedon, Iris of Maldives, Iris of Melinda, Iris of Me [...]ico, Iris of Milan, Iris of the Moluccoes, Iris of Parma, Iris of Picardy, Iris of Poets, Iris of Poictou, Iris of Portugal, Iris of Pay, Rochetain Iris, Iris Royal, Iris of Savoy, Iris of Sicily, Iris of Siena, Swiss Iris, Iris of Syria, Iris of Tartary, Iris of Turkey, Iris of the Valleys, Iris of Valois, Iris 10 of Vandois, and the Venetian Iris.

The Seeds of all these are sowed and ordered as Tulips.

Other sorts of Flower de Lis.

THe Tuberous or Flag-leaved Flower de Lis, the great and lesser Chalidonian Iris, the great Flower de Lis of Dalmatia, the blew Flower de Lis of Asia, the twice flowering Portugal 20 Flower de Lis, the variable Purple Iris of Came­ranius, the blew Party-coloured Iris, the white variable Flower de Lis, the yellow Flower de Lis of Tripoli, the great blew narrow-Leaved Iris, the narrow-Leaved variable Iris of Clusius, the greater double narrow-Leaved Iris, the great white Dwarf Iris, and the Blush-coloured Dwarf Flower de Lis, or Iris.

All these Flowers are hardy, and will grow in any Soyl.30

CORN-FLAG.

THe chief sorts of this Flower are the Corn-Flag of Constantinople, the Corn-Flag with a bright red Flower, and the Corn-Flag with bright Flowers.

These Flower about July, when their Stalks are dry they lose their Fibres, and may be taken up, and ordered as Iris. 40

The BEE-FLOWER.

THe Bee-Flower, Gnats, Satyrion, Fly-Orchis, Dogs-Tooth Violet, Dogs-Tooth with a white Flower, Dogs-Tooth with a pale Purple-flower, Dogs-Tooth with a Red-flower, and Dogs-Tooth with a Yellow-flower.50

The SOW-BREAD.

THese are also of several sorts, viz. the pur­pled Cyclamen of the Spring, the white Candy Cyclamen of the Spring, the double white Spring Cyclamen of Antioch, the pale Purple Cyclamen of the Spring, the Summer Cyclamen, the Roman Cyclamen, the Ivy-leaved Cyclamen, the Narrow-leaved Cyclamen, and the Double-leaved 60 Cyclamen of Antioch.

The Roots of these Flowers do not lose their Fibres, and therefore are seldom to be removed; but if transplanted, it is in June, of July.

ANEMONIES, or the WILD FLOWER.

THere are great variety of these Flowers, but may be reduced under these two Heads, viz. the Anemone with broad Leaves, and the Anemone with narrow Leaves; and both sorts bring forth divers Slips of curious Flowers, viz.

The common great double variable Broad-leaved Anemone, the common Broad-leaved scar­let Anemone, the Broad-leaved Anemone with a double scarlet flower, the Broad-leaved double scarlet variegated Anemone, the double Broad-leaved red Anemone, the Broad-leaved double purple Anemone, the double Broad-leaved purple variegated Anemone, the Broad-leaved Anemonies with single flowers, the common double Narrow-leaved red Anemone, the double Narrow-leaved variable Anemone, the double Narrow-leaved scarlet Anemone, the double scarlet variegated Narrow-leaved Anemone, the double Narrow-leaved Anemone with a Scarlet Thrum, the double Narrow-leaved Anemone, called Nacara; the the double Brimstone coloured Narrow-leaved Anemone, the Narrow-leaved double green Ane­mone, the greater white Narrow-leaved double Anemone, the Narrow-leaved blush Anemone, cal­led Colombina; the double Narrow-leaved Rose-coloured Anemone, the Narrow-leaved double spotted blush Anemone, the Narrow-leaved dou­ble purple Anemone, the Narrow-leaved double Lavender-coloured Anemone, the Narrow-leaved Anemone with the Purple Thrum, the Narrow-leaved double Anemone with the dark Purple Thrum, called Amarant; the double Narrow-leaved variegated Amarant Anemone, the double Narrow-leaved Anemone of five Colours, and the Noble double Anemone.

Besides these Anemonies already mentioned, which have been long in England, there are abundance of other new sorts raised of Seeds in France and Flanders, all bearing five double Flowers differing from each other both in colour and fashion, the Names of which are taken notice of in Mr. Rea's Book of Flowers, fol. 123.

These Anemonies (both double and single) bring forth their Flowers in March, April, and May, which for the generality are very beau­tiful; and for the ordering them great care must be taken, as to the Soyl of the Ground, the Season, and manner of planting and taking them up, which Mr. Rea hath largely treated of.

RANVNCVLVS, or CROWFOOT.

THis Flower is of divers sorts, those of most esteem are the double white Ranunculus of Candia, the Cloth of Silver Crowfoot of Candia, the double yellow Crowfoot of Asia, and the double red Crowfoot of Asia.

There are divers other sorts of Ranunculus's, or Crowfoot of Asia, with fine double Flowers; viz. Bozvel or Plumash, Pianisco, Sang de [...]e [...]f, the Monster or Giant Ranunculus, the great Mon­ster [Page 230] of Rome, Puvoin of Rome, Marvelia, Spheri­cus, Fericus Trashe, Surifix, Turks Turvan, Mar­vellen de Paris.

Ranunculus of Asia with single Flowers are of divers sorts and colours, which with Direction for the ordering them are set down by Mr. Rea, Pag. 131.

WOLF-BANE.10

THis is also of divers kinds, the chief are the Winter Wolf-Bane, the pale Winter Wolf-Bane, &c.

These bring forth their Flowers with green Leaves in January, which is the chief Rarity in them.

HIPATICA, or LIVER-WORT.

THis is of two sorts, the one bearing single,20 the other double Flowers, which are of most esteem, the chief of which are the double purple Hipatica, the double Blew, the double White, and the double Red.

These Flowers about Mid March are to be ordered as Auricula's.

HELLEBORVS, or HELLEBOR.

THis is of two sorts, viz. Black and White; 30 the true black Hellebor, called the Christmas-Rose, the white Hellebor, with a Dark-red Flower, our Ladies-Slipper, the small white Hellebor, and the small purplish Hellebor.

GENTIAN.

THe Gentian is of several sorts, the chief are the Great Gentian with a yellow Flower, and the Gentian of the Spring.40

BELL-FLOWERS.

THese are also of several sorts, and both double and single, the chief are the Peach-Leaved Bell flower, the Steeple Bell-flower, the great Canterbury Bell, the double Canterbury Bell, Giants Throat-Wort, and the Cardinals Flower.

All these Flowers are easily encreased, and thrive very well in most Soyls, provided they stand not 50 too hot in the Sun; but the Cardinals Flower is more tender, and requires good care.

JVCCA INDICA, with other Indian Plants.

THe Indian Jucca, the Virginian Silk, the In­ [...]an flowering Reed, and the Indian Fig.

AVRICVLA's.60

THis Flower is of several sorts and colours, as Purple, Red or Scarlet, Yellow or Buff, and White: Most bear the Names of those that raised them, which are taken notice of by Mr. Rea, fol▪ 142. together with Directions for the raising and ordering them.

PRIMROSES, and COWSLIPS.

THese Flowers are of divers other sorts, than those common to us in England. Mr. Rea takes notice of these sorts, viz. the commou double Garden Primrose, the Couslip Hose in Hose, the double green Couslip, the double green Prim­rose, the Jack-an-Apes on Horseback, the Couslip with a Jagged Hose, the Red Primrose, the double Red Primrose, the Red Couslip, or Oxlip, the Orange coloured Couslip, and the Red Couslip in Hose.

CHAMPIONS.

THese are likewise of several sorts, viz. the double Red Rose Champion, the double White Rose Champion, the single Nonsuch, the Flower of Bristol, and the rich Scarlet Nonsuch.

WALL-FLOWERS.

THe principal sorts of this Flower are the great single Wall-flower, the double Wall-flower, the single White, and the double White; the double Red, and the pale Yellow Wall-flower.

STOCK-GILLIFLOWERS.

THis Plant is of several sorts and Colours, and both single and double, viz. the dou­ble stripd Stock-Julliflower, the yellow Stock, the blush Stock, and the whiter Stock-Julli­flower.

They are raised from Seed, and Slips; if from Slips, make choise of such Branches that bear no Flowers, which cut off some distance from the Stock; then slit down the Bark at the End of the Slip, about half and Inch in three or four places, which peel as far as it is slit, and turn up; then cut off the naked Woody part close to the Rind that is turned up; then make a pretty wide Hole in the Earth to set it in about three Fingers deep with the Bark spread open round about the end thereof; which done, cover it with good Earth, keep it in the shade, and water it for some time, to cause it to draw Root.

Plants that bear double White-flowers.

DOuble Pellitory, double Feather-few, double Camomil, double Dog-fennel, double Lady-Smocks, and double Daffies.

GILLI-FLOWERS.

THis Flower for its beautifulness and fragrant smell may deservedly have the prehemi­nence of all others. There are an innumer­able many sorts both double and single, a­mongst which these following are taken notice of by Mr. Rea, which had their original from Holland, Flanders, and the Netherlands; viz. Achilles, Acteon, Admiral of England, Admiral Young, Admiral Rowse, Admiral Lifgins, Admiral of Spain, Admiral of Arragon, Ad [...]nis, Agot, [Page 231] Bertine, Ajax, Abertine, Alcetus, Abiance, Impe­rial, Alexander the Great, Alexander of Holland, Albertine, Amazone, Andronicus, Angelion, Approaching Sun, Apollo, Apelles, Argus, Astrea, Attalanta, Augustus Caesar, Augustina, Aurora, Aure-stella; Barnadine, Barkshire, Beauty of Eng­land, Baron of France, Bel Triumphant, Bell-Montwas, Belvidere, Bel Curtisan, Bel Angloise, Bel Believer, Bel in Younton, Bel Infanta, Bel Fra [...]sway, Bel Rose, Bel Gentoice, Bel Magdalen,10 Bel Holandres, Bel Antus, Bel Brunetta, Bel Blome, Bel Joy, Bel Rosaline, Bellarmine, Beloved, Bethlem, Beu Buisson, Beu de Lile, Beu de Den­nis, Beu Deeper, Belle Olinda, Beu Monelle, Beu de Corn, Beu de Harlem, Beersheba, Boor Van Lakerbe [...]ck, Bele de Lanoy, Belle Princess, Belle de Bruxels, Blazing Star, Black Imperial, Blanch de Bruxels, Blew Christal, Bohemia Crown, Bona­ventura, Bonum M [...]gnum, Brown purple, Brabason, Brewers Paragon, Brown Favorite, Brown Apelles,20 Bride of Holland, Brun de Brune, Burstol, Cardi­nal, Carthusa, Charles the Great, Charles the Fifth, Charles the First, Charles the Second, Christal, Chancellor, Cleopatra, Colusa, Count Mansfield, Count Lodowick, Count Florus, Count of China, Count Henrick, Countess of Flanders, Covenant of England, Court of Castile, Coridon, Crown of Eng­land, Cursella, Cupidon Royal, Cydonia, Darius, Daris, Diana, Don Alphonso, Don Doria, Don John, Dolphin, Dore, Dorothy of Holland, Dorillisant,30 Duke of Anjou, Duke of Bucks, Duke of Burgun­dy, Duke of Brunswick, Duke of Cambridge, Duke of Freesland, Duke of Florence, Duke of Lor­rain, Duke Phillip, Duke Victor, Dutch Royal Dunkirk, Dutchess of Brabant, Dutchess of Cleave­land, Dutchess of Monmouth, Dutchess of York. Eagle Royal, Eaglet, Emperour Constantius, Dal­fast, Empire of Russia, Emperour, Emperors Court, Emperour Rodolphus, Emperatoria, Emillai, Fair Dutchess, Fair Flora, Fair Frances, Fair Hanna,40 Fair Hellena, Fair shepherdest, Favorite, Fields­by, Florida Floradine, french Marble, Galatea, General of Austria, General de Dorne, General Gouda, General of Holland, General of the In­dies, General Lambert, General Monk, General Palmer, General de Pike, General Rowse, Gene­ral Tuest, General Wigons, German Empire, Giants Head, Giganti [...]k, Glistering Star, Golden Crown, Golden Piece, Grand Duke Royal, Grave Earnest, Gray Florist, Gray Hulo, Grand Britain, Grand 50 Constantine, Grand Caesar, Grave Florus, Grave William, Grave Vandike, Great Boor, Great Cap­tain, Great James, Great Monarch, Great Prophet, Great Seneca, Great Tamberlain, Great Turk, Gro­tius, Halsion, Harison, Heart of Oak, Hecuba, House of Peers, House of Commons, Host of Bohemia, Honora, Hugonot, Imperial of Hol­land, Incarnadine-Corinthi, Incarnadine de Bezond▪ Incarnadine de Blan, Joyesse, Issabella la bella, Ju­piter, Juno, Kereme, Kill-all, King of Assyria,60 King of Bohemia, King David, King of England, King of Aethiopia, King of France, King of Naples, King of Poland, King of Portugal, King Rehobo­ham, King of the Romans, King Solomon, King of Spain, Kings Court, La Croy, La Morisco, Land of Promise, Lackerbet, La Joyesse, La Perle de Den­nis, La Placidia, La Super Bona, Last Hope, La­tisson Dore, Leviam, Le [...]nt de Scemes, Leo, Linne Frecal, Lord of the Camp, Loofte, Lorea, Loy­alty, Lord of Gaunt, Lord Frances, Lord Pleasure-Boat, Low Haule, Lusty-gallant, Master de Camp, Mamada, Marvel de Mundi, Martin Grim, Mar­ble-stone, Marble-Rose, Mearmaid, Minerva, Mi­rabilia, Morillion-Nonparel, Monstrum of England, Monstrum of Holland, Morillion-Triumphant, Morning-star, New St. George, New Bonaventura, New Hogonet, New Appollo, New Boore, New Cook, Covenant, Nesarial, Nimph Royal, Non-parelia, Non-such, Olimpia, old Vestal, Omega, Oriental, Ovid, Oxenar Oyleman, Pass Monarch, Pass Imperial, Pass Tout, Painted-Lady, Pantelece, New Para­gon Aleto, Paragon Rike, Philomel, Phillis, Pira­mid, Pico [...]omine, Polidore, Prince of Tire, Prince Henry, Prince Rupert, Prince Thomas, Prince of Wales, Prince of Orange, Princes Court, Princess of Savoy, Purple Paragon, Purple Imperial, Purple Royal, Queen Elizabeth, Queen Katherine, Queen of France, Queen of Sweden, Queen of Portugal, Queen of Persia, Queen Hester, Queen Hellena, Queen Cleopatra Queen, Biddia, Ravisant, Regent, Reutineere, Remus, Romulus, Rosilliante, Rosamond, Rose of Jerico, Royal Match, Royal Oak, Royal Je­remy, Royal Exchange, Roxalana, St. John, St. Jo­seph, St. Michael, St. George, Salamander, Salis­bury, Soliman, Sommer Fair, State House of Am­sterdam, Super Bonerges, Susanna, Super Eminent, Tapisere, Thodesier, the Jewel, the Cook, Thomu­lin, Tiberius Caesar, Triumphans, Tribune, Triumph of Sapin, Tricolor, Troupes, Validdi, Van Velson, Vetonica, Vestina, Virgin of England, Virgin of Middlesex, Virgin of Orleance, Virgin of Lile, Virgin of Cullen, Vice Admiral, Vice Roy, Victo­ria, Vlysses, Vnick de Lovel, Vtrick Duny, Vter­pendragon, Warwick Hero, white Diana, white Nobless, white Hugonet, white Lady, Witties Rich Scarlet.

By this Catalogue the great Variety of Dutch Julyflowers doth appear, which by them are Yearly raised from Seeds, but it will not be so with us in England, as Mr. Rea noteth, for they will soon degenerate, and become single, nor will they be so large, thick and double, neither of such well intermixed, striped, and flaked Colours; And all the best Dutch Flowers may be comprehended under these three Heads, viz. Red and White, Purple and White, and Scarlet and White.

And amongst the great Variety of Flowers, these following are now in most esteem.

Red and White JVLYFLOWERS.

AChilles, Ajax, Alcetus, Approaching Sun, Argus, Barkshire, Bel Infanto, Bel Joy, Bel-Fransway, Bella de Bruxels, Bella Brunetta, Bo­hemia, Crown, Coridon, Count of Lodowick, Cy­donia, Duke of Lorrain, Duke of Bucks, Duke of Anjou, Duke of Florence, General of Hol­land, Great Turk, Grand Duke Royal, King Charles the Second, La Super Bona, Low Ha [...]le, Marble Stone, Monstrum of England, Monstrum of Holland, Polidore, Prince Henrick, Queen Katherine, Queen Hellena, Super Eminent, Vir­gin of England, Virgin of Cullen, Virgin of Middlesex.

Purple and White JVLYFLOWERS.

ADmiral of Spain, Aliance Imperial, Andro­nicuus Beloved, Brown Purple, Cleopatra, Court of China, Crown of England, Darius, Dolphin, Duke of Burgundy, Fair Hellena, General Wi­gons, Grave William, Great James, King of Spain, King of Assiria, King of Naples, La Pla­cidia, New Appollo, New Hugomot, New St George,10 Oylman, Pass tout, Prince of Tyre, Purple Im­perial, Purple Paragon, Queen of France, Queen Elizabeth, Queen of Portugal, Queen Biddia, Salisbury, Tapisere, Vlysses, Warwicks Hero.

Scarlet and White JVLYFLOWERS.

ALbertine, Attalanta, Aurora, Baron of France, Bel Gentoice, Beauty of England, Blazing Star, Brewers-Paragon, Pride of Hol­land,20 Don Doria, Duke of Cambridge, Dutch­ess of Cleaveland, Dutchess of Brabant, Empe­ror Constantius, Fair Flora, Golden Crown, Golden Piece, Isabella, Labella, Juno, King of France, King of Poland, Land of Promise, Lord of Gaunt, Mirabilia, New Cook, New Paragon, Aletta, Pa­ragon Rike, Remus, Romu-lus, Rosamond, Royal Ex­change, Somerfair, Tiberius Caesar.

These Julyflowers are in their pride and glory 30 in July, and so continue till the middle of Au­gust.

For the Raising and Ordering these choise Flow­ers, take these following Directions. Besure to make choise of a good S [...]l, neither too stiff, nor too light; and withal that it is very rich by mixing good store of old rotten Dung amongst the Earth, This Earth put into your Pots designed for your Flowers, and therein set the Layers, either as you take them off in September, or else in March 40 being the Spring time; but before you Plant them, cut away with a pair of Scissers from the Layers all the Dead Leaves, and the Tops that are too long; and when you take them up to set into the Pots, let the Earth be about the Roots, and give them convenient Watering, but not too much whereby to rot the Roots. Let the Pots be so placed to have the Morning Sun only, for that of the Afternoon doth more hurt than good; until mid April water in the Morning, and after 50 when the Sun grows hot, in the Evening; and the Pots with Flowers so soon as the Sun is gone off them.

The Fat and Richness of the Earth in Pots, is sooner waisted than in Beds, so that every Year there should be a new supply of fresh and good, by taking away as much of the old Earth, as you can without hurting the Roots, and putting in more i [...] the room; and also take away those Roots that are killed by the Cold.60

When the Flowers begin to Spindle, nip off such that are smallest, leaving one or two of the big­gest at each Root to bear Flowers, by which means the Flowers will be fairer.

From mid June to mid July is the best Season for laying Julyflowers, and if well watered, they will take Root in about six or eight Weeks, and be fit to remove if occasion requires; but the best Season to remove them is in March.

When the Flowers are Spinled, tye them to Sticks, and let all the Superfluous Buds be nipt off to make the Flower the fairer. When the Flowers begin to appear, open the Tops of the Pods a little, to give the Flower liberty to come forth. Those Pods that break through the larg­ness of the Flower, may be neatly bound about with a Thread, or Wyre.

Your great care to preserve these tender Plants is in Winter, from Rains, Snows, pinching Frosts, and cold North and East Winds; therefore be provided with a Winter House, to set them in, as be­fore advised; and in February and March when the Days are Fair and Warm, set them abroad a little to Ayr; and now and then a gentle shower of Rain to fall upon them, would much refresh them; but be sure to take them in at Nights; and in April you may set them abroad where they are to stand, filling up the Pots that want Earth, and cutting away the dead Leaves.

But those that have not the conveniency of a House, may place the Pots close to a South, or West Wall, where with Boards made Penthouse-wise, they may be defended from the aforesaid injuries of the winter Weather, which Boards may be to take off at Pleasure to Air them; And this way by some Florists is esteemed better than to put them in Houses.

Julyflowers or Cornations are also raised by Seed, for which observe these Directions; about October cut off the Stems with the Cods of those Flowers you design for Seed, which hang up in some dry upper Room until Spring, then rub out the Seed, and Sow it, which will bear in the Flower Season.

CLOVE JVLYFLOWERS.

THe Clove is a more hardy Flower, and will endure to grow in Beds well enough, but in the Snowy Frosty Weather shake off the Snow from them, and lay about the Roots some moushy Straw, which is a great preservative of them. They are encreased by Layers, as other Julyflow­ers; but not by Seed.

PINKS.

THis Flower is of several sorts, and both single and double, the latter being the best; and of those the double Feathered Pink of Austria is of most esteem, being of different colours, but generally White and Reds. They are encreas­ed by Slipings, and are most used to set on the edge of Borders, for which use is also the Mat­ted Pink.

SWEET JOHNS, and SWEET WILLIAMS.

THese are of several sorts, and all bear many Flowers on one Head or Stalk; and of variety of Colours; but generally white and red, with a mixture of both. They Flower in June before Pinks; they are raised by Seeds, and the Slipings also will grow.

[Page 233] The double Sweet Johns, and the Velvet Wil­liams are pretty Flowers.

Colombines.

THese are of many sorts, differing in Form as well as shape, being raised from Seeds; the double are of most esteem, and are general­ly White, Blew, Murrey, Red or Purple, or a mixture of some of these. Those of most re­pute 10 are the double inverted Colombines, the dou­ble Rose, the Degenerate, and the Virginia Co­lombine.

They Flower about the end of May, when Tu­lips go out. The Seeds are Sown in Beds in April, and from thence Transplanted, so that it will be the next Year ere they bear Flowers, nor will they continue double well above three years without Degenerating, or turning single.

SNAP-DRAGON.20

THis is a common Flower, and chiefly differs in its colours; the best sorts are the white, the white Variegated, the red and the yellow Snap-Dragon.

THey are raised from Seeds, and bear Flow­ers the second Year after Sowing; also the Slips taken off and ordered as the double Stock-Julyflowers, 30 will grow and bear Flowers.

FOX GLOVES.

THis Flower is of several sorts, as to the size and colour, the chief are the Dun colou­red, the Orange Tauny, the great white, and the great Yellow Fox Glove. All which are raised by Seeds, and bear Flowers the second Year.40

Corn Flowers and Blew-Bottles.

This is a common Flower, and grows in Fields.

FLOWER GENTLE.

THis is of two sorts, the greater and the les­ser, and of each many Diversities and Colours. They Flower in August, and are raised by Seeds as others are.50

SCABIONS.

THis Flower is of several sorts and Colours, the chief are the white Flower Scabion, th [...] red Scabion of Austria, and the red Indian Scabion. They are raised by Seeds, and ordered as other such like Flowers.

LARKS HEELS.60

THis is as well double as single, being also of several sorts, and raised from Seeds usually sown in April, the chief sorts are the double upright Larks Heel, and the Indian Cresses, or yellow Larks Heel.

DOVBLE POPIES.

THis is a very common Flower, and almost in every Country Garden; it bears Flowers that are Red, Purple, Scarlet, Leadcolour, Blush or White, and one sort that is very small, with the Flowers very double, they Flower in June.

MARYGOLDS.

THis is a Flower of a great Encrease, and when once Sowed in a Ground, will pre­serve it self being hardy to endure the cold Frosts, the Seed lying in the Ground all the Winter. There are several sorts, the chief of which are the Corn Marigold of Peru, called the Flower of the Sun, the double Garden Marygold, the Afri­can or French Marygold, and the less double French or African Marygold.

BLEW BINDWEED, or the BELL-FLOWERS.

IT is so called by reason of the Flowers coming forth from the long Stalks, and for shape (when blown) resemble Bells, one sort being called Canterbury Bells.

Not much unlike these in the manner of grow­ing is the Mervil of Peru, but the Flowers of different Colours; they are raised from Seeds Sown the beginning of April, in Hot Beds, and from thence Transplanted.

APLES of LOVE.

THese are received more for the beauty of the Aples, or Berries, than for their Flower; which are of a Yellow Colour.

GARDEN LVPINS.

THese are of four sorts, one with yellow Flowers, another with white, and two with blew; they bear Pease like Blossoms of a blew Colour; and are Sown in April.

Not much unlike these are the Scarlet Kidney Beans, which of late Years are very common in Gardens.

Thus having given you a Summary of the Flowers mentioned by Mr. Rea, with some short ac­count thereof; In the next place, I shall observe the same Method in giving an abstract of Greens; refer­ing the most curious Florists to the Book it self.

CHAP. VII.
Of Greens, to wit, Ever-Green Trees, that bear Flowers, Fruits, or Berries.

THe BAY-TREE is of several sorts, viz. the Common Bay-Tree, known to all; [Page 234] the Bay-Cherry, growing about ten or twelve foot high, as it were with a thick Bush full of Boughs, adorned with bright shining green Leaves with whitish flowers, which are succeeded by small Cherries, black when ripe.

The Wild-Bay is most proper to spread against a Pale, or Wall; It beareth dark green Leaves, with great Tufts of small white flowers with Blush-edges on the Tops of the Branches, and hath also small blew Berries that succeed the 10 flowers.

The Rose Bay-Tree is of two sorts, the one bearing red flowers, and the other white, and both with small Stems.

The Indian-Bay seldom grows above four foot high, and hath a thick Bush well Leaved, with flowers of a greenish white, succeeded by Berries like small Olives: 'Tis a fine Plant, and by careful keeping in the Winter may be pre­served; it is encreased (as most others are) by 20 Layers, every Slip having the great Leaves stript off, and set in March will grow.

The Wild-Bay of Portugal is much different from the former Wild-Bay, the Leaves being browner, and the Flowers inclining to purple, but the Berries are not unlike them.

The Cherry-Bay flowereth in May, the Wild-Bay in Winter; but most beautiful in March and April; the Rose-Bay, and Indian-Bay in July.

The ORANGE-TREES is a very tender 30 Plant in our Climate, and must be set in Cases, so that they may be Housed in the Winter, as other Greens must be; and by careful tendance it is of great Beauty, there being at one time flowers and fruit both green and ripe; but with us it is in its greatest Beauty in the Spring. Young Plants may be raised from the Kernels, set in rich Mould in Cases in March, and ten­derly kept; they may also be grafted in the Bud. 40

The STRAWBERRY-TREE is a slow grower, seldom exceeding five foot in height; the Leaves are Green, like the Bays, and on the End of the Branches grow the flowers with long Stalks, being little white Bottles like those of the Lily of the Valley, which are succeeded by red Berries, which are ripe in October and November; this Tree being then in its greatest Beauty.

This is a choice Plant to raise either from 50 Seed, or Layers; but being past their tender young Age, are hardy, and will grow very well under any warm Wall.

The MYRTLE-TREE is a very tender Plant, but by careful Housing may be preserved in our old Climate. There are several sorts; The Broad-leaved Myrtle groweth in a thick Bush about four or five foot high, full of Bran­ches, with sweet and fine bright shining Leaves, with Flowers at the Joynts of the Branches. 60

The Lesser-leaved Myrtle groweth like the former, but not so high.

The Box-leaved Myrtle differeth only but in the Leaves, which are like to those of Box.

The Double-flowered Myrtle differeth not from the Broad-leaved Myrtle, only it is not so large and tall; and the Flowers are white, very thick, and double, and of a delicate sweet Scent.

The Great Spanish Laurel-leaved Myrtle is larger than any of the former; the Leaves are of a whitish Green, and for flowers and fruit little differing from those of the Broad-leaved Myrtle.

The sweet Indian yellow JESSAMIN is not above two foot high, adorned with fair, shining Dark-green Leaves, with fair yellow Flowers of a sweet Scent, like unto the white Jessamin.

The Variegated, or Striped PHILLIREA is a curious Plant, far exceeding the ordinary ones, used for Ever-green Hedges: It will grow to the height of a Man, and thick with small Branches, and Leaves, edged or striped vvith white.

These and the like Greens must be set in Cases, or Boxes, and carefully Housed in your Con­servatory at the approach of the cold Winter; but at first set them in only in the Nights, and about March, when the Frosts are past, open the Doors, to give them Sun and Air to refresh them; and about the end of April set them out, washing them clean from the Dust and Cob-Webs, which they did contract in the House. In the hot Season cover the Earth with Moss, to keep it moist, watering them as occasion requires; and whilst they are in the House forget not to Water them gently, especially in November, and after long Frosts; but let not the Water touch the Leaves.

Also every Spring and Autumn, that is, before the setting the Plants forth and Housing them, you take some Earth out of the Cases, opening the rest with a Fork, or Tool, not hurt­ing the tender Roots, supplying the place thereof with good rich Mould, that is one part Earth, and two parts rotten Dung.

The Layers of the hardiest Greens are to be transplanted about Mid March, and the more tender about the end of April: Let the Earth be very rich and fine sifted before it is put into the Cases for the setting the Layers; and at the bottom of the Cases put some small Stones, pieces of Brick, or the like, to draw away the Moisture from the Earth, which will else pre­judice the Roots; and set not the Plants too deep in the Earth: When they are set, water them, and keep them sheltred from the Sun and Wind until they have taken Root, which will be about a Fortnight, and after that they may stand in the Air and Weather.

CHAP. VIII.
Of Flower-Bearing Trees, and Shrubs, that fall their Leaves in Winter, and renew them again in the Spring.10

THe Double-Flowered CHERRY is in all parts like the common English Cherry-Tree, only in the Flowers, which in this are large, thick and double; of a fine white Colour, many growing together, which fall off without bearing Fruit.

There is another Double-Blossom'd Cherry, cal­led in France Merisziere, of the common Black-Cherry, 20 that beareth a large double flower, as big as the lesser Double white Rose.

The Double-flowered PEACH-TREE is not much unlike the common Peach-Tree, on­ly its Flowers, which are double, consisting of three or more rows of Leaves of a redish Blush-colour.

The Double-Blossom'd Wild POMGRANATE-TREE groweth, if pruned up, about seven foot high; otherwise is a thick Bush full of small 30 Branches with some Thorns thereon, and many shining green Leaves, and at the sides and ends of the Branches come forth divers hard, hollow and reddish Cups, and out of them beautiful Flowers of a bright Crimson colour as big as Province Roses.

The Double White PIPE-TREE, or JAS­MINE of Arabia, is a rare but tender Shrub, having divers long, slender, yet stiff Branches, whereon grow fair long Leaves of a fresh green 40 colour, two standing at one Joynt one against another, and at the ends of the Branches shoot forth divers Flowers, each in an Hose, like those of the common white Jasmine, and of an excel­lent scent.

The PERSIAN JASMINE comes up with many small Woody Branches, bedeck'd vvith fine small Leaves, and purplish blew Flow­ers, of a sweet scent.

The Tree of PARADICE of a dark yel­lowish 50 Colour, set vvith long whitish green Leaves, bearing along the Branches divers small Flowers of a greenish yellow.

The Tree of NIGHT-SHADE is about a Yard high, vvith a Woody Stem, vvith many green Branches, beset vvith small long Leaves, and at the Joynts thereof it putteth forth two or three Flowers together of a Star-like form, and upon the decay of the Flowers come small green Berries, that in December are red.60

The Shrub SPIRAEA riseth up with divers Woody-stalks about a Yard high, and at the Tops of the Stalks come forth divers pale Peach-coloured Flowers thick set together. It flowereth in August, endures the Winter, and is encreased by Layers.

WOODY St. JOHN's-WORT groweth about a Yard high, is beset at certain distances vvith Tufts of small green Leaves, and amongst them many small vvhite Flowers vvith purple in the midst. It flowereth in and about the end of April, is hardy, and is encreased by Lay­ers.

