Some Observations touching the Antiquity of the famous City of London.
LOndon, the most glorious City (all things considered) in the whole World, is of great Antiquity; and, (if Historians say truth) can boast of almost three thousand Years continuance from its foundation.
Geoffrey of Monmouth recordeth, that the City of London was built by Brute, about the year of the World 2855. and in the 110 [...]. year ante-Christum, neer unto the River now called the Thames, and named it TroyNovant, or New-Troy.
King Lud afterward, not only repaired this City, but increased the same with many famous Buildings. Towers, Walls, &c. and called it Caire-Lud, or Luds-Town: and the strong gate which he built in the West-part of the City, he likewise (for the continuance of his own Name and Honour,) called it Lud-gate. But, much more of the Name and Original of this City, may be seen in Cambden, Speed, Stow, &c. unto which Authors Ireser the desirous Readers.
The Romans did first plant Civility in Brittain, and in this Noble City, and (in the time of Domitian the Emperor) taught them to build houses for themselves, (their habitations being before, only thick and cumbersome Woods, plashed within, and trenched about,) and Temples for their Gods, and Courts for Justice; to bring up their Noble Mens Children in good Letters, and Humanity, and to apparrel themselves Roman-like; whereas before, they went naked (as saith mine Author,) painting their bodies, &c.
Simon of Durham (as quoted by Stow, for I have not the book,) sayes, that Helen the Mother of Constantine [Page] the Great, was the first that Enwalled this City, and this was about the year Christ 306, which wall being afterwards defac'd, there was another wall built for its defence, eight foot in breath, and twelve foot in height, as the ruins thereof doth yet make appear; this was done, Anno Christi, 434, and, so from time to time hath the wall of this City been altered & repaired, as I shall hereafter (though perhaps not in this Almanack) shew.
Leaving therefore to discourse of its walls, and Original any further, in this place. I shall take a view of the Rivers, Bourns, and Brooks &c. belonging to this noble place; Water being one of the most useful and commodious necessaries for a City, it is but fit that I take notice thereof in the first place, and shew you, out of Stow, and other approved Authors, how this populous City, was, and is, furnished therewith.
Antiently, until the time of William the Conqueror, and for 200 years after, the City of London was watered on the West part with the River Wells, (or rather Wallbrook) running through all that part of the City, this was a River so large, that it bear Ships, and 10 or 12 at a time were wont to come up to the Fleet, and Oldbourn-bridge.
The River of Thames waters it on the South-side.
On the East-side it was water'd with a River or Water called Langbourne.
On the West-side, in the Subburbs, it was water'd with Oldbou [...]ne River.
Three principal Wells or Fountains there are in other Subburbs, to assi [...]t them with water, viz. Holy-wel, Clements-wel, and Clerks-wel; of which more anon.
Neer unto this last named Fountain, viz. Clerks-well, are sundry other wells, viz. Skinners-well, Flags-well, Tode-well, Loders-well, and Rad-well. Dame Annis the Cleer, Perilous-pond, &c. And in West Smithfield, the [...]e is a water called Horse-pool, and another neer St. [Page] Gile's-Cripple-gate, call'd Crowders-well, of all which I shall give you a brief account.
1. The Thames is the most eminent and famous River of this Island, and hath it's original in the County of Oxford, neer unto a Village called Winchc [...]mb, it passeth by the University of Oxford, and (saith Stow,) with a marvellous quiet course, it runneth to London, and thence it issueth into the Ocean by main Tides, which ebb and flow, more then sixty miles in length; so that omitting to mention great Ships, and other Vessels of Burthen, there is commonly to be found between Windsor and Gravesend, 5 or 6000 small Boats, or Wherries, (now called Oars or Scullers,) which imployes great numbers of poor men; and, is of eminent advantage to the Kingdom, in case of any Naval expedition.
2. The River Wells, or Wel-brook (which in process of time is turned in Wal-brook,) is now decay'd and so stopped up by reason of buildings upon it, that its course is now hardly known; but formerly this River was so large, that it was capable of bearing Ships, as I before urged.
3. The River Langbourn, or Longbourn, so called of the length of it, was a stream breaking out in Fen-Church, (or Fan Church-street) which ran athwart G [...]ass-street, or Grace-Church-street down Lumbard-street, to the West end of St. Mary Woolnoth's Church and then tu [...]ning South, down Shar [...]bourn-lane, it brake into divers Rills, or Rivolets, to the River of Thames. This Bourn is also long since [...]opped up, so that no sign thereof remaineth.
