A True and strange dis­course of the trauailes of two English Pilgrimes: what admirable accidents befell them in their iourney to Ierusalem, Gaza, Grand Cayro, Alexandria, and other places:

Also what rare Antiqui­ties, Monuments and notable memories (concording with the an­cient remembrances in the holy Scrip­tures) they sawe in Terra Sancta, with a perfect description of the old and new Ierusalem, and scitua­tion of the Countries a­bout them.

A discourse of no lesse admira­tion, then well worth the regarding: written by one of them, on the be­halfe of himselfe, and his fel­lowe Pilgrime.

¶Imprinted at London, for Thomas Archer, and are to be solde at his Shoppe by the Royall Ex­change. 1603.

A true and strange discourse of the late trauailes of two English Pilgrimes: what admirable accidents befell them in their iourney to Ierusalem, Grand Cayro, Alexandria. &c.

ALthough it passe as a generall prouerbe, that trauailers may tel leasings by authoritie: yet I be­ing no way daunted by that bug­beare-thunderbolt, but confidēt­ly standing on the iustice of my cause, my kinde commendations to all you my deare friendes first remembred, thus from Ierusalem I beginne to salute you. You shal vnderstand, that since my de­parture from the Grand Cayro towards the Holy land, I wrot you a letter from Ramoth Gilead, wherein I certified you of all my proceedings from Grand Cayro, euen to that very place. I sent it with seauen other Letters beside to Damasco in a Cara­uan, and thence to be conueyed to Constantinople: but doubting least the said packet be not as yet come to your hands, I thought it good to write againe vnto you, concerning all the aforesaide proceedings, as also the rest of my voyage to Ierusalem, with my imprisonment and troubles in the citie, as also what me­morable antiquities I sawe there and elsewhere, vntill my returne backe to Alexandria, which was the 11. of Aprill 1601. First then let me tell you, that I departed not from the Grand Cayro till the 9. of March: vpon which day I came to the place, where (it is saide) the Uirgine Mary did stay with our Sauiour Christ. So farre was I accompanied with Antonie Thorpe, [Page 2] and some others that came vp to the Grand Cayro with mee: but here they left mee, departing back to the citie, and I with my fellow trauailer Master Iohn Burrell, both of vs being in our Pilgrimes habit, came y night to a towne called Canko, where we were glad to take vp our lodging in a yarde, hauing no other bedding then the bare ground. The next day we departed thence, and came to a towne in the Land of Gozan, where we met with a companie of Turkes, Iewes, and Christians, and some sea­uen hundred and fiftie Camelles, all which were bound for Da­masco ouer the deserts: yet was there amongst them two and twentie Greekes and Armenians, whose purposed trauaile lay to Ierusalem, which made vs the gladder of their companie. At this towne, being named Philbits, we stayed two daies and one night: in which time I went into a house, where I sawe (in my iudgement) a very strange secret of hatching Chickins, by arti­ficiall heat or warmthe: the like I had seene before at the Grand Cayro, but not in such extraordinary numbers or mul­titudes as heere, the manner whereof (for your better satisfac­tion) was as followeth.

The country people inhabiting about this towne, by foure or fiue miles distance euery waie, doe bring their Egges in apt cartage for the purpose, vpon Asses or Camelles to this place, where there is an Ouen or Furnace purposely kept temperat­ly warme, and the Furner or Master thereof (or howsoeuer it shall please you to tearme him) standeth ready at a little doore, receiuing the Egges of euery one, by tale: except when the nū ­ber ariseth so high, as to tenne Camelles lading or more, then he filleth a measure by tale, & after that order measures all y rest. And let me tell you this for a trueth, that I sawe there receiued by the Furner, Cooke, or Baker, in one day, what by tale & what by measure, to the number of thirtie fiue or fortie thou­sand Egges: and they tolde me, that, for three daies space together, hee doth nothing but receiue in still, and at twelue daies they come againe to fetch Chickins, some­times at tenne daies, and sometimes (but not very often) at seauen daies, according as the weather falleth out. Perhaps some two hundred persons are owners of one Raungefull, some hauing two thousand, some one, or more or lesse, as the quanti­ties amount too: but the Furner noateth the names and porti­ons [Page 3] of euery bringer, and if he hap to haue an hundred and fiftie thousand, or two hundred thousand at one heate (as many times it chaunceth that he hath) yet doth he mingle them altogether, as not respecting to whom they seuerally belong. Then doth he lay them one by one vpon his Raunge, so neere as they can lye and touch each other, hauing first made a bed for them of Camelles dunge burnt: and the place, whereon the ashes doth rest, is of a very thinne matter made of earth, but mixed with the Camels dung in the making, and some Pigeons dung is also amongst it: yet herein consisteth not the secreat onely, for there is made a concaue or hollow place about three foote breadth vnder it, whereon is likewise spred an other layer of Camels dung, and vnder that is the place where the fire is made. Yet can I not rightly call it fire, because it appeareth too be nothing but embers: for I could discerne it but as quali­fied ashes, yeelding a temperate heate to the next concaue, and the heate being resisted by the layer of dung next it, (which dung being greene, and layd vpon pieces of withered trees, or rather boughes of old dead trees) deliuereth foorth an extraor­dinarie vapour, and that vapour entreth the hollow concaue next vnder the Egges, where in time it pearceth the before na­med mixed earth, which toucheth the ashes whereon the Egges are laid, and so serueth as a necessarie receptacle for al the heate comming from vnderneath. This artificiall heate gliding through the embers whereon the Egges lie, doth by degrees warme thorowe the shelles, and so infuseth life by the same pro­portions of heate: thus in seuen, eight, nine, ten, or sometimes twelue daies, life continueth by this artificiall meanes. Now when the Furner perceiueth life to appeare, and that the shelles begin to breake, then he beginneth to gather them: but of an hū ­dred thousand, he hardly gathereth threescore thousand, some­time but fiftie thousand, and sometime (when the day is ouer­cast) not twentie thousand: and if there chaunce any lightning, thunder or raine, then of a thousand he gathers not one, for they doo then all miscarie & die. And this is to be remembred with­all, that be the weather neuer so fayre, the aire perfect cleare, and euery thing as themselues can desire, let the Chickens be hatched in the best manner that may be: yet haue they either a clawe too much or too little: for sometimes they haue fiue clawes, [Page 4] sometimes sixe, some but two before, and one behind, and sel­dome very fewe or any in their right shape. Afterward, when the people come to receiue, that before had brought in, the Fur­ner giues to euery one ratably, according as the Furnace yeel­ded, reseruing to himselfe the tenth for his labour. Thus haue you the secret of hatching Chickens by heate artificiall, at the towne of Philbits in the land of Gozan, which I thinke were in vaine to be practised in England, because the ayre there is hardly ten daies together clarified: neither is there any Ca­mels dunge, though they haue dunge of other beasts euery way as hote: therefore when the Sunne is in Cancer, Leo, or Virgo, you may (if you please) trie what can be done. Pexhaps some will thinke this to be a lie or fable, but to such I answere, I can vrge their credenceno furder then my faith and truth may perswade them: and if thereon they will not beleeue me, let them take paines to make their owne eies a witnesse, and when they haue paid as dearely as I haue doone, (for the sight of this and other things cost me an hundred Markes in fiftie daies) their iudgement will be better confirmed.

