To proceede then to this knowledg of Cookery, you ſhal vnderſtand, that the firſt ſteppe thereunto is, to haue Knowledge of all ſorts of hearbes belonging vnto the Kitchin, whether they be for the Pot, for Sallets, for Sauces, for Seruings, or for any other Seaſoning, or adorning: which skill of Knowledge of the Hearbes, ſhee muſt get by her owne true labour and experience, and not by my relation, would be much too tedious, & for the vſe of them, he ſhall ſee it in the compoſition of diſhes & meates here after following She ſhal alſo know the time of the yeere, Moneth and Moone, in which all Hearbs are to be ſowne; and when they are in their beſt flouriſhing, that gathering all Hearbs in their height of goodneſſe, ſhee may haue the prime vſe of the ſame. And becauſe I will inable, and not burden her memory, I will here giue her a ſhort Epitomie of all that knowledge.

Firſt then, let our Engliſh Houſ-wife know, that ſhe may at al times of the Moneth and Moone, generally ſow Aſparagus, Colworts, Spinage, Lettice, Parſnips, Radiſh, and Chiues.

In February, in the new of the Moone, ſhe may ſow Spyke, Garlicke, Borage, Bugloſe, Cheruyle, Coriander, Gourds, Creſſes, Mario • am, Falma Chriſti, Flower gentle, white Poppy, Purſlan, Radiſh, Rocket, Roſemary, Sorrell, Double Marigolds and Time. The Moone full ſhee may ſow Anniſſeeds musked, Violets, Bleets, Skirrits, White Succory, Fennell, and Parſly. The Moone old, ſow Holy Thyſtell, Cole Cabadge, white Cole, greene Cole, Cucumbers, Harts-Horne, Diers Graine, Cabadge, Lettice, Mellons, Onions, Parſnips, Larkes Heele, Burnat and Leekes.

In March the Moone new, ſow Garicke, Borrage, Bugloſſe, Cheruile, Coriander, Gourds, Marioram, white Poppy, Purſlan, Radiſh, Sorrel, Double Marigolds, Time, violets. At the full Moone; Aniſeeds, Bleets, Skirrets, Succory, Fennell, Apples of Loue, and Marueilous Apples. At the wane; artichocks, Baſſil, Bleſſed Thiſtle, Cole cabadg, white cole, Greene cole, citrons, cucumbers, Harts-Horne, Samphire, Spinage, Gilliflowers, Iſop, cabadge, Lettice, Mellons, Mugrets, Onions, Flower Gentil, Burnet, Leeks, and Sauory. In May, the Moone old, ſow bleſſed Thiſtle. In Iune, the Moone new, ſow gourds and radiſhes. The Moone old, ſow cucumbers, mellons, parſnips. In Iuly, the Moone at ful, ſow white Succory; and the Moone old, ſow cabadge, lettice. Laſtly, in Auguſt, the Moone at the ful, ſow white Succory.

Alſo ſhe muſt know, that Hearbs growing of Seeds, may be tranſplanted at al times, except cheruile, Arage, Spinage, and Pſeley, which are not good being once tranſplanted, obſeruing euer to tranſplant in moyſte and rainy weather.

Alſo ſhe muſt know, that the choice of ſeeds are twofold, of which ſome grow beſt, being n • w, as cucumbers and leekes, and ſome being old as coriander, parſley, ſauory, beets, origan, creſſes, ſpinage and poppy, you muſt keep cold lettice, artichokes, baſil, holy thiſtle, cabadge, cole, Dyers graine, and mellons, fifteene dayes after they put foorth of the earth.

Alſo Seedes proſper better being ſowne in temperate weather, then in hot, cold, or dry dayes. In the moneth of April, the moone being new, ſow marioram flowers-gentle, time, violets: in the ful of the moone, apples of loue, and maruailous apples: and in the wane, artichokes, holy thiſtle, cabadge, cole, citrons, harts-horne, Samphire, gilliflowers, and parſnips.

Seeds muſt be gathered in faire weather, at the wane of the moone, and kept ſome in Boxes of Wood, ſome in bagges of Leather, and ſome in veſſels of earth, and after to be wel cleanſed and dryed in the Sunne or ſhadow: Otherſome, as Onions, chib • ls, and Leekes, muſt be kept in then huskes. Laſtly, ſhe muſt know, that it is beſt to plant in the laſt quarter of the moone; to gather grafts in the laſt but one, and to graft two dayes after the change, and thus much for her knowledge briefly of Hearbs, and how he ſhall haue them continually for her vſe in the Kitchin.

It reſteth now that I proceede vnto Cookerie it ſelfe, which is the dreſſing and ordering of meate, in good and wholeſome manner, to which, when our Houſ • wife ſhall addreſſe her ſelfe, ſhe ſhall well vnderſtand, that theſe qualities muſt euer accompany it: Firſt, ſhee muſt bee cleanly both in body and garments, ſhee muſt haue a quicke eye, a curious noſe, a perfect taſte, and ready eate (ſhee muſt not be butter-fingred, ſweete-toothed, not faint-hearted;) for, the firſt will let euery thing fall, the ſecond will conſume what it ſhould increaſe, and the laſt will looſe time with too much niceneſſe. Now for the ſubſtance of the Art it ſelfe, I will diuide it into fiue parts, the firſt, Sallats and Fricaſes; the ſecond, boyled Meates and Broaths; the third, Roaſt meates, and Carbonados, the fourth, Bak't meates and Pies; and the fith, B • nqueting and made diſhes, with other conceites and ſecrets.

Firſt then to ſpeake of Sallats, there be ſome ſimple, and ſome compounded; ſome onely to furniſh out the table, and ſome both for vſe and adornation: your ſimple Sallats are Chibols pilled, waſhe cleane, and halfe of the greene tops cut cleane away, ſo ſerued on a Fruit diſh, o • Chines, Sealions, Radiſh-roots, boyled Carrets, Ski •• ets, and Tu • neps, with ſuch like ſerued vp ſimply: alſo, all young Lettice, Cabage-letuce, Po • ſian, and diuers other hearbs which may be ſerued ſimply without any thing, but a little Vinegar, Sallet-Oyle, and Sugar: Onions boyled, and ſtript from their rind, and ſerued vp with Vinegar, oyle & Pepper is a good ſimple Sallat, ſo is Samphire, Beane cods, Sparagus, and Cucumbers, ſerued in likewiſe with Oyle, Vinegar and Pepper, with a world of others, too tedious to nominate.

Your compound Sallats, are firſt the young Buds and Knots of all manner of wholeſome hearbs at their firſt ſpringing; as Red-ſage, Mints, Lettice, Violets, Marigolds, Spinage, and many other mixed together, and then ſerued vp to the table with Vinegar, Sallet Oyle and Sugar.

Your preſerued Sallats are of two kinds, either pickled, as are Cucumbers, Samphire, Purſlan, Broome, and ſuch like, or preſerued with Vinegar; as Violets, Primroſe, Cowſlops, Gillyflowers of all kindes, Broomeflowers, and for the moſt part any wholeſome flower whatſoeuer.

Now for the picking of Sallats, they are only boiled, and then drained from the water, ſpread vpon a table, and good ſtore of Salt throwne ouer them, then when they are thorow cold, make a Pickle with Water, Salt, and a little Vinegar, and with the ſame pot them vp in cloſe earthen pots, and ſerue them forth as occaſion ſhall ſerue.

☜Now for preſeruing Sallats, you ſhall take any of the Flowers before-ſayd after they haue beene pickt cleane from their ſtalkes, and the white ends (of them which haue any) cleane cut • way, and waſht and dryed, and taking a g • aſſe-pot like a Gally-pot, or for want thereof a Gally-pot it ſelfe; and firſt ſtrew a little Sugar in the bottome, then lay a layer of the Flowers, then couer that layer ouer with Sugar, then lay another layer of the Flowers, and another of Sugar; and thus do one aboue another till the pot be filled, euer and anon preſſing them hard downe with your hand: this done, you ſhall take of the beſt and • arpeſt Vinegar you can get (& if the vinegar • e diſtilled vinegar, the Flowers will keepe their colours the better) and with it fill vp your pot till the Vinegar ſwim aloft, and no more can be receiued; then ſtop vp the pot cloſe, & ſet them in a dry temperate place, and vſe them at pleaſure, for they will laſt all the yeere.

Now for the compounding of Sallats of theſe pickled and preſerued thinges, though they may be ſerued vp ſimply of themſelues, and are both good and daintie; yet for better curioſity, and the finer adorning of the table, you ſhall thus vſe them: Firſt, if you would ſet forth any red Flower that you know or haue ſeene, you ſhall take your pots of preſerued Gilliflowers, and ſuting the colours anſwerable to the Flower you ſhall proportion it forth, and lay the ſhape of the Flower in a Fruit-diſh; then with your Purſl • n leaues make the greene Coſſin of the Flower, and with the Purſlan ſtalkes, make the ſtalke of the Flower, and the diuiſions of the leaues and branches; then with the thinne ſlices of Cucumbers make their leaues in true proportions, • agged or otherwiſe: and thus you may ſet forth ſome full blowne, ſome halfe blowne, and ſome in the bud, which will be pretty and curious And if you will ſet forth yellow flowers, take the pots of Primroſes and Cowſlops, if blew flowers, then the pots of Violets, or Bagloſſe Flowers, and theſe Sallats are both for ſhew and vſe; for they are more excellent for taſte then for to looke on.

To haue the beſt Collops and Egges, you ſhall take the whiteſt and youngeſt Bacon, and cutting away the ſward, cut the Collops into thin ſlices, lay them in a diſh, and put hot water vnto them, and ſo let them ſtand an houre or two, for that will take away the extreame ſaltneſſe▪ then draine away the water cleane, and put them into a drie pewter diſh, and lay them one by one, and ſet them before the heate of the fire, ſo as they may toaſte and turne them ſo, 〈1 page duplicate〉 〈1 page duplicate〉 as they may toaſt ſufficiently thorow and thorow: which done, take your Egges and breake them into a diſh, and put a ſpooneful of vinegar vnto them: then ſet on a cleane Skillet with faire water on the fire, and as ſoone as the water boyleth put in the Egges, and let them take a boile or two, then with a ſpoone trie if they bee hard enough, and then take them vp, and trim them, and dry them; and then diſhing vp the Collops, lay the Egges vpon them, and ſo ſerue them vp: and in this ſort you may potch Egges when you pleaſe, for it is the beſt and moſt wholſome.

☞Firſt then for making the beſt Tanſey, you ſhal take a certain number of egges, according to the bigneſſe of your Frying-pan, and breake them into a diſh, abating euer the white of euery third egge; then with a Spoone you ſhal cleanſe away the little white Chickin-knots which ſticke vnto the yolkes; then with a little Creame beate them exceedingly together; then take of greene Wheat blades, Vio • et leaues, Straw-berry leaues, Sp • nage, and Succory, of each a like quantity, and a few Walnut tree buds; choppe and beate all theſe very wel, and then ſtraine out the iuice, and mixing it with a little more Cream • , put it to the egges, and ſtirre all wel together, then put in a few crummes of Bread, fine grated Bread, Cynamon, Nutmegge, and Salt, then put ſome ſweete Butter into the Frying-panne, and ſo ſoone as it is diſſolued or melted, put in the Tanſey, and frie it browne without burning, and with a diſh turne it in the Panne as occaſion ſhal ſerue; then ſerue it vp, hauing ſtrewed good ſtore of Suger vppon it, for to put in Suger before wil make it heauy: Some vſe to put of the hearbe Tanſey into it, but the Walnut tree buds do giue the better taſte or relliſh; and therefore when you pleaſe for to vſe the one, doe not vſe the other.

To make the beſt Veale toſts; take the kidney fat, & all of a loyne of veale toſted, and ſhred as ſmall as is poſſible; then take a couple of Egges and beate them very well; which done, take Spinage, Succory, Violet-leaues, and Marigold-leaues, and beate them, and ſtraine out the iuyce, and mixe it with the Egges: then put it to your Veale, and ſtirre it exceedingly well in a diſh; then put to good ſtore of Currance cleane waſht and pickt, Cloues, Mace, Sinamon, Nutmegge, Sugar and Salt, and mixe them all perfectly well together: then take a Manchet and cut it into toſts, and toſt them well before the fire; then with a ſpoone lay vpon the toſt in a good thickneſſe the Veale, prepared as beforeſayd: which done, put into your frying pan good ſtore of ſweete Butter, and when it is well melted and very hot, put your toſtes into the ſame with the bread ſide vpward, and the fleſh ſide downeward: and aſſoone as you ſee they are fryed browne, lay vpon the vpper-ſide of the toſtes which are bare more of the fleſh meate, and then turne them, and frie that ſide browne alſo: then take them out of the pan and diſh them vp, and ſtrow Sugar vpon them, and ſo ſerue them forth.

There be ſome Cookes which will do this but vpon one ſide of the toſtes, but to do it on both is much better; if you adde Creame it is not amiſſe.

To make the beſt Panperdy, take a dozen Egges, & breake them, and beate them very well, then put vnto them Cloues, Mace, Cinamon, Nutmeg, and good ſtore of Sugar, with as much Salt as ſhall ſeaſon it: then take a Manchet, and cut it into thicke ſlices like toſtes; which done, take your frying pan, and put into it good ſtore of ſweete Butter, and being melted lay in your ſlices of bread, then powre vpon them one halfe of your Egges▪ then when that is fryed, with a diſh turne your ſlices of bread vpward, and then powre on them the other halfe of your Egges, & ſo turne them till both ſides be browne, then diſh i • vp, and ſerue it with Sugar ſtrowed vpon it.

To make a Quelquechoſe, which is a mixture of many things together; take the Egges and breake them, & do away the one halfe of the Whites, and after they are beaten put them to a good quantity of ſweete Creame, Currants, Cinamon, Cloues, Mace, Salt, & a little Ginger, Spinage, Endiue, and Marigold flowers groſſely chopt, and beate them all very well together; then take Piggs Petitoes ſlic't, and groſſely chopt, and mixe them with the egges, and with your hand ſtirre them exceeding well together; then put ſweete butter in your frying pan, and being melted, put in all the reſt, and fry it browne without burning, euer and anon turning it till it be fryed enough; then diſh it vp vpon a flat Plate, and ſo ſerue it forth. Onely herein is to be obſerued, that your Pettitoes muſt be very well boyled before you put them into the Frycaſe.

Take the Liuer of a fat Hogge, and parboile it, then ſhred it ſmal, and after beate it in a morter very fine; then mixe it with the thickeſt and ſweeteſt Creame, and ſtrayne it very wel through an ordinary ſtrainer, then put thereto ſix yolkes of egges, and two whites, and the grated crummes of neere-hand a penny white loafe, with good ſtore of Currants, Dates, Cloues, Mace, Sugar, Saffron, Salt, and the beſt Swine ſuet, or Beefe ſuet, but Beefe ſuet is the more wholſome, and leſſe looſning; then after it hath ſtood a while▪ fil it into the Farmes, & boile them, as before ſhewed: and when you ſerue them vnto the table, firſt, boile them a little, then lay them on a Gridyron ouer the coales, and broi • e them gently, but ſcorch them not, nor in any wiſe breake their skinnes, which is to be preuented by oft turning and toſſing them on the Gridyron, and keeping a ſlow fire.

Take the yolkes and Whites of a dozen or fourteene egges, and hauing beate them very wel, put vnto them the fine pouder of Cloues, Mace, Nutmegges, Sugar, Cynamon, Saffron and Salt; then take the quantity of two loaues of white grated Bread, Dates (very ſmal ſhred) and great ſtore of Currants, with good plenty eyther of Sheepes, Hogges, or Beefe ſuet beaten and cut ſmal: then when all is mixt and ſtirred wel together, & hath ſtood a while to ſettle, then fil it into the Farmes as hath been before ſhewed, and in like manner boyle them, cooke them, and ſerue them to the Table.

Take halfe a pound of Rice, and ſteepe it in new Milke a whole night, and in the morning draine it, and let the Milke drop away: then take a quart of the beſt, ſweeteſt and thickeſt Creame, and put the Rice into it, and boyle it a little; then ſet it to coole an houre or two, and after put in the Yolke, of halfe a dozen Egges, a little Pepper, Cloues, Mace, Currants, Dates, Sugar and Salt; and hauing mixt them well together, put in great ſtore of Beefe Suet well beaten, and ſmall ſhred, and ſo put it into the farmes, and boyle them as before ſhewed, and ſerue them after a day old.

Take the beſt Hogges Liuer you can get, and boyle it extreamely till it bee as hard as a ſtone; then lay it to coole, and being cold, vpon a bread-grater grate it all to powder; then ſift it through a fine meale fine, and put to it the crummes of (at leaſt) two penny loaues of white bread, and boyle all in the thickeſt and ſweeteſt Creame you haue till it be very thick; then let it coole, and put it to the yolkes of halfe a dozen Egges, a little Pepper, Cloues, Mace, Currants, Dates ſmall ſhred, Cinamon, Ginger, a little Nutmeg, good ſtore of Sugar, a little Saffron, Salt, and of Beefe and Swines ſuet great plenty, then fill it into the Farmes, & boyle them as before ſhewed.

