A most delectable and true discourse, of an admired and painefull peregrination from Scotland, to the most famous kingdomes in Europe, Asia and Affricke With the particular descriptions (more exactly set downe then hath beene heeretofore in English) of Italy Sycilia, Dalmatia, Ilyria, Epire, Peloponnesus, Macedonia, Thessalia, and the whole continent of Greece, Creta, Rhodes, the Iles Cyclades ... and the chiefest countries of Asia Minor. From thence, to Cyprus, Phænicia, Syria ... and the sacred citie Ierusalem, &c.

A most delectable and true discourse, of an admired and painefull peregrination from Scotland, to the most famous kingdomes in Europe, Asia and Affricke With the particular descriptions (more exactly set downe then hath beene heeretofore in English) of Italy Sycilia, Dalmatia, Ilyria, Epire, Peloponnesus, Macedonia, Thessalia, and the whole continent of Greece, Creta, Rhodes, the Iles Cyclades ... and the chiefest countries of Asia Minor. From thence, to Cyprus, Phænicia, Syria ... and the sacred citie Ierusalem, &c.

Table of contents

Title page

To all Noble-minded Gentlemen, and Heroicke Spirits in Court, Citie, and Countrey.

To my deere friend, Countriman and Condisciple, WILLIAM LITHGOVV.

To his most affectionate friend, W. Lithgow.

A Dire made by the Pilgrime in the Ile Nigroponti, when hee was constrained by Greekes to keepe Centinell sixe dayes (according to the times) who then stood in feare of two Turkish Gallies.

§

§

A Description of the Adriaticall and Ionean Ilands, how they haue beene first named, and now gouerned, of Istria, Dalmatia, Slauonia, Epire, Peloponnesus, and Athens, of a Monster borne in Lesina, and what dangers befell him in his voyage to Creta.

A Description of the Kingdome of Creta, of his dangers and hard fortunes amongst the Iles Syclades, of Thessaly, Mecadonia, the hill Pernassus, Achaia, Tenedos, Troy, Phrygia, Colchos, Sestos and Abidos, the Gulfe of Hellespont, and of his voyage to Constantinople.

A briefe Description of the renowned Citty of Constantinople, together with the customes, manners, and religion of the Turkes, their first beginning, and the birth of MAHOMET; and what opinion the Mahometanes haue of Heauen and Hell.

A Description of his Trauels into Asia Maior, Cyprus, and the Carpathian Iles, the reason why he was disappoynted of his purpose, being so neere Babylon, of the beauty of Damascus, of the nature of Arabians, and of his returne to Ierusalem.

A Description of Ierusalem, and the memorable things he saw there, and in Iudea: of the Holy Graue, Sodome and Gomorha, Iordan, the Desarts, Grand Cayro, Egypt, the Riuer Nylus, and of his returne to Christendome.

§

§

[Page]

[Page]

A MOST DELECTABLE AND TRVE DIScourse, of an admired and painefull Peregrination from Scotland, to the most famous Kingdomes in Europe, Asia and Affricke.

WITH The particular Descriptions (more exactly set downe then hath beene heeretofore in English) of Italy, Sycilia, Dalmatia, Ilyria, Epire, Peloponnesus, Macedonia, Thessalia, and the whole Continent of Greece, Creta, Rhodes, the Iles Cyclades, with all the Ilands in the Ionean, Aegean, and Adriaticke Seas, Thracia, the renowmed Citie Constantinople, Cholchis, Bythinia, and the blacke Sea, Troy, Phrygia, and the chiefest Countries of Asia Minor.

FROM THENCE, To Cyprus, Phaenicia, Syria, Mesopotamia, Arabia Petrea, and the Desart of Egypt, the Red Sea, Grand Cayro, the whole Prouince of Canaan, the Lake of Sodom and Gomorha, the famous Riuers, Nilus, Euphrates, and Iordan, and the sacred Citie Ierusalem, &c.

Coelum non Animum.

The second Impression, Corrected and enlarged by the Authour WILLIAM LITHGOVV.

LONDON, Printed by Nicholas Okes, and are to be sold by Thomas Archer, at his Shop in Popes head Palace. 1616

To all Noble-minded Gentlemen, and Heroicke Spirits in Court, Citie, and Countrey.

[Page]

[Page]

COurteous Reader, of these my double paines of a two-fold Pilgrimage: first, in my personall progresse, to these famous places; and next, a second Peregrination of minde, in reuiewing the same in the Map of my owne Memory. I haue, for thy more easie vnderstanding, diuided them in sixe seuerall parts: Accept them therefore with the same loue that I offer them to thee, since they cost thee nothing but the Reading, how deere soeuer they are to mee. I could haue furnished this History with more new-coind Language, but I detest the ornament of such an ecclypsed shadow, that would obumbrate the beames of a glorious Subiect: Let other fantasticall braines dote, and prosecute the path of smooth inuented phrases, and new deuised diriuations; to soare aloft with the waxed feathers of flitghthered eloquence, wanting matter, which is the heart of the worke: I haue in my owne disposition, and for thy better satisfaction (Gentle Reader) set downe the same in the vulgar tongue of this Northerne Ile; Protesting, if [Page] (peraduenture) I finde thy kind acceptance, I shall produce to thy eyes, the second Lampe of this new light, which shall sh [...]w thee the distance of miles from place to place, and the valew of money in euery Kingdome, Dukedome, Republique, Territory, or Iland, wheresoeuer I haue beene; with the particular narration of the great Tributes and Charges a Trauellour must defray in such a voyage; which for the present I haue abridged, and partly omitted, for diuers weighty causes. As for these gnawing wormes, which carpe the merites of brauer Spirits, and contemne that vertue in others, that they cannot attaine vnto themselues, I craue they would forbeare their sinistruous censure, vntill such time, that by their owne industry, they atchieue the like attempts: Wishing such like vomiters of venome no greater punishment, then to be plagued with the experience of that which I sustained in my Trauailes.

Thine as thou merites, W. Lithgow.

To my deere friend, Countriman and Condisciple, WILLIAM LITHGOVV.

[Page]

REst Noble Spirits in your Natiue Soiles,

Whose high-bred thoughts on deare-bought fights are bent;

Renowned LITHGOVV by his braue attempt

Hath eas'd your bodies of a world of toyles.

Not like to some, who wrongfully retaine

Gods rarest gifts within themselues ingrost,

But what thou hast attain'd with care and cost,

Thou yeeldst it gratis to the world againe.

Vpon the bankes of wonder-breeding Clide,

To these designes thy heart did first assent;

One way, indeed, to giue thy selfe content,

But more to satisfie a world beside.

Thy first attempt in excellence of worth,

Beyond the reach of my conceits confinde,

But this thy second pilgrimage of minde,

Where all thy paines are to the world set forth

In Subiect, Frame, in Methode, Phrase, and Stile,

May match the most vnmacthed in this Ile:

But this renownes thee most, t'haue still possest

A constant heart within a wandring brest.

ROBERT ALLEN.

To his most affectionate friend, W. Lithgow.

NO Arabs, Turkes, Moores, Sarazens, nor strangers,

Woods, Wildernesse, and darke vmbrag'ous caues,

No Serpents, Beasts, nor cruell fatall dangers,

Nor sad regrates of ghostly groning graues,

Could thee affright, disswade, disturbe, annoy

To venture life to winne a world of ioy.

This Worke, which pompe-expecting eyes may feed▪

To vs, and Thee, shall perfect pleasure breed.

W. A.

A Dire made by the Pilgrime in the Ile Nigroponti, when hee was constrained by Greekes to keepe Centinell sixe dayes (according to the times) who then stood in feare of two Turkish Gallies.

[Page]

Carmina secessum scribentis, & otia quaerunt

Me mare, me venti, me fera iactat hyems.

I Wander in exile,

As though my Pilgrimage

Were sweet Comedian Scoenes of loue

Vpon a golden Stage.

Ah I, poore I, distressd,

Oft changing to and fro,

And forc'd to sing sad Obsequies

Of this my Swan-like woe.

A vagabonding Guest,

Transported here and there,

Led with the mercy-wanting windes

Of feare, griefe, and despaire.

Thus euer-mouing I,

To restlesse iourneyes thral'd,

Obtaines by Times triumphing frownes,

A calling vnrecal'd:

Was I praeordain'd so,

Like Tholos Ghost to stand,

Three times foure houres in twenty foure,

With Musket in my hand.

Ore-blasted with the stormes

Of Winter-beating snow,

And frosty-poynted haile-stones hard

On me poore wretch to blow.

[Page]No Architecture loe

But whirling-windy Skies,

Ore-seel'd with thundring claps of clouds,

Earths center to surprise.

I, I, it is my fate,

Alots this fatall Crosse,

And reckons vp in Characters

The time of my times losse.

My destiny is such,

Which doth predestine me

To be a mirrour of mis-haps,

A Mappe of Miserie.

Extreamely doe I liue,

Extreames are all my ioy

I finde in deepe extreamities,

Extreames extreame annoy.

Now all alone I watch

With Argoes eyes and wit.

A Cypher twixt the Greekes and Turkes

Vpon this rocke I sit.

A constrain'd Captiue I,

Mongst incompassionate Greekes,

Bare-headed downeward bowes my head,

And libertie still seekes.

But all my sutes are vaine,

Heauen sees my woefull state:

And makes me say, My worlds eye-sight

Is bought at too high rate.

Would God I might but liue

To see my natiue soyle:

Thrice happy in my wish,

To end my endlesse toyle:

Yet still when I record

The pleasant bankes of Clide,

Where Orchards, Castles, Townes, and Woods,

Are planted by his side.

And chiefly Lanerke thou

[...]

§

§

§

[Page]

the latter Age. Philosophers, Poets, Historiographers, and learned Diuines, how they haue peregrinated to know the life of States, and the fashions of farre Countries would be an endlesse taske for me to relate. Many (I confesse) long to see the remotest regions of the earth, but dare not vndertake the dangers of sight, the chargeable expences of tributarie iourney, the hard indurance of flint-stones for a soft feather-bed, the extremities of thirst, nor the parching heate of the Sunne, hunger in the belly, nor the moist distilling dew to bee a humide couerlet to their tender skin, with innumerable other insuing miseries. But Ixion-like, mistaking Iuno, would by a meere imagination, run out the sleeping course of an endlesse peregrination. For my part, what I haue reaped, is by a deere-bought knowledge, as it were, a small contentment, in a neuer contenting subiect, a bitter pleasant taste of a sweet-seasoned sowre, and all in all, what I found was more then ordinaray reioycing, in an extraordinary sorrow of delights. The contemplation of this delightfull and painfull pilgrimage, did incite my minde to aduenture vpon my meditated attempts; not onely for my owne contentment, but also to animate other forward spirits to the like resolute designes. The commodity of which being by mee duly pondered and weighed (as it were) in the ballance of my owne contemplating thoughts, from Paris, Anno Domini 1610. I attempted my voyage, bequeathing my procéedings to the protection of God, my body to turmoiling paines, my hands to the Burdon, and my féete to the hard bruising way: And as vnwilling to make relation of my passing through France, Sauoy, the Ligurian Alpes, and almost all Italy, fith it is manifested vnto many in this Iland both by sight and report, I would shunne, so farre as possible I can, all prolixitie of knowne, and therefore vnnecessary discourse. Upon the 40 day after my departure from Paris, I arriued at Rome, of which I will memorize some rarest things, [...] & so procéed. This Cittie of Rome, now extant, is not that old Rome which Romulus founded, for [Page] after the Monarchy of the Romanes had attained to the full height, the Gothes, a base and vnknowne people, displaying their banner against this glorious and imperiall Citie,, in the end razed, and subuerted thier Palaces, equalizing the Walles with the ground. After the which detriment and ouer-throw (the late subdued Romanes recouering their ruinous habitation) were inforced to withdraw the scituation of the Towne a little more downeward, neere the bankes of Tybris: And transported the stones of these ransacked buildings, to re-edifie their new dwelling places.

Hic vbi nunc Roma est, olim fuit ardua silua,

Tanta (que) res paucis, pascua bobus erat.

Many haue wrote of the singularities of old Rome, and I will also receite some decayed Monuments thereof, which I haue séene: The speciall obiect of antiquitie I saw, being neuer a whit decayed to this day, is the Templum omnium Deorum, but now, omnium Sanctorum, builded in a rotundo, and open at the toppe, with a large round, like to the queire of the holy graue. A pretty way from this, are the remainants of that ancient Amphitheater beautified with great Columnes, of a wonderfull bignesse and height; the reason why it was deuised, the Ghosts of the slaughtered Sabines may testifie. To be briefe, I saw the decaied house of worthy Cicero, the high Capitoll, the Palace of cruell Nero, Monuments of Antiquitie. the Statues of Marcus Aurelius, Alexander and his horse Bucephalus. The gréene Hill like vnto mount Cauallo, that was made of the Pottars shards at one time, which brought the tributary gold to this imperiall seate, the seuen Hilles whereon shee standes, and their seuen Pyramides, the Castle S. Angello, which Adrian first founded, and their doubtfull transported Reliques from Ierusalem, with many other things I diligently remarked, some whereof were friuolous, some ambiguous, and some famous. Besides all these, I sawe one most sight-worthy-spectacle, which was the Librarie of the ancient Romanes, being licentiated to [Page] enter with two Gentlemen, sir William Kerre, and Iames Aughtermuty my Countrey-men; where, when I was come, I beheld a world of old bookes, the first whereof was an infinite number of Gréeke Bibles, subscribed with the hands of these Fathers, who (as they say) translated them out of the Hebrew tongue.

I saw also the Academies of Aristotle, wherein he treateth of the Soule, Health, Life, Nature, and Qualities of Men, with the Medicaments of Galen for the diseases and infirmities of man: the familiar Epistles of Cicero, the Aeneidos of Virgill, the Saphick verses of that Lesbian Sapho, the workes of Ouid, Famous Authours. Plinie, Plutarch, Titus Liuius, Horatius, Strabo, Plato, Homer, Terentius, Cato, Hippocrates, Iosephus, Pythagoras, Diodorus Siculus, Eusebius, Saint Augustine, Saint Ambrose, Saint Cyprian, Saint Gregory, and likewise the workes of other excellent Philosophers, Diuines, and Poets: all wrot with their owne hands, and sealed with their owne names, and manuall subscriptions. I saw also the forme of the first ancient writing, which was vpon leaues of trées, cakes of lead, with their fingers on ashes, barkes of trees, with strange figures, and vnknowne letters, that was brought from Egypt: for the Egyptians first deuised the vse thereof, and the sight of infinite Obligatorie writings, of Emperours, Kings, and Princes, which I omit to relate, referring the same to be registred by the next beholder.

Bidding adiew to my Company, and this Librarie, I longed to view the gorgeous, Mosaicall worke of Saint Peters Church: The matter was no sooner conceiued, but I went to ye doore, yet afraid to enter, because I was not accustomed with the carriage and ceremonies of such a Sanctum Sanctorum. But at the last, abandoning all scrupolositie, I came in boldly, and on my right hand as I entred within the doore,The brasen Image of S. Peter. I espied the portrayed Image of Saint Peter, erected of pure brasse, and sitting on a brasen Chaire. The fashion of the people is this, entring the Church, they goe straight to this Idoll, and saluting with [Page] many crosses his sencelesse body, kisse his feet, and euery one of his seuerall toes: next, they lay their heads vnder the soale of his right foot; and arising, rubbe their Beades on his hard costed belly: thus adoring that breathlesse masse of mettall, more then though it were a liuing creature. O wonderfull and strange spectacle! that these onely titular Christians, should become worse of knowledge then Ethnicke Pagans, to worship and reuerence the workmanship of mens hands. Woe and shame bee vnto you all blinde hereticall Papists, why should you make to your selues Idols and Images of Iron, Siluer, Gold, Stéele, Brasse, Stone, Earth and Trée; and notwithstanding would excuse the matter with a superstitious reason, aledging, you do it onely in remembrance, where otherwise it is a damnable signe of wilfull obdurate ignorance. May not the prohibition of the second Commandement of Gods law, confound the error of this idolatry, ingrafted in your hardened hearts.

What vertue can bee in a lumpe of Brasse? or what comfort in the deuices of Handy-craftsmen? Alas, nothing but eternall sorrow and condemnation. This was one of the lamentable errours I saw in the Romane-Sea, amongst many other thousands. When the foolish Listranes or Licaoneans would haue sacrificed Buls to the honour of Paul and Barnabas, Superstition of Papists. they rent their clothes, and ran in among the people, crying, and saying; O men why doe yee these things? wee are euen men subiect to the like passions that you be: How is it then, that the Apostles being aliue, would haue no acknowledging by any homage of man; yet when they are dead, the Romanists wil worship their counterfeit similitude, in stone, or tree. What vnworthy-fained traditions, and superstitious Idolatrie? what strange new deuising trickes they vse, to plant idle Monasteriall Loyterers? How many manner of wayes these Belly-minded slaues Epicure-like leade their liues? And what a Sea of abhominable villany they swimme into, practising euen vnnaturall vices, I meane of their wrongfully [Page] called Religious Bishops, Priests, Friers, Curates, and all the hypocriticall crew, of these peruerse Iebusites; no heart can expresse, nor the most eloquent tongue, can sufficiently vnfold. But for feare of excommunication, from that Antichristian Curtezan, I dare not perseuer longer heerein: Although I can, yea, and so truely bewray their all-corrupted estate, that I neede no information of any Romane-Nouice-Traueller. Of whose sight and experience, would God all the Papists in Brittaine had the like eie-witnessing approbation as I haue had, I am certainely perswaded, with teares and sighes, they would heauily bemone the terrible fall of that Babylonian whoore, which (in a prophane estimation) is their holy mother Church. For I sincerely sweare to thée, O faithfull Christian (as the Italian vsually doth in his humours) by the golden-tripled crowne of my ghostly father, Paulo Papa Quinto, whatsoeuer, sacriledge, incest, or villanie a Papist committeth; let him come heere, and fill the bribing hands of the Simoniacall Mineons, of the thrice-crowned Priest, (for Roma non captat ouem sine lana.) And hee shall haue Indulgences, Dispensations, adioyned Pennances, or absolued Offences, for hundreds, thousands, lesse or more yeares. The period of Time, after eight and twenty daies abode, wishing my departure, I hardly escaped from the hunting of these bloud-sucking Inquisitors, of whom the most part were mine owne Countrymen: for I may iustly affirme it, man hath no worser enemy, then his owne supposed friend. And the Italian saith in his Prouerb: God keep me from the hurt of my friends, for I know well how to keepe my from mine enemies. From thence bound Eastward, I visited Naples, the commendation of which, I onely reuolue in this verse;

Inclyta Parthenope gignit Comites (que) Duces (que)

Among many other remarkable things, neere to this Citie (as Lacus Auernus, Sibillaes Caue, Purcoli; the Sulphurean Mountaine, Capua and Cuma, where banished Aeneas from Troy, and Carthage arriued) I saw the Monument [Page] of Virgils buriall, and affixed these lines therevpon;

In Mantua from mothers wombe,

I first conceiued breath;

Parthenope reserues the Tombe,

My Sepulchre of Death.

In the meane while, hauing alwaies a regard, of my hasty dispatching from Christendome, I returned, addressing my selfe to Venice for transportation. But by your leaue, let me lay downe before your eyes, some notable illusions of Madonna di Loretta, which I found in my wayfaring iourney, to amplifie my former Discourse, concerning the errours of the Roman Church, and as yet was neuer Englished in our Language.

Before I came neere to Loretta, by tenne miles, I ouertooke a Caroch, wherein were two Gentlemen of Rome, and their two Concubines; Who, when they espied me, saluted me kindly, enquiring of what Nation I was, whither I was bound, and what pleasure I had to trauell alone? After I had to these demands giuen satisfaction, they intreated me to come vp in the Caroch, but I thankefully refused, and would not, replying the way was faire, the weather seasonable, and my body vnwearied. At last they perceiuing my absolute refusall, presently dismounted on the ground,Foure Roman Pilgrimes. to recreate themselues in my company: and incontinently, the two yong vnmarried Dames, came forth also, and would by no perswasion of me, nor their familiars, mount againe; Saying, they were all Pilgrimes, and bound to Loretta (for deuotions sake) in pilgrimage, and for the penance enioyned to them by their Father Confessour. Truely, so farre as I could iudge, their pennance was small, being carryed with horses, and the appearance of deuotion much lesse: for lodging at Riginati, after supper, each youth led captiue his deerest Darling to an vnsanctified Bed, and left mee to my accustomed repose.

When the morning Star appeared, wee embraced the [Page] way marching towards Loretta, and these Uermilion Nymphs, to let mee vnderstand they trauelled with a cheerefull stomacke, would oft run races, s [...]ipping like wanton Lambes on grassie Mountaines, and quenching their follies in a Sea of vnquenchable fantasies. Approaching neare the gate of the Uillage, they pulled off their shooes and stockings, walking bare-footed through the stréetes, to this ten thousand times polluted Chappell, mumbling Pater Nosters, and Aue Mariaes on their beades. When they entred into the Church, wherein the Chappell standeth, I stood at the entry beholding many hundreds of bare-footed blinded bodies, créeping on their knées and hands: Thinking themselues not worthy to go on foote, to this idely supposed Nazaretane House, like to this saying;

Lauretum nudis pedibus, plebs crebra frequentat,

Quam mouet interius religionis amor.

Unto this falsly patronized Chappell, they offer yearely many rich gifts, amounting to an vnspeakable value, as Chaines, and Rings of Gold and Siluer, Rubies, Diamonds, silken Tapestries, and such like. The Iesuiticall and Penitentiall Fathers, receiue all, but who so enioy all, let Camera reuerenda Romana, grant certification to this Lorettan auariciousnesse, who fill their coffers twice in the yeare therewith. My foure Pilgrimes, hauing performed their ceremoniall customes, came backe laughing, and asked why I did not enter? But I, as vnwilling to shew them any further reason, demanded what the matter was? O (said the Italians) Iurando per il Cielo è Iddio Sacratissimo; This is the house wherein the Uirgin Mary dwelt in Galilee: And to the confirmation of these words shewed mee a Booke, out of which I extracted these Annotations.

Damnable illusions of Loretta.This Chappell, they hold it to bee the house, in which Mary was annunced by Gabriel, and wherein shee conceiued Iesus, by operation of the Holy Ghost. And in the meanetime, that deuotion waxed scant, amongst the Christians [Page] of the Primitiue Church in the holy Land; Many strangers tyrannizing ouer the Territories of Canaan, as Heraclius, Costroes King of Persia, Sarazens, and Harancone King of Egypt; it came to passe in the yeare of our Lord, one thousand two hundred foure score and eleuen yeares, and in the time of Pope Nicholas the fourth, that it being shaken off the foundation,A false Assertion. was transported miraculously by Angels in the night, from Nazareth in Galilee, to Torsalto in Slauonia. And in the morning, Sheepeheards comming to the place of pastorage, found this house, wherewith being astonished, they returned in hast, and told S. George Allesandro, the Prior of Torsalto, who in that meane while was lying sicke.A Simoniacall Vision. Hee being stricken in admiration with these newes, caused himselfe to be borne thither, and laid before the Altar, and falling in a maruellous trance, the Uirgin Mary by a heauenly Uision appeared to him, saying, after this manner.

§

BEhold, thou hast often pierced the heauens, with inuocations for thy reliese,A Papisticall dream'd of Oration. and now I am come, not onely to restore thee to thy health, but also to certifie thee, that thou doubt nothing of this house; for it is holy in respect of mee, the chaste immaculate Virgin, ordained before all eternitie, to be the mother of the most High: It was in this Chamber my Mother Anna conceiued me, nourished me, and brought me vp, in singing Psalmes, Hymnes, and Prayses, to the glory of God; and also I kept in this roome the blessed Infant Iesus, very God, and very Man, without any grieuance or paine, brought him vp with all dilligent obseruation: And when cruell Herod sought the Babes life, by the aduertisement of the Angell, I, and my husband Ioseph, who neuer knew my body, fled with him downe to Egypt. And after his passion, death, and ascension to Heauen, to make a reconciliation of humane nature, with the Court Celestiall: I stayed in this house with Iohn, and the other Disciple: Who considering after my death, what high mysteries had beene done in it, consecrated and conuerted the same to a [Page] Temple, for a comemoration of Christ sufferings, the chiefe of Martyres. Also that resplending image thou seest, was made by Saint Luke, (my familiar) for eternizing the memory of my portraiture as I was aliue, by the commandement of him, who doth all things, and shall conserue this sacred Image to the worlds end: That Crosse of Cedar, which standeth at the side of the little westerne Window, was made by the Apostles: These Cindars in the Chimney touch not, because they are the fragments of the last fire I made on earth: And that Shelfe whereon my linnen cloathes and prayer Bookes lay, let no man come neere it: For all these places are sanctified and holy. Wherefore my sonne, I tell thee, Awake, and go recite the same which I haue told thee vnto others; and to confirme thy beliefe therein, the Queene of heauen giueth thee freely thy health.

Frier Alexander, being rauished (say they) with this Uision, went and reported it to Nicholas Frangipano, Lord of that Country:The shamefull opinions of the Papists concerning Loretta. And incontinently hee sent this Prior and other foure Friers to Nazareth, whereby he might know the truth thereof, but in that iourney they dyed. The Uirgin Mary perceiuing their incredulity, caused Angels the second time to transport the house ouer the gulfe of Venice, to a great wood neere by the sea side, in the Territorie of Riginati. Which, when the Countrey-men had found, and remarking the splendor of the illuminating Image, dispersed these newes abroad. And the Cittizens of Riginati, hauing seene what great miracles was daily done, by the vertue of this Chappell, imposed to it this name, Madonna di Loretta. A little while after the people resorting to it with rich giftes, there haunted in the Wood many Theeues and Cut-throates, who robbed and murdered the Pilgrimes: Which innocent spilt bloud, pricking her to the heart, shee made the Angels transport it the third time, and set it on the toppe of a little Mountaine, belonging to two brethren in heritage: [Page] But they vpon a day quarrelling,Foure times transported. and discording, about the vtilitie of the Offerings to this House, the Angels did remoue it the fourth time, and placed it in a high broad way, where it standeth vnremoued to this day. This was confirmed by the Papall Authoritie to bee of an vndoubted truth,A confirmation by the Popes. after a hundred and fifty thrée yeares deliberation. Loe, as briefly as I could, haue I laid open to thy iudicious eies, the Transportations, Originall, and Papisticall Opinions of Loretta. Protesting I haue added nothing to the Authors description, but onely collected these speciall Warrants, omitting other infinite foolish toyes, conceiued for their blind-folded credulitie.

O strange and wonderfull frailetie of men! what damnable imperfections domineere ouer their braine-sicke knowledge: Sathan, thou Prince of darknesse, hast so ouer-sylled the dimmed eyes of their wretched soules, that notwithstanding Gods eternall word, ordained to call them (through the spotlesse bloud of Christ Iesus) to bee the heires and adopted Sonnes of Saluation: yet thou all-abhominable enemy of mankind, ouerthrowest both their spirituall and naturall vnderstanding in a bottomelesse Ocean of darke ignorance; promising to thy obdurate souldyers, to build Castles in the Aire; and contrarywise are busie, digging downe dungeons, to welcome thy hellish eternized guests, with horrible torments, and neuer-ceasing flames of euerlasting fire. What wilfull-hearted man, can be so apt to beleeue, that our blessed Lady, had such estimation of morter and stones, as to haue (although shee had, had power) caused Angels to transport a rotten house so often? No, I say, beléeue it who so will, questionlesse the iudgements of God in the truth of his all-seeing Iustice, shall reward their too credulous minds accordingly: Then shall they know their foolish and superstitious errours.

Leauing this,Borne at S. Andrew in Scotland. and returning to my purpose, I embarked at Ancona, in a Frigato; And by Accident heere I [Page] encountred with a most curteous, and discrete Gentleman, Iames Arthur, whose company was to mee most acceptable; our acquaintance being first made, at the beginning of the same voyage, vpon the Mountaines of Terrara in Burgundy: Hee had also beene at Rome, and bound to visite Venice, in his returning home to his natiue Countrey of North Britaine. This Citie of Ancona, in the time of Traianus the Emperour, flourished mightily in fame, and reputation, and yet a gallant place to this day;

Contemnunt omnes Anconae moenia Turcas.

Along this Adriaticke Coast, I saw no remarkeable thing, saue the two Citties Rimini and Rauenna: which were famous in the daies of Octauius Caesar, but now somewhat impouerished, in regard of diuers incursions sustained. Sayling by the mouth of Rubicon, called now Pissatello (which Iulius Caesar passed ouer, against the ordinance of the Senate, and afterward seazed vpon Rome, putting Pompeius to flight) I saw the place where the bloudy battell was fought betweene the French and Spaniards, Anno Domini one thousand fiue hundred and twelue,A battell. but the victorie fell to the Gaules, with the losse of nineteene thousand men on euery side, and they haue erected singular Monuments there, in a perpetuall memory thereof. After three daies sayling (hauing passed by Malamucko, which is the Hauen of the great Venetian shippes) wee arriued at Saint Markes place in Venice.

Cingitur vrbs Venetum pelago, ditissima nummis▪

Venice is a Garden of riches, and worldly pleasures, the chiefe floure of Common-weales, and the perfite mirrour of Ciuill and Politicke Gouernement. This sequestrat Citie, is scituate in the bosome of Neptune, and diuided from the world, with a part of his maine body, which inuironeth the Iland: The prouision of their magnificent Arsenall, Artillerie, Munition, and Armour, the diuision of stréets with Channels, the innumerable Bridges [Page] of Stone, and Timber, their accustomable kinde of liuing, apparell, curtesies, and conuentions; and finally, the glory of Gallants, Galleries, Gallies, Galleasses, and Gallouns, were a thing impossible for me briefly to relate. Wherefore since the scituation thereof, and the decorements of their beautifull Palaces, are so well knowne by the better sort, I desist, concluding thus; this incomparable mansion is the onely Paragon of all Cities in the world. In the time of my staying heere, I went forth to Lumbardy, and visited the famous Cities of Padua, Verona, and Ferrara. The commendation of which is celebrated in these verses:

Extollit Paduam, iuris studium, & medicinae.

