Wednesday March 27.  Left London in a thick fog.  Terrible crowd of people at   the station.  Among them I presently dis
tinguished Brian Lascelles with a small Harrow boy in tow, a Russian Boris de Chrustchoff.  They are going to Athens.
Met Lady Ottoline Morrell on the boat who introduced her husband.  Mabel        Lowther also on board probably heaps of
other people I know.  Near an hour late at Paris.  Drove over to the Gare du Lyon, got my sleeper and dined with Mr.
Lascelles and Boris.  Major Archer appeared on the scene.  Shared my sleeper    with a girl, Miss Charteris going to Egy
pt.                                     Thursday March 28.  Bright fine morning.  Saw and spoke to the Archers at the
station at Marseille.  They had been ordered back to Baluchistan and their      leave cut short.  Mr. Lascelles was join
ed by Mr. Medley a master at Harrow     school a nice boy with a pleasant face. Walked down to the Louvre did some
shopping and lunched.  Then by tram to La Joliette where I found my boat but    also that I ought to have my cabin numbe
red at the office.  So I went back by   tram, it was now raining, got my ticket numbered and returned to the Sughahir.
My luggage had not yet come on board so I spent the time in sleeping.           Presented my letter from M. Cambefort an
d was promised a cabin to myself which  I presently got.  Off at 4; fine again but coldish.  Sat on deck after dinner
with Mr. Lascelles.                                                             Friday March 29.  Delicious warm and sun
ny day.  We went round the north of     Corsica among many islands and about 1 passed close under Monte Christo.
Introduced myself to Theodore Reinach who was on board with M. Pontremoli, a    son of Reinach's.  We had a long talk.
They are going to Athens to choose in   the museum models of Greek furniture for a Greek house Pontremoli is building
for Reinach on the Riviera.  Pontremoli is a pleasant man, rather downtrodden   by Reinach I thought.  T.R. was not part
icularly affable; very learned rather   too authoritarian.  I asked Pontremoli about Brachadne; he said the first
temple had probably been very small and was entirely swallowed up by the        Hellenistic structure.  It was certainly
 Doric he said.  The later temple was   built over a very long period of time; the upper and latest parts probably 3rd
century A.D.  We talked of the singular capitals and of their extremely         oriental character.  Perfectly clear sun
set and deliciously warm night with a   full moon.  Sat on deck and talked to Mr. Lascelles and Mr. Medley.
Saturday March 30.  Got to Naples before dawn.  Rather misty day warm with the  sun breaking through.  Went on shore at
8.30, walked to Squadrilli's and then   sauntered back through the town returning about 10.45.  The boat left at 11.
Cold and grey with a good deal of wind.  Unpleasant.  The ship is bad and the   food abominable.  I am also bored to dea
th by my companions at meals, some      rather common English people.  All the people on board are beasts.  After
dinner it was warmer and I sat on deck and read Les Cosaques.  I finished       Putnam Neale's Indiscreet Letters from P
eking in the afternoon, a curious book. Sunday March 31.  Easter Sunday.  There was to have been an English service and
                                                                                a mass but the latter fell through owing
 to the cure's being seasick.  His      God deserted him and the others worshipped theirs in solitary triumph with many
hymns a good deal out of tune. We were crossing the Adriatic, grey and cold     with a good deal of north wind and a Bor
a I suppose.  The sun came out later    and the wind dropped.  Finished Les Cosaques and began Il Santo which is rather
dull reading.  Saw a good many swallows some of which rested on the ship.  I    suppose they are just crossing from the
south.
Monday April 1.  Off the coast of Greece.  The snow extraordinarily low on the  hills.  Got to the Piraeus at 12.30, jum
ped into a boat and went up to Athens   to the Omonia station and so walked on to the museum which I reached a little
before 2 at which hour it opened.  Looked long at the Mycaenean treasure and    then walked through the rest of the muse
um.  The bronze Hermes certainly was    rather poor now it is set up.  A lot of Roman sarcoph. which I had not time to
look at properly.  Then drove to the Acropolis.  Got out opposite the theatre   of Dionysus and walked up from there.  T
he restorations at the Parthenon are at last complete and I saw the west front of the temple for the first time and
noticed how lovely is the view of Salamis through the west door.  A bright sun  and cold wind, the snow low on Pentelicu
s and the colour of everything too      beautiful. Mr. Lascelles and his party came up before I left and we looked
together at the Erectheon which is swathed in scaffolding.  So down by the      Temple of the Winds and the Stoa of Hadr
ian.  Bought some cheese.  Helawi at    the Piraeus and got back to the boat at 5.30.  Lots of people came on board
amongst others a nice judge and his wife and daughter from Cheshire.            Tuesday April 2.  At 7 we were opposite
Chios.  Very cold but bright, the snow  very low.  We got into Smyrna at 11.  Mr. Whittall, a son of Mr. Richard W,
Fattuh and a kavass came on board for me.  Got through the custom house without trouble.  Went to the Hotel de la Ville
where I was greeted as an old friend.   Mr. van Lemmep came then to see me and returned after lunch.  We went out
together to the Anglo Oriental Stores and bought provisions for Konia.  Called  on Mr Barfield and on the Cumberbatches.
  Mr. B. is head of the Aidin railway   and promises me all assistance.  Much  talk of the brigand Chekeji who is busy
to the north of the line at Oldemish.  Mr. B. has a man to propose for my work, Rouveri, but  I don't think he will do.
 Mr. Cumberbatch was full of talk about the Kiamil Pasha incident, Kiamil was an excellent Vali and very pro English.
He had been Grand Visier more than once-I think 3 times.  It was he to whom     Ferid owed his rise and he always spoke
very highly of Ferid's powers and       ability.  He was the English candidate for the Vizirate and was thus a danger
to Ferid who was supposed to be and probably was, a friend to Russia and        perhaps in her pay.  Kiamil has a son, S
aid Pasha, who was born the same day as Burhan ed Din and has been treated as his foster brother and given every rank
which he received.  This young man is a rogue, weak and in bad hands; he was    used as a spy against his father by the
Palme Clique.  Then came the question   of the suppression of brigandage and Kiamil was accused of having received
bribes from the brigands to prevent their capture.  The bribes had indeed beeen received but by other hands, those of a
number of the palme clique.  But this   accusation was used as a pretext to disgrace Kiamil.  He knew what was
happening and begged leave to return and live in Beyrout.  No answer.  One      evening the head of the police received
a telegram in cypher telling to arrest  Kiamil. (Kiamil refused angrily to believe in the tales of Said's intrigues or
that he had taken money from the brigands.)  He was away in one of the islands  and the cypher was in Smyrna.  He came i
n next morning, read the telegram and   proceeded to the Konah.  Meantime Mr. Cumberbatch had gone early to the Konah.
The Vali knew that the blow was coming and asked if he might come to the        consulate.  Mr. C. replied that there no
         he should not visit him in the morning.  When he had left, Kiamil took a small bag, got into his carriage and
drove to the Consulate.  As he arrived there the h of p reached the Konah and   found that the bird had flown.  It was a
t first suspected that he had been
smuggled into an English ship, one had come in that morning and by chance had   anchored in the port just opposite the c
onsulate.  The telegrams from           Constantinople at once changed their tone when it was known that Kiamil was
with us; he was given all the titles,      of an eng    Vizier whereas the      previous telegram sending him to Rhodes
had been couched in the curtest terms.  Mr. Barclay conducted the affair with great energy, it was as well Sir N. was
away.  Mr. Cumberbatch refused to let Kiamil go until he was perfectly assured  of his safety.  Kiamil particularly wish
ed for a clause securing that his sons  (i.e.Said) should in no way suffer.  Barclay refused to do anything for Said.
Finally a clause of protection for Kiamil's "family" was secured.  Then he went to Constantinople where he now lives in
all honour.  I went back to dinner and  we played Bridge after, lots of people coming in, among them Elsie Whittall, Mr
Edward's daughter.  They played very well.  I left soon after 10.  Most queer   world this.  French or English they are
all without any nationality or any      mother tongue. Faik Pasha, of Konia, is here now.
Wednesday April 3.  Went out at 8 and up onto Mt. Pagus.  Most wonderful        morning, the view superb, with brilliant
 light red anemones growing inside the  ruined walls and the fruit trees in flower.  We came up between the two hills
where the stadium was.  I looked for the site of the theatre but in vain.       Elsie W. told me that man had come recen
tly to her father saying he had found   an underground passage in which was a sarcophagus and would Mr. Whittal give
him a charm wherewith to find gold, for when he worked at trying to get out the sarcophagus he made such a noise that al
l the neighbours heard.  Mr. Whittall   thinks of going up to have a look at the place.  Fattuh says that since the
railway came to Aleppos all the trade goes that way and Alexandretta is         deserted.  Mr Barnham has gone to Persia
.  The new man is a rough rude fellow   and drinks.  Walked down through the town, changed and wrote letters.  Mr. Van
L. and Mr. Bari, the fig merchant came to see me.  After lunch did some         shopping and went to Burnabut by train.
 Elsie W. met me at the station and we  called on Mr. Ernest Paterson, Mrs. Storer's aunt, a handsome oldish woman with
an older and uglier sister.  Then we went to the Herbert Whittals whom I was    very glad to see again and found them bo
th aged and looking very sad; their     daughter Helen died last September.  They were very friendly dear creatures.
Then we went to Mr. Richard W. where we found him and his wife and his daughter                 .  He was most kind and
gave me all sorts of help and good      advice.  I then spoke of the state of A M and of the disappearance of the Turk.
 In the last 10 years the military drain has been 800,000 men all of whom died  or came back crippled and useless.  The
Circassian settlers die out what with   fevers and idleness.  They will not work but are merely horse stealers and
cattle  lifters.  the native population hates them and shoots them down if      possible.  Once he was out shooting with
 a Turkish peasant and suddenly the men stopped and crouched down behind a bush saying "Wait! be quiet!" and prepared
to shoot.  Mr. W. said: "What are you going to shoot?"  "Hush hush!" said the   men.  Mr. W. looked through the trees an
d saw a Circassian       the man was    aiming at.  He was just in time to stop him.  The man was much surprised and
said "Why? isn't he carrion?" (elish?) (Mr. W couldn't find the English word).  When the Russians invaded Bulgaria and i
t passed from Turkish hands 300,000     Bulgarian Turks emigrated.  250,000 came to the coast lands of A. M., and
excellent sober hard working population.  theyu at once began to cultivate with great diligence and their Turkish neighb
ours gradually followed their example.
As a result an immense deal more land came into cultivation.  Mr. W. remembers  when all round Malcajik and to Ephesus i
t was nothing but scrub and swamp, now  it is all under cultivation.  With more cultivation the swamps disappeared and
the country became more healthy.  Formerly a Turk with 5 children used to count upon losing 4 from fever, ague; now he o
nly expects to lose 2.  Then Bulgarians are probably not Turks by race but the local population of the Balkans forced
to embrace Islam by the conquerors... Their villages are dirty and tumbledown.  The immigrants from Crete are idle and u
seless.  Mr. W doubts whether the C'ple quays will turn out good business.  Haidar Pasha is the port of Asiatic Turkey
and it is in German hands.  The Germans will develop it more and more.          Constantinople is the port of European T
urkey but if Macedonia goes it will     have little value for it will only desserve the town itself.  He expects that
Macedonia will go very soon and says the Turks expect it to.  They are leaving  the country in large numbers and coming
to A.M.  He thinks the Bulgarians are   the race of the future and that they will solve the Macedonian question.  He
says they must not be judged by the insurgent bands of Macedonia who are the    mere riff raff.  He knows Chekeji well a
nd says he is on the best terms with    his family but that now he is reduced in desperate straits; his wife died
recently in prison.  Mr. Edward W once got Chekeji pardoned and has had the     most curious correspondence with him.  O
nce he went out by appointment to meet  him in the Nif Dagh but Ch. was ill and could not come.  Elsie W. came with me
to the station.  We met Mr. Harry Paterson there and she introduced him.  I had a letter to him from Dr. Freshfield.  Th
e old Mrs. Whittal married at 15 and    had 20 children!  She is now 85.
Thursday April 4.  Grey but warm.  Spent the morning packing my things with     Fattuh.  Mr. Cum. came in the middle and
 told me a long tale about the          protectorate of Catholics.  It appears that here the big Greek school put
itself under our protection and all the many branch schools which have grown    out of it are under our protection and f
ly our flag on feast days.  The         Italians have always been trying to oust the French.  Since the breach with the
Pope the Dominicans have withdrawn themselves from French protection and put    themselves  under Italian, thanking the
French kindly for all they have done    for them.  The French still have a vast organisation and quantities of priests
are sent out.  The Austrians also make a point of being present at the great    ecclesiastical functions so as to establ
ish a right to be considered as         protectors of the Catholics.  Here these 3 consuls go to the great services of
the church officially in full uniform.  The new Catholic Archbishop of          Jerusalem is an Italian subject.  Conseq
uently the Italian consul slips out to  meet him on arrival at the station but the French consul meets him in state at
the gates of the town and the two conduct him to his house.  Here the Austrian  is absent!  Lunched at the Consulate and
 went with Mr. and Mrs. C. to call on   Faik Pasha.  He was very friendly.  We went to see his wife who fell on my
neck.  I made shift to say a few words in Turkish.  A very pretty daughter of   16 or so talking excellent French showed
 us photographs of Konia.  She was a    curious contrast to the mother.  When the wife of the secretary came in Mme
Pasha got up and gave her a deep salute, saluting her again after they had sat  down.  The girl paid no attention at all
.  As we went out I said to the girl    that the house was very nice.  "Oui" said she "seulement nous y sommes
enfermees."  I caused a diversion by spilling my coffee!  Fortunately I had on  a dark gown.  We then went to Basma Khan
eh and saw the General Manager,
Monsieur Scala about my luggage.  Then we called on the good Hattons. He has    left the service of the railway and find
s the time hang rather heavy on his     hands.  I asked for Mr. Cum. who the Tatars were.  He said they were immigrants
from the Dobruchka.  He said the bomb outrages in Constantinople were all due   to Armenians-a regular organization to a
ttract the attention of Europe.  They   fear them here and he has been warning the Vali not to decrease the number of
his spies.                                                                      Friday April 5.  Off at 8.15 with the Cu
mberbatches and drove to Nif.           Delicious across the plain of Burnabut with the plums and peaches just coming
into flower.  So we got into the Kavakli Dere through a cypress planted         cemetery and climbed the hill.  The vall
ey was full of flowering fruit trees    and the grass starred with anemones and starch hyacinths.  Got to the top of
the pass Bel Ca     at about 10 and rested the horses.  In spite of which they  presently broke down in a muddy bit of t
he road and subsequently we had great   difficulty in getting them past a couple of big rocks which the rains had
tumbled down into the road.  So down into the plains with the snowy tops of Mt. Sipylus (Maghnissa D) to the left, then
the opening into the Hermes valley,     then Mt. Tmolus (Boz Dagh) in front of us, the Nif D and Mahmud D to the right.
The road very bad.  It was being repaired and we had frequently to drive into   the surrounding country when we as frequ
ently stuck in the mud.  4 zaptiehs had met us in the plain before Kavakli Dere.  Got to Nif about 12.15 and drove into
the middle of the town.  It lies in a gorge of the mountain running up towards  the hills with the ruins of the castle c
limbing the first spur.  The tall       groups of poplar round and in it looked like shadows of trees, no sign of leaf
yet.  The famous cherries not in flower; only the plums out.  As we reached the village we passed to the left the ruins
of the palace of Andronicus set in      olive orchards.  Went to the Konak from the windows of which we saw the storks
sitting upon their nests, the prisoners looking out between the prison bars.    Then to the house where we were to lodge
, the house of a Greek on the e.        outskirts of the town.  Lunched and walked out.  Went up the side of the hill
to the w of the town to a place under a tree supposed to be a shrine of St.     John.  Several carved plaques (Byz.), a
fragment of Corinthian cap, well cut,   and a Turkish capital of the small oblong type.  A tiny cave above.  So to the
castle.  The walls with semicircular bastions surround the whole top of the     spur.  Built of stone and tile and morta
r.  At the top a good deal of the keep  is standing, the masonry uncut stones laid in layers rather far from one
another and the interstices filled up with layers of tiles and plaster.  A      lovely view up a narrow gorge to a snowy
 fir clad summit, Nif Dagh I suppose.   All up the gorge are rock hewn tombs, some seem to be in natural caves,
   said the Greek boy with us.  Cherry orchards nearly up to the top of the     hill.  Above them snowy fir woods.  The
village cattle, very thin small beasts, grazing in the castle enclosure.  What with the tinkling of their bells and the
sound of the stream I could have shut my eyes and thought it Switzerland.  So   down through the main gate defended by r
ound bastions and through the town to   the Greek school where there was a fragment of a saint, a book in one hand and
the other raised in                 into the wall and a couple of fragments of  frieze one Byz and the other Turkish. Pa
rt of the fountain which is a plain     sarcophagus with a bit of Byz frieze in the wall above it and a couple of
Byzantine birds drinking out of a vase, very rough work.  Then to the Castle    of Andronicus, oblong, 4 stones high.  T
he lower story good stone masonry of
large blocks, the upper alternate layers of stone and bands of tile, pierced    with windows.  The stories had each been
 vaulted inside with brick.  So home,   tea, sat outside and watched the village people coming home while a very old
and toothless lieutenant talked to Mr. C (a Roumelian he was), Bridge, dinner   and to bed with all the fleas and bugs i
n the world.  Violets everywhere under  the hedges.
Saturday April 6.  Off at 7 with 6 zaptiehs, a Bashi bazrak and a kavass,       Hassan.  Rode east then turned S up the
Karabel valley.  Very rough bridle path with fragments of the old paved      road very delicious, anemones everywhere
and the asphodel just coming into bud.  At 8.30 reached a spring and a few      hundred yards further up dismounted and
climbed up the hill to the left where   we found the Sesostris.  Much weather worn.  He holds his bow in his right hand
over his shoulder and his spear in his left.  Wears a talll pointed hat and     pointed upturned shoes.  Greek tourists
have scrawled their names over him.  He is set in a niche and looks up the valley.  The second figure was I think never
finished.  It is put on a block of stone near the stream on the left bank,      between the stream, the path, a hundred
yards or so above the          .  Only  the feet and thighs are visible and the pointed shoes.  A large bit had
recently been hacked off the left thigh so that it is nearly flat with the      rock. Opposite on the other bank of the
stream the rock is sheared away to make room for the path, doubtless this is a bit of the old road to Sardis.  Back at
11 and off at 12.  Much better travelling now that we know the road.  Very hot  with a scirocco blowing and the mountain
s all veiled in haze.  Lunched at       Kavakli Dere under the cypresses.  We got there about 2 and left at 3.  Home at
4.15.  Washed, shopped, packed and to bed.  Slept 11 hours.  Mr. C says the     Whittalls do most of the export trade bu
t there is now a considerable           competition with them.  No Germans however.  They buy in the Smyrna market,
have no property of their own.  The Germans confine themselves to the import    trade.
                                        Sunday April 7.  Grey, warm, some rain.  Went off at 12.15 to Burnabut.  Wlsie
W. met me at the station and took me to her house, the Edward Whittalls.        Lunched and spent the afternoon there.
Mr. E.W. said that Turkey was getting   poorer and poorer.  20 years ago the officials used to be paid, now they are
not.  Formerly the taxes used to be collected very mercifully; when a man       couldn't pay he was allowed to get many
years into arrears.  Now every penny of thexe arrears had been squeezed out of the people and they were paying taxes
for 2 years ahead.  The Palace takes 5 millions a year instead of the former 1  million ; this is to pay for spies and t
he palace guard.  40,000 pounds goes    from Smyrna vilayet every week for the palace.  The result is almost nothing is
left for the working of the vilayet.  He thinks the end must be near.  Possibly the govt. will provoke a movement agains
t the Christians in which case Europe   must intervene.  He said the action in Macedonia could never produce an effect
as long as the Turks were allowed to carry out the decisions of the Powers.  He thinks if Macedonia were granted autonom
y the difference between the native     Christians would soon settle themselves.  He hopes the next Sultan will not be
allowed to ascend the throne without the promise of some sort of a              constitution.  He hopes Kiamil Pasha may
 be the man to administer it if he is   not too old.  The Sultan's health is very shaky.  The eldest son is a drunken
madman; the next, Bruhan ed Din is the Sultan's choice.  Rashad is the present  Sultan's younger brother.  We went out i
n the rain to see the garden.  He grows
quantities of bulbs for England, propagating them     , either foreign or       native.  A beautiful pale double daffodi
l was in flower and three tulips,       saxatile (pale pink) gesnaria (a tall red one with black marks inside) and
elurium, I think, a red and white with a very pointed flower).  Had tea and     then went on to the Richard Whittalls wh
ere I found Mrs. van Heemstra.  Mr.     Cumberbatch was calling.  Stayed there to dinner.  Dick Whittall showed me
photographs of a lovely Greek statuette found at Cnidus-worked like 4th         century.  It is now at the British Museu
m.  He wants 600 pounds for it and they offer him 230.  He considers Cnidus one of the most promising sites.  He has a
collection of pottery, ancient and modern and various odds and ends.  Drove     home in the rain, an hour's drive.  Mr.
E.W. says a great change has come over  the attitude of the Turks with regard to the Sultan.  'Abdul Aziz stayed with
his grandfather and after the visit the Turks flocked to kiss the place where   he had stood and slept.  Now they openly
        himm to a European not to one   another because they fear spies.  During the recent occupation of Mytilene some
peasants asked him what was happening.  He said it was to get justice for       Macedonia. "Why don't they try to get ju
stice for us" they said " we are        suffering as much".  He thinks the only possible salvation is the education of
the women, if it is not too late.  It is beginning.  He now sees Turks driving  about with their wives which would have
been unheard of before.  Also some of   the women were unveiled.
Monday April 8.  Pouring.  Packed and sent off luggage.  Went to d'Andrea about the carpets and to the Museum where I ma
de the acquaintance of M. Weber, a      friend of Ramsay's.  He knew who I was.  They have a gragment like the Selefke
sarcophagus group.  Perhaps not a sarcophagus.  One figure in a niche,          architectural ornament much worn.  Next
(to) it apparently an oblong low        object.  A beautiful fragment, female, headless, a statuette and a lovely
headless statue more than life size.  Lots of stele, the b        sort mainly.  Some good heads.  So to the Cumberbatche
s and the station.  Talked to Mr.       Barford.  Mr. van Lennep arrived.  A        about my luggage and so off.
Rained till we got within half an hour of Divilikenis.  Rode up the familiar    muddy tract.  Found Mrs. van L., Evelani
, and Willie came in later.  Walked out and saw poor Nellie.  Delicious evening.  Everything most lovely.
Tuesday April 9.  Off at 7 with Evelani and Willie.  Travelled in my saloon to  Ayasoluk.  At the station met Weigand an
d settled to go to him at Miletus.      Then off to the excavations.  Lovely day.  The double church all uncovered.
Most interesting.  Apparently some sort of court at the east end.  Door through the second big apse.  Narthex and atrium
.  There are changes in Stryz.'s plan.  Then to the big gymnasium and so up the columned street to the theatre where we
lunched.  Then along the new road to the library.  Most wonderful.  A sort of   long gallery to the N of it with big ins
criptions.  Further on a little temple.  Decorations of the library most elaborate, not to say florid.  The street goes
on up the hill towards the Odeon.  Inscribed columns all the way and to the     right building of various sorts, some Ch
ristian.  Went with the two children to St. Luke's tomb and thenb went back to my ruins.  The place quite empty in the
sun.  Perfectly delicious.  Walked back by the mosque and St. John's church,    meeting only one shepherd.  Camped on th
e hill above the aqueduct.  Extremely   happy.
Wednesday April 10.  Up at 6.  Pretty fine-it had rained in the night.  Went    out to see the mosque.  the 4 great pill
ars in the interior very splendid.  One
of them has a magnificent capital.  Capitals and fragments of columns round the court.  Off at 9.30.  Fine views of Ephe
sus as the train climbed the hill.  A   Roman aqueduct in the valley before we reached the summit.  Got to Gonjeli at
10.30 about and to Morali about 11.30.  Took a charming Greek and went to the   ruins of Magnesia ad Maeandrum.  The lin
e runs through then.  Not very          interesting.  The temple quite destroyed.  Fragments of capitals (Ionic)-frieze
very coarse work.  The wall round the temenos standing up to a considerable     height.  The Agora is not visible on the
 surface but one can follow the deep    trenches of the German excavations along the walls and         on the pillars
which stood round the whole space.  A good deal of the theatre remains-seats    gone.  A fine stadion hollowed out of th
e hill with some of the original marble seats.  Came back to the temple of Artemis where I photographed.  Mud and water
everywhere.  So by the Byzantine agora where there was I believe a church,      home.  Had tea in my carriage with the G
reek.  The station master came in       saying affably "Goodbye" as he entered.  He then brought his wife recently
married.  "I take a girl 25 days" said he.  So we had      and water and they   left.  Off at 4.20 and reached Sokia abo
ut 5.  Up to the hotel.  Very clean and comfortable but the prices rather exhorbitant. Went out to see Mr. Ben Hodder
who showed me over his liquorice works.  The largest in Turkey.  They make      about 200 boxes each 2 and a half cwt pe
r week.  Most of the liquorice is sent  in bulk to America and manufactured there.  A very simple process of boiling
and evaporating.They store the root a year before they      it.  Wiegand's      kavass appeared in the evening and broug
ht me a       of the arrangements for   crossing the Maeander.