The MIZERION, or Dwarf-Bay, groweth in a thick Bush full of Branches, with Leaves and small Flowers growing thick together; some of a pale blush Colour, others of a white, and others of a red; and vvhen these fall off, small Berries come forth, vvhich vvhen ripe are red. These Blossoms begin about the end of January, and continue till the end of March. It is an hardy Plant, is raised by sowing the Berries, vvhich lye long in the Ground, not coming up till the next Spring, and the Year following may be transplanted.

ROSE-TREES.

THere are divers excellent sorts of ROSES, vvhich former Ages vvere Strangers unto. An Account thereof is as followeth:

The English Red Rose, common to all; the Rose of the World, of a pale Blush vvith red Spots; the Hungarian Rose, vvhich is of a paler red than the common Rose, and hath many faint Spots in the Leaves; the Red Province Rose, vvhich hath its Flowers large, thick, and double, vvith no great Scent; the Red Belgick Rose, of a fine deep Red, vvith the Flowers very thick and double; the Dwarf Red Rose, called by some the July Flower Rose, vvhich grows low, vvith the Flowers thick but small, and is of a pleasant Car­nation Colour, and vvell scented; the double Vel­vet Rose, vvhich hath two or three rows of Leaves of a dark Velvet-red Colour; the Marble Rose, much of the nature of the Velvet Rose, as to its growing; but different in Flower, vvhich is larger, more double, and of a lighter Red; the Rose vvithout Thorns, or the Virgin Rose, much like the Marble Rose, only vvithout Thorns, and the Flowers are not so thick and double, and of a pale Colour; the Frankford Rose, vvhich hath large thick vvhitish green Leaves, vvith the Flow­ers very thick and double, which are of a blewish red, and very strong Scented; the Ci­namon Rose which is very early, coming in May; it is but small, and of a pale red; the Da­mask Rose well known to all, none being so common nor of so much use, especially for ma­king Rose-Water; the party Coloured Damask Rose commonly called York and Lancaster, differeth in that the Flowers are parted and marked with a pale blush, inclining to a white upon the Da­mask Colour; the Christal Rose little differeth from the York and Lancaster only 'tis better mar­ked; the Damask province Rose is very large, thick and double, and of a deeper blush; the Monthly Rose, much like the Damask Rose, but not so sweet, it commonly bears three times a year, viz. in June, about mid August, and about the end of September; the Blush Belgick Rose, or the white Province as being of a pale blush. Thus much for Red Roses.

The Single Yellow Rose, by some Florists esteem­ed [Page 236] but a wild Rose; The Scarlet Rose of Austria groweth much like the former, with single Flow­ers, which within are Scarlet, and without side of a pa [...]e Brimstone Colour. The double yellow Rose hath its Flowers of a pale yellow, and grows some­thing like the Damask Province Rose.

The common white Rose is of two sorts, the one double, the other single, and both well known.

The Blush-Rose differs nothing from the White but in Colour, which is a very pale Blush. 10

The double Musk-Rose hath its Flowers, that come forth on long foot Stalks at the End of the Branches many together in a Tuft, not very double, and of a whitish Colour and strong Scent­ed; They Flower in August.

The Ever-green-Rose, so called by reason the Leaves fall not off in the Winter, but stay on un­til thrusted off at the Spring by the new.

The Great Apple-Rose hath a great Stock, and many Branches, with the Flowers small and sin­gle,20 standing on prickly Bottoms, which after the Flowers are fallen, grow great, red, and of the fashion of a Pear.

Mr. Rea saith, that Roses are increased by lay­ing of Layers, that is, the Branches put in the Earth with good rotten Dung about them to grow the faster; or by Inoculating the Buds of them in other Stocks; and the best Stocks are those of the Damask, the white and the Franckford; and about Midsummer, or when good Buds can be got.30 The Stocks of Budded Roses must be carefully kept from Suckers. But the best Stocks for the Musk and Yellow-Rose, and all those double and Centiple-Roses are the sweet Brier.

When the Roses have done bearing, the Tops should be cut with your Garden-Shears some­thing neer, and three or four days after the change of the Moon, and then they will bear again about Michaelmass; and towards the Spring each Branch should be cut again with a Pruning-Knife close to 40 the Leaf-Bud, and what is dead or superfluous should be taken away.

JASMINES, HONISVCKLES, and some other woody Flower-bearing Trees.

JAsmines are of several sorts, the white Jasmine sufficiently well known and much esteemed for its pleasant Scent; The Catalonian or Spanish Jasmine, hath its flowers much larger than the 50 former, and sweeter, with Blush [...]coloured Edges: The double Spanish Jasmine much like the first, but the Flowers double; The Yellow-Jasmine is a great encreaser, bearing small long hollow Flow­ers. The Indian Scarlet-Jasmine hath its Flowers, that come forth at the ends of the Branches many together, which are of a deep Scarlet, veined with small yellow Lines.

The double Honisuckle is so common, that e­very one knows it, nevertheless it is to be esteem­ed,60 for its sweet Flowers. The Italian Honi-Suckle is a very great spreader and bearer, but not of so sweet a scent.

Virgins-Bowe [...] is much of the nature of the Honisuckle; The Flowers are some Red, and o­thers Purple; some double, and others single.

Bastard-Dittany is a small Woody Plant that grows not above two foot high; It is of several sorts, some beareth a reddish Flower; some a white and some an Ash-colour Flower, they are all strong scented.

The Cistus is also a small Woody Plant, and is of two sorts, the Male Cistus, and the Gum Cistus, which is the biggest and greatest spreader. This is a tender Plant not enduring the cold Winter, which the Dittany will.

Other Flower-bearing Trees, and Shrubs.

THe Horse Chesnut, of some esteem for its beautiful fair green Leaves, as also for its Flowers in May.

JVDASTREE hath its Flowers before its Leaves, three or four standing together like Pease-Blossoms, of a fine purplish bright red, which are succeeded by long flat [...] Cods; This is apt to put forth Suckers, by which as also by Layers 'tis en­creased; It seldom grows above six foot high.

BEAN TREFOILE is of two sorts, the greater and the lesser, and both put forth yellow Flowers, much like those of Broom, but lesser and pailer, which are succeeded by flat thin Cods.

The great Bastard Sena [...] with Bladders, hath its Flowers in May, much like those of Broom, af­ter which appear clear thin and transparent Blad­ders with black Seeds.

Spanish Broom puts forth its Flowers towards the top of the Branches in May, which are much like the common Broom, but larger, and the Cods are long and small. There is another kind that bears white Flowers.

The BLADDER NVT, if pruned up, and kept from Suckers, will grow to about six foot high; its Flowers are white and sweet, many hanging down on a long Stalk: after them green­ish Bladders, each containing one smooth small Nut with a green Kernal; the Leaves are like those of Elder. It is encreased by Suckers.

The GILDER, or GILDERLAND ROSE; is a pretty larg spreading Tree, at the top of the young Branches comes forth a round Ball of many single white Flowers close set together. It is a hardy Plant, and is encreased by Suckers.

The SPRINGA, or PIPETREE is of several sorts, but none very tall; the chief differ­ence is in the Flowers, one putting forth blew Flowers, another white, and another a kind of a fair Purple Flower, at the end of the small Bran­ches many together.

CHRISTSTHORN groweth about five or six foot high, hath many slender Branches, set with broad and round Leaves veined, also thick set together on a long Stalk; This is that with which our Saviour was said to be crowned. It is encreased by Layers.

The MYRTLE [...]LEAVED SVMACH riseth from the Root yearly, with many small Branches about four or five foot high, and at the top of the Branches come forth divers Flowers, which are succeeded by small black Berries.

The LARCH TREE is a very slow grower, and not common; beareth amongst its green Leaves beautiful Crimson coloured Flowers, very pleasant to behold.

[Page] [Page]

POMONA

To the Rt. Worshipfull Sr. Robert Clayton of [...] Harden in Surry and of the Citty of London▪ Knight and Lord Major there of Anno [...]680.

This Plate is humbly dedicated by Richard Blome

[Page 237] I shall conclude this Chapter with some E­ver-Green Trees worth the taking notice of.

EVERGREEN TREES.

The CYPRESS TREE groweth pyramidi­cal, and is much used in Gardens; 'tis propt up by a Pole which runs up in the midst, to which it is bound about with Wyer, but being a Tree so common, is known to all.10

The TREE of LIFE is a slow grower, yet hath many hanging-down Branches, on the tops of which in May are small downy yellowish Flow­ers with standing small scaly heads. This Plant is encreased by Layers.

The EVERGREEN OAK is of a slow growth, and not very large; It beareth small Mossy yellowish Flowers in the Spring, and in some places small blackish Acorns. This is encreased by Layers. 20

HOLLY is common every where, but there is a sort that hath Green shining Leaves, vario­ly marked with a yellowish Colour.

BOX is of several Sorts, the common English sort is known to all; the Gilded Box, whose Leaves are edged with yellow, and the Dwarf Box, which is much smaller than the former; and of this there is a gilded kind esteemed the best of all. All Sorts are easily raised; for every Slip set in March will take root and grow.30

PYRACANTHA, or the Ever-green Haw­thorn, if permitted to grow, will be about six foot high, full of Branches, beset with Leaves snipt about the Edges, and long sharp Thorns; The Flowers come forth in the Spring in Cluster, to­gether, as the Berries are that succeed, being of a bright red: It is encreased by Suckers, Layers, and by sowing the Berries like as you do Haws. This Green with Phyllirea or Privet, makes a very good Ever-green Hedge. 40

The STAFF TREE is a small grower, and bears on a little Stalk four or five yellowish green Flowers, which turn into small Berries, like Black Cherries; 'tis of chief use for Hedges mixt with Pyracantha, and is encreased by Layers.

The Ever-Green PRIVE [...] groweth low in a thick Bush full of Branches, and Leaves; the Flowers come forth many of them together at the Joynts, being small and white, which are succeed­ed by little Black Berries.

PHYLLIREA or Mock Privet is of seve­ral Sorts, and all very good; the Flowers which are many together, are of a Greenish yellow, after which come small black Berries. 50

This Green, as also the Ever Green-Privet is excellent for Hedges in Gardens, by reason they may be cut, and brought to carry to any Form by the Garden shears, and so kept in any compass by Laths or Rods.

The LAWREL and the BAY are very com­mon,60 and well known, and much used for several occasions, the former being of much esteem for the adornment of Houses. They grow best a­gainst the sides of Pales, or a Wall, or a House, and in the Shade.

CHAP. IX.
Of FRVIT-TREES, and how to propagate and manage them, as to Planting, Grafting, Inoculating, Pruning, &c. with an Account of each sort of Fruit.

THere is no greater Improvement to be made on Ground, than the planting it with Fruit Trees, especially if rightly ordered, and good sorts of Fruits made choise of, which for the ge­nerality should be those that are durable, and will keep the Winter Season: and also such that are most fit to make Cider and Perry of▪ The charges and trouble of planting is inconsiderable to the great profit accrewing thereby. But the Rustick People will not easily be perswaded to go out of their old way, nor be at one Peny charge in expectation of a future Gain; Therefore it were to be wished that when any Landlord lets a Lease of any Ground, he would tie the Tenant by Covenant strictly to plant such a quantity of Fruit Trees on the Premises every Year in his Hedg Rows, or such like vacant places that will be no way prejudicial to the management of his Crops, were it but four Trees to an Acre, which is but an inconsiderable charge; and they are easily preserved from the Injury of Cattle by bushing or railing them about, which may be done by his own hands at spare Hours. But to proceed to the ordering and Raising them.

How to propagate Fruit-Trees.

DIvers ways may be used for the raising of Fruit-Trees, as by Grafting, Inoculating, or Budding; also by Layers, Suckers, and Slips; and likewise from the Seed, Nut or Kernel.

GRAFTING.

THe Art of Grafting, as also Innoculating doth preserve the Species of the most curious Fruits, and meliorates their Gusts or Tasts; for Fruits that are raised from the Kernels do produce most commonly a kind of wild Fruit [...]ngrateful to the Palate, participating of the wildness of the Stock, on which the Tree was Grafted.

Sometimes Apples, and Pears may happen to be good, being raised from the Kernel; but for Cher­ries, Plumbs, Aprecocks, Peaches, &c. produ­ced from the Stone, or Kernel, unless Grafted, or Inoculated▪ are esteemed but of small value.

Things to be observed in Grafting.

YOur first business is to be provided with Stocks, which must be according to the na­ture of the Tree, you intend to Graft; for Apples [Page 238] the Crab stock is the best; also Stocks raised from every sower Fruit may do, for they bear the best, and soundest Fruit, and the Tree will be the larger, and grow freer from the Canker.

If you would have Dwarf Trees, make choise of the Paradise Apple, either raised from the Ker­nels, or Layers, for the Branches are as apt to take Root as those of Codlins; But by reason the Paradice Apple is a slow grower, you may graft the Cyon thereof on a Crabstock close to the Ground,10 and when it is grown to the bigness of ones Fin­ger, graft about eight Inches higher thereon, such Fruit as you would have, which will quicken the growth of the Paradice Apple, and cause the Fruit to be better.

PEARS are to be grafted on Stocks raised from the Kernel, the White Thorn commonly u­sed is not good.

PLVMS are to be Grafted on Plum Stocks raised from Suckers, or the Stones, of which 20 sort the great white Pear-plum is esteemed the best; and indeed any that have very large Leaves and Shoots, are good either to Graft any choise Plums upon, or for the Budding of Peaches and Aprecocks.

CHERRIES are best to be Grafted on black Cherry Stocks; but Stocks of a better Nature may be raised from the Stones of the Black-Heart, the Duke, the Amber, and the Morello-Cherries. For the Grafting the May and Early Cherries, the 30 Stocks of the common English Cherry is said to be the best, but it is not so good for a Wall as the Morello, or other sorts, as growing too high.

MEDLERS are best to be Grafted on Pear-Stocks.

QVINCES are raised by Cuttings, or Suckers, which being set in good Earth, and kept watered if the Season proves dry, will not fail to grow; and when they have taken Root in Winter, remove them into your Nursery; and in a Year or two 40 they will be fit to Graft Pears on for Wall-Fruit, being esteemed better than Pearstocks, as not grow­ing so high.

APRICOCKS, PEACHES and NECTE­RINES are usually Innoculated in Plum-stocks raised from Suckers, or the Stones; and those of the white Pear-plum, as aforesaid is the best, as also for Budding of Apricocks, and Peaches; but for the Necterine a Pear-stock is most pro­per.

GOOSBERRIES and CVRRANS, as also Ser­vices 50 are Innoculated on their own kind.

FILBERTS are raised from Nuts of their own kind, the like are Walnuts.

For the raising Stocks.

BBeing provided with what quantity of Stones and Kernels you design to Sow about October (being then a good Season) let there be a Bed 60 of Earth well prepared and dressed, and therein Sow the Kernels of Crabs or such like Apples, and cover them with fine Mould sifted over two or three fingers thick. And for Fruitstones you may prick them down in Rows two or three Fin­gers deep, with the sharp ends downwards; and in the Winter cover the Beds over with long Dung to preserve them from the cold Frosts, which when the Weather grows warm, as about April, must be taken off. You must keep them clean from Weeds, and in two Years they will be fit to remove into other Beds, to be Planted at greater distances for the conveniency of Grafting.

Cherry-stones are to be Sown, and ordered as Apple kernels: But before you Transplant any of these Stocks, you must cut off such Roots as run down, as also the Tops and side Branches, placing them in Rows, closing well the Earth about them; and be sure to set each kind apart, for the knowing what Fruit it is. When they are grown to a sufficient bigness, of about an Inch in Diameter, they may be fit to Graft in the Cleft; and set not the Roots too deep, as being more Troublesom to remove.

Crab, or Apple-stocks thus raised, are better than those that come from the Wood, or any other ways.

The Nursery thus set, may be ready after one Year to Innoculate, and after two or three Years to Graft.

Trees Grafted on a Gennet Moyl, or Ciderstock, preserve best the tast of a delicate Apple, especi­ally the Pippin; but on a Crabstock the Tree lasts longer, and hath a more tart palatable relish; the same Rule may be observed in the choise of Stocks for Pears, Plums, Cherries, Aprecocks, &c. for the more Acid the Stocks are, the more life it gives the Fruit.

Although the Fruit doth generally take after the Graft, yet it is somwhat altered by the Stock, either for the better or worse.

The Pear Grafted on a Quince-stock, produceth its Fruit better than the same kind upon a wild Pear-stock, and fairer, much better coloured; and causeth the Trees to bear sooner, and more Fruit.

The Soyl of the Ground designed for the Nur­sery, ought to be considered, which should be a light Mould, not too rich, nor too barren, and that which lyeth warm, will cause the Stocks to thrive the better.

Gather your Grafts of Plums, Pears, and Cherries from mid January, to mid February, but those of Apples may continue till March.

Choose such as are of two Saps, that the old Wood to the knot may be placed in the Stock; those of one Years Shoot will serve in default of the other; but such will be longer before they come to bear. Make choise of such Grafts that are strongest, and from such Branches that are fullest of Fruit Buds, and aptest to bear; and bind every sort of Graft in bundles by it self, with the Name of the Fruit writ on a Parchment L [...]bel, lest you should forget the sort; and for your greater care a Book should be kept, where each sort is entred down. These Grafts should be put in the Earth by themselves about half ways, for preserving them fresh until you shall use them.

Grafting is an Artificial placing the Cyon, or Graft of one kind upon the Stock of another, so as the Sap of the Stock may without Impedi­ment come to nourish the Graft. It is therefore necessary (the Sap passing betwixt the Bark and [Page 239] the Wood) that they be exactly joyned, and well bound together, which may be thus done.

The time and Manner of Grafting.

THe best time to Graft is in February, and March, but forward Fruits may be Graf­ted in January; and some backward Fruits in the beginning of April, provided the Spring be not 10 too forward; for the Temperature of the Sea­son doth very much conduce to the growth or proof of the Graft, as mild Weather in Decem­ber, or January may be better than Frosty Wea­ther in February; and indeed such kind of Wea­ther is not fit to Graft in.

Grafts of any kind being cut before they be­gin to Spring, may be kept many Days; and carryed a good distance, being bound up in bun­dles in Moss, and the ends wrapt up in Clay, or 02 Stuck in a Turnip; and although they are a little withered, yet they will prove not the worse.

Having your Stocks or Grafts in readiness, as also all your Tools and Materials, as the Pru­ning-Knife, Pen-Knife, a fine Saw, a Mallet and a Wedge, also Rushes, strong soft Flags, or Wool­len Yarn to bind the Graft and Stock together; and Clay well tempered with Hors-Dung, to keep it from Choping in dry Weather, or soft Wax for smaller Trees, you may proceed to your work,30 which may be performed several ways.

The first and most usual is Grafting in the Cleft, especially for the middle sized Stocks, and after this manner; First saw of the Head of the Stock in a smooth place, which for Wall or Dwarf Trees should be within four Fingers of the Ground, and for Standards much higher according to the growth of the Stock; then pare away with your Knife the Roughness that the Saw hath left on the Head of the Stock, which done, cleave the Head a 40 little besides the Pith, and put therein a long Wedge of hard Wood to keep the Cleft open; which cut smooth with the point of your Knife, that the sides may be even; then cut the Graft on both sides from some Knot or Bud in form of a Wedge, in length proportionable to the Cleft with shouldrings; which Graft being so cut, place exactly in the Cleft, that the inward Bark of the Cyon may closely joyn to the inward part of the Rind, or Bark of the Stock, in which lyes the 50 principal skill of the Grafter; then draw out the Wedge: But if the Stock pinch hard, lest it should endanger the dividing the Rind of the Graft from the Wood, to the spoiling the Graft, let the inward side of the Graft that is within the Wood of the Stock be left the thicker, that so the Woody part of the Graft may bear the Stress; or there may be a small Wedge left to keep it from pinching the Graft too hard; and likewise leave the outside of the Graft a little the thicker; and in this business great care is required. The Graft 60 being thus fixed into the Stock, your next and last business is to cover the Head of the Stock, with the Tempered Clay or soft Wax for the small Grafts, and leave not the Grafts too long.

There is another way of Grafting much like the former, which is Grafting in the Bark or Rind of the greater Stocks, and differs only in this, that where you cleave the Stocks and fasten the Grafts within the Cleft in the other way, here with a small Wedge made of Ivory, Box, or some hard Wood cut Taperwise, with a thin point you force into the Stock between the Rind and the Wood after the Head thereof is sawn off, and the roughness pared away. Then take the Graft, and at the shoulder or grossest part thereof, cut it round with your small Grafting-Knife; and take off the Rind wholly downwards, preser­ving as much of the inward Rind as you can; then cut the Wood of the Graft about an Inch in length, and take away half thereof to the Pith, and the other half Taper it away, and set in the place you made with your Wedge, be­tween the Bark of the Stock and the Wood, that the shouldring of the Graft may joyn close to the Bark, or Rind of the Stock, and then cover it with Clay, as before directed. This way is best to be used when the Stock is too big to be cleft, and where the Bark, or Rind is thick; and here you may set into one Stock many Grafts, and that of several sorts, if you so think fit.

Your great care must be to keep the Top of the Stocks close covered for some time, until the Bark it self hath covered it; for otherwise the Rain will Rot the Stock. And do not leave the Grafts above four or five Inches above the Stocks, for if too long, they draw more feeble, and are more exposed to the injuries of the Weather, nei­ther do they prosper so well. And observe to Graft your Cyons on the side of the Stock, that may receive the least damage from the South-west wind, so that it may blow into the Stock, and not from it.

There is another way of Grafting, called Shoul­der, or WHIP-GRAFTING fit only for small Stocks, and to be performed somwhat la­ter than the former; and this may be done two several ways; first by cutting off the Head of the Stock, and smooth it as in Cleft-Grafting; then cut the Graft from a Knot, or Bud on one side slo­ping, about one Inch and a half long, with a shouldring smooth and even sloping by Degrees▪ that the lower end may be left thin; place the shouldring of the Graft upon the Head of the Stock, and mark the length of the cut part of the Graft; and with your Knife cut away so much of the Bark, as the cut side of the Graft did cover, but touch not the Wood of the Stock; then place both together, that their Saps may exactly joyn; then bind them together with your Rushes, Flags, or Yarn, and cover the Heads over with Clay, as afore directed.

The other way of Whip-Grafting, is where the Grafts and Stocks are of an equal size, the Stock must be cut sloping upwards from the one side to the other; and the Graft after the same manner from the shoulder downwards, that the Graft may exactly joyn with the Stock in every part; which done, bind them about with your Flags or Rushes, and put Clay about them as a­foresaid.

This way of Whip-Grafting is esteemed better than Grafting in the Cleft, and for these Reasons, 1. This way requires smaller Stocks; 2. It is less [Page 240] injurious to the Stock and Graft; 3. The Wound is sooner healed, and is better defended from the injuries of the Weather; and 4. It is more easy to learn, and to be performed.

There is another way of Grafting called Graf­ting by Approach, or Ablactation, and this is done in April, sooner or later according to the State of the Spring. It is to be performed where the Stock you intend to Graft on, and the Tree from which you take your Graft or Cyon, stand so 10 near together that they may be conjoyned; then take the Sprig or Branch you intend to Graft, and pare away about three Inches in length of the Rind, and Wood near the Pith; cut also the Stock or Branch on which you intend to Graft after the same manner, that they may joyn exactly together, and that the Sap may meet; and so bind them about, and cover them with Clay, as aforesaid.

So soon as you perceive the Graft and Stock to 20 unite and incorporate together, cut off the Head of the Stocks, hitherto left on, about four Inches above the binding, and in March following the remaining stub also together with the Graft or Cyon underneath, close to the grafted place, that it may only subsist by the Stock.

Some use to cut off the Head of the Stock at first, then joyn the Cyon thereunto, after the man­ner of Shoulder-Grafting, differing only in not severing the Cyon from its own Stock; both ways 30 are good, but the first most successful.

This manner of Grafting is chiefly used in such nice and tender Plants, as are not apt to take any other way, as Lemmons, Oranges, Pomegranets, Vines, Jessamines, and the like.

You must remember that those Grafts that are bound you must unbind about Midsummer, otherwise the Band will injure them.

There is a new way of Grafting, which is thus done; Take a Graft or Sprig of a Tree you de­sign 40 to propagate, and a small piece of the Root of another Tree of the same kind, or very near it, and Whip-Graft them together, and bind them well, and plant it where you intend it shall stand, or else in your Nursery, which piece of Root will draw sap and feed the Graft, as doth the Stock after the other ways.

Be sure to untie the two But-Ends of the Graft and the Root, and that the Rind of the Root joyn to the Rind of the Graft. By this means the 50 Roots of one Crab or Apple-Stock may serve for twenty or thirty Apple Grafts. In like manner you may do for Cherries, Pears, or Plums.

And thus you may raise a Nursery of Fruit-Trees instead of Stocks; and it is esteemed better for the raising of Tender Trees, that will hardly endure the Grafting in the Stock; for here they are not exposed to the injury of the Sun, Wind, or Rain; Also Trees, thus Grafted will bear soon­er, and the better for Dwarf-Trees. 60

This way is easily performed, and may be done in great quantities in a little time within Doors, and then planted in the Nursery in Rows and Beds, as you do your Stocks.

Of INNOCVLATING, or BVDDING.

THis way of Innoculating, or Budding is by many preferred before Grafting, by which means several sorts of delicate Fruits are propa­gated and meliorated, which cannot be done by Grafting in the Root; as the Peach, Aprecock or Nectarine rarely thrive any other way than this, because few Stocks can feed the Graft with Sap so early in the Spring as the Graft requires; but be­ing rightly Innoculated in the fulness of the Sap seldome fails.

The Stocks to Innoculate on are to be the same kinds, as directed to Graft on, but the Peach takes best on its own kind, and the Ne­ctarine on a Peach Stock.

The best time for this business is from Mid­summer to mid July, when the Sap is strongest in the Stock, and bark easiest to be raised, and tis best to be done in a dry Season, and in the Evening, for Rain is very pernitious to the Buds; also the Buds must not be too young nor tender, but sufficiently grown. Those of the Aprecock are the soonest ready, and must be taken from strong and well grown Shoots of the same Year.

The Tools, or Instruments required in this cu­rious Art are the sharp pointed Penk-nife, a Quill cut half away and made sharp and smooth at the end, to divide the Bud and Rind from the Stalk, and Woollen Yarn, Flags, or the like to bind them with all.

Having your Instruments and Buds in readiness, you may proceed to your Work after this man­ner, on some part of the Stock, either near or further from the Ground, according as you in­tend it, either for a Wall, Dwarf Tree, or Stand­ard, and from the middle thereof gently Slit the Bark, or Rind, about an Inch long in form of a T, not wounding the Stock; then nimbly pre­pare the Bud by cutting off the Leaf, and leave on­ly the Tayl, about half an Inch from the Bud; then Slit the Bark, on each side the Bud, a little dist­ance from the Bud, and take away the Bark, a­bove and below the Bud, like a Sheild, that it may the more easily go down, and unite be­tween the Bark, and the Stock; then with your Quill dexterously take off the Bark and Bud, that you leave not the Root behind; for if you see a Hole under the Bud on the inside, the Root is gon; cast it away, and prepare another. When your Bud is ready, raise the Bark of the Stock on each side in the Slit (preserving as carefully as you can the inner thin Rind of the Stolk) put in with care the Bud between the Bark and the Stock, thrusting it down until the top joyn to the cross Cut, then bind it close with your Yarn, or Flags, but not on the Bud it self.

There is another way of Innoculating which is more easy, and successful than the former, from which it differs only that the Bark is Slit upwards, from the cross Cut, and the Bud put upwards, leaving the lower end longer than may serve, and when it is in its place, cut off that which is superfluous, and joyn the Bark of the Bud to the Bark of the Stock, and bind it as before direct­ed.

[Page 241] There is also another way, which is to cut the Edges of the Bark about the Bud Square, and cut the Bark of the Stock fit to receive it binding it fast, and this is a sure and easy way.

About three Weeks, or a Month after Innoculat­ing unbind the Buds, and in the unbinding them you may see which are good by their lively ap­pearance. In March following cut off the Stock about three Fingers above the Bud, and the next year cut it close, that the Bud may cover the Stock 10 as Grafts usually do.

Fruits raised from Seeds, Stones, Nuts, and Kernels.

SUch Fruits that are raised from Seeds, Stones, Nuts and Kernels, are Almonds, Services, Chesnuts, Walnuts, Filberts and common Nuts; likewise Oranges and Lemmons; all which are to 20 be sown in Beds, and from thence transplanted into your Nursery at convenient distance, where they are to stand until fit to be transplant­ed.

The best way to raise WALLNVT-TREES is from the Nut; which from the time of gather­ing you may keep in a Bed of Sand, or Earth, until March, and then plant them; and if you can, in the places where you intend they shall grow, (for transplanting them doth much check 30 their growth). You must have a great care to pre­serve them from Mice which are great destroyers of them.

FILBERTS and NVTS are raised also from the Nut the same way as Wall-Nuts; the like are Chesnuts, &c.

Fruits raised by Layers, Slips and Suck­ers.40

THere are several sorts of Fruit Trees raised with more ease from Layers, Slips and Suckers than by Grafting, Innoculating, or from Seed, and such are Vines, Figs, Malberies, Bar­beries, Currans, Rasberys, Goosberys, Quinces, Cod­lins, Gennet-Moyls, &c.

For VINES any shoot of the last Year (es­pecially if a short piece of the former Years groweth be cut with it) will grow, being laid in 50 February about a foot and a half within the Ground long-ways, and not above two or three Buds at the most out of the Ground; but you must be very careful to keep them watered in the heat of the Summer.

The FIG-TREE yields Suckers, which is the usual way to encrease them.

The MVLBERRY-TREE is very diffi­cult to raise; 'tis best thus done. Cut a Bough off, as big as a Mans Arm, which cut into pieces 60 about a Yard long, and lay into the Ground (that is rich) about a Foot deep, with one end a­bout a handful broad out of the Ground, and af­ter a Year or two being kept watered in a dry Summer Season, divers young Sprigs may be drawn with Roots fit to transplant, and the old Roots will yet send out more.

The BARBERY Tree is raised from Suckers laid into good Earth, as before directed.

RASBERRYS, GOOSBERRYS and CVRRANS are also raised from Suckers, be­ing all great encreasers.

The CODLIN, as also the GENNET­MOIL are easily raised by Suckers, and Slips, being apt to thrive in any Ground, but that which is moist is best agreable with their nature.

QVINCES, like unto Codlins, are easily propagated from Suckers, which being set in any moist place, will soon draw Root.

Of Transplanting Trees.

THe best Season to Transplant and set Trees is from Mid [...] October to the end of January, if the Weather be open; and if the Spring is not too forward in February.

In taking them up out of your Nursery be care­ful that the Roots be not cut, or broken, especially the Spreading Roots, and let the Roots be left lon­ger than the Heads, and the more vvays they Spread, the better; but such Roots as run down­vvards may be taken off; likewise the ends of those that you find too long, as also most of the small Threads vvhere they grovv too thick: you must likewise prune as vvell the Branches as the Roots.

The Ground being prepared vvhere the Trees are to be set, raise a small Hill in the Center of each Hole, vvhich should be vvide made, and thereon set the Tree, opening and spreading the Roots round about it, and cover them vvith the best Earth, and shake the Tree, that the Roots lie not hollovv, treading it dovvn to fasten them.

Plant not too deep, especially in such Ground that is clayish, over-moist or spewy; as also Gra­velly, or Chalky; but as near the surface as you can, or above it, raising the Earth about the Tree; which vvay one Sr. Josias Child or Wanstead in Essex a great Planter hath observed (to the admiration of Beholders) his Ground lying upon a Gravel; for if Trees are too deep planted, they generally pine away.

It is very necessary to be observed that the Ground vvhere you plant your Trees should be of a richer, and higher Mould than the Nursery from vvhence you take them; otherwise they vvill not thrive so vvell. It is also a great check to take them out of a warm Nursery and transplant them in an open vvide Field free from shelter.

As near as you can, choose young thriving Trees, rather than those that are large, for an Orchard of such young ones vvill soon overtake one planted vvith larger Trees at the same time.