But now to my iourney toward the desert of Arabia, which I must passe before I can come to the Holy land. The 13. of Marche we departed from the towne of Philbits, trauailing all night in companie with the Carauan of Damasco, and the 14. at nine of the clocke, we pitched our tents at Boharo in the land of Gozan. From thence wee departed that night, and the 15. at night we pitched at Salhia, which is to the Eastward of the land of Gozan, and stands on the borders of the Arabian deserts. Here we staied two daies for feare of the wild Arabes, and depar­ted thence the 17. we passed that night ouer a great bridge, vn­der which the salt water standeth. This water comes out of the Sea from the partes of Damieta, and by mens hands was cut out of that place, some hundred and fiftie miles into the maine land, by Ptolomeus king of Egypt, who purposed to bring the Red-sea, and the Mediterranean all into one: but when he fore­saw, that if he had gone through with this worke, all his coun­trie had bin quite drowned, he gaue it ouer, & builded a bridge ouer for passage. This place parteth Arabia and Egypt, and no sooner had we past this bridge, but we were set vpon by the wild Arabes: and notwithstanding our great companie (for we were [Page 5] more then a thousand persons) a Camell laden with Calicoes was taken from vs, foure of our men hurt, and one of them mor­tally wounded: so away ran the Arabes with the preye, we be­ing vnable to helpe it, because it was night.

The 18. in the morning, we pitched by a well of brackish wa­ter: but I forgot to tell you, that my fellow Pilgrime M. Iohn Burrell escaped very narrowly in the last nights bickering. Here we rested our selues till three of the clocke in the afternoone, call [...]d Lasara; for the Arabians and Egyptians diuide the day but into foure partes: then we departed, and pitched the next mor­ning at a Castell in the deserts called Catga. This is one of the three castels which the Turkes kept in the deserts, to defend altrauailers from the wild Arabes: wherefore here we pay a cer­taine tare, vz. 60. pieces of siluer of two pence a piece value, for each man or boy, and 76. pieces for a Camell laden, and 14. for a Mule. Hauing paid this imposition, we departed, and pit­ched againe the 19. at another brackish well, from whence set­ting onward, we pitched the 20. of March at the second Castell called Arris, kept also by the Turkes in the said deserts, where our taxe was but 20. pieces of siluer for each passenger, and 30. for a Camell. From thence we were guided by many Soldiors to the third Castell called Raphaell, making one long iourney of 24. houres together. Here it is said that the Kings of Egypt and Iudea fought many great battailes: which to me seemed very vnlikely, because there is nothing to releeue an armie withall, except sand and salt water. There wee paid but ten pieces each passenger, and 20. for a beast: so departing thence, the 22. in ye morning, wee pitched at Gaza in Palestine, a goodly fruitfull countrey, and here we were quitted of all the deserts. In this towne I sawe the place, where (as they told vs) Samp­son puld downe the two Pillers, and slewe the Philistines: and surely it appeares to be the same towne, by reason of the scitu­ation of the countrey: here we paied 22. pieces for each beast, and 10. each passenger.

Hence we departed the 22. of March, and pitched at a place called in Arabian, Canuie, but by the Christians termed Bershe­ba, being vpon the borders of Iudea: where we paid but 2. pie­ces of siluer each one, and 4. for a beast. Departing hence, the 23. in the morning, we pitched our Tents vpon a Greene, close [Page 6] vnder the walles of Ramoth in Gilead: there I stayed all that day, and wrote eight Letters for Englād by the forenamed Ca­rauan, which went for Damasco, to be conueyed to Constantino­ple, and so for England.

The next day being the 24. in the morning, I with the other Christians set towards Ierusalem, and the great Carauan went their way for Damasco: but wee pitched short that night at a place called in Arabian Cudeche laneb, being 16. miles from Hebron, where the Sepulchre of our forefather Abraham is, and fiue little miles from Ierusalem. From thence we departed in the morning, being our Lady day in Lent, and at 9. of the clocke before noone, I sawe the cittie of Ierusalem: when kneeling downe, and saying the Lords prayer, I gaue God most hartie thankes for conducting mee thither, to behold so holy a place with mine eies, wherof I had read so often before. Cōming with­in a furlong of the gates, I with my cōpanion M. Iohn Burrell, went singing and praising God, till we came to the west gate of the Cittie, and there we staied, because it is not lawfull for a Christian to enter vnadmitted. My companiō aduised me to say I was a Greeke, onely to auoid going to Masse: but I not ha­uing the Greeke tongue, refused so to doo, telling him euen at the gates entraunce, that I would neither denie my Countrie nor Religion: whereupon being demaunded who wee were, M. Burrell (answering in the Greeke tongue) told them that he was a Greeke, and I an Englishman. This gaue him admit­tance to the Greeke Patriarke, but I was seazed on and cast in prison, before I had staied a ful houre at the gate: for the Turkes flatly denied, that they had euer heard either of my Queene or Countrey, or that she paied them any tribute. The Peter Guar­dian, who is there defender of all Christian Pilgrimes (and the principall procurer of mine imprisonment, because I did not of­fer my selfe vnder his protection, but confidently stood to be ra­ther protected vnder the Turke thē the Pope) made the Turke so much mine enemie, that I was reputed to be a spie, and so (by no meanes) could I get release from the dungeon.