Take the largeſt of your chines of Porke, and that which is called a Liſte, and firſt with your knife cut the leane thereof into thinne ſlices, and then ſhred ſmall thoſe ſlices, and then ſpread it ouer the bottome of a diſh or wodden platter: then take the fatte of the chine and the Liſte, and cut it in the very ſelfe ſame manner, and ſpread it vpon the leane, and then cut more leane, and ſpread it vppon the fatte, and thus doe one leane vpon another, till • ll the Porke be ſhred, obſeruing to beginne and ende with the leane: then with your ſharpe knife ſco • tch it through and through diuers wayes, and mixe it all well together: then take good ſtore of Sage, and ſhred it exceeding ſmall, and mixe it with the fleſh, then giue it a good ſeaſon of Pepper and Salt; then take the farmes made as long as is poſſible, and not cut in pieces as for Puddings, and firſt blow them well to make the meate ſlip, and then fill them: which done, with threads deuide them into ſeuerall linkes as you pleaſe, then hang them vp in the corner of ſome Chimney cleane kept, where they may take ayre of the fire, and let them drie there at leaſt foure dayes before any bee eaten; and when they are ſerued vp, let them bee either fried or broyled on the Gridyron, or elſe roaſted about a Capon.

It reſteth now that we ſpeake of boild meates and broths, which for aſmuch as our Houſ-wife is intended to be generall, one that can as well feed the poore as the rich, we will firſt begin with thoſe ordinary wholeſom boyld meates, which are of vſe in euery good mans houſe: therefore to make the beſt ordinary Pottage, you ſhall take a racke of Mutton cut into pieces▪ or a leg of Mutton cut into pieces; for this meate and theſe ioynts are the beſt, although any other ioynt, or any freſh Beefe will likewiſe make good Pottage: and hauing waſht your meate well, put it into a cleane pot with • a • re water, & ſet it on the fire; then take Violet leaues, Succory, Strawberry leaues, Spinage, Langdebeefe, Ma •• gola flowers, Scallions, and a little Parſly, and chop them very ſmall together, then take halfe ſo much oat-meale well beaten as there is Hearbs, and mixe it with the Hearbs, and chop all very well together: then when the pot is ready to boyle, s • um it very well, and then put in your hearbs, and ſo let it boyle with a quicke fire, ſtirring the meate oft in the pot, till the meate be boyld enough, and that the hearbs and water are mixt together without any ſeparation, which will be after the conſumption of more then a third part: Then ſeaſon them with Salt, and ſerue them vp with the meate either with Sippets or without.

To make an excellent boyled meate: take foure peeces of a • acke of mutton, and waſh them cleane, and put them into a pot well ſcowred with faire water: then take a good quantity of Wire and Veriuyce and put into it: then ſlice a handfull of Onions and put them i • alſo, and ſo let them boyle a good while, then take • peece of ſweete butter with ginger and ſalt and put it 〈◊〉 alſo, and then make the broth thicke with grated bread, and ſo ſerue it vp with ſippets.

To boyle a Mallard curio • ſly, take the Mallard when it is faire dreſſed, waſhed and truſt, and put it on a ſp • t and reſt it till you can get the grauy out of it: then take it from the ſpit and boyle it, then take the beſt of the broth into a Pip • in, and the grauy which you ſaued, with a peece of ſweete butter and Currants, Vinegar, Sugar, Pepper and grated bread: Thus boyle all theſe together, and when the Mallard is boyled ſufficiently, lay, it on a diſh with ſippets, and the broth vpon it, and ſo ſerue it foorth.

To make the beſt white broth, whether it be with Veale, Capon, Chickins, or any other Fowle or Fiſh: Firſt boile the fleſh or fiſh by it ſelfe, then take the value of a quart of ſtrong mutton broth, or fat Kidde broth, and put it into a pipkin by it ſelfe, and put into it a bunch of Time, Morierome, Spinage and Endiue bound together; then when it ſeeths put in a pretty quantity of Beefe marrow, and the marrow of Mutton, with ſome whole Mace and a few bruiſed Cloues; then put in a pint of White-wine with a few whole ſlices of Ginger; after theſe haue boyled a whi • e together, take blaunch't Almonds, and hauing beaten them together in a mo • ter with ſome of the broth, ſtraine them and put it in alſo; then in another pipkin boi • e Currants, P • unes, Raiſins, and whole Cinamon in veriuice and Sugar, with a few ſliced Dates; and boile them till the veriuice bee moſt part conſumed▪ or at leaſt come to a ſyrrup; then draine the fruit from the ſirrup, and if you ſee it be • igh coloured; make it white with ſweete creame warmed, and ſo mixe it with your wine broth; then take out the Capon or the other Fleſh or Fiſh, and diſh it vp drie in a diſh; then powre the broth vpon it, and lay the fruite on the top of the meate, and adorne the ſide or the diſh with very dainty ſippets; firſt Orenges, Lemmons, and Sugar, and ſo ſerue it foorth to the table.

To boile a legge of Mutten, or any other ioynt of meate whatſoeuer; firſt after you haue waſht it cleane, parboi • e it a little, then ſpit it and giue it halfe a dozen turnes before the fire, then draw it when it beginnes to drop, and preſſe it betweene two diſhes, and ſaue the grauy; then ſlaſh it with your knife, and giue it halfe a dozen turnes more, and then preſſe it againe, and thus doe as often as you can force any moiſture to come from it, then mixing Mutton-broth, White-wine, and Veriuice together, boyle the Mutton therein till it bee tender, and that moſt part of the liquor is cleane conſumed; then hauing all that while kept the grauy you tooke from the Mutton, ſtewing gently vppon a Chaffing diſh and coales, you ſhall adde vnto it good ſtore of ſalt; ſugar, cinamon and ginger, with ſome Lemmon ſlices, and a little of an Oringe pill, with a few fine white-bread crums: then taking vp the Mutton, put the remainder of the broth in, and put in, likewiſe the grauie, and then ſerue it vp with ſippets, laying the Lemmon ſlices vppermoſt, and trimming the diſh about with Sugar.

If you will boile Chickens, young Turkies, Pea-hens, or any houſe fowle daintily, you ſhall after you haue trimmed them, drawne them, truſt them, and waſht them, fill their bellies as full of Parſly as they can hold; then boyle them with ſalt and water onely till they bee enough: then take a diſh and put into it veriuice, and Butter, and Salt, and when the Butter is melted, take the Parſly out of the Chickens bellies, and mince it very ſmall, and put it to the veriuice and Butter, and ſtirre it well together; then lay in the Chickens, and trimme the diſh with ſippets, and ſo ſerue it foorth.

If you will make broth for any freſh fiſh whatſoeuer, whether it be Pike, Breame, Carpe, Eele, Barbell or ſuch like: you ſhall boile water, veriuice and Salt together with a handfull of ſliced Onions, then you ſhal thicken it with two or three ſpoonefull of Alebarme; then put in a good quantity of whole Barberies, both branches and other, as alſo pretty ſtore of Currants: then when it is boild enough, diſh vp your Fiſh, and powre your broth vnto it, laying the fruite and Onions vppermoſt. Some to this broth, will put Prunes, and Dates ſlic't, but it is according to the fancy of the Cooke, or the will of the Houſe-holder.

Thus I haue from theſe few preſidents ſhewed you the true Art and making of all ſorts of boild-meates, and broths; and though men may coine ſtrange names, and faine ſtrange Art, yet be aſſured ſhe that can doe theſe, may make any other whatſoeuer; altering the taſte by the alteration of the compounds as ſhee ſhall ſee occaſion: And when a broth is too ſweete, to ſharpen it with veriuyce, when too tart, to ſweeten it with ſugar: when flat and wallowiſh, to quicken it with Orenges and Lemmons; and when too bitter, to make it pleaſant with hearbes and ſpices.

Take a Mallard when it is cleane dreſſed, waſhed and truſt, and parboyle it in water till it be sk •• nd and purified: then take it vp, and put it into a Pipkin with the nocke downeward, and the tayle vpward, ſtanding as it were vpright: then fill the Pipkin halfe full with that water, in which the Mallard was parboyld, and fill vp the other halfe with White Wine: then pill and ſlice thin a good quantite of Onyons, and put them in with whole fine hearbes, according to the time of the yeare, as Lettice, Strawberry-leaues, Violet-leaues, Vine-leaues, Spinage, Endiue, Succory, and ſuch like, which haue no bitter or hard taſte, and a pretty quantity of Currants and Dates ſliced: then couer it cloſe, and ſet it on a gentle fire, and let it ſtew, and ſmoare till the Hearbs and Onyons be ſoft, and the Mallard inough: then take out the Mallard, and carue it as it were to goe to the Table; then to the Broth put a good lumpe of Butter, Sugar, Cinamon, and if it be in ſummer, ſo many Gooſe-berries as will giue it a ſharpe taſte, but in the winter as much wine Vinegar, then heate it on the fire, and ſtirre all well together: then lay the Mallard in a diſh with ſippets, and powre all this broth vpon it, then trim the edge of the diſh with Sugar, and ſo ſerue it vp. And in this manner you may alſo ſmoate the hinder parts of a Hare, or a whole olde Cony, being truſt vp cloſe together.

After your Pike is dreſt and opened in the backe, and layd flat, as if it were to fry, then lay it in a large diſh for the purpoſe, able to receiue it; then put as much White Wine to it as will couer it all ouer; then ſet it on a chaffin-diſh and coales to boyle very gently, and if any skum ariſe, take it away; then put to it Currants, Sugar, Cynamon, Barbery-berries, and as many Prunes as will ſerue to garniſh the diſh; then couer it cloſe with another diſh, and let it ſtew till the fruit be ſoft, and the Pike enough; then put to it a good lumpe of ſweet Butter; then with a fine skummer take vp the fiſh and lay it in a cleane diſh with Sippets, then take a couple of yolks of egges, the filme taken away, and beate them well together with a ſpoonefull or two of Creame, and aſſoone as the Pike is taken out, put it into the broth, and ſtirre it exceedingly to keepe it from curding; then powre the broth vpon the Pike, and trim the ſides of the diſh with Sugar, Prunes, and Barberies, ſlices of Orenges or Lemmons, and ſo ſerue it vp. And thus may you alſo ſtew Rochets, Gurnets, or almoſt any ſea-fiſh, or freſh-fiſh.

Take a Lambs-head and Purtenance cleane waſht & pickt and put it into a Pipkin with faire water, and let it boile and skumme it cleane; then put in Currants and a few ſliced Dates, and a bunch of the beſt fercing hearbs tyed vp together, and ſo let it boyle well till the meate be enough: then take vp the Lambes head and purtenance, and put it into a cleane diſh with Sippets; then put in a good lumpe of Butter, and beate the yolkes of two Egges with a little Creame, and put it to the broth with Sugar, Cynamon, and a ſpoonefull or two of Verdiuyce, and whole Mace, and as many Prunes as will garniſh the diſh, which ſhould be put in when it is but halfe boyld, and ſo powre it vpon the Lambes-head and Purtenance, and adorne the ſides of the diſh with Sugar, Prunes, Barberries, Orenges, and Lemons, and in no caſe forget not to ſeaſon well with Salt, and ſo ſerue it vp.

Take a very good breaſt of Mutton chopt into ſundry large pieces, and when it is cleane waſht, put it into a pipkin with faire water, and ſet it on the fire to boyle; then skum it very well, then put in of the fineſt Parſneps cut into large pieces as long as ones hand, and cleane waſht and ſcrapt; then good ſtore of the beſt onions, & all manner of ſweet pleaſant Pot-hearbs and lettice, all groſſely chopt, and good ſtore of peper & ſalt, and then couer it, and let it ſtew till the Mutton be enough; then takt vp the Mutton, and lay it in a cleane diſh with Sippets, and to the broath put a little Wine-vinegar, and ſo powre it on the Mutton with the Parſneps whole, and adorne the ſides of the diſh with Sugar, and ſo ſerue it vp: and as you doe with the Breſt, ſo you may doe with any other Ioynt of Mutton.

Take a Neates foot that is very well boyld (for the tenderer it is, the better it is) & cleaue it in two, and with a cleane cloth dry it well from the Souſ-drinke; then lay it in a deepe earthen platter, and couer it with Verdiuyce; then ſet it on a chaffing-diſh and coales, and put to it a few Currants, and as many Prunes as will garniſh the diſh; then couer it, and let it boile well, many times ſtirring it vp with your knife, for feare it ſticke to the bottome of the diſh; then when it is ſufficiently ſtewed, which will appeare by the tenderneſſe of the meate and ſoftneſſe of the fruite; then put in a good lumpe of Butter, great ſtore of Sugar and Sinamon, and let it boile a little after: then put it altogether into a cleane diſh with Sippets, and adorne the ſides of the diſh with Sugar and Prunes, and ſo ſerue it vp.

Then to know the temperatures of fires for euery meate, and which muſt haue a ſlow fire, yet a good one, taking leaſure in roaſting, as Chines of Beefe, Swannes, Turkies, Peacocks, Buſtards, and generally any great large Fowle, or any other ioynts of Mutton, Veale, Porke, Kidde, Lambe, or ſuch like: whether it be Veniſon red, or Fallow, which indeed would lie long at the fire and ſoake well in the roaſting, and which would haue a quick and ſharpe fire without ſcorching; as Pigs, Pullets, Pheaſants, Partridge, Quaile, and all ſorts of middle ſized or leſſer fowle, and all ſmall birds, or compound roaſt-meates, as Oliues, of Veale, Haſlets; a pound of butter roaſted; or puddings ſimple of themſelues, and many other ſuch like, which indeed would be ſuddenly and quickely diſpatcht, becauſe it is intended in Cookery, that one of theſe diſhes muſt be made ready whilſt the other is in eating. Then to knowe the complexions of meates,The complexions of meate, as which muſt bee pale and white roaſtd (yet thoroughly roaſted) as Mutton, Veale, Lambe, Kid, Capon, Pullet, Pheaſant, Partridge, Qua • le, and all ſorts of middle and ſmall land, or water fowle, and all ſmall birds, and which muſt be browne roaſted, as Beefe, veniſon, Porke, Swanne, Geeſe, Pigges, Crane, Buſtards, and any large fowle, or other thing whoſe fleſh is blacke.

You ſhall take a Legge of Veale, and cut the fleſh from the bones, and cut it out into thin long ſlices; then take ſweete hearbes, and the white parts of ſcallions, and chop them well together with the yelkes of egges, then fowle it vp within the ſlices of veale, and ſo ſpit them, and roaſt them: then boyle veriuice, butter, ſugar, cynamon, currants and ſweete hearbes together, and being ſeaſoned with a little ſalt, ſerue the Oliues vp vpon that ſauce with ſalt, caſt ouer them.

To roaſt a Pigge curiouſly, you ſhall not ſcald it, but draw it with the haire on, then hauing waſht it, ſpit it and lay it to the fire ſo as it may not ſcorch, then being a quarter roaſted, and the skinne bliſtered from the fleſh, with your hand pull away the haire and skin, and leaue all the fat and fleſh perfectly b • r • : then with your knife ſcotch all the fleſh downe to the bones, then baſte it exceedingly with ſweete butter and creame, being no more but warme: then dredge it with fine bread-crummes, currants, ſugar and ſalt mixt together, and thus apply dredging, vpon baſting, and baſting vpon dredging, till you haue couered all the fleſh a full inch deepe: Then the meate being fully roaſted, draw it, and ſerue it vp whole.

If you will roaſt a chine of Beefe, a loyne of Mutton, a Capon, and a Larke, all at one inſtant, and at one fire, and haue all ready together and none burnt: you ſhall firſt take you • chine of Beefe and parboyle it more then halfe through: Then firſt take your Capon, beeing large and fat, and ſpit it next the hand of the turner, with the legges from the fire, then ſpit the chine of Beefe, then the Larke, and laſtly the loyne of Mutton, and place the Larke ſo as it may be couered ouer with the Beefe, and the fat part of the loyne of Mutton, without any part diſclosed: Then baſte your Capon, and your loyne of Mutton with cold water and ſalt, the chine of Beefe with boyling Larde: Then when you ſee the beefe is almoſt enough, which you ſhall haſten by ſchotching and opening of it: then with a cleane cloth you ſhall wipe the Mutton and Capon all ouer, and then baſte it with ſweete butter till all be enough roaſted: then with your knife lay the Larke open which by this time will be ſtewed betweene the Beefe and Mutton, and baſting it alſo with dredge all together, draw them and ſerue them vp.

If you will roaſt a peece of freſh Sturgeon, which is a dainty diſh, you ſhall ſtop it with cloues, then ſpit it, and let it roaſt at great leaſure, plying it continually with baſting, which will take away the hardneſſe: then when it is enough, you ſhall draw it, and ſerue it vpon veniſon ſauce with ſalt onely throwne vppon it.

Take a Cowes vdder, and firſt boyle it well: then ſticke it thicke all ouer with C • oues: then when it is cold, ſpit it, and lay it to the fire, and apply i • very well with baſting of ſweete Butter, and when it is ſufficiently roaſted, and browne, then dredge it, and draw it from the fire, take vinegar and butter, and put it on a Chaffing-diſh and coales, and boyle it with White-bread crummes, till it be thick, then put to it good ſtore of Sugar and Cynamon, and putting it in a cleane diſh▪ lay the Cowes Vdder therein, and trimme the ſides of the diſh with ſugar, and ſo ſerue it vp.

Take an excellent good legge of Veale, and cut the thicke part thereof a handfull and more from the Knuckle: then take the thicke part (which is the fillet) and fierce it in euery part all ouer with Strawberry-leaues, Violet-leaues, Sor • ell, Spinage, Endiue and Succorie groſſely chopt together, and good ſtore of Onyons: then lay it to the fire and roaſt it very ſufficiently and browne, caſting good ſtore of ſalt vpon it, and baſting it well with ſweete Butter: then take of the former hearbes much finer chopt then they were for fiercing, and put them into a Pipkin with Vinegar, and cleane waſht Currants, and boyle them well together: then when the hearbes are ſufficiently boyld and ſoft, take the yelkes of ſome very hard boyld Egges, and ſhred them very ſmall, and put them into the Pipkin alſo with Sugar and Cynamon, and ſome of the grauie which drops from the veale, and boyle it ouer againe, and then put it into a cleane diſh, and the Fillet beeing dredgd and drawne, lay vpon it, and trimme the ſide of the diſh with Sugar, and ſo ſerue it vp.