The Mode of planting is novv upon a Square, so that you have a Row, look vvhich vvay you vvill; and for distance thirty or forty foot is very vvell, for then you may make some benefit of the under Ground, either by Grass or Tillage, Likevvise the Trees vvill have more benefit of the Sun and Air than vvhen planted to near or irregu­lar, and by consequence vvill thrive the bet­ter, and the Fruit vvill be the fairer and better tasted.

[Page 242] You may set your Apple Trees at thirty foot distance, and between every Tree set a Chery Tree, which Method is now much used; for by the time that the Apple Trees will spread to require the place of the Chery Trees, the Che­ries will have done bearing, which will be in about Twenty Years time; and then they may be cut down and grubbed up, so that you have then a sine Apple-Orchard. And be sure let the 10 Rows be of one intire sort of Fruit and not mix­ed, which is very convenient for the gathering the Fruit, and laying them together in sorts.

PEARS are to be set as Apple Trees, with a Chery betwixt; But for Plums they may be set in the Angles of the Ground, or in Hedg­rows.

FILBERTS are best to be set to make a Walk, the like may Walnuts; and Codlins are set at a closer distance, being good to make H [...]d [...]rows. 20

WALLFRVIT are to be Planted at such a distance as the hight of the Wall, and the Na­ture of the Fruit requires; for the higher the [...] the nearer together, and the lower the far­ther, that they may have room to spread in breadth, which they want in height.

Of Pruning, Plashing, and ordering of Trees.

IT is found by Experience, that the Pruning of 30 Trees, and taking away their dead and un­necessary Branches, doth much better their growth.

If you would not have the Grafts and Twigs to mount up too high, you may pinch off their tender Tops, which will cause them to put forth side Branches.

In March is the best time to take away the small and Superfluous Branches, giving them a [...]nce close behind the Bud, which is much to be 40 observed in Pruning.

The old Trees may be Pruned in October, and November; and thence forward until the rising of the Sap.

Wall-Trees are to be pruned in Summer, taking away those Superfluous shoots of the same Years growth, that hinder the ripening of the Fruit; and in the Winter after the Fall of the Leaf you may prune and take away the residue of the Branches that are unnecessary, placing those that 50 are fit to remain in order.

Some are of Opinion that the best time for this business, and to nayl the Boughs to the Wall, is in February, after the great Frosts are past, except Peaches and Ne [...]rines, which must be pruned when the Buds begin to put forth; for if sooner, it will endanger the killing them.

In pruning of Trees (especially Wall-Trees) be sure to leave the small Twigs that are short and knitted to Blossom the succeeding Year; for if 60 you observe such Twigs have the most Fruit, be­ing usually of two Years growth. But cut off all gross Shoots that will not be easily brought to the Wall.

In Pruning the VINE leave some new Bran­ches every Year, and take away (if too many) some of the old, which will much further its bear­ing; And when you cut your Vine, leave two Knots, and cut at the next Interval; for usual­ly the two Buds yield a Bunch of Grapes, and when (through Ignorance) they are close cut, as for Beauty sake, they commonly bear few or no Grapes.

The Pruning of Trees doth much depend on the Discretion of the Person, who is to consider the growth of every Tree; and what may most conveniently be taken away without leaving the Walls bare.

Divers necessary things to be observed about Fruit-Trees.

THe Roots of such Trees that Thrive not, nor bear well, may be laid open about No­vember; and if the Ground be poor in the Spring, lay thereto good Fat Mould; but if the Ground be too rich, so that the Tree spends it self in Leaves and Branches, and bears but little Fruit; then put to the Roots, Lime, Ashes, or any Manure that is Hot, Salt and Dry, being mixed with the Earth.

Digging about the Roots of the Trees, adds much to their Fertility, and prevents Moss.

Stones laid in heaps about the Roots, preserve them cool and moist in Summer, and warm in Winter; and cause great Fertility.

If your Orchard is not Naturally warm Seated, and defended from Winds by Woods, Hills, or the like; I would advise you when first you Plant your Orchard, to raise about it a good White-Thorn Hedge, which in a few Years will be a good shelter. Also at some distance beyond the Hedge Plant a Row of Wal-Nut, Chesnut, Popler or Lime-Trees, which growing higher than the Hedge, will the better break off the Wind; But Plant the Trees at such a distance from the Hedge, that the dropings of the Leaves may not fall upon it, which will spoil its grow­ing.

If the Tree be Bark-bound, and doth not thrive, slit the Bark down the Body of the Tree with your Knife in April or May, which will cure it.

If the cleft where the Tree was Grafted, or any other wounded place be neglected, the Rain is apt to engender the Canker, which is hard to cure, if far gone; and if cutting off the Cankered Branches will not do (it being so much infected) the best way is to cut it down for the Fire, and Plant another in its Room.

In Dunging of Fruit-Trees, the Soyl should be laid not close to the Body, but at some distance where the Roots run; and strong and hot Dung is not so good, as that well rotted and cold, espe­cially for hot Grounds, but the Soyl of the Streets is far better.

For causing old decayed Trees to bear well a­gain, about the end of October, or beginning of November, Prune the Trees from their decayed, bruised, and Superfluous Branches; also scrape off the Moss, which is as bad as Ivy is to the Oak; then dig the Earth about the Trees at least a Yard round, and about a Spit deep; and let it [Page 243] lye open all the Winter until mid-March, then give the Trees a good Watering, at least a Barrel to a Tree, then lay on some good rotten Dung, and cover it over with the Earth, then about the end of May give each Tree the like Watering, and this will cause them to bear to Admira­tion.

To prevent the Bliteing of Fruit, when you find there is an Easterly, or a Northeasterly Wind, take three or four Armfulls of Musty Straw, or 10 Fern, and that side of the Orchard that the W [...]d blows on, lay the said stuff in three or four pla­ces, according to the bigness of the Orchard, and so set Fire to it; and the Wind will drive the Smoak and smother through all the Trees; and thus do every Day so long as the Wind continues in that quarter; and it will prevent all Blites, and all manner of Flies and Catterpillers that these Winds bring.

Orchards that lye low, and near Rivers, have 20 their Fruit waterish, puffy, and subject to perish; to prevent which, in October or November lay o­pen the Roots of the Trees about a Yard and a half in compass, and at least a Spit deep, then fill up the place with Chalk, and let it lye open all the Winter for the Frost to chasten it, and to Incorporate the better with the Earth; and about the end of March throw the Earth upon the Chalk, and give each Tree a good Watering, and your Fruit will be of another tast for goodness; 30 and will also be firm, and last as long as if grown on higher Ground.

Having given you sufficient Instructions for the Ordering, Grafting, and Innoculating of Fruit-Trees, I shall conclude this Chapter by giving an Account of the several sorts of Apples, Pears, Plums, &c.

Sorts of APPLE-TREES.40

GReat are the Variety of Apples, as indeed of all other Fruits, some coming early for Summer Fruit, and others late for Winter Fruit. A Catalogue of the choisest is as follow­eth.

  • The Juniting.
  • The King Apple.
  • The Margaret or Magda­len.
  • The Famagusta.
  • The Giant Apple.
  • The good Housewife.
  • Pome de Rambures.
  • The Winter Queening.
  • The Quince Apple.
  • The Carlisle Pepin.
  • The Bridgwater Pepin.
  • The Kirton Pepin.
  • The Golden Pepin.
  • The Kentish Pepin.
  • The Holland Pepin.
  • The Green Pepin.
  • The Roman Pepin.
  • The French Pepin.
  • The Italian Pepin.
  • The Black Pepin.
  • The Russet Pepin.
  • The Summer Pepin.
  • The Beauford Pepin.
  • The Lincoln Rennet.50
  • The Golden Rennet.
  • The Great Rennet.
  • The Kentish Rennet.
  • The Russet Rennet.
  • The Red Russet.
  • The Round Russet Har­vey.
  • The Harm Russet.
  • The Nonsuch.
  • The Royal Pearmain.60
  • The Summer Pearmain.
  • The Winter Pearmain.
  • The Lowins Pearmain.
  • The Apple Royal.
  • The Darling.
  • The Angels Bit.
  • The Blandril.
  • The Year Apple.
  • The Marygold Apple.
  • The Palman Apple.
  • The John Apple.
  • The Pomewater.
  • The Sage Apple.
  • The Marygold.
  • The Marygold Stocken.
  • The Rose Apple.
  • The David Apple.
  • The Davy Gentle.
  • The Flower of Kent.
  • The Henrietta Maria.
  • The Old wife.
  • The Gillyflower.
  • The Gaunt Apple.
  • The Kitchin Apple.
  • The Powel Apple.
  • The White Coster.
  • The Gray Coster.
  • The Red Coster.
  • The Violet Apple.
  • The Cotten Apple.
  • The Pome Roy.
  • The Boughton Greening.
  • The Harvy Apple.
  • The Summer Belle Bon.
  • The Winter Belle Bon.
  • The Breading.
  • The Spising.
  • The Master John.
  • The Master William.
  • The Bardfield Queening.
  • The French Goodwin.
  • The Worcester Apple.
  • The Sugar Apple.
  • Sops in Wine.
  • The Paradice Apple.
  • The Fig Apple, which is without Core, or Kernel, and without Blossom, the Fruit coming out of the sides of the Branches, as big as a Pepin.
Several sorts of PEARS.
For the Table.
  • The Summer Bon Christi­en.
  • Burgomet de Buga.
  • The Great Burgomet.
  • The Summer Burgomet.
  • The Winter Burgomet.
  • The Orange Burgomet.
  • Brezid Heri.
  • Baeure de Roy.
  • The Green Baeure Pear.
  • The Violet Pear.
  • The Binfield.
  • The Greenfield.
  • The Great Musk Pear.
  • The Great Russet of Renes.
  • The Amodotte.
  • The Bloody Pear.
  • The Rousellet.
  • The Winter Bon Christi­en.
  • The Pourtail.
  • The Dead Mans Pear.
  • The Winter Musk.
  • The Dionier.
  • The Double Flowered Pear.
  • The Dutate.
  • The Primating Pear.
  • The Red Geneting.
  • The Diego Pear.
  • The Green Chissel.
  • The King Katherine.
  • The Queen Katherine.
  • The Russet Katherine.
  • The Anthony Pear.
  • The Berry Pear.
  • The Morley Pear.
  • The Windsor Pear.
  • The Musk Pear.
  • The King Pear.
  • The Summer Poppering.
  • The Green Poppering.
  • The Royal Pear.
  • The Pinp Pear.
  • The Prick Pear.
  • The Whorwood Pear.
  • The Colveil Pear.
  • The Tradescans Pear.
  • The Slipper Pear.
  • The Twelve penny Pear.
  • The Inglefield Pear.
  • The Norwich Pear.
  • The Orang Pear.
  • The Swai [...]e Pear.
  • The Nonsuch Pear.
The Pears for Baking.
  • The French Warden.
  • The Spanish Warden.
  • The Great Warden.
  • The Red Warden.
  • The White Warden.
  • The Green Warden.
  • Parkinsons Warden.
  • Godboults Warden.
  • The Red Roman Warden.
  • The Quince Pear.
  • The Painted Pear.
  • The Tunip Pear.
  • The Canterbury Pear.
  • The Bell Pear.
  • The Black Pear of Wor­cester.
  • The Winter Katherin.
  • The Baking Greenfield.
  • The Great Surrein.
Other choise Pears brought out of France.
  • The Ambrette.
  • The Averac.
  • The Amadote.
  • The Burgomot de la Gril­liere.
  • The Burgomot de Suisse
  • The Burgomot de Bugi.
  • Baeurre de Autumn.
  • Baeurre d' Hyver.
  • Bezidery.
  • Bezideraisson.
  • Bon Chretin d' Espagne.
  • Bon Chretien d' este Mus (que)
  • Bourdon Musque.
  • Brouta Bon.
  • Petite Cuisse Madame.
  • Double Fleur.
  • Epine d' Hyver.
  • Frondente de Bresse.
  • Lansac.
  • Martinsec.10
  • Monsieur.
  • Petite Musquat.
  • Roy d' Este.
  • St. Michael.
  • Virgouleuse.
  • Vert Longue.
  • Messire Jean.
Several sorts of PLVMS.20
  • Yellow and white Plums
  • The Amber Primordian.
  • The Prunella.
  • The Diapered Plum.
  • The Marbled Plum.
  • The Peascod Plum.
  • The White Date.
  • The Yellow Date.
  • The White Pear Plum.
  • The Dutch Plum.
  • The Apricock Plum.
  • The White Mirabolin.
  • the Red Date.
  • the Nutmeg Plum.
  • Blew Plums.
  • the Violet Plum.
  • the Primordian.
  • the Perdrigon.
  • Greenish Plums.
  • the Damosine.
  • the Green Osterly.
  • the Green Perdrigon.30
  • the Verdoch.
  • the Peascod Plum.
Red Plums.
  • The Red Primordian.
  • The Red Muskle Plum.
  • The Cheston Plum.
  • The Kings Plum.
  • The Queen Mother Plum.
  • the Damasco Plum.
  • the Foderingham Plum.
  • the Imperial Plum.
  • the Gaunt Plum.
  • the Red Peascod Plum.
Black Plums.
  • The Morocco Plum.
  • the Barbary Plum.
  • the Black Damosine.
  • the Black Prunello.
  • the Muscle Plum.40
  • the Catalonian Plum.
  • the Pole Plum.
  • the Turkey Plum.
  • the Black Year Plum.
  • the Pruine Damson.
Several sorts of CHERIES.
  • The May Chery.
  • the Early Flanders Chery
  • the Latter Flanders Che­ry.
  • the Flanders Cluster Che­ry.
  • the Preserving Chery.
  • the Morello.
  • the Duke.
  • the Arch Duke.
  • the Carnation.
  • the Lukeward.
  • the Black Heart.
  • the White Heart.
  • the Red Heart.
  • the Black Spanish.
  • the Bleeding Heart.50
  • the Prince Royal.
  • the Portugal Chery.
  • the Kings Chery.
  • the Corone.
  • the Biquar.
  • the White Spanish.
  • the Amber.
  • the Hungarian of Zwerts.
  • the Ciliegi Birrielone.
  • the Dwarf Chery.60
  • the Black Chery of Or­leance.
Of several sorts of QVINCES.
  • the English Apple Quince.
  • the Barbery Quince.
  • the Brunswick Quince.
  • the Lions Quince.
  • the Portugal Pear Quince.
  • the Portugal Apple Quince.
Several sorts of APRICOCKS.
  • THe common sorts known to all.
  • The Algier Apricock is a small forward Fruit.
  • The Masculine Apricock also an early Fruit.
  • The Long Apricock much like the Masculine.
  • The White Apricock better than the common sort.
  • The Orang Apricock, so called from its deep co­lour.
  • The great Roman Apricock, a fair Fruit good to preserve.
Several sorts of PEACHES.

THe Nutmeg Peach is of two sorts, one white and first Ripe, the other red on the side next the Sun.

The Troy Peach, also an early Fruit, and lar­ger than the Nutmeg-Peach.

The Savoy Peach hath a fair Fruit, is early Ripe, and of a redish yellow colour.

The Modena Peach comes from the Stone, is of a yellowish colour, and excellent tasted.

The Orleance Red Peach leaves the Stone, be­ing a fine Stone.

The Morello Peach cleaves from the Stone, and is a fair redsided Fruit.

The Navar Peach cleaves from the Stone, and is of a whitish colour.

The Magdalen Peach is much of the Nature of the Navar.

The Carnation Peach is a very good Standard.

The Alberges Peach leaves the stone, and is a fair yellow Fruit.

The Violet Musk Peach is red on the out side, and yellow within.

The Persian Peach is a fair yellow Fruit, but cleaves to the Stone.

The white Monsieur is red within, and white without.

The Burdeaux Peach is a large Fruit of a dark yellow, but red at the Stone.

The Verona is a very good red Peach.

The Smyrna is a very good yellow Peach.

The Rambovillet is a good dark yellow Peach.

The Peach de Pavie is a good yellow Peach.

The Slane Peach is a good yellow large Peach.

The Fryers Peach is an excellent Fruit.

The Crown Peach is a fair Fruit.

The Newington Peach is a fair and excellent Fruit, of a greenish white, and red next the Sun.

The Billice Peach is something of the Nature of the Newington, as is the Crown Peach.

The Queens Peach is a good large Fruit, of a redish yellow colour.

The Isabellaa Peach is a very good tasted Fruit, of a fair redish yellow colour.

[Page 245] The Violet Muscat of a fine Violet colour, and is a good Fruit.

The Colrane Peach is a good red coloured Fruit.

The Roman Peach is a fair yellow coloured Fruit.

The Man Peach is an excellent tasted Fruit.

The Musk Peach is a large beautiful and good tasted fruit.

The Quince Peach so called as resembling the 10 Quince.

The Portugal Peach is a good redish coloured Peach.

The Lavar Peach is the same with the Nevar Peach.

The Peach Despot is yellow spotted with red.

The Royal Peach is a large fruit like the Queens Peach.

Several sorts of NECTORINES.20

THe Green Nectorine is of two sorts, the bigger and the lesser, which is of small e­steem.

The Yellow Nectorine is also of two sorts, the large and the small, which is the best, and com­eth from the Stone.

The White Nectorine is not much better than the great yellow.

The Paper White Nectorine is a smaller fruit 30 than the White, but better tasted.

The Painted Nectorine is of a good tast, and is full of red Spots.

The Red Roman Nectorine is a fair and well tasted fruit, of a Musky scent, and of a fine red colour on the out side.

The Red Nectorine is an excellent fruit, and leaves the Stone.

The Murrey Nectorine is of a yellowish colour, and not so good as the Roman. 40

The Tawny Nectorine is an excellent fruit, be­ing red on the out-side, and yellow within.

The Russet Nectorine is of a Brown Russet co­lour on the out-side, and red at the Stone.

The Orbine Nectorine is a well tasted fruit, be­ing red on the out-side.

All these aforesaid Nectorines and Peaches are treated of by Rea, fol. 210, and 212.

Peaches and Nectorines are more tender then Apricocks, and the fruit requires more the Sun 50 to ripen them; so that they must be Planted on the hottest Wall, that is, such that hath the most influence of the Sun.

If you suffer the middle Stem to grow upright, the side Branches will not prosper, but decay for want of Nourishment, the top drawing away the Sap. Therefore when the Tree is young bow down the Head, and so Nail it to the Wall, which will stop the Sap and cause the Tree to put forth side Branches. 60

Such Trees that are old, and decaying, cut down in March as low as convenience will allow, leaving some Branches to draw up the Sap, and cover the Wound with Clay; and the Stock will put forth new Lances, and in a Year or two come to bear fruit again very plentifully.

Of VINES, and the several sorts of GRAPES.

THe small Black Grape is first ripe, 'tis a well-tasted Fruit, and set thick on the Bunches.

The White Muscadine Grape beareth large Bun­ches of great Grapes, both of a sweet and plea­sant tast. Of this Grape there are two sorts; of which one more sweet and pleasant than the other.

The Canada Grape, or Parsley Vine. so called as having its Leaves much like those of Parsley; it is a White Grape, thinly set on Bunches, and late ripe.

The Blood-Red Grape is very good for our Clime. Of which there are several sorts; viz, the sweet Alicant or Spanish Tint Grape, the great black Orleance, which is a very harsh and restrin­gent Grape; which is usually mixt with the White Grape, to give its colour for the rough Claret.

The Red Muscadine requires much Sun, and is a large Grape.

The Raysin of the Sun Grape requirs also much Sun, and when ripe, is a Red, large, and good tasted Fruit, but hath little Juice, being very fleshy; it is excellent to preserve and pickle.

The Bursarobe Grape requires also very much Sun, otherwise it will not ripen with us: It is an excellent large white and well tasted Grape.

The Frontiniack is a white Musky sweet Grape, and requires so much Sun with us, that it seldome comes to perfection. There is also the Red Frontiniack which is much of the nature of the white.

The Muscat Grapes are very good, and great bearers, but require so much Sun that they ripen very late.

The Burlet is a very large White Grape, chief­ly fit for Vinegar, as seldome being here ripe.

There are divers other sorts of Grapes found in France, Italy, and other Countreys, which are not fit for our Climate; as indeed many of these aforesaid, so that 'tis unnecessary to repeat their Names.

Vines prosper best in a dry, gravelly, or stony Ground; the wet, stiff or clayish Soyl being not agreable to their natures; but the sandy light Soyl is the best. They affect much Sun, and delight to be sheltered from the cold Winds. Every Win­ter the Roots should be opened, and Ashes or good rotten Dung, put thereto, being well mixt with the Earth. From Christmass to the end of February is the Season to prune the Vines, as before directed; but not until they have had two Years growth. About the end of August clear the Vines from those Superfluous Leaves and Bran­ches that obstruct the ripening of the Grapes.

Vines are easily encreased by laying the new Branches in the Earth, or by Cuttings, which within a Year or two will be fit to transplant, as occasion requires; and whilst they stand unremoved, they must be yearly pruned, as the Vines.

[Page 246] Thus much may suffice concerning the plant­ing of Vines about your House and Walls. It will not be amiss, since I am entred on this Fruit, to lay down some Rules for the ordering a Vine­yard. And the rather for that it is now coming into fashion amongst the curious of our Gentrey; All which I shall set down, as received from the hands of that Honourable, worthy, and truly experi­enced Person in these, and the like affairs, Charles Howard Esquire, Brother to the late Duke of 10 Norfolk.

First, You must be provided with a dry piece of Ground, of a Chalky bottom, covered with a light Mould on the Top, but a fat sandy Soyl is best; which should be on the side of a Hill, ex­posed to the South Sun. Let the Ground be well digged, broken small, and cleared from Weeds in the Summer before Michaelmass; then from November to March, when the Weather is fair and open, plant your rooted Vines of a years 20 Root in streight Rows, at about a Yard asunder, and very shallow; yet so that the Roots be cover­ed. The first Summer do not prune them, but let them grow, only keep them clean from Weeds, and set Stakes close to each Root about a foot high, to which fasten the strongest shoot, and let the o­ther branches fall down as they will. In April, or the begining of May following, just as they begin to bud forth their Leaves, bow the top of each Vine archwise to the next Stalk, and there 30 fasten it, and from this bowed Branch will come out new Shoots, which will produce Grapes that will hang down to the Earth, which will be the sweetest. And this is all that is done to them un­til pruning time, which is from the end of Janua­ry till March; and then cut away the Branch that was tied the last year to the Stalk, and arched down as low as an Eye, but one or two at the most, and tie up another of the strongest Bran­ches for the Stock, instead of the former, prun­ing 40 away all the other Branches within an Eye or two of their Bottoms; for the fewer Branches you leave to the Root, the more Grapes you shall have the following Year.

Every Year the Ground in your Vineyard must be well diged, but not very deep, and cast the fresh Mould in the Paths to the Roots of the Vines, laying all plain and even and free from Weeds: Also in Summer you must Hoe up the Weeds, for the barer the Earth is kept in the Al­leys,50 it is the better; but about the Roots the Earth must not be stirred in Summer, nor in the bearing time; but the elder the Vineyard is, the deeper it should be diged, and turned up yearly, and old rotten Dung or Ashes should yearly in February or March be mixt with the Mould; but use not too great a quantity of Dung.

The best kinds of Vines to be planted in our Clime for a Vineyard, are the white and red Mus­cadine, and the Frontiniack. 60

When your Vines begin to decay through age, plant Young ones in their rooms; but they will continue a great while before Age decays them.

Keep the Vine-stocks about a Foot high, from whence let the Shoots yearly come forth, pruning all the Branches, except one or two of the strong­est, within an Eye or two of the head of the old Stock; but prune not close to the Stock, ex­cept such Branches that you would have to shoot again; for too many Shoots from a Stock will hurt the Root; therefore leave but a few; and the best Cuttings are from a Branch that spreads most in the midst of the Tree, and not from the lowest or highest Branch, having five or six Joynts from the old Stock.

Of the FIG-TREE.

THe Fig-Tree is of several sorts, and all most fit to be planted against the Wall, where they may have the benefit of the Sun. These following are the chief sorts.

The great blew Fig; The Dwarf blew Fig; The flowering Fig; the white dwarf Fig; the Langue­dock Fig, and the Marcelles Fig; of all which the great blew Fig is most fit for our Clymate, and is easily encreased from Suckers and by Lay­ers.

Of the SERVICE TREE.

THe common Service-Tree grows wild in many places; but there is a kind like the Hors-Chesnut, common in France, whose Fruit is much larger and better than the common sort. They are raised from the Berries which must be sown as Haws in Beds; they are also encreased by Suckers or Sets.

Of the MVLBERY-TREE.

THis Tree is of several Sorts; the Fruit or Berries being of three colours, viz. black, white and red.

The Black groweth to a large well Spread Tree, whose Fruit at first is green, and when ripe, is black.

The White Mulbery groweth not so large, is thiner set with Branches, and the Fruit is smaller, and of a sweet tast.

The Virginian Mulbery groweth to a large Tree, the Fruit is long and red, and of a pleasant tast.

The CORNELIAN CHERYTREE.

THis Tree hath its Flowers, or Blossoms small, yellow, and comes early, but the Fruit is late ripe being shaped like a small Olive; and for colour some are of a shining red, others yellow, with red Sides, and some almost white. The Fruit is chiefly used Phisically, being preser­ved.

The BARBERY-TREE.

THis is a common Tree, but there are two sorts something rare; the first hath many Branches of Berries that are without Stones, and some on the same Bush with Stones. The other differs from the common, in that the Berries are as large again, and far better for preserving. These Plants, are exceeding great encreasers from the Suckers.

The MEDLER TREE.

THis Fruit is of no great Esteem, and would be less did it not come when all others are gone. There are said to be in France, Medlers without Stones; and had we this sort, it would be of some Esteem.

The FILBEARD TREE.10

THis Tree is well received amongst all; there are three sorts, more rare than the com­mon known amongst us, viz.

The White Filbeard is the most common.

The Red Filbeard also common.

The Filbeard of Constantinople, which is much like the White, but hath its Kernel larger and better.02

The NVT TREE.

THe great round Nut which is thicker shelled and bigger than any other sort, the Kernel being as big as other Nuts, with their Shells on.

The great long Soft-shell'd Nut hath its Ker­nel as big as an Almond, and very well tasted.

All these sorts of Nuts and Filbeards are plen­tifully raised from Suckers, as well as sown of 30 the Nuts.

Goosberry Trees.

THese are common in all Gardens, and easily encreased from Suckers; the best sorts are the Yellow and White Dutch Amber. There is a sort which is a small Red Berry, of no great Esteem, but the large preserving Goosberry is of Esteem.40

Curran Trees.

THese like Goosberrys are common, and easily encreased from Suckers; the best sorts are the large Red and White. There is also a Black sort, which as yet is something rare, and indeed is like so to continue, as not being much received, only for a curiosity more than for use, as the o­thers are, which makes excellent Wine, if well 50 ordered, being of a very strong body, and lasting.

Having treated of the several sorts of Fruits, in the next Chapter I shall apply them to use; laying down some Directions for the making Wines, Cyder, Perry, &c. 60

CHAP. X.
Of the use and benefit of Fruits for the making of WINES, CYDER, PERRY, MEAD, &c.

THe Planting of Fruit Trees is without doubt one of the greatest Improvements that can be made of the most part of our Ground, the Fruit serving both for Meat and Drink, especially Apples for the making Cyder, which if well pre­pared, and rightly made of Cyder Fruits, is a most delicate Liquor, not much inferiour to Wine, and is more agreable to the Constitutions of the English Bodies.

CYDER next to Wine may justly claim the preheminence of other Liquors. There are divers ways used for the making it, and sundry sorts of Fruits of which it is made.

The Fruits most fit for this Drink, may be comprehended under two sorts, or kinds, viz. either curious Table Fruits, as Pippins, Pearmains, Codlins, and the like, or the wild, harsh, and com­mon Apples fit only for Cyder, as the Red-Streak, the White Must, the Green Must, the Gennet-Moyl, [...]liots, Summer-Fillet, Winter-Fillet, Stocken Apple &c. The greater part of which are so harsh and unsavory, that Swine will scarce eat them, yet af­fords an excellent tart and winy Liquor, far ex­ceeding the Pippin and Pearmain; and are also of so strong a Body that the Cyder will keep, be­ing well preserved, seven Years.

But there are some that prefer the Pippin, Pearmain, and the like curious Table Fruit, to make the best Cyder, as having in them a more Cordial and Pleasant Juice, than the harsh Apples.

By observation it is found, that the more Red is in the Rind of an Apple, the better it is for Cyder, and the Paler the worse; and no sweet Apple that hath a tough Rind, is bad for Cyder.

For the making of Cyder let your Apples hang on the Trees until they be throughly ripe, gather them without Bruises, and before you make Cy­der of them, lay them in heaps in convenient places, free from Rain, or Dew, where they may sweat for about a Fortnight, and the harsher and more solid the Fruit is, the longer they may ly. This Sweating takes forth their Aqueous Humidi­ty which is injurious to the Cyder.

Such Fruit that are Vnripe, Wind-falls, or any ways injured or bruised, divide from the sound, for it is better to have two sorts, the one excel­lent, and the other indifferent, than both ordi­nary. And be sure to take away all the Stalks, Leaves and Rotten Apples from either sort; for the Stalks, and Leaves will cause an ill Tast, and the Rotten Apples make it deadish.

About twenty four, or twenty five Bushels of good Cyder Apples thus sweated will make a Hogshead of Cyder, and if taken from the Tree, about twentytwo Bushels.

[Page 248] These Apples thus prepared, may be either ground in a Horse Mill, like as Tanners grind their Bark, or else beaten in a Trough with Beaters of Wood rather than Stone; and the more they are ground, or beaten, the better; but the Grinding is perferred before the Beating them.

After the Grinding, the Pulp should be put in­to a hair Bagg, or Baggs, and so put to the Press, of which there are several sorts, but the Screw-Press 10 is esteemed the best.

Being Prest, strain it, and put it into your Vessel, which must be so placed that it may stand to ferment, allowing but a small Vent-hole that the Spirits wast not; fill not the Vessel quite until it hath done working; then fill it of the same sort, which must be kept for that purpose, and stop it well, only with caution at the first, lest it break the Vessel.

The best Vessels for the Tunning up the Cyder and to preserve it, are these; the Barrel-Bords 20 strait, the Vessel broader at the one end than at the other, and to stand on the lesser end with the Bung-hole on the top; the reason is, that the drawing the Cyder through but slowly, the Skin and Cream contracted by its Fermentation, des­cends and wholly covers the Liquor by the ta­pering of the Vessel, and thereby preserves the Spirits of the Cyder to the last, which otherwise would wast and expend themselves.

Some Cyder will bear a mixture with Water,30 without injury to its preservation, and others will not; so that you ought to understand the nature of the Fruit before such a mixture is made; and be sure let it be done in the grinding, and not afterwards; for then it will better in­corporate with the Cyder.

Some are of opinion, that before you press the Cyder, after it is ground or beaten, the Liquor and Must should ferment together in a Vat for that purpose, close covered, for about twenty-four 40 hours, which is said much to enrich the Liquor.

The other sorts of Fruits for the making the Cyder, as the Pepin, Pearmain, Gillyflower, Cod­lin, and the like Summer or Table-fruits, are very good palatable Cyder for a Year, but will not last good longer, as wanting the strength of body that the others have.

In the Pressing, as also in the Grinding or Beat­ing these Fruits, the same Method is used as be­fore 50 directed; but the Cyder or Must is not to be immediately Tunned up, but should stand in the Vat at least twenty four hours, or more, accord­ing as the Apples were more or less pulpy, and must be close covered with Hair-cloths or Sacks, to hinder too much evaporation of the Spirits; nor must it be kept so close in as to cause Fer­mentation, in which time the more gross part of the Feces will precipitate or fall to the Bottom, which otherwise would have prejudiced the Cyder 60 by an over Fermentation, and have made it flat and sowre.

Then at a Tap, three or four Inches from the Bottom of the Vat, draw forth the Cyder, and Tun it up, wherein is yet a sufficient quantity of the gross Lee or Feces to Fermentation; the want of the right understanding whereof is one of the main causes of so much bad Cyder in this Kingdom.

PERRY.

PErry is a Liquor not so generally received as Cyder, nor indeed is it so grateful to the Palate.