Verona, humanae dat singula commoda vitae.

Exhaurit loculos Ferrarea ferrea plenos.

I commend the deuotion of Venice and Genua, beyond all the other Cities in Italy: A true comparison of the Iewes and the Iesuites. For the Venetians haue banished the Iesuites out of their Territories and Ilands; And the Genueses haue abandoned the society of Iewes, and exposed them from their iurisdiction. The Iewes and the Iesuites are brethren in blasphemies; for the Iewes are naturally subtill, hatefull, auaritious, and aboue all the greatest calumniators of Christs name: And the ambitious Iesuites, are Flatterers, Bloudy-gospellers, treasonable Taletellers, and the onely railers vpon the sincere life of good Christians. Wherefore I end with this verdict, the Iew, and the Iesuite is a Pultrone and a Parasite.

[Page]

A Description of the Adriaticall and Ionean Ilands, how they haue beene first named, and now gouerned, of Istria, Dalmatia, Slauonia, Epire, Peloponnesus, and Athens, of a Monster borne in Lesina, and what dangers befell him in his voyage to Creta.

AFter 24 dayes attendance, and expecting for passage, I imbarked in a Carmoesalo, being bound to Zara Noua in Dalmatia: Scarcely had we lost the sight of Venice, but wee incountred with a deadly storme at Seroco è Leuante. The maister had no compasse to direct his course, neither was hee expert in Nauigation; because they vse commonly, either on the South or North sides of the Gulfe, to hoyse vp sailes at night, and against breake of day they haue full sight of land, taking their directions from the topped hilles of the maine continent. The tempest increasing, and the windes contrary, wee were constrained to seeke vp for the Port of Parenzo in Istria.

Istria was first called Giapidia, according to Pliny: Cato affirmeth, that it was Istria of one Isiro; but by the moderne writers, l'ultima regione di Italia. By Ptolomeus it is said to be of length 120 miles, and 40 large.

That part which bordereth with the sea, belongeth to the Venetians, but the rest within land holdes of the Emperour, and the Archduke of Austria. The countrey it selfe aboundeth in Cornes, Wines, and all manner of fruits, necessary for humane life. Néere to this hauen wherein we lay, expecting roome windes; I saw the ruines of old [Page] Iustinopoli, so called of Iustinian the Emperour, who builded it vpon an Iland of a miles length, & three acres broad. And to passe betwixt the Citie and the firme land, there were seuen bridges made. It was anciently strong, but now altogether decayed. The principall Cities in Istria at this day, are these, Parenzo, Humago, Pola, Rouigno.

The winds fauouring vs, we weighed anchors, and sailed by the Iles Brioni, so much estéemed for the fine stones they produce, called Istriennes: which serue to beautifie the Uenetian Palaces. About mid-day I saw Mount di Caldaro, on the foot of which, the ancient Citie of Pola is situated, hauing a harbour wherein small shippes may lie. True it is, this Port is not much frequented, in respect of a contagious Lake neere to it, which infecteth the aire with a filthy exhalation. I saw hard by this place, the ruines of the Castell Di Oriando; the Arke triumphant, and the reliques of a great Amphitheater.Pola. This Pola was called by Pliny, Iulia pietas, and it standeth on the South-east part of Istria. Continuing our course, wee passed the perilous gulfe of Carnaro, and sailed close by the Ile Sangego, called formerly Illirides: This Ile is of circuit foure score, and of length thirty miles. Our fresh water waxing scant, and the windes falling out contrary to our expectation, we sought in to Valdogosta in the Ile of Osero, which is a safe hauen for ships and Gallies. This Osero was first named Asphorus, and then Absirtites, of a captaine Absertus, who came from Colchos, accompanied with many people, to bring backe Medeas to his father Acetus. Whose purpose being frustrated, staied still, and inhabited this land, as witnesseth Apollonius Rhodius. A fit opportunity obtained, vpon the eight day we arriued in the roade of Zara in Dalmatia; for there the Carmoesalo stayed, and I was exposed to séeke passage for Ragusa.

By the way I recall the great kindnesse of that Dalmatian Master,The kindnesse of a Dalmatian. for offering my condition, I found him more then courteous, and would haue no more but the halfe of that which was his bargaine at Venice. Besides this, hee [Page] also entertained mee three dayes, with a most bountifull and kinde acceptance: My solitary trauelling he oft bewailed, wishing me to desist, and neuer attempt such a voyage; but I giuing him absolute and constant answeres, appeased his imagined sorrow.

The affable dealing of this stranger made me remember the kindnesse of my aforesaid Countrey-man, M. Arthur, whose externall shew (for that time wee trauelled sociably together) gaue me the déepe measure of his internall affection: for as man oweth no lesse to his natiue Countrey, then what his breath and bloud are worth; so I, for many weighty considerations (and especially for that high respect) indeuoured my selfe to the vtmost of my power, to attempt this fastidious wandring, whereby I might manifest to my natiues, that zeale I bore, in vndertaking such dangers (as it were) for that neuer-conquered kingdomes sake; leauing him to bee the last witnesse of that innated duety, which I did owe vnto my deerest Nation, whether I returned or died in my atchieuements. I also recall our discontented parting at Venice, ingendred diuers languishing conceits, which I stroue to mitigate by odde deuised merriments; yet notwithstanding could not well expell his melancholy: for often at our encontrings before into Italy and France, I haue heard him sigh in a most melancholious humour, which (as I did coniecture) was for some loue-sicke passion, or some such like male-contentment, that had enforced him in pilgrimage, two times to crosse the snowy Alpes.

Zara is the Capitall Citie of Dalmatia, called of old Iadara: The inhabitants are gouerned by a Camarlingo, in the behalfe of Venice: the walles whereof are strongly rampired with earth, surpassing the toppes of the stone-worke: and fortified also with high Bulwarkes, and planted Canons on eleuated rampires of earth: which are aboue forty cubits higher then the walles and bulwars, standing in the foure seuerall corners of the Citie,

There lie continually in it, a great garrison of Soldiers, [Page] to defend the Towne and Citizens, who are maintained by the Duke of Venice: for he is Seignior thereof. They haue endured many inuasions of the Turkes, especially in the yeare 1570, when for the space of fouretéene Moneths they were daily molested and besieged, but the victory fell euer to the Christians. If the Turkes could winne this place, they might easily command the Adriaticall Seas, in regard of that faire hauen which is there, to receiue Shippes and Gallies: which maketh the Venetians not a little fearefull. Yet they licentiate the neighbouring Infidels to traffique with them; but when they enter the gates, they must deliuer their Weapons to the Corporall of the squadron company. Neither may they stay within all night, vnder the paine of imprisonment. Dalmatia was called so of Mauritius the Emperour. The foure principall Prouinces whereof are these, Atheos, Senebico, Spallato, and Tragurio. A part of which belongeth to Venice, another part to the Duke of Austria, and the third part vnto the Turkes. Zara is distant from Venice 200 miles.

From Zara I embarked in a small Frigot, bound for Lesina, with fiue Slauonian Mariners: who sometimes sailed, and sometimes rowed with their oares. In our way we past by the Ile of Brazza, which is of no great quantity, but fertile enough for the Inhabitants, and kept by a Gentleman of Venice. It lieth in the mouth of the gulfe Narento, that diuideth Dalmatia from Slauonia: Many conceiue in effect, that these two kingdomes are all one: but I hold the contrary opinion, both by experience, and by ancient Authors. Hauing passed Capo di Costa, which is the beginning of Slauonia, I saw vpon my right hand, a round rocke of a great height, in forme of a Pyramide: It is cognominated by Easterne Mariners, Pomo, anciently Salyro, for the good Faulcons that are bred therein. It standeth in the middest of the gulfe betweene Slauonia and Italy.

A little beyond that rocke I saw the thrée Iles Trimiti:The Iles Tremiti. [Page] the chiefest whereof is called Teucria, but they are vulgarly called the Iles of Diomedes, who was King of Etolla. They are right opposite to Mount Gargano, now called S. Angelo, and distant from the maine land of Pulia in Italy about nine miles.

The poore Slauonians beeing fatigated in their hunger-starued-Boat, with extraordinary paines, (for wee had thrée dayes calme, which is not vsually séene in these seas) were inforced to repose all night in the barren Ile of Saint Andrew this Ile is of circuit foure miles, but not inhabited. The excessiue raine that fell in the euening, made vs goe on shore to séeke the couerture of some rocke; which found, wee lay all night on hard stones, and with hungry bellies: for our prouision was spent. The breach of day giuing comfort to our distressed bodies with fauourable windes at the Garbo è ponente, we set forward, and about mid-day we arriued in the port of Lesina, of which the Ile taketh the name.

This Ile of Lesina is of circuit 150 miles, and is the biggest Iland in the Adriaticke sea: it is excéeding fertile, and yéeldeth all things plentifully that is requisitite for the sustenance of man. This Citie is vnwalled, and of no great quantitie, but they haue a strong fortresse, which defendeth the towne, the Hauen, and the vessels in the road. The Gouernor who was a Venetian, after he had enquired of my intended voyage, most courteously inuited mee three times to his table, in the time of my fiue dayes staying there. And at the last méeting hée reported the Story of a maruellous mis-shapen creature borne in that Iland, asking, if I would go thither to sée it: Wherewith (when I perfectly vnderstood the matter) I was contented: the Gentleman honoured mee also with his company, and a horse to ride on, where when wee came, the Captaine called for the father of that Monster,A Monster borne in Lesina. to bring him forth before vs. Which vnnaturall childe being brought, I was amazed in that sight, to behold the deformitie of Nature; for below the middle part there was but one body, and aboue [Page] the middle there was two liuing soules, each one separated from another with seuerall members. Their heads were both of one bignesse, but different in Phisnomy: the belly of the one ioyned with the posterior part of the other, and their faces looked both on one way, as if the one had carried the other on his back, and often before our eyes, he that was behinde, would lay his hands about the necke of the formost. Their eyes were excéeding bigge, and their hands greater then an infants of three times their age: the excrements of both creatures issued forth at one place, and their thighes and legges of a great growth, not semblable to their age, being but sixe and thirty dayes old; and their féet were proportionably made like the foote of a Cammell, round, and slouen in the middest. They receiued their food with an insatiable desire, and continually mourned with a pittifull noyse; that sorrowfull man told vs, that when the one slept, the other awaked, which was a strange disagréement in nature.

The Mother of them bought déerely that birth, with the losse of her owne life; and as her husband reported, vnspeakable was the torment she endured, in that woefull-wrestling paine. I was also informed afterwardes, that this one, or rather two-fold wretch, liued but a short while.

Leauing this monstrous shapen Monster to the owne strange and almost incredible natiuity, we returned to Lesina. But by the way of our backe-comming, I remember that worthy Gentleman shewed mee the ruines of an old house, where the noble King Demetrius was borne; and after I had yéelded my bounden and dutifull thankes vnto his generous minde, I hired a Fisher-boat to go ouer to Clyssa, being 12 miles distant. This Ile of Clyssa is of length twenty, and of circuit thréescore miles: it is beautified with two profitable Sea-ports, and vnder the Seigniorie of Venice. There are indifferent good commodities therein; vpon the South-side of this Iland lyeth the Ile Pelagusa.

[Page]Departing from thence in a Carmoesalo bound to Ragusa, wee sailed by the thrée Iles, Brisca, Placa, Igezi; and when we entred in the gulfe of Cataro, we fetched vp the sight of the Ile Melida, called of old Meligna: Before wee could attaine vnto the Hauen, wherein our purpose was to stay all night, we were assailed on a sudden with a deadly storme: In so much, that euery swallowing waue threatned our death, and bred in our breasts an intermingled sorrow of feare and hope. The windes becomming calme, and our desired safety enioyed, we set forward in the gulfe of Cataro, and sailed by the Ile Curzola: In this Iland I saw a Walled Towne called Curzola, which hath two strong fortresses to guard it. It is both commodious for the traffique of Merchandise they haue, and also for the fine wood that groweth there, whereof the Venetian Shippes and Gallies are made: An Iland no lesse delightfull then profitable; and the two Gouernors thereof are changed euery eightéene moneths, by the State of Venice.

It was of old called, Curcura, Melana, and of some Corcira nigra, but by the Modernes, Curzola. Continuing our course, we passed by the Iles, Sabionzello, Torquolla, and Catza Augusta, appertaining to the Republicke of Ragusa. They are all three well inhabited, and fruitfull, yeelding cornes, wines, and certaine rare kinds of excellent fruits. It is dangerous for great vessels to come neere their coasts, because of the hidden shelues that lye off in the Sea, called Augustini, where diuers shippes haue been cast away in foule weather; vpon the second day after our loosing from Clyssa, we arriued at Ragusa.

Ragusa. Ragusa is a Common-weale, gouerned by Senators, and a Senate Councell: it is wonderfull strong, and also well guarded, being situate by the sea side, it hath a fine hauen, and many goodly ships thereunto belonging. The greatest traffique they haue, is with the Genueses: Their territorie in the firme land is not much, in respect of the neighbouring Turkes, but they haue certaine commodious [Page] Ilands, which to them are profitable: And notwithstanding, of the great strength, and riches they possesse, yet for their better safegard, and liberty, they pay a yeerely tribute vnto the great Turke, amounting to foureteene thousand Chickenes of Gold: yea, and also they pay yeerely a tributarie pension vnto the Venetians, for the Iles reserued by them in the Adriaticall Gulfe. The most part of the ciuill Citizens, haue but the halfe of their heads bare, but the baser sort are all shauen.

This Citie is the Metropolitan of the Kingdome of Slauonia: Slauonia was first called Liburnia, next, Iliria, of Iliro the son of Cadmus: But lastly, named Slauonia, of certaine slaues, that came from Sarmatia passing the riuer Danubio, in the time of the Emperour Iustinian. So much as is called Slauonia, extendeth from the Riuer Arsa in the West, the Riuer Drino in the East, on the South bordereth with the Gulfe of Venice, and on the North with the Mountaines of Croatia: These Mountaines diuide also Ragusa from Bosna.

The next two speciall Cities in that Kingdome, are Sabenica, and Salona. The Slauonians are of a robust nature, martiall, and valiant fellowes, and a great helpe to maintaine the right and liberty of the Venetian state. From Ragusa I embarked in a Tartareta, loaden with cornes, and bound to Corfu, being thrée hundred miles distant.

In all this way we found no Iland, but sayled along the maine Land of the Ilirian shore: hauing passed the Gulfe of Cataro, and Capo di Fortuna, I saw Castello nouo, which is a strong Fortresse, situate on the top of a Rocke: wherein one Barbarisso, the Captaine of Solyman, starued to death foure thousand Spaniards. Hauing left Iliria and Valona behind vs, wee sayled by Capo di Polone. This high land is the furthest part of the Gulfe of Venice, and opposite against Capo di Sancta Maria, in Pulia, each one in sight of an other, and foureteene leagues distant. Continuing our nauigation, we entred into ye Sea Ionium, and sayled along the coast of Epire, which was the famous [Page] Kingdome of the Epirotes. This is the first land of Greece, and vpon the sixt day after our departure from Ragusa, wée arriued at Corfu.

Corfu. Corfu is an Iland, no lesse beautifull, then inuincible: It lyeth in the Sea Ionean, the inhabitants are Greekes, and the Gouernours Venetians: This Ile was much honoured by Homer, for the pleasant Gardens of Alcino, which were in his time: It is of circuit one hundred and twenty, and fifty miles in breadth. The Citie Corfu, from which the Ile hath the name, is situate at the foote of a Mountaine, whereupon are builded two strong Fortresses, and inuironed with a naturall Rocke:Two strong Castles in the Ile Corfu. The one is called Fortezza noua, and the other Fortezza Vechia: They are well gouerned, and circumspectly kept, least by the instigation of the one Captaine, the other should commit some treasonable effects: And for the same purpose, the Gouernours of both Castles, at their election before the Senatours of Venice, are sworne; neither priuately nor openly, to haue mutuall conference; nor to write one to another, for the spare of two yeares, which is the time of their gouernement. These Castles are inaccessible, and vnconquerable, if that the Keepers bee loyall, and prouided with naturall and martiall furniture. They are vulgarly called, The Forts of Christendome, by the Greekes, but more iustly, The strength of Venice: For if these Castles were taken by the Turkes, the Trade of the Venetian Marchants would bee of none account; yea, the very meane to ouerthrow Venice it selfe.

From thence, I embarked in a Greekish Carmoesalo, with a great number of passengers, Greekes, Slauonians, Italians, Armenians, and Iewes, that were all mindfull to Zante, and I also of the like intent; being in all forty eight persons: hauing roome, winds, and a fresh gale, in foure and twenty houres, wee discouered the Ile Cephalonia: In this meane while the Captaine of the Uessell, espied a Saile comming from the Sea, hee presently being moued therewith, sent a Mariner to the top, who certified him she was [Page] a Turkish Gally of Biserta, prosecuting a straight course to inuade our Barke. Which sudden affrighting newes, ouerwhelmed vs almost in dispaire. Resolution being, by the amazed Maister, demanded of euery man what was best to do; some replyed one way, and some another: Insomuch that the most part of the passengers, gaue counsell, rather to render, then fight; being confident, their friends would pay their ransome, and so releiue them. But I, the wandring Pilgrime, pondring in my pensiue breast, my solitary estate, the distance of my Country and Friends, could conceiue no hope of deliuerance. Upon the which troublesome and fearefull appearance of slauery, I absolutely arose, and spoke to the Maister, saying: The halfe of the Carmoesalo is your owne, and the most part also of the loading (all which hée had told mee before) Wherefore my counsell is, that you prepare your selfe to fight, and goe encourage your passengers, promise to your Mariners double wages, make ready your two peeces of Ordinance, your Muskets, Powder, Lead, and halfe-pikes: For who knoweth, but the Lord may deliuer vs from the thraldome of these Infidels. My exhortation ended, hee was greatly animated therewith,A preparation to fight. and gaue me thankes; whereupon, assembling the passengers and Mariners, hee gaue good comfort, and large promises to them all: So that their affrighted hopes were conuerted to a couragious resolution; seeming rather to giue the first assault, then to receiue the second wrong.

To performe the plots of our defence, euery man was busie in the worke, some below in the Gunner-roome, others cleansing the Muskets, some preparing the powder and Balles, some dressing the halfe-pikes, and others making fast the dores aboue: for so the Maister resolued to make combate below, both to saue vs from small shot, and besides for boording vs on a sodaine. The dexterous courage of all men was so forward to defend their liues and liberty, that truely in my opinion wee seemed thrise as many as we were. All things below and aboue being cunningly [Page] perfected, and euery one ranked in order with his Harquebuse and Pike, to stand on the Centenall of his owne defence, wee recommended our selues into the hands of the Almighty, and in the meane while attended their fiery salutations.

The assault of a Turkish Galley.In a furious spleene, the first Hola of their courtesies, was the progresse of a martiall conflict, thundring forth a terrible noise of Gally-roaring péeces. And wee in a sad reply, sent out a backe-sounding eccho of fiery-flying shots, which made an equiuox to the clouds, rebounding backe-ward in our perturbed breasts, the ambiguous sounds of feare and hope. After a long and doubtfull fight, both with great and small shot (night parting vs) the Turkes retired till morning, and then were mindefull to giue vs the new rancounter of a second Alarme. But, as it pleased him, who neuer faileth his, to send downe an vnresistable tempest; about the breake of day we escaped their furious designes, and were enforced to seeke into the bay of Largostolo in Cephalonia; both because of the violent weather, and also for that a great leake was stricken into our ship. In this fight there were of vs killed three Italians, two Greekes, and two Iewes, with eleuen others deadly wounded, and I also hurt in the right Arme, with a small shot. But what harme was done by vs amongst the Infidels, wee were not assured thereof; saue onely this, we shot away their middle Mast, and the hinder part of the Puppe: For the Greekes are not expert Gunners, neither could our Harquebusadoes much annoy them, in respect they neuer boorded: But howsoeuer it was, being all disbarked on shore, we gaue thankes to the Lord for our vnexpected safety, and buried the dead Christians in a Greekish Church-yard, and the Iewes were interred by the Sea-side.

This Bay of Lorgostolo is two miles in length, being inuironed with two little Mountaines: vpon the one of these two, standeth a strong Fortresse, which defendeth the passage of the narrow Gulfe. It was here that the Christian [Page] Gallies assembled, in the yeare 1571 when they came to abate the rage of the great Turkes Armado; which, at that time lay in Peterasso, in the firme land of Greece, and had made conquest the yeare before, of noble Cyprus from the Venetians.

This Ile of Cephalonia was formerly called Ithaca, and greatly renowmed, because it was the heretable Kingdome of the worthy Vlysses, who excelled all other Greekes in eloquence and subtlety of wit. Secondly, by Strabo it was named Dulichi: And thirdly, by ancient Authours Cephalonia, of Cephalo, who was Captaine of the Army of Cleobas Anfrittion: The which Anfrittion, hauing conquered the Iland, gaue it in a gift to Cephalo: The Land it selfe is full of Mountaines, yet excéeding fertile, yeelding Maluasie, Muskadine, Vino Leatico, Raisins, Oliues, Figges, Hony, Sweet-water, Pine, Molbery, Date, and Chypre-trees, and all others forts of fruits in aboundance. The commodity of which redounds yearely to the Veneians; for they are Signiors thereof.

Leauing this weather-beaten Carmoesalo, laid vp to a full Sea, I tooke purpose to trauell through the Iland: In the first daies iourney, I past by many fine Uillages, and pleasant fields, especially the vale Alessandro, where the Greekes told me, their Ancestors were vanquished in battell by the Macedonian Conquerour. They also shewed me, on the top of Mount Gargasso, the ruines of that Temple, which had beene of old dedicate to Iupiter: And vpon the second day I hired two Fisher-men in a little Boat, to carry mee ouer to Zante, being twenty fiue miles distant.

The Ile of Zante was called Zachinthus, Zante. because so was called the son of Dardanus, who raigned there. And by some, Hyria. It hath a Citie of a great length, bordering along the Sea side; and on the top of a Hill, aboue the Towne, standeth a large, and strong Fortresse (not vnlike to the Castle of Milaine) wherein the Prouiditore dwelleth, who gouerneth the Iland. This Citie is subiect yearely [Page] to fearefull Earth-quakes, especially in the months of October and Nouember, which oftentimes subuert their houses, bringing harme and domage to them. This Ile produceth good store of Raisin de Corinth, commonly called Currance, Oliues, Pomgranates, Cytrones, Orenges, Lemmons, Granadiers and Mellones. The Ilanders are Greekes, a kind of subtile people, and great dissemblers; but the Signiory thereof belongeth to Venice. And if it were not for that great prouision of Corne, which is daily transported from the firme Land of Greece to them, the Inhabitants in a short time would famish. Bidding farewell to Zante, I embarked in a Frigato, going to Peterasso in Morca, which of old was called Peloponnesus: And by the way in the Gulfe Lepanto, (which diuideth Etolia and Morca: The chiefest Citie in Etolia is called Lepanto: from thence Westward by the Sea-side, is Delphos famous for the Oracle of Apollo) wee sayled by the Iles Echinidi, but by the Moderne Writers, Curzolari; where the Christians obtained the victorie against the Turkes, for there did they fight, after this manner.

The battell betweene the Christians and Turkes at Lepanto.In the yeare 1571, and the sixth of October, Iohn Duke of Austria, Generall for the Spanish Gallies, Marco Antonio Colonna, for Pope Pio Quinto; and Sebastiano Venieco for the Uenetian Army, conuened altogether in Largostolo at Cephalonia: hauing of all 208 Gallies, sixe Galleasses, and fiue and twenty Frigotes. After a most resolute deliberation, these thrée Generals went with a valiant courage to encounter with the Turkish Armado, on the Sunday morning, the seuenth of October; who in the end, through the helpe of Christ, obtained a glorious victorie. In that fight there was taken and drowned 180. of Turkish Gallies; and there escaped about the number of sixe hundred and fifty Shippes, Gallies, Galeots, and other Uessels: There was fiftéene thousand Turkes killed, and foure thousand taken prisoners, and twelue thousand Christians deliuered from their slauish bondage. In [Page] all, the Christians loosed but eleuen Gallies, and fiue thousand slaine. At their returne to Largostolo, after this victorious battell, the thrée Generals diuided innumerable spoyles, to their well-deseruing Captaines, and worthy Souldiers.

After my arriuall in Peterasso, the Metropolitan of Peloponnesus, I left the turmoyling dangers of the intricated Iles of the Ionean and Adriaticall Seas, and aduised to trauaile in the firme Land of Greece, with a Carauan of Greekes, that was bound for Athens. But before hee admitted mee into his company, hee was wonderfull inquisitiue, for what cause I trauelled alone, and of what Nation I was? To whom I soberly excused, and discouered my selfe with modest answeares: Which pacified his curiosity, but not his auaritious minde; for vnder a pretended protection he had of mee, he extorted the most part of my money from my purse, without any regard of conscience.

In the first, second, and third daies iournying, wee had faire way, hard lodging, but good cheere, and kinde entertaiment for our money: But on the fourth day, when we entred in the Hilly and barren Country of Arcadia;Although Arcadia in former times was pleasant, yet it is now for the most part, wast and disinhabited. where, for a daies iourney we had no village, but saw aboundance of Cattell without keepers. In this Desart way, I beheld many singular Monuments and ruinous Castles, whose names I knew not, because I had an ignorant guide: But this I remember, amongst these Rockes, my belly was pinched, and wearied was my body, with the climing of fastidious Mountaines, which bred no small griefe to my breast. Yet notwithstanding of my distresse, the remembrance of those sweete seasoned Songs, of Arcadian Shepeheards which pregnant Poets haue so well penned, did recreate my fatigated corps, with many sugred suppositions. These sterile bounds being past, wee entred in the Easterne plaine of Morea, Lacedemon in Sparta. called aunciently Sparta, where that, sometimes, famous Citie of Lacedemon flourished, but now sacked, and the lumps of ruines and [Page] memory onely remaines. Marching thus, we left Modena, and Napoli, on our right hand, toward the Sea-side, and on the sixt day at night, wee pitched our Tents in the disinhabited Uillages of Argo and Micene, from the which, vnhappy Helene was rauished. Heere I had the ground to be a pillow, and the world-wide-fields to bee a Chamber, the whirling-windy-skies, to bee a roofe to my Winter-blasted lodging, and the humide vapours of cold Nocturna, to accompany the vnwished-for-bed of my repose.

In all this Country I could find nothing, to answere the famous relations, giuen by ancient Authors, of the excellency of that Land, but the name onely; the barbarousnesse of Turkes and Time, hauing defaced all the Monuments of Antiquity: No shew of honour, no habitation of men in an honest fashion, nor possessours of the Country in a Principalitie. But rather prisoners shut vp in prisons, or addicted slaues to cruell and tyrannicall Maisters: So deformed is the state of that once worthy Realme, and so miserable is the burthen of that afflicted people: Which, and the apparance of that permanency, grieued my heart to behold the sinister working of blind Fortune, which alwaies plungeth the most renowmed Champions and their memory, in the profoundest pit of all extremities and obliuion.

Departing from Argo, vpon the seuenth day we arriued at Athens: Athens is still inhabited, standing in the East part of Peloponnesus, neere to the Frontiers of Macedon: It was first called Cecropia, and lastly Athens of Minerua. This Citie was the mother and wel-spring of all liberall Artes and Sciences,Athens. but now altogether decayed: The circuit of old Athens hath béen, according to the fundamentall walles yet extant, about sixe Italian miles, but now of no great quantity, nor many dwelling houses therein. They haue aboundance of all things, requisite for the sustenance of humane life, of which I had no small proofe: for these Athenians, or Greekes, exceeding kindly banquetted [Page] me foure dayes,Kinde Athenians. and furnisht me with necessary prouision for my voyage to Creta. And also transported me by sea in a Brigandino fréely to Serigo, being foure and fortie miles distant.

After my redounded thankes, they hauing returned, the contemplation on their curtesies brought me in remembrance, how curious the old Athenians were to heare of forraigne newes, and with what great regard and estimation they honored trauellers. Serigo is an Iland in the sea Cretico: it was anciently called Cytherea of Cythero the sonne of Phaenise: and of Aristotle Porphyris, or Schotera, in respect of the fine marble that is got there. It is of circuit 60 miles, hauing but one Castle called Capsallo, which is kept by a Venetian Captaine. Here it is said, that Venus did first inhabit, and I saw the ruines of her demolished Temple on the side of a mountaine yet extant. A little more downward below this Temple of Venus, are the reliques of that Palace, wherein Menelaus did dwell, who was King of Sparta, and Lord of this Ile. The Greekes of the Ile told mee, there were wilde Asses there, who had a stone in their heads, which was a soueraigne remedy for the falling sicknesse, and good to make a woman be quickly deliuered of her birth.

In the time of my abode, at the village of Capsalo (being a hauen for small barkes, and situate below the Castle) the Captaine of that same fortresse kild a Seminary Priest whom he had found in the night with his whoore in a Brothel-house:A Priest killed in a Brothell-house, lying with a whoore. for the which sacrilegious murther, the Gouernor of the Ile deposed the Captaine, and banished him, causing a boat to be prepared to send him to Creta. O, if all the Priests which do commit incest, adultery, and fornication, (yea and worse, Il peccato carnale contra natura) were thus handled, and seuerely rewarded; what a sea of Sodomiticall irreligious bloud would ouer-flow the halfe of Europe, to staine the spotted colour of that Romane Beast. Truly, and yet more, these lasciuious Friers are the very Epicures, or off-scourings of the earth; for how oft haue I [Page] heard them say one to another? Allegre, allegre, mio caro fratello, chi ben mangia, ben beue, &c. that is, Be cheerful, be cheerful, deere brother, he that eateth wel, drinketh wel; he that drinketh wel, sleepeth wel, he that sleepeth wel sinneth not; & he that sins not, goeth straight through Purgatory to Paradice. This is all the care of their liuing, making their tongues to vtter what their hearts do thus prophanely thinke, Ede, bibe, dormi, post mortem nulla voluptas. In the aforesaid boate I also embarked with the Captaine, and sailed by the Ile Serogota. Leauing Capo di Spada, on our left hand wee arriued at Carabusa with extreame fortune, being fiercely pursued by thrée Turkish Galliots.

