Taylor his trauels: from the citty of London in England, to the citty of Prague in Bohemia The manner of his abode there three weekes, his obseruations there, and his returne from thence: how he past 600 miles downe the riuer of Elue, through Bohemia, Saxony, Anhalt, the bishoprick of Madeberge, Brandenberge, Hamburgh, and so to England. With many relations worthy of note. By Iohn Taylor.

Taylor his trauels: from the citty of London in England, to the citty of Prague in Bohemia The manner of his abode there three weekes, his obseruations there, and his returne from thence: how he past 600 miles downe the riuer of Elue, through Bohemia, Saxony, Anhalt, the bishoprick of Madeberge, Brandenberge, Hamburgh, and so to England. With many relations worthy of note. By Iohn Taylor.

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TAYLORS TRAVELS, FROM THE CITTY of London in England, to the Citty of Prague in Bohemia.

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TAYLORS TRAVELS, FROM THE CITTY of London in England, to the Citty of Prague in Bohemia.

I Come from Bohem, yet no newes I bring,

Of busines 'twixt the Keysar and the king:

My Muse dares not ascend the lofty staires

Of state, or write of Princes great affaires.

And as for newes of battells, or of War,

Were England from Bohemia thrice as far:

Yet we do know (or seeme to know) more heere

Then was, is, or will euer be knowne there.

At Ordinaries, and at Barbers shopps,

There tydings vented are, as thick as hopps,

How many thousands such a day were slaine,

What men of note were in the battell ta'ne,

When, where, and how the bloody fight begun,

And how such sconces, and such townes were won;

How so and so the armies brauely met,

And which side glorious victory did get:

The month, the weeke, the day, the very houre,

And time, they did oppose each others powre,

These things in England prating fooles do chatter,

When all Bohemia knowes of no such matter.

[Page]For all this summer, that is gone and past,

Vntill the first day of October last,

The armies neuer did together meete,

Nor scarce their eie sight did each other greet:

The fault is neither in the foote or horse,

Of the right valiant braue Bohemian force,

From place to place they daily seeke the foe,

They march, and remarch, watch, ward, ride, run, goe,

And grieuing so to waste the time away,

Thirst for the hazard of a glorious day.

But still the enemy doth play bopeepe,

And thinkes it best in a whole skin to sleepe,

For neither martiall pollicy, or might,

Or any meanes can draw the foe to fight:

And now and then they conquer, spoile and pillage,

Some few thatcht houses, or some pelting village;

And to their trenches run away againe,

Where they like foxes in their holes remaine,

Thinking by lingring out the warres in length,

To weaken and decay the Beamish strength.

This is the newes, which now I meane to booke,

He that will needes haue more, must needes go looke.

Thus leauing warres, and matters of high state,

To those that dare, and knowes how to relate,

I'le onely write how I past heere and there,

And what I haue obserued euery where,

I'le truely write what I haue heard and eyed,

And those that will not so be satisfied,

I (as I meete them) will some tales deuise,

And fill their cares (by word of mouth) with lies:

[Page]THe month that beares a mighty Emp'rours name,

(Augustus hight) I passed downe the streame,

Friday the fourth, Iust sixteene hundred twenty

Full moone, the signe in Piscis, that time went I;

The next day being saturday, a day,

Which all greate Brittaine well remember may,

When all with thankes do annually combine,

Vnto th' Almighty maiesty diuine,

Because that day, in a most happy season,

Our Soueragne was preseru'd from Gouries treason;

Therefore to Churches people do repaire,

And offer sacrifice of praise and praire,

With bells and bonfires, euery towne addressing,

And to our gracious King their loues expressing,

On that day, when in euery nooke and angle,

Fag gots and bauins smoak'd, and bells did iangle:

Onely at Graues-end, (why I cannot tell,)

There was no sparke of fire, or sound of bell,

Their steeple, (like an instrument vnstrung,)

Seem'd (as I wish all scolds) without a tong,

Their bonfires colder then the greatest frost,

Or chiller then their charities (almost)

Which I perceiuing, sayd I much did muse,

That Graues-end did forget the thankfull vse,

Which all the townes in England did obserue;

And cause I did the King of Brittaine serue,

I and my fellow, for our Maisters sake,

Would (neere the waters side) a bonfire make;

With that a Scotch man, Tompson by his name,

Bestowed foure faggots to increase the flame,

At which (to kindle all) a Graues-end Baker,

[Page]Bestowed his bauine, and was our partaker:

We 18 foote from any house retir'd,

Where we a iury of good faggots fir'd;

But ere the flame, or scarce the smoake began,

There came the fearefull shaddow of a man,

The Ghost or Image of a Constable,

Whose frantick actions (downeright dunce-stable,)

Arm'd out of France and Spaine, with Bacchus bounty:

(Of which ther's plenty in the Kentish county,)

His adle coxcomb with tobaco puff'd`

His guts with ale full bumbasted and stuff'd,

And though halfe blind, yet in a looking glasse,

He could perceiue the figure of an asse;

And as his slauering chapps non-sense did stutter,

His breath (like to a iakes) a sent did vtter,

His leggs indenting scarcely could beare vp,

His drunken trunk (o're charg'd with many a cup.)

This riff raff rubbish, that could scarcely stand,

(Hauing a staffe of office in his hand,)

Came to vs as our fire began to smother,

Throwing some faggots one way, some another,

And in the Kings name did first breake the peace,

Commanding that our bonfire should succease.