The best Pears for this Liquor are such that are not fit to be eaten for their harshness, and therefore are commonly planted in Hedge-Rows, as the Bosbury Pear, the Horse Pear, the Bareland Pear, and the Choak Pear; and the redder they are the better they are.

Pears must be through ripe ere gathered; they must be laid on Heaps to sweat as the Apples; and for the grinding or Beating, Pressing, and Tunning them up, you must observe the same Rules as for Cyder.

Crabs and Pears ground together make a good Liquor, for the Crabs help to preserve the Perry.

Some Observations concerning Cyder and Perry.

PEarmains make but a small Cyder of them­selves.

If the Vessel be tainted, boyl an Ounce of Pepper in Water, enough to fill the Vessel, and let it stand therein two or three days.

New Vessels give the Cyder or Perry a deep Colour, and an ill Tast; therefore Wine-Cask are esteemed the best: But for want of such, put a little Mustard-seed ground with some of the Cyder into the Vessel, and it will help it.

Two or three Eggs put into a Hogs-head of Cyder that is sharp, sometimes helps it; and two or three rotten Apples put into the Cask will clarify thick Cyder. Also thick Cyder or Perry by a second Fermentation may be made good and clear; but that which is acid is seldom re­covered.

Ginger helpeth Fermentation, promoteth its duration, and gives a more brisk Spirit.

Boyl Cyder immediately after the Press, be­fore Fermentation.

The Cyder that runs from the Ground, or beaten Apples before they are in the Press, are much the best.

Fill not the Vessels quite full, that there may be room for the Cyder to gather a Head.

The mildness and temperature of the Wea­ther is of much concernment in the Fermentation of Cyder.

Wheaten-Bran cast in after Fermentation, thick­ens the Coat or Cream, and is a great preserva­tion to it.

Cyder that is in danger of being spoyled, may be preserved, or recovered by putting into a Hogs-head about a Gallon of unground Wheat, or some Mustard-seed ground in about a Pint of Cyder, or Sack, which is better.

Stone Troughs are not good to beat or grind Cyder in, because they bruise the Kernels too much, which gives an ill Tast to the Cyder. [Page 249] And after they are ground or beaten, let them stand a Day or two before they are prest, which will cause it to have a better Colour, and doth also cause it a little to ferment and maturate in the Pulp. Also after it is prest 'tis good to let the Cyder stand in a Vat covered, to ferment about twenty four Hours, before it is tunned up, and then draw it by a Tap from the Vat within a­bout two Inches from the Bottom, leaving the Feces or Dregs behind, which will not be lost,10 if you put it upon the Chaff, for then it meliorates the Pur, or Water Cyder, if you make any.

Your Cyder, or indeed Perry, being Tunned up, leave a small Vent open for some Days, un­til its windy Spirit is spent, which otherwise will break the Barrel, or find some other Vent that will always abide open, to the spoyling of the Cyder, if you find it not out and stop it.

If Cyder or Perry proves thick and sowrish, put into the Cask at the Bung-hole some Apples, 20 which will cause a new Fermentation, and very much quicken the Cyder, provided you draw it off into another Vessel within a few Days after. But if it be only a little sowrish, or drawn off in another Vessel, the way to correct or preserve it, is to put about a Gallon of Blanched-Wheat into a Hogshead, and so according to that proportion into a greater or lesser Vessel.

Mixture of Fruits makes good Cyder or Perry, provided they be of an equal ripeness, and well 30 picked from rotten ones, as also from Leaves, Stalks, or the like.

The best way to preserve Cyder long, is to Bottle it; in doing which observe these Directions; You may Bottle it in two or three Days after it is well setled, and before it hath throughly fer­mented; or you may Bottle it in March follow­ing, which by the curious is adjudged the best time. After it has been botled a Week, provided it be new, put into each Bottle a Piece of fine Loaf-Sugar,40 as big as a Nutmeg, which will make it brisk; but if you Bottle it not till March, then you may put in the Sugar at the time of the Bot­ling. Your great care is required in the well Cork­ing them, for if they take vent your Cyder or Pery (and indeed any sort of Liquor whatsoever) will be dead, and by consequence spoyled. There­fore chuse your soft spungy Corks, that will swell, and to prevent their flying tye them about the Neck of the Bottle with Pack-thread.50

In Summer you may keep them in cold Foun­tains, or in your Cellers covered over with Sand, and in Winter to prevent their breaking with the Frost, cover them with Straw, and by this good ordering them you may keep them many Years, provided the Fruit be good, and of a strong Body.

Of Wines made of the Juice of Fruits.60

CHerries make a fine, cool and pleasant Drink for the Summer Season, but being of no strong Body, will not keep long; yet the Morello Cherry will keep, and for Brandy this doth far ex­ceed the Black Cherry, being of a curious Tast and a great Cordial; for the making this Wine gather such Cherries that are ripe, and not rotten or bruis­ed, and press them in a Hair Cloth as your Apples, or Pears, after their grinding or Beating. Let the Liquor stand in the Vat to settle, and then draw it off into Bottles, which must be ordered as for Cyder and Perry, and well stopt with good Corks.

PLVMS make a good Wine, but not so brisk and fine as the Cherries; the Black Pear-Plum is the best.

MVLBERRIES make a rich, and high co­loured Wine, and of a strong Body; It is very good to put to small or pale Wines to add a Tincture.

RARSBERRIES is an excellent pleasant Wine; and if mixt with other Liquors, adds an excellent high Flavour and Gust unto them. The usual way to make this Wine, is to boyl up the Juice with Sugar, and put it up in Bottles. Of this Juice two or three Spoonfuls are sufficient, to put into a Bottle of Claret, which will give it the Gust of Rarsberry Wine.

GOOSBERRIES extracted in their due time, being neither too ripe nor too green, and mixt with Water and Sugar, make a palatable Wine; it is usually made without boyling, be­cause that contracts a brown Colour, and Water is added to it, to mitigate the strength. After prepare it thus; Let the Goosberries be bruised, but not too much, which force from the Pulp through a Hair-cloth: The Juice that comes out put into an Earthen Pot, the which let stand for four or five days to settle, then draw it clear off into Bottles, putting to each Bottle two Ounces of fine Sugar, and so Bottle it up.

CVRRANS are also a strong Wine; It is to be mixt with some Water and Sugar, and is best to be boyled; when it is well setled, let it be put up into Bottles, and well Corked.

QVINCES make a strong and excellent Wine, which is thus made; Slice them, then press them in a Hair-cloth; the Juice must stand in a Vat, or Vessel, to settle as the other Li­quors, before it is Botled up. If Sugar, and some Aromatick Spices were put in, it would much add to the pleasantness of the Tast.

MEAD or METHEGLIN being right­ly ordered, is an excellent Liquor, the pureness and whiteness of the Honey is the chief cause of its clearness. It is made several ways.

I shall give you Instructions for the making it two or three ways, which are adjudged the best.

Take one part of Clarified Honey, and eight parts of pure clear running or Spring Water (but for weak Mead a far less quantity of Honey,) boyl them well together in a Copper or other Vessel, untill good part be consumed; then take it off the Fire, and when it is almost cold Tun it up, and it will work of it self; Then so soon as it has done working, stop up the Vessel very close, and if you have conveniency, bury it under Ground for about two Months; if not, keep it in a low place, and this will take away the tast and smell of the Honey and Wax, and give it a Flavour like Wine.

If you would have it of an Aromatick Tast, to about 12 Gallons you may add these Ingre­dients, viz. Flowers of Rosemary, and Margerom, of each a small Handful; a Handful of Mother [Page 250] of Thime, one Ounce of Nutmegs and Cloves, ½ an Ounce of Cinamon, and of Ginger, and Car­dimum of each two Drams; slice the Nutmegs, and Ginger, and bruise the Cloves.

Another way is, To twelve Gallons of scum'd Must or Liquor, as aforesaid, take one Ounce of Ginger, ½ Ounce of Cinamon, of Cloves, and Pepper of each two Drams; let all these be gross beaten, the one half sowed in a Bag, and the o­ther loose; and let them boyl in the Liquor a­bout 10 half an Hour.

Some mix their Honey and Water until it will bear an Egg, by which rule you may make it stronger or weaker at your pleasure.

Another way is, To sixteen Gallons of Must take one Ounce of Thime, one Ounce of Eglantine, ½ an Ounce of Margerom, and as much of Rose­mary; 2 Ounces of Ginger, one Ounce of Ci­namon, and of Cloves and Pepper of each ½ an Ounce, all gross beaten; of these Ingredients let 20 the one half be boyled in a Bag, and the other loose, as aforesaid.

Another way, To about eight Gallons of Wa­ter, and one Gallon of Honey, as aforesaid, add three or four li. of Reasons of the Sun, stoned, without any other Ingredients or Spices.

Note that all Green Herbs are apt to make the Metheglin or Mead flat or dead, and the Cloves make it high coloured. The scumming it in the boyling is injurious, for that being of 30 the nature of Yest, helps it to Ferment and pu­rify; but tis customary with most to take off the Scum in the boyling, and for setting it to work, to use Yest, which is not so good.

CHAP. XI.40
Of the Benefit by Raising and planting of Timber-Trees, and other Trees useful for Building, Fewel, and other Mechanick Vses.

MAny and considerable are the advantages 50 by Wood and Trees, for 'tis experimen­tally known that an Acre of Mountainous and barren Ground not worth cultivating, being planted with Trees, and Coppices, will be worth an Acre of indifferent good Ground well Hus­banded; Also it improves and meliorates Ground, if cleared and ploughed: And Trees being planted in Hedg-rows are very commodious to keep off cold Winter Blasts that nip the Corn, and pinch the Cattle; and also qualifie the dry 60 Winds and parching Heat of the Summer. It al­so affords Timber for the building and reedify­ing of Houses, and Out-houses; as also for the making of Carts, Ploughs, and other Utensils, together with a supply of Fewel, so deficient in many Champain Countreys.

And besides these, and many more Advan­tages, nothing can render a Seat m [...]re delectable than when situate amongst pleasant Trees and Groves, without which it lieth unpleasant, and naked, as being exposed to the Winds, and Weather.

There are several Sorts of Trees, very useful and profitable, as well as ornamental; most of which I shall treat of: And first with Timber-Trees.

TIMBER-TREES.

THe Trees reckoned for Timber are the Oak, the Elm, Ash, Beech, Walnut, and Ches­nut.

The Oak hath the preheminence of all others, for its strength and Durableness; and for that reason is made use of for building of Ships, for which the English Oak excels all other Na­tions. It is a Tree that will grow and prosper in any sort of Land, either good or bad, as on Clayey, Sandy, or Gravelly Ground, whether dry or moist, warm or cold; but that which is most agreable, is the black, deep and fast Mold, and rather dry, and on a rising Ground, than low and moist. They will also grow on hilly and stony Ground, though but slowly.

For the Propagation you may sow Acorns in Beds well dug and prepared; the Season for which is soon after they are full ripe; for they must not lye long after they are gathered, for the withering Spoyls them. The Spring following they will come up and be fit to transplant into your Nursery at convenient Distances, until they are fit to plant into your Grounds: But it is, and hath been the common Opinion, especially a­mongst the Countrey People, whose Custom is to follow their Predecessors Foot-steps, right or wrong that the Oak of all other Trees will not grow, if set; but 'tis a vulgar Error, for they will grow and thrive as well as any other sorts of Trees, as hath experimentally been found, not only by those raised from the Acorn, as aforesaid, but also by Sets drawn up in Hedg-rows, or o­ther places, and transplanted; but these prove generally crooked, so that you should cut off the Shoot close to the Ground when you plant it, and in the place thereof will shoot up ano­ther that will grow streight.

Besides the great benefit by the Wood for Buil­dings, Pails, Rayls, Mills, Sluces, &c. enduring both wet and dry, Wind and all Weathers, it is of such use, that Tanners cannot dress their Lea­ther without the Bark; likewise the Mast, that is, the Acorns, are of great advantage for the fatning of Swine, and that Bacon so fed (especi­ally if they are fed with Pease some time after) is of a delicate sweet Tast; and if salted with Salt-Peter instead of Bay-Salt, will be little in­ferior to the Westphalia Bacon, so highly esteem­ed. Acorns are also very good feed for Ra­bets.

The Elm is a Tree easily propagated, grow­ing in most sorts of Ground; but it most delights in light, loose, and moist Land, and on the Banks of such level, and fertile Grounds, whether gravelly or chalky, it prospers well.

[Page 251] This Tree is raised from Suckers, which shoot from the Roots in great plenty, which may be slipped off, and transplanted; or if the Roots of an Elm, that is felled, be cut into pieces, and put into Earth, they will send forth Suck­ers.

It is a Tree very fit for Avenues, or Walks, by reason of its growing so streight, upright and high, over-topping all others, as also so near to­gether; and is of that flexibleness that it may be 10 brought to grow in any Shape.

If it is felled between November and February, it will be all heart, or Spine, having little or no Sap; and is of great use for making all things that lie always wet, or always dry.

The ASH is a quick growing Tree, thriving in any sort of barren, montainous and dry Ground, but not so well for Timber, as in Coppice-Woods, nor will it thrive so well as on good Ground, or such that is of a chalky, and white 20 Soyl.

'Tis raised from the Seed, or Keys, which must be gathered when they begin to fall about October, and so sown in Beds, as you do your Acorns or Haws, and the next Spring come Twelve-Month they will appear, and thrive very well; but they must be removed, and set thinner whilst they are small, by reason of their speedy deep rooting. You must not cut off the Tops of the young small Ashes, by reason it is a sappy 30 Plant; but for the greater Sets it is good to cut them near the Ground, for then they will send forth new Shoots that will be better and larger. You may also have Plants drawn by those that draw Quick-setts, which will prove very good; but not like unto those that are raised in a Nur­sery, as aforesaid.

If you would raise these Trees on Hills or o­pen Grounds, the best way is to sow the Seeds in the place, either before, or after the Plough; 40 and if in Coppices, or in such places where the Plough cannot pass, then to prick in amongst the Ridges of Hasel, or the like shruby stuff, which will defend it from Cattle until the Trees are grown up.

The Season for setting the Ash for use, is from November to February; for if the Sap be but a little in the Tree the Worm takes it, and soon Spoils the Wood.

The Ash is a speedy grower, and is of gene­ral 50 use for Carpenters, Joyners, Wheelrights, Coop­ers, Turners, and other Artificers, and is also much used by Gardiners for Arbours, Palisado-Hedges, Hop-poles, &c. and for firing no Wood is comparable to it, either green or dry.

The BEECH delights to grow in gravelly, stony, sandy and warm Ground; and on the sides and Tops of high Hills, and chalky Moun­tains.

This Tree will grow to a great bigness, and is 60 raised from the Mast, as the Oak; as also from young Plants drawn up, and Planted as before directed; for the Oak, whilst it is very young it grows but slowly, but when it is gotten out of the way, no Tree thrives better; and although it be crooked, knotty and ill shapen, whilst it is young, yet it will be otherwise when it comes to its full growth.

It is a Wood of a fine, clean and white Grain, and not apt to slit or rend, which occasions it to be so much used by Turners, Joyners, Vphol­sterers, and the like Handy-crafts. The Mast is very good and sweet Feed for Swine, Deer, Pheasants, &c.

The WALNVT-TREE is a Wood of a fine Grain, and of a curious brown Colour, being of excel­lent use for curious Works, and therefore much used by the Cabinet-makers, Gun-smiths, and such like Artificers. It delights in a good deep Mould, and is raised from the Nut, as before directed in the Chapter of Fruit-trees.

The CHESNVT delights in a light Ground, or in a moist Gravel, but will grow in any Soyl; It is also raised by the Nut as the Wal-nut: it is a durable Wood for Building, and its Fruit is good for the Table, especially roasted in the Embers; and is esteedmed excellent for the Fatning of Swine.

Of Trees for Fewel, and other uses.

THe BIRCH is a Tree that will grow and thrive in any place, as well on the hot Gra­velly and sandy Ground, as on the cold, wet, and moorish. Tis raised from Suckers, planted at convenient distances, five or sixe Foot asunder, which soon will grow up to Trees. After the first Year they should be cut within an Inch of the Ground, which will cause them to shoot out the stronger.

The Wood is useful for Turners, and makes good Charcoal.

This Tree yields the best Sap, and most in quantity of any in the Kingdom, which being prepared, either with Sugar or Honey, makes a pleasant Liquor, which now bears the name of Birch-Wine. It is thus to be drawn from the Trees; Cut off some of the small Branches, and hang Bottles with the ends of the Branches so cut put into their months, into which the Christallin Liquor will distil. You may also bore a Hole in­to the Body of the Tree, putting therein a Tap, to which hang a Bottle to receive the said Liquor. And by either of these ways good quan­tities thereof may be extracted in the Months of February and March when the Sap ascends, and before the Spring of the Leaf. It will run best when the Sun shines warm, or when the Wind is South, or West. This Liquor thus extracted, and well prepared, makes a very good and palate­able Wine.

The MAPLE delights most in a sound and dry Soyl, either in Woods or Hedgrows. It is raised from the Keys, as the Ash. The Wood is very good for Turners and Joyners, being of a fine, light, and white Grain.

The QVICK-BEAM delights in a light Ground, in Mountains and Woods. 'Tis a quick growing Wood, of chief use for Fewel, and is raised from the Setts; or the Berrys, which when [...]ipe, may be sown.

The HORN-BEAM agrees best with Barren, cold and hilly Grounds; 'tis to be raised by Sets, which when set, must be cut within half a Foot of the Ground, and from the Seds sown [Page 252] in October, which are ripe in August. It is a very hard Wood, and fit for Mill-wrights. If plan­ted at about a Foot or eighteen Inches asunder in a single Row, it makes a fine Hedge, for it grows tall, with Leaves to the Foot of the Stems.

The HASEL groweth in any kind of Ground, and chiefly in Coppices; tis raised from the Nut, or from Sets, as the Filbeard, and is of principal use for Fewel.10

Of Aquaticks, or Trees growing in wa­tery places.

THe POPLAR thrives best on the Banks of Rivers, or Ditches, but not in the Wa­ter, as the Willow; 'Tis raised from the Branches cut off, and thrust into the Ground; but cut not off the Top, until they have stood two or 20 three Years, and then they may be headed at eight, ten, fifteen, or twenty Foot high; or you may let them run up without topping, which is more ornamental, but not so profitable. They may be planted at three or four Foot asunder, and will grow very well.

The Wood is good for Turners, as well as for Fewel, being very profitable, and a great grow­er.

The ASPEN TREE little differs from 30 the Poplar; only it will grow in dry places, and not in wet; it is raised by Suckers, and must be ordered as the Poplar, not cutting off the Head, the first or second Year.

The ABELE TREE is a kind of white Poplar, but of a finer Grain, 'tis raised of Slips from the Roots, as also from Layers, and Cut­ings; 'tis a speedy grower, and therefore very profitable to Plant.

The WILLOW delights in wet and moorish 40 Grounds, being commonly set on the Sides of Ditches, or Rivers to receive the benefit of the Water to nourish them. They are raised of Sets, or Lopings, the greatest care being to choose those that are smooth, and of a fine green, which shews them to be kindly, and free from the Canker. They are to be cut Taperwise, at the lower part, which is to be thrust into the Ground, a deep Hole being made in the Ground by an Iron Crow, and the Set being thrust down therein, great care 50 must be that the Earth is well closed about it, otherwise it will not draw root so well; and also be careful that you raise not the Bark, or Rind, from the Wood. Your Sets being thus ordered, let them be busht about to be preserved from the rubing of Cattle, to loosen them for two or three Years, and afterwards they are past all danger: You must also keep them clean from Suckers, which draw away the Sap that should ascend to the Branches for their nourishment, and at 60 four or five Years of Age the Heads should be Lopped, which will make them grow the bet­ter.

The Willow is of great profit, and useful for divers occasions, besides for Fewel; so that 'tis ob­served that a Willow will buy a Horse, before an Oak will buy a Saddle.

The WITHY is a larg Tree, and should be planted on high Banks, by reason their Roots run very deep in the Earth.

The SALLY is a very quick grower, and delights in Moorish Grounds, as the Wil­low.

The OSIER requirs constant Moisture, and therefore must be planted in such places that are subject to frequent overflowings. They are rais­ed from the Shoots or Sets that should be cut a­bout February, and thrust into the Ground, much after the way as the Willow-Sets. They are very profitable and used by Basket-makers, Gardiners, &c. an Acre being esteemed to be worth as much as an Acre of Wheat.

Of TREES for FENCING.

FEncing and enclosing of Ground being of such great benefit as already hath been dis­coursed, it will be necessary to treat of such Trees as are requisite for the same, with Directions how to raise, and order them; and first of the White-Thorn.

The WHITE-THORN is esteemed the best for Fencing, being a strong and durable Hedge; 'tis to be raised from Plants, or by sowing the Haws in Beds dug and prepared, as before dire­cted, and from thence (when sprung up) to be Transplanted, which is the surest and best way; for the Garden-Quick (being that which is sowen) is esteemed far before the Plants drawn up in Hedg-rows and Fields, and will thrive much be­ter, as being young and not stunted. The best way to set your Quick sets is on the flat, the Ground being well dug and finely ordered, and let the Bor­dure consist of three Rows, and your Sets plan­ted at about nine Inches distance, which will make a stout Hedge; If you are not well sto­red with Quick sets, two Rows may serve. Be sure to keep the Bordure clean weeded, and ho­ed, which is a great furtherance to their grow­ing; otherwise they will be choaked up. After two Seasons you may cut them, which will cause them to shoot out the better, and thicker; and if the Season is dry, forget not to water them, which is a great preserver. And lastly provision, must be made to preserve them from the Injuries of Cattle, by raising Fences on each side, if it so requires. The common way to plant Quick is on the Bank, and a Hedge on the Top, which is not so good, for these reasons; First, being on the dry Bank the Sun hath more power, and so siccicates the Earth, that there is not that Mois­ture to nourish the Quick, as that planted on the Flat. Secondly, The Bank being shelving, that Rain in the Summer Season that should refresh it, falleth away into the Ditch; and Thirdly, In the Winter Season, which generally is wet, the Drippings that fall from the Hedge planted on the Top of the Bank, do kill it; And these are the Reasons why there is so many Gawls in those Hedges, which are not to be seen in those planted on the Flat.

The BLACK-THORN is a good Fence, and raised as the White-Thorn.

The HOLLY, for sight, ornament and de­fence, [Page 253] is by many preferred; before the White-Thorn, being always green, and so thick that it is not to be seen through; the only fault is, 'tis very slow in growing. It is raised of the Ber­ries, and of Sets, as the White-Thorn; but the Sets are more difficult to grow, unless they are planted late in the Spring, and well watered.

The PYRACANTHA is an excellent Fence, having strong prickly Branches, and the Leaves are always green. It is quick of growth, and 10 easie to be raised, either from the bright Coralline-Berries, which hang most part of the Winter on the Trees, or from Suckers or Slips. The Ber­ries lye in the Ground as long as those of the White-Thorn.

The ELDER makes a good Fence for a Shelter, but not for Security, as not being so thick: the Cuttings set will grow, being kept wa­tered.

The FVRZES, called Devonshire Furzes, 20 make a stout Fence, and so strong, that nothing can enter it. The best way for raising this Fence, is to dig the Ground where you intend your Fence, and sow the Seed in Rows, made with a Rill-Plough, or with a Hoe; three or four Rows are sufficient. This will grow upon a dry Bank, and be far better than any dead Hedge.

If you have any barren Ground, not worth Plowing and Sowing, it is good Improvement to Plow and Sow it with Furz-seed for Fewelling,30 as for Brewing, Baking, or the like uses.

All these sorts of Hedges are to be ordered and kept, as before directed for the White-Thorn.

Of Trees for Ornament of Gardens, Ave­nues, Parks, and the like.

THe LIME is of all Trees the most beau­tiful 40 for Walks, and most uniform both as to its height and spreading Branches; and if set near together, affords a pleasant dark Shade; Its Blossoms in June and July are very fragrant and pleasing to the Scent.

It delights in a good rich and deep Soil: 'Tis raised from Seeds or Berries that drop from the Trees in Autumn, as also from Suckers, as the Elm-Tree is.

For the greater Ornament they are Cut or 50 Headed at about eight Foot high, that thereby all the Trees may be of an equal Height; but it suf­fered to mount up without checking, they will become very tall in a short time, being quick growers.

The SYCAMORE is a Tree that delights in any indifferent or light Ground, but rather in a moist than dry. It is raised of the Keys, and sown in Autumn, when they fall from the Trees, which will come up the next Spring, being of a 60 speedy growth. Also Sets out from the Trees will grow, if set in moist Ground, and kept wa­tered.

The FIR, PINE, PINASTER, and PITCH-TREE, delights in cold, high, and rocky Mountains; but Ground that is hot, dry, and sandy, is not good; they are raised of the Kernels taken out of the Clogs, which being laid in Water some Days, and then laid before some gentle Fire, will open so that you may get out the Seeds, which must be sown in Beds, as before directed for other sorts.

The Fir may be raised from Slips, it groweth lofty and streight; but the Pinaster bears the proudest and stateliest Branches, and hath a fairer and more beautiful Leaf.

Out of these Trees are made Turpentine, Rosin, Pitch, and Tar,

The HORSE-CHES NVT prospers well in England, delighting in Ground that is not too dry; the best is a rich Garden-Mould. It is a quick grower, being raised by Layers, and affords a pleasant sight in the Spring, when its Turpen­tine Buds put forth into curious Leaves, and bears a Cluster of fine Flowers.

The LOCVS, LARCH, and PLANTA­NVS, are not in much esteem amongst us; but afford an excellent Shade.

The CYPRESS is a curious Tree, and de­lights most in a warm and dry Ground. It is raised from the Seed, sown in March, and well endures removing, and may be brought to grow in any fashion, either Pyramidal, which is the usual way, or in Hedges kept clipt.

The CAEDAR is a Tree not common amongst us, but grows in great plenty in America. It is raised of the Seeds, and may grow in our Cli­mate, being a beautiful Tree.

The EVGH-TREE is an Ever-green, most commonly growing in Church-yards. 'Tis raised from the Seeds sown in Beds, which will not come up till the second Year. It is also raised of Suckers or Plants, but is difficult to grow. The Wood is very hard, and fit for divers curious Works.

The BAY-TREE delights to grow best in the Shade, like unto the Lawrel; yet it will grow in most Places and Soils. It is raised from Seeds, Suckers, Sets, or Layers, as the Law­rel.

The PRIVET hath been formerly more used than at present for Hedges between Walks, as also for Arbors, being an Ever-green.

The PHILLYREA is a beautiful Plant, always in its Verdure, and now much used in Hedges, Arbors, or the like, instead of Privet: It delights in a warm fertil Soyl; 'tis a very quick grower, and may be raised of the Seeds or Berries, sown in the Spring; as also of the Slips, set like the Slips of Box.

The ALATERNVS prospers well in this Kingdom; It is very beautiful and useful for Hedges and Arbors, being green, with an early Blossom. 'Tis raised from Seeds, and is a swift grower.

Certain Rules to be observed for the better rasing the aforesaid Trees in way of Nur­sery.

ALthough Trees may be raised by Suckers, Sets, Slips, and the like, yet the best and surest way is from the Seed; for they take Root [Page 254] soonest, and thrive far faster, which is contrary to most Fruit-Trees, and make the streightest and fairest Trees.

The best time for sowing your Seeds is in the Spring, for then neither the Coldness of the Winter, nor the Mice and other Vermin will pre­judice them; and for the better preserving them from drying, rotting or decaying, you may put them into Pots or Vessels, with a mixture of Earth or Sand not too dry, and at the Spring you 10 will find them sprouted, and be as forward as if sown in Autumn.

The Masts, or Seeds that you design to sow should be taken from good thriving Trees, with sound Stocks; also the Seed should be weighty, clean, and bright.

The Ground for your Nursery should be well fenced in, and sheltered from the North and East Winds, and of a Soyl something dry; for Trees will better thrive, being removed out of dry into 20 moist Ground, than out of moist into dry. The Ground must be well dug, and brought to a fine mellow Mould, and clear from Weeds. Being thus prepared, sow your Seeds in small Furrows or Trenches, about five Inches deep, and about two Foot broad, with a convenient distance be­twixt, for the better wedding and dressing the young Sets, and cover them over with Earth with a Garden-Rake, and let every sort of Seed be sown apart.30

The place where you sow your Firs, Cypresses, Pines, and other tender Winter-Greens, should be sheltered from the cold Winds, and such Seeds should not be sown above an Inch deep, and finely covered over with sifted Mould; and for the more convenient removal of the Pine, you may set two or three Seeds in an Earthen Pot without a Bottom, filled with rich Mould, set­ting them into the Ground up to the Brims. When they grow, leave only one, which in two 40 or three Years growth may be removed without hazard, and in time the Plant will rid it self of the Pot.

These young Plants must be carefully kept from Weeds, and in a dry Season water them. In the cold Winter Season you may lay over them some Bushes or Furzes, with Straw scattered over to preserve them from the cold Winds.

For the raising a Coppice from Masts or Seeds, let the Ground be well Ploughed, as if for Corn, and sow it with Winter Corn, mixt with your 50 Mast, Nuts, Berries, and Seeds that you intend to sow; Let the Corn be reaped high, for the Stubble is a great preservative of the young Shoots in the Winter, and so lay it up for a Coppice, fencing it about that Cattle annoy it not.

Concerning Transplanting Trees.

THe best Season for Transplanting of Trees, 60 is soon after the Fall of the Leaf; but they may be removed any time after in open Weather, until February.

Cut not off the Tops of the Ash, Lyme, Syca­more, and the like Trees that are pithy, the first Year of their removal, because the Wet will be apt to perish them; neither cut off the Heads, not too many of the Branches or Roots of the Firs, Pines, or the like Trees, by reason of their aptness to spend their Gum, which is very injurious to them.

In the transplanting of the Suckers Cions, Layers or Slips of the Lime, Elm, Horse-Chesnut, Birch and such like Trees so propagated, you are to observe the same Season, and Method as you do in the removal of the young Seedlings of the other Trees; only that for the sliping or lay­ing of such Branches of Trees that had not be­fore taken any Wet, the best time is in the Top of the Spring, when the Sap is newly risen, and the Trees ready to Bud.

All Ever-Greens are to be removed in the Spring, for the Cold would kill them before they come to draw Root.

All Aquaticks, as the Willow, Poplar, Osier, Al­der, Aspen, Withy; and the like, that are raised of Sets, are to be planted in the Months of January and February.

In transplanting be careful to preserve the smallest Roots that gather the Sap, and in filling the Earth about the Roots keep them to a Level, with Earth between them; for the well setling these Roots conduceth much to the thriving of the Tree; and leave as much of the Root as you can, cuting only the Top-Root, or down right Roots, spreading the rest every way, that they may the better get nourishment for the Tree.

Plant not too deep, nor below the good Earth into Gravel, Clay, Sand, Water, or the like, but rather very shallow, and raise up the Earth about the Trees in Hillocks, and as near as you can transplant into better Mould, as be­fore directed; and the Holes ought to be made larger and deeper than the Tree riquires, to the end it may be filled up with loose Earth, which is better for the young Roots to Earth in.

In the setting your Trees, you ought to ob­serve a Distance answerable to the sort of Trees, as the Oak, Walnut, and such like spreading Trees should be planted at greater distances, at least forty Foot asunder. The Chesnut, Ash, Beech, Fir, &c. may stand something nearer, and the Elm, Hornbeam, as also the Aquaticks, will grow very near, even to touch one another.

If you water your Trees soon after their Trans­planting, it conduceth much to their growing, setling the Earth about the Roots, except it be in an extream cold Season, and the Plant of a ten­der kind; however be not wanting of watering any Sort in a dry Season the first Summer after their planting. And if the Trees have been car­ried far, and kept long out of the Ground, al­though bound about the Roots with Straw Fern, Mat, or the like, as is usual; the best way to revive them is to lay them in Water some time before their Planting.

For the preservation of your Trees from Cat­tle it is convenient to Fence them about with Bushes, Boards, Rails or the like, with a Stake for keeping the Tree fixt, that the Wind may not loosen it at the Root; and when you fasten the Tree to the Stalk, fix some Moss, Hay, or the like to preserve it from gauling.