Thursday April 11.  Off at 7.15 after an agitating hunt for one of my stirrups  and some discussion over the bill.  Deli
cious ride of 2 and a half hours along  in n foot of hill to Priene  (Samson Kalessi) where I lodged in Weigands
house which also belongs to the Sokia hotelja, a charming place.  The hotelji   wanted to come himself but I took only h
is little boy and sent him back with 2  of the horses after lunch.  Went up to the ruins with a Greek.  Magnificent
plan.  The town climbs the hill in terrace after terrace and lies below one     spread out like a map with the broad flo
oded Maeander valley beyond and         opposite the low hill of Miletus rising to the north towards Besh Pemak.  The
theatre quite lovely.  The temple stands up on a high terrace.  Went up to the  Demeter temple and so on up to the Acrop
olis by a winding path cut in the face  of the rock, in many places a rock hewn stair.  Splendid view, the summit
crowned on 3 sides by walls.  We came down to the N outside the city wall.      Lunched and went up to the town again.
the approach through the great city wallmost impressive.  Photographed the ekklesiasterion and wandered up and down the
great paved streets.  A charming fountain under the theatre and seats on either side of the main street.  The fragments
of carving seemed better worked than    those at Magnesia.  An interesting church near the theatre with an ambone.
Altogether a most satisfactory side.  Back to the hotel where I had tea and     read and wrote on the balcony.
                                        Friday April 12.  Got off at 8 with Wiegand's kavass.  They said it was half an
hour to the kaik but it proved to be 1 and a half hours over marshy ground.  So we came to a spit of field where we sat
down and waited till 11 for the boat.   Grey and storymy with a strong wind in our teeth.  It was the smallest and
rockiest boat, however we piled in with the luggage.  An unfortunate Turkish    boy who wanted to cross with his dog had
 to remain behind.  We were part
grounded which prevented us from sinking at first.  We pushed and          off  and got out into deeper water.  It was s
eldom deep which was a s well as it was at times very rough.  We took 2 and a half hours to get across.  I was heartily
glad to arrive.  A sharp showere fell as we got there.  A letter from Weigand   and two of his men.  I ran up to the the
atre and lunched there under the        gallery.  The storm blew off and the sun came out, lovely afternoon.  The
theatre most beautiful.  The greater part of the excavations under water but I  saw the Buleuterion with the entrance to
 the Roman gate into the church         opposite-or was it the Roman gate? Then the mosque, Seljuk, very lovely, then
the baths.  Then into the little museum place where the Apollo and Muse statues were.  I did not see the 2 churches, per
haps they were under water.  The        Delphinion were all covered with water.  NB  the Seljuk entrelac quite
different from the Egyptian, much freer and less formal with things like big    fleurs de lis in it.  Soon after 4 got o
nto a horse and rode up to Ak Keui      where Wiegand's team is.  Most charming place on top of the hill.  The theatre
wonderfully         .  The great waters of the Maeander, the Priene hill with   the chain of mountains behind it and to
the N east Mt. Lat.                     Saturday April 13. Lovely morning, off at 7.30 and rode all round the coast
past the old harbour and up by the sacred way to Didyma (2 hours). The Maeander mouth-Samos and the line of islands oppo
site most beautiful-Leros and Kalymeos  and Patmos behind.  found Kaweran at Wiegand's house and as we went out we met
Knackfuss.  We 3 went to the temple.  They have not as yet done much but        remove the windmill and dig round the te
mple.  One sees the facade as           Hanroullier left it with the beautiful 3rd century bases, wonderful Hellenistic
work, the palmettes so well drawn-form a monument such as the later Roman work  lacked altogether.  Saw pieces of all th
e entablature, the architrave, a        cornice with            -egg and dart, the Medusa frieze and a colossal dentil.
There was no cyma-it was never finished.  Also some of the columns on the north side were never set up and many were nev
er grooved.  The cella was probably     completed and the chambers in front of it and the entrance.  One of the
Maeander bases is only marked out for cutting and was never cut.  The work of   the architrave very coarse and poor.  A
beautiful oblong capital from one of    the pilasters of the cella lies in the middle of the ruins, the two Corinthian
capitals of the inner cella door have been broken into fragments.  One sees the walls of the Byzantine fort across and o
ver the antae and before the temple lay a second Byzantine curved wall.  To the S and W the inner periblos steps.  An
interesting Byzantine capital lies below with 2 crosses one    and one   .      Back to the house and lunched and then w
alked with Kaweran to the place where   they have uncovered the Via Sacra.  Several fragments of the archaic chares
figures.  so round the temple again and back to write letters.  Difficulty      about horses.  They are only to be had a
 3 mej each!  Made the acquaintance of  Caternia who was with Hummel-has followed the excavators for many years.  The
two wer rather shy and stiff and as though they had long been unused to company which was indeed so.  Most kind however.
  Knackfuss showed me photographs and   plans of the Roman gate into the church at Miletus. (The oriental influences
seem to come in about the 1st century A.D.) It has an architrave broken by an   arch in the middle under a pediment afte
r the Syrian style and the whole Gebalh is carried round the arch-very unusual this.  Also a cap, Doric but adorned
with a colossal egg moulding.  This was used 200 years after in Rome.  The      buildings here are a couple of hundred y
ears older than Rome for the most
part-Rome must have learnt from here if anything.  In the great and rich cities the work is much finer.  In Ephesus the
Hellenistic and Roman period work is as fine as the Imperial work in Rome.  It was a question of means to employ better
artists.  We looked at the Austrian publications of the Byzantine columns in    the middle of the columned street set on
 ambou like niched bases and also of    the building above the theatre which is like the Tropaeum Trajaneum.  In the
picture of the capitals of the Byzantine columns I remarked the arrangement of  the acanthus leaves in two distinct rows
.  He showed me interesting pictures of the capitals from the Nymphaeum in Miletus where the beginning of this system
can be well traced.  The big church at Miletus has a circular passage round the apse, not vaulted probably roofed with w
ood.  No apses in it.  It was probably  pre-Justinian for Justinian's wall seems to be built so as to clear it.  The
circular church most interesting in plan, unlike any other.  So to bed about 9. Sunday April 14.  Breakfast at 6 and off
 at 6.30.  The     got up and           breakfasted with me.  Warm rather cloudy morning.  Rode 3 and 3 quarters hours
to the lake of Bafi across rolling ground all overgrown with scrub, no villages and next to no cultivation.  Dropped int
o a pretty valley full of red and       purple anemones and so reached the lake.  Rode on till 12 round the lake by a
rocky path through olive groves.  Mt. Latmos always opposite, very lovely; the  ground covered with grass and flowers.
Yuruk encampments beneath the olives.   I walked for about an hour and a half.  Pretty hot and stuffy.  At noon we
reached a spring where we lunched under the olives.  Off at 1, up and down over the rocky spurs.  Two big places for the
 making of the olive oil, red roofed.   A small island with a castle on it.  Steep climb over the last spur.  Then we
came down beyond the bottom of the lake, the points of Latmos a little behind   us and a ruined town on a knoll at the e
nd of the lake.  Saw the ruins of       Heracleia on the other side below Mt. Latmos.  We rode ththen through a lovely
fertile plain between hedges and trees all coming into leaf, past many wells to Bafi .  All the world Moslem here.  A ru
ined castle on a hill about half an     hour before Bafi.  Got there about 3.  Then up a very steep path leading across
a wooded hill.  The top was regularly through a forest.  I walked on ahead      through the peaceful wood meeting only a
 few Turks.  Lovely scent of bee        orchis, aromatic blue things and this which I did not know.  So down by a
rather steep path and from the top a charming view over lots of hills.  Got     onto our horses again and rode by deep p
aths mostly the courses of streams.     the bay in flower.  Missed our way several times and at last got to Mendelya
(T. Mendelet) at 6.  Found a room in the house of a baker, about the first      house of the village.  The mosque opposi
te, storks over all the roofs.  The     people below were making a bonfire which flickered into my room and a muezzin
watching from the minaret.  Very warm.  Fattuh says the taxes have been         considerably raised this year.  He now h
as to pay 43 mej. in all.               Monday April 15.  Grey and very stuffy, later a strong wind some thunder and a
little rain after we arrived at Kuluk.  Went out and saw the mosque which is    apparently built out of large old stones
 and is very charming.  A Turkish boy   then took me to see a fine Turkish house all fallen into ruin though it is
still inhavited .  I did not see the gate mentioned by Murray.  Off at 6.45     and in an hour reached Ayakli where ther
e is a very charming Corinthian temple  lying in a gorge of the hills.  It is oriented to the NE.  A jamb of the NE
door is standing decorated along the 2 fillets with very fine bead and reels    and outside with an egg and dart and a L
esbian cyma, all good work.  So are the
capitals.  The columns fluted but those on the S side have not been finished    nor has the S corner one.  The others on
 the SW front are fluted-6 standing-and each bears a tablet with an inscription.  The walls of the temenos are visible
enclosing a considerable area.  In front of the temple to the SW at the bottom  of the field are two tombs, built and co
vered with a stone slab.  They have     been broken open.  A little further on is a building consisting of 2 parallel
vazults, I don't know what they are.  From there we rode on to Mylasa which we  reached at about 10.15.  The Katurji wit
h us had been a soldier and had been to Damascus and Bosra and Yemen.  A  very charming Seljuk mosque built of marble
(remains of the temple).  I could not get inside however.  We went to the Khan.  I left Fattuh to arrange about horses a
nd with a Greek walked up to the tomb   on the hillside.  Very charming with its fluted columns and piers crowned by
Corinthian capitals.  The casitten in the roof can be well seen.  Near it, in a house, a large sarcophagus.  My guide wa
s full of Chekerji whom he had seen     last year.  He met him at a little church on the hills about Mylas and told him
he was a poor man so Chekerji let him go.  He siezed two rich Greeks and        carried them off.  My Greek said he was
a charming man, small but very clever.  Then to a gateway, Corinthian, also very good work, so to a khan where I found
the horses ready. It was bazaar day and the town was full.  Off at 11.15 and    rode till a little after 12 when we reac
hed a khan or rather a cahur in a       valley where we lunched.  The old man had been there 40 years.  A fine ruined
castle on the hills before we came into this valley, to the left.  Off at 12.45 and got to Kuluk about 3.30.  It is 16 a
nd a quarter miles, 26 kilometres.  A   road all the  way, fairly good.  Lovely view of the bay and Kuluk from the top
of the last hill.  Went to the Whittalls' house where I found one Gabriel Geha  by origin an Italian from Aleppo, had li
ved long in Egypt and talked Arabic.    Mr. Ballard away, I have his room,  G.G. full of the wrongs he has suffered
from his uncle a priest in Aleppo who siezed all their property and when he     died left it to the children of another
brother whose wife had been his         mistress.  Fattuh yesterday described how in Baghdad they used to cut off the
hand of all thieves;  he thought this an excellent plan as it would effectually prevent them from stealing!
                                        Tuesday April 16.  Rain and wind prevented my going to Budrum but it cleared
about 9 and I packed my things into a kaik and went off to Iassus hoping from   there to be able to go on.  We got acros
s in half an hour-very romantic landing below the rock in the old port guarded by a Byzantine tower.  There was no one
to forbid our invasion.  The whole peninsula covered with grass and flowers and great fennel plants in full yellow flowe
r.  Scrub prevents one from making out  much of the ruins.  The acropolis walls crown the rock, as Tenier says they do
shine whitish from far away.  The flat ground on the further side covered with  indistinguishable ruin.  The acropolis s
eems to be Byzantine but I saw an       earlier wall going down towards the sea of fine masonry.  The theatre has been
removed entirely-to Stambul said Mustapha, the Whittalls'        who was with   me.  The island is now joined to the lan
d and on this low ground are masses of  buildings-to the right on the hillside the necropolis-like a small city-with a
few Yuruk huts scattered through it.  Went on up to the great outer wall which  is built of big blocks in this fashion
                      not always        regular to door in the             and a door mostly in the round bastion and
small windows there very narrow outside.  The doors in the bastions face the    same way as the doors in the           .
  The bastions face towards the sea.
Walked up to the corner where the wall turns at a right angle.  In the top wall there are shortly after the corner 3 sma
ll window slits and a great gate of     this plan                    .  All very curious and mysterious.  At the far
side of the isthmus a tall ruin which Mustafa said was a gate-I did not go      there which I regret.  Back to the kaik
where I lunched but it was too windy to go on to Budrum so I returned sadly to Kuluk sat on the balcony in the sun and
read  Mr. Ballard's novels of which there were plenty.                          Wednesday April 17. Off at 4 am, the sta
rs just beginning to fall.  The         Scorpion was climbing up the SE of the sky.  A wonderful morning very still at
first, then some wind came and we were able to sail a good deal round the       barren islands.  On one we saw a little
deer running over the rocks, it was     tarandos which M. called salih Adasi.  We had to tack for an hour before we
reached Durranda-very tedious it was, Fattuh thought nothing of sea methods.    We arrived about 10.  There was no town
but a kahweh by the sea and through the rich land scattered houses.  Figs and other fruit trees, beans, corn, anemones,
orchises.  the high bluff of Kara D stands up boldly from the sea.  One and a   half hours sharp walking to Budrum over
very rough paths.  After an hour        reached a kahweh with some carved stones near, bulls' heads and
garlands-?altars.  Soon after we caught sight of Budrum lying in its curve with the castle of St. Peter standing out in
the middle.  We passed over the town    wall and so down to the port.  After some search I discovered the site of the
Mausoleum with the temple platform above and the theatre behind.  Magnificent   view from here.  So down into the bazaar
 where I eat to the surprise and        delight of the town.  I was famished by this time.  Then to the castle.  We had
to get permission from the Zabit as it is used as a prison.  this done we were  let in through a gate, down a causeway i
nto a space round the inner wall;       another gate(all have splendid arms above them with the shield of the Knights
of St. John everwhere) and into an outer enceinte with a bas relief of St.      George      into the wall at the end.  S
o onto the outer sea bastion at the end of which we reached the English tower, with a great lion carved on it.  Up to
the top of this were we could look into the castle itself with all the          prisoners in it and the 2 great square t
owers standing over all.  Back along    the sea front and up onto the inner wall at the opposite corner.  A court lay
beneath with the chapel (now a mosque) in it and all the prisoners walking      about.  Very splendid indeed.  So back,
a very hot walk to the kaik which we    reached at 3.15.  Off about 3.45.  The spur of our         sail broke at once,
had to be patched up tant bien que mal.  Went            the islands.  Tarendos has a little strip of cultivation on the
 east and a few figs.  Passed quite     close to the harbour of           but had not time to go in and see the ruins.
Wind very fitful.  We saw the walls of Iassus very plainly.  Got to Kuluk at    5.30, had tea and by 6 we were off in an
 araba to Melas.  Lovely night with a   young moon to light us.  Exciting moments getting over the mud.  At 9 about
reached the Whittall depot quarter of a km from the town.  Kept by one Demitri.  Here we eat and slept.  The mice woke m
e by running over my pillow so I pulled my bed out onto the balcony and slept there.
Thursday April 18.  Endless bothers about getting horses.  Demitri went down    early and returned with 2 at 3 mejs each
.  So then we went down to the khair    where Fattuh buttonholed Aristo the khanji and soon succeeded in getting
horses.  But they had to be brought in from the chair and that lasted till      10.30.  Sat in the kahweh and talked to
two old parties, one from the Gharb,
one from Egypt.  Off at last and up the most beautiful road in the world over   the Ak Sivri but a wind like the very de
vil.  A lovely road winding between the hills, great fir trees, fruit trees in flower, carpets of the blue anemome the
many            and forget me nots.  And streams all the way.  Presently we met Mr. Ballard coming from Nebi K.  We stop
ped to talk to him.  got to Eski Hissar about 4 and walked through the miserable little Moslem town with a cheerful
party.  Fine big stones, carved and uncarved built into all the mud houses.     Saw an arched gateway of the town wall a
nd the big marble cella of the temple   with Moslem patterns carved on it,             .  So back to the horses and
waited for an hour in the howling wind by the well, a Roman relief in the wall  opposite us.  At last the baggage horse
came and we set off at 5 by deep roads  and through a great fine wood.  All very lovely.  An hours and a half brought
us to Ileira.  Fattuh found a friend here, Jamil Bey a binbashi who had come    from Smyrna with 27 men to capture briga
nds.  He was a Circassian from Aleppo.  He lodged us in the best house in the village, that of Tahir Agha-he had
quartered himself and his men there also pocketing the 2 ps per day food        allowance of each of his men and making
the Agha feed them.  The Agha           nevertheless was most cheerfully hospitable.  Jamil paid me a visit and was
most pleasant.  He told me he had trained his men so that they would rather die than turn before a foe.  His father and
his grandfather had been soldiers, all  his people.  He intended to go off brigand hunting that night, but in the
middle of the night Fattuh woke me and asked me for the Agha's gun and          cartridges.  It seemed that a brigand ha
d been caught and brought in, an old    Turk armed with a martini and a revolver.  His name was on Jamil's books as a
notorious person.                                                               Friday April 19.  Went with Jamil and Ta
hir to see the ruins of the temple of   Hecate.  Humdry did some work here but it is all overgrown with brush wood.
Got onto our horses at 8 and rode to the top of G     Bel a very wild and       beautiful path.  Jamil had procured our
horses for us and he sent with us two   ragged and very cheerful muleteers and an equally cheerful and ragged boy.  A
little kahweh at the top of the pass where we drank coffee.  Then down through  wonderful pine woods, carpeted with forg
et me not.  Fattuh told me that Tahir   had offered Jamil 3 Turkish pounds if would let the brigand go and no doubt he
would, martini and revolver and all, for as Fattuh said he got no pay probably  and he must live.  At 12 we stopped for
three quarters of an hour and lunched   by a mountain stream.  Immediately after we left the woods and rode down a
shallow winding valley, quite uncultivated, all rocky.  Two small villages at   the bottom of the wood, no other people.
  Near the end of this valley we saw    the remains of an aqueduct that had carried water to Arabhissar-Alabanda.
About 3.30 we came out into the China valley, very wide and covered with crops  and grass, and rode along the foot of th
e hills to Arabhissar which we reached  at 5.  A miserable little hamlet mostly clustered round the great theatre, the
supporting walls of which are very fine.  We lodged at Jamil's          in the  house of one Hajji Salih Effendi, a char
ming old Turk.  I had a little house to myself-barring fleas-at the bottom of his compound.  He fed us and our horses
and men and would take no money for it.  Fattuh succeeded in giving him a mej   for his children.  Storks on all the rui
ned walls.                              Saturday April 20. Went with the chowwish who had been here with Hamdy to see
the latter's excavations.  An interesting temple site of a curious shape and a  niche in the inner wall towards the sout
h.  Saw a stone carved with heart
shaped leaves like the decorations of the theatre at Priene.  Ionic.  What      looked lie Stoa near it.  Here there wer
e 4 stones carved with figures said my  zaptieh but I could not see them because they were turned over on their faces.
Then down to the oblong building through a Corinthian gate-Murray says all here was Ionic.  Hamdy did some work here too
.  From it (in front) a wall goes along with round engaged columns breaking it looking towards the oblong wall.  Lots
of columns sticking out of the ground further on and a water conduit below      ground-one sees it in one place.  So off
 about 7.30 and across grassy paths to  the China which was very deep.  We crossed in a buffalo waggon leading the
horses.  Got to Gyroba at 9.15 and waited till about 10.15 for horses.  No      carriage to be h ad and if there were it
 could only have taken us to the        Maeander.  Off in a thunderstorm.  25 miles to Aidin and a very good road along
the China till we got to the Maeander valley.  Very wide and beautiful with     Aidin lying on the great hills beyond.
All the near part under water.  Passed  a dead gypsy lying on the road with a little girl wailing beside him.  Fattuh
said "It is hard to die out of one's house."  At the ferry they refused to      bring the body in saying it had to wait
till his people saw it, or to do        anything for the girl.  She had to wait there to keep the dogs off and a boy
had gone in to her village an hour beyond Aidin.  We could do nothing; when she was afraid said Fattuh she would come in
.  The bridge broken, we crossed the    Maeander in a ferry boat.  The road was swamped and we had to ride by an old
paved path through deep mud and rushing water.  When a camel train passed we    had to get off the path and plunge into
the mud.  At last we got onto dry land, wonderfully fertile, deep crops and fruit trees.  And so at 5 to Aidin, saw the
station master, arranged about my carriage and got myself lodged in a dirty     khan opposite.  Here I got the news of E
lsa's engagement.                       Sunday April 21.  Went out at 7 with a kavass from the station up onto the
platform of Trallas.  Took used-up films so I could not photograph.  The whole  plateau of the town covered with grass a
nd olives.  2 churches, Hamdy had done  a little work here too.  One must have been a round church; all that one could
see are 4 sorts of bays towards the east:         something like that.  The     other was apsed thus:        .  The site
 of the theatre can be made out.  From  the acropolis above it a splendid view up the valley and down onto Aidin.  So
down by the Roman thermae and      by a mosque set in a cloister.  The mosque   is only 150 years old and is adorned ins
ide with roccocco sort of stucco work.  A charming fountain in the cloister.  So down and met the station master,
Economulej who took me to see the head dervish at the Tekke, Shiekh Aziz        Effendi.  From him we got the key of the
 stucco mosque.  Visited another near   the station; not old.  the konak is finely placed above the gorge.  Most
excellent sweetmeats in Aidin; it was market day.  Off at 11.30 to Kuyujuk.     All the valley         and flowering.  F
attuh is of opinion that there are no   honest govts in the world but the English and the Persian.  I questioned the
latter.  "Because there are no thieves in Persia-are there brigands? no.  They  cut off the right hand of every man who
steals.  So he steals no more."  Spent  the afternoon in my carriage writing and reading Economedis's reports on the
railway.  Talked to the station master who said the trade from Yalovatch and K     still comes by Diner because the frei
ght on the Anatolian and Kassaba are so high.He hopes England has now wakened up to her diminishing position in Turkey.
Monday April 22.  Up at 4 and off at 5.15.  Beautiful morning.  We took exactly 7 hours to get to Geire (Aprodisias) wit
h two short halts of 20 minutes and 14
minutes at Kahwehs on the way.  Most beautiful valley, very fertile.  The first village we passed, a chiflik was buried
in fruit trees, poplars coming into     shadowy greyish leaf, pomegranates putting on their russet dress.  Further on
there was little cultivation but still a great deal of beauty in the rolling    country running up to the hills and the
rushing river by our side.  Masses of   camels, mostly carrying millstones.  We rode straight towards Baba to which
              .  I can't say I was sorry to arrive as I was both tired and      hungry.  Rode through the N gate.  All t
he walls and gates have been rebuilt    and old materials used in them, for instance a stone with a Nibu on it is built
into the        wall of the gate.  We lunched in the temple of Aphrodite.  It   was turned into a church by pulling down
 the cella and enclosing the peripteral columns with narrow aisles.  An apse built out.  Apparently chambers on either
side of it which is unexpected.  Pieces of what looks like an ambon and slabs   of an altar rail.  A narthex with an
  to the north.  Outside the east end   fragments of what looks like a sort of Corinthian gate.  So to the Heroon where
there are fragments of what must have been a charming frieze of figures and     animals and rinceaux.  Then up the mound
 in the middle of the town (it was the  theatre) passing some low marshy ground where in the marsh and among the
flowering apple trees and leafy poplars was a charming row of Ionic columns.    Then down to a great building partly exc
avated-gymnasium?  It stood apparently  at the end of the row of columns-a columned street?-with a temple door and
steps leading up to it, then a court and then a great gateway, the jambs all    carved with a rococco pattern of rinceau
x with animals and putti-very charming.  Lots of fragments of entablature-all very elaborate, not very vital work.  I
thought of the          on the Didyma bases.  Some curious Corinthian capitals  which I photographed, interesting in the
 development of the double rowed        Corinthian capital.  There seems to have been an entablature         of large
dentils, each one of which was finished by a huge fawn's head or a bull's.      Then back to the N wall, round by the st
adion (very perfect) and round the      walls.  They were all built straight with occasional sits back, no bastions.
Very thick, rubble with a stone facing,           high.  So through the village and to the S gate which is also built of
 old materials.  NB the niches in these gates, or rather side gates.  Round by a Corinthian building just under the
villate to the S half excavated, and so back to tea.  Then took a man who       showed me some sarcophaguses excavated i
n a field outside the S gate.  Very     rough work, the heads and putti better carved but the garlands done entirely
with the drill.  So back to the gym. and home.  Tired.  The village is sitting  outside my window(!) cooking eggs in a w
ood fire in...earthenware bowls,        smoking, talking.  Trains of camels arrive from time to time and deposit
various loads.  On the raised platform outside the door one or two pious ones   have said the evening prayer.  Baba Dagh
 ... survey over all.  Now the cattle   are coming in.  NB the apse has side chamber, apparently no connection with the
apse which is formed so       on account of the great width between the         columns.  Behind this is a Corinthian ap
sed structure.                          Tuesday April 23.  Grey and soon began to rain heavily.  We were off at 6.30 in
streaming rain.  It left off after an hour but began again about the chiflik    and rained hard till we got in at 12.30.
  In the Maeander mud we saw a camel    with only his hump and neck sticking out and a poor old woman standing
helplessly by him.  We could do nothing.  Changed and lunched in my carriage    and off at 2 or thereabouts to Gonjeli w
hich we reached at 4.20.  A few moments
after Mr. Barfield and his daughters, Spencer Wilkinson and others arrived.  We went off to the ruins of Laodicea, a sta
dium, very perfect, gymnasia or baths,  2 theatres very large.  Above onbe of them big stones with holes drilled in
them apparently for the awnings over the theatre.  Very grey and cold.  So back and all dined together, very pleasant.
Mr. Barfield hopes one day to carry his line beyond Egerdir.  Most of the trade from Yaloralk and Karagatli goes to the
Australian which has agents there to         the stuff through by waggon loads  at very cheap rates to Constantinople.
He hopes to recover some of it by       the new extension.  Heard of Lord Cromer's resignation.
Wednesday April 24.  Off before 6 to Hierapolis with 2 zaptiehs after some fuss with the roguish innkeeper about horses.