A Description of the Kingdome of Creta, of his dangers and hard fortunes amongst the Iles Syclades, of Thessaly, Mecadonia, the hill Pernassus, Achaia, Tenedos, Troy, Phrygia, Colchos, Sestos and Abidos, the Gulfe of Hellespont, and of his voyage to Constantinople.

THe Ile of Candy was called Creta: It is a most famous and ancient Kingdome: By Moderne Writers, it is Quéene of the Iles Mediterrene. It had of old a hundred Cities, whereof it had the name Hecatompolis, but now onely foure, Candia, Canea, Rhethimos, and Schythia, the rest are but Uillages and Bourges. It is of length, to wit, from Capo Ermico in the West, called by Plinie, frons arietis, and Capo Salomone in the East, 240 miles, large thréescore, and of circuit 650 miles. This is the chiefest dominion belonging to the Venetian republicke: In euery one of these foure Cities there is a Gouernour and two Counsellors sent from Venice euery two yeares. The [Page] Countrey is diuided into foure parts,A description of Candie. vnder the iurisdiction of the foure Cities, for the better administration of iustice: and they haue a General, who commonly remaineth in the Citie of Candy (like to a Uiceroy) who deposeth or imposeth Magistrates, Captaines, Souldiers, Officers, and others whatsoeuer, in the behalfe of Saint Marke, or Duke of Venice. The Venetians detaine continually a strong guard, diuided into Companies, Squadrons and Garisons, in the Cities and Fortresses of the Iland, which do extend to the number of twelue thousand Souldiers, kept, not only for the incursion of Turks, but also for feare of the Cretans, or inhabitants, who would rather (if they could) render to the Turke, then to liue vnder the subiection of Venice. This Ile produceth the best Maluosey, Muscadine, and Leaticke, that supposedly are in the world. It yeeldeth Orenges, Lemmons, Mellons, Cytrons, Grenadiers, Adams Apples, Raisins, Oliues, Dates, Honey, Sugar, Vua di tre volte, and all other kindes of fruit in aboundance. But the most part of their Cornes are brought yearely from Archipelago and Greece. Thus much of the Ile in generall; and now in respect of my trauelling two times through the boundes of the whole Kingdom, which was neuer before atchieued by any Traueller of Christendome, I will as briefly as I can in particular, relate a few of these miseries indured by me in this land, with the nature and quality of the people.

The aforesaid Carabusa is the principal fortresse of Creta, being of it selfe inuincible, and is not vnlike to the Castle of Dunbertan, which standeth at the mouth of Clyd; vpon which riuer the most worthy,The old and famous Citie of Lanerke. renowned, and anciently enobled Citie of Lanerke is situated. For it is inuironed with a rocke higher then the walles, and ioyneth with Capo Ermico: hauing learned of the théeuish way I had to Canea, I aduised to put my money in exchange, which the Captaine of that strength very curteously performed; and would also haue disswaded me from my purpose, but I by no perswasion of him would stay. From thence departing, [Page] scarcely was I aduanced twelue miles in my way, when I was beset on the skirt of a rockie mountaine, with three Greeke Renegadoes, and an Italian Bandido: who laying hands pn me, beat mee most cruelly, robbed me of all my clothes, and stripped me naked, vsing many inuectiue spéeches. At last the Italian perceiuing I was a stranger, and could not speake the Cretan tongue, began to aske mee in his owne language, where was my money? To whom I soberly answered, I had no more then he saw, which was foure score bagantines: but he not giuing credit to these words, searched all my cloathes and Budgeto, yet found nothing except my linnen, and letters of recommendation, I had from diuers Princes of Christendome: which when he saw, did moue him to compassion, and earnestly intreated the other thrée theeues to grant me mercy, and saue my life. A long deliberation being ended, they restored backe againe my Pilgrimes cloathes, and letters, but my blew Gowne and Bagantines they kept. Such also was their théeuish curtesie towards me, that for my better safe-guard in the way, they gaue me a stamped péece of clay, as a token to shew any of their companions, if I encountred with them; for they were about twenty rascals of a confederate band,A happy deliuerance from Theeues. that lay in this desart passage. Leauing them, with many counterfet thankes, I trauelled that day seuen and thirty miles, and at night attained to the vnhappy village of Pickehorno, where I could haue neither meate, drinke, lodging, nor any refreshing to my wearied body. These desperate Candiots thronged about me gazing (as though astonished) to sée mee both want company, and their language, and by their cruell lookes they séemed to be a barbarous and vnciuill people: For all these High-landers of Candy are tyrannicall, blood-thirsty and deceitfull. The consideration of which made me to shun their villany, and priuatly sought for a secure place of repose in a darke caue by the sea side; in which I lay till morning with a crazed body, and a hungry belly.

Upon the appearing of the next Aurora, I embraced my [Page] vnknowne way, and about mid-day came to Canea: Canea is the second Citie of Creet, excéeding populous, well-walled, and fortified with Bulwarkes: It hath a large castle, containing ninty seuen Palaces, in which the Rector and other Venetian Gentlemen dwell. There lie continually in it seuen Companies of Souldiers, who keep Centenall on the walles, guard the gates, and market-places of the Citie: Neither in this towne nor Candia, may any Countrey Peasant enter with weapons (especially Harquebuses) for that conceited feare they haue of treason. Truely this City may equall in strength, either Zara in Dalmatia, or Luka, or Ligorne, both in Tuscana: for these foure Cities are so strong,Foure strong Citie. that in all my trauels I neuer saw them matched. They are all well prouided with Artillery, and all necessary things for their defence, especially Luka, which continually reserues in store prouision of victuals for 12 yeares siege. Being here disappointed of transportation to Archipelago, I aduised to visit Candy; and in my way I saw the large hauen of Suda, which hath no town or village, saue onely a castle situated on a rocke in the sea, at the entry of the Bay: the bounds of that harbour may receiue at one time aboue 2000 ships and gallies, and is the onely key of the Iland: for which place the King of Spaine hath oft offered an infinite deale of mony to the Venetians, whereby his nauy which sometimes resort in the Leuante, might haue accesse and reliefe; but they would neuer grant him his request.

Upon the third dayes iourney from Canea, I came to Rethimos; This Citie is somwhat ruinous and vnwalled, but the Citizens haue newly builded a strong Fortresse, which defendeth them from the inuasion of Pirates. It standeth by the Sea side, and in the yeare 1597, it was miserably sacked and burned with Turkes. Continuing my voyage, I passed along the skirt of mount Ida, accompanied with Greekes who could speake the Italian tongue, on which first they shewed me ye caue of king Minos, but some hold it to be the sepulcher of Iupiter. This groto is of length [Page] 80 paces,Minos. and 8 large. This Minos was said to be the brother of Radamanthus, and Sarpedon; who, after their succession to the kingdome, established such equitable lawes, that by Poets they are faigned to be the Iudges of Hell. I saw also there, the place where Iupiter (as they say) was nourished by Amalthes, which by Greekes is recited, as wel as Latine Poets.

Saturne.Thirdly, they shewed me the Temple of Saturne, which is a worke to be admired, of such Antiquity, and as yet vndecayed; who, (say they) was the first King that inhabited there. And néere to it, is the demolished Temple of Matelia, hauing this superscription aboue the doore yet to be séene: Make cleane your feet, wash your head, and enter. Fourthly, I saw the entry to the Laborinth of Dedalus, which I would gladly haue better viewed, but because we had no candle-light we durst not enter: for there are many hollow places within it, so that if a man stumble or fall, hee can hardly be rescued. It is cut forth with many intricating wayes, on the face of a little Hill, ioyning with Mount Ida.

Mount Ida is the highest mountaine in Creta, and by the computation of Shéepheards féete, amounteth to six miles of height. It is ouer-clad euen to the toppe with Cypretrées, and good store of medicinable hearbes: insomuch that the beasts which féede thereupon, haue their téeth guilded like to the colour of gold. It is said by some Historians that no venemous animall can liue in this Ile; but I saw the contrary: for I kild vpon one day, two Serpents and a Uiper: Wherefore many build vpon false reports, but experience teacheth men the truth. Descending from this mountaine, I entred in a faire plaine, beautified with many villages; in one of which I found a Grecian Bishop, who kindly presented with grapes of Maluasie, and other things, for it was in the time of Uintage. To carry these things he had giuen me, he caused to make ready an Asse, and a seruant, who went with mee to Candy, which was more then 15 miles from his house. [Page] True it is, that the best sort of Greekes, in visiting other, do not vse to come empty handed, neither will they suffer a stranger to depart without both gifts and conuoy.

Candy is a large and famous Citie,Candie. situated on a plaine by the sea side, hauing a goodly hauen for ships, and a faire Arsenall wherein are 36 Gallies. It is excéeding strong, and daily guarded with 2000 Souldiers, and the Walles in compasse are about three leagues. Candy is distant from Venice 1300 miles, from Constantinople 700. from Famagosta in Cyprus 600. from Alexandria in Egypt, 500. and from the Citie of Ierusalem 900 miles. The Candeots through all the Iland, make muster euery eighth day, before the Sergeant-Maiors, or Officers of the Generall, and are well prouided with all sorts of Armour; yea, and the most valourous people that hight the name of Greekes. It was told me by the Rector of Candy, that they may raise in Armes of the inhabitants (not reckoning the Garrisons) aboue sixtie thousand men, all able for warres, with 54 Gallies, and 24 Galleots for the sea. In all my trauels through this Realme, I neuer could sée a Greek come forth of his house vnarmed: and after such a martiall manner, that one his head he weareth a bare stéele Cap, a Bow in his hand, a long sword by his side, a broad ponyard ouerthwart his belly, and a round target hanging at his girdle. They are not costly in apparrell, for they were but linnen cloathes, and vse no shooes, but Bootes of white leather: by nature they are crafty and subtill, as Paul mentioneth, Titus. 1.12. Their haruest is our Spring: for they manure the ground, and sow the séed in October, which is reaped in March and Aprill. Being frustrate of my intention at Candy, I was forced to returne to Canea, where I staied 25 dayes before I could get passage, for I purposed to view Constantinople. I trauelled on foot in this Ile more then 400 miles; and vpon the 50 day after my first comming to Carabusa, I embarked in a fisher-boat that belonged to Milo, being a hundred miles distant, which had beene violently driuen thither with stormy weather.

[Page] Milo was called by Aristotle, Melada; and by others, Mimalida, Melos: And lastly, Milo, because of the fine Millstones that are got there, which are transported to Constantinople, Greece and Natolia. This Ile is one of the Iles Cyclades, or Sporades, but more commonly Archipelago, or the Arch-ilands, and standeth in the beginning of the Aegean sea: The inhabitants are Greekes, but slaues to the Turke, and so are all the 53 Iles of the Cyclades, saue onely Tino, which holdeth of the Venetians.

Milo.From Milo I came to Zephano, an Iland of circuit about twenty miles: The inhabitants are poore, yet kind people. There are an infinite number of Partridges within this Ile, of a reddish colour, and bigger then ours in Britaine: they are wilde, and onely kild by small shot; but I haue seene in other Ilands flockes of them feeding in the fields, and vsually kept by children: some others I haue seene in the stréetes of villages, without any kéeper, euen as Hennes do with vs. I saw fountains here that naturally yéeld fine oyle, which is the greatest aduantage the Ilanders haue.

From thence I embarked, and arriued at Angusa in Parir: This Ile is forty miles long,Parir. and six miles broad: being plentifull enough in all necessary things for the vse of of man: In Angusa I stayed 16 dayes, storme-sted, with Northerly windes; and in all that time I neuer came in bed: for my lodging was in a little Church without the village, on hard stones; where I also had a fire, and dressed my meate. The Greekes visited me oftentimes, and intreated me aboue all things, I should not enter within the bounds of their Sanctuary, because I was not of their Religion. These miserable Ilanders are a kinde of silly poore people; which in their behauiour shewed the necessity they had to liue, rather then any pleasure in their liuing. From thence I arriued in the Ile of Mecano, where I but onely dined, & so set forward to Zea. Zea was so called of Zeo, the son of Phebo; and of some Tetrapoli; because of the foure Citties that were there of old. Symonides the Poet, and Eristato [Page] the excellent Physition, were borne in it. The next Ile of any note wee touched at, was Tino: This Iland is vnder the Signorie of Venice, and was sometimes beautified with the Temple of Neptune. By Aristotle it was Idrusa; of Demosthenes, and Eschines, Erusea: It hath an impregnable Castle, builded on the top of a high Rocke; so that the Turkes by no meanes can conquer it.

From this Ile I came to Palmosa, sometime Pathmos, which is a Mountanous and barren Iland: It was heere that Saint Iohn wrote the Reuelation after hée was banished by Domitianus the Emperour. Thence I embarked to Nicaria, and sailed by the Ile Scyro; which of old was the Signory of Licomedes, and in the habit of a woman, was Achilles brought vp heere: who in that time, begot Pyrhus vpon Deidamia, the daughter of Licomedes, and where the crafty Vlysses did discouer this fatall Prince to Troy. Nicaria. As we fetched vp the sight of Nicaria, wee espied two Turkish Galleots, who gaue vs the Chace, and pursued vs, straight vnto a bay, betwixt two Mountaines, where we left the loaded Boat, and fled to the Rockes: But in our flying,Greekes taken captiues. the Maister was taken, and other two old men; whom they made captiues, and slaues: and also seized vpon the Boat, and all their goods: The number that escaped, were nine persons. This Ile Nicaria, was anciently called Doliche, and Ithiosa, and is somewhat barren; hauing no Sea-port at all: It was heere, the Poets feigned,Icarus. that Icarus the son of Dedalus fell, when as hee took flight from Creta, with his borrowed wings, of whom it hath the name. Expecting certaine daies heere, in a vilage called Lephantos, for passage to Sio, at last I found a Brigandino bound thither, that was come from the fruitfull Ile of Stalimene, of old Lemnos, wherein I embarked, and sailed by the Ile Samos, which is opposite to Caria, in Asia Minor: It is of circuit one hundred and sixty, and of length forty miles: It was of old named Dri [...]sa, and Melanphilo, in which was Phythagoras the Phylospher, [Page] and Lycaon the excellent Musitien borne.

As wee left the Ile Veneco on our left hand, and entred in the Gulfe betweene Sio, and Eolida, there fell downe a deadly storme, at the Greco è Leuante, which split our Mast, carrying Sailes and all ouer-board: Whereupon euery man looked (as it were) with the stampe of death in his pale visage. The Tempest continuing (our Boat not being able to keepe the Seas) we were constrained to seeke into a creeke, betwixt two Rockes, for safety of our liues; where, when wee entred, there was no likely-hood of reliefe: for wee had a shelfie shore, and giuing ground to the Ankors they came both home. The sorrowfull Maister seeing nothing but shipwracke, tooke the Helme in hand, directing his course to rush vpon the face of a low Rocke, whereupon the Sea most fearefully broke. As wée touched, the Marriners contending who should first leape out, some fell ouer-boord, and those that got Land, were pulled backe by the reciprocating waues: Neither in all this time durst I once moue; for they had formerly sworne, if I pressed to escape, before the rest were first forth, they would throw me head-long into the Sea: So, being two waies in danger of death, I patiently offered vp my prayers to God.

At our first incounter with the Rockes (our fore-deckes, and boates Gallery being broke, and a great leake made) the recoiling waues brought vs backe from the Shelfes a great way; which the poore Maister perceiuing, and that there were seuen men drowned, and eleuen persons aliue, cryed with a lowd voyce: Bee of good cheere, take vp Oares and row hastily; it may bee, before the Barke sinke, wee attaine to yonder Caue. Shipwracke. Euery man working for his owne deliuerance (as it pleased God) we got the same with good fortune: for no sooner were wee dis-barked, but the Boat immediate sunke. There was nothing saued but my Coffino, which I kept alwaies in my Armes; for the which of my things, the Greekes were in admiration. In this Caue, which was thirty paces long, within the Mountaine, [Page] wee abode three daies, without both meate and drink: vpon the fourth day at Morne, the Tempest ceasing, there came Fisher-boates to relieue vs, who found the ten Greekes almost famished for lacke of food; but I in that hunger-staruing feare, fed vpon the expectation of my doubtfull reliefe. True it is, a miserable thing it is for a man, to grow an example to others, in matters of affliction, yet it is necessary that some men should be so: For it pleased God, hauing showne a sensible disposition of fauor vpon mee, in humbling mee to the very pit of extremities, taught me also by such an expected deliuerance, both to put my confidence in his eternall goodnesse, and to know the frailty of my owne selfe, and my ambition, which draue me often to such disasters.

The dead men being found on shore, wee buried them; and I learned at that instant time, there were seuentéene boats cast away, on the Coast of this Iland, and neuer a man saued: in this place the Greekes set vp a stone Crosse in the memoriall of such a wofull mischance, and mourned heauily, fasting and praying. I reioycing, and thanking God for my safety (leauing them sorrowing for their friends and good) tooke iourney through the Iland to Sio, for so is the Citie called. In my way I past by an old Castle standing on a little Hill, named Gasbos, or Helias; where (as I was informed, by two Greekes in my company) the Sepulchre of Homer was yet extant: For this is one of the seuen Iles that contended for his birth:The Toombe of Homer. And I willing to see it, entreated them to accompany me thither; where we came, wee descended by sixteene degrées into a darke Cell, and passing that, wee entred in another foure-squared roome, in which I saw an ancient Toomb, whereon were ingrauen Greeke letters, which wee could not vnderstand for their antiquity; but whether it was his Toombe or not, I do not know, but this they related.

This Ile was first called Etalie, and Pythiosa: next Cios, Actes 20.15. And by Methrodorus, Chio, of Chione: but [Page] at this day Sio. Sio. Not long ago it was vnder the Genueses, but now gouerned by Turkes: It is of circuit, an hundred miles, and famous for the medicinable Masticke that groweth there on Trées: I saw many pleasant Gardens in it, which yéeld in great plenty, Orenges, Lemmons, Apples, Peares, Prunes, Figges, Oliues, Apricockes, Dates, Adams Apples, excellent hearbes, faire flowers, sweete hony, with store of Cypre and Mulbery-trees, and exceeding good silk is made heere.

The pride of Greekish Whores.The women of the Citie Sio, are the most beautifull Dames, of all the Greekes in the world, and greatly giuen to Uenery: They are for the most part excéeding proud, and sumptuous in apparell, and commonly go (euen Artificers wiues) in gownes of Sattin and Taffety; yea, of Cloth of Siluer and Gold, and are adorned with pretious stones, and Gemmes, and Iewels about their neckes, and hands: Their husbands are their Pandors, and when they see any stranger arriue, they will presently demand of him, if hée would haue a Mistresse: And so they make whores of their owne wiues, and are contented for a little gaine, to weare hornes: such are the base mindes of ignominious Cuckolds. After some certaine attendance, I embarked in a Carmoesalo, bound for Nigroponti, which was forth of my way to Constantinople; but because I would gladly haue seene Macedonia, I followed that determination: In our way wee sayled by Mytelene, an Iland of old called Isa: next Lesbos: and lastly Mytelene, of Milet the sonne of Phoebus, Pythacus, one of the seuen Sages of Greece, the most valiant Antimenides, and his brother Alceus the Poet, Theophrastus the Peripatetike Phylosopher, Arion the learned Harper, and the shee Poet Sapho, were borne in it.

The Iles Sporades, are scattered in the Egean Sea, like as the Iles Orcades are in the North Seas of Scotland; but different in clymate and fertility; for these South-easterne Iles in Summer are extreme hot, producing generally (Nigroponti excepted) but a few Wines, Fruits, and [Page] Cornes,The Iles of Orknay and Zetland. scarce sufficient to sustaine the Ilanders. But these North-westerne Ilands, in Sommer, are neither hot nor cold, hauing most wholesome and temperate aire; and doe yeeld aboundance of Corne, euen more then to suffice the Inhabitants; which is yeerely transported to the firme Land, and sold: They haue also good store of cattell, and good cheape; and the best fishing that the whole Ocean yeeldeth, is vpon the coasts of Orknay and Zetland.

In all these separated parts of the earth (which of themselues of old, made vp a little Kingdome) you shall alwaies find strong March Ale, and surpassing fine Aqua Vitae, with an infinite number of Conies, which you may kill with Crosse-bow, or Harquebuse, euery morning forth of your Chamber window, according to your pleasure in that pastime, which I haue both practised my selfe, and séene practised by others; for they multiply so excéedingly that they dig euen vnder the foundations of dwelling houses.The Orkadians are kind to strangers, boū tifull in Table-cheere, and carowsing of healthes, and their women are generally faire, kind, and well complexionate. Such is the will of God to bestow vpon seuerall places particular blessings, whereby hee demonstrateth to man, the plentifull store-house of his gracious prouidence, so many manner of waies vpon earth distributed: all glory bee to his incomprehensible goodnesse therefore. I haue seldome séene in all my trauels, more toward, and tractable people (I meane their Gentlemen) and better housekéepers; then bee these Orkadians and Zetlanders: whereof, in the prime of my adolescency (by two voyages amongst these Northerne Iles) I had the full proofe and experience.

Nigroponti was formerly called Euboea, next Albantes, and now is surnamed the Quéene of Archipelago: It is separated from the firme Land of Thessaly with a narrow channell, ouer the which in one part there is a bridge, that passeth betwéene the Ile, and the maine continent, and vnder it runneth a marueilous swift current, or tyde; Within halfe a mile of the bridge, I saw a Marble columne, standing on the top of a little rocke, whence (as [Page] the Ilanders told mee) Aristotle leaped in, and drowned himselfe, after that he could not conceiue the reason, why this Channell so ebbed, and flowed. This Ile bringeth forth in aboundance, all things requisite for humane life, and decored with many goodly Uillages. From thence I arriued at a Towne in Macedonia called Salonica, Salonica. but of old Thessalonica, where I staied fiue daies, and was much made of by the Inhabitants: It is a Citie full of rich commodities, and is the principall place of Thessaly, which is a place of Macedon, together with Achaia, and Myrmedon, which are the other two Prouinces of the same. There is an Uniuersity of the Iewes heere, who professe onely the Hebrew tongue. About this Citie is the most fertile Country in all Greece.

Greece of all the Kingdomes in Europe, hath beene most famous, and highly renowmed for many notable respects: It was first called Helles, next Grecia, of Grecus, who was once King thereof: The Greekes, of all other Gentiles, were the first conuerted Christians, and are wonderfull deuout in their professed Religion: The Priests weare the haire of their heads hanging ouer their shoulders: Those that bee the most sincere Religious men, abstaine alwaies from eating of flesh, contenting themselues with water, herbes, and bread: They differ much in ceremonies, and Principles of Religion, from the Papists, and the Computation of their Kalender, is as ours. They haue foure Patriarkes, who gouerne the affaires of their Church, and also any ciuill dissentions, which happen amongst them, viz. one in Constantinople, another in Antiochia, the third in Alexandria, and the fourth in Ierusalem. It is not néedfull for mee to penetrate further in the condition of their estate, because it is no part of my intent in this Treatise. In Salonica I found a Germe, bound for Tenedos, in the which I embarked: As we sayled along the Thessalonian shoare, I saw the two topped Hill Pernassus, where it was said the nine Muses haunted;Pernassus. but as for the Fountaine Helicon, I leaue that to be searched, and seene by the imagination [Page] of Poets: For if it had béene obiected to my sight, like an insatiable drunkard, I should haue drunke vp the streames of Poesie, to haue enlarged my poore Poeticall veine.

The Mountaine it selfe is somewhat steepe, and sterile, especially the two toppes, the one whereof is dry, and sandy, signifying that Poets are alwaies poore and needy: The other toppe is barren, and rocky, resembling the ingratitude of wretched and niggardly Patrones: the vale betweene the toppes is pleasant, and profitable, denoting the fruitfull and delightfull soyle, which painefull Poets, the Muses Plow-men, so industriously manure. A little more Eastward, as wee fetcht vp the Coast of Achaia, the Maister of the Uessell shewed mee a ruinous Uillage, and Castle, where hee said the admired Citie of Thebes had beene.

Upon the third day from Salonica, Thebes. wee arriued in the roade of Tenedos, which is an Iland in the Sea Pontus, or Propontis: It hath a Citie called Tenedos, built by Tenes, which is a gallant place, hauing a Castle, and a faire Hauen for all sorts of Uessels: It produceth good store of Wines, and the best supposed to bee in all the South-east parts of Europe. The Iland is not big, but exceeding fertile, lying thrée miles from the place where Troy stood, as Virgill reported, Aenid. 2.

Est in conspectu Tenedos, notissima fama insula.

In Tenedos I met by accident, two French Merchants of Marseills, intending for Constantinople, who had lost their ship at Sio, when they were busie at venereall tilting, with their new elected Mistresses, and for a second remedy, were glad to come thither in a Turkish Carmoesalo. The like of this I haue séene fall out with Sea-faring men, Merchants, and Passengers, who buy sometimes their too much folly, with too déere a repentance. They, and I, resoluing to view Troy, did hire a Ianisarie to bee our conductor and protector, and a Greeke to be our Interpreter. Where when we landed, wee saw heere and there many relicts [Page] of old walles, as wee trauelled through these famous bounds. And as we were aduanced toward the East part of Troy, our Greek brought vs to many Toombes, which were mighty ruinous, and pointed vs particularly to the Toombes of Hector, The Toombes of Troians. Aiax, Achilles, Troylus, and many other valiant Champions, with the Toombs also of Hecuba, Cresseid, and other Troian Dames: Well I wot, I saw infinite old Sepulchres, but for their particular names, and nomination of them, I suspend, neither could I beléeue my Interpreter, sith it is more then thrée thousand and odde yeares ago, that Troy was destroyed: He shewed vs also the ruines of King Priams palace, and where Anchises the father of Aeneas dwelt. At the North-east corner of Troy, which is in sight of the Castles of Hellesponte, there is a gate yet standing, and a péece of a reasonable high wall; vpon which I found thrée péeces of rusted money, which afterward I gaue to the two yonger brethren of the Duke of Florence.

A description of Troy.Where the pride of Phrygia stood, it is a most delectable plaine, abounding now in cornes, fruites, and wines, and may be called the garden of Natolia: yet not populous, for there are but onely fiue scattered Uillages, in all that bounds: The length of Troy hath béene, as may bee discerned, by the fundamentall walles yet extant, about twenty miles: the ruines of which are come to that Poeticall Prouerbe: Nunc seges est vbi Troia fuit.

Leauing the fields of noble Ilium, wee crossed the Riuer of Simois, and dyned at a Uillage named Extetash: I remember, discharging one couenant with the Ianisary, who was not contented with the former condition, the Frenchmen making obstacle to pay that which I had giuen, the wrathfull Ianisary be laboured them both with a cudgel, till the bloud sprung from their heads, and compelled them to double his wages. This is one true note to a Traueller (whereof I had the full experience afterward) that if hee can not make his owne part good, hee must alwaies at the first motion content these rascals, otherwise he wil be constrained [Page] doubtlesse with strokes to giue twice as much: for they make no account of conscience, nor ruled by the law of compassion, neither regard they a Christian more then a dogge: but whatsoeuer extortion or iniurie they vse against him, he must be French-like contented, bowing his head, and making a counterfet shew of thankes, and happy too oftentimes, if so he escape. Hence wee arriued at the Castles called of old Sestos, and Abydos, which are two Fortresses opposite to other,Sestos and Abydos. the one in Europe, the other in Asia, being a mile distant: They stand at the beginning of Hellesponte, and were also cognominate the Castles of Hero and Leander, which were erected in a commemoration of their admirable fidelitie in loue. But now they are commonly called the Castles of Gallipoly, yea, or rather the strength of Constantinople, betwéene which, no ship may enter, without knowledge of the Captaines. And at their returne they must stay thrée dayes before they are permitted to goe through. Betwixt the Castles and Constantinople, is about fortie leagues: Here I left the two Frenchmen with a Greeke Barbour, and imbarked for Constantinople, in a Turkish Frigato.

The first place of any note I saw, within these narrow Seas, was the auncient Citty of Gallipolis, the second seate of Thracia, which was first builded by Caius Caligula, and sometimes hath béene inhabited by the Gaules: It was the first Towne in Europe that the Turkes conquered. As we sailed betwéene Thracia and Bithinia, a learned Grecian that was in my company shewed mee Colchis, Colchis. whence Iason with the assistance of the Argonautes, and the aid of Medeas skill, did fetch the golden fléece. This Sea Hellespont tooke the name of Helles, and of the Countrey Pontus, ioyning to the same Sea, wherein are these thrée Countries, Armenia, Colchis, and Cappadocia. After wee had fetcht vp the famous Citie of Calcedon in Bithinia on our right hand, I beheld on our left hand, the prospect of that little world, the great Citie of Constantinople, which indéed yeeldeth such an outward splendor to the [Page] amazed beholder of goodly Churches, stately Towers, gallant Stéeples, and other such things, whereof now the world make so great account, that the whole earth cannot equall it. Beholding these delectable obiects, wee entred in the Channell of Bosphorus, which diuideth Perah from Constantinople. And arriuing at Tapanau, where all the munition of the great Turke lieth, I bade farewell to my company, and went to a lodging to refresh my selfe till morning.