Now giue me fauour to tell you, how it pleased hope (that very day) to deliuer mee, and graunt my passe as a Prote­stant, without yeelding to any other ceremonie, then cariage of a waxe candle only, farre beyond mine owne best hope or expec­tation. [Page 7] Here let me remember you, how I was stayed at Ra­moth in Gilead, where I wrote the eight Letters for Englād by the Carauan of Damasco: hauing so good leysure, I went to a Fountaine to washe my fowle linnen, and being earnest about my businesse, there suddenly came a Moore vnto me, who ta­king my clothes out of my hands, and calling me by my name, said he would help me. You doubt not but this was some amaze­ment to mee, to heare such a man call me by my name, and in place so farre distant from my freends, countrie and acquain­tance, which he perceiuing, boldly thus spake in the Franke tongue. Why Captaine, I hope you haue not forgotten me, for it is not yet fortie dayes, since you set me a land at Alexan­dria, with the rest of those passengers you brought from Argier, in your ship called the Troyan: and here is another in this Ca­rauan, whom you likewise brought in companie with you, and would not be a little glad to see you. I demaunded of him if he dwelt there: he answered me no, but both he and his fellow were going in the Carauan to Damasco, which place they call Sham, and thence to Beggdatt, which we call Babylon, thence to Mecha to make a Hadgee, for so they are called when they haue bin at Mecha: moreouer, he told me that he dwelt in the Cittie of Fesse in Barbarie. This man (in my mind) God sent to be the meanes of mine immediate deliuerie. For after I had takē good notice of him, I well remembred that I saw him in my ship; though one man among 300. is not very readily knowne: for so many brought I from Argier into those partes of different Nations, as Turkes, Moores, Iewes and Christians. I desired this man to bring me to the sight of his other companiō, which (hauing washed my linnen) he did, & him I knew very readily. These two concluded, that the one of them would depart thence with the Carauan, and the other goe along with me to Ierusa­lē, which was the Moore before remēbred: & such kind care had the Infidel of me, as he would not leaue me vnaccompanied in this strange Land, which I cannot but impute to Gods especi­all prouidence, for my deliuerance out of prison, else had I bin left in most miserable case. When this Moore sawe mee thus imprisoned in Ierusalem, my dungeon being right against the Sepulcher of Christ, albeit he wept, yet he had me be of good [Page 8] comfort. Away went he to the Bashawe of the citie, and to the Saniack, before whome he tooke his oath, that I was a Mari­ner of a Shippe, which had brought 250. or 300. Turkes and Moores into Egypt from Argier and Tunis, their iourney being vnto Mecha. This Moore (in regard he was a Muzzle-man) pre­uailed so wel with them, that returning with sixe Turkes back to the prison, he called me to the doore, and there saide vnto me: that if I would goe to the house of the Pater Guardian, and yeeld my selfe vnder his protection, I should be enforced to no religi­on but mine owne, except it were to carie a candle, to the which I willingly condescended. So paying the charges of the pri­son, I was presently deliuered, and brought to the Guardians Monastery: where the Pater comming to me, tooke mee by the hand and bad me welcome, maruailing I would so much erre from Christianitie, as to put my selfe rather vnder the Turkes then his protection. I told him, what I did, was because I would not goe to Masse, but keepe my conscience to my selfe. He replyed, that many Englishmen had beene there, but (being Catholiques) went to Masse, telling the Turks at the Gates entrance, that they were Frenchmen, for the Turkes knowe not what you meane by the worde Englishman: aduising me further, that when any of my Countreymen vndertooke the like trauaile, at the gates of Ierusalem they should tearm themselues either Frenchmen or Fritons, because they are well knowne to the Turkes. This or such like conference past betweene vs: also how old our Queenes Maiestie was, and what was the reason she gaue nothing to the maintenance of the Holy Se­pulcher, as well as other Christian Kings and Princes did? with diuers other triuial questions, whereto I answered accor­dingly. The day being spent euen to twi-light, master Iohn Burrel, who passed for a Greeke without any trouble, came in vn­to vs, being neuerthelesse constrained to this Monasterie, or else he might not stay in the citie: for such sway doe the Papistes cary there, that no Christian stranger can haue admittance there, but he must be protected vnder them, or not enter the ci­tie. Master Burrell and I being together in the Court of the Monastery, twelue fat-fed Fryers came foorth vnto vs, each of them carying a waxe candle burning, and two spare-candles beside, the one for master Burrel, the other for me. Another Frier [Page 9] brought a great Bason of warme water, mingled with Ro­ses and other sweete flowers, and a Carpet being spread on the ground, and Cushions in Chaires set orderly for vs: the Pater Guardian came and set vs downe, giuing each of vs a Candle in our hands, then came a Frayer and puld off our hose, and (set­ting the Bason on the Carpet) washed our feete. So soone as the Fryer began to wash, the twelue Fryers began to sing, cō ­tinuing so till our feete were washed: which being done, they went along singing, & we with the Guardian came to a Chap­pell in the Monastery, where one of them began an Oration in forme of a Sermon, tending to this effect: how meritorious it was for vs to visit the Holy land, & see those sanctified places where our Sauiours feete had trode. The Sermon being en­ded they brought vs to a chamber where our supper was prepa­red: there we fed somwhat fearefully, in regard y strange cates haue as strange qualities: but committing our selues to God, & their outward-appearing Christian kindnesse, we fell to harti­ly, supt very bountifully, & afterward (praysing God) were lod­ged decently. Thus much for my first daies entertainement in Ierusalem, which was the 25. day of March 1601. being our La­dy day in Lent. Now followes what the Fryers afterward shewed mee, being thereto appointed by the Pater Guar­dian.

Earely the next morning we arose, and hauing saluted the Pater Guardian, he appointed vs seauen Friers and a Trouchman: so foorth we went to see all the holy places in the citie which were to be seene, except those in Sepulchra sancta, for that re­quired a whole daies work afterward, and at euery place where we came, we kneeled downe, and saide the Lords prayer.

The first place of note that the Fryers shewed vs, was the place iudiciall: next, the house of Veronica sancta: and deman­ding of them what Saint that was, they told me it was shee that did wipe our Sauiours face, as he passed by in his agonie. Descending a little lower in the same street, they shewed mee the way which our Sauiour went to crucifying, called by them Via dolorosa. Then on the right hand in the same street, I was showne the house of the rich glutton, at whose gate poore des­pised Lazarus lay. Holding on our way downe this streete, wee came to a turning passage on the left hand: whence they tolde [Page 10] me Simon Sirenus was comming toward the Dolorous way, when the Soldiours seeing him, called him, and compeld him against his will to helpe our Sauiour to carie his crosse. Then they told mee, that in the same place the people wept, when Christ an­swering said vnto them: Oh daughters of Ierusalem, weepe not for mee. &c. Next, they shewed me the Church, where the vir­gine Marie fell into an agonie, when Christ passed by, carying his Crosse. Afterward they brought mee to Pilates Palace, which though it be all ruinated, yet is there an olde Arche of stone, which is still maintained by the Christians, and it stan­ding full in the high way, wee passed vnder it: much like the way of passage vnder master Hammons house in the Bulwarke, but that the Arch is higher: for vpon that Arche is a Gallerie, which admitteth passage (ouer our heads) from one side of the streete to the other: for Pilates Palace extended ouer the high way on both sides, and Pilate had two greate windowes in the saide Gallerie, to gaze out both waies into the streete, as ma­ster Hammon hath the like aduantage at both his windowes. Into this Gallery was our Sauiour brought, when hee was showen vnto the Iewes, and they standing belowe in the street, heard the words of Ecce homo. A little from this place, is the foote of the staires, where our Sauiour did first take vp his Crosse. Then they brought mee to the place, where the vir­gine Marie was conceiued and borne, which is the Church of Saint Anna, and no Turkish Church. Next, they shewed me the Poole, where Christ cleansed the Leapers, and then gui­ding mee to Saint Stephens gate, a little without it vpon the left hand, they shewed mee the stone wheron S. Stephen was stoned. From hence I sawe the staires going vp to porte Au­rea, at which porte are diuers reliques to be seen: it was the East gate of the Temple, which Salomon built vpon mount Moria, in which Temple was the place of Sanctum Sancterum: but now in that place is builded a goodly greate Church, belonging to the Turkes. Thus spent I the second day, being the 26. of March, all within the gates of Ierusalem, except my going to see the stone wherewith S. Stephen was stoned.