  Finally got the ones we had hired for half mej each instead of his at 1 and a quarter mej.  About 1 and a half hours
to the ruins.  The calcareous falls of the stream over the rock very curious.   A Yuruk village below, the baths imposin
g in size; no fine detail.  The theatre frieze spirited work not unpleasing.  Walked all through to the necropolis but
failed to see the sculptured tomb.  All the architecture of the same style and  date, see Humann.  The plateau on which
it was built very charming, grass       grown, hills wrapped in mist behind.  A misty drizzle most of the morning.  So
back at 12 and at 1 on to Bodjeli where I spent the afternoon reading Ramsay's  papers and writing.
                                        Thursday April 25.  Very ill in the night, pains, sick and faint.  The good
Fattuh gave me tea and a hot bottle after which I was better.  But quite unable to go to Colossae which I gave up with m
uch regret.  It's situation under the   mountain as I saw if afterwards from the train must be magnificent.  A post
recalled me and I read and answered letters.  Off at 1.15(about) and reached    Dineir at 7.  The trains very variable i
n their times of starting, mostly       before time.  Scenery magnificent.  The great Khoras D behind Colossae quite
splendid.  We climbed up the Chardak pass and came out onto the plateau, the    familiar beautiful plateau stretching aw
ay all bare and open with the mountains rising out of it as if half submerged in it.  Lots of snow.  A good deal of
cultivation along the line.  So past Aji Tuz Golu with the steep mountains      dropping into its further side, past Apa
 whence there is a fine view of great   Ak D.  A curious tombstone from Colossae there.  An excellent little inn at
Dineir kept by a charming old Greek fairy godmother Marigo Cubic.  I found an   official of the railway there, I think h
is name is Albone, a line inspector.    He talked English badly though he was English.  Dined on bread and milk, the
Mudir called and so to bed.  Very cold, bright moon.                            Friday April 26.  Cold and stormy.  Went
 out early and saw the site of the      acropolis of Apamea with the remains of an early church on it.  The marble
double columns, one of which remained, of the central A.M. type.  Also a large  plainish sort of Doric capital.  Walked
up the valley to the source of the      Marsyas, very fine, gushing out of a rock, and back the other side to look for
the site of the theatre which I did not find.  After lunch, bought a horse for  9 Turkish pounds; Fattuh very pleased.
Then took the station's kavass an       Albanian and went to the source of the Maeander in the Menderes Duden.  Saw
also the source of the Injesli Su which springs out of the mt.  I suppose this  is Ramsay's Laugher and Wufu but I confe
ss I could not distinguish them.  There seemed to be many springs all together.  Walked then over the hills to the
source of the Arab Chai by which is a small group of houses, Sheikh Atab K.  In the graveyard were a bit of a double col
umn and a bit of a round column with
garlands carved on it.  Some hermit caves above the source of the river but I   did not see the inscription Murray menti
ons.  Two inscribed stones in the       cemetary under the acropolis, one of them in the cemetary wall.  I imagine
Ramsay has copied these.  Tired out and so home.  Fine bare hills rise behind   the village, at present topped with a li
ttle snow.  The marshy source of the    Maeander lies in an amphitheatre of these bare hills.
Saturday April 27.  Fortunately a most delicious day sunny, cold at first and   later quite hot for a few hours.  We got
 off at 7, I on my new gray pony which  proves a most desirable animal.  Sent the muleteers direct to Buldur and rode
with Fattuh and my suari Mustafa round by Kulirborlu, a beautiful road over a   low pass.  The tops of the great hills,
Uluburlu D and Egerdir D wonderfully    white with snow.  Got to Keui borlu in 3 hours.  There are a few old stones
built into the walls and fountains and lots of columns said to be inscriptions  in the cemetery but I did not bother wit
h them as Sterrett has been here.  So   down the level plain to Gulbashi where there are worked stones in the cemetary
and across the head of the Lake of Buldur and down between the hills on the E   side.  We got to a spring near Cherchen
about 1 and stopped to lunch.  Lovely   gardens with peach, cherry and plum in flower.  A few storks and many swallows.
 At the next village, Eski Yer, saw an inscription on a fluted broken column in front of the mosque  and copied it.  Not
hing else here except a stone built     into a fountain with a shield and crossed spears behind it and a sort of
armorial       round the corner thus         .  All the scenery round the lake  charming, to the south high snows.  At K
yshla broken fluted columns in the      mezerlik.  Got to Buldur about 3.  Charmingly situated; bare mud hills above,
the orchards stretching below to the lake.  Found a place to camp and then went to the khan where I drank coffee.  Took
the khanji with me to show me the town.  Saw 3 large churches, all I think on ancient sites but all rebuilt.  In the
largest where there was a school, I noticed little bits of old work round       about.  Tombstones outside 100 or 200 ye
ars old.  It was a basilica with        protruding apse and an open narthex.  Saw too a curious spring, now dry, with
steps leading down to it-it was under a house-and worked Christian stone built  into the wall above it.  So back at 5 to
 find Fattuh pitching the tents.        Lovely night with a full moon.  We are camped just outside the town between it
and the immense cemetaries on the site of an old mosque I am told.  The         military have just been trying to persua
de me not to go to Aghlasun and Isbarta tomorrow because I should have to start early and it is so cold.  The soldiers
here seem to fear everything cold, mountains, rivers!  Fattuh says the people   of Aleppo are more turbulent than any ot
her city.  Every night there are two or 3 murders and the prisons are always full.  Occasionally they open the doors
and let them out and many escape by burrowing under the walls.  the Christian   population though it is but half the Mos
lem does not fear they other at all.  A child of 12 killed a man the other day with a knife.  The new Vali tried to
stop arak drinking but with so little success that he gave it up.               Sunday April 28.  Up at 5 and off at 6 b
y my watch but I think I am fast, it    was really about 5.30.  I sent Fattuh with the camp to Isbarta and took a
sawari, by name Ahmed, with me into the bare hills.  We rode for 9 miles along  the Adalea road  most lovely with the sn
owy mountain tops standing round.  Then we turned to the left up a narrow path and passed a lovely chiflik, Chinar,
belonging to a       native of Buldur-he has two others.  Lots of cattle just   being driven out.  Then we passed Tashka
fu and after that we went up a high
pass and dropped down very steeply into a lovely little plain set round with    mountains, onto the village, Bash K.  Ha
lf an hour more brought us to Aghlasun  at 10.15 by my watch.  The village is most beautifully situated and full of
worked stones from Sagalassos.  I noticed in the fountains a sarcophagus with   winged angels holding up wreaths, anothe
r with two portrait heads, round arches like niche arches.  Columns and a bit of a roofstone worked inside with .......
and figures in each.  We took another soldier and rode up an hour to            Sagalassos.  After passing a few broken
sarcophagi we came out ....... onto the theatre, the cavea half full of snow.  Most wonderful and lovely.  Lunched
there and walked down through ruins by the sacred way to the ruins of the       temple. (Corinthian)  A necropolis on th
e .... of mountain between the temple   and the acropolis.  Purple crocus, blue scilla, the spurge not out, aromatic.
All the sarcophagus worked apparently but much weatherworn and broken.  So up   through an Ionic building to a building
in ..... at the theatre level above     what I take to have been the agora-a platform with ruins round.  At this
building there was a bit of a fine vine scroll frieze and a figure in relief.   Above on the rocks funeral niches.  Furt
her on at the very edge of the plateau  the church.  The cornice very fine, heads outside and dancing figures inside
beneath a rillen frieze.  Fluted columns, no caps visible.  Also an elaborate   acanthus moulding.  All the mouldings ve
ry classical-egg and dart, bead and     reel etc.  An old man in the village had told us the road was blocked with
snow, but the soldiers said it was passable.  Left Sagalassos at 2.15, top of   the pass at 2.45, some snow drifts, much
 water.  The north side all snow,       plunged down it for half an hour, very difficult going.  The acropolis hill
well seen from above, in the pass.  Then down into the valley for 2 hours by    the stream which we crossed and recrosse
d.  Very rough going.  Noticed in 2     places solid foundations of big stones-bridges?  At last a few willows and
poplars, then the spurge began to flower and the cherries came into bloom and   so to Isbarta at 5.15, the great Egerdir
 D snow covered in front of us.  Found  my camp pitched in a vineyard opposite to it and dismissed the local
authorities with short shrift.  Exquisite camp.  The full moon rose behind the  cut through a ..... of bare poplars.  Wr
ote and dined out of doors.  Owls.  My  suwari Ahmed says the Tabhtujis are witpout religion, without mosque or church
or book and say no prayers.  They are found in all these hills.  They live in   tents.  A few stunted pines on the hills
 today, otherwise bare.  I rode         Fattuh's grey horse today.  He went excellently though he be mal'un.
Monday April 29.  Up at 5.  Before 6 came the commandant to call!  I was not    very chatty.  Spent 3 hours with the obl
iging shoemaker who slept near our      tents last night hunting for inscriptions.  Did not find much except a small
Mithra stone which I photographed and a curious broken marble plaque which I    also photographed.  There is an old chur
ch, S. Nicholas, which I saw.  The      kernel of it is old, a quite simple domed cruciform with a semi domed apse and
deep arches over the side arms, barrel vaults almost.  Beyond this much has     been added.  Set off at 9 with a zaptieh
, the camp having gone on, but I picked them up after 2 and a half hours.  It is just over 20 miles to Egerdir.  A very
dull road round the foot of the hills for the first 21 kils. then one goes into low hills and crosses by a very low pass
 at the top of which one sees the Lake  the island and part of the town.  Very lovely with the Aghlasun D dropping
straight down into the lake and the town clinging to its side.  There would     really be no room for a town but that th
e land runs out here into a long spit
of which the 2 islands are the continuation.  We found no place to camp till    about half a mile outside the town which
 gave us a most delicious mansab far    from pashas and little boys.  It was blazing hot.  I walked back to the town,
saw the charming Medresseh gate (which I could not photograph because it was in such shadow).  Inside a cloistered court
 with old capitals-one of them with 4   angels, the heads broken off.  Opposite is the mosque, not interesting and to
the right the gate into the p........ with a minaret over it.  A little further on through the gate is the castle, much
ruined, only the towers of the gate and the walls on either side remaining.  Walked to the end of the spit.  Then took
a boat and rowed across to the islands.  The first very small, only fruit trees on it.  The second covered with houses.
 Saw 2 churches, S. Theodoros, a large  3 ....... church with an apse built out and a sort of narthex ...... with a
.... from the church wall, a lean to in fact.  The nave barrel vaulted, the     aisles flat.  Near it is a square new bu
ilding which contains the old church of S. Stephanos.  It is merely a square with a dome and an apse built out.  To
north and south high up but at different elevations is a small arched double    window with a double engaged column (usu
al type) .... the windows.  The lintel  over the W door is rudely worked with a vine rinceaux.  All the church is
frescoes.  It is a place of pilgrimage.  People come once a year from miles     around.  Outside the S wall of the churc
h but inside the new outer wall there   is a deep spring of v... good.  It is said to cure all sickness.  So I rowed
back to my camp and found F. in a f....... because the infinitely bad kasturjis have definitely given out.  We must get
horses somehow.  Lovely view over the   lake.  F. has gone to the town about horses leaving the soldier Khalil with
strict instructions not to touch the boxes in his tent because they are full of "jam mam."  My zaptieh for the night has
 just been telling me of his 10 years   in Yemen, how he was 2 wounded and did not die praise be to God.  "1000 men
went out from Egerdir and 300 returned."  He has only been 2 years              married-since his return-and has one gir
l.  He was made a chowwish for killing  an Arab who crept up to surprise the camp.  Khalil is his name.  The men are
not paid out there but he got all his pay when he came home.  His brother died  out there leaving a wife and small child
ren helpless at home.  They never got a farthing of his pay-those who die are not paid.
Tuesday April 30.  Off at 6 with all the camp.  I rode on with a new zaptieh,   Mahmud.  Crossed the bridge where the go
.. fishings are carried on and up into  the hills E of the lake by a new road as yet unfinished.  The baggage horses
fell hopelessly behind owing to one have tumbled into the lake.  I speedily     left the road and went down nearly to th
e lake by very rough hilly paths to see Surkunjak but found no inscriptions there.  Then up, crossed the new road and
went to Kalinkhrsi which is a ruined site of some size.  No village here.  I    found two churches.  So onto the road ag
ain, which speedily came to an end and  about 12 caught up the baggage horses and Fattuh just outside Sary Idris.  I
stopped under some trees by a stream to lunch and we then rode on to the        village and bought eggs.  The Katurjis h
ad already been there for corn as it    was clear we should not reach Yaka that night.  So down the valley where we
presently came upon the road again with some 40 men working at it, or rather    cooking and eating, at the other end the
re had been about 5 men and a few boys  at work.  They make no allowance for the mountain streams which run across the
road and which in consequence wash away parts of the work as soon as it is      finished.  So we came down onto the plai
n by the edge of the lake and camped
under the first Seljuk Khan.  There is a mill near it, a delicious spot.  The   baggage horses had been some 8 to 9 hour
s on the way-nearer 9.  I have the      Aghasun D opposite my tent and have just bathed in the lake.
Wednesday May 1.  Off at 6 and rode round the foot of the hill to near          Gelendos.  Here I found the fountain SW
of Yaka of which Ramsay spoke and spent near 2 hours over the Latin inscription.  Not very satisfactory as half the
stone is covered by the upright stone of the fountain.  However I got           something.  Caught up the baggage and Fa
ttuh near Afshar about 11.30 and rode   on quickly to Chalty where I lunched at 12.30.  We stayed till 2 when the
baggage came in sight and then rode on to Tokmajik where we found a camping     ground by the fountain below the village
.  The fountains in the village are     full of old stones, some worked, one a double column, but no inscriptions.  The
presence of the stones is accounted for by the fact that there is a large tract below the town on which there have been
buildings.  I saw one stone worked into the wall of the mosque.  On top of a little tell near by are also traces of
building.  They talk of a kala on top of the hill opposite the village.  There  is no road round the edge of the lake un
der Ak D. hence this long detour.  One  can get round on foot but not riding.
Thursday May 2.  A very long hot day.  Started at 5.45 and got in at 6.45 pm.   I took with me one Nazmi a man of Tokmaj
ik who had been a soldier and served in Crete (of which place he thought highly) and a few months in the Yemen.  He
wore an ancient ragged uniform and was very intelligent, knew all the roads and at once understood what kind of things I
 wanted to see.  Mahmud the zaptieh was absolutely useless, ignorant by day and sleepy by night.  Last night they all
left the camp, fearing robbers;  Mahmud slept and Fattuh watched alone.  We     went straight up the hill, not by Akdish
er which K calls Aktslu Asar).  The     baggage animals did not follow that route either.  About 20 minutes above the
village we turned aside to the right and in a few minutes came to a rock cut    tomb in the hills.  Undecorated but very
 carefully cut; the inside of the roof  being a gable with a straight ridge running along it.  The doorway square.  We
then crossed the brow of the hill and came down onto a Yuruk village Tultar     (unmarked by K).  In one fountain there
was a slab carved with 2 bulls' heads   and a garland between (a bit of a sarcoph?) on the lower one was a much worn
stele on which one could just make out 2 figures and a pediment above in low    relief.  About 50 minutes further on to
the SW was another small Yuruk village  in the making.  Still half hut-wooden shed.  Also called Tultar.  In the
fountain here were 2 double columns.  No inscription.  These villages have only been settled about 15 years.  The inhabi
tants came up from Quaziri (now         deserted and falling into ruin) when the marsh fevers of the lake drove them
out.  Drank excellent .... .... at a Yuruk house.  So down the hill, dropped    directly onto the ruins of Quaziri.  No
inscriptions.  We then turned along the lake, very lovely with little grassy bays covered with Yuruks and flocks
running up into the hills.  In 40 minutes reached the pilgrimage place where    the rocks drop down steeply into the lak
e.  There is a small cave high up in    the rock and about 100 yards below it a very curious great arch of rock through
which one sees the lake.  (On the rocks sat the largest eagle I have ever seen.  The time of pilgrimage is the beginning
 of Sep.  They stay 2 days and          celebrate mass in the cave.)  If this is natural, as I think it is, it would
account for the veneration in which the spot has ever been held.  The rocks     covered with blue ..... growing in great
 luxuriance.  Rather a scramble up into
the cave.  I climbed up onto the top of the rock but saw nothing more.  The     snow peaks of Borlu D on the opposite si
de of the lake, very fine.  It was now  11.45 and I lunched.  Very hot.  We then rode back to Gaziri and round the
flooded end of the lake.  By the edge of the marsh was a reed hut belonging to  some fishermen.  Here we found a boat an
d rowed through reeds and rotting flood water and then through a bit of open water to the island.  It is completely
surrounded by walls (Byz?) 6 or 8 feet thick built of small stones and mortar.  Wooden tree trunks were built into the w
alls lengthways and across.  These have now rotted away leaving round holes like cannon holes.  The walls are quite
straight with no bastions.  I noticed in rowing round a bit of column built     into one place.  There is one old stone
but it is unfortunately about 18 inches under water.  A large stele with the figure of a woman holding in her right
hand an object like a water skin      so. At her left side what looks like a    large square water pail.  Above her on h
er right side is something suspended    which looks like another water skin       .  (One of my boatmen (they were
Turks from a village on the w of the lake) had served through the Russo Turkish war and talked of all the Balkan places
and people.)  There is something inside it rather like a head sticking out.  There is a low cut pediment above and 2
lines of inscription which I could not read because of the shine and the        shimmer of the water though I tried all
I knew and stood in the water up to my  knees and then boated round.  Finally we returned to the hut got onto our
horses and rode off to Gojelli.  In a cemetary I saw a large fragment of a wide oval column like throne on which the Tek
moreian inscrips are carved but without inscriptions.  Here the road turns up the hills to Tokmajih.  Gojelli is a
small village of 2 farms, Greek and Islam.  The Greek came out to welcome me    and gave me milk.  His wife, a very pret
ty woman spoke some French but by this  time I was getting quite fluent in Turkish!  By the house was a heap of stones
with one or two very worn small stele in it, the usual 2 figures apparently.  A servant brought news of an inscribed roc
k above the village but when we rode up there we found it had all been destroyed recently.  This is I should think the
place ......... (according to K) calls Yazili Kaya.  I was told there were the  ..... of a village above but did not go.
  My Greek sends his corn to Smyrna via Egerdir and Dineir.  He is delighted that the rly is coming to Egerdir but
wishes there were to be steamers on the lake.  With a favourable wind the boats can go down to Egerdir in 3 or 4 hours.
 So I rode on to Kundauly and got there at 6.45 pretty tired.  Tents pitched above the village.
Friday May 3.  Saw Ramsay's great inscribed stones and explored the village for inscriptions.  Found one new one of whic
h I took a rubbing.  Went into many     houses but found no more.  Off about 8.30-rode along the Yalorach road for
about an hour, then turned up to the right into the hills, past a small Yuruk   double village called Chelabtish(not ...
..?) small ..... and so down the hill   to Ayaplar.  The Greek inscription in the mosque fountain beat me.  Rode on to
Kufekher and lunched shortly before arriving there at 11.45.  Nothing at        Kupekler but some big stones with simple
 mouldings.  Above Ayaflar on top of a  rocky hill are said to be fortification walls.  They call the place Kissarlik.
Do down a very long dull wide valley of cornfields, parted with Nezmi and       turned north over the mud hills to Yalor
ach.  Got to the first outlying         settlement of it at 2.10 and to my tents on the hill above the town at 2.45.
Slept and wrote.  Hot stuffy day.                                               Saturday May 4.  Went out about 7.30 ont
o the old site and took some notes and
photographs for Ramsay.  A very fine site.  A rectangular plateau rising        towards the east where it drops into the
 deep narrow gorge of the Anthios.  The rock cut semicircle supposed to be the site of the temple of the Men Ascasneos
is near the top of the slope.  Below it what looks like the trace of a road and then the apse of a church clearly visibl
e.  A cross street runs from NE to SW;  at the N end are the ruins of a building which looks like a gate.  At the S end
the cavea of a theatre.  A few great vaults on the low W escarpment and the     ruins of the aqueduct-nothing more to be
 seen.  Of the walls scarcely a trace;  all the big stones have been carried away to Yalorach and the people were
digging out and carrying away still more.  The river gorge opens out above the  town into a small plain set between the
hills with the village of Kassaba at    the further side; very fertile the plain and charming with its willow, poplars
and fruit trees all coming into leaf.  The gorge runs NNW and SSE.  Great       plagues of little boys.  Very hot too.
I stayed in my tent till after lunch    and then went into the town where I was terribly plagued by the people who
followed me in crowds.  A bit of a carved sarcophagus in the fountain of the    khan and near by a shed with wooden pole
s supporting the roof and all resting   on bits of old carved stones.  An old mosque near by and a big ........  The
town is separated into 12 Mahalles each one divided from the other by gardens.  I then called on the Kaimakam and found
all the notabilities drinking coffee    and smoking.  Later they called on me, 6 of them.  Bought a horse for 10
Turkish pounds, 3 mejs.  He looks good and is, I think, pretty cheap.  There is a straight bridle path over the hills to
 Aksheher in 4 hours and a carriage     road that takes about 14.  They all wish the Egerdir extension were to be
continued to this place.                                                        Saturday May 5.  A most tiresome day.  W
e were off at 6.15, I on my new horse   which gave me plenty to do.  Rode along pretty dull country a broad valley, up
and down a good deal and finally down to Karazach which we reached at 10.45.  A miserable little place with a charming v
illage green and a big khan.  I went    out to see 2 mosques; nothing of interest except some rather nice woodwork on
the mihrabs and on the pulpit against the wall.  Then came back to the khan and lunched and waited.  About 1 a tremendou
s thunderstorm, hail and rain in        torrents.  It continued to rain on and off till 7.  Presently came news that
the arabu with the luggage had broken down and they had had to go back to       Yalorach for another.  Consequently it d
id not arrive till 5!  We walked        through the town in an interval without rain.  Nothing of its Seljuk splendour,
not a house.  But lots of old stones.  Inscriptions in the mezerlik.  Not       well-indigestion.  Slept till 7.30 when
I dined on rice and slept again.  There was an unfortunate Armenian [some script in arabic] an exile from C'ple where he
had been an employe in a shop belonging to Ferik Pasha in Stambul.  He can get  nothing to do here and is half starving.
  Has been here a year and a half.      Asked me anxiously if the Sultan was going to die and if I would speak of him
to our consul.  I gave him a Turkish pound on the strength of our having a      common faith.
                                        Monday May 6.  Again difficulties with the arabu.  We started off at 6;
Yesterday's rain had made the plain horribly muddy.  F. andf I rode with the    zaptieh Khalil till we got into the low
pass where there are lots of traces of  the paved R(oman) road.  Here F. stopped to wait for the arabu.  I rode on with
Khalil.  At a place called Felle at the opening of the E end of the pass        (surely for the N, nearer the N side of
the valley than K. puts it) was a mound
from which men were engaged in digging large stones.  They had uncovered the    foundations of a wall built of large dre
ssed stones with another wall at right  angles-probably a R(oman) guard house at the entrance of the pass.  Made a
little detour to ride over the ground on which Misthia stood.  Nothing remains  but lots of columns and round and double
 in the large graveyard near the spring (here there is a round tumulus) and a .... which may have been a sort of
acropolis.  (Full view of Bey Sheher a white Bey Shehere D.)  It lies at the S. end of the site of the town.  The whole
site deep in grass; pasturing cattle    and flowereing cherries.  So on to Kirili Kassabu which we reached at 10.15.
Waited 2 hours in the khan and then came news that the arabu had stuck in the   mud and Fattuh had gone back to fetch an
other!  So lunched on eggs and bread    and yaourt and waited till 1.30 when I rode back to look for the luggage.  At
the top of the cemetary (which is probably the largest in the world, much       larger that the town) saw F. coming with
 2 arabus.  So they arrived at last at  1.45.  They had had to get the first arabu out of the mud with 2 buffaloes.  F.
had ridden back to Karagach, gone to the Kaimakam and from him got the second   arabu.  Finally both are to come with us
.  There was no zaptieh at Kirili so    about 2 I took on khalil and rode on to Aflatun Punar.  Passed through
Chukurkend, Yenije and Munafer.  Keeping more or less parallel to the lake.     Bey Sheher is not so fine as the others.
  The mountains do not fall so steeply  into it and the NE side is flat, still it's not bad-Munafer (where we were to
sleep) lookied so ruined that I thought it at first deserted till I was set     upon by dogs.  A lying old woman told us
 the direct road to A.P. was deep in    mud and sent us round some way to the S.  This also was deep in mud.  Clouds of
...... butterflies.  Very hot and still.  A black thunder storm coming up over  the end of the lake and clinging to the
mountains N of it.  As we reached the   mill on the river that c..... from AP it began to rain.  So in thunder and
lightening we reached the Hittite monument at 4.30.  The water breaks out of    the hill in copious springs and forms a
pool at the upper end of which is the   Hittite building.  Immense stones, the crowning monolith carved with a winged
dish, 2 winged disks on the two stones below it.  4 columns sticking out a      little with seated figures on them-the s
econd from the left wears a pointed     hat.  4 smaller figures with uplifted arms above them and 3 on the intervening
slabs.  Rain in torrents.  I waded into the pool and photographed as best I     could.  Very striking as you look down f
rom the hill above the monument;  the   full stream flowing out of the pool, but a good deal of mud.  The village is
completely surrounded by swamps.  Found F and the others having arrived half an hour before, drenched with the storm.  M
y things were set out in the most       charming ..... and the horses are lodged below me.  Frogs and storks.  In the
smallest village one is always the best lodged.  Terrible hungry.  In Ramsay    for the monument and its place on the gr
eat trade road.  Saw a R. milestone?    outside Chukurkend-round bell topped, uninscribed.