A briefe Description of the renowned Citty of Constantinople, together with the customes, manners, and religion of the Turkes, their first beginning, and the birth of MAHOMET; and what opinion the Mahometanes haue of Heauen and Hell.

COnstantinople is the Metropolitan of Thracia, so called of Constantine the Emperour, who first enlarged the same: It was called of old Bizantium, but now by the Turkes Stambolda, which signifieth in their language,The first building of Constantinople. a large Citty. It was also called Ethuse, and by the Greekes Stymbolis. This Citty (according to ancient Authors) was first sounded by the Lacedemonians, who were conducted from Lacedemon, by one Pausanias, about the yeare of the world 3294, which after their consultation with Apollo, where they should settle their abode and dwelling place, they came to Bithinia, and builded a Cittie which was called Calcedon. But the commodity of fishing falling out contrary to their expectation, in respect the fishes were afraid of the white bankes of the Citty, the Captaine Pausanias left that place, and builded [Page] Bizantium in Thracia, which first was by him intituled Ligos. By Pliny, Iustine, and Strabo, it was surnamed Vrbs Illustrissima, because it is repleat with all the blessings earth can giue to man; yea and in the most fertile soile of Europe. Zonaras reporteth that the Athenians in an ambitious and insatiable desire of Soueraigntie, wonno it from the Lacedemonians: they thus being vanquished, suborned Seuerus the Romane Emperour to besiege the same: but the Cittie Bizantium being strongly fortified with walles, the Romans could not take it in, vntill extreame famine constrained them to yeeld after thrée yeares siege: And Seuerus to satisfie his cruelty, put all to the sword that were within,Bizantium ruined by Seuerus the Emperour. and razed the walles, giuing it in possession to the neighbouring Perinthians. This Citie thus remained in calamitie till Constantine (resigning the Citie of Rome, and a great part of Italy to the Popish inheritance of the Roman Bishops) reedified the same, and translated his Imperiall seate in the East, and reduced all the Empire of Greece to an vnite tranquility, with immortall reputation, which the Parthians and Persians had so miserably disquieted.

But these disorders at length reformed by the seuere administration of iustice, for the which, and other worthy respects, the said Constantine, sonne of S. Helen, and Emperour of Rome, (which after the Popes vsurped) was surnamed the Great. He first in his plantation called this Citie New Rome; but when hee beheld the flourishing and multiplying of all things in it, and because of the commodious situation thereof, he called it Constantinopolis, after his owne name. This Emperour liued there many prosperous yeares, in a most happy estate: Likewise many of his successors did, vntill such time that Mahomet, the second of that name, and Emherour of the Turkes, liuing in a discontented humor, to behold the great and glorious dominions of Christians, especially this famous Citie, that so flourished in his eyes, by moment all circumstances, collected his cruell intentions to the full height of ambition; [Page] whereby hee might abolish the very name of Christianity, and also puft vp with a presumptuous desire to enlarge his Empire, went with a maruellous power both by Sea and Land, vnto this magnificent mansion. The issue wherof was such, that after diuers batteries and assaults, the irreligious Infidels broke downe the walles, and entred the Citle, where they made a wonderfull massacre of poore afflicted Christians, without sparing any of the Romane kinde, either male or female. In the mercilesse fury of these infernall Impes, the Emperour Constantine was killed, whose head being cut off,The death of Constantine the Emperour. was carried vpon the poynt of a Launce, through all the Citie and Campe of the Turkes, to the great disgrace and ignominy of Christianitie. His Empresse, Daughters, and other Ladies were put to death after a strange forme of new deuised torments. By this ouerthrow of Constantinople, this Mahomet tooke twelue kingdomes, and two hundred Cities from the Christians, which is a lamentable losse, of such an illustrious Empire. Thus was that Imperiall Citie lost, in the yeare 1453. May 29. when it had remained vnder the gouernment of Christians 1198 yeares. It is now the chiefe abode of the great Turke Sultan Acomet, the 15 Grand Can, of the line of Ottoman, liuing at this day, who is about 23 yeares of age; a man more giuen to venery then martiality, which giueth presently a greater aduantage to the Persians in their instant warres.

The forme or situation of this Citie, is like vnto a triangle, the South part whereof, and the East part, are inuironed with Hellespontus, and Bosphorus Thraicus; and the North part adioyning to the firme land. It is in compasse about the Walles, estéemed to be 18 miles: in one of these triangled points standeth the Palace of the great Turke, called Seralia, and the Forrest wherein he hunteth, which is two miles in length. The speciall obiect of antiquity I saw within this Citie, was the incomparable Church of S. Sophia, whose ornaments and hallowed vessels were innumerable, in the time of Iustinian the Emperour, [Page] who first builded it; but now conuerted to a Mosque, and consecrate to Mahomet after a Diabolicall manner. I saw also the famous Hypprodome, and the Theater whereon the people stood when the Emperours vsed to run their horses, and make their Princely shewes, on solemne dayes, which is now altogether decayed. There is a great Columne in that same place, in the which all those things memorable that haue béene done in this Hyppodrome, are superficially carued.

Upon the West corner of the Citie, there is a strong Fortresse, fortified with seuen great Towers, and well furnished with munition, called by Turkes, Iadileke: In this Presoun are Bashaws and Subbashaws imprisoned,Presoun. and also great men of Christians, if any offence be committed. Their place of exchange is called Bezastan, wherein all sorts of commodities are to bee sold; as Sattins, Silkes, Ueluets, Cloth of Siluer and Gold, and the most exquisitly wrought handkerchiffes, that can be found in the world; with other infinite commodities, the relation of which would be tedious.

I haue séene men and women as vsually sold here in markets, as horses, and other beasts are with vs. The most part of which are Hungarians, Transiluanians, and Bohemians, captiues, and of other places besides, which they ouercome. Whom, if no compassionable Christian will buy, or or relieue; then must they either turne Turke, or bee addicted to perpetuall slauery. In Constantinople there haue happened many fearefull fires, which often haue consumed to ashes the most part of the rarest monuments there, and the beauty of infinite palaces, as Zonoras the Constantinopolitan Historiographer in his Histories mentioneth. And now lately in the yeare 1607. October 14. there were burned aboue 3000 houses, of which I saw a number of ruines (as yet) vnrepaired. It is subiect also to diuers earthquakes, which haue often subuerted the Towers, Houses, Churches, and walles of the Citie to the ground. Especially in the yeare 1509. in the reigne of Baiazeth the [Page] ninth Emperour of the Turkes, in which time more then 13000 persons were all smothered and dead, and laid vp in heapes vnburied. And commonly euery third yeare, the pestilence is excéeding great in that Citie, and after such an odious manner, that those who are infected (before they dy) haue the halfe of their one side rot, and fall away: so that you may easily discerne the whole intrailes of their bodies. It is not licentiated that any Christian should enter in a Turkish Moskée, without the conduct of a Ianisary, the tryall whereof I had when I viewed S. Sophia.

Perah is ouer against Constantinople, called of old Cornubizantium; but by the Turkes Galata: It is the place at which Christian ships touch, and where the Embassadours of Christendome lie. From thence I went to the blacke sea: but commonly called, Mare Euxinum, where I saw Pompeis pillar of marble, standing néere to the shore, vpon a rocky Iland;Lanthorne. and not farre from hence, is a Lanthorne higher then any stéeple, whereon there is a pan full of liquor, that burneth euery night, to giue warning vnto ships how néere they come to shore: It is not much vnlike these Lanthornes of Lighorne and Genua. The water of this sea is neuer a whit blacker then other seas; but it is called black in respect of the dangerous euents in darke and tempestuous nights, which happen there; and because of the rockes and sands which lie a great way from the maine shore; vpon which many vessels are cast away. The blacke sea is not farre from Galata, for I both went and returned in one day.

The Turkes haue no bels in their Churches, neither the vse of a clocke, nor numbring of houres; but they haue high round Stéeples, for they contrafact and contradict all the formes of Christians; when they goe to pray, they are called together by the voyce of crying men, who go vp on the bartizings of their Stéeples, shouting and crying with a shrill voyce: La illa, Eillala, Mahomet Rezul alla, that is, God is a great God, and Mahomet is his Prophet, or otherwise there is but one God.

[Page]In Constantinople, and many other places of Turky, I haue séene thrée Sabboth dayes together in one wéeke: the Friday for the Turkes, the Saturday for Iewes, and the Sunday for the Christians; but the Turkes Sabboth is worst kept of all: for they will not spare to doe any labour vpon their holy day. They haue méetings at their publicke prayers euery day fiue seuerall times: the first is, before the rising of the Sunne: the second is, a little before midday: the third is, at three of the clock afternoone: the fourth is at Sun-setting, Summer and Winter: Fifthly, the last houre of praier is alwaies two or thrée houres within night. Many of them will watch till that time, and not sléepe, and others sléeping, will awake at the voyce of the Crier, and go to Church.

In signe of reuerence, and in a superstitious deuotion, before they goe into their Mosquées, they wash themselues in a Lauatoire, beginning at the priuy members, next their mouthes, faces, féet and handes: And entring, they incline their heads downeward to the earth; and falling on their knées,Superstition. doe kisse the ground thrée times. Then the Talasumany, which is the chiefe Priest, mounteth vpon a high stone, where he maketh many Orations to Mahomet: and the rest to assist him, continne a long time shaking their heads, as though they were out of all naturall vnderstanding, repeating oft this word, Haylamo, Haylamo; and after that will sigh grieuously, saying Houpek. And sometimes will abruptly sing the Psalmes of Dauid in the Arabick tongue, but to no sense, nor verity of the Scriptures. And at their deuotion, they will not tolerate any women in their company, lest they should withdraw their mindes and affection from their present zeale. The Church-men are called Hadach Casseis, or Daruises, who weare on their heads gréene Shashes, to make distinction betwéene them and others: for they are accounted to bee of Mahomets kindred.

They hold all madde men in great reuerence, as Prophets, or Saints, and if they intend any farre iourney, priuate [Page] purposes; or otherwise, before they goe to battell, they come to craue counsell of these Santones, to know if they shall prosper, or not in their attempts. And whatsoeuer answere these Bedleem Prophets giue, it is holden to be so credible, as if an Oracle had spoken it. The Turkish Priests are for the most part Moores, whom they account to bee a base people in respect of themselues, calling them Totseks. All Turkes doe detest the colour of blacke, and thinke those that weare it, shall neuer enter into Paradice. But the colour of greatest request among them, is greene; wherewith if any Christian shall be apparrelled, hee shall bee sure of Bastinadoes, and other punishments: Neither may hee vse the name of their Prophet Mahomet in his mouth, (vnder the paine of a cruell censure to bee inflicted vpon him) whom they so much adore and honour.

The birth of Mahomet.This Mahomet was borne Anno Dom. 591. in Itraripia, a beggarly village in Arabia, whose father was Abdallas, an Ismalite; and his mother Cadiges a Iew; both different in religion, and also of diuers Countries. In his youth hée was partly taught the Iudaicall law, and partly the superstition of the Gentiles. Many alleage his parentage was neuer knowne (being so base) vntill his riper yeares bewrayed the same. I also learned, that his parents dyed whiles he was a yong childe, and was turned ouer to his vncle, who after sold him to one Abdominoples, a Merchant in Palestina: And he, after a little time, hauing remarked his ready and prompt wit, sent him downe to Aegypt, to be a Factor in his merchandise; where, by his dissimulate behauiour hee crept in fauour with Christians, Iewes, and Gentiles. Hee was in proportion of a meane stature, liuely faced, big-headed, eloquent in language, of a sanguinicall complexion, and a couragious stomacke, in all attempts excéeding desperate: he was also deceitfull, variant, and fraudulent, as may appeare in his Satanicall Fables, expressed in his Alcoran, where oft one saying contradicteth another, both in words and effect.

[Page]About this time there was one Sergius, an Italian Monke, banished from Constantinople, because he allowed of the Arrian sect: who afterward came to Palestina, and frequenting the house of Abdeminoples, fell in acquaintance with the yong man Mahomet; and this Frier perceiuing the aspiring quicknesse of his braine, bare a great aff ection to his naturall perfections. Shortly after this, his Maister dying, without heires, and his Mistresse enioying many rich possessions: she, for these his extraordinary qualities, from the degrée of a seruant, aduanced him to bee her owne husband. That vnhappy match was no sooner done, but shee repented it with teares; for he being subiect to the falling sicknesse, would often fall flat on the ground, before her, staring, gaping, and foming at the mouth, so that his company became loathsome and detestable: The which begun contempt in his bed-fellow, being to him manifested, he stroue (vnder the shadow of inuented lies) to mitigate the fury of her hatefull disdaine, faining and attesting, that when he fell to the ground, it was the great God spoke with him,The dissimulation of the false Prophet Mahomet. before whose faith (saith he) I am not able to stand; such is his soliciting of me, with words of terrour and Maiestie, to reforme the waies of the degenerate people with fire and sword, sith Moses and Christ (notwithstanding of their Miracles) haue béene reiected by the world. The old Trot beleeuing all these flattering spéeches, was not onely appeased of her former conceit, but also louing him more then a husband, reuerenced him for a diuine Prophet, imparting the same vnto her neighbours and Gossips. After they had liued two yeares together, the bewitched Matron dying, left all her rich possessions to Mahomet; both because she accounted him to bee a Prophet, and next for that louing regard she had of his tender body, being but thirty yeares of age. He being thus left with great riches, was puft vp in pride, and hauty desires, striuing by all inordinary meanes, to bring his new deuised plots to perfection: For the better performance whereof, he consulted with this [Page] Sergius, Mahomet, Sergius, & a Thalmudist a Iew, the three treacherous companions, and maine pillars of a damnable Alcoran. and another Thalmudist, a diuerted Iew; heereupon these two hell-hounds, and the other peruerst Runagate, patched vp a most monstruous and deuillish Religion to themselues, and to their miscreant beleeuers: partly composed of the Iudaicall Law, partly of Arrianisme, and partly intermixed with some points of Christianity.

This new coyned doctrine, was no sooner wrapt vp in his execrable Alcoran, but he began to spit forth his abhominable and blasphemous heresies: Affirming, that Christ was not the Son of the most High, nor that Messias looked for; denying also the Trinity, with many other prophane blasphemies. The worke concluded, for the better aduancement of his purpose, he married the daughter of the chiefe Prince of his owne Tribe: By which new affinity, he not onely seduced his Father-in-law, but also the whole linage of that family; by whose acceptance and conuersion, he also confederated with other associates, and waxed daily stronger. Contending continually to diuulgate his name, ay more and more, hee assembled his new Alcoranists, exhorting them to assist him in the besieging of Mecha, which Citizens had in dirision rebuked his Law, and absolutely disdained his Mahometicall illusions: and promised to them, in such a well-deseruing attempt, both etenall felicity, and the spoyles of his contradictors; perswasiuely assuring them,Illusions of Mahomet. that God would deliuer all the gaine-sayers of his Alcoran into his hands. By the which allurements they being moued, rose to the number of three thousand in Armes, and menaced Mecha, but the Citizens put him to flight, and so was he thrise serued; till in the end hee wonne their Citie: wherein, after his death, he was entoombed in an Iron Coffin: Which betweene two Adamants hangeth to this day (as I haue béene informed of sundry Turkes who saw it) which confirmed in them a solid beliefe of his erronious doctrine.

I haue seene sometimes two thousand Turkes trauelling [Page] to Mecha, in pilgrimage; which is in Arabia Felix; where many in a superstitious deuotion, hauing séene the Toombe of Mahomet, are neuer desirous to sée the vanities of the world againe: for in a franticke piety they cause a Smith to pull forth their eyes: And these men are called afterward Hoggeis, that is, Holy men▪ whom the Turkes much honour and regard.

Some write, that Mahomet in his youth, was a Souldier, vnder the conduct of Heraclius; and some mutinies happening in the Army, he, with certaine Arabians, his Country-men, by faction, separated themselues: whereupon, Mahomet, encouraging them in their defection, was chosen their Captaine; and so for a certaine time they continued rebellious Runagates, Theeues, and Robbers of all people.

The subtilty of this dissembler was admirable; who knowing that he was distitute of heauenly gifts, to worke miracles, feigned that God sent him with the Sword. He also promised, at the end of a thousand yeares to returne, and bring them to Paradise; but hee hath falsified his promise, for the time is expired twenty three yeares ago. And they imagining, that hee is either diseased, or become lame in his iourney, haue ascribed to him another thousand yeares to come. But long may their wicked and faithlesse generation gape, before he come, till such time, that in a generall conuocation, they be partakers of his endlesse damnation in hell; vnlesse it please the Lord in his mercy, to conuert them, before that time.

Mahomet, chiefly prohibiteth in his Alcoran, the eating of Swines flesh, and drinking of wine, which indeed the best sort do, but their baser kind are daily drunkards: Their common drinke is Sherpet, composed of water, hony, and sugar, which is exceeding delectable in the tast: And the vsuall courtesie they bestow on their friends, who visite them, is a Cup of Coffa, made of a kind of seede called Coaua, and of a blackish colour, which they drinke so hote as possible they can, and is good to expell [Page] the crudity of raw meates, and hearbes, so much by them frequented. And those that cannot attaine to this liquor, must bee contented with the cooling streames of water.

It is incident to Turkes, which haue not that generositie of minde, to temper felicitie, to bee glutted with the superfluous fruits of doubtfull prosperity: Neither haue they a patient resolution to withstand aduersity, nor hope to expect the better alteration of time. But by an infused malice in their wicked spirits, when they are any way calamited, will with importunate compulsion, cause the poore slauish subiected Christians, surrender all they haue, the halfe, or so forth, sometimes with strokes, menacings, and sometimes death it selfe; which plainely doth demonstrate their excessiue cruelty, and the poore Christians ineuitable misery.

I haue often heard Turkes brawle one with another, most vilely, but I neuer saw, or heard, that they either in priuate or publique quarrels, durst strike one another; neither dare they, for feare of seuere punishment imposed to such quarrellers: But they will iniure and strike Christians, who dare not say it is amisse,Cruelty of Turkes toward their seruants. They also punish malefactors three manner of wayes, according to the hainousnesse of the offence most seuerely, which I haue heere omitted to relate. nor strike againe. It is a common thing with them, to kill their seruants for a very small offence, and when they haue done throw them like dogs in a ditch. And oftentimes (if not so) will lay them downe on their backes, hoysing vp their heeles, bind their feete together, and fasten them to a post, and with a cudgell giue them thrée or foure hundred blowes on the soales of their féete; whereupon, peraduenture, some euer go lame after.

Their seruants are bought, and sold, like bruite beasts in markets; neither can these miserable drudges euer recouer liberty, except they buy themselues free, either by one meane or other.

Their wiues are not farre from the like seruitude, for the men by the Alcoran are admitted to marry as many women as they will, or their ability can keep. And if it shal [Page] happen, that any one of these women (I meane either wife or concubine) prostituteth her selfe to another besides her husband; then may he by authority, bind her hands and feet, hang a stone about her neeke, and cast her into a riuer, which by them is vsually done in the night.

But when those Infidels please to abuse poore Christian women against their husbands will, they little regard the transgression of the Christian Law, who as well defloure their daughters as their wiues, yet the deuoute Mahometans neuer meddle with them, accompting themselues damned to copulate (as they think) with the offspring of dogs: The Turkes generally, when they commit any copulation with Christians, or their owne Sex, they wash themselus in a South-running fountaine, before the Sun-rising, thinking thereby to wash away their sins.

But now to returne to the Turkes:The marriage of Turkes. Their custome and manner of mariage is this: If a man affecteth a yong maid, he buyeth her of her parents, and giueth a good summe of mony for her, and after she is bought, he enrolles her name in the Cadies booke, witnessing she is his bound wife, bought of her father. Loe this is all the forme of their Marriage: This being done the father of the woman sendeth houshold-stuffe home with the Bride, which is carryed through the streets on Mulets or Camels backes, the two new married folkes marching before, are conueyed with Musicke, their owne acquaintance and friends, vnto his house.

The Turkes in generall, whensoeuer they loath or dislike their wiues, vse to sell them in Markets, or otherwise bestow them, on their men-slaues: And although their affection were neuer so great toward them, yet they neuer eate together, for commonly the women stand, and serue their husbands at meate, and after that they eat apart by themselues, secretly, without admission of any mankinde in their company, if they be aboue foureteene yeares of age, They go seldome abroad, vnlesse it be each Thurseday at night, when they go to the Graues to mourne for the dead, [Page] alwaies couering their faces, very modestly with white or black maskes, which are neuer vncouered, till they returne to their houses.

Many other ceremonies they haue, which would be too prolixe for me to recite. And notwithstanding of all this exernall grauity, amongst these hirelings, yet there are in Constantinople, aboue 40000 brothel-houses, Turqueski, ts Libertines; in any of which, if a Christian, (especially Franckes) be apprehended, he must either turne Turke, or laue, all his life: But the women by a policy apply a counterpoyson to this seuerity, for they accustomably come to the Chambers of their Benefactors and Well-willers, or other places appointed secretly, where so they learne either a French Syncopa, or an Italian Bergemasko.

The Lent of the Turks is called Byrham, which continueth the space of a month once in the yeare: in all which time, from the Sunne rising to his setting, they neither eate nor drinke: And at their prayers (especially in this fasting) they vse often to reiterate these words, Hue, hue, hue, that is; He he he, alone is God; or There is but one onely supreme Power; which they do in deriston of Christians, who (as they say) adore three Gods. They haue also this sinister opinion, that at the day of iudgement, when Mahomet shall appeare, there shall be three displayed Banners, vnder the which all good people shall be conducted in Paradise. The one of MOSES, vnder the which the children of Israel shall be: The second of IESVS, vnder which Christians shall bee: The third of Mahomet, vnder the which shall be the Arabs, Turkes, Moores, and Musilmans: All which, they thinke, shall be eleuated to seuerall honours; And they in promotion shall bee discerned from the rest, by chambers made of replendant light, which God will giue them; wherein they shall haue banquetings, feastings, dancing, and the best melody can bee deuised.

They hold also this, as a confident Article of their Beleefe, that there are seuen Paradises in heauen, the pauements [Page] whereof are laid with gold,Seuen Paradises. siluer, pearles, pretious stones, and garnished with stately buildings, and pleasant gardens, wherein are all sorts of fruit, and Princely Palaces; through the which run riuers of milke, hony, and wine. The first Paradice, they call it Genete Alcholde, the second Alfirduzy, the third Anthinak, the fourth Reduasch, the fift Azelem, the sixt Alcodush, that is, holy; and the seuenth Almega, that is, the greatest. And that in the midst of this last Paradise, there is a stately tree called Tubah, the leafe of which, is partly of gold, and partly of siluer; whose boughes extend round about the walles of this seuenth Paradise, whereon the name of Mahomet is written, neere to the name of God, in these words, Alla, illa, he, allah, Mahomet Rezul allah. The which words are in such reuerence amongst the Turks, that a Christian should happen, vnaduisedly to repeate them, hee is adiudged to a most cruell death, or compulsed to renounce his Christian Religion.

As concerning their opinion of Hell,The opinion Turkes haue of Hell. they hold it to be deepe Gulfe, betwixt two Mountaines: from the mouth whereof are Dragons, that continually throw fire, being large eight leagues, and hath a darke entry, where the horrible fiends meete the perplexed sinners, conuoying them till they come to a Bridge that is so narrow as the edge of a rasour: whereupon those who haue not committed hainous offences, may passe ouer to hell, but those who haue done buggery (as the most part of them do) and homicide, shall fall headlong from it, to the profoundest pit in Hell, where they shall sometimes burne in fire, and sometimes be cast into hote boyling water to be refreshed. And for the greater punishment of the wicked (say they) God hath planted a trie in Hell, named Saiaratash or Roozo Saytanah, that is, the head of the Deuill, vpon the fruit of which, the damned continually feed: Mahomet in one of the chapters of his Alcoran calleth this trie, The trie of Malediction.

They also thinke the tormented soules may one day [Page] bee saued, prouiding they doe indure the scorching flames of Hell patiently. Thus, as briefly as I could, haue I laid open the opinion of the Turkes, concerning their Hell and Heauen, before the eyes of these, who peraduenture haue neuer beene acquainted with such a Ghostly Discourse.

The beginning of the Turkes.The originall of the Turkes, is said to haue béene in Scythia, from whence they came to Arabia Petrea, and giuing battell oft to the Sarazens, in the end subdued them, and so they multiplyed, and mightily increased: the apparence of their further increasing, is very euident except God of his mercy towards vs preuent their bloud-sucking threatnings, with the vengeance of his iust iudgements.

The Sarazens are descended of Esau, who after he had lost the blessing, went and inhabited in Arabia Petrea; and his posterity, striuing to make a cléere distinction betweene them, the Ismalites, and Iewes, called themselues (as come of Sara) Sarazens; and not of Hagar, the handmaid of Abraham, of whom came the Ismaelites, neither of the race of Iacob, of whom came the Iewes. But now the Sarazens being ioyned with the Turkes, their Conquerours, haue both lost their name, and the right of their descent.

The puissance of the great Turke is admirable, yet the most part of his Kingdomes in Asia, are not well inhabited, neither populous, but these parts which border with Christians, are strongly fortified with Castles, People, and Munition: If Christian Princes could concord, and consult together, it were a easie thing in one yeare, to subdue the Turkes, and roote out their very names from the earth; yea, moreouer, I am certified, that there are more Christians, euen slaues and subiects to the great Turke, which doe inhabite his Dominions, then might ouerthrow and conquer these Infidels, if they had worthy Captaines, Gouernours, and furniture of Armes; without the helpe of any Christian of Christendome.

[Page]Amongst the Turkes there is no Gentility nor Nobility, but are all as ignoble and inferiour members to one maine body the great Turke, lineally descended from the house of Ottoman: His cōcubines conuene once a day, and are ranked in a Hall, which he doth suruey after his owne pleasure, making a signe to her whom hee affecteth, who goeth presently with him to his adulterate cabine of lasciuious leachery. whose magnificence, puissance, and power, is such, that the most eloquent tongue cannot sufficiently declare: his thousands of Ianisaries, Shouses, and others daily attending him, his hundreds (besides his Quéene) of Concubines hourly maintained by him, his Armies, Bashaws, Garrisons and forces here and there dispersed amongst his dominions, would bee impossible for me briefly to relate. The inhumane policy of the Turkes to auoyd ciuill dissention, is such, that the seed of Ottoman (al except one of them) are strangled to death: wherefore as Augustus Cesar said of Herod in the like case, It is better to bee the great Turkes dogge, then his sonne. His daughters or sisters, are not so vsed, but are giuen in marriage to any Bashaw whom so they affect; yet with this condition; the King saith to his daughter or sister, I giue thée this man to be (at all times) thy slaue; and if he offend thée in any case, or bee disobedient to thy will, here I giue thée a dagger to cut off his head; which alwayes they weare by their sides for the same purpose.

The Persians differ much from the Turkes, in nobility, humanity, and actiuity, and especially in poynts of religion, who by contention thinke each other accursed; and notwithstanding both factions are vnder the Mahometanicall Law. Neither are the sonnes of the Persian Kings so barbarously handled as theirs: for all the brethren (one excepted) are onely made blinde, wanting their eyes, and are alwayes afterward gallantly maintained, like Princes. And it hath oftentimes fallen out, that some of these Kings dying without procreate heires; there haue of these blinde sonnes succéeded to the Empire, who haue restored againe the séed of that royall family.

[Page]

A Description of his Trauels into Asia Maior, Cyprus, and the Carpathian Iles, the reason why he was disappoynted of his purpose, being so neere Babylon, of the beauty of Damascus, of the nature of Arabians, and of his returne to Ierusalem.

DEparting from Constantinople; I came to Cenchrea, being 300 miles distant, where S. Paul cut his haire, after his vow was performed, Act. 18.18. From thence I went to Smyrna, Smyrna. in Carmania, a famous Kingdome in Asia the lesser: This Citty was one of the seuen Churches mentioned Reuel. 2.8. It is a goodly place, hauing a faire hauen for shippes: they haue great Trafficke with all Nations, especially for the fine Silke, Cotten-wooll, and Dimmetie, brought to it by the Country Peasants, which strangers buy from them. Truely neere vnto this Citie, I saw such a long continuing Plaine, abounding in Corne, Wines, all sorts of fruitfull Herbage, and so infinitely peopled, that me thought Nature séemed, with the peoples industry to contend, the one by propagating creatures, the other by admirable agriculture.

Thiatyra, now called Tiria, one also of the seuen Churches, is not farre hence.

From this Citie I embarked in a Turkish Carmoesalo, bound for Rhodes. In our sayling along the coast of Asia Minor, the first place of any note I saw, was the ruinous Citie of Ephesus;Ephesus. yet somewhat inhabited, and pleasantly adorned with Gardens, faire Fields, and gréene Woods of [Page] Oliue trées, which on the sea doe yeeld a delectable prospect. It was one of the seuen Churches, Reuel. 2.1. Ouer-against this Citie is the Ile of Lango, anciently called Coos, wherein the great Hippocrates was borne, and Apelles the most excellent Painter. It is both fertile and populous, and of circuit about foure score miles. There is a kind of Serpent said to be in it, so friendly vnto the inhabitants that when the men are sleeping vnder the shadow of trees, they come crawling, and will linke or claspe themselues about their neckes and bodies, without doing any harme, neither when they awake are the beasts afraide. And néere to Lango is the Ile Nixa, Nixa. of old, Strangoli; and by some Dionisa, and Naxus, an Iland both fruitfull and delightfull. As we failed by the West part of the Ile, a Greeke passenger shewed me the place, where (as hee said) Ariadne was deceiued of Theseus, which is not farre from the irriguate plaine of Darmille. Continuing our nauigation, I saw a little Ile called Ephdosh, where the Turkes told me, that all the Ilanders were naturally good swimmers, paying no more tribute to their great Lord the Turke, saue onely once in the yeare, there are certaine men and women chosen by a Turkish Captaine, who must swimme a whole league out-right in the sea, and goe downe to the bottome of the waters, to fetch thence some token they haue got ground: And if they shall happen to faile in this, the Iland will bee reduced againe to pay him yearely rent. This I saw with mine eyes, whiles we being calmed, there came a man and two women swimming to vs, more then a mile of way, carrying with them (dry aboue the water) baskets of fruit to sell, the which made me not a little to wonder. Contenting them for their ware, vpon the ninth day after our departure from Smyrna, wee arriued at the Citie of Rhodes, so called of the Iland wherein it standeth.