The next day, being the 27. of March, hauing done our du­tie to God and the Pater Guardian, we hyred Asses for the Fri­ers and the Trouchman to ride on, and going foorth the citie [Page 11] gates, we mounted and rode directly toward Bythinea. By the way as we rode, they shewed me the place of the fruitlesse Fig­tree, which Christ cursed: next, the Castle of Lazarus, that Lazarus whome Christ loued so well: for his house or Castle is in Bythinea, but it is vtterly ruinated, and nothing to be seene but the two sides of a wall. In the same towne, they shewed me the house of Marie Magdalen, but al so ruinated, that nothing is left of it but a piece of a wall: there I sawe likewise Mar­thaes house, consisting of three pieces of a wall: and thence they brought me to the stone, where the two sisters tolde Christ that Lazarus was deade: from whence passing on, they shewed me the place where our Sauiour raised Lazarus from death, after he had lien three daies in the ground, and where he was buried afterward when he died. This place hath bin not ably kept from the beginning, and is repaired still by the Christians, but yet in poore and very bare sort, and this is all that I saw in Bythinia. Frō hence we rode vnto Mount Oliuet, & passing by Bethphage, they brought me to the place, where our Sauiour tooke the Asse and Colte, when he rode to Ierusalem vpon Palme Sunday. Riding from Bethphage directly to the North, wee came to the foote of Mount Oliuet, where they shewed me the place Benedi­cta of the virgin Maries Annunciation, and ascending to the top of the Mount wee saw the place of our Sauiours Ascension: at the sight whereof we said our Prayers, and were commaunded withal to say 5. Pater nosters, and 5. Aue Maries: but we said the Lords praier, tooke notice of the place and departed. This is the very highest parte of Mount Oliuet, and hence may be discerned many notable places: as first West from it is the prospect of the new Cittie of Ierusalem: Southwest from it may be seene the prospect of Mount Sion, which is adioyning to new Ierusalem: also in the valley betweene Sion and the mount whereon I stood, I sawe the brooke Cedron, the Poole Silo, the Garden wherein our Sauiour praied, the place where afterward he was betrayed, and diuers other notable things in this valley of Gethsemanie: as the Tombe of Absolon, king Dauids sonne, the Tombe of Iehoshaphat, and others which I will speake of as I come to them. Full South frō mount Oliuet, I could see the pla­ces we came last from, as all Bythinia and Bethphage: also East North-east from this mount, may be scene both the riuer of Ior­dan [Page 12] which is some 15. miles off, and Iericho, which is not so farre, because it is to the Westward of Iordan. From mount Oliuet East and East-South-east, may be seene the lake of So­dome and Gomorrha, which is some 100. miles long, & 8. miles ouer: all these places I set with the Compasse when I was on mount Oliuet, for I staied on the top of it some two houres and a halfe, hauing a little Compasse about me. Descending hence toward the foote Westward, wee came to a place where the Friers told me, that a woman called S. Pelagia did penaunce in the habit of a Frier: whereat I smiling, they demaunded why I did so? I answered, that to beleeue Pelagia was a Saint, stood out of the compasse of my Creede: they tolde me, when I should come home at night, they would shew me sufficient Au­thours for it: but when I came home I had so much to doo, in writing my notes out of my table bookes, that I had no leysure to vrge their Authours for S. Pelagia.

