Spoleto Sunday. (February 1910) Dearest Mother, You see I have begun my travels and I wonder if there is anyone more supremely contented. I got here at 3 in the afternoon, deposited my luggage at the hotel (in an immense room with a tiled floor) and went out to see the town with the help of an excellent little guide book given me by Delbruck. As it is great festa, things are apt to be shut, so I did not go very far afield, but contented myself with learning the town by heart and knowing where things are for tomorrow. There was indeed enough to satisfy anyone - Roman arches, city gates, a polygonal wall going back to Etruscan times, a heavenly duomo with a Lombard front, a Renaissance porch and frescoes by Filippino Lippi in the apse - and then the delicious little town with steep and narrow streets clmibing up to a splendid 15th century fortress where I sat at sunset and saw the light fade from valleys and close encircling hills. The most interesting churches are outside the town - I shall go out with the lark tomorrow and work at them. It was a heavenly morning in Rome; Eugenie and I, to console ourselves for my departure, drove out together to see the Arch of Constantine, after which she took me to the station, bless her! Yesterday I had an active morning seeing churches - fortunately with Mme de Filippi and in her motor. We took with us Haseloff and Sir F. Pollock who had turned up and I got some interesting problems with regard to the Emperor Constantine finally solved. Sir F. and I lunched lunched with the Filippis and at 2 o'clock we met Eugenie and a charming Italian archaeologist called Pinza at the Palatine and to our immense delight he ....... the whole dispositin of the palaces and temples and nothing stands where it was before. Miss van Deman (who was also there) and I were well pleased, for Pinza's views coincided with some curious facts we had observed. Then I returned to the Pension where Uncle Frank and Sybil picked me up and we drove onto the Janiculum, whence the view was even more lovely than when Father and I were there, because the trees were coming out. His Ex. was delighted, dear old thing. then I went to tea with Percy Loraine. Nor was that all, for after dinner Eugenie and I went to the Baths of Caracalla, by special invitation from Ricci (who is the head of all antiquities in Italy) and there met him and a few other people and looked at the Baths under a full moon. They were superb. I think I never saw anything so large, nor yet so solemn. One of the invites was a charming Italian soldier called Colonel Morris (Father will perhaps remember meeting him at the Filippis) whom I like very particularly, so that it was all delightful. On Friday I saw churches with the usual party, heard an interesting lecture of Gilbruch's and had some talk with him at the Institute (very valuable) and after lunch walked by himself in Campagna looking at tombs - heavenly it was. There now, goodbye. I must dine. Your affectionate daughter Gertrude I was dreadfully sorry to leave Rome 1 February Rounton Grange (??1910) Dearest Mother, Here they are and I return the key. I'm so glad to hear that the play is going well. As for me I am so busy with the Euphrates that I have not time to think of anything. This chapter is immense, however you look at it. I should PARTICULARLY like to go to the play on Sunday and I should be very glad to go on Monday too, if there is a ticket to spare, but if you are short of them it would be better to send someone else. But I must see the 1st performance Your affectionate daughter Gertrude Hotel Bristol Rome Friday (28 February 1910) Dearest Mother, I must send you my congratulations upon the prosperity of the play. I wonder whether you will make any changes in the cast - some of the parts I suppose will still be played by the same people. I have decided to stay on here another week with Eugenie. I have got a very nice room in her pension. But I shall miss Father dreadfully. We have had the most enchanting ten days together and I hope he has enjoyed them as much as I have. He is such an ideal companion. With the archaeologists he is in his element and he disconcerts the learned by extremely pertinent questions! but they are all delighted with him and I think he puts them upon their metal and that they are far more interesting when he is there. We have made several bosom friends. One is a nice plain little American woman who is studying brickwork - we considered every separate brick in the Forum with her one morning and it was certainly most interesting. I love too, the head of the German School, Dr Delbrucke. He is extraordinarily able. We are going to spend a long morning together on Thursday in his library and discuss results. But our chief friends are the dear Wyndhams who are darlings both of them. Robert Hickens turned up at my lecture this afternoon - oh, I think the lecture went quite well and I had a very distinguished audience of professors. Dr Ashby, the head of the British School, spends his time in trotting round with us and we are generally accompanied by a yound Italian, Baron Blanc, whose subject is chiefly prehistoric objects. As for the Rodos, they leave me quite cold. They are very kind and nice and yet I can't feel to want to see more of them and I don't know why. We lunch with the Teanos tomorrow and dine with the Filippis - the latter engagement is not very exciting. Teano has plunged into modern politics, which I gather he does very ill - it's an immense pity that he should leave what he does so well and I fear the great book will suffer. He came to my lecture and spoke after it. So did the Ambassador. You shee no Ambassadors come when I lecture in London. Well, it's all being quite as amusing as we meant it to be. Father is very well and I don't think he has been too much run off his feet. Ever your affectionate daughter Gertrude Rome Sunday (March 1910) Dearest Mother, I have begun life as a student (if you do not recall me) and have been working all day long at a palace, partly at the German Institute and partly in the Palatine. It has been delightful beyond words. I varied the entertainment by paying a short visit to Beni (by special invitation) at his unopened museum in the Forum. Dear Beni! his eyes are bluer and more melting than ever! He was the one alleviation at a very dull dinner at Countess Lovatelli's last night and I met him also at lunch yesterday at the Rivoiras. That party was amusing; it consisted of Beni, Delbruch and me and as Beni talks all the time Rivoira could not, which was an advantage. I walked back with Delbruch to the Institute afterwards and spent the rest of the afternoon reading there. D. is infinitely kind and helpful. Then I went to a most amusing tea party at the Grand Hotel with Mr Hickens. The party was Mr Hubbard, Mr Novara, Miss Maude White and a body from the Embassy. We laughed and laughed - at nothing in particular, but I had been so serious all day that I felt inclined to laugh at nothing; and then we went up to the Whitakers' rooms and Miss M. W. played and it was all