[Page 255] For the better preserving of your young Trees from the heat of the Summer or of the Winter, lay about the Roots Fern, Mushy Straw, Hay or the like; also Stones are very good for the same purpose, and keep the Trees fast at the Roots from shaking with the Wind.

Of Pruning, Cutting, Shrouding and Fel­ling of Trees and Coppices.10

Pruning of Trees is the taking off all Super­fluous, and dead Branches, which is a great be­nefit to the Tree; for the doing of which the best Season is in (and about) January, and rather whilst the Trees and Young, than otherwise; this is to be performed with a Sharp Bill, or Ax, making your Strokes upwards, to prevent the slit­ting of the Tree, or Bark, at the fall of the Branch, and be sure cut it off clean, smooth, and close; 20 for by cutting it otherwise the Stump rotting, will leave a hollow Hole which will decay the Tree.

Those Trees not fit for Timber, but such that are designed for present use, for Fewel, &c. may be Lopped, or Shrouded at convenient sea­sons.

The harder Woods may be Lopped at any time during the Winter season, but the Elm, the Ash, and such like Pithy and soft Woods, are 30 best to be Lopped in the beginning of the Spring, least the Winter Injure the Tree; and it is not good, to Lop them too often; once in ten, or twelve Years being sufficient; and for preser­ving the Trees from decaying, cut the remaining Stumps aslope, and smooth, as before directed, that they may cast off the Water which rots them.

Take not off the Head of any Aquatick, (be­fore Unlopped) growing upright and smooth af­ter 40 they are about the bigness of a Mans Leg, unless you have some Collateral Shoots to draw up the Sap; for it will endanger the Tree.

These Aquaticks may be Cut, or Lopped every four or five Years, but cut them not too near the main Stock, which oft times occasions the dy­ing of the Tree; especially if too great Lops; also it hinders new Shoots. You may Lop them in February, or the beginning of March, if designed for Sets, otherwise in the Winter before the Sap 50 begins to rise.

The Growth of Coppices is various, according to the Nature of the Ground, so that no prefixt time can be set for the time of their standing be­twixt Felling and Felling, for in some Grounds the Wood will be at a good growth at nine Years; in others at ten, eleven or twelve; whereas in o­thers not until fifteen or more, so that the bigness of the Wood must be your direction, which when grown to an indifferent size, should be fel­led,60 for after that it will not grow so fast as at the first.

The Season for falling Coppices is from Mid-September to Mid-March, and let no Carts and Horses come into the Wood after March, for fear of breaking, or bruising the young Cions; and al­so let your Woods be fenced and preserved from Cattle cropping the young Shoots in the Spring, which is a very great injury; for it will Stunt them. Cut not above half a Foot from the Ground, and slopewise, triming up such as you spare for Stand­ards, which may be left at the discretion of an understanding Wood-Man.

If any Coppice hath been neglected and receiv­ed injury by the browzing of Cattle, or the like, so that you perceive the Wood to be stunted, the best way is to fell it down, for let it stand never so long it will not thrive; and after the felling by due care and well ordering, it will thrive as well as any other.

For the Felling of Timber-Trees you should consider if they are of full growth; for after that it is ill Husbandry to let them stand, but for the preservation of the growth, and encrease thereof for future Ages, it is good Husbandry to plant two young ones for every one felled. Next, the time of year is to be considered; for if you design your Timber for Sale, then the best time for Oaks is from Mid-April to Midsummer, the Sap being then up, so that the Bark will run, which is considerable advantage, being bought up by Tanners: And if I am not mistaken there is a Statute prohibiting the felling of Oaks but at such a Season when the Bark will run, but for all Timbers Trees the Winter season whilst the Sap is down is best.

If you would have Oaken Timber for your own use, then fell it in December, or January, at which time it is clearest of Sap, so that it will not be so much subject to the Worm, neither will it cast, twine, or rift, as if cut in the Summer, and it will also last longer in any Building, and not be so apt to yeild under a burthen, for the more Sap is in it, the sooner will it rot and decay.

Fell your Timber Trees not in the increase not full of the Moon, nor in windy Weather, for that oft times Spoyls the Tree.

If you design to reserve the Roots in the Earth, for a new encrease of Suckers, then fell the Tree as near the Earth as you can, for that is the best Timber; otherwise grub up all the Roots.

CHAP. XII.
Of the several sorts of Beasts, Fowls, and Insects, necessary to be kept, and the great Benefit accruing thereby.

THe Country Mans chief Benefit consists in the well stocking his Grounds, with Cattle, Fowls, and Insects; I shall in this Chapter, take Notice of those of most use and profit, omitting the Horse (which may justly claim, Preheminence of of all others,) as having already treated thereof, more at large in the Treatise of Horsmanship, and shall therefore begin with the Ox, and Cow;

[Page 256] The best Cows and Oxen are bred in the Coun­ties of York, Darby, Lancaster, Stafford, Lincoln, Glocester, and Somerset, both for largness and neatness of shape. Those bred in York-shire, Darby-shire, Lancashire, and Stafford-shire are generally black, with large well spread Horns; Those bred in Lincoln-shire are for the most part pide, very tall and large, and most fit for labour; Those bred in Somerset-shire, and Glocester-shire, are generally red, and for Shape much like those of Lincon-shire; 10 Wilt-shire breeds large Cattle, but ill Shaped Hornes and Heads. Now for the breeding of Store-Cattle, 'tis not good to mix those that are Red with the Black ones, for their Shapes and Colours are so contrary, that their Issue will be very uncomely to the Eye.

Now for as much as the Males of all Crea­tures are the principal in the Breed and Genera­tion, therefore great care ought to be taken in the choise of the Bull, which for a curious Shape 20 should be as followeth; He should be of a quick and sharp Countenance, his Horns the larger the better, his Neck fleshy, with a broad and curled Forehead, his Ears rough within, with Hair like Velvet, his Eyes black and large, his Muzel large and broad at the upper Lip, but narrow and small at the neather, his Nostrils wide and open, his Dew lap extending from his nether Lip down to his Fore-booths large, thin and hairy, his Shoul­ders large, broad and deep, his Breast rough and 30 big, his Back strait and flat, even to the setting on of his Tayl, which should stand high, of a good Length and bush-haired; his Ribs broad and wide, his Belly long and large, his Huckle-bones round, making his Buttocks Square, his Thighs round and well trust, his Legs strait and short joynted, his Knees round and big, and his Hooves long and hollow. And having a Bull with these good Shapes, or as many of them as you can, you need not doubt of a good Breed,40 provided your Cows are tolerable good.

COWS.

The COW should be chosen of the same Countrey as the Bull, and as near as you can of the same Colour, only her Vdder should be white, with four Tetts and no more, and not fleshy, but large and lank, and such a one will prove good to the Pail; her Belly should be 50 round and large, her Fore-head broad and smooth, with well spread Horns. The Cow affords great profit, as well for the Darie, as for Breed to those that have good store of Ground, and Fod­der; for there is no greater profit to be made than by Cows, either in raising and breeding them up, or by buying them when in Calf, and selling them with their Calf by their sides, especially near London.

The Dutch Cows are very good for the Pail, 60 giving as much as two ordinary English ones, be­ing a large sort, much like an Ox, but ill shaped Heads and Horns; they commonly bring two Calves at a time.

The Red Cows Milk is esteemed the best, but the Black ones brings the best Calves. The youn­ger the Cow, the better for Breed. That Cow that giveth Milk longest, is best both for the Dary, and for Breed; for those that go long dry are not so teeming.

CALVES may be bread these too ways; The one to let them run with their Dams all the Year, which maketh the best Calves, but is not so profitable, as losing the Cows Milk; The o­ther to take them from their Dams after ten or twelve Weeks; but for a Fortnight before you wean them, let them have some Water put into Milk luke-warm to drink; then they are fit, if in the Spring or Summer season to put out to Grass, which must be short and sweet, by no means rank; But if in the Winter season, to be fed with fine, sweet and soft Hay, which put into low Racks, that they may learn to feed thereon; and it were not amiss to House your Calves the first Winter in the cold Nights. It is customary with some to take the Calves from their Dams after the first sucking, and so to bring them up by Hand with flit Milk, made only luke­warm; for to give them that which is hot is very dangerous; but this way I hold troublesome. These Calves that are Calved in four or five Days after the change of the Moon, are not good to rear; but sell them off to the Butcher; and the best time to rear Calves, is from Michaelmass to Candlemass. Those Male Calves that you in­tend for Oxen, the best Season to geld them is in the old of the Moon, and when they are fifteen or twenty days old, for then there is least danger; and the Ox is said to be higher and larger of Body, and longer Horned.

The OX is a very profitable Beast; for besides the great benefit made by them when fat­ted for the Butcher, they perform the Office of the Horse, both for Ploughing and Carting, and therefore are much used in divers parts of this Kingdom; and those that once make use of them, seldom quit their Service, for that of the Horse; for they require not that care and charge in keeping; and when they grow old, are fatted for the Butcher, so that there is not that loss, as by Horses, nor are they subject to so many Dis­eases; 'Tis true, they are slower in their Work, but will perform as much with the allowance of more time, and that fault may be easily born with. The larger your Oxen are, the better both for Draught and Feeding. In matching your Oxen for the Yoak, they should be as near as possi­ble of an equal size, strength and Spirit; for the stronger (without great care of the Driver) will wrong the weaker, and the duller will injure the free spirited; and those Oxen are fittest for the Yoak which are of the gentlest nature. By no means put your Oxen beyond their ordinary pace, for that causeth heat, which breeds Surfeits, which is found very prejudicial unto them, even sometimes with the loss of their lives. Their Food is but ordinary, Barly, Oates, or Peasestraw, will suffice them, and sometimes for change some Hay mixt amongst the Fodder.

For the Oxen bred for the Butcher, see that they are always lusty and healthful, which you may know by a good Tayl, and a good Pyzle, for if the Hair of one or both be lost, he is a waster, and will be long in feeding. If they lick them­selves [Page 257] all over, 'tis a good sign they are fit for the Butcher, and will feed, shewing soundness, and that they take joy in themselves; yet whilst they so lick themselves they feed not, therefore if you lay their own Dung upon their Hides, it will cause them to leave li [...]king, and fall to [...]eeding.

For the knowledge of a fat Beast, handle his hindmost Rib; and if it be soft and loose like Down, it shews he is outwardly well fed; the like doth soft Huckle-bones, and a big Neck round 10 and knotty; if his Cod be big and full, it shews he is well Tallowed, and so doth the Crop behind the Shoulders: If it be a Cow, handle her Navel, and if that be big, round and soft, 'tis a sign she is well Tallowed. Many other Observations there are to know fat Cattle, but these shall suf­fice.

Directions to keep Beasts and other Cat­tle.20

FOr keeping of Cattle to the most advantage there should be several Closes of Pasture Ground to put them in, which should be well en­closed and fenced about with Ditches or Hedges, the better to sever and keep apart the greatest and strongest Cattle from the weak and small ones, especially in the Winter, when they are foddred; for if all sorts and sizes go together, the great 30 and strong ones will over-master the others, driving them from place to place, and trampling and spoyling more Fodder than they eat; And by being Foddred abroad, if severed as afore­said, far less will serve them than if kept at House, and the Cattle will thrive the better; besides it is an improvement to the Ground.

How to dispose of Cattle at Pasture.

NEither Cattle, Horse, or Sheep put into a 40 Field alone, will eat down the Pasture e­ven, except it be overstockt, and that is not good; therefore 'tis convenient to put Horses and Beasts together, for there is some Grass that an Horse will eat that a Beast will not: But Horses and Sheep will not agree well together, both being sweet Feeders, and close Biters. Milch-Cows and Draught-Oxen feed closer and barer than those that are Fat.

If a Milch-Cow have too much Meat, and grow 50 fat, she will abate her Milk, and go to Bull; and if a Cow be fat at her Calving it endangers the hurting her; and where there is too much Grass the Cattle feed the worser, for a Bite to the Earth is sufficient; for if it be long they will bite off the Top and no more, for that is sweet, and the other lieth on the Ground and rots, so that no Beast will eat it, but Horses in the Winter. 60

Rules for Buying Cattle.

IF you would buy Oxen for the Plough, let them be young, and free from Diseases, nor broken of Hair, Tail, or Pizle. If Cows for the Pail, let them be also young, well shaped, thin Skin'd, with good Dugs and Vdders. In buying Lean Oxen for Graising, chuse those that are young, or at least those that are well Mouthed, and not wanting any Teeth; also such that have broad Ribs, a thick Hide, and loose Skin'd. Also in buying Cattle either fat or lean, endea­vour to know where they were bred; for if they come off from better Ground than that you design them for, they will not thrive, but rather grow worse, and likewise see if they are free from Murren, or any Disease.

Now for the preservation of Cattle in good health, it is good to let them Blood (except the Calves) every Spring and Fall, the Moon being in any of the lower Signs; and also to give them a Drench made of the Pickle of Olives, mixed with an Head of Garlick bruised therein: And for your Calves, let them not go too early to Grass. But Diseases being common amongst Cat­tle, I shall take notice of some of the most com­mon, with Directions for their Cure.

DISEASES.
Of the Fever.

THis Distemper proceeds either from a Flux of cold Humors engendred through cold keeping, or from a Surfeit of Food that is raw and musty. The Signs of this Disease are a foaming at the Mouth, a Trembling, heavy Eyes. and Groaning: For Cure, First let Blood, then give a Drench of about a Quart of Ale, boiled with three or four Roots of Plantin, and two Spoon­fuls of the best London-Treacle, and also sprinkle the Hay with Water.

Of any Inward Sickness in Cattle.

FOr any inward Sickness, or Drooping, Take a Quart of strong Ale, in which boil an handful of Wormwood, and half an handful of Rue; then strain it, and put therein two Spoonfuls of the Juice of Garlick, with the like quantity of the Juice of House-leek, as also of London-Treacle, which give the Beast to drink luke-warm in a Drenching-Horn.

Diseases in the Gats, as Costiveness, Cholick, Flux, &c.

FOr the Flux, Take an handful of Wood-Rose-Seeds, dried and beaten to Powder, this brew in a Quart of strong Ale, and give it to drink; but if the Beast is dry and costive, take an handful of Fenugreek, which boyl in a Quart of Ale, and give it him to drink luke-warm. And for the Cholick, Belly-ake, or Gnawing in the Guts, boyl in the Water that he drinks good store of Oyl.

Pissing of Blood.

THis Disease proceeds either from over-labour, or sowre-feeding; for Cure, Take Shepherds-Purse and boyl it in a Quart of Red Wine; then strain it, and put thereto a little Ci­namon, and so give it to drink.

Of any Swelling in a Beast.

FOr any outward Swelling, bathe the place with Oyl and Vinegar exceeding hot, which will asswage it; but if the Swelling be inward, then boyl in the Water round Aristolochia.

For a Cough, or Shortness of Breath.10

GIve the Beast for several Mornings together, one or two Spoonfuls of Tar, dissolved in a Quart of new Milk, with an Head of Garlick bruised therein.

Diseases in the Lungs.

THe Lungs of Cattle are much subject to Sickness, which doth appear by much panting and shortness of Breath, with a continual 20 Coughing. This Disease is cured by the aforesaid Drink, prescribed for a Cough.

Loss of the Cud.

TO recover the Cud, Take a little sowre Leaven and Loam, of which make a pret­ty big Ball, which cause the Beast to swallow.

To kill Worms.30

TAke Savin, chopt small, and mix it with sweet Butter, and so give it in round Balls. And if you give the Beast some sweet Wort, mixt with a little Black-Soap, in a Drenching-Horn, it will cause him to void the Worms.

Vomiting of Blood.

THis Disease proceeds through rankness of 40 Blood, got in rich Pasture after hard keep­ing, insomuch that the Blood will be seen to flow from his Mouth. For Cure, First let the Beast Blood, and then give to drink Bolearmoniack and Ale mixt together.

To cause a Beast to Piss.

STeep Smallage, or the Roots of Raddish, in a Quart of Ale, and give it to drink is pre­sent 50 help.

The Overflowing of the Gall.

THis Disease is known by the yellowness of the Eyes and Skin. For Cure, Give him a Quart of Milk, with Saffron and Turmerick mixt together, to drink after letting Blood; and this do three Mornings together.60

A Cow that is Whetherd.

THis is occasioned when a Cow after her Calving can't cast her Gleaning. Now to cause her to Cast it, take the Juice of Bettony, Mugwort, and Mallows, of each three Spoonfuls, which mix in a Quart of Ale, and give it her to drink: Also give her to eat scorched Barly, and it will cause her to void it.

Of Purging Cattle.

THere is no Medicine purgeth better than Tar, Butter, and Sugar Candy mixt together, and given in pretty big Balls.

Of faintness in Labour in an Ox.

IF in the heat of the Day, or in his Labour he doth faint, loose him, and drive him to some runing Stream to drink; then give him two or three Ospines full of parched Barley to eat, and he will soon fall to his Labour again.

Breeding Milk in Cows.

IF after her Calving she can't let down her Milk, give her a Quart of strong Posset-Ale, mixt with Anniseeds and Coriander-seeds beaten to Powder every Morning for some time, which will not only bring down her Milk, but much in­crease it.

Of the Rot in Cattle.

THis Disease is known by their Leaness, and continually Scouring. Take Bay-berries beaten to Powder, Ivy-Leaves, Featherfew, Myrh, and Elder-Leaves, a good lump of dry Clay and Bay-Salt; mix these together in strong Vrine. Of this give the Beast to drink luke-warm about half a Pint, and it will preserve them.

Of Wounds in Cattle.

TO Cure any Disease given by Edge-Tools, or otherwise, where the Skin is broke; Take Hogs-grease, Turpentine, Tar, and Wax, of each a like quantity, with a quarter so much of Verdi­grease; melt all these together into a Salve, which spread upon a Cloth, and lay to the Wound.

To Cure a Beast that is Goared by another, or by a Stake.

TAke Turpentine and Oyl, heat them, and so Tent the Wound therewith.

To draw out a Thorn, or Stub.

TAke black Snails and black Soap, beat them to a Salve, and so apply them to the Soar.

Diseases in the Eyes, as the Haw, a Stroak, Inflam­mation, Pin, or Web.

FOr any general Soarness in the Eyes, Take the Water of Eyebright, mixt with the Juice of House-leek, and wash them therewith. If a Haw breed therein, then cut it out, which is easie to do: But if for a Stroak, Inflammation, Pin, or Web, take a new laid Egg, put out half the White, and fill it up with Salt and a little Gin­ger; then Roast it very hard, and beat it to [Page 259] Powder Shell and all: Of this Powder put into the Beasts Eye, and it will cure it.

Of Diseases in the Neck, as Bruised, Gauled, Swoln, &c.

IF any Oxes Neck hath any of the said Infir­mities, occasioned by the Yoak, Take the Leaves of round Aristolochia, which beat in a Mortar with Tallow, or fresh Grease, and anoint 10 the place therewith.

Of Leaness of Cattle.

WHen Cattle fall away, which may be known by their Hair, First, let Blood; then take sweet Butter, and beat it in a Mortar with a little Myrh and the Shavings of Ivory, and cause him to swallow down two or three of the said Balls fasting; and if it be in the Winter, feed 20 him with sweet Hay.

The Murrain in Cattle.

THis Disease proceeds from divers Causes, as from rankness of Blood, or Feeding, from corruption of the Air, from Floods, In­temperateness of the Weather, or from Infection of other Cattle. To prevent or cure this Dis­ease, give all your Cattle (as well the sound as sick)30 this following Medicine: Take of old Vrine a Quart, mix it with an handful of Hens-Dung dissolved therein, and give it them to Drink.

Of the Worm in the Tail.

FOr Cure, wash the Tail in strong Lye made of Vrine and Ashen Wood-Ashes.

Diseases in the Sinews, as Weakness, Stiffness, or 40 Soreness.

FOr Cure, Take Mallows and Checkweed, which boyl in the Dregs of Ale, or in Vine­gar, and being very hot lay it to the place grieved.

Of Hide-Boundness.

THis Disease is occasioned through over­much Labour, and ill Keeping: For Cure,50 First let Blood, then give him to drink a Quart of Ale brewed with Myrh, and the Powder of Bay-berries, or of the Leaves. You must keep him warm, giving him Hay that is a little Mow burnt, which will cause him to drink, and Drink will cause his Skin to loosen.

Of Biting with a Mad Dog, or any other Venemous Creature.60

FOr Cure, Take Plantain, which beat in a Mortar with Bolearmoniack, Sanguis-Draconis, Barly-Meal, and the Whites of Eggs; This make up into a Plaister, and apply to the Soar, renew­ing it once a Day.

Of the Foul, or any other Grief in the Hoof.

TAke Mugwort, beat it in a Mortar with hard Tallow, and apply it to the Hoof. Also cast the Beast, and with a Hay-Rope rub so hard be­tween the Hoof that you make it bleed; then anoint the place with Tar, Turpentine, and Kitching-Fee mixt together; then bind up the Hoof, and keep him out of the Dirt.

Of Lice and Ticks.

BEasts that are bred in Woods under Dropings of Trees, or in barren unwholsom places, are subject to Lice, and Ticks. For Cure, Anoint their Body with fresh Grease, Pepper, Stavesacre, and Quicksilver, beaten together until the Quick­silver be killed.

SHEEP.

SHEEP deserve the next place, if not the priority, for the great benefit accuring there­by (especially if Fortune favours to keep them Sound) in a threefold manner; First for Food, next by their Wool for Clothing, and thirdly by Dunging and Manuring the Ground, being Foulded thereon, to the great enrichment thereof.

Therefore if you will stock your self with good Sheep, you must have regard to the na­ture of the Soil where you dwell; for accord­ing to the Earth and Air, Sheep do alter their natures and properties; the barren Sheep be­coming good in rich Soils, and the good Sheep barren in ill Soils; so that if you would have Sheep of a fine Staple of Wool, buy those of Herefordshire, about Lempster parts; also in that part of Worcestershire bordering on Shropshire; yet these Sheep are very little of Bone, are black Fac'd, and bear small Fleeces. The Sheep about Cotsal-Hills are better Bond', Shape, and Burthen; but their Staple is courser and deeper. The Sheep in that part of Worcestershire joyning to Warwickshire, and many parts of Warwickshire, also all Leicestershire, Buckinghamshire, with part of Northamptonshire, and that part of Notingham­shire which is exempt from Sherwood Forest, are large Boned, are of a good Shape and deepest Sta­ple, especially if they be Pasture Sheep; but their Wool is courser than that of Cotsal. Lincoln­shire (especially in the Salt Marshes) have also large Sheep, but not the best Wool. All these large sized Sheep (especially Weathers) find good vent amongst the London Butchers, to the no small profit of the Grasier. The Sheep in Yorkshire, and so Northwards, are of reasonable big Bone, but of a Staple rough and hairy: And the Welsh Sheep are generally esteemed the worst of all, for they are both little, and of a worse Staple; but their Flesh is excellent for its sweet tast. The Sheep of Dorsetshire are esteemed for bringing two Lambs at a time, and are a good sized Sheep.

Therefore the Natures and Properties of the Sheep of the several Counties being known, when you intend to stock your Grounds be sure to [Page 260] bring your Sheep from a worse Soil to a better, and not from a better to a worse; for the Ground or Lear on which the Sheep lieth, and gives him his Colour, is much to be regarded; the red Lear is esteemed the best; the Duskish that in­clines to a little reddish is tollerable good, but the white or dirty Lear is altogether bad. In the choice therefore of your Sheep, chuse the biggest Boned, with the best Wool, provided your Ground be fit for them, as before taken notice 10 of.

In the choice of your Sheep for Breed, be sure have good Rams, for they either mar, or make a Flock; and for Shape, should be long and large of Body, with a broad and well rising Fore­head, a chearful large Eye, broad Back'd, round Buttocks, a thick Tail, short joynted Legs, and his Body well covered over with thick Wool; and above all, 'tis the Opinion of some to chuse them without Horns, for the Dodder Sheep 20 prove the best Breeders, and their Issue doth never endanger the Ewes in Yeaning, as the Horned Sheep do.

The best time for your Ewes to Lamb in (if they be Pasture Sheep) is about the latter end of April, and so to the beginning of June; but if they be Field Sheep, then from the beginning of January to the end of March, to the end their Lambs may be strong and able before May-day, 30 to follow their Dams over the Fallow Grounds: For those that Lamb very early, require great care in looking after, with no small charge to bring them up at House with good Fodder.

About Michaelmass is a good time to Geld those that you design for Weathers; first making choice of the goodliest for Rams.

The best time to Sheer Sheep is from June to August, and always Wash them three days before Shearing. Ewes are generally good Breeders from three Years old, until their Mouths break.40

For the preservation of your Sheep, feed them for the generality upon high or Hilly Grounds, which are dry and fertil, with short but sweet Grass. But if you are constrained to feed on low and moist Grounds which are Infectious, then bring not your Sheep from the Fold until the Sun is risen, and that the Beams begin to exhale the Dew from the Earth; and then suffer them not to feed at first, but chase them gently up and down with your Dog until they are weary; and 50 this Chasing not only beateth away those Webs, Kells, and Mildews that hang upon the Grass, which occasions the Rotteness of a Sheep, but also stirreth up that Natural heat in a Sheep, which drinketh up and wasteth that Moisture which otherwise would turn to Rotteness; besides, a Sheep thus chased and wearied, will fall to his food with more deliberation.

If your Shepherd once in about a Month, or when he hath occasion to handle his Sheep, do 60 rub their Mouths with Bay-Salt, 'tis a great pre­servative against Sickness. But forasmuch as Dis­eases are common amongst them, I shall take notice of the Principal, with Directions for their Cure.

Signs to know a sound Sheep, as also an unsound one.

IF a Sheep be sound and in health, his Eyes will be bright and chearful, the White pure without Spot, and the Strings Red, his Gums also will be red, his Teeth white, his Skin on his Brisket red, his Skin in general will be loose, and his Wool fast set on. But if unsound, his Eyes will be heavy, pale, and spotted, his Breast and Gums white, his Teeth foul and yellow, and his Wool easie to pull off; and when he is dead, his Belly will be full of Water, his Fat yellow, his Liver putrified, and his Flesh moist and waterish.

Of Sickness in General, or the Fever amongst Sheep.

FOr Cure of this Distemper, change of Pasture is very profitable. Also, Take Puliol Royal, stamp it, and mix the Juice with Water and Vi­negar, and give each of them about half a Pint in a Drenching-Horn luke-warm.

Of the General Scab, or Itch in Sheep.

THis is a common Disease, and proceedeth from Wet and Rainy Weather, so that if they be chaft or heated after the Wet hath fallen upon them, they commonly break forth into Scabs; and the usual Cure amongst Shepherds, is to anoint the place with Tar and Grease mixt together. But if at the first coming you wash their Skins with Puliol Royal steept in Water, it will prevent the runing into the Scab.

Killing Maggots in Sheep.

FOr Cure, Take Goose-Grease, Tar, and Brim­stone, mixt together on the Fire, and anoint the place therewith.

Diseases in the Gall, as the Jaundies, Choler, &c.

THese Diseases are known by the yellowness of the Sheeps Skin. For Cure, Take Plan­tain and Lettuce, stamp them together, and mix the Juice with Vinegar, and give to each Sheep about half a Pint to drink.

Of the Sturdy, Turning-Evil, or More-found.

THese Distempers proceed from rankness of Blood, which offends the Brain, and other inward Parts. For Cure, Let them Blood in the Eye-Veins, Temple-Veins, and through the No­strils, and then rub the places with young Nettles bruised.

Of Broken Bones, or Bones out of Joynt.

FIrst, Set it strait and right; then bathe it with Oyl and Wine, and dip a Cloth in moulten Patchgrease, which roul about it; then Splint it as occasion shall serve, and so let it re­main for about nine Days, and dress it again; and at the end of the next nine Days the Sheep will be able to go.

Of the Tag'd, or Belt Sheep.

THe Cure of this is, with a Pair of Sheers to cut away the Tags, laying the Soar bare [Page 261] and raw; then strew dryed Earth upon it, and after that Tar and Goose-grease mixt together.

Of the Staggers.

THis Disease proceeds by Surfeiting on Haw­thorn Leaves, Oak Leaves, or the like, which Lambs especially are very subject unto, and if not timely prevented is Mortal. For Cure, Take Asafetida dissolved in Water, and 10 put the quantity of half a Spoonful thereof in­to each Ear of the Sheep, or Lamb.

Loose Teeth.

FIrst, let Blood in his Gums, and under his Tail; then rub his Teeth with Earth, Sage, and Salt.

The loss of the Cud.20

THat which restoreth the Cud to an Ox or a Cow, will do for a Sheep.

Of Worms in the Guts of Sheep, or Lambs.

THis Disease is known by their beating their Bellies with their Feet, and looking upon it. For Cure, Take the Leaves of Coriander stampt, mix the Juice with Honey, and give it him to drink; then chafe him a little, and keep 30 him from eating two or three hours.

Of Lung-sick, or any Cough or Cold.

THis Disease is known by its Coughing, and shortness of Breath. For Cure, Take Colts­foot, and Lugwort stampt and strain'd, and the Juice mixt with a little Honey and Water, which give the Sheep to drink.

Diseases in the Eyes, as the How, Dinness, or any Soreness.40

TO Cure these Diseases, drop into the Eyes the Juice of Selandine.

To preserve Sheep from the Rot.

THis Disease is the worst of all, as being In­fectious, therefore great care ought to be 50 had to prevent it, which may be done by care, and following these Directions. So soon as you find that any are tainted, Take Adraces, which is a certain Salt gathered from the Salt Marshes in the heat of Summer, when the Tide is going off, and leaving certain Drops of Salt Water on the Grass, which the heat of the Sun turns to Salt. With this Adraces rub the Mouths of all your Sheep once a Week, and it will preserve them sound. Of this Adraces great plenty is in Spain, 60 and may be easily made in divers parts of Eng­land, where the Sea overflows at Tides.

To cause Ewes to be easily Delivered.

TAke Balsa-mint, or Horse-mint, and put ei­ther the Powder, or the Juice thereof, into a little strong Ale, and give it her to drink, and she will soon Yean, or Lamb.

Of increasing Milk in Ewes.

NOthing encreaseth Milk more than change of Pasture, driving them sometimes on the Hills, and other times in the Vallies, and where the Grass is sweet.

To cause an Ewe to love her Lamb, or any others Lamb.

TAke a little of the Glean of the Ewe, and force her to eat it, or at least to chew it in her Mouth, and she will fall to love it. But if an Ewe hath cast her Lamb, and you would have her to take another Ewes Lamb, take the Lamb that is Dead, and with it rub and dawb all over the Live Lamb, and so put it to the Ewe, and she will take it naturally, as if her own, provided it be not too old.

Of any Sickness in Lambs.

GIve them Mares-Milk, or Goats-Milk, or its own Dams Milk mixt with Water to drink, and keep it very warm.

To know the Age of a Sheep.

LOok into his Mouth, and when he is one Shear he will have two broad Teeth before; when he is two Shear, he will have four such like broad Teeth; when he is three Shear, he will have six; and when he is four Shear, he will have eight, and after those Years his Mouth vvill be­gin to break.

SWINE.

SWINE are of that great profit, that he that hath Sheep, Swine, and Bees, let him sleep or vvake is sure to thrive, being a great support to a Family, affording great variety of Meat, as Pigs, Pork, Bacon, and Brawn, besides their Offal, which is very good food. And Hogs require the least charge in keeping of any other Beast; for their Food is course and ordinary, being con­tented vvith any thing, so that they have but their Bellies full, as Whey, Flit-Milk, Wash, Grains, Offal, Corn, Carots, Parsnips, Coleworts, Cabage-Leaves, Bean-tops, &c. And it vvere not amiss if a parcel of Land vvere planted vvith such like Garden Food, on purpose to feed them.