By this time they brought vs to the place, where our Saui­our did foresee the iudgement, then where he made the Pater noster, and then where the Apostles made the Creede. From hence wee came to the place where Christ wept for Ierusalem: thence, to the place where the virgin Marie gaue the gyrdle to S. Thomas: and then to the place where she prated for S. Stephen: all these last were comming downe mount Oliuet, towards the valley of Gethseminie, where by the way we came to our La­dies Church, wherein is her Sepulcher, and the Sepulcher of her husband Ioseph, with the Sepulcher of Anna, and many o­thers in that Church. This Church standeth at the foote of Mount Oliuet, and was built (as they say) by Helena the mother of Constantine the great: here the Friers went into the virgin Maries sepulcher, & there either said Masse, or Praiers, while we in meane time went to dinner. In this Church is a fountaine of exceeding fine water, & in regard we went downe into a vault as it were, it giueth a meruailous loude Eccho or sound. Hence went we to the Caue, whether Iudas came to betray Christ whē he was at prayer, and thence to the Garden where our Sauiour left his Disciples, commaunding them to watch and praie; but found them sleeping at his returne: then they brought me to the Garden where Christ was taken, and all these last three were in the valley of Gethsemanie. Riding vnto the towne [Page 13] whereof the valley beares name) on the left hand I saw the be­fore remembred Sepulchers of Absolon and Iehoshaphat, and on the right hand, the brooke Cedron, which at my being there had not one drop of water in it: for (indeed) it is but a ditche to conuay the water from the two hilles (I meane Mount Oli­uet, and mount Sion) when any store of raine falleth, and this ditche or brooke Cedron is in the valley betweene both those hilles. Hard by the brooke Cedron, they shewed me a stone marked with the feete and elbowes of Christ, in their throw­ing of him downe when as they tooke him, and euer since (say they) haue those prints remained there. From hence wee rode to the place, where S. Iames the younger did hide himselfe, and afterward was buried there: there also they shewed where Za­chariah the sonne of Barachiah was buried, and brought me to another place, where (they say) the virgin Marie vsed often to pray. Then came we to the Poole of Silo, wherein M. Burrell and I washed our selues, and hence wee were shewen the place where the Prophet Esay was sawne in pieces: thence they guided vs to an exceeding deepe Well, where the Iewes (as they say) hid the holy fire in the time of Nabuchodonozor. Here we ascended from the valley to a hill side, which lieth iust South from mount Sion: but there is a great valley betweene, called Gehemion, and there they shewed me the place where the Apo­stles hid themselues, being a Caue in a rocke. Ascending higher hence, they brought me to the field, or rather to be more right­ly tearmed the Rocke, where the common buriall place is for straungers, being the very same (as they say) which was bought with the thirtie pieces of siluer, that Iudas receiued as the price of his Maister, which place is called Aceldoma, and is fashio­ned as followeth. It hath three holes aboue, & on the side there is a vent: at the vpper holes they vse to let downe the dead bo­dies to the estimation of some 50. foote downe. In this place I saw two bodies, new or very lately let downe, and looking downe (for by reason of the three great holes aboue, where the dead bodies lye, it is very light) I receiued such a sauour vp in­to my heade, as it made me very sicke, so that I was glad to entreat the Friers to goe no further, but to returne home to the citie. So here we went through the vallie of Gehemion, and at the foote of mount Sion (hauing a little bottle of water which [Page 14] I brought from the Poole Silo) I branke, and rested there an houres space, eating a fewe Raisins and Oliues, which wee brought with vs from Ierusalem in the morning. After I had well rested and refreshed my selfe, we began to ascend mount Si­on, and a little way vp the hill, they shewed me the place, where Peter hauing denyed Christ, and hearing the Cock crowe, went out and wept. Ascending higher, they shewed mee the house where ye virgine Marie dwelt, which was near vnto ye Temple: then they brought me to the place, where the Iewes setting on the blessed virgine to take her, she was conuayed away by mi­racle. Hence we went to the house of Caiphas, which was som­what higher vpon mount Sion, and there I sawe the prison wherein our Sauiour was detained. Passing on still higher, they guided mee to a little Chappell which is kept by the Ar­menians, whereinto entring, at the high Altar they shewed me y stone which was vpon our Sauiours Sepulcher (as they say) and it is neer to the place where Peter denyed Christ, for there they shewed me the Piller, whereon the Cocke stood when hee crowed. Hence was I brought to the place where our Saui­our made his last Supper, and thence I came where the holy Ghost descended vpon the Apostles: whence passing on, they shewed me the place where Christ appeared to his Disciples, the eight day after his Resurrection, when S. Thomas desired to see his woundes. Neere to this place vpon mount Sion, the vir­gin Marie died, and hard by they shewed me a place bought by the Pope of the Turkes, for buriall of the Europian Christians, because he would not haue them cast into Aceldama: they tolde vs that the yeare before, fiue Englishmen were buried in that place, whether by the Friers poisoning them, or howsoeuer else it happened, but we thought it straunge, that all fiue should die together in one weeke. Thence came we to the house of Annas the high Priest, which is now but a paire of very old walles, & nothing else of it to be seene: but at the side of one of the walles, is an old Oliue tree, whereto they told me that our Sauiour was fast bound: and demaunding a further reason thereof, they said, that when he was brought vnto this house, Annas being a­sleepe, his people would not awake him: so during their time of stay, they bound him to the said Oliue tree, and when he a­waked, then he was brought in and examined.

[Page 15] Departing hence toward the Southgate of the citie, which standeth likewise vpon mount Sion, wee alighted from our Asses: and entring, I noated it well, for now I had seene three of the foure gates. And being desirous to see the North­gate also, they brought me to the Church of S. Thomas▪ which is within the wall all ruinated: then to the Churche of [...]. Marke, whether Peter came, being deliuered out of prison by y Angell that brake open the gate. Then they shewed me the house of Zebedeus, whence wee came to a place kept by the Abashenes, & there ascending first by a darke way, ledde on by a line or corde, wee attained to a high place neere to the Se­pulchra sancta, where I paid two pieces of siluer to goe in, and being entred, I demaunded what place it was▪ the same (quoth they) where Abraham would haue sacrificed his senne Isaac. Thence went wee to the prison wherein S. Peter, and S. Iohn were, being the next doore to the prison wherin I was put before: which made me the sorier, that it was not my for­tune to haue gone into it, being so neere it. Hence we came to the North-gate, being on mount Caluarie side, where ha­uing well viewed the gate, and perceiuing it waxed late, we went directly home: this was my third daies worke in and about Ierusalem, wearied not a little with often alighting to pray: for at each seuerall place before recounted, we dismoun­ted and said the Lords praier on our knees.

On the morrow, being the 28. early in the morning wee tooke our Asses, riding forth at the Westgate, through which I first entred, and passing on to the Southward, we left moūt Sion on the left hand: at the foote whereof they shewed me the house of Vriah, and the Fountaine where Bersaba washed her selfe, when king Dauid espied her out of his Turret. Thence went we to the place, where the Angell tooke vp Abacuck by the hayre of the head, to carie meate to Daniell in the Lions denne. Next came we to the place, where the wise men found the Starre when it was lost, and then where the virgin Ma­rie rested her selfe vnder a tree, as shee came from Bethlem to Ierusalem, which tree they still repaice, by setting another close to the roote of it. Hence roade wee to the house of Elias the Prophet, where they shewed me his vsuall place of slee­ping: and this house standeth so vpon a hill, as from thence [Page 16] I did see Bethlem a farre off. Thence went we to an old rui­nated house, which they told me was Iacobs: which may the better appeare to be so, for in the field thereto adioining, is the Tombe of Rachell Iacobs wife: and some two miles from this Tombe, is a towne in the same field called Bethesula, the inhabitants whereof are all Christians. In this great field (being betweene Ierusalem and Bethlem) did lie the Campe of Senacherib, when hee besieged Ierusalem. From hence we rode to the field, where the Angels brought tidings of great ioy to the Shepheards, which is two miles from Beth­lem: and thence we rode to Bethlem to the Monastery, wher­in are some 10. Friers: who welcomed me very kindly, and brought me first into a great Church, then into a large en­trie, wherein I sawe the name of M. Hugo Stapers twise set one aboue another, and betweene them both I set my name. Then they guided mee downe the staiers into a vault, where was a Chappell set in the place of our Sauiours Natiuitie, enclosing both it, and the maunger wherein Christ was laid, and also the place where he was presented with gifts by the Wise men. Ouer this Chappell is a great Church, built by Q. Helena mother to Constantine the Great (as they say) and further in I sawe diuers Tombes of holy men and others. Going vp to the top of the Church, I saw vpon the leads the name of M. Hugo Stapers againe ingranen, which made mee looke the earnestlier for some other Englishmens names: but finding none, I carued downe my name and came away thē went we in and dined with the Friers. After dinner, they brought me to the place where the virgin Marie hid her selfe, when search was made to kill the children. So taking my l [...]aue of Bethlem, giuing the Friers three pieces of gold, for my dinner and my companie with me, being 8. in number: mounting on our Asses, wee rode to the Well, where King Dauids three Captaines fetched water for him, through the whole hoste of the Philistines: which Well standeth a little way from Bethlem, towards Ierusalem, and hath three places to draw water vp at. Hence went we presently backe to Ie­rusalem, entring the gate at foure of the clocke in the after­noone, and at 5. the Turkes let vs in to the Sepulchra sancta, each of vs paying 9. pieces of gold for our entraunce. No soo­ner [Page 17] were we in, but they locked the gates, so there I said till 11. of the clocke the next day, and then came we foorth: now followes what I sawe in Sepulchra sancta. First I noted hanging without the gate, at the least 100. lines or strings, and in the gate is a great hole, whereat a little child may ea­stly creepe in: whereof demaunding the reason, they told me that the hole serued to giue victuals at, for them which lie within the Church, which are aboue 300. persons, men and women, all Christians, and there liue they continually night and day, nor can they haue passage in or out, but when the Turkes doe open the gate for some Pilgrime, which happe­neth not sometimes in 14. daies: wherefore these Christian liegers in the Church, haue there their whole housholds, and boorded lodgings there builded for them. The strings before spokē of, hanging at the gate, haue each one a bell fastened at the lodgings, and when their seruants (which are without) bring them any meate, each rings the bell belonging to his houshold, & so come accordingly (each knowing their owne Bell) for receipts of their food. The seuerall sort of Christi­ans, which I saw in this Church, I wil in order describe vn­to you.