To make an excellent ſauce for a roſt Capon, you ſhall take Onyons, and hauing ſliced and pilled them, boyle them in faire water with pepper, ſalt, and a few bread-crummes: then put vnto it a ſpoonfull or two of Claret wine, the iuyce of an Orenge, and three or foure ſlices of a Lemmon pill; all theſe ſhred together, and ſo powre it vpon the Capon being broake vp.

To make ſauce for an old Hen or Pullet, take a good quantity of beere and ſalt, and mixe them well together with a few fine bread-crummes, and boyle them on a chaffing diſh and coales, then take the yelkes of three or foure hard Egges, and being ſhred ſmall, put it to the Beere, and boyle it alſo: then the Hen being almoſt enough, take three or foure ſpoonefull of the grauy which comes from her and put it in alſo, and boyle all together to an indifferent thickneſſe: which done, ſuffer it to boyle no more, but onely keepe it warme on the fire, and put into it the iuyce of two or three orenges, and the ſlices of Lemmon pils ſhred ſmall, and the ſlices of orenges alſo hauing the vpper rine taken away: then the Henne beeing broken vp, take the brawnes thereof, and ſhredding them ſmall, put it into the ſauce alſo, and ſtirring all well together, put it hot into a cleane warme diſh, and lay the Henne (broke vp) in the ſame.

The ſauce for Chickins is diuers, according to mens taſtes: for ſome will onely haue butter, Veriuice, and a little Parſley rolled in their bellies mixt together; others will haue Butter, veriuice and Sugar boild together with toaſts of bread: and others will haue thick ſippets with the iuyce of Sorrell and Sugar mixt together.

The beſt ſauce for a Pheſant, is wrter and onions • liſt▪ Pepper and a little Salt mixt together, and but ſtewed vpon the coales, and then powred vpon the Pheſant or Partridge being broken vp, and ſome will put thereto the iuyce or ſlices of of an orenge or lemmon, or both: but it is according to taſte, and indeed more proper for a Pheaſant then a P • tridge.

Sauce for a Quaile, Raile or any fat big bird, is Claret wine and Salt mixt together with the grauy of the Bird, and a few fine bread-crummes well boild together, and either a Sage-leafe, or Bay-leafe cruſht among it according to mens taſts.

The moſt generall ſauce for ordinary wild-fowle roſted, as Duckes, Mallard, Widgen, Teale, Snipe, Sheldrake, Plouers, Puets, Guls, and ſuch like, is onely muſtard and vinegar, or muſtard and veriuice mixt together, or elſe an onion, water and pepper, and ſome (eſpeciall in the Court) vſe only butter melted, and not with any thing elſe.

The beſt ſauce for greene Geeſe is the iuyce of ſorrell and ſugar mixt together with a few ſcalded Feberries, and ſerued vpon ſippets, or elſe the belly of the greene Gooſe fild with Feberries, and ſo roſted, and then the ſame mixt with veriuyce, butter, ſugar and cynamon, and ſo ſerued vpon ſippets.

The ſauce for a ſtuble Gooſe is diuerſe, according to mens minds for ſome will take the pap of roſted apples, and mixing it with vinegar, boyle them together on the fire with ſome of the grauy of the Gooſe, and a few Barberies and bread crummes, and when it is boyld to a good thickneſſe, ſeaſon it with ſugar and a little cinamon, and ſo ſerue it vp: ſome will adde a little muſtard and onions vnto it, and ſome will not roſt the apples, but pa •• them and ſlice them, and that is the neerer way, but not the better. Others will fill the bel • y of the Gooſe full of Onions ſhred, and oate-mea • e groats, and being roſted enough, mixe it with the grauy of the Gooſe, and ſweete hearbs well boild together, a • d ſeaſoned with a little veriuyce.

To make a Gallantine, or ſauce for a Swan, Bitter, Shoueler, H • orne, Crane, or any large foule, take the blood of the ſame fowle, and being ſtird well, boile it on the fire, then when it comes to be thecke,Shoueler, or large Fowle. put vnto it vinegar a good quantity, with a few fine bread-crummes, and ſo boile it ouer againe: then being come to good thicknes, ſeaſon it with Sugar & Cinamon, ſo as it may taſte pretty and ſharpe vpon the Cinamon, and then ſerue it vp in ſaucers as you do Muſtard: for this is called a chauder or gallantine, & is a ſauce almoſt for any foule whatſoeuer.

To make ſauce for a Pigge, ſome take Sage and roaſt it in the belly of the Pigge, then boiling ver • uice, Butter and currants together, take & chop the Sage ſmall, and mixing the braines of the Pig with it, put all together, and ſo ſerue it vp.

To make a ſauce for a Ioynt of Veale, take all kind of ſweete Pot hearbs, and chopping them very ſmall with the yelkes of two or three Egges, boyle them in vinegar and Butter, with a few bread crummes, and good ſtore of Currants; then ſeaſon it with Sugar and Sinamon, and a cloue or two cruſht, and ſo powre it vppon the Veale, with the ſlices of Orenges and Lemons about the diſh.

Take faire water and ſet it ouer the fire, then ſlice good ſtore of Onions and put into it, and alſo Pepper and Salt, and good ſtore of the grauy that comes from the Turkie, and boyle them very well together: then put to it a few fine crummes of grated bread to thicken it; a very little Sugar and ſome vinegar, and ſo ſerue it vp with the Turkey: or otherwiſe, take grated white bread and boile it in White wine till it be thicke as a Gallantine, and in the boyling put in good ſtore of Sugar and Cinamon, and then with a little Turneſole make it of a high Murrey colour, and ſo ſerue it in Saucers with the Turkey in the manner of a Gallantine.

Take good ſtore of Onions, pill them, and ſlice them, and put them into vinegar, and boyle them very well till they be tender: then put into it a good lumpe of ſweete butter, and ſeaſon it well with Sugar and Cinamon, and ſo ſerue it vp with the Fowle.

Charbonados, or Carbonados, which is meate broiled vpon the coales (and the inuention thereof firſt brought out of France, as appeares by the name) are of diuers kinds according to mens pleaſures: for there is no meate either boiled or roaſted whatſoeuer, but may afterwards be broiled, if the Maiſter thereof be diſpoſed; yet the generall diſhes for the moſt part which are vſed to be Carbonadoed, are a Breaſt of Mutton halfe boyled, a ſhoulder of Mutton halfe roaſted, the Leggs, Winges, and Carkaſes of Capon, T • ey, Gooſe, or any other Fowle whatſoeuer, eſpecially Land-Fowle.

And laſtly, the vttermoſt thicke skinne which couereth the ribbes of Beefe, and is called (beeing broyled) the Inns of Court-Gooſe, and is indeed a diſh vſed moſt for wantonneſſe, ſometimes to pleaſe appetite: to which may alſo be added the broyling of Pigs heads, or the braines of any Fowle whatſoeuer after it is roaſted and dreſt.

Now for the manner of Carbonadoing, it is in this ſort; you ſhall firſt take the meate you muſt Carbonadoe, and ſcorch it both aboue and below, then ſprinkle good ſtore of Salt vpon it, and baſte it all ouer with ſweete Butter melted, which done, take your broiling-iron, I doe not meane a Grid-iron (thouhg it be much vſed for this purpoſe) becauſe the ſmoake of the coales, occaſioned by the dropping of the meate, will aſcend about it, and make it ſtinke; but a plate. Iron made with hookes and pricks, on which you may hang the meate, and ſet it cloſe before the fire, and ſo the Plate heating the meate behind, as the fire doth before, it will both the ſooner, and with more neateneſſe bee readie: then hauing turned it, and baſted it till it bee very browne, dredge it, and ſerue it vp with Vinegar and Butter.

Take any Freſh-fiſh whatſoeuer (a Pike, Breame, Carpe, Barbe • l, Cheain, and ſuch like, and draw it, but ſcale it not; then take out the Liuer and the refuſe, and hauing opened it, waſh it; then take a pottle of faire water, a pretty quantity of white wine, good ſtore of ſalt, and ſome vinegar, with a little bunch of ſweete hearbs, and ſet it on the fire, and as ſoone as it begins to boile, put in your fiſh, and hauing boild a little, take it vp into a faire veſſell, then put into the liquor ſome groſſe pepper and ginger, & when it is boild well together with more ſalt, ſet it by to coole, and then put your fiſh into it, and when you ſerue it vp, lay Fenell thereupon.

To boyle ſmall fiſh, as Roches, Da • es, Gudgeon or Flounders, boyle White-wine and water together with a bunch of choiſe hearbs, a • d a little whole mace; when all is boyled well together, put in your fiſh, and ſkinn it well: then put in the ſoale of a manchet, a good quantity of ſweet butter, and ſeaſon it with pepper and veriuice, and ſo ſerue it in vpon ſippets, and adorne the ſides of the diſh with ſugar.

After you haue drawne, waſht and ſcalded a faire large Carpe, ſeaſon it with pepper, ſalt and Nutmeg, and then put it into a coffin with good ſtore of ſweete butter, and then caſt on Rayſins of the Sunne, the iuyce of Lemons, and ſome ſlices of orenge pils; and then ſprinkling on a little vinegar, cloſe vp and bake it.

Firſt, let your Tench blood in the tayle, then ſcoure it, waſh it, and ſcald it, then hauing dried it, take the fine crummes of bread, ſweete Creame, the yelkes of Egges, Currants cleane waſht, a few ſweete hearbes 〈◊〉 ſmall, ſeaſon it with Nutmegs and Pepper, and make • t into a ſtiff • paſte, and put it into the belly of the T •• ch: then ſeaſon the fi • h on the outſide with pepper, ſalt and Nutmeg, and ſo put it into a deepe coffin with ſweete Butter, and ſo cloſe vp the pye and bake it: then when it is enough, draw it, and open it, and put into it a good pe • ce of preſerued Orenge minſt: then take Vinegar, Nutmeg, Butter, Sugar, and the yelke of a new-layd egge, and boyle it on a Chaffing-diſh and coales, alwayes ſtirring it to keepe it from curding; then powre it into the pye, ſhake it well, and ſo ſerue it vp.

Take a large Trout, faire trimd, and waſh it, and put it into a deepe pewter diſh, then take halfe a pint of ſweete wine, with a lumpe of butter, and a little whole m • ce, pa • ſley, ſauory and time, mince them all ſmall, and put them into the Trouts belly, and ſo let it ſtew a quarter of an houre: then minſe the yelke of an hard Egge, ſtrow it on the Trout, and laying the hearbs about it; and ſcraping on ſugar, ſerue it vp.

After you haue drawne your Eeles, chop them into ſmall peeces of three or foure inches, and ſeaſon them with Pepper, Salt and Ginger, and ſo put them into a coffin with a good lumpe of butter, great Rayſins; Onions ſmall chopt, and ſo cloſe it, bake it, and ſerue it vp.

Next to theſe already rehearſed, our Engl • ſh Houſe-w • fe muſt be skilfull in paſtery, and know how and in what manner to bake all ſorts of meate, and what paſt is fit for euery meate, and how to handle and compound ſuch paſts: As for example, red Deere veniſon, wilde Boare, Gammons of Bacon, Swans, Elkes, Porpus, and ſuch like ſtanding diſhes, which muſt be kept long, wold be bak't in a moyſt, thicke, rough, courſe, & long laſting cruſt, and therefore of al other your Rye paſte it beſt for that purpoſe: your Turkie, Capon, Pheaſant, Part • idg • , Veale, Peacocks, Lambe, and al • ſorts of water-fow • e which are to come to the table more then once (yet not m • ny dayes, would be bak't in a good white cruſt, ſomewhat thick, therefore your Wheate is fit for them: your Chickens, Calues-feet, Oliues, Potatoes, Quinces, Fallow Deere and ſuch like, which are moſt commonly eaten hot, would be in the fineſt, ſhorteſt and thinneſt cruſt; therefore your fine wheat flower which is a little baked in the ouen before it be kneaded is the beſt for that purpoſe.

Now for the making of puff • paſt of the beſt kind, you ſhall take the fineſt wheat flowre after it hath bin a little back't in a pot in the ou • n▪ and blend it we • l with egges whites and yelkes a • l together, and af • er the paſte is well kneaded, roul • out a p • rt thereof as thinne as you pleaſe, and then ſpread cold ſweete butter ouer the ſame, then vpon the ſame butter role another leafe of the paſte as before; and ſpread it with butter alſo; and thus role leafe vpon leafe with butter betweene till it be as thicke as you thinke good: and with it either couer any bak • t meate, or make paſtie for Veniſon, Florentine, Tart or what diſh elſe you pleaſe and ſo bake it: there be ſome that to this paſte vſe ſugar, but it is certaine it will hinder the riſing thereof; and therefore when your puft paſte is bak't, you ſhall diſſolue ſugar into Roſe-water, and drop it into the paſte as much as it will by any meanes receiue, and then ſet it a little while in the ouen after and it will be ſweete enough.

To make an execelle • t Oliue-pie: take ſweete hearbs as Violet leaues, Strawberry leaues, Spinage, Succory, Endine, Time and Sorrell, and chop them as ſmall as may be, and if there be a Scallion or two amongſt them it will giue the better taſte, then take the yelks of hard egges with Currants, Cinamon, Cloues and Mace, and and chop them amongſt the hearbs alſo; then hauing cut out long oliues of a legge of Veale, roule vp more then three parts of the hearbs ſo mixed within the Oliues, together with a good deale of ſweet butter; then hauing raiſed your cruſt of the fineſt and beſt paſte, ſtrow in the bottome the remainder of the hearbs, with a few great Raiſins hauing the ſtones pickt out: then put in the Oliues and couer them with great Raiſins and a few Prunes: then ouer all lay good ſtore of Butter and ſo bake them: then being ſufficiently bak't, take Claret wine, Sugar, Cinamon, and two or three ſpoonefull of wine Vinegar and boile them together, and then drawing the pie, at a vent in the top of the lid put in the ſame, and then ſet it into the Ouen againe a little ſpace, and ſo ſerue it forth.

To bake the beſt Marrow-bone-pye, after you haue mixt the cruſts of the beſt ſort of paſtes, and raiſed the coffin in ſuch manner as you pleaſe: you ſhall firſt in the bottome thereof lay a courſe of marrow of Beefe mixt with Currants: then vpon it a lay of the ſoales of Artichokes, after they haue beene boiled, and are diuided from the thiſtle: then couer them ouer with marrow, Currants, and great Raiſins, the ſtones pickt out: then lay a courſe of Potatoes cut in thicke ſlices, after they haue beene boiled ſoft, and are cleane pild: then couer them with marrow, Currants, great Raiſins, Sugar and Cinamon: then lay a layer of candied Eringo-rootes mixt very thicke with the ſlices of Dates: then couer it with marrow, Currants, great Raiſins, Sugar, Cinamon and Dates, with a few Damaske-prunes, and ſo bake it: and after it is bakt powre into it as long as it will receiue it white-wine, roſe-water, ſugar, cinamon, and vinegar, mixt together, and candie all the couer with roſe-water and ſugar onely; and ſo ſet it into the ouen a little, and after ſerue it forth.

To make good Red-Deere Veniſon of Hares, take a Hare or two, or three, as you can or pleaſe, and picke all the fleſh from the bones; then put it into a morter either of wood or ſtone, and with a wooden peſtle let a ſtrong perſon beate it exceedingly, and euer as it is beating, let one ſprinkle in vinegar and ſome ſalt; then when it is ſufficiently beaten, take it out of the morter, and put it into boiling water and parboile it: when it is parboild, take it and lay it on a table in a round lumpe, and lay a board ouer it, & with weights preſſe it as hard as may be: then the water being preſt out of it, ſeaſon it well with Pepper and Salt: then lard it with the fat of Bacon ſo thicke as may be: then bake it as you bake other Red-Deere, which is formerly declared.

Take a Hare and pick off all the fleſh from the bones, and only reſerue the head, then parboile it well: which done, take it out and let it coole, aſſoone as it is cold, take at leaſt a pound and halfe of Raiſins of the Sunne, and take out the ſtones: then mixe them with a good quantity of Mutton ſuet, and with a ſharpe ſhredding knife ſhred it as ſmall as you would doe for a Chewet: then put to it Currants and whole Raiſins, Cloues and Mace, Cinamon and Salt: then hauing raiſed the coffin long wiſe to the proportion of a Hare, firſt lay in the head, and then the aforeſaid meate, and lay the meate in the true portion of a Hare, with necke, ſhoulders, and legges, and then couer the coffin and bake it as other bak't meates of that nature.

Take a Gammon of Bacon and onely waſh it cleane, and then boile it on a ſoft gentle fire, til • it be boiled as tender as is poſſible, euer and anon fleeting it cleane, that by all meanes it may boile white: then take off the ſwerd, and ſ • ar • e it very well with all manner of ſweete and pleaſant ſerſſing hearbs: then ſtrow ſtore of Pepper ouer it, and pricke it thicke with Cloues: then lay it into a coffin made of the ſame proportion, and lay good ſtore of Butter round about it, and vpon it, and ſtrow Pepper vpon the Butter, that as it melts, the Pepper may fal • vppon the Bacon: then couer it, and make the proportion of a Pigges head in paſte vpon it, and then bake it as you bake Red Deere, or things of the like nature, onely the Paſte would be of Wheate-meale.