The Sotchman angry at this rudnes done,

The scattered faggots, he againe layd on:

Which made the demy Constable go to him,

And punch him on the brest, and outrage do him;

At which a cuffe or twaine were giuen, or lent,

About the eares, (which neither did content.)

[Page]But then to heare how fearefull the asse braid,

With what a hideous noyse he houl'd for aid,

That all the ale in Graues-end, in one houre,

Turn'd either good, bad, strong, small, sweete, or soure:

And then a kennell of incarnate currs,

Hang'd one poore Thomson, like so many burrs;

Haling him vp the dirty streetes, all foule,

(Like diuells pulling a condemned soule.)

The Iaylor (like the grand deu'll) gladly sees,

And with an itching hope of fines and fees,

Thinking the Constable, and his sweete selfe,

Might drinke and quaffe with that ill gotten pelfe;

For why such hounds as these, may if they will,

Vnder the shew of good, turne good to ill;

And with authority the peace first breake,

VVith Lordly domineering or'e the weake,

Committing (oft) they care not whom or why,

So they may exercise themselues thereby,

And with the iaylor share both fee and fine,

Drowning their damned gaine in smoake and wine:

Thus hirelings Constables, and iaylors may,

Abuse the kings leige people night and day,

I say they may, I say not they do so,

And they know best if they do so or no.

They hal'd poore Thomson all along the streete,

Tearing him that the ground scarce touch'd his feete,

Which he perceiuing, did request them cease

Their rudenes, vowing he would go in peace,

He would with quietnesse go where they would,

And prayed them from his throate to loose their hold.

[Page]Some of the townesmen did entreat them there,

That they their barbarous basenes would forbeare,

But all entreaty was like oyle to fire,

Not quenc'd; but more enflam'd the scuruy squire.

Then they afresh began to hale and teare,

(Like mungrell mastifes, on a little Beare,)

Leauing kind Tompsom neither foote or fist,

Nor any limb or member to resist,

Who being thus opprest with ods and might,

Most valiant with his teeth, began to bite,

Some by the fingers, others by the thumbs,

He fang'd within the circuit of his gummes;

Great pitty'twas his chapps did neuer close,

On the halfe Constables, cheekes, eares, or nose;

His seruice had deseru'd reward to haue,

If he had mark'd the peasant for a knaue:

Yet all that labour had away bin throwne,

Through towne and country he's already knowne;

His prisoner, he did beate, and spurn'd and kick'd,

He search'd his pockets (I'le not say he pick'd)

And finding (as he sayd) no mony there,

To heare how then the bellwether did sweare,

And almost tearing Tompson into quarters,

Bound both his hands behind him with his garters,

And after in their rude robustious rage,

Tide both his feete, and cast him in the cage,

There all night he remained in lowsie litter,

Which for the Constable had bin much fitter,

Or for some vagabond (that's sprung from Caine,)

Some rogue or runagate, should there haue laine,

And not a Gentleman that's well descended,

That did no hurt, nor any harme intended:

[Page]But for a bonfire in fit time and place,

To be abus'd and vs'd thus beastty base.

There did I leaue him till the morrow day,

And how he scap'd their hands I cannot say.

This piece of officer, this nasty patch,

(Whose vnderstanding sleepes out many a watch)

Ran like a towne bull, roring vp and downe,

Saying that we had meant to fire the towne;

And thus the diuell his maister did deuise,

To bolster out his late abuse with lies;

So all the streete downe as I past along,

The people all about me in a throng,

Calling me villaine, traytor, rogue, and theife,

Saying that I to fire their towne was cheife.

I bore the wrongs as patient as I might,

Vowing my pen should ease me when I write;

Like to a grumbling cur, that sleepes on hay,

Eates none himselfe, driues other beasts away,

So this base fellow would not once expresse,

Vnto his Prince, a subiects ioyfulnesse,

But cause we did attempt it (as you see)

H'imprison'd Thompson, and thus slandered me.

Thus hauing eas'd my much incensed muse,

I craue the reader this one fault excuse,

For hauing vrg'd his patience all this time,

With such a scuruy subiect, and worse rime;

And thou Graues-endian officer take this,

And thanke thy selfe, for all that written is,

'Tis not against the towne this tale I tell,

(For sure there doth some honest people dwell,)

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[...]he first let [...]ers of his [...]ames are R. L [...]nd his full [...]ame being [...]nnagrama [...]'d is A Tro [...]eler, a trobe [...]er he was to [...]e, and so I [...]eare he hath [...]ene to my Reader.

But against thee, thou fiend in shape of man,

By whom this beastly outrage first began,

Which I could do no lesse, but let thee know,

And pay thee truely what I long did owe,

And now all's euen betwixt thou and I,

Then farrewell and be hang'd, that's twice God buy.

Sunday the 26 of August we set sayle from Graues-end, and with various windes, some large and some scarce, we happily past the seas, and sayled vp the riuer of Maze, by the Brill, and on the wednesday following I ariued at Roterdam in Holland, at which time the worthy regiment of the right honorable Colonell Sir Horace Veare, and the two noble Earles, of Essex, and Oxford departed from thence in Martiall Equipage toward the Pallatinate Country, whose Heroick and Magnanimous endeauors, I beseech the Lord of hosts, and God of battells to direct and blesse.