Tuesday May 7.  Off at 6.  Fattuh drove one of the carts through the village    top disappearing at a hard gallop in a c
loud of water and mud.  We went a long  way round to avoid the swamps, nearly to Aflatun Punar, then by Sadik Hajji,
Emen, Sevenjik, the spring marked Warna, and so up the valley to Yonuzlar.  We  went very fast and got there about 12.
The village is in a niche in the hill   out of which a spring comes-opposite divided from it by the river is a mass of
indistinguishable ruin now corn fields and fruit trees.  Lunched by a           blossoming apple and went into the villa
ge.  Old stones by the bridge and the
whole village built up of fine cut stones.  The spring flows into a rough       sarcophagus.  Nearby is a Greek inscript
ion.  I could not make out where were   the ruins of the church.  Off at 1.15.  Up a curious valley of basalt rocks,
about 1 and three-quarter hours.  Just as we got out onto the plain of Kyzyl    Euren I saw a milestone and a fragment o
f the R. road.  It wound round the      plain, the whold ......  perfectly clear as I have not seen it save in Moab.
Past a ruined Khan and Mosque and reached K. Euren at 4.  Camped on the further side of the village close to a small woo
d of pines on the slopes of the K.      Euren D.  Not a horse in the village, so decided to send my heavy luggage by
cart to Konia and hired a donkey  and a man, Muhammad Agha, to go to Kilisra.   Wednesday May 8.  Grey and clouds blowin
g up over K. Euren D.  One donkey not   enough, so F. rode off into the village and reappeared driving another.  So we
set off at 7 and at first rode round the mountain above the R. Road that Ramsay told me to find.  Then I saw the old Kon
ia road beneath in the valley and went  down to it but could see no definite trace of the R. road.  So to Eiret round
about which is a large tract of rujm.  Many old stones in the houses, and some  bits of carving, worked with a rude cros
s mostly.  A couple of mouldings in the mosque wall and 2 double columns in the little court.  Also an inscribed
sarcophagus.  Very cold and rained hard.  We rode S up a valley where there     were many traces of paved road and so up
 onto basalt, the blocks cut away for   the road and much paving but I do not think it was Roman.  Just above Bulumia a
pinacle of rock with some square cut caves in it and a ruined wall on top, but  I could not get up.  Across a deep valle
y at Bulumia in streaming rain and up   the other sides onto a mountain plateau.  The rain stopped and the sun came out
a little.  Round under the foot of Kajali D and down into the valley at the     bottom of which is Tulasa, a small villa
ge.  Up the opposite side again and     down a little across a plain and so up onto the hill where Kilisra stands.  The
basalt breaks out again here and all round the village there are broken walls   of it ...... ........ with rockcut house
s.  The village itself is built in and  among them.  We arrived about 2.  Rode through it to find an ... and were shown
2 perfectly disgusting ones near the mosque above stinking stables.  I          definitely refused to lodge there-was ta
ken back to the first house in the      village where there is a charming oda on the roof of Shakir Agha's house.  Here
I waited for a little and eat bread for my lunch was with the donkey and I had  had none.  It was now fine again and I w
ent out and saw all the caves to the N  of the village.  There are evidently houses, niches and seat and fireplaces,
often rooms one above the other approached by rock cut steps which have broken  away often (the rock is very soft)- A so
rt of conglomerate.  Most of the doors  are square; some have a rough  arch inscribed round the door (in one I saw a
rude attempt at representing columns and caps) some a pediment.  Some have the  front cut away in an arcade which is car
ried round the corner in a single arch.  In many the whole rock is broken away and only the back wall remains.  Nearly
all have sort of divans along the walls, many a deep niche like a fireplace,    but no opening for smoke.  Many have sma
ll windows.  After tea I went to the S  of the village crossing the lovely valley full of flowering fruit trees and
scented with apple blossom.  One of the two big arched caves has an inscription over the arch.  It is elaborately cut in
side with arches against the inner wall and a staircase which leads nowhere.  (In one on the E of the village I saw the
imitation ribs of a barrel vault)  There is near it an open cave with 2 arches  which may have been a tomb.  Something l
ike a grave is cut into the floor.
This sort of grave in several.  In the valley below the village is one with     rude horseshoe arched niches inside and
out something like the Silleh chapel.   In this village are 3 feather tailed ....... dogs.  They do not know where they
came from.  The houses here are not really very different in plan from the      caves.  They are built one above the oth
er with ladders between like the caves.  My host's big room which is charming, is no more nor less than a cave and the
horses are lodged in the big vaults of it.  You go in from the top climbing and burrowing down.
                                        Thursday May 9.  Off about 6.30 with Shakir Agha and Fattuh and rode nearly to
the top of the Ali Sumas D, through oak scrub just coming into leaf.  Shaki     spoke of a petroleum well on the opposit
e side of the valley.  The Kilisra      people have their pasturages up here, both grass growing valleys and yailas on
the hills.  Lots of partridges which they catch with decoy birds.  So near the  top of the hill (1 and a half hours) we
came to a wonderful little church built with the N side against the rock.  The S facade decorated with rows of
horseshoe niches the arches being made of a white stone.  The W front of the    narthex was also adorned with niches and
 the relieving arch over the door was   horse shoed.  The niches seem to have been carried along the S wall of the
narthex.  Niches with frescoed saints in the E wall of the narthex and on the W wall inside, apparently Christ over the
door and rows of seated saints on       either side.  Traces of fresco everywhere.  The apse horseshoed, N of the
church a small ...... rock cut chapel with a niched apse and a domed roof.  One or two fragments of late Byzantine inscr
iption on the frescoes.  The walls had  been built with layers of wood and the wood had not yet decayed.  The S wall
will not stand long; it is already beginning to break away at the W end.  I was interrupted by a tremendous storm of rai
n which drove me into the cave.  It     blotted out all the hills.  We lunched therefore early, about 10.45, having
nothing better to do.  Shahir provided us with walnuts and Fattuh shared his    onions with them.  Presently the sun cam
e out a little and I finished my work.  (NB.  Bad building; no binding stones to connect the S and W wall hence the S
wall is falling away all in a piece.) This done we went up to the top of the    hill making a detour for the sake of the
 horses.  It was however very bad       going.  The site of the church is very interesting.  An immensely thick wall (2
metres I should think) protects it on the W side, the other sides being guarded by steep rocks.  You enter by a doorway
at the SW angle.  There is another      small door a little further N.  The church stands quite close to the wall.  It
is a perfect cruciform with a narthex.  A little further W there is a small     square building, also oriented but no ap
se.  In the middle of each of the 4     walls a huge double column is lying looking as if there had been 4 windows.
The lower part of the wall is decorated with 2 bands of mouldings, Baptistery?  Further on still there is another smalle
r square building quite undecorated.    The doorway of this stands.  The rain came down in torrents again but I would
not leave a cruciform unmeasured and we crouched for a miserable cold hour      under the stones.  Then it cleared and I
 did my work. There is a curious sort   of arched niche in the S wall of the narthex.  The windows are of the BBK type
and above them on the inside runs a flattish moulding.  No decoration outside   not even round the apse as at BBK.  It a
lmost exactly resembles the small       cruciform at Daoule but it is 20 metres long.  Ala K is more of the Firsandyu
and Yarme type.  I think it must have been roofed with wood;  Hayyat may have   been vaulted from the thickness of the w
alls.  Shahir had lighted a fire of the
damp oak scrub.  It was very comforting, so we rode down by the proper path     which was a good deal easier, and got to
 Kilisra at 3.45.  It rained hard again in the evening.  I was cold and stood for some time over Fattuh's wood fire
watching the rice and milk cooking.  In spite of the smoke of the damp wood it  turned out remarkably good.  Fattuh said
 the churches were built so high to be  near God.  Shakir opined that the little rock cut chapel must have been a
church for children.  Fattuh's mother in law and her 2 boys live with him and   he supports them.  His father keeps a sm
all shop.                               Friday May 10.  Off at 6.30.  Grey and not very warm with thunderstorms about,
but we escaped without rain.  We rode through hills and up a lovely valley till l of fruit trees.  Then we carossed a sm
all bare spur and dropped down into the                                Konia plain.  Got in about 12.30 and found heaps
of letters.  Read them and lunched, then came the Father of Donkeys I washed    and changed  and went off to see the Dou
ghty Wylies and then on to the Loytveds where I dined and stayed till near 11.
Saturday May 11.  Out early to the town to buy cups and plates.  Then to the    bank to see Trad and get money and so ba
ck to write letters.  Lunched with the  Wylies and spent the afternoon with them in their new garden.  Trad and Husni
Bey came to see me before dinner.  Husni Bey thinks Lotis' account of Turkish   women much exaggerated.  The family he k
new was not typical for it was half     European.
Sunday May 12.  Wrote letters all morning and lunched at home.  Called on the   Vali with Captain DW in the afternoon-Je
rad Pasha, he comes from Angora last.   Typical Pasha visit with the Konak full of beggars and horse buyers and the
Pasha all politeness.  He is oldish and delicate, unmarried, said to be a good  man.  Tea with the Trats and dinner with
 the Wylies.                            Wednesday May 13.  Poured all morning.  Went to the bank and then to lunch with
the Wylies.  We all went to the Museum where I saw the sarcophagus and a very   curious Seljuk frieze in low relief from
 a door in Konia.  Two figures of       angels with pigtails-half Chinese, half Persian.  An interesting Roman portrait
head and other things, some Seljuk.  Went back to tea with the DWs after        getting money from the bank.  Presently
the Loytveds came in and I only got     back in time for dinner.
Tuesday May 14.  Sent off 5 cartloads of luggage to BBK with my two Greeks,     Costi, Yanko (of whom I don't think much
) and a man who has dropped from the    skies by way of Akserai, Hassan Chowwish.  It was fortunately fine.  The Vali
and Husni called.  There are great agitations about my work because my trade    does not allow me to dig-I am known to h
ave sent up spades.  I do not know how  things will turn out.  Then Jacques the little Armenian drogoman came for me
and we called on the Minister of Public Instruction whom I am told is an        animal.  Go to lunch with the Loytveds-t
he DWs also of the party.  Wylie is     very angry with the English line because it will not send him
information-Cumberbatch says he has it but does not send it.  Loytved applied   for the published lists of tariffs etc a
nd was told they could not be supplied  to the German Consul!  He wanted to go to Egerdir and those parts but his
ambassador told him not to as it might hurt English susceptibilities.  The      tithes here have doubled in the last 10
years and prices of foods have gone up  immensely.  That does not affect the peasants much as they live on what they
grow and only profit by the increased price on what they sell.  The shopkeeper  class is hit hard.  The town is growing-
many new houses are being built towards
the railway station.  Loytved then took us round the mosques and explained his  theory about the 2 periods of building o
f the big mosque near the old Seljuk    palace.  It is obviously of 2 parts not in true relation with each other.
Possibly the old part was a Seljuk mosque earlier than the other which was      built by the 5th Seljuk.  It is not trul
y oriented to Mecca and may have formed part of a Christian monastery in connection with the domed cruciform church
just outside it.  Near the mosque which I thought (but wrongly) might have been a church there is a very early church, 3
 ......., now subterranean-or at least  if not very early at least very primitive.  There are no columns between the 3
..... but only walls.  ... tea with the D.W.s and I returned later to dinner    calling on Trat on my way.  I found Husi
n there and we discussed the situation  with regard to the trade.  The 2 Arab merchants from Basra whom I saw here last
year have lately been allowed to go home on payment of 1000 pounds.  They had   done nothing at all -a commercial rival
had accused them.  Very pleasant        evening with the D.W.s.  She insisted on giving me 4 tins of butter when I
left!  They have 2 S....... dogs.  Telegram from Ramsay to say he does not      arrive till Friday.
                                        Wednesday May 15.  Grey andn presently rained.  I have made friends with the
little officer who is head of the station police, Zeki is his name, he is a     Damascene.  It was pouring when we got t
o Arik Euren.  Found the horses and     carts and men including Haidar Chowwish my Zaptieh and two friends of Hassan's
who solemnly carried the two big lanterns Fattuh has bought.  Rained nearly all the way to Suleiman Hajji where I lunche
d in the Sheikh's house on bread and    cheese and yaourt.  The village stands by the edge of a very salt lake.  It is
all built of old stones but I saw no inscriptions.  From here we took the hill  road-awful for the arabus and ourselves
arrived unexpectedly at Maden Sheher    about 3 but the carts could not come our way and did not get in till near 8.
It was raining again and Fattuh and I took refuge in the big apse.  Presently I walked about and looked at some of the f
amiliar ruins, frightfully hungry       however.  We pitched camp half in the dark and I finally supped on eggs and
marmalade and bread and butter and so to bed.  Fortunately fine again.          Thursday May 16.  Spent the morning read
ing Father's Iron and Steel address and watching the camp being pitched and correcting my German proofs.  After lunch
went with Haidar and the invaluable Hassan to the top of the hill E of the town where there is a church.  Below it on a
spur, about 100 feet below, are ruins   of some small houses and a vaulted tank like those in the town here.  The
chamber is a cruciform like that on top of the hill at Kilisra.  I wonder if    they only built their cruciforms on hill
 tops?  On the E side of the hill half  way down are the ruins of what I take to be a small house standing in the
remains of an old garden run wild, vines and fruit tree.  A ..... of scarlet    tulips we saw coming down.  So in late t
o tea and drew out my church.           Friday May 17.  Started off soon after 6 with Hassan and Haidar and rode out by
the Karaman path.  About a quarter of an hour from Maden Sheher there are the   ruins of a house and tank.  We left the
road here and went to the right under   the foot of the hill.  In another half hour or so we came to large remains of a
village with one column of a church lying about.  Lots of doorways with the     lintel above ground.  It is a Yaila of t
he village of Dinek.  We took a man     here as a guide and rode up a double p....... hill, an outlying spur.  The path
pretty steep.  A Yaila at the foot of the hill.  In the .... there are ruins of 2 large buildings and on the peaks on ei
ther side a ruined fort.  That to the
right has 3 bastions 2 round and one octagonal.  One of the round bastions was  ocatagonal above the base.  There is a s
quare tank and a lintel with mouldings  and a dog tooth.  The peaks are part of the rim of a volcano.  In the bottom of
the crater is a round tank.  The castle on the opposite peak is much less       elaborate consisting of small chambers w
ith a passage running along them and    another irregular chamber on the west of the passage.  Lunched on the .... on
the wall of the large square ruin.  It began to rain and subsequently hailed a  little.  So home very tired  for some re
ason or other.  They call this fort     Baskta.  It is about 3 hours from Madensheher.  Slept a little and wrote
letters.  They had a lot of rain here.  It is cold.                             Saturday May 18.  Off at 6 to Ma'lech on
 the extreme top of the K.D.  We passed by the spring from which we get our water, a very small trickle a good half
hour up the hill.  the people of M.S. say they would give a hundred pounds for  the water to be brought into the village
-they are dying of the bad water, and I don't wonder.  We rode up a little above the hill I rode to from Daileh, Jandar
they call it, then left the horses with Abdullah and went on to the top, an     hour's walk.  Here I found a fine church
, capel and monastery with              cisterns-sent Hassan back for the lunch.  It was a beautiful day, the air and
view delicious.  The church was a cruciform of the hill top type.  It's main    merit was that it was so well preserved
that all its roofing could be seen.     The arms barrel vaulted, a tambour over the cross with a dome in it.  No doubt
the others were like this.  The chapel was connected with it by a passage.  It  was perfect except that the dome had fal
len in and I cannot believe that these  side chapels are baptisteries.  They must have been memorial chapels of some
kind and the hill top cruciforms places of pilgrimage.  Worked at these till    past 2.  The monastery much ruined.  Sku
lls and bones in a cave near by.  A     very curious bit of rock covered with patterns below the church. When I came
home I drew it all out and it came out right.                                   Sunday May 19.  Fattuh went off early wi
th Hassan to buy a lamb.  They will not sell them here as the sheep would cease to give milk.  Went down to the
cruciform and took a cart with great trouble and left abdullah to guard it all  day.  Came home and wrote letters and re
ad papers.  After lunch strolled all    round without seeing much except that there is another chapel by the NE church,
took off my cart which was beautiful and then walked up the W hill on the top   of which I found a well preserved church
 with a stone in it that looked like    the altar.  The who roofing system plain.  At the top of the walls the barrel
vaults begin of smaller stones set in a very strong mortar.  A curious chamber  S of the apse outside.  It ........... t
o the S with a cistern.  On the W side  of the hill a small square very strongly built chapel with ruined chambers S of
it-S of them a small square room built of big stones, the walls very thick like the church.  The hill was covered with b
lack arums.  I got back up in 5 and     found Fattuh who had brought a lamb home on his saddle bow.  He had bought it
in a village 3 hours away-bez Zor- and paid 2 and a half mejs.  News of a       ruined church on the N hill, Chat Dagh,
brought by Fattuh.                      Monday May 20.  Off at 5.45 up the W hill with 4 men.  We got out the altar
stone and I measured and drew it.  Them planned the church- the narthex very    irregular and curious but part of the or
iginal plan as is shown by the absence  of a NW door.  It was very badly built of smaller stones than the church and
not tied in to the latter so that it has fallen completely.  The big W door     would have been better fininshed if it h
ad been intended for an outside door.
The colour of the W wall and the traces of plaster for fresco also showed when  the narthex wall stopped.  The buildings
 to the S were in ......... with the    church and a passage led to the curious chamber by the apse.  2 parallel long
chambers in the middle of the hill, 40 metres from the church.  100 metres on   the chapel which I next measured and pla
nned.  A flight of steps had led up to  it for the hill dropped here.  Very hot morning.  Got in at 11.45 and lunched
and stayed in my tents till 1.15.  An extravagant letter from the Mudir of Arik Euren.  I sent aall my letters down by h
is messenger who set off at a sharp     run.  We laughted to see the post go.  I then rode up to Chat D.  A strong wind
rose and there were showers at various points of the plain.  The church here    was a square building with a dome like t
he one at Daileh.  Built of smallish    stones and much ruined.  No narthex as would be expected and the outer wall
buttressed in shallow niches.  Buildings and a cistern to the S.  On the top of the hill some 100 metres away, a small c
ruciform chapel much ruined.  My        impression is that the outer narthex here was not roofed but that the walls
came out like arms.  They seemed to be .......... each with a low pilaster and  there were no traces of an outer door.
So down and in at 5.15.  I meant to     draw out my churches but find I am too tired to do anything but write this.  I
am plentifully supplied with partridges (kehlik) so that the lamb still lives.  And tonight even two hares.
                                        Tuesday May 21.  Rode off with Haidar and Hassan at 5.45 by the Kolbasan road
round under the outlying SE hill-there is certainly a ruin on it which I must   see.  We wanted to go to a reported cave
 but found no one who could tell us     about it and finally I sent Hassan down to Kolbasan.  We waited an hour and a
quarter, I ........, and as he did not come rode down to K. ourselves where we  had news of his going out by another roa
d.  We followed and presently met him   with a .... Ahmed.  Where he had been I don't know.  The cave turned out to be
just under the castle (Bash Dagh) and near it I heard of a ruined church with   the picture of a bird in it but as it wa
s all so near the castle I decided to   go to the two places when I got back there.  So we rode on and at noon came to
a Circassian village.  Eminler (K. calls it Enirler) where I lunched in the     house of a charming man, Mehmet Bey.  He
 had worked at one time on the railway  and had been in the country 12 years.  Others had been 8 years.  The village
looked very clean and tidy with some 2 storied houses.  So we rode on to        Mandasun where I was to see an inscribed
 lintel but I found it was all          underground and not visible.  It is in the courtyard of a house built partly
inside a large square ruined building.  Lots of old stones, lintels with        crucifixes etc.  I had meant to go to Is
tesar to see the tumulus of which the   Mudir of Arik Euren told me, and to Kilesijik but they were much too far off,
so we turned up to the hills again.  Above Mandasun on the western slopes are   lots of Euren, chiefly long parallel lin
es of ruined garden walls, evlik Hassan called them.  The ground in now uncultivated.  We crossed a low spur and on the
N side of the mountain came upon a large town completely ruined.  Some          buildings looked like churches, one had
the remains of a niche decoration on    the outer walls:              something of that kind.  Below it we passed over
lots of old vineyards now apparently neglected.  So up to Daile and down here   at 5.15 pretty tired.  Noticed more ruin
s between Daile and here.  The crops we passed through on the S side were miserably poor.  Fattuh says the people of
Maden Sheher have scarcely any land, only that behind and in front of the town.  They have sheep and have suffered much
from the death of their sheep during
the past cold winter.  One man who had 500 has only 10 left.                    Wednesday May 22.  Off at 5.45 with 6 me
n and tools and up to the top of the    hill to Mahlech.  We cleared out the little chapel, got to the bottom of the
wall and found no foundations at all, but just mixed earth and stones.  Traces  of a pavement of coarse plaster about 3
or 4 inches thick, nothing else at all.  Found the walls at the SW corner of the curch and drew the curious patterns on
the rock below.  After lunch went up to the other hill top and found nothing.   Hassan went on to th furthest of all and
 found equally nothing.  So back by the inside of the crater (forget me nots just out) and over a snow patch down which
Haidar skidded, and round to Jandar which is the ruined fort I saw last         year-nothing to be made of it.  Back at
4 after a rather delicious day on top   of the hills.  Found letters, one from Ramsay announcing his arrival on Friday.
 Drew out the Geuz D church and chapel.  This morning was hazy and we have had  no rain today.
                                        Thursday May 23.  Off at 5.45 with Haidar and Hassan and rode to the top of the
outlying SE hill-I believe it too is called Kizil Dagh-2 hours ........  It is  extremely steep with slippery grass side
s, a nasty place to take horses up and  down.  The E ..... is covered with the ruins of a large fort.  Nothing to be
made of it.  We met a flock of mares and foals coming up to their yaila-Majuun  was had all the morning in consequence.
 Got in about 10 and drew out the Chat  D church.  After lunch, about 12.30 went off with the 4 Kurds and Yanko to the
big apse and began digging.  We traced the outer wall along the E and S sides   and found neither doors nor buttresses.
 The masonry on the E side ..... good,  that on the S more irregular.  Then we started from the SW angle of the apse
and followed along some stones lying in a quarter arch from it.  They turned    out to be nothing but fallen bits of an
arched moulding which must have         belonged to an arch above the moulding in situ on the apse.  Under there we
found the foundation stone of one of the great columns and from it northwards   we uncovered a wall which ended opposite
 the NW angle of the apse and another   great stone for the other colunn.  We dug nearly down to the foundations of the
apse wall and then it was 5 o'clock and we left off.  Sun pretty hot.  Fattuh   bought 2 lambs and 2 sheep for 10 mejs.
 We meant to milk the sheep ourselves,  but the difficulty of their having to go twice a day to the mountain pasturages
seems insuperable.  Hassan tells me of a perfect domed and preserved church 2   hours from Akserai.  Blue flax out.  We
found a lark's nest behind my tents the other day, with eggs in it.  Water is the difficulty here.  It takes the donkey
4 hours to go down from the spring with 4 tins.  Just above our tents there is  a clean cistern and I think we can buy w
ater for the men from there.  That      which we buy from the town is indescribable.
Friday May 24.  Off to my church soon after 6 and worked till after 11.  We     found no colunn bases beyond the big two
 in front of the apse, but in digging a trench we came upon graves.  The first was truly oriented to the E and W, built
of stones and covered with 3 rough slabs.  The second was from NE to SW, it was that of a child and covered by 2 slabs.
 We opened it and found the head lying  to the SW.  Beyond were signs of more all more or less askew NE x SW.  We tried
on the S side opposite the S column and found nothing.  Very hot.  In the       afternoon I looked for the walls ending
the periblos near the narthex but have  not as yet found them owing to a cornfield from whose owner I must get
permission to dig.  The Ramsays turned up about 3 in two arabus.  They at once  sat down among the ruins and made tea af
ter which she went up to see about the
tents and Ramsay stayed with me.  We didn't get back to camp till about 5.30    when we had tea.  Every thing very pleas
ant.  Delightful having them.  They     brought letters too.  Delicious night with a three quarter moon.  Their tents
have not arrived and they have 2 lent by the Wylies.  Louis is already deep in  birds and beasts.
                                        Sat May 25.  A delightful day.  Off with R to No 6 where I began to plan and he
to examine.  Presently he discovered the remains of a rude wall N of the        church and traced it partly round the hi
ll.  At the E side we found quantities  of rock cut wine presses-some were half full of rain water andthe shepherds
were bringing their cows up to them.  They consisted generally of an oblong     trough with a square hole in the rock ab
ove for the press.  This trough was     connected by a hole bored in the rock with a rock cut bowl.  I went on with my
drawing and R found an inscription in the door of the church-dedicatory to a    woman, no date.  So back to lunch after
which I went back to the measuring and  R presently joined me.  Lady R came out with me but left me alone to measure.
I think the church has been repaired.  The arches of the N aisle block up half  the N door.  The porch was made for the
new small door not for the old large    one.  The N door lintel is decorated with the shallowest mouldings possible
mere grooves, the S door has a bold moulding like that of the narthex lintel    but arranged exactly like that on the S
door of No 1-the moulding breaking off  and beginning again round the corner.  The two E piers are grooved for a rail,
if the restoration theory is true perhaps it accounts for the very strange      sloping of the aisle vaults.  the vaulti
ng buttresses are not tied into the     outer walls and on the S side have entirely fallen away leaving no mark.  The
apse horseshoe aisle is set onto the caps all askew.  The masonry of the walls  extremely rude in character-quite uneven
.  I think the church must be very      late-R thinks the inscription 9th or later.  A curious stone bowl a metre in
diametre W of the church.  (A similar stone basin lies in the town.)  I think   it is a font but could find no trace of
wells in the heaps of ruins round it.   A great triumph over my Mahlech inscription which is Hittite.  R thinks the
.... of No 6 may have been a ..... after the type of the Midas City fort,       guarding the town from the plain.  He sa
ys such ..... running into the hills    are what the old people liked-they were peaceful people not warriors.  We find
that Geuz D is also called Maden D from the two joint quarries?........  Hence  the name of the town.  After we had done
 workk we went off the classical tomb   and so home to tea.  The R's Greek boy Pridomos son of the chief magician of
Konia was summarily dismissed this morning because he refused to wash up.       Fattuh said he considered himself an eff
endi and called for tea and milk in the morning!  Meantime the Rs are without a man for Louis.