Rhodes lieth the Carpathian sea: It was of old called Ithrea, Rhodes. Telchino, and Phiula: Plinie saith it was called Rhodes, because there were certaine fieldes of roses in it; for Rhodes in the Greeke tongue signifieth a floure; Not [Page] farre from the Citie, I saw the reliques of that huge, and admiredly-erected Idell, named Colossus, from the which Saint Paul tearmed the inhabitants Colossians. The great Colosse. It was builded by the worthy Canete Lindo, others haue said, of Callasses the disciple of Lisippus, taking the name Colossus of him, and it was thought worthy to bee one of the seuen earthly wonders, and so it might iustly haue béene: The quantitie whereof (as yet) may amaze the minde of the beholder. This Ile belonged once to the Knights of Malta, and were then surnamed Knights of the Rhodes, but they came first out of Acre in the Holy Land; who were called Knights of Saint Iohn. The Citie hath two strong Fortresses, in one of which these Knights (who were about fiue hundred onely, and fiue thousand Rhodians who assisted them) were besieged with an Army of two hundred thousand Turkes, and three hundred Gallies, for the space of sixe moneths. The chiefe obstacle and impeaching of so great an Army from taking it, was onely the resolute valour of the defendants. But in the end, the Caualieri di Rhodo wanting furniture to their munition, and being penurious of victuals, were constrained to render, vpon the conditionall safety of their liues, goods, and transportation; and remained a long time without any habitation, till ye King of Spaine gaue thē ye barren Ile of Malta to inhabite. This Ile of Rhodes was lost by the Maltazes, Anno Dom. 1522. and euer since is in the fruition of Turks. The Fortresse of Rhodes, and that Fortresse of Famagosta in Cyprus, are the two strongest holds in all the Empire of the great Turke.

After I had contented the Master for my fraught and victuals (who, as he was an Infidell, vsed me with an extraordinary exaction) I found a Barke of the Arches purposed to Cyprus, Tharsus, a decayed Citty in Cilicia, where Saint Paul was borne, in the chiefest seat of that Countrey with the which I embarked, being 400. miles distant. Hauing past the gulfe of Sattelia, we boorded close along the firme land of fruitfull Pamphilia, and on the fifth day thereafter wee fetched vp the coast of Cilicia, sustaining many great dangers both of tempestuous [Page] stormes, and inuasions of damnable Pirates.

Twelue dayes was I betwéene Rhodes and Limisso in Cyprus; where arriued, I receiued more gracious demonstrations from the Ilanders, then I could hope for, or wish, being farre beyond my merit or expectation; onely contenting my curiosity with a quiet minde, I redounded thankes for my embraced curtesies. The second day after my arriuall, I tooke with me an Interpreter, and went to sée Nicosia, which is placed in the midst of the kingdome. But in my iourney thither, extreame was heate and thirst I endured; both in respect of the season, and also want of water. And although I had with me sufficiency of wine, yet durst I drinke none thereof, being so strong, and withall hath a taste of pitch; and that is, because they haue no barrels, but great Iarres made of earth, wherein their wine is put. Nicosia is the principall Citie of Cyprus, & is inuironed with mountaines, like vnto Florence in Aetruria; wherein the Uizier Bashaw remaineth. The second is Famagosta, the chiefe strength and sea-port in it: Selina, Lemisso, Paphos, and Fontana Morosa, are the other foure speciall Townes in the Iland.

This Ile of Cyprus was of old called Achametide, Cyprus. Amatusa, and by some Machara: It is of length 210, and large 60. and of circuit 600 miles. In this Ile was Venus greatly honored: It yéeldeth infinite Canes of Sugar, strong Wines, and Cotten-wooll, besides all other sorts of fruit, in abundance. The Dukes of Sauoy were once kings of Cyprus; but the inhabitants vsurping authority, elected kings to themselues, of their owne generation; & so it continued till the last king of Cyprus (marrying the daughter of a Venetian) died without children; & the Venetians taking the opportunity of time, brought home his wife to Venice, and sent Gouernors there to beare the sway in their behalfe: It was vnder their iurisdiction 120 yeares & more, till that the Turks, who euer oppose themselues against Christians (finding a fit occasion in the time of peace, and without suspition in the Venetians) tooke it in with a great Armado, in the [Page] yeare 1570. and so till this day by them is detained. Oh great pitty! that the vsurpers of Gods word, and the worlds great enemy, should maintaine (without feare) that famous kingdome, being but 1500 Turkes in all, who are the keepers of it: vnspeakeable is the calamity of that poore afflicted Christian people, vnder the terrour of these Infidels: who would, if they had Armes or assistance of any Christian Potentate, easily subuert and abolish the Turks without any disturbance; yea and would render the whole Signiory thereof to such a noble Actor. I doe not see in that small iudgement which by experience I haue got, but the redemption of that Countrey were most facile, if that the generous heart of any Christian Prince would be moued with condigne compassion to relieue the miserable afflicted inhabitants. In which worke he should reape (questionlesse) not onely an infinite treasure of worldly commodities, that followeth vpon so great a Conquest, but also a heauenly and eternall reward of immortall glory.An enterprise of the Florentines. The which deliuerance the Duke of Florence thought to haue accomplished (hauing purchased the good will of the Ilanders) with fiue Gallounes, and fiue thousand Souldiers: who being mindfull to take first in the Fortresse of Famagosta, directed so their course, that in the night they should haue entred the Hauen, dis-barke their men, and scale the walles. But in this plot they were farre disappointed by an vnhappy Pilot of the Uice-Admirall; who mistaking the Port went into a wrong Bay: which the Florentines considering, resolued to returne and kéepe the sea till the second night; but by a dead calme they were frustrated of their aimes, and on the morrow discouered by the Castle: whereupon the Turkes went presently to Armes, and charged the Inhabitants to come defend that place: But about foure hundred Greekes in the West part at Paphos, About 400 Greekes were slughtered by the Turkes in the yeare 1607 rebelled; thinking that time had altered their hard fortunes, by a new change: but were they preuented, and euery one cut off, by the bloudy hands of the Turkes. This massacre was committed in the yeare 1607. Such [Page] alwayes are the torturing flames of Fortunes smiles, that he who most affecteth her, she most, and altogether deceiueth: But they who trust in the Lord shall be as stable as Mount Sion which cannot be remoued; and questionlesse, one day God, in his all-eternall mercy will relieue their miseries, and in his iust iudgements recompence these bloudy oppressors with the heauy vengeance of his all-séeing iustice.

In my returne from Nicosia to Famagosta, with my Trouchman, we encountred by the way with foure Turkes, who néedes would haue my horse to ride vpon; which my Interpreter refused: But they in a reuenge pulled me by the héeles from the horse backe, beating me most pittifully, and left me almost for dead. In this meane while my companion fled, and escaped the sceleratenesse of their hands; and if it had not beene for some compassionable Greekes, who by accident came by, and relieued me, I had (doubtlesse) immediatly perished. From Famagosta I imbarked in a Germe, Tripoly. and arriued at Tripoly. Tripoly is a Citie in Siria, standing a mile from the marine side, néere to the foote of Mount Libanus: since it hath béene first founded, it hath thrée times béene situated and remoued in thrée sundry places: First, it was ouerwhelmed with water. Secondly, it was sacked with Cursares, and Pirates. Thirdly, it is now like to be ouerthrowne with new made mountaines of sand. There is no Hauen by many miles neere vnto it, but a dangerous rode, where often when Northerly winds blow, ships are cast away. The great trafficke which now is at this place, was formerly at Scanderona, a little more Eastward; but by reason of the infectious aire, that corrupteth the bloud of strangers, procéeding of two high mountaines, who are supposed to bee part of mount Caucasus, which with-hold the prospect of the Sunne from the In-dwellers, more then thrée houres in the morning. So that in my knowledge, I haue knowne dye in one ship, and a moneths time, twenty Mariners: for this cause the Christian Shippes were glad to haue their commodities [Page] brought to Tripoly, which is a more wholsome and conuenient place.

The daily interrogation I had here for a Carauans departure to Aleppo, was not to me a little fastidious, being mindfull to visite Babylon. In this my expectation I tooke purpose with thrée Venetian Marchants, to go sée the Cedars of Libanon, which was but a dayes iourney thither. As we ascended vpon the mountaine, our ignorant guide mistaking the way, brought vs in a labyrinth of dangers; insomuch that wrestling amongst intricate paths of rocks, two of our Asses fell ouer a banke and brake their neckes: And if it had not beene for a Christian Amaronite, who accidentally encountred with vs, in our wilsum wandring, we had béen miserably lost, both in regard of rockes, and heapes of snow we passed, and also of great torrents which fell downe with force from the steepy toppes, wherein one of these Marchants was twice almost drowned. When we arriued to the place where the Cedars grew, we saw but 24 of all, growing after the manner of Oke trées, but a great deale taller, straighter, and greater, and the branches grow so straight out, as though they were kept by Art.

Cedars.Although that in the dayes of Salomon this mountaine was ouer-clad with forrests of Cedars, yet now there are but onely these, and 9 miles Westward thence 17 more. The nature of that tree is alwaies gréene, yéelding an odoriferous smell, and an excellent kind of fruit, like vnto Apples, but of a swéeter taste, & more wholesome in digestion. The roots of some of these Cedars are almost destroyed by shepheards, who haue made fires thereat, and holes wherein they sléepe; yet neuerthelesse they flourish gréene aboue in the toppes, and branches. The length of this mountaine is about fortie miles, reaching from the West to the East; and continually, Summer and Winter reserueth snow on the toppes. It is also beautified with all the ornaments of nature, as herbage, tillage, pastorage, fructiferous trées, fine fountaines, good Cornes, and absolutely the [Page] best wine that is bred on the earth. The Signior thereof is a free-holder, by birth a Turk, and will not acknowledge any superior, but the most part of the inhabited Uillages are Christians, called Amaronites, or Nostranes, quasi Nazaritans, and are gouerned by their owne Patriarke. There are none at this day, do speake the Syriack tongue, saue onely these people of Mount Libanus; & in that Language the Alcoran of Mahomet is written. The kind Amaronite whom we met, and tooke with vs for our best guide, in descending from the Cedars, shewed vs many caues and holes in rockes, where Coliers, Coliers religious Greekes. religious Sirens and Amaronites abide: Amongst these austere Cottages, I saw a faire Toombe all of one stone, being seuentéene foote of length, which (as he said) was the sepulchre of the valiant Ioshua, who conducted the people of Israel in the land of promise.

The Mahometans esteeme this to bee a holy place, and many resort to it in pilgrimage, to offer vp their Satanicall prayers to Mahomet. I saw vpon this Mountaine a sort of fruit, called Amazza franchi: that is, the death of Christians; because when Italians, or others of Europe, eate any quantity thereof, they presently fall into the bloudy fluxes, or else ingender some other pestilentious feuer, whereof they die. The Patriarke did most kindly entertaine vs at his house; so did also all the Amaronites of the other Uillages, who met vs in our way before we came to their Townes, and brought presents with them of Bread, Wine, Figges, Oliues, Sallats, Capons, Egges, and such like, as they could on a suddaine prouide. About the Uillage of Eden, is the most fruitfull part of all Libanus, abounding in all sorts of delitious fruites. True it is, the variety of these things, maketh the silly people thinke, the Garden of Eden was there: By which allegeance, they approue the apprehension of such a sinistrous opinion, with these arguments; that Mount Libanus, is sequestrate from the circum-iacent Regions, and is inuincible for the height, and strengths they haue in rockes; & that Eden was [Page] still re-edified by the fugitiue inhabitants, when their enemies had ransacked it: Also they affirme, before the deluge it was so nominate, and after the floud it was repaired againe by Iaphet, the sonne of Noah, who builded Ioppa, or Iaphta, in Palestina. Loe these are the reasons they show strangers for such like informations.

There are with this one, other two supposed places of this earthly Paradise: the one is by the Turkes, and some ignorant Georgians, holden to bee at Damascus, for the beauty of faire fields, gardens, and excellent fruites there, especially for the trée called Mouslee, which they beléeue hath growne there since the beginning of the world. Indéed it is a rare and singular Tree, for I saw it at Damascus, and others also of the same kind, vpon Nylus in Egypt: The growth whereof is strauge; for euery yeare in September it is cut downe hard by the roote, and in fiue moneths the Tree buddeth vp a pace againe, bringing forth leaues,This Tree hath seuerall vertues bearing but one Apple at once. floures, and fruit. The leafe thereof is of such a bredth, that thrée men may easily stand vnder the shadow of it, and the Apple is bigger then a footeball.

The third place by the Chelfaines, is thought to be in the East part of Mesopotamia, neere to the ioyning of Tygris, and Euphrates; where, so they inhabite. I haue oft required of these Chelfaines, what reason they had for this conceiued opinion: who answered me they receiued it from time to time, by the Tradition of their Ancestors; And because of the riuer Euphrates, and others riuers mentioned in the Scriptures, which to this day, detaine their names in that Country. Some hold that Garden of Eden extended ouer all the earth. But contrarywise it manifestly appeareth by the second chapter of Genesis, verse twenty, that this Garden which wee call Paradise, wherein Adam was put to dresse it, was a certaine place on earth, containing a particular portion of a Country, called Eden, which boundeth on the riuer Euphrates. To this, and all the rest, I answere, no certainety can bee had of the place where [Page] Eden was, either by reading or trauelling, because this riuer hath beene oft diuided in sundry streames: And it is said, that Cyrus, when hee wonne Babylon, did turne the maine channell of Euphrates to another course. But howsoeuer, or wheresoeuer it be, I resolue my selfe, no man can demonstrate the place, which God for the sinnes and fall of man, did not onely accurse, but also the whole face of the earth.

Many ancient Authors haue agreed with the opinion of Plato and Aristotle, Diuisions. constantly affirming, that Mountaines, Ilands, and Countries, haue receiued great alteration by the inundation of riuers, and violence of raging seas. Thracia, hath béene diuided from Bithinia: Nigroponti, from Thessalia: Corfu from Epire: Sicilia, from Italy: The Iles Orcades, from Scotland, and many other Ilands, and Countries, cut through so in diuisions after the same forme. Wherefore the more a man contemplates to search the knowledge of Eden, and such high mysteries (appertaining onely to the Creator) the more he shall faile in his purpose, offend God, and bee esteemed fantasticall for his paines.

But to be briefe, after my returne to Tripoly, I departed thence Eastward, with a Carauan of Turkes to Aleppo, being ten daies iourney distant. In all this way (leauing Scanderon and Antiochia on our left hand) I saw nothing worthy remarking, saue onely a few scattered Uillages, and poore miserable people, liuing in Tents, and following their Flockes, to whom I payed sundry Caffars: who remoue their women, children, and cattell, where so they find Fountaines, and good pastorage: like vnto the custome of the ancient Israelites: which in their vagabonding fashion, did plainly demonstrate the necessity they had to liue, rather then any pleasure they had in their liuing. The recitation of their ridiculous ceremonies, and deuillish religion by them vsed, to auoid tediousnesse I omit.

Before my arriuall in Aleppo, Aleppo. the Carauan of Babylon was from thence departed, which bred no small griefe in [Page] my breast: the Venetian Consull, to whom I was highly recommended, by the aforesaid Merchants (hauing had some insight of my intended voyage) informed me that the Carauan stayed at Beershak on Euphrates, for some conceiued report they had of Arabs, that lay for them in the Desarts, and willed me to hire a Ianisary, and three souldiers, to ouer-hie them; whose counsell I receiued: but was méerely frustrated of my designes. True it was, they stayed, but were gone three daies before my comming to that vnhappy place. These my periured consorts perceiuing there was no ability to follow the Carauan any further, informed me, another company would arriue there shortly. But to what end did they this; Onely, that by long attendance, they might sucke the money from my purse,The abuses of Infidels. which indeed was extraordinary chargeable. The abuses of these damnable Hel-hounds my Protectors, the dangers I sustained in that barbarous Uillage, and in my constrained returne to Aleppo: to expresse I will not; but rather sepulchrize it in the pit of obliuion, least the remembrance of former miseries, shold be a renuing of fresh sorrowes: knowing that I indured more trouble in that lost time, then in all my succeeding trauailes.

A new intended voyage.To bee a recompence to this my former losse, I determined (God willing) not onely to visite Babylon, which I so neerely lost, but also all the most famous kingdomes that border with the Indian, Persian, and Caspian seas. This Beershak is in Mesopotamia, and thought to haue beene Padan-Aram, where Laban dwelt: It standeth néere to the ioyning of Tygris, Niniuy. and swift running Euphrates, and not far hence is the demolished Citie of Niniuy on Tygris, whose very ruines are now come to ruine; the decaies whereof, is semblable to that sacked Lacedemon in Sparta.

Mesopotamia. Mesopotamia is seldome watered with raine, but by the nature of the soile is maruellous fruitfull: It is boorded with Caldea, on the East: Euphrates, on the South: Syria, on the Norch: and Arabia Petrea on the West. This Aleppo [Page] is a Citie in Siria; the name of which hath béene so oft changed by Turkes, that the true Antiquity of it can hardly be knowne: It is both large and populous, and furnished with all sorts of Marchandize, especially of Indigo and spices, that is brought ouer land from Go, and other places in India, which draweth a concurrance of all Nations to it.

In my expectation heere (being disappointed of my desired aimes) I pretended to visite Ierusalem in my backecomming; and for the furtherance of my determination, I ioyned with a Carauan of Armenians, and Turkes, that were well guarded with Ianisaries, and Souldiers; of whom some were to stay at Damascus by the way, and some mindfull to the furthest marke. And for my better safeguard (being alwaies alone, which by all was euer much admired) the Uize Consull tooke surety of the Captaine, that hee should protect mee safely from théeues, cut-throates, and the exactions of tributes by the way, deliuering mee fréely into the hands of the Padre Guardiano at Ierusalem: which being done, I hired two Mulets from a Turk ▪ one to ride vpon, and another to carry my victuals; and so set forward with them. The number of our company were about 900 Armenians, Christian pilgrimes, men and women, 600 Turkes, trafficking for their owne businesse, and 100 Souldiers, thrée Schowsses, and sixe Ianisaries to keep them from inuasions.

Betweene Aleppo and Damascus, wee had nine daies iourney, in fiue of which, we had pleasant trauelling, and good Canes to lodge in, that had béene builded for the support of Trauellors, and are well maintained: But when we passed Hamsek, which is a little more then mid-way, wee had dangerous trauelling, being oft assailed with Arabs, fatigated with rocky Mountaines, and sometimes in point of choaking for lacke of water. The confusion of this multitude was not onely grieuous in regard of the extreme heate, prouiding of victuals at poore Uillages, and scarcity of water to fill our bottles, made of boare skinnes, [Page] but also amongst narrow and stony passages, thronging, we oft fell one ouer another, in great heapes, in danger to be smothered: yea, and oftentimes, we that were Christians, had our bodies well beaten, by our conducting Turkes. At our accustomed dismounting, to recreate our selues, and refresh the beasts, I would often fetch a walke, to stretch my legs, that were stifled with a scumbling beast; wherewith the Turkes were mightily discontented,The reposing of the Turkes. and in derision would laugh, and mucke me: For they cannot abide a man to walke in turnes, or stand to eate; their vsage being such, that when they come from the Horse backe, presently sit downe on the ground, folding their feete vnder them, when they repose, dine, and sup. So do also their Artizans, and all Turkes in the world sit alwaies crosse-legged, wrongfully abusing the commendable consuetudo of the industrious Taylors. In their houses they haue no bed to lie on, nor chaires to sit on, nor Tables to eate on, but a bench made of Boords, along the house side, of a foote height from the floore, spread ouer with a Carpet, whereon they vsually sit, eating, drinking, sléeping, resting, and doing of manuall exercises, all in one place.

They neuer vncloth themselues, when they go to rest, neither haue they any bed-cloathes, saue onely a couerlet aboue them: I haue seene hundreds of them, after this manner, lie ranked like durty swine, in a beastly stie; or loathsome Iades, in a filthy stable. Upon the ninth day (leauing Cotafa behind vs on the Mountaines) wee entred in a pleasant plaine of thrée leagues in length, adorned with many Uillages, Gardens, and Riuers; and arriuing at Damascus, we were all lodged (some in Chambers wanting beds, and others without, on hard stones) in a great Cane called Heramnen, where we stayed one day.

Damascus. Damascus is the capitall Citie of Syria, called by Turkes, Shamma, and is scituated on a faire plaine, and beautified with many Riuers on each side, (especially Pharpar and Abdenah) excellent Orchards, and all other naturall obiects [Page] of elegancie: That for situation, Artizens, all manner of commodities, and variety of fruits, in all the Asiaticall Prouinces it is not paralelled. By Turkes it is called the Garden of Turkie: Some hold this Citie was built by Eleazar the seruant of Abraham; & others say it is the place where Cain slew Abel. But howsoeuer, I perswade thee it is a pleasant and gallant Citie, well walled, and fortified, with a strong Castle: the most part of the stréetes are couered, so that the Citizens are preserued in Summer from the heate, and in Winter from the raine. The like commodity (but not after that forme) hath Padua in Lumbardie: Their Bazar, or market place is also couered, so are commonly all the Bazars in Turkie: Fruites. The best Carobiers, Adams Apples, and Grenadiers that grow on the earth is heere: Néere vnto the Bazar there is a Moskie, called Gemmah, wherein is (as my guide said) the Sepulchre of Ananias, and the Fountaine where he baptized Paul: In another street, I saw the house of Ananias, which is but a hollow Cellar vnder the ground, and where the Disciples let Paul downe through the wall in a basket. In the stréete where they sell their Viano, my Interpretor shewed mee a great gate of fine mettall, which he said was one of the dores of the Temple of Salomon, and was transported thence, by the Tartarians, who conquered Ierusalem about three hundred and eighty yeares age. I saw such aboundance of Rose-water here in barrels, to bee sold as beere or wine, is rife with vs. For the custodie of the aforesaid Castle, and neighbouring Countries, there are two thousand Ianisaries appointed, insomuch that the Bashaw of Damascus is the greatest in authority of all the other Bashaws in Asia: for vnder his commandement, in behalfe of the great Turke, hee detaineth Syria, Phoenicia, Samacia, Galilee, Ierusalem, and all Palestina, euen to the Desarts of Arabia: The meanes of the preseruation of so great a state, is onely by an induced confidence vpon the power and force of those Ianisaries, who as well haue their pay in time of tranquility, as warres, to defend these Countries, [Page] from the incursions of the wiloe Arabs, which euermore annoy the Turkes, and also Strangers; and can not possibly bee brought to a quiet, and well-formed manner of liuing; but are continuall spoylers of these parts of the Turks Dominions. That mischiefe daily increaseth, rather then any way diminisheth:The wickednesse of Arabs. They taking example from the beastly Turkes, adde by these patternes more wickednesse, to the badnesse of their owne dispositions: So that euery one of these Sauages, according to his power, dealeth with all men vnciuily and cruelly, euen like a wildernesse full of wilde beasts, liuing all vpon rapine, wanting all sense of humanity, more then an outward shew of appearance: Whereby combining themselues in strength together, doe tyrannize ouer all, euen from the red Sea to Babylon.

Thus, they in that violent humour, inuading also these of Affricke, hath caused Grand Cayro to be furnished with fiftéene thousand Ianisaries, which defend the frontiers of Egypt and Gozan. Leauing all the Turkes at Damascus (saue onely our Ianisaries and Soldiers) within the space of two houres after our departure from thence, trauelling in our way to Ierusalem the whole company of the Armenians fell on the ground, kissing it, and making many sincere demonstrations of vnwonted deuotion. At the which I being amazed, stood gazing, asking my Trouchman what newes? who replyed, saying, it was the place where Saint Paul was conuerted, which they had (and all Christians should haue) in great regard. Three daies were wee betwixt Damascus, and the East part of Galile, which is the beginning of Canaan, in two of which thrée, wee encountred with Marishes and Quagmires, being a great hinderance to vs:Arabia Petrea. This barren, and marish Countrey, is a part of Arabia Petrea, comming in with a point betweene Galile and Syria. It is vndoubtedly a most théeuish way; for as we trauelled in the night, there were many of vs forced to carry burning Lights in our hands, and our soldiers had their harquebuzes redy to discharge: al to affray [Page] the bloud-thirsty Arabians, who in holes, caues, and bushes, lie obscured, waiting for the aduantage vpon trauellers: Truely with much difficulty, and greater danger passed we these Petrean iournies. Here I remarked a singular qualitie, and rare perfection in the carefull conduction of our Captaine; who would, when he came to any dangerous place, giue the watch-word of S. Iohanne, meaning as much thereby, that none should speake or whisper after that warning, vnder the paine of a Harquebusado. And no more wee durst, vnlesse hee had stretcht out his hand, making vs a figne when occasion serued of liberty, lest by tumultuous noyse in the night, our enemies should haue the fore-knowledge of our comming; and knowing also that the nature of a multitude, bred all times confused effects, without some seuere punishment. Himselfe rod still in the vangard, vpon a lusty Gelding, with two Ianisaries, and fortie Souldiers, and the other foure Ianisaries, and threscore Souldiers were appointed to be the backe-guard, for feare of suddaine assaults. Thus most dexterously discharged he the function of his calling, not with insolency, but with prudency, and magnanimious virilitie: for my part I must néeds say, the diligent care of that benigne Carauan extended ouer mee, was such, that whensoeuer I remember it, I am not able to sacrifice congratulations sufficiently to his well-deseruing minde: yet in the meane while, my purse bountifully rewarded his earnest endeuours, and notwithstanding of this high-conceiued regard, yet in some friuolous things, and for a small trifle, he priuately wronged me, which I mis-knew, as vnwilling (knowing his disposition, and that my life hung in in his hands) to be too forward, to séeke a redresse. Thus it was,Deceitfull dealing. at the paying of my tributes, by the way, for my head, hee caused mee oft to pay more then reason to the Moores. Turkes, and ciuill Arabs, receiuing secretly backe from them the ouer-plus; which my Turkish seruant perceiuing, made my Trouchman tell me, that I might be foreseene therein.

[Page]But such is the couetous nature of Man, that with his couenant he cannot be contented, vnlesse he séeke otherwise by all vnlawfull meanes to purchase himselfe an vniust gaine: but the high respect I had of his other perfections, made mee ouer-sée and winke at that imperfection of auaritiousnesse in him; and especially remembring my selfe to be vnder his protection, I alwayes indeuoured my selfe so, that in his sight, I wonne extraordinary fauour: insomuch that in danger, or security, he would euer haue mee néere by him, which I also craued, and stroue to obserue the poynts of his will, and my owne safety. The Obligation of my bounden duty, taught me to no other end, then euer to respect the beneuolence of his affection, and to suppresse my owne weak iudgment, which could neuer mount to the true acquittance of his condigne merit.

But to procéed in my Pilgrimage, on the aforesaid third day, in the after-noone, wee entred into Galile, passing along a faire bridge that is ouer the riuer Iordan, which diuideth Syria from Galile. This bridge by the Armenians, is called Iacobs bridge; and not farre hence, they shewed me the place where Iacob wrestled with the Angell, and where Esau met his brother Iacob to haue killed him. Iordan is scarcely knowne by the name in this place: but afterward I saw his greater growth, ending in Sodome, whereof in the owne place I shall more amply discourse. Betwéene Iacobs bridge and Ierusalem we had sixe dayes iourney.

A Description of the Holy Land.Aprill the seuenth day, according to the computation of the Roman Kalender, and by ours March the 28, I entred in Galile, a Prouince of Canaan, that sometimes flowed with Milke and Honey. It is commonly called Terra sancta, but by the Scriptures, the Land of Promise. Canaan is diuided into fiue Prouinces, viz. Iudea, Galile, Palestina, Samaria, and Phoenicia. Some diuide it onely into thrée, Palestina, Iudea, and Galile. It hath béene by others also nominated ingenerall, Syria, by which calculation they gathered all the Countries from Cilicia to [Page] Aegypt vnder that name. By later Writers the Holy-Land hath also béene tearmed Palestina. But howsoeuer they differ in descriptions, it is most certaine, that at this day it is onely and vsually diuided into these fiue particular Prouinces. Galile and Palestina for the present are the most fertile and largest Prouinces thereof.

After we had trauelled a great way along the lake of Genesareth, which is of length 8 leagues, and large 4. where I saw the decaied Townes of Bethsaida, and Tiberias, lying on the North side of the same Sea, we left the Marine, and came to Cana, to stay all night; in which we had no Caues to saue vs from the Arabs, nor couerture aboue our heads, but the hard ground to lie on, which was alwayes my bed, in the most part of Asia: In the night when wee slept, the Souldiers kept centenall, and in the day when we reposed, they slept, and we watched. This Cana was the Towne wherein our Sauiour wrought the first Miracle, conuerting, at the Marriage, Water into Wine. The day following, embracing our way, we passed ouer a little pleasant mountaine, where the Armenian Patriarke (for so was there one with them) went into an old Chappell, and all the rest of the Pilgrimes thronged about him, vsing many strange Ceremonies, for it was in that place (as it is sayd) That Christ fed fiue thousand people with fiue Barley loaues and two fishes. Continuing our iourney we saw Mount Tabor on our left hand, which is a pretty round Mountaine, beset about with comely trées: I would gladly haue séene the monument of that place, where the trans-siguration of Christ was, but the Carauan mindfull to visit Nazareth, left the great way of Ierusalem, and would by no perswasion go thither. That night we lodged in a poore village called Heerschek, where we could get neither meat for our selues, nor prouender for the beasts; but some of our company had for their suppers, a hundred strokes from the Moores and Arabs in that place, because the Christian Pilgrimes had troden vpon the graues of their dead friends, which by no meanes they can tolerate: They made no [Page] small vp-rore amongst vs, desperately throwing stones and darts till we were all glad to remoue halfe a mile from that place.