The same day, I went to the Hage, and from thence to Leyden, where I lodged all night, and the morrow being thurseday the 30 of August, I sayled from Leyden, to Amsterdam, where I saw many things worthy the noting, but because they are so neere and frequent to many of our Nation, I omit to relate them, to auoid teadiousnes: but on the friday at night I got passage from thence towards Hambrogh, in a small hoy, in the which wee were weather-beaten at sea three dayes and nights before wee ariued there.

Saterday the eight of September I left Hambrogh, and being carried day and night in waggons, on the munday night following I came to an ancient towne called [Page] Heldesheim, it standeth in Brunswick land, and yet it belongeth to the Bishop of Collin, where I did obserue in their Doome Kirke, or Cathedrall Church, a crowne of siluer 80 foote in compasse, hanged vp in the body of the Church, in the circuit of which crowne were placed 160 wax candles, the which on festiuall dayes, or at the celebration of some high ceremonies are lighted to lighten their darknesse, or their ignorance, chuse yee whether.

Moreouer there I saw a siluer bell in their steeple, of six hundred and 30 l. weight, and the Leades of their steeple, shining and sparkling with the Sun beames, they did affirme to mee to bee gold, the truth of which I am doubtfull of.

In this towne I stayed foure dayes, and on friday the 14 of September, I went six dutch miles to the strong towne of Brunswick, where by reason of my short stay, which was but two houres, I obserued nothing worthy of memory, but their triple walls, and double ditches, their artillery and fortifications, which they thinke to be impregnable; besides, there I saw an old house of the Duke of Brunswicke, with the statue of a golden lyon, of a great bignesse, standing aloft vpon a piller, with the broken walls, and houses, which the Dukes Cannon hath left there six yeares since, as tokens and badges of his fury, and their rebellion.

From thence on the morrow I went one dutch mile further, to an ancient towne called Wolfunbuttle, where the Duke of Brunswick keepes his Court, in the which I and my fellow could get no further admittance, then ouer a bridge into his outtermost, or base court; for his souldiers, seeing vs with swords and pistolls, were fearefull, [Page] belike, that wee would haue taken the fortresse from them, and therefore though wee were but two Englishmen, yet they durst not let vs enter; which made men call to remembrance the frequent, and dayly Egresse and Regresse, that all people and nations haue to his Maiesty royal Court of great Brittaine, where none that are of any good fashion or aspect are debar'd entrance: when those inferiour Princes houses are garded with hungry Halberdiers, and reuerend rufty bil-men, with a brace or two of hot shots, so that their pallaces are more like prisons, then the free & noble courts of cōmanding potentates.

After two dayes entertainment at Wolfunbuttle, with an English Merchant residing there, of good fame and credit, named Maister Thomas Sackuille, I wish my brother, my fellow Tilbery, and another man in my company departed from thence on foote, onward on our iourny towards Bohemia, in which trauell, what occurrences hapned, and what things of note I saw, were as followeth.

Passing with many weary steps, through the townes of Rosondink, Remling, Soolem, Hessen Darsam, and Haluerstade, (which is all in Brunswick land,) But this towne of Haluerstade belongs to a Bishop so stiled, who is Duke Christian brother to the now Duke of Brunswick, a long dutch mile (or almost six English) is a small towne or a Bleck called Groning belonging to the Duke, in the which place I obserued two things worthy of remembrance.

First a most stately Pallace built with a beautiful Chappell, so adorned with the images and formes of Angells, and Cherubins, with such exquisitenes of arts best industry of caruing, grauing, guilding, painting, glasing, and [Page] pauing, with such superexcellent workmanship of organes, pulpit and font, that for curiosity and admirable rarenesse, all the buildings, and fabricks that euer I beheld, must giue it preheminence. I confesse that Henry the seuenths Chappell at Westminster, Kings Colledge Chappell in Cambridge, and Christs Church in Canterbury, are beyond it in height and workmanship of stone: for indeed this Chappell is most of wood gipps, and plaster of Parris; but it is so guilded as if it had bin made in the golden age, when gold was esteemed as drosse, so that a man had need to weare a vaile ouer his dazeling eyes, or else he can hardly looke vpon it.

The caruing and painting seeme to outgo the arts of Pigmalion, Apelles, or Praxiteles; the pauing of chequered blacke and white marble, and the windowes glassed with Christall: but all this great cost and shew is very little to the honor of God, or the propagation of the Ghospel, the edification of the ignorant. For in this Chappell of ease, there is no Seruice. If the painted pulpit could preach, the dumbe images might (perhaps) haue a sermon now and then; for scarce at any time there comes any body into the Chappell, but a fellow that shewes the beauty of it for two pence or three pence a piece.

In the same house, in a place or celler built of purpose, is a great tonne or vessell of wood, that was 7 yeares in making, and hath vsed to be filled with Rhenish wine: it is sayd to bee twice as bigge as the vessell at Heidelberg, and the hoopes of it are twelue inches thick, and the staues or bordes of it being as much: I went vp to the top of it, with a ladder of 18 stepps, hee that keepes it saith it will hold 160 tonnes. My fellow Tilbery did creepe in at [Page] the tap hole; it is in length 32 foote, and in breadth acrosse 19, and verily I thinke that bable cost more mony the making, then would haue built a good ship, or founded an almes house for 6 poore people.

This is a Tub of Tubs, Tub of Tubs Hall,

Who n'ere had fellow yet, nor euer shall;

O had Diogenes but had this a Ton,

He would had thought that he more roome had won,

Then Alexanders conquests, or the bounds

Of the vast Occean, and the solid grounds.