very entertaining. I hope you don't mind my staying and, if you don't, will you please ask Sybil to bring me out a few clothes? I send the details to Marie. I have nothing but winter things and before 3 weeks are over it will be warm here. It was really baking hot today on the Palatine. I have not yet got His Ex's rooms. It's an awful business because the people will not promise them for so far ahead. I fear the Beau site will not do on that account. But I will see to it that he has rooms. I am going again to the Beau Site tomorrow and if they refuse to be definite, I shall go to the Regina. I'll send the list of clothes straight to Marie Your affectionate daughter Gertrude NB You have not written to me once since I left. Tuesday (March 15, 1910 Rome) Dearest Mtoehr, You were really very kind not to mind me staying in Rome! I felt when I got your letter about the dinner party that I ought to come home at once and I shall think of you tomorrow evening and wish you were here. Meantime my regrets are tempered by having learnt so much I have been working like a slave and have go to the bottom of Diocletian's baths this last day or two. This morning I am going to turn my attention to the Pantheon. I have also been working at ornament and find to my joy that the moment one begins to look at it with care, a regular sequence is apparent and the things that all seemed an immense muddle fall into a quite comprehensible history. All this has left me little time for anything else. I went to a party at the Filippis' on Friday, very amusing. I met there Sir Foster Cunliffe, your friend, whom I like and would see more of if I had time. On Saturday I worked mostly on Museums and at the Institute. In the late afternoon Delbruch and I went to a lecture of Rivoira's which was extremely instructive. On Sunday I entertained Maud White and Mr Hubbard to lunch on the Arentine and afterwards spent the afternoon in the Forum with Mr Hubbard. There I was so idiotic as to leave my notebook - a great misfortune. I fear it will never turn up though Beni is in a fearful state of mind about it. I went in to see him on Monday morning about it and the dear old thing put the following advertisement in the Tribune! I need not say I had nothing to do with the wording of it. He also sent me an immense branch of flowering bay to console me. Yesterday I was busy with Diocletian and with ornament. The camera has come - thank you a thousand times - but I can't get it out of the post office without the help of the Embassy such is Italy! Mr Wyndham is to get it for me today. Lady Mackenzie (wife of Sir George and a friend of Eugenie's) has arrived here - a nice woman. Also Louise Duchess, to Eugenie's mingled delight and despair - but not at the pension! A charming man has been in Rome, M. Naville, the Egyptian excavator. We have seen a great deal of him and I love him dearly. He is coming to see us in London. I am turning over in my mind whether when I leave here (probably on the 26th) I will not go to Spalato and Ravenna for the day, but I will let you know this. Now for Hadrian. Ever your affectionate daughter Gertrude Tuesday Rome (March 1910) Dearest Mother, My plans are now settled. I leave here on Monday and go for a night to Spoleto. On Tuesday I go to Ancona and cross that night to Spalato where I stay till Sunday. On Sunday I come back to Ancona (via Fiume because the boat goes that way) and so up to Ravenna where I stay for a week at the Grand Hotel Byron. You can't, I think, write to me to Spalato, because probably letters won't catch me, so after Friday will you write to Ravenna. I have been working in the Lateran all the morning and now I'm going to motor to Tivoli with Mme de Filippi, Dr Haseloff and Mr Richmond. I have invited Sybil to come too and am just going to pick her up. I have written to Marie. I expect to be in London about the 15th and have told her to wait for me there. I'm not going to stop in Paris. It's lovely weather again. Your affectionate daughter Gertrude Rome Friday 18 (March 1910) Dearest Father, I came in late yesterday from Tivoli and rushed to my Times to see the account of your dinner. Your speech was very badly reported and I rather hope I may get a fuller report of it from you, but it seems to have been a very important and interesting occasion. You were a person, weren't you! I do congratulate you on the success of it and I very much wish that I had been ther to see and hear. I thought of you on Wednesday night too when I was dining with the Filippis. Mine was a very pleasant dinner party too. It had been arranged so that I might meet Monseigneur Duchesne, the head of the French School, an old acquaintance but it so happened that we had not met this time. I sat by him and we had a charming talk about the Fathers of the church. He is writing a great ecclesiastical history and he told me many things that were most interesting about the early story of my sects and churches in Mesopotamia and Asia Minor. I, on the other hand, told him what the place looked like in which St Gregory of Nazianzos had lived. So we enjoyed ourselves very much and Sir Foster Cunliffe was there; I dine with him tonight. My camera has not yet come - I do hope it will arrive before I go to Spalato where I shall need it very much. Meantime I have borrowed Eugenie's and I spent Wed. morning in photographing architectural ornament in various parts of the town. Lady MacKenzie came with me and was very nice. In the afternoon I worked at the same job in the Forum, delightfully peaceful it was. I would like to spend all my time working in the Forum. Then Eugenie and I had a young and learned German to tea - learned, but strangely attired, for he had put on in our honour an evening shirt and waistcoat, black trousers and a black smoking coat. Yesterday I went with Miss van Deman to Tivoli and worked all day at Hadrian's Villa which I understand at last. Did I tell you that on Tuesday E and I went to hear a lecture of Beni's? The king was there and all Rome and it was extremely good. I was deligthed to see my dear Beni having such a real and well deserved success. Now I am going to a lecture of Haseloff's on the Medieval Forum - I can't think what he is going to say, except that there was nothing to be seen in the Forum in the Middle Ages, which won't after all take him an hour. If you could guess what a lot I've learnt this last fortnight you would be surprised. The thing that really gives me the greatest - almost childish - pleasure is having got hold of ornament. I just look at a thing and know who made it - more or less! Your affectionate daughter Gertrude Rome Monday (24 March 1910) Dearest Mother, I was so much surprised at getting no letters from you that I went to the Bristol and behold a .....! I will get the book for Father. Eugenie and I are much excited about the play and wish we were going to see it. E.'s comments on your talents and Father's charm reach to ecstacy. I've been at work all day, mostly at the German Institute, with an interval of lunching with the dear Pasolinis. Tomorrow I