Aprill the tenth day, about ten of the clocke (passing the riuer Kyson) we arriued at Nazareth, and there reposed till the euening, prouiding our selues of victuals and water: In this Towne dwelt Ioseph and the virgin Mary; and in which also our Sauiour was brought vp.

After we had dined, the Armenians arose, and went to a heape of stones, the ruines of an old house, before the which they fell downe vpon their knées, praising God: and that ruinons lumpe (say they) was the house where Mary dwelt when Gabriel saluted her, bringing the Annuntiation of saluation to the world: I am fully perswaded they carried away aboue fiue thousand pound weight to kéepe in a memoriall thereof. Then did I remember mee of the Chappell of Loretta, and told the Carauan that I saw that house standing in Italy, which (as the Romanists say) was transported by the Angels: O, sayd he, we Armenians cannot beléeue that, neither many other assertions of ye Roman Church; for we certainly know by Christians, that haue from time to time dwelt here euer since, that this is both the place, and stones of the house: Let Papists coyne a new law to themselues, we care not: for as they erre in this, so do they in all, following meerly the traditions of men, they run gallopping post to hell. The Patriarke being informed by the laughing Carauan of these newes, asking me in disdaine (thinking it had béene an Article of my beliefe) if I saw the house,Speeches of the Patriarke. or beléeued that the Chappell of Loretta was such a thing: I answered, I did not beléeue it, affirming it was onely but a diuellish inuention, to deceiue the blind-folded people, and to fill the Coffers of the Romane Priests. Now thou bottomlesse gulfe of Papistry, here I forsake thee, no winter blasting Furies of Satans subtill stormes can make ship-wracke of my faith, on the stony shelues of thy deceitfull déepes.

In the time of our staying here, the Emeere or Lord of [Page] the Towne sent sixe women, conducted by twelue of his seruanes, to an Armenian Prince, that was a Pilgrime in our company; to be vsed by him, and others, whom so he would elect to be his fellow labourers: which indéed he did kindly accept, and inuited me to that feast; but I gaue him the refusall, little regarding such a friuolous commodity. He and some of the chifest Pilgrimes entertained them for the space of thrée houres, and sent them backe, giuing to their Conductors 15 Piasters in a reward. Truely, if I would rehearse the impudency of these whoores,The villany of Armenians. and the brutishnesse of the Armenians, as it is most ignominious to the actors; so no doubt it would bee very loathsome to the reader. Such is the villanie of these Orientall Christian-flaues, vnder the Turkes; that not onely by conuersing with them, learne some of their damnable Ethnicke customes, but also going beyond them in beastly sensuality, become worse then bruit beasts: but God, in his iust iudgments, that same night, threatned to haue punished both the doers, and the whole company for their sakes: for we hauing resolued to trauell all that night; and also because the way was rocky, and hard to be knowne, and perillous for Arabs, we hired a Christian Guide, named Ioab, and agréed with him to take vs to Lidda, which was two dayes iourney. But before we tooke horse, Ioab had sent a priuy messenger before vs,A strange conspiracy. to warne about 300 Arabs (who had their abode on the South side of mount Carmel) to méet him at such a place as he had appointed; giuing them to know wée were potent and rich; and that hee should render vs into their hands, to be made the miserable obiect of their cruelty. This being done, and vnknowne to vs, we marched riding faster then an ordinary pace; which our guide suspecting, that by our celerity we should goe beyond the place appointed for his treacherous plot, began to crosse vs grieuously, leading vs vp and downe amongst pooles and holes, whither hee listed; where many of our Cammels and Asses were lost and could not bee recouered, because wee all beganne to suspect and feare; which was the cause that the [Page] owners durst not stay to relieue their perishing Beasts.

In the end the Captaine and Ianisaries en treated him earnestly to bring vs in the right way; but the more they requested, the more obdurate was his heart, replying, hee was mistaken, and could not finde it till day light: vpon the which wordes the company was stayed, and in the meane while there came a Turke, one of our Souldiers, vnto the Captaine, saying; Hee saw the guide, before our departure from Nazareth, send a Moore before him, for what respect he knew not, being long at priuate conference. Wherupon they straight bound him with ropes on a horse backe, threatning him with death, to cause him confesse the truth.

In the midst of this tumult, I hauing got sight of the Northstarre, considered thereby, that the villaine had led vs more to the Southward then to the Westward, which was our way to Ierusalem: Whereupon I entreated the Carauan to turne our faces Northward, otherwise we should bee cut off, and that suddenly: for although (said I) it may peraduenture be, that we are 3 or 4 miles short of the place intended for our massacre; yet they missing vs, wil like rauening Wolues hunt here and there; wherefore if wee incline to the North (God willing) wee shall preuent their bloudy designes. To which aduice (being duly pondered) they yeelded; and so I became their guide in the darks night, till morning: for none of them knew that starre, neither the nature of it. At last this desperate wretch, considering that either by our vanquishing, or the enemies victory, he could not escape, sith his treason was reuealed, began to beg pardon of the Carauan saying, that if he could haue any surety of his life, hee would sufficiently informe vs how to escape these imminent dangers. The Captaine being distracted with feare, replied hee would; and thereupon swore a solemne oath, so did the Ianisaries sweare by the head of Mahomet for the like effect: which being done, he was vntied, and confessed, that if we had continued in our way he led vs, we had beene all put to the edge of the sword, and falling [Page] downe on his knees, cryed oft with teares, mercy, mercy, mercy.

All that night wee went with that starre,The desolation of Tyrus. and against morning wee were in Palestina, neere vnto Tyrus, called now Sur: which Alexander had so much adoe to conquer; being then separated from the maine Continent by the Sea, but now ioyned to the firme Land; and before you come to the Citie, there lieth a great banke of Sand, where it is likely the sea hath beene in Alexanders time, though now, as time altereth euery thing, the sea be fled from that place; which maketh that ruinous Towne more desolate. Aurora no sooner appeared, but we were all encouraged, for the light of day lends comfort. The Captaine (sending backe that false Iudas, for so was hee sworne to doe) sent a Post to Tyrus for a new Guide, who came forthwith, and brought vs in our way to Mount Carmell, for by it we behoued to go.

Great are the mercies of God! for as he hath made man an excellent creature, so hath he also indued him with two great powers in his minde: the one a wise power of vnderstanding, by which hee penetrateth into the knowledge of things; the other a strong power of dexterous resoluing, whereby he executeth things wel vnderstood, for we hauing iudged the worst, resolued the best; and by his Almightie prouidence were fréed from that apparant danger, although the former dayes whoredome, & vnnaturall vices deserued a iust punishment. This I intimate to all trauellers in generall, that if they would that God should further them in their attempts, blesse their voyages, and grant them a safe returne to their natiue Countries (without the which, what contentment haue they for all their paines) that they would constantly refraine from whoredome, drunkennesse, and too much familiarity with strangers: For a traueller that is not temperate, and circumspect in all his actions, although hee were headed like that Herculean Serpent▪ Hydra, yet it is impossible hee can returne in safety from danger of Turkes, Arabs, Moores, wilde beasts, heate, hunger, thirst and cold.

[Page]Approching to mount Carmell, I beheld a farre off vpon the top of the hill, the place where Elias ascended to heauen when he left his Cloke behind him to Elizeus his Disciple. This mountaine is foure miles of length, lying South and North, the North end bordering with the sea, neere to Acre, called anciently Ptolomais; and the South end ioyning with the borders of Samaria.

Leauing Samaria on our left hand, we entred into a faire plaine, adorned with fruitful trees, and all other ornaments that pleasant fields affoord, but no village we saw. Marching thus, about the declining of the Sun from the Meridian, we came in sight of two hundred pauillions, all pitched in rankes, yéelding the prospect of a little Cittie, by a brooke side of water: which being perceiued, the Captaine began to censure what they might be, and immediatly there came riding towards vs, sixe naked fellowes, well mounted on Arabian geldings, who demanded what we were, and whither wee were bound; and if there were any, Frankes of Christendome in our company. To whom the Ianisaries replied, wee were purposed to Ierusalem, and that there was but one Franke with them: vpon the which they presently sought me,Caffar, tribute. demanding Caffar, Caffar, and caused me perforce to pay seuen Chickens of gold for my head; because (say they) our King is now resident in these Tents, he must pay therefore so much the more extraordinary.

They returning backe to their Prince with the malediction of a Pilgrimes purse, and we marching on our way, that day we trauelled aboue 34 miles, and pitched at a village called Adoash; where we found good hearbes to eate, and aboundance of water to drink, and also to fill our emptied bottles: As we lay downe to sléepe after a hungry supper, on the hard ground, and our guard watching vs, that same King of the Arabians, came a little before mid-night with 24 well horsed Runagates, and naked Courtiers, being armed with bowes and arrowes, and halfe-pikes, pointed at both ends with hard stéele; and asked for the Carauan [Page] who presently awoke,The courtesie of Turkes. and went to salute him, laying his hand on his breast, bowed his head very low; which is the vsuall courtesie amongst the Infidels and Christians in these parts: for they neuer vncouer their heads to any man; and after some short parly, they sate all downe on the grasse. The Carauan presented his rude-like Maiesty with water, bread, hearbs, figs, garlike, and such things as he had. As they were thus merry, at this poore banquet, ye awfull King tooke the oath of our Conductor, if there were any mo Frankes there then I; and he hauing sworne the truth, the King by a malignant informer, incontinently, caused me to be brought before him; and staring mee in the face, asked my Interpreter where were my companions? who replyed, I had none: Then, said he, tell that dog, hee must acknowledge me with fiue péeces of gold more,The extortion of the Arabian King. otherwise (making a signe to his owne throate) I shall cut off his head: The which I being informed, and knowing that by no condition, there was resistance against such a scelerate Prince, gaue it to him presently with a halfe smiling countenance; which hee remarking, told the rest, it seemed that I gaue it with a good heart; and to recompence my outward behauiour, he drunke a great draught of water to me, thinking thereby, he had done mee more honour, then all the chickens of gold I gaue him now, and in the morning, would do him profite. Truely, this was one of the greatest tributes I paied for one daies iourney, that I had in all my voyage, in Asia. There are two Kings in Arabia, the one who liueth on Euphrates, the Desarts of Mesopotamia, sometimes in Arabia Felix, and in some parts of Siria: And the other (which was the King to whom I paid this money) wandereth with his Tribes, Tents, and Bestial) one while in Arabia Petrea, and Deserta, and sometimes in the Holy Land, as he findeth good Pastorage, and fresh fountaines. These two Kings are mortall enemies; and if by accident they meete, they fight most cruelly, bringing dammage, rapine, and destruction to themselues, and their followers; for it is a difficult [Page] thing in them to dominate their inordinate passions, being vntamed Sauages, and mis-regarders of ciuility; who continually contend to corroborate the malignity of their dispositions, with bloudy and inhumane enterprises.

The next morning, leauing Iacobs Well, and the Town of Sychar on our left hand,Sychar, of old the chiefest Citie in Samaria, is now altogether ruinated. wee marched through a part of the fields of Basan, and had excéeding pleasant trauelling, and at night we pitched by Lydda on the fields: Lydda is not aboue ten miles from Cesarea. The Townes situated by the Sea side in Palestina are these; Sydon, which standeth on the borders of Zebulon, and Nephtalim, or Phoenicia, being a goodly Citie and well peopled: Tyrus, which is miserably brought to ruine: Acre, that hath yet some indifferent Trade of Merchandize: Caipha, called commonly Castello pellegrino, which hath nothing but the remnants of an ancient Abbay: Cesarea, who reserueth but onely the memory; for there is no hospitality in it, except it be to wilde beasts: Ioppa, or Iaphta, is a sea-port of small Barkes, but the decayed Towne containeth not one dwelling house, saue onely a high Towre, which defendeth the port from Cursares: And Baruti is also thought to bée within Canaan, but that I suspend, as not hauing had the certainety thereof. These are all the Hauens in the Holy Land.

Aprill the thirtéenth, before the breach of day, setting forward, scarcely were we well aduanced in our way, till we were beset with more then three hundred Arabs, who sent vs an vnexpected shoare of arrowes, to the great anoyance of all our company: for if it had not béene, that our souldiers shot of their Guns on a sudden, surely wee had then miserably perished. But the nature of the Arabs is not vnlike to the Iackals: for when any of them heare the shot of a Harquebuse, they run backe with such spéed, as if the fiends of the infernall Court were broken loose vpon them.A massacre of Armenian pilgrimes. In that momentany conflict, on our side, there were killed nine women, fiue men, and about thirty persons [Page] deadly wounded, which to our worthy Captaine bred no small griefe. Till bright day came, wee stayed still in that same place, and buried the slaine people in deep graues, rolling aboue them heauy stones, whereby Iackals should not open their graues to eate the corps: for such is the nature of these cruell beasts, that they onely loue to liue on mans flesh: These rauenous beasts (as is thought) are ingendred of a Fox and a Wolfe.

Procéeding in our iourney, in the Hilly Country of Iudea, we entred, leauing Rhama on our right hand: Rhama is a Towne inhabited by Christians, Arabs, and Moores; not blacke Moores, as the Affricans be, but they are called Mori, which are a kind of Egyptians, and not naturally blacke, but sun-burnt, with the parching heat: The whole Territory of Canaan, is inhabited with these Moores, some Turkes, ciuill Arabs, and a few Christians and scattered Iewes. The Arabians are, for the most part, Theeues, and Robbers, the Moores cruell, and vnciuill, hating Christians to the death: The Turkes are the best of all the thrée, yet all sworne enemies to Christ. But when they know how to make any gaine by strangers, O what a dissimulate ostentation shall appeare in these detestable villaines.

About two of the clocke in the after-noone wee arriued at Berah, called of old Beersheba, being eleuen miles distant from Ierusalem. Hauing a little reposed, we embraced our mountainous way as cheerefully as we could, for we were excéeding faint, and trauelled that day aboue three and forty miles, whereby we might arriue at Ierusalem before the gates were shut, sustaining drouth, heate, hunger, and not a few other inconueniences. At last we beheld the prospect of Ierusalem; which was not onely a contentment to my wearied body, but also being rauished with a kind of vnwonted reioycing, the teares gushed from mine eies for too much ioy. In this time the Armenians began to sing in their owne fashion, Psalmes to praise the Lord; and I also sung the 103 Psalme all the way, till we arriued neere the [Page] walles of the Citie, where wee ceased from our singing for feare of the Turkes.

The Sunne being passed to his nightly repose, before our arriuall, wee found the gates locked, and the Keyes carryed vp to the Bashaw in the Castle; which bred a common sorrow in the company, being all both hungry, and weary; yet the Carauan entreated earnestly the Turkes within, to giue vs ouer the walles, some victuals for our money, shewing heauily the necessity wee had thereof, but they would not, neither durst attempt such a thing: In this time the Guardian of the Monastery of Cordeleirs, Monastery of Friars. who remaineth there to receiue Trauellers of Christendome, hauing got newes of our arriuing, came and demanded of the Carauan, if any Franks of Europe were in his society; And he said, onely one. Then the Guardiano called mee, and asked mee of what Nation I was? and when I told him, he seemed to bee exceeding glad: yet sorrowfull for our misfortune. He hauing knowing my distresse, returned, and sent two Friers to mee with bread, wine and fishes, which they let ouer the wall (as they thought, in a secret place) but they were espied, and on the morrow the Guardiano payed to the Bashaw a great fine, otherwise he had béene beheaded; for the Turkes alledged, he had taken in munition from the Christians, to betray the Citie: This they do oft, for a lesser fault then that was, onely to get bribes, and money from the Grey Friers.

Aprill the foureteenth day, vpon Palme-sunday in the morning, we entred into Ierusalem, and at the gate wee were particularly searched, to the effect wee carried in no furniture of Armes, nor poulder with vs, and the Armenians (notwithstanding they are slaues to Turkes) behoued to render their weapons, to the Keepers, such is the feare they haue of Christians: The gates of the Citie are of yron outwardly, and aboue each gate are brasen Ordinance planted, for their owne defence.

Hauing taken my leaue of the Carauan and the company, [Page] who went to lodge with their owne Patriarke, I kept my way to the aforesaid Monastery; and at the entry of the house, the whole Friers met me, receiuing me ioyfully, and reioyced that a Christian had come from such a farre Countrey to visit Ierusalem: I found here ten Franks newly come from Christendome, and nine others which dwelt in Syria and Cyprus; who were all glad of me, shewing thesemlues so kind, so carefull, so louing, and so honourable in all respects, that they were as kinde Gentlemen as euer I met withall; such is the loue of strangers when they méet in forraigne Countries; they had also in high respect the aduentures of my trauell beyond Ierusalem; troubling me all the while we were together, to tell them newes; and were alwaies in admiration that I had no fellow-pilgrime in my long peregrination.

A Description of Ierusalem, and the memorable things he saw there, and in Iudea: of the Holy Graue, Sodome and Gomorha, Iordan, the Desarts, Grand Cayro, Egypt, the Riuer Nylus, and of his returne to Christendome.

IERUSALEM, is now called by the Turkes, Kuddish which signifieth in their Language, a Holy Citie: It was first called Moriah of Moria, one of the seuen heads of Sion, Antiquity of Ierusalem. where Abraham would haue sacrificed Isaac, Genesis 22.2. and vpon his offring it was called Ierusalem, Gen. 14.18. It was also named Salem, where Sem and Melchisedech dwelt; and Ierusalem was also callled [Page] Iebus 2. Sam. 24.16. And it is the place where Salomon was commanded to build the Temple, 2. Chron. 3.1. which afterward was termed Heiron Salomonis, whence came, by corruption, that word Hierosolyma. Dauid, also in his Psalmes gaue it diuers names.

Ierusalem standeth in the same place where old Ierusalem stood, but not so populous, neither in each respect of bredth, or length, so spacious: for on the South side of Ierusalem, a great part of Mount Syon is left without, which was anciently the heart of the old Citie; and they haue taken on the North side, now both Mount Caluarie, and the holy Graue within the walles, which were built by Sultan Selim: So that thereby the difference of the situation is not so great, though a part thereof be remoued; but a man may boldly affirme, that the most part of this Citie is builded on that place where the first Ierusalem was: As may truely appeare, and is made manifest by these Mountaines, mentioned in the Scriptures, whereupon Ierusalem is both situate, and inuironed about, who reserue their names to this day, and are still seene, and knowne by the same; as Mount Syon, Mount Caluarie, Mount Moriah, and Mount Oliuet. The forme of the situation of Ierusalem, is now like to a Hart or Triangle, the one point whereof looketh East, extending downeward, almost to the valley of Iehosaphat, which diuideth Ierusalem, and Mount Oliuet: The second head of point, bendeth out South-west vpon Syon, bordering néere to the Ualley of Gehinnon: The third corner lyeth on Mount Moriah, toward the North, and by-West, hauing the prospect to the buriall place of the Kings of Israel. The walles are high, and strongly builded with Saxo quadrato, which adorne Ierusalem more then any thing within it, the holy Graue excepted. It is of circuite about thrée miles, and a halfe, of our measure. As touching the former glory of this Citie, I will not meddle withall, nor yet describe, sith the Scriptures so amply manifest the same; and concerning the lamentable destruction of it, I referre [Page] that to the famous Historiographer Iosephus, who largely discourseth, of many hundred thousands famished, and put to the sword within this multi-potent Citie by Vespasian, and Titus his sonne; being the messengers of Gods iust iudgements; which by his computation, amount beyond the number of eleuen hundred thousands.

This Citie hath béene oft conquered by enemies: first, by Nebuchodonosor, The oft conquering of Ierusalem. the Assyrian King: Secondly, by the Greekes, and Alexander the Great, and also maruellously afflicted by Antiochus: Thirdly, it was taken in by Pompeius: Fourthly, destroyed of Vespasian, and Titus: Fiftly, it was re-edifyed by Adrian the Emperrour, and wonne againe by Gosdroes, the Persian King: Sixthly, it was ouercome by Homar Califf the successour of Mahomet: Seuenthly, by the great Souldan of Egypt, and by Godfrey de Bulleine, a Christian Prince: Eightly, by Salidine the Caliph of Egypt, and Damascus; who reserued successiuely the Signiory thereof, for a long time: And lastly, it was surprised by Sultan Selim, or Solyman the Emperor of the Turkes, who fortified the same, being by Infidels detained to this day: And by likly-hood shall keepe it to the consummation of the world, vnlesse God of his mercy deale otherwise, then the hopes of mans weake iudgement can expect. But, to the intent the Reader may the better conceiue, and plainely vnderstand the Monuments I saw within Ierusalem, and the circumiacent places of Iudea; I thought best to prefixe the description thereof, by the seuerall daies, as I saw them, not much condemning, neither absolutely qualifying them, but shall (as it were) neutrally nominate and recapitulate these places, as I was informed, by the Padre Guardiano, who is euery third yeare changed, and especially Iohn Baptista, the Trouch-man, who hath dwelt at Ierusalem 25 yeares: for he that vnderstandeth not promptly the Italian tongue,The ignorāce of Pilgrimes, who can not speake Italian. which they vsually speake when they demonstrate these places to vs; he shall conceiue ignorantly, dispose his iudgement blindfoldedly, & knowes [Page] not how to distinguish the circumstances and qualities of the things deliuered. As I haue knowne some of these Frankes in my company, simply mistaken, euen when the exposition of euery obiect was largely manifested vnto them; and precisely declared such a thing to haue béen there, although perhaps the matter it selfe be euanished and transported.

Aprill 14. on Palm-sunday after dinner, the Guardiano departed from Ierusalem to Bethphage, accompanied with twelue Friers, and many other Orientall Christians, which were come thither to that festiuall time, but I by no meanes would go, reposing my selfe till their returne. The ridiculous ceremony which that day they vse, is thus. In an Apish imitation of Christ, at the foresaid Bethphage, there was an Asse brought to the Guardiano, whereupon he mounted (being as it were, the greater Asse riding vpon the lesser) and came riding to Ierusalem, the people cutting downe boughs of trées, and also dispoyling themselues almost to the skin, bestrewed the way as he rode along, crying, Hosanna, Hosanna, the sonne of Dauid, blessed is he, that commeth in the name of the Lord, vntill they came to the South gate of Sion, where he dismounted. At night after supper, the Guardiano knowing that I was a Protestant, and also some other Frankes, made an Oration, saying, You Pilgrimes, who refuse to bee participant with vs in the Sacraments, or will not adhere to the processions & ceremonies, which we follow of the Roman Church, I would therfore intreate you (your liberty beeing here as much as mine, whereby you may doe whatsoeuer seeme good in our owne eyes) onely to abstaine from scandalizing and mocking our rites & ordinary customes, which at this great feast we must performe. To the which we condescended, and promised to giue no occasion of offence. In the conclusion of his long exhortation, he disclosed this admonition, saying, All you Trauellers must in general be indued with these thrée worthy gifts, Faith, Patience, and Money; Faith, to beléeue these things you shall sée and heare at Ierusalem; Patience, [Page] to endure the apparant iniuries of Infidels; and Money, to discharge all tributes and costs, which here (meaning in his owne Monasterie) and about this Citie, must bee defrayed. His Sermon hee concluded like a grey Frier, as indéed he was; for I am fully perswaded hee little cared for our Faith and Patience, prouiding that our Purses could answere his expectation, as truely we found the triall afterward.

Munday early, wee Pilgrimes went forth to view the Monuments within the Citie, being accompanied with the Padre Viccario, and a French Predicatore: the places of any note we saw, were these; First they shewed vs the place where Christ appeared to Mary Magdalen, who said, Touch me not, for I am not as yet ascended to my Father, Ioh. 20, 15. and in this place by them is supposed to be the center, or middle part of the world. Next, where S. Iames the first Bishop of the primitiue Church was beheaded; then the house of S. Thomas, but that is doubtfull (say they) because it is not yet confirmed by the Papall Authority; from thence they brought vs to the place where Annas one of the high Priests dwelt, and also the trée to which our Sauiour was bound, whiles Annas was making himselfe ready to leade him to Caiaphas, but that I will not beléeue, for that trée groweth yet, being an Oliue trée. They shewed vs also the house where S. Peter was imprisoned, and where Zebedeus the father of Iames and Iohn dwelt, which are nothing but a lumpe of ruines.The Abisines are borne naturally blacke, and these silly religious men of them that stay at Ierusalem, weare on their heads flot round caps of a blackish colour, & on their bodies linnen clothes. Thence we came to the decaied lodging of Caiphas, without the Citie, vpon the mount Sion, wherevpon there is Chappell builded, and at the entry of that little domo, we saw the stone on which the Cocke crew, when Peter denied Christ. Within the same place is the Stone that was rolled to the Sepulchre doore of our Sauiour; being now made an Altar to the Abasenes, a kinde of people which came from Prester Iehans dominions. And within that Chappell they shewed vs a narrow pit, wherein (say they) Christ was incarcerate the night before hee was brought to the Iudgement Hall.

[Page]Upon the same side of Sion we saw the place where Christ Christ did institute the Sacraments; and not farre hence, a decayed house, where (say they) the Holy Ghost descended vpon the Apostles, and also the Sepulchre of Dauid, and his sonne Salomon: ouer the which there is a Moskée, wherein no Christian may enter to sée these Monuments.

From thence we returned, and entred in via dolorosa, the dolorous way, by which our Lord and Sauiour passed, when hee went to bee crucified; and at the end of the same stréet, here (say they) the Souldiers met Simon of Cyrene, and compelled him to helpe Christ to beare his Crosse when he fainted. Pilats iudgement Hall is altogether ruinated, hauing but onely betwéene the two sides of the Lane, an old Arch of stone, vnder the which I passed, standing full in the high way. Here they shewed vs the place where Christ first tooke vp his Crosse, and on the toppe of that Arch wee saw that place called Gabbatha, where Iesus stood, when Pilate said to the Iewes, Ecce homo. A little below this, they brought vs to the Church of S. Anna, where (say they) the virgin Mary was borne. And going downe another narrow lane, they pointed vnto a house, and said, here Diues the rich Glutton dwelt, who would not giue to Lazarus the crummes of bread that fell from his table; this I suspend, amongst many other things, for all hold it to be a Parable, and not a History: and although it were a Historie, who can demonstrate the particular place, Ierusalem hauing béen so often transformed by alterations. This I must néeds say, with such lying wonders these flattering Friers bring strangers into a wonderfull admiration, and although I rehearse all I saw there, yet I will not beléeue all, onely publishing them as things indifferent, some whereof are friuolous, and other somewhat more credible: but as I said before, I will make no (or very small) distinction in the relation.

From thence we came without the Easterne gate, vnto an immoueable stone, vpon the which they said S. Stephen [Page] was stoned to death; and néere to that we saw Porta aurea, that is, the golden port, called in former times, the beautifull Gate of the Temple: which the Turkes haue filled vp with stones, because of a Prophesie, viz. That the Citie was once wonne there, and shall bee wonne againe at the same place.

As we returned to the Couent, they brought vs to mount Moriah, and shewed vs the place where Abraham offered vp Isaac, which is in the custody of Nigroes, or Aethiopians. Next, the place where Iesus said, Daughters of Ierusalem, mourne not for me, &c. And néere vnto this, where the virgin Mary fell into an agony, when Iesus passed by carrying his Crosse. Also not facre hence, we beheld the place, where (as they say) Iesus said, Mother, behold thy Sonne.

Ascending more vpward, they shewed vs the house of Veronica Sancta, and said, that our Sauiour going by her doore, all in a sweate, to mount Caluary, she brought him a napkin to wipe his face; which he receiued, and gaue it her againe: in which (say they) the print of his face remaineth to this day, and is to be séene at Rome. It is also said to be in a Towne in Spaine, wherefore I beléeue the one as well as the other. As touching the Temple of Salomon, which was destroyed, there is another great Temple builded in the same place, reserued by Turkes, for that affection they carry to Salomon; néere the which no Christian may come, vnder the paine of loosing his head. These are all the monuments which in one day I saw within Ierusalem; but as for Mount Caluary, and the Holy Graue, I saw them afterward, which in their owne place shall be orderly touched. As we were spending that day in these sights, the Guardian had prepared an hundred Souldiers, sixty Horsmen, and forty foot-men to take with him the day following, for his conduction to Iordan, and the Mountaine in the Wildernesse whore Christ fasted; which is his vsuall custome once euery yeare, betwéene Palme-sunday and Easter, returning againe before Good-Friday. These places [Page] cannot be viewed, saue onely at that time; neither may a Pilgrime goe along with the Souldiers vnlesse hee giue the value of seuen French Crownes (as a propyne) vnto the Lieuetenant: that same night after supper the Guardian demanded of vs Trauellers, if we would go with him to sée these memorable and singular things, vpon the former condition: To whom we answered in a generall consent, Wée would.

Early vpon Tuesday morning (being all of vs, both Friers and Pilgrimes, well mounted, and Mulets laden for our prouision) wee departed from the Citie with our Souldiers; and trauelled all that day through a barren and desart Countrey, till sun-setting, where wee reposed by a standing well, till an houre within night. After that the Captaine had cried Catethlanga, that is, march away; wee set forward, being well guarded round about with our kéepers, because we entred into a dangerous way. In all this deformed Countrey we saw neither house nor village, for it is altogether desartous, and inhabited onely by wilde beasts, and naked Arabians. Before we came néere to Sodome and Gomorha by seuen miles (for so we behoued to passe by ye East end of it, before we could ariue at that place of Iordan which we intended) wee I say encountred with such deepe sandy ground, that the Mulets were not able to carry vs through: whereupon wee all dismounted, wrestling and wading aboue the middle part of our bodies, and sometimes falling in ouer our heads, we were in great danger of perishing. Euen in the middest of this turmoyling paine (the night being darke) the vnwelcomed Arabs inuironed and inuaded vs with a storme of arrowes which they sent from the tops of little hard hils, whereupon they stood,Inuasions of Arabs. for knowing the aduantage of the ground, they tooke opportunity to giue the more fearfull assaults; yet they preuailed nothing (although they wounded some of our Souldiers) such was the resolute courage of our valorous defendants. True it is, that in all my trauels, I was neuer so sore fatigated, or fearfully indangered, as I was that night.