Or had Cornelius but this tub, to drench

His clients that had practis'd too much French,

A thousand hogsheads then would haunt his firkin,

And Mistris Minks recouer her lost mirkin.

This mighty cask great Bacchus vs'd too stride,

When he to drunkards hall did often ride;

And in this barrell he did keepe his court,

Bathing himselfe in Rhenish for disport.

But now these 8 yeares it hath dry bin kept;

In it the wine-god hath nor pist or wept;

That now the Cappell, and the cask combine,

One hath no preaching, t'other hath no wine.

And now the vse they put it to is this,

'Tis shew'd for mony, as the Chappell is.

From Groning wee trauelled to a towne called Ashers Leauen, to Ashleauen, to Kinderne, to Hall, and so to Leipzig, which is one of the chiefest townes in Saxony, being famous for a yearely Mart that is yearely held there, whereto Merchants and other people from the most part [Page] of Christendom haue annual concourse: in this towne we stayd two dayes, and taking our leaue then of some English Merchants, who vsed vs kindly, we there would haue hired a coach or waggon to Prague; but all the Saxon coach-men and carters were afraid to looke vpon any part of Bohemia, because their Duke is a profest enemy in armes against the King of Beame, so that we were forced to hire a fellow with a wheelebarrow two dayes to carry our cloakes, swords, guns, pistolls, and other apparell and luggage which were our necessaries, to a towne called Boorne, to Froburge, and so to another towne called Penigh, where wee cashierd our one-wheel'd coach, and hired a cart with two, which carried both vs and our baggage to Chemnizt another towne in Saxony, from whence to a place called Shop, wee were faine to bee our owne sumpter horses, walking on foote to the last towne in Saxony, called Marienberg. From thence passing vp and downe inaccessable mountaines, we came to a wood, which parts Bohemia from Saxony on the west, which wood is called by the people of those parts the Beamer Wolts or Wolt, and is in breadth to English miles, and in length further then I know how to describe truely: but this much of it I dare affirme, that it is a naturall impregnable wall to the kingdome of Bohem, which kingdome is all incompast round with woods and mountaines, so that there is no passage on that side of it, for any army to enter into it with munition and artillery, all the wayes being vneuen, and the mountaine tops all boggs, mosses, and quagmires, that great ordnance or any heauy cariage either of horse, cart or waggon, will sinke and be lost. Besides, there are numbers past numbring of Firre trees, many [Page] standing, and such store fallen of themselues, that any passage might easily be stopped by laying them crosse the way. And of all my iourny, the trauell through that dismall wood was the most heauy vnto mee, for the trees grew so thicke, and so high, that the sunne was obscured, and the day seemed night; in some places, the way paued with swimming trees 2 miles together on the tops of hills, which now and then I slipping besides, sunke to the middle in a quagmire.

When wee had thus footed it, and trauelled past the hills and woods, (being at the least 4 houres toyle) and that wee might looke downe the mountaines into the fruitfull land of Bohem, neuer did sight more reioyce vs, the lower hills being all full of Vineyards, and the vallies, corne and pasture; not an English mile distance, but a village euery way; and twenty, thirty, or forty reekes or stacks of corne which their barnes cannot hold, in the space of euery houres iourny: in a word, euery thing that belonged to the vse and commodity of man was and is there, and al the delightfull obiects to satisfie euery sence is there abundantly, so that nature seemed to make that Country her storehouse or granary, for there is nothing wanting except mens gratitude to God for such blessings.

The first night we lodged there at a pretty towne called Comoda, which towne by negligence and occasion of fire had fifty houses burnt two dayes before our comming thither, it being eleuen dutch miles from Prague. There we hired a wagon 7 dutch miles to a towne called Slowne, from whence we walked on foote a long 16 English miles to Prague, which long looked for the Citty wee could not see vntill we came within an houres trauell of [Page] it: within halfe a dutch mile is a fearefull place, being frequented with inhumaine and barbarous murderers, that assault trauellers, first shooting and murdring them, and after searching their pockets, where if they haue mony or not, all is one, it is but so many slaine: for these villaines haue a wood, and a deepe valley to shelter themselues in, that they are hardly taken afterwards; but if they chance at any time to be but apprehended, they are racked and tortured to make them confesse, and afterwards their executions are very terrible. But (I thanke God) wee past that place, and many other as dangerous as that, where some were robbed and murdered (as report told vs) both before vs, behind vs, and on each side: and we saw in our iourny aboue seauen score gallowses and wheeles, where thieues were hanged some fresh, and some halfe rotten, and the carkases of murtherers, broken limb after limb on the wheeles; and yet it was our happines onely to see the dead villaines, and escape the liuing.

I came into Prague on thurseday the seauenth of September, whither if I had come but the friday before, I had seene a most fearefull execution of two notorious offenders; the manner how, with their faults, as it was truely related to me by English Gentlemen that saw it, I thinke it not much impertinent to relate.