Take white pickled Herrings of one nights watering and boyle them a little: then pill off the skinne and take onely the backs of them, and picke the fiſh cleane from the bones, then take good ſtore of Raiſins of the Sunne, and ſtone them, and put them to the fiſh: then take a Warden or two, and pare it, and ſlice it in ſmall ſlices from the chore, and put it likewiſe to the fiſh: then with a very ſharpe ſhredding knife ſhred all as ſmall and fine as may be: then put • o it good ſtore of Currants, Sugar▪ Cinamon, ſlic't Dates, and ſo put it into the coffin with good ſtore of very ſweet Butter, and ſo couer it, and leaue onely a round vent-hole on the top of the lid, and ſo bake it like pies of that nature: When it is ſufficiently bak't, draw it out, and take Claret-wine and a little Veriuice, Sugar, Cinamon, and ſweet Butter, and boile them together; then put it in at the vent-hole, and ſhake the pie a little, and put it againe into the Ouen for a little ſpace, and ſo ſerue it vp, the lid being candied ouer with Sugar, and the ſides of the diſh trimmed with Sugar.

Take a Iole of the beſt Ling that is not much watred, and is well ſodden and cold, but whileſt it is hot take off the skin, and pare it cleane vnderneath, and pick out the bones cleane from the fiſh: then cut it into groſſe bits and let it lie: then take the yelks of a dozen Egges boild exceeding hard, and put them to the fiſh, and ſhred all together as ſmall as is poſſible: then take all manner of the beſt and fineſt pot-herbs, and chop them wonderfull ſmall, and mixe them alſo with the fiſh; then ſeaſon it with Pepper, Cloues, and Mace, and ſo lay it into a coffin with great ſtore of ſweete Butter, ſo as it may ſwimme therein, and then couer it, and leaue a vent hole open in the top when it is bak't, draw it, and take Vertuice, Sugar, Cinamon and Butter, and boile them together, and firſt with a feather annoynt all the lid ouer with that liquor, and then ſcrape good ſtore of Sugar vpon it; then powre the reſt of the liquor in at the vent hole, & then ſet it into the Ouen againe for a very little ſpace, and then ſerue it vp as pies of the ſ • me natu • e, and both theſe pies of fiſh before rehearſed, are eſpeca • l Lenten di • hes.

Take a pint of the ſweeteſt and thickeſt Creame that can be gotten, and ſet it on the fire in a very cleane ſcowred skillet, and put into it Sugar, Cinamon and a Nutmegge cut into foure quarters, and ſo boile it well: then take the yelkes of foure Egs, and take off the filmes, and beate them well with a little ſweete Creame: then take the foure quarters of the Nutmegge out of the Creame, then put in the Egges, and ſtirre it exceedingly, till it be thicke: then take a fine Manchet, and cut it into thin ſhiues, as much as will couer a diſh-bottome, and holding it in your hand, powre halfe the Creame into the diſh: then lay your bread ouer it, then couer the bread with the reſt of the Creame, and ſo let it ſtand till it be cold: then ſtrow it ouer with Carraway Comfets, and pricke vp ſome Cinamon Comfets, and ſome ſlic't Dates; or for want thereof, ſcrape all ouer it ſome Sugar, and trim the ſides of the diſh with Sugar, and ſo ſerue it vp.

Take a pint of the beſt and thickeſt Creame, and ſet it on the fire in a cleane skillet, and put into it Sugar, Cinamon, and a Nutmegge cut into foure quarters, and ſo boile it well: then put it into the diſh you intend to ſerue it in, and let it ſtand to coole till it be no more then luke-warme: then put in a ſpoonefull of the beſt earning, and ſtirre it well about, and ſo let it ſtand till it be cold, and then ſtrow Sugar vpon it, and ſo ſerue it vp, and this you may ſerue either in diſh, glaſſe, or other plate.

Take Calues feete well boild, and picke all the meate from the bones: then being cold 〈◊〉 red it as ſmall as you can, then ſeaſon it with Cloues and Mace, and put in good ſtore of Currants, Raiſins, and Prunes: then put i • into the coffin with good ſtore of ſweete Butter, then breake in whole ſtickes of Cinamon, and a Nutmegge ſlic't into foure quarters, and ſeaſon it before with Salt: then cloſe vp the coffin, and onely leaue a vent-hole. When it is bak't, draw it, and at the vent-hole put in the ſame liquor you did in the Ling-pie, and trim the lid after the ſame manner, and ſo ſerue it vp.

Take of the greateſt Oyſters drawne from the ſhells, and parboile them in Veriuice: then put them into a cuſlander, and let all the moyſture run from them, till they be as dry as is poſſible: then raiſe vp the coffin of the pie, and lay them in: then put to them good ſtore of Currants and fine powdred Sugar, with whole M • c • , whole Cloues, whole Cinamon, and Nutmeg ſl • c't, Dates cut, and good ſtore of ſweete butter: then couer it, and onely leaue a vent-hole: when it is bak't, then draw it, and take White wine, and White-wine vinegar, Sugar, Cinamon, and ſweete but • er, and melt it together; then firſt trim the lid therewith, and candie it with Sugar; then powre the reſt in at the vent hole, and ſhake it well, and ſo ſet it into the ouen againe for a little ſpace, and ſo ſerue it vp, the diſh edges trimd with Sugar. Now ſome vſe to put to this pie O • i • ns ſliced and ſhred, but that is referred to diſcretion, and to the pleaſure of the taſte.

Take the brawnes and the wings of Capons and Chickens after they haue beene roſted, and pull away the skin, then ſhred them with • e Mutten ſuet very ſmall, then ſeaſon it with Cloues, Mace, Cinamon, Sugar and Salt ▪ then put to Ra • ſins of the Sunne & Currants, and ſlic't Dates, and Orenge pills, and being well mixt together, put it into ſmall coffins made for the purpoſe, and ſtrow on the top of them good ſtore of Carraway-Comfets: then couer them, and bake them with a gentle heate, and theſe Chewets you may alſo make of roſted Veale, ſeaſoned as before ſhewed, and of all parts the loyne is the beſt.

Take a Legge of Mutton, and cut the beſt of the fleſh from the bone, and parboyle it well: then put to it three pound of the beſt Mutton ſuet, and ſhred it very ſmall: then ſpread it abroad, and ſeaſon it with Pepper and Salt, Cloues and Mace: then put in good ſtore of Currants, great Raiſins and Prunes cleane waſht and pickt, a few Dates ſlic't, and ſome Orenge pills ſl • c't: then being all well mixt together, put it into a coffin, or into diuers coffins, and ſo bake them: and when they are ſerued vp open the liddes, and ſtrow ſtore of Sugar on the top of the meate, and vpon the lid. And in this ſort you may alſo bake Beefe or Veale; onely the Beefe would not bee parboyld, and the Veale will aske a double quantity of Suet.

Take of the faireſt and beſt Pippins, and pare there, and make a hole in the top of them; then pricke in each hole a Cloue or two, then put them into the coffin, then breake in whole ſtickes of Cinamon, and ſlices of Orenge pills and Dates, and on the top of euery Pippin a little peece of ſweete butter: then fill the coffin, and couer the Pippins ouer with Sugar; then cloſe vp the pie, and bake it, as you bake pies of the like nature, and when it is bak't, annoint the lidde ouer with ſtore of ſweete butter, and then ſtrow Sugar vpon it a good thickneſſe, and ſet it into the ouen againe for a little ſpace, as whileſt the meate is in diſhing vp, and then ſerue it.

Take of the faireſt and beſt Wardens, and pare them, and take out the hard chores on the top, and cut the ſharpe ends at the bottome flat; then boyle them in White-wine and Sugar, vntill the ſirrup grow thicke: then take the Wardens, from the ſirrup into a cleane diſh, and let them coole; then ſet them into the coffin, and prick Cloues in the tops, with whole ſticks of Cinamon, and great ſtore of Sugar, as for Pippins, then couer it, and onely reſerue a vent-hole, ſo ſet it in the ouen and bake it: when it is bak't, draw it forth, and take the firſt ſirrup in which the Wardens were boyld, and taſte it, and if it be not ſweet enough, then put in more Sugar and ſome Roſe water, and boyle it againe a little, then powre it in at the vent-hole, & ſhake the pie well; then take ſweet butter and Roſe water melted, and with it annoint the pie-lid all ouer, and then ſtrow vpon it ſtore of Sugar, and ſo ſet it into the ouen againe a little ſpace, and then ſerue it vp. And in this manner you may alſo bake Quinces.

Take the beſt and ſweeteſt worte, and put to it good ſtore of Sugar; then pate and chore the Quinces cleane▪ and put them therein, and boyle them till they grow tender: then take out the Quinces and let them coole, & let the pickle in which they were boild, ſtand to coole alſo; then ſtraine it through a raunge or ſiue, then put the Quinces into a ſweete earthen pot, then powre the p • ck • e or ſirrup vnto them, ſo as all the Quinces may be quite couered all ouer; then ſtop vp the pot cloſe, and let it in a dry place, and once in ſixe or ſeuen weeks looke vnto it; and if you ſee it ſhrinke, or doe begin to hoare or mould▪ then powre out the pickle or ſirrup, and renewing it, boyle it ouer againe, and as before put it to the Qu • nc • s being cold and thus you may preſerue them for the vſe of baking, or otherwiſe all the yeere.

Take P • ppins of the faireſt, and p • re them, and then diuide them • uſt in the h • lfes, and take out the chores cleane: then hauing • old out the coffin flat, and raiſd vp a ſmall verdge of an inch, or more high, lay in the Pippins with the hollow ſide downeward, as cloſe one to another as may be: then lay here and there a cloue, and here and there a whole ſticke of Sinamon, and a little bit of butter: then couer all cleane ouer with Sugar, and ſo couer the coffin, and bake it according to the manner of Tarts; and when it is bak • t, then draw it out, and hauing boyled Butter and roſe water together, anoynt all the lid ouer therewith, and then ſcrape or ſtrow on it good ſtore of Sugar, and ſo ſet it in the ouen againe, and after ſerue it vp.

Take greene Apples from the tree, and codle them in ſca • ding water wi • hout breaking; then pill the thinne skin from them, and ſo diuide them in halfes, and cut out the chores, and ſo lay them into the coffin, and doe in euery thing as you did in the Pippin-tart; and before you couer it when the Sugar is caſt in, ſee you ſprinkle vpon a good ſtore of Roſe-water, then cloſe it, and doe as before ſhewed.

Take Codlins as before ſaid, and pill them and diuide them in halfes, and chore them, and lay a leare thereof in the bottome of the pie: then ſcatter here and there a cloue, and here and there a peece of whole Sinamon; then couer them all ouer with Sugar, then lay another leare of Codlins, and doe as beforeſaid, and ſo another, till the coffin be all filled; then couer all with Sugar, and here and there a Cloue and a Cinamon-ſticke, and if you will a ſlic't Orange pill and a Date; then couer it, and bake it as the pies of that nature: when it is bak't, draw it out of the ouen, and take of the thickeſt and beſt Creame with good ſtore of Sugar, and giue it one boile or two on the fire: then open the pie, and put the Creame therein, and maſh the Codlins all about; then couer it, and hauing trimd the lidde (as was before ſhewed in the like pies and tarts) ſet it into the ouen againe for halfe an houre, and ſo ſerue it forth.

Take the faireſt Cherries you can get, and pick them cleane from leaues and ſtalkes: then ſpread out your coffin as for your Pippin-tart, and couer the bottome with Sugar: then couer the Sugar all ouer with Cherries, then couer thoſe Cherries with Sugar, ſome ſticks of Cinamon, and here and there a Cloue: then lay in more cherries, and ſo more Sugar, Cinamon and cloues, till the coffin be filled vp: then couer it, and bake it in all points as the codling and pipping tart, and ſo ſerue it: and in the ſame manner you may make Tarts of Gooſeberries, Strawberries, Rasberries, Bi • berries, or any other Berrie whatſoeuer.

Take Rice that is cleane picked, and boyle it in ſweet Creame, till it be very ſoft: then let it ſtand and coole, and put into it good ſtore of Cinamon and Sugar, and the yelkes of a couple of Egges and ſome Currants, ſtir and beate all well together▪ then hauing made the coffin in the manner before ſaid for other tarts, put the Rice therein, and ſpread it all ouer the coffin: then breake many little bits of ſweet butter vpon it all ouer, and ſcrape ſome ſugar ouer it alſo, then couer the tart, and bake it, and trim it in all points, as hath bene before ſhewed, and ſo ſerue it vp.

Take the Kidneys of veale after it hath bene well roſted, and is cold: then ſhred it as fine as is poſſible; then take a • l ſorts of ſweete Pot hearbs, or fearſing hearbs, which haue no bitter or ſtrong taſte, and chop them as ſmall as may be, and putting the veale into a large diſh, put the hearbs vnto it, and good ſtore of cleane waſht Currants, Sugar, Cinamon, the yelkes of foure egges, a little ſweete creame warmd, and the fine grated crummes of a halfe penny loafe and ſalt, and mixe all exceeding well together: then take a deepe pewter diſh, and in it lay your paſte very thin rowld out, which paſte you muſt mingle thus: Take of the fineſt wheat-flower a quart, and a quarter ſo much ſugar, and a little cinamon; then breake into it a couple of egges, then take ſweet creame and butter melted on the fire, and with it kne • d the paſte, and as was before ſayd, hauing ſpread butter all about the diſhes ſides: then put in the veale, n • breake peeces of ſweete butter vpon it, and ſcrape ſugar ouer it; then rowle out another paſte reaſonable • hicke, and with it couer the diſh all ouer, cloſing the two paſts with the beaten whites of egges very faſt together: then with your knife cut the lid into diuerſe pretty workes according to your fancy: then let it in the Ouen and bake it with pies and tarts of like nature: when it is back't, draw it, and trim the lid with ſugar, as hath bene ſhewed in tarts, and ſo ſerue it vp in your ſecond courſes.

Take of the faireſt damaske pruens you can get, and put them in a cleane pipkin with faire water, Sugar, vnbruiſed Cinamon, and a braunch or two of Roſemary, and if you haue bread to bake, ſtew them in the ouen with your bread: if otherwiſe, ſtew them on the fire: when they are ſtewed, then bruiſe them all to maſh in their ſirrop, and ſtrayne them into a cleane diſh; then boyle it ouer againe with Sugar, Cinamon, and Roſe water, till it be as thicke as Marmalad: then ſet it to coole, then make a reaſonable tuffe paſte with fine flower, Water, and a little butter, and rowle it out very thinne: then hauing patternes of paper cut into diuerſe proportions, as Beaſtes, Birdes, armes, Knots, Flowers, and ſuch like: Lay the patternes on the paſte, and ſo cut them accordingly: then with your fingers pinch vpp the edges of the paſte, and ſet the worke in good proportion: then pricke it well all ouer for riſing, and ſet it on a cleane ſheete of large paper, and ſo ſet it into the Ouen, and bake it hard; then drawe it, and ſet it by to coole: and thus you may doe by a whole Ouen full at one time, as your occaſion of expence is: then againſt the time of ſeruice comes, take off the confection of pruens before rehearſed, and with your Knife, or a ſpoone fill the coffin according to the thickneſſe of the verge; then ſtrow it ouer all with Caraway comfets, and pricke long comfets vpright in it, and ſo taking the paper from the bottome, ſerue it on a plate in a diſh or charger, according to the bigneſſe of the tart, and at the ſecond courſe, and this tart carrieth the colour blacke.

Take apples and pare them, and ſlice them thin from the chore into a pipkin with White wine, good ſtore of Sugar, Cinamon, a few Saunders and Roſewater, and boyle it till it be thicke; then coole it, and ſtraine it, and beate it very well together with a ſpoone: then put it into the coffin as you did the Pruen tart, and adorne it alſo in the ſame manner, and this tart you may fill thicker or thinner, as you pleaſe to raiſe the edge of the coffin, and it carrieth the colour red.

Take good ſtore of Spinage, and boyle it in a Pipkin with White-wine till it be very ſoft as pap: then take it and ſtraine it well into a pewter diſh, not leauing any part vnſtrained: then put to it Roſewater, great ſtore of ſugar and cynamon, and boyle it till it be as thicke as Marmalad, then let it coole, and after fi • l your coffin, and adorne it, and ſerue it in all points as you did your pruen-tart, and this carrieth the colour greene.

Take the yelkes of egs, and breake away the filmes, and beate th • m well with a little creame: then take of the ſweeteſt a • d thickeſt creame that can be got, and ſet it on the fire in a cleane skillet, and put into it ſugar, cinamon and roſe water, and then boyle it well: when it is boy • d, and ſtill boyling, ſtirre it well, and as you ſtirre it put in th • egs, and ſo boyle it ti • l it curdle; then take i • f • om the fire and put it into a ſtrainer, and firſt let the thin whay runne away into a by diſh, then ſtraine the reſt very well, and beate it well with a ſpoo • e, and ſo put it into the tart coffin, and adorne it as you did your pruen tart, and ſo ſerue it: this carrieth the colour yellow

Take the whites of egs and beate them with roſe-water, and a little ſweet creame: then ſet on the fire good thicke ſweete c • eame, and put into it ſugar, cynamon, roſe-water, and boyle it well, and as it boyles ſtirre it exceedingly, and in the ſtirring put in the whites of egs; then bo • le i • till it cur • le, and after doe in al • things as you did to the yellow tart; and this carrieth the colour white, and it is a very pure white, and therefore would be adorned with red carraway comfets, and as this to with blaunched almonds like white tarts and full as pure. Now you may (if you pleaſe) put all theſe ſeuerall colours, and ſeuerall ſtuffes into one tart, as thus: If the tart be in the proportion of a beaſt, the body may be of one colour, the eyes of another, the teeth of an other, and the tallents of another: and ſo of birds, the body of one colour, the eyes another, the legges of an other, and euery feather in the wings of a ſeuerall colour according to fancy: and ſo likewiſe in armes, the field of one colour, the charge of another, according to the forme of the Coat-armour; as for the mantles, trailes and deuices about armes, they may be ſet out with ſeuerall colours of preſerues, conſerues, marmalads, and goodinyakes, as you ſhall find occaſion or inuention, and ſo likewiſe of knots, one trayle of one colour, and another of another, and ſo of as many as you pleaſe.