Sunday May 26.  Went out early to No. 6 and worked all morning getting in the   lie of the surroundings with a compass.
 Came in half an hour before lunch and  drew them in.  After lunch went back there with R and he worked some more at
the inscription while I measured mouldings.  He can get no date out of the      inscription, it is however a funeral ins
cription to a woman and probably from   its position the dedication of the church.  When we had done we walked over the
ground again and saw on the hill 2 very curious rocks one with 2 holes in it    and one with one.  The holes were round
funnels tapering to a point with the    openings at the top.  On the side they opened into an oblong hole.  The rock
was uncut part of the native rock.  We then rode across to No 21, the church    with the 2 chapels-resolved to begin wor
k there next day.  Lady R joined us
here and we walked down to 1 and 4 which we looked at, she making preposterous  or obvious suggestions.  I then rode up
to the .... in the village which is     very plain-I thought Seljuk-so did R.  Back to tea early and drew out 6 for the
most part.                                                                      Monday May 27.  Worked today on 21.  Got
 the narthex clear in the morning and   drew it.  In the afternoon we uncovered a good deal of the nave and found the
bays of the aisle filled up with very bad later walls.  We uncovered on the S   aisle the N being blocked with immense m
asses of vaulting.  About 3 a great     excitement was caused by the appearance of a covered cart.  The men at once
declared that it was the Kaimakam of Karaman and I set out to see.  But meeting Fattuh half way, I asked him and he ....
....  that it must be the Rs tents so I sent him up.  It turned out however to be 3 American archaeologists, pupils of
Sterrett's who had come to see R, their names Mr. Olmstead, Mr. Wrench and Mr.  Charles.  Greetings over I returned to m
y work and they sat down with Lady R.   Presently Fattuh appearaed with the Falten of Corn and we went down to see
the apse.  He however could not be persuaded to let us dig in his field for he  feared punishhment at the hands of the K
araman authorities.  He said if the     Kaimakam would give permission we might turn up the whole field but it was no
use his taking money and then suffering months of imprisonment.  This aroused   all our fears which were supplemented by
 the presence of a Karaman zaptieh with the Americans.  We determined to write to Ferid at once and to Hamdy.  The
Americans have travelled much in Syria, we talked a great deal of that country  after tea.  A very heavy thunderstorm at
 5 and the rain lasted till near 7.     Then it stopped and we were able to put our dinner table under the awning.
Very good dinner.  I offered the tent to the 3 Americans to sleep in as the oda was crowded and dirty.
                                        Tuesday May 28.  I worked all morning at 21 getting ..... at 6.  As we
uncovered I drew and measured.  The walls in the aisles are we think rude nomad houses built in after the town had been
deserted and ruined.  They are at any   rate of no architectural interest.  The original church was very good, the
mouldings, decorations fine, distinct on the capitals.  It may have been        repaired in Christian times for there is
 what looks like an added buttress with the spring of a vault inside the first bay from the apse.  R came down and sat
there writing while I measured.  When we got nearly to the end he took some of  the workmen and went up to the W town.
Two of the Americans came down and it   being near 12 we strolled up to the tents together going by the mausoleum.  At
lunch R announced that he thought the upper was the ancient city.  I went back  to 21 directly after lunch and worked an
 hour and a half at the apse.  We got a stone bench with a raised seat in the middle-the stone of this was displaced
but we found, replace it.  The apse had been floored with some sort of tile.    Having photographed this I went to the W
 town and found R working on 15 with    Wrench and Olmstead.  Lady R was supervising the digging out of a small
chapel above, not marked by Smirnow-22 we will call it.  Went up to draw the    outside and stayed till near tea when I
returned to R seeing the small stone    lion on the way.  This one has a Greek inscription, we must therefore put it
and the other down as Lycaonian.  The Americans found below the W town flint    knives, and scraps of pottery.  Most of
these last were Byzantine but a few     pieces were much older.  Resemble Mycenaean ware to which period of
civilization they may well belong.  All my household arrangements have gone     splendidly under the strain of so many g
uests.  The meals have been excellent
and Costa seems to be settling down.  Yanko is doing very well.                 Wednesday May 29.  Rode off at 5.45 with
 Mr. Wrench to the Byz fort.  We got    there in 3 hours.  All the flowers have come out-lovely bushes of yellow
briars.  But the people have all gone up to the high yailas and the foot of the hills is quite empty.  Worked at the upp
er fort for 3 hours by which time it    was finished and we lunched for an hour.  Then walked round the top of the
crater but found nothing more and measured the other fort and the buildings     below.  This took 3 hours more.  The obl
ong building by the round water basin   appears to have covered a spring, for there looks to be a spring at this point-
the water is at a higher level than that in the basin.  It is however much      blocked now.  So we rode home in 2 and a
 half hours and got in about 6.15       pretty tired.  There was a Kurdish revolt this morning.  Hassan and the other 3
struck for more wages-15 ps for the other 3- and Hassan like a serpent          persuaded the villages to ....... for 15
 ps.  We were however too many for      them.  Fattuh had already got me workmen from other villages and promised me as
many more as I wanted.  We sent the Kurds away, Hassan and Abdullah went but    Wali and Reza returned, the villagers ca
me in at 10 ps!  Water is the great     difficulty;  the villagers grumble at our using so much, we have now made an
arrangement with the workmen from the other village by which they are to fetch  us some extra water from the spring when
 they fetch theirs.  The villagers will give neither wather nor food.  The servant of the Americans complained he could
buy nothing to eat.  Their zaptieh has quartered himself on me.  No letters     today.  Captain Wylie can not have .....
.....  To bed at 9 very tired.          Thursday May 30.  Up at 5.30, having breakfasted alone, none of the others
having appeared, I went off to No 10 where they are working.  I have about 40   men today.  R thinks we are definitely a
t Barata.  He derives the name from the Greek, Barathou, the holes in which they threw their prisoners and thinks it
was so called from the 2 big holes in the Maden (Geuz) D. from which the        Turkish name comes.  He is doubtful as t
o the W town being the old city as it   only has traces of building on one side of the tell and he does not see where
the W and S defences could have been.  The Americans came up to say goodbye and started off for Mahlech.  They have been
 useful but I'm not really sorry they   have gone.  It made too many people.  Worked all day at clearing out 10.  We
came upon some curious great earthen ware jars let into the ground below the    floor.  Looked about the W town for a po
ssible house but found none.  We looked at No 16 and came to the conclusion that it was the roughest village work,
probably after the Seljuk conquest.  To that time belongs the repaired W wall   of 15 and probably the ruined houses rou
nd it.  The inscription built upside    down into the W front of 15 is itself very late.  We saw the Paulina
inscription on 16.  Very hot and tiring day.  To bed early.                     Friday May 31.  We had over 50 men today
 and worked all day clearing 10 which   we finished.  We found 4 of the jars.  Mahmud, R's new man, a Roumelian Turk,
says that in his country such jars with funnels are used for baking.  They      light the fire inside and blow through t
he funnel.  3 of our jars have funnels, one appears to be just a ..... jar.  There are signs of the blackening of fire
inside the one we emptied.  If this is so they must have been put in after the  church had ceased to b e used as a churc
h.  All the work inside is very poor,   capitals and pilasters miserable.  I make 14 ...... inside and the door in the
middle opposite the apse.  R and I went up in the morning to trace the rude     wall along the sides of the plateau S of
 10.  We went up as far as Lady R's
church 23 which is a tiny chapel 21 ft long including the narthex.  Quite       ruined.   The two lintels of the church
and the narthex are decorated with the  rof big rooms to the N of it, possibly a monastery.  We saw several tracbig
rooms to the N of it, possibly a monastery.  We saw several traces of rude      cutting in the rocks to let in the stone
s for the rude wall.  It seems to go on high above the chapel to the very top of the s..... below the hills.  This
makes the site of the ancient town very large.  Probably the upper part was     never built over but was left open field
s.  The round basin at the lower NE end of the W town looks like an old crater.  The stream course seems to come down
into it and end there.  Possibly it forms a kind of lake in winter.  The sides  of it seem to have been defended by wall
s in terraces.  After tea the Falten of Corn came for R and showed him a sarcophagus with a Roman inscription.  R. also
found traces of an aqueduct near the town, the water coming from a spring in    the glen which Louis has seen.  The F of
 C brought a lamp found in a            sarcophagus with other objects.  Fattuh has gone to Karaman today with Haidar
to buy a donkey.  At 8 they had not returned.                                   Saturday June 1.  Nor did they get in ti
ll past 12, Fattuh very bad with        neuralgia which lasted all day.  He looked a rag at night and we gave him
phenacatin which eased the pain so that he slept.  I was very energetic after a dose of quinine.  We had a quite prepost
erous number of men, over 80.  Yaniko   keeps no count of them and hasn't an idea who comes.  In the morning I finished
cleaning out 15 while Lady R superintended the clearing of the N outer wall of  10 from which my calculation of 14 sides
 appeared quite correct.  I also        finished the clearing of the small church 22 which is without value, the marble
columns brought from elsewhere-Ribbon pattern on both lintels.  This being all  finished before 12 we took the men down
to the 2 mounds the Americans thought   were tumuli and begane there, but after lunch came such a terrible complication
of payment that I decided to stop work for the day, more especially as a heavy  thunderstorm began.  The rain lasted til
l tea time on and off.  It took me till past 3 to pay off the men.  then I began to draw out 10, found Smirnov's
mistake and after tea went up and got some more measurements.  R makes the      brilliant suggestion that Strzygowski's
Derbe church from Hubsch is the same as this which I think is true.  BBK has been suggested as Derbe.  Hubsch does not
seem a safe guide for Stryzgowski quotes a Hierapolis circular building from    him which I do not think exists.  Much p
leased with the solution of the 10      problem.  The zezafun out.
Sunday June 2.  We dug all day at the tumuli and found nothing.  I sat under    the zezafun bushes and drew out 10.  The
n Lady R appeared and I left and went   up and measured 15 and 22.  Came down hot and tired after another visit to 10
and began drawing out 15 till lunch.  A messenger from the Kaimakam of Karaman  brought a friendly note from Hamdy to ou
r great joy.  I wrote to both of them.  Back to the tumuli and drew out 15 discovering that it had been used as a
mosque and the W wall is consequently Moslem and not Greek.  Chased R all over  the ruins and finally caught him at a sa
rcophagus and showed him 13 which we    decided is not worth clearing.  Then back to the tumuli and up by 15 to look
for the mihrab which I found and so in to tea.  Fattuh a little better.         Monday June 3.  Started off at 5, delici
ously cool, with Haidar and Mehmet for  Meliz.  The big Euren round the corner of the hill is called Duzla, the yaila
and euren under the rocky hole further on Gecheli, the site at the NW foot of   Kolbasan Kizil D is called Aylan Kilisu.
  After Gecheli there is a well marked
road along the side of the hill and a little further on there are many stones   that look like displaced paving stones.
 I expect this is the old road from the plain to the castle.  We went below the castle road and crossed 3 deep ravines,
2 quite close together.  This brough us to the foot of Bash D and here we came  upon Naghran Euren with the lintel with
2 peacocks on it.  I saw no ruins       staznding at all but a bit of a house with a door moulded all round (not well)
and a round boss on the lintel above the moulding.  A little further and we     came to the top of the col at the foot o
f Bash D.  The mountain falls very      steeply here and soon breaks into a cliff.  We got to this point at 8.10,
allowing for stops to measure and photograph at Naghran.  Mehmet and I climbed  up into the big cave which is called Mel
izin Mughara.  You come to the entrance from the side; it is high up on the cliff and guarded by a wall to protect the
entrance passage.  2 roughly cut stone seats at the entrance.  We lit candles   and crept in and downwards for about 45
yards.  The passage winds and is very   narrow and low, a .... ....., in one place so small that one can scarcely creep
through.  At the end of it are 3 recepticles, the largest about 4 feet square   at the top.  They ran down into the rock
, the irregularities are carefully      filled in with square tiles and the whole plastered over with a thick smooth
coat of plaster.  Mehmet said they are about the height of a man but they were  half full of debris.  Many bits of the t
iles lying about most with patterns on  them, wither a wavy line or a sort of fir tree pattern which Sir W days is very
common on Byz tombs-a branching pyramid.  Mehmet says the tradition is that the Arabs at the conquest carried off 3 load
s of gold coins from here.  I should    think it was the treasury of the castle.  We came out and went down the hill to
the bottom of the cliff.  Half way down there were 2 round holes high up in the cliff, one completely broken away, the o
ther showing traces of steps leading    up.  It is now full of bees.  Meliz at the bottom of the cliff is a volcanic
passage like the other cave, guarded at the door by a wall and rude gate.  The  passage is much blocked by fallen debris
 and you can only get a little way into it.  I did not go at all.  Under the big upper cave there are some other holes
in the face of the cliff now inaccessible.  Lunched and rode home getting in at one.  The flowers lovely.  All sorts of
charming herbaceous things, the gentian blue thing is a sort of m....... and a beautiful kind of yellow accacia and
lots besides.  Found the Rs had begun the trench and cleared out my mihrab.     Changed and washed.  Started off for the
 trench, R joining me.  He has cleared  a great stone water trough on the slope of the hill opposite 16.  Photographed
the mihrab and took some notes and photographs of 16 which is a very rude badly built place and watched the trench makin
g till 4.15 when we came in to tea.     None of the pottery we have got so far is at all old, at oldest late Byzantine.
 Rather sleepy and tired.                                                       Tuesday June 4.  Worked all day digging
out 7.  R had 15 men in the morning at  the trench and got no results so he sent them down to me but I had too many and
sent some away after lunch.  In the morning appeared Mr. Robinson, Hilprecht's  son in law, a charming young American of
 19.  We sat and talked while the men   had their half hour off at 10.  No 7 proves very confusing and difficult and I
am at a loss to know what to make of it.  The walls end in nothing or go off at impossible angles.  They are also very b
adly built.  We worked on till 5 by     which time I had got as much out of it as I could get.  Mr. Robinson and Louis
came back at dinner time with a vulture's egg.                                  Wednesday June 5.  Rode half up Kartalik
 Dagh and took a rubbing of a capital R
had found.  Then came down and went round the walls of the village with R and   Lady R.   We conclude that it is very la
te, later than No 3, probably a last    defence of the Christians against the Seljuks rather than of the Seljuks
against the nomads.  This on account of the extreme badness of what building    we have been able to date at post Christ
ian.  Anyhow it was probably thrown up  in a great hurry.  Only 2 crosses to be found on it all and those most likely
on older stones.  Every kind of fragment built in.  After lunch went down and   planned 7 with great trouble.  Drew it o
ut after tea.  I think the narthex has  nothing to do with the big apse.  It is not even in line with it.  We opened
out a sarcophagus near by and discovered a very curious sculpture of a man      sparring with a lion and a vase between.
  R. says the man is in the dress of a  Hittite priest and the sculpture is probably a reminiscence of a very old
tradition of decoration.  Mr. Robinson left this morning.  The post brought me  a delightful letter from Sir W Garston a
bout my book.  Horrible wind.           Thursday June 6.  The wind continued and made work almost impossible.  I went
down to 7 and in wind and dust drew and measured till I was almost mad.  Then I came up and drew out what I had done.  B
ut I have not dug enough here and I     fear I must come back to it.  I then went down to the mosque in the village
which is a church of the usual basilica type destroyed and rebuilt.  The        outline of the apse is visible outside t
he mosque wall.  They have made a       window in this wall at this place.  There are some interesting and curious bits
of elaborate decoration, two carved fragments that look like doorposts or       columns carved on two sides with delicat
e entrelac.  Another broken bit let     into the floor, a sort of floral pattern making arcades and another bit in the
S wall.  I then went on to the mausoleum and measured it which was as well as   Holtzmann has no ground plan.  In the af
ternoon Sir W and I went round all the  E and middle churches.  No 1 is repaired exactly on the same plan as 6 with
sloping vaults.  We have got an inscription on the centre column, very late,    perhaps 12th century, a puzzling inscrib
ed stone in the foundations.  Sir W     thinks the walled town may have gone on being Christian and the upper town
Seljuk.  there is no mosque in the fort.  One of the last of the Christians may have cut his epitaph in the then ruined
No 1 outside the walls and he may be    buried there.  We placed all the ruined churches and found a Ro cross on a
house lintel.  We also measured the N and S doors of 21 and found them to be    exactly opposite.  So home past 5.  The
wind dropped after tea, a blessed       relief.
Friday June 7.  Delicious day with a light N air.  Sir W says the plateau owes  everything to the N wind;  the people ev
en ........ with it.  Went down to 7    and measured again.  Sir W joined me and we measured the big apse very
carefully, quite decided that it was not horseshoed.  If anything it curves     outwards very slightly to the extreme po
ints.  We then rode across to 6 and I   got the windows and found to my satisfaction that they had been blocked because
the new ..... of the aisles came in front of them.  So to 17 which I measured   together with the monastery.  An interes
ting plan, very late I think, much      frescoed and no mouldings but one on the apse scarcely to be called a moulding
- inside.  The whole plan much resembles the W chapel and monastery on Geuz D.  After lunch I drew out 17 and put in the
 windows of 6.  Then walked down to 5   and 8 and got the mouldings, photographed . and on to 6 where I ratified the
blocking of the S windows and found another in the N wall.  They by 17 where I  got the cistern.  Most delicious on this
 hillside.  The yellow mullin thing
coming out in crowds and the blue thing all out.  The yellow sort of ocuotha    flower here and a white flower with a gl
aucus spreading .... just out.  Mahlech looked delicious flecked with cloud.  Packed after tea.  Never saw Argaeus so
clear.  Very sorry to leave this nice place.                                    Saturday June 8.  Great packing up.  Sai
d Wali brought down 8 camels from Daile so we took none from Madensheher.  They came down last night and made a horrid
nooise.  After breakfast Sir W went off with Abdallah to see an inscription and I took Haidar, rode up onto Yaz Tepi, bu
t there was nothing there but a few     little ruined houses.  Accordingly I siezed the opportunity of getting the
church on the hill three quarters to Daile which I found to be a large niched   church.  There was a small much ruined c
hapel a little to the east of it and to the NW and SW a complex of buildings all completely ruined with crosses on the
lintels.  By the time I had finished the church the camels appeared with Louis  and Lady R on donkeys and I rode on to l
ook for a camping ground.  Fortunately  Fattuh appeared in a few moments and we chose a delightful place outside the
village overlooking the whole plain.  Our 3 tents were put up at once and I     retired into mine and drew out my church
.  Very windy.  We lunched in Lady R's  tent and I slept for 2 hours.  Then wrote letters and about 4 Sir W appeared
with 3 Hittite inscriptions.  So we had a very cheerful tea and then the        excellent Fattuh turned my tent round be
cause I had had it put up badly.  Many  changes here.  3 ... inhabited ..... upper row of columns has fallen down.  J
is also inhabited by Said Wali.  I walked round with him before dinner and saw  several new inscriptions.
                                        Sunday June 9.  Did very little today.  We opened out a few inscriptions in the
morning and I began making a cast of a lintel in 14.  After lunch just as I was going out to work appeared the Kaimakam
of Karaman with Husin Pasha, whom I was very glad to see again and a cheerful little official of the town.  They were
most pleasant and stayed a long time.  Husni Pasha is particularly agreeable.   When they had gone I had only time to fi
nish my cast while Sir W dug out a few  inscriptions on 2.  Came back to the tents-helped Fattuh to put up the kitchen
awning just in time for we got it up just before a driving thunderstorm.        Splendid effects of cloud on Mahlech.
                                        Monday June 10.  Had 21 men on and dug out nearly all 3 with the monastic
buildings.  Sir W got the incription on the apse which is the dedication by 3   people, Domitius Valerius and Indicus.
The funeral inscription of Longinus son of Indicus is on the E door of the monastery together with a dedicatory
inscription of Paulus the son of Longinus.  The small cruciform is the burial   chapel of a Paulus, we hope the same.  W
e came upon other fragments of          inscriptions and determined to let the narthex be cleared out tomorrow while we
are away.  7 seems to be in the same enclosure.  I try to make a guess at what  Basil's restoration may have been.  Work
ed very hard all day.  Elyas and some   of his people have come up and the inevitable Yordan from Madensheher.  The
people here are most delightful.  I destroyed a small tobacco plantation of     Said Weli's and he only laughed.  We fou
nd 2 large jars inside the wall of      Basil's gate.  I gave one to Hassan and one to Said Weli if they can get them
out.  Thunder storms all round us in the afternoon but we had only a few drops  of rain.  Much cooler up here.  This mor
ning all the grass was wet with last    night's rain.
Thursday June 11.  Off at 6 with the 2 Ramsays, Elyes, Abdullah, Haidar and     Riza and went to the NE Kizil D to see t
he Hittite inscriptions.  We rode
through Suleiman Hajji, now almost deserted for the people have gone to their   yaila,-by the edge of the salt lake.  Th
e hill is the very most outlying one of all and the pointed rock on which the inscriptions are cut can be seen in
profile as you come up from a long way off.  We rode half way up and then       walked, very steep and rocky.  the whole
 hill covered with fragments of         pottery, mostly red with a fine glaze, but some with patterns of the Mycenaean
type and some possibly Hellenistic.  Very puzzling this as there is no water    and the hill does not appear to have bee
n inhabited in later times.  The        inscriptions very fine, cut on the back, .... and W side of a curious rock
shaped like a great throne.  There has been a shelf hewn all round the rock     beneath the lowest.  On this I stood to
get the impressions- very tiresome work owing to the wind's blowing under the paper, also I was not very successful.
Meantime Lady R climbed up to the top and found the traces of an ancient        fortified city.  Sir W went off to look
at it.  It was 11.30 by the time they   came back and I had come to the end of all my paper so we lunched getting a
little shade on the N side of the rock.  The Konia plain stretched out below us like a board.  The hill trended round a
little to the NE and in its arm lay in  the plain the village of Yelanli.  There was a well of water in the plain below
us but Haidar said it was bad.  There is water at Yelanli and bitter water at   another village behind the hill.  When w
e had lunched and rested we went to the top.  There is a double row of fortifications one terraced above the other with
a sloping bank between on which are traces of building.  In the upper wall is a bastion where the gate must have been, w
ith a rock hewn altar and an            inscription below it and on the opposite side to the altar a stone cut away as
though to make room for the path.  Lower down there are more traces of this     approach, steps and cut stones far down
the hill and the enceinte is built of   rude stones and the native rock is used when possible.  Masses of pottery
everywhere.  The view very fine over a little pointed hill and across the lake  to the higher peaks.  Also the .... to M
aden Sheher could be clearly seen.  It  lies on a sort of plateau under the hill.  Sir W copied the inscription and we
came away.  I rode on with Haidar and got back in an hour and a half.  They     came in three quarters of an hour later
or so.  The change of atmosphere and    temperature coming up to Daile again was very marked.  Thunder storms about but
they did not reach us.                                                          Wednesday June 12.  Had about 30 men, wo
rked at 13(?) getting out a good deal,  particularly the connection with 9.  Yanko had finished the narthex of 3 the
day before and I set about to measure and draw it while the men worked, a most  exhausting job as I was perpetually call
ed away.  After lunch turned up Mr.     Bros whom I did not at first know and was not at all glad to see.  I gave him
lunch and then left him and returned to my work.  We got through the greater    part of the monastery.  Mr. Bros announc
ed that he was not interested in        archaeology.  He sought no information and we profferred none and he finally
left knowing as little about the place as when he came.  We put up the Wylies'  tent for him and Fattuh lent him a bed.
 He accepted all as a matter of course. Thursday June 13.  A most exhausting day digging at 13 and drawing 3.  By noon
I had got out all I could of the monastery and I paid the men off.  I spent the afternoon drawing 3 and the monastery by
 it and was very tired and not at all   inclined to entertain Mr. Bros whom I left entirely to his own devices.
Several of the Maden Sheher people have come up including Osman.                Friday June 14.  Mr. Bros left at 3 on m
y horse to catch the Eregli train.  We
worked at 14, at the building in front of 3 where we found steps, at 7 and at   5.  Got through a great deal.  I did not
 attempt to draw today.  Fearfully      tired by the end of the afternoon.  Fattuh and Haidar went to Konia today.
Saturday June 15.  We cleared out 3 and the narthex and I replanned it.  We got it all out quite clear but it did not en
lighten us much further.  What looked   like something odd in the first bay after the nave turned out to be a later
building probably a house built inside it.  Feel pretty certain that the        chamber to the south is contemporary wit
h the church; it is joined on to it on  the E wall by curious straight joint.  The N porch of the monastery has the
same caps as the church and the arches had a plain fillet on them like the      arches of the .... room.  This fillet is
 wanting in Basil's door.  NB  No 7     also has flat arches against the wall.