The one of them being taken, apprehended and racked, for ripping vp aliue a woman with child, and for taking the infant out of her body, did sowe a liuing puppy into her belly; all which hee confessed hee did to make properties for wichcraft: and beeing further tortured, hee confessed when and where hee had committed 35. murthers more: the other in respect of him was but a petty [Page] offender, for he in all his life time had murthered but 14. For the which execrable facts, their deserued executions were as followeth: First, they were brought out of the Iayle naked from the girdle vpward; and so being bound fast on high in a cart, that the spectators might see them; then the Hangman hauing a panne of coales neere him, with red hot pincers nip'd off the nipple of one brest; then he tooke a knife and giues him a slash or cut downe the backe on one side, from the shoulder to the waste; and presently gaue him such another slash, three inches from the first; then on the top he cut the slashes into one;, and presently taking pincers, tooke hold of the crosse cut, and tore him downe like a Girse below the middle, letting it hang downe behind him like a belt: after which he tooke his burning pincers, and pluck'd off the tops of his fingers of one hand: then passing to another place of the Towne, his other nipple was plucked off, the other side of his back so cut and mangled, (which they call by the name of rimming, (if it had beene riming, I would neuer haue written but in prose) his other fingers nip'd off; then passing further, all his toes were nip'd off with the burning pincers: after which he was enforced to come out of the cart, and goe on foote vp a steepe hill to the Gallowes, where he was broken with a wheele, aliue, one bone after another, beginning at his legs and ending with his neck, and last of all quartered and layd on the wheele, on a high post, till Crowes, Rauens, or consuming time consume him.

This was the manner of both their executions, but I speake but of the greatest murtherer particularly, because it is reported, that all these torments neuer made him [Page] once to change countenance, or to make any signe or action of griefe, to call to God for mercy, or to entreate the people to pray for him; but as if he had beene a senselesse stocke or stone, he did most scornefully, and as it were in disdaine abide it: whilst the other villaine did crye, rore, and make lamentation, calling vpon God often; the difference was not much in their liues, and manner of their deaths, but I am perswaded the odds was great in their dying.

The City of Prague is almost circular or round, being diuided in the middle by the riuer of Moldoue, ouer which is a faire stone Bridge, of 600. paces ouer, and at each end a strong gate of stone: there is said to be in it of Churches and Chappels, 150. for there are great numbers of Catholiques, who haue many Chappels dedicated to sundry Saints, and I was there at foure seueral sorts of diuine exercises; viz. at good sermons with the Protestants, at Masse with the Papists, at a Lutherans preaching, and at the Iewes Synagog; three of which I saw and heard for curiosity, and the other for edification.

The Iewes in Prague are in such great numbers, that they are thought to be of men, women and children, betwixt 50. or 60000. who doe all liue by brocage and vsury vpon the Christians, and are very rich in money and Iewels, so that a man may see tenne or twelue togither of them, that are accounted worth 20. 30. or 40000. l. apiece; and yet the slaues goe so miserably attired, that 15. of them are not worth the hanging for their whole wardrobes.

The Castle where the King and Queene doe keepe their Court, is magnificent and sumptuous in building, [Page] strongly situated and fortified by nature and art, being founded on a high hill, so that at pleasure it keepes the towne in command, and it is much more spacious in roomes for receipt in gardens and orchards, then the Towre of London. I was in it dayly the space of 20 dayes, and saw it royally graced with the presence of a gracious King & Queen, who were honorably attēded by a gallant courtly traine of Lords and Ladies, and Gentles, of the high Dutch and Bohemians, and where was free & bountiful entertainment to strangers in abundance: I must euer humbly and thankfully acknowledge the Queenes Maiesties goodnesse towards mee, whose vndeserued fauours were helpful vnto me both there, and in my tedious iorny home-ward. Moreouer there I saw (and had in mine armes) the King and Queenes yongest son, Prince Robert, who was borne there on the 16 of December last: a goodly child as euer I saw of that age, whom with the rest I pray God to blesse; to his glory and his Parents ioy and comfort.

There (for a token) I did thinke it meete,

To take the shoes from off this Prince his feete:

I doe not say I stole, but I did take,

And whilst I liue I'le keepe them for his sake:

Long may his Grace liue to be stylde a man,

And then I'le steale his bootes too, if I can.

The shoes were vpright shoes, and so was he

That wore them, from all harme vpright and free:

He vsde them for their vse, and not for pride,

He neuer wrong'd them, or ne're trod a side.

Lambskin they were, as white as Innocence,

(True patternes for the footsteps of a Prince,)

[Page]And time will come (as I do hope in God)

He that in childhood with these shooes was shod,

Shall with his manly feete once trample downe,

All Antichristian foes to his renowne.

The citty of Prague, hath in it (by reason of the wars) thrice the number of it's owne inhabitants, and yet for all that, victuals is in such great plenty, that 6 men cannot eate three halfe penny worth of bread, and I did buy in the market a fat goose well roast for the vallew of nine pence English, and I and my brother haue dined there at a Cookes with good roasted meate, bread and beere, so that we haue bin satisfied and left, for the vallew of fiue pence: a good turky there may bee bought for two shillings, and for fresh fish I neuer saw such store, for in one market day I haue knowne in Prague 2000 carps, besides other fishes, which carps in London are fiue shillings a piece, and there they were for eight pence, or ten pence at the most, so that one of their fresh fish markets heere were worth at the least 5 or 600 pounds, and as for all other manner of wild foule, they are there in satiety, besides their fruites are in such abundance that I boght a basket of grapes of the quantity of halfe a pecke for a penny & farthing, & a hat-ful of faire peaches for as much, pickled cowcumbers I haue bought a pecke for three pence, and muskmellons, there hath bin cast fiue or six carts load of them in one day to their hoggs.