Take ſorrell, ſpinage, parſley, and boyle them in water till they be very ſoft as pap, then take them vp, and preſſe the water cleane from them, then take good ſtore of yelkes of egges boild very hard, and chopping them with the hearbes exceeding ſmall, then put in good ſtore of currants, ſugar and cynamon, and ſtirre all well together; then put them into a deepe tart coffin with good ſtore of ſweete butter▪ and couer it; and bake it like a pippin tart, and adorne the lid after the baking in that manner alſo, and ſo ſerue it vp.

Take the beſt and ſweeteſt creame, and boile it with good ſtore of Sugar, and Cinamon, and a little roſe-water, then take it from the fire and put into it cleane pickt ryce, but not ſo much as to make it thicke, & let it ſteepe therein till it be cold; then put in the yelks of ſixe egs, & two whites, Currants, Sugar, Sinamon, and Roſe-water, and Salt, then put it into a pan, or pot, as 〈…〉 it were a cuſtard; and ſo bake it and ſerue it in the pot it is baked in, trimming the top with ſugar or comfets.

To make paſte of Quinces: firſt boile your Quinces whole and when they are ſoft, pare them and cut the Quince from the core; then take the fineſt ſugar you can get finely beaten and ſea • ſed, and put in a little Roſe-water and boi • e it together ti • l it be thicke; then pu • in the cut Quinces and ſo boyle them together t • ll it be ſt • ffe enough to mold, and when it is cold, then role it and print it; a pound of Quinces will take a pound of ſugar, or neere thereabouts.

To make thin Quince cakes, take your quince when it is boyled ſoft as before ſaid, and dry it vpon a Pewter plate with ſoft heate, & be ouer ſtirring of it with a ſlice till it be hard; then take ſearced ſugar quantity for quantit • & ſtrow it into the quince, as you beate it in a woodden or ſtone morter: and ſo role them thin & print them.

To preſerue Quinces: firſt pare your Quinces and take out the cores and boile the cores and parings all together in faire water, and when they beginne to be ſoft, take them out and ſtraine your liquor, and put the waight of your Quinces in ſugar, and boile the Quinces in the ſirrup till they be tender: then take them vp and boile your ſirrup till it be thicke: If you will haue your Quinces red, couer them in the boiling, and if you will haue them white doe not couer them.

To make the beſt Ielly, take calues feet and waſh them and ſcald off the haire as cleane as you can get it: then ſplit them and take out the fat and lay them in water, & ſhift them: then b • ile them in faire water vntill it will ielly, which you ſhall know by now and then cooling a ſpoonefull of the broth: when it will ielly then ſtraine it, and when it is cold then put in a pint of Sacke and whole Cinamon and Ginger ſlic't, and Sugar and a little Roſe-water, and boyle all well together againe:

Then beate the white of an egge an put it into it, and let it haue one boile more: then put in a branch of Roſemary into the bottome of your ielly bag, and let it runne through once or twice, and if you will haue it coloured, then put in a little Townefall. Alſo if you want calues feete you may make as good Ielly if you take the like quantity of Iſingglaſſe, and ſo vſe no calues feete at all.

To make the beſt L • ach, take Iſingglaſſe and lay it two houres in water, and ſhift it and boyle it in faire water and let it coole: Then take Almonds and lay them in cold water till they will blaunch: And then ſtampe them and put to new milke, and ſtrayne them and put in whole Mace and Ginger ſlic't, and boile them till it taſte well of the ſp • ce: then put in your Iſingglaſſe and ſugar, and a little Roſe-water: and then let them all runne through a ſtrainer.

To make red Marmelade of Quinces: take a pound of Quinces and cut them in halfes, and take out the co • es and pare them: then take a pound of Sugar and a quart of faire water and put them all into a pan, and let them boile with a ſoft fire, and ſometimes turne them and keepe them couered with a Pewter diſh, ſo that the ſt • mme or aire may c • me a little out: the longer they are in boyling the better colour they will haue: and when they be ſoft take a knife and cut them croſſe vpon the top, it will make the ſirrup goe through that they may be all of a like colour: then ſet a little of your ſirrop to coole, and when it beginneth to be thicke then breake your quinces with a ſlice or a ſpoone ſo ſmall as you can in the pan, and then ſtrow a little fine ſugar in your boxes bottome, and ſo put it vp.

To make white Marmalade you muſt in all points vſe your quinces as is before ſaid; only you muſt take but a pint of water to a pound of quinces, and a pound of ſugar, and boile them as faſt as you can, and couer them not at all.

To make Iumbals more fine and curious then the former, and neerer to the taſte of the Macaroone: take a pound of ſugar beate it fine, then take as much fine wheat flower and mixe them together, then take two whites and one yolke of an egge, halfe a quarter of a pound of blaunched Almonds; then beate them very fine altogether with halfe a diſh of ſweet butter, and a ſpoonefull of Roſe water, and ſo worke it with a little Creame till it come to a very ſtiffe paſte, then rou • e them forth as you pleaſe: And hereto you ſhall alſo, if you pleaſe, adde a few dried Aniſeeds finely rubbed and ſtrewed into the paſte, and alſo Coriander ſeed.

To make drie ſugar Leache, blaunch your Almonds and beate them with a little roſe water and the white of one egge, and you muſt beate it with a great deale of ſugar, and worke it as you would worke a peece of paſte: then roule it and print it as you did other things, onely be ſure to ſtrew ſugar in the print for feare of cleaning too.

To make Leache Lumbard, take halfe a pound of blaunched Almonds, two ounces of Cinamon beaten and ſearſed, halfe a pound of ſugar, then beate your Almonds, and ſtrewe in your ſugar and cynamon till it come to a paſte, then roule it and print it, as aforeſayd.

To make an excelle • t freſh cheeſe, take a p • t • le of Milke as it comes from the Cow, and a pint of creame: then take a ſpoonefull of runnet or earning, and put it vnto it, and let it ſtand two houres: then ſtirre it vp, and put it into a fine cloth, and let the whay draine from it: then put it into a bowle, and take the yelke of an egge, a ſpoonefull of Roſe-water, and bray them together with a very little ſalt, with Sugar and Nutmegs; and when all theſe are brayed together and ſearſt, m • xe it with the curd, and then put it into a cheeſe fat with a very fine cloth.

To make courſe Ginger bread, take a quart of Hony and ſet it on the coales and refine it: then take a penny-worth of Ginger, as much Pepper, as much Licoras, and a quarter of a pound of Aniſeeds, and a peny worth of Saunders: All theſe muſt be beaten and ſearſed, and ſo put into the hony: then put in a quarter of a pint of Claret wine or old ale, then take three peny Manchets finely grated and ſtrow it amongſt the reſt, and ſtirre it till it come to a ſtiffe paſte, and then make it into cakes and dry them gently.

To make ordinary Quince cakes, take a good peece of a preſerued Quince, and beate in a morter, and worke it vp into a very ſtiffe paſte wi • h fine ſearſt Sugar▪ then print it and drie them gently.

To make moſt Artificiall Cinamon ſtickes, take an ounce of Cinamon and pound it, and halfe a pound of Sugar; then take ſome gumme Dragon and put it in ſteepe in Roſewater, then take thereof to the quantity of a haſell nut, and worke it out and print it, and roule it in forme of a Cinamon ſticke.

To make Wormewood water take two gallons of good Ale, a pound of Aniſeedes, halfe a pound of 〈1 page duplicate〉 〈1 page duplicate〉 Licoras, and beate them very fine; And then take two good handfuls of the crops of wormewood, and put them into the Ale and let them ſtand all night, and then diſtill them in a limbeck with a moderate fire.

To make ſweete water of the beſt kind, take a thouſand damaske roſes, two good handfuls of Lauendar tops, a three peny waight of mace, two ounces of cloues bruiſed, a quart of running water: put a little water into the bottome of an earthen pot, and then put in your Roſes and Lauender with the ſpices by little and little, and in the putting in alwaies knead them downe with your fiſt, and ſo continue it vntill you haue wrought vp all your Roſes and Lauender, and in the working betweene put in alwaies a little of your water; then ſtop your pot cloſe, and let it ſtand foure daies, in which time euery morning and euening put in your hand, and pull from the bottome of your pot the ſaide Roſes, working it for a time: and then diſtill it, and hang in the glaſſe of water a graine or two of Muske wrapt in a pe • ce of Sarcenet or fine cloath.

Others to make ſweete water, take of Ireos two ounces, of Calamus halfe an ounce, of Cipreſſe rootes halfe an ounce, of yellow Saunders nine drams, of Cloues bruiſed one ounce, of Beniamin one ounce, of Storax and Calamint one ounce▪ and of Muske twelfe graines, and infuſing all theſe in Roſe-water diſtill it.

To m • ke an exce • lent Date-Leach, take Dates, and take out the ſtone • and the wh • te rinde, and beate them with Suga • , Cinamon and Ginger very finely then work it as you would worke a peece of paſte, and then print them as you pleaſe,

To make excellent ſpice Cakes, take halfe a pecke of very fine Wheat-flower, take almoſt one pound of ſweet butter, and ſome good milke and creame mixt together, ſet it on the fire, and put in your butter, and a good deale of ſugar, and let it melt together: then ſtraine Saffron into your milke a good quantity: then take ſeuen or eight ſpoonefulls of good Ale-ba • me, and eight egges with two yelkes and mixe them together, then put your milke to it when it is ſomewhat cold, and into your flower put ſalt, Aniſeedes bruiſed, Cloues and Mace, and a good deale of Cinamon: then worke all together good and ſtiffe, that you need not worke in any flower after: then put in a little roſewater cold, then rub it well in the thing you knead it in, and worke it throughly: if it be not ſweete enough, ſcrape in a little more ſugar, and pull it all in peeces, and hurle in a good quantity of Currants, and ſo worke all together againe, and bake your Cake as you ſee cauſe in a gentle warme ouen.

To make a very good Banbury Cake, take foure pounds of Currants, & waſh and pick them very cleane, and drie them in a cloth: then take three egges and put away one yelke, and beate them, and ſtrayne them with harme, putting thereto Cloues, Mace, Cinamon and Nutmegges, then take a pint of Creame, and as much mornings milke and ſet it on the fire till the cold be taken away; then take flower and put in good ſtore of cold butter and ſugar, then put in your egges, ba • me and meale and worke them all together an houre or more; then ſaue a part of the p • ſte, & the reſt breake in p • eces and worke in your Currants; which done, mold your Cake of what quantity you pleaſe; and then with that paſte which hath not any Currants coue • it very thinne both vnderneath and a loſt. And ſo bake it according to the the bigneſſe.

To make the beſt March pane, take the beſt Iordan Almonds and blaunch them in warme water, then put them into a ſtone-morter, and with a wooden peſtell beate them to pappe, then take of the fineſt refined ſugar well ſearſt, and with it Damaske Roſe-water, beate it to a good ſtiffe paſte, allowing almoſt to euery Iordan Amlond three ſpoonefull of ſugar; then when it is brought thus to a paſte, lay it vpon a faire table, and ſtrowing ſearſt ſugar vnder it, mould it like leauen, then with a roling pin role it forth, and lay it vpon wafers waſht with Roſe-water; then pinch it about the ſides, and put it into what forme you pleaſe; then ſtrow ſearſt ſugar all ouer it; which done, waſh it ouer with Roſe-water and ſugar mixt together, for that will make the Ice; then adorne it with Comfets, guilding, or whatſoeuer deuices you pleaſe, and ſo ſet it into a hot ſtoue, and there bake it criſpie, and ſo ſerue it forth. Some vſe to mixe with the paſte Cinamon and Ginger finely ſearſt, but I referre that to your particular taſte.

To make paſte of Genoa, you ſhall take Quinces after they haue beene boyled ſoft, and beate them in a morter with refined Sugar, Cinamon and Ginger finely ſearſt, and Damaske roſe water till it come to a ſtiffe paſte; and role it forth and print it, and ſo bake it in a ſtoue; and in this ſort you may make paſte of Peares, Apples, Wardens, Plummes of all kinds, Cherries, Barberries; or what other fruit you pleaſe.

Take a pottle of fine flower, and a pound of Sugar, a little Mace, and good ſtore of water to mingle the flower into a ſtifle paſte, and a good ſeaſon of ſalt, and ſo knead it, and role out the cake thinne and bake them on papers.

Take a quarter of a pound of fine ſugar well beaten, and as much flower finely boulted, with a quantity of Aniſeedes a little bruiſed, and mingle all together; then take two egges and beate them very well, whites and all; then put in the mingled ſtuffe aforeſaid, and beate all together a good while, then put it into a mould, wiping the bottome euer firſt with butter to make it come out eaſily, and in the baking turne it once or twice as you ſhall haue occaſion, and ſo ſerue it whole, or in ſlices at your pleaſure.

Take ſweete Apples and ſtampe them as you doe for Cider, then preſſe them through a bagge as you doe veriuyce; then put it into a ferkin wherein you will keepe your Quinces, and then gather your Quinces, and wipe them cleane, and neither chore them nor pare them, but onely take the blacks from the tops, and ſo put them into the ferkin of Cider, and therein you may keepe them all the yeere very faire, and take them not out of the liquor, but as you are ready to vſe them, whether it be for pies, ar any other purpoſe, and then pare them, and chore them as you thinke good.

Take Quinces and wipe them very cleane, and then chore them, and as you chore them, put the chores ſtraight into faire water, and let the chores and the water boyle; when the water boyleth, put in the Quinces vnpared, and let them boyle till they be tender, and then take them out and pare them, and euer as you pare them, put them ſtraight into ſugar finely beaten: then take the water they were ſodden in, & ſtraine it through a faire cloth, and take as much of the ſame water as you thinke will make ſirrup enough for the Quinces, and put in ſome of your ſugar and let it boile a while, and then put in your Quinces, and let them boyle a while, and turne them, and caſt a good deale of ſugar vpon them; they muſt ſeeth a pace, and euer as you turne them, couer them ſtill with ſugar, till you haue beſtowed all your ſugar; and when you thinke that your Quinces are tender enough, take them forth, and if your ſirrup be not ſtiffe enough, you may ſeeth it againe after the Quinces are forth. To euery pound of Quinces you muſt take more then a pound of ſugar: for the more ſugar you take, the fairer your Quinces will bee, and the better and longer they will be precrued.

Take all the parings of your Quinces that you make your Conſerue withall, and three or foure other Quinces, and cut them in peeces, and boile the ſame parings, and the other peeces in two or three gallonds of water, and ſo let them boyle till all the ſtrength bee ſodden out of the ſayd Quinces and parings, and if any skumme ariſe whileſt it boyles, take it away: then let the ſayd water runne thorough a ſtrayner into a faire veſſell, and ſet it on the fire againe, and take your Quinces that you will keepe, and wipe them cleane, and cut off the vttermoſt part of the ſaid Quinces, and picke out the kernels and chores as cleane as you can, and put them into the ſaid liquor, and ſo let them boile till they be a little ſoft, and then take them from the fire, and let them ſtand till they be cold▪ then take a little barrell, and put into the ſaid barrell, the water that your Quinces be ſodden in; then take vp your Quinces with a ſadle, and put them into your barrell, and ſtop your barrell cloſe that no ayre come into them, till you haue fit occaſion to vſe them; and bee ſure to take ſuch Quinces as are neither bruiſed nor rotten.

Take of the beſt ſugar, and when it is beaten ſearſe it very fine, and of the beſt Ginger and Cinamon▪ then take a little Gum-dragon and lay it in roſewater all night, then poure the water from it, and put the ſame with a little White of an Egge well beaten into a braſſe morter, the Sugar, Ginger, Cinamon and all together, and beate them together till you may worke it like paſt; then take it and driue it forth into Cakes, and print them, and lay them before the fire, or in a very warme Stoue to bake. Or otherwiſe, take Sugar and Ginger (as is before ſaid) Cinamon and Gum-dragon excepted, in ſtead whereof, take onely the Whites of Eggs and ſo doe as was before ſhewed you.

Take Curds, the paring of Lemons, of Oranges or Pouncithrous, or indeede any halfe-ripe greene fruite, and boyle them till they be tender in ſweete Worte; then make a ſirrop in this ſort: take three pound of Sugar, and the whites of foure Eggs, and a gallon of water, then ſwinge and beate the water and the Eggs together; and then put in your Sugar, and ſet it on the fire, and let it haue an eaſier fire, and ſo let it boyle ſixe or ſeuen walmes, and then ſtraine it thorow a cloth, and let it ſeeth againe till it fall from the ſpoone, and then put it into the rindes or fruits.

Diſſolue Sugar, or ſugar candy in Roſe-water, boile it to an height, put in your rootes, fruits or flowers, the ſirrop being cold, then reſt a little, after take them out and boyle the ſirrop againe, then put in more roots, &c. then boile the ſirrop the third time to an hardneſſe, putting in more ſugar but not Roſe-water, put in the roots, &c. the ſirrop being cold and let them ſtand till they candie.

Thus hauing ſhewed you how to Preſerue, Conſerue, candy, and make paſts of all kinds, in which foure heads conſiſts the whole art of banqueting diſhes; I will now proceed to the ordering or ſetting foorth of a banquet, where in you ſhall obſerue, that March-panes haue the firſt place, the middle place, and laſt place: your preſerued fruites ſhall be diſht vp firſt, your paſts next, your wet ſuckets after them, then your dried ſuckets, then your Marmelades and Goodiniakes, then your comfets of all kinds; Next, your peares, apples, wardens back't, raw or roaſted, and your Oranges and Leamons ſliced; and laſtly your Wafer-cakes. Thus you ſhall order them in the cloſet: but when they goe to the table, you ſhall firſt ſend foorth a diſh made for ſhew onely, as Beaſt, Bird, Fiſh, Fowle, according to inuention: then your Marchpane, then preſerued Fruite, then a Paſte, then a wet ſucket, then a dry ſucket, Marmelade, comfets, apples, peares, wardens, oranges and lemmons ſliced; and then wafers, and another diſh of preſerued fruites, and ſo conſequently all the reſt before: no two diſhes of one kind going or ſtanding together, and this will not onely appeare delicate to the eye, but inuite the appetite with the much variety thereof.