have a day's work out of doors which is nicer. I've got hold of one of the palaces anyhow, so that's something. Presently I shall try a bath. But I am plunging into the history of architectural decoration - an immense subject but most fascinating. Fortunately dear Delbruch is extremely helpful and kind. I've been such an idiot as not to bring a camera and I am so dreadfully hung up without one that I fear you must send it to me. You will find a small camera and several rolls of films (in the cases) in the cupboard below the bookshelf in my sitting room at 95. Could all this be posted to me? or must I wait till Sybil comes? She would bring it but I really would like to have it before. Ever your affectionate daughter Gertrude Rome Tuesday (March 1910) Dearest Mother, I had forgotten, till I got your letter this morning, all about the dinner party - I am so very sorry. I have telegraphed to yu that I will come home if you like - I think I can do no less - so you must decide. Meantime I shall go on with my palaces. I've really got hold of the buildings on the Palatine and now I am going to begin on the Baths of Caracalla, which will be thrilling. If you don't tell me to come back I shall next take Hadrian's Villa and then the Baths of Diocletian. It's more exciting than words can say. I had a great morning with Miss van Deman on the Palatine today. Then I lunched with Mr Richmond and Baron Blanc at a charming restaurant on the Arenturi where Father and I lunched with the Wyndhams. Then Mme de Filippi took Miss van D. and me to the Pretorian camp to look at brick work, and then to Trajan's Baths, which are I think too much ruined to be much good to me. I went to tea with the Millers - he is correspondent of the Morning Post - and a clever man. Tomorrow Mr Ashby and I are going with Mme de Filippi with the Campagna to see villas. It's heavenly weather. Your affectionate and repentant daughter Gertrude. It's being a revelation all this - I now shall talk less nonsense in future. Tuesday night Grand Hotel Roma Pace Ancona (29 March 1910) Dearest Mother, I think I must post you a letter from here before I embark, as the posts from Spalato may possibly take a long time. I had a most enjoyable two days at Spoleto and Delbruch did me another good turn in sending me there. For there is the most wonderful mysterious church that I ever set eyes on. I could scarcely believe that it was really like that when I first saw it - which was early on Monday morning - and just as I was photographing it and trying to persuade myself I was not in Asia, in walked Haseloff who had turned up at Spoleto during the night with a party of Germans whom he usually spoke of as "my lady friends" (one was a man however). I did not see much of the others - they seemed dullish - but I was very glad to see the good Haseloff and we fetched out some chairs and sat down in front of the west facade and discussed it eagerly for some 2 hours. It was an absolutely ........ day, the very soul of Spring, and after I had flown off to do a little .... sight seeing in the town, Haseloff and I took a train and went a quarter of an hour away to a tiny church at the source of the Clitumnus, a church unlike any other in the world. It is planned exactly like a little pagan temple and covered with wonderful decoration of the same kind as that which we were looking at in Spoleto, decoration that has pure Persian motives in it and would be absolutely incomprehensible if we did not know that about 500 AD a Syrian monk came to Spoleto and founded several religious houses. I expect that is the explanation of it all. Haseloff's lady friends joined him there, and I left them together and came back by tram to Spoleto and then took a carriage and drove to some churches outside the town and so home to dinner and to bed. This moring I got up very early and had the most enchanting solitary walk - fortunately my habits do not fall in well with those of German archaeologists, nor yet of their lady friends. I climbed a hill outside the town, walking through brushwood full of primroses, hepatias, anemones and violets, and at the top there was a ruined church, very lonely and beautiful - I felt again as if I must be back in the East and half wondered why Jusef was not there to carry my camera and Fattuh to hold my measuring tape. The morning mists hung round the foot of the hills and below me lay the little town with its high citadel and primeval towers all sun caught and golden and its valleys green with young corn in which the yellow narcissus stand thicker than the corn shoots. I spent the rest of the morning in revisiting all I had seen before and last of all I called on a delightful old Italian, Signor Sordini, who is the great authority on the antiquities of the place. I wish I had summoned up courage to present myself earlier for he welcomed me with open arms and said he wul have taken me everywhere himself if he had known I was there. I must tell you, I was quite unknown to him till I sent up my card. So we sat and talked of East and West with the completest accord I made great friends - all in Italian, mind you. I talk it disgracefully badly however and I know I constantly call people Thou in my anxiety to call them It. I left Spoleto very regretfully at 3 o'clock and travelled to Ancona where I arrived at 7. And I don't like it. At least the hotel, where I have just dined, is pretentious and bad and there is just as great a crowd here as there was when Trajan embarked for the Ducian wars - vide his column. However I've got my berth and my boat starts at midnight. I shall now return to it and go to bed. I feel to have lived a long time today, but all well. I arrive at Spalato at 1.30 PM tomorrow. Ever your affectionate daughter Gertrude Rome Thursday (March 1910) Dearest Mother, It is most kind of you to agree to my staying here and I want to tell you that I feel an awful beast about the dinner party. But at the same time I do think that another fortnight here will be of immense value to me. When I came to think things over, I considered that it would be an awful bore to go away for two months in the autumn and it is also possible that Delbruch and Eugenie might not be here in October and they both of them make an immense difference to the profitableness of being here - specially Delbruch who gives me from time to time just the lead I want. Even in this last week I have begun to get hold of things. Today I worked at architectural decoration all the morning, partly out of doors and partly in the German Institute where I went in to read for an hour before lunch. In the afternoon I joined Miss van Deman at the Baths of CAracalla and worked at them all the afternoon. They are very difficult, and I have not got them quite straightened out yet, so I shall have another day at them tomorrow. I can't tell you what a delightful sensation it is to begin to understand these things. I feel so excited about them that I can scarcely bring myself to come in for lunch! I came back at 5 for Eugenie's lecture, a very good one and very helpful to