As concerning the dyet that is in the Kings armies, I could neuer yet heare any man complaine of want, but that it is more plentifull then in the citty, the greatest scarcity hath bin to some sicke souldiers, who being not able to march with the leaguers (by reason of their weakenes) they haue bin left amongst the Boores, or husbandmen [Page] in the next villages, where their languages not vnderstood, their succour hath bin but small, but for all this in the campe hath euer bin a continuall cheapnes of all things, the King most duely paying his souldiers at the end of euery month, hauing in his great leguer, vnder the conduct of the Princes of Hollock and Anhalt, of foote and horse 43000, and at the least of carts and waggons to carry prouision, and baggage for the army, to the number of 18000. In his little leaguer vnder the leading of Count Mansfelt there are of foote and horse 7000, besides carrs and waggons for carriage, and yet for these great numbers of men and beastes, there is food in all abundance.

In the campe with Graue Mansfelt is the Brittane regiment vnder their Colonel Sir Andrew Gray Knight, and in Prague I met with many worthy Gentlemen and souldiers, which were there sicke, as the worthy Captaine Bushell, Lieutenaut Grimes, Lieuetenant Langworth, Ancient Galbreath, Ancient Vandenbrooke, Maister Whitney, Maister Blundell and others, all which did most courteously entertaine me, vnto whom I must euer rest thankful, and they do affirme that now it hath pleased God to grant their souldiers recouery, that they do hope euery Brittaine souldier doth retaine more good spirit, then 3 enemies of what nation soeuer.

Thus hauing shewed part of the best things in Bohemia, the Court and Citty of Prague, it shall not be amisse if I relate a little merily, of some things there tolerable, some intollerable, some naught and some worse then naught; for as euery rose hath a prickle, and euery Bee a sting, so no earthly kingdome hath such persection of goodnesse, but it may be iustly taxed with imperfections.

[Page]

Prague is a famous, ancient, kingly seate,

In scituation and in state compleate,

Rich in aboundance of the earths best treasure,

Proud and high minded, beyond bounds or measure,

In Architecture stately; in Atire,

Bezonians and Pleibeians do aspire,

To be apparell'd with the stately port

Of worship, honor, or the royall court;

There coaches, and carroches are so rife,

They do attend on euery trades mans wife,

Whose husbands are but in a meane regard,

And get their liuing by the ell or yard,

How euer their estates may be defended,

Their wiues like demy ladies are attended:

I there a Chimney sweepers wife haue seene,

Habillimented like the diamond Queene,

Most gaudy garish, as a fine maid marrian,

With breath as sweete as any suger carrion,

With sattin cloake, lin'd through with budg, or sable,

Or cunny furre (or what her purse is able)

With veluet hood, with tiffanies, and purles,

Rebatoes frizlings, and with powdred curles,

And (lest her hue or sent should be attainted,

She's antidoted, well persum'd and painted,

She's fur'd, she's fring'd, she's lac'd and at her wast,

She's with a massie chaine of siluer brac'd,

She's yellow starch'd, she's ruff'd, and cuff'd, and muff'd,

She's ring'd, she's braceleted, she's richly tuff'd,

Her petticoale, good silke as can be bought,

Her smocke, about the taile lac'd round and wrought,

Her gadding legges are finely spanish booted,

The whilst her husband, like a slaue all sooted,

[Page]Lookes like a courtier to infernall Pluto,

And knowes himselfe to be a base cornuto.

Then since a man that liues by chimny sweepe,

His wife so gaudy richly clad doth keepe,

Thinke then but how a Merchants wife may go,

Or how a burgamaisters wife doth show;

There (by a kind of top sie turuy vse,)

The women weare the bootes, the men the shooes,

I know not if't be profit, or else pride,

But sure th'are oft'ner riden then they ride:

These females seeme to be most valiant there,

Their painting shewes they do no colours feare,

Most art-like plastring natures imperfections,

With sublimated, white and red complexions;

So much for pride I haue obserued there,

Theire other faults are almost euery where.

Thus hauing stayd in Prague almost 3. weekes, I returned from thence homeward, on tuesday, the 26. of September, hauing in my company three Gentlemen, a widdow (and foure small children) whose husband and being an English man, and the Kings Brewer for Beere, deceased, and was buried there in Prague whilst I was there: the good desolate woman hauing receiued reward after seuen yeares seruice there and at Heidelberg, being desirous to retire to her countrey (England) came with vs, with my brother, and my fellow Tilbery. We tooke two Coaches at the Castle of Prague, & in a day and halfe, we were carried seuen Duch miles, to a Towne in Bohemia (standing on the riuer of Elue) called Leutmeritz, at which Towne we all layd our moneyes together, and bought a boate of 48. foote in length, and not 3. foote in bredth, and because we did not know the riuer, wee hired a Bohemian waterman to guide vs 15. dutch miles, to the Towne of [Page] Dreason in Saxony. But 4. miles short of that Town, which was the first Towne in the Saxon Countrey, called Pirne, where we were stayed 5. houres without the gates, til such time as the Burgamaster wold be pleased to examin vs: in the meane space our waterman (not daring to abide the terrible triall of examination, because the Duke of Saxon was in Armes against the King of Beame) hee ran away, and left vs to bring the boate downe the riuer, 600. English miles our selues to Hamburgh.