Now we haue drawne our Houſe-wife into theſe ſeuerall Knowledges of Cookery, in as much as in her is contained all the inward offices of houſhold, we will proceede to declare the manner of ſeruing and ſetting forth of meate for a great Feaſt, and from it deriue meaner, making a due proportion of all things: for what auailes it our good Houſe-wife to bee neuer ſo skilfull in the parts of cookery, if ſhe want skill to marſhall the diſhes, and ſet euery one in his due place, giuing precedency according to faſhion and cuſtome: It is like to a Fencer leading a band of men in rout, who knowes the vſe of the weapon, but not how to put men in order. It is then to be vnderſtood, that it is the office of the clerke of the Kitchin (whoſe place our Houſe-wife muſt many times ſupply) to order the meate at the Dreſſer, and deliuer it vnto the Sewer, who is to deliuer it to the Gentlemen and Yeomen-waiters to beare to the table. Now becauſe wee allow no Offices but our Houſe-wife, to whom we onely ſpeake in this Booke, ſhee ſhall firſt marſhall her ſallets, deliuering the grand ſallet firſt, which is euermore compound: then greene Sallets, then boyld ſallets, then ſome ſmaller compound ſallets. Next vnto ſallets ſhe ſhall deliuer foorth all her fricaſes, the ſimple firſt, as collops, raſhers, and ſuch like: then compound fricaſes, after them all her boyld meats in their degree, as ſimple broths, ſtewd-broth, and the boylings of ſundry fowles. Next them all ſorts of roſt-meates, of which the greateſt firſt, as chine of Beefe, or ſurloyne, the gigget or Legges of Mutton, Gooſe, Swan, Veale, Pig, Capon, and ſuch like. Then bak't-meates, the hot firſt, as Fallow-deere in Paſty, Chicken, or Calues foote-pie and Douſet. Then cold bak't meates, Pheaſant, Partidges, Turkie, Gooſe, Woodcocke, and ſuch like. Then laſtly, Carbonados both ſimple and compound. And being thus marſhald from the Dreſſer, the Sewer vpon the placing them on the table, ſhall not ſet them downe as he receiued them, but ſetting the Sallets extrauagantly about the table, mixe the Fricaſes about them; then the boild meates amongſt the Fricaſes, roſt meates amongſt the boild, bak't meates amongſt the roſt, and Carbonados amongſt the bak't; ſo that before euery trencher may ſtand a Sallet, a Fricaſe, a Boild meate, a Roſt meate, a Bak't meat, and a Carbonado, which will both giue a moſt comely beauty to the table, and very great contentment to the Gueſſe. So likewiſe in the ſecond courſe ſhe ſhall firſt preferre the leſſer wild-fowle, as Mallard, Tayle, Snipe, Plouer, Wood-cocke, and ſuch like: then the leſſer land-fowle; as Chicken, Pigeons, Partridge, Raile, Turky, Chickens, young Pea • hens, and ſuch like.

Then the greater wild-fowle; as Bitter, Hearne, Shoueler, Crane, Buſtard, and ſuch like. Then the greater land fowles; as Peacocks, Pheaſant, Puets, Gulles, and ſuch like. Then hot bak't-meates; as Marrybone-pie, Quince-pie, Florentine, and Tarts.

Then cold bak't meates, as Red deere, Hare-pie, Gammon of Bacon-pie, wild B • r • , Roe-pie, and ſuch like, and theſe alſo ſhall bee marſhald at the Table, as the firſt courſe not one kind all together, but each ſeuerall ſort mixt together, as a leſſer wild-fowle and a leſſer land-fowle; a great wild-fowle, and a great land-fowle; a hot bak't meate and a cold: and for made diſhes and Quelquechoſes, which relie on the inuention of the Cooke, they are to bee thruſt in into euery place that is emptie, and ſo ſprinkled ouer all the table: and this is the beſt method for the extraordinary great feaſts of Princes. But in caſe it be for much more humble meanes, then leſſe care and fewer diſhes may diſcharge it: yet before I proceede to that lower rate, you ſhall vnderſtand, that in theſe great Feaſts of Princes, though I haue mentioned nothing but fleſh, yet is not fifh to be exempted; for it is a beauty and an honour vnto euery Feaſt, and is to be placed amongſt all the ſeuerall ſeruices, as thus; as amongſt your Sallets all ſorts of ſouſed-fiſh that liues in the freſh water; amongſt your Fricaſes all manner of fride-fiſh; amongſt your boyld-meates, all fiſh in broaths; amongſt your roſt-meates, all fiſh ſerued hot, but drie; amongſt the bak't meates, and ſea-fiſh that is ſouſt, as Sturgion and the like; and amongſt your Carbonados, fiſh that is broild. As for your ſecond courſe, to it belongeth all manner of ſhell fiſh, either in the ſhell, or without; the hot to goe vp with the hot meate, and the cold with the cold.

And thus ſhall the Feaſt bee royall, and the ſeruice worthy.

Now for a more humble Feaſt, or an ordinary proportion which any good man may keepe in his family for the entertainment of his true and worthy friends, it muſt hold limitation with his prouiſion, and the ſeaſon of the yeere: for Summer affords what Winter wantes, & Winter is maſter of that which Summer can but with difficulty haue: it is good then for him that intends to feaſt, to ſet downe the full number of his full diſhes, that is, diſhes of meate that are of ſubſtance, and not emptie or for ſhew; and of theſe ſixteene is a good proportion for one courſe vnto one meſſe, as thus for example, Firſt, a ſhield of Brawne with muſtard: Secondly, a boyld capon; Thirdly, a boyld peece of Beefe: Fourthly, a chine of beefe roſted: Fiftly, a neates tongue roſted: Sixtly, a Pigge roſted: Seuenthly, chewets back't; Eightly, a gooſe roſted: Ninethly, a ſwan roſted: Tenthly, a turkey roſted; the eleuenth, a haunch of veniſon roſted; the twelfth, a paſty of veniſon; the thirteenth, a Kid with a pudding in the belly; the fourteenth, an oliue pye; the fifteenth, a couple of capons; the ſixteenth, a cuſtard or douſets. Now to theſe full diſhes may be added in ſallets, fricaſes, quelquechoſes, and deuiſed paſte, as many diſhes more, which make the full ſeruice no leſſe then two and thirty diſhes, which is as much as can conueniently ſtand on one table, and in one meſſe: and after this manner you may proportion both your ſecond and third courſe, holding fulneſſe in one halfe of the diſhes, and ſhew in the other, which will be both frugall in the ſpendor, contentment to the gueſt, and much pleaſure and delight to the beholders. And thus much touching the ordering of great feaſts and ordinary contentments.

To begin then with the firſt knowledge of our Malſter, it conſiſteth in the election and choiſe of graine fit to make M • lton, of which there are indeed • iuely but two kinds, that is to ſay, Ba • ley, which is of all other the moſt excellent for this purpoſe; and Oates, which when Barly is ſcant or wanting, maketh alſo a good and ſufficient Malt: and though the drinke which is drawne from it be neither ſo much in the quantity, ſo ſtrong in the ſubſtance, nor yet ſo pleaſant in the taſte, yet is the drinke very good and tolerable, and nouriſhing enough for any reaſonable creature. Now I doe not deny, but there may be made Malt of Wheate, Peaſe, Lupins, Fetches & ſuch like, yet it is with vs of no retained cuſtome, nor is the drinke ſimply drawne or ex • racted from thoſe graines, either wholſome or pleaſant, but ſtrong and fulſome; therefore I thinke it not fit to ſpend any time in treating of the ſame. To ſpeake then of the election of Barly, you ſhall vnderſtand that there be diuers kinds thereof, according to the alteration of ſoy • es, ſome being big, ſome little, ſome full, ſome empty, ſome white, ſome browne, and ſome yellow: but I will reduce all theſe into three kinds, that is, into the Clay Barly, the Sand-Barly, and the Barly which groweth on t • e mixt ſoyle. Now the beſt Barly to make Malt on, both for yeelding the greateſt quantity of matter, and making the ſtrongeſt, beſt and moſt wholeſome drinke, is the Clay-Barly well dreſt, being cleane Corne of it ſelfe, without weede o • Oates, white of colour, full in ſubſtance, and ſweete in taſte: that which groweth on the mixt grounds is the next; for though it be ſubiect to ſome Oates and ſome Weedes: yet being painefully and carefully dreſt, it is a faire and a bould come, great and full; and though ſomewhat browner then the former, yet it is of a faire and cleane complexion. The laſt and worſt graine for this purpoſe is the Sand-Barly, for although it be ſeldome or neuer mixt with Oates, yet if the ti • lage be not painefully and cunning • y handled, it is much ſubiect to weedes of diuerſe kinds, as tares, fetches, and ſuch like, which drinke vp the liquor in the brewing, and make the yeeld or quantity thereof very little and vnprofitable: beſides, the graine naturally of it ſelfe hath a yellow, withered, empty huske, thicke and vnfurniſhed of meale, ſo that the drinke drawne from it can neither be ſo much, ſo ſtrong, ſo good, nor ſo pleaſant; ſo that to conclude, the cleane Clay barley is beſt for profit in the ſale drinke for ſtrength and long laſting.

The Barley in the mixt grounds will ſerue well for houſholds and fam • lies: and the ſandy bar • ey for the poore, and in ſuch places where better is not to be gotten. And theſe are to be knowne of euery Husband or Houſe-wife: the firſt by his whiteneſſe, greatneſſe and fulneſſe: the ſecond by his browneneſſe, and the third by his yellowneſſe, with a darke browne nether ende, and the emptineſſe and thickneſſe of the huske (and in this e • ection of Barley) you ſhall note, that if you finde in it any wild oates, it is a ſigne of a rich clay-ground, but ill husbanded, yet the malt made thereof is not much amiſſe, for both the wilde oate and the perfit oate giue a pleaſant ſharpe relliſh to the drinke, if the quantity be not too much, which is euermore to be reſpected. And to conclude this matter of election, great care muſt be had of both Husband and Houſe-wife ▪ that the bar • ey choſen for malt, be exceeding ſwe • te, both in ſmell and taſte, and very cleane dreſt: for any corruption maketh the malt loathſome, and the foule dreſſing affordeth much loſſe.

After the ſkilfull election of graine for malt, the Houſe-wife is to looke to the ſituation, goodneſſe and apt accommodation of the Malt-houſe; for in that conſiſteth both much of the skill, and much of the profit: for the generall ſituation of the houſe, it would (as neere as can be) ſtand vpon firme dry ground, hauing proſpect euery way, with open windowes and lights to let in the Wind, Sunne, and Ayre, which way the Malſter pleaſeth, both to coole and comfort the graine at pleaſure, and alſo cloſe-ſhuts or draw-windowes to neepe out the Froſts and Stormes, which are the onely lets and hinderances for making the malt good and perfect, for the modell or fo • me of theſe houſes, ſome are made round, with a court in the middle, ſome long, and ſome ſquare, but the round is the beſt, and the leaſt laborious; for the Ceſternes or Fats being placed (as it were) at the head, or beginning of the circkle, and the pumpe or well (but the pumpe is beſt) being cloſe adioyning, or at leaſt by conueyance of troughes made as vſefull as if it were neere adioyning, the Corne being ſteept, may with one perſons labour and a ſhouell, be caſt from the fat, or ceſterne to the flowre and there coucht; then when the couch is broken it may in the turning either with the hand or the ſhouell, be carried in ſuch a circular houſe round about from one flowre to another, till it come to the kilne, which would alſo be placed next ouer againſt the pumpe and ceſternes, and all contained vnder one rooffe; and thus you may empty ſteeping after ſteeping, and carrie them with one perſons labour from flowre to flowre, till all the flowres be fild: in which circular motion you ſhall finde, that euer that which was firſt ſteept, ſhall firſt come to the Kilne, and ſo conſequently one after another in ſuch ſort as they were ſteeped, and your worke may euermore be conſtant, and your flowres at no time empty but at your owne pleaſure, and all the labour done onely with the hand and ſhouell, without carrying or recarrying, or lifting heauie burthens, is both troubleſome and offenſiue, and not without much loſſe, becauſe in ſuch caſes euer ſome graine ſcattereth.

Now ouer againſt the Kilne-hole or Furnace (which is euermore intended to bee on the ground) ſhould a conuenient place be made to pile the fuell for the Kilne, whether it bee Strawe, Bracken, Furres, Wood, Coale, or other fewell; but ſweete Straw is of all other the beſt and neareſt. Now it is intended that this mault-houſe may be made two Stories in height, but no higher: ouer your Ceſternes ſhall be made the Garners wherein to keepe your Barley before it be ſteeped: in the bottomes of theſe Garners, ſtanding directly ouer the Ceſternes, ſhall bee conuenient holes made to open and ſhut at pleaſure, through which ſhall runne downe the Barley into the Ceſterne. Ouer the bed of the Kilne can bee nothing but the place for the Haire cloth, and a ſpacious roofe open euery way, that the ſmoake may haue free paſſage, and with the leaſt ayre bee carried from the Kilne, which maketh the malte ſweete and pleaſant. Ouer that place where the fewell is piled, and is next of all to the bed of the Kilne, would likewiſe bee other ſpacious Garners made, ſome to receiue the Malte aſſoone as it is dried with the Come and Kilne-duſt, in which it may lye to mellow and ripen; and others to receiue the Malt after it is ſkreened and dreſt vp; for to let it bee too long in the Come, as aboue three moneths at longeſt, will make it both corrupt, and breede Weeuels and other Wormes, which are the greateſt deſtroyers of malt that may be. And theſe garners ſhould be ſo conueniently plac't before the front of the Kilne-bed, that either with the ſhouell or a ſmall ſcuttle you may caſt, or carrie the malt once dryed into the Garners. For the other part of the flowers, they may be imployed as the ground flowers are for the receiuing of the malt when it comes from the ceſterne: and in this manner, and with theſe accommodations you may faſhion any malt-houſe either round, long, ſquare, or of what proportion ſoeuer, as either your eſtate, or the conuenience of the ground you haue to build on ſhall admiiniſter.

Next to the cite or proportion of the ground, you ſhall haue a principall care for the making of your malt-flowers, in which (all the cuſtome, and the nature of the ſoile binds many times a man to ſundry inconueniences, and that a man muſt neceſſarily build according to the matter he hath to build withal, from whence ariſeth the many diuerſities of malt flowers) yet you ſhall vnderſtand, that the generall beſt malt-flowre, both for Summer and Winter, and all ſeaſons, is the caue or vaulted arch which is hewed out of a drye and mayne greetie rocke, for it is both warme in Winter, coole in Summer, and generally comfortable in all ſeaſons of the yeare whatſoeuer. For it is to be noted, that all be Houſe wiues do giue ouer the making of malt in the extreame heate of Summer, it is not becauſe the malt is worſe that is made in Summer then that which is made in winter, but becauſe the flowres are more vnſeaſonable, and that the Sunne getting a power into ſuch open places maketh the graine which is ſteeped to ſprou • e and com • ſo ſwif • ly, that it cannot indure to tak • tim • on the flowre, and get the right ſeaſ • ning which belongeth to the ſame: wheras theſe kind of vaults being dry, and as it were coucht vnder the ground, not onely keepeth out the Sunne in Summer, which maketh the Malt come much too faſt, but alſo defendeth it from froſts and colde bitter blaſtes in ſharpe Winters, which will not ſuffer it to come, or ſproute at all; or if parte doe come and ſproute, as that which lyeth in the heart of the bed; yet the vpper partes and outſide by meanes of extreame colde cannot ſproute: but being againe dryed, hath his firſt hardneſſe, and is one and the ſ • me with rawe Barley; for euery Houſe wife muſt knowe, that if malt do not come as it were altogether▪ and at an inſtant, and not one come more than another, the malt muſt needes be very much imperfect: The next flower to the Caue, or drye ſandy Rocke, is the flower which is made of earth, or a ſtiffe ſtrong binding Claye well watered, and mixt with Horſe-dung, and Soape-aſhes, beaten and wrought together, till it come to one ſollide firmeneſſe; this Flower is a very warme comfortable Flower in the Winter ſeaſon, and will helpe the graine to come and ſproute exceedingly, and with the helpe of windowes to let in the colde ayre, and to ſhut out the violent reflection of the Sunne, will ſerue very conueniently for the making of malt, for nine monethes in the yeare, that is to ſay, from September till the ende of May, but for Iune, Iuly, and Auguſt, to imploye it to that purpoſe, will breede both loſſe, and • ncumbrance: The next Flower to this of earth, is that which is made of plaſter, or plaſter of paris, being burnt in a ſeaſonable time, and kept from wet, till the t • me of ſhooting, and then ſmoothly layde, and well levelled; the imperfection of the plaſter flower is onely the extreame coldneſſe thereof, which in froſty and cold ſeaſons, ſo bindeth in the heart of the graine, that it cannot ſproute, for which cauſe it behooueth euery Mal • ſter that is compelled to theſe Flowers, to looke well into the ſeaſons of the yeere, and when hee findeth either the Froſtes, Northerne blaſts, or other • ipping ſtormes to rage too violently, then to make his firſt couches or beds, when the graine commeth newly out of the Ceſterne, much thicker and rounder then otherwiſe hee would doe; and as the colde abateth, or the corne increaſeth in ſprouting, ſo to make couches or beds thinner and thinner, for the thicker and cloſer the graine is coucht and layde together, the warmer it lyeth; and ſo catching heate, the ſooner it ſprouteth, and the thinner it lyeth the cooler it is, and ſo much the flower in ſprouting. This flowre, if the windowes be cloſe, and guard of the Sunne ſufficiently, will (if neceſſity compell) ſerue for the making of Malt ten moneths in the yeare, onely in Iuly and Auguſt which containe the Dogge-dayes, it would not be imployed, not in the time of any Froſt, without great care and circumpection.