First, the Romaines, for they beare the greatest way of al. Secōdly, the Greekes, for they are next in number to the Ro­maines, yet little better then slaues to the Turke. Thirdly, the Armenians, who haue bin so long time seruants to the Turke, that hauing forgotten their owne language, they vse al their ceremonies in the Arabian tongue, & so I heard them. The fourth sorte of Christians, are Nestorians, who are as slaues to the Turke, and haue no other language then the A­rabian. The fift, are the Abashenes, being people of the land of Prester Iohn. The sixt, are the Iacobines, who are circum­cised Christians, but slaues likewise & seruāts to the Turke. All these (Christians in name) haue bought of the Turke their seuerall places in this Church, and by-roomes for ease, being neuer fewer in number of all these sixe sorts then 250. or 300. continually there lying, & praying after their māner. The places where they ordinarily vse to goe & say their de­uotions, are thus as I describe them, & as the Romane Friers brought me to them; 1. the Piller whereat our Sauiour [Page 18] was whipped. 2. the place where he was imprisoned, while they were preparing or making his Crosse. 3. where the Souldiours deuided his garments. 4. where the crosse was found by Q. Helena, which is at the foote of mount Caluarie, & hard by it is the chappel of the said Q. Helena. 5. the place where Christ was crowned with thornes: which I could not see, til I was glad to giue the Abashenes that kept it two pieces of siluer. 6. the place where the Crosse being laid a­long on the ground, our Sauiour was nayled fast vnto it. 7. The place on the top of mount Caluarie wherin the crosse stood when as hee suffered. 8. The Rocke that rent at his crucifying, which is a thing well worth the beholding for it is slitte, like as it had bin eleft with wedges and beetles, euen from the top to the two third partes downward, as it were through the brow and breast of y Rocke: nor is the rent small, but so great in some places, that a man might easily hide himselfe in it, and so groweth downeward lesse and lesse. 9. The place where the three Maries annointed Christ af­ter he was dead. 10. where he appeared to Mary Magdalen in the likenesse of a Gardiner, and hence we came to the Se­pulcher it selfe, which is the last place where they vse any prayers: from whence I went to see the Tombes of Bald­win and Godfrey of Bulloigne, and returning thence backe to the Sepulcher, I measured the distaunce betweene place and place, spending thus the time from fiue of the clocke be­fore night when I went in, vntill the next day at eleuen of the clocke at my comming foorth, writing downe all things which I thought note-worthie.

My companion M. Iohn Burrell and I beyng thus come foorth of the Church, we went to the Pater Guardians to din­ner, where we heard tidings that fiue other Englishmē were arriued at the citie gates, directing towards Alepo. Their names were M. William Bedle, preacher to the English mer­chants which are Liegers at Alepo: M. Edward Abbot, ser­uaunt to the right Worshipfull sir Iohn Spenser: M. Geffrey Kirbie, seruant to the worshipfull M. Paule Banning: and lie­gers for them in Alepo: two other young men, the one cal­led Iohn Elkynes, the other Iasper Tymne. These fiue (hearing of my being there) came all to the house, and these (though [Page 19] they sawe not mine imprisonment, nor were with me at the sight of those things in and about Ierusalem) can witnesse that they were acquainted therewith at the gates, and estfice the other truthes beside. These men, as also my companion M. Iohn Burrell, I left behind me in Ierusalem, departing thence to see other places in the countrie of Palestine: but let me first tel you, what I obserued in the cities scituation, b [...]cause I was enfourmed before I came to see it, that it was all rui­ned, albeit (on the sight thereof) I found it otherwise, ha­uing a little Compasse about me, to set such places as I could easily come by.

Understand then first of all, that the very heart of the olde citie was seated on mount Sion and mount Moria: to the north part whereof, was mount Caluarie without the gates of the old citie, about a stones cast and no further. But now I finde this newe citie scituated so farre to the North part, that it is almost quite off of moūt Sion but yet not off mount Moria, which was betweene mount Sion and mount Caluary: so that now (vndoubtedly) the South walles of the citie, are placed on the north foote of the hill of Sion. The east wall which doth confront mount Oliuet, is a great part of the an­cient wall, and so from the south-east angle north, a quarter of a mile behinde mount Caluarie: so that mount Caluarie, which was in former times a stones cast without the citie, and the appointed place for ordinarie execution, I finde it to bee now seated in the hart or middle of the new citie. This moūt Caluarie is not so high as to be called a mount, but rather a pyked or aspyring Rocke for I noated the scituation of it, both when I was at the toppe of it, and when I came to the Sepulcher: the Sepulcher being distant frō it (I mean from the foote of it) 173. foote, as I measured it: wher [...] vpon I conclude, that the place of buriall, which Ioseph of Aramathia made for him selfe, was frō the foot of moūt Caluarie, 173. foot westward, in which place is the Sepulcher of our Sauiour. The Sepulcher it selfe is two foote and a halfe high from the grounde, eight foote in length, and foure foote broade wanting three inches, being couered with a faire stone of white colour. Ouer the Sepulcher is a Chappell builded, the North wall whereof is ioyned close with the North side [Page 20] of the Sepulcher: and the Chappell is of like stone as the Sepulcher is, consisting of fifteene foote in bredth, fiue and twentie foote in length, and about fortie foote in height. In this Chappel are alwais burning thirtie or forty Lamps, but vpon Festiuall daies more: which are maintained by gifts giuen at the death of Christians in Spaine, Florence, & other parts, to be kept continually burning: and the giuers of these Lamps haue their names ingrauen about the vpper edges of them, in letters of golde, standing in a band of gold or siluer. This Chappell is inclosed with a Church, and yet not it onely, but therewith is circkled in all the before na­med holy places, vz. where Christ was whipt: where hee was in prison: where his garments were deuided: where the crosse was found: where he was crowned with thornes: where he was nailed on the crosse: where the crosse stoode when he suffered: where the vaile of the Temple rent: where the three Maries annointed him: where he appeared to Marie Magdalen: & in briefe, al the most notable things either about mount Caluarie, or Iosephes field of Aramathia, are enclosed within the compasse of this Church, which was builded by the fore-remembred Queene Helena, mother to Constantine the greate, shee being (as I haue read in some Authors) an English woman, and daughter to king Coell, that builded Colchester: which being vrged to them, they denyed it. I measured this Church within, and found it to bee 422. fa­domes about, the one side of it likewise I found to be 130. fa­domes: thus much for mount Caluarie, which is in the mid­dest of the citie now.