Now for the Keeping them, some are of Opinion, 'tis better to have a Hog-yard with Styes in it, and there to keep them penned up, than to have their liberty, for then they wast their Flesh, and will not fat so soon. Yet after Harvest, to let them have the benefit of eating up the Corn left on the Ground would be profitable. And some are of Opinion, that 'tis better to keep all Boars and Sows, and no Barrows; for a Boar will re­quire as little keeping as a Barrow, and is much better, having more Meat in him, and if you [Page 262] make it into Brawn is far dearer; and for Sows, before they are fit to kill, may bring more Pigs than they are worth, and notwithstanding be as fit for Bacon as Barrows, provided they are not too old, for a Sow will bring three Litters a Year, and commonly nine, ten, or twelve at a time; but the only reason against keeping too many, is the great trouble attended with the charge of bringing up the Pigs, either fit for the Market, or for Store. 10

For the choice of your Swine, both Boars and Sows that you design for a Breed, let them be long and large of Body, deep Sided, and Bellied, thick Necks and Thighs, short Legs and thick Chined, well set with strong Bristles; as to their Co­lour it matters not much, but the White, or Sandy are esteemed the best, the Pide being held the worst, as subject to the Meazles.

A Sow will brings Pigs from a year old until se­ven; and the Pigs best to rear are those sarrow­ed 02 in or or about Lent, and in Summer, for in Winter the cold doth much pinch them and keep them back; then having chosen out the best for Boars and Sows to breed on, Geld all the Males, and Spay the Females you design to Rear, for both will make the best Hogs for fatning, and yield more Lard.

For Fatning of Swine it differeth much, having regard to the Country where you dwell; for those that inhabit near Woods, and places where Mast 30 is plentiful, turn them unto the Mast for six, or eight Weeks, by which time they will be much improved as to Flesh, and then put them into Styes to fatten, with old dry Pease, which makes their Fat Firm and not to wast away in boyling. But Swine fatned with Acorns, or Ches­nuts, or with Parsnips, makes the Flesh of an excellent sweet tast; and if in Salting you use Salt-Peter mixt with Bay-Salt, the Bacon will imitate that of the Westphalia. 40

Those that dwell in Champain Countreys, or by Cities or great Towns, destitute of Wood for Mast, do use to put their Hogs they design to fat into Sties, and so feed them with Pease, Beans, Buck-Wheat, or such that they have; but Buck-Wheat is not good, making the Fat soft and subject much to wast, without they are kept some time before their killing only which Pease, or Beans; for midling sized Pork, three Weeks is enough to fatten them, and four Weeks for Bacon. 50

To cause Hogs to thrive.

IF your Hogs do not thrive (which is seen by the staring of their Hair, and looking rugged) take half a Peck, or more of Ashes, boyl them into Lye; then cause such Hogs, to be laid upon a Form, and wash them with the Lye, and curry them with an old Curry-comb until you find all the Scruf washt from the Skin; then wash them with clean Water, and Strew 60 dry Ashes over them, and this will kill the Lice, and cause them to thrive extraordinarily. Now the greatest thing that hinders Hogs from thriving, is to let them lye in the Wet.

There is no Creature so timerous in Sickness as the Swine, insomuch that he forsakes his Meat, until he finds a Recovery. Now when you find your Swine to droop and forsake their Meat, first let them Blood under the Tayl, and Ears, and if they Bleed not well, beat them about, which will cause them to Bleed; the Wounds wrap up and keep warm, and give them to drink warm Wash, well mixt with Bearly Meal, and red Oaker.

The Murren.

THis Disease is very common and danger­ous, if not early prevented: For Cure give them in their warm Wash, Hens-dung, and boyld Liverwort, with a little red Oaker.

The Meazles.

THis is also a common Disease, and easily cured; Take Urine that hath been some time made, and mix it with red Oaker, until it be thick, and about an Ale-quart; this mix with a Gallon of warm sweeet Whey, and give it them to drink, after they have been kept all Night fasting.

Of Leanness, Scurf, and the Mange.

THese diseases proceed from corrupt Blood oc­casioned by scanty feeding, and lying wet; for Cure first let Blood under the Tayl; then with a Wool-Card, or Curry-comb rub them well over to fetch off all the Scurf and Filth un­til they Bleed; then take Tarr, Hogs-grease and Brimstone, well mixt together, and anoynt them therewith; then cause good dry, sweet Straw to be put into their Stye, and let them have good warm Food, which will soon recover them, and canse them to thrive.

To Cure Swine that are lugged in their Ears by Dogs.

ANoynt the Ears with Vinegar, Sope and Tallow mixt together, and if through want of looking after they Breed Magots, take sweet Wort, or Honey, and anoynt the Sore there­with, and the Magots will soon fall off and dye.

ASSES.

THe Ass is a very serviceable Beast for di­vers affairs, and is kept with little or no Charge, by reason of their hardiness, mean feed­ing, and worse looking after; they patiently enduring Hunger, Thirst, Labour and Blows, and were it not for their ill quality of Barking Trees, they would be more set by. Asses Milk is esteem­ed an excellent restorative in a Consumption.

GOATS.

THis Beast is also very pernicious to keep, for their Barking of Trees, and other mis­cheivous Tricks; so that I cannot recommend them to any to keep, but to such that live in rocky, [Page 263] Mountainuos places, hardly fit for any thing else.

I should here treat of the Coney, which is a very profitable Creature, and a great help to a Family; but having discoursed thereof in a Chap­ter at large in the Treatise of Hunting, I shall o­mit it here, referring you to the same.

FOWL, or POVLTREY.

THere is no greater benefit than that which 10 ariseth by Fowl, and they are so absolute­ly necessary, that a Countrey Habitation cannot be deemed compleat that is not well stored with them; and as to the charges in keeping them, 'tis inconsiderable, if the great profit that may be made thereby (if well ordered) be rightly con­sidered, as well by their Eggs and Feathers, as by their Bodies, and young Chicken to the Poulteres; besides the supplying your own Table therewith; and to those that live within a Days Journey to 20 London, for a quick sale of them, there can be no greater benefit made than by Fowl, for they always meet with good Markets; also the Lon­don Poulterers will be desirous to take them off your Hands.

Of the Hen-house, and it Situation.

THe Hen-house should be large, but with consi­deration to the quantity of Fowl you 30 keep; let it be high rooft, and withal strong and secure built for preserving them from Thieves; and with Shuts to the Windows to keep out Vermine; let there be dispersed about it Pens or Coops for the Fowl to be put in that are with Egg; and those for Geese, and Turkeys must be larger and higher then for Hens; and on the sides of the Walls, and thwart the House in convenient pla­ces should be long Perches for Cocks, Hens and Turkeys to Roost upon. As for the Geese and 40 Ducks they sit on the Ground, or in the Pens; and to the end the Fowl may the better get up to the Roosts, let there be Pins (that is short pie­ces of Wood) drove into the Walls, with Steps, in imitation of Ladders, for them to hop up to the said Roosts, which are very commodious, es­pecially for the young ones. Let not the Floor be paved, or boarded, but of Earth made smooth, and even like a Barn Floor. And it were conve­nient to have a Hole made in the Groundsel for the Chickens, and young Fowl to come in and our 50 at, with a Shutter at night for the keeping out Vermin. The Coops, or Pens as very convenient to put in those Fowl, that by the Servant that tends them are found with Egg at night, to the end their Eggs may be preserved; for if they should be suffered to make Nests, and to lay a­broad, not one in Ten would be found good, for they will be subject to Wesels, or the like Vermin; or if found, may be stale and useless.60 And to keep all the Poultry in the House until all have laid, will be a great prejudice to the rest, as being deprived of their early morning feeding for Worms; But for Geese when they have once chosen their Nests, they will always lay there, so that they need not be pen'd up.

But according to the opinion of the experien­ced Housewife, Fowl that sit, be they Hens, Tur­keys, Geese or Ducks, should have places apart, where other Fowl cannot come to distrub them, which oft-times occasions them to forsake their Eggs. Tis not material to direct what places, most Houses having that convenience; if not, such places must be made; especially if great store are kept.

The best way to keep Eggs long and good, is in a Heap of old Malt, close covered over.

Feeding your Fowl.

FOr the feeding your Poultrey it is various; Buck, or French Wheat will soon fat them; but 'tis a loose Fat, and will wast upon the Spit. Hemp-seed is good to lay Eggs, the like doth Net­tle-seeds, a little being mixt with the Oats or Bar­ley; and it is convenient to observe set times for the feeding them, as early in the Mornings, and just before their going to Roost, which will bring them to a good order, and to become tame, and readily go to the Henhouse to Roost; about the quantity of half a handful of Oats, or Barly, to each Fowl is sufficient at one time, for if you feed your Store-Fowl too much, their fatness will hinder their laying; besides they will lay their Eggs without Shells. There are divers other things very good to feed Poultrey, as also Tur­keys with, as Parsnips, and Carots, which must be washt, sliced, and so boyled tender in fair Water; then mix them with Meal made up into a Past, and feed them therewith, which is an excellent fat feeding; but not good for your Store-Fowl, only for such as you design for the Spit. Sea-Bisket is very good Food, being steeped in fair Water, over a gentle Fire until it is soft, and so give it them; it is bought very cheap on Shipboard at their return from Sea. Grains are very good Food for Ducks; and it is observed, that if you put in­to the Past aforesaid, a little Sugar, it much quick­ens their fatning.

If the Range for Powltrey and Turkeys is large; they will get good part of their living by Worms; the Seeds of Herbs, Bugs, and the like. Ducks feed much on Duckgraves, as also on Frogs, Slugs, and such like things that are hurtful to your Garden-plants, so that they are very neces­sary to be kept there; and for Geese, their Food is much on Grass.

For fatning of Poultrey 'tis the opinion of some, that if they are kept in dark places, they will fat the sooner.

Stubble-Geese, as also Green-Geese are best fatted if kept dark, and to be fed with ground Malt mixt with Milk. On their Rumps there is a small Bunch of Feathers which in the Nights they usually suck with their Bills, drawing out a moisture thereat, which Bunch of Feathers, if cut away before they are put up to fatten, they will fat much sooner, and with less Meat, so that 'tis said that the Jews knowing of this inconveniency, use to tye them up in a Cloth, hang them in a dark place, stop their Ears which Peases to hinder their hearing any noyse, and so feed them with Pellets made of ground Malt, or Barley steeped in Wa­ter; as also to set Gravel and Water by them, [Page 264] which much whets their Stomachs, and causeth them to fat sooner.

For Setting of Poultrey.

THe best time for Setting Poultrey, to have the best, largest and most kindly Chickens is in February, and in the Increase of the Moon, so that they may hatch in March; one Brood then Hatch'd being esteemed worth two or three 10 at any other time; yet they prove good if Hatch'd in any of the Summer Months; and it is observed to be best to Set them on odd Eggs. It is a great advantage to Set Turkeys on Hen-Eggs, for they Set a Month with their own, and in six Weeks they will hatch two Broods of Hen-Eggs; and the first Brood may be put to such Hens that have but a few Chickens, or that have had some Misfortune, by Adling their Eggs, or the like.20

Be sure to Set your Poultrey with New-laid Eggs, which you may easily know by holding them up against the Sun, for such will be clear; also they are heavier than stale ones. And chuse not the largest Eggs, for they take up too much room, so that you can't set under her so many.

The Hens having Hatch'd their Chickens, take them and the Hen to be kept in some conve­nient place in the House, and after a Day or two give them small Oatmeal, some dry, and some 30 steept in Milk; and when a little bigger, larger Oatmeal, Crums of White-Bread, Curds, Barly-Meal soaked, and the like, until they grow big enough to eat Oats, or Barley; also to chop green Chives amongst their Meat is very good. Be sure let them not want Water, for that breeds the Pip.

If you would have Cram'd Chicken, let them be put into the Coops so soon as taken from the Hen, that is, when she forsaketh them; and the 40 best Cram is Wheat-Meal and Milk made into Dough, and the Crams steept in Milk, and so thrust it down with your Finger in small Pellets. A Fortnight is sufficient to fat them in.

Of Capons.

CApons, which are the gelt Cock-Chickens, should be gelt so soon as the Hen hath left them, if the Stones be so soon come down, or 50 else so soon as they begin to Crow; for the Art of Gelding them is common, and soon learnt by seeing one or two gelt. As for the Cramming them for the Table, Take Barley-Meal well sifted, mixt with New-Milk, which make into good stiff Dough, and so into Pellets, and feed them therewith, being wet in warm Milk; let them have their Crops full, and feed them three times a day, viz. Morning, Noon, and Night, and in a Fortnight, or three Weeks, they will be fat e­nough.60

Diseases that Poultrey are most subject unto.

THe Pip is a white thin Skin, or Scale grow­ing on the Tip of the Tongue, which hin­ders their feeding, occasioned from drinking foul Water. For Cure, Pull off the said Skin, and rub the Tongue with Salt.

LICE in Poultrey is chiefly from corrupt Feeding; the Cure is, by bathing them in warm Water, with small Pepper mixt therein.

Stinging by Venemous Creatures appears by their swelling and drooping; for Cure, anoint them with Rue and Butter.

Poultrey are oft troubled with swellings in their Rumps, which in time will corrupt the whole Body. The Cure is, to pull away the Feathers, opening the Soar and thrust out the Core; then wash the place with Salt and Water, or Brine.

To cause Hens to SIT, bathe them oft in cold Water, and thrust a small Feather through their Nostrils.

Hens that CROW are very unnatural; to remedy which keep them from other Poultrey, and feed them with scorched Barley, or small Wheat.

For Hens that are Crow-trodden, there is no remedy but to kill them. It is to be known by the staring of their Feathers, and hanging their Wings.

GEESE.

GEESE, as aforesaid, are very profitable to be kept, their chief food being Grass, and that the worst, as in Commons; they are not to be kept without the convenience of Water.

They begin to Lay early in the Spring, and the sooner the better; before they begin to Lay they will carry up and down Straw in their Bills, and when they will Sit, they will keep their Nests, so that then put their own Eggs to them. In about a Month the Eggs will be Hatch'd; then keep them some time in the House, feeding them with Curds, Barley-Meal wet in Milk, ground Malt, or Bran moistned in Milk or Water; and having gathered a little strength turn out the Goose with her Goslings to feed, &c. still observing to feed them as aforesaid, until they are fit to shift for them­selves. In about a Month they will be fit to put up to Fat for Green-Geese; and for their Fatting feed them thrice a Day, that is, Morning, Noon, and Night, with plenty of Skeg-Oats boiled, with Milk, or Milk and Water mixt to drink.

For the Fatning of Geese let them take the be­nefit of the Stubble after Harvest, which will make them fleshy; and then put them up in Coops apart dark kept, and let them have always by them good Oats, or spelted Beans, and for their Drink, Water mixt with Barley-Meal, and this will fatten them in about three Weeks, or you may observe the same Directions, as afore­said.

For the pulling off the Feathers, as some use, I hold it not good, being prejudicial unto them.

The general Infirmity that Geese are troubled with, is the Gargil, being a great stopping of the Head. For Cure, Take three or four Cloves of Garlick, beat them in a Mortar with sweet Butter, of which make little long Balls, and give two or three of them to her fasting, keeping her shut up for about two hours after.

TVRKEYS.

THis Fowl is very profitable, if you under­stand how to order them rightly. The Young ones are very tender, and subject to the Cramp, especially if too tenderly kept, not per­mitting them to go abroad with their Dams; so that 'tis observed, that a Turkey that sits her self, and brings forth her Young without Housing,10 comes to more good, as not subject to the Cramp, that so often kills those kept in the House, when they are put out in the Dew. They are generally inclined to rove or stray from their Dams, which are also very negligent of them; for if she hath but one following her, she will not regard the rest, which oft proves the loss of them, without an Eye over them.

Turkeys begin to Lay about March, and will Sit about April, and Hatch in about a Month.20 They are very subject to Lay abroad, so that care must be taken to put them in the Hen-house, Cooping up those that the Servant finds with Egg at Night, as afore-directed.

The Young ones are fed with Curds, Milk, and Bread, and let their Drink be Milk and Water. When they have got strength put them abroad in some warm place, and turn them not out till the Dew is off the Grass, and so House them at Nights. 30

For Fatting Turkeys, put them in Coops, and for the first Fortnight feed them with sodden Barley, or Oats, and afterwards Cram them as Capons, as before directed.

DVCKS.

THis Fowl is no less profitable than the rest, and less chargeable in keeping, generally being their own Purveyers; but 'tis good to 40 feed them Mornings and Evenings to keep them tame, and to accustom them to the House, so that when night comes they will be drawing home; these, or indeed any other Fowl, may be called home at any time when you de­sire, by a Pipe or any whistling Noise, and to bring them to it, is always when you feed them, to make such a Noise, so that when they hear your Pipe, or Whistle, they will immediately come in expectation of Food; but never call them, but 50 Feed them, be it never so little. Grains is very good for them. They are great Layers when they begin; they Sit about a Month, and the Ducklings must be ordered and fed, as your Gos­lings, only giving them Clivers chopt in Water, or Duckgraves, and when they are abroad will better shift for themselves than the Goslings. Ducks, or Ducklings, are easily fatted, giving them good store of any kind of Grain. 60

PEACOCKS.

THis Fowl is more for the delight of the Eye, than profit; however a few may be kept. They are great Enemies to Fruit-Trees and Gar­dens, pulling off the Buds. They delight much to feed on Toads, New [...]s, and such Venemous things which makes their Flesh unwholsom; The Pea-Hen loves to lay abroad in Bushes, Hedges, and the like secret places that the Cock may not find her Eggs, for he will break them. They sit a Month Feed her young with Cheese-Curds, and Barly Meal mixt with Water. They are very tender un­til grown a little big, the least Cold killing them, so that let them not go abroad, but in Sunshiny or Warm Weather. This Fowl being not for the Dish, I shall not prescribe Rules to fat them; but as for their keeping, any Grain serveth them, and that they will get themselves, if possible.

SWANS.

THis is a stately Bird, but seldom kept; for they require large Waters, and then they will live on what they can get themselves; but in Frosty Weather they must be fed. When they make their Nests, do not disturb them. For feeding the Cignets for the Dish observe the same Rules as for Geese; or if you have the conveni­ency of a small piece of Ground with a Pond in it, which is encompassed with a Pale, or Wall you may feed them there, puting two Troughs, one for old dryed Malt, and the other for Barley and Water, and this way they will be sooner fatted than in a House.

Herns, Puets, Gulls, and Bitterns.

HErns, are nourished for too reasons, the one to make Trains for entring Hawks, or else for the Table at Feasts. The way to bring them up is to take them out of their Nests before they can fly, and put them in a large high Barn that hath many high cross Beams for them to Perch upon; and to have on the Floor several Boords about two Yards square, with Rings in them, and there to place round shallow Tubs of Water, and to the Boords ty great Gobbets of Dogs-Flesh, according to the quantity you feed; and be sure to keep the place sweet, and oft shift the Water; and let the Roof be so that Rain may fall in several places, which they much delight in; but if you feed any for the Dish, then instead of Dogs-Flesh, give them Livers, or the Intrails of Beasts or Fowl, cut in pieces. And after this manner you may feed the Gulls, or Bitterns.

To feed Pheasants, Partridges, and Quails.

THese may be kept, and fed in one large Room, where you may have in divers Corners, Boxes for them to run in to hide them­selves, and in the midst of the Room let there be placed three Wheat-sheafs, two with their Ears upwards, and the other with the Ears downwards, and near unto them shallow Tubs with fair Wa­ter, to the end they may eat and drink at pleasure, which will make them soon fat.

As for the Quail, the best way is to keep them in long flat Boxes, or Coops, with the Sticks or Wyers on the fore-side no wider than for them to put forth their Heads to feed, or drink out of the Troughs; their Food is good small Wheat, and fair Water to drink.

[Page 266] You have been told several ways how to take Phesants, Partridges and Quails, in the Treatise of Fowling, to which I refer you; omitting it here; and having so taken them, put them into your Room, as aforesaid.

To feed Goodwits, Curlews, Gray-Plovers, and Knots.10

FIne Chiltern, or small Wheat is very good; let them be fed Mornings, Noons and Nights, and to have fresh clean Water; but the quicker way is to Cram them, and then use fine drest Wheat-Meal, mixt with Milk, with some of the said Wheat, and so made up into Past, and feed them with Crums thereof dipt in Water, giving them their Gorges full; and so keep them feeding as oft as their Gorges are empty.

PIGEONS.20

PIgeons either wild or tame are very profitable and serviceable for the Table, but the wild affords the greatest, by reason they get their Food abroad, except it be in hard frosty and snowy Weather, when nothing is to be got, and about Mid-summer before Pease are ripe, this Season be­ing called Benting-time, as being then constrain­ed to feed on the Seeds of Bent-grass; and at 30 those times they must be allowed Food.

Pigeons are great lovers of Salt, so that it is very good to set a large Salt-pot in your Dove-House, that is, temper up some Loom and Salt to­gether in a Pot, and the Pigeons will feed there­on with great delight, and occasion them not to forsake your Dove-House.

Assafoetida being boyld in Water, and the Holes of the Dove-House washed therewith, will cause a scent to be on their Feathers, so 40 that what company they light into, by their plea­sing Scent they will draw home with them.

Cumin Seeds boyled in Water and applyed as aforesaid, will do the same, being an excellent drawer.

But that which is adjudged the most effectual (were it lawful) is a Salt or proud Bitch baked or roasted with Cumin-seeds, and set in the Dove-House.

OF BEES, and how to order them.50

THere is no Creature so industrious, and taketh such great pains as the Bee, go­ing out early and coming Home late, never rest­ing but in cold and wet Weather; for Idleness is so detestable a Vice amongst them, that none are tollerated thereunto but their Sovereign, every one being employed either abroad in gathering Food, or at Home in building Combs, feeding their Young,60 or some other employ; and no Creatures live to­gether in that unity and amity in one House or Habitation, as having no single propriety in any thing they get or do, all being as it were in common amongst them; nor is their Labour compulsive, but every one endeavours to out­vie the other in their industrious Labours.

There is nothing more ad vantageous to be kept than an Apiary, and there must be a con­venient, and necessary place made choise of for that purpose, which should be square, or rather more long than broad, and extending from East to West, and facing the South, to the end that the Bees returning late Home at Night may the better see their way in. But some are of another opinion, and that is; to let them have the benefit of the Morning Sun, as much as possible, that time being the best to gather Honey; but the surest way is to let them have as much of both Morning and Evening Sun as the place will ad­mit of; for the Morning Sun makes them swarm early in the Day. Let the Apiary be well defend­ed from high Winds, especially towards the North; but let not the Fences, be so high as to hinder the Sun, nor so near as to obstruct their Flight; also let it be remote from ill Smells, and not fre­quented by Poultrey: Let the Ground be kept mowed, not digged or pared if it be Grass, for in the Summer it will be too hot, and in the Winter too cold; and let it not be too remote from the House, that you may be often with them at Swarning time, or upon several other occasions. Likewise it would be very necessary to plant at some reasonable distance from the Bees, Fruit-trees, that they may pitch upon the Boughs in Swarming-time near at hand.

The usual way to set the Stocks of Bees upon, are Stools, Benches, or Seats.

The Stools are placed at different Heights, but about a Foot is well. They must be set shel­ving that the Rain may run off, and made two or three Inches wider than the Hives, with a place before for the Bees to light upon. They may be made of Wood, or Stone, but Stone is not so good, as being too hot in Summer, and too cold in the Winter. The Stools ought to stand about five Foot one from another; in a strait Rank from East to West; and if they are placed one behind another, they should be eight or nine Foot asunder, and the Stools of the one Rank to be placed against the open places of the other, and free from all incumbrances to hinder their Flight.

Benches are the most common in use, and known to every one; but they are nothing near so com­modious as Stools, being subject to divers incon­veniencies.

Seats are esteemed the best, for every Stock of Bees make a small House of about two Foot Square, and something higher, which should be placed upon four Legs about a Foot above Ground, and covered with Boards or Tyles, to cast off the Rain, with the North side closed up, the East and West sides to be made with Dores to open and shut at pleasure; and the fore part or South side to have a falling Dore to cover the one half thereof, which is to be raised up as oc­casion requires: and it likewise serves in the Sum­mer Season as a Pent House to shelter them from the extream Heat in the mid part of the Day, which is apt to melt their Honey.

On these Seats may be placed any sort of Hive, whether of Straw, Board, or Glass, which will preserve them to a longer continuance [Page 267] than if placed on Stools or Benches.

Although in some Winter days the Sun shines seemingly warm and confortable, yet it is not convenient to open the Doors to let them out, neither too early in the Spring, before they can find employment for gathering of Honey.

The most usual Hives are the Straw; but of late there is a new invented one of Wood made in Squares, and so ordered to be one Story above the other; I cannot say much in praise or dis­praise 10 of it; but the Invention did not much take, the chief design being to preserve the Stocks of Bees, and yet take the Honey, which by the com­mon way are smothered.

Glass-Hives suit the disposition and nature of the Bee, who delights to see their workmanship go forward, insomuch that by Observation they will be more laborious, as it were endeavouring to out do one another in their diligence. Also these sorts of Hives afford great delight to the 20 curious by seeing how they work, and order their affairs to wonderful admiration.

For the dressing the new Hives, the inside must be very smooth, and free from Straws and Sticks, which much offends them. As for the rubing them with sweet Herbs, and splending them, (that is setting up the Sticks) it is common and well known to most Countrey People, so that I shall pass that by.

If you would have your Stocks to encrease,30 make your Hives smaller; and if your design be to have good quantity of Honey, make them lar­ger; for a few Hives well ordered and in a thri­ving condition, will afford Bees enough to Stock many of the larger Hives.

As for the Swarming, if the Spring be dry, cold and windy, it will much retard their Swarm­ing, nor will there be many that Year; but if it be mild and calm with gentle Showers, they will Swarm early and the oftner; about mid May in 40 an early and kindly Spring they may begin, and then comes in your care to look after them; but you may have timely notice of their Swarming by observing these Signs. They will hover about the Doors in cold Evenings and Mornings, and in sultry hot Mornings, and Evenings they will hang out; they will run hastily up and down, cast out their Drones, and there will be a moistness upon the Stool. Also if the Weather be hot and gloo­my, and after a Shower or gloomy Cloud hath 50 sent them home, and that they hang out toge­ther, then expect a suddain Swarming.

But on the contrary, if they continually lye forth, especially about mid June, 'tis a Sign of their not Swarming; Also much stormy and win­dy Weather obstructs their Swarming, although they are ready, and causeth them to lye out; the like doth Weather that hath been very hot and dry, for some continuance.

Now for the causing them to Swarm, keep 60 the Hives as cool as possible, by watering the Ground near them, by shading the Hives, by enlarging the Doors to give them Air, and by forcing them into the Hives gently with a Brush, suffering them not to cluster together.

As concerning the Signs of After-swarming, there is more certainty to be observed; for when the Prime Swarm is gone, about nine or ten Even­ings after, when another Brood is ready, the Hive being overcharged with them, the next Prince begins to tune in a treble voyce, and in a day or two after the old Queen will make her re­ply in a base Note, as it were declaring her con­sent for their Swarming. In the Morning before they Swarm they come down near the Stool, and there call some what longer, and at the time of their Swarming they come down to the Stool, and beginning their Notes more thicker and shril­ler, they all come forth in great hast.

If the Prime Swarm be broken, the second will both call and swarm the sooner, probably the next day, and after that a third, and sometimes a fourth, and all within a Fortnights Space.

Sometimes a Swarm will cast another that Year; but if late, 'tis not worth the keeping, ac­cording to the old Rhime,

A Swarm in July,
Is not worth a Fly.

It is customary when Bees Swarm, to make a tinkling Noyse upon a Bason, Kettle, Pan or the like, thereby the better to gather them to settle; but by the Judicious and such as have made trials concerning the same, 'tis found very idle and foolish, rather causing them to fly away; for all great Noyses are offensive to them; there­fore your business should be only to watch their setling, and if they fly aloft and are like to be gone, then cast up Dust amongst them to make them come down.

The Swarm being setled, as it were like a Cluster of Grapes, and the Hive well rub'd with sweet Herbs, &c. shake them off the Bough into the Hive, which should be of a fit Size answerable to the bigness of the Swarm to fill it that Year; and having a Sheet, or such like Cloth spread upon the Ground, set the Hive thereon, for some time, until the Bees are setled therein; or if the the Bough is small on which they Swarm, you may cut it off, and put it into the Hive under the Sheet, as aforesaid.

If the Swarm separate, and light in two places, but in sight of one another, disturb the lesser parcel, and they will fly to the rest; but if not in sight, then Hive them in two Hives; then bring them together, and shake the Bees out of one of the Hives on the Sheet whereon the o­ther Hive stands, and place the other Hive on them, and they will take to it.

When Swarms come late, and are but small, 'tis convenient to unite them, by which means they will be more industrious in their labour. The manner of uniting them is thus; Place the Hive, whereing you have newly put your Swarm you intend to drive into another, in a place that the Skirts may be uppermost, and set the other upon him, binding them about the Skirts with a long Towel, and so let them stand until Morn­ing, and the Bees will all ascend, that you may the next Morning set the Receiver on a Stool, and after this manner you may put two or three Swarms together; but be sure to unite them the same Evening, or the next at furthest that they Swarm.

[Page 268] For preserving your self from stinging in the time of Swarming, the best and surest way is to be provided with a Net made of fine Thread or Silk, with a close Mesh, which cast over your Head, Hat and all, compassing your Face; and for your Hands have on Gloves. And if not­withstanding you happen to be stung, pull out the Sting as soon as possible, and for the asswag­ing the swelling, heat a piece of Iron red 10 hot, and hold it as near to the place grieved as possible, and for as long a continuance as you can endure it, and it will attract out that fiery Venom caused by the Sting. But the most com­mon way is to rub the Wound with the leaves of House-leek, Mallows, Mary-golds, Rue, Holly-hock and Vinegar, or Salt and Vinegar; but none of these are so good.

As soon as a Swarm hath entred the Hive, they lose no time, but begin to work and gather 20 Wax for the building their Combs, so that it is a Sight worthy to be seen to observe how these poor Creaturs frame their curious Workmanship; which may be done, if put into transparent or Glass Hives, or in Wooden Hives that have Glass Windows.

The best Season to remove an old Stock of Bees, is about Michaelmass, that is, a little before and a little after; also about the end of Febru­ary, or begining of March at the latest. Let the 30 time be in the Evening, when all the Bees are quiet, and when the Weather is fair. The Hive must be put on a Board, and gently car­ried to the place where it is to be set, for jog­ging Spoyls the Hive, loosning the Combs, and dis­turbing the Bees.

It oft times happens, that through a cold, dry and unseasonable Spring, as also by a cold and early Winter, that Bees will not have a Stock of Honey sufficient to keep them.40

In this case they must be fed, and the best Food is Honey mixt with sweet Wort, which must be conveyed into the Hives by small Canes or Troughs dayly, until the approaching Summer affords them provision abroad. Instead of Ho­ney you may give them Sugar. Some gives them Toasts of Bread sopt in Ale; others dry Meal, or Flower of Beans.

There are several things very offensive and in­jurious to Bees, as Smoak, ill Scents and Smells, 50 Noyse, ill Weather, as Winds, Cold, Heat, and Rain, which may be prevented by well placing the Apiary; Noysom Creatures, as Spiders, Snails, Frogs, Toads, Moths, &c. and devour­ing Creaturs and Insects, as Birds, Mice, Wasps, and Hornets are also injurious to them.60

CHAP. XIII.
Of External Injuries amongst Cattle, and other Inconvenien­cies that happen to the Hus­bandman, with Remedies for the same.

Injuries sustained by Beasts and Vermine.

FOXES are found very pernitious in killing and taking away Geese, Poultrey, and oft times young Lambs, especially near Woods and Forests; so that such things can hard­ly escape them.

Now for the taking this subtile Creature di­vers Inventions are used, as by Traps, Gins, Snares, &c. as well as by Dogs, which having treated thereof in Hunting, I shall omit it here.

POLE-CATS, FITCHETS, WEA­SELS, and the like Vermin, are great Enemies to the Hen-Roosts, Dove-House, and Warren; for taking and destroying of all which suffici­ent Directions are given in the XIX. Chapter in Hunting.

RATS and MICE are great Enemies, not only in the Houses, Granaries, Barns, and Stables; but also in the Gardens, Orchards, and Fields.

For destroying them within-Doors, Traps are very good; also Baits of Arsenick, or the Roots of white Hellebore, mixt with Sugar, and laid in their Holes or Haunts are very good; but that which is more effectual, seldom or never failing, is white Arsnick beaten to fine Powder, which use as followeth: Take Raysons of the Sun, split and dip them in the Arsnick, and so close them again. Also, Take Apples Codled, and the soft Pap mix with the Arsnick together with Sugar: Likewise, Take some Hogs-Lard, Flower of Malt and Arsnick mixt together; to each of these three things put a little quantity into an Oyster­shell, lay them in such places where the Rats come, and it will certainly destroy them.