Sunday June 16.  Measured 14 all morning.  Fattuh came back with letters and    delicacies such as cherries.  Drew out 1
4 most of the afternoon.  Then went     with Sir W. to look at 15 which we determined to clear.  Some wolf cubs were
brought in of which we bought 2.                                                Monday June 17.  Sir W and Lady R and I
went to the top of Mahlech and cleared  the Hittite chamber.  It has Byzantine walls inside and a Byzantine gate to the
W-apparently they turned it into some sort of a sanctuary.  Rock cut steps to   the N, perhaps the beginning of a Hittit
e altar.  Lady R found an inscription   on the E wall of the chapel "In memory of Leritas."  Sir W pronounce it to be
early from the letters.  I found a long covered chamber leading from the church to the monastery.  The forget me nots al
l out and a charming little geranium.   He dismisses the theory of a Hittite fort and thinks it was merely a High
Place.                                                                          Tuesday June 18.  We worked on 15 and fo
und an immense monastery of I think     only one story going right up to 5 with an enceinte wall enclosing 5.  Sir W
thinks it formed the outer line of fortifications on this side.  Loytved came   at 11.30.  I showed him round.  Very hot
.  I went out directly after lunch and  superinteded the work and measured that which was done.  Then took Loytved
round the ........  We sat talking for a bit after dinner.  Lovey warm night    with a little moon.  We had a dust storm
 at tea time.                           Wednesday June 19.  Loytved and I rode along the side of the hill to the Dinek
yaila, Asamadi, where we found a church chapel and monastery. Horrid wind but   the flowers most lovely.  We then rode u
p to Mahlech where we lunched.  Mehmet  appeared with paste and we took a cast of the last half of the inscription.  L
found 2 inscriptions on the arches inside the chapel.  Rode home round the      inside of the crater by the yaila I noti
ced that the door pilasters of the      church have shields like ........ and drew them.  The exonarthex is part of the
original building.  The inner door has a cross but no mouldings.  Devel of a    wind.  L. told me tales of Testa in Cons
tantinople who seems to be a remarkable man-his Knowledge of the East is unrivalled says L.  He does not like[?]
Marschall.                                                                      Thursday June 20.  Drew out 15 all the m
orning.  Loytved left after lunch-we    had a tremendous discussion on Anglo German relations before he went.  He said
he looked on England as the constant opponent of Germany in all her inevitable  efforts at expansion-.... the Persian Ba
nk as an instance of how she must keep  a door open for her enterprise even in countries where she has at present no
interest.  He thinks the King has insulted Germany far more than the Emperor    England-the Pan Slav students (anti Germ
an) and the King's reply to them he
gave as an example.  Also his refusal to visit Berlin.  He thinks it will end   in war owing to England's pushing German
y up against the wall.  He is evidently much alarmed by the recrudescence of English influence in Constantinople.
Friday June 21.  Sir W and I spent the day at BBK.  I worked at 16, 11  and 7   while he went off to look for an inscrip
tion.  We lunched under some zezafun    bushes by 1.  After lunch it began to stream with rain and the whole mountain
was blotted out.  I worked on till 3 and then rode home in streaming rain.      Very cold and it rained a great deal in
the night.                              Saturday June 22.  Very stormy cold and windy.  Mahlech covered.  I drew out
yesterday's work and in the afternoon measured and planned 2, Hassan's house.   Never was there a plan so full of fleas.
  I came in covered and was obliged to  change everything.  Miss Dodd of the American College in Constantinople
arrived; a very nice little woman, a pleasant addition.  Hurricane in the       night.
                                        Sunday June 23.  Very cold and windy.  Sir W and I went down to BBK and looked
round all the churches except 6.  We found a mosaic pavement in 21 and made a   lot of useful notes.  Came back to lunch
 at one.  The day had improved though   still very windy and I took Hassan and Elyas and went up to Kizil Hissar, a
most wonderful site among rocks and oak trees.  The castle was too much ruined  to be worth planning.  The view over the
 plain quite lovely.  Got in about 6    pretty tired.
Monday June 24.  Went down to BBK and had a tremendous days work with 30 men.   We cleared 7, found the bases of the old
 columns and the restored W door.  We   then cleared 5 and found an inscription.  Fattuh came down with a hot lunch for
me which I eat under 5.  We cleared the apse of 11 and opened the narthex of 4.  I planned 7, 5 and 1, besides the apse
and narthex of the other two.  At the   last Stryzgowski was lost, a fearful tragedy!  He turned up next day.  Got back
at 6.15 after just 12 hours from door to door.  Not at all tired, washed and    changed.  The fine weather has returned.
  Sir W and the others went up to       Mahlech.
Tuesday June 25.  Lazy day very hot.  Visited 4 and 10 and drew mouldings and   lintels till 11.30.  After lunch drew ou
t all yesterday's work till 5.  Sir W   went to BBK and up to Mahlech.  Wonderful still hot evening.
Wednesday June 26.  Went out photographing and was carried off by Sir W. to     discuss the dates of the different parts
 of 3.  We succeeded in coming to a     conclusion.  Lady R meantime found a bit of moulding built into the N part of
14 which I had to consider.  I don't think it comes to much but the N .... was  probably added to the other though it is
 exactly of the same style and work and cannot therefore be much later.  This led me on to taking the mouldings and
lintels of 14 and the tower very carefully which I had not yet done before.     Then I measured 13 till lunch after whic
h I drew out 13 which mades a very      pretty plan.  Very hot.
Thursday June 27.  Sir W. and I rode down to BBK and looked at 6 together.  I   think he is right in holding that all th
e upper part of the walls has been      rebuilt but it is very difficult to be certain as all the stone work is of a
sort of rough Cyclopean sort.  The chapel is ....... the same.  It only looks   better because only the lower courses ar
e preserved.  They are good in 6 too.   We then rode on to 7 and discussed the W facade and whether Laborde could
possibly have seen what he drew.  I think not but we must give him the benefit  of the doubt.  I then went to 21, 1 and
4 (the engaged pier with the cross has
been broken down and has disappeared)  and Sir W to 15.  I returned by the low  road and he by the high road and we met
outside Yas Tepe and got in at 10.30.   We found all the Ramsay tents and luggage gone.  Drew out mouldings.  We
lunched early and at 1 they all left on 3 donkeys and one of my horses. I hear  they only reached Aryh Euren 5 minutes b
efore the train started.  I felt rather lonely and therefore went out and measured 1 and 12 (which we had had cleared
in the morning) and afterwards drew them out till tea. Read the Spec[Spectator?]and wrote letters.  I miss Sir W very mu
ch, all the cheerful company.           Friday June 28.  A long and rather tiresome day.  Fattuh went off at 3 am to
see about transport.  I measured various chapels and tombs and drew them out,   but it was all over at 10.30.  Then I re
ad Sarre till lunch after which I slept for an hour, drew out mouldings and finished Sarre and took photographs at
various hours all day to catch the light.  At 3 rode up to take a big picture   of the crater but it will not be very su
ccessful as the clouds blew up just at  the moment.  We had a few drops of rain later and a little thunder.  Much
.......today .  Packed till dinner and then read an OldSpec contentedly.  I     shall have been 6 weeks and 4 days here
tomorrow.  The R were here 5 weeks all  but a day.  A well spent time.  Fattuh got in after 9 having hired the cart and
sent it to Suleiman Hajji.                                                      Saturday June 29.  All the village came
to see us pack and to get the last      piastre it could out of us!  Kal Hussein came up from BBK and had to be content
with 3 mejs for his corn.  We loaded onto 4 camels and our 2 donkeys and hired  a donkey for Costi.  So at 6.20 we .....
. rather sadly down the hill     bright .... weather.  "Hkatirik ya moyyeh!"  said Fattuh as we passed the well.  The
whole path was edged with flowers.  At the bottom of the hill we found the cart and packed into it - a heavy load.  All
this took about 2 hours.  Mehmet of     Suleiman Hajji had brought it up.  Then we parted with Costi who rode off
rejoicing to Aryk Euren, and with Hajj Weli who had brought the camels down.    We rode past Suleiman Hajji, under the H
ittite stone and through Ilanli.  (All  the water in these wells is slightly brackish)  Here we hired a man to go with
Elyas the donkeys and the cart, and we rode over the corner of the hill and     over the absolutely flat plain to Uzun K
.  Fattuh related how he had bought his wife 60 pounds worth of gold ornaments so that she might have that property
always with her in case he died for his sister had threatened her that if he    died his money would go to her children
as the wife had none.  It was pretty    hot but there was a slight N breeze to keep us alive.  We lunched in the house
of the Khoja, a very pleasant spot.  All these villages are Turkman.  They say  the Degle and Yuz Tepe people are Yuruks
, the BBK partly Yuruks partly Turkmen.  Musa is a Yuruk, Osman and Abdullah Turkmans.  I had a long talk with the
people after lunch while F slept.  They say the land is very poor and indeed    the crops seem to be scanty.  We arrived
 at 11.45 and left at 1.45.  Very       little cultivation.  Most of the flat plain grows practically only one little
spindly aromatic plant.  We saw the women  getting great harvests of yellow     flowered thistles for camel fodder.  We
saw Egilmeg to the right and passed     through Kayajik and Ort Oba which is the same as K's Hassan Oba.  So we reached
Otamish at 4.15.  Very windy and sunny.  We went to the house of one of         position who gave us Iran and coffee and
 sat there talking till the carrt       arrived about 6.45.  Most of the people had gone up to yaila in the Boz D.
They say there is no water there.  .. water is all below in deep wells, and no  euren, but according to K the latter can
't be true.  The people of Uzun K don't
go to yaila.  The evening was quite cool and the great flat plain in front of   my tent very delicious.  There is a litt
le mound to the W of the village which  I thought was old but I saw nothing but modern potsherds on it and the people
say it is being made for a fort with guns.  F's......... are Yiftah harinu and  Wallah al Azim.  The Turkmans are certai
nly very like Fattuh.  A pleasant day.  I was so glad to be on the road again.  F. quoted a proverb while we were
riding as the crow flies across the plain:                            .         Sunday June 30.  Fattuh woke me this mor
ning with the remark that the plain was more beautiful than the hills and really I'm not sure it isn't.  I stretched in
the low light up to the barren sides of Boz Dagh which were touched into light  and .......... the low sun, and then it
stretched on to Konia.  We were off at  6.15.  In an hour and a half we reached a low ridge on the other side of which
lies the small village of Karabunar yaila.  At the end of this ridge to the     left is a small ....... mountain very ba
rren which Haidar called Surnuf D.  On  the right was a line of low hills which appeared to be partly salt and partly
sand.  At the extreme end of this is Karabunar-we could see the minarets of its mosque long before we reached it.  I got
 there in another hour and a            quarter-according to the pace I judge it just over 13 miles from Otamish.  A
very fine road leads through the town from nowhere-it goes to Eregli.           Karabunar is distinctly zift.  The first
 thing we saw were small hard apricots  and sour cherries which we bought and eat.  There is a fountain with 3
sarcoph for the water to run through, one with a very rudely carved lion on it.  The big mosque was built by Sultan Seli
m who built too in Konia and in         Karaman.  It has rather a pretty doorwazy with a good door adorned with fine
metal work.  Inside a marble mihrab, minbar and some very nice old kelims.  A   huge carpet was rolled up in one corner.
  It covers the whole mosque and is saidto be Persian presented by Sultan Selim.  I climbed the hill to the S of the
town.  There are two old mills on it.  I picked up some Byz pottery.  The       kaimakam came to call.  Great difficulty
 and many councils about transport.     Finally we decided on camels to Sahir-not Salyr as K has it-which would be I
was told entirely deserted.  The camels did not turn up till a quarter to 2.    F. got them off at 2.15 and we left half
 an hour after.  The southernmost point is not Segh K but Seg (Say) Kalesi, said the Kaimakam and the other with him
who knew the hills.  He didn't know what it meant-it was a name.  There is      nothing to be got in Karapunar.  The fru
it, such as it is, comes from Eregli    and so do the uchinji cigarettes.  They fail to bring charcoal.  Very hot as we
set out.  All the way yesterday and today the fround was whitish with salt.     The barren low hills round Karapunar are
 all whitish.  I solved Sir W's         difficulty about the volcanoes.  There are two big ones, one quite in the
plain, the other Meke D, near the Karaja D between which and it are several     small ones hidden from Karadagh by Meke
D.  We rode three quarters of an hour   or so along the Eregli road, then turned to the right.  At the turn under a
little hill are the ruins marked by K.  Nothing visible but heaps of stones.    We went on along the Sahir road till I h
ad the good idea to ride up to the      hills and look for a yaila in the first valley which was where I wanted to be.
We found the Sahir yaila, Ikikoyu, lying on the bare hillside and rode straight up to it.  A most unpromising little hol
e of a place, the houses apparently     built partly of old stones.  But there was a beautiful .......... by which we
camped.  The camels came in at 5.45.  They didn't go badly.  All the hillside   covered with shih and the .... ....... o
f it as it did at Otamish.  I have seen
in the plain besides 2 kinds of dianthus, a pale pink and a ragged white,       something that looks very like ...gella,
 flame red and orange poppies, the      little insignificant whitish thing that makes a fine great seed, a pink clumpy
thing I don't know, yellow and pink thistles and the spindly aromatic thing,    besides a low bushy sort of plant with g
reen flowers.  Some others.  Saw this   morning enormous green beetles with black stripes as big as a mouse.  Directly
we got onto the hillside the ........ and the blue burrage began.  The scanty   crops are nearly ripe.  A great wind and
 thunderstorm just after we had got     into camp.  Showery later.
Monday July 1.  Light clouds lying low, Segh Kalesi wrapped in them.  I got off about 6.15 with one Aziz a gypsy.  I thi
nk they are nearly all Kurds in this    village but it is not the yaila of Salu anyway.  Yes it is-the order of the
villages is Sahir, Sirchale, Baghdaile (which is Aziz's village an hour below   here) and Kitshi Kyshka, marked by K.  A
ziz took me first to the euren W of the village where he showed me 2 sorts of octagonal, one having a cross and a
circle on two of its sides, and the remains of a church of which only the tie   arches of the vault could be seen.  Anot
her mass of ruins which he said was a   church contained a very rudely cut round stone column.  The sarcophagus in the
fountain at Karapunar came from here.  We rode up the hill onto a sort of       plateau where the oak scrub begins.  On
the hills on either side there were     ruined garden walls and one or two deserted yailas.  I saw in several places
remains of terracing for fields or gardens.  We went up the W side over a sort  of col from the top of which we looked d
own a valley into the Konia plain.  The hills on either side were to the N Diurt Sivri, a long ridge and to the S a
double peak, the N end called Larukyza and the S Kastel Kayasi.  Between them   at the head of the valley is a curious u
pstanding rock which I photographed.    Segh Kalesi rose steeply to the E, so steeply that we had to lead our horses
up.  We passed a sort of well at the bottom of which is a secret passage to the castle, now fallen in.  We got onto a so
rt of shoulder from which we saw the    castle wall above steep rocky ground.  ... was a boy with ..... from.......the
village just below us to the S.  I planned the castle as best I could in wind   and rain.  It has I think been rebuilt,
the lower part of the walls is much     better than the upper, which is indeed very bad, ... ......  is a bit of
moulding built into the walls of one of the S oblong chambers.  There are a     small church and tiny rock cut chapel to
 the W on the highest point of the      rock.  We took about 3 hours or a little more to get to the castle and I worked
on till about 12 when we came down onto the shoulder and lunched.  The rain had now stopped but it was not warm.  We rod
e down the E side onto a col between    Segh Kalesi and the mountains passing what I think must be the first big
crater.  Then we rode to the N past lots of terraced walls.  Turned round the   mountain to the E riding all along its .
... through oak scrub devoured by       caterpillars.  Above Ikikoyu but a little to the N is a fine spring, Kuyyak
they called it and further along is another smaller.  Lots of deserted yailas.  Aziz said the sheep had all fallen ill h
ere, died, the people had deserted the  high yailas and gone lower down.  A desolate view all the time over the salt
desert.  Honeysuckle.  It took us about 2 and a half hours to get into camp.    The tents are pitched in the bottom of w
hat I take to be the second big crater, Ouajib(Ovajik) is its name, a deserted yaila.  The crater is broken to the NW
and a valley runs down past a ruined church to Bagh daile.  Just above us to    the SE rises Mennek.  There is a Yuruk t
ent on the ridge below it, otherwise no
people at all.  I have Aziz and Elyas and the two camel drivers besides F and   Haidar.  There is a rumor of robbers who
 stole 5 of the ...... ....... here 3   weeks ago.  Our crater is full of springs-the Karapunar water comes from here.
It was brought by Sultan Selim.  Very lovely beautiful camp.  The flora seems   to be the same as in the Kara D but not
so varied.  I saw nothing new but the   honeysuckle.
Thursday july 2.  Off at 5.45 with Haidar and Aziz.  It was very cold and when  we climbed the lip of the crater we were
 met by a strong cold north wind which  blew all day.  The mares and the cattle were up there with 2 men.  We went
straight to the top of Mennek.  The castle is very rough work and there is      nothing to show that it is Byzantine.  T
he rock rises in platforms and these    have been taken advantage of in the fortification, which is also in tiers.
There are 2 enceintes to the N and W.  Inside the outer one there are small     parallel chambers.  All are built of the
 raw slabby rock laid by (I think there has not been earth between the stones) except what looks like a cistern in the
middle of the inner enceinte to the W and another carefully built chamber on    the extreme SW end of the inner enceinte
, possibly also a cistern or store      house of some kind.  These are laid with mortar.  The rock drops precipitously
to the S.  The natural rock rises to a point in the middle of the castle, or    rather to a small platform.  There is a
Moslim grave on the summit and 2 others said Aziz lower down.  We next rode on across a desolate cup shaped bit of
ground to Dagh Euren.  There was a deserted yaila and a few fields of meagre    crops.  Above DE to the E rises a rocky
hill on which is the fort, a simple     enceinte of very rude walls with a few chambers in the middle.  The central
one may have been a chapel but was so ruined I could scarcely tell.  It had a   good many interesting mouldings 3 crosse
s in niches on the W door lintel and a  lot of bits of a deep dentil cornice.  To the S and SE of it were a number of
ruined chambers with crosses on the lintels.  The castle is called Danwaring    Kalesi.  So down to DE.  At the extreme
SE end of the town is a large church    with vine scrolls over the S and W doors.  It seems to have had a narthex and a
polygonal apse.  Good mouldings. I saw no columns.  The stone work very good    inside and out.  The narthes did not see
m to have a W door.  Finely cut stones, the first layer of the barrel vault were in situ on the W wall.  There must
have been windows arched with a single stone.  To the W of the church stood a   large house square with 3 doors to the S
 with crosses on the lintels.  To the W another door with a dentil moulding.  The walls were immensely thick, near 2
metres, of undressed stones lined dry.  All the building of the town except the churches was of this character.  In the
middle of the ruins I found another     large church with round stone columns, acanthus caps and a dentil moulding near
the W door.  It was completely ruined.  I do not know if there was a narthex.   At the NW end was a small chapel with ro
und columns completely ruined, but I    could see the apse.  There may have been more churches for the town is large.
At the SW end is some sort of building which had narrow oval columns, not       double columns however.  By this time it
 was 10 o'clock and I decided to go on  to Kurshunju.  On the col below Mennek is a small ruin with a slab worked in
interlaced circles.  The first peak of the crater is Gechekale on which is a    small fort roughly built of small stones
-I did not go up.  We got to Kurshunju  about 12 and I at once saw it was a large cruciform with buildings.  Lunched
and set to work on it.  The ground plan is of the type of the Karadi cruciform.  There is no chapel however.  The attach
ed chambers are to the S and SW.  They
end on the S with a finely worked wall set on a sort of elaborate base          moulding.  There was a double arched doo
r into the chamber enclosed by this     wall, the arches resting on a double column which looked as if it had had deep
spirals on the round ends.  I saw the 2 keystones, one with a wreath and one    with a series of small Latin crosses so
arranged as to form on big cross.  All  these rooms had been added to the church, the walls were double.  The rooms to
the W were extremely rough, not of the same character at all.  No narthex.  The church walls were made of two ..... of f
inely dressed oblong stones, one inside and one outside, and a narrow layer of rubble between.  None of the wedge
shaped stones of the Karadagh.  The surrounding walls ran up to the rocky       summit of the hill and round the E side
and so up to the rocks again.  S of the church in this E wall was a large fine gate. A bit of dentil moulding lying on
the ground here.  Beyond it a very roughly built large square chamber with 4    columns 2 square ..... and 2 double colu
mns.  The walls very thick and great    jutting out bracket walls to take the arches.  A few very rough chambers to the
W of this big room.  There were 3 double columns lying along the ruins S and E  of the church.  I cannot think where the
y belonged unless they formed some sort of pergola.  On the lower ground to the E of the enceinte were some very rude
buildings, oblong chambers of uncut stones laid dry.  I saw from here the whole form of the mountain.  There are as I th
ought 2 craters.  Between the two is a  narrow plain in which there is a big lake-at the W end.  The S crater opens to
the E, the N (....., which is larger) to the W.  Sarijaghach, Arapdide, Kuyujah and Karasivri lie round the S crater, Ku
rshunju, Kubbay, Gechekale and Mennek   round the N.  N of Mennek begin the bare rolling uplands which rise behind Dagh
euren so that I could see no further, but I think they then fall in rolling     lines without any other crater.  My crat
er is about a mile across at the widest which is N to S.  At its N end the mountain is very narrow, dropping
immediately on the E side of the crater lip by a steep bare gorge into the      plain.  At Dagh euren the uplands must b
e a mile to a mile and a half across.   We came straight down into the S end of the crater and got into camp about
4.45.  I then drew out my church.  This is no doubt the great shrine of the     mountain.  A good day-several graffiti c
rosses cut on the church walls.         Elaborate stones at the angles of the cross where the vault sprang, breaking
the continuity of the moulding.  The cuckoo was shouting this morning.          Wednesday July 3.  Got off about 6.30 an
d rode down the valley.  On the way we  stopped and explored a large cave on the right hand side.  It was I think a
series of tombs.  The first chamber had loculi in it.  We went through a narrow passage some 5 yards long into a second
pitch dark chamber also with loculi,    one or two.  Another passage led from this chamber into a second entrance
chamber to the left of the first with loculi and a grave in the floor (opened).  It was all full of bats and horribly sm
elly.  The door ways quite plain.  A    little further down the valley there were ruins which Aziz called a bath.
Vaulted stone chambers, small.  The ruins went down to the very edge of the     river bed (dry).  Then we came to a numb
er of ruined walls and on the right     side the ruins of a church.  Only the SW angle remained, a high wall roughly
built with smallish stones set in mortar and buttressed up on the S side on     vaults.  A small horseshoed door led int
o the vault apparently on the W.        Everything else had fallen down the hill, down to the very foundations and
there was nothing to be seen but 2 bases of the vault piers on the SW inside    and fragments of the N wall.  I could no
t even see an apse and it may not have
been a church at all.  Lots of caves here, one said Aziz immensely large-you    can lose yourself in it.  So we came to
Baghdaile, Aziz's village.  In one      house there was a bit of Corinthian decoration on a stone.  Several churches he
said but all entirely ruined and the stones used.  Lots of fine dressed stones  in the houses.  I found an inscription.