From the North-east angle of the citie, to the North-west, is the shortest way of the citie, and from the North-west angle to the South-west, is as farre as from the South-east to the North-east: but from the South-west to the South-east, which is the south wall that standeth on the foote of mount Sion, I measured, and found it to be 3775. foote, which is about three quarters of a mile. Upon this south-side of the citie, is a great Iron gate, about which gate are laide seauenteene pieces of brasse ordinance: this gate is as great as the west gate of the Tower of London, & exceeding strong, the walles being very thicke, and on the south-side 50. or 60. [Page 21] foote high: so much for the south wall and side of the citie. The North wall is not altogither so long, but much stron­ger: for on the Northside it hath beene often surprized, but on the southside neuer: and on the East side it is impregnable by reason of the edge of the hill which it standeth on, which is fiue times as high as the wall. On the north side also are 25. pieces of brasse ordinance neere to the gate, which is of Iron also: but what is in other places, as at the corners or angles, I could not come to see, and demaund I durst not. The east wall, containing the gate where saint Stephen was stoned a little without, and to this day called saint Stephens gate: I saw but fiue pieces of ordinance there, and they were betweene the gate and the relique of port Aurea, which is to the southward: and concerning the west side of the citie, at the gate whereof I entred at my first arriuall, it is verie strong likewise, and hath fifteene pieces of ordinance lying neere togither, and all of brasse. This gate is also made of Iron, and this West wall is altogither as long as the East wall, but it standeth vpon the higher ground: so that com­ming from the west to the west wall, you can see nothing within the citie but the bare wall: but vpon mount Oliuet, comming towards the citie from the East, you haue a verie goodly prospect of the citie, by reason the citie standeth al on the edge of the hill. To conclude, this citie of Ierusalem is the strongest of all the cities, that I haue yet seene in my iourney, since I departed from the Grand Cayro: but the rest of the countrey is very easie to be intreated: yet in the citie of Ierusalem are three Christians for one Turke, and many Christians in the countrey round about, but they all liue poorely vnder the Turke.

Now concerning how the country about Ierusalem lyeth, for your more easie and perfect vnderstanding, I will famili­arly compare the seuerall places, wt some of our natiue Eng­lish townes and villages, according to such true estimation as I heer made of them. Imagin then I begin with London, as if it were the citie of Ierusalem.

The citie of Bethlem, where Christ our Sauiour was born, is from Ierusalem as Wansworth is from London, I meane much vpon that point in distance.

[Page 22] The plaine of Mamre, is from Ierusalem as Guildford is from London: in which place or neere to it, is the citie of He­bron, where our father Abraham lyeth buried.

Beersheba is from Ierusalem, as Alton is from London.

Ramoth Gylead is from Ierusalem, as Reading is from London.

Gaza, which is the South-west part of Palestine, is from Ierusalem as Salisbury is from London.

Ascalon is from Gaza North-east.

Ioppa is from Ierusalem, as Alberry is from London.

Samaria is from Ierusalem, as Royston is from London.

The c [...]ie of Nazareth is from Ierusalem, as Norwich is from London.

From Nazareth to mount Tabor and Hermon, is 5. miles North-east: these two dost and very nerre together, Tabor be­ing the greater.

From Tabor to the Sea Tyberias, is eight miles northeast.

From Ierusalem to mount Sinai is ten daies iourney, and north-east thence.

These places last spoken of (beginning at Samaria) I was not in: but the other fiue Englishmen that met me in Ierusa­lem, comming through Galilee, they came through them, and of them I had this description: they receiued of me, likewise, the description of my iourney through Palestine.

The place where Christ fasted 40. daies and 40. nights, called Quarranto, is from Ierusalem as Chelmesford is from London.

The riuer Iordane (the very neerest part of it) is from Ie­rusalem as Epping is from London.

Iericho, the neerest part of the plaine thereof, is from Ie­ursalem as Lowton hall (sir Robert Worths house) is from London.

The Lake of Sodome and Gomorrah, is from Ierusalem as Grauesend is from London.

The riuer Iordane runneth into this Lake, and there dieth: which is one of y greatest secrets (in my minde) in the world, that a fresh water should runne continually into this salt Lake, and haue no issue out, but there dyeth, and the saide Lake continuing still so salt, as no waight (of any reasonable [Page 23] substance) will sinke into it, but alwaies floateth: as, a deade man, or a dead beast will neuer goe downe. Nay more, what­soeuer is brought into it by the riuer Iordane, of any reasona­ble poyze besides the water, it abideth continually vpon the superficies of the Lake, and so being tossed thereon by the force of weather, maketh a cougealed forthe: which frothe being driuen vp vpon y banks, it becommeth a kinde of black substāce like Pitch, which there they cal Bytumen, wherof I haue brought some part frō thence. This Lake is about eight or nine miles broad, & an hundred miles in length, stretching from the north, where Iordane falles into it, vnto the south­ward, and hath no further issue that hath bene seene by any man.

The field where the Angell brought tydings of ioy to the Sheepheards, is from Ierusalem as Greenwich from London.

Mount Oliuet is from Ierusalem, as Bowe from London.

Bethanie is from Ierusalem, as Blackwall from London.

Bethphage is from Ierusalem, as Mile-end from London.