4. Oldbourn, which was a River that brake out about the place where now the barrs do stand, (viz. neer unto Grayes-Inn-lane;) and it thence ran down the whole street, to Oldbourn (now called Holbourn) bridge; and so into the River of Wells before mentioned, or (as it was lately called) Turnmil-brook. This River is also since st [...]pped up; b [...]t yet the street beareth the Name thereof.
5. Holy-well, is further on the North part of the City, and near unto that place where divers Kings of England have kept their Courts, scituate between Morefields and Shoreditch: and, for the sweetness and pleasantuess of the water, it was much frequented by young Schollars, and other youths in the Summer Evenings; but now (saith my Authour) is decay'd and spoiled, with filth purposely layd here, to raise the ground all thereabout, the better for Garden-plots.
6. Clements-well, is a little North from St. Clements Church in the Strand, and nigh unto an Inne of Chancery, called Cl [...]ments-Inn [...]; the water is sweet, serviceable, and plentiful, and, is yet handsomely preserved with free-stone round about it, it being of great use to all the Neighbourhood thereabouts.
7. Clerks-well, or Clerken-well, as it is now called, is scituate not very far West of Clerken-well Church, adjoyning to the wall that encloses it. The said Church took its name of the Well, as history mentioneth; and the Well took its name from the Parish-Clerks in London, who (in old times) were wont thereabout to meet; and (Dramatique-wi [...]e) to act some large History of Scripture; at which recreations, sundry Kings and Nobles have been present, for their encouragement. This Well is furnished with plenty of good water, and is of great use to the inhabi [...]ants adjoyning round about, even unto this day.
8. S [...]inners-well was neer unto Clerken-well, and was so named of the Worshipful company of Skinners in London, for that they held thereabouts certain yearly interludes; in place whereof (saith Stow) the wrestlings have been of late years kept, and is (in part) continued by the Lord Mayor and A'dermen, at the Feast of S. Barthol [...] mew, in the moneth of August: at which time, there is both Shooting of several sorts. Wrestling and Cudgel-playing, by the ablest men for skill and strength in these Exercises [Page] in the City before the Lord Mayor and Aldermen, who reward the Victors, and Victored also but unequally, preferring strength to weakness, &c.
The other lesser Wells or Rivers, are almost all of them decay'd. Howbeit, I shall mention something of them for information to my ingenious Reader.
Fla [...]s-well, was scituate neer unto West-smith-fi [...]ld by the Charter-house, now lately (saith Stow) damned up, that scarcely any Prints thereof remains.
Tods-wel, Loders-wel, and Rad-wel, are all of them decay'd, and now so filled up, that the [...]laces where they were, are hardly now to be discerned.
Dame-Annis the Cleer is not far from Holy-wel, and remaineth still, as may be seen by any that walk between Holy-Wel and More-fields; and somewhat West thereof is another cleer water, called Perilous-Pond: because divers youths (by swiming therein) have been drowned.
Horse-pool, is in West-smith-field, and hath been sometimes a very great water; and was so called from the use that was made thereof, viz of watering Horses therein. This is now also much decay'd, the Spring thereof being stopped up, and the land-Water (as saith Sto [...]) falling into the small bottom, remaining here enclosed with b [...]ck, is now called Smith-field Pond.
Crowders-wel, is scituate by St. Giles's Church-yard without Cripple-gate, and was formerly a large water, and fed with sundry springs. It is now for the most part stopped up, but the chief spring thereof is preserved, and was cooped about with Stone, by the Excecutors of one Richard Wittington, Citiz [...]n of London, as saith mine Author.
Besides these several advantages of Water this great and populous City was blessed withal, by Nature; Art, hath not been wanting to give assistance herein unto it also, by the generous charity of sund [...]y Persons that bore affection [Page] unto her. And, so we may in History, that Gilbert Sandford, to do this glorious City service, obtained from King Henry the Third his Majesty a Patent to convey water from the Town of Teybourn (whence the place of executing offenders Monethly, at the West end of the Subburbs neer Hide-Park corner, is named) by pipes of Lead into this City.