Againe, there is in this flowre another fault, which is a naturall caſting out of duſt, which much ſullieth the graine, and being dried, makes it looke dun and foule, which is much diſparagement to the Maltſter; therefore ſhe muſt haue great care that when the malt is taken away, to ſweepe and keepe her flowers as cleane and neate as may be. The laſt and worſt is the boarded flower, of what kind ſoeuer it be, by reaſon of the too much heate thereof, and yet of boarded flowers the Oken boarded is the cooleſt and longeſt laſting; the E • me or Beech is next; then the Aſhe, and the worſt (though it bee the faireſt to the eye) is the Firre, for it hath in it ſelfe (by reaſon of the Frankenſence and Turpentine which it holdeth) a naturall heate, which mixed with the violence of the Sunne in the Summertime, forceth the graine not onely to ſproute, but to grow in the couch, which is much loſſe, and a foule • mputation. Now theſe boarded flowers can hardly be in vſe for aboue fiue moneths at the moſt, that is to ſay, October, Nouember, December, Ianuary and February: for the reſt, the Sunne hath too much ſtrength, and theſe boarded flowers too much warmth and therefore in the cooleſt times it is good to obſerue 〈◊〉 make the couches thinne, whereby the ayre may paſſe thorough the corne, and ſo coole it, that it may ſprou • e at leaſure.

Now for any other flower beſides theſe alreadie named, there is not any good to malt vpon; for the common flowre which is of naturall earth, whether it be Claye, Sand or Grauell, if it haue no mixture at all with it more then it owne nature, by oft treading vpon it, groweth to gather the nature of ſaltnesſe or Salt-peter into it, which not onely giueth an ill taſte to the graine that is layde vpon the ſame, but alſo his moyſture and moldineſſe, which in the moyſt t • mes of the yeare ariſe from the ground, it often corrupteth and putrifieth the corne. The rough paued flowre by reaſon of the vneuenneſſe, is vnfit to malt on, becauſe the graine getting into the cranni • s, doth there lye, and are not remoued or turned vp and downe as they ſhou • d be with the hand, but many times is ſo fixed to the ground, it ſprouteth and groweth vp into a greene blade, affoording much loſſe and hinderance to the owner.

The ſmooth paued flowre, or any flowre of ſtone whatſoeuer, is full as ill; for euery one of them naturally againſt much wet o • chaunge of weather, will ſweate and diſti • l forth ſuch abundant moiſture, that the Malt lying vpon the ſame, can neither dry kindly and expell the former moiſture receiued in the c • ſterne, but alſo by that ouer much moiſture many times rotte • h, and comes to altogether vſeleſſe. Laſtly, for the flower made of Lime and Haire, it is as ill as any formerly ſpoken of, both in reſpect of the nature of the Lime, whoſe heate and ſharpnes is a maine enemy to Malt, or any moiſt corne, as alſo in reſpect of the weaknes and brittlenes of the ſubſtance thereof, being apt to molder and fall in pieces with the lighteſt treading on the ſame, and that lime and duſt once mixing with the corne, it doth ſo poiſon and ſuffocate it, that it can neither ſprout, nor turne ſeruiceable for any vſe.

Which to preuent, and that the Malſter may haue better aſſurance and comfort in her labour, there is a Kilne now of generall vſe in this Kingdome, which is called a French Kilne, being framed of a Bricke, Aſhler, or other fire-ſtone, according to the nature of the ſoyle in which Huſbands and Houſ wiues liue: and this French Kilne is euer ſafe and ſecure from fire, and whether the Malſter wake or ſleepe, without extreame wilfull negligence, there can no danger come to the Kilne; and in theſe Kilnes may be burnt any kind of fewell whatſoeuer, and neither ſhall the ſmoke offend or breed ill taſte in the Malt, nor yet diſcolour it, as many times it doth in open Kilnes, where the Malt is as it were, couered all ouer, and euen pa • boyld in ſmoke: ſo that of all ſorts of Kilnes whatſoeuer, this which is called the French Kilne, is to be preferred and onely embraced. Of the forme or mode • whereof, I will not here ſtand to entreat, becauſe they are now ſo generally frequent amongſt vs, that not a Maſon or Carpenter in the whole Kingdome but can bu • d the ſ • me; ſo that to vſe more words thereof were tediouſneſſe to little purpoſe. Now there is an • ther kind of Kilne which I haue ſeene (and but in the Weſt-country onely) which for the profitable quaintneſſe thereof, I tooke ſome eſpeciall note of, and that was a Kilne made at the end of a Kitchin Raunge or Chimney, being in ſhape round, and made of Bricke, with a little hollowneſſe narrowed by degrees▪ into which came from the bottome and midſt of the Kitchin-chimney a hollow tun • ell or vault, like the tunnell of a Chimny, and 〈◊〉 directly on the backe ſide, the hood or backe of the Kitchin chimney; then in the midſt of the Chimney, where the greateh ſtrength of the fire was made, was a • quare hole made of about a foote and a halfe eue • y way, with an Iron thicke plate to draw to and fro, opening and cloſing the hole at pleaſure; and this hole doth open onely into that tunnell which went to the Kilne, ſo that the Malt being once laid, and ſpread vpon the Kilne, draw away the Iron plate, and the ordinary fire with which you dreſſe your meate, and performe other neceſſary buſineſſes, is ſuckt vp into this tunnell, and ſo conuaieth the heate to the Kilne, where it drieth the Malt with as great perfection, as any Kilne I ſaw in my life, and needeth neither attendance or other ceremony more, then once in fiue or ſixe houres to turne the Malt, and take it away when it is dried ſufficiently: for it is here to be noted, that how great or violent ſoeuer the fire be which is in the Chimney, yet by reaſon of the paſſage, and the quantity thereof, it carrieth no more but a moderate heate to the Kilne; and for the ſmoke, it is ſo carried away in other loope-holes which runne from the hollowneſſe betweene the tunnell and the Malt-bed, that no Malt in the world can poſſibly be ſweeter, or more delicately coloured▪ onely the fault of theſe Kilns are, that they are but little in compaſſe, and ſo cannot dry much at a time, as not aboue a quarter or ten ſtrike at the moſt in one drying, and therefore are no more but for a ma • s owne particular vſe, and for the furniſhing of one ſetled family; but ſo applied, they exceede all the Kilnes that I haue ſeene whatſoeuer.

When our Malſter hath thus perſited the Malt houſe and Kilne, then next looke to the well bedding of the Kilne, which is diuerſly done according to mens diuers opinions; for ſome vſe one thing, and ſome another, us the neceſſity of the place, or mens particular profits draw them.

But firſt to ſhewe you what the bedding of a Kilne is, you ſhall vnderſtand, that it is a thinne couering laid vpon the open rafters, which are next vnto the heate of the fire; being made either ſo thinne or ſo open, that the ſmalleſt heate may paſſe thorow it, and come to the corne: this bed muſt be laid ſo euen and leuell as may be, and not thicker in one place then another, leaſt the Malt drie too faſt where it is thinneſt, and too ſlowly where it is thicke, and ſo in the taſte ſeeme to bee of two ſeuerall dryings: it muſt alſo be made of ſuch ſtuffe, as hauing receiued heate, it will long continue the ſame, and be an aſſiſtant to the fire in drying the corne: it ſhould alſo haue in it no moyſt or dankiſh propertie, leaſt at the firſt receiuing of the fire, it ſend out a ſtinking ſmoke, and ſo taint the malt: nor ſhould it be of any rough or ſharpe ſubſtance, becauſe vpon this bed or bedding is laid the haire-cloth, and on the haire-cloth the malt, ſo that with the turning the malt, and treading vpon the cloth, ſhould the bed be of any ſuch roughneſſe, it would ſoone weare out the haire-cloth, which would be both loſſe and ill Houſe-wifery, which is carefully to be eſchewed.

But now for the matter or ſubſtance whereof this bidding ſhould be made, the beſt, neareſt, and ſweeteſt, is cleane long Rye ſtraw, with the eares onely cut off, and the ends layd euen together, not one longer then another▪ and ſo ſpread vpon the rafter of the Kilne as euen and thinne as may be, and layd as it were ſtraw by ſtraw in a iuſt proportion, where skill and induſtry may make it thin or thicke at pleaſure, as but the thickneſſe of one ſtraw, or of two, three, foure or fiue, as ſhall ſeeme to your iudgement moſt conuenient, and then this, there can be nothing more euen, more drye, ſweete, or open to let in the heate at your pleaſure: and although in the olde open Ki • nes it be ſubiect to daunger of fire, by reaſon of the quickeneſſe to receiue the flame, yet in the French Kilnes (before mentioned) it is a moſt ſafe bedding, for not any fire can come neere vnto it. There bee others which bed the Ki • ne with Mat; and it is not much to bee miſliked, if the Mat be made of Rye ſtraw ſowed, and wouen together according to the manner of the Indian Mats, or thoſe vſuall thinne Bent Mats, which you ſhall commonly ſee in the Summer time, ſtanding in Husbandmens Chimneyes, where one bent or ſtraw is layde by another, and ſo wouen together with a good ſtrong packe-thread: but theſe M •• s according to the o • de Prouerbe (More coſt more Worſhippe) for they are chargeable to b • e bought, and very troubleſ • me in the making, and in the wearing will not outlaſt one of the former looſe beddings; for fo •• e thread or ſtitch breake, immediately moſt in that • owe will followe: onely it is moſt certaine, that during the time it laſteth it is both good, neceſſary and handſome. But if the matt be made either of Bulruſhes, Flaggs, or any other thicke ſubſtance (as for the moſt part they are) then it is not ſo good a bedding, both becauſe the thickneſſe keepeth out the heate, and is long before it can be warmed; as alſo in that it euer being cold, naturally of it ſelfe draweth into it a certaine moyſture, which with the firſt heate being expelled in ſmoke, doth much offend and breed ill taſte in the malt. There be others that bed the Kilne with a kinde of matt made of broad thinne ſplints of wood wrought checker-wiſe one into another, and it hath the ſame faults which the thicke matt hath; for it is long in catching the heate, and will euer ſmoke at the firſt warming, and that ſmoke will the malt ſmell on euer after; for the ſmoke of wood is euer more ſharpe and piercing then any other ſmoke whatſoeuer. Beſides this wooden matt, after it hath once bedded the Kilne, it can hardly afterward bee taken vp or remoued; for by continuall heate, being brought to ſuch an extreame drieneſſe, if vpon any occaſion either to mend the Kilne, or clenſe the Kilne, or doe other neceſſary labour vnderneath the bedding, you ſhall take vp the wooden matt, it would preſently cracke and fall to pieces, and be no more ſeruiceable. There be others which bed the Kilne with a bedding made all of wickers, of ſmall wands foulded one into another like a hurdle, or ſuch like wand-worke; but it is made very open, euery wand at leaſt two or three fingers one from another▪ and this kind of bedding is a very ſtrong kind of bedding, and will laſt long, and catcheth the h • at • t the fi • ſt ſpringing, onely the ſmoke is offenſiue, and the • ou •• neſſe without great care vſed, will ſoone weare out your haire-cloth: yet in ſuch places where ſtraw is not to be got or ſpared, and that you are compelled onely to vſe wood for your fuell in drying your Malt, I allow this bedding before any other, for it is very good, ſtrong and long-laſting: beſides, it may be taken vp & ſet by at pleaſure, ſo that you may ſweepe and clenſe your Kilne as oft as occaſion ſhall ſerue, and in the neate and fine keeping of the Kilne, doth conſiſt much of the Houſ-wiues Art; for to be choakt either with duſt, durt, ſoote or aſhes, as it ſhewes ſluttiſhneſſe and ſloth, the onely great imputations hanging ouer a Hous-wife, ſo they likewiſe hinder the labou • , and make the malt dry a great • deale worſe, and more vnkindly.

Next the bedding of the Kilne, our Malſter by all meanes muſt haue an eſpeciall • are with what fuell ſhee dryeth the Malt; for commonly according to that it euer receiueth and keepeth the taſte, if by ſome eſpeciall Art in the Kilne that anoyance be not taken away. To ſpeake then of Fewels in generall, they are of diuers kinds according to the na • ures of ſoyles, and the accommodation of places in which men liue; yet the bed and moſt principall fewell for the K • lnes (both for ſweetneſſe, gentle heate, and perfect drying) is either good Wheate-ſtraw, Rye-ſtraw, Barley-ſtraw, or Oaten-ſtraw; and of theſe the Wheat-ſtraw is the beſt, becauſe it is moſt ſubſtantiall, longeſt laſting, makes the ſharpeſt fire, and yeelds the leaſt flame: the next is Rie-ſtraw, then Oaten-ſtraw, and laſt Barley-ſtraw, which by reaſon it is ſhorteſt, lighteſt, leaſt laſting, and giueth more blaze then heate, it is laſt of theſe white ſtraws to be choſen; where any of theſe faile, or are ſcarce, you may take the ſtubble or after-crop of them, when the vpper part is ſhorne away; which being well dried and houſed, is as good as any of the reſt already ſpoken of, and leſſe chargeable, becauſe it is not ſit for any better purpoſe as to make fodder, mea • ure, or ſuch like, of more then ordinary thatching, and ſo fitteſt for this purpoſe. Next to theſe white ſtrawes, your long Fenne- • uſhes, being very exceedingly well withered and dried, and all the ſappie moyſture gotten out of them, and ſo either ſafely houſed or ſtacked, are the beſt fuell: for they make a very ſubſtantiall fire, and much laſting, neither are apt to much blazing, nor the ſmoke ſo ſharpe or violent but may very well be endured: where all theſe are wanting, you may take the ſtraw of Peaſe, Fetches, •• pi • s, or Tares, any of which will ſerue, yet the ſmoke is apt to taint, and the fire without preuention drieth too ſuddenly and ſwiftly. Next to theſe is cleane Beane-ſtraw, or ſtraw mixt of Beanes and Peaſe together; but this muſt be handled with great diſcretion, for the ſubſtance containeth ſo much heate, that it will rather burne then drie, if it be not moderated, and the ſmoke is alſo much offenſiue. Next to this beane-ſtraw is your • urrs, Gorſe, Whinnes, or ſmall Bruſh-wood, which differeth not much from Beane-ſtraw; onely the ſmoke is much ſharper, and tainteth the Malt with a much ſtronger ſauour. To theſe I may adde Braken or Braks, Ling, Heath, or Brome, all which may ſerue in time of neceſſity, but each one of them haue this fault, that they adde to the Malt an ill taſte or ſauour. After theſe I place Wood of all ſorts, for each is alike noyſome, and if the ſmoke which commeth from it touch the Malt, the infection cannot be recouered; from whence amongſt the beſt Huſbands haue ſprung this opinion, that when at any time drinke is ill taſted, they ſay ſtraight, it was made of Wood-dried Malt. And thus you ſee the generality of fuels, their vertues, faults, and how they are to be imployed. Now for Coale of all kinds, Turfe or Peate, they are not by any meanes to be vſed vnder Kilnes, except where the furnaces are ſo ſubtilly made, that the ſmoke is conuaied a quite contrary way, and neuer commeth neere the Malt; in that caſe it skilleth not what fuell you vſe, ſo it be durable and cheape it is fit for the purpoſe, onely great regard muſt be had to the gentleneſſe of the fire; for as the old Prouerb is (Soft fire makes ſweet Malt) ſo too raſh and haſty a fire ſcorcheth and burneth it, which is called amongſt Malſters Firefangd; and ſuch Malt is good for little or no purpoſe: therefore to keepe a temperate and true fire, is the onely Art of a moſt skilfull Maltſte • .