For destroying Field-Mice, so injurious to Gar­dens in eating and spoiling the Wall-Fruit, as also the Beans, Pease, and the like, observe these Di­rections: Get a piece of a Deal-Board, which cut into thin slices, make them pretty smooth; then cut twenty pieces six Inches long, and as many three Inches long, and as many two Inches long; then cut a Notch in the side of that piece six Inches long, about two Inches from the end, and a cross Notch upon the flat side within half an Inch of the end; then the other of two Inches, to cut it taper at one end, and a cross Notch on the Flat side made within half an Inch of the end; then the Stick that is two Inches and an half must be taper at one end, that so the cross Notch may in the Stick of two Inches rest upon the top of the [Page 269] two Inches and an half; and then the two Inches must at the Taper end go into the Stick that is six Inches, and the Notch of the side will be a stay to hold up the Tiles; then take forty Tiles, and they will serve for the twenty Traps, and fit them as near as you can to fall close together; Then take the three Sticks, the six Inch, the three and the two Inch Sticks, and place the three Inch Stick to the edge of the undermost bot­tom Tile; then take the two Inch Stick, and 10 place the Notch of it upon the Taper end of the three Notch Stick; then take the six Inch Stick, and set the Taper end of the two Inch Stick in the Notch that is at the end of the six Inch Stick; then the Notch of the side of the six Inches must hook into the side of the three Inch Stick, otherwise the weight of the Tile will make the Sticks fly all apart; if it stand when it is set exactly like a Figure of 4, you shall see every part in the Frontice-piece. You 20 must bait the end of the six Inch Stick with Lard, and dip it into Oatmeal, and bait but the uppermost side; then having set them all along the Hedges, or Wall-sides, you will find good store taken of them, for the Traps seldom miss: And in those Traps where Mice are taken, when you set them again, you should Bait them a­fresh with Lard and Oatmeal, as aforesaid.

These Traps are very good to take Titmice, which is a very destructive Bird to the Buds of 30 Trees, as also to Wall-Fruit.

MOLES, or WANTS, are great Enemies to Gardens, Meadows, and Corn-fields; they are to be taken with Traps, which are to be placed in the Moles Road, Passage, or Trench; and of these Traps there are several sorts, but the best is thus made: Take a piece of Board about three Inches broad, and five Inches long, with the ends made Taperwise; on one side six two small Sticks like round Arches, at each end one, large 40 enough for a Mole to go through; in the midst of the Board make a Hole large enough to re­ceive a Goose-Quill, into which a Peg of about two Inches long is to be put. You must also be provided with a Hazle Stick, or some other bending Wood of about a Yard and an half long, which is to be stuck in the Ground with a Link of Horse-hair tyed to it; and before you fix the Trap into the Moles Passage, put the Hair-Spring through the Hole in the midst of the 50 Board, and place it round even with the Hoops, and with the said Peg (gently put into the Hole to stop the Knot of the Hair-Spring;) then make the Trap fast down by hooked long Sticks thrust into the Earth, to the end that the Spring-Stick may not draw up the Trap; and the Trap must be exactly covered over with Earth, that there may be no Light appear in the said Trench; And when the Mole passeth that way, by thru­sting out the said Peg that hangs loosly perpen­dicular 60 downwards, and the Knot passing through the Hole, the Mole is become ensnared with the Spring.

After this Method you may set what quantity of Traps your Ground requires, which should be tended every day Morning and Evening at their Working times, to see what are taken, and that the Traps may be set again, for in one Pas­sage seven or eight may be taken without re­moving the Trap.

Another way to take Moles.

HAving taken a Doe-Mole, get a large Earthen Pot, and having made a Hole in the mid­dle of the main Trench, or Passage; set the Pot that the top may be even with the bottom of the Trench; then fill it about half full with Mould, and put some great Worms therein for the Mole to live upon, and cover the Pot very close that no Light come therein; and the Buck-Mole will not fall to visit the Doe in the Pot, especi­ally if it be set about March, which is their Bucking-time; for then 'tis said they will run about a quarter of a Mile after a Doe, and by this means (with the help of a few Pots) all the Bucks will be taken.

If you Fume the Trenches with Brimstone, Garlick, and the like unsavoury things, the Moles will forsake the Ground. The like they will do, if you put a dead Mole into their Trenches.

The usual places for their Beds and Haunts, are in Banks, and near Hedge-rows.

Mole-Ketchers are very expert in taking them in the Mornings and Evenings, when they stir, only with their Paddle-Staves.

Injurious Fowl and Insects.

THe Crows, Rooks, and Daws; as also Spar­rows, Titmice, Bulfinches, and the like small Birds, destroy much Corn, as also Cherries; the like do Jayes and Magpies. There are divers Inventions to destroy them; which are taken notice of in the Treatise of Fowling.

Kites and wild Hawks oft-times kill the Chickens.

Snails, Slugs, Wasps, Ants, Hornets, Ear-wigs, Caterpillars, Ants, Snakes, and like, are also very pernicious to the Husbandman; but they may easily be destroyed with a little care and pains.

Injuries sustained by the Heavens.

HIgh Winds are very pernicious to Fruits, Trees, Corn, Hops, Buildings, &c. especially in plain, open, and high Countries; for a defence from which, the Elm (or other high Trees) is a great shelter to Houses; and for Fruits and Hops good Walls, Pales, and Hedges, are a Preservative; and for Corn, there is no better way than good Hedge-Rows and Enclosures, as before treated of.

Thunder, Tempests, Hail and Lightning are great enemies to the Husbandman in divers re­spects, which being so well known are unnecessa­ry to be named.

Blighting and Mildews prove oft times fatal to Corn; but if a good Shower of Rain immediately follows, or that the Wind blow stiffly, it washeth or shaketh it off. But this Ill-conveniency doth most attend Inclosures. Also the Sowing of Wheat early is a great prevention of Mildews: And [Page 270] Bearded Wheat is not subject thereto, as other sorts are.

Great and hasty Rains are very pernicious to Corn-Ground, especially to such that lye low, and at the bottom of Hills, for which it is good to make Water-Courses, or Drains, to carry it away: And a wet Harvest is very bad, not only as to Expences, but as to the spoyling the Corn, which the better to prevent observe the old Proverb, To make Hay whilst the Sun shines. And let the 10 Corn be well shock'd up, which will very much preserve it from a Shower of Rain.

Violent and long Frosts are very prejudicial in several respects, especially to forward Fruits, Seeds, and Plants in the Spring. Also some Lands (as cold Clayey Ground) are more subject to suffer by bitter Frosts, than those that lye on a warm Sand, or Gravel; also those that lye moist, more than those that lye dry; and those that lye on the North and East sides of Hills, 20 more than those that lye on the South and West. And as a Remedy for this, Inclosures are very good, being a great preservative to Corn, Trees, Plants, &c.

Also Horse-Dung laid to the Roots of young and tender Trees, and Plants, is a great preser­vative against pinching Frosts. Likewise Straw, Hawm, Fern, or Furz, will very much defend any thing from Frosts. Also Mat, or Canvass, is very good to preserve Beds of tender Plants, or 30 Flowers, being arched over with Sticks, and the said Mat, or Canvass, laid upon it. The like it is for Hot-Beds, for the raising of Seeds in the Spring.

Fruit gathered into the House is subject to great damage by Frosts, so that to prevent this mischief in a great measure cast Straw over them.

This Kingdom is much subject to Heat and Drought in the Summer Season, so that to many 40 Seats Water is much wanting, all standing Pools being then dryed up, insomuch that Cattle are drove to Water a considerable distance to some Spring or River; and no Water for the Houshold Affairs, but what is brought by a Cart, which is very troublesom. Now to prevent this, where no Springs can be found by digging of Wells, make Cisterns which may be capacious enough to hold as great a quantity of Water as you think fit, which will easily be filled, be it never so big in the Winter.

For the making these Cisterns, make a Bed of good Clay, and lay thereon Bricks for the Floor; then raise the Wall round about, leaving a con­venient space betwixt the Bricks and the Earth, to ram in Clay as fast as the Wall is made; but be sure let the Bed of Clay be of a good thick­ness, and well tempered, that the Clay chop not, for then it is spoiled, and will not hold Water.

CHAP. XIV.
A KALENDAR, or Monthly Directions to the Husband­man.

THere is a peculiar time to be observed for the most Affairs in the World, but espe­cially for such that depend upon the mutable Seasons of the Year, being the essential part of AGRICVLTVRE, insomuch that every Hus­bandman should have his Chart, or Draught, to steer by, and to reinforce his Memory, so that the multiplicity of his Affairs may not occasion his forgetting those things that are necessary to be undertaken, always observing the Proverb, To take Time by the Fore-lock, for Time let slip can't be recalled, so that it is a great negligence to be too late; and you shall rarely find a thriving HVSBANDMAN to be behind with his Affairs, for if you expect a Reward of your Labours, Plow, Sow, and Reap in due Season. But to proceed to the Monthly Kalendar, beginning with January.

[Page 271]

 Sun-Rise.Sun-Set.JANUARY 31 Days.
 H. M.H. M. 
1New-Years  
2Day.  
3   
48. 004. 00Castor and Pollux riseth in the Evening.
5   
6Twelf-day.  
7   
8   
9   
10Sun in A­quarius. Lucida Corona, or the Crown, is with the Sun.
11   
12  The Dog-Star riseth in the Evening.
13   
14   
15   
167. 454. 15 
17   
18   
19   
20   
21   
22   
23   
247. 30.4. 30. 
25St. Paul.  
26   
27   
28   
29   
30   
317. 154. 45 

10
20
30

A Frosty January is seasonable, although it proves the Rich mans charge, and the Poor mans misery.

Now it is time to Plow, or Fallow the Ground designed for Pease, Beans, or Oats; and if the Wea­ther be Mild, sow forward Pease, and set Garden-Beans, digging or trenching your Garden Ground,40 to make it mellow for your Crop in the Spring, if your time did not permit you in December.

Now it is good time to water Meadows, and Marsh Grounds, and to drain Arable Lands by cutting Water-Furrows.

If the Season be Hard and Frosty, carry out your Dung on your Land, laying it on Heaps until the Weather be mild and open.

Lop and Top Trees, and cut your Coppices and Hedge-rows. 50

In open Weather remove and plant Trees and Vines, dig and trench Gardens, lay up your Bor­ders, uncover the Roots of such Trees that re­quire it, putting Soil unto them. Also Prune your Vines and Trees, Nail and trim Wall-Fruits, cleanse Trees from Moss and Succors, gather Cions for Grafts, and stick them in the Ground until Grafting time. Make Hot-Beds, and Sow your choice Sallads, also Colly-flowers, &c. secure your choice Flowers and Plants from the Cold by 60 Covers, Straw, or Dung. Earth up the Roots of such Plants that the Frost hath uncovered. Set Quicksets. Hedge and Ditch; Cut away Ant-hills. House your weanling Calves and Colts. Be careful of your Ews and Lambs. Set Traps to destroy Vermin. Dig Weedy Hop-Grounds, remove Bees, and turn up Bee-Hives, and sprinkle them with sweet warm Wort.

 Sun-Rise.Sun-Set.FEBRUARY 28, or 29 Days.
 H. M.H. M. 
1  Cor Leonis riseth in the Evening.
2Candlemass  
3   
4   
5   
6   
7   
87. 005. 00Sun in Pisces.
9   
10   
11   
12   
13   
14Valentine  
15   
166. 455. 45Cor Hydrae riseth in the Evening.
17   
18  The Lions Tail riseth in the Evening.
19   
20  Fomahant is with the Sun.
21   
22   
236. 305. 30 
24Matthias  
25   
26   
27   
28   
29   

This is a busie Month for sowing of Pease, Beans, Tares, and Oats, being the principal Season for Lenten Grain. Carry out Dung, and spread it before the Plough; but for Pasture Grounds that are wet, chuse the hard Frosts. Make hast to Plant such Trees that your occasions would not permit you in January, for now the Sap riseth up, and then it is too late: You may also yet plant Quick-sets. Set Osiers, Poplars, Willows, and other Aquaticks, this being a very good Season. If the Season is mild sow Hemp-seed, as also Mustard-seed. Cleanse your Ground from Moles before breeding time, which is March, and spread the Mole-hills. This is seasonable for cutting Coppices, Lopping of Trees and plashing of Quick-sets. If the Weather is temperate Graft your forward Fruits, and cleanse Fruit-Trees from Moss and Cankers. Cut not your tender Wall-Fruit until the Frosts are over. Trim up your Pallisade-Hedges and Espaliers. Lay Branches to take Root. Set Nuts, Fruit-Stones, and Kernels, with other hard Seeds. Towards the mid­dle, or latter end of the Month sow Carots, Pars­nips, Onions, Sallating, Parsly, Spinage, and other hard Seeds; plant Cabages, Liquorice; plant out Colly-flowers into Warm-Beds. Make up Hot-Beds for Cucumbers, Melons, &c. Sow Asparagus. Gather off the Snails from the Wall-fruit, set Traps for taking Bull-finches that destroy the Buds of Fruit-Trees. Plant Hops if the Weather be mild, and dress them that are out of heart. You may yet remove Bees, and half open their Passages. This Month is good to few Fish-Ponds, and to take Fish.

[Page 272]

 Sun-Rise.Sun-Set.MARCH 31 Days.
 H. M.H. M. 
1David  
26. 155. 45 
3   
4   
5   
6   
7   
8   
9   
106. 006. 00Sun in Aries. Aequinoctial.
11   
12  Arcturus riseth in the E­vening.
13   
14   
15   
16   
17    20
185. 456. 15Calf of the right Leg of Bootes riseth in the E­vening.
19   
20   
21   
22   
23  Spica Virginis rises in the Evening.
24   
255. 306. 30Lady Day.
26   
27    30
28   
29  Second Star in the Left Wing of Virgo riseth in the Evening.
30   
31   

10

This Month ushers in the welcom Spring, and if it prove dry, is esteemed ominous of a happy year for Corn. In this Mouth and the next sow all sorts of French Grasses, or Hay-seed, and if the Weather be temperate Flax and Hemp. It is 40 also the principal Season for Oats, Barley, Pease, &c. Also sow Carots, Parsnips, Turnips, Cabage-seeds, Parsley, Skirrets, Onions, Leeks, Garlick, Spinage, Purs­laine, Lettuce, Raddish, Sallery, Smallage, Endive, Suc­cory, Marygolds, with divers other Summer Herbs. You may transplant most sorts of sweet Herbs, and Summer Flowers. Make your Hot Beds for Melons, and Cucumbers. Dress up and string your Strawberry-Beds. Uncover Asparagus-Beds, and transplant them. Slip and plant Artichoaks, and 50 Liquorice. Plant all Garden-Herbs and Flowers that have fibrous Roots. And such choice Flowers that are not natural for our Climate sow in Hot-Beds. Now is a good time to plant Madder, and Saffron. As also Hops, and to dress them up. Sow Pine-Kernels, and the Seeds of all Winter Greens: Also Pinks and Carnations. This is the principal Season for Grafting all sorts of Fruit-Trees, and cover the Roots of such Trees that you laid open in the Winter. Carry Dung into your Gardens, and 60 Orchards. Destroy what Moles you could not in February. It is yet seasonable to set Osiers, Willows, and the like Aquaticks. Lay up your Meadows and Pastures designed to Mow, and keep up your Fences. If the Weather be dry, Rowl your Wheat. 'Tis a good Season to Lop Trees, and fell Coppices And this is the best Season to raise the best Brood Poultrey.

 Sun-Rise.Sun-Set.APRIL 30 Days.
 H. M.H. M. 
1   
25. 156. 45 
3   
4   
5   
6   
7   
8   
95. 007. 00 
10Sun in Tau­rus.  
11   
12  Canda Leonis Sets in the Morning.
13   
14   
15   
16   
174. 457. 15 
18   
19   
20   
21   
22   
23St. George.  
24   
25St. Mark.  
264. 307. 30Virgiliae, or the Pleiades, rises with the Sun.
27   
28   
29   
30   

If the Spring is forward, cleanse and rid away the Wood from the Coppices, and fence them in to preserve them from Cattle. It is now seasona­ble to Fell such Timber you intend to Bark. If the Season is dry Fallow your Ground, cleanse and scour your Ditches, and make hast to sow your French Seeds that you could not do in March; and you may also sow Hemp and Flax in the beginning of this Month. Now is a good Season to sow all Garden Seeds, if the Weather is dry: and when it is wet, plant your Garden Herbs, and sow such tender Seeds that can't en­dure the cold Frosts. Sow Cucumbers and Melons; set Artichoaks, French-Beans, and English-Beans. In the beginning of this Month Graft some sorts of Fruit in the Stock Gather up Snails and Slugs after Evening Showers, as also early in the Mornings. Sow your Annual Flowers that come of Seed, that you may have Flowers all the Summer: Also sow the Seeds of Winter-Greens, and transplant such Flowers with fibrous Roots that were left unremoved in March. You may now set forth your tender Greens, that are kept in your Conservatory in the Winter, except O­range Trees, and those bring not forth till May. Also transplant and remove your Jasimines, Myr­tles, and the like tender Greens: And towards the end of the Month, if the Weather be mild, clip your Phillyrea, and transplantany sort of Winter Greens. Plant Hops, and Pole them. Lay open your Bees to gather the sweets of the Flowers.

[Page 273]

 Sun-Rise.Sun-set.MAY 31 Days.
 H. M.H. M. 
1Phil. and Jacob Cor Scorpionis Sets in the Morning.
2   
3  The Great Dog-Star in the Evening.
4   
5   
64. 157. 45  10
7   
8   
9  The Goat-Star appears.
10   
11Sun in Ge­mini  
12  Aldebran Sets in the E­vening.
13   
14  Fomahant rises in the Morn­ing.
15   
164. 008. 00 
17  Middle Stat of Andromeda's 20 Girdle Sets with the Sun.
18   
19   
20   
21   
22  Cor Scorpionis rises in the Evening.
23   
24   
25   
263. 508. 10 
27    30
28   
29  The Bulls Eye rises with the Sun.
30   
31   

This oft proves the pleasantest Month in the Year; the Fields and Trees being in their Sum­mer Liveries, and Birds chant out their pleasant Notes to the welcoming in the Spring.

If this Month proves seasonable and cool, it rejoyceth the Countrymans Heart in expectation 40 of a happy Autumn; but if hot, it denotes Sick­ness to ensue. If your Corn be to rank, Mow it, or Feed it down, with Sheep.

It is a good time to wean Lambs, whose Ewes you intend to milk. Cutting or Crop­ping of Trees, hinders them from thriving.

You may sow Buck-Wheat this Month, as also later Pease, and set later Garden Beans. Weed your Quick-Sets. Drain wet and Marshy Grounds.

Turn out your weanling Calves to Grass. Twi­fallow 50 your Ground, get home your Fewel, cleanse your Ground from Broom, Furz, Goss, and the like: and grub up such Coppices and Hedgrows as you intend should not grow again. Sell off your Winter-fed Cattle, look after your Sheep if the Weather proves rainy, for fear of the Rot.

About the end of the Month Mow your Clo­ver, St. Foy [...], and other French Grasses. Plant all sorts of Winter Greens.

Sow sweet Marjarom, Thime, Basil, hot Aro­matick 60 Herbs, and Plants, and such like tender Seeds. Also set Sage and Rosemary. Sow Pur­celain, and Lettuce; also French Beans; and uncover your Melons and Cucumbers, excepting in Glasses.

Take up such Tulips that are dryed in the Stalk. Watch your Bees ready to swarm, and bind up the Hops to the Poles, and make up the Hills after Rain.

 Sun-Rise.Sun Set.JUNE hath 30 Days.
 H. M.H. M 
1   
2   
33. 458. 15 
4   
5   
6   
7   
8  The Head of Costor rises in the Morning before the Sun.
9   
103. 438. 17 
11Barnabas Sun in Cancer Solstice.
12   
13   
14  Arcturus sets in the Morn­ing.
15   
16   
17  Hydra's Heart sets in the Evening.
18   
19   
203. 458. 15 
21   
22   
23   
24Jo. Baptist  
25   
26   
27   
28   
29St. Peter The Right Foot of Gemini sets in the Morning.
303. 308. 10 

This Month is the principal Season for washing and sharing Sheep: And now begins the Husband­mans Hay-Harvest in high forward Meadows. Fal­low your Wheat-land, which will kill the Weeds, and mellow the Ground. And cleanse and scow­er your Ponds and Ditches from the Mud, the Sea­son being now warm to endure the Water. Fetch home your Fewel before your Teem is employed in Harvest affairs. Weed your Corn, sow Rape, and Cole-seed, as also Turnep-seed. Have a great care to your Sheep for fear of the Rot, for Mil­dews, and Hony-dews begin to fall. Gather Snails, Slugs, and Worms; and destroy Ants and other Vermin. 'Tis a good time now to Inoculate, and to pluck off the Buds where you would not have the Trees branch forth. Water such Trees that you planted late, laying Weeds or Stones at the Roots to keep them moist. Plant July-Flowers, and Rosemary, set Saffron, sow latter Sallading. In­oculate Jasamine, Roses, &c. gather Seeds that are ripe, and preserve them that are cool and dry. Wa­ter the dry Beds. Take up your Bulbous Roots of Tulips, Anemonies, &c. and transplant them. Dig such Ground as you design for a Hop-ground, and bind such Hops to the Poles that the Wind hath shaken off. Be careful of yours Bees, this Month being the principal time of their swarming. And now is the time to distil Waters, to dry Herbs for the Winter; and to make Syrups, &c.

[Page 274]

 Sun-Rise.Sun Set.JULY 31 Days.
 H. M.H. M. 
1  First Star of Orions Belt rises with the Sun.
2Visitation of Mary.  
3   
4   
5   
6   
7    10
84. 008. 00 
9   
10   
11   
12   
13Sun in Leo. Lucida Corona rises in the Evening.
14   
15St. Swithin  
16    20
17   
184. 157. 45 
19Dog Days.  
20Margaret. Lesser Dog-Star rises with the Sun.
21   
22Mary Mag.  
23   
24   
25St. James.  
26   
27    30
284. 307. 30 
29  Greater Dog-Star rises with the Sun.
30   
31  Syrius rises in the Morning.

This Month and August is the Husbandmans busy time, Hay Harvest admitting no delay, es­pecially if fair Weather offers.

Gather your earliest Hemp and Flax.

Sow Turnep-Seeds: Towards the latter end of 40 this Month, your Rye will be ripe, especially if the Year is forward.

In this Month Wheat and Hops are much sub­ject to Mildews.

It is now very good time to Inoculate choise Fruits, Roses, &c.

Cut off the Stocks of such Flowers that have done blossoming, and cover their Roots with new rich Mould.

Cleanse your Wall Fruit from Snails. 50

Sow latter Sallading. Slip Stocks, and lay Ju­ly-Flowers and Carnations for encrease, watering them, and keeping them from the hear of the Sun; also lay Myrtle and other curious Greens.

Graft by approach, and Inoculate Jasimines, Oranges, &c. Transplant and remove Tulips, and the like Bulbous Roots.

Streighten the entrance of your Bees, kill the Drones, Wasps, Flyes, &c. that annoy them.60

 Sun-Rise.Sun-Set.AUGUST 31 Days
 H. M.H. M. 
1Lammas Orion appears in the Morn­ing.
2Day.  
3   
4   
5   
64. 457. 15 
7   
8   
9  Cor Leonis rises in the Morning with the Sun.
10Laurence.  
11   
12   
135. 007. 00Sun in Virgo.
14   
15   
16   
17   
18   
19   
20   
215. 156. 45 
22   
23   
24St. Bartho­lomew. Cauda Leonis rises in the Morning with the Sun.
25   
26(end.  
27Dog Days  
285. 306. 30 
29   
30   
31   

This Month is the Husbandmans great expence for the bringing in of his Harvest; and if it prove dry and free from high Winds, great part of his disbursments will be abated to Labourers; besides, the great advantage gained by having the Corn dry cut and housed. You may yet Twy-fallow, and carry on your Dung for your Winter Corn, laying it in heaps to be spread before the Plough. This is a good Season for gelding of Lambs; and such Ewes and Cows that you design not to keep for store, put to fatting. About the end of this Month you may Mow your Rowen, or After-Marth Grass, also your Clover, and other French Grasses will be fit to cut again. This is a good Month to make Cider of Summer Fruits that will not keep. The begin­ing of this Month is very good to Inoculate in, and to unbind the Buds of those before Inoculated, if taken Sap. Pull up the Suckers from the Roots of Trees, prune away superfluous Branches from your Wall Fruit-Trees, but leave not the Fruit bare, ex­cept the red Nectorine, which is much meliorated by its being exposed to the Sun. Set Slips of July-Flowers; Transplant Flowers and Garden Plants as Herbs, Strawberrys, &c. gather Seeds of Flowers and Herbs. Sow Cabages, Colly-Flowers, Turneps, and other Roots and Plants for the Winter, and a­gainst the next Spring. Also sow such Seeds that will endure the Winter. About Bartholomew-Tide is a good Season to transplant all Bulbous Roots; as also Winter Greens. Gather Hops, look after your Bees, and streighten their passages to secure them from Wasps, and those that you intend not to keep, destroy for their Honey.

[Page 275]

 Sun-Rise.Sun Set.SEPTEMBER 30 Days.
 H. M.H. M. 
1   
2   
3   
4   
55. 456. 15 
6   
7    10
8Nativity of Virgin  
9   
10Mary.  
11  Arcturus Sets after the Sun.
12   
136. 006. 00Sun in Lira, Equinocti­al.
14Holy Cross  
15   
16   
17   
18    20
19   
206. 155. 45 
21St. Mathew  
22   
23   
24   
25  Spica Virginis is with the Sun.
26   
276. 305. 30  30
28   
29St. Michael Plejades Rises in the E­vening.
30   

Gentle Showers are now acceptable for the mellowing the Earth for the Plough, the Wheat-Seed Season being now; but dry and calm Wea­ther is best for the gathering your Winter-Fruits now ripe; for according to Observation, Sow Wheat in the Dirt, and Rye in the Dust. Geld 40 Cattle; put your Boars up to fat: Sew your Fish-ponds; beat out Hemp-seed; and Water your Hemp. Gather Masts; and put your Swine into the Woods: Carry out what Dung you have to be spread on your Wheat-Land before the Plough.

'Tis a good Season to make Cider and Perry of such Fruits that will not keep, or such that are bruised, or the like, in the gathering; but let your long lasting Winter-Fruit hang on the Trees till Michaelmass. Sow Cabages, Colly-Flowers, Turn­ips, Onions, &c. and transplant such Cabages, and 50 Colly-Flowers that were sown in August; also trans­plant Asparagus Roots, Artichoaks, and Strawberries. Hoe your Turnips, plant Tulips and other Bulbous Roots that you formerly took up; you may also transplant all Fibrous Roots. Be careful of your choise Plants, and Winter Green, setting them in your Conservatory.

This Month puts an end to your gathering and drying your Hops, cleansing the Poles from the 60 Hawm, and to set them up for the next Year.

Look after your Bees, destroy the Wasps, &c. streighten the Entrances into their Hives, and de­stroy those that you intend not to keep, taking away their Honey.

 Sun-Rise.Sun-set.OCTOBER 31 Days.
 H. M.H. M. 
1   
2  Spica Virginis Rises in the Morning with the Sun.
3   
46. 455. 15 
5   
6   
7   
8   
9   
10   
11   
127. 005. 00 
13   
14Sun in Scor­pio  
15   
16   
17   
18St. Luke. Cauda Leonis sets in the Evening.
19   
207. 154. 45 
21   
22   
23   
24   
25Crispine.  
26   
27   
28   
297. 304. 30 
30   
31   

This Month proves generally Windy, and fi­nisheth the Fall of the Leaf.

It is yet a good Seed-time for Wheat, and you may sow your Hotspurs on rich and warm Ground for a forward Crop.

Lay up your Barly-Land dry, water-furrow, and drain your new sown Wheat-Ground.

The time is seasonable for sowing of Nuts, A­corns; as also other Berries, or Masts for Coppices or Hedgrows.

Plant Quick-sets, and plash your Quick-set Hed­ges. You may also begin to set Trees.

Wean your Colts foaled of your working Mares at the Spring, and fell off such Sheep that you design not to keep.

This is a good time for making Cider and Perry of your Winter-Fruits, and finish the gathering of such like Fruits.

Sow all sorts of Fruit-Kernels, Stones and Nuts, as well for Trees as Stocks. Cut and prune Rose-Trees.

Plant your Bulbous Roots of any sort, and re­move Flowers and Herbs with Fibrous Roots, if the former Season was omitted.

Plant Hops, and bag up those you dryed the former Month.

'Tis a good Season for removing Bees.

Trench the stiffer sorts of Ground for Orchar­ding, and Gardening to lye mellow in the Winter; lay open the Roots of old and unthriving Trees, or such that spend themselves too much, or too soon in Blossoms.

[Page 276]

 Sun-Rise.Sun-Set.NOVEMBER 30 Days.
 H. M.H. M. 
1Alhallon day.  
2   
3   
4   
5   
67. 454. 15Leonard.
7    10
8   
9   
10  Virgiliae, or the Seven Stars, sets in the Morning.
11Martinmas  
12Sun in Sa­gitarius. The Bulls-Eye sets in the Morning.
13   
14   
15   
168. 004. 00Edmund.
17    20
18   
19   
20   
21   
22   
23  Cor Scorpij rises in the Morning.
24   
25   
268. 103. 50The Bulls-Eye rises in the Evening.
27    30
28  The middle Star of An­dromeda's Girdle rises in the Morning.
29   
30   

Seed-time is now well over, and the Markets begin to fill with Corn. Fat your Swine for slaughter. Cast out your Mushy Straw in moist places to rot for Dung. Plant Timber and Fruit-Trees, if the Weather be open. Fell Coppices, and Lop Trees; break Flax and Hemp; destroy Ant-hills; 40 trench and dig up Gardens, and sow for­ward Pease. Furnish your Nursery with Stocks against the Spring. Prune your Fruit-Trees, and cleanse them from Moss. Cider may be made of hard Fruits, that are not pulpy. Sow Nuts and Fruit-Stones. If the Weather is open plant Tulips; also Roses, and several other Plants and Flowers; and those Seedlings, or Layers that are tender, should be covered with Straw, Matresses, Boxes, or the like. Carry Dung into your Hop-Garden to mix 50 with Earth to rot against the Spring. Lay up Parsnips, Carots, Cabbages, Colly-flowers, &c. either for use, or to transplant for Seed at the Spring. Cover your Asparagus-Beds, Artichoaks, Straw­berries, and tender Plants with long Dung, or Horse-Litter, to preserve them from Frosts. Now is a good time to dig up Liquorice.

 Sun-Rise.Sun-Set.DECEMBER 31 Days
 H. M.H. M. 
1   
2   
38. 153. 45Right Foot of Gemini sets in the Morning.
4   
5  The lesser Dog-Star sets in the Morning.
6   
7   
8   
9   
10   
11   
128. 173. 43Sun in Capricorn Solstice.
13   
14  Arcturus sets in the Even­ing.
15   
16   
17  Cor Hydrae sets in the Morning.
18   
19   
208. 153. 45 
21St. Thomas.  
22   
23   
24   
25Christmass. Right Shoulder of Orion rises in the Evening.
26St. Stephen.  
278. 103. 50St. John Evangelist.
28Innocents.  
29   
30  The Left Foot of Gemini rises in the Evening.
31   

Now begins the Country mans chargeable time for Housing his Cattle, or foddering them abroad. Lop Trees, and fell Coppices; plant all sorts of Trees, as well Fruits as others, provided they are such as shed their Leaves. Let Horses Blood; fat Cattle, and Swine. Destroy Ant-hills, overflow Meadows, and drain your Corn-fields by cutting Water-furrows. It is a good time to Plow for Pease, or Beans. Prune your Vines, if the Weather be open. Keep your Asparagus Beds covered, as directed in November; the like ob­serve for you Artichoaks, and Strawberries. Trench and dig your Garden Ground to Mellow the Earth against the Spring; and if the Wea­ther be Mild sow Pease, and set Beans for for­ward Crops. Set Traps for destroying Vermin, and pick the Snails away from your Wall-Fruit-Trees. Dig up Liquorice, feed the Stocks of Bees that are weak, and cleanse your Hop-Gardens from Weeds.