me. Yesterday I had a day off, for I had promised to go with Dr Ashby to see villas. Mme de Filippi took us in her motor, together with Miss van Deman, Mr Richmond and Mr Newton. It really wasn't much good as regards my job but it was heavenly as an outing. We went up into the Albane Hills and saw some villas near Frascati. Then we crossed over to the Sabines and having lunched at the Frascati villa, we had tea at the great Ponte Lupo, a splendid acqueduct that strides across a valley in the Sabine Hills. It was all more incredibly beautiful than words can say, the ground covered with violets and anemones and periwinkles. We did not get in till 7. Mme de Filippi is really most kind and her motor is delightful. Thank you so much for posting my camera. I do so very much want a shady hat and it's rather tiresome to begin buying things here, so if possible I wish Marie would put in my old green straw hat with mauve and green silk flowers with the other things that Sybil will perhaps kindly bring me. Marie will know the one I mean - the one that got wet and had to be restiffened. It won't matter much if it does come to grief and it is very old. I should also be much obliged if she would send me 2 and a half yards of each of the enclosed veils. I can't get any sensible veils here. Now that is all I want! Ever your affectionate daughter Gertrude Wednesday Rome (March 1910) Dearest Mother, When my literary remains come to be published the letters from Rome will not occupy an important place. I have not a minute to write but I must sieze spaces, between archaeologists, to tell you what I am doing. I got Father's telegram about Margaret, but she did not come to breakfast so I sent her a note to the Via Giulia to try and arrange a meeting. She left however at 10 and we did not see one another, for which I was very sorry. I spent the whole of Monday in Campagna, Mme de Filippi, kind soul, took us out in the motor and provided an excellent lunch. The party was Dr Ashby, Miss van Deman, Mr Newton and two other architects from the School. It was heavenly. We looked at wonderful ruined villas all day long and I began to realize what I did not know about Rome. This impression was strengthened next day, as you shall hear. I got home at 6 and went to the school where I found Lowy and another learned German having tea. They stayed till 7.30, after which E and I came back here to dine by ourselves. Yesterday morning I spent 3 hours with Delbruch who gave me the most wonderful disquistion I have ever heard on the history of architecture. It was a regular lecture he had prepared all his notes and all his books to illustrate what he was saying. He is a very remarkable man and as he talked I got the hang of things that had always remained mysteries to me. He ended by saying that it was absurd that I should be so ignorant of the Roman monuments and by telling me that I ought to come here for 6 weeks to study. He is perfectly right I am contemplating quite seriously whether I will not come here in Oct and Nov and study. I would like to do it before I go back to the East. It's a bore, but after all 2 months is a short time in one's life and if it would give me a real hold of Roman problems, it would be infinitely well spent - we'll talk of this when I come home. I lunched with the Blancs, E was also there and Mr Richmond. Baron Blanc, Mr R and I went afterwards tot he enchanting Villa of Papa Giulio where we spent a delicious hour and then Mr R and I walked about the Tiber till 5 when I went to see Dr Haseloff, head of the Prussian Institute. He showed me plans and photographs till 7 and then came a moment when I wished that there were fewer learned men in Rome and more tea - for he gave me none, dear old thing. so I flew home to dress and dined with Dr Ashby to meet Sabatier, the Filippis and some English people. After which we all went to a party at the Pasolinis and so to bed. Ever your affectionate daughter Gertrude I'm just off to see ruins with Delbruck! Wednesday On the boat. (April 6, 1910) Dearest Mother, After I wrote to you last night, I went on board and at once to bed. The boat is the veriest cockle shell, but fortunately the weather has been perfection and the sea like glass. When I went on deck at 9 o'clock, the snowy hills of Dalmatia were in sight and we are now entering the mouth of the Spalato bay, between bare rocky slopes and rocky islands - a different world from that which I left last night. There is only one other passenger; he and the Captain and I have just lunched together. The first part of the conversation was carried on in English by the Captain, because, as he explained, he had so few opportunites of talking the language. I don't think he can have had many, but I'm glad he embraced this one. He advised me to seek for antiquities near Pesaro, his native town. There are, it seems, remarkable ruins there, "You tak a carriage" said the captain "Your run two years." G.L.B. !!! He. "Ow you say ? two hhours." G.L.B. "Ah yes, two hours." The talk then turned on the American nation. "They are not kind" said the Captain "the Ladies, they are not kind" (I do not think, however, that he intended the epithet to be taken in a 17th century sense.) "The English, they are more hopen: the character is hopen." To my lasting regret the rest of the conversation was conducted in Italian. Friday Spalato. The first thing that happened here was that I definitely and forever lost my heart to teh Director of Antiquities. He is the most charming old man imaginable and his name is Monsignor Bulic (prononce Bertrand). As soon as I had washed and changed - I arrived at 1 o'clock - I went off to see him. Delbruch had written to say I was coming. I walked through the palace of Diocletian - oh, I suppose you know all about this place? The greater part of the town is built inside the great palace which Diocletian made for himself after his abdication. He was a native of Salona, hard by, and he came back so to speak to his native place to spend the 12 years that remained to him of life after he ceased ruling over the world. He was still alive when Constantine reversed the policy of his whole reign by embracing Christianity. He died here, and was buried in the great mausoleum which is now the Duomo of Spalato. Two hundred years after his death the Christian population of Salona, driven out of their town by the invading 'Arars, took refuge in the emperor's great walled palace by the sea, built their houses in his courts, scattered his ashes and dedicated his tomb tot he faith he had done his utmost to stamp out. There never was such a story in this world. Well, I walked through Diocletian's palace and came to the house of Monsignor Bulic, but Monsignor was reposing himself and would I go down into the museum just below? I would, and there presently joined me a charming envoy from Bulic, a priest, name unknown, who took me through all the museums (there are 4) and so back to the library where Bulic joined us. Bulic speaks German with me, but occasionally relapses into Croatian, when I have to pull