 Fattuh and the camels went on and we   turned back to Sirchale for 2 inscriptions which we found.  The order of the
villages is this Satur, Sirchale, Bezerkhane, Baghdaile, Kechikyshla, Ubektash  to the W of the road, Ekizli.  K puts Ek
izli in the wrong place.  We rode on    under the cut which gradually flattened out leaving a long stretch of foothills
between us and the plain.  They were scantily covered with oaks growing to      quite a reasonable size and with very me
agre crops.  This was after             Kechekyshla.  At that village we found the master of a carriage (he lives in a
valley in the plain) an Armenian and ordered his cart to meet us tomorrow.  All the villages built of old stones.  I lun
ched under an oak after Kechekyshla and slept for an hour.  A delicious kite was screaming above me.  We got into
Ekizli at 1.45 and found camp pitched in a charming place at the N end of the   village under some trees.  Drew out all
yesterday's work which took some time   and had tea under the tree at my door.  Pleasant breeze, not at all hot.  I
forgot to say that there are a few juniper bushes in these hills.  Kayali is    lower down below the turbeh which I saw
from Kechikyshla; Ishekler is low down  NW of this place; Ekizli itself is quite wrong in K and he writes Sirchale
Derdjeh and Kaljali Kayaler.  The lake I saw from Kurshunju is called Dagh Gulu and the village below Segh Kalesi to the
 E is Kesmez.  It is not quite in the   plain, a low ridge lies below it-the plain to the E.  The village I saw
yesterday further along to the N is Akeuren.  K must have this wrong.  Beyond   it are Gejen and Bogeuren.  This last is
 Pehviren of K.  Still beyond is Kyzyl  Gedih which I have not seen.  K's Golli Viren is my Guleuren, or perhaps K's
Kileuren is this.  Near Kyzyleuren is Goibe and then Guteuren.                  Thursday July 4.  Off at a quarter past
6 and up to a village above Ikizli      where we found the people rebuilding what had been a church and turning it into
a mosque or something.  The name of this place was Adali.  I got an inscription (broken) in the church ruins and a mould
ing, noticed also a stone with acanthus decoration.  Above the church there was a large tank very carefully walled
round on 3 sides with fine dressed stones.  The villagers said this was old     work.  So down to Ikizli again where I g
ot 2 inscriptions and saw a fine        delicate bit of moulding, narrow lines broken at intervals with small circles
with crosses in them.  But it was in such a dark place that I could make        nothing of it.   So we rode on to Karaeu
ren, a great heap of ruins, one of      which was said to be a church-monastic-there was a big gravestone, broken,
with a Latin cross on it.  In a house, part of the chimney, I found an          inscription of which I took a bad rubbin
g.  Then we dug out a large stone which was said to be yazli but it had nothing but a big Latin cross on it.  They then
took me to the N end of the ruins to what they said was a church transformed    into a mukhzan.  There was a very rude s
quare pier capital in it and built into the roof 2 much defaced grave stones.  There were two euren higher up, Goleuren
and Bileuren, but they were said to be nothing but what I had seen in Karaeuren and I did not go.  We turned down out of
 the mountains and rode to Emir el      Ghazi which K calls Said el Ghazi confusing it I think with the Tekke on the
side of the Karajadagh opposite to it.  (I know nothing by the way about his    Emir Kazan).  Here I expected to see the
 tents but they were not there and we
heard that the camels had been seen going up the valley on the E side.  This    filled us with misgivings. It was noon b
y this time, blazing hot.  We thought   to lunch in the dirty porch of a deaf old man but Haidar asked if there were
not a better place in the mosque and the reply was "oh-oh' in a rising scale    "chak saouk."  So we went there and sat
in the porch of the mosque.  I          attempted at first to lunch on the hearse but was dissuaded by Haidar.  A
swallow dropped out of its nest and died on the pavement in front of me.  I     tried to get a donkey for Aziz but the v
illage was almost deserted the people   having gone to yaila and there was none to be found.  So at 12.45 we took a man
with us to hold the horses and climbed up to Emir el Ghazi Kalesi.  The last    part was very steep.  We scrambled up it
 over the ..... stones that had fallen  from the building above-apretty dangerous proceeding.  It proved to be nothing
but a castle of a not very interesting kind.  It faced almost east.  At the SE  end there was a square keep a long wall
running N with a small gate in it and   the wall continued on to the S.  All built of roughly dressed stones with
mortar, no decoration.  At the NE corner there was a good bit of wall with a    square bastion, mortar laid stones.  On
the W the wall appeared to be nothing   but very roughly built, very thick of undressed stones.  It ran round so and
joined the E wall.  At the S and SW were a good many very roughly built         chambers of uncut stone laid dry.  Above
 them a big tank of roughly dressed     stones with mortar, and above them against the side of the rocky summit a few
rude chambers built in a kind of semicircle, each of them, jutting out from the rock.  The corners of these and the othe
r chambers were rudely roofed with a    stone laid across or a bit of vault all askew to minimize I suppose the stretch
of ..... and earth roofs. On the hillside below the castle we saw one big       lintel stone with a cross on it.  So dow
n.  We had fortunately s.. the tents in a far mossy spot across the valley.  K makes the valley very narrow.  It is at
least 3 miles wide and absolutely flat as a board.  At the foot of the castle   hill (Kizil D) runs t~he direct road Fro
m Emir el Ghazi to Hrisama and there is here a kuyu on the road.  The tents were pitched at a yaila of Emire el Ghazi,
Chakallikuyusu.  Fattuh came out to meet us and tell us of his adventures, the  man I had sent with him did not know the
 way and the cart I had ordered had not turned up.  Got into camp about 4 very tired.  The camp was in a delightful
place as flat as a board.  The castle was just like hard mud with never a stone on it and absolutely nothing grew but th
e yansham which smelt heavenly.  Two    charming old Turkmans occupied the yaila.  There was an inscription in the
koyu.  Aziz said there were many at Boleuren on the further side of the         Karadagh but I gave them the benefit of
the doubt of being like the many others I had been promised that had all vanished as I drew near.  Above us stood the
last peak of the Karajadagh, Beshtepe?  which was said to have nothing on it.   The Karapunar camel drivers greatly desi
red to go home from here but as there   was no other transport I obliged them to come on.  Hot still evening very
beautiful after sunset.  Dined and to bed early.  F. has neuralia again alas.   Friday July 5.  Off at 5.  As I got up t
he sun came across the plain.  It did   not last however fortunately and the day was cool and grey with a lot of cloud
which was most lucky.  We rode near Arisama all across the yanshan covered      plain.  A little beyond it there is a lo
w line of hills.  We rounded this to    the W and came to a yaila of Arisama        where we found the people drawing
water with a donkey and a long rope at a very deep koyu for the sheep, which    presently came in flocks to drink.  The
old man who was superintending this
and who was delightful asked me if 15 pounds would buy a machine to draw it     with.  We passed another yaila a little
further on where there was also a koyu  and presently came to a dip in the ground at the bottom of which was a village
Obruk.  Here the camel drivers wanted to halt but we said No.  The smooth       yanskam plain had now ceased and we rode
 over rolling stony ground with a       little corn on it.  Left Haidar and Elyas with the camels and rode on with F
and Aziz.  We met some man pulling up the corn and asked them the way to        Karakapu which we had been told was the
nearest village and they oriented us    over a low spur.  We rode up it endlessly and at 12 came to the summit and
looked across a sort of basin with a village in it to Harrand.  We sat down and lunched and at 12.30 F rode down to the
village which we supposed to be         Karakapu and Aziz and I turned NW and rode up to the castle which stands on a
rocky point in the hill, Kechekalesi, a fine castle with a great hight wall,    much higher than usual, surrounding the
hill top.  We met a man there who told  us that the village below was not Karakapu but Chukurken which made us wonder
if we should ever meet the camels again.  In the castle wall but very high up   and much overgrown with lichen was a lon
g Greek inscription.  As we came down   we saw the tents.  The camels had got in about one, an eight hours' march and
their usual distance is 5!  We went down to the church (Callander's of the      photograph).  Much pulled about but I mu
st see what I can make of it.  By this  time it was 2.30 and I was tired so I came up to the tents and had tea.  There
seem to be no ruins on this side of the hill which is very bleak and without    water.  I never thought to have got so f
ar today.  We are camped just under     Hassan D and near the water.  Saw one bit of good moulded cornice in the ruins
below the castle.  It contained nothing but the usual ........  We left Injesu  to the N today.  F. told me all the tale
 of his marriage.  He was it seems very wild and always getting into rows.  His father said he must marry and settle
down-He said he didn't want to marry and refused to look at one girl after      another.  Finally his stepmother found Z
ekiyyeh and at once when he saw her he  fell in love with her.  Her people were very very poor but the father said he
wanted 200 pounds for her.  She was 14 and F 24.  The father was blind.  So F   went to the American doctor Antonio and
told his his own father was blind and   could he cure him.  the doctor said he was to bring him but he would take no
money because he used F's carriage so often, only 12 mejs for the pay of the    woman in the hospital.  F. put the old m
an into his carriage and brought him,   an operation was done and in a fortnight the man walked out seeing perfectly.
In return for which he gave F his daughter without any money being paid.  But F paid 50 pounds for her trousseaux and 30
 pounds for the wedding.  His sister is married to a very .... man, a mason, who earns 10 to 12 ps a day.  She has 4
children, 2 little girls earn 10 ps a week by embroidering handkerchiefs to put round the tarbush.  The man's earnings k
eep them in food, the wife and children have to make what they can for their clothes.  She is therefore very jealous of
Zekiyyeh who goes dressed in silk ......... worth 5 pounds and wears gold       bracelets.  F's view is that women shoul
d not have to earn money.  His wife     makes a little however by embroidery.
Saturday July 5.[ie 6th] Worked at the church here in the morning. It turned outto be particularly interesting and I suc
ceeded in getting the ground plan by    grubbing round in the makhzans.  the result was that I had to change all my
clothes when I got in.  I drew out the plan, lunched early and at 12 started    out with Aziz, Haidar and one Ali to see
 the euren to the east.  Ali turned out
to be a broken reed and we picked up a supplementary man on a donkey (alos Ali) on the way.  We went to Yazlikisle which
 was an indistinguishable heap of       stones; then to Karaeuren ditto; then to Eunish where there was a church-one
could see the outline of the apse and the line of the N wall-then to Ucheuren   where there had been apparently a large
Christian necropolis.  I saw one        gravestone with a Latin cross on it and many others either not dug out or
turned upside down (the people had been opening the graves but had found        nothing);  then to Changlikilise on the
hill above Ucheuren.  A church there    too, the apse visible and a little of the N and W walls.  Also a bit of the
usual dentil moulding.  Then to Uleuren.  Here the usual thunderstorm came on   and we waited some time in the oda enter
tained by a Greek merchant from Bor.    He showed me an inscription of which I took a rubbing, and we then saw 2
churches.  One was a basilica of the BBK type, very large, 9 or 10 arches in    the archade, of small span like 1 BBK.
A big apse probably horseshoed, all of  the fine masonry of these parts.  A large stone with a cross and two sort of
arcades below it built into the house wall.  The second I could not make out.   The apse was polygonal outside.  I could
 see no columns and it may have been a  cruciform for it seemed rather short.  I could see no narthex on the first
church but there probably had been one.  We got some large gourds or cucumbers  here.  On the way both out and back we p
assed through Karankapu.  I saw the     double columns and plain caps of a church, the caps merely adorned by carving
up the grooves of the double columns. (Wonderful light on Taurus after the      rain.)  In the graveyard near by there w
as a bit of dentil moulding.  The       columns of the Uleuren basilica were also double columns of the Hasan Dagh
type.  There are at Churkurken 4 big churches besides the one I measured and    one small single .......... chapel to th
e SE of it.  I could see the inside of  it with the apse but all was surrounded by big vaulted mahkzan and no details
were visible.  I think it was a chapel without columns.  There was a door in    the S wall.  The fleas simply swarm.  Th
e watercourse at my door ran water for  2 hours in the rain.  The water came down quite suddenly carying big stones
with it.                                                                        Sunday July 7.  Off about 6 with Haidar,
 Aziz and an old party called Hudar.    We rode NW over a stony shoulder of the mountain.  All quite deserted and the
lava streams clearly visible.  I wonder if this volcano was active at a much    later time than the Karad and for that r
eason there was no very ancient shrine  on top of it, therefore no Christian shrine.  It has the appearance of having
been much more recently active but the villages I visited yesterday must have   been built after all eruptions had stopp
ed for they lie at the foot of the      great lava streams.  We turned N and came to a yaila of Karajeuren with a koyu.
 Karajeuren was just below us.  On top of the shoulder above this yaila to the  N of it we found a small ruined church,
Chauderlik.  We got there after about 2 and a quarter hours.  I then measured and photographed it.  It is very rough
and irregular but the decoration rather elaborate.  Dentils etc.  The stone     work of the Hassan D type, large square
stones not thick at all, slightly       wedged, well ....., but not quite so carefully as those in the churches at
Churkurken and Uleuren.  Faced inside and out but the inside had been covered   with plaster.  A certain amount of build
ing round about, all very rough, uncut  stones laid dry, probably a little village.  The hillside below was terraced
for gardens.  We were now on the plateau out of which the cones rises.  They    all declare there are no more ruins on i
t.  Hudu had promised me a second
church but when we rode down to the place he said it was only sarech marech,    makhzan fulan and so it was.  Indistingu
ishable heaps of uncut stones, probably Christian.  He left us here, Kishlekoyak is its name, we rode down to
Karrajeuren.  Aziz told me there was nothing here but Fattuh who passed through said he had asked and had been shown the
 place where a church had been but it   had been entirely destroyed and on a hill above he saw the apse of a church,
nothing more.  A miserable little place all built of old stones.  It was bitt   hot with a hot wind and a horrid glare.
 We came down to Tashpunar where we     arrived about 12.30 and found Fattuh pitching tents under some trees.  I
lunched in my tent, drew out the church and slept a little.  Then had tea and   went with Elyas to see the caves on the
hillside.  They were mighty             uninteresting.  Thunder and a little rain.  Wonderful view of Hassan D, the
corn looking rather like Fuji from the lakes.  There was a church here, quite   destroyed, a few stones with crosses on
said my informant, and a fortification, very rough on top of the hill.  No transport but donkeys to be got here.  Very
bleak desolate sort of place.  Intolerable flies but the trees nice though few  in number.
                                        Monday July 8.  Elsa's wedding day.  We left early, off at about 6 with 7
donkeys, my two and 5 others.  Road at first very arid, then we began to go up  into the hills and corn and flowers bega
n. On a tepe, after 2 hours' going,     Fattuh caught sight of a ruin, so I rode up through deep corn and found a
charming little church, quite perfect.  Very good moulding round the apse; no   buildings round but what looked as if th
ey had been caves in the volcano and    rocks near.  2 stones had fallen out of the semidome and the relieving arch
over the W door had fallen in part, also there was a breach in the S wall,      otherwise no harm had come to it.  Very
interesting to see the way they fitted  the semidome onto the barrel vault which embraced it so to speak, rising one
course above it.  The barrel vault beautifully built, horseshoed.  A dentil     moulding ran all round the windows fitti
ng very awkwardly onto the arches.  At  the top of the hill over the corn, old vineyards.  So down and into a charming
plain lying at the foot of the mountain which was from here singularly          beautiful.  At the head of this plain we
 came to Karghun where there is a       mosque built of the stones of a church and lovely water and soon after caught
up the donkeys.  We then entered a stony little gorge which brought us at about 11 to Khalva Dere deliciously situated i
n a sort of cup and all trees and       gardens.  We camped in a little field surrounded by poplars and willows.  After
lunch I took one Omar Ali, Aziz and Haidar and rode up to Virensheher. An       enormous quantity of ruins built of larg
e undressed stones laid loosely         together.  I suppose there must have been mud between.  There were also a great
number of very carefully built little vaults quite shallow, sometimes set into  the hill sometimes clear, barrel vaulted
 (slightly horseshoed vault) with well  cut stones.  In the rude walls doorways with heavy uncut lintels.  We rode over
these ruins till we came to a place like a great amphitheatre, Hassan Dagh      overlooking it to the S.  On the western
 lip were 2 churches, the form a        cruciform, very large but only the corner piers and the important parts at all
carefully built.  The E and S arch were standing.  It came on to rain while I   was planning it and we took shelter in o
ne of the curious vaults, as ......, to the W of the church.  Dentils round the windows, mouldings scarce and poor.
The second was a one ........ church, curiously Gothic, with much stilted       windows and buttresses outside at the be
ginning of the apse.  Very thick walls
very rudely built, no decoration except a moulding round the apse and the same  on the buttresses a few feet above the g
round where they set in.  A door with a porch to the S and narrow windows awkwardly placed in a line with the outer
line of the porch.  No decoration on windows or lintels.  In the apse there     seemed to have been a window low down an
d others higher up.  The apse like the  first was polygonal outside.  A third church in the bottom of the amphitheatre,
the biggest of all but completely ruined.  The apse alone stood in fact,        polygonal outside.  To the NE another ch
urch not so large, polygonal apse,      completely ruined.  Most exquisite light after the rain, the whole site,
divinely lovely.  So we came down straight onto the village to our delicious    camp.  Had honey for tea, but old honey.
  The Greek priest came to see me, a    charming old man who knows every ruin in the hills and gave me the names of all
and directions to my guide for tomorrow.  Two storks and I think I heard        nightingales.  There is a church complet
ely ruined in the upper part of the     village.  There are 100 Christian houses here and 150 Moslem.  The Christians
are all Greeks.  They have built themselves a new church.  Heavenly place but   midgy.
                                        Tuesday July 9.  We set out at 3.0, Umar Ali, Elyas and I, to go to the top of
Hassan D.  The sun touched him when we had been gone a few minutes.  It was     quite cool.  Walked through the upper vi
llage and across a flat scrubby bit of  ground.  At 3.45 we found at the end of this a small walled monastery with a
chapel.  Roughly built, the walls with shallow pilasters outside, the church    apsed and with niches set in the SE corn
er, the wall making a little chamber on the S side of the apse.  To the W a small chamber and some traces of ruined
wall.  Planned it and left at 4.15, the sun just touching it as we left.  Then  up through oak scrub, not very steep and
 out onto the bare ground we found a    yaila and a ruin, Sutkilisasi, 4.55 to 5.35.  It was a sort of double church
with a lot of little irregular chapels attached, much ruined and difficult to   make out.  Here as everywhere the apses
were polygonal.  No decorated stones,   only a very poor moulding at the corners of the apse.  Lots of ruined walls to
the E and S .  We next climbed up the side of a very steep gully-we were in the shade nearly to the top but it was reall
y never hot all day-passing a small     yaila and at 6.20 we got to the top of the second shoulder as seen from below,
Boz Dagh and found a church and buildings there.  The church was rather better  built than the others, but there was no
decoration on the lintel and            practically no mouldings.  To the N a little chamber rudely vaulted so that it
looked round from the top.  Left at 7, after resting and eating a bite of       chocolate, and went up over great boulde
rs, pretty steep nearly to the col      between Hassan Dagh and Kuchuk Hassan D, past several small snow wreaths, then
turned W and went up over boulders under the big spur to the NE of Hassan D to  what I had thought of as the 3rd shoulde
r.  We reached it at 8.15 and from it   had again a good view of the ......  Stayed here about ten minutes and then up
to the col between Hassan D and the spur-we got there in 25 minutes-and so up   very small loose stones to the bottom of
 a big ......,  over some rocks and up  the cone by a path to the crater.  Walked round the inside of it and  came to
the mezer, which is said to be the grave of one Hassan, at 9.35.  The crater is scarcely recognizable as a crater it is
so much filled up; moreover one of the  summit peaks rises almost in it.  There are 3 big summit peaks, the one to the
S is I think the highest; one to the W above the mezer and one to the E above   the chapel.  We walked up to that and lu
nched there 9.45-11.   There was a good
deal of blowing cloud which hid the view at times.  The sun was hot when it     came out but the air quite sharp.  Not a
 rich flora on the summit, pedicularis, buttercups, forgetmenots, dandelions and a couple of little clustering white
alpine things.  I also saw Anemone alpina seeding.  Lower down a charming white daphne.  The chapel was very curious.  I
 did not see any traces of buildings    round it-probably this was too high up for a monastery.  The apse first rounded
and then square with a moulding running round the square part.  All the         mountain top is splintered and ruined so
 that if there was a Hittite            inscription it has long ago fallen down the hill.  We started off a a quarter
to 12 to go straight down the N face by a couloir but I presently found it was  a stone couloir down which big blocks mi
ght fall at any moment so we turned     back and reached the chapel again at 12.15.  Then we started by our former
route, but at the col turned across to the right, westward, down a nevi down    which big stones had rolled quite recent
ly, crossed the stone couloirs lower    down where they were wider, and so down and across great gullies to a church
which the priest had described as Yaghdebashinda.  We got there at 1.30.  It    was a very interesting cruciform with cu
rious niches on the N side, one covered with low reliefs, entrelacs mostly but I noticed a sort of rabbit in a
spandril, and the other with an inscription which only remained in part.  Very  rude, square with the corners with a sor
t of rough pendentives so as to bear    the domed vault.  They were connected together by doors sometimes arched
sometimes architraved; on one of the stones at the side of an arched opening    there was a cross roughly cut.  The pila
ster capitals at the corners of the     apse decorated with incised patterns; a most curious sort of variation of the
dentil on some stones; of the outside of the apse only the S side was .......   It bore a narrow double ......, arched,
not horseshoed.  Worked here till 3.30  and then down, across endless gullies, till we got to the oak scrub again.  We
passed quite near the khan and chapel and I went back to get a better           photograph of it.  So on and reached the
 tents at 4.45, very tired, too tired   for real enjoyment.  Every muscle ached-I had not walked for so long and I did
not sleep for some time.  Fattuh was keeping watch just outside my tent, we had had a would be robber the night before a
nd I had been wakened by three shots at him.  F. told me the Christians here are much makhlut.   Several Moslims have
taken Christian girls to wife, of which F much disapproves.  He added that the  Moslem women never married Christians.
These Christian girls turn Moslem but   continue on good relations with their Christian families.  One of the priest's
daughter's wishes to become a Moslem and marry a Moslem.  She had been sent     away to another village and is kept shut
 up there.  The priest brought me       honey.
Wednesday July 10.  The priest came to see me and he having told me yesterday   how poor he was I tipped him 2 mejs.  Se
nt Aziz away and took on Umar Ali.  He, Haidar and I got off at 6.30.  Umar Ali riding a mare which caused us endless
trouble and rode S over the lovely oak clad foothills.  We passed a small kale  on a steep rocky ...... .......-nothing
of note and so up and so to Sarigul, a  lovely yaila on an open bit of ground under Kuchuh HD.  We had passed a few old
ruins on the way up to it.  Here UA left the mare fortunately and we rode on to the little lake to the S where we found
a church.  Most delicious place.        Immediately under Kuchuk Hassan Dagh.  A great ....... of ...... was going on.
We got there about 9 and I planned and photographed the church.  No arches, but 2 double columns in the narthex.  Some t
races of ruined buildings to the N in
what looked like a small cistern attached to the N. side of the church near the porch.  The nave vault horseshoed, the a
pse apparently only stilted.  We left   about 10.30.  A great boulder had fallen into the apse and the stone falls from
the hillside have no doubt covered the buildings to the N.  Rode back to the    yaila and then down to a small cup of gr
ass in which there were euren-Kapuja    and saw a big cistern but no church.  At the further side the oaks began with
delicious ......... of grassy bottoms heavenly yailas but no water.  So down to Yenipunar.  There is a castle on the roc
k above it, Kartel Kale and a few old   ruins of some sort below-houses perhaps.  Got there at about 11.30 and lunched
under some trees by the ............  There had been a church here but it was   entirely destroyed.  I saw a double colu
mn near the mosque.  Off at 12.30 out   into the open, across rolling ground to Ikhrala-K calls it Irkhala and is
probably right.  It lies in a deep cup.  At the S end of it the river flows     under a great natural arch.  There are h
ere old baths-I could not go in because there were people inside-and in the rock 2 churches, one with a row of columns
down it, one double column to the E, they said it was a church but it had no    apse, just a square chamber divided by t
he arcade, now a mosque.  The other is  also a mosque. It had certainly been a church for the roof was partly cut into
low panels in each of which was a cross.  No apse but a wide niche, shallow,    with a series of shallow arches, in the
W wall.  The village is entirely        Turkman.  Below this village begins a most singular deep narrow valley with
hight perpendicular walls of rock on either side.  Caves and rock cut things in them.  UA said it went all the way to Ak
seran.  I was told there were lots of   rockcut churches in it.  They call it Irkhala Dere.  Over rolling ground, corn
to Gelvere.  At the entrance of the valley leading up to it a church and        monastery perched on a rock and below it
 a small ruined church not unlike Daile 6.  The monastery and church above have been entirely rebuilt (below near the
ruined church is a great rock cut chamber with 2 rows of rock cut columns and a raised divan at the end, a man said ther
e was a well in it)  but the            foundations and indeed the greater part of the church walls are rock cut and
said to be the original.  The apse is square and very deep-the walls entirely   rock cut.  They have roofed it with a do
me, I do not know if this was how it    was originally, in spite of its depth-it is square-it might have carried a
semidome.  No aisles.  The monastery consists of a long passage with some half  dozen cells opening out of it. All the f
oundations rock cut.  The very          monosyllabic Greek who showed us round said no one remembered the original dome
of the church and that there were two or 3 monks, now away.  So up a stream to  our tents which are pitched in a delight
ful poplar grove with a fine view of    the N. side of Hassan D.  Got in about 5 pretty tired.  I.  To whom does this
garden belong?  F.  To a priest sitti.  I.  Does he mind our camping here.  F.  He didn't say anything.  After an interv
al:  That priest is dead.  The village  is partly Greek and partly Turk, no Turkmans.
Thursday July 11.  Off at 6.30 with 2 Greeks and Haidar and rode over the hill  east to Sivri Hissar.  It is the little
point one sees from far off.  There is  a small castle on top and the village lies below to the east.  We went first
still further east down into the valley where I found a great church standing   all by itself with heaps of featureless
ruins round it.  It has the same ground plan as Chukurken and I think I can safely correct my plan of the latter from
it.  The nave had an aisle only on the N side, 2 double columns form the        arcade.  The nave and traansepts are bar
rel vaulted, the vaults not horseshoes.
 All the windows and arches and the apse are horseshoed.  No decoration over    windows or doors, a Greek cross in a cir
cle over the door lintels.  The ....    over the cross is octagonal, 4 sides broken by windows, 4 sides scooped out
into quarter vaults.  Above the octagon a round dome.  The dentil appears on    the upper member of the cornice outside.
  The column capitals were much         weatherworn and I could not make out whether they had been decorated but I
think not.  The chief difference from Churkurken was that the aisle vault was   lower than the nave, the W front coming
down in a steep gable.  I am not quite  sure about this but the photographs will show.  A penthouse narthes.  S of the
church a spring of good water with a sarcophagus shaped water trough by it.  I  then went into the village where I saw 2
 rock cut churches, one only 30 years   old made out of an old cave, the columns I understood recent.  Certainly the
decoration of the caps was quite modern, sort of ........  Higher up this was   another, half of it rock cut half built.
 the building recent.  This may have    been old but there were no interesting details.  Carved marble candelabra which
I photographed and not very old I think.  The priest lived in a rock cut house  of one room opening into a narthex with
3 arches.  They make the most excellent sort of dry kaimah here.  So back to my tents at 11.30 and lunched.  I started
out again about 1, went into the town and saw the great church of St. Gregory   Nazianzos.  It is a domed church of the
Silleh type-I ought to have planned it  but I did not partly because it has been so much rebuilt.  The apse is
octagonal outside.  The bare rock cut, then a few layers of old stone work and  the rest newer stonework.  The original
narthex seems to have been an open      porch of 4 arches.  The S wall is niched and looks old.  Inside everything is
covered up with plaster.  There are 3 apses, the central one has 3 ..... of     steps round it for seats.  A new chamber
 runs all along the N side so that one  does not see the old wall there.  The dome is very high, the tambour circular
and broken by windows.  4 piers support it.  The whole is I fancy as it stands  a much later type than Sivri Hissar.  Th
ey showed me a cross enclosed in a      modern silver case; they said the cross had been given by the Athos monks.  It
was found in a little iron box in one of the piers-no that was another cross.   I saw too the bones of St. Gregory.  The
n I went ans saw his house which is a   large cave of 3 chambers.  There is some horseshoe niching outside.  Inside the
roof is decorated with panels and crosses and the walls with panel niches.      There was a well, now dry in the first c
hamber.  They said the water came from  the monastery.  The Greek women were an awful nuisance.  All these people speak
Turkish, scarcely any of them know Greek at all.  I then went to the monastery  which is in a beautiful rocky valley.  L
ots of rock cut rooms with steps        leading up into upper rooms high up in the rocks.  I noticed in a chapel here,
said to be 690 A.D. as in the one at Sivri Hissar that the nave has only one    aisle, to the N.  This is so like the bi
g churches at Sivri Hissar and          Chukurken that I planned this chapel.  There is also another little chapel, the
Panagia higher up the valley.  It is a dome resting on 3 engaged piers and a    fourth pier, the NE which stands clear a
nd allows of a little chamber by the    apse this way                 a door at the SW leads up to an upper chamber
with a little raised room at one corner and tiny windows looking out onto the   wonderful rocky valley.  The spring here
 is said to be the best water in        Gelvere.  I ought to have done more work here but I went.  Back to my tents
about 5-drew out some of the Hassan Dagh work.  Delicious evening.  This place  was the country estate of St. Gregory.