But now to close vp all, I will relate what rare dyet, excellent cookery, and sweete lodging we had in ouriourney in Germany: first for our comfort, after very hard getting of houseroome, our lodgings was euery night in straw, where lying together well littered, we honestly alwayes left our sheetes behind vs: then at our suppers at a table square, and so broad, that two men can hardly shake hands ouer it, we being some twelue about it. Our first dish being a raw cabbadge, of the quantity of halfe a pecke, cut and chopped small, with the fat of resty bacon powred vpon it in stead of oyle; which dish must be emptied before we could get any more: Our second dish perhaps, a peck of boylde Apples and honey, the Apples being boyled skins, stalkes, cores, and all: Thirdly, 100. Gudgeons, newly taken perhaps, yet as salt as if they had beene three yeares pickled, or twice at the East Indies, boyled with scales, guts an all, and buried in Ginger like sawdust: a fresh pike as salt as brine, boyled in flat milke, with a pound of Garlick. This was the manner of the most part of our dyet; and if we did aske them why they did salt their meate so vnreasonably, their answere was, that their beer could not be consumed, except their meat were salted extraordinarily.

[Page]If a man doe finde fault or seeme distasted with their beastly dyet, he is in danger to be thrust out of dores, and take vp his lodging in the streetes: and in the conclusion when dinner or supper is ended, then comes mine Host, or his leather lip'd Froe, with a sawcy reckoning of what they please, which sounds in our eares like a harsh Epilogue, after a bad playe; for what they say wee must pay, their words are irreuocable (like the ancient Kings of Persia) and we must not question or aske how and how it can bee so much, but pay them their demand without grumbling to halfe a farthing.

Which made me call to minde sixe seuerall principals, that doe belong to a traueller, as patience, silence, warinesse, watchfulnesse, a good stomacke, and a purse wel moneyed; for if he want any one of these, (perhaps) the other fiue will neuer bring him to his iournies end. A mans patience must be such, that (though he be a Barron) he must beare all abuses, either in words, lodging, dyet, or almost any thing, though offered from or by a sowter, a tinker, or a Merchant of tripes & turneps; his silence must be, that though he heare & vnderstand himselfe wronged, yet he must be as dumbe as a Gudgeon or a Whiting mop: and though his mouth be shut, his warinesse must be such, that his eares must be euer open, to listen and ouer-heare all dangers that may bee complotted against him: his watchfulnesse must be so, that he must seldome sleep with both his eyes at once, lest his throat be cut before he wake againe. But for his stomacke, hee must eate grasse with a horse, aud draffe with the hogges, for hee that cannot eate pickl'd herring broth, and dirty puddings, shall many times fast by authority, and goe to bed withont his supper: and last of all, he must haue Fortunatus [Page] or a Prince his purse, that must bee (like a drunkards dagger) euer drawne, to pay bountifully for such wash and graines, as his valiant stomack hrth ouercome, conquered and deuoured: but of this a little in verse:

Sixe things vnto a Traueller belongs,

An Asses backe, t'abide and beare all wrongs:

A fishes tougue (mute) grudging speech forbearing,

A Harts quick eare, all dangers, ouerhearing.

A dogs eyes, that must wake as they doe sleepe,

And by such watch his corpes from perill keepe.

A swines sweete homely taste, that must digest

Al Fish, Flesh, Rootes, Fowle, foule and beastly drest;

And last, he must haue euer at his call

A purse well lynde with coyne to pay for all.

With this kinde of lodging and dyet, and with tedious labour sometimes night and day, wee came in 14. dayes 607. miles from Prague in Bohemia, to Hambrogh on the hither skirts of Germany, the riuer hauing aboue 1000. shelues and sands, and 800. Ilands, so that a man cannot see on which side of them to goe, there being 240. mills chained in boates on the first streame, and a number numberlesse of Oakes and other trees sunke with the violence of the Riuer, and sometimes fogs and mists that we could not see a boates length from vs: besides great Rocks, and stones that were fallen into the water, that any or many of these impediments do often ouerthrow boats, and drowne passengers; yet I, and my fellow Tilbery (wee being both his Maiesties watermen) did by Gods assistance safely escape them all, and brought our selues, as is afore-sayd, to Hamborogh, where being winde bound 10. dayes, I thanke the English Merchants, I was well welcomed, vntill at last it pleased God, the winde came faire, I [Page] tooke ship, and after 9. dayes and nights of various weather (I giue prayse to the Almighty) I safely came home to my house in London, on saterday the 28. of September. 1620.

You that haue bought this, grieue not at the cost,

Ther's something worth your noting, al's not lost,

First halfe a Constable is well bumbasted,

If there were nothing else, your coynes not wasted,

Then I relate of hills, and dales, and downes,

Of Churches, Chappels, Pallaces and Townes,

And then to make amends (although but small)

I tell a tale of a great Tub withall,

With many a gallowse, Iibbit, and a wheele,

Where murdrers bones are broke, from head to heele;

How rich Bohemia is in wealth and food,

Of all things which for man or beast is good.

How in the Court at Prague (a princely place)

A gracious Queene vouchsafed me to grace,

How on the sixteenth day of August last,

King Frederick to his royall army past,

How fifty thousand were in armes araid,

Of the Kings force, be side th' Hungarian ayde,

And how Bohemia strongly can oppose,

And cuffe and curry all their daring foes.

Then though no newes of state, may heere be had,

I know heer's something will make good men glad,

No bringer of strange tales I meane to be,

Nor ile beleeue none that are told to me.

FINIS.

[Page]

§

§

[Page]

[Page]

Taylor his Trauels: From the Citty of London in England, to the Citty of Prague in Bohemia.