him up. He never stops talking, bless him, and he loaded me with boods and invited me to join him in an expedition next day to Sebenico where he was going with some other Herren. so I agreead and wandered home through the palace. If it were not actually there you would not believe it could ever have been built, you take me? Suddenly the East steps in, bends the architraves into arches, sets new and fantastic decorations on every cornice, brings even the plan of a Syrian camp on which to build the house of a king. And then the whole little town is so delicious. At every turn enchanting Venetian court yards open out of the narrow streets, an exquisite 14th century doorway is crushed in between ancient masonry and finally you pass out under the stern vaulted gateway of the palace into a tiny square in which my hotel faces lovely Venetian balconies and carved windows. It is a dream of beauty so next day I got up at 6, for our train left at 7. And when I reached the station I found that the other Herren were an archaeological commission going with Bulic to inspect Sebenico. I am quite vague as to their names, except that one was Professor Dvorjak, Strzygowski's colleague in Vienna and chief foe. I feel in hate with him at once - not on that account. He is young, fat and oily. I think him detestable. Fortunately he and most of the other Herren went to sleep all the journey - it lasted 3 hours - and Bulic told me a delightful series of stories about his excavations, dear old thing. We travelled through rocky hills and came down to the sea again at Sebenico. When we got ther it was raining hard. We were met by an Italian professor to whom Bulic confided me. He was rather an old bore, but he loved me more than words can say and luckily he knew the wonderful cathedral by heart, so I spent a very profitable two hours looking at it. Then we all lunched at the hotel for an hour or more; the Herren were very German and I somehow felt as if I could not bear it any longer so I told dear Bulic I should go home by boat at 3 o'clock and leave then to come hom by train at 6. I escaped from the Italian professor with difficulty and had a charming hour's walk by myself in the pouring rain, up and down the wonderful little streets of Sebenico which are full of Venetian churches and palaces. The rest of the tale is not so happy. The boat was an hour and a half late in starting and moreover I embarked on what was anyhow a 6 hours' journey, wet and cold. It rained and blew the whole way, the sea was very rough; I did not enjoy it at all, and when I got home at 10.30 I felt very much battered. Still I'm glad I went - now. Today was more peaceful and more profitable. I spent the whole morning working in two of the museums - Bulic had given me every sort of catalogue, published and unpublished. At lunch I made the acquaintance of several more Professors. One was Niemann, whose works on Asia Minor I know well; he is a sort of littel gnome but very polite. He has with him a yet more gnome like daughter, unspeakably clad. Another was a perfectly charming man, really civilized which so few professors are. I don't know his name, but I gather he is at the top of everything at Vienna. After lunch I walked through the other museums and through a good deal of the palace and then I went and read in the library till dinner time. You won't be surprised to learn that I mean to try and see Zara, Pola and Parenzo on my way to Ravenna. A day apiece I think will do for them and one goes everywhere by sea with perfect ease - though not always with comfort. This is being a very successful journey and I am enjoying it immensely. Your affectionate daughter Gertrude Ravenna Friday (8 April 1910) Words can't say how much I am enjoying Ravenna! My dearest Father and Mother, You both write me such delightful leltters that I don't know which of you to answer. I must say I was glad when I got here yesterday afternoon and found a big post and papers waiting for me. Also I had had a wild journey. This was how it was. On Wed. morning I got up very early and saw Pola. There was not nearly so much to be done there as I expected and I left by train at 11 meaning to make a connection with a post motor and go to Parenzo. In the strictest sense the post motor met the train, that is it waited till the train got into the station, but no longer, and when I got outside the station (as quickly as possible) the motor was already motoring away beyond recall! Empty! I can't think it drives a profitable trade. So then I was landed at a wayside station for 3 hours in pouring rain. so I went to a little inn and lunched and then I took out my boods and worked at Ravenna. Finally I got to Trieste at 7 and determined to go straight on with no further waste of time. Parenzo must be for another journey. I left at 8 and reached Udine at 11. There I waited till 4 AM. I went to a hotel and slept sound. I got to Mestre at 8 and waited till 10 - there is not much to do at Mestre except breakfast. Then thank goodness I got a quick train and came straight through to Ravenna arriving at 3. I washed and changed and at 4 I had presented Beni's letter of introductin to one Cipriani and was being shown all the plans and drawings of the recent excavations of Theoderic's palace. I got back to my hotel in time for dinner and went to bed directly after. Now R.... fait la pluie et le beau temps here so everybody is at my disposition and I am going to have every advantage. At 8 o'clock this morning I was in S. Vitale where I worked uninterruptedly till 12. Then I flew off to the Museum to meet Signor Professore Muratori and he gave me books and showed me the museum for an hour. He is a charming man - indeed they are all delightful. Then I came back to lunch with Dr Sobernheim who is a very well known Arabic epigraphist and a nephew of hte Moscheles. They - he and his wife - happen to be in this hotel and they have put off their departure till tomorrow in order to have a talk with me tonight! After lunch I went to S. Vitale to Cipriani's office to make the acquaintance of Signor Maioli, an architect in charge of excavations and .......... here. We are going together to St Apollinaire in Classe tomorrow afternoon. Then I went to the Orthodox Baptistry and worked there all the afternoon and here I am at 6 o'clock back in the hotel. Now this is the sort of life I am going to lead here so I don't think I shall have much time for writing. I shall be in London on the afternoon of the 15th and I notice with pleasure that Father will be there. I suggest we should both dine with Florence - or they with us. I think it very likely that I may accept Father's kind invitation and go to Paris and Berlin in May. I could see Saloman in Paris and in Berlin I want to see a Professor and a museum - I could do that in two days. As for London, no I don't expect I shall be there much. Certainly not till after Whitsuntide. I must fall back to the book and I think that can be written best at home. I really don't think it is worth while for Marie to come up to London to meet me. I hope to