[Page]A little after midgnight,A true description of Sodom and Gomorha. we left this troublesome way, and marched along the Lake of Sodome: This Lake is called Mare Mortuum, the dead sea: for of it selfe it is vnmoneable, such is the stability of the water: It is also called so, because if a bird flie ouer it, she presently falleth downe therein dead: and, as Salomon reporteth of it, Wisd. 10.7. it smoaketh continually; from whence proceed filthy vapours; which deforme the fields lying about for certaine mils, as it were blasted, scorched, and made vtterly barren: This smoake I take onely to be but the exhalation of Iordan; for this riuer falling into it, and there ending his course, the two contrary natures cannot agree: the one being a filthy puddle, and the other a pure water, as I shall more approbably record. This Lake is eighty miles in length, and sixe in bredth, being compassed with the rocks of Arabia Petrea on the South: on the North, with the sandy hils of the wildernesse of Iudea: on the West, with the steepy Mountaines of Arabia deserta: and on the East, with the plaine of Iericho. How commeth it to passe therefore, that the fresh running flood of Iordan, falling euermore into this bounded sea; that the Lake it selfe, neuer diminisheth, nor increaseth, but alwaies standeth at one fulnesse: neither hath it any issuing forth, nor reboundeth backwards on the plaine of Iericho, which is one of the greatest wonders in the world. Wherefore, as I haue said, it must néeds either exhale to the clouds, or otherwise runne downe to Hell; for if it ranne vnder the rockes, and so burst forth in the desarts, it would soone be knowne; but in all the bounds of Arabia deserta, which betwixt this Lake and the red Sea, extend to three hundred miles; there is no such matter, as brooke, or strand, much lesse a riuer.

It bréedeth nor reserueth no kind of fishes; and if by the swelling of Iordan, any fishes be carryed to it, they immediatly die. Although Iosephus witnesseth, that in his time there was an Apple grew vpon the bankes thereof, like to the colour of gold; and within was rotten, and would [Page] consume to powder; yet I affirme now the contrary: for there is not such a thing (whatsoeuer hath béene in his daies) as either trees, or bushes, grow néere to Sodome by many miles: such is the consummation of that pestiferous gulfe: Diuers Authors haue reported, that nothing will sinke into it, of any reasonable weight, as dead men, or carkasses of beasts; but by experience I approue the contrary: for it beareth nothing aboue at all; yea, not the weight of a feather. The water it selfe, is of a blackish colour, and at sometimes in the yeare, there are terrible shapes, and showes of terror in it, as I was informed at Iericho, which is the néerest Towne that bordereth thereupon.

This contagious, and pestilentious lake of Sodome, resembleth much (as may be supposed) that infernall gulfe of Hell; but in my opinion, I hold it to be the purgatory of Papists: for they say Limbus Patrum is neere, or in the second roome to hell, which I thinke must néedes be Sodome for although it bee not Hell it selfe, yet I am perswaded, it is a second Hell, hauing (as some report) no botome. Wherefore I conclude thus, that since Papists will haue a Purgatory, I absolutely affirme, it must be such a Purgatory, as the purging of Sodom and Gomorha; which was with fire and brimestone.

About the breach of day on Tuesday morning, we past by the ruines of an old house; where (as they say) Saint Iohn the Baptist remained, when hee baptized those that came from Ierusalem, and other Regions about, which is but the flight of an arrow from Iordan. Iordans water is of a whitish colour. Approaching to the banke-side, we dismounted, and vncloathed ourselues, going in naked to the riuer, we washed, vs to refresh our bodies: In this place, as the Guardiano said, was Christ baptized of Saint Iohn, when the Holy Ghost came downe in a bodily shape, like a Doue vpon him, and there was a voice from heauen,Luke 3.22. saying: Thou art my beloued Sonne, in thee I am well pleased. I saw also an apparant like testimony, of a quadrangled stone, lying on the banke side, whereupon are ingrauen letters, of Hebrew, Greeke, and Latine, testifying [Page] the same thing; and may also bee so coniectured, in regard of the ancient Habitacle, of that precursor, which is not farre from thence.

This Riuer Iordan beginneth in Mount Libanus, two Fountaines, Iore, and Dan, which run separated, till they come to the lake Maronah; and hence it maketh one body, keeping his course through the Lake Genesereth, endeth in Sodome. The riuer Tibris at Rome, and Iordan, are not much different in quantity and colour; and not vnlike in their courses:A comparison betwixt Iordan and Tybris, whose colour and growth are both alike, and their courses agreeable thereunto. for Iordan falleth in the old Gomorah, and Tibris runneth through the new Sodome; A Historie of such euidence, as trauell taught mee by experience: for it is the Priests confluence, which breeds in the Italians insolence: If I erre, I will begge indulgence of the Popes Aureat Magnificence. The water of Iordan hath beene transported to Venice in barrels, for that purity it hath; which will reserue vnspoyled, both monthes, and yeares, and the longer it is kept, it is the more fresher; and to drinke, it is an excellent remedy for the feuer Quartan, and Quotidian.

Considering the ancient reputation of this famous Riuer, and the rare fight of such an vnfrequented place, I climed vp to the toppe of a Turpentine Trée, which grew within the limited floud, euen naked as I came from swimming, and cut downe a faire hunting rod, which afterward, with great paines, I brought to England, and did present it (as the rarest gemme of a Pilgrimes treasure) to his Maiesty. But I remember in the choosing thereof, an vnexpected accident fell out: for I being sequestrate from the sight of the company, vpon his solitary tree, with broad obscuring leaues, the Friers and Souldiers remoued, kéeping their course towards Iericho; but within two furlongs from Iordan, they were baset with the formed Nocturnall enemies, who assailed them with a hard conflict: For I heartng the Harquebuse goe off, was straight in admiration, and looking downe to the place where I left my associates, they were gone; so bending my [Page] eyes a little further in the plaine, I saw them at a martiall combat: which sight, gaue mee suddenly, the threatning of despaire, not knowing whether to stay intrenched, within the circumdating leaues, to approue the euents of my auspicious fortunes: or in prosecuting a reliefe, to bée participant of their doubtfull deliuerance. In the end pondering, I could hardly, or neuer escape their hands, leapt downe from the Tree, leauing my Turkish cloathes lying vpon the ground, tooke onely in my hand the rod, and Shasse which I wore on my head,The danger of the Author being left alone vpon the bankes of Iordan. and ran starke naked aboue a quarter of a mile, amongst Thistles, and sharpe pointed grasse, which pittifully be-pricked the soles of my féete. Approaching on the safe side of my company, one of our souldiers broke forth on horse-backe, being determined to kill mee for my staying behind; yea, and thrée times he stroke at me with his halfe pike, but his horse being at his spéed, I preuented his cruelty, first by falling downe, next by running in amongst the thickest of the Pilgrimes, recouering my beast: Which when the Guardiano espied, and saw my naked body, he presently pulled of his Gowne, and threw it to me, whereby I might hide the secrets of nature: By which meanes (in the space of an houre) I was cloathed thrée manner of waies: first, like a Turke: secondly, like a wilde Arabian: and thirdly, like a Grey Frier; which was a barbarous, a sauage, and a religious habite.

The Captaine mitigating the fury of the Arabs, by some contributing promises, we marched toward Iericho: where we reposed, and dined, on the prouision carryed with vs. After dinner wee arose, and went to the house of Zacheus, (this was hee who sate vpon a Trée to sée our Sauiour as hee passed by) the wals whereof stand to this day. Iericho is now a poore Village onely of nine dwelling houses, inhabited by a kind of Arabs (which are in subiection vnder the Gouernour of Ierusalem) but I saw many ruiuous lumpes of the walles, and demolishings of the old Towne. Here I saw two most dainty kind of fruits, the [Page] one was a little lesser then an Apple,A rate kind of Apples. but more round; whose coulour was like to gold without, and within it was white as snow, and swéet like sugar. I would gladly haue eaten of them, but the Friers forbad me, saying; they were the onely pest and death vnto a stanger. The other Apple was like to a gréene Lemmon, long, and full of knots, of a reddish colour, like to a Mellone, being both delicate and wholesome; of which we did eate to satisfie the Natural appetite. From Iericho we set forward in the way of the Wildernesse, our determination being such, as to view the Mountaine whereon Christ fasted fortie dayes: where arriued, being late, we durst not go vp till morning. Wherefore we pitched that night by the fountaine of Elizeus; the water of which was of old naturally bitter, but by the praiers of that diuine Prophet, was restored to a sweet taste: It is also excellent in digestion, and wil do a man no harme: for I estéeme it to be the lightest water the earth yéeldeth. Hauing on the morrow filled a Boares skinne of it, to carry with mee to the mountaine, I found it so light, that I had no weight nor paine in the bearing it on my shoulders, notwithstanding the way it selfe was fastidious.

This Mountaie is called Quarantanam, or Quaranto, being of height,The mountain in the wildernesse, wherupon Christ fasted 40 dayes. by the computation of my painfull experience, aboue sixe miles, and groweth from the bottome still smaller and smaller, till that the top is couered with a little Chappell, not vnlike to the proportion of a Pyramide. There is no way to ascend vpon this Hill, saue one, which hath béene hewen out of the rocke, by the industry of men experimented in Masonry; (which was done at the cost of Quéene Helen) going vp by the degrées of 45 turnes. In all our company there were onely thrée Friers, foure Pilgrimes, and I, that durst attempt to climbe the mountaine. After diuers dangers, and narrow passages, hauing come to the top, we entred into a caue ioyning to the Chappell, where (say they) in this place did Christ fast, and here it was that he rebuked Sathan. In our returne againe, wee [Page] had a most fearfull descending: for one Frier Laurenzo had fallen fiue hundred fadomes ouer the rocke, and broke his necke, if it had not béene for mee, who rashly and vnaduisedly endangered my owne life for his safety; as my patent vnder the great seale of Ierusalem, beareth sufficient testimony thereof. To recite all the circumstances of his deliuerance, would moue some merriment to the reader, which I purposely omit to auoyd tediousnesse.

Hauing saluted our Padre Guardiano, and the rest of our expecters, in our way as wee returned to Ierusalem, wée rode by a ruinous Abby, where (say they) S. Ierome dwelt, and was sed there by wild Lyons. Upon Thursday at night before Good-Friday, wee went to the Holy Graue, where we staied Friday, Saturday, & on Sunday, which was Easter day, we came forth: first, before we entred the Church, we gaue euery one of vs Pilgrimes, nine Chickens of gold to the Turkes, who are kéepers of the doore: next, two Chickens for our first entring the Citie: Thirdly, vnto the Padre Guardiano thrée péeces of gold, for the candles; and other things he spent in their owne ceremonies, which we behoued to pay. Both mount Caluary and the holy Graue are comprehended within one Church.

After we entred, the first place of any note we saw, was the place of Unction, which is a foure squared stone, inclosed about within an Iron Reuele, on which (say they) the dead body of our Sauiour lay, and was embalmed, after hee was taken from the Crosse, whiles Ioseph of Arimathea was preparing that new Sepulchre for him, wherein neuer man lay. From thence we came to the holy Graue.

A plaine description of the Holy Graue.The holy Graue is couered with a little Chappell, standing within a round Quire, in the west end of the Church: It hath two low and narrow entries. As wee entred the first doore, the Guardiano fell downe, ingenochiato, and kissed a stone, whereupon (hee said) the Angell stood when Mary Magdalen came to the Sepulchre, to know if Christ was risen on the third day, as he promised. And within the [Page] entry of the second doore, wee saw the place where Christ our Messias was buried, and prostrating our selues in great humility, euery man according to his religion, offered vp his prayers to God. The sepulchre it selfe is eight foote and a halfe in length, and aduanced about thrée foot in height from the ground, and three foot fiue inches broad, being couered with a faire Marble stone of white colour. In this Chappell are alwayes burning aboue fifty Lampes, maintained by Christian Princes, and they stand within a band of pure gold, which is excéeding sumptuous; hauing the names of those, who sent or gaue them, ingrauen vpon the vpper edges of the round circles. I demanded of the Guardiano if any part of the Tombe were yet extant, who replied, there was; but because (said he) Christians resorting thither, being deuoutly moued with affection to the place, carryed away part thereof, which caused S. Helen to inclose it vnder this stoue; whereby some reliques of it should alwayes remaine. I make no doubt but that same place is Golgotha, where the holy Graue was, as may appeare by the distance betweene Mount Caluary and this sacred Monument; which extendeth to forty of my paces. This Chappell is outwardly decored with fifteene couple of Marble Pillars, and of 22 foot high; and aboue the vpper Couerture of the same Chappell, there is a little sixe-angled Turret made of Cedar Wood, couered with lead, and beautified with sixe small Columnes of the same trée.

The forme of the Quiere wherein it standeth, is like vnto that ancient Rotundo in Rome, but a great deale higher and larger, hauing two gorgeous Galleries one aboue another, and adorned with magnificent Columnes, being open at the toppe, with a large round, which yéeldeth to the heauens the prospect of that most sacred place. From thence we marched to Mount Caluary, where we ascended by one and twenty steps, made partly of Wood, and partly of Alabaster stone: and there I saw a hole in a rocke of a cubite deepe, beautified with thicke boords of siluer, and ingrafted [Page] letters; in which (say they) the Crosse stood whereon our Sauiour was crucified. Leauing Mount Caluary on our left hand, we came to the Tomb of Godfrey de Bullion, who was the first proclaimed Christian King of Ierusalem, and refused to be crowned there, saying, it was not decent, the seruants head should be crowned with gold, where the Masters head had béene crowned with thornes; hauing this inscription engrauen on the one side:

Hic iacet inclytus Godfridus de Bullion, qui totam hanc terram acquisiuit cultui diuino, cuius anima requiescat in pace.

And ouer-gainst it, is the Tombe of King Baldwine his brother, which hath these Uerses in golden Letters curiously indented.

Rex Baldevinus, Iudas alter Machabeus.

Spes patriae, Vigor Ecclesiae, Virtusvtriusque;

Quem formidabant, cui dona, tributa ferebant.

Caesar Aegypti Dan, ac homicida Damascus.

Proh dolor! in modico clauditur hoc Tumulo.

The other things within the Church they shewed vs, were these, a marble pillar, whereunto (say they) our Sauiour was bound, when he was whipped and scourged for sakes: the place in a low Cellar, about 14 degrées vnder the ground where the Crosse was hid by the Iewes, and found againe by S. Helen: the place where Christ was crowned with Thornes, which is reserued by the Abasines, and where the Souldiers cast lots for his Garments; the place where he was imprisoned, whiles they were making of his Crosse, and where the Crosse being laid along vpon the ground, our Sauiour was nailed fast to it; the Rocke, which (as they say) rent at his crucifying, which is more likely to be done with hammers, and set one péece a foote from another, for the slit lookes, as if it had béen cleft with wedges and béetles.

And lastly they take vpon them below Caluary to shew [Page] where the head of Adam was buried. These and many other things are so doubtfull, that I doe not register them for truth (I meane in demonstrating the particular places) but onely relate them as I was informed.

There are seuen sorts of Nations,The life of religious Christians. different in Religion and language, who continually (enduring life) remaine within this Church, hauing incloystred lodgings ioyning to the walles thereof: Their victuals are brought daily to them by their familiars, receiuing the same at a great hole in the Church doore: for the Turkes seldome open the entry, vnlesse it be when Pilgrimes come: for this purpose each family haue a Bell fastned at their lodging, with a string reaching from thence to the Church doore, the end wherof hangeth outwardly; by the which commodity each furnisher ringing the Bell, giueth warning to his friends, to come receiue their necessaries. The number of those, who are tied to this austere life, are about 350 persons being Italians, Greekes, Armenians, Aethiopians, Iacobines, a sort of circumcised Christians, Nestorians and Chelfaines of Mesopotamia. The day before the resurrection, about the houre of Mid-night, the whole Sects and sorts of Christians Orientall (that were come thither in Pilgrimage, and dwelt at Ierusalem) conuened together, which were about the number of 6000 men, women and children: for being separated by the Patriarkes in two companies, they compassed the Chappell of the holy Graue nine times; holding in their hands, burning Candles, made in the beginning pittifull and lamentable regréetings, but in the ending, there were touking of Kettle-drummes, sounding of horne-trumpets, and other instruments, dauncing, leaping, and running about the sepulchre, with an intolerable tumult, as if they were all mad, or distracted of their wits. Thus is the prograce of their procession performed in meere simplicitie, wanting ciuilitie and gouernment. But the Turks haue a care of that; for in the midst of all this hurly-burly, they run amongst them with long roddes, correcting their mis-behauiour with cruell strokes. Thus are the slauish [Page] people, euen at the height of their ceremonious deuotion, strangely abused.

An order of Knight-hood.Here the Guardiano offered for ten péeces of gold, (although my duébe 30 Chickens said he) to make me knight of the holy Graue, or of the Order of Ierusalem, which I refused, knowing the condition of that detestable Oath I behooued to haue sworne; but I saw two other Pilgrimes receiue that Order of Knight-hood. The manner whereof is thus; First they binde themselues with a solemne vow, to pray (enduring life) for the Pope, King of Spaine, and Duke of Venice, from whom the Friers receiue their maintenance; and also in speciall for the French King, by whose meanes they obtaine liberty of the great Turke to frequent these monumentall places. Secondly, they are sworne enemies to all Protestants, and others, who will not acknowledge the superiority of the Roman Church. Thirdly, they must pay yearely some stipend to the order of the Franciscans. These attestations ended, the Frier putteth a gilded spurre on his right héele, causing the yong made knight to stoop down on his knées, and lay his hands on the holy Graue: after this he taketh a broad sword from vnder his gowne (being priuately carried for feare of the Turks) which is (as he said) the sword wherwith victorious Godfrey conquered Ierusalem, & giueth this new vpstart Caualiero, nine blowes vpon his right shoulder. Loe here the fashion of this Papisticall Knight-hood, which I forsooke. After our Guardiano had ended his superstitious rites and ceremonies, vpon Easter day wee returned to the Monasterie, hauing stayed thrée dayes within that Church.

Aprill the two and twentie, on Munday morning, the Padre viccario, and the aforesaid Iohn Baptista accompanying vs, we rode abrode in the hilly Countrey of Iudea. In this dayes iourney, the places of any note wee saw were these; First, where the Daughters of Ierusalem came forth to méete Saul, crying Saul hath slaine his thousand, and Dauid his his ten thousand. Next, the valley of Trebin, [Page] where Dauid slew the great Goliah. Thirdly, Bezura, where Absalom kild his brother Ammon for Thamars sake, whereof nothing but the name is onely reserued. Fourthly, the Castle of Emaus, in which our Sauiour was knowne after his resurrection,Emaus, or Nicopoli. by the two Disciples, in breaking of bread. Fifthly, the valley of Gibeon, where the Sun stood at the voyce of Ioshua, from his naturall course, Ioshua 10 12. Sixthly, the Toombe of Samuel, ouer the which Moores haue a Moskee erected.A Turkish Church. Seuenthly, the Toombes of the valiant Captaine Iudas Macchabeus, and his children, whereupon are now onely the ruines of an old Chappell. And last of all, the buriall place of the Noble Family of the Kings and Quéenes of Israel, or Ierusalem: The entry whereof was so straight, that on our backes we behoued to slide downe, aboue ten paces vnder the ground, with light Candles in our hands. In that spacious place wee saw 24 Chambers hewen out of a marble rocke. Each roome hath a hanging stone doore of a great thicknesse, so artificially done by the skilfull Art of Masons, that the rarest spirit of 10000 cannot know how these doores haue béene made, so to moue as they do, being afirme rocke both below and aboue; and the doores haue neither yron nor timber worke about them: but by cunning are made so to turne, and in that same place where they grew they are squared; yea, and so exquisitely done, that the most curious Carpenter cannot ioyne a péece of boord so neatly, as these stone doores ioyne with the Rocke. In each of these roomes are two Sepulchres, wherein I saw the bones of some of these dead Princes.

Tuesday the tenth day of my being at Ierusalem, we issued forth of the Citie early, with our aforesaid Guides, riding Westward: The first remarkeable thing wee saw, was the place (as they say) where the Crosse grew, whereon Christ suffered; being reserued by Greekes, who haue a Couent builded ouer it. That Crosse is said to haue béene of foure sundry kindes of wood, and not of one Trée, for they shewed vs but one hole wherein it grew, and so they hold it [Page] to haue béene all of one péece of Oliue trée; but this I suspend, leauing it to be searched by the pregnancy of riper iudgements then mine. About fiue miles further, we arriued at a village on the mountaine of Iudea; where wee saw a dis-inhabited house, in which Elizabeth the mother of S. Iohn Baptist dwelt when Mary came vp from Galile to salute her; and néere to this we beheld (as they say) the Sanctuary wherein Zacharias was stricken dumbe till Elizabeth was deliuered. Two miles further, on a rocky mountaine, we arriued at a caue, wherein (say they) S. Iohn did his penance till he was 19 yeares of age, after which time he went downe to dwell at Iordan: It is a pretty fine place hewen out of a rock, to the which we mounted by 12 steps, hauing a window cut through of a great thicknesse of firme stone, whence we had the faire prospect of a fruitfull valley: and from the mouth of this delectable Grotto gushed forth a most delicious fountaine.

Returning thence, wee passed ouer an excéeding high Mountaine, from whence we saw the most part of Iudea; and to the Westward in the way of Egypt, the Castle of the Prophet Elisha. Descending on the South side of the same Hill, we arriued at Philips fountaine, in which he baptized the Eunuch of Ethiopia, standing full in the way of Gaza. Here we paid some certaine Madins vnto the Moores of the village, so did wee also for the sight of euery speciall Monument in Iudea.

At night we lodged in Bethleem in a Monastery of the same Franciscans of Ierusalem: after supper we went all of vs (hauing Candles) to the place where our Sauiour was borne; ouer the which there is a magnificent Church builded: But before wee came where the Crubbe had béene, wee passed certaine difficile wayes; where (being arriued) we saw no Monument thereof, saue onely they did demonstrate the place, which is adorned with Marble, Saphyre, and Alabaster Stones. Not farre from that they shewed vs the place ouer the which the starre stayed, that conducted the thrée Wisemen from the East. From thence [Page] they brought vs to a Caue without the Towne, wherein (say they) the Uirgine Mary was hid, when Herod persecuted the Babes life (from which also being warned by the Angell) Shee, and Ioseph, fled downe into Egypt with the Childe.

The earth of this Caue is white as snow, and hath this miraculous operation, that a little of it drunke in any liquor, to a woman that after her childe-birth is barren of milke, shall foorthwith giue aboundance: which is not onely aualieable to Christians, but also Turkish, Moorish, and Arabianish women, who will come from far Countries, to fetch of this earth. I haue séene the nature of this dust practised, wherefore I may boldly affirme it, to haue the force of a strange vertue.

Wednesday following, wee hired foure and twenty Moores, to conduct vs vnto Salomons fish ponds, which are onely thrée, being neuer a whit decayed; And to Fons Segnatus, whence commeth the water in a stone Conduit, along the Mountaines that serueth Ierusalem, which worke was done by Salomon. Returning thence, and kéeping our way Southward, we passed through the Ualley of Hebron, where Iacob dwelt,Abraham, Isaac, and Iacob were interred at Hebron. and entred into the fields of Sychem; where Iacobs sonnes kept their fathers sheepe: and not farre hence, they shewed vs a dry pit, which they called Iosephs pit, that was at Dothan, wherein hee was put by his brethren, before they sold him to the Ismaelites. In our backe comming to Bethleem, we saw a Caue in the Desart of Ziph, wherein Dauid hid himselfe, when hee was persecuted by King Saul, and the field Adra, where the Angels brought the glad tydings of saluation vnto the Shepeheards.

Bethleem, Bethleem. is the pleasantest Uillage in all Iudea, situated on a pretty hill, and fiue English miles from Ierusalem: It produceth commodiously, an infinite number of Oliue, and Figge-trees, some Cornes, and a kind of white wine, wherewith wee were furnished all the time of our abode there; also in, and about Ierusalem. In our way as we came [Page] backe to the Citie, the Viccario shewed vs a little Moskee, kept by Turkes, in which (said he) was the Toombe of Rachell, Iacobs wife, who dyed in that place, as she was trauelling from Padan-Aram, with her husband Iacob. The foundation also of a house, where Habacuck the Prophet dwelt; a Trée growing yet by the way side, vnder the which (say they) the Uirgin Mary was wont to repose her her selfe in trauelling. Wee saw also a naturall rocke in the high way, whereon (say they) Elias oft slept, and is not ashamed to say, that the hollow dimples of the stone, was onely made by the impression of his body: as though the tender flesh of man could leaue the print of his portraiture on a hard stone. And not farre from this, they shewed vs the place, where the Starre appeared to the Wise-men, after they had left Herod, to seeke for the Sauiour of mankind. Approaching Mount Sion, wee saw a quadrangled dry pond, wherein (say they) Beershaba the wife of Vrias, was washing, when Dauid looked forth at his window, and was bewitched by her beauty. Ouer against this place, on the North side of Gehinnon, we saw the ruines of a Palace wherein Dauid dwelt, which hath béene one of the angles of the ancient Citie, and standeth at the diuision of the valley Ennon, which compassed (as a ditch) the North part of Mount Sion, euen to the valley of Iehosaphat, being now filled vp with fragments of old walles, and the valley of Gehinnon lying West, and East, bordering along the south side of Sion, til it ioyne also with the valley of Iehosaphat, which inuironeth the East, and deualling parts of Ierusalem. Néere to this demolished Tower, wee sawe the habitation of Simeon, who hauing seene the blessed Messias, said: Now Lord let thy seruant depart in peace, for mine eyes haue seene thy saluation.

Aprill 25. and the twelfth day of my abode there, early on Thursday morning, the Guardiano, twelue Friers, and Iohn Baptista (because that was the last day of seeing any more Monuments, or was to bee seene there) accompanied vs: as wee issued at the South gate of the Citie, we came [Page] to a place, on the skirt of Sion, where (say they) Peter after his denyall of Christ, wept bitterly.

Descending by the side of that same Hill, we crossed the valley Gehinnon, Acaldema. and came to Acaldema, the Potters field, or field of bloud, which is a little foure-squared roome, three parts whereof are inuironed with a naturall rocke, and the fourth square bordering with the valley, is made vp of stone worke: The top is couered, and hath thrée holes, where-through they let the dead Christians fall downe; for it is a buriall place of Pilgrimes to this day. As I looked downe, I beheld a great number of dead corpes, some whereof had white winding sheetes, & newly dead, lying one aboue another in a lumpe, yeelded a pestilent smell, by reason they were not couered with earth, saue onely the architecture of a high vault, which maketh, that in a long time the corpes cannot putrifie and rot.

Neere vnto this Campo, wee entred into a darke Caue, where (say they) the Apostles hid themselues, when Christ was taken. At the foote of the same Ualley, wee came to Ponto Nehemia, in which place the Iewes did hide the holy fire, when they were taken captiues to Babylon; walking more downe-ward, toward the valley of Iehosaphat, wee saw a darke cellar vnder the ground without windowes, wherein (said the Guardian) the Idolatrous Iewes made a sacrifice of their children vnto a brasen Image called Moloch, The Idoll Moloch. which being made hote, they inclosed them in the hollownesse thereof, and so slew them: and least their crying should haue moued any compassion towards them, they made a thundring noyse with drummes, and other instruments, whereupon the place was called Tophet, mentioned in Ier. 7.31. Hence wee came to the Poole of Siloam; in which we washed our selues, the water whereof falleth downe through a Rocke, from the Citie aboue, running strait to the valley of Iehosaphat, and there we saw also the remnants of that sacked Tower of Siloam. Neere to this we saw a Fountaine, where (say they) the Uirgin Mary vsed often to wash the Babes cloathes and linnen clowts. [Page] From thence we crossed the Brooke Cedron (which of old ran through the valley of Iehosaphat, but now is dry) and came to the Toombes of Absolom and Zacharias, and the Caue wherein S. Iames was wont to hide himselfe from the persecuting Iewes. Ascending more vpward on the hill, in the way of Bythania, we saw these places; where Iudas hanged himselfe, the withered fig-trée grew, and the house of Simon the Leper.