Then is it also furnished with divers curious Conduits, which do not only eminent service to the several prime parts of the City, but serve for Ornament and glory unto it; of which I think not amiss to speak a little.
The first Ci [...]lern of Lead, enclosed, or castellated (to use Stows word) with Stone in the City of London, was called the great Conduit in West-cheap, or Cheap-side, and began to be builded in the year, 1285.
The Conduit in St. Mary Aldermanbury, near the Church, and the Standard (or Conduit) in Fleet-street, neer St. B [...]ides Church, were made and finished Anno 1471. by the Excecutors of one William East-field, Citizen of London.
The Conduit in Grass-streer, or Grace-Church-street, opposite to London Bridg, was built Anno Christi, 1491.
The Conduit at Oldb [...]urn Cross, now called Hol [...]ourn Conduit, was built Anno Christi, 1498. and tebuilt by one Mr. William Lamb, Anno, 1577.
The little Conduit by the Stocks market, at the lower end of Cheap-side, was first built Anno Christi 1500, and, (having bin tuined with the City it self by the la [...]e dreadful conflagration of London,) [...]as rebuilt at the charges of the Honourable Sr. Robert Viner, Kt. and Baronet, with the true and lively Portraicture of his present sacred Majesty, King CHARLES the second on horse-back: upon whose happy Birth and Restauration-day, Anno 1672. viz. May 29 it ran Wine for many hours together, at the charge of the said Sr. Robert Viner, as a signal Testimony of his loyalty to our said soveraign Lord.
[Page]The Conduit at Bishops-gate, was built in the year of our Lord, 1513.
The Conduit at London wall, almost against Coleman street end, was built in or about the year 1528.
The Conduit at Aldgate without, was built about the year of Christ 1535.
The Conduit in Lothbury, about the middle thereof, was built Anno Christi 1546.
The Conduit in Coleman-street, adjoyning to the Church, was built about the same year.
The Conduit at Down-gate, (vulga [...]ly Dow gate) was built Anno Christi 1568.
The Conduit in Alders-gate-street, without the gate, was built An. Dom. 1610, by Mr. Thomas Hayes, and water then conveyed unto it.
Besides these several Conduits and Aqueducts, replenished with curious springs, by which the City of London is happily served; there are other Aquatical advantages belonging thereunto, viz.
Two other Conduits served by the water of the River Thames; the one of them scituate by the Parish Church of St. Mary Magdalen, and the other adjoyning to the Parish Church of St. Nicholas Cole abby; both neer unto Old fishstreet, and built Anno Christi 1583.
But that which was as eminent almost as all these Conduits &c. was the excellent contrivance of S [...] Hugh Middlet [...]n Kt. and Baronet, who fi [...]st attempted and brought to pass that admirable work of conveighing the New River water (as now called) from Chadwel and Amwell to London; which becau [...]e it was, and is, and is like to be, of such great [Page] service to that eminent City, I will transcribe the story thereof (in brief) from Stow, which take a [...] followeth.
The good Queen Elizabeth, minding the good of this great City, in or about the tenth year of her Raign, granted to her Citizens, power by Act of Parliament for cutting and conveying a River, from any part of Middlesex or Hertfordshire, to the City of London, with a limitat [...]on of ten years time for the performance thereof. But the expiration of her royal life sooner came, then any such matter would be undertaken.
Also our late gracious Soveraign King James was pleased to grant the like Act (but without date of time) for the same effect, and when all else refused, Sr. Hugh Middleton undertook it, to bring his intended River from Chadwel and Amwel, to the North side of London, neer Islington, where he builded a large Cistern to receive it.
The work began the 20 day of February, Anno D [...]m. 1608 and in five years space was fully accomplished. Concerning the conveyance of it along to London, from Chadwel and Amwel, I my self (saith Stow) did divers time ride to see it, and diligently observed that admirable Art, pains and industry were bestowed for the passage of it, by reason that all grounds are not of a like nature; some being Ozie, and very Muddy, others again as St [...]ff, Craggy and Stony.
The depth of the Trench (in some places) descended full 30 foot, if not more; whereas (in other places) it required as sprightful Art again, to [Page] mount it over a valley in a Trough, between a couple of Hills, and the Trough all the while borne up by wooden Arches; some of them fixed in the ground very deep, & rising in height above 23 foot.