come to R'ton on the afternoon of hte 16th. You see I don't want to waste any more time than I can help - the book! Ever your affectionate daughter Gertrude Spalato Saturday (April 9, 1910) Beloved Mother, I don't think I have ever spent so funny a time as here. First of all the arrangements of the Dalmatian SS Company are enough to make anyone laugh. I dtermined to go this afternoon by sea to Trau and having carefully looked out my boat with the aid of the posta I sallied out at 1 o'clock to catch it. Keui Spur! That boat had ...... definitively taken off, but the S.S. Co. had not thought it part of their duty to mention the fact in their time tables. This is the second time I've tried to see Trau. The first was on the way back from Sebenico, when, owing the boat's being an hour and a half late it was night when I arrived there. So I must give it up, which is a pity for it has one of the finest cathedrals in all Dalmatia. I spent the morning exploring Spalato in the rain. In the middle of my walk I met the insect-like Niemann who took me to se a wonderful little 9th century chapel hollowed out of the thickness of Diocletian's main gate - for which I was very grateful. Then the rain stopped and I walked out of the town and visited the exquisite cloister of a Franciscan monastery. Wallflower and stock were blooming in it but otherwise there was no one there but me. It was very nice. When I found I could not go to Trau I got leave from Monsignor Bulic to go and read in the library, which is in his house, and there I spent the afternoon with all the Bulletins of the Dalmatian Archaeological Society for the last 20 years, well content. About 5 Bulic appeared and we went together to the Museum where we were happily engaged on tombstones when a messenger came hot foot to say that His Excellency the Minister for Commerce was there and would Monsignor come and show him round. Bulic insisted that I should come too and behold in the middle of Diocletian's palace there was His Excellency and Her Excellency and a little Miss Excellency, the Burgomaster, in everning dress, the Commandant, in uniform, and His Excellency's suite amphibiously attired - they had just landed off a yacht. It was by this time growing dark, but nothing daunted the beloved Monsignor embarked on a far larger archaeological voyage than any the Minister for Commerce had taken by sea. Fortunately in the very middle their Excellencies' cab drove up and they all bundled in and went away. Then Bulic and I returned to our tombstones by the light of a candle. No, I think I never saw so many Professoren und Viele before in one and the same place. The one I really like, besides Bulic, is Professor Reisch. He is the head of hte Archaeological Institute at Vienna. He and Monsignor and I are going to Salona tomorrow to see some extraordinarily interesting early Christian basilicas which Bulic has excavated. The town was destroyed early in the 7th century by the Avars, so they are all before that date. I fear their Excellencies will join us there, but as their chieef object is to see the cement manufacturing, I don't suppose they will trouble us long. In a modest way I've been rather successful in the museum, for I have identified a Coptic ivory and explained to Monsignor Bulic the significance of double columns, of which he had found two at Salona and had no idea that they represented direct Anatolian influence. Sunday. The expedition to Salona was very successful. The party consisted of Bulic, Reisch and me, the Niemann son, daughter, curious little gnomes, looking as if they had never come out into any light except that of the midnight oil. Salona was wonderful; the Landschaft is indescribably beautiful and at this moment every inch of ground is thick with flowers. The basilicas are as interesting as any I have ever seen, except some of my own. We did not have much of Monsignore, for their Excellencies arrived and spent an hour eating ham in the little house he has built among the basilicas. But it didn't matter much, for Prof Reisch and I got hold of the vice Director of the diggings (he is the nice Italian whom I saw on the first day, Dr Prevaldo) and besides I knew it all by heart alreaady for I had read in the library samm........ descriptions of the diggings. So we got back to Spalato at one and all lunched with Monsignor; besides the Salona party there was Herr Professor Niemann and Herr Professor Dvorjak, and Herr Oberbaurath Biedermann. We were very distinguished and we lunched till 3.30. After that I felt I must take measures to prevent death from overeating and I walked to the top of Monte Marjan. It's a little rocky, wooded hill which forms one of the horns of the Spalato bay. On its summit is a restaurant, I need hardly day, and as far as the restaurant there is a broad road. When I got there I saw that the hill went on a long way further, a rocky narrow path leading along its crest. So I went on. A few foolhardy olives and vines pushed up between the stones, and happier and more in place, the crevices of the rocks held golden alyssum and golden broom and the deeper orange of the wild wallflower. The path dipped a little under a cliff and then tehre was a tiny church, San Girolamo, with a rock cut tiny monastery above. An Italian boy sprang out of the ground and told me where to climb up to it, so we went up together and I felt for all the world as if I were back in Asia, only there there would have been a hermit in the cell. So I took leave of the Italian boy - he was a young student he told me, and went on along the crest of Monte Marjan to where it ends in the blue sea. It was absolutely solitary, rock and sea and the mountains of Dalmatia and purple anemones trembling in the soft south wind. I got back to my hotel after dark and dined with the company of professors. Monday. At last it is really fine and sunny. I made up my mind last night that I could not bear not to see Trau and the decision was encouraged by the fact that my original plan had been to leave Spalato at midnight and get to Zara at 4.30 AM, inopportune hours for arriving and departing. So I slept peacefully in my bed last night, and this morning left by boat at 10 o'clock together with Niemann and his daughter. We are now coasting along under the hilly shores in bright hot sun and anything more delicious it would be difficult to imagine. I am very glad I did not travel by night; it would have been a foolish act. Tuesday The whole day's voyage was perfectly delightful. We spent an hour at Trau which is a tiny little walled town built on an island, with Venetian lions over the gateways and an 11th century cathedral in the middle of all. The cathedral has the most beautiful west door in the world, and besides that a system of vaulting which it took over straight from Byzantium. Opposite to it stands a Loggia with 6th century and 3rd century capitals - I wonder what they were doing in Trau in the 3rd century? and finally behind all, and now used as a lumber room, a tiny domed basilica, which as all who have read my book know, is a type