The manner of his abode there three weekes, his obseruations there, and his returne from thence:

How he past 600 miles downe the riuer of Elue, through Bohemia, Saxony, Anhalt, the Bishoprick of Madeberge, Brandenberge, Hamburgh, and so to England.

With many relations worthy of note.

By Iohn Taylor.

LONDON Printed by Nicholas Okes, for Henry Gosson, and are to bee sold by Edward Wright. 1620.

§

§

[Page]

The Right Hon.ble Algernon Capell, Earl of Essex, Viscount Maldon, & Baron Capell of Hadham. 1701

§

§

[Page]

Reader take this in your way.

A Pamphlet (Reader,) from the presse is hurld,

That hath not many fellowes in the world:

The maner's cōmon, though the matter's shallow,

And 'tis all true, which makes it want a fellow.

And because I would not haue you either guld of your mony, or deceiued in expectation, I pray you take notice of my plaine dealing; for I haue not giuen my booke aswelling bumbasted title, of a promising inside of newes; therefore if you looke for any such matter from hence, take this warning, hold fast your mony, and lay the booke downe: yet if you do buy it (I dare presume) you shall find somewhat in it worth part of your mony; the troth is that I did chiefely write it, because I am of much acquaintance, and cannot passe the streets, but I am continually stayed by one or other, to know what newes, so that sometimes I am foure houres before I can go the length of too paire of butts, where such non-sence or sencelesse [Page] questions are propounded to me, that calles many seeming wise mens wisedoms in question, drawing aside the curtaines of their vnderstandiug, and laying their ignorance wide open. First Iohn Easie takes me, and holds mee fast by the fist halfe an houre, and will needes torture some newes out of me from Spinola, whom I was neuer neere by 500 miles; for hee is in the Pallatinate country, and I was in Bohemia. I am no sooner eased of him, but Gregory Gandergoose, an Alderman of Gotham catches me by the goll, demaunding if Bohemia bee a great towne, and whether there be any meare in it, and whether the last fleet of shipps be ariued there: his mouth being stop'd, a third examines mee boldly, what newes from Vienna, where the Emperours army is, what the Duke of Bauaria doth, what is become of Count Buquoy, how fares all the Englishmen; Where lies the King of Bohemiaes forces, what Bethlem Gabor doth, what tydings of Dampeier, and such a tempest of inquisition, that it almost shakes my patience in pieces. To ease my selfe of all which, I was inforced to set pen to paper, & let this poore pamphlet (my harrald or nuntius) trauell & talke, [Page] whilst I take my ease with silence. Thus much I dare affirme, that whosoeuer hee or they bee, that do scatter any scandalous speeches against the plenty in Bohemia of all manner of needfull things for the sustenance of man and beasts, (of the which there is more aboundance then euer I saw in any place else) or whatsoeuer they bee that report any ill successe on the Kings party, this little booke, and I the Author doth proclaime and proue them false lyers, and they are to be suspected, for coyning such falshoods, as no well-willers to the Bohemian prosperity. One thing I must entreate the Readers patience in reading one hundred lines; wherein, I haue kept a filthy stirre about a beastly fellow, who was (at my going from England, a piece of a Graues-end Constable) at which time hee did mee such wrong, as might haue drawne my life in question; for hee falsly sayd that I would haue fired their Towne. I did promise him a ierke or two of my penne at my returne; which now I haue performed, (not out of any mallice, but because I would bee as good as my word with him.) Thus crauing you to reade if you [Page] like, and like as you list. I leaue you a booke much like a pratling Gossip, full of many words to small purpose.

Yours, as you are mine.

Iohn Taylor

.

Information about this book

Title statement

Taylor his trauels: from the citty of London in England, to the citty of Prague in Bohemia The manner of his abode there three weekes, his obseruations there, and his returne from thence: how he past 600 miles downe the riuer of Elue, through Bohemia, Saxony, Anhalt, the bishoprick of Madeberge, Brandenberge, Hamburgh, and so to England. With many relations worthy of note. By Iohn Taylor.

Taylor, John, 1580-1653.

Edition statement

1620

Publication

Publisher

Text Creation Partnership,

Place of publication

Ann Arbor, MI ; Oxford (UK) :

Date

2003-01 (EEBO-TCP Phase 1).

ID [DLPS]

A13508

ID [STC]

STC 23802

ID [STC]

ESTC S118294

ID [EEBO-CITATION]

99853501

ID [PROQUEST]

99853501

ID [VID]

18885

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(EEBO-TCP ; phase 1, no. A13508)

Transcribed from: (Early English Books Online ; image set 18885)

Images scanned from microfilm: (Early English books, 1475-1640 ; 1036:25)

Source

— Taylor his trauels: from the citty of London in England, to the citty of Prague in Bohemia The manner of his abode there three weekes, his obseruations there, and his returne from thence: how he past 600 miles downe the riuer of Elue, through Bohemia, Saxony, Anhalt, the bishoprick of Madeberge, Brandenberge, Hamburgh, and so to England. With many relations worthy of note. By Iohn Taylor., Taylor, John, 1580-1653..

Extent

[32] p.

Printed by Nicholas Okes, for Henry Gosson, and are to bee sold by Edward Wright,. London :: 1620.. (Partly in verse.) (Signatures: A-D⁴.) (Running title reads: Taylors trauells to Bohemia.) (Reproduction of the original in the Henry E. Huntington Library and Art Gallery.)

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