When the Kilne is thus made and furniſhed of all neceſſaries duely belonging to the ſame, our malſters next care ſhall bee to the faſhioning and making of the Garnets, Hutches, or Holds in which both the malt after it is dried, and the Barley before it be ſteeped, is to be kept and preſerued; and theſe Garners or Safes for Corne are made of diuers faſhions, and diuers matters, as ſome of Boords, ſome of Brickes, ſome of Stone, ſome of Lime and Haire, and ſome of mud, Clay or Loame: but all of theſe haue their ſeuerall faults; for Wood of all kinds breedeth W •• uell and Wormes which deſtroy the Graine, and is indeed much too hot: for although malt would euer be kept paſſing drie, yet neuer ſo little ouer-plus of heate withers it, and takes away the vertue; for as moyſture rots and corrupts it, ſo heate takes away and decayeth the ſubſtance. Bricke, becauſe it is layde with Lime, is altogether vnwholeſome, for the Lime being apt at change of weather to ſweate, moyſteneth the graine, and ſo tainteth it, and in the drieſt ſeaſons with the ſharpe hot taſte, doth fully as much offend it: thoſe which are made of Stone are much more noyſome, both in reſpect of the reaſons before rehearſed, as alſo in that all Stone of it ſelfe will ſweate, and ſo more and more corrupteth the graine which is harboured in it. Lime and haire being of the ſame nature, carrieth the ſame offences, and is in the like ſort to be eſchewed. Now for mud, clay, or loame, in as much as they muſt neceſſarily be mixed with wood, becauſe otherwiſe of themſelues they cannot knit or binde together, and beſides, that the clay or loame muſt be mixt either with chopt hey, chopt ſtraw, or chopt Litter, they are as great breeders of Wormes and vermine as wood is, nor are they defences againſt mice, but eaſie to be wrought through, and ſo very vnprofitable for any Husband or Houſe-wife to vſe. Beſides, they are much too hot, and beeing either in a cloſe houſe neere the kilne, or the backe or face of any other Chimney, they drye the corne too ſore, and make it dwindle and wither, ſo that it neither filleth the buſhell, nor inricheth the liquor, but turnes to loſſe euery way. The beſt Garner then that can bee made both for ſafety and profite, is to be made either of broken tile-ſhread, or broken brickes, cunningly and euen layd, & bound together with Plaſter of Paris, or our ordinary Engliſh Plaſter, or burnt Alablaſter, and then couered all ouer both within and without, in the bo • tome and on euery ſide, at leaſt three fingers thicke with the ſame Plaſter, ſo as no bricke or tyle-ſhread may by any meanes bee ſeene, or come neere to touch the Corne; and theſe Garners you may make as bigge, or as little as you pleaſe, according to the frame of your houſe, or places of moſt conuenience for the purpoſe, which indeed would euer be as neere the Kilne as may be, that the ayre of the fire in the dayes of drying may come vnto the ſame, or elſe neere the backes or ſides of Chemneyes, where the ayre thereof may correct the extreame coldneſſe of the plaſter, which of a • l things that are bred in the earth, is the coldeſt thing that may be, and yet moſt dry, and not apt to ſweat, or take moyſture but by ſome violent extremity, neither will any worme or vermine come neere it, becauſe the great coldneſſe thereof is a mortall enemy to their natures, and ſo the ſafeſt and longeſt theſe Garners of plaſter keepe all kinde of Graine and Pulſe in the beſt perfection.

After theſe Garners, Hutches, or large Keepes for Corne are perfitted and made, and fitly adioyned to the Kilne, the next thing that our Maultſter hath to looke vnto, is the framing of the Fatts or Ceſternes, in which the Corne is to be ſteeped, and they are of two ſorts, that is, either of Coopers worke, being great Fatts of wood, or elſe of Maſons worke, beeing Ceſternes made of ſtone; but the Ceſterne of ſtone is much the better, for beſides that theſe great Fatts of Wood are very chargeable and coſtly (as a Fatte to containe foure quarters of graine, which is but two and thirty buſhels, cannot be affoorded vnder twenty ſhillings) ſo likewiſe they are very caſuall and apt to miſchaunce and ſpilling; for and beſides their ordinary wearing, if in the heate of Summer they be neuer ſo little neglected without water, and ſuffered to be ouer-drye, it is tenne to one but in the Winter they will bee ready to fall in peeces; and if they bee kept moyſt, yet if the water bee not oft ſhifted and preſerued ſweete, the Fatte will ſoone taynt, and beeing once growne faultie, it is not onely irrecouerable, but alſo whatſoeuer commeth to be ſteeped in it after, will be ſure to haue the ſame ſauour, beſides the wearing and breaking of Garthes and Plugges, the binding, clenſing, ſweetning, and a whole world of other troubles and charges doe ſo dayly attend them, that the benefite is a great deale ſhort of the incumbrance; whereas the Stone Ceſterne is euer ready and vſefull, without any vexation at all, and being once well and ſufficiently made, will not neede trouble or reparation (more then ordinary waſhing) ſcarce in a hundred yeares.

Now the beſt way of making theſe Mault-ceſternes, is to make the bottomes and ſides of good tyle-ſhreads, fixed together with the beſt Lime and Sand, and the bottome ſhall bee raiſed at leaſt a foote and a halfe higher then the ground, and at one corner in the bottome a fine artificiall round hole muſt be made, which being outwardly ſtopt, the maltſter may through it drayne the Ceſterne drye when ſhee pleaſeth, and the bottome muſt bee ſo artificially leueld and contriued, that the water may haue a true deſcent to that hole, and not any remaine behind when it is opened.

Now when the modell is thus made of tile-ſhread, which you may do great or little at your pleaſure, then with Lime, Haire, and Beaſts blood mixed together, you ſhall couer the bottome at leaſt two inches thicke, laying it leuell and plaine, as is before ſhewed: which done, you ſhall alſo couer all the ſides and toppe, both within and without with the ſame mat • er, at leaſt a good fingers thickneſſe, and the maine Wall of the whole ceſterne ſhall bee a full foote in thickneſſe, as well for ſtrength and dureableſſe, as other priuate reaſons for the holding the graine and water, whoſe poyſe and weight might otherwiſe indanger a weaker ſubſtance. And thus much concerning the Malt-houſe, and thoſe ſeuerall accommodations which doe belong vnto the ſame.

I wil • now ſpeake a little in generall as touching the Art, skill and knowledge of malt making, which I haue referred to the conc •• ſion of this Chapter, becauſe whoſoeuer is ignorant in any of the things before ſpoken of, cannot by any meanes euer attaine to the perfection of moſt true and moſt thrifty malt making: To beginne then with this Art of making, or (as ſome tearme it) making of malt, you ſhall firſt (hauing proportioned the quantity you meane to ſteepe, which ſhould euer be anſwerable to the continent of your Ceſterne, and your Ceſterne to your flowres) let it either runne downe from your vpper Garner into the Ceſterne, or otherwiſe be carried into your Ceſterne, as you ſhal • pleaſe, or your occaſions deſire, and this Barley wou • d by all meanes be very cleane, and neatly dreſt; then when your Ceſterne is filled, you ſhall from your Pumpe or Well conuey the water into the ceſterne, till all the corne be drencht, and that the water floate aboue it: if there be any corne that will not ſinke, you ſhall with your hand ſtirre it about, and wet it, and ſo let it reſt and couer the ceſterne, and thus for the ſpace of three nights you ſhall let the Corne ſteepe in the water. After the third night is expired, the next morning you ſhall come to the Ceſterne, and plucke out the plug or bung-ſticke which ſtoppeth the hole in the bottome of the Ceſterne, and ſo draine the water cleane from the Corne, and this water you ſhall by all meanes ſaue, for much light Corne and others will come foorth with this draine water, which is very good Swines meate, and may not bee loſt by any good Houſe-w • fe. Then hauing drained it, you ſhall let the ceſterne drop all that day, and in the euening with your ſhoue • l you ſhall empty the corne from the ceſterne vnto the malt flowre, and when all is out, and the ceſterne cleanſed, you ſhall lay all the wet corne on a great heape round or long, and flat on the toppe; and the thickneſſe of this heape ſhall be anſwerable to the ſeaſon of the yeare; for if the wea • her be extreame cold, then • he heape ſhall be made very thicke, as three or foure foote, or more, according to the quantity of the graine: but if the weather be temperate and warme, then ſhall the heape be made thinner, as two foote, a foote and a halfe, or one foote, according to the quantity of the graine. And this heape is called of Malſters a Couch or Bed of raw Malt.

In this couch you ſhall let the corne lye three nights more without ſtirring, and after the expiration of the three nights, you ſhall looke vpon it, and if you find that it beginneth but to ſproute (which is called comming of malt) though it be neuer ſo little, as but the very white ende of the ſproute peeping out (ſo it bee in the outward part of the heape or couch) you ſhall then breake open the couch, and in the middeſt (where the Corne laye neereſt) you ſhall finde the ſproute or Come of a greater largeneſſe; then with your ſhouell you ſhall turne all the outward part of the couch inw • rd, and the inward outward, and make it at leaſt three o • foure times as bigge as it was at the firſt, and ſo let it lye all that day and night, and the next day you ſhall with your ſhouell turne the whole heape ouer againe, increaſing the largeneſſe, and making it of one indifferent thickneſſe ouer all the flowre; that is to ſay, not aboue a handfull thicke at the moſt, not failing af • er for the ſpace of foureteene dayes, which doth make vp full in all three weekes, to turne it a • l ouer twice or thrice a day according to the ſeaſon of the weather, for if it be warme, the malt muſt be turned oftner; if coole, then it may lye looſer-thicker and longer together; and when the three weekes is fu • ly accompliſht, then you ſhall (hauing bedded your Kilne, and ſpread a cleane hayre-cloth thereon) lay the malte as thinne as may be (as about three fingers thickneſſe) vpon the haire-cloth,The drying of Mault. and ſo drye it with a gentle and ſoft fire, euer and anon turning the mault (as it drieth on the Kilne) ouer and ouer with your hand, till you finde it ſufficiently well dryed, which you ſhall know both by the taſte when you bite it in your mouth, and alſo by the falling off of the Come or ſprout, when it is throughly dryed. Now aſſoone as you ſee the come beginne to ſhed▪ you ſhall in the turning of the mault rubbe it well betweene your hands, and ſcower it, to make the come fall away, then finding it all ſufficiently dried, firſt pu • out your fire, then let the malt coole vpon the Kilne for foure or fiue howres, and after raiſing vp the foure corners of the haire-cloth, and gathering the mault together on a heape, empty it with the come and all into your garners, and there let it lye (if you hau • not preſent occaſion to v • e it) for a moneth or two or three to ripen, but no longer, for as the come or duſt of the Kilne, for ſuch a ſpace melloweth and ripeneth the malt, making it better both for ſale or expence, ſo to lye too long in it doth ingender Weeuell, Wormes, and vermine which doe deſtroye the graine.

Now for the dreſſing and cleenſing of malt at ſuch time as it is either to be ſpent in the houſe, or ſolde in the market, you ſhall firſt winnow it with a good wind either from the ayre, or from the fan; and before the winnowing you ſhall rubbe it exceeding well betweene your hands to get the come or ſproutings cleane away: for the beauty and goodneſſe of malt is when it is moſt ſmug, cleane, bright, and likeſt to Barley in the viewe, for then there is leaſt waſt and greateſt profit: for come and duſt drinketh vp the liquor, and giues an ill taſte to the drinke. After it is well rubd and winnowed, you ſhall then • ee it ouer in a fine ſiue, and if any of the malt be vnclenſed, then rub it aga • ne in the ſiue till it be pure, and the rubbings will ariſe on the top of the ſiue, which you may caſt off at pleaſure, and both thoſe rubbings from the ſiue and the chaffe and duſt which commeth from the winnowings ſhould be ſafe kept, for they are very good Swines meate, and feede well mixt either with whay or ſwillings: and thus after the malt is reed, you ſhall either ſacke it vp for eſpeciall vſe, or put it into a well clenſed Garne • , where it may lye till there be occaſion for expence.

Now there bee certaine obſeruations in the making of Malt, which I may by no meanes omit: for though diuerſe opinions doe diuerſly argue them, yet as neere as I can, I will reconcile them to that truth, which is moſt conſonant to reaſon, and the rule of honeſty and equalitie.

Firſt, there is a difference in mens opinions as touching the conſtant time for the mellowing and making of the Malt; that is, from the firſt ſteeping to the time of drying; for ſome will allow b • th Fat and Flowre hardly a fortnight, ſome a fortnight and two or three dayes, and doe giue this re • ſon; firſt, they ſay it makes the Corne looke whiter and brigh • er, and doth not get ſo much the ſuil • g and foul • neſſe of the flower, as that wh • ch lieth three weekes, which makes it a great deale more beautifull and ſo more ſ • llable: next, it doth not come or ſhoote our ſo much ſprout, as that which lieth a longer time, and ſo preſerueth more h •• rt in the graine, makes it bould and fuller, and ſo conſequently more full of • ubſtance, and able to make more of a • ittle, then the other much of more; a • d theſe reaſons are good in ſhew, but not in ſubſtantiall tru • h: for (although I confeſſe that Corne which lie • h leaſt time of the fl • wre muſt be the whiteſt and brighteſt) yet that which wanteth any of the due time, can neither ripen, mellow, nor come to true perfection, and leſſe then three weekes cannot ripen barley: for looke what time it hath to ſwell and ſprout, it muſt haue full that t • me to flouriſh, and as much time to decay: now in leſſe then a weeke it cannot doe the firſt, and ſo in a weeke the ſecond, and in another weeke the third; ſo that in leſſe then three weekes a man cannot make perfect Malt. Againe, I confeſſe, that Malt which hath the leaſt Come, muſt haue the greateſt kernell, and ſo be moſt ſubſtantiall; yet the Malt which putteth not out his full ſprout, but hath that moyſture (with too much haſte) driuen in which ſhould be expelled, can neuer be Malt of any long laſting, or profitab • e for indurance, becauſe it hath ſo much moiſt ſubſtance as doth make it both apt to corrupt and breed wormes in moſt great abundance: it is moſt true, that this haſtie made Malt is faireſt to the eie, and will ſooneſt be vented in the Market; and being ſpent aſſoone as it is bought, little or no loſſe is to be perceiued, yet if it be kept three or foure moneths, or longer (vnleſſe the place where it is kept be like a Hot houſe) it will ſo danke and giue againe, that it will be litt • e better then raw Malt, and ſo good for no ſeruice without a ſecond drying: beſides▪ Malt that is not ſuffred to ſprout to the full kindly, but is ſtopt as ſoone as it begins to peepe, much of that Malt cannot come at all, for the moyſteſt graines doe ſprout firſt, and the hardeſt are longer in breaking the husk; now if you ſtop the graine on the firſt ſprouts, and not giue all leaſure to come one after another, you ſhall haue halfe Malt and halfe Barley, and that is good for nothing but Hens and Hogs trough. So that to conclude, leſſe then three weekes you cannot haue to make good and perfect Malt.

Next there is a difference in the turning of the malt, for ſome (and thoſe be the moſt men Malſters whatſoeuer) turne all their malt with the ſhouell, and ſay it is moſt eaſie, moſt ſpeedy, and diſpatcheth more in an houre, then any other way doth in three; and it is very true, yet it ſcattereth much, leaueth much behind vnturn'd, and commonly that which was vndermoſt, it leaueth vndermoſt ſtill, and ſo by ſome comming too much, and others not comming at all, the malt is oft much imperfect, and the old ſaying made good, that too much haſte, maketh waſte. Now there are others (and they are for the moſt part woemen Malſters) which turne • ll with the • and, and that is the beſt, ſafeſt, and moſt certaine way; for there is not a graine which the hand doth not remoue and turne ouer and ouer and laies euery ſeuerall heape or row of ſuch an euen and iuſt thickneſſe, that the Malt both equally commeth, and equally ſeaſoneth together without defect or alteration: and though he that hath much Malt to make, will be willing to hearken to the ſwifteſt courſe in making, yet he that wlll make the beſt Malt, muſt take ſuch conuenient leaſure, and imploy that labour which commeth neereſt to perfection.

Then there is another eſpeciall care to be had in the coming or ſprouting of Malt, which is, that as it muſt not come too little, ſo it muſt not by any meanes come too much, for that is the groſſeſt abuſe that may be: and that which we call comed or ſprouted too much is, when either by negligence for want or looking to the couch, and not opening of it, or for want of turning when the malt is ſpread on the flowre it come or ſprout at both ends, which Huſbands ca • Akeripyerd; ſuch corne by reaſon the whole heart or ſubſtance is driuen out of it, can be good for no purpoſe but the Swine • rough, and therefore you muſt haue an eſpeciall care both to the well tending of the couch, and the turning the malt on the flowre, and be ſure (as neere as you can by the ordering of the couch, and happing the hardeſt graine inward and warmeſt) to make it all Come very indifferently together. Now i • it ſo fall out that you buy your Barley, and happen to light on mixt graine, ſome being old Corne, ſome new Corne, ſome of the heart of the ſt • cke, and ſome of the ſta • le, which is an ordinary dee •• with Huſbandmen in the Market, then you m • y be wel • ſ •• ed, tha • this graine can neuer Come o • ſprout equally together; for the new Corne will ſprout before the old, and the ſt • ddle before that in the heart of the ſtacke, by reaſon the one exceedeth the other in moyſtneſſe: therefore in this caſe you ſhall marke well which commeth firſt, which will be ſtill in the heart of the Couch, and with your hand gather it by it ſelfe into a ſeperate place, and then heape the other together againe; and thus as it cometh and ſprouteth, ſo gather it from the heape with your hand, and ſpread it on the flowre, and keepe the other ſtill in a thicke heape till all be ſprouted. Now laſtly obſerue, that if your Malt be hard to ſprout or Come, and that the fault conſiſt more in the bitter coldnes of the ſeaſon, then any defect of the corne, that then (beſides the thicke and cloſe making of the heape or couch) you faile not to couer it ouer with ſome thicke woollen clothes, as courſe Couerlids, or ſuch like ſtuffe, the warmth whereof will make it Come preſently: which once perceiued, then forthwith vncloth it, and order it as aforeſaid in all points. And thus much for the Art, order, skill and cunning belonging to the Malt-making.

Now as touching the making of Oates into Malt, which is a thing of generall vſe in many parts of this Kingdome where Barley is ſcarſe, as in Cheſheire, Lancaſheire, much of Darbiſheire, Deuonſheire, Cornwall, and the like, the Art and skill is all one with that of Barley, nor is there any variation or change of worke, but one and the ſame order ſtill to be obſerued, onely by reaſon that Oates are more ſwift in ſprouting, and apter to clutter, ball and hang together by the length of the ſprout then Barley is, therefore you muſt not faile but turne them oftner then Barley, and in the turning be carefull to turne all, and not leaue any vnmoued. Laſtly, they wi • l need leſſe of the ſlow • e then Barley will, for in a full fortnight, or a fortnight and two or three dayes you may make very good and perfect Oate-malt. But becauſe I haue a great deale more to ſpeake particularly of Oates in the next Chapter, I will here conclude this, and aduiſe euery skilfull Houſe-wife to ioyne with mine obſeruations her owne tryed experience, and no doubt but ſhee ſhall find both profit and ſatisfaction.