Arriuing at Bythania, we saw a Castle and Toombe of Lazarus, on whom Christ shewed a miracle, in raising him from the graue, after hee had béene foure daies dead: Not farre thence in the same Uillage, we saw the decaied house where Martha, and Mary Magdalen inhabited, and the stone whereon Christ sate (say they) when hee said to Martha, Mary hath chosen the better part. Returning thence, wée left Bethphage on our left hand, and about mid-day, arriued on the top of Mount Oliuet, Mount Oliuet. where we dined, and procéeded in our sights. From this place we had the full prosspect of Ierusalem: For the Citie standing vpon the edge of a hill, cannot bee seene all at one sight, saue on this Mountaine which is thrée times higher then Mount Sion. These are the Monuments shewen vs vpon the Mount of Oliues: First, the print of the left foote of our Sauiour, in an immoueable stone, which he made, when hee ascended to heauen; The Guardiano told vs further, that the right footes print was taken away by Turkes, and detained by them in the Temple of Salomon; But who can thinke our Sauiour trode so hard at his Ascension, as to haue left the impression of his feet behind him. Next the place where hee foretold the iudgement to come, and the signes, and the wonders, should bee séene in the heauens before that dreadfull day. Thirdly, the place where the Symbolum Apostolorum was made, which is a fine chamber vnder the ground, like a Church, hauing twelue pillars to support it. Fourthly, where Christ taught his Disciples the Pater noster, and where hee fell in an agony, when hee sweate bloud and water. Fiftly, where Peter, Iames, and Iohn [Page] slept, whiles our Sauiour prayed, and returned so oft to awake them, and also below that, where the other Disciples were left. Sixthly, the Garden of Gethsemane, where Christ vsed commonly to pray, in the which place he was apprehended by the officers of the high Priests, and was also where Iudas kissed him, and the Sergants fell backward on the ground. Seuenthly, they shewed vs a stone marked with the head, feete, asd elbowes of Iesus, in their throwing of him downe, when as they bound him, after he was taken, aad euer since (say they) haue these prints remained there. And lastly, at the foote of Mount Oliuet, in the valley of Iehosaphat, we descended by a paire of staires of 43 steps, and 6 paces large, in a faire Church builded vnder the ground, where (say they) the monument of the assumption of the virgin Mary is, whom they thinke was borne in Ierusalem, dwelt at Bethleem and Nazareth, and died vpon Mount Sion. I saw also there, the Sepulchres of Ioseph her husband, Ioachim her father, and of Anna her mother. The valley of Iehosaphat is two miles of length, lying South and North.

Lo, I haue plainely described, the whole Monuments I saw within, and about Ierusalem, by the order of these 12 seuerall daies: the like heretofore, was neuer by any Pilgrime, so liuely manifested. But as I said in the beginning of my description, so say I now also at the conclusion; some of these things are ridiculous, some of manifest vntruths, some also doubtfull, and others somewhat more credible, and of apparant truth. The recapitulation whereof, is onely by me vsed, as I was informed by Gaudentius Saybantus the Padre Guardiano, Laurenzo Antonio il Viccario, and the Trouchman Iohn Baptista.

After this wandring vp and downe Iudea, I stayed in Ierusalem thrée daies, both reposing my selfe, and also preparing my necessaries for a new voyage; being determined to go downe to Egypt, with a Carauan of Grand Cayro. In the last night of my staying at Ierusalem, which was at the holy Graue, I remembring that bounden duty, and louing [Page] zeale, which I owe vnto my natiue Prince, whom I in all humility (next and immediate to Christ Iesus) acknowledge, to be the supreme Head, and Gouernour, of the true Christian and Catholique Church; by the remembrance of this obligation I say, I caused one Elias Bethleete, a Christian inhabitour of Bethleem, to ingraue on the flesh of my right arme, The Neuer-conquered Crowne of Scotland, The Crownes of the two Kingdomes, and the great Armes of Ierusalem, are to bee seene ingrauen on his right arme. and the now Inconquerable Crowne of England, ioyned also to it; with this inscription, painefully carued in letters, within the circle of the Crowne, Viuat Iacobus Rex. For the which the old Frier was mightily discontented, and railed vpon me, that I should (as he said) haue endured so much paine for such an Arch-enemy of the Romane Church; but he not knowing how to mend himselfe, in the end I quenched and abated his calumnies, by a recitation of the incomparable vertues of our dread Soueraigne, who for his bounty, wisedome, learning and gouernment, was not equaled, nor paragonized amongst all the Princes of the earth: which he déepely conceiuing, was stricken in admiration, and began to intreat me (if I liued) to returne to my natiue Soile, that I would make it knowne vnto his Maiesty, the great tribulation and oppression they sustained vnder Infidels, to preserue the memory of these Monuments, especially of the holy Graue; for the maintaining whereof (said he) that great Monarch gaue neuer any allowance, nor supported the poore afflicted Christians at Ierusalem; which indeed, I promised to doe, and also performed his request: For after my first arriuall in England, most humbly did I report it to his Highnesse, in the priuy Garden of Greenewich; who indeed gaue me a most gracious and compassionable answere, saying: They neuer sought any help of him, and if they had, hee would haue supported their necessity.

Aprill 29. and the 16. day of my staying there, I, and other ten Frankes, made couenant with the Carauan of 900 persons, bound for Egypt, for ninetéene Piasters, the man to furnish vs wt Camels, or Dromidories to ride on, & to exoner [Page] vs of all Caffars and tributes, in our voyage to Cayro: By which condition we had the aduantage of two commodities: first, it freed vs from the wrongs and extortions of sauage Rascals by ye way: Next, we preuented all cosening and deceitfull dealing that might from the Captaine haue procéeded, whose fidelity in him, or such like, is seldom sufficiently to strangers approued.

In the beginning of this iourney greatly was I animated with the company of these Franke Pilgrimes, which I found in Ierusalem; but alas! no sooner was their society déere and acceptable to me, but as soone by death, was I robd of all the ten, such was the will of the Almighty: some whereof dyed in the Desarts,The death of ten Pilgrimes. and the rest in Grand Cayro, leauing mee, euen as I was before, a solitary wanderer amongst rauenous Wolues, the particular rehearsing of which, would but aggrauate my sorrow, and renew the remembrance of my by-past melancholy. Not that I stood in néed of any help, to stir vp the alacrity of my mind, which of it selfe was innated by nature, and fortified in maturity, by propagating diuers aspiring, and alacrious conceits; but my excessiue griefe was, because they daily pretended my good, whereby I was infinitely obliged to their kind, and vndeserued courtesies. For where such proffer of loue remaineth in the disponers, it bréedeth alwaies in the receiuers a kind of dutifull obligation; and as it was in some honourable fashion extended towards me, so the remembring of it, shall adde a greater grace, and reputation to strengthen the memory of their vntimely death. Neither will I relie so much vpon my owne worthinesse, as to thinke that benefite of the procrastination of my life, was by any merite of mine deserued; but that God so much the more might shew his incomprehensible greatnesse, by that deliuerance in my naturall imbecility. For all the beginnings of man are deriued from God, whose ends are either perfected or disanulled by his determination: and nothing we possesse is properly our owne, or gotten by our owne power, but giuen vs onely through his munificence. And [Page] all the spaces of earth, which our feete tread ouer, the light we enioy, and the excellent faculties we are indued withall; or what we can do, say, or thinke, is onely raised, guided, and distributed by Gods impenetrable counsell, will, and prouidence; which although the pride of our wicked nature, doth not yeeld the true attribution thereunto, yet the powerfull working of the counsell of God is such, that in it selfe, it proueth an eternall wisedome, and confoundeth the foolishnesse of the world.

Betwéene Gaza in Palestina, and Saleak on the frontiers of Gozan, I had no sight of any remarkeable obiect: for in all that six daies iourney, we trauelled still in the night, to shun the intollerable heat of the Sun by day; wherefore it with-held from our eyes, the visible shew of sandy and barren desarts, whiles our bodies felt the painefull fruite of that mountainous ground, in the silent night: yet not so silent, but we saw often a concurrance of naked Arabs, partly liuing in haire-cloth tents,Arabs. and partly in holes and Caues, who gaue vs diuers assaults, and sometimes intercepted our forward going, notwithstanding of that refuge we had of the Castles in that waste wildernesse, which are maintained by the Soldan of Egypt, for the succour of Trauellours.

At Saleak we encountred with a great company, and 1200 Camels and Dromidores, which were laden with the wares of Damascus, and going to Cayro. A Dromidore, and Camell, differ much in quality, but not in quantity, being of one height, bredth, and length; saue onely their heads, and feet, which are proportionated alike, and the difference of quality is such, that the Dromidorie hath a hard-reaching trot, and will ride aboue sixty miles in the day, if that his Rider can endure the paine. But the Camell is of the contrary disposition: for he hath a most slow and lazy pace, remouing the one foote from the other, as though he were weighing his feete in a ballance; neyther can he go faster, although he would: But he is a great deale more tractable then the other; for when [Page] his maister loadeth him, hee falleth downe on his knées to the ground, and then riseth againe with his burthen, which will be a maruellous great weight.

The red sea, which we left to the Westward of vs, is not red, as many suppose, but is the very colour of other seas: The reason for which it hath béene called Mare rubrum, is onely because of the bankes, rushes, sands, and bushes that grow by the shore side, which are naturally red. Some others haue called it so, in respect of the brookes which Moses turned to red bloud, who mis-construing the true sense, took seas for riuers.

Arriuing at Cayro, I lodged in the house of a French Consull, and on the second day, I went with two French Merchants, to view the thrée Pyramides, surnamed, The Worlds Wonders; which are distant from Grand Cayro, about foure leagues, standing néere to the bankes of Nylus. In proportion they are quadrangled, growing smaller and smaller towards the top, and builded with great and large stones, the most part whereof are fiue foot broad, and nine foot long. All the Historians that euer wrot of these wonders, haue not so amply recited their admirable greatnesse, as the experience of the beholder may testifie their excessiue hugenesse and height. The first we approched vnto, is biggest, whose height amounteth to (according to the computation of our Dragoman) 1092 foote. And at the bottome euery square of the foure faces is of bredth 450 foote. Hauing outwardly mounted by degrées, with great paine to the top, I was maruellously rauished to sée such a square plat-forme, all of one péece of stone, which couereth the head; each side wherof extendeth to 17 foot of my measure. It is yet a great maruell to me, by what engine they could bring it vp so safe to such a height. Truely, the more I beheld this strange worke, the more I was stricken in admiration: for before we ascended, the top of this Pyramide did séeme so sharpe as a pointed Diamond; but when we were mounted thereon, we found it so large, that in my opinion, it would haue contained a hundred men. The middle Pyramide [Page] did looke a farre off somewhat higher then the other two: but when we came to the roote thereof, we found it not so: for the stone-worke is a great deale lower, but the aduancement of the height is only because of a high ground wheron it standeth. It is of the same fashion of the first, but hath no degrées to ascend vpon: neither hath the third Pyramide any at all; being by antiquity of time, all worne and demolished, yet an admirable worke, to behold such great masses, and (as it were) erected mountaines all of fine marble. The reason why they were first founded, is by many ancient Authors so diuersly coniectured, that I will not meddle therewith.

Betwéene the biggest Pyramide and Nylus, I saw a Colosse, or head of an Idoll, of a wonderfull greatnesse; being all of one marble stone, erected on a round rocke: It is of height (not reckoning the Columns) aboue 815 foote, and of circuit 68. Pliny gaue it the name Sphingo, and reported much more of the bignesse, largenesse, and length of it. But howsoeuer he erred in his description, yet I resolue my selfe it is of so great a quantity, that the like thereof (being one intire péece) the world affoordeth not; and may be reckoned amongst the rarest wonders. Some say, that anciently it was an Oracle, the which so soone as the Sun arose, would giue an answere to the Aegyptians of any thing by them demanded.

In our way as we returned, our Dragoman shewed vs (on the banke of Nylus) where a Crocodile was killed by the ingenious policie of a Venetian Marchant, being licentiated by the Soldan. The match whereof for bignesse and length, was neuer seene in that riuer, whose body was 22 foote, and in compasse of the shoulders 8 foot. This cruell beast had deuoured aboue 46 men and women, besides other creatures: and in his belly were found more then 60 rings of gold and siluer, which the miserable bodies had worne in their noses, through their cheeks and vnder lips: for such is the custome of the people to weare their iewels. And if the baser sort cannot attaine to such like, then they [Page] counterfeit their betters with rings of brasse and lead, wearing also on their armes and ankles, broade bands of Iron continually.

The garden wherein the onely and true Balsamo groweth, is inclosed with a high wall, and daily guarded by Turkes, who hardly will suffer any Christian to enter within, much lesse the Iewes: for not long agoe they were the cause, that almost this Balme was brought to confusion. The tree it selfe is but of three foot height, which keepeth euermore the coloor greene, hauing a broad thrée poynted leafe, and twice in the yeare it being incised, yeeldeth a red water, which is the naturall Balsamo. Not farre hence, there is a place caled Mommeis, lying in a sandy desart, where are innumerable Caues cut forth of a rock, wherunto the corps of the most men in Cayro, are carried and interred, which dead bodies remaine alwayes vnputrified, neither yeeld they any stinking smell.

Grand Cayro is an admirable great Citie, and larger of bounds then Constantinople, but not so populous, neither so wel builded: It was of old caled Memphis, & was the furthest place that Vlysses in his trauels visited, so well memorized by Homer; yet a voyage now of no such estimation, as that Princely Poet accounted it: for his trauels are not comparable to some of these dayes wherein we liue: It is situate in a pleasant plaine, and in the heart of Aegypt, being distant from Nylus about an English mile. It was called Cayro Babylonia: for there are two Babylons, one in Assyria, which by the Turks is called Bagdat: and the other is this, which ioyneth with Cayro nouo. The circuit of new Cayre is about 22 miles, not speaking of Cayre de Babylon, Medin, Boulak, & the great Towne of Caraffar, being as Sub-vrbs, & of many smals maketh vp a little world, ye length whereof in all is thought to be 28 miles, & of bredth 14. The principal gates are these, Babeh Mamstek, which is toward the Wildernesse of the red sea: Bebzavillah, toward Nylus, and Babell Eutuch, toward the fields. The stréetes are narrow, being all of them almost couered, and the [Page] foundation of their buildings is raised vpon two Stages height, to kéepe the people from the parching heate. The Bazar, or exchange beginneth at the gate of Mamstek, and endeth at a place called Babesh. At the corners of chiefe places there are horses to be hired, that for a small matter, a man may ride where so he will, to view this spacious spred Citie, and change as many horses as he listeth, hauing the maisters which owe them, to conuoy them.

There is a great commerce here with all Nations vnder the heauens: For by their concurring thither, it is wonderfully peopled with infinite numbers. Such a multitude, and the extreme heate, is the cause why the pest is euermore in it; insomuch, that at some certaine times 10000 persons haue dyed thereof in one day.

In this Towne you shall euer finde all these sorts of Christians, Italians, French, Greekes, Almaines, Georgians, Aethiopians, Iacobines, Armenians, Syrians, Nestorians, Amaronites, Nicolaitans, Abessenes, Nubians, Slauonians, Gofties, Ragusans, and some captiue Hungarians, the number of which is euer thought to bee beyond an hundred thousand people; besides all other sorts of Infidels, as Turkes, blacke and white Moores, Musilmans, Persians, Tartars, Indians, Iewes, Arabians, Barbarres and Sarazens. From the Castle wherein the Soldan habitateth, (which is builded on a pretty hill) you haue the prospect of the whole Citie, the Gardens, and Uillages bordering on Nylus, and of the most part of the plaine, and fertile places of Egypt,

Aegypt bordereth with Aethiopia, and the Desarts of Libia, on the South: on the North, with the sea Medirerrene: the chiefest ports whereof, are Alexandria, and Damietta: Toward the Occident with the great lake of Bouchiarah, and a dangerous Wildernesse confining therewith; so full of wilde and venemous beasts, which maketh the West part vnaccessable: On the East, with a part of the red Sea, and desarts of Arabia, through which the people of Israel passed. In all the land of Egypt, which [Page] is a great kingdome, there is no Well or Fountaine, saue onely the riuer Nylus, neither doe the inhabitants know what raine is, because they neuer sée any.

This floud irriguateth all the low Plaines of the land once in the yeare; which inundation beginneth vsually in Iuly, and continueth to the end of August, which furnisheth with water all the Inhabiters.The nature of Nylus. There is a dry Pond called Machash, in the midst whereof standeth a Pillar of eightéene brasses height, being equall with the profundity of the ditch, whereby they know his increasing, and if in the yeare following they shall haue plenty or scarsity of things. For when the water beginneth to flow aboue the ordinary course, it falleth downe incontinently in this place, where it ariseth euery day vpon the pillar, sometimes a spanne, a foote, or two foote. At the time of his inunding, there are certaine people appointed to watch the limites of his growth; For when the water wareth to fiftéene brasses, it is a signe that the next yeare shall bee fertile: If if amounteth but to twelue, that yeare shall be indifferent; and it surpasse not nine brasses, it presageth a great dearth and famine; and if it shall happen to flow to the top, all the countrey of Egypt is in danger to bee destroyed.

From Nylus are many ditches drawne along to the scattered villages in the plaines, the water whereof entring in these narrow channels, the people haue cisternes made of purpose, wherein they receiue it, and conserue the same till the next inundation. At which time also they make great feastings, and rare solemnities, dauncing, eating, drinking, singing, t [...]uking of drummes, sounding of trumpets, and other oftentations of ioy. There are infinite venemous creatures bred in this riuer, as Crococodiles, Scorpions▪ vgly mis-shapen wormes, and other monstrous things, which annoy oft the inhabitants, and also those who tra [...]ck on the water. This famous floud beginneth vnder the Equinoctiall line in Aethiopia, whence it bringeth the full growth downe into Egypt, and in a place of the Aethiopian[Page] [...][Page] [...][Page]Alpes, called Catadupa; the fall and roaring of this Nyle, maketh the people deafe who dwell néere thereunto: The common opinion is, that Prester Iehan may impede the course of Nyle to runne through Egypt, which bréedeth the cause wherefore the great Turke payeth him a yearely Tribute, least by a malignant hatred hee should turne the maine Channell another way; and so bring Egypt to desolation. This Kingdome produceth no Wines, neither is garnished with Uine-yards; but that which strangers doe make vse of, are brought from Candy, Cyprus, and Greece.

In Cayro I stayed seuen dayes, and embarked at Boullacque in a Boate: and as I went downe the Riuer, I saw these Townes, Salomona, Pharsone, Foua, an Abdan: In these parts there is a stone called Aquiline, which hath the vertue to deliuer a Woman from her paine in Childebirth. In all this way, the greatest pleasure I had, was to behold the [...]re beautie of certaine Birds, called by the Turkes, Elloc [...]e; whose Feathers being beautified with the diuersitie of [...]rest colours, yéeld a farre off to the beholder, a delectable shew: hauing also this property, the néerer a man approcheth them, the more they loose the beautie of their Feathers, by reason of the feare they conceiue when they sée any man. Upon the fourth day I landed at Rosetta, and came ouer land with a company of Turkes to Alexandria.

Alexandria. Alexandria is the second Port in all Turkie: It was of old a most renowned Citie, and was built by Alexander the great, but now is greatly decayed, as may appeare by the huge ruines therein: It hath two Hauens, the one whereof is strongly fortified with two Castles, which defend both it selfe, and also Porto vechio: The fieldes about the Towne are sandy, which ingender an infectious aire, especially in the moneth of August, and is the reason why strangers fall into bloudy fluxes, and other heauy sicknesses. In my staying here, I was aduised by a Christian Consull, to keepe my stomacke hot, to abstaine from eating of fruit, and [Page] to liue soberly with a temperate diet. The rule of which gouernement I stroue diligently to obserue: so did I also in all my trauels, prosecute the like course of a small dyet, and was often too small against my will; by the meanes whereof (praised be God) I fell neuer sicke till my returne into France.

Twelue dayes abode I in Alexandria, and on the thirtéenth I embarked in a ship belonging to Ragusa, in which I was kindly vsed, and Christian like entertained. The windes somewhat at the beginning fauouring vs, wee weighed anchors, and set forward to Sea. In the time of our nauigation, there died seuentéene of our Mariners and Passengers, which bred no small griefe and feare to the rest; being cast ouer-boord in a boundlesse graue to féede the fishes. Fiue sundry times were we assailed by Cursaires, of Tunneis, Argeire, and Biserta; yet neuer captiuated, or seazed vpon: such was the pleasure of God, and the resolute minds of the Ragusans, which are a kinde of martiall people. Fifty daies were we crossed with contrary winds, tackling and boording; in all this time we saw no land. And as Ouid said in the like case, Nil nisi pontus, & aer. Our fresh water being spent, we were constrained to beare into the Ile of Malta, where hauing giuen ground to the ankers; I dis-barked and bade farewell to the Captaine and shippes company.

Malta was called Melita, mentioned Acts 28.1.2. where the Uiper leaped on Pauls hand; I saw also the Créeke wherein he was ship wracked. This Iland may properly be tearmed the Fort of Christendome, yet a barren place, and of no great boundes, for their Cornes and their Wines come d [...]ly [...] Barkes from Sycilia: But it yéeldeth good store of P [...]granates, Cittrons, Cottons, Orenges, Lemmons, [...]es, Mellons, and other excellent Fruits. The chiefe Citie is called Malta, from which the Iland hath the name, hauing a goodly hauen, and fortified with an impregnable ca [...]. The Maltazes had their beginning at Acre in Palest [...] from thence to ye Rhodes, & now exposed to [Page] this Rocky Ile. They are pertinacious Enemies to Infidels, continually making warre and incursions against them, to their power: being strengthned also with many souldiers, and their Captaines are surnamed Knights of Malta, and so through a great part of Christendome, it is a most honourable Order From thence I embarked in a Frigato, and arriued at Syracusa in Sycilia.

Sycilia hath bene famous in all former Ages, for by Diodorus Siculus it was cognominated, the paragon of Iles: by Titus Liuius, the Garden of Italy. The Greekes haue celebrated much commendation to this Ile. It also was anciently called, the Grange of the Romanes, and is neuer a whit decayed to this day: It excelleth in all sorts of graine, as cornes, wheat, wine, sugar, rice, all kinds of fruit, wholesome hearbs, sweete hony, excellent good silke, and the best Corrall in the world is found heere, growing vnder the water, greene, and tender, but when arising aboue, it becommeth red and hard: The like whereof is said to bee found in the red Sea, and gulfe of Persia. The chiefe Cities contained therein are these, Polermo, in which is the residence of the Uizeroy, a Spaniard: The second is Messina, wherein standeth the statue of Iohn Duke of Austria, for that notable victory God gaue him in the gulfe Lepanto, against the Turkes: The third is Syracusa, lying in the South-east part toward Malta: And the fourth is Trapundy, which yeeldeth surpassing fine salt, that is transported to Venice, Italy, Dalmatia, and Greece, made onely by heating of the Sunne, being drawne into certaine pooles. That sulphurean mount Gebello, called of old Aetna, burneth continually therein, yéelding a terrible smoake, and fire, which by the nature of the thundring noyse, and heate congealed in that Vulcans furnace, it throweth from the horrible vents, huge stones of naturall brimstone, insomuch that no people may resort neere thereby. I saw also there a fountaine, that a dog being cast therein, will presently die, but being taken forth dead, and slung into an other poole, shall forth-with reuiue. The Ile is of circuit [Page] six hundred, and large fifty miles: It was sometimes vnder the subiection of the Gaules, but now vnder subiection to King Phillip of Spaine: It is the onely Girnelle of Malta, and a great help to the Napolitan State: The length of the Iland lyeth West and East, and is distant from Napolis fifty leagues; so much also from Sardinia, and fortie leagues from Malta: The Sycilians are very industrious, much giuen to labour, and Mechanicke Arts. Sycilia, Candie, and Cyprus, are almost all of one quantity, being the most commodious and noble Iles, within the straights of the Mediterranean Sea.

From Polermo I embarked, and sailed close aboard the Coast of Calabria, and on the third day I arriued in Italy at a Towne neere vnto Ostia, called Ciuitta-vechio; where hauing thanked God for my safe returne to Christendome, I vndertooke a new Land-voyage. The speciall Cities I surueyed in Italy after my backe-comming, are these, Siena, Florence, Luka, Pisa, Genua, Bullogna, Parma, Pauia, P [...]acen [...]a, Mantua, Milane, and Torino: The commendation of which is inuolued in these verses:

Iullustrat Saenas patriae facundiae linguae,

Splendida solertes nutrit Florentia ciues,

Libera Luca tremit, ducibus vicina duobus.

Flent Pisae amissum dum contemplantur honorem,

Geuua habet portum, merces (que) domos (que) superbas,

Excellit studijs foecunda Bononia cunctis,

Commendant Parmam, lac, cas [...]us, at (que) butirum,

I [...]alicos versus prefert Papia Latinis,

Non caret hospitijs perpulchra Placentia caris,

Mantua guadet aquis, ortu decorata Maronis,

Est Mediolanum iucundum nobile magnum,

Taurinum exornant virtus, pietas (que) fides (que)

Hauing passed Torine, I kept my way through Piemont, or Pede montano, and came ouer the stéepe and snowy mountaine of Mount Cola di Tenda; after that I [Page] had two daies iourney, amongst the Rocky and intricating hils of Liguria, in which Hanibal had so much ado to conduct his Army to Italy. From thence I continued my voyage to Barselona in Spaine, where I gaue ouer my purpose in going to Madrile, and returned through a part of the Kingdome of Nauarre: Crossing the Pirenei Mountaines, I visited Langadocke, and Gascony; and kéeping my way to Burdeux, and the inuincible Rochell, I arriued at Paris, from whence I first began my voyage, and there also ended my painefull Pilgrimage.

Six yeares was I forth of Scotland, two yeares whereof I was cleere out of Christendome: The computation of the miles I trauelled from Paris till my returne thither againe, amounteth to thirteene thousand eight hundred fourscore and odde miles.

Semper sit DEO laus.

FINIS.

[Page]

Information about this book

Title statement

A most delectable and true discourse, of an admired and painefull peregrination from Scotland, to the most famous kingdomes in Europe, Asia and Affricke With the particular descriptions (more exactly set downe then hath beene heeretofore in English) of Italy Sycilia, Dalmatia, Ilyria, Epire, Peloponnesus, Macedonia, Thessalia, and the whole continent of Greece, Creta, Rhodes, the Iles Cyclades ... and the chiefest countries of Asia Minor. From thence, to Cyprus, Phænicia, Syria ... and the sacred citie Ierusalem, &c.

Lithgow, William, 1582-1645?

Edition statement

1616

Publication

Publisher

Text Creation Partnership,

Place of publication

Ann Arbor, MI ; Oxford (UK) :

Date

2005-03 (EEBO-TCP Phase 1).

ID [DLPS]

A05594

ID [STC]

STC 15711

ID [STC]

ESTC S108584

ID [EEBO-CITATION]

99844242

ID [PROQUEST]

99844242

ID [VID]

9033

Availability

This keyboarded and encoded edition of the work described above is co-owned by the institutions providing financial support to the Early English Books Online Text Creation Partnership. This Phase I text is available for reuse, according to the terms of Creative Commons 0 1.0 Universal. The text can be copied, modified, distributed and performed, even for commercial purposes, all without asking permission.

Series

Early English books online.

Notes

(EEBO-TCP ; phase 1, no. A05594)

Transcribed from: (Early English Books Online ; image set 9033)

Images scanned from microfilm: (Early English books, 1475-1640 ; 807:07)

Source

— A most delectable and true discourse, of an admired and painefull peregrination from Scotland, to the most famous kingdomes in Europe, Asia and Affricke With the particular descriptions (more exactly set downe then hath beene heeretofore in English) of Italy Sycilia, Dalmatia, Ilyria, Epire, Peloponnesus, Macedonia, Thessalia, and the whole continent of Greece, Creta, Rhodes, the Iles Cyclades ... and the chiefest countries of Asia Minor. From thence, to Cyprus, Phænicia, Syria ... and the sacred citie Ierusalem, &c., Lithgow, William, 1582-1645?. The second impression,.

Extent

[8], 126, [2] p.

Printed by Nicholas Okes, and are to be sold by Thomas Archer, at his shop in Popes head Palace,. London :: 1616.. (Running title reads: The trauels of William Lithgow in Europe, Asia, and Affricke.) (The last leaf is blank.) (Reproduction of the original in the British Library.)

Creation

Created by converting TCP files to TEI P5 using tcp2tei.xsl, TEI @ Oxford.

Editorial practices

EEBO-TCP is a partnership between the Universities of Michigan and Oxford and the publisher ProQuest to create accurately transcribed and encoded texts based on the image sets published by ProQuest via their Early English Books Online (EEBO) database (http://eebo.chadwyck.com). The general aim of EEBO-TCP is to encode one copy (usually the first edition) of every monographic English-language title published between 1473 and 1700 available in EEBO.

EEBO-TCP aimed to produce large quantities of textual data within the usual project restraints of time and funding, and therefore chose to create diplomatic transcriptions (as opposed to critical editions) with light-touch, mainly structural encoding based on the Text Encoding Initiative (http://www.tei-c.org).

The EEBO-TCP project was divided into two phases. The 25,363 texts created during Phase 1 of the project have been released into the public domain as of 1 January 2015. Anyone can now take and use these texts for their own purposes, but we respectfully request that due credit and attribution is given to their original source.

Users should be aware of the process of creating the TCP texts, and therefore of any assumptions that can be made about the data.

Text selection was based on the New Cambridge Bibliography of English Literature (NCBEL). If an author (or for an anonymous work, the title) appears in NCBEL, then their works are eligible for inclusion. Selection was intended to range over a wide variety of subject areas, to reflect the true nature of the print record of the period. In general, first editions of a works in English were prioritized, although there are a number of works in other languages, notably Latin and Welsh, included and sometimes a second or later edition of a work was chosen if there was a compelling reason to do so.

Image sets were sent to external keying companies for transcription and basic encoding. Quality assurance was then carried out by editorial teams in Oxford and Michigan. 5% (or 5 pages, whichever is the greater) of each text was proofread for accuracy and those which did not meet QA standards were returned to the keyers to be redone. After proofreading, the encoding was enhanced and/or corrected and characters marked as illegible were corrected where possible up to a limit of 100 instances per text. Any remaining illegibles were encoded as <gap>s. Understanding these processes should make clear that, while the overall quality of TCP data is very good, some errors will remain and some readable characters will be marked as illegible. Users should bear in mind that in all likelihood such instances will never have been looked at by a TCP editor.

The texts were encoded and linked to page images in accordance with level 4 of the TEI in Libraries guidelines.

Copies of the texts have been issued variously as SGML (TCP schema; ASCII text with mnemonic sdata character entities); displayable XML (TCP schema; characters represented either as UTF-8 Unicode or text strings within braces); or lossless XML (TEI P5, characters represented either as UTF-8 Unicode or TEI g elements).

Keying and markup guidelines are available at the Text Creation Partnership web site.