OF THE FIGHTING-COCK.
Which treats of the Choise, Ordering, Breeding, and Dieting of Cocks for Battle.

FOR the perfecting of this Work, since many of the Nobility and Gentry delight in this Noble Diversion, I shall conclude with a compendious Treatise thereof:

CHAP. XV.10
Of the Choise of Cocks.

THe best properties for the choise of Fighting Cocks, is their Shape, Colour, Courage, and sharp Heels or Spurs; as to their Shape, the middle sized ones are esteemed the best, as be­ing soonest and easiest match't, as also the Nimblest, and generally best of Courage; whereas the large 20 ones (called the Turn-Pock) is difficult to find his equal; besides they are for the most part hea­vy, not shewing that sport in their Battle: like­wise the small sized ones are weak, and tedious in Battle.

The Shape.

HE should be of a proud and upright Shape, 30 with a small Head, a quick large Eye, with a strong Beak, crook't and big at the setting on, the Beam of his Legs very strong, and according to his Plume, Gray, Blew, or Yellow; his Spurs long, rough and sharp, a little bending in­wards.

His Colour.

THe Gray pyle, Yellow pyle, or red with the 40 black Breast is esteemed the best; the Pide is not so good, and the White and Dun worst of all: If he is red about the Head like Scarlet, 'tis a sign of Strength, Lust and Courage; but if pale, 'tis a sign of Faintness and Sickness.

His Courage.

HIs Courage is shewed by his Walk, treading, and the pride of his going, and in his Pen 50 by his frequent Crowing: For the sharpness of his Heel, or as Cock-masters call it, the narrow Heel, is only seen in his Fighting; for that Cock is said to be sharp Heel'd, or narrow Heel'd, which every time he riseth hits, and draws Blood of his Adversary, guilding (as they term it) his Spurs in Blood, and every Blow threatning the others Death. And such Cocks are the best; for a sharp Heel'd Cock, though he be a little false, is deemed much better than the truest Cock that hath a dull Heel, and hits seldom. But that Cock which is both hard, and very sharp Heel'd, is to be esteemed above others; therefore in your Choise choose such a one as is of a strong Shape, good Colour, true Valour, and of a most sharp and ready Heel.

Of Breeding.

FOr the Breeding these Cocks for Battle, it is much different from those of the Dung-hil, for they are like Birds of Prey, in which the Female is of better esteem than the Male; and so in the Breed of these Cocks, be sure that the Hens are right, that is, they must be, of a right Plume, as Gray, Grissel, Speck't, or Yellowish; Black or Brown is not amiss; their Bodies large, and well pouked behind for large Eggs, and well tusted on the Crowns, which shews good Cou­rage: If they have Weapons, 'tis the better: Also they must be of a good Courage, otherwise their Chickens will not be good. And it is observable that the perfect Hen from a Dunghil Cock, will bring a good Chicken; but the best Cock from a Dunghil Hen can never get a good one.

Thus having got a Breed of perfect Cocks and Hens, the best Season of the Year to breed in, is from the Increase of the Moon in February, to the Increase of the Moon in March; for one March Bird is of far greater esteem, than those bred at other times.

Let the Pen where she sits be placed warm, with soft sweet Straw therein for her Nest, they being much tenderer than the Dung hil-Hens; and permit no other Fowl to come where she sits, for that will disturb her. You should observe, if she be busie in turning her Eggs (being a good sign) if not, do it at such times as she riseth from her Nest; and be sure that she hath always Meat and Water by her, lest when she riseth she [Page 278] should stay long to seek Food, and so her Eggs would be chill and spoiled: Likewise in the place where she Sits, let there be Sand, Gravel, and fine sifted Ashes to bathe and trim her self in at pleasure.

In about three Weeks she will Hatch, and ob­serve, that if she doth not cover and keep the first warm till the rest are Hatcht, take those from her, and keep them warm in▪ Wool by the Fire until all are Hatcht; and then put them all 10 under her, keeping both the Hen and Chickens very warm, not suffering them to go abroad in the Cold for three Weeks, or a Month, for they are so tender that Cold will kill them.

Let them have plenty of Food, as Oatmeal, Cheese-Par [...]ngs, fine small Wheat, and the like, and a large Room to walk in with a Boarded Floor; for that of Earth, or Brick, is too cold or moist. After three or four Weeks, let them walk in your Court-Yard, or Garden, to pick Worms, 20 provided there is no Sinks, or Puddles of stinking Water, which is as bad as Poyson for them to drink, engendring corrupt Diseases.

After this manner keep them until you can know the Cock-Chickens from the Hens; and when you perceive their Combs, or Wattles to appear, cut them off, anointing the Soar with sweet Butter until well; and this will make them have fine, small, slender, and smooth Heads; whereas if you let the Combs grow to their big­ness,30 and then cut them off, it will cause them to have gouty thick Heads, with great Lumps; neither is the Flux of Blood good, for the least loss of Blood in a feathered Fowl is very dan­gerous.

Let the Cock-Chickens go with their Hens till they begin to fight with one another; but then separate them into several Walks, and that Walk is the best that is freest from the resort of others.

Let the Feeding place be upon soft dry Ground, 40 or upon Boards; for to feed them upon Pave­ments, or on Plaister-Floors, will make their Beaks blunt and weak, so that it will hinder their holding fast. Any white Corn, as Oats, Barly, or Wheat, is good Food for a Cock in his Walk; so are Toasts, or Crusts of Bread steept in Drink, or Wine; for it will both scowr and cool them inwardly.

If your Chickens begin to Crow at about six Months old clear and loud, or at un­seasonable 50 times, 'tis a sign of Cowardise and Falshood, so that they are not worth the rearing; for the true Cock is very long before he can get his Voice, and then he observes his Hours.

To one Cock four of five Hens are sufficient; for they are of so hot a Nature, and will Tread so much, that they soon consume their Natural strength.

At two years old you may put a Cock to the 60 Battle, as not being before perfect and compleat in every Member; for to suffer him to Fight when his Spurs are but Warts, you may know his Courage, but not his Goodness.

You must also be circumspect about the Pearch whereon he Roosteth; for if it be too small in the gripe, or crooked, or so ill placed that he can't sit without strading, it will make him un­even Heel'd, and by consequence no good striker. Seeing therefore that the Perch is of such conse­quence for the marring or making them; the best way is to have a row of little Pearches, not above seven or eight Inches long, and about a Foot from the Ground, so that with case they may go up to them; and being set, must have their Legs close, the shortness of the Pearch not admitting otherwise: And it is a Maxim, That he that is a close sitter, is ever a narrow striker.

You must also be careful, that when your Cock doth Leap from the Pearch, that the Ground be soft whereon he ligheth; for hard Ground causeth Goutiness.

Of Dyetting and Ordering Cocks.

FOr the Dyetting and Ordering a Cock for the Battle, which is the principal thing; (for the best Cock Undyetted, is not able to encounter with the worst that is Dyetted;) observe these Directions.

The best time to take up your Cocks is about the latter end of August (for from that time to the latter end of May, Cocking is in request) and having viewed them well, and that they are sound, hard Feathered, and full Summed, put them into several Pens. Now for the true ma­king them, it were convenient to visit some Cock-Master; for an ocular sight is far better than a verbal Direction; only let me tell you, it should be made of close Boards well joyn'd to­gether, all but the Fore-front, which must be made open, like a Grate; the Bars about two Inches apart; and before the Grate two large Troughs of soft Wood, the one for Water, and the other for Meat; the Door of the Grate to be made to lift up and down, and of such largeness, as with ease to put the Cock in and out, and to cleanse the Pen daily, to keep it sweet. The Pen should be at least three foot high, and two foot square; of these Pens many may be joyned in one Front, according to the use you have for them.

For the first three or four Days that they are put into their Pens, feed them only with old White Bread, the Crust pared away, and cut into little small square Bits, with which feed them at Sun-rising, Noon, and Sun-set, giving them about an Handful at a time; and be sure, let them not be without good fresh Water.

After they have been thus fed four Days, and their Crops cleared of the Corn, Worms, and other course Feeding, in the Morning take them out of their Pens, and putting a pair of Hots upon each of their Heels, which Hots are soft bum­basted Rouls of Leather covering their Spurs, that they can't hurt or bruise one another, and so setting them down (that is, two at a time) on the Green Grass, let them fight, and buffet each other a good while, provided they do not wound or draw Blood of each other, and this is called Sparring of Cocks. The reason of thus exer­cising them is, to chase and heat their Bodies, to break the fat and glut within them, and to cause it to come away.

[Page 279] Your Cocks having Sparred sufficiently, and that you see them Pant, and grow Weary, take them up, and unty their Hots; then being pro­vided with deep Straw-Baskets, made for that purpose, with sweet soft Straw to the middle; put into each Basket a Cock, covering him over with the like Straw to the top; then put on the Lid close, and so let him stove and sweat till the Evening: But before you put him into the Bas­ket, give him a pretty big Lump of sweet Butter, 10 with white Sugar-Candy, and some Rosemary finely chopt, and this Scouring will bring away his Grease, and breed Breath and Strength.

In the Evening (about four or five of the Clock) take them out of the Stoving-Baskets, and lick­ing their Heads and Eyes all over, put them into the Pens; then take a good Handful of Bread small cut, put it to each in their Troughs, and Piss therein, so that the Cocks may take the Bread out of the warm Vrine, and this will 20 scour and cleanse both their Heads and Bodies extreamly.

The Bread that you must now and after­ward give them, must not be fine White Bread; b [...]t a sort made for that purpose, after this manner. Take half a Peck of Wheat-Meal, with the like quantity of fine Oatmeal; mix these together, and knead them into a stiff Past with Ale, the Whites of twelve Eggs, and half a Pound of Butter. This Past being well wrought, make 30 into broad thin Cakes, and being three or four Days old, and the Blisterings cut away, cut it into little square Bits, and so give it the Cocks. There be some that will mix in the said Bread Licorice, Annice-seeds, with other hot Spices; but this is not good, as making them too hot at Heart, so that when they come to the latter end of a Battel, they are overcome with their heat.

Having fed your Cocks thus all the Night after their Sparring, the next day let them rest, only 40 give them their ordinary Feedings of Bread and Water; then the next day (which is the second day after their Sparring) take them into a fair even green Close, there set down one of them, and having a Dunghill Cock in your Arms, shew it him, running from him, enticing him to follow you; and so chase him up and down for about half an hour, suffering him now and then to have a stroak at him; and when you see him well heated and panteth, take him up and carry him 50 to his Pen, the like do with the rest▪ and there give him this Scouring: Take fresh Butter (that is without Salt) half a Pound, beat it in a Mor­tar, with the Leaves of Herb of Grace, Hysop, and Rosemary, until the Herbs are incorporated therein, and that the Butter is brought to a green Salve, and of this give the Cock a Roul or two, as big as he can well swallow; then Stove him in the Basket, as aforesaid, until the Evening; then take him out, put him in his Pen, and feed 60 him as before directed.

The next Day let him rest and feed, and the Day following Spar him again; and this Method observe every other Day for the first Fortnight to Spar, or Chase him, as being the most natural and kindliest Heats; but forget not to give him a Scouring after every Heat as aforesaid, for the breaking and cleansing him from Grease, Glut, and Filth, which lying in his Body causeth Pur­siness and Faintness, so that he can't stand out the latter end of a Battel.

Thus having fed your Cock the first Fortnight, observe the same Rules the next Fortnight; but for a Week do not Spar him, or give him Heats, above twice a Week, so that three or four times in the Fortnight will be sufficient; and each time Stove and Scour him according to the nature of his Heats, long Heats requiring longer Stoving, as also greater Scouring. But if you find him in good Breath, and requires but slight Heats, then stove him the less, and give him the less Scour­ing.

For the third Fortnight, which compleats the six Weeks (which is sufficient to prepare a Cock for Battel) feed him as aforesaid; but Spar him not at all for fear of making his Head tender and fore, neither give him any violent exercise, but only two or three times in the Fortnight, let him moderately be chast up and down to main­tain his Wind; and now and then Cuff a Cock, which you must hold to him in your hands; which done give him his Scouring well roul'd up in Powder of Brown Sugar Candy; for the Cock being now come to his perfect Breath, and clear from filth in his Body, the Sugar Candy prevents that Sickness which the Scouring would then cause, and also strengthens Nature against the Medicine.

Matching and Fighting Cocks.

THe six Weeks Feeding being finished, and finding your Cock in lust and breath, he is fit to fight; always observing that he have at least three Days rest before Fighting, and be well emptied of Meat before you bring him into the Pit.

Being brought into the Pit, your chief care must be in the Matching him, in which consists the greatest glory of a Cock-Master; therefore in your Matching there are two things to be con­sidered, viz. the Strength of Cocks, and the Length of Cocks; for if he be too strong, he will over-bear your Cock, not permitting him to rise, or strike with any advantage; and if he be too long, your Cock shall hardly catch his Head, so that he can neither endanger Eye, nor Life. Now for the knowledge of these two Rules, as for his Strength, 'tis known by the thickness of his Body, that Cock being held strongest which is largest in the Garth, which may be easily known by the measuring him with your Fingers; and as for his Length, 'tis as easily known by griping him about the middle, causing him to stretch forth his Legs; but if you doubt loss in the one, yet sure to gain in the other, you may venture a Match.

Your Cock being match'd thus, prepare him to the Battle: First, with a pair of fine Cock-Sheers cut off all his Main close to his Neck, from his Head to the setting on of his Shoulders; then clip off all the Feathers from his Tail close to his Rump, which the more Scarlet it appears, the better estate of Body he is in: Then take his [Page 280] Wings, extending them forth by the first Feather, clip the rest slopewise with sharp Points, that in his rising he may endanger the Eyes of his Ad­versary; then with a sharp Knife scrape smooth, and sharpen his Beak; and also smooth, and sharpen his Spurs: And lastly, see that there be no Feathers about the Crown of his Head for his Adversary to take hold of, and then with your Spittle moisten his Head all over, and so turn him into the Pit to try his Fortune.10

The Battle being ended, your first business must be to search his Wounds, and such as you find, suck out the Blood with your Mouth; then wash them with warm Vrine to keep them from rankling, and presently give him a bit or two of your best Scouring, and so Stove him up as hot as you can for that Night; and in the Morning take him forth, and if you see his Head much swell'd, suck them with your Mouth as aforesaid, and bathe them with warm Vrine. Then having 20 the Powder of the Herb Robert well dryed and finely sifted, Pounce all the Sore places there­with, and give him a good handful of Bread to eat out of warm Wine, and then put him into the Stove again, as before directed, being very careful that no Air come to him till the Swelling is gone; but twice a day suck and dress his Wounds, feeding him as aforesaid.

But if your Cock hath received any hurt in his Eye, then take a Leaf or two of right Ground-Ivy, that is, such as grows in little Tusts in the bottom of Hedges; chew this in your Mouth very well, sucking out the Juice, which squirting into his Eye two or three times will soon cure it, provided the sight is not pierced; and it will also preserve the Eye from Films, Haws, Warts, &c.

If your Cock hath Veined himself either by narrow Striking, or other cross Blow, find out the Wound, and presently bind unto it the soft Down of a Hare, and it will both stanch it, and cure it.

After your Wounded Cocks are put forth to their Walks, as being fit to go abroad, and when you come to visit them in about a Month or two after, if you find any hard swelling Bunches about their Heads, blackish at one end, 'tis a sign of unsound Cores; and then with a sharp Pen-Knife open them, and crush out the said Cores; then suck out all the Corruption, and fill the Holes with fresh Butter, which will perfect the Cure.

And thus much for Cock-fighting.

The TABLE of the Contents of the several Things treated of in the respective Chapters of this Treatise of AGRICULTURE.

Chap. I.
  • THe Introduction, shewing its antiquity, use, worth, &c. 207
Chap. II.
  • Treats of Meadows and Pastures, with instructi­ons for Improvement thereof by Enclosures, Drain­ing and overflowing by Engines; as also by Manu­ring and feeding. Of the several sorts of French Grasses, with directions for sowing and ordering them. 208 10
  • Of Meadow and Pasture Ground 209
  • Of Marsh and wet Meadow Ground ib.
  • The form and use of the Persian Wheel ib.
  • Rules to be observed about overflowing Grounds ib.
  • Of dry Meadows or Pastures, and the Improvement to be made thereon ib.
  • The several sorts of French Grasses or Hay, as the Clover 210
  • The Sain-Foyn ib.
  • The Trefoyl or Nonsuch 211 20
  • The Lucern ib.
Chap. III.
  • Treats of Arable Land, how to order it, with such Grains that are usually sown, as Wheat, Rye, Barly, Oates, Pease, Beans.
  • Tares, Lentills, Lupins, Buck-Wheat, &c. 212
  • Of Hemp 213
  • Of Flax ib.
  • Of Woad, or Wade ib.
  • Of Madder ib.30
  • Of Rape or Coleseed 214
  • Directions for the preparation of the Seed ib.
Chap. IV.
  • Treats of Manuring, Dunging and Soyling of Lands, with the several Sorts of Soils, or Dungs, used for the same ib.
  • Of Burning of Land 216
Chap. V.
  • Treats of Herbs, Roots, Fruits, Plants, &c. planted and propagated in the Kitchin Garden, 40 with Instructions how to sow raise, and order them according to the several Seasons, as well those for Food, as other for advantage ib.
  • Of Hops ib.
  • Of Saffron 218
  • Of Liquorice ib.
  • Of Tobacco ib.
  • Of Beans and Pease for the Garden ib.
  • Of French Beans 219
  • Of Artichoaks ib.50
  • Of Colly Flowers ib.
  • Of Cabages 220
  • Of Savoys ib.
  • Of Potatoes ib.
  • Of Carots ib.
  • Of Parsnips ib.
  • Of Turnips 221
  • Of Skirets ib.
  • Of Asparagus ib.
  • Of Mellons ib.60
  • Of Cucumbers 222
  • Of Pompions, Meakins and Gourds ib.
  • Of Onions, Leeks, Garlick, Shalot, with Sallat­ing and Potherbs ib.
  • Direction for drying Herbs, and preserving Seeds 223
  • Of Goosberries, Currans, Rasberries, and Stra­berries ib.
Chap. VI.
  • Treats of Flowers, and how to raise and order them, with instructions for the ordering a Garden into Walks, Grass plats, Ever-Green Hedges, &c. 224
  • Martagons, Lillies, 226
  • Fritillarys ib.
  • Tulips ib.
  • Narcissus or Daffodills 227
  • The Hyacinth, or Jacinth ib.
  • The Ornithogulum 228
  • The Moly ib.
  • The Asphodil ib.
  • The Spiderwort ib.
  • The Peony ib.
  • The Meadow Saffron ib.
  • Crocusses ib.
  • The Iris, or Flowerdelis ib.
  • The Corn Flag 229
  • The Bee-Flower ib.
  • The Sow-Bread ib.
  • The Anemonies or the Wild Flower ib.
  • The Ranunculus, or Crow-Foot ib.
  • The Wolfe-Bane 230
  • The Hipatica, or Liverwort ib.
  • The Helleborus, or Hellebor ib.
  • The Gentian ib.
  • The Bell-Flower ib.
  • The Jucca Indica, with other Indian Plants ib.
  • Auricula's ib.
  • Primroses and Couslips ib.
  • Champions ib.
  • Wall-Flowers ib.
  • Plants that bear double White Flowers ib.
  • Stock Gilly-Flowers ib.
  • Gilly Flowers ib.
  • Clove Gilly-Flowers 232
  • Pinks ib.
  • Sweet Johns, and Sweet Williams ib.
  • Colombines 23 [...]
  • Snap Dragon ib.
  • Fox Gloves ib.
  • Corn-Flowers, and Blew-Bottles ib.
  • Flower Gentle ib.
  • Scabious ib.
  • Larks Heels ib.
  • Double Poppies ib.
  • Mary-Golds ib.
  • Blew Bind-weed, or the Bell Flowers ib.
  • Aples of Love ib.
  • Garden Lupins ib.
Chap. VII.
  • Treats of Ever-Greens, and such that bear Flow­ers, Fruits, or Berries, as the Bay-tree, Orang-tree, [Page] tree, Strawbery-tree, Myrtle-tree, Jassamine, Phillirea, ib.
Chap. VIII.
  • Treats of Flower-bearing Trees, and Shrubs that fall their Leaves in Winter, and renew them again in the Spring 235
  • The Rose Trees ib.
  • Jesmines, Honisuckles, and some other woody Flower-bearing Trees 236
  • Other Flower-bearing Trees and Shrubs ib.10
  • Ever-Green Trees, as the Horse-Chesnut, Judas Tree, Bean-Trefoile, Bladder-Nut, Gilderland-Rose, Springa, Christs-Thron, the Myrtle-lea­ved, Sumach, Larch Tree, Cypress-Tree, Tree of Life, the Ever-Green Oak, the Holly, Pyracantha, the Staff-Tree, Privet, Phillarea, Laurel and Bay 237
Chap. IX.
  • Treats of Fruit-Trees, and how to propagate and manage them, as to Planting, Grafting, Innoculate­ing, 20 Pruning, &c. with an Account of each sort of Fruit ib.
  • Grafting ib.
  • Raising of Stocks 238
  • The time and manner of Grafting 239
  • Innoculating or Budding 240
  • Fruits raised fom Seeds, Stones, Nuts, and Ker­nells 241
  • Fruits raised by Layers, Slips, and Suckers ib.
  • Of Transplanting Trees ib.30
  • Of Pruning, plashing and ordering of Trees 242
  • Necessary things about Fruit-Trees ib.
  • Sorts of Aple Trees 243
  • Sorts of Pear Trees ib.
  • Sorts of Plum Trees 244
  • Sorts of Cherie Trees ib.
  • Sorts of Quinces ib.
  • Sorts of Apricocks ib.
  • Sorts of Peaches ib.
  • Sorts of Nectorines 245 40
  • Of Vines, and the several sorts of Grapes ib.
  • The Fig-Trees 246
  • The Service Tree ib.
  • The Mulberry Tree ib.
  • The Cornelian Chery ib.
  • The Barberry Tree ib.
  • The Medler Tree. 247
  • The Filbert Tree ib.
  • The Nut Tree ib.
  • The Goosberry Tree ib.50
  • The Curran Tree ib.
Chap. X.
  • Treats of the use and benefit of Fruits for the Making of Wines, Cider, Perry, Mead, &c. ib.
  • Of Perry 248
  • Of Wine 249
  • Of Wines made of the Juice of Fruits, as Cheries, Plums, Mulberries, Rasberries, Currans, Quin­ces, &c. ib.
  • Of M [...]ad and Metheglin ib.60
Chap. XI.
  • Treats of the benefit by raising and planting of Timber Trees, and other Trees useful for Build­ing, Fewel and other uses 250
  • Of Timber Trees, as the Oak, Elm, Ash, Beech Walnut, Chesnut ib.
  • Of Trees for Fewel, as the Birch, Maple, Quick-Beam, Horn-Beam, Hasel 251
  • Of Aquaticks, or Trees growing in watery place, as the Poplar, Aspen, Abele, Willow, Withy, Sal­ly, Osier 252
  • Of Trees for Fencing, as the White-Thron, Black-Thron, Pyracantha, Elder ib.
  • Of Trees for Ornament of Gardens, Avenews, Parks, and the like, as the Lime, Sycamore, Firr, Pine, Pinaster, Pitch-Tree, Horse-Chesnut, Lacus, Larch, Plantanus, Cypress, Caedar, Eugh, Bay, Privet, Philyrea, Alaternus 253
  • Rules for the raising Trees in way of a Nur­sery ib.
  • Concerning Transplanting Trees 254
  • Of Pruning, Cutting, Shrouding and Felling of Trees, and Coppices 255
Chap. XII.
  • Treats of the several sorts of Beasts, Fowls and Insects necessary to be kept, and the benefit accruing thereby ib.
  • Of Cows 256
  • Of the Calves ib.
  • Of the Ox ib
  • Directions to keep Beasts, and other Cattle 257
  • How to dispose of Cattle at Pasture ib.
  • Rules for buying Cattle ib.
  • Diseases ib.
  • Of the Fever ib.
  • Of any inward Sickness in Cattle ib.
  • Diseases in the Guts ib.
  • Pissing Blood ib.
  • Swelling in Beasts 258
  • For a Cough, or Shortness of Breath ib.
  • Diseases in the Lungs ib.
  • Loss of the Cud ib.
  • To kill Worms ib.
  • Vomiting of Blood ib.
  • To cause a Beast to Piss ib.
  • Overflowing of the Gall ib.
  • A Cow that is Weathered ib.
  • Of Purging Cattle ib.
  • Of Faintness of Labour in an Ox ib.
  • Breeding Milk in Cows ib.
  • Of the Rot in Cattle ib.
  • Of Wounds in Cattle ib.
  • To Cure a Beast Goared ib.
  • To draw out a Thorn or Stub ib.
  • Diseases in the Eyes, as the Haw, Pin, &c. ib.
  • Diseases in the Neck 259
  • Leanness of Cattle ib
  • The Murrain in Cattle ib.
  • Worms in the Tayl. ib.
  • Diseases in the Sinews ib.
  • Of Hide-boundness ib.
  • Biting with a Mad Dog ib.
  • Of the Foul, or other grief in the Hoof. ib.
  • Of Lice and Ticks ib.
  • Of Sheep ib.
  • Signs to know a sound Sheep 260
  • Of Sickness in general amongst Sheep ib.
  • Of the Scab, or Itch ib.
  • Killing Maggots in Sheep ib.
  • Diseases in the Gall, as Jaundise, &c. ib.
  • Of the Sturdy, Turning Evil, &c. ib.
  • Of broken Bones, or out of Joynt ib.
  • Of the Tag'd or Belt Sheep ib.
  • Of the Staggers 261
  • Loose Teeth ib.
  • [Page] The Loss of the Cud ib.
  • Worms in the Guts ib.
  • Of Lung-sick, or the Cough, or Cold ib.
  • Diseases in the Eye ib.
  • To preserve Sheep from the Rot ib.
  • To cause Ews to be easily delivered ib.
  • Encreasing Milk in Ews ib.
  • To cause an Ewe to love her own, or any others Lamb. ib.
  • Of any Sickness in Lambs. ib.10
  • To know the Age of a Sheep ib.
  • Of SWINE, how to choose, order and feed them ib.
  • To cause Hogs to thrive 262
  • The Murrain in Hogs ib.
  • The Meazels ib.
  • Of Leanness, Scurf, and the Mange ib.
  • To cure Swine that are lugg'd in their Ears by Dogs ib.
  • Of Asses ib.20
  • Of GOATS ib.
  • Of FOWL, and POULTREY 263
  • Of the Hen-House ib.
  • Feeding Fowl. ib.
  • Setting of Poultrey 264
  • Of Capons ib.
  • Diseases in Poultrey ib.
  • Of GEESE ib.
  • Of TURKEYS 265
  • Of DUCKS ib.
  • Of PEACOCKS ib.30
  • Of SWANS ib.
  • Of Herns, Puets, Guls and Bitterns ib.
  • To Feed Phesants, Partriges and Quails ib.
  • To Feed Goodwits, Curlews, Gray-Plovers and Knots 266
  • Of PIGEONS ib.
  • Of Bees, and how to order them ib.
Chap. XIII.
  • Treats of external Injuries amongst Cattle, and o­ther Inconveniencies hapning to the Husbandman, with Remedies for the same 268
  • Injuries sustayned by Beasts and Vermine ib
  • Of Moles ib.
  • Foxes ib.
  • Pole-Cats, Fitchets, Weasels ib.
  • Rats and Mice ib.
  • Moles 269
  • Injuries sustained by Fowl, and Insects, as Crows, Rooks, Sparrows, Kites, Snayls, Slugs, Wasps, Ants, Hornets, Catter-Pillers, Snakes ib.
  • Injuries Sustained by the Heavens, as by Thunder, Tempests, Hail, Lightning, Blighting, Mil­dews ib.
Chap. XIV.
  • A Kalendar, or Monthly direction to the Hus­bandman. 270
Chap. XV.
  • Treats of the choise, ordering Breeding and dieting of Cocks for the Battle 277
  • The Choise of Cocks ib.
  • The Shape ib.
  • Colour ib.
  • Their Courage ib.
  • Of Breeding ib.
  • How to dyet and order them 278
  • Matching and Fighting Cocks 279
FINIS
[...]

Fig. 1. [...] Branch Droit [...] Pistolet: [...] Branch after y forme [...] Pistol.

Fig. 2. [...]ne Branch à [...] Conestable. A Branch after the [...]Duke of Mentn̄orancy Constable of France his Fashion.

Fig. 3. Une Branch à La Gigotte. A Branch after ye Forme of a G'iget er. Ley & pretty well. kneed and also bruised forewards at the Iarret. or Ham.

Fig. 4. Vne Branche à [...] The Eye G'eneuil. A Branch very much kneed at the Iarret or Ham of it after y forme of a bent Knee. The [...] of the Branch.

Fig. 9. Fer peur les pieds plats. The true forme of a Shee for Flate Feet.

Fig. 10. Fer à Panto [...]e A Tanten or Tantable Shee.

Fig. 11. Fer à Demy Pantou [...]ffle. A half Panton Shoe.

Fig. 5. Vne Branche Franceise. A Branch after y French Fashion.

Fig. 6. Vne [...] Branche à La Conestable, Mais p [...]is har [...]ie que La precedente. Another Branch after ye Duke of [...]ommoraner Constable of France his Fashion, but more strong & hardie then the preceeding Branch.

Fig. 7. Vne autre Branche à La [...] Mais qui remene [...] Adeantage. qui La precedente. Auther Branch after the forme of a Gigot or Leg But which bringeth in a Herses head better then the preceeding Branch.

Fig. 8. Vne autre Branche Francoise, Mais [...]bis hardie que la' Preceedente. Auther Branch after ye French Fashion, but more strong & hardie then the preceeding Branch.

Fig. 12. An [...]rdin: are Curb The hook which is fixed to ye Eye of the Branch. The Esses or Chain of the Curb. The two Rings or Mailes.

Fig. 13. A Masticadour or Slavering Bit.

Fig. 14. A Curb more gentle then that at Figure 12. The hook wch is fixed to ye Eye of the Branch. The Links. The Rings.

[Page] [Page]

Fig. 1. The Best & most modern Fashion of Carezen with its [...]

Fig. 2. The Best and most modern Fashion of Great Saddle, or Selle a [...]quer.

Fig. 3. The Best and most modern Fashion of Rope [...]reizon For the Pillars. The best and most modern Fashion of Shrrups. The best and most modern Fashion of Spurrs.

Fig. 4. The True and period Seal upon Horse-back.

Fig. 5. The true and but way of Ordering An Unruly Colt, Before [...] Bicking.

Fig. 6. The true and best way of suppling Horses shoulders. Upon large Circles to the Right Hand.

Fig. 7. A true & perfect Step Upon large Circles to the Left Hand.

Fig. 8. A true and perfect Short, or Peti [...] Galop, Upon Large Circles to the Right Hand.

Fig. 9. A true & perfect Passage a lena a [...]all to the Right Hand.

[Page] [Page]

Fig. 1. A true and perfect Passage upon narrow Circles to the Left Hand.

Fig. 2. A true and perfect Terra a Terra upon large Circles or a Square to the left Hand.

Fig. 3. A true and perfect [...] to the right Hand.

Fig. 4. The true and exact way of [...] A Horse before upon [...] between the Pillars.

Fig. 5. The true and exact waye of raising a Horse before upon Pesales or [...] without the Help of the Pillars.

Fig. 6. The true and exact way of teaching A Horse all kind of high Ayres, by the help of une Single pillar only.

Fig. 7. The true and exact way of teaching a Horse to [...].

Fig. 8. The true and exact way of [...]eaching A Horse to go in [...]reupads.

Fig. 9. A Back- [...]and. A H [...]se. A Side Rope. The true and exact way of [...]eaching A Horse to Amble.

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