peculiar to the Levant coast, Hellenistic. So I was well rewarded for coming to Trau. Later in the day we had an hour and a half at Sebenico which I was glad to see again and in fine weather this time. I went to the Duomo and then climbed up to one of the 3 Venetian fortresses and sat there looking at the wonderful views of sea and islands - and eating oranges. We got to Zara at 9 PM and the whole journey was charming. There was on board an ex-officer of the Austrian navy, name unknown, with whom I made friends. He had been for 2 years commander of the stationnaire at Constantinople, so we talked of Turkey and Turks. Niemann too became quite human over Anatolian diggings and altogether it was very enjoyable. This morning when I woke at 7, I looked out of my window and saw a glorious sun shining over the sea and the islands, so I jumped up and ran out to see Zara. It too is on an island, walled, and with the usual lovely Venetian gates. It has a cathedral of the 13th c, a dream of beauty, and a round church, now used as a museum, of the 9th. The latter was wonderfully interesting, for besides the fact that it contains, as a museum, a beautiful series of 9th century decorative fragments, it belongs to a very remarkable family of churches the earliest forefathers of which are at Ravenna, Salonica and in Asia Minor. It is built too upon the ruins of some big Roman public building, I should guess of the late 1st or early 2nd century from the fragments of decoration which are built into the foundations of the church piers. I spent a couple of hours working at these things and nearly went and knowcked up the Director, but I had not much time and I though I had probably found out most of what there was to know and had better go and look at the other churches. They were all interesting but none earlier than the 13th. One had a lovely altar and another a most splendid silver reliquary and a third a 6th century crucifix, and what with one thing and another it was 12 when I got back to my hotel. So I lunched quickly and caught a boat at 1.15 to Pola. Again the voyage is being quite divine. I have no friends on this boat, but snowy Dalmatian mountains on one side and rocky islands on the other, a hot sun and a sea which is more like a beautiful glassy canal between island and island. I shall post this at Pola tonight - I arrive at 11 PM. Tomorrow my plan is to see Pola in the morning, then to take a boat (if there is one) and go to Pareczo where there is a cathedral of the 6th century that I can't miss, but nothing else, so I hope to get early next morning to Trieste. Ever your affectionate daughter Gertrude Monday Rome (April 1910) Dearest Mother, His Ex has arrived and a greater old dear than he is in Rome you cannot imagine. In the first place they are delighted with the rooms I have to hire for them so all is well. I went to lunch with them yesterday and found his Ex brimming over with enjoyment. He had been for a walk on the Pincio as soon as he had washed off the dust of travel and then he had met Bulow and they had fallen into one another's arms in a way, I feel sure, that they had never done during all the years they spent together in Berlin. After lunch he trotted off to the Embassy and Sybil and I went down to the Forum where he presently joined us, as pleased as Punch. Whenever he saw a temple that he knew he rejoiced over it - I'm bound to say he new most of them. "This I think, my dear Gertrude is the temple fo Castor and Pollux - ah, you see my memory is not so bad." He was all for walking up onto the Palatine so we went up, but unfortunately it began to rain and after seeking refuge for some time in Domitian's corridors, we at length gave it up and drove off to the Piazza di Spagna where we had tea. There I left them and they returned again to the Pincio, bless their hearts. I dined with them too. His Ex went off after dinner to play bridge at the Embassy with Louise Duchess of Devonshire and I left Sybil to go to bed and came home and talked to Eugenie till past 11. I had spent the morning at work. I began with the church of S.S. Cosmo and Damiano where I found a palm Sunday service going on and all the people carrying olive branches in procession. I slipped in behind the altar and spent half an hour studying the mosaics which are the most interesting in Rome. The priests and people came in and out changing their rather grimy robes, chatting and laughing, but they paid no attention to me and when High Mass began and I wanted to find my way out they showed me the best way to slip back again round the altar. Then I went to the Capitol Museums and worked at ornament, over which I grew so excited that I flew up to the Terme and went through all the ornament there with immense satisfaction. The weather has unfortunately changed and it rains a good deal. My came has come, thank you a thousand time. My present plan is to leave here on Sunday and go to Spoleto (where there is a wonderful church) for 2 nights and catch the boat to Spalato on Tuesday. I don't want to stay there more than 3 days if there is a boat back, but this seems doubtful. Your affectionate daughter Gertrude Bayerischer Hof (18 August 1910) Dearest Motehr, I had a very successful and comfortable journey, with the sole exception that the train was an hour and a quarter late in arriving, which meant that I did not reach my hotel till midnight. The first thing I did this morning was to inquire about rooms for Hugo and I found that they could not possibly take him and his party in on Monday. Therefore I must get rooms for him elsewhere and if you know where I can catch him with a letter before he arrives here please telegraph to me, and I will write or telegraph to him. Just as I was going out Mr Lorain appeared and we went together to the exhibition. There I sought out Professor Sarre, who is the chief moon in the whole matter, and introduced myself to (him). He was very amiable and we made an appointment for the afternoon. Mr Loraine came back to lunch with me after which I returned to the exhibition and spent the afternoon with Sarre and various other professors, known and unknown. I stayed till it closed at 6 o'clock and then left a card on the Pagets who had asked me to dine last night - only I hadn't arrived so I couldn't go, if you take me. Mr Loraine is staying with them; hence their solicitude. Then I came in to grapple with a letter from Heinemann who wanted me to reply by teleghram to the terms he offered me for my book and to agree to have it ready early in November. I have agreed, but I expect we shall have the devil's own hurry over it, and so I have written to him. The exhibition is wonderful. I am very glad that I am alone here so that I can really work at it. But it is bewilderingly large. I shall have a good grind at it tomorrow. It's heavenly hot here. Ever your very affectionate daughter Gertrude. Sunday Munich (22 August 1910) Dearest Motehr, I had a delightful day at the exhibition today. All the professors were taking a holiday so that I had the library to myself. I read a great