Being brought to the intended Cistern, but not (as yet) the water admitted entrance thereinto: on Michaelmas day, Anno 1613. being the day when Sr. Thomas Middleton Knight, (Brother to the said Sr. Hugh Midd'eton) was elected Lord Mayor of London for the year ensuing; in the afternoon of the same day, Sr. John Swinerton, Knight, and Lord Mayor of London, accompanied with the said Sr. Thomas, Sr. Henry Montague, Knight, and Recorder of London, and many of the worthy Aldermen, rode to see the Ci [...]ern, and first issuing of the River thereinto: which was performed in this manner.
A Troop of Labourers, to the number of 60 or more, well apparalled, and wearing green Monmouth caps, all alike, carried Spades, Shovels, Pickaxes, and such like instruments of laborious imployment, marching after Drums twice or thrice about the Ci [...]ern, presented themselves before the Mount, where the Lord Mayor, Aldermen, and a worthy company beside, stood to behold them; and one man, in behalf of the rest, delivered this Speech.
LOng have we labour'd long desir'd, and pray'd,
For this great works perfection; and by th' ayd
Of H [...]aven, and goodm [...]ns wishes, 'tis at length
Happily conquered by Cost, [...]rt, a [...]d St [...]ength.
[Page]And after five years dear expence in dayes,
Travel and Pains, beside the infinite wayes
Of Malice, Envy, false suggestions,
Able to daunt the spirits of mighty ones,
In wealth and courage; this a work so rare,
Only by one man's industry, cost, care,
Is brought to bless'd effect, so much withstood;
His only aime, the Citie's general good.
And where (before) many unjust complaints,
Enviously seated, caused oft restraints,
Stops, and great crosses, to our Masters cha [...]ge,
And the work's hindrance: favour now at large
Sp [...]eads it self open to him, and commends,
To admiration, both his pains and ends.
(The Kings most gracious love) perfection draws
Favour from Princes, and (from all) applause.
Then wo [...]thy Magistrates, to whose content,
(Next to the State) all this great care was bent;
And for the publick good (which grace requires)
Your loves and furtherance chiefly he desires,
To cherish these proceedings, which may give
Courage to some that may hereafter live,
To practice deeds of goodness, and of fame,
And gladly light their actions by his Name.
`Clark to the wo [...]k, reach me the Book to shew,
`How many Arts from such a labour flow.
First, her [...]'s the Overseer; this tride man,
An antient Soldier, and an artizan;
The Clark; next him, Mathematitian;
[Page]The Master of the Timber-work take place
Next after these; the Measurer, in like case,
Brick layer, and Engineer; and, after those,
The Borer, and the Pavior. Then it showes
The Labourers; next, keeper of Amwel head;
The Walkers last; so all their Names are read.
Yet, these but parcels of six hundred more,
That (at onetime) have been imploy'd before.
Yet, these in sight, and all the rest will say,
That all the week they had their royal-pay.
Now for the fruits then; flow forth, precious spring,
So long and dearly sought for, and now bring
Comfort to all that love thee — Loudly sing;
And, with thy christal murmurs strook together,
Bid all thy true wel-wishers welcome hither.
At which words the flood-gates flew open, the stream ran gallantly into the Cistern, Drums and Trumpets sounding in triumphant manner, and a brave peal of Chambers gave full issue to the intended entertainment.
Thus much for waters serving this great City; first, by Rivers, Brooks, Bourns, Fountains, Pools, &c. and since by Cenduits, partly made by good and charitable Citizens, and otherwise by charges of the Commonalty; and lastly, by this NewRiver water brought from Amwell, more chargable then almost all the rest.
[Page]To conclude, as I have treated of all the several Waters that are serviceable to this great City, and also of the several Conduits, &c. it may be somwhat wondered at, that I have been so sparing in my discourse, or description rather, of the most famous River in the Western world, viz. the Thames, a River so great and spacious, that without it, London could not subsist, although it had the advantage of all the others, and twice as many more to furnish it with water. That any wonder of this kind, may the more easily abate, I shall refer my Readers for satisfaction, unto my next years London - Almanack; in which, I intend, (by Gods permission) to treat thereof by it self at large, and shew them its Original, and sundry passages, untill I have pursued it into the Ocean, into which all Rivers Naturally run: and so end my book for this year.