The valley of Gethsemanie is from Ierusalem, as Ratcliffe fields from London.

The brooke Cedron is from Ierusalem, as the ditch without Algate, which runnes to the Tower from London.

Mount Sion is now adioyning to new Ierusalem, as South­warke to London.

Thus as plainely, as the time afforded me, haue I descri­bed vnto you the scituation of the city of Ierusalem, and how the Country lyeth neere adioyning, which by the familiar comparisons, you may the easter vnderstand. But come we now to the most especiall thing of all, to see how iustly the Scriptures are fulfilled, that Ierusalem should bee made a heape of stones: the certainty and trueth whereof, all such as haue bene there (considering and marking it so deepely as I haue done) are able to report: for I could see no ground neer to the citie by fifteene or sixteene miles distance (the plaine of of Iericho excepted) but it is all a heape of stones, yea, and i [...] such exceeding abundance, as I wonder how they can liue in it. It for [...]u [...]ed, my selfe, M. Iohn, and my Moore, beeing within fiue miles of the citie, and lodging in the fields all night, I sent my Moore to a house not farre off, to buy vs [Page 24] some breade, for we had nothing to eate: and he returning to vs, brought vs word, that the master of the house nor his chil­dren did euer eate any bread in all their liues: for such is the poore estate of the country, that a man may goe ten miles, before you can see a plot of ground to feede a horse or a Cowe on: yet the countries round about it, as Palestine on the one side, Galilie on the other, and Syria to the west, are all most goodly plentifull countries: and Ierusalem it selfe, which I thought to haue found the very fruitfullest place of all, is the most barrennest place that I sawe in all my trauaile, the de­serts onely excepted. I can compare no place in England therewith for the like sterilitie, vnlesse the vnfruitfulst place in Cornwall, where there is nothing but rockes and stones, & daily (by the report of the inhabitants) the stones growe and encrease more and more. In briefe, let all men that haue beene there, or hereafter shall goe thither, speake but rightly and without flattery, and then they will say with mee, that Ierusalem, and fifteene miles about it euery way, is no other then a heape of stones, and the barrennest place in all Meso­potamia. And I am of this minde, that it is quite forsaken of the Lord: for assuredly the greater part of Turkes, inhabi­ting there, doe vse all manner of most odious filthinesse: in­somuch, that the Christian dwellers there are forced to mar­ry their children very young, yea, euen at ten yeares of age, for feare least the Turkes should defile or alter them. Boyes they keepe openly, & shame not to set them at their doores, to shew which of them hath the fairest: & (as the better sort of Christians haue told mee) there is not that sinne to be found in the world, but it raigneth & florisheth in Ierusalem: wher­fore they vse these words of it; Terra sancta, è no mais, to wit, it is the Holy land in name, and no more: yea, the veriest In­fidell in al the countrie calleth it so, for in the Arabian tongue they call it by the name of Cutse, that is, holy.

So, hauing my Pattent sealed with the great seale of the Pater Guardian, and another Letter pattent, shewing that I washed in the water of Iordane: the 31. of. March I depar­ted from Ierusalem, in companie of my Moore that holpe me out of prison. The 31. at night I came to Ramoth Gilead, and the 1. of Aprill to Ascalon: the 2. to Gaza, which is on the bor­ders [Page 25] of the Deserts, where I hyred two wild Arabes with two Dromedaries, to carie me to the citie of Grand Cayro. These wild Arabes are no other then theeues, for they are such as make daily prize of Christians, Turkes, Moores & all sortes of people, onely their owne nation excepted. With these two Arabes and my Moore I departed frō Gaza, hauing no other companie, and that day (being the 3. of Aprill) wee ran these Dromedaries so hard, as at night I began to waxe very wea­rie: wherefore I bad my Moore tell the Arabes, that I would eate a fewe Raisins and rest a little: so we all alighted, for we rode two vpon each beast, and hauing made thē fast, we went to supper. In meane while, one of the Dromedaries brake loose, and ran backe againe, which made one of the Arabes take the other beast and presently ride after. The other A­rabe went to a crosse way ouer a sand hill, and turnd himselfe so, that both the men & beasts were out of our sight. Then it began to growe darke, and I hauing no companie but my Moore, went alone to the top of the said hill, to see if I could espie either of my theeues: when suddenly I sawe foure other comming towards me: and by that time I recouered the place where I left my Moore, one of them was close at my heeles, and bad the Moore bring me to him. The Moore tolde them that I had nothing, but was to be carried in foure dayes to Cayro by two of their companions, whose names he deliuered to them: whereon they replied, that if this were true, they would doo me no hurt: but if the other returned not with the beasts, then they would make prize of vs both. At this time I had nothing to loose but the clothes on my back, (verie dearely rated at ten groates value) for I had promised the two Arabes, to pay them 24. pieces of gold, so soone as they brought mee to the Grand Cayro: but my life was the thing I most of all feared. Within 2. houres after, my two theeues returned, when I might perceiue the other foure and them to be all fellowes: so they gaue them a fewe Raisins and a little water, whereupon the foure immediately departed: but questionlesse if my Moore had not bin there with me, I had bin caried quite away. The 4. day we came to a place where the the euer had Lents, & there they gaue me Camels milke, and the next night we came to Salhia on the other side of the [Page 26] Deserts: where being sore shaken (albeit my bodie was well wrapped with rollers) I was constrained to giue them ouer, and hyre two horses.

The Dromedarie is a kinde of beast like to a Camell, only his head is lesser, and his legs somewhat longer, with a ve­ry small neck: and this difference (in comparison) is be­tweene a Dromedary and a Camell, as is betweene a Grey-hound and a Mastiffe dogge. During the foure daies, the time of my comming from Gaza to Grand Cayro, I neuer sawe them eate or drinke: it is saide they will fast from water tun daies and neuer drinke, but not so long from me at. Thus came I in 4. daies as farre, as I was going out from Grand Cayro in twelue daies: yet for all this, I thinke a good horse will run faster, but is no way able to cōtinue with this beast, whose pase is a trot, or rather harder if it be possible. At Cayro I paid my theeues and my two Horses, sending them away, and gaue mine honest Moore sixe pieces of gold, with some other things beside to his contentment, and sent him to Mecha with the Carauan. The 7. I staied in Cayro al day, and at night came to Bollake, where I tooke a boate: and the 10. of Aprill at nine of the clocke in the morning, I came to Rosetta, where taking horse with a Iauezarie, I came that night to the walles of Alexandria, where I lay all night, be­cause the gates were shut before I came. On the morrow be­ing the 11. I went aboord my Ship the Troyane, in perfect health and safetie, I thanke my God, hauing bin out in my Pilgrimage from Alexandria iust 50. daies.


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