big book all through - it was about carpets, but it had lots of other things in too, and I felt at the end that I had got a good way forrader. The exhibition is in the Ausstellungs-park - you know, near the huge statue of Germany. I lunch in a little open air restaurant near it, which saves time and is pleasanter than the hotel. It's broiling hot - I love it. Today before I came away I found in the park a place where a lot of orientals are sitting and carrying on their trades. So I sought out the Syrians - they are from Damascus - and had a long gossip with them. One was a Druze and he told me all the news of the Hauran. I was delighted and so were they for they never have anyone to speak to. I am going to lunch with the Pagets tomorrow and then I shall hang about till Hugo comes. I have used these evening when I have been alone to write an article on the Persian and Arab poets for Mr Richmond. I hopt it is all right. I think it is. And I am glad to have it off my mind. Ever your ver affectionate daughter Gertrude I'm writing to Father tonight Friday 95 Sloane Street (27 August 1910) Dearest Mother, I got back this afternoon, after a very crowded and stormy journey - the whole of the United States was on the boat. Paris was very nice. I had a delightful time with the good Reinach and most pleasant hours in Museums - some with him and some alone. My plans are now as follows: I see Heinemann tomorrow morning (he is very complimentary and has given me good terms) and then go the Geographical Soc. about my map. In the afternoon to Sir A. Lyall at Aldworth, but I shall come back on Sunday night, so that if I have finished my business here I can catch the first train north - and if not, I shall have the morning here. I am overwhelmed by the work that lies before me now - maps, illustrations, and even some writing. And it must not be scamped. I shall have to find some time even while we have people with us. The enclosed from M. Wyndham. I have told him we hope they will both come on their way south - and I do hope they will come with the Goodenoughs etc. Ever your affectionate daughter Gertrude Hotel Der Furstenhof Berlin Thursday (26 September 1910) Dearest Mother, Yesterday morning I saw all Herzfeld's photographs of Samarra - wonderfully interesting. And then I saw Andrae's things in the museum and after lunch I returned to the museum where there are heaps of marvellous things which I have not yet seen. Dr Moritz, who was once curator of the Cairo Library, dined with me and we had a long talk about Mesopotamian geography, of which he is now very full. I spent 4 hours this morning with Herzfeld, looking over and discussing plans and photographs, his and mine. Also I made the acquaintance of his family, nice people. Now I'm going to tea with Marie v. Bunsen. What with museums and professors my days are now quite full till I leave. It has been well worth while coming - it is always worth while to know what the other people are doing. Ever your affectionate daughter Gertrude. Rounton Grange October 2 (1910) Dearest Mother, Item: George is going to Alderley tomorrow and Perlius is writing to the butler about it. Now I must tell you that George Grey can't come till the 17th. Maurice wants to alter his shoot to the 19th so as to get him. If you approve will you also write to the Bainbridges and ask them to come and shoot from the 18th to the 20th - I know you have not called on her, but don't you think you might so word the letter as to make that not matter? Maurice is writing to Charlie Mitchell to ask him also to shoot and if he comes I will write and ask Miss M. to come with him. The really ........ thing is that the Filippis are now landed here alone on Sunday the 16th! I can't help it for Maurice was quite decided on not having his shoot later than the 15th and I can't now ask them to change again. Would it do you think be a good plan to ask the de Bunsens to come for that Sunday? She begged me to ask her again shen they came back from Ireland in Oct. Then we should not have the Filippis alone and we should have polished off the de Bunsens. And if the Filippis stay on Monday the 17th we shall have George Grey and possibly the Mitchells arriving that evening. I don't see how to make a better job of it than this and I hop you will think well of it. The only drawback is that I believ Father is away on Tuesday night, but I don't see how that is to be helped. Perhaps you would telegraph to me in the morning telling me if I am to write to the de Bunsens and whether you will write to Mrs Bainbridge. It's gorgeous weather today. Mrs B's addrress is Mrs E. Bainbridge. Market Place, Richmond; he is Colonel, and will you say a SMALL shoot for is is only rabbits and ducks, between ourselves. Your affectionate daughter Gertrude. Rome Saturday (1910) Dearest Mother, I really think if you don't mind, I shall stay on here a week or two longer and do some work. I'm just going out to dinner so I haven't time to explain, but you will realize from what I told you that these Roman things seem to me more and more important, and if I took 3 weeks now over them I should begin to see where I am. But if you want me to come back, send me a telegram and I will come. Your affectionate daughter Gertrude Tuesday Rounton Grange (?1910) Dearest Mother, Suppose we were anyhow to give Elsa's sitting room and the bedroom opposite mine to Florence's children. I know it is a bore their being so high up but it is only for a day or two. That would leave us 10 rooms; 2 for Elsa and Herbert, I hope. But I don't think it is a good plan to ask people to come on the 1st. I feel sure the girls would mostly drop out for that reason suppose we asked them to come on the 3rd, Monday, had our ball on Wed 5th, hunted on Thursday 6th and sent them away on the 7th. I hope Herbert might be able to manage this, but if he absolutely could not, I suggest that Elsa should stay on for another 2 days if she would or at least over the ball and we would fill up Herbert's place with Mr Darwin or someone in the district. At any rate we should have Herbert for the beginning of the party. I suggest asking Nan Lyttelton, Rachel, Venetia, for girls; Bill Phipps, Francis Henley, Mr H Otham (Elsa's man), George Lloyd, Oliver Stanley - who won't be able to come, I should think, in which case we ought to ask Horace I think. That makes the necessary 8. I don't think myself that Imogen would be so good as any of the 3 girls I suggest. She belongs to quite a different set of people and the young me who will all know the girls I have put down won't know her, nor will she be at all intimate with the other girls. I am not writing to Elsa as you will on her tomorrow and can talk over the suggestions with her. We certainly must not wait till Maurice comes back as that will be far too late. If Herbert can't stay for the ball, Horace might fill up his place which leaves us room for a more interesting man, assuming that Oliver can't come. Rachel is going to Russia but I gather she will be back by the 3rd of Jan. Ever your affectionate daughter Gertrude