Friday July 12.  Set off at 6 with Haidar and Nicoli and rode for 1 and a       quarter hours to Irkhala Dere lower down
 than Irkhala.  At the bottom we found  the village of Pelisrama, Turkman, and hunted out an agreeable old man to show
us the churches.  He took us a little lower down where on the right bank we     found a great church carved in the rock,
 Alakisle.  It was a cross with 5       domes, one in the middle and 4 at the corners.  It had been frescoed and there
were traces of red and white stucco work on the outside which was decorated     with horseshoed niches.  The small arche
s were all horseshoed inside, not I     think the big arches.            This was its plan.  To the S there was a long
chamber with what looked like stalls for horses and the same to the N together  with many rock cut rooms big and small a
ll round.  Then we went back to the     village and upstream for about a mile to a built church they call Ilankisle
standing under the cliff.  A great boulder had destroyed the S wall and the W   end.  It is of the type of Yagdebash muc
h niched outside, 3 apses, niched       outside, a very high dome in the middle but the corners barrel vaulted.  Much
frescoed-the Virgin prominent.  8 pointed stars appeared on the outer walls and high up above the windows were two small
 panels with a dove and a lion on them.  Brick work in the window arches.  A very lovely place.  I planned it quickly.
At about 9 we set out again, the ........... saying it was 4 hours to           Changlikilise and 3 on to Akserai.  We r
ode to Changlikilise in 3 and to        Akserai in 2, but we went fast.  It was bitter hot.  We left Eskinez a little
to the left and saw Cheltik a little to the right beyond.  From here we rode S  and round the corner of the hill soon ca
tching sight of the church.  The hill   is topped by a cliff all of which is honey combed with rooms and caves.  The
dome is very high.  2 of the ........ piers have been knocked down-on purpose   said Nicoli, the dome will not stand lon
g.  Brick work in parallel lines on the outer walls and round the arches of the narrow windows.  The parallel lines are
also inside but can only be seen where the plaster has fallen away.  Bricks     inside over the windows.  All the window
s very much ........  An apsed chapel   to the N with a narthex continuing the church narthex, all this at a lower
level.  One dome, the rest barrel vaults and semidomes.  The narthex opens at   the N end into small rock cut chambers.
 I think this chapel was a later        addition for niching appears on the N wall of the church inside the chapel
narthex and the narthex is built over it.  Similarly in the chapel.  East of    this chapel is a big vaulted chamber run
ning N and S ending at the N in the     rock.  Below the church, S, are many rock cut chambers, very large and running
far into the hill.  These continue to the W and one of them is a 5 domed        church.  Further on a carved facade (hor
seshoe niches) with a mass of           columbaria.  I lunched and we set to work and got through in 3 hours, a great
business in that heat.  There is a good spring lower down the hill below the    church.  We rode straight down to a tiny
 village on the edge of the plain-the   larger part of the same village is up under the cliff a little W of the church.
 At the bottom we saw Akserai far away, all set in gardens.  It does not seem   muce inside abut the gardens are delicio
us at this time of the year, the        the grapes ripening and the maize flowering.  In the plain all the people were
reaping their corn, Hassan D watching over all.  We rode almost straight to our camp by dint of a few questions.  It was
 pitched below the town by poplars and  willows near the stream.  There is a mill here and a stork's nest in the
willows.  Pretty tired.  Tea and a cold bath and dinner and so to bed.  Saw the new moon 2 day's old.

Saturday July 13.  Hot with a little air.  The stork was walking through the    hay field next top my tent this morning
and a kite is screaming above.  Tired   still and not hungry.  So I stayed in my tent all morning and drew out
churches.  It was exceedingly hot.  After lunch I rode into the town and called on the kaimakam who asked me what school
 had sent me out.  I then went to the   mosque opposite the Konak Karaman Oghi Jami and defeated the curious eyes of
the town by taking refuge in the minaret while the key was being brought.  The  facade of the mosque has been rebuilt bu
t inside it is splendid with ...... of  columns and great arches, rows and rows of them.  A very fine minbar I should
think of the time, like the Egyptian, but the patterns freer.  We then rode to  the stream and crossed a charming old br
idge of 2 arches from which we had a    delightful view with a broken minaret in the foreground-Seljuk, but the mosque
has fallen down and been rebuilt  So on to the Tekke of Baba Yusef Hagigi (       ) -Sarre wrongly calls him Hashishi.
The Tekke stands on one side of the     street and the little mosque on the other.  A rushing stream flows down the
street-very peaceful and charming with willows and poplars.  Of the Tekke       nothing of the interior decoration remai
ns and the outside is quite plain.  In  front of the mosque is a ruined vestibule of pillars and arches.  Inside it is
much fallen into ruin but the mihrab is fine with elaborate stucco stalactite   work.  We rode back to the river-it is t
he Beyaz Su and over another old        bridge, one single arch.  They were rebuilding an old ruined mosque on the
other side, nothing of the original remained.  So to the splendid Medreseh of   Ibrahim Bey, 4 square with 4 deep niches
 one for the door and 3 others all      elaborately ..........  Moreover the plain outer walls were magnificent pieces
of building, showing even more than the decoration the hand of the great        builder.  Certainly the Seljuks stand in
 the front rank of them, together with  the Moguls and the Mamelukes.  So back to my tents.  The Kaimakam returned my
call very opportunely as we could not get so much as a tata arabasi for our     journey tomorrow but he intervened and w
e secured two.  Very warm night.  Early to bed and a little rain in the night.  Hassan D puts his fine head ..... ...
... .... ... ....... poplars and willows of the gardens.                        Sunday July 14.  For the first time in m
y life I forgot it was my birthday.     Haidar and Elyas went off with the horses and donkeys at 2 am.  Fattuh and I
and the carts got off at 5.20.  We packed all the loads into one and filled the bottom of the other with rugs and things
.  It had no springs and was I must say uncommonly jolty. However we scarcely ever went beyond a foot's pace. In about
3 hours and a half we came to Akserai, a ruined khan, a .... ...... enclosure   it seemed to be, with alternately round
and polygonal bastions all round the    walls.  Half an hour further we came to a well where we stopped to water the
horses.  Here we lunched it being 10.30 or so.  F. discussed the Moslem         religion and said that it was       .  H
e told me of an old madman who lived in Aleppo and never wore a stitch of clothing.  The little boys used to make fun
of him by asking him the time, to which he invariably replied "12 o'clock" that being the only number he knew.  They nic
knamed him Abu Ethnashr.  Last year he  died and the Moslems made a tremendous fuss about his funeral.  He was to be
buried in Azizieh but as they went there suddenly the procession stopped and    they cried out "He wishes to fly, he wis
hes to fly" ie to Heaven.  Then it was  decided that he did not wish to be buried in Azizieh and they took him to a
place near the ...... where they said his mother was buried and there they laid him.  His tomb has become a sacred place
.  "Sar nebi" said F and added "We
don't turn madmen into prophets, we laugh at them."  Also he told me of the gun in Baghdad that refused to go to the war
, but in the middle of the battle the   Sultan's soldiers saw it appearing all by itself and it let itself off and
defeated the enemy and then returned to its tower.  Since when it has been      fastened down by chains lest it should e
scape again and people come to visit it and tie bits of rug onto it.  "Sar nebi" said F and "We don't believe in such
things".  It was extremely hot.  Almost no cultivation, an open waste mostly    covered with yanshan.  We hurried on a l
ittle and got to Sultankhan at 1.15 or  so.  It is a most magnificent place, the prince khans.  I hastily photographed
it.  The great inner vaulted chamber is superb.  We met our horses and donkeys  here and all went on together about 2, t
he other cart having come up by then.,  There is a village above the khan but most of the people were in yaila.  At
3.30 we got to Eskekaya Khan where there are a couple of khans, and good        springs of water.  We camped in a grassy
 place with a good view of all our      journey in front of us,  Hassan D and the Karaja D.  Hot still evening, the men
did not put up their tent.  F's youngest sister was married at 15 to a mnan of  35-too old they thought but it was her o
wn wish.  They have one child and are   comfortable off.  He makes 3 mejs a week and she 3, they own their horse and
their expenses are not more than 3 mejs a week.  If you want to borrow money    the interest is very high.  When F's you
ngest sister married he wanted to give  her a present and had no money so he borrowed 3 pounds and paid 3.10 pounds for
it after 4 days.  His eldest sister who has 5 children, borrowed some money     from him and has not returned it to this
 day.  His father borrows from him and  never returns it.  The first year he married he lost 22 horses and got 60
pounds into debt.  Everyone said Zekiyyeh had the evil eye but he said it was   from God.  He intends to open a shop whe
n he returns to Aleppo.  He has had     enough of driving.  He is never at home and the work is too hard.  All the
plains barren now.                                                              Monday July 15.  We started at 4.15 this
 morning by Fattuh's time and got to    Akbash Khan at a little after 2, having waited about one hour on the way for
the horses to lunch-there was nothing of interest except a completely ruined    khan (marked in K) and the village of Ob
ruk with its round lake.  My arabayi    Muhammad Agha said the lake was so deep that if a boy fell in and sank you
could see the bubbles and circles for half an hour rising while he sank to the  bottom.  It was very hot indeed-Fattuh m
ade a little fire when we lunched and   heated my chicken and mutton for me which was very acceptable.  We
subsequently, just as we got into Boz Dagh met a chirche with his cart, he was  a vegetable chirche and we bought apples
 and apricots from him.  At the summit  of the pass there is water.  The khan lies about half an hour below at the
bottom of the hill under Katranji Belli.  Blazing hot when we got in.  I drew   out all the rest of my work amidst intol
erable flies.  When the sun sank and    the little moon appeared it was quite delicious in spite of the barren
desolation of the hills and plain.  We can see the Konia hills from here.       Tuesday July 16.  We were off at a littl
e after 3-it was quite cool.            The sun struck the hilltops just as we started but it did not become hot
till seven or eight.  A little cultivation in the plain soon after the khan,    then it stopped and did not begin again
till we were almost into Konia.  We     came in by the Tekke and went to a khan where we left the carts and F and I got
into a Victoria and down to the Consulate.  Got there about 10.30.  The Wylies  asked me to stay, an invitation I accept
ed with joy.  Sat talking and reading
letters till lunch, then washed and dressed.  Mr. Callander, Prof. C's brother  appeared and a dull man who is with them
 Kennedy by name.  We all sat out in    the garden.  Had tea.  Loytved also appeared and stayed to dinner.  Captain DW
very bad with indigestion and .........  He went to bed before dinner.  Loytved stayed talking till 11.  So gladly to be
d but found indoors very stuffy.        Wednesday July 17.  Went down to the hotel with F to see about my things and
called out Prof. Callender who sat talking to me while F packed.  He had had a  very hard fortnight in the hill country
west of Silefke and little to reward    him.  After lunch we went through great perturbations because F's tesdereh to
C'ple was refused.  I telegraphed to Fitzmaurice and Ferid.  Loytved came in    and Prof. C and a nice Mr. Sackville Wes
t who is in the Debt.  He is going to   Adana tomorrow.  After tea Loytved and I went off to see the site of the great
church of St. George which seems to have been an immense cruciform.  They have  dug down in places about 15 feet and tak
en away all the stones. Only two bits   with fine classical mouldings on them were to be seen.  But the old Turk who
was in the neighbouring house planned the walls as they were uncovered-before   the stones were taken away and showed th
e plan to Loytved.  It was a true       cruciform of immense size.  The nave went on under the street.  Further to the
W is a little Seljuk mosque who probably accounts for the destruction of the    church.  But L told me he came down duri
ng the diggings and found Hellenistic   potsherds and glass fragments (one glass jar whole) and Moslem faience all
together.  He got his heads from here.  There is an inscription about ........  Vulpius whose head L. had got.  The head
s probably came from a ...... which was destroyed to build the church.  To the N in a garden are some very interesting
capitals, one of the true square ....... form, one Corinthian, and a bit of     round column L. thinks there was a chape
l here.  Came back and found Prof C     still in the garden.  We all sat talking of the true aim of education.  After
dinner talked long to Captain DW of things and people and he told tales of      China and of the Mad Mullah expedition-b
oth episodes reflected little credit on the man who led our troops.
Thursday July 18.  Went out carpet buying with Mrs. W and Trad and bought some  delightful killims. After lunch Mr. Call
ander turned up and stayed to dinner.   A nice French engineer came in to tea.  He had been out here 2 years and came
straight out from Paris.  He says the Europeans on the line are too few and too hard worked.  It's almost impossible for
 them to get leave. He talked of the    Beysheher irrigation scheme which seems to be on the eve of being carried out
and of a plan to rebuild and revive the Seljuk baths at ........  Captain DW    and I went to Miss Pe...  house (it is M
iss Gerber's but she is away) and saw   in her garden an interesting stone, a double arch of a double window carved
with peacocks and entrelacs.  It came from the ruins of the Seljuk palace near  by but is certainly Christian.  Also a b
it of a round column.  All the round    columns in the mosque of Ala ed Din are round by the way.  Trad came in very
late and stayed till 8.15 when we dined.  I went to bed after dinner to pack    and make ready for tomorrow.
                                        Friday July 19.  Off by train to Eregli-a lovely bright cool early morning.
Very delightful going all round Karadagh. We got to Eregli at noon.  All the    line of the Karajad opposite and Hassan
D in the distance. Very hot.  I lunched in the train just before we arrived.  Found a yaili waiting for us and drove
off to Ivriz.  The indescribable beauty of the valley came to me all afresh.    We gathered nuts and apples by the way,
neither quite ripe.  The road bad, we
took 2 and a half hours and had to have our things carried down to the Hittite  rock.  Here we camped by the edge of the
 stream with the little canal behind    us.  Deliciously cold.  We put up Captain DW's little tent, I had some tea and
went off with 2 men one of them Hajj Hassan to see the other sculpture.  We     went straigt up the hill to the W and dr
opped into another deep narrow rocky    valley.  On the col there is a sticking up rock with a Byz castle upon it.  The
walls on the W and N, square buttresses with rooms inside them, a makhzan for   water and perhaps a few roughly built ro
oms inside it.  On the opposite side of the valley, high up, is a great natural arch, Kapujik.  The valley they call
Ambarderesi or Hammamli Dere.  We went up it a little way-the whole walk was    only half an hour and came to 2 building
s.  That on the left (E) is called      Oglanlar Seraya, on the W Kyzlarseraya.  Both are churches.  On the W face of
the rock, lower down and a little to the S of the church is the Hittite         sculpture-very much worn-I doubt if it w
as ever completely finished.  Exactly   the same as the other.  The King's figure best preserved.  His right hand
saluting as in the other.  The God's legs and pointed shoes, the peak of his    tunic between the legs and his bearded m
itred head quite clear.  I think there  is no inscription.  One can also see the long staff like ends of the corn sheaf
and the right arm lifted across the body.  The whole is about 10-20 feet from   the ground.  The surface has been prepar
ed, one can see the arch like outline   of the plaque on which it is cut.  The W church is merely a ....... wall
protecting a cave.  It has a rounded bastion in it which forms inside the apse;  the cave runs back to a wall partly bui
lt, partly of rock.  The built part is  the E point of an oblong chamber roofed gable ..... the S side cut out of the
rock, the N built.  N of this chamber the cave continues at a higher level with some natural niches in it.  The E church
 has its apse cut out of the rock.  The apse itself contains several little niches and there is an apsed niche to the N
of it backed by a bit of red stone.  Bricks in some of the apses.  Fresco in    the main apse and to the S a sort of pas
sage, but the W wall has fallen, runs   along the face of the rock into another sanctuary, rock cut on the E and S
sides, possibly walled to the W.  A rounded wall runs out W between it and the  church.  The whole has been built on sus
taining walls and vaults most of which  have now fallen.  In the N wall is a narrow window high up, niched on the
outside.  Further along the face of the rock, N, is a cave the entrance with a  small square ........ door cut in the ro
ck with a r...... rounded porch over    it.  We lit a candle and went in about 50 yards.  The entrance seems to have
been plastered inside.  The whole is natural with great stalagmite and          stalactite columns in it.  We went till
we came to a drop about 25 feet deep    with apparently a deeper hole at the bottom.  The sides were smooth and
slippery with ooze.  We could see the passage continuing on the further side.   They say it goes through to the farther
side of the hill but this must be pure  invention for no one has been.  They say you can see its opening at the other
side.  At the entrance of the cave to the N is a small rock cut basin in the    cliff, possibly for holy water.  The wal
ls of a small chamber further along to  the NW.  In the valley were hollyhocks, delicious geraniums and a sort of thyme
and the yellow accacia.  They say in spring the hills are full of flower.       Returned by the way we had come and saw
a church on the further side of the     Hittite rock by the stream, further N.  The masonry her as in the other
buildings is of small roughly squared wedge shaped stones and rubble.  Dined    under the cherries and walnuts by the Hi
ttite sculpture, watched the moon come
out and shine on the water, bathed in the ice cold canal and so to bed.         Saturday July 20.  Off at 6 and up to th
e other valley where I planned the      buildings.  We went up right up the valley this time.  The church stands so to
speak at the entrance of it.  Higher up there are a few crosses cut on a rock,  3 this shape           evidently by pilg
rims.  When the valley turns S and runs up into the hills the rocks come close together.  Hajji Hassan said "This is
the gate".  No doubt it was so thought of.  Our horrible arabaji refused to     stay the night here and went off leaving
 us in the lurch.  Fattuh very bad.     Great difficulties about transport-finally we got off because another cart came
for us.  Many adieus to my friend Hajj Hassan Ali Kavass Oghi.  Lunched at the  station and near had trouble with the po
lice because F's teskerah was not       vised.  He told me of an Arabaji at Aleppo who had 7 wives and from 18 to 20
children.  He could not remember whose child each one was but as he sat in the  ......  and the sons came up for money a
sked each in turn.  He has 7 houses and sleeps by turn one night in each.  The religion of the Moslems was women and
food and they were arzak than the Christians.  Travelled from Karaman with the  Kaimakam.  A kavass and Mr. Callander me
t me and I went straight to the         consulate.
Sunday July 21.  Mainly spent in trying to get F's teskerak, impossible owing   to their being no answer from Aleppo.  T
rad and Loytved came in to tea; Loytved told us about his Karaman history from .... for 2 centuries.  50 years after
Barbarossa.  The story of Karaman the first prince seems to have been a great   romance.
                                        Monday July 22.  A refusal came this morning from Aleppo after we had
telegraphed to Ferid.  But the Vali promised to vise the teskerah to Ismidt.  I wired to the Embassy but the thing was d
elayed and at night came back to us and had to be sent again.  Captain DW and I went to the bank and talked out of
window to a Muhayyir who gave us an account of his country east of the Crimea   which was like a great poem in strophes:
  The grass and the spring grass grow   waist deep; the water flows from the hills and the horses go down to water; the
trees cast deep shadow over our houses-here there are none.                     Tuesday July 23.  Capt DW;s birthday.  M
rs. W and I went out and measured the   church of St. Amphilochius. Amphilochius was supposed to be a friend of the
first chelabi but was in reality many centuries earlier.  Much rebuilt and      pulled about.  Sent a man to Fitzm. sayi
ng I was starting tomorrow.  All Konia  came in to tea to congratulate Captain DW including the old Socrotines whom I
had not seen.  After dinner we sat talking in the garden till near 12.          Wednesday July 24.  The DW's got up to s
ee me off.  A long day to Eskisheher.   No telegram at Afion and none at Eskis.  I found then Mr. Callander who sat
with me while I dined.  Mme. Datia most friendly.                               Thursday July 25.  An equally long day t
o Haidar Pasha. Slept most of the       morning.  At Hamidieh there got in a fat and cheerful Turk who turned out to be
the Vali of Konia's brother.  He is Kaimakam of Adabazaar.  He insisted on      standing me lunch at Ismidt.  We were ve
ry late at Haidar Pasha.  I found there a kavass and the officers of the ...... and letters and we got through all
right.  F's passport had been taken away at Pardik.  Letters too.  Went to the  Pera Palace.
                                        Friday July 26.  Took F. to see Dr. McClean and left him in the hospital.
Then rushed out, bought a hat, dressed and went to Beshiktash to meet Sir N who had already gone so I drove on to the Se
lamlik and sent up my card.  Mr.
Fitzmaurice came down to meet me and took me up to the Ambassadors' room where  I found Sir N more than friendly-4 Jap o
fficers were there whom I made          Fitzmaurice introduce to me.  Sir N. introduced Nejib Melkame.  All very
amusing.  Back to the hotel to lunch and pack and so to Topkhaneh, but the      ...... was not there.  Sat on H.........
 for some time till appeared and took   me up to Beshik Pash. Half way up we met Sir N coming down and I was
transferred.  So up to Therapia. Lady O'C was in bed with migraine so we had    tea and went off to the polo.  then I me
t Mr. Leischmann and Mr. Butler, also   Woods Pasha and others. Pleasant dinner with the O'Cs.
Saturday July 27.  On to Constantinople early, saw McClean and did a lot of odd jobs.  Back to lunch and at 3 onto the I
mogen and off to Prinkipo.  Very        pleasant.  No one on board but Captain Taylor, the doctor and Mr. Hodgson.
Anchored off Prinkipo and Sir N and I went for a walk and called on the         Pearses-he was away.  Izzet has a big ho
use here.  Bridge till midnight.        Sunday July 28.  The O'Cs went to mass and I sat on deck.  Christich, the
bastard sone of Milan came to call.  He is Pretender to the Persian throne.     Miss Pears and her brother came on board
 and we steamed down to Guebze hoping   to see Hamdy but he was away.  Awfully hot.  Wind got up later pretty strong.
Bridge again.                                                                   Monday July 29.  Came in very early by s
teamer-an awful crowd of people.  Sent  a note to Fitzm and went to the museum where I saw Edhem Bey and Khalil Bey.
The ......... is not near .....  Mr. Butler appeared on the scene staying here.  Fitzmaurice came to lunch very late.  W
ent to see Fattuh after whom I          found very restless!  Fitzm did not contrive to come to tea as we had
arranged-boring.  Callander appeared.                                           Tuesday July 30.  Mr. Fitzmaurice came a
t 9 and we went to Ferid Pasha's-he was most agreeable.  Talked of the irrigation scheme and the Egerdir boats, of
Fattuh, Nejd and Ibn Sabah.  I went back to the Embassy and Fitzmaurice told me the Aden tale.  Mr. Graves came in.  Fit
zm lunched with me, we went to see      Fattuh, I to the Museum and he to the Porte.  He then picked me up and we came
back and had Messerschmid to tea. Then to the Embassy garden and talked till 7.  Wrote many letters after dinner.
                                        Wednesday July 31.  Did lots of business.  Lunched with Hamdi at
Kurucheshme-Mr. Butler, Mr. Ouseley were the other guests.  Edham Bey is going  to marry the daughter of the Turkish Amb
assador in Paris;  he hurried off to    see her after lunch.  So up to Therapia.  Went to the cricket with HE and met
Colonel Surtees with whom I had a long talk.  Count Pallavicini dined; the      Leischmanns, Mr Fitzm and Mr Lambton.  B
ridge.
Notes at end of journal:                                                        Maden Sheher.  Daris:Life in Asiatic Tur
key                                          An octagonal tower with 3 projecting chapels and a projecting ante chapel
or porch.  In the upper part of the tower are small arched windows one in each  side.  The arrangement of the windows be
low is 3 in the vaulted apse at the     east, two at the NW and SW angles of the octagon.  There are 3 doors, 2 small
on N and S, 1 large on W.  The roofs of these chapels and of the towers are     stone cupolas.  Below the roof of the to
wer there had been a false ceiling;     some of its rafters still remain, projecting from the wall inside in a circular
form.  They were of wood. ...                                                       Near it are some masonry tombs and s
ome sarcophagi.  One of the tombs is
built of great hewn stones, measuring 12 ft 3 in X 2 ft. 10 and a half in. and  in breadth 1 ft 5 in.  The interior has
a large shelf running round it and is   lighted by 2 windows very small and narrow outside and widening within, and it
had a square entrance;  the roof considted of a series of slabs 12 to 14 ft     long.
                                        ....A church of a very strange form built on an eminence about 400 ft above the
village.  It consisted of a stone vaulted apse having attached to it a          pentagonal screen on arches;  outside th
is is an exterior wall with small       arched windows and the space enclosed between this and the interior screen is
in 2 stories which have small square windows looking inwards.  This outer wall  forms a figure of 13 sides, the W door b
eing in the 13th side.  There is a      small door to the N of the large door and just below the cupola of the apse are
4 small square windows which give light to the interior.
                                             $T sagh 100p                          Fattuh $15 a month
       churuk176p                          service with 3 counted from 3 weeks
      before Sun April 7.                 Smyrna 70 pounds = 77 Turkish pounds     In Smyrna gave Fattuh 1 Turkish
  60 Turkish pounds in my belt.                      pound
   In Konia gave Fattuh 6 Turkish                                                           pounds
  3 Kurds 